From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 1 01:48:57 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 09:48:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> In the UK and IRL they often used tap water as well. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "You hardly see > that on cars that have been driving around in northern and middle Europe > bar Great Britain and Ireland." > > > What do they use? Beer? > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Oudesluys" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 7:23:36 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating > > Any mains tap water in the so called civilized world has impurities in > it e.g. some form of disinfectant, mainly some kind of chloride compound > I believe. Often fluoride is added as well and the water is made > "harder" for health reasons by the water authorities. Have a look in > your wifes steam iron, the coffee machine or the water boiler. > These sediments react with the iron, brass and aluminium present in your > engines and cooling systems and cause havoc in the long run. > We have a lot of USA imports (classics) over here from the sunny > states. Many rust free cars but practically all radiators are scrap as > they are silted up because of the use of plain tap water. You hardly see > that on cars that have been driving around in northern and middle Europe > bar Great Britain and Ireland. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 1 02:54:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 10:54:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Judder Continued In-Reply-To: <61F1D89FA9D0472AA00A3D168B4EC467@JohnSoderling> References: <61F1D89FA9D0472AA00A3D168B4EC467@JohnSoderling> Message-ID: <4C55365D.4050207@chello.nl> Soggy engine/transmission mounts is the most common problem with clutch judder. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Soderling wrote: > I have also had some annoying clutch judder when starting out in 2nd gear. I > assumed it was due to a little oil on the clutch plate since Erika doesn't > have a rear seal. With the transmission cover off for the slave cylinder > work, I also noticed that my rubber transmission mounts had pretty much > disintegrated and were the consistency of firm Jell-O. So I replaced them and > guess what. Presto, the clutch judder was gone! I guess the tranny and > clutch/engine shafts were slightly out of align due to the failed tranny > mounts. So if you have some clutch judder, check the condition of your > transmission mounts as one possible cause. > > The moral of the story is that loosing my clutch hydraulics was really a > blessing in disguise! > > Vrooom vrooom, > John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 04:24:55 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 12:24:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command In-Reply-To: <865376.72066.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <865376.72066.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I had all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before. cheers Derek On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 1:12 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > Nice feature on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: > > http://thechicaneblog.com/ > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 1 04:42:31 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 12:42:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> What is disregarded completely in this discussion that a lot of people run modified (much) more powerful than standard engines and have the standard radiator without extra cooling ca[pacity and/or a proper electric fan. Of course you would create overheating that way. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 06:00:11 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 05:00:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Solid_core_non-resistor_wires?= Message-ID: <4c5561bb.1b768e0a.7e52.1c95@mx.google.com> Rear seat pans on a four seater? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: Editorgary at aol.com Date: Sat, Jul 31, 2010 9:58 pm Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires To: In a message dated 7/31/10 6:51:06 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Use resistor > spark plugs to eliminate ignition noise in you car radio if needed and for > the > car next to you on the road. > Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around me? BTW, for those who still run tube tires, tractor supply places are often recommended as the place where you can find the proper tube to fit a 165x15 tire, since most car stores no longer stock tubes. Wonder what else is still available at tractor supply stores that would be good for our cars, and that can't be found at the typical aftermarket auto supply stores. Best Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 1 07:16:49 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 09:16:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] '63 Sebring In-Reply-To: <4C549E7B.3000003@justbrits.com> References: <8CCFD3F94D790D1-1F74-86D8@webmail-m098.sysops.aol.com><7C936FDA-853F-48C9-8CE2-7CD215F1F1A1@cox.net><60FE36DE-C048-46C6-A5A8-78945F13FDAA@cox.net><8CCFD921088DBDB-2974-3364@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com><4C52351B.4070000@justbrits.com><24070945.143541280560910490.JavaMail.www@wsfrf1111><8CCFF0C5E7684AF-1D60-D672@Webmail-d103.sysops.aol.com> <4C549E7B.3000003@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <8CCFF92EF2A6BEE-35F8-13F27@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> No, not in a tent & head on to camera. -----Original Message----- From: Shop at " Just Brits " To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: classic-sport-cars at sfr.fr Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2010 5:06 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] '63 Sebring << As I recall, it had 54FAC, 56FAC & 57FAC side by side facing the camera head on. >> And at a slight angle in some sort of 'tent', Gary ?? I recall seeing one also, but NOT where !! _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 07:25:07 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 06:25:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires Message-ID: <747132.54722.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> "Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around me?" We can only hope. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Aug 1 07:37:43 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 09:37:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires Message-ID: <20100801.063814.990.19076@mailpop04.dca.untd.com> Gary, Just as a matter of curiosity, who cares if you screw up cell phone reception of cars around you!! They shouldn't be talking while driving anyway. IMHO. And now for Ed's decoder ring response......... Doug > In a message dated 7/31/10 6:51:06 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > > writes: > > > > Use resistor > > spark plugs to eliminate ignition noise in you car radio if needed > and for > > the > > car next to you on the road. > > > > Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around > me? > > BTW, for those who still run tube tires, tractor supply places are > often > recommended as the place where you can find the proper tube to fit a > 165x15 > tire, since most car stores no longer stock tubes. Wonder what else > is still > available at tractor supply stores that would be good for our cars, > and that > can't be found at the typical aftermarket auto supply stores. > Best > Gary > _______________________________________________ > ____________________________________________________________ FIRE SALE: iPads for $23.74? SPECIAL REPORT: iPads are being auctioned for an incredible 85% off! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c5578f18b1924fe04cst05duc From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Aug 1 07:52:59 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 09:52:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Fuel Gauge Message-ID: <20100801.065349.1057.201226@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> I have an NOS X49422/219 fuel gauge, which is the original part number and correct 100 BN1 gauge (correct if I'm wrong Rich). It changed numbers to FG2530/19 for the BN2. Would like to trade for the correct BN2 gauge, either NOS or rebuilt to concours standards. You can reply off list. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ FIRE SALE: iPads for $23.74? SPECIAL REPORT: iPads are being auctioned for an incredible 85% off! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c557c8ddaf5e4fe4east05duc From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 07:54:59 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 06:54:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: <747132.54722.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <747132.54722.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: And everyone's AM radio and FM radio, not to mention the police radio in the highway patrolman's car. that could make for a very interesting conversation. Be careful of what you wish for, you just might get it. On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 6:25 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > "Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around me?" > > We can only hope. > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 1 08:38:32 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:38:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2056971172.831680.1280673512030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> None of the gendarmes who have stopped me to, uh, admire my Healey have complained about interference (I have solid copper wires). I use resistor plugs and the wire terminals have 15KOhm resistance built-in. My AM reception is good as long as I'm tuned to a station--I hear the fuel pump and every cylinder fire if I'm not--and haven't noticed any problem in my other cars when the Healey is running nearby. Are there any laws stipulating that suppression wires must be used? Or is it just good citizenship? At any rate, suppression wires will fail in the screw-in type distributor cap sooner or later, so it's solid copper or use a different cap. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA And everyone's AM radio and FM radio, not to mention the police radio in the highway patrolman's car. that could make for a very interesting conversation. Be careful of what you wish for, you just might get it. On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 6:25 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > "Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around me?" > > We can only hope. > > Greg > 65BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 1 08:49:14 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:49:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Antifreeze Water In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1479604088.831860.1280674154509.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Have heard similar. Anyone have an explanation besides, of course, the obvious (steam condensate is, by definition, distilled water--there's no way to run a control against condensed, mineralized water--which might corrode the pipe even faster if it could be done)? How is the condensate treated to prevent corrosion? At any rate, I wouldn't run distilled water--or tap water for that matter--without at least some antifreeze, water wetter-type stuff or soluble oil with a corrosion inhibitor. FWIW, I've run distilled water in my BJ8 for probably close to 20yrs. When I drain the system, the coolant is always clear except for a very small amount of sediment, which I believe comes from the heater core which has never been replaced or repaired. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I can vouch for the corrosive qualities of distilled water. Steam condensate, unless it is properly treated will destroy a condensate return system built of schedule 80 black pipe in a matter of years. One of the classic symptoms is grooving of the bottom run of the pipe where the condensed water actually runs down the slope of the pipe. Very impressive destruction. Bill Lawrence From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 1 09:02:34 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 10:02:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <152F2A6083004CB287B2A66020BD52E1@GregPC> " Wonder what else is still available at tractor supply stores that would be good for our cars, and that can't be found at the typical aftermarket auto supply stores. Best Gary" Although I have not had trouble finding it at other places (others on the list have asked where to find it though) tractor supply houses usually are good places to find 30w non-detergent motor oil, they are also usually well stocked with welding supplies. Greg Lemon Nebraska (where it is easier to find a tractor/farm supply store than a Pep Boys) _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sun Aug 1 09:32:20 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 01:32:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Oudesluys wrote: >What is disregarded completely in this discussion that a lot of people >run modified (much) more powerful than standard engines and have the >standard radiator without extra cooling ca[pacity and/or a proper >electric fan. Of course you would create overheating that way. >Kees Oudesluijs >NL > > > FWIW, I have a 197BHP at the back of the gearboxof my Healey 3000 with a standard radiator with sealing plates across the top and bottom of the core and side vertical panels with ONLY one half of the the standard fan ( one blade of the two) and no electric fan. During summer in Australia it has never boiled. Also has Webers and a tubular exhaust manifold. The only difference to most of the listed discussion todate is I have an alloy head. Some of the experts out there will no doubt be able to explain that the rate of heat transfer is most important in any heat exchange system and this happens between combustion chamber : head material : water to remove the heat and then again in reverse in the radiator matrix, water : copper : air. All of these items/materials affect the cooling system. Surface condition of cast iron has a BIG affect on the rate of transfer of heat from the combustion chamber. Iron oxide ( rust,scale) limits the transfer of heat into the water significantly. Also have a close look at exactly how far down the height of the block the actual water jacket around the bores does go. This area within the block/bores is notorious for becoming jam packed with crud ( technical term to describe all sorts of foreign matter) and this decreases the surface area of the hot bits from being exposed to a good water flow and therefore heat removal.. Same principal with a dirty radiator. Forgot, I also have triangular vents in the guards. From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 09:35:21 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command Message-ID: <939258.45368.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello All; That ad was in the April 1958 [page 2] issue of Sports Car Journal, the official magazine of the California Sports Car Club. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Sun, 8/1/10, Derek Job wrote: << Thanks for the link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I had all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before. >> On Sun, Aug 1, 2010, HealeyRick wrote: << Nice feature on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: http://thechicaneblog.com/ >> From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 1 09:52:20 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 17:52:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> You may have access to 197BHP but do you ever use the car in anger and exploit that power for prolonged periods? Kees Oudesluijs Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: > Oudesluys wrote: > >> What is disregarded completely in this discussion that a lot of >> people run modified (much) more powerful than standard engines and >> have the standard radiator without extra cooling ca[pacity and/or a >> proper electric fan. Of course you would create overheating that way. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> >> > > FWIW, I have a 197BHP at the back of the gearboxof my Healey 3000 > with a standard radiator with sealing plates across the top and bottom > of the core and side vertical panels with ONLY one half of the the > standard fan ( one blade of the two) and no electric fan. During > summer in Australia it has never boiled. Also has Webers and a tubular > exhaust manifold. The only difference to most of the listed > discussion todate is I have an alloy head. > > Some of the experts out there will no doubt be able to explain that > the rate of heat transfer is most important in any heat exchange > system and this happens between combustion chamber : head material : > water to remove the heat and then again in reverse in the radiator > matrix, water : copper : air. All of these items/materials affect > the cooling system. > > Surface condition of cast iron has a BIG affect on the rate of > transfer of heat from the combustion chamber. Iron oxide ( rust,scale) > limits the transfer of heat into the water significantly. > > Also have a close look at exactly how far down the height of the block > the actual water jacket around the bores does go. This area within > the block/bores is notorious for becoming jam packed with crud ( > technical term to describe all sorts of foreign matter) and this > decreases the surface area of the hot bits from being exposed to a > good water flow and therefore heat removal.. Same principal with a > dirty radiator. > > Forgot, I also have triangular vents in the guards. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3043 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/10 08:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Aug 1 10:47:36 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 12:47:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: <2056971172.831680.1280673512030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CCFFB06146DD6B-13CC-7BCF@webmail-m010.sysops.aol.com> I think automotive parts stores can't get solid wire sets made specifically for automotive use but can sell them for tractors and other farm equipment. As a work around we can use the tractor sets on our older cars that had them as original equipment and not break any rules. I'm sure the FCC has a hand in it some were along the way. I have noticed some interference on my '05 Le Sabre's radio on the AM band when next to some big rig when on a trip, but not all big rigs. They are diesel and don't have high tension ignition systems or spark plugs, so I'm not sure what causes it other than a faulty alternator on the big rig maybe. Some of them have APU's but I would think they are diesel too and wouldn't cause any interference. They usually use them when stationary anyway. I like the idea of possibly interfering with someones cell phone while they are dirving, they are driving a car not a phone booth. :-) Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Richard Ewald Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net; Greg Mandas gmandas at yahoo.com Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 10:38 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires None of the gendarmes who have stopped me to, uh, admire my Healey have omplained about interference (I have solid copper wires). I use resistor plugs and the wire terminals have 15KOhm resistance built-in. My M reception is good as long as I'm tuned to a station--I hear the fuel pump and very cylinder fire if I'm not--and haven't noticed any problem in my other cars hen the Healey is running nearby. Are there any laws stipulating that suppression wires must be used? Or is it ust good citizenship? At any rate, suppression wires will fail in the screw-in ype distributor cap sooner or later, so it's solid copper or use a different ap. s -------------------------------- ob Spidell - San Jose, CA And everyone's AM radio and FM radio, not to mention the police radio in the ighway patrolman's car. hat could make for a very interesting conversation. e careful of what you wish for, you just might get it. On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 6:25 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > "Wonder if that would screw up cell phone reception of cars around me?" We can only hope. Greg 65BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 10:50:38 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 09:50:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2010 Results Message-ID: <898734.91943.qm@web83916.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Results for all activities at Conclave 201 are now posted, see www.austinhealeyconclave.com click on the 201 logo in he upper left corner. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 11:13:08 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 10:13:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command In-Reply-To: <939258.45368.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <938134.39695.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Remember Commander Whitehead? He was the dapper Schweppes tonic water guy. Not quite sure why they were quoting him in a Healey ad, though. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 8/1/10, J. Scott Morris wrote: From: J. Scott Morris Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command To: "Austin Healey" Date: Sunday, August 1, 2010, 11:35 AM Hello All; That ad was in the April 1958 [page 2] issue of Sports Car Journal, the official magazine of the California Sports Car Club. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Sun, 8/1/10, Derek Job wrote: << Thanks for the link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I had all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before. >> On Sun, Aug 1, 2010, HealeyRick wrote: << Nice feature on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: http://thechicaneblog.com/ >> _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From robertlarson at att.net Sun Aug 1 11:34:56 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 13:34:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command In-Reply-To: <938134.39695.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <938134.39695.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C55B040.8040002@att.net> Maybe they were pushing to get their tonic water used use in all the overheating Healey's. Bob 55BN1 On 8/1/2010 1:13 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Remember Commander Whitehead? He was the dapper Schweppes tonic water guy. > Not quite sure why they were quoting him in a Healey ad, though. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sun, 8/1/10, J. Scott Morris wrote: > > From: J. Scott Morris > Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command > To: "Austin Healey" > Date: Sunday, August 1, 2010, 11:35 AM > > Hello All; That ad was in the April 1958 [page 2] issue of Sports Car > Journal, the official magazine of the California Sports Car Club. > --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada > J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives > On Sun, 8/1/10, Derek Job wrote:<< Thanks for the > link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I had > all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before.>> > On Sun, Aug 1, 2010, HealeyRick wrote:<< Nice feature > on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: http://thechicaneblog.com/>> From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Aug 1 12:04:19 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 10:04:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Cell_Phone_Reception_-_was_Solid_Core_Wi?= =?iso-8859-1?q?res?= Message-ID: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com> I've used my Verizon Droid phone in my Healey with solid core wires with no hint of static. I think that's one of the benefits of digital cell phones. FWIW - I'm using an Etymotic HF2 sound-isolation earbud headset and it seals well enough to be able to carry on a conversation over the roar of my Monza exhaust. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Aug 1 12:22:44 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 11:22:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Fuel Gauge In-Reply-To: <20100801.065349.1057.201226@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> References: <20100801.065349.1057.201226@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: Just checked my box of rebuilt instruments for my BN2 restoration and find I too have a BN1 fuel gauge. I guess I'm looking for the correct gauge too. Doug, let me know if you get more than one offer for your BN1 gauge. I have a rebuildable Bugeye combo gauge and fuel gauge to offer also, both in perfect shape for any of you guys adding a Bugeye to your stable. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 6:52 AM, wrote: > I have an NOS X49422/219 fuel gauge, which is the original part number > and correct 100 BN1 gauge (correct if I'm wrong Rich). It changed numbers > to FG2530/19 for the BN2. Would like to trade for the correct BN2 gauge, > either NOS or rebuilt to concours standards. You can reply off list. > Thanks. > > Doug > ____________________________________________________________ > FIRE SALE: iPads for $23.74? > SPECIAL REPORT: iPads are being auctioned for an incredible 85% off! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c557c8ddaf5e4fe4east05duc > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Aug 1 12:52:19 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 11:52:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cell Phone Reception - was Solid Core Wires In-Reply-To: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: Hey, I got Etymotoics for my iPod. Absolutely great sounding earbuds with terrific bass response, besides the noise canceling benefit. Just wish the local Highway Patrol would have a better attitude about using them when I drive my Bugeye. I'm sure they won't care for me using them when my BN2 is on the road either. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 11:04 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > I've used my Verizon Droid phone in my Healey with solid core wires with no > hint of static. I think that's one of the benefits of digital cell phones. > > FWIW - I'm using an Etymotic HF2 sound-isolation earbud headset and it > seals well enough to be able to carry on a conversation over the roar of my > Monza exhaust. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 From kentmclean at comcast.net Sun Aug 1 13:29:30 2010 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 15:29:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Women and headaches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C55CB1A.1030509@comcast.net> Jonas Payne wrote: > She enjoys short trips, club events and rallys but has no interest in using > one of the antiques as a daily driver or of taking a long trip in one. Consider driving the long trip yourself, and have her fly into the destination timed for when you get there. Pick her up at the airport. Enjoy the local activities. Drop her off at the airport and drive home (or let her stay another day or two locally while you drive home). -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 1 14:49:09 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 16:49:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 Fuel Gauge Message-ID: <1343C13A7A304B38B4421BCDF657834B@LIFEBOOK> Doug, and others who have responded to Doug's email.... Hang on to your NOS X49422/219 gauge. It is also for the BN2, and note that the FG2530/19 is simply a later replacement noted for the Stores personnel. Rich -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 9:52 AM > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Fuel Gauge > >> I have an NOS X49422/219 fuel gauge, which is the original part number >> and correct 100 BN1 gauge (correct if I'm wrong Rich). It changed numbers >> to FG2530/19 for the BN2. Would like to trade for the correct BN2 gauge, >> either NOS or rebuilt to concours standards. You can reply off list. >> Thanks. >> >> Doug From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Aug 1 14:55:54 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 13:55:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 100 Fuel Gauge In-Reply-To: <1343C13A7A304B38B4421BCDF657834B@LIFEBOOK> References: <1343C13A7A304B38B4421BCDF657834B@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Thanks Rich. A load off my mind. Believe me, I am spending my money as fast as I can on this restoration. Last minute changes to spares and equipment already sourced is not welcome. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 1:49 PM, Rich C wrote: > Doug, and others who have responded to Doug's email.... > > Hang on to your NOS X49422/219 gauge. It is also for the BN2, and note that > the > FG2530/19 is simply a later replacement noted for the Stores personnel. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > >> From: >> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 9:52 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Fuel Gauge >> >> I have an NOS X49422/219 fuel gauge, which is the original part number >>> and correct 100 BN1 gauge (correct if I'm wrong Rich). It changed numbers >>> to FG2530/19 for the BN2. Would like to trade for the correct BN2 gauge, >>> either NOS or rebuilt to concours standards. You can reply off list. >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Doug >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 16:45:11 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 08:45:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, Joe is talking about his ex works big Healey, the 1965 Sebring 3000 car as driven by Paul Hawkins. I'm glad Joe hasn't "Modified" it back to standard BJ8 specs. It is still in the original mechanical form it left the DHMC......... ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 02/08/2010, at 1:52 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > You may have access to 197BHP but do you ever use the car in anger and > exploit that power for prolonged periods? > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: >> Oudesluys wrote: >> >>> What is disregarded completely in this discussion that a lot of >>> people run modified (much) more powerful than standard engines and >>> have the standard radiator without extra cooling ca[pacity and/or a >>> proper electric fan. Of course you would create overheating that >>> way. >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> NL >>> >>> >> >> FWIW, I have a 197BHP at the back of the gearboxof my Healey 3000 >> with a standard radiator with sealing plates across the top and >> bottom >> of the core and side vertical panels with ONLY one half of the the >> standard fan ( one blade of the two) and no electric fan. During >> summer in Australia it has never boiled. Also has Webers and a >> tubular >> exhaust manifold. The only difference to most of the listed >> discussion todate is I have an alloy head. >> >> Some of the experts out there will no doubt be able to explain that >> the rate of heat transfer is most important in any heat exchange >> system and this happens between combustion chamber : head material : >> water to remove the heat and then again in reverse in the radiator >> matrix, water : copper : air. All of these items/materials affect >> the cooling system. >> >> Surface condition of cast iron has a BIG affect on the rate of >> transfer of heat from the combustion chamber. Iron oxide >> ( rust,scale) >> limits the transfer of heat into the water significantly. >> >> Also have a close look at exactly how far down the height of the >> block >> the actual water jacket around the bores does go. This area within >> the block/bores is notorious for becoming jam packed with crud ( >> technical term to describe all sorts of foreign matter) and this >> decreases the surface area of the hot bits from being exposed to a >> good water flow and therefore heat removal.. Same principal with a >> dirty radiator. From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Sun Aug 1 17:15:59 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 09:15:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF337D20@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Kees Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring in 1965 and then at various other picturesque circuitous locations in the UK, US and Australia over the 45 years since. I would say that of all the cars belonging to members of this list, Joe's car would have had more time in anger and the exploiting its power than anyone else's. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia Ps It always pays to know your Healey History before you make a comment. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Monday, 2 August 2010 1:52 AM To: Joe and Lenore Armour Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating You may have access to 197BHP but do you ever use the car in anger and exploit that power for prolonged periods? Kees Oudesluijs Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jpayne at ThorCon.net Sun Aug 1 17:29:32 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 16:29:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Women and headaches In-Reply-To: <4C55CB1A.1030509@comcast.net> References: <4C55CB1A.1030509@comcast.net> Message-ID: Easier said than done - my 3 kids under 10 don't want to be left out, and that's some hefty airfare!!!! A long trip for me at this point in my life is 2-3 hours!! Jonas Payne PBR > She enjoys short trips, club events and rallys but has no interest in using > one of the antiques as a daily driver or of taking a long trip in one. Consider driving the long trip yourself, and have her fly into the destination timed for when you get there. Pick her up at the airport. Enjoy the local activities. Drop her off at the airport and drive home (or let her stay another day or two locally while you drive home). -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 1 19:24:38 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:24:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye in movie Message-ID: My 13 year old daughter Healey pointed out that there is a BRG, right hand drive, early Bugeye in a preview she saw for the movie "Wild Child". Out on DVD. And yes her name is Healey. Check out FaceBook, there are four girls with the first name Healey on there. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Aug 1 19:27:17 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 01:27:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?noise_supression?= Message-ID: <20100802012717.7504.qmail@server278.com> i have an old sears positive ground radio in the bj8 and lately i have noticed a lot of static. tried a new ariel. no luck. have copper center wires and resistor plugs. when engine is shut off the fm is really ok, but am still wonky. underway, the am is really staticy unless it is a really strong station. i also tried different speakers with no luck. i have given up listening to it and just wear earphones with am/fm. works better anyway. hjim From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 1 19:34:26 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 18:34:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF337D20@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF337D20@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <4C5620A2.4010701@comcast.net> re: "Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring ..." Has it been tested on Hwy 405 in Los Angeles on a Friday at 'rush' hour in August? bs Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day Kees > > Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring in 1965 and then > at various other picturesque circuitous locations in the UK, US and Australia > over the 45 years since. > > I would say that of all the cars belonging to members of this list, Joe's car > would have had more time in anger and the exploiting its power than anyone > else's. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > Ps It always pays to know your Healey History before you make a comment. > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 20:04:48 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 19:04:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C5620A2.4010701@comcast.net> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF337D20@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> <4C5620A2.4010701@comcast.net> Message-ID: A much more difficult test to pass. ron rader 405 freeway, LA > > re: "Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring ..." > > Has it been tested on Hwy 405 in Los Angeles on a Friday at 'rush' hour in August? > > > bs > > > Quinn, Patrick wrote: >> >> G'day Kees >> >> Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring in 1965 and then >> at various other picturesque circuitous locations in the UK, US and Australia >> over the 45 years since. >> >> I would say that of all the cars belonging to members of this list, Joe's car >> would have had more time in anger and the exploiting its power than anyone >> else's. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> Ps It always pays to know your Healey History before you make a comment. >> > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 20:14:20 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 19:14:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?overheating?= Message-ID: <4c5629ed.013f970a.4c47.ffffabc8@mx.google.com> Or the Grape Vine I5 north of Los Angeles in August Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "F Ronald Rader" Date: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 7:04 pm Subject: [Healeys] overheating To: "Healey List" A much more difficult test to pass. ron rader 405 freeway, LA > > re: "Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring ..." > > Has it been tested on Hwy 405 in Los Angeles on a Friday at 'rush' hour in August? > > > bs > > > Quinn, Patrick wrote: >> >> G'day Kees >> >> Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours at Sebring in 1965 and then >> at various other picturesque circuitous locations in the UK, US and Australia >> over the 45 years since. >> >> I would say that of all the cars belonging to members of this list, Joe's car >> would have had more time in anger and the exploiting its power than anyone >> else's. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> Ps It always pays to know your Healey History before you make a comment. >> > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 20:16:47 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 19:16:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?noise_supression?= Message-ID: <4c562a81.03a8960a.617e.ffffafdd@mx.google.com> Just listen to exhaust music. I pulled my radio out 25 years ago. I never get a song I do not like;) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "healeymanjim" Date: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 6:27 pm Subject: [Healeys] noise supression To: "healeys at autox.team.net" i have an old sears positive ground radio in the bj8 and lately i have noticed a lot of static. tried a new ariel. no luck. have copper center wires and resistor plugs. when engine is shut off the fm is really ok, but am still wonky. underway, the am is really staticy unless it is a really strong station. i also tried different speakers with no luck. i have given up listening to it and just wear earphones with am/fm. works better anyway. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Aug 1 20:21:09 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 19:21:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> Message-ID: <91B13586-3B9D-4CA8-A328-D11F656C777D@cox.net> yeah, but that car only got 17th place. oh... first in the 3 Liter GT class. That's staying "cool" Wilko On Aug 1, 2010, at 3:45 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Kees, > Joe is talking about his ex works big Healey, the 1965 Sebring 3000 > car as driven by Paul Hawkins. > I'm glad Joe hasn't "Modified" it back to standard BJ8 specs. It is > still in the original mechanical form it left the DHMC......... > ;-) > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 02/08/2010, at 1:52 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> You may have access to 197BHP but do you ever use the car in anger >> and >> exploit that power for prolonged periods? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: >>> Oudesluys wrote: >>> >>>> What is disregarded completely in this discussion that a lot of >>>> people run modified (much) more powerful than standard engines and >>>> have the standard radiator without extra cooling ca[pacity and/or a >>>> proper electric fan. Of course you would create overheating that >>>> way. >>>> Kees Oudesluijs >>>> NL >>>> >>>> >>> >>> FWIW, I have a 197BHP at the back of the gearboxof my Healey 3000 >>> with a standard radiator with sealing plates across the top and >>> bottom >>> of the core and side vertical panels with ONLY one half of the the >>> standard fan ( one blade of the two) and no electric fan. During >>> summer in Australia it has never boiled. Also has Webers and a >>> tubular >>> exhaust manifold. The only difference to most of the listed >>> discussion todate is I have an alloy head. >>> >>> Some of the experts out there will no doubt be able to explain that >>> the rate of heat transfer is most important in any heat exchange >>> system and this happens between combustion chamber : head material : >>> water to remove the heat and then again in reverse in the radiator >>> matrix, water : copper : air. All of these items/materials affect >>> the cooling system. >>> >>> Surface condition of cast iron has a BIG affect on the rate of >>> transfer of heat from the combustion chamber. Iron oxide >>> ( rust,scale) >>> limits the transfer of heat into the water significantly. >>> >>> Also have a close look at exactly how far down the height of the >>> block >>> the actual water jacket around the bores does go. This area within >>> the block/bores is notorious for becoming jam packed with crud ( >>> technical term to describe all sorts of foreign matter) and this >>> decreases the surface area of the hot bits from being exposed to a >>> good water flow and therefore heat removal.. Same principal with a >>> dirty radiator. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sun Aug 1 20:50:16 2010 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 12:50:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <91B13586-3B9D-4CA8-A328-D11F656C777D@cox.net> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> <91B13586-3B9D-4CA8-A328-D11F656C777D@cox.net> Message-ID: <4C563268.5040505@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > yeah, but that car only got 17th place. oh... first in the 3 Liter GT > class. > > That's staying "cool" > > Wilko ERIC It is important to consider who finished ahead AND who the Healey finished ahead of. Thre is some heavy iron that came after position 17. Also in the extreme rain downpour the BMC cars were setting fastest laps, with the LUCAS wipers and the LUCAS headlights and the LUCAS fog lights and all powered by the LUCAS generator with crappy old carbon brushes bounching across the joints in the armature!!!!!! Joe Blue One From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 20:54:46 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 19:54:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] MG question Message-ID: <491277.64602.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> A friend has asked anout an MG Midget on ebay, the photo shows a roll-up window car. The VIN is GAN5U894909G and it is listed as a 1971. From Sprite numbering I would expect a GAN5 to have side curtains and not a anything close to a 1971. Thoughts? Bob From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 21:11:46 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:11:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] noise supression In-Reply-To: <4c562a81.03a8960a.617e.ffffafdd@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <578807.93826.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I work with computers on the Web all day and some nights. I reversed the polarity on my 65 BACK to positive earth so as not to have to deal with 21st Century Noise. Here's to 20th Century Noise. Greg --- On Sun, 8/1/10, eyera3 at gmail.com wrote: > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] noise supression > To: "healeymanjim" , "healeys at autox.team.net" > Date: Sunday, August 1, 2010, 10:16 PM > Just listen to exhaust music. I > pulled my radio out 25 years ago. > I never get a song I do not like;) > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "healeymanjim" > Date: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 6:27 pm > Subject: [Healeys] noise supression > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > > i have an old sears positive ground radio in the bj8 and > lately i have noticed a lot of static. tried a new > ariel. no luck. have copper center wires and resistor > plugs. when engine is shut off the fm is really ok, > but am still wonky. underway, the am is > really staticy unless it is a really strong > station. i also tried different speakers > with no luck. i have given up listening to it and just > wear earphones with am/fm. works better > anyway. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 21:14:07 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:14:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4c5629ed.013f970a.4c47.ffffabc8@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <524671.85974.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I-95 Stamford CT, 4 to 7 pm. --- On Sun, 8/1/10, eyera3 at gmail.com wrote: > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating > To: "F Ronald Rader" , "Healey List" > Date: Sunday, August 1, 2010, 10:14 PM > Or the Grape Vine I5 north of Los > Angeles in August > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "F Ronald Rader" > Date: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 7:04 pm > Subject: [Healeys] overheating > To: "Healey List" > > A much more difficult test to pass. > ron rader > 405 freeway, LA > > > > re: "Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours > at Sebring ..." > > > > Has it been tested on Hwy 405 in Los Angeles on a > Friday at 'rush' hour in > August? > > > > > > bs > > > > > > Quinn, Patrick wrote: > >> > >> G'day Kees > >> > >> Overheating in Joe's BJ8 was tested for 12 hours > at Sebring in 1965 and > then > >> at various other picturesque circuitous locations > in the UK, US and > Australia > >> over the 45 years since. > >> > >> I would say that of all the cars belonging to > members of this list, Joe's > car > >> would have had more time in anger and the > exploiting its power than anyone > >> else's. > >> > >> Hoo Roo > >> > >> Patrick Quinn > >> Sydney, Australia > >> > >> Ps It always pays to know your Healey History > before you make a comment. > >> > > > > > ******************************************************************* > > Bob Spidell > San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Aug 1 21:18:39 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:18:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: <4C563268.5040505@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl> <4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl> <91B13586-3B9D-4CA8-A328-D11F656C777D@cox.net> <4C563268.5040505@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: Of course. I was just further qualifying the answer to whether the car had been "driven in anger" Certainly, I was just poking fun. That car did extremely well. Wasn't that also the best a Healey had done at Sebring? 1st in class and 17th overall is just damn good! On Aug 1, 2010, at 7:50 PM, Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: > Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > >> yeah, but that car only got 17th place. oh... first in the 3 Liter >> GT class. >> >> That's staying "cool" >> >> Wilko > > ERIC > It is important to consider who finished ahead AND who the Healey > finished ahead of. Thre is some heavy iron that came after position > 17. > Also in the extreme rain downpour the BMC cars were setting fastest > laps, with the LUCAS wipers and the LUCAS headlights and the LUCAS > fog lights and all powered by the LUCAS generator with crappy old > carbon brushes bounching across the joints in the armature!!!!!! > > Joe > Blue One From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 21:28:46 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:28:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Who ever said, "Healey people are the nicest people until they go to sell it." is a sage. I picked up a brake booster off eBay (I know, but it's where I got my car) with no indication as to condition. All questions received vague answers. But, hey! It was VERY Clean, rust free and relatively cheap but, when I opened it, it had about a pint of break fluid in it. I know I asked before, but I'm forgetful: If anyone on the list rebuilds boosters or you have a recommendation as to who rebuilds them, if you would, please, send me an email with their contact information, prices and success rate. Thanks Greg From jagwarman at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 21:29:04 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 23:29:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] cell phone reception Message-ID: I had to make a comment . The other day i used my cell phone while driving my healey and the party I was talking to ask me if I was in a airplane cause my healey is so loud. ha ha From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 21:52:46 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 11:52:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com> <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg - In the US most people on the list recommend these guys: *http://tinyurl.com/385zck8* * * Also, Rich Chrysler uses these guys (which is a vote of confidence): http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/ Alan On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 11:28 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Who ever said, "Healey people are the nicest people until they go to sell > it." is a sage. > > I picked up a brake booster off eBay (I know, but it's where I got my car) > with no indication as to condition. All questions received vague answers. > > But, hey! It was VERY Clean, rust free and relatively cheap but, when I > opened it, it had about a pint of break fluid in it. > > I know I asked before, but I'm forgetful: > > If anyone on the list rebuilds boosters or you have a recommendation as to > who rebuilds them, if you would, please, send me an email with their contact > information, prices and success rate. > > Thanks > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 1 21:56:11 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 23:56:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg, John Stuart Power Brake in Stoney Creek Ontario will rebuild it and warranty it for 1 year. They even show this unit on their web site. http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/Automotive.page?CategoryID=84&CurrentPage=2&ItemID=327 . Not cheap, but excellent work. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Mandas" Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 11:28 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster > Who ever said, "Healey people are the nicest people until they go to sell > it." is a sage. > > I picked up a brake booster off eBay (I know, but it's where I got my car) > with no indication as to condition. All questions received vague answers. > > But, hey! It was VERY Clean, rust free and relatively cheap but, when I > opened it, it had about a pint of break fluid in it. > > I know I asked before, but I'm forgetful: > > If anyone on the list rebuilds boosters or you have a recommendation as to > who rebuilds them, if you would, please, send me an email with their > contact information, prices and success rate. > > Thanks > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 1 22:20:38 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 23:20:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: References: <2015790127.815836.1280606831074.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><4C5526E9.6060800@chello.nl> <4C554F97.9070602@chello.nl><4C559384.8080007@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4C559834.60602@chello.nl><91B13586-3B9D-4CA8-A328-D11F656C777D@cox.net><4C563268.5040505@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: "Wasn't that also the best a Healey had done at Sebring? 1st in class and 17th overall is just damn good!" A 100S finished 3rd overall a Sebring in '54, many of the big bore cars dropped out, but it beat quite a few of them too. I believe a rocker arm broke or something on the car or it would likely have won. http://ferrariexperts.com/SCCA%20results%201954.htm#MAC Greg Lemon From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 1 22:55:42 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 21:55:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <58085.54953.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Sorry guys ... the best Healeys at Sebring were always the Sprites. Check out these records: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sebring_Sprite Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/2/10, Greg Lemon wrote: From: Greg Lemon Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Cc: "healeys help" Date: Monday, August 2, 2010, 12:20 AM "Wasn't that also the best a Healey had done at Sebring? 1st in class and 17th overall is just damn good!" A 100S finished 3rd overall a Sebring in '54, many of the big bore cars dropped out, but it beat quite a few of them too. I believe a rocker arm broke or something on the car or it would likely have won. http://ferrariexperts.com/SCCA%20results%201954.htm#MAC Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From ynotink at msn.com Sun Aug 1 23:17:12 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 05:17:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: <152F2A6083004CB287B2A66020BD52E1@GregPC> References: , <152F2A6083004CB287B2A66020BD52E1@GregPC> Message-ID: I've heard that many of the water pumps in LBCs can use rebuild kits from tractors. Might be worth a look. Bill Lawrence > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 10:02:34 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires > > " Wonder what else is still available at tractor supply stores that would > be good for our cars, and that can't be found at the typical aftermarket > auto supply stores. > > Best > Gary" > > Although I have not had trouble finding it at other places (others on the > list have asked where to find it though) tractor supply houses usually are > good places to find 30w non-detergent motor oil, they are also usually well > stocked with welding supplies. > > Greg Lemon > Nebraska (where it is easier to find a tractor/farm supply store than a Pep > Boys) > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 23:48:26 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 22:48:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Jamaican for sale Message-ID: http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/1864008708.html NFI -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 1 23:57:25 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 13:57:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Jamaican for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jamaican me cry! On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 1:48 PM, I Erbs wrote: > http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/1864008708.html > NFI > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 2 02:13:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 10:13:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] noise supression In-Reply-To: <20100802012717.7504.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100802012717.7504.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4C567E1F.3010209@chello.nl> Try fitting a capacitor on the dynamo/alternator and if needed also on the heater fan and wiper motor. These items can usually be found in the auto store or you can use the ones as are fitted on your distributor. Make sure that earth connections are solid and the the aerial and its wire mantel are solidly earthed. Also probably available in auto shops are "noise killers" which are fitted in line in the supply wire. I do not know if these are polarity sensitive. Position of the aerial can be important as well. Fit it as far away from the engine as possible. However if you have a hole in the front wing you are not going to drill another in the rear deck panel or rear wing Kees Oudesluijs NL healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > i have an old sears positive ground radio in the bj8 and lately i have noticed a lot of static. tried a new ariel. no luck. have copper center wires and resistor plugs. when engine is shut off the fm is really ok, but am still wonky. underway, the am is really staticy unless it is a really strong station. i also tried different speakers with no luck. i have given up listening to it and just wear earphones with am/fm. works better anyway. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Aug 2 02:13:13 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 04:13:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] MG question In-Reply-To: <491277.64602.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <491277.64602.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C567E19.4080000@earthlink.net> Bob, The VIN is legit for an MG. The Austin-Healey Sprite of the time would start with HAN10. When the Sprite became just the Austin Sprite the VIN prefix changed to AAN10. - Original Sprite and Midget by Terry Horler. Cheers, Bob Bob Brown wrote: > A friend has asked anout an MG Midget on ebay, the photo shows a roll-up window > car. The VIN is GAN5U894909G and it is listed as a 1971. From Sprite numbering I > would expect a GAN5 to have side curtains and not a anything close to a 1971. > > Thoughts? > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 2 02:48:29 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 10:48:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires In-Reply-To: References: , <152F2A6083004CB287B2A66020BD52E1@GregPC> Message-ID: <4C56865D.30107@chello.nl> The bearing shafts and seals are often interchangeable or can be adapted between a lot of (not only) British cars, trucks and tractors. The same goes for clutch cover plates and pressure plates, brake parts, instruments, electrical equipment, even engine bearings and pistons. However it is a difficult and laborious job the make up a reference list. I used a dirt cheap NOS water pump (Ebay) from Vauxhall to rebuild the water pump from my Jensen Healey (Lotus engine). I just had to shorten the impeller shaft. I have made up a lengthy list of all alternative parts for this car and you will be amazed of the amount of parts that can be had easily and cheaply if you are in the know. E.g. front wheel bearing is the same as for various Opels (Kadett, Ascona, GT) which were the most common cars in the 60's, 70's and 80's over here. Kees Oudesluijs WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I've heard that many of the water pumps in LBCs can use rebuild kits from > tractors. Might be worth a look. > Bill Lawrence > > >> From: glemon at neb.rr.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 10:02:34 -0500 >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires >> >> " Wonder what else is still available at tractor supply stores that would >> be good for our cars, and that can't be found at the typical aftermarket >> auto supply stores. >> >> Best >> Gary" >> >> Although I have not had trouble finding it at other places (others on the >> list have asked where to find it though) tractor supply houses usually are >> good places to find 30w non-detergent motor oil, they are also usually well >> stocked with welding supplies. >> >> Greg Lemon >> Nebraska (where it is easier to find a tractor/farm supply store than a Pep >> Boys) >> _______________________________________________ >> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 06:50:16 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:50:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names Message-ID: I have a "football" card from a player named Austin Healey. Wonder how that came about. The host of the national MGC registry some years ago claimed his two sons were named Austin and Jensen. Jack From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 07:01:05 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 08:01:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names In-Reply-To: <00e401cb3242$7f529520$7df7bf60$@net> References: <00e401cb3242$7f529520$7df7bf60$@net> Message-ID: Oops, sorry. I haven't looked at it for a while. Thanks for the update. Jack On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:59 AM, Mell & Mike Ward wrote: > Jack > > He is a rugby player over here > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jack Feldman > Sent: 02 August 2010 1:50 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names > > I have a "football" card from a player named Austin Healey. Wonder how that > came about. > > The host of the national MGC registry some years ago claimed his two sons > were named Austin and Jensen. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/russward at lineone.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Aug 2 07:09:39 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 09:09:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] MG question In-Reply-To: <491277.64602.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <491277.64602.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f901cb3243$f71a3a80$e54eaf80$@rr.com> Bob, I think there is either a missing letter in the VIN, or the "8" has been misread for a "B": GAN5UB..... This letter designates the model year. I have a '73 Midget, GAN5UD126009G. The "D" means the 1973 model year (my car was actually built in October 1972). I have the remains of GAN5UC123512, which was a '72. Therefore, the "B" would fit for the '71 model year. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Brown Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 10:55 PM To: bugeye at yahoogroups.com; Healey List Subject: [Healeys] MG question A friend has asked anout an MG Midget on ebay, the photo shows a roll-up window car. The VIN is GAN5U894909G and it is listed as a 1971. From Sprite numbering I would expect a GAN5 to have side curtains and not a anything close to a 1971. Thoughts? Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3037 - Release Date: 08/01/10 14:40:00 From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 07:39:19 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 06:39:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names In-Reply-To: References: <00e401cb3242$7f529520$7df7bf60$@net> Message-ID: My son's name is Jensen. When my wife asked me for boy baby names she got the list: "Jensen, Austin, Healey, Studebaker". I threw Studebaker in for the pure ridiculousness of it. For girl names it was "Mercedes, Portia, Eleanor." (for the three car guys in the world that may not know, Eleanor was the name of the Mustang in Gone in 60 seconds, 1973 in the original, 1967 in the remake) She mocked me until we went through all the J names in the baby book (family tradition is first boy has a J name) and we crossed them all off going "I knew a guy with that name and he was a (moron|w at nker|idiot|loser|etc)" or "Too old testament/Amish farmer". The only name left was Jensen. So, I won! The problem now is she was left with two baby names that she loves, Eleanor and Desmond. So it looks like I shall have to start shopping for a bigger house. :) Jody On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 6:01 AM, Jack Feldman wrote: > Oops, sorry. I haven't looked at it for a while. > > Thanks for the update. > > Jack > > On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:59 AM, Mell & Mike Ward wrote: > >> Jack >> >> He is a rugby player over here >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Jack Feldman >> Sent: 02 August 2010 1:50 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names >> >> I have a "football" card from a player named Austin Healey. Wonder how that >> came about. >> >> The host of the national MGC registry some years ago claimed his two sons >> were named Austin and Jensen. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/russward at lineone.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From peter at nosimport.com Mon Aug 2 07:50:08 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 08:50:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Wire Set In-Reply-To: <4C54B427.1090708@att.net> References: <014601cb30d9$18a62810$49f27830$@net> <8CCFF1C63CCCE16-50CC-1BB34@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com> <4C54B427.1090708@att.net> Message-ID: <201008020650353.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Bosch have sets available in solid wire. The 6 cylinder set is part number 09-986 retailing under $30.00. Most FLAPS can't look them up in their computers, though. Give them the part number. (btw, 4 - cyl are 09-985, and 8 cyl is 09-987) Good parts stores will carry them. Peter C ..................... >On 7/31/2010 7:08 PM, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: >>Most auto parts stores have 6 cyl. tractor ignition wire sets with the spark >>plug ends already crimped on including the rubber boots. That is >>the only way >>I know of to get solid wire core ignition wires already made >>up. Use resistor >>spark plugs to eliminate ignition noise in you car radio if needed >>and for the >>car next to you on the road. >> >>Larry >>'67 BJ8 From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Aug 2 08:00:53 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 10:00:53 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone Message-ID: Adam Burckle has offered his Silverstone for sale. This is a ex-Bill Emerson car and in excellent condition. Contact Adam for more information at _adamb at adammatthews.com_ (mailto:adamb at adammatthews.com) . I have decided to sell my very rare and unique, 3 time concours winner Healey Silverstone. This is for the ultimate collector. It is a once in a lifetime opportunity. It is Mille Miglia eligible, it is Pebble Beach eligible and as you know the finest in the world. For more information see healeysilverstone.com or contact Adam at _adamb at adammatthews.com_ (mailto:adamb at adammatthews.com) Adam Burckle 2104 Plantside Drive Louisville, KY 40299-1924 (502) 499-2253 From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Aug 2 08:05:37 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 10:05:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names References: <00e401cb3242$7f529520$7df7bf60$@net> Message-ID: <9DCF749756874450B86A2140C6907D5D@computer624080> A friend's grandson is named Jensen Healey. (The father has had at least one British car (Triumph--big mistake!) but as far as I know never an Austin-Healey.) We were waiting for him to name his second boy "Austin," but he didn't.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jody Kerr" To: "Jack Feldman" Cc: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Names > My son's name is Jensen. > > When my wife asked me for boy baby names she got the list: "Jensen, > Austin, Healey, Studebaker". I threw Studebaker in for the pure > ridiculousness of it. > > For girl names it was "Mercedes, Portia, Eleanor." (for the three car > guys in the world that may not know, Eleanor was the name of the > Mustang in Gone in 60 seconds, 1973 in the original, 1967 in the > remake) > > She mocked me until we went through all the J names in the baby book > (family tradition is first boy has a J name) and we crossed them all > off going "I knew a guy with that name and he was a > (moron|w at nker|idiot|loser|etc)" or "Too old testament/Amish farmer". > The only name left was Jensen. So, I won! > > The problem now is she was left with two baby names that she loves, > Eleanor and Desmond. So it looks like I shall have to start shopping > for a bigger house. :) > > Jody > > On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 6:01 AM, Jack Feldman > wrote: >> Oops, sorry. I haven't looked at it for a while. >> >> Thanks for the update. >> >> Jack >> >> On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:59 AM, Mell & Mike Ward > wrote: >> >>> Jack >>> >>> He is a rugby player over here >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >>> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >>> On Behalf Of Jack Feldman >>> Sent: 02 August 2010 1:50 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names >>> >>> I have a "football" card from a player named Austin Healey. Wonder how > that >>> came about. >>> >>> The host of the national MGC registry some years ago claimed his two >>> sons >>> were named Austin and Jensen. >>> >>> Jack From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 08:06:43 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:06:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New addition to the LBC stable (non Healey) Message-ID: Hey guys, So I've been stuck in the "no car to drive" doldrums for a bit now, and I know that I tend to spend more time on my restoration projects when I have something interesting to drive. I'm afraid my Ford Explorer just wasn't interesting enough. The JH is proceeding well, I'm finishing up the interior carpets/vinyl and am just about to reassemble the 5speed rear end for my project. I'm shooting to have it done for Wheels of Britain in March 2011 so I can then finally move on to my 3000. To assist in keeping me out there and interested I aquired this little gem of a find. http://www.theymightberacing.com/MyCars/Triumph1981TR8.aspx It's a 1981 Triumph TR8 and it goes VROOM! :) Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 08:32:45 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:32:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 AH 300 on BaT Message-ID: http://bringatrailer.com/2010/08/02/1960-austin-healey-project/ Doesn't look too bad if anyone's looking for a project. Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From cjerryadams at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 08:44:11 2010 From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com (jerry adams) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:44:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] overheating In-Reply-To: References: , , <841864.52218.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, <4C5431E8.6070005@chello.nl> <01f301cb30c9$25da89f0$718f9dd0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <809350.94249.qm@web51504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> OK! Deionized water is pure from an electrial standpoint. It will not pass electricty. But is unhealthy as the devil to drink, can be full of nasty bacteria. Tap water is pure to drink ( in most cases) but can shock the s*** out of a person. It can be loaded with mineral salts (hard water) or be low in mineral salts (soft water). Most tap water falls into the hard water catergory. Distilled water gets rid of most if not all of the mineral salts and bacteria and is used in the health services i.e. hospital etc. and GMP facilities. Reverse osmosis is another form of distilled water (you can get by the gallons at Wal Mart). That said, I am the engineering manager of a small mfg. facility and we have 4 process steam boilers. These boilers require an annual state inspection. Before I added water softeners to the make up water we had to acidize the boilers to clean the scale build up on the fire tubes sometimes as much as 3/8" to 1/2" due to the hard tap water. I always use distilled or softened tap water in all my vehicles. Jerry BN2 ________________________________ From: I Erbs To: John Sims Cc: "" Sent: Sat, July 31, 2010 2:11:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating My radiator is out, just got back from being recored. Manifolds are off too. Is there anyway to flush the engine, or do I wait for it to be running again and then flush it? I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Jul 31, 2010, at 8:57 AM, "John Sims" wrote: > I've used distilled water exclusively since 1956 when I got my first car > while in high school and can not remember ever having a radiator problem due > to scaling, etc. Of course, sometimes I can not remember in the afternoon > what I had for breakfast in the morning but that is another story. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Richard Kahn > Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 11:38 AM > To: coudesluijs at chello.nl; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] overheating > > They sell a lot of shower cleaners to get rid of the sediment which is still > very hard to remove from the floors and walls. Same crap in the engines. I > vote for distilled water. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ From dan at warner-associates.com Mon Aug 2 08:49:38 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 09:49:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Wire Set In-Reply-To: <8CCFF1C63CCCE16-50CC-1BB34@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <9B9BD6A8D8684ADE9C80AF3AB95E7905@DANSTROM> Good comment/idea on the pre crimped plug wires ends. The screw in rubber spark plug boots do not always make a good connection and you will get corrosion on some. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bighealey3k at aim.com Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 6:08 PM To: charlieoc at comcast.net; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Wire Set Most auto parts stores have 6 cyl. tractor ignition wire sets with the spark plug ends already crimped on including the rubber boots. That is the only way I know of to get solid wire core ignition wires already made up. Use resistor spark plugs to eliminate ignition noise in you car radio if needed and for the car next to you on the road. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Charlie O'Connors To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2010 1:52 pm Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Wire Set I want to replace the ignition wire set on my 1960 BT7. I was looking at he Cobalt set sold by Moss as well as the Magnecor wire sets, but they ppear to be more for later model 3000s. Any suggestions on ignition wire ets for the 1960 Austin Healey? Charlie O'Connors Havana, Florida 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 1960 Austin Healey Sprite ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Aug 2 08:51:39 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 10:51:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Fast Lady Message-ID: <011101cb3252$36d16230$a4742690$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - While having my coffee this morning, I caught most of a good movie on TCM. Entitled "The Fast Lady" (1962), it involved a Scotsman who was attempting to get his driver's license. It's full of those old British cars we love and the lovely English countryside, too. I kept looking for a Healey, but had to wait until the very last scene for one to show up, when a girl arrives in a Hundred to pick up the car salesman. You can see some clips and the trailer for the movie by Googling The Fast Lady. Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Aug 2 09:22:48 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 11:22:48 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Names Message-ID: <1193c1.1da8e22e.39883cc8@aol.com> In 1987 I got married again, in 1988 I sold my 1961 3000 to pay for a vasectomy reversal, in 1990 my daughter was born, Austen Marie. My wife and I compromised on the spelling of the name as she was a big Jane Austen fan and it seemed Austin was more male. It's now 2010, my daughter will be turning twenty, the wife is gone and my 3000 has been replaced with a 100, BN1. I don't plan on any more vasectomy surgeries, Austen has her eye on the Austin, but knows it will be years from now and life is good and we all get a kick out of the story. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 8/2/2010 6:40:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jodyfkerr at gmail.com writes: My son's name is Jensen. When my wife asked me for boy baby names she got the list: "Jensen, Austin, Healey, Studebaker". I threw Studebaker in for the pure ridiculousness of it. For girl names it was "Mercedes, Portia, Eleanor." (for the three car guys in the world that may not know, Eleanor was the name of the Mustang in Gone in 60 seconds, 1973 in the original, 1967 in the remake) She mocked me until we went through all the J names in the baby book (family tradition is first boy has a J name) and we crossed them all off going "I knew a guy with that name and he was a (moron|w at nker|idiot|loser|etc)" or "Too old testament/Amish farmer". The only name left was Jensen. So, I won! The problem now is she was left with two baby names that she loves, Eleanor and Desmond. So it looks like I shall have to start shopping for a bigger house. :) Jody From jstmorris at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 10:16:43 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 09:16:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <672106.6539.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> And the website is: http://www.healeysilverstone.com/ --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Mon, 8/2/10, Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone To: BluegrassClub at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net, adamb at adammatthews.com Received: Monday, August 2, 2010, 10:00 AM Adam Burckle has offered his Silverstone for sale. This is a ex-Bill Emerson car and in excellent condition. Contact Adam for more information at _adamb at adammatthews.com_ (mailto:adamb at adammatthews.com) . I have decided to sell my very rare and unique, 3 time concours winner Healey Silverstone. This is for the ultimate collector. It is a once in a lifetime opportunity. It is Mille Miglia eligible, it is Pebble Beach eligible and as you know the finest in the world. For more information see healeysilverstone.com or contact Adam at _adamb at adammatthews.com_ (mailto:adamb at adammatthews.com) Adam Burckle 2104 Plantside Drive Louisville, KY 40299-1924 (502) 499-2253 From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 11:01:58 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 10:01:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] turn power on Message-ID: <75675.68530.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List, I'm about ready to turn the power onto my new wiring harness.I have gone around and double checked all my connections.All the wires are hooked up to where they should go,hopefully.I was thinking of leaving my new fuel pump disconnected,other than that should I just turn the switch on and hope for the best or is there a sequence of pluging stuff in and look for smoke?I have a new voltage regulator,and new relays everywhere. I would love to just turn the switch on ,listen for the fuel pump to stop clicking,turn the key and the motor will start right up.Anyone had any experience with this step? THanks Don From robertlarson at att.net Mon Aug 2 10:52:37 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 12:52:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires & now parts interchange In-Reply-To: <4C56865D.30107@chello.nl> References: , <152F2A6083004CB287B2A66020BD52E1@GregPC> <4C56865D.30107@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4C56F7D5.2060703@att.net> Here on this side of the pond there is a publisher that sells interchange guides. I've in the past heard it referred to as the "Junkyards Bible". They do a few versions for classic cars and I would guess that with only a few interchanges it could pay for itself. I have not used it myself but have seen it being referred to in more than one yard. The classic versions are here: https://hollanderinterchange.net/catalog/index.php?cPath=21 Standard N.F.I. disclaimer... Bob 55BN1 On 8/2/2010 4:48 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > The bearing shafts and seals are often interchangeable or can be adapted > between a lot of (not only) British cars, trucks and tractors. > The same goes for clutch cover plates and pressure plates, brake parts, > instruments, electrical equipment, even engine bearings and pistons. > However it is a difficult and laborious job the make up a reference list. > > I used a dirt cheap NOS water pump (Ebay) from Vauxhall to rebuild the > water pump from my Jensen Healey (Lotus engine). I just had to shorten > the impeller shaft. > > I have made up a lengthy list of all alternative parts for this car and > you will be amazed of the amount of parts that can be had easily and > cheaply if you are in the know. E.g. front wheel bearing is the same as > for various Opels (Kadett, Ascona, GT) which were the most common cars > in the 60's, 70's and 80's over here. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > >> I've heard that many of the water pumps in LBCs can use rebuild kits from >> tractors. Might be worth a look. >> Bill Lawrence >> >> >> >>> From: glemon at neb.rr.com >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 10:02:34 -0500 >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Solid core non-resistor wires >>> >>> " Wonder what else is still available at tractor supply stores that would >>> be good for our cars, and that can't be found at the typical aftermarket >>> auto supply stores. >>> >>> Best >>> Gary" >>> >>> Although I have not had trouble finding it at other places (others on the >>> list have asked where to find it though) tractor supply houses usually are >>> good places to find 30w non-detergent motor oil, they are also usually well >>> stocked with welding supplies. >>> >>> Greg Lemon >>> Nebraska (where it is easier to find a tractor/farm supply store than a Pep >>> Boys) >>> _______________________________________________ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 11:07:47 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:07:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command In-Reply-To: <784793.55759.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <784793.55759.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks Scott. I'll ad the add and info to my website. Derek On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 5:21 PM, J. Scott Morris wrote: > Hello Derek & Rick; > > > > That ad was in the April 1958 [page 2] issue of Sports Car Journal, the > official magazine of the California Sports Car Club. A copy of the ad and > journal is attached. > > > > I realize the attachments will be stripped from the Healey List but not the > reference. > > > > Enjoy the day and Keep Smiling > > > > --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada > > J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives > > On *Sun, 8/1/10, Derek Job * wrote: << Thanks for > the link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I > had all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before. >> > > > On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 1:12 AM, HealeyRick > > wrote: << Nice feature on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: > http://thechicaneblog.com/ >> From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 11:08:21 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:08:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey - For the Man in Command In-Reply-To: References: <784793.55759.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Err... that's add the ad! doh On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:07 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Thanks Scott. I'll ad the add and info to my website. > > Derek > > On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 5:21 PM, J. Scott Morris wrote: > >> Hello Derek & Rick; >> >> >> >> That ad was in the April 1958 [page 2] issue of Sports Car Journal, the >> official magazine of the California Sports Car Club. A copy of the ad >> and journal is attached. >> >> >> >> I realize the attachments will be stripped from the Healey List but not >> the reference. >> >> >> >> Enjoy the day and Keep Smiling >> >> >> >> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada >> >> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives >> >> On *Sun, 8/1/10, Derek Job * wrote: << Thanks for >> the link. Although it doesn't mention it, that car is a 100-Six. I thought I >> had all the 100-Six ads but I've never seen that one before. >> >> >> >> On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 1:12 AM, HealeyRick > >> wrote: << Nice feature on "The Chicane" for AH advertisements: >> http://thechicaneblog.com/ >> From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Mon Aug 2 11:51:48 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 12:51:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] turn power on In-Reply-To: <75675.68530.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <75675.68530.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <033201cb326b$62da6340$288f29c0$@net> Bob I just did this task on my BJ8 a few days ago. Here is what I did. Remove both fuses in the fuse box. Remove wire to fuel pump. Wire a external fuse holder between the battery cable and one of the battery terminal. I used a low amp fuse, 7.5 to 15 amp With nothing turned on, check for battery voltage on the brown wires at the fuse box. Brown wires are always hot. If everything is OK, install fuse in the bottom slot. Brown to white. This will supply power to ign. Switch. Turn key to run. If still OK, turn key to off. Wire fuel pump. Turn key to run. Pump should operate. If still OK, replace top fuse in fuse box. This will power the green wires. Now you can check lights, wiper, heater blower and everything else, one at a time. If all is OK, you can connect the battery without the external fuse. You can start the motor. Remember that the white/black wire at the battery cut off switch, in the trunk, is wired directly to the coil. With the battery switch off this wire provides a ground to the coil, a further anti theft feature. If this wire is grounded you will not get spark to the plugs. Worked for me. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Day Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 12:02 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] turn power on Hi List, I'm about ready to turn the power onto my new wiring harness.I have gone around and double checked all my connections.All the wires are hooked up to where they should go,hopefully.I was thinking of leaving my new fuel pump disconnected,other than that should I just turn the switch on and hope for the best or is there a sequence of pluging stuff in and look for smoke?I have a new voltage regulator,and new relays everywhere. I would love to just turn the switch on ,listen for the fuel pump to stop clicking,turn the key and the motor will start right up.Anyone had any experience with this step? THanks Don _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 2 12:40:00 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 14:40:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Question Message-ID: <001801cb3272$1d57e070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> This weekend I was introduced to another way to fine tune the timing on our cars but I got to the tech session a bit late so I am hoping some one can advise. The theory is to run the car up to about 4500 RPMs and set the timing at approx. 32 degrees. This can be done by using a set back timing light since 32 degrees is not obtainable on our car pulleys. I believe the 4500 RPMs takes the car up to max. advance which gives you a finer timing adjustment. That many RPMs seemed a bit excessive when you heard the cars revving up big time but none of them blew up so I guess no harm was done. Sorry that my comments here are a little vague but I did walk in at the middle of the tech session so the details are a bit foggy. I would like to try this so if any one can enlighten me a little more please do. Please correct me or add to what I have already mentioned. Mark From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 2 13:05:27 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:05:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Message-ID: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and engine and am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the highway. The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol 20-50 now since I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for about 300 miles. Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could swap out and test . My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I purchased back in 1998. Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am wondering if this could be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows a screw on filter to be used and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external engine parts are new or rebuilt. Any advise appreciated, Mark From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 2 13:54:24 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:54:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Question In-Reply-To: <001801cb3272$1d57e070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001801cb3272$1d57e070$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C572270.90909@chello.nl> Does not sound illogical to me as the timing would be accurate in the power band you are using when driving spirited. At those revs the mechanical advance system is at max. Be sure though that the balance weights and springs are in good order and moving otherwise you may turn up with the wrong timing at low revs. Kees Oudesluijs Mark LaPierre wrote: > This weekend I was introduced to another way to fine tune the timing on our > cars but I got to > the tech session a bit late so I am hoping some one can advise. The theory > is to run the car > up to about 4500 RPMs and set the timing at approx. 32 degrees. This can be > done by using > a set back timing light since 32 degrees is not obtainable on our car pulleys. > I believe the 4500 > RPMs takes the car up to max. advance which gives you a finer timing > adjustment. That many > RPMs seemed a bit excessive when you heard the cars revving up big time but > none of them > blew up so I guess no harm was done. > > Sorry that my comments here are a little vague but I did walk in at the middle > of the tech session so the details are a bit foggy. I would like to try > this so if any one can enlighten me a little more please do. > > Please correct me or add to what I have already mentioned. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3044 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/10 20:40:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Aug 2 13:58:58 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:58:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <011f01cb327d$25758270$70608750$@rr.com> Hi, Mark - 40 to 50 psi on the highway when the oil is hot is pretty good. My BJ8 runs at just below 40 on the gauge when hot, and has since the engine rebuild in 1999. I now have 70,000 miles on the engine rebuild and the oil pressure is the same as it was with a fresh engine. At idle (1000 RPM), the pressure when hot can drop down to 20 psi or even lower, with no problems. I have always used Castrol 20W-50 until recently, when I changed to Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20W-50 for the ZDDP content. No change in pressure. I also have a screw-on filter adapter, but it is one of those antiques (1987) from Moss that holds the filter at the same orientation as the original canister. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and engine and am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the highway. The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol 20-50 now since I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for about 300 miles. Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could swap out and test . My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I purchased back in 1998. Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am wondering if this could be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows a screw on filter to be used and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external engine parts are new or rebuilt. Any advise appreciated, Mark From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 2 14:14:48 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 16:14:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <011f01cb327d$25758270$70608750$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20100802161448.BUEAU.126832.root@pamxwww02-z01> My experience is the same as Steve's. I do not have the screw-on oil filter. tom ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: ============= Hi, Mark - 40 to 50 psi on the highway when the oil is hot is pretty good. My BJ8 runs at just below 40 on the gauge when hot, and has since the engine rebuild in 1999. I now have 70,000 miles on the engine rebuild and the oil pressure is the same as it was with a fresh engine. At idle (1000 RPM), the pressure when hot can drop down to 20 psi or even lower, with no problems. I have always used Castrol 20W-50 until recently, when I changed to Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20W-50 for the ZDDP content. No change in pressure. I also have a screw-on filter adapter, but it is one of those antiques (1987) from Moss that holds the filter at the same orientation as the original canister. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and engine and am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the highway. The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol 20-50 now since I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for about 300 miles. Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could swap out and test . My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I purchased back in 1998. Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am wondering if this could be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows a screw on filter to be used and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external engine parts are new or rebuilt. Any advise appreciated, Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 2 14:22:26 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:22:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Timing Question In-Reply-To: <4C572270.90909@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1805062708.890168.1280780546439.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I always thought centrifugal advance was 'all in' before 4,500rpm. If centrifugal advance was all in at, say, 3,000 rpm which would be high, part-throttle cruising then the vacuum advance should add a few degrees as well. Seem to recall the max advance spec was around 35 deg at 3,000-3,500 or so, but not sure. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Does not sound illogical to me as the timing would be accurate in the power band you are using when driving spirited. At those revs the mechanical advance system is at max. Be sure though that the balance weights and springs are in good order and moving otherwise you may turn up with the wrong timing at low revs. Kees Oudesluijs Mark LaPierre wrote: > This weekend I was introduced to another way to fine tune the timing on our > cars but I got to > the tech session a bit late so I am hoping some one can advise. The theory > is to run the car > up to about 4500 RPMs and set the timing at approx. 32 degrees. This can be > done by using > a set back timing light since 32 degrees is not obtainable on our car pulleys. > I believe the 4500 > RPMs takes the car up to max. advance which gives you a finer timing > adjustment. That many > RPMs seemed a bit excessive when you heard the cars revving up big time but > none of them > blew up so I guess no harm was done. > > Sorry that my comments here are a little vague but I did walk in at the middle > of the tech session so the details are a bit foggy. I would like to try > this so if any one can enlighten me a little more please do. > > Please correct me or add to what I have already mentioned. > > Mark From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Mon Aug 2 14:48:42 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 13:48:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <20100802161448.BUEAU.126832.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <011f01cb327d$25758270$70608750$@rr.com> <20100802161448.BUEAU.126832.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: I would recommend that you temporarily install a calibrated oil pressure gauge in line to see what your actual oil pressure is. The original gauges are notoriously for not reading correctly. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > My experience is the same as Steve's. I do not have the screw-on oil > filter. > > tom > > ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: > > ============= > Hi, Mark - > 40 to 50 psi on the highway when the oil is hot is pretty good. My BJ8 > runs > at just below 40 on the gauge when hot, and has since the engine rebuild in > 1999. I now have 70,000 miles on the engine rebuild and the oil pressure > is > the same as it was with a fresh engine. At idle (1000 RPM), the pressure > when hot can drop down to 20 psi or even lower, with no problems. I have > always used Castrol 20W-50 until recently, when I changed to Valvoline VR-1 > Racing 20W-50 for the ZDDP content. No change in pressure. I also have a > screw-on filter adapter, but it is one of those antiques (1987) from Moss > that holds the filter at the same orientation as the original canister. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure > > I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and > engine > and > am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the > highway. > > The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol > 20-50 now since > I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for > about > 300 miles. > Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could > swap > out and test . > > My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I > purchased back in 1998. > Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am > wondering > if this could > be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows > a > screw on filter to be used > and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external > engine parts are new or rebuilt. > > Any advise appreciated, Mark From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Aug 2 15:06:43 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 17:06:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] turn power on In-Reply-To: <033201cb326b$62da6340$288f29c0$@net> References: <75675.68530.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <033201cb326b$62da6340$288f29c0$@net> Message-ID: <8CD009DBEB07EE3-24BC-1832@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> Herb Excellent procedure to follow. Eliminates some of the grief of a new harness install. That should added to a web site. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Herbert Miller To: 'Don Day' ; 'healey list' Sent: Mon, Aug 2, 2010 7:51 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] turn power on Bob I just did this task on my BJ8 a few days ago. Here is what I did. Remove both fuses in the fuse box. Remove wire to fuel pump. Wire a external fuse holder between the battery cable and one of the battery terminal. I used a low amp fuse, 7.5 to 15 amp With nothing turned on, check for battery voltage on the brown wires at the fuse box. Brown wires are always hot. If everything is OK, install fuse in the bottom slot. Brown to white. This will supply power to ign. Switch. Turn key to run. If still OK, turn key to off. Wire fuel pump. Turn key to run. Pump should operate. If still OK, replace top fuse in fuse box. This will power the green wires. Now you can check lights, wiper, heater blower and everything else, one at a time. If all is OK, you can connect the battery without the external fuse. You can start the motor. Remember that the white/black wire at the battery cut off switch, in the trunk, is wired directly to the coil. With the battery switch off this wire provides a ground to the coil, a further anti theft feature. If this wire is grounded you will not get spark to the plugs. Worked for me. Herb Miller From shop at justbrits.com Mon Aug 2 16:13:49 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 17:13:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <011f01cb327d$25758270$70608750$@rr.com> <20100802161448.BUEAU.126832.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: <4C57431D.4080101@justbrits.com> I'm very GLAD I have learned to read ALL mail[s] BEFORE I answer 'questions' or comment !! << I would recommend that you temporarily install a calibrated oil pressure gauge in line to see what your actual oil pressure is. The original gauges are notoriously for not reading correctly. >> Mike has hit the nail on the head, Mark !! I will also say the numbers seem to me to NOT be that far off of 'normal'. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 2 16:15:13 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:15:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] turn power on In-Reply-To: <8CD009DBEB07EE3-24BC-1832@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> References: <75675.68530.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <033201cb326b$62da6340$288f29c0$@net> <8CD009DBEB07EE3-24BC-1832@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <79131181-02AB-4400-9561-D6F97AF85C48@sbcglobal.net> The best thing to do when installing a new harness in order to protect it while checking your connections. Using a flasher unit or a circuit breaker from the local auto parts store. Connect a wire to each terminal and the install in series with the battery cable, between the terminal and the cable end. This will protect the entire harness while you are checking that every thing works. You will not be able to leave the headlight on very long or crank the engine over but every thing else will be fine. Then if there is a problem the circuit breaker or flasher unit will open before there is any damage to the harness. Also remember to install an inline fuse on the red wire on the back of the head light switch, This way you will protect the tail lights, marker lights and dash lights. Another option is to install an inline fuse in the white wire that goes under the car at the rear of the intake manifold, This will protect the wiring going to the fuel pump. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 2, 2010, at 2:06 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > Herb > Excellent procedure to follow. Eliminates some of the grief of a new > harness install. That should added to a web site. > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Herbert Miller > To: 'Don Day' ; 'healey list' > > Sent: Mon, Aug 2, 2010 7:51 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] turn power on > > > Bob > I just did this task on my BJ8 a few days ago. Here is what I did. > Remove both fuses in the fuse box. Remove wire to fuel pump. > Wire a external fuse holder between the battery cable and one of the > battery > terminal. > I used a low amp fuse, 7.5 to 15 amp > With nothing turned on, check for battery voltage on the brown > wires at > the > fuse box. Brown wires are always hot. > If everything is OK, install fuse in the bottom slot. Brown to white. > This > will supply power to ign. Switch. > Turn key to run. > If still OK, turn key to off. > Wire fuel pump. Turn key to run. Pump should operate. > If still OK, replace top fuse in fuse box. This will power the green > wires. > Now you can check lights, wiper, heater blower and everything else, > one > at a > time. If all is OK, you can connect the battery without the external > fuse. > You can start the motor. Remember that the white/black wire at the > battery > cut off switch, in the trunk, is wired directly to the coil. With the > battery switch off this wire provides a ground to the coil, a further > anti > theft feature. If this wire is grounded you will not get spark to the > plugs. > Worked for me. > Herb Miller > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From haywoodone at hotmail.com Mon Aug 2 16:48:18 2010 From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:48:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <20100801180419.9687.qmail@hoster902.com>, <249085.95283.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg, I second Rich's recommendation. I've Have had a rebuild by John Stewart Power Brake on my bj8 since 2007 with many miles on all kinds of terrain without a problem. The cost will be around $450 Canadian. Send it to them by US Postal Service to avoid brokerage fees of UPS ($40+). Take care, George Haywood > Who ever said, "Healey people are the nicest people until they go to sell it." is a sage. > > I picked up a brake booster off eBay (I know, but it's where I got my car) with no indication as to condition. All questions received vague answers. > > But, hey! It was VERY Clean, rust free and relatively cheap but, when I opened it, it had about a pint of break fluid in it. > > I know I asked before, but I'm forgetful: > > If anyone on the list rebuilds boosters or you have a recommendation as to who rebuilds them, if you would, please, send me an email with their contact information, prices and success rate. > > Thanks > > Greg From jagwarman at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 17:18:37 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:18:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Message-ID: Mark , I built my BJ8 and it runs around 55 to 65 hot while driving which I am quite satisfied with. You should run a compression test since it is a new engine and see where you stand. I live at 7000 ft elevation and I have 180 lbs per cylinder which is really good for my altitude. I also run the same type oil filter as you . The only way I could see better oil pressure is maybe 60wt or 50wt valvoline racing oil but I run castrol 20-50 as well . Sounds like your pressure is good don't worry about it. If you live a cold winter climate don't run the straight 50 or 60 in the winter. From jagwarman at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 17:19:52 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:19:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: Is anyone running any type of oil additives such as synthetic or otherwise? From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 2 18:51:09 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:51:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100802205109.4LX5X.132067.root@pamxwww02-z01> White Post in Va does them for around $470.00 ---- George Haywood wrote: ============= Greg, I second Rich's recommendation. I've Have had a rebuild by John Stewart Power Brake on my bj8 since 2007 with many miles on all kinds of terrain without a problem. The cost will be around $450 Canadian. Send it to them by US Postal Service to avoid brokerage fees of UPS ($40+). Take care, George Haywood > Who ever said, "Healey people are the nicest people until they go to sell it." is a sage. > > I picked up a brake booster off eBay (I know, but it's where I got my car) with no indication as to condition. All questions received vague answers. > > But, hey! It was VERY Clean, rust free and relatively cheap but, when I opened it, it had about a pint of break fluid in it. > > I know I asked before, but I'm forgetful: > > If anyone on the list rebuilds boosters or you have a recommendation as to who rebuilds them, if you would, please, send me an email with their contact information, prices and success rate. > > Thanks > > Greg _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From RMastrona at aol.com Mon Aug 2 18:54:04 2010 From: RMastrona at aol.com (Richard Mastronardi) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:54:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 BJ8 for sale Message-ID: <000001cb32a6$6fbc9160$4f35b420$@com> I have a very nice late model 1967 BJ8 for sale. I hate part with it, but I am out of car space. It needs nothing and drives great. Photo attached. More details, if you are seriously interested. Rich [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN5026.JPG] From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 2 19:04:27 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:04:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure', Follow Up References: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <001e01cb32a7$d2c1baf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> You guys are great. I will sleep a bit better knowing that the oil pressure should be in the OK area at 40 to 50 lbs. I don't know why but the MGs that I have been driving run in the range of 50 to 70 highway speeds. I just figured that this was the acceptable range for all LBCs. I may try Rolands idea on reusing the old pressure spring which I still have stashed away with all the other used parts that I kept. However I bet that project is a real bear to get at compared to doing it on the engine stand. I think I will get the top installed first, ; ) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure >I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and >engine > and > am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the > highway. > > The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using > Castrol > 20-50 now since > I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for > about > 300 miles. > Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could > swap > out and test . > > My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that > I > purchased back in 1998. > Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am > wondering > if this could > be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows > a > screw on filter to be used > and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All > internal/external > engine parts are new or rebuilt. > > Any advise appreciated, Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From jagwarman at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 20:33:51 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 22:33:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: Years ago I was at a swap meet and saw a oil treatment product that was being tested. The test was they put there treatment into a 1960's chevrolet engine and ran it for a couple hours they the drained the oil and took the oil pan off the engine and recranked the engine with no oil and they let it run non stop for ten hours mind you with no oil and no oil pan. That sold me. This product is called IXL and you can only order it and you put it in every 40,000 miles or once a year. You don't put more in when you change oil. This additive soaks into all metal moving parts and there is never a dry start up. It can be used in all the following applications. power steering automatic transmissions manual transmissions transfer cases wheel bearing and cv joints 2 cycle engines as well it can be used in conjuction with upto 80 wt lubes. It is also used in tractor hydraulics. I had found in tearing engines down that I used this product in there was no wear to rods , main, or cam bearings. I even run this stuff in my Harley and my lawn Mower. From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 20:40:04 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:40:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Message-ID: <590331.96166.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> My car is freash out of the barn without a rebuild. I run 60# Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 2, 2010, at 4:14 PM, Tom Felts wrote: My experience is the same as Steve's. I do not have the screw-on oil filter. tom ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: ============= Hi, Mark - 40 to 50 psi on the highway when the oil is hot is pretty good. My BJ8 runs at just below 40 on the gauge when hot, and has since the engine rebuild in 1999. I now have 70,000 miles on the engine rebuild and the oil pressure is the same as it was with a fresh engine. At idle (1000 RPM), the pressure when hot can drop down to 20 psi or even lower, with no problems. I have always used Castrol 20W-50 until recently, when I changed to Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20W-50 for the ZDDP content. No change in pressure. I also have a screw-on filter adapter, but it is one of those antiques (1987) from Moss that holds the filter at the same orientation as the original canister. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and engine and am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the highway. The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol 20-50 now since I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for about 300 miles. Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could swap out and test . My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I purchased back in 1998. Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am wondering if this could be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows a screw on filter to be used and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external engine parts are new or rebuilt. Any advise appreciated, Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Mon Aug 2 20:54:06 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 22:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> You might be interested in this web site: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/facts_about_aftermarket_oil_addi.htm Thanks -skip- BJ7, BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Years ago I was at a swap meet and saw a oil treatment product that was being tested. The test was they put there treatment into a 1960's chevrolet engine and ran it for a couple hours they the drained the oil and took the oil pan off the engine and recranked the engine with no oil and they let it run non stop for ten hours mind you with no oil and no oil pan. That sold me. This product is called IXL and you can only order it and you put it in every 40,000 miles or once a year. You don't put more in when you change oil. This additive soaks into all metal moving parts and there is never a dry start up. It can be used in all the following applications. power steering automatic transmissions manual transmissions transfer cases wheel bearing and cv joints 2 cycle engines as well it can be used in conjuction with upto 80 wt lubes. It is also used in tractor hydraulics. I had found in tearing engines down that I used this product in there was no wear to rods , main, or cam bearings. I even run this stuff in my Harley and my lawn Mower. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 20:59:34 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:59:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] OT:Automotive Hydraulic pump advice Message-ID: Hi - I know lots of you are pretty smart around machinery and fleet vehicles - I'd like to find a hydraulic power pump, shaft driven, rated at about 600 - 700 psi. I would use it on my Jag Mk IX, which the rotary vane Burman pump on it is bleeding too much pressure when hot or at idle - it makes the beast hard to drive when parking. It would attach to the back of the Hitachi alternator I have mounted on the car. I don't know anyone who fixes the vanes on these pumps. Any thoughts how to do this? I'm sure something like this is out there in heavy equipment land. Thanks, Alan From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 21:04:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:04:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure', Follow Up In-Reply-To: <001e01cb32a7$d2c1baf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <001e01cb32a7$d2c1baf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: 4 cyl vs 6 cyl ? On Aug 2, 2010 6:04 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: You guys are great. I will sleep a bit better knowing that the oil pressure should be in the OK area at 40 to 50 lbs. I don't know why but the MGs that I have been driving run in the range of 50 to 70 highway speeds. I just figured that this was the acceptable range for all LBCs. I may try Rolands idea on reusing the old pressure spring which I still have stashed away with all the other used parts that I kept. However I bet that project is a real bear to get at compared to doing it on the engine stand. I think I will get the top installed first, ; ) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 3:05 PM Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and > engine > and > am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the > highway. > > The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol > 20-50 now since > I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for > about > 300 miles. > Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could > swap > out and test . > > My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I > purchased back in 1998. > Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am > wondering > if this could > be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows > a > screw on filter to be used > and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external > engine parts are new or rebuilt. > > Any advise appreciated, Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 21:05:00 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:05:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> Message-ID: You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. What is high potency zinc? How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? Rick On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:54 PM, Skip Saunders wrote: > You might be interested in this web site: > > > http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/facts_about_aftermarket_oil_addi.htm > > Thanks > -skip- > BJ7, BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:34 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives > > Years ago I was at a swap meet and saw a oil treatment product that was > being tested. The test was they put there treatment into a 1960's chevrolet > engine and ran it for a couple hours they the drained the oil and took the > oil pan off the engine and recranked the engine with no oil and they let it > run non stop for ten hours mind you with no oil and no oil pan. That sold > me. This product is called IXL and you can only order it and you put it in > every 40,000 miles or once a year. You don't put more in when you change > oil. This additive soaks into all metal moving parts and there is never a > dry start up. It can be used in all the following applications. > power steering > automatic transmissions > manual transmissions > transfer cases > wheel bearing and cv joints > 2 cycle engines as well > it can be used in conjuction with upto 80 wt lubes. It is also used in > tractor hydraulics. > I had found in tearing engines down that I used this product in there was > no > wear to rods , main, or cam bearings. I even run this stuff in my Harley > and > my lawn Mower. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 21:11:09 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:11:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT:Automotive Hydraulic pump advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Can you rebuild the pump you have? Rotary pumps are dirt simple inside. On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:59 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hi - > > I know lots of you are pretty smart around machinery and fleet vehicles - > > I'd like to find a hydraulic power pump, shaft driven, rated at about 600 - > 700 psi. I would use it on my Jag Mk IX, which the rotary vane Burman pump > on it is bleeding too much pressure when hot or at idle - it makes the > beast > hard to drive when parking. It would attach to the back of the Hitachi > alternator I have mounted on the car. I don't know anyone who fixes the > vanes on these pumps. > > Any thoughts how to do this? I'm sure something like this is out there in > heavy equipment land. > > Thanks, > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Aug 2 21:15:06 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:15:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Message-ID: <910824.5290.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Drat! I hit send again before I was done. Fat fingers. Small iPhone. Picking up from where I left off... My car is fresh out of the barn without a rebuild. I run 60# cold and 25-30# hot. I took it to my mechanic and he wrapped on the pressure gauge and pronounced it sluggish. It would go down to 25# at a very low idle and continue to read low because it was stuck. You might want to raise the rpms a bit after a low idle, give it a wrap and see if it's sluggish. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 2 21:18:43 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2010 23:18:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> Message-ID: <02ed01cb32ba$949d1720$bdd74560$@verizon.net> Take a look at: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ And then go to the forum on that site if you want to know all about oil. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 11:05 PM To: Skip Saunders Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Frederich Ficke Subject: Re: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. What is high potency zinc? How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? Rick On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:54 PM, Skip Saunders wrote: > You might be interested in this web site: > > > http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/facts_about_aftermarket_oil_ad > di.htm > > Thanks > -skip- > BJ7, BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:34 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 21:20:04 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 11:20:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] OT:Automotive Hydraulic pump advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The pump's rotor is 4 bladed, machined on the shaft. The vane is 5 blades. Not sure how I'd go about getting the vanes build up and re machined... On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:11 AM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Can you rebuild the pump you have? Rotary pumps are dirt simple inside. > > On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:59 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> Hi - >> >> I know lots of you are pretty smart around machinery and fleet vehicles - >> >> I'd like to find a hydraulic power pump, shaft driven, rated at about 600 >> - >> 700 psi. I would use it on my Jag Mk IX, which the rotary vane Burman >> pump >> on it is bleeding too much pressure when hot or at idle - it makes the >> beast >> hard to drive when parking. It would attach to the back of the Hitachi >> alternator I have mounted on the car. I don't know anyone who fixes the >> vanes on these pumps. >> >> Any thoughts how to do this? I'm sure something like this is out there in >> heavy equipment land. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Alan >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From jagwarman at gmail.com Mon Aug 2 22:00:42 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 00:00:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: well i have read these articals and am still amazed at what I saw on the test running a dry engine for so many hours. If it hadn't had the additive and the oil had been drained it wouldn't take long to lock that engine up while running with no oil. Since I am a believer tomorrow I am going to put a quart of Dr. pepper in my engine just to see what happens after all it is only about about $4000.00 in machine work and parts to rebuild it. lol From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Aug 2 22:01:07 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 04:01:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_guy?= Message-ID: <20100803040107.29866.qmail@server278.com> just read the forum from the oil guy that john sims recommended. blew away everything i thought i knew about oil. i would like to read another report to confirm the oil guy's thesis. i do not mind paying more for the synthetic oil, but it seems every healey i have seen with synthetic oil leaks excessively. what is the fix for that? modern cars do not use cork and paper gaskets so they have no problem with leaks. any recommendations? hjim From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Mon Aug 2 22:12:28 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 00:12:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: <02ed01cb32ba$949d1720$bdd74560$@verizon.net> References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <02ed01cb32ba$949d1720$bdd74560$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <000801cb32c2$196932c0$4c3b9840$@com> Yes, I should have referenced something more credible...like "bobistheoilguy"... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=9792 76 But the outcome appears to be the same: IXL is not recommended, and the "flea-market-demo" appears to be debunked too.... Anyone interested in more information can surely dive deeper into the internet, but I seem to recall someone telling me: "If it sounds too good to be true, then...." I'm sticking with normal oil change intervals with good quality oils appropriate for my era Healeys. Thanks -skip- BJ7, BJ8 In any case, I agree, the AMSOIL site is good for a grin... -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 11:19 PM To: 'Richard Ewald'; 'Skip Saunders' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; 'Frederich Ficke' Subject: RE: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Take a look at: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ And then go to the forum on that site if you want to know all about oil. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 11:05 PM To: Skip Saunders Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Frederich Ficke Subject: Re: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. What is high potency zinc? How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? Rick On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 7:54 PM, Skip Saunders wrote: > You might be interested in this web site: > > > http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/facts_about_aftermarket_oil_ad > di.htm > > Thanks > -skip- > BJ7, BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:34 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Mon Aug 2 22:29:37 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 00:29:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cb32c4$7c81eee0$7585cca0$@com> Dr Pepper...lol.. (one of the things I like about this forum is everyone's sense of humor...) I would agree, the flea-market demonstration is certainly attention grabbing... but then, the huckster has the advantage in those kinds of demonstration... and if the flea-market demo isn't dramatic, then they can't get sales, so they are usually designed to be dramatic. ( I remember buying a "Ginzo Knive" because the demonstration guy could really cut up carrots swiftly....turns out the knife works, but my carrot cutting dexterity still has not achieved his levels of performance...:-) ) Thanks -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frederich Ficke Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 12:01 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives well i have read these articals and am still amazed at what I saw on the test running a dry engine for so many hours. If it hadn't had the additive and the oil had been drained it wouldn't take long to lock that engine up while running with no oil. Since I am a believer tomorrow I am going to put a quart of Dr. pepper in my engine just to see what happens after all it is only about about $4000.00 in machine work and parts to rebuild it. lol _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at mindspring.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 2 23:59:35 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 07:59:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001f01cb3275$abf406d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C57B047.1030309@chello.nl> Sounds quite normal for this car. These engines do not normally run very high oil pressures. Kees Oudesluijs NL Mark LaPierre wrote: > I have clocked about 400 miles since a complete overhaul on my car and engine > and > am experiencing some pretty low oil pressure at 40 to 50 pounds on the > highway. > > The car runs smooth, idles well, no oil leaks (yet) , I am using Castrol > 20-50 now since > I changed from the Valvoline 20-50 plus a break in oil , which I ran for about > 300 miles. > Changing the oil made no difference. I do have other gauges that I could swap > out and test . > > My main thought is that I am using a Moss spin on oil filter adaptor that I > purchased back in 1998. > Seems to me there were some issues with some of these units and I am wondering > if this could > be the cause of low oil pressure. This is the one piece unit that allows a > screw on filter to be used > and the filter sticks straight out from the engine. All internal/external > engine parts are new or rebuilt. > > Any advise appreciated, Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3044 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/10 20:40:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 3 01:45:46 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 09:45:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C57C92A.8090003@chello.nl> Bullocks!! Kees Oudesluijs Frederich Ficke wrote: > Years ago I was at a swap meet and saw a oil treatment product that was > being tested. The test was they put there treatment into a 1960's chevrolet > engine and ran it for a couple hours they the drained the oil and took the > oil pan off the engine and recranked the engine with no oil and they let it > run non stop for ten hours mind you with no oil and no oil pan. That sold > me. This product is called IXL and you can only order it and you put it in > every 40,000 miles or once a year. You don't put more in when you change > oil. This additive soaks into all metal moving parts and there is never a > dry start up. It can be used in all the following applications. > power steering > automatic transmissions > manual transmissions > transfer cases > wheel bearing and cv joints > 2 cycle engines as well > it can be used in conjuction with upto 80 wt lubes. It is also used in > tractor hydraulics. > I had found in tearing engines down that I used this product in there was no > wear to rods , main, or cam bearings. I even run this stuff in my Harley and > my lawn Mower. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3044 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/10 20:40:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 3 01:59:45 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 09:59:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] oil guy In-Reply-To: <20100803040107.29866.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100803040107.29866.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4C57CC71.50106@chello.nl> Rebuild your engine first with proper gaskets and seals and than use synthetic oil if you must. But what is the point? These engines are mostly designed for mineral 20W50 and they run perfectly well on that. Kees Oudesluijs NL healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > just read the forum from the oil guy that john sims recommended. blew away everything i thought i knew about oil. i would like to read another report to confirm the oil guy's thesis. i do not mind paying more for the synthetic oil, but it seems every healey i have seen with synthetic oil leaks excessively. what is the fix for that? modern cars do not use cork and paper gaskets so they have no problem with leaks. any recommendations? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3044 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/10 20:40:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 3 06:01:48 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 05:01:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Powertune Brake Booster Message-ID: <584075.55770.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Getting ready to install a new powertune brake booster any one elae do one and possibly have any pics of the install read alot of confusing articles on the web is there something about the position thats important also the mounting brackets From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Aug 3 07:30:39 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:30:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: I'd like to remind you all of Mike Salter's experience with Valvoline racing oil in the Targa Newfoundland. My memory of the exact details is vague, but essentially, after knocking a hole in the sump and losing all his oil, he drove for a number of miles under competition conditions, and didn't seem to do any damage....maybe he will pipe in with the full story! Stephen, BJ8 From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Aug 3 07:32:46 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:32:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: .....I think you mean "Bollocks!".....? Stephen Bullocks!! Kees Oudesluijs From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 3 07:46:33 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 09:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD01296B93FF99-2190-B3DC@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> If you don't plan on running your engine with out oil & an oil pan, what is the benefit of this additive? Maybe the acid created by the additive helps keep the bearings shinny. Gary From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 3 07:49:46 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 15:49:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C581E7A.8070004@chello.nl> Used DD, Kees Oudesluijs Stephen Hutchings wrote: > .....I think you mean "Bollocks!".....? > Stephen > > > > Bullocks!! > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3046 - datum van uitgifte: 08/02/10 19:59:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 08:53:54 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:53:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FWIW, I witnessed something like this when I was a young pup in the gas station. A buddy of the boss had just bought an old Rambler with a straight 6 for $50. It had a noise in the engine. We listened to it, sounded like it was from the valves, so we pulled the cover. Didn't see anything wrong, so we started it. Still could not localize the noise, so we raised it on the rack, now it sounded like it was from the bottom. So we shut it off drained the oil and pulled the pan. Everything looked OK, so they started the engine. Still could not localize the noise. About that time a string of gas customers came in, and I was busy helping them. When the gas customers finally ran out, I went back into the lube room only to find no Rambler, no boss and no boss's buddy. WTF? I look around and see the oil pan on the ground WTF? Seriously WTF? At this point I am baffled. About 20 minutes later they drove back in. When they could not localize the noise they said what the hell, it's only a $50 dollar car and they drove it to the machine shop to have the machinest listen to it. Number 2 rod bearing was bad. they bought a rod bearing, and a pan gasket and drove the sucker back to the gas station. They installed the bearing, pan and poured the old oil back into the car. It ran for at least 1 more year. Of couse at other times, I have seen engines grenade about 1 second after the oil pressure light went on. YMMV Rick On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 6:30 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I'd like to remind you all of Mike Salter's experience with Valvoline > racing oil in the Targa Newfoundland. My memory of the exact details is > vague, but essentially, after knocking a hole in the sump and losing all his > oil, he drove for a number of miles under competition conditions, and didn't > seem to do any damage....maybe he will pipe in with the full story! > > Stephen, BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 08:58:21 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 07:58:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> Message-ID: <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> Hoo boy. If a little knowledge is a bad thing, a little science is a tarrible thing (as Charles Barkley would say). Amsoil is really reaching here (another reason I prefer Redline). My guess is a lot of the aftermarket products have ZDDP in them, which is a compound of zinc, phosphorous and oxygen. The Amsoil argument seems to be: 1) Head&Shoulders has zinc in it (the active ingredient is a zinc compound). You wouldn't put Head&Shoulders in your engine, would you dummy? 2) Coke has phosphoric acid in it, phosphoric acid is made with phosphorous, you wouldn't put Coke in your engine, would you, idiot (as an aside, phosphoric acid will dissolve rust--it's the active ingredient in Naval Jelly--which is why Coke is sometimes recommended for rust removal)? ZDDP is a very specialized compound, with a proven track record for protecting against metal on metal contact. Both the zinc and phosphorous are required in an exact formulation--putting both Coke and H&S in your engine will not accomplish the same result (and would make you, well, a dummy). Now, whether you think the reduction/removal of ZDDP in engine oil is a crisis or not is another topic we've beaten to death. bs Richard Ewald wrote: > You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. > What is high potency zinc? > How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? > Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? > > Rick > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 09:28:07 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 01:28:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> Message-ID: <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Ok. This is getting confusing... Is it OK with you guys if I just continue to put engine oil (Penrite hpr40) in my Healey; put Rum (Inner Circle) in my coke; and use shampoo (whichever one my lovely hairdresser girlfriend gets me) to wash my hair? ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/08/2010, at 12:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Hoo boy. If a little knowledge is a bad thing, a little science is > a tarrible thing (as Charles Barkley would say). > > Amsoil is really reaching here (another reason I prefer Redline). > My guess is a lot of the aftermarket products have ZDDP in them, > which is a compound of zinc, phosphorous and oxygen. The Amsoil > argument seems to be: > > 1) Head&Shoulders has zinc in it (the active ingredient is a zinc > compound). You wouldn't put Head&Shoulders in your engine, would > you dummy? > > 2) Coke has phosphoric acid in it, phosphoric acid is made with > phosphorous, you wouldn't put Coke in your engine, would you, idiot > (as an aside, phosphoric acid will dissolve rust--it's the active > ingredient in Naval Jelly--which is why Coke is sometimes > recommended for rust removal)? > > ZDDP is a very specialized compound, with a proven track record for > protecting against metal on metal contact. Both the zinc and > phosphorous are required in an exact formulation--putting both Coke > and H&S in your engine will not accomplish the same result (and > would make you, well, a dummy). > > Now, whether you think the reduction/removal of ZDDP in engine oil > is a crisis or not is another topic we've beaten to death. > > > bs > > > Richard Ewald wrote: >> You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. >> What is high potency zinc? >> How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? >> Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? >> From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 09:37:26 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:37:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting Windscreen assebly Message-ID: Team. Some advice please. I have built my (BN4) windscreen and assembled the side pillars to it. Next step is to insert the rubber moulding into the bottom channel before then dropping the whole assembly into the locating holes between wings and shroud. My question regards the surplus length of the rubber moulding at each end. If I trim the excess at each end of the chrome channel then there will be a small gap between the pillar and the rubber seal for water to get through. If I leave the ends protruding then I guess they would have to be dropped down the same holes that the 'legs' go through. That will interfere with the rubber foot pads that sit on top of the wing/shroud, and I'm not sure there is enough room inboard of the legs to allow that. Am I missing a trick? Thanks.................... _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 09:39:17 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 08:39:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jeez, try and keep up. The rum is a fuel additive, the shampoo and coke go in the crankcase, you wash your hair with drain oil, and drink the gasoline. On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Ok. > This is getting confusing... > Is it OK with you guys if I just continue to put engine oil (Penrite hpr40) > in my Healey; put Rum (Inner Circle) in my coke; and use shampoo (whichever > one my lovely hairdresser girlfriend gets me) to wash my hair? > ;-) > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On 04/08/2010, at 12:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hoo boy. If a little knowledge is a bad thing, a little science is a >> tarrible thing (as Charles Barkley would say). >> >> Amsoil is really reaching here (another reason I prefer Redline). My >> guess is a lot of the aftermarket products have ZDDP in them, which is a >> compound of zinc, phosphorous and oxygen. The Amsoil argument seems to be: >> >> 1) Head&Shoulders has zinc in it (the active ingredient is a zinc >> compound). You wouldn't put Head&Shoulders in your engine, would you dummy? >> >> 2) Coke has phosphoric acid in it, phosphoric acid is made with >> phosphorous, you wouldn't put Coke in your engine, would you, idiot (as an >> aside, phosphoric acid will dissolve rust--it's the active ingredient in >> Naval Jelly--which is why Coke is sometimes recommended for rust removal)? >> >> ZDDP is a very specialized compound, with a proven track record for >> protecting against metal on metal contact. Both the zinc and phosphorous >> are required in an exact formulation--putting both Coke and H&S in your >> engine will not accomplish the same result (and would make you, well, a >> dummy). >> >> Now, whether you think the reduction/removal of ZDDP in engine oil is a >> crisis or not is another topic we've beaten to death. >> >> >> bs >> >> >> Richard Ewald wrote: >> >>> You can always rely on Amsoil for a laugh. >>> What is high potency zinc? >>> How is Head and Shoulders like Coke? >>> Coke has zinc in it? Who knew? >>> From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Aug 3 09:44:32 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 11:44:32 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Oil Additives Message-ID: <4a746.65728a7.39899360@aol.com> In a message dated 8/3/10 5:04:19 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > I'm sticking with normal oil change intervals with good quality oils > appropriate for my era Healeys. > Just be sure not to use distilled oil; you need that chlorinated EP additive. For the record, I run Valvoline dino in the Healey and Mobil1 or Redline syn in the much higher revving MGA race car. The Healey oil pressure stays around 40 at speed, and drops to 25 at idle. Always has. Cheers Gary From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Aug 3 09:45:38 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 15:45:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] oil guy In-Reply-To: <20100803040107.29866.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100803040107.29866.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: >> it seems every healey i have seen with synthetic oil leaks excessively. What about the other ones? ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 04:01:07 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] oil guy > > just read the forum from the oil guy that john sims recommended. blew away everything i thought i knew about oil. i would like to read another report to confirm the oil guy's thesis. i do not mind paying more for the synthetic oil, but it seems every healey i have seen with synthetic oil leaks excessively. what is the fix for that? modern cars do not use cork and paper gaskets so they have no problem with leaks. any recommendations? hjim > _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 10:08:32 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:08:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dipstick Message-ID: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The dipstick on our BN2 (100M) bottoms out on the pan--is this normal/typical? TIA, Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 10:30:49 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:30:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dipstick In-Reply-To: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <593599097.936499.1280853049915.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I should add the stick only has a rubber 'hood,' which slides about; i.e. there's no quillion to limit travel. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA The dipstick on our BN2 (100M) bottoms out on the pan--is this normal/typical? TIA, Bob From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 10:44:00 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:44:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash Message-ID: Should my dash be painted before I cover it in vinyl? Should it match the interior or be black? 1960 BT 7 blue over white From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Tue Aug 3 10:49:24 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 11:49:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <047701cb332b$d51737b0$7f45a710$@net> I just striped the vinyl off my BT7. No paint on dash panel. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:44 AM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash Should my dash be painted before I cover it in vinyl? Should it match the interior or be black? 1960 BT 7 blue over white _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 3 10:56:31 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 09:56:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dipstick In-Reply-To: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: YES David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 3, 2010, at 9:08 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The dipstick on our BN2 (100M) bottoms out on the pan--is this > normal/typical? > > TIA, > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 11:06:44 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 10:06:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?BT_7_dash?= Message-ID: <4c584c94.cf0ddf0a.2b0f.14b2@mx.google.com> What color is the covering? Thanks Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Herbert Miller" Date: Tue, Aug 3, 2010 9:49 am Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash To: "'I Erbs'" , "'healey help'" I just striped the vinyl off my BT7. No paint on dash panel. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:44 AM To: healey help Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash Should my dash be painted before I cover it in vinyl? Should it match the interior or be black? 1960 BT 7 blue over white _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 11:09:16 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:09:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dipstick In-Reply-To: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1845151695.934943.1280851712592.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: By design. On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 9:08 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The dipstick on our BN2 (100M) bottoms out on the pan--is this > normal/typical? > > TIA, > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 11:15:44 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:15:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Jeez, try and keep up. > The rum is a fuel additive, the shampoo and coke go in the crankcase, you > wash your hair with drain oil, and *drink the gasoline*. > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Chris Dimmock >wrote: > *Petrola (as in gasoline)Drink Recipe* * * *Courtesy of David Sheppard (British ex-patriot) Mexico City Jaguar Club* * * *Old-fashioned glass with plenty of ice* *1 Serrano pepper* *1 lemon* *2 Shots (3 oz.) Tequila* *5-6 dashes of Maggi Sauce (Worcestershire Sauce)* * * *Squeeze the juice of one lemon in glass full of ice.* * * *Add Tequila. * * * *Rub the Serrano pepper between your hands to bring the oils to the surface. Then lightly cut down the length of the pepper four times and place in the glass.* * * *Add Worcestershire sauce and stir.* * * *Enjoy! Eating the pepper is optional. I personally salt the rim of the glass as in a Margarita.* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 3 11:17:37 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 13:17:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, Strip off the glued vinyl and clean carefully. There's no paint under it. Then carefully apply the vinyl to trim the dash, same colours as the interior. Your Blue/white car should have dark navy interior, therefore dash should be dark navy vinyl. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 12:44 PM To: "healey help" Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash > Should my dash be painted before I cover it in vinyl? Should it match the > interior or be black? > 1960 BT 7 blue over white > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 11:24:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 10:24:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks. Dash has been media blasted, so it is really clean. On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:17 AM, Rich C wrote: > Ira, > > Strip off the glued vinyl and clean carefully. There's no paint under it. > Then carefully apply the vinyl to trim the dash, same colours as the > interior. Your Blue/white car should have dark navy interior, therefore dash > should be dark navy vinyl. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "I Erbs" > Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 12:44 PM > To: "healey help" > > Subject: [Healeys] BT 7 dash > > Should my dash be painted before I cover it in vinyl? Should it match the >> interior or be black? >> 1960 BT 7 blue over white >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net >> > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 11:33:48 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 17:33:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dipstick In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1315639626.941176.1280856828557.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to all who responded--mystery solved. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Tue Aug 3 12:47:34 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 11:47:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? Message-ID: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always installed the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any of you tried that? Jerry BN4 BJ8 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue Aug 3 12:56:35 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 20:56:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? In-Reply-To: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFE04@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Jerry, Does he mask the grill for the paintwork? Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 20:48 An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Betreff: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always installed the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any of you tried that? Jerry BN4 From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 3 13:31:25 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:31:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Message-ID: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, Sept 2010 issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who redid her: Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new 24 Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 14:24:30 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Blue Healey) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 21:24:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting Windscreen assembly - update Message-ID: Team. Not sure if my words painted the picture so I have posted the query on the Forum too with some shots to illustrate. http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72 Thanks......... -----Original Message----- Team. Some advice please. I have built my (BN4) windscreen and assembled the side pillars to it. Next step is to insert the rubber moulding into the bottom channel before then dropping the whole assembly into the locating holes between wings and shroud. My question regards the surplus length of the rubber moulding at each end. If I trim the excess at each end of the chrome channel then there will be a small gap between the pillar and the rubber seal for water to get through. If I leave the ends protruding then I guess they would have to be dropped down the same holes that the 'legs' go through. That will interfere with the rubber foot pads that sit on top of the wing/shroud, and I'm not sure there is enough room inboard of the legs to allow that. Am I missing a trick? Thanks.................... ____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) From CAWS52803 at aol.com Tue Aug 3 15:08:23 2010 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 17:08:23 EDT Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Message-ID: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. Rudy in Lenoir, NC From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Tue Aug 3 15:16:36 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 14:16:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFE04@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFE04@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <78CFCDE8EB6C4EC3941608753FBF5F90@JerryPC> I have seen him do 3 cars but he always paints the cars prior to installing shroud, fendors, etc. -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:56 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > Jerry, > Does he mask the grill for the paintwork? > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo > Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 20:48 > An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Betreff: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > > I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always > installed > the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any of you tried > that? > > Jerry > BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 3 15:31:04 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 14:31:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> References: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> Message-ID: <56EFF6DC-0967-4237-94E3-114A294B6DD3@sbcglobal.net> As far as i know there is only one. We brought it out from Healey Surgeons for the 50th anniversary at Lake Tahoe Open Road in 2002 and it was not is need of any restoration at that time. I even had the honor of being able to drive her from the transporter to inside the casino. We also have some photos of Bic and Mary Healey in the car at the same meet. I believe it was their anniversary. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 3, 2010, at 2:08 PM, CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: > Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce > Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. > > Rudy in Lenoir, NC > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From peter at nosimport.com Tue Aug 3 15:32:21 2010 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 16:32:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> References: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> Message-ID: <201008031432943.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> I just read the article. Same one redone after 20 years. Peter C = At 04:08 PM 8/3/2010, CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: >Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce >Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. > >Rudy in Lenoir, NC From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 3 15:51:49 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 17:51:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> Message-ID: <001401cb3356$144e9750$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Really? Good luck on the wiring, front-end stuff, steering adjustments, etc. There is just too much last minute fiddly stuff that needs to be gotten to , to do it that way. I used that BIG OLD HOLE to do a ton of installs after the shroud was on including getting to the back of some of the shroud screws to put the nuts on if memory serves me. I thinks he's been sippin the Cool Aid, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 2:47 PM Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? >I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always installed > the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any of you tried > that? > > Jerry > BN4 > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 3 15:52:14 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 17:52:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? In-Reply-To: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> Message-ID: <4486026A47AD4549A4F93562CAFD60D5@LIFEBOOK> Jerry, I have never installed the grille into the shroud before installing the shroud on the car. However, it's important to prefit the grille along with final fitting and prep of the panels on the car before painting the panels. That way you know the grille assembly will fit with a minimum of fuss later on when that new fresh paint is there. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jerry Costanzo" Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 2:47 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always > installed > the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any of you tried > that? > > Jerry > BN4 > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 3 16:21:05 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 15:21:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <201008031432943.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> References: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> <201008031432943.SM03956@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <6207E415-B95F-4449-9C9B-786D0404F5CC@sbcglobal.net> I appears the car went up to auction in Texas http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/tag/austin-healey/ David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 3, 2010, at 2:32 PM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > I just read the article. Same one redone after 20 years. > Peter C > = > At 04:08 PM 8/3/2010, CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: >> Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce >> Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. >> >> Rudy in Lenoir, NC > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Tue Aug 3 17:15:53 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:15:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: I have always used the sage advice of my departed father ina ll things mechanical. He was a machinist/tool and die maker that did all his own car repair and maintenance. What was true then is true now. He told once, "if you need to add something to the oil, it's time to rebuild the engine. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Richard Ewald >wrote: > > > Jeez, try and keep up. > > The rum is a fuel additive, the shampoo and coke go in the crankcase, you > > wash your hair with drain oil, and *drink the gasoline*. > > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Chris Dimmock > >wrote: > > > > *Petrola (as in gasoline) Drink Recipe* > > * * > > *Courtesy of David Sheppard (British ex-patriot) Mexico City Jaguar Club* > > * * > > * Old-fashioned glass with plenty of ice* > > *1 Serrano pepper* > > *1 lemon* > > *2 Shots (3 oz.) Tequila* > > *5-6 dashes of Maggi Sauce (Worcestershire Sauce)* > > * * > > *Squeeze the juice of one lemon in glass full of ice.* > > * * > > *Add Tequila. * > > * * > > *Rub the Serrano pepper between your hands to bring the oils to the > surface. > Then lightly cut down the length of the pepper four times and place in the > glass.* > > * * > > *Add Worcestershire sauce and stir.* > > * * > > *Enjoy! Eating the pepper is optional. I personally salt the rim of the > glass as in a Margarita.* From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 17:31:09 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hey Mike , And I've always lived by the adage that adding a quart of oil per week is a lot less expensive than an engine rebuild ;-) Cheers, Curt On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:15 PM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > I have always used the sage advice of my departed father ina ll things > mechanical. He was a machinist/tool and die maker that did all his own car > repair and maintenance. What was true then is true now. He told once, "if > you need to add something to the oil, it's time to rebuild the engine. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Richard Ewald > >wrote: >> >> > Jeez, try and keep up. >> > The rum is a fuel additive, the shampoo and coke go in the crankcase, >> you >> > wash your hair with drain oil, and *drink the gasoline*. >> > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Chris Dimmock > > >wrote: >> > >> >> *Petrola (as in gasoline) Drink Recipe* >> >> * * >> >> *Courtesy of David Sheppard (British ex-patriot) Mexico City Jaguar Club* >> >> * * >> >> * Old-fashioned glass with plenty of ice* >> >> *1 Serrano pepper* >> >> *1 lemon* >> >> *2 Shots (3 oz.) Tequila* >> >> *5-6 dashes of Maggi Sauce (Worcestershire Sauce)* >> >> * * >> >> *Squeeze the juice of one lemon in glass full of ice.* >> >> * * >> >> *Add Tequila. * >> >> * * >> >> *Rub the Serrano pepper between your hands to bring the oils to the >> surface. >> Then lightly cut down the length of the pepper four times and place in the >> glass.* >> >> * * >> >> *Add Worcestershire sauce and stir.* >> >> * * >> >> *Enjoy! Eating the pepper is optional. I personally salt the rim of the >> glass as in a Margarita.* From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Tue Aug 3 17:48:14 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 16:48:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: Funny you should say that. My 2004 Accord LX Coupe is using a quart every 1000 miles. It only has 124K miles on it, but Honda says this acceptable for the VTEC engine. Who are they kidding. I know it is blow by because you can see the black soot in the tail pipe. They just don't want to fix it because I reported it back when it was under warranty at less that 50K miles. I made the last payment on it a few months ago, and yes, adding oil is less expensive than a rebuild or a used low mileage Jap engine replacement. Much preferable than more payments. BTW- I also own a 2004 Honda Civic EX and it does not use ANY oil between oil changes. Go figure. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:31 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Hey Mike , > > And I've always lived by the adage that adding a quart of oil per week is a > lot less expensive than an engine rebuild ;-) > > Cheers, > > Curt > > > > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:15 PM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < > rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > >> I have always used the sage advice of my departed father ina ll things >> mechanical. He was a machinist/tool and die maker that did all his own car >> repair and maintenance. What was true then is true now. He told once, "if >> you need to add something to the oil, it's time to rebuild the engine. >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: >> >>> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Richard Ewald >> >wrote: >>> >>> > Jeez, try and keep up. >>> > The rum is a fuel additive, the shampoo and coke go in the crankcase, >>> you >>> > wash your hair with drain oil, and *drink the gasoline*. >>> > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Chris Dimmock >> > >wrote: >>> > >>> >>> *Petrola (as in gasoline) Drink Recipe* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Courtesy of David Sheppard (British ex-patriot) Mexico City Jaguar >>> Club* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> * Old-fashioned glass with plenty of ice* >>> >>> *1 Serrano pepper* >>> >>> *1 lemon* >>> >>> *2 Shots (3 oz.) Tequila* >>> >>> *5-6 dashes of Maggi Sauce (Worcestershire Sauce)* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Squeeze the juice of one lemon in glass full of ice.* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Add Tequila. * >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Rub the Serrano pepper between your hands to bring the oils to the >>> surface. >>> Then lightly cut down the length of the pepper four times and place in >>> the >>> glass.* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Add Worcestershire sauce and stir.* >>> >>> * * >>> >>> *Enjoy! Eating the pepper is optional. I personally salt the rim of the >>> glass as in a Margarita.* From rjswain at hotmail.com Tue Aug 3 18:07:06 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 00:07:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust and Spring Question Message-ID: I haven't been happy with the fit of the stainless tail pipes on my BN4. They're apparently made by Bell which means they should fit. The build quality is great but I've been messing with the pipes since the spring and nobody can get them right. I'm thinking of going to side exit pipes and could get a shop to fabricate a set for me but I'm wondering if anyone supplies them. I'm not looking for big bore pipes to mate with a big bore muffler but rather the smallish standard size pipes to mate with a standard muffler. Stainless preferred but not necessary. I haven't been able to find a local muffler shop that can bend Healey-size tailpipes. Second question. Can anyone recommend a supplier of rear springs that will last without losing their arch? I have about 20,000 miles on my springs and the top of the rear wheel arches are 26" from the ground, about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than I've read that pre BJ8s should be. Fronts sit at 27 1/2". I could get the springs re-arched if I can find what they should be but the same thing would probably happen again. I should get more than 20,000 miles out of a set of rear springs shouldn't I? Thanks Rick'59 BN4 From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Aug 3 18:16:49 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 20:16:49 EDT Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Message-ID: <98ad4.26924d06.398a0b71@aol.com> I recall Bruce driving Goldie home from Conclave 86 (Cincinnatti) Jim Werner Louisville, KY Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. From tstreeter at twcny.rr.com Tue Aug 3 18:52:24 2010 From: tstreeter at twcny.rr.com (tstreeter at twcny.rr.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 20:52:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 inner body panels Message-ID: <20100804005224.YW2K8.60559.root@hrndva-web11-z02> I have 66 BJ8 in the process of restoration - I have the outer body removed and need to know if there is a process for removing inner body panels and replacing them with the new ones in the correct position/measurements. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated Todd From tstreeter at twcny.rr.com Tue Aug 3 19:00:25 2010 From: tstreeter at twcny.rr.com (tstreeter at twcny.rr.com) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 21:00:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 66 BJ8 engine Message-ID: <20100804010025.E3FNB.60594.root@hrndva-web11-z02> In the process of restoration - was wondering if there were any recommendations on a reputable british machine rebuild shop. I live in upstate NY area but would not mind traveling. Any information would be appreciated Thanks Todd From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 19:04:54 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:04:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 inner body panels In-Reply-To: <20100804005224.YW2K8.60559.root@hrndva-web11-z02> References: <20100804005224.YW2K8.60559.root@hrndva-web11-z02> Message-ID: Todd - >From what I understand this is one of the most difficult and technical things you could ever possibly hope to do on your healey and is best handled by a chassis specialist/welder who is experienced with these cars. If your main issue is just a few spots of rust here and there, I'd focus on doing a patch job here and there rather than attempting to pull the whole kit and kaboodle apart. Best Regards, Alan On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:52 AM, wrote: > I have 66 BJ8 in the process of restoration - I have the outer body removed > and need > to know if there is a process for removing inner body panels and replacing > them with the > new ones in the correct position/measurements. > > Any and all help would be greatly appreciated > > Todd From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 19:06:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:06:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust and Spring Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick - I ordered a set of BJ8 springs from Moss about 10 years ago. They were perfect, and have not lost any arch. If I recall, this is one of the things Moss has sorted out fairly well. Alan On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:07 AM, Rick Swain wrote: > I haven't been happy with the fit of the stainless tail pipes on my BN4. > They're apparently made by Bell which means they should fit. The build > quality > is great but I've been messing with the pipes since the spring and nobody > can > get them right. I'm thinking of going to side exit pipes and could get a > shop > to fabricate a set for me but I'm wondering if anyone supplies them. I'm > not > looking for big bore pipes to mate with a big bore muffler but rather the > smallish standard size pipes to mate with a standard muffler. Stainless > preferred but not necessary. I haven't been able to find a local muffler > shop > that can bend Healey-size tailpipes. > Second question. Can anyone recommend a supplier of rear springs that will > last without losing their arch? I have about 20,000 miles on my springs and > the top of the rear wheel arches are 26" from the ground, about 1" to 1 > 1/2" > lower than I've read that pre BJ8s should be. Fronts sit at 27 1/2". I > could > get the springs re-arched if I can find what they should be but the same > thing > would probably happen again. I should get more than 20,000 miles out of a > set > of rear springs shouldn't I? > Thanks > Rick'59 BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 19:08:09 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 21:08:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> References: <3c139.3cfb127f.3989df47@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C58BD79.4030003@comcast.net> I think that Bruce is scaling back. He had a 100M for sale at The Original British Car Day near Frederick, MD in June. CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: > Is this the second Goldie? The first one I know of was done by Bruce > Phillips of Healey Surgeons in Maryland almost 20 years ago. > > Rudy in Lenoir, NC > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Tue Aug 3 19:40:02 2010 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:40:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak Message-ID: <6D89FDA664D64D2AAA67C29798A0ED31@KeithDell> I have an oil leak on my BN1 which appears to be over the Right hand chassis rail under the cold box It could be from oil getting into cold box through the rocker cover breather pipe it as been suggested my rocker bushes could be worn but when they were assembled there did not appear to be any excessive wear.The tacko drive is leak free No oil is running down the crank case from rocker cover. any other suggestion would be appreciated Regards Keith From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 19:45:04 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 18:45:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 inner body panels In-Reply-To: References: <20100804005224.YW2K8.60559.root@hrndva-web11-z02> Message-ID: Todd, Alan is absolutely correct here. The are very few people capable of doing this type of work, and not every so called body/restoration shop is up to the challenge. Tom Kovacs of Fourintune is one shop that is capable of this type of work, but I also know of an individual who is not a professional restorer who has resurrected a Healey that even Kovacs claimed was un-restorable. It all comes down to accurate measurements patience, which equals time, which equals MONEY when your talking about a professional restorer. Now that's were my friend succeeded where others have failed, he is retired and has the patience the *skill* and the time to do it right. Todd I don't know you our your capabilities, but with all due respect if you have to ask this question, then you are probably not up to the challenge, and it is most likely left to an expert. And not just any restorer... one who has done Healey's in the past is my recommendation. I have judged many a Concours car where the panel fit was atrocious, and the body work of these cars was done by a pro, but in almost every case, they were not Austin Healey specialists. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Todd - > > >From what I understand this is one of the most difficult and technical > things you could ever possibly hope to do on your healey and is best > handled > by a chassis specialist/welder who is experienced with these cars. > > If your main issue is just a few spots of rust here and there, I'd focus on > doing a patch job here and there rather than attempting to pull the whole > kit and kaboodle apart. > > Best Regards, > > Alan > > > On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:52 AM, wrote: > > I have 66 BJ8 in the process of restoration - I have the outer body removed > and need to know if there is a process for removing inner body panels and > replacing them with the new ones in the correct position/measurements. > > Any and all help would be greatly appreciated > > Todd From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Tue Aug 3 20:02:37 2010 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 12:02:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak Message-ID: Sorry that should read left side rail Regards Keith From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 20:20:02 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 21:20:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting Windscreen assembly - update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: alan, remove the side pillars. install windscreen to body seal. each end of seal should be trimmed to fit snuggly against each respective side pillar. this requires some close estimations. install side pillars. finish joints discreetly, as needed, with some black silicone seal. good luck!! cheers, jerry On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 3:24 PM, Blue Healey wrote: > Team. > Not sure if my words painted the picture so I have posted the query on the > Forum too with some shots to illustrate. > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72 > > Thanks......... > -----Original Message----- > Team. > Some advice please. I have built my (BN4) windscreen and assembled the > side pillars to it. Next step is to insert the rubber moulding into > the bottom channel before then dropping the whole assembly into the > locating holes between wings and shroud. > My question regards the surplus length of the rubber moulding at each > end. If I trim the excess at each end of the chrome channel then > there will be a small gap between the pillar and the rubber seal for > water to get through. If I leave the ends protruding then I guess they > would have to be dropped down the same holes that the 'legs' go > through. That will interfere with the rubber foot pads that sit on top > of the wing/shroud, and I'm not sure there is enough room inboard of > the legs to allow that. > > Am I missing a trick? > > Thanks.................... > ____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 3 20:28:16 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 19:28:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oil leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C58D040.2020601@comcast.net> Couple SWAGS: - there's a cover (blanking) plate for the hole where an engine-driven fuel pump would go; it could be leaking - the sump draft tube vents to that side; you could be dumping oil overboard (is the sump overfilled?) - the tappet covers are on that side; could be a leak around the edges or around the bolts bs Keith Bailey wrote: > Sorry that should read left side rail > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Aug 3 21:27:54 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:27:54 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak In-Reply-To: <6D89FDA664D64D2AAA67C29798A0ED31@KeithDell> References: <6D89FDA664D64D2AAA67C29798A0ED31@KeithDell> Message-ID: <80E07BE6F3C8462ABE228187B719F981@Notebook> Hi Keith I've had a similar problem on the Ward Spl motor - first thought it was the tacho drive (mine's electronic so this was "open") - put cap on that, no change. Then went to sideplate - replaced gasket and used sealant - no change. Cleaned up block thoroughly & watched for dribble of oil - appears to be coming from large plug at bottom of block casting for oil pump/tacho drive (shown as item 28 on p D/21 of workshop manual, and item 97 on p 1.13 of SC Parts catalogue - plug- distributor & oil pump spindle bore). This has a sealing ring under it. I haven't tried doing anything with this yet as it's hard to get at with engine in car. I do get a few drips from the breather pipe too. Cheers Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Bailey" Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:40 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak > I have an oil leak on my BN1 which appears to be over the Right hand > chassis > rail under the cold box > It could be from oil getting into cold box through the rocker cover > breather > pipe it as been suggested > my rocker bushes could be worn but when they were assembled there did not > appear to be any excessive > wear.The tacko drive is leak free No oil is running down the crank case > from > rocker cover. > any other suggestion would be appreciated > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 3 21:57:37 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 23:57:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hemmings motor news Message-ID: Does anyone have any old Hemmings Motor news magazines form 1994 or so? I bought my car out of Hemmings from an ad for a 100-6 and a 100-6 parts car out of the Reading, Pennsylvania area ($1,000.00 for the parts car). I bought the parts car. I believe it was Nov or Dec of 1994, but I could be wrong- maybe 1993 or maybe even 1995- but I know I brought it home in December so the ad had to be Nov. or Dec. I always wanted to try and find the ad (copy) that I bought it from. Thanks for the help. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From jagwarman at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 22:13:17 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 00:13:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: I am confused about this concours judging. Isn't the car suppose to reflect as it was when new fresh from the factory. If so why are these high quality paint jobs allowed when cars of the 50's and 60's never had that quality of paint when new? I look at it realistically you can restore a car to better than new appearance however , it is only new once. Also the person restoring the classic and putting chalk marks and such where they would have been when going thru the inspection process while being on assembly line is not the same as a restorer duplicating the marks. I guess I am looking for clarification as to how this judging really works . It just seems as though these cars that win are way over the top as to what they were really like when they were new. From jagwarman at gmail.com Tue Aug 3 22:45:57 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 00:45:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives Message-ID: I look at these additives from the aspect of years of building engines. The technology was there in the 1960's that we have today. I know duhh but anyway . The old Healey motors are built loose a lot looser than todays engines and if you keep in mind with british cars SU carbs always dump some fuel into the crankcase from choking to start the cars. What good does that do your oil or the life of your bearings. About 60% of your oil pressure readings comes from your cam bearings . and then your mains and rods. I read these articals you all have provided but all it really is one company debunking another because the believe theres are better. Here is another fact from experience you can assemble an engine with many various lubes from straight engine oil on the bearings to lithium grease to STP that looks like cold glue running out of a can. Which of these three is going build oil pressure faster on that fresh engine first start and which of these products is going to stay on the bearing the longest while that engine is trying to build oil pressure. Now of course in todays engine building we have to use lithium grease otherwise called assembly lube because clearences have been greatly reduced in the bearing areas. This is why new cars are running oil such 15 wt 30 or 5 30 wt.Just for grins i wanted to see what putting 20 50 castrol would do to oil pressure in a 2006 ford focus that normally runs 5 30 wt oil. A buddy let me do this in a wrecking yard due to the car being a roll over and the car had about 35000 miles on it. it took 20 minutes for the engine to seize because the oil was to thick to get between the bearings and the crankshaft. My point to all this is just from experience changing oil is the longevity of any engine but on these old british cars I believe it helps to use the additives especially since the oil gets thinned down due to fuel getting into the crankcase. One other issue new car makers suggest 5000 miles interval oil changes or some even say 7500 miles . Auto makers want you to think your saving money by not changing your oil like we use to at 2500 miles but in reality if you took a new car and changed oil at 2500 miles religously it would last for ever. I bougth a new Dodge dually in 1995 with the cummins diesel I now have 640,000 miles on the engine with no repairs or tear downs and to this day it still uses no oil at 2500 mile changes and it doesn't even look dirty at 2500 miles. Just my thoughts on all this additives. Now everyone can starting beating me up again From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 00:34:23 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 08:34:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? In-Reply-To: <78CFCDE8EB6C4EC3941608753FBF5F90@JerryPC> References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFE04@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <78CFCDE8EB6C4EC3941608753FBF5F90@JerryPC> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFEEE@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> That seems to be not very professionell. How he treats the imperfections and lining up of the panels? -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 23:17 An: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? I have seen him do 3 cars but he always paints the cars prior to installing shroud, fendors, etc. -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:56 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > Jerry, > Does he mask the grill for the paintwork? > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo > Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 20:48 > An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Betreff: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > > I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always > installed the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any > of you tried that? > > Jerry > BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 4 00:54:54 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 08:54:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C590EBE.4010103@chello.nl> Mike, The oil is probably forced passed the valve guides. Have a look at the crank case ventilation system. It may have a blockage or malfunctioning valve some where, causing oil consumption, although a quarter of a pint every 1000 mls is not that bad, only 1 pint every oil change. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote: > Funny you should say that. My 2004 Accord LX Coupe is using a quart every > 1000 miles. It only has 124K miles on it, but Honda says this acceptable > for the VTEC engine. Who are they kidding. I know it is blow by because > you can see the black soot in the tail pipe. They just don't want to fix it > because I reported it back when it was under warranty at less that 50K > miles. I made the last payment on it a few months ago, and yes, adding oil > is less expensive than a rebuild or a used low mileage Jap engine > replacement. Much preferable than more payments. BTW- I also own a 2004 > Honda Civic EX and it does not use ANY oil between oil changes. Go figure. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:31 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 01:14:31 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 00:14:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives In-Reply-To: <4C590EBE.4010103@chello.nl> References: <000401cb32b7$23940be0$6abc23a0$@com> <4C582E8D.9070409@comcast.net> <55012151-0E5A-4B64-BB47-B96669A43784@gmail.com> <4C590EBE.4010103@chello.nl> Message-ID: VW told 1+ quart per oil change was within spec!!! On my 2001 new beetle. Wow never gonna buy another vw again I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 3, 2010, at 11:54 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Mike, > The oil is probably forced passed the valve guides. Have a look at the > crank case ventilation system. It may have a blockage or > malfunctioning > valve some where, causing oil consumption, although a quarter of a > pint > every 1000 mls is not that bad, only 1 pint every oil change. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote: >> Funny you should say that. My 2004 Accord LX Coupe is using a >> quart every >> 1000 miles. It only has 124K miles on it, but Honda says this >> acceptable >> for the VTEC engine. Who are they kidding. I know it is blow by >> because >> you can see the black soot in the tail pipe. They just don't want >> to fix it >> because I reported it back when it was under warranty at less that >> 50K >> miles. I made the last payment on it a few months ago, and yes, >> adding oil >> is less expensive than a rebuild or a used low mileage Jap engine >> replacement. Much preferable than more payments. BTW- I also own >> a 2004 >> Honda Civic EX and it does not use ANY oil between oil changes. Go >> figure. >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 4:31 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt >> wrote: > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 01:16:17 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:16:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Frederich, Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European side of the pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the Austin-Healey cars were produced. Or let me say it differently. Marilyn Monroe was an icon in her days. I am sure she would never become an icon these days, as our human beings taste changed over the last 50 years. We get cars in for Concours which are much better in quality and better assembled than any car which left the production line. If you put two cars together, one completely as it left the factory, the other the restorer spent mega hours in getting the door gaps right, panels aligned and has got a much better paintwork and both receive the same amount of points in Concours? Anyone watching the outcome would not understand why both received same amount of points or better, the very original factory car receives even more points because of its "factory standard imperfections". So we use our "today's taste" as the measure. We think that's the best way. One can argue we do not follow the Holy Bible of Concours, but even the highest priests in any of this worlds churches cannot stop the time from moving and have to accept the world is changing (even they do not want ). Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Frederich Ficke Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. August 2010 06:13 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] concours judging I am confused about this concours judging. Isn't the car suppose to reflect as it was when new fresh from the factory. If so why are these high quality paint jobs allowed when cars of the 50's and 60's never had that quality of paint when new? I look at it realistically you can restore a car to better than new appearance however , it is only new once. Also the person restoring the classic and putting chalk marks and such where they would have been when going thru the inspection process while being on assembly line is not the same as a restorer duplicating the marks. I guess I am looking for clarification as to how this judging really works . It just seems as though these cars that win are way over the top as to what they were really like when they were new. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 01:08:28 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 15:08:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frederich - you could also say that about the factory oil leaks off the showroom floor! Alan On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 12:13 PM, Frederich Ficke wrote: > I am confused about this concours judging. Isn't the car suppose to reflect > as it was when new fresh from the factory. If so why are these high quality > paint jobs allowed when cars of the 50's and 60's never had that quality of > paint when new? > > I look at it realistically you can restore a car to better than new > appearance however , it is only new once. Also the person restoring the > classic and putting chalk marks and such where they would have been when > going thru the inspection process while being on assembly line is not the > same as a restorer duplicating the marks. > > I guess I am looking for clarification as to how this judging really works > . > It just seems as though these cars that win are way over the top as to what > they were really like when they were new. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 4 02:25:51 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 10:25:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> Josef, Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) with all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points deducted and loose the competition to an over restored car? Kees Oudesluijs NL Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > Frederich, > Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European side of the > pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. > Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the Austin-Healey > cars were produced. Or let me say it differently. Marilyn Monroe was an icon > in her days. I am sure she would never become an icon these days, as our human > beings taste changed over the last 50 years. We get cars in for Concours which > are much better in quality and better assembled than any car which left the > production line. If you put two cars together, one completely as it left the > factory, the other the restorer spent mega hours in getting the door gaps > right, panels aligned and has got a much better paintwork and both receive the > same amount of points in Concours? Anyone watching the outcome would not > understand why both received same amount of points or better, the very > original factory car receives even more points because of its "factory > standard imperfections". > So we use our "today's taste" as the measure. We think that's the best way. > One can argue we do not follow the Holy Bible of Concours, but even the > highest priests in any of this worlds churches cannot stop the time from > moving and have to accept the world is changing (even they do not want ). > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 02:37:22 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 10:37:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D11300182@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Kees, When I am judging, uneven gaps means points deducted! Now what is an over restored car? For example, when the car has items chromed, which were not chromed by the factory, it gets also points deducted! So at the end it depends on the cars, which gets the winner in competition. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. August 2010 10:26 An: Eckert, Josef Cc: jagwarman at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] concours judging Josef, Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) with all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points deducted and loose the competition to an over restored car? Kees Oudesluijs NL Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > Frederich, > Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European side > of the pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. > Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the > Austin-Healey cars were produced. Or let me say it differently. > Marilyn Monroe was an icon in her days. I am sure she would never > become an icon these days, as our human beings taste changed over the > last 50 years. We get cars in for Concours which are much better in > quality and better assembled than any car which left the production > line. If you put two cars together, one completely as it left the > factory, the other the restorer spent mega hours in getting the door > gaps right, panels aligned and has got a much better paintwork and > both receive the same amount of points in Concours? Anyone watching > the outcome would not understand why both received same amount of > points or better, the very original factory car receives even more points because of its "factory standard imperfections". > So we use our "today's taste" as the measure. We think that's the best way. > One can argue we do not follow the Holy Bible of Concours, but even > the highest priests in any of this worlds churches cannot stop the > time from moving and have to accept the world is changing (even they do not want ). > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 4 03:19:17 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 11:19:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D11300182@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D11300182@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <4C593095.1080803@chello.nl> Hmmm, Strange judging from you nit pickers on originality. It cannot be better (more original) than a car as it left the factory in perfect as new condition, still an over restored vehicle will run away with the prizes!! I do not understand this. What is over restored? That everything is perfect when originally things were not. E.g. even gaps, brilliant shiny paint because of use of clear lacker, perfectly fitting interior panels, stainless steel bolts in stead of zinc or non-plated ones etc. The points deducted on extra chrome etc. I understand and looks perfectly legitimate to me. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > Kees, > When I am judging, uneven gaps means points deducted! > Now what is an over restored car? For example, when the car has items chromed, which were not chromed by the factory, it gets also points deducted! > So at the end it depends on the cars, which gets the winner in competition. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > Josef, > Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) with all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points deducted and loose the competition to an over restored car? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 4 04:53:48 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 06:53:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com><4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl><50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D11300182@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C593095.1080803@chello.nl> Message-ID: <001001cb33c3$51cf4ad0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> And the infamous Concours debate continues. Any points added for weather or not the car runs or would that be a deduction? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 5:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging > Hmmm, > Strange judging from you nit pickers on originality. > It cannot be better (more original) than a car as it left the factory in > perfect as new condition, still an over restored vehicle will run away > with the prizes!! I do not understand this. > What is over restored? That everything is perfect when originally things > were not. E.g. even gaps, brilliant shiny paint because of use of clear > lacker, perfectly fitting interior panels, stainless steel bolts in > stead of zinc or non-plated ones etc. > The points deducted on extra chrome etc. I understand and looks > perfectly legitimate to me. > Cheers, > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> Kees, >> When I am judging, uneven gaps means points deducted! >> Now what is an over restored car? For example, when the car has items >> chromed, which were not chromed by the factory, it gets also points >> deducted! >> So at the end it depends on the cars, which gets the winner in >> competition. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany >> >> >> >> Josef, >> Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new >> original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) >> with all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points >> deducted and loose the competition to an over restored car? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From CAWS52803 at aol.com Wed Aug 4 05:18:33 2010 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 07:18:33 EDT Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <5c491.491cb858.398aa689@aol.com> When I judged at Lime Rock Fall Festival, I did a series of cars, so exact knowledge was impossible, but with Healeys, if the bolt was stainless steel, it was a deduction. On a side note, I observed one owner Armour Alling his tires. I asked him if the car came from the factory that way and of course he said 'No'. I implied that it would be a deduction and he turned white! I let it go as everyone was doing the same to their tires. Rudy in Lenoir BN4 & AN5 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 06:32:19 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 14:32:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F99B0@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Kees, You should not believe the finest Concours car is one left in a barn for the past 40-50 years after the one and only drive from the dealers showroom. Let me go back to Concours and what's all behind. Why are we doing Concours Competitions? For me the main reason is to attract restorers to finish their cars close to original factory specification to "keep the legend alive and look like it should". As long as I am judging Healeys, I never had an unrestored car to judge. So we can assume 100% of the Austin-Healeys in Concours are restored cars. So its to mark the cars and identify the ones which are closest to factory (specs ) appearance. With our Concours Competitions we want to attract the owners to do a "proper" restoration following our "Concours Rules", which means for standard class - as near as possible to the specification it left the factory. "There is no specification for uneven gaps". When judging, I allow me to honour when one has not followed all shortcomings which were done by the factory because of keeping production costs low. There is a second point. We have professional car restorers who like to bring their finished cars for Concours having their business in mind. To say private restored cars are usually of a higher quality (closer to detail, more time spent for proper panel alignments etc.) and we want to keep Concours to enthusiasts and not as a sales argument for professional restorers. Hope you see there is much more around Concours than just keeping a car as close as possible to factory specs. At National Concours we have a real serious problem, a different one to face. In our Concours Rules its stated the cars which go into Concours have to be driven on their own wheels to the event, not trailered. We are sure at previous events, the one or other car was trailered to a place close to the event and only did let me say the final 10 miles on its own. Even by asking the owners for the cars trip meter mileages when they book in and checking their MOT certificate where the mileage is also stated, we still expect some fraud. To have the "perfect" car in Concours and it comes out as a non winner is a problem we will never face. To finalize, if a car shows up with "gap problems" there are many more other problem areas on the same car Josef Eckert From alexmm at roadrunner.com Wed Aug 4 06:33:21 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 08:33:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] synthetic or oil additives References: Message-ID: <2A1D724AE68E4CE795E12B9C5A972E76@atc0f226cd3237> With all this talk of oil additives, what's the consensus (if any) on a fuel additive such as Marvel Mystery Oil (at a rate of 4 ozs./10 gallons of petrol)? == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From jagwarman at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 07:05:26 2010 From: jagwarman at gmail.com (Frederich Ficke) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:05:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: I appreciate all the info on the judging. I guess I grew up with great cars . I remember Dad having Jags he had a 37 ss100 roadster and 120's and 140' and 150. Shoot we had everything It was the 1960 and early 70's when these cars were not worth todays values but mind you to buy a ss 100 jag for 7500.00 in 1972 that was a lot of money. I guess I just love to enjoy the car and the drive. Many people say you need to restore your Healey and I always stop and reflect back to what I have done in the past. Once I got done restoring the car was no longer fun cause I worried all the time if it would get scratched or dented or stolen. so I just no lnger worry about it. One day some of you guy will see me at a show just driving my car and I would surely win the ugly car award. but thats okay I wouldn't have it any other way. From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Aug 4 07:07:04 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 9:07:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <5c491.491cb858.398aa689@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100804090705.CS30I.30953.root@pamxwww01-z01> All of this discussion reinforces my reason for never having my car judged in concour. YMMV, of course. tom ---- CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: ============= When I judged at Lime Rock Fall Festival, I did a series of cars, so exact knowledge was impossible, but with Healeys, if the bolt was stainless steel, it was a deduction. On a side note, I observed one owner Armour Alling his tires. I asked him if the car came from the factory that way and of course he said 'No'. I implied that it would be a deduction and he turned white! I let it go as everyone was doing the same to their tires. Rudy in Lenoir BN4 & AN5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 07:15:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 21:15:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <001001cb33c3$51cf4ad0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D11300182@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C593095.1080803@chello.nl> <001001cb33c3$51cf4ad0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark - If it's an Austin 1100 automatic I believe it should get full Concours points if it has the factory correct non-running feature, as typically received by the client from the showroom floor. Alan On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 6:53 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > And the infamous Concours debate continues. > > Any points added for weather or not the car runs or would that be a > deduction? > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 5:19 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging > > > Hmmm, >> Strange judging from you nit pickers on originality. >> It cannot be better (more original) than a car as it left the factory in >> perfect as new condition, still an over restored vehicle will run away >> with the prizes!! I do not understand this. >> What is over restored? That everything is perfect when originally things >> were not. E.g. even gaps, brilliant shiny paint because of use of clear >> lacker, perfectly fitting interior panels, stainless steel bolts in >> stead of zinc or non-plated ones etc. >> The points deducted on extra chrome etc. I understand and looks >> perfectly legitimate to me. >> Cheers, >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> >>> Kees, >>> When I am judging, uneven gaps means points deducted! >>> Now what is an over restored car? For example, when the car has items >>> chromed, which were not chromed by the factory, it gets also points >>> deducted! >>> So at the end it depends on the cars, which gets the winner in >>> competition. >>> >>> Josef Eckert >>> Konigswinter/Germany >>> >>> >>> >>> Josef, >>> Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new >>> original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) with >>> all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points deducted and >>> loose the competition to an over restored car? >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> NL >>> >> >> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name >> of coudesluijs.vcf] >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 07:19:09 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 06:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> Message-ID: <86F286AE-CAC0-4FD0-8EC2-AF85B9E9FADB@gmail.com> I believe Pebble Beach has a catagory for original unrestored cars to address this issue. Its a beauty contest. My wife is an original unrestored beauty, not an overly made up pampered contestant I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 4, 2010, at 1:25 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Josef, > Is not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new > original car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) > with all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points > deducted and loose the competition to an over restored car? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> Frederich, >> Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European >> side of the >> pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. >> Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the >> Austin-Healey >> cars were produced. Or let me say it differently. Marilyn Monroe >> was an icon >> in her days. I am sure she would never become an icon these days, >> as our human >> beings taste changed over the last 50 years. We get cars in for >> Concours which >> are much better in quality and better assembled than any car which >> left the >> production line. If you put two cars together, one completely as it >> left the >> factory, the other the restorer spent mega hours in getting the >> door gaps >> right, panels aligned and has got a much better paintwork and both >> receive the >> same amount of points in Concours? Anyone watching the outcome >> would not >> understand why both received same amount of points or better, the >> very >> original factory car receives even more points because of its >> "factory >> standard imperfections". >> So we use our "today's taste" as the measure. We think that's the >> best way. >> One can argue we do not follow the Holy Bible of Concours, but even >> the >> highest priests in any of this worlds churches cannot stop the time >> from >> moving and have to accept the world is changing (even they do not >> want ). >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 4 07:27:36 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:27:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD01EFEFCF64F6-F00-D5EB@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Frederich, I don't think I understand your comment. How is that different from the "factory" painting the car & the restorer painting the car? Also the person restoring the lassic and putting chalk marks and such where they would have been when oing thru the inspection process while being on assembly line is not the ame as a restorer duplicating the marks. From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 4 07:35:50 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:35:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> In North America the cars are not competing against each other. They are being judged to a set of standards. It is possible for several cars to all achieve the same level, for instance "Gold" level. Their individual scores are revealed only to the individual entering the car, not each other nor the general public. That is as I understand it. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net; jagwarman at gmail.com Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2010 3:25 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging Josef, s not that odd. What you are saying is that theoretically a brand new riginal car (if it exists but I am sure there must be one somewhere) ith all it original short comings like uneven gaps will get points educted and loose the competition to an over restored car? ees Oudesluijs L Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: Frederich, Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European side of the pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the Austin-Healey cars were produced. Or let me say it differently. Marilyn Monroe was an icon in her days. I am sure she would never become an icon these days, as our human beings taste changed over the last 50 years. We get cars in for Concours which are much better in quality and better assembled than any car which left the production line. If you put two cars together, one completely as it left the factory, the other the restorer spent mega hours in getting the door gaps right, panels aligned and has got a much better paintwork and both receive the same amount of points in Concours? Anyone watching the outcome would not understand why both received same amount of points or better, the very original factory car receives even more points because of its "factory standard imperfections". So we use our "today's taste" as the measure. We think that's the best way. One can argue we do not follow the Holy Bible of Concours, but even the highest priests in any of this worlds churches cannot stop the time from moving and have to accept the world is changing (even they do not want ). Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of oudesluijs.vcf] ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 4 07:40:06 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 09:40:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD01F1AEEA25A7-F00-D90D@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Sorry if this is a duplicate. Gary -----Original Message----- From: warthodson at aol.com To: coudesluijs at chello.nl; Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net; jagwarman at gmail.com Sent: Wed, Aug 4, 2010 8:35 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging In North America the cars are not competing against each other. They are being judged to a set of standards. It is possible for several cars to all achieve the same level, for instance "Gold" level. Their individual scores are revealed only to the individual entering the car, not each other nor the general public. That is as I understand it. Gary Hodson From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Aug 4 07:59:04 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 15:59:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? Message-ID: Hello, There are 2 dowel bolts to mate the gearbox to the engine - where do they go??.. Many thanks, Tadek From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Aug 4 08:11:17 2010 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 14:11:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <20100804090705.CS30I.30953.root@pamxwww01-z01> References: <5c491.491cb858.398aa689@aol.com><20100804090705.CS30I.30953.root@pamxwww01-z01> Message-ID: <886503005-1280931023-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1139437707-@bda893.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Me either as all my cars are drivers. BUT, I do enter wash and shine events for the more laid back environment and comaraderie (sp) Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 9:07:04 To: ; ; ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging All of this discussion reinforces my reason for never having my car judged in concour. YMMV, of course. tom ---- CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: ============= When I judged at Lime Rock Fall Festival, I did a series of cars, so exact knowledge was impossible, but with Healeys, if the bolt was stainless steel, it was a deduction. On a side note, I observed one owner Armour Alling his tires. I asked him if the car came from the factory that way and of course he said 'No'. I implied that it would be a deduction and he turned white! I let it go as everyone was doing the same to their tires. Rudy in Lenoir BN4 & AN5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 08:12:19 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 00:12:19 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: concours judging In-Reply-To: <5FF7997F-A5AD-4804-B0D6-A6D553B21A89@gmail.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <5FF7997F-A5AD-4804-B0D6-A6D553B21A89@gmail.com> Message-ID: This is just a personal opinion. Firstly, I totally support the concept of a "unified" world standard for Healey concours judging, and have championed that end for over 12 years here in NSW Australia - despite not actually owning a bog standard original car. I truly believe that having a consistent global standard, with consistent judging guidelines, administed by passionate people, with published guidelines, and accepting newly uncovered evidence, and discussing it, and modifying the published guielines,is the ABSOLUTE best outcome for our Marque globally. And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and anyone else - who has conributed to the wonderful resource of concours originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. Our friends in the US have provided that framework. In answer to Josef's question, I've thought long and hard about his question for 30 years. And I'd like to rephrase it, if that's ok Josef. Let's go back to 1953 and talk concours. Imagine it is one or two months after the delivery of the first 100's to your country, in 1953, wherever in the world you are... Imagine that say 2 or 5 or 20 or 50 guys turned up to your 'first' club meeting, in their brand new BN1's, and it was a concours.... And the oldest BN1 was now 30 days old.... In my personal opinion, given that almost every car was "original", I think the "best" car would have theoretically been the one which was driven home from the showroom, and "put together properly" by the owner. And cleaned and scrubbed and polished all over. The guy that fixed and adjusted the door gaps, bonnet gaps, etc, and cleaned off the overspray, and adjusted the bumpers, door openers, etc. And fixed the oil leaks.... And cleaned it until it shone all over The car that actually was 'best built' , or "best put together" amounst a whole pile of brand new cars.. Think about which would have been the "best" car when they were new. Bog standard cars, judged by their peers..... Back in the day. Just my opinion. Me? I'd rather have triple webers, all original numbers, with minilites and heaps of negative camber; yet .... I still run a Lucas generator, Lucas starter motor, and Armstrong lever arm shocks (cause they are original.... And you just don't change things like that!!!) Thanks for the opportunity for my few cents M.J.B, and this resource that allows us to discuss this stuff! Chris www.myaustinhealey.com On 04/08/2010, at 5:16 PM, wrote: > Frederich, > Don't be confused. I am speaking now for Concours on the European side of > the > pond. Members of the US Concours Committee may have a different view. > Our today's standards are much higher than they were when the Austin-Healey > cars were produced. Or let me say it differently........ > > I am confused about this concours judging. From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 08:23:15 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 16:23:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9BE2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Hello Tadek, They go at 5 and 11 o clock position. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Tadeusz Malkiewicz Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. August 2010 15:59 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? Hello, There are 2 dowel bolts to mate the gearbox to the engine - where do they go??.. Many thanks, From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Wed Aug 4 08:42:20 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 07:42:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFEEE@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <7B4020160FB74EBCAFBFF1AC1B8C0F38@JerryPC><50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFE04@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com><78CFCDE8EB6C4EC3941608753FBF5F90@JerryPC> <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFEEE@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <18A24D7695664D7DB5F48CD240181442@JerryPC> One of them sold at Pebble Beach auction for $65K and it was a 100 6 that was black and leaf green. Seems to work for him. -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:34 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > That seems to be not very professionell. How he treats the imperfections > and > lining up of the panels? > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo > Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 23:17 > An: Healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > > I have seen him do 3 cars but he always paints the cars prior to > installing > shroud, fendors, etc. > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 11:56 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? > >> Jerry, >> Does he mask the grill for the paintwork? >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany >> >> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- >> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jerry Costanzo >> Gesendet: Dienstag, 3. August 2010 20:48 >> An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net >> Betreff: [Healeys] Installing the grill with the shroud? >> >> I bought one of my Healeys from a guy who insisted that he always >> installed the grill prior to putting the shroud on the car. Have any >> of you tried that? >> >> Jerry >> BN4 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation >> $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 4 09:02:44 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 15:02:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: So ... you're saying that leaking synthetic oil would be a points deduction? ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 15:08:28 +0800 > > Frederich - > > you could also say that about the factory oil leaks off the showroom floor! > > > Alan > > On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 12:13 PM, Frederich Ficke wrote: > > > I am confused about this concours judging. Isn't the car suppose to reflect > > as it was when new fresh from the factory. If so why are these high quality > > paint jobs allowed when cars of the 50's and 60's never had that quality of > > paint when new? > > > > I look at it realistically you can restore a car to better than new > > appearance however , it is only new once. Also the person restoring the > > classic and putting chalk marks and such where they would have been when > > going thru the inspection process while being on assembly line is not the > > same as a restorer duplicating the marks. > > > > I guess I am looking for clarification as to how this judging really works > > . > > It just seems as though these cars that win are way over the top as to what > > they were really like when they were new. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 09:04:33 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 08:04:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: *Part two continued...* Now to your specific question on paint. Several years ago a fellow Concours committee member was restoring his car and he prepped the body for paint, which was then to be done by a local paint shop. The shop refused to paint the car since they wanted an absolutely perfect surface. Now, the paint prep done on this very original a straight car was perfectly acceptable but what the paint shop wanted was well above and beyond. My friend ended up taking the car to another painter and believe me the final paint and body work were just fine, I should know I was the lead judge on the car and it scored a Concours Gold. Also, remember that modern paints are inherently better than the old cellulose lacquer that was used at the Jensen factory. I brought up Corvettes for a reason since there are at least two different Concours standards for Corvettes, the Corvette Club of America and the Bloomington Gold standard. Bloomington Gold standard came about since these folks are way too anal, and they decided that the other Concours standard was not tough enough. Therefore, they replicate everything as it came from the factory, orange peal in the paint, factory crayon numbers on the chassis frame, etc... and all of the other flaws in a mass produced production car. There was a story circulating several years ago that a wealthy Japanese investor purchased a Bloomington Gold standard Corvette and when he examined the car, he was shocked and wanted his money back since the car wasn't his idea of Concours perfect. Too bad, that's what the Bloomington Gold standard is all about. If we were to adhere to these standards, then the Austin Healey chassis would be first painted in the original "Chocolate Brown" primer, then the body panels hung on the car and only then would the final color paint be applied. This would leave all areas of the chassis under the body panels in this dark brown primer. No one does this nor is it encouraged or recommended, and in fact every single restoration I've seen paints the entire chassis body color. I hope this clarifies things somewhat. Remember that our Concours standards/cars do not include trailer queens as many misinformed folks on this list have accused us of, since we encourage Concours cars to be driven. If a US Concours car is a trailer queen *then that's the choice of the owner and NOT our standards*. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman - AH Concours Committee, USA & Canada Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) PS If you want to know how our Concours works, may I suggest you order our 2010 guidelines. I hope to have a Concours website up soon that will clarify our philosophy. From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 4 09:09:31 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 08:09:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak In-Reply-To: <6D89FDA664D64D2AAA67C29798A0ED31@KeithDell> References: <6D89FDA664D64D2AAA67C29798A0ED31@KeithDell> Message-ID: When there is a leak that is hard to find the location of we use an additive in the oil that will turn the oil bright yellow under ultra violet light. It is available in most auto parts stores. This way you don't waist good time and money repairing leaks that dont exist. The most common leaks on that side of the motor are. Tach drive, fuel pump plate warped, valve cover. I also have had a couple that the engine plate was warped and leaking. So go get a leak detector and find it the first time. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 3, 2010, at 6:40 PM, Keith Bailey wrote: > I have an oil leak on my BN1 which appears to be over the Right > hand chassis > rail under the cold box > It could be from oil getting into cold box through the rocker > cover breather > pipe it as been suggested > my rocker bushes could be worn but when they were assembled there > did not > appear to be any excessive > wear.The tacko drive is leak free No oil is running down the crank > case from > rocker cover. > any other suggestion would be appreciated > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 4 09:21:37 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 08:21:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9BE2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9BE2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <4C598581.3090503@comcast.net> On our BN2, there are milled recesses for bolt heads at the 1 and 7 o'clock position--I figured the dowel bolts went there. If not, why do only these two positions have milled recesses? bs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > Hello Tadek, > They go at 5 and 11 o clock position. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > Betreff: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? > > Hello, > > There are 2 dowel bolts to mate the gearbox to the engine - where do they > go??.. > > Many thanks, > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahstc at live.com Wed Aug 4 09:24:51 2010 From: ahstc at live.com (ahstc at live.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:24:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes by so quickly). Ray -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Dryman" Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again > Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, > Sept 2010 > issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who > redid her: > Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new > 24 > Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 10:12:07 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:12:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary, You understand correctly, but I must clarify something. Cars are judged as to a standard of how they came from the factory, and as far as I and Roger Moment are concerned, our Concours Guidelines are just that... *Guidelines*. We are continuously accused of updating (changing) the standards yearly and presently a moving target. This is just not true. I judge a car from my knowledge and experience and just because something is not specifically outlined in our guidelines, it doesn't mean that it is not correct and that I won't deduct points. The bottom line is that too many folks order our guidelines and feel that if they give these to their restorer and he follows them, then after a whole lot of time and money, I'll get a HIGH Gold award. I've seen a lot of very disappointed Concours entrants after their car does not meet their misinformed expectations. Folks it doesn't work this way, the guidelines are there to supplement and hopefully fill all of the missing information of the other resources available. They are not the end all word in how a car is prepared, just our attempt to help restorers fill in missing information that can only be gathered by careful research on how the cars were built originally. And to reiterate what Gary stated, the cars are judged to a statndard and not against each other. But human nature being what it is, too mant folks then complain that they didn't receive a "high enough" Gold award. There is no such thing. Gold is Gold, but reality is obviously something else. Cheers, Curt Arndt AH Concours Committee Chairman On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 6:35 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > In North America the cars are not competing against each other. They are > being > judged to a set of standards. It is possible for several cars to all > achieve > the same level, for instance "Gold" level. Their individual scores are > revealed only to the individual entering the car, not each other nor the > general public. > That is as I understand it. > > Gary Hodson From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 10:17:18 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:17:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: concours judging In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <5FF7997F-A5AD-4804-B0D6-A6D553B21A89@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris, Thanks for the kind words. You are someone who obviously get what we in the US and Canada Concours Committe are trying to accomplish. I've often wondered what would happen if someone could go back in time and bring back a brand new Healey and then have it judged in our brand of Concours. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 7:12 AM, Chris Dimmock [Healey] < austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote: > This is just a personal opinion. > Firstly, I totally support the concept of a "unified" world standard for > Healey concours judging, and have championed that end for over 12 years > here > in NSW Australia - despite not actually owning a bog standard original car. > I truly believe that having a consistent global standard, with consistent > judging guidelines, administed by passionate people, with published > guidelines, and accepting newly uncovered evidence, and discussing it, and > modifying the published guielines,is the ABSOLUTE best outcome for our > Marque globally. > And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and > anyone else - who has conributed to the wonderful resource of concours > originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. > Our friends in the US have provided that framework. > In answer to Josef's question, I've thought long and hard about his > question > for 30 years. And I'd like to rephrase it, if that's ok Josef. > Let's go back to 1953 and talk concours. > Imagine it is one or two months after the delivery of the first 100's to > your country, in 1953, wherever in the world you are... > Imagine that say 2 or 5 or 20 or 50 guys turned up to your 'first' club > meeting, in their brand new BN1's, and it was a concours.... And the oldest > BN1 was now 30 days old.... > In my personal opinion, given that almost every car was "original", I think > the "best" car would have theoretically been the one which was driven home > from the showroom, and "put together properly" by the owner. And cleaned > and > scrubbed and polished all over. > The guy that fixed and adjusted the door gaps, bonnet gaps, etc, and > cleaned > off the overspray, and adjusted the bumpers, door openers, etc. And fixed > the oil leaks.... And cleaned it until it shone all over > The car that actually was 'best built' , or "best put together" amounst a > whole pile of brand new cars.. > Think about which would have been the "best" car when they were new. > Bog standard cars, judged by their peers..... Back in the day. > Just my opinion. > Me? I'd rather have triple webers, all original numbers, with minilites and > heaps of negative camber; yet .... I still run a Lucas generator, Lucas > starter motor, and Armstrong lever arm shocks (cause they are original.... > And you just don't change things like that!!!) > Thanks for the opportunity for my few cents M.J.B, and this resource that > allows us to discuss this stuff! > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 4 10:26:45 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 12:26:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4D02C09DE4E44ADC9DEE98DA19F755DB@LIFEBOOK> I saw Goldie here in Dundas, Ontario when Bruce and Inan brought her to MacGregor Coach Trimming for exact replicating of the then tatty original Mink and Chinese Kid leather interior. I would wonder how well all that has been re-redone again! Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:24 AM To: "Richard Dryman" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again > So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A > shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to > AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years > goes by so quickly). > > Ray > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Richard Dryman" > Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again > >> Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, >> Sept 2010 >> issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who >> redid her: >> Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new >> 24 >> Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 10:31:46 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 09:31:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ray, Not true. Goldie when first discovered was in *very sad shape* and was first restored by Bruce Phillips. It has just been restored yet again. What you saw in 2000 was an already restored Goldie, so "originality" was already lost when Healey Surgeons first restored the car. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:24 AM, wrote: > So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A > shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to > AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes > by so quickly). > > Ray > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Richard Dryman" > Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again > > Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, >> Sept 2010 >> issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who >> redid her: >> Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new >> 24 >> Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From ahstc at live.com Wed Aug 4 10:41:42 2010 From: ahstc at live.com (ahstc at live.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 12:41:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks Curt, Never knew that! R From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 12:31 PM To: ahstc at live.com Cc: Richard Dryman ; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Ray, Not true. Goldie when first discovered was in very sad shape and was first restored by Bruce Phillips. It has just been restored yet again. What you saw in 2000 was an already restored Goldie, so "originality" was already lost when Healey Surgeons first restored the car. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:24 AM, wrote: So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes by so quickly). Ray -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Dryman" Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, Sept 2010 issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who redid her: Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new 24 Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 10:44:24 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 18:44:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9D65@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> I can whole hardly support this sentence from Chris: Chris Dimmock wrote: "And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and anyone else - who has contributed to the wonderful resource of concours originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. Our friends in the US have provided that framework." The originality guidelines are a masterpiece of work and its "The Healey Publication" I use most in my daily hobby entertainment. The way of doing Concours we may not be able to unify. The way of doing Concours is very different in the places of the world and personally I have to say I would not be happy to do Concours Judging as its done by the US friends. I do not want to check a car that close and to the finest details for an hour or more. I think that's really boring and we would not find enough judges to do it. But that's my personal view. Josef Eckert From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 4 10:48:28 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 16:48:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? In-Reply-To: <540012670.991017.1280937328824.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <983511030.994351.1280940508863.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> That was going to be my next question. The recessed areas are at 1 and 7 o'clock as viewed from behind; i.e. from the cockpit. I figured the milled areas would be for the dowel bolts, since there's only two of them, but I may well be wrong. Also, I put the bolt heads on the bellhousing side, nuts on the engine adapter side since I never put lockwashers against aluminium. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I gotta ask ... are you 2 guys looking at the same piece? If one of you is looking at the engine and the other at the gearbox, then it's possible that you're both right, if my mental transposition works. > > On our BN2, there are milled recesses for bolt heads at the 1 and 7 > o'clock position--I figured the dowel bolts went there. > > If not, why do only these two positions have milled recesses? > > bs > > > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > > Hello Tadek, > > They go at 5 and 11 o clock position. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > Betreff: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? > > > > Hello, > > > > There are 2 dowel bolts to mate the gearbox to the engine - where do they > > go??.. > > > > Many thanks, From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 11:09:51 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:09:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies Message-ID: I'm thinking of getting a set of dollies to push my Healey around in the garage. The archives have a couple of threads on the topic, but the threads are getting old and some of the recommendations from Moss aren't available anymore. I'm interested in a dolly that I can slide under the wheel, and it can lift the wheel itself. Something like this: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31213 . Anybody have any recommendations? thanks, Tom From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 4 11:20:56 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 12:20:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <4C59240F.1050206@chello.nl> <8CD01F1163AFB46-F00-D817@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C59A178.4020200@justbrits.com> << ...our Concours Guidelines are just that... *Guidelines*. We are continuously accused of updating (changing) the standards yearly and presently a moving target. This is just not true. >> AND it has been that way since the concept was intro'ed IIRC by Rich Chrysler & Gary Anderson [or was it Roger ??] at the Fall Delegates' Meeting in Arlington Hgts. in '85 [??]. << Cars are judged as to a standard of how they came from the factory, >> << They are not the end all word in how a car is prepared, just our attempt to help restorers fill in missing information that can only be gathered by careful research on how the cars were built originally. >> And then there ARE "the odd ball" that comes down the pike. For instance, at Canada Conclave Niagara Falls in '89, Margo and my Cindy where having a cocktail and Geoffrey Healey and my self joined them almost at same time. Well ladies were chatting [imagine that ] with Geoff & I excluded and I mentioned to him that someday I would love to paint my [white] BJ-7 in Golden Metallic Beige but that I knew it would 'cost' me Concours Points. He then proceeded to tell me that HE had done just that to a BJ-7 'coming down the line' by having it pulled out of production line and painted specially with a WHITE car as the 'base model'. My point is that IF I started on my car taking PICTURES as I went and found that I did indeed have his ex-car by my DOCUMENTING the "Odd Ball" thing, I would NOT lose Points as I had the PROOF of it originally being GMB !! Now I would STILL need silver-green motor, 48 spoke painted wheels, etc., etc. !! So there ARE "loop holes" and the Guidelines even say so, BUT it is up to the car's presenter to PROVE the "odd ball" 'thing'. I also think as I have said for YEARS that we do have the BEST of the best in our Guidelines AND having s completely SEPARATE entity taking car of "the job". Ed PS: Keep up the GREAT work Concours Committee !!! From RCT2BNC at aol.com Wed Aug 4 11:38:13 2010 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:38:13 EDT Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies Message-ID: <2dc71.3bc322cb.398aff85@aol.com> Tom, I have a set of GO-JACK brand that seem to be the same ones in your Moss ad. They work great. Just remember that they do stick out from the car about 4" per side beyond the tires. Ben Cohen Tucson BN1, BN7, BJ8 and 2x AN5 From 3000mk3 at bighealey.org Wed Aug 4 11:52:57 2010 From: 3000mk3 at bighealey.org (Tom Mitchell) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:52:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009501cb33fd$e70e2f00$b52a8d00$@org> These look like the good ones. My buddy has two, swears by them. Don't waste your money on cheap sets, like (four for $100 or whatever) at Harbor Freight. They are not worth it (IMHO); I've found them very difficult to move cars, even as light as ours. Course by some standards I'm not a big person (5'6", 170lbs), yet it's everything I can to use them by myself. In fact they are so difficult I am considering throwing them away. I have two brothers with the same kind (cheap) and they do are not satisfied with them either. Tom Mitchell 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 Mark III -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 1:10 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies I'm thinking of getting a set of dollies to push my Healey around in the garage. The archives have a couple of threads on the topic, but the threads are getting old and some of the recommendations from Moss aren't available anymore. I'm interested in a dolly that I can slide under the wheel, and it can lift the wheel itself. Something like this: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31213 . Anybody have any recommendations? thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/3000mk3 at bighealey.org From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 4 11:58:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 12:58:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again - STILL !! In-Reply-To: <4D02C09DE4E44ADC9DEE98DA19F755DB@LIFEBOOK> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D02C09DE4E44ADC9DEE98DA19F755DB@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C59AA4D.2070708@justbrits.com> << I saw Goldie here in Dundas, Ontario when Bruce and Inan brought her to MacGregor Coach Trimming for exact replicating of the then tatty original Mink and Chinese Kid leather interior. >> And 'her' 1st "outing" was Encounter/Conclave. Anybody remember Inan "arriving" at the hotel [in pouring RAIN] sans hood ??? Or remember Inan AND Bruce's "description" of their room's "aroma" after a few hours of room HEAT on FULL trying to DRY the interior ??? Ed From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 4 12:03:32 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 13:03:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: concours judging In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <5FF7997F-A5AD-4804-B0D6-A6D553B21A89@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C59AB74.2060905@justbrits.com> << I've often wondered what would happen if someone could go back in time and bring back a brand new Healey and then have it judged in our brand of Concours. >> Wouldn't it have to be 'judged' on a concourse, Curt ??? Anon From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Aug 4 12:12:38 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 20:12:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? In-Reply-To: <4C598581.3090503@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hello Bob, Josef, What end are you looking from? When I look at the engine from the gearbox side, I have holes milled at 1 & 7 o'clock. Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 5:22 PM To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? On our BN2, there are milled recesses for bolt heads at the 1 and 7 o'clock position--I figured the dowel bolts went there. If not, why do only these two positions have milled recesses? bs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > Hello Tadek, > They go at 5 and 11 o clock position. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > Betreff: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? > > Hello, > > There are 2 dowel bolts to mate the gearbox to the engine - where do they > go??.. > > Many thanks, > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 4 12:17:35 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 20:17:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? In-Reply-To: References: <4C598581.3090503@comcast.net> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9DB8@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Sorry Tadek, yes I watched from the engine side, but the bolts go in from the gearbox side. So Bob is right with 1 and 7 o clock from gearbox side. Josef Eckert -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. August 2010 20:13 An: 'Bob Spidell'; Eckert, Josef Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Gearbox to engine dowel bolts position? Hello Bob, Josef, What end are you looking from? When I look at the engine from the gearbox side, I have holes milled at 1 & 7 o'clock. Best, tadek From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 4 12:42:21 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 11:42:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again - STILL !! In-Reply-To: <4C59AA4D.2070708@justbrits.com> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D02C09DE4E44ADC9DEE98DA19F755DB@LIFEBOOK> <4C59AA4D.2070708@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4F614F7F-C3E3-4D06-8C5E-A8E3814D8B2B@sbcglobal.net> I also remember hearing a story about Bruce Erfer founder of British Wire Wheel being told he could only site in the car if he was stripped naked. Well the story goes he got to sit in the car. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 4, 2010, at 10:58 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << I saw Goldie here in Dundas, Ontario when Bruce and Inan brought > her to MacGregor Coach Trimming for exact replicating of the then > tatty original Mink and Chinese Kid leather interior. >> > > And 'her' 1st "outing" was Encounter/Conclave. Anybody > remember Inan "arriving" at the hotel [in pouring RAIN] sans > hood ??? > > Or remember Inan AND Bruce's "description" of their room's > "aroma" after a few hours of room HEAT on FULL trying to > DRY the interior ??? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 4 12:57:58 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 14:57:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: concours judging Message-ID: <8ECD77073A9A4A01B2E0AF3187CB18CF@LIFEBOOK> Every time the subject of Concours Judging comes up, there always seems to be lots of folks who are NOT involved in, and know almost nothing about the process who always feel the need to pipe up and talk it down, or otherwise cloud and confuse the subject to the point where the onlookers repeat once more "that once again reinforces my opinion about Concours". I cannot speak for other Concours activities around the world, but I can speak for our National Concours Registry, here in North America. The National Concours Registry and it's steering committee was formed in the late '80's from a small group of like minded enthusiasts from the USA and Canada. Our years of ongoing development of accurate Guidelines that people can follow (as they wish) and the criteria by which we judge a car is very different from separate individual events like Pebble Beach, from the British and European judging criteria, and many others held round the world. 1. We greatly encourage the driving and use of the car. 2. We are looking more for correctness and authenticity than how bright or shiny the item may be. Over polishing or too deep a modern super paint finish can actually be cause for a minor deduction if too "over done". 3. We look at the "intention" of the original manufacturing standards, and are not looking (within reason) to accept the flaws that inevitably crept into the assembly process, so for example, that drip or run in the paint was not intended so should have an appropriate deduction. 4. Our National Concours Registry here in North America conducts sanctioned judging in which we do not compete car against car, rather the car is evaluated against a standard. 4 cars entered may end up with one not achieving a level at all, while two may achieve a Bronze award and one may achieve Gold. It all depends on what the points ad up to. 5. The individual point score is never revealed to anybody but the entrant. The Committee will only reveal the award level achieved; Bronze, Silver, or Gold. 6. Our National Concours Registry does NOT belong to, nor are we politically affiliated with any clubs, so we are steered only by our Committee of which there are currently 11 like minded enthusiasts who volunteer their time, care and knowledge to assist in the annual review and updating of each year's Guidelines, Score and Policy sheets. 7. A CD of this work is available to anybody who wants it anywhere in the world, and it has become a very comprehensive tool to build your car, whether you ever wish to have the car judged at one of our sanctioned judgings or not. 8. It is very satisfying to observe the number of cars that have been judged and achieved an award level over the last 20 years, that have gone on to be beautiful accurate regular drivers that turn up at meets all over the continent. Rich Chrysler From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 13:03:45 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 12:03:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?concours_judging?= Message-ID: <4c59b983.5e27e30a.62ef.559a@mx.google.com> I understand the Corvette judges count stiches per inch on seat covers to add or subtract points! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Josef.Eckert" Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2010 9:44 am Subject: [Healeys] concours judging To: I can whole hardly support this sentence from Chris: Chris Dimmock wrote: "And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and anyone else - who has contributed to the wonderful resource of concours originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. Our friends in the US have provided that framework." The originality guidelines are a masterpiece of work and its "The Healey Publication" I use most in my daily hobby entertainment. The way of doing Concours we may not be able to unify. The way of doing Concours is very different in the places of the world and personally I have to say I would not be happy to do Concours Judging as its done by the US friends. I do not want to check a car that close and to the finest details for an hour or more. I think that's really boring and we would not find enough judges to do it. But that's my personal view. Josef Eckert _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 18:12:46 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 17:12:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2010 Photos Message-ID: <953608.54416.qm@web83908.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The Midwest Region AHC has put about 1500 photos that we have collect on http://picasaweb.google.com/102803029943227877077 Enjoy! Conclave 2010 From roadwarriordave at hotmail.com Wed Aug 4 19:15:19 2010 From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 21:15:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a pair of these self jacking dollies and love them. Well worth the price as compared to the regular (cheaper platform type) dollies that don't feature their own jack. They are incredibly quick to use (2 minutes rather than half an hour) and you won't damage the frame on the Healley as you might with the non-jacking kind. The only functional disadvantage when compared with cheaper platform dollies is that the castors of these self jacking dollies stick way way out to the side which could preventing 2 cars from being stored side by side as closely as could the cheaper platform dollies. -Dave Murphy Dearborn Mi 1966 BJ8 > Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:09:51 -0400 > From: ah3000me at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] recent experience with dollies > > I'm thinking of getting a set of dollies to push my Healey around in > the garage. The archives have a couple of threads on the topic, but > the threads are getting old and some of the recommendations from Moss > aren't available anymore. I'm interested in a dolly that I can slide > under the wheel, and it can lift the wheel itself. Something like > this: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31213 > . > > Anybody have any recommendations? > > thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave at hotmail.com From jimf at frakes-eng.com Wed Aug 4 19:22:42 2010 From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 21:22:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 4 19:56:30 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 19:56:30 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Server woes Message-ID: <20100805015630.4D9782E0BE@bradakis.com> Came home from work and found out there were issues, starting a bit after noon Utah time. Team.Net is now back on the air. I wonder how many "Is this thing on?" messages I'll have to delete over the next little while? mjb, the one who is obviously overpaid and underworked when it comes to Team.Net! From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 20:00:58 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 19:00:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <783676.39939.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Some of us just joined and it's all new to us. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 4, 2010, at 9:40 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" wrote: Sorry if this is a duplicate. Gary From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Aug 4 20:06:20 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:06:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4c59b983.5e27e30a.62ef.559a@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <20100804220620.9D5UR.157732.root@pamxwww05-z01> Why would they bother---there are tons of Corvettes around. Even lots of the older ones. ---- "eyera3 at gmail.com" wrote: ============= I understand the Corvette judges count stiches per inch on seat covers to add or subtract points! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Josef.Eckert" Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2010 9:44 am Subject: [Healeys] concours judging To: I can whole hardly support this sentence from Chris: Chris Dimmock wrote: "And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and anyone else - who has contributed to the wonderful resource of concours originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. Our friends in the US have provided that framework." The originality guidelines are a masterpiece of work and its "The Healey Publication" I use most in my daily hobby entertainment. The way of doing Concours we may not be able to unify. The way of doing Concours is very different in the places of the world and personally I have to say I would not be happy to do Concours Judging as its done by the US friends. I do not want to check a car that close and to the finest details for an hour or more. I think that's really boring and we would not find enough judges to do it. But that's my personal view. Josef Eckert _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 4 14:51:36 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 16:51:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cb3416$d4c9a220$7e5ce660$@rr.com> The originality of GOLDIE was lost when she was brought to America from England and restored by Healey Surgeons. The car was a mess when they found her. I saw her shortly after she arrived at the Healey Surgeons shop in 1986 or 1987 and before the restoration, so I know she was in poor condition. Actually, I was a bit confused about this thread at first. I couldn't believe GOLDIE would need restoration again, even after 20 years. Sounds like the Phillipses sold her to someone else who had the second restoration done. Last time I saw her, I believe, was at Conclave in 2003. She was on display in a room at the hotel and certainly didn't look like she needed a second restoration then. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ahstc at live.com Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:25 AM To: Richard Dryman; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes by so quickly). Ray From craigsuerice at iquest.net Wed Aug 4 20:21:28 2010 From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig Rice) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:21:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4c59b983.5e27e30a.62ef.559a@mx.google.com> References: <4c59b983.5e27e30a.62ef.559a@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <902C826C8FC94983A4B2A8CE22014114@CraigHRicePC> They gotta have something to do, the bodies don't rust. Craig Rice (Indiana) BN1 & BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Josef.Eckert" ; Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 3:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging >I understand the Corvette judges count stiches per inch on seat covers to >add or subtract points! > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Josef.Eckert" > Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2010 9:44 am > Subject: [Healeys] concours judging > To: > > I can whole hardly support this sentence from Chris: > > Chris Dimmock wrote: > "And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and > anyone else - who has contributed to the wonderful resource of concours > originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. > Our friends in the US have provided that framework." > > The originality guidelines are a masterpiece of work and its "The Healey > Publication" I use most in my daily hobby entertainment. > > The way of doing Concours we may not be able to unify. The way of doing > Concours is very different in the places of the world and personally I > have to > say I would not be happy to do Concours Judging as its done by the US > friends. > I do not want to check a car that close and to the finest details for an > hour > or more. I think that's really boring and we would not find enough judges > to > do it. But that's my personal view. > > Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/craigsuerice at iquest.net From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 13:33:20 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 12:33:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: concours judging In-Reply-To: References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> <5FF7997F-A5AD-4804-B0D6-A6D553B21A89@gmail.com> Message-ID: <178768.12732.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I've been watching intently to see if anyone remembered the Barn Find of a completely original car. Can't remember if it was a 100-6 or a 3000. It was Healey Blue. Anyhow the owner got out the scrub brush, degreaser, polish and carpet cleaner and did a great job of cleaning the car. It was Concours Judged at Encounter about ten years ago. Might have been longer than that. I didn't have the pleasure of judging it that day, was busy as a note taker on a Bugeye. The results were that the car being completely original right down to the tires and tool bags the only deductions on the score sheets were for condition. The final count added up to a low Silver which was amazing since time had taken a toll on many of the components. It was a pleasure to see a how an original unrestored car would stand up to Concours Standards. My first car was a 1957 Longbridge 100-6 that I bought a week after being discharged from the Navy in early 1957. Many of you have rightly eluded to the fact that they didn't come from the factory looking like the Concours cars of today. I can agree that you are correct. But we would have to go to Bloomington Gold Standard if we wanted a completely original car. I prefer the modern day paints and methods of restoration. Ron Mitchell From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 13:36:27 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 12:36:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again - STILL !! In-Reply-To: <4F614F7F-C3E3-4D06-8C5E-A8E3814D8B2B@sbcglobal.net> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D02C09DE4E44ADC9DEE98DA19F755DB@LIFEBOOK> <4C59AA4D.2070708@justbrits.com> <4F614F7F-C3E3-4D06-8C5E-A8E3814D8B2B@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <907159.65119.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Remember Goldie at the 1985 Charlotte Conclave. Inan DROVE it down and broke several spokes. Inan said that she got Goldie up to almost 100 mph several times; I thought she had lost her mind !!! Still do !! If you still have the Panorama 180-degree photo, she (Goldie) is on the right under the yellow and white striped tent. ________________________________ From: David Nock To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net; ahstc at live.com Sent: Wed, August 4, 2010 2:42:21 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again - STILL !! I also remember hearing a story about Bruce Erfer founder of British Wire Wheel being told he could only site in the car if he was stripped naked. Well the story goes he got to sit in the car. David Nock From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 21:05:03 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 20:05:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <000001cb3416$d4c9a220$7e5ce660$@rr.com> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <000001cb3416$d4c9a220$7e5ce660$@rr.com> Message-ID: <126467.60966.qm@web110306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Remember Goldie at the 1985 Charlotte Conclave. Inan DROVE it down and broke several spokes. Inan said that she got Goldie up to almost 100 mph several times; I thought she had lost her mind !!! Still do !! If you still have the Panorama 180-degree photo, she (Goldie) is on the right under the yellow and white striped tent. ________________________________ From: BJ8 Healeys To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, August 4, 2010 4:51:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again The originality of GOLDIE was lost when she was brought to America from England and restored by Healey Surgeons. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 15:32:08 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 14:32:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ray, >From the pictures I saw of the car it was a wreck and as I remember it was saved from going to the crusher at the scrapyard. Bruce did a nice job 20 plus years ago but it was due for another refreshing. Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 9:41 AM, wrote: > Thanks Curt, > > Never knew that! > > R > > *From:* Curt/Nancy Arndt > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 04, 2010 12:31 PM > *To:* ahstc at live.com > *Cc:* Richard Dryman ; Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again > > Ray, > > Not true. Goldie when first discovered was in *very sad shape* and was > first restored by Bruce Phillips. It has just been restored yet again. > > What you saw in 2000 was an already restored Goldie, so "originality" was > already lost when Healey Surgeons first restored the car. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:24 AM, wrote: > >> So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A >> shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to >> AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes >> by so quickly). >> >> Ray >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Richard Dryman" >> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM >> To: >> Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again >> >> Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, >>> Sept 2010 >>> issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who >>> redid her: >>> Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new >>> 24 >>> Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed Aug 4 14:36:29 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 13:36:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours Message-ID: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What would it take for Goldie to reach a Gold Level in concours? Or a 100S or a factory competition/rallye car? Don't think we've ever had categories for non-production cars, but I suppose it could be feasible. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Aug 4 22:23:34 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 14:23:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours In-Reply-To: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF6F47FA@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Rick That was a serious problem we faced here in Australia so we have a single class for ex Works cars, Warwick Healeys, prototypes and other ring ins. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (Rather fond of ring ins!) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Thursday, 5 August 2010 6:36 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours What would it take for Goldie to reach a Gold Level in concours? Or a 100S or a factory competition/rallye car? Don't think we've ever had categories for non-production cars, but I suppose it could be feasible. Rick ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 4 22:40:44 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2010 23:40:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C5A40CC.3060808@justbrits.com> << ...saved from going to the crusher at the scrapyard. >> Curt, I 'think' it was Inan [coulda been Bruce but for some reason I don't think so ] that told me that Bruce found Goldie IN a scrapyard [breakers] getting ready for the crusher !?! << Bruce did a nice job 20 plus years ago.... >> Absolutely. What I liked tho was that while Bruce was telling me about the plating, I was poking around and looked in the boot only to find spare wheel/tyre which was UN-plated. He said that after doing all the rest of the stuff, they just couldn't afford doing the spare !! LOL Ed From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 4 23:42:47 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:42:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <4C5A40CC.3060808@justbrits.com> References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4C5A40CC.3060808@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed, I seem to remember that Goldie was very close to being crushed, but I wasn't certain. Tanks for confirming this bit of info. C On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 9:40 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << ...saved from going to the crusher at the scrapyard. >> > > Curt, I 'think' it was Inan [coulda been Bruce but for some > reason I don't think so ] that told me that Bruce found > Goldie IN a scrapyard [breakers] getting ready for the > crusher !?! > > << Bruce did a nice job 20 plus years ago.... >> > > Absolutely. What I liked tho was that while Bruce was > telling me about the plating, I was poking around and > looked in the boot only to find spare wheel/tyre > which was UN-plated. He said that after doing all the > rest of the stuff, they just couldn't afford doing the > spare !! LOL > > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Aug 5 00:00:47 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 23:00:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D112FFFB2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <305979.65588.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> F, I agree - there are too many over the top restorations out there that result in 'ugly' cars - chrome everywhere, brass everywhere, over restored paint etc. I many cases - All Moss Cars. Not to be confused with upgraded cars - comp repros, a/c, etc. hese are a different breed and do not make any concours claims. Pure driving fun for old technology's sake. The core theme of concours should be 'originality and driving pleasue' - not more glitz and trailer queens - only my opinion. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > Im > Auftrag von Frederich Ficke > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. August 2010 06:13 > An: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: [Healeys] concours judging > > I am confused about this concours judging. Isn't the car > suppose to reflect as > it was when new fresh from the factory. If so why are these > high quality paint > jobs allowed when cars of the 50's and 60's never had that > quality of paint > when new? > > I look at it realistically you can restore a car to better > than new appearance > however , it is only new once. Also the person restoring > the classic and > putting chalk marks and such where they would have been > when going thru the > inspection process while being on assembly line is not the > same as a restorer > duplicating the marks. > > I guess I am looking for clarification as to how this > judging really works . > It just seems as though these cars that win are way over > the top as to what > they were really like when they were new. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Aug 5 00:05:02 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 23:05:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <946231.86009.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> F, Bingo - keep driving ...... but maintain. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 8/4/10, Frederich Ficke wrote: > From: Frederich Ficke > Subject: [Healeys] concours judging > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, August 4, 2010, 6:05 AM > I appreciate all the info on the > judging. I guess I grew up with great cars > . I remember Dad having Jags he had a 37 ss100 roadster and > 120's and 140' > and 150. Shoot we had everything It was the 1960 and early > 70's when these > cars were not worth todays values but mind you to buy a ss > 100 jag for > 7500.00 in 1972 that was a lot of money. > > I guess I just love to enjoy the car and the drive. Many > people say you need > to restore your Healey and I always stop and reflect back > to what I have > done in the past. Once I got done restoring the car was no > longer fun cause > I worried all the time if it would get scratched or dented > or stolen. so I > just no lnger worry about it. One day some of you guy will > see me at a show > just driving my car and I would surely win the ugly car > award. but thats > okay I wouldn't have it any other way. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Aug 5 01:02:56 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:02:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <946231.86009.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <946231.86009.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9F51@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Frederich, That's fully acceptable for me even I am a Concours nut. The Austin-Healeys I own were such rotten that they needed a complete restoration to bring them back on the road. So I did - and its in me I can't stop that - complete Concours restorations ending up with cars looking better than they were as new. That's my personal madness and I also stay to it. On the other hand I own a 1950 Morris Minor Tourer were I did a very sensible restoration of the mechanical parts. The body of this car was still good enough to keep it and I just did minor necessary repairs. The engine, drivetrain, brakes needed a full rebuild as car was originally delivered to Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and the 3 previous owners used the car intensively, even with only two brake cylinders working. To say I tried to keep all the ("patina") traces of old age on the car. Bringing back this car to the road was much more difficult, as you can't go to dealers to get the spares you need, as they are no more available new. A spare engine I have got from the Swiss army, as they were used in a tank as a generator engine. But that`s a different story. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany --- On Wed, 8/4/10, Frederich Ficke wrote: > From: Frederich Ficke > Subject: [Healeys] concours judging > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, August 4, 2010, 6:05 AM I appreciate all the info on > the judging. I guess I grew up with great cars . I remember Dad having > Jags he had a 37 ss100 roadster and 120's and 140' > and 150. Shoot we had everything It was the 1960 and early 70's when > these cars were not worth todays values but mind you to buy a ss 100 > jag for 7500.00 in 1972 that was a lot of money. > > I guess I just love to enjoy the car and the drive. Many people say > you need to restore your Healey and I always stop and reflect back to > what I have done in the past. Once I got done restoring the car was no > longer fun cause I worried all the time if it would get scratched or > dented or stolen. so I just no lnger worry about it. One day some of > you guy will see me at a show just driving my car and I would surely > win the ugly car award. but thats okay I wouldn't have it any other > way. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Aug 5 01:31:39 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 09:31:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Message-ID: <2945470F56BA40BC94CC419F515A2BAB@tm> What is/was Goldie?... From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 01:47:05 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:47:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9D65@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127F9D65@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: Not sure I understand this comment Joseph. I believe the whole point of the US style judgeing is that the cars sshould be as close to factory as possible and are awarded Gold, silver and bronze (or nothing) according to their achievement.The only way to do this is to have several people scrutinise every aspect of the car, which of course takes time. I think that any other kind of concours is more of a concours d'elegance, where the car's condition and standard of workmanship is what is being judged. For instance this is what happened at St Moritz in the Concours there, although by chance, the car that actually won overall was the 3000 restored by Magnus which would have scored very highly in the US system. Other cars that received prizes were nothing like they left the factory. Personally, I dont think it matters as there is room for both types of Concours in the Healeey world as long as everyone understands the type of competition involved. In the US very few cars are actually put forward for the intense type of Concours judgeing so judgeing time isn' t an issue. Plus the US system isn't a competition. You are not competing against other cars you are having your car marked against a standard. best regards Derek regards Derek issue.On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 6:44 PM, wrote: > I can whole hardly support this sentence from Chris: > > Chris Dimmock wrote: > "And once again - a sincere thank you to all those involved in the US, and > anyone else - who has contributed to the wonderful resource of concours > originality guidelines from the US club. Thank you all. > Our friends in the US have provided that framework." > > The originality guidelines are a masterpiece of work and its "The Healey > Publication" I use most in my daily hobby entertainment. > > The way of doing Concours we may not be able to unify. The way of doing > Concours is very different in the places of the world and personally I have > to > say I would not be happy to do Concours Judging as its done by the US > friends. > I do not want to check a car that close and to the finest details for an > hour > or more. I think that's really boring and we would not find enough judges > to > do it. But that's my personal view. > > Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 01:57:24 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 15:57:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: <2945470F56BA40BC94CC419F515A2BAB@tm> References: <2945470F56BA40BC94CC419F515A2BAB@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - It was an over-the-top Las Vegas style show car made by DMH for the Earl's Court in 1958. Not really my cup of tea, but lots of gold and ivory... oh... and several furry cute animals were killed in the process. It's a fun one to look at. http://www.flickr.com/photos/proscriptus/4604961710/in/set-72157623930646335/ Cheers, Alan On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 3:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > What is/was Goldie?... From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Aug 5 03:50:49 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 05:50:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie again Message-ID: <005301cb3483$afc34040$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> While I'm of the opinion that concours cars should be driven as DMH intended, maybe Goldie should have been an exception and coddled just a bit more than it was. The gold plating, ivory hardware, and delicate pale brown suede and white mink interior trim were not materials intended to stand up to a life of hard use. She was built to be a princess, and should have perhaps been treated more like one. The car was found in a derelict state in 1983 with the interior literally hanging in shreds, water-soaked and blackened with age and exposure. To the Philipses' enormous credit, they restored the car to its original appearance with lots of help from Geoff Healey and Roger Menadue. The car was brought up to Martin MacGregor's shop here in Canada where it spent several months being retrimmed to its exact original specs. We took great pains in choosing the correct (read expen$ive) materials in a proper shade of thin suede glove leather, and strips of mink fur stitched together using the same technique that a mink coat is done in. Carpet was Wilton wool. The radio was enclosed in a special box, the heater box had a highly polished brass face plate, the steering wheel was a heavy-spoke type with a large hub area (not the standard Austin pattern), and the entire area behind the seats was enclosed by a large trimmed thin ply panel. All normal BN 6 parts- the spare tire, rear quarter boxes, battery cover panel and folded top were hidden behind this panel. The gold-plated speaker enclosures and special latches were let into the top face of the encxlosure, making for a very tidy look. The delicate suede material was much thinner and was made up of smaller hides than the normal Healey spec Connolly leather. It was very prone to marking and fingerprints, so we wore white cotton gloves the entire time. The interior was absulutely pristeen, there wasn't a scuff mark on it anywhere. So we at MacGregor's were somewhat taken aback when the Philipses picked it up. They casually tossed in their luggage, jumped in, and roared off- top down- into a looming thunderstorm. Next time I saw the car was at Encounter/ Conclave where Goldie was entered in a gymkhana. I could hear the brittle gold-plated spokes pinging and snapping . I mentioned it to Bruce, who replied "I know. We keep a box of spares". Best Peter From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu Aug 5 03:56:58 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 05:56:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging Message-ID: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> My previous boss collected very low-mileage Triumph TR-6's. One had only SIX miles on it. The factory workmanship was so bad and the paint (especially underhood) so poor that there was no hope whatsoever in meeting todays judging standards. As mentioned before, these factory cars were built to a different, assembly line standard than today's meticulous restorations, so these original survivor cars are normally judged in their own class in other clubs. Its a different world. In a sense, most of us are building replicas according to our own personal twenty-first century sensibilities and tastes, when we "restore" a Healey today. Best Peter Concours Advisory Committee From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Aug 5 04:28:50 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 12:28:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: concours judging Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127FA3FF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Derek, Here in Europe, we use the judging system as done at the European Healey Meets (Luxembourg, St. Moritz, Halmstad). We have about 10 classes which include all sorts of Healeys, also Warwick Healeys, Jensen Healeys, Sprites, even a "Tribute to Healey Class" ( for HMC Healeys, Isle of Wright Sprites, Replicas etc.). And we have classes for Modified Big Healeys and Modified Sprites. This is all done in a competition where 1st, second and third prizes are awarded in class and a "Best Car of Show", see: The Austin Healey Club National Concours: www.austin-healey-club.com/Pages/trophies.html We have about 20 to 40 cars booked in for a National Concours, even more for the Concours at European Healey Meets. So we are not able to spend such long time for judging one car. These many cars are judged in about 2 hours time. One or two judges together do one class. In case first and second scored cars in a class are very close with their overall scores, we do a second round with only these two cars to be sure to get the best car as the class winner. Similar we do for getting the Overall Winner. Anyway, if an owners wants to know how he can improve his car for the next event, the judges are very open to tell were to set the spanner. Concours is part of an Healey event and open to the public for asking questions to the owners and judges, which is heavily used. To take ideas and tips for your own restoration. Its included in an event as one of the attractions and usually there is some public around the cars and "expert discussions". Josef Eckert ________________________________ Von: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job at gmail.com] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 5. August 2010 09:47 An: Eckert, Josef Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] concours judging Not sure I understand this comment Joseph. I believe the whole point of the US style judgeing is that the cars sshould be as close to factory as possible and are awarded Gold, silver and bronze (or nothing) according to their achievement.The only way to do this is to have several people scrutinise every aspect of the car, which of course takes time. I think that any other kind of concours is more of a concours d'elegance, where the car's condition and standard of workmanship is what is being judged. For instance this is what happened at St Moritz in the Concours there, although by chance, the car that actually won overall was the 3000 restored by Magnus which would have scored very highly in the US system. Other cars that received prizes were nothing like they left the factory. Personally, I dont think it matters as there is room for both types of Concours in the Healeey world as long as everyone understands the type of competition involved. In the US very few cars are actually put forward for the intense type of Concours judgeing so judgeing time isn' t an issue. Plus the US system isn't a competition. You are not competing against other cars you are having your car marked against a standard. best regards Derek From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 04:33:26 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 03:33:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie again In-Reply-To: <005301cb3483$afc34040$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <005301cb3483$afc34040$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <16B2BB35-412F-4E69-816F-7B03A6120015@gmail.com> Wtf! What a story! I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 5, 2010, at 2:50 AM, "Peter Svilans" wrote: > While I'm of the opinion that concours cars should be driven as DMH > intended, > maybe Goldie should have been an exception and coddled just a bit > more than it > was. > > The gold plating, ivory hardware, and delicate pale brown suede and > white mink > interior trim were not materials intended to stand up to a life of > hard use. > She was built to be a princess, and should have perhaps been treated > more like > one. > > The car was found in a derelict state in 1983 with the interior > literally > hanging in shreds, water-soaked and blackened with age and > exposure. To the > Philipses' enormous credit, they restored the car to its original > appearance > with lots of help from Geoff Healey and Roger Menadue. > > The car was brought up to Martin MacGregor's shop here in Canada > where it > spent several months being retrimmed to its exact original specs. > We took > great pains in choosing the correct (read expen$ive) materials in a > proper > shade of thin suede glove leather, and strips of mink fur stitched > together > using the same technique that a mink coat is done in. Carpet was > Wilton wool. > > The radio was enclosed in a special box, the heater box had a highly > polished > brass face plate, the steering wheel was a heavy-spoke type with a > large hub > area (not the standard Austin pattern), and the entire area behind > the seats > was enclosed by a large trimmed thin ply panel. All normal BN 6 > parts- the > spare tire, rear quarter boxes, battery cover panel and folded top > were > hidden behind this panel. The gold-plated speaker enclosures and > special > latches were let into the top face of the encxlosure, making for a > very tidy > look. > > The delicate suede material was much thinner and was made up of > smaller hides > than the normal Healey spec Connolly leather. It was very prone to > marking > and fingerprints, so we wore white cotton gloves the entire time. The > interior was absulutely pristeen, there wasn't a scuff mark on it > anywhere. So > we at MacGregor's were somewhat taken aback when the Philipses > picked it up. > They casually tossed in their luggage, jumped in, and roared off- > top down- > into a looming thunderstorm. > > Next time I saw the car was at Encounter/ Conclave where Goldie was > entered > in a gymkhana. I could hear the brittle gold-plated spokes pinging > and > snapping . I mentioned it to Bruce, who replied "I know. We keep a > box of > spares". > > Best > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 5 04:50:15 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 12:50:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> Or any other classic. Bang on! Kees Oudesluijs NL Peter Svilans wrote: > ................ > Its a different world. In a sense, most of us are building replicas according > to our own personal twenty-first century sensibilities and tastes, when we > "restore" a Healey today. > > Best > Peter > Concours Advisory Committee [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 05:22:42 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 21:22:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> Message-ID: <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> I disagree. We are building the cars the way they generally "should" have been built. Overspray on spark plugs? Just a cost/ time saving measure. Tell me a professional engine builder who does that? Paint drips on a chassis? Upside down? Who as a professional painter would claim that as typical of his best workmanship?? So - still no response to my question from all the concours critics ..... "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given there were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 days old?" And judged by their peers. So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? Think about it. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 05/08/2010, at 8:50 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Or any other classic. Bang on! > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Peter Svilans wrote: >> ................ >> Its a different world. In a sense, most of us are building >> replicas according >> to our own personal twenty-first century sensibilities and tastes, >> when we >> "restore" a Healey today. >> >> Best >> Peter >> Concours Advisory From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 06:01:42 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 07:01:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> Message-ID: chris, either the red one or the blue one! cheers, jerry On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 6:22 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > I disagree. We are building the cars the way they generally "should" have > been built. > Overspray on spark plugs? Just a cost/ time saving measure. Tell me a > professional engine builder who does that? > Paint drips on a chassis? Upside down? Who as a professional painter would > claim that as typical of his best workmanship?? > So - still no response to my question from all the concours critics ..... > "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given there > were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 days old?" > And judged by their peers. > So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? > > Think about it. > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 05/08/2010, at 8:50 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Or any other classic. Bang on! >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> Peter Svilans wrote: >> >>> ................ >>> Its a different world. In a sense, most of us are building replicas >>> according >>> to our own personal twenty-first century sensibilities and tastes, when >>> we >>> "restore" a Healey today. >>> >>> Best >>> Peter >>> Concours Advisory >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Aug 5 06:24:24 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 05:24:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> Message-ID: <560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 7:22:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging So - still no response to my question from all the concours critics ..... "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given there were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 days old?" And judged by their peers. Judged by their peers? - Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Your description is that of a Popularity Car Show. So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? Your Theoretical Concours desribes a Popularity Car Show. In Concours judging all five could win Gold or Not. There could possibly be damage done to the cars during the first 30 days which would result in deductions for condition. There is no intended winner in Concours Judging. Cars are judged against standards not each other. Ron Mitchell From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Aug 5 07:09:52 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 9:09:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <20100805090953.AKVSQ.139990.root@pamxwww03-z01> Thanks for the explanation Rich--since i was one of those who made that statement. I think what happened to many "anti-concours" folks was that they got the impression that concours equated to a trailer queen, or one that was seldon driven. I drove with another Healey driver from Pittsburgh to Louisville to Conclave a number of years back. He was driving there to be judged in concours. It was a beautiful 2 days of driving and somewhat hot. For fear he would lose a few points for a less than perfect top, he would not put the top down. I guess it was/is feelings and attitudes like this that have created the "anti-concours" feeling among some. In any event, thanks for explaining what you do and how/why concour judging works. Regards tom ---- Rich C wrote: ============= Every time the subject of Concours Judging comes up, there always seems to be lots of folks who are NOT involved in, and know almost nothing about the process who always feel the need to pipe up and talk it down, or otherwise cloud and confuse the subject to the point where the onlookers repeat once more "that once again reinforces my opinion about Concours". I cannot speak for other Concours activities around the world, but I can speak for our National Concours Registry, here in North America. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 07:11:16 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:11:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 3000 crankshaft available Message-ID: <0A6C80C5ADF74EA892F1E86916F09B54@Edscomputer> List, Prior to being convinced to return my BN4 to its original engine configuration, I'd purchased some 3000 engine parts. Unfortunately, I'd already had the 3000 crankshaft crack checked, cleaned and reground .010 under. I'd also purchased a complete set of bearings for it. If anyone on this list is interested in acquiring it at my cost + shipping, please contact me off list. Thanks, Ed Woods From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 5 07:25:12 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:25:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours In-Reply-To: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <68D932A2410C4E0E819037F2862438BC@LIFEBOOK> Rick, Our National Concours Registry is not geared to judge one off's and special cars, not even the 100S, as they were built in 5 batches of 10 each and there were even differences between them. The Registry studies and follows the practices of the production cars only, and will remain with this theme. To this end, when an entrant has something on his production car that deviates from the normal production, he/she is encouraged to provide documentation that this specific car was built with this anomaly, the best proof being the BMIHT certificate. In the case of period options, the owner is encouraged to provide period documentation that this accessory was available at the time of the car's production. For instance an after market period luggage rack available from AMCO as shown on a 1960 BT7; bring a copy of the advertisement as seen in an issue of Sports Car Graphic dated Feb. 1960. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "HealeyRick" Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 4:36 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours > What would it take for Goldie to reach a Gold Level in concours? Or a > 100S or > a factory competition/rallye car? Don't think we've ever had categories > for > non-production cars, but I suppose it could be feasible. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From pennell at cox.net Thu Aug 5 08:28:47 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 10:28:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 inner body panels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100805102847.QDLT7.1336555.imail@eastrmwml31> All, I did this very thing years ago on a BT7. Took lots of photos, measurements and everything. Now it looks like a 72 Gremlin! Not really :) Keith ---- Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Todd, > > Alan is absolutely correct here. The are very few people capable of doing > this type of work, and not every so called body/restoration shop is up to > the challenge. > > Tom Kovacs of Fourintune is one shop that is capable of this type of work, > but I also know of an individual who is not a professional restorer who has > resurrected a Healey that even Kovacs claimed was un-restorable. It all > comes down to accurate measurements patience, which equals time, which > equals MONEY when your talking about a professional restorer. Now that's > were my friend succeeded where others have failed, he is retired and has the > patience the *skill* and the time to do it right. > > Todd I don't know you our your capabilities, but with all due respect if you > have to ask this question, then you are probably not up to the challenge, > and it is most likely left to an expert. And not just any restorer... one > who has done Healey's in the past is my recommendation. > > I have judged many a Concours car where the panel fit was atrocious, and the > body work of these cars was done by a pro, but in almost every case, they > were not Austin Healey specialists. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > > Todd - > > > > >From what I understand this is one of the most difficult and technical > > things you could ever possibly hope to do on your healey and is best > > handled > > by a chassis specialist/welder who is experienced with these cars. > > > > If your main issue is just a few spots of rust here and there, I'd focus on > > doing a patch job here and there rather than attempting to pull the whole > > kit and kaboodle apart. > > > > Best Regards, > > > > Alan > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:52 AM, wrote: > > > > I have 66 BJ8 in the process of restoration - I have the outer body removed > > and need to know if there is a process for removing inner body panels and > > replacing them with the new ones in the correct position/measurements. > > > > Any and all help would be greatly appreciated > > > > Todd > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 10:09:19 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:09:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours In-Reply-To: <68D932A2410C4E0E819037F2862438BC@LIFEBOOK> References: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <68D932A2410C4E0E819037F2862438BC@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: May I add my thanks for not only the time you folks take to answer OEM questions about the cars, but for the effort to get it right. My car will not be show quality, but do want to know what original is to guide my resto decisions. Cheers On Aug 5, 2010 6:55 AM, "Rich C" wrote: Rick, Our National Concours Registry is not geared to judge one off's and special cars, not even the 100S, as they were built in 5 batches of 10 each and there were even differences between them. The Registry studies and follows the practices of the production cars only, and will remain with this theme. To this end, when an entrant has something on his production car that deviates from the normal production, he/she is encouraged to provide documentation that this specific car was built with this anomaly, the best proof being the BMIHT certificate. In the case of period options, the owner is encouraged to provide period documentation that this accessory was available at the time of the car's production. For instance an after market period luggage rack available from AMCO as shown on a 1960 BT7; bring a copy of the advertisement as seen in an issue of Sports Car Graphic dated Feb. 1960. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "HealeyRick" Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 4:36 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours > > What would it take for Goldie to reach a Gold Level in concours? Or a > 100S or > > a factory competi... > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/... From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 10:42:55 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 02:42:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> <560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <13C166C4-0007-4241-9328-691C6F9CB2DE@gmail.com> Thanks Ron You got my first point of sarcasm. Judged to a standard. Not against each other. But you missed the point of the second part. "Judged by their peers" meant judged by the OWNERS of the 5 or so cars at my theoretical concours in 1953. "peer= someone with equal standing" How is that a popularity contest???? So, my point was if you had 5 owners, of 5 'new' BN1s, back in 1953, and one had "fixed" the obvious production related issues on his original car, now 30 days old, and meticulously cleaned it, and the 5 guys - peers- all looked at each others cars as judges - which car - based on the 2010 rules, would rate highest??? i.e. which car would those 5 guys rate as gold? All of them? Remembering the cars are all 30 days old, so there is no originality issue (in my theoretical example) It's my example, so I get to make the rules! Ok Ron! I didn't say some were crashed. :-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 05/08/2010, at 10:24 PM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > From: Chris Dimmock > Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 7:22:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging > > So - still no response to my question from all the concours > critics ..... > "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given > there were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 > days old?" > And judged by their peers. Judged by their peers? - Beauty is in > the eye of the beholder. Your description is that of a Popularity > Car Show. > > So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? Your > Theoretical Concours desribes a Popularity Car Show. In Concours > judging all five could win Gold or Not. There could possibly be > damage done to the cars during the first 30 days which would result > in deductions for condition. There is no intended winner in > Concours Judging. Cars are judged against standards not each other. > > Ron Mitchell From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 5 10:45:50 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 12:45:50 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Goldie Message-ID: <1087c4.6aa2afff.398c44be@aol.com> In a message dated 8/5/10 5:25:47 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > So we at MacGregor's were somewhat taken aback when the Philipses picked > it up. > They casually tossed in their luggage, jumped in, and roared off- top > down- > into a looming thunderstorm. > Goldie's life is certainly an example of the varying attitudes people can take to cars. The car was built to attract attention to the Healey stand at Earls Court in a year when they didn't really have anything new to offer (another company in the same pickle a few years later draped literally naked models over the bonnet of their car -- until the show officials put a stop to that, requiring them to put bikinis on the models, but the publicity result was achieved). Then, after the show was over, to milk a little more publicity out of the car, it was given away in a newspaper-sponsored contest. Needless to say, anything you get for nothing gets treated that way, and the car eventually reached the stage that the Phillips found it. Bruce and Inan then spent a car-load of money to restore the car to its original condition, but neither of them would ever claim to be show-car people, so the car was never coddled -- more's the pity, but it wasn't original Healey-applied gold or mink after all, so if they chose to keep it in their (rather dusty) showroom, and clean it up on the odd occasion when it made a personal appearance, that was up to them. In any case, when I first saw it there in the early '80s, I was extremely disappointed to discover that though the exterior cosmetics had been restored, the engine and drivetrain never got that attention, and they were reluctant to even open the bonnet. It's nice to see that the appearance of the original car has been reproduced once again (and this time perhaps closer to its original show appearance underneath), and still on the same chassis, which makes the car the "original" car -- it just can't claim to be "preserved" rather than "restored." Cheers Gary From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 10:56:42 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 09:56:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <20100805090953.AKVSQ.139990.root@pamxwww03-z01> References: <20100805090953.AKVSQ.139990.root@pamxwww03-z01> Message-ID: Tom, Think about what you just wrote. The man DROVE his Concours car to the meet from Pittsburgh to Louisville! Now you bring up the point that by his own choice he didn't put the top down??? So assuming he was judged and did well, I will also assume he continued to drive his Concours car as we in the Committee hope that all Healeys will be driven, Concours or not. Remember he was going to a meet to be judged, hopefully a one time event, and after that enjoy the car. But is any case, this was his choice. As a side note, the top if folded properly, should be just fine when re-erected or judging purposes since we in the committee understand and make allowances for cars that are driven. And this gives you and others an anti-Concours feeling? How? Take this a step further, if it started raining enroute, would you have put your top up? If so why? Besides the fact you may want to stay dry, it was probably to protect the interior and carpet. As I have stated repeatedly in previous posts, we in the Committee are of like mind and have gone out of our way to encourage the cars to be driven. One example is that we will eliminate the entire five point deduction for non bias ply tires if you use the proper 165R15 radial tires, and you drive your Concours car up to 500 miles during the six months prior to being judged. It it clear to me that most of the so called "anti-Concours" folks out there have preconceived misconceptions about our Austin Healey Concours based on other Marque Concours or a Pebble Beach Style of Concours d'Elegance judging. Geesh, if I had any hair left I'd be pulling it out right now :-) On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 11:31 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: *Remember that our Concours standards/cars do not include trailer queens as many misinformed folks on this list have accused us of, since we encourage Concours cars to be driven. If a US Concours car is a trailer queen then that's the choice of the owner and NOT our standards* Cheers, Curt. On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 6:09 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Thanks for the explanation Rich--since i was one of those who made that > statement. I think what happened to many "anti-concours" folks was that > they got the impression that concours equated to a trailer queen, or one > that was seldon driven. > > I drove with another Healey driver from Pittsburgh to Louisville to > Conclave a number of years back. He was driving there to be judged in > concours. It was a beautiful 2 days of driving and somewhat hot. For fear > he would lose a few points for a less than perfect top, he would not put the > top down. > > I guess it was/is feelings and attitudes like this that have created the > "anti-concours" feeling among some. > > In any event, thanks for explaining what you do and how/why concour judging > works. > > Regards > tom From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 11:10:29 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 03:10:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl> <2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com> <560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3946BE3D-EC28-46AD-BF85-226B5932CBF1@gmail.com> Geez, thats unusual. A reply with red words, in a larger font, and all underlined? Is Ed running HTML email encoding classes for listers? Ron - read my initial email on this topic. Maybe I shouldn't use my phone to post. In my initial email, you will note I put "best" in "inverted commas" every time. ;-) Did you sort out your ignition timing Ron? And which head casting are you running??? Cooling isn't an issue for me in Sydney Australia. Personally, i think that most cooling problems today are due to 45 year old engines having water jackets full of sediment and deposits. Redistrip the block & head My BJ8 has pretty good HP and torque for a non steel crank engine http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html and has done numerous 6 hour relay races, competition events, and road miles, http://www.myaustinhealey.com/wgatesera.html and has been driven numerous times interstate to compete. And has always been driven home. Best ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 05/08/2010, at 10:24 PM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > From: Chris Dimmock > Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 7:22:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging > > So - still no response to my question from all the concours > critics ..... > "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given > there were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 > days old?" > And judged by their peers. Judged by their peers? - Beauty is in > the eye of the beholder. Your description is that of a Popularity > Car Show. > > So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? Your > Theoretical Concours desribes a Popularity Car Show. In Concours > judging all five could win Gold or Not. There could possibly be > damage done to the cars during the first 30 days which would result > in deductions for condition. There is no intended winner in > Concours Judging. Cars are judged against standards not each other. > > Ron Mitchell From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 11:59:20 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 10:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours In-Reply-To: References: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <68D932A2410C4E0E819037F2862438BC@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 9:09 AM, I Erbs wrot > *My car will not be show quality, but do want to know what original is to > guide my resto decisions.* > Thank you for this comment. Our efforts are not just for those interested in Concours. Many of the questions asked on this list can be readily answered by referring to the Concours Guidelines. The same can be said for questions from the average restorer. The recent thread on Dowel Bolt position comes to mind. In fact if it wasn't for the efforts and research of Roger Moment, most of you would not even know what a Dowel Bolt was. Cheers, Curt From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 5 12:05:06 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 11:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie/Concours In-Reply-To: References: <535844.33746.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <68D932A2410C4E0E819037F2862438BC@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: I really could not imagine doing this project 10 years ago. I worked at Austin Healey Enterprises in the 70/80s, but have either forgotten things or we just did the best we could. Thanks again for your efforts. This list is an amazing resource. cheers On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 10:59 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > On Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 9:09 AM, I Erbs wrot > >> *My car will not be show quality, but do want to know what original is >> to guide my resto decisions.* >> > > Thank you for this comment. Our efforts are not just for those interested > in Concours. Many of the questions asked on this list can be readily > answered by referring to the Concours Guidelines. The same can be said for > questions from the average restorer. > > The recent thread on Dowel Bolt position comes to mind. In fact if it > wasn't for the efforts and research of Roger Moment, most of you would not > even know what a Dowel Bolt was. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Aug 5 12:12:57 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 11:12:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fender Measurement Message-ID: <64661.87751.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> With the installation of the lighter small block Ford in my BJ7, the front end of my car has predictably risen. I want to bring it back to stock ride height. Does anyone have a measurement from the ground to the center of the front wheel arch opening directly above the knock-off? Thanks in advance, Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From ahstc at live.com Thu Aug 5 12:27:25 2010 From: ahstc at live.com (ahstc at live.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 14:27:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again In-Reply-To: References: <259735.44537.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I understand that now, thanks. It's a shame it was so mistreated after Earl's Court but at the time, I'm sure it was just considered a 'used car'. It was great for Bruce and Inan to save it so future generations could appreciate. Ray From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 5:32 PM To: ahstc at live.com Cc: Richard Dryman ; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Ray, >From the pictures I saw of the car it was a wreck and as I remember it was saved from going to the crusher at the scrapyard. Bruce did a nice job 20 plus years ago but it was due for another refreshing. Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 9:41 AM, wrote: Thanks Curt, Never knew that! R From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 12:31 PM To: ahstc at live.com Cc: Richard Dryman ; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Ray, Not true. Goldie when first discovered was in very sad shape and was first restored by Bruce Phillips. It has just been restored yet again. What you saw in 2000 was an already restored Goldie, so "originality" was already lost when Healey Surgeons first restored the car. Cheers, Curt On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 8:24 AM, wrote: So, if true, GOLDIE, is no longer GOLDIE but a reproduction of GOLDIE? A shame the originality would be lost; I brought her up from DC in 2000 to AHSTC's Encounter Valley Forge, the car looked great (I know ten years goes by so quickly). Ray -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Dryman" Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 3:31 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE again Haven't seen this reported yet: Goldie redone: in Sports & Exotic Car, Sept 2010 issue; 4 pages, 11 color photos plus the next 4 pages on the guys who redid her: Jeff's Resurrections, Tx. w/14 color photos( not all of Goldie). All new 24 Carat gold, all new kid interior, all new paint !!! _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Aug 5 12:58:12 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 13:58:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging Message-ID: <4CF26D5A7C2E48D8BA454428FD74916B@DANSTROM> Rich & Curt: I am truly amazed by the amount of effort and time the whole concours group has put into this without compensation. We all share your love for these cars and all applaud your group for efforts in preserving the originally. I personally have read most of the guidelines multiple times and they are a major accomplishment that will endure forever (very fairly priced at $20 so everyone should have a copy as a reference). Thank you. Daniel A Stromquist _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 5 13:38:49 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 21:38:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127FA3FF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> References: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D127FA3FF@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Message-ID: <4C5B1349.3060401@chello.nl> Josef, Rich, Kurt and all others contributing, I have been trying to get a grasp with the concours business in the past as some of you may remember, but it was never completely successful. This time I think I understand the system and its differences in the various area's of the world. It has been an eye opener. For me it had always been something like Cernobbio, Como, Italy or Pebble Beach, Califonia, USA. I am glad that is only a small part of the scene and that I was proven wrong and that there is an awful lot more to it. Thank you all for putting me into the right direction. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Aug 5 13:57:31 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 15:57:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100805155731.ABVI6.148326.root@pamxwww03-z01> Thanks Curt--what you said, that's what I said in my note. On the guy with the top, it wasn't just the top, it was an attitude. He was paranoid about the car for fear he might lose a point. Of course it was a choice, but we need to look inside the motivation for the choice. In his case, he was driven (pardon the pun:) ) by his fear of losing points in coucour judging. I have no campaign to harm concour activities at all. I am grateful we have those with the knowledge who strive for originality with these cars. I actually do strive for it--although I have a Pertronix and an upgraded brake servo:) I am not "anti-concour" and I harbor no evil thoughts on those who participate. I was hoping my post would have clarified that:) tom ---- Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: ============= Tom, Think about what you just wrote. The man DROVE his Concours car to the meet from Pittsburgh to Louisville! Now you bring up the point that by his own choice he didn't put the top down??? So assuming he was judged and did well, I will also assume he continued to drive his Concours car as we in the Committee hope that all Healeys will be driven, ---------- From javrugtman at htcnet.org Thu Aug 5 14:14:51 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 16:14:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4CF26D5A7C2E48D8BA454428FD74916B@DANSTROM> References: <4CF26D5A7C2E48D8BA454428FD74916B@DANSTROM> Message-ID: <4C5B1BBB.7070800@htcnet.org> One point regarding concours level restorations, is that after you restore a car completely to a gold or silver level, it becomes a reliable and fun to drive car. Ours, restored to gold level in 1995, driven to the event in Canada from Virginia, has been a very reliable driver, with minimal attention, other than standard maintainence. Just drove it Monday on a 150 mile trip without a moments hesitation. John 66BJ8 64BJ8 74 Commando On 8/5/2010 2:58 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > Rich& Curt: > I am truly amazed by the amount of effort and time the whole concours group > has put into this without compensation. We all share your love for these > cars and all applaud your group for efforts in preserving the originally. I > personally have read most of the guidelines multiple times and they are a > major accomplishment that will endure forever (very fairly priced at $20 so > everyone should have a copy as a reference). > Thank you. From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Aug 5 15:15:17 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 14:15:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging Message-ID: <901886.38470.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Chris Thanks for asking. I will know next week if I have the overheating problem sorted out. I bought one of those adjustable Strobe Light to time the engine. With the help of a knowledgeable friend we tore down the distributor and confirmed that all the components were in good working condition. Without the aid of a Sun Machine we could only inspect the parts for wear. I had the Water Pump rebuilt. Had a radiator shop inspect and flush the recently recored radiator. Reverse flushed the engine while the radiator and water pump were out of the car and the petcock on the side of the block below the carburetors open. Replaced all components then added 2 1/2 gallons of 50/50 mix Antifreeze. Timed to car to 6 degrees before TDC. Adjusted the air fuel mixture of the three carbs with a Unisyn. Retimed the engine once more. Drove at 3000 RPMs on the freeway for approximately 30 miles round trip. Ambient Temperature yesterday was 91 degree F. Engine temperature was a steady 188 to 190 for the entire time. 185 degree Thermostat. So far so good. I'll know more after I travel up and down the mountains in PA on way to Encounter next week. I will check the Head Casting Number and get back to you. Ron Mitchell From drmasucci at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 17:51:47 2010 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 19:51:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge References: Message-ID: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> My BJ8 has always had typical oil pressure and still does. The engine runs great and makes no bad noises. But all of a sudden the oil gauge is oscillating a lot! It will chatter over a 20-30 pound range when the engine is at 2500 RPM or so. Even at idle it's chattering back and forth. I've seen similar things before when there's air in the oil line, but this is a lot worse. The engine seems fine...I hope. What could do this? Can the relief valve do this? Thanks, Dave BJ8 From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 5 17:57:24 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 19:57:24 EDT Subject: [Healeys] We're talking originality here. Message-ID: <135fc.7f5a94e4.398ca9e4@aol.com> In a message dated 8/5/10 10:34:35 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > May I add my thanks for not only the time you folks take to answer OEM > questions about the cars, but for the effort to get it right. My car will > not be show quality, but do want to know what original is to guide my > resto > decisions. > Cheers > And that's where the Concours Registry began, when Rich, Roger, and I sat down to discuss it at the AHCA delegates meeting in Illinois those many years ago. The point was to assemble all that we knew then about originality and continue to expand our knowledge while correcting old errors. One benefit is that we have a basis to evaluate cars that have been restored with original standards as the objectives, and to recognize them as rolling examples, but underlying all of it was simply the desire to expand our knowledge and make that knowledge available. We believed then, and we believe now, that the information about the original specificiations was worth preserving, lest these car simply become blank canvases on which anyone could paint their idea of "what Donald might have done, if he had ... " Cheers Gary From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 5 19:09:42 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 21:09:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging In-Reply-To: <13C166C4-0007-4241-9328-691C6F9CB2DE@gmail.com> References: <006001cb3484$8b632890$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B><4C5A9767.4010702@chello.nl><2834F54F-A126-49FF-8147-329B75876323@gmail.com><560822.54899.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <13C166C4-0007-4241-9328-691C6F9CB2DE@gmail.com> Message-ID: Each owner would theoretically probably call his own the best. However 5 recent owners wouldn't know enough about their cars to tell whether what they examined was "right" or not. However, you say based on our 2010 "rules"? You mean standards of what is expected today? Probably the fellow who had tweaked the obvious imperfections. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Dimmock" Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 12:42 PM To: "Ron Mitchell" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging > Thanks Ron > > You got my first point of sarcasm. > Judged to a standard. Not against each other. > But you missed the point of the second part. "Judged by their peers" > meant judged by the OWNERS of the 5 or so cars at my theoretical > concours in 1953. > "peer= someone with equal standing" > How is that a popularity contest???? > So, my point was if you had 5 owners, of 5 'new' BN1s, back in 1953, > and one had "fixed" the obvious production related issues on his > original car, now 30 days old, and meticulously cleaned it, and the 5 > guys - peers- all looked at each others cars as judges - which car - > based on the 2010 rules, would rate highest??? > > i.e. which car would those 5 guys rate as gold? All of them? > Remembering the cars are all 30 days old, so there is no originality > issue (in my theoretical example) > > It's my example, so I get to make the rules! Ok Ron! I didn't say some > were crashed. > > :-) > > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 05/08/2010, at 10:24 PM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > >> From: Chris Dimmock >> Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 7:22:42 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging >> >> So - still no response to my question from all the concours >> critics ..... >> "which BN1 would have won a concours in around June 1953 - given >> there were 5 entrants - all were original - and all are less than 30 >> days old?" >> And judged by their peers. Judged by their peers? - Beauty is in >> the eye of the beholder. Your description is that of a Popularity >> Car Show. >> >> So - which car would win my theoretical concours????? Your >> Theoretical Concours desribes a Popularity Car Show. In Concours >> judging all five could win Gold or Not. There could possibly be >> damage done to the cars during the first 30 days which would result >> in deductions for condition. There is no intended winner in >> Concours Judging. Cars are judged against standards not each other. >> >> Ron Mitchell > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 5 19:14:01 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 21:14:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> References: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> Message-ID: <000601cb3504$a76b4ec0$f641ec40$@rr.com> Dave, did you check to see if the hardline nut on the back of the gauge is loose? My gauge started vibrating during my return from Conclave in San Diego. I found the nut loose and tightened it. That fixed the problem. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Masucci Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 7:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge My BJ8 has always had typical oil pressure and still does. The engine runs great and makes no bad noises. But all of a sudden the oil gauge is oscillating a lot! It will chatter over a 20-30 pound range when the engine is at 2500 RPM or so. Even at idle it's chattering back and forth. I've seen similar things before when there's air in the oil line, but this is a lot worse. The engine seems fine...I hope. What could do this? Can the relief valve do this? Thanks, Dave BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 5 19:39:27 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 18:39:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> References: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> Message-ID: <4C5B67CF.5060006@comcast.net> Can only take SWAGs: - oil pressure relief valve - bypass valve in oil filter (have you recently changed the oil and filter?) - something wrong in the oil pump (broken gear/vane) - something in the pump drive (off the cam) - blockage in the pickup tube causing cavitation Before we started our BN2's engine after a rebuild, we spun the engine over on the starter with the plugs out. The oil pressure gauge would pump up to 30psi or so, then drop below 20, then pump up, etc. every couple of seconds. At speed, there's probably some pulsation in the oil pressure but it happens quickly enough--and the air in the oil pressure line probably absorbs the pulses--so you don't see it in normal operation. But, obviously, your problem is worse. bs David Masucci wrote: > My BJ8 has always had typical oil pressure and still does. The engine > runs great and makes no bad noises. But all of a sudden the oil gauge > is oscillating a lot! It will chatter over a 20-30 pound range when > the engine is at 2500 RPM or so. Even at idle it's chattering back and > forth. I've seen similar things before when there's air in the oil > line, but this is a lot worse. > > The engine seems fine...I hope. What could do this? Can the relief > valve do this? > > Thanks, > Dave > > BJ8 > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 5 22:48:36 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 00:48:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] As they were produced... ? Message-ID: <203e3.723431c0.398cee24@aol.com> In a message dated 8/5/10 6:43:57 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Each owner would theoretically probably call his own the best. However 5 > recent owners wouldn't know enough about their cars to tell whether what > they examined was "right" or not. However, you say based on our 2010 > "rules"? You mean standards of what is expected today? Probably the fellow > who had tweaked the obvious imperfections. > > Rich > Rich is got the right answer: Does anyone remember what the average number of flaws and problems was on any car coming out of an English or American factory in those days? Some got fixed at the end of the line, some got fixed before sale, and a lot only got fixed when the owner returned to the dealer to complain. That's why, when we wrote the standards, we said that the ultimate standard was "as the designers intended them to be built." We were very careful not to say, "as they were built" in the day. So, the owner who got the lucky car produced on Wednesday between morning tea break and lunch when all of the work force was happy, and then had a good dealer to work with to help him fix the things that didn't get fastened in correctly, or were missed, or whatever, that's the one that would score the highest on the concours inspection sheets. Cheers Gary From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Aug 6 04:17:26 2010 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 06:17:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer Healeys Message-ID: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> Posted on Bring a trailer a few days ago, a guy in NH is unloading a collection of 64+ mid-60s to mid-70s cars. The lot includes a bunch of LBCs. From the pictures, I could see the rear seats of a couple of Big Healeys. Reader posting with Healey rear ends: Original article: Craigslist ad: NFI, etc. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 6 06:29:36 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 12:29:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer Healeys Message-ID: There was a follow up yesterday though, where someone reported "The big engined Austins are all sold and going to a good home, ..." More pics were posted here, by that guy who visited the site.http://www.flickr.com/photos/22865850 at N04/sets/72157624528034375/with/48 60521076/ Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 06:17:26 -0400 > From: kentmclean at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer Healeys > > Posted on Bring a trailer a few days ago, a guy in NH is unloading a > collection of 64+ mid-60s to mid-70s cars. The lot includes a bunch > of LBCs. From the pictures, I could see the rear seats of a couple > of Big Healeys. > > Reader posting with Healey rear ends: > > > Original article: > > > Craigslist ad: > > > NFI, etc. > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From bighealey3k at aim.com Fri Aug 6 06:24:43 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 08:24:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> References: <77D883AB86DE48EA979EAAE88A9E42F9@lab092908> Message-ID: <8CD03797C1D59C5-1910-C5D6@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Dave, Years ago I had the same thing happen to my '67 BJ8. I was driving in traffic and all of a sudden my oil pressure gauge started to vibrate and the needle oscillated very rapidly and I noticed a drop of oil on my left pant leg. I looked at the back of the gauge and saw a drop of oil hanging on the nut that attached the direct reading oil line to the back of the gauge. I tightened the nut and it did not help. I am the original owner and know the oil pressure line had never been disconnected and guessed there must have been a column of air in the line that was lost due to the loose nut at the back of the gauge. I took the line loose at the engine and gauge and blew out the line and reconnected both ends and the problem cleared up and has never reoccurred since and that was back in '69 or '70. There is a small pin hole in the fitting to the back of the oil pressure gauge that dampens the pressure entering the gauge and I'm guessing the hole can't dampen the oil pump pulses with a column of oil at the back of the gauge. The column of air compresses more easily than the oil does and is dampened by the pin hole. Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: David Masucci To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Aug 5, 2010 7:51 pm Subject: [Healeys] oscillatiing/chattering oil pressure gauge My BJ8 has always had typical oil pressure and still does. The engine runs great and makes no bad noises. But all of a sudden the oil gauge is oscillating a lot! It will chatter over a 20-30 pound range when the engine is at 2500 RPM or so. Even at idle it's chattering back and forth. I've seen similar things before when there's air in the oil line, but this is a lot worse. The engine seems fine...I hope. What could do this? Can the relief valve do this? Thanks, Dave BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Fri Aug 6 06:53:06 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 08:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer Healeys In-Reply-To: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> References: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9D01CDD5-E5D9-4255-A6CE-AA50AE358B04@gmail.com> Healeys were all sold to someone from Connecticut. Anyone on the list? Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Aug 6, 2010, at 6:17 AM, Kent McLean wrote: > Posted on Bring a trailer a few days ago, a guy in NH is unloading a > collection of 64+ mid-60s to mid-70s cars. The lot includes a bunch > of LBCs. From the pictures, I could see the rear seats of a couple > of Big Healeys. > > Reader posting with Healey rear ends: > > > Original article: > > > Craigslist ad: > > > NFI, etc. > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 6 09:23:15 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 15:23:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Speedo angle drives Message-ID: I'm sure this will seem like a stupid question, as I figure I'm the only one who doesn't know the answer, but ... If one were to remove the angle drive from their BN1 gearbox, would that person then find out, in a somewhat rude fashion, if they had oil in their gearbox? Or, in other words, are you supposed to drain the gearbox first? I feel somewhat foolish asking, but I'll feel a lot more foolish finding out the hard way. This is my first time with a car that has an "angle drive" or overdrive. I did check the archives. Lots of mention of removing them; no mention of draining first. I checked the Service Manual and it is only mentioned as part of a complete service, near as I can find. I would normally assume, from the angle drive's location, that the gearbox should be drained, but I seem to have gleaned from discussions here that angle drive lubrication is required, so that leads me to assume that the oil isn't shared. On the other hand, there was a tiny bit of what looked like dirty engine oil on the lower end of the angle drive and the interior floor. ( But, it was thickened up with dust, so it's hard to tell. ) Thanks! Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 6 10:40:46 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 12:40:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedo angle drives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Robert, The angle drive will unscrew from the brass drive sleeve without losing oil from the gearbox. However, the reason the oil is sitting there in the vicinity is because the little oil seal within the brass drive housing is probably shot. This will require removal to get the sleeved drive housing unscrewed to replace the inner seal, and removal of that from the o/d housing will allow gearbox / overdrive oil to come out. Therefore to fix the problem properly, the gearbox and overdrive will need to be drained to be able to remove the speedo drive brass sleeved housing so it in turn can be to be dismantled and the oil seal to be replaced. Follow????? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 11:23 AM To: "Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] Speedo angle drives > I'm sure this will seem like a stupid question, as I figure I'm the only > one > who doesn't know the answer, but ... > If one were to remove the angle drive from their BN1 gearbox, would that > person then find out, in a somewhat rude fashion, if they had oil in their > gearbox? > Or, in other words, are you supposed to drain the gearbox first? > I feel somewhat foolish asking, but I'll feel a lot more foolish finding > out > the hard way. This is my first time with a car that has an "angle drive" > or > overdrive. I did check the archives. Lots of mention of removing them; > no > mention of draining first. I checked the Service Manual and it is only > mentioned as part of a complete service, near as I can find. > I would normally assume, from the angle drive's location, that the gearbox > should be drained, but I seem to have gleaned from discussions here that > angle > drive lubrication is required, so that leads me to assume that the oil > isn't > shared. On the other hand, there was a tiny bit of what looked like dirty > engine oil on the lower end of the angle drive and the interior floor. > ( But, > it was thickened up with dust, so it's hard to tell. ) > Thanks! > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen > )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 6 11:09:01 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 17:09:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Speedo angle drives In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thanks, Rich! No, I don't follow completely. I can detach the angle drive and so far, I'm not doing the BP thing. ( aka oil spill ) However, the seal that will prevent the minute oil seepage is internal and to get to that, I will have to drain the oil. So, using the Moss diagram ... http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28883#top #180 is the angledrive and then it shows a circlip #165 and #166 are a bearing assembly and pinion I assume that those are the ones that need to be removed? But, I don't see mention of a seal?Nor do I see the 'spacer' that everyone speaks of, unless the circlip is a spacer. Somehow I doubt that. Robert > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > > Robert, > > The angle drive will unscrew from the brass drive sleeve without losing oil > from the gearbox. However, the reason the oil is sitting there in the > vicinity is because the little oil seal within the brass drive housing is > probably shot. This will require removal to get the sleeved drive housing > unscrewed to replace the inner seal, and removal of that from the o/d > housing will allow gearbox / overdrive oil to come out. Therefore to fix the > problem properly, the gearbox and overdrive will need to be drained to be > able to remove the speedo drive brass sleeved housing so it in turn can be > to be dismantled and the oil seal to be replaced. > Follow????? > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > > > I'm sure this will seem like a stupid question, as I figure I'm the only > > one > > who doesn't know the answer, but ... > > If one were to remove the angle drive from their BN1 gearbox, would that > > person then find out, in a somewhat rude fashion, if they had oil in their > > gearbox? > > Or, in other words, are you supposed to drain the gearbox first? > > I feel somewhat foolish asking, but I'll feel a lot more foolish finding > > out > > the hard way. This is my first time with a car that has an "angle drive" > > or > > overdrive. I did check the archives. Lots of mention of removing them; > > no > > mention of draining first. I checked the Service Manual and it is only > > mentioned as part of a complete service, near as I can find. > > I would normally assume, from the angle drive's location, that the gearbox > > should be drained, but I seem to have gleaned from discussions here that > > angle > > drive lubrication is required, so that leads me to assume that the oil > > isn't > > shared. On the other hand, there was a tiny bit of what looked like dirty > > engine oil on the lower end of the angle drive and the interior floor. > > ( But, > > it was thickened up with dust, so it's hard to tell. ) > > Thanks! > > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 6 14:01:17 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 22:01:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Speedo angle drives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C5C6A0D.8050509@chello.nl> No need to drain the gearbox. Kees Oudesluijs NL robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote: > I'm sure this will seem like a stupid question, as I figure I'm the only one > who doesn't know the answer, but ... > If one were to remove the angle drive from their BN1 gearbox, would that > person then find out, in a somewhat rude fashion, if they had oil in their > gearbox? > Or, in other words, are you supposed to drain the gearbox first? > I feel somewhat foolish asking, but I'll feel a lot more foolish finding out > the hard way. This is my first time with a car that has an "angle drive" or > overdrive. I did check the archives. Lots of mention of removing them; no > mention of draining first. I checked the Service Manual and it is only > mentioned as part of a complete service, near as I can find. > I would normally assume, from the angle drive's location, that the gearbox > should be drained, but I seem to have gleaned from discussions here that angle > drive lubrication is required, so that leads me to assume that the oil isn't > shared. On the other hand, there was a tiny bit of what looked like dirty > engine oil on the lower end of the angle drive and the interior floor. ( But, > it was thickened up with dust, so it's hard to tell. ) > Thanks! > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen > )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3054 - datum van uitgifte: 08/06/10 09:37:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From scvc70 at epix.net Fri Aug 6 14:10:23 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:10:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Checking out a gearbox Message-ID: Now that we were finally able to expose the gearbox innards, we know that the gears all look good -- no broken or badly chipped teeth (only a very few pinhead-size nicks), and the shaft turns smoothly, with no noise. When we drained the fluid, there were some tiny (pinpoint size) flecks of brass, but no larger pieces. Two questions: 1.) Is there any way, short of installing the box in a car and driving it, to tell whether the synchros are any good? 2.) We can move the shift lever into the 3 forward gears without difficulty, but not into reverse. Is there any trick to doing this when the box is sitting on the bench? Once again, thanks! Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From scvc70 at epix.net Fri Aug 6 14:27:15 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:27:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 gearbox help -- Success References: <5B911737F2424E5FBF204914DC14B405@S0026273562> Message-ID: Success at last! For those of you who offered suggestions (and anyone else out there who might someday be faced with the sounds-so-simple task of tapping out the pin that holds the shifter socket lever to its shaft), this is what worked: --remove all the bolts holding both the shifter control box body [Moss cat. illus. #40] and the side cover [#36] to the gearbox --let both pivot downward on the shifter cross shaft [#70], exposing the shifter gate [#90]; remove this part --tilt the shaft and remove the entire assembly Once we did that, we rested the shaft on an anvil, with the pin over one of the holes, and gave the pin a smack with a hammer. The pin came right out--probably since the shaft couldn't move and absorb some of the shock of the blow, as it had when it was still on the gearbox. The pin isn't round--I should have realized that from the beginning, since nothing would have stopped it from turning when the nut was tightened! It was machined from a piece of cylindrical stock; threads on 1/3, and a flat machined on the other 2/3, widest/deepest at the base of the threads, and tapering up to nothing at the other end. The shaft has a flat-bottomed groove cut into it, so when the mut on the pin is tightened, the two flat surfaces are drawn progressively tighter together. Some DPO must have cranked the nut up REALLY tight (there were signs that someone had been in there before us). All that to accomplish a simple one-sentence task in the service manual. I wonder how many more "simple" tasks will turn out to be anything but.... Thanks to all, Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Carr&Edwards" ; Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 gearbox help > Can you slide the lever off? Maybe the slot in the pin is half moon > shaped? Does the threaded end have part of the pin shaved off as if > the pin is tapered? If not, the pin will have a half moon cut out, > which can't be removed without sliding the lever off... Thinking > outside the box here... From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 6 14:55:03 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 22:55:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Checking out a gearbox In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C5C76A7.6030301@chello.nl> You will have to take the box apart to be able to examine all parts for wear, i.e. synchro's, bearings, shafts, forks etc. Only then you can establish the condition of the gearbox properly. It sounds like a lot of complicated work, but it is not, really. In general gearboxes are easy to work on providing you have or can make up (wooden) dummy shafts. Make sure you have a proper manual to work from. If you have the facilities you can take the chance to fit the gearbox as is and see how it performs. It is not a terribly big deal to fit and remove the gearbox, the only drawback it being so bloody heavy. Kees Oudesluijs NL Carr&Edwards wrote: > Now that we were finally able to expose the gearbox innards, we know that the > gears all look good -- no broken or badly chipped teeth (only a very few > pinhead-size nicks), and the shaft turns smoothly, with no noise. When we > drained the fluid, there were some tiny (pinpoint size) flecks of brass, but > no larger pieces. > > Two questions: > > 1.) Is there any way, short of installing the box in a car and driving it, to > tell whether the synchros are any good? > > 2.) We can move the shift lever into the 3 forward gears without difficulty, > but not into reverse. Is there any trick to doing this when the box is > sitting on the bench? > > Once again, thanks! > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3054 - datum van uitgifte: 08/06/10 09:37:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 6 15:10:43 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 14:10:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans Message-ID: <731415.10409.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> need to sell a center shift bj8 trans with about 38,000 miles on it overdrive works fine i'm in rockland co new york looking to get 1000 for it i think still a bargain going to encounter on sat for popular car show can bring there would prefer local pick up because of weight thanks ralph From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Aug 6 15:37:05 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 14:37:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> Message-ID: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> List: I'm removing all of the shocks on my 65BJ8 and sending them out for rebuild. In preparation I doused all of the nuts and bolts with PB-Blaster and let them sit for a day or two. They all came off very easily, except for the aforementioned nut and bolt. This nut and bolt is one of two which hold the shock on a bracket mounted on the chassis. The nut is not captured and faces out. The bolt head is on the side of the bracket away from the shock facing in towards the drive shaft. When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt to spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. How do I get it off. I'm thinking sawzall. I'm no good with a torch and I've already busted a socket. I have a gizmo which cuts nuts in half, but there's not enough clearance to get it over the nut. Ugh!! Greg 65BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 6 16:51:22 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2010 15:51:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C5C91EA.1040909@comcast.net> Greg, Can only recommend you heat the nut (just the nut) CAREFULLY--you don't want to melt the shock body--with a propane torch and apply penetrating oil after heating. Repeat several times, then get your best sockets--or vise grips if the bolt or nut is rounded--and try to turn. If you have an impact wrench and can get it in there use that--probably would do the trick. If I understand your description correctly, the nut and bolt are backward from the usual installation (at least I do mine the other way--nut on the 'inside'). bs Greg Mandas wrote: > List: > > I'm removing all of the shocks on my 65BJ8 and sending them out for rebuild. > > In preparation I doused all of the nuts and bolts with PB-Blaster and let them sit for a day or two. They all came off very easily, except for the aforementioned nut and bolt. > > This nut and bolt is one of two which hold the shock on a bracket mounted on the chassis. The nut is not captured and faces out. The bolt head is on the side of the bracket away from the shock facing in towards the drive shaft. > > When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt to spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. > > How do I get it off. > > I'm thinking sawzall. > > I'm no good with a torch and I've already busted a socket. > > I have a gizmo which cuts nuts in half, but there's not enough clearance to get it over the nut. > > Ugh!! > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 6 16:54:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 06:54:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg - Try jamming a large flathead screwdriver between the nut and shock mounting plate to put forward pressure on the nut & use your socket again to start turning the hut off... doing this it may catch what threads you have and come off. Having a set of extra hands might help here. I've done this a couple times before. Alan On 8/7/10, Greg Mandas wrote: > List: > > I'm removing all of the shocks on my 65BJ8 and sending them out for rebuild. > > > In preparation I doused all of the nuts and bolts with PB-Blaster and let > them sit for a day or two. They all came off very easily, except for the > aforementioned nut and bolt. > > This nut and bolt is one of two which hold the shock on a bracket mounted on > the chassis. The nut is not captured and faces out. The bolt head is on the > side of the bracket away from the shock facing in towards the drive shaft. > > When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt > to spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. > > How do I get it off. > > I'm thinking sawzall. > > I'm no good with a torch and I've already busted a socket. > > I have a gizmo which cuts nuts in half, but there's not enough clearance to > get it over the nut. > > Ugh!! > > Greg > 65BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Aug 6 18:12:14 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 20:12:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking overdrive Message-ID: <107FA7FDCCF04B879CC48279D498E1C5@Edscomputer> List, In the past year or so, I've rebuilt 'A' type overdrives for two friends. Once installed, both transmissions were prone to hang in overdrive due to a sticking clutch. One of them has had the problem for over a year. We tried everything short of replacing the gearbox which was to be my next step. A few days ago, someone on this list reported solving a similar problem by a change from 30 wt oil to Redline MT90. I am happy to report that this fix worked with both of "my" transmissions. Thanks to the Healey guy and the Healey List for their help. I think I'll send the Listmaster a donation! Ed Woods From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Aug 6 20:06:12 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 19:06:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <4C5BE136.7000809@comcast.net> <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I hope you are sending the shocks to Peter C. at NOS Imports. http://www.nosimport.com/ Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 2:37 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > List: > > I'm removing all of the shocks on my 65BJ8 and sending them out for > rebuild. > > In preparation I doused all of the nuts and bolts with PB-Blaster and let > them sit for a day or two. They all came off very easily, except for the > aforementioned nut and bolt. > > This nut and bolt is one of two which hold the shock on a bracket mounted > on the chassis. The nut is not captured and faces out. The bolt head is on > the side of the bracket away from the shock facing in towards the drive > shaft. > > When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and > bolt to spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. > > How do I get it off. > > I'm thinking sawzall. > > I'm no good with a torch and I've already busted a socket. > > I have a gizmo which cuts nuts in half, but there's not enough clearance to > get it over the nut. > > Ugh!! > > Greg > 65BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Aug 7 00:56:10 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 08:56:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Concourse Guidelines Message-ID: <3B26633DB9304CF2A42F30FD189BE7E7@tm> Being in the assembly stage of my BN2 I can testify, that the guidelines are probably the best, up-to-date publication available for Healey restoration. I have taken a look at some other guidelines (like ones for an e-type) and they do not even come close to the wonderful and incredible job You have done. My only wish to the guidelines would be to make them even more detailed and with more photos - I would molest Rich (whose help is pure gold) to a much lesser extent if that be the case.. :-) BTW, when is the new edition coming??.. Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Aug 7 02:51:40 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 10:51:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Concourse Guidelines In-Reply-To: <4C5D0F12.6030809@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hello Bernard, For Guidelines ordering and pricing information contact Mike Osipik email: mikeosipik (aat) earthlink.net Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Bernard [mailto:bernard.cristalli at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 9:45 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concourse Guidelines Tadek, I may have missed something, BT7L244 will soon have a resto, where did you get these guidelines? Bernard BT7 E-Type XK 120 ... Tadeusz Malkiewicz a icrit : > Being in the assembly stage of my BN2 I can testify, that the guidelines are > probably the best, up-to-date publication available for Healey restoration. > I have taken a look at some other guidelines (like ones for an e-type) and > they do not even come close to the wonderful and incredible job You have > done. > My only wish to the guidelines would be to make them even more detailed and > with more photos - I would molest Rich (whose help is pure gold) to a much > lesser extent if that be the case.. :-) > > BTW, when is the new edition coming??.. > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagxk120 at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Sat Aug 7 07:03:52 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 09:03:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD04481E5A8F63-C34-16D87@webmail-m003.sysops.aol.com> Greg, If you are saying that you have a socket on both the bolt head & the nut and they spin freely but don't tighten or loosen, then obviously the threads are stripped. As you undoubtedly know by now there is not a lot of room to work in that area. A Sawsall might be hard to control without damaging the shock body. You might have better luck with a mini hack saw. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290073 Gary Hodson When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt to pin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. ck From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 07:09:49 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 09:09:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Top Replacement Probs. Again Message-ID: <001801cb3631$d1aacc00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> When is a muffler connected to a top install? When the idiot installer doesn't tell you to watch your muffler on his high threshold entry into his shop. CRUNCH! Great way to begin a customer relationship, IDIOT. Man was I pissed. And the threshold looked like a battle ground from years of previous wipe outs. He told me to just pull in the first stall and no warning mentioned, what was he thinkin. Anyway, now that that is off my chest until I can take a good look at the damage, here is my real issue if your still with me. First off, why do the "front top hold down latches" release UPWARD into the top. How does that not tear into the top, why didn't the factory install them releasing downward.? What were they thinking, or am I missing something here? And here is a parts quality question. After the top installer had the bow for my 1960 BT7 attached on the top of the windshield (top not installed yet) he showed me how much the release latches stuck out above the wooden bow. So once the top is installed he could see how serious wear would take place on the top from the latches. We tried my original latches and my new latches and they both looked the same way, too high. It seems that the counter sunk holes in the Moss header bow are not in the perfect location? Has this been an issue for anyone else and what is the fix? Unfortunately I don't have any remains of my original top stuff or I would bother you guys with this. I will return to the shop after I gather this info and he lowers his damn threshold. Mark From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 7 07:41:28 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 06:41:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt Message-ID: <345188.43861.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Friends, >From Mike: "I hope you are sending the shocks to Peter C. at NOS Imports. http://www.nosimport.com/" The thing about this list is you all care so much. It's as if you all are my car's guardian angels. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 07:55:26 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 08:55:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Top Replacement Probs. Again In-Reply-To: <001801cb3631$d1aacc00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001801cb3631$d1aacc00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <002101cb3638$3026aaa0$9073ffe0$@net> Mark, Sorry to be the one to tell you, but as the car owner, you are responsible for always checking ground clearances everywhere you drive. Regarding your top, our 1959 BT7 does not have any problems with the latches touching the top after everything is installed and connected. I either purchased the wooden headrail from AH Spares or Moss. Regarding the latches, release all the snaps at the back of the top first. Then push up on the underside of the top near the windscreen latches and the handles will not damage the top while taking off the top. When installing the top, secure the latches first, then the rear snaps Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:10 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Top Replacement Probs. Again When is a muffler connected to a top install? When the idiot installer doesn't tell you to watch your muffler on his high threshold entry into his shop. CRUNCH! Great way to begin a customer relationship, IDIOT. Man was I pissed. And the threshold looked like a battle ground from years of previous wipe outs. He told me to just pull in the first stall and no warning mentioned, what was he thinkin. Anyway, now that that is off my chest until I can take a good look at the damage, here is my real issue if your still with me. First off, why do the "front top hold down latches" release UPWARD into the top. How does that not tear into the top, why didn't the factory install them releasing downward.? What were they thinking, or am I missing something here? And here is a parts quality question. After the top installer had the bow for my 1960 BT7 attached on the top of the windshield (top not installed yet) he showed me how much the release latches stuck out above the wooden bow. So once the top is installed he could see how serious wear would take place on the top from the latches. We tried my original latches and my new latches and they both looked the same way, too high. It seems that the counter sunk holes in the Moss header bow are not in the perfect location? Has this been an issue for anyone else and what is the fix? Unfortunately I don't have any remains of my original top stuff or I would bother you guys with this. I will return to the shop after I gather this info and he lowers his damn threshold. Mark From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 08:58:22 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 16:58:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Good Photo of Sebring 3000s Message-ID: Somebody was recently asking where they could find a good photo of the Sebring cars. In the colour photo section of the book Big Healeys in Competition by John Baggott there is a nice colour pic of 54 FAC and 56 FAC pictured in 1963 , both of which look very Healey Blue in case anyone was quering the colour. As I mentioned 54 FAC has just been restored but has a non-metallic air force blue paint job which the new owner apparantly says he based on period photos and history whereas all references to these cars infer they were Healey Blue. Derek From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 09:01:35 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 11:01:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans References: <731415.10409.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001301cb3641$6e8e3a20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Hey, Hey a major break through. John Does' first name is Ralph. Or was that meant to be a curve in the puzzle. The plot thickens. ; ) M. Doe ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 5:10 PM Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans > need to sell a center shift bj8 trans with about 38,000 miles on it > overdrive works fine i'm in rockland co new york looking to get 1000 for > it i think still a bargain going to encounter on sat for popular car show > can bring there would prefer local pick up because of weight thanks ralph > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From fietts02 at aol.com Sat Aug 7 09:24:00 2010 From: fietts02 at aol.com (fietts02 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 11:24:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] non- Healey Message-ID: <133c6.28080cc6.398ed490@aol.com> I have 2 factory TR6 hardtops for sale if interested please contact off list. Ken From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Aug 7 09:52:21 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 11:52:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <546959.71174.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD045FA80F8D69-17B4-D4B2@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> Greg, I don't know if it is too late, but if I under stand you correctly, the nut and bolt turn in relation to each other with out loosening or tightening. It sounds like the threads are stripped on the nut or bolt or both. Wedge some thing between the shock body and shock mount next to the bolt and turn the nut and bolt in the loosening direction to force the nut and bolt to engage useable threads in order to get them apart. A common screw driver(s) of suitable thickness comes to mind and keep wedging the screw driver(s) till the nut and bolt engagement takes hold enough to continue coming apart. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Greg Mandas To: Healeys Sent: Fri, Aug 6, 2010 5:37 pm Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt List: I'm removing all of the shocks on my 65BJ8 and sending them out for rebuild. In preparation I doused all of the nuts and bolts with PB-Blaster and let them it for a day or two. They all came off very easily, except for the forementioned nut and bolt. This nut and bolt is one of two which hold the shock on a bracket mounted on the hassis. The nut is not captured and faces out. The bolt head is on the side of he bracket away from the shock facing in towards the drive shaft. When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt to pin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. How do I get it off. I'm thinking sawzall. I'm no good with a torch and I've already busted a socket. I have a gizmo which cuts nuts in half, but there's not enough clearance to get t over the nut. Ugh!! Greg 5BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Aug 7 09:59:02 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 11:59:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans In-Reply-To: <001301cb3641$6e8e3a20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <731415.10409.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001301cb3641$6e8e3a20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <8CD046096B69BB0-17B4-D5C0@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> I'm still waiting to be issued my Decoder Ring for these cryptic messages. :-) LOL Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Mark LaPierre To: john doe ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Aug 7, 2010 11:01 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans Hey, Hey a major break through. John Does' first name is Ralph. Or was that meant to be a curve in the puzzle. The plot thickens. ; ) M. Doe ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 5:10 PM Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans > need to sell a center shift bj8 trans with about 38,000 miles on it > overdrive works fine i'm in rockland co new york looking to get 1000 for > it i think still a bargain going to encounter on sat for popular car show > can bring there would prefer local pick up because of weight thanks ralph > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 11:13:41 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 10:13:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans In-Reply-To: <001301cb3641$6e8e3a20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <731415.10409.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001301cb3641$6e8e3a20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: i have an OD to go with it. $700 ron rader los angeles On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > Hey, Hey a major break through. John Does' first name is Ralph. Or was > that meant > to be a curve in the puzzle. > > The plot thickens. ; ) > > M. Doe > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" > To: > Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 5:10 PM > Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans > > > need to sell a center shift bj8 trans with about 38,000 miles on it >> overdrive works fine i'm in rockland co new york looking to get 1000 for it >> i think still a bargain going to encounter on sat for popular car show can >> bring there would prefer local pick up because of weight thanks ralph >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sat Aug 7 11:19:28 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 13:19:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ABC movie Sunday night Message-ID: Watch ABC Sunday night. "Wild child" movie has a BRG Bugeye sprite in it. I think 8 or 9 o'clock. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Aug 7 11:35:52 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 10:35:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt In-Reply-To: <345188.43861.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <345188.43861.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 6:41 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Friends, > > >From Mike: > "I hope you are sending the shocks to Peter C. at NOS Imports. > http://www.nosimport.com/" > > > The thing about this list is you all care so much. It's as if you all are > my car's guardian angels. > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > > Yes we are, so you better listen to us. Collectively, we probably know a thing or two. Mike MacLean From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Aug 7 11:47:52 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 10:47:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: On my way back from Los Angeles from work this morning at 9 AM. Saw a Black 3000 at juncture of the 57 and the 10 freeways. Anyone on the list? The car looked good. Mike MacLean From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Aug 7 13:03:03 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 21:03:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 Message-ID: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Hello, Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's definitely not UNF/UNC.. I lost 2 nuts :-( Best, Tadek From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 7 13:30:39 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg's Yahoo) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 12:30:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt Message-ID: <515865.1868.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Gary, et. al. Sorry for the confusion. The nut moved enough to loosen the pressure on the shock, but it froze on the bolt. Frozen together, the nut and bolt spun freely in relationship to the shock. Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. We have success. First, all the feedback put me at ease; Sacrifice the bolt and be careful in there. The winning suggestion was, drum roll please, from Ed, " Try a Dremel tool". As I was putting the dermal together I saw the little ball grinder and I had a thought. Since the nut moved only a tiny bit before freezing on the bolt, I figured something was lodged in the first thread. I took the ball grinder, dentist style, and ran it around the threads where the nut and bolt meet. After that, a little WD40 and 30 seconds with the impact wrench and off it came, begrudgingly. Thanks all. And yes. They are on their way to Peter. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my Wife's iPad On Aug 7, 2010, at 9:03 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" wrote: Greg, If you are saying that you have a socket on both the bolt head & the nut and they spin freely but don't tighten or loosen, then obviously the threads are stripped. As you undoubtedly know by now there is not a lot of room to work in that area. A Sawsall might be hard to control without damaging the shock body. You might have better luck with a mini hack saw. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290073 Gary Hodson When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and bolt to spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. ck From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Aug 7 13:45:15 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 21:45:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> References: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D12F01FD2@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> Hello Tadek, I assume its BSF like engine threads. Josef Eckert KOnigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Tadeusz Malkiewicz Gesendet: Samstag, 7. August 2010 21:03 An: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 Hello, Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's definitely not UNF/UNC.. I lost 2 nuts :-( From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 15:09:53 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 22:09:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Windscreen fitting Message-ID: Thanks Team for the answers received and guidance provided on this topic. The response that captured the dilemma perfectly came from Andrea Villa in Italy (Mille grazie Andrea) in which she gave me a link to the Linwood Rose restoration blog. http://tinyurl.com/34bwhy6 At Week 57 Lin says "........consulting with the experts resulted in at least three ways to do this job: under the pad, between the pad and the post, and cut off flush with the pad.". So I figured it was time to work it out for myself. I had already tried the method of trimming the rubber close to the pillar which I guess is Lin's option 3. That left an obvious butt joint to the pillar which would need mastic to seal it. So I removed the screen and scrapped the rubber seal, which was covered in mastic and cut too short, ready to try again. That prompted my first query to the forum for advice. I have spent the day sorting it out and come up with a solution that is much more satisfactory than my first attempt and looks pretty good. I have documented the approach with pictures on the forum at: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72 My next question to the list on this subject however - Is this how it should look? Does anyone have a BN4 through BT7 with original screen fitment that can comment on whether I've got it right? Many thanks....... -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 15:27:56 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:27:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt References: <515865.1868.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001201cb3677$67a36240$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> If you want Your shocks rebuilt and returned to you , put a letter in the box stating just that or you may get back some pretty dinged up units. But they all seem to work regardless. Happy Healeying, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg's Yahoo" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt > Gary, et. al. > > Sorry for the confusion. The nut moved enough to loosen the pressure on > the shock, but it froze on the bolt. Frozen together, the nut and bolt > spun freely in relationship to the shock. > > Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. > > We have success. > > First, all the feedback put me at ease; Sacrifice the bolt and be careful > in there. > > The winning suggestion was, drum roll please, from Ed, " Try a Dremel > tool". As I was putting the dermal together I saw the little ball grinder > and I had a thought. Since the nut moved only a tiny bit before freezing > on the bolt, I figured something was lodged in the first thread. I took > the ball grinder, dentist style, and ran it around the threads where the > nut and bolt meet. After that, a little WD40 and 30 seconds with the > impact wrench and off it came, begrudgingly. > > Thanks all. > > And yes. They are on their way to Peter. > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my Wife's iPad > > On Aug 7, 2010, at 9:03 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" > wrote: > > Greg, > If you are saying that you have a socket on both the bolt head & the nut > and they spin freely but don't tighten or loosen, then obviously the > threads are stripped. > As you undoubtedly know by now there is not a lot of room to work in that > area. A Sawsall might be hard to control without damaging the shock body. > You might have better luck with a mini hack saw. > http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290073 > Gary Hodson > > > When I put the sockets on it, it moved just enough to allow the nut and > bolt to > spin freely, but not loosen any more. I can't tighten it, either. > > > > ck > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healey at hunterbane.com Sat Aug 7 16:01:15 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 18:01:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap Message-ID: <777B8924-1290-4126-8AE6-43C85DECA60D@hunterbane.com> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the flange to the rear shoud. Thanks, Olin Brimberry Raleigh, NC From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Sat Aug 7 16:07:04 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 08:07:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Top Replacement Probs. Again Message-ID: <000101cb367c$deabd980$9c038c80$@net.au> Mark Remove the latches completely until after the hood is completely fitted. The aluminium trim will hold the header rail in position to enable finishing Then from inside screw the fittings into the correct position in a locked down position, You shouldn't have any more problems After that follow the instructions from Ron Ray John Rowe Qld Australia BN1 BT7 When is a muffler connected to a top install? When the idiot installer doesn't tell you to watch your muffler on his high threshold entry into his shop. CRUNCH! Great way to begin a customer relationship, IDIOT. Man was I pissed. And the threshold looked like a battle ground from years of previous wipe outs. He told me to just pull in the first stall and no warning mentioned, what was he thinkin. Anyway, now that that is off my chest until I can take a good look at the damage, here is my real issue if your still with me. First off, why do the "front top hold down latches" release UPWARD into the top. How does that not tear into the top, why didn't the factory install them releasing downward.? What were they thinking, or am I missing something here? And here is a parts quality question. After the top installer had the bow for my 1960 BT7 attached on the top of the windshield (top not installed yet) he showed me how much the release latches stuck out above the wooden bow. So once the top is installed he could see how serious wear would take place on the top from the latches. We tried my original latches and my new latches and they both looked the same way, too high. It seems that the counter sunk holes in the Moss header bow are not in the perfect location? Has this been an issue for anyone else and what is the fix? Unfortunately I don't have any remains of my original top stuff or I would bother you guys with this. I will return to the shop after I gather this info and he lowers his damn threshold. Mark _______________________________________________ From healey at hunterbane.com Sat Aug 7 16:45:55 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 18:45:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap In-Reply-To: References: <777B8924-1290-4126-8AE6-43C85DECA60D@hunterbane.com> Message-ID: <4BBA2B99-DBEB-4C27-93B8-F80393D862F3@hunterbane.com> Thanks Dallas. I was thinking I would need a press to clip the edge. I have tin snips - will that get it? I assume these are 1/16" thickness or so. Olin On Aug 7, 2010, at 6:41 PM, Dallas Congleton wrote: > Olin, if you don't find them, make your own. Get some 5/16 fender > washers ( available in the bins at Lowes), and trim one side with > metal snips. > Dallas Congleton > Little Washington NC > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Olin Brimberry" > > To: > Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 6:01 PM > Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap > > >> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my >> tank out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the >> washers. These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit >> against the flange to the rear shoud. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Olin Brimberry >> Raleigh, NC >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com From linwoodrose at mac.com Sat Aug 7 17:16:58 2010 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 19:16:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Windscreen fitting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan, I think your work looks great. I think trimming the seal so that it is narrower between the post and the pad was a great idea. Of course, the test is - does it leak. If it is water tight, then you are the man! Congratulations. Lin Rose On Aug 7, 2010, at 5:09 PM, Alan Bromfield wrote: > Thanks Team for the answers received and guidance provided on this topic. > > The response that captured the dilemma perfectly came from Andrea > Villa in Italy (Mille grazie Andrea) in which she gave me a link to > the Linwood Rose restoration blog. > http://tinyurl.com/34bwhy6 > At Week 57 Lin says "........consulting with the experts resulted in > at least three ways to do this job: under the pad, between the pad and > the post, and cut off flush with the pad.". > So I figured it was time to work it out for myself. I had already > tried the method of trimming the rubber close to the pillar which I > guess is Lin's option 3. That left an obvious butt joint to the pillar > which would need mastic to seal it. So I removed the screen and > scrapped the rubber seal, which was covered in mastic and cut too > short, ready to try again. That prompted my first query to the forum > for advice. > > I have spent the day sorting it out and come up with a solution that > is much more satisfactory than my first attempt and looks pretty good. > I have documented the approach with pictures on the forum at: > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72 > > My next question to the list on this subject however - Is this how it > should look? > > Does anyone have a BN4 through BT7 with original screen fitment that > can comment on whether I've got it right? > > Many thanks....... > -- > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Sat Aug 7 17:31:44 2010 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 18:31:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Coronada Speed festival in September Message-ID: <8731CDA0650547559F6BF98CCBDE7DA5@FredsLaptop> I was able to con HMSA (set them an application) into letting me run my good ol' Team Healey Texas Healey 3000 this year at Coronado as part of the Navy Fleet week program. Anybody on the list planning to be there (spectator or racing)? If so, maybe we could paddock together, or at a minimum get together and swap lies. If anyone has any experience running Coronado, I'd sure like any insight. Never run there before. All of the tracks I have run have been in the mid-west or eastern US/Canada. Defn: Experience - means one has messed up a lot. I have lots of experience! Cheers, Fred Crowley Team Healey Texas www.teamhealeytexas.com From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sat Aug 7 17:35:11 2010 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 16:35:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting References: Message-ID: There was a group of 12 Healeys from the Austin Healey Association of Southern California that met up for a drive up to Mt. Baldy. Its possible you saw one of our cars on that freeway heading to the meeting spot. There was at least one black Healey and maybe more than one. We had a great drive up the mountain and then we made a stop at Kurt Tanner's shop and got a short tour. A nice day. Ron Fine > On my way back from Los Angeles from work this morning at 9 AM. Saw a > Black > 3000 at juncture of the 57 and the 10 freeways. Anyone on the list? The > car looked good. > Mike MacLean From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 17:37:23 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 07:37:23 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap In-Reply-To: <4BBA2B99-DBEB-4C27-93B8-F80393D862F3@hunterbane.com> References: <777B8924-1290-4126-8AE6-43C85DECA60D@hunterbane.com> <4BBA2B99-DBEB-4C27-93B8-F80393D862F3@hunterbane.com> Message-ID: Olin - You can also use a grinder or small bolt cutters, or both. Alan On 8/8/10, Olin Brimberry wrote: > Thanks Dallas. I was thinking I would need a press to clip the edge. > I have tin snips - will that get it? I assume these are 1/16" > thickness or so. > > Olin > On Aug 7, 2010, at 6:41 PM, Dallas Congleton wrote: > >> Olin, if you don't find them, make your own. Get some 5/16 fender >> washers ( available in the bins at Lowes), and trim one side with >> metal snips. >> Dallas Congleton >> Little Washington NC >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Olin Brimberry" > >> > >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 6:01 PM >> Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap >> >> >>> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my >>> tank out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the >>> washers. These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit >>> against the flange to the rear shoud. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Olin Brimberry >>> Raleigh, NC >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 17:50:20 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 18:50:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap In-Reply-To: <777B8924-1290-4126-8AE6-43C85DECA60D@hunterbane.com> References: <777B8924-1290-4126-8AE6-43C85DECA60D@hunterbane.com> Message-ID: <000001cb368b$4bee8cf0$e3cba6d0$@net> Olin, I bought metal washers with rubber seals laminated to one side at a local hardware store and simply trimmed them to achieve the fit. My hope is that the rubber aspect will seal out water, but I know this may be overkill considering the location of the holes through the bodywork. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Olin Brimberry Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:01 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the flange to the rear shoud. Thanks, Olin Brimberry Raleigh, NC From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 7 18:29:10 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 08:29:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> References: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - Smiths equip will use BSF. If the diameter is the same, use the BSF nuts I sent you with the H6 LM kit manifold. Let me know the shaft diameter and/or the part no. and I'll send you a couple extra BSF nuts.. I have lots! Alan On 8/8/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's > definitely not UNF/UNC.. > > I lost 2 nuts :-( > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Aug 5 17:26:20 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 23:26:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] concours judging In-Reply-To: <4C5B1BBB.7070800@htcnet.org> References: <4CF26D5A7C2E48D8BA454428FD74916B@DANSTROM>, <4C5B1BBB.7070800@htcnet.org> Message-ID: Way to go John, I think this is a very valid point to build a car to the level it was when new and enjoy the driving in a way it was meant to be back then. Another point too, is that if and when you sell a car that is restored as per the Concours guidelines and at some point on a long drive away from home, something breaks down, you can look up the parts suppliers and get a part that is in the books, not some obscure parts that no one can figure out where or from what brand of car it came from. Believe me when you are on a road trip, you want to make sure you order the right part to get you going again. Jean Caron > Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 16:14:51 -0400 > From: javrugtman at htcnet.org > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] concours judging > > One point regarding concours level restorations, is that after you > restore a car completely to a gold or silver level, it becomes a > reliable and fun to drive car. Ours, restored to gold level in 1995, > driven to the event in Canada from Virginia, has been a very reliable > driver, with minimal attention, other than standard maintainence. Just > drove it Monday on a 150 mile trip without a moments hesitation. > > John > 66BJ8 > 64BJ8 > 74 Commando > > On 8/5/2010 2:58 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > > Rich& Curt: > > I am truly amazed by the amount of effort and time the whole concours group > > has put into this without compensation. We all share your love for these > > cars and all applaud your group for efforts in preserving the originally. I > > personally have read most of the guidelines multiple times and they are a > > major accomplishment that will endure forever (very fairly priced at $20 so > > everyone should have a copy as a reference). > > Thank you. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 7 23:43:38 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2010 22:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] gas tank straps Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100807214920.01ff62e8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I checked the archives and found one obscure reference to black gas tank straps. Are straps painted black for a '62 BT7? TIA John From healey at hunterbane.com Sun Aug 8 08:39:19 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 10:39:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap Message-ID: Got lots of great responses and I had an offer from Bob to send me a pair, which I thought was kind of him since he has never met me. To summarize the responses, just get some fender washers and cut them either with metal shears or h. Some suggested success with a bench grinder also. Thank you list members! Olin > -------Original Message------- > From: Olin Brimberry > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap > Sent: Aug 07 '10 22:01 > > Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank > out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. > These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the > flange to the rear shoud. > > Thanks, > > Olin Brimberry > Raleigh, NC From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 8 08:52:33 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 22:52:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] gas tank straps In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100807214920.01ff62e8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100807214920.01ff62e8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: According to the concours guidelines they are painted gloss black for all healeys. Alan On 8/8/10, john spaur wrote: > I checked the archives and found one obscure reference to black gas > tank straps. > > Are straps painted black for a '62 BT7? > > TIA > John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 8 14:29:51 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:29:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> References: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, They are 1/4: 26 tpi BSF threaded nuts. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 3:03 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 > Hello, > > Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's > definitely not UNF/UNC.. > > I lost 2 nuts :-( > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 8 14:34:44 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:34:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Windscreen fitting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31A94FB6E9CB4C1F8BDDE40E9001FDFA@LIFEBOOK> Alan, Yes, that is how it should look with the windscreen base seal trimmed so it can lay flat, then it can come over the rolled bead edge of the rubber windscreen base seal and hide under the stanchion base. A bit of sealant finishes the job. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Bromfield" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:09 PM To: "Healey Mail List" Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Windscreen fitting > Thanks Team for the answers received and guidance provided on this topic. > > The response that captured the dilemma perfectly came from Andrea > Villa in Italy (Mille grazie Andrea) in which she gave me a link to > the Linwood Rose restoration blog. > http://tinyurl.com/34bwhy6 > At Week 57 Lin says "........consulting with the experts resulted in > at least three ways to do this job: under the pad, between the pad and > the post, and cut off flush with the pad.". > So I figured it was time to work it out for myself. I had already > tried the method of trimming the rubber close to the pillar which I > guess is Lin's option 3. That left an obvious butt joint to the pillar > which would need mastic to seal it. So I removed the screen and > scrapped the rubber seal, which was covered in mastic and cut too > short, ready to try again. That prompted my first query to the forum > for advice. > > I have spent the day sorting it out and come up with a solution that > is much more satisfactory than my first attempt and looks pretty good. > I have documented the approach with pictures on the forum at: > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72 > > My next question to the list on this subject however - Is this how it > should look? > > Does anyone have a BN4 through BT7 with original screen fitment that > can comment on whether I've got it right? > > Many thanks....... > -- > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From cleona44 at hotmail.com Sun Aug 8 14:54:35 2010 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:54:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pair of NY Empire state plates "56AH100M" Message-ID: Anyone going to Encounter next week? I have a pair of NY plates NOS "56AH100M" which I can't use on my Longbridge. Let me know if you are interested. Let me know what you need - I might have it - 100 or 100-SIX related jim From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Aug 8 15:25:08 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:25:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Concourse Guidelines In-Reply-To: <3B26633DB9304CF2A42F30FD189BE7E7@tm> References: <3B26633DB9304CF2A42F30FD189BE7E7@tm> Message-ID: <876581FCF5444016A1B753F3AD8F3EF3@LIFEBOOK> Each year's new edition usually is ready for distrubution by end of February of that year. So the 2011 edition should be available by end of February 2011. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 2:56 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Concourse Guidelines > Being in the assembly stage of my BN2 I can testify, that the guidelines > are > probably the best, up-to-date publication available for Healey > restoration. > I have taken a look at some other guidelines (like ones for an e-type) and > they do not even come close to the wonderful and incredible job You have > done. > My only wish to the guidelines would be to make them even more detailed > and > with more photos - I would molest Rich (whose help is pure gold) to a much > lesser extent if that be the case.. :-) > > BTW, when is the new edition coming??.. > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Aug 8 15:41:49 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 14:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> References: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, As a rule of thumb, a BN1/2 will have three different and distinct thread forms present; *Whitworth*, mostly BSF and one or two BSW applications, found in the engine, transmission and suspension with changeover to UNF in some of the suspension parts in later cars (BN2s.) Also some BSP (British Standard Pipe - Parallel) applications in the engine. *Unified Threads* and once again mostly UNF and I can't think of any UNC, mostly in the body and chassis and all miscellaneous applications. UNF is essentially the same as SAE Fine Threads and interchangeable. UNF/UNC fasteners are marked to distinguish them from Whitworth Fasteners, and finally... *BA (British Association)* found primarily in the Smith's gauges, fuel pumps/sending units, and wiper motors. Be careful however as No. 2BA is very close to a standard UNF/SAE Fine 10/32 thread and a 10/32 nut will thread onto 2BA stud or screw and vice versa. However a 10/32 screw will not thread into a deep 2BA tapped hole. And NO British Association is NOT a Whitworth Thread!!! Cheers, Curt On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 12:03 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's > definitely not UNF/UNC.. > > I lost 2 nuts :-( > > Best, Tadek From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Aug 8 15:41:52 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 17:41:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Upper trunnion question Message-ID: OK, I'll admit I feel a bit silly asking this question, because there's obviously something about this procedure I don't quite get. I even put this job aside, and went on with a lot of other aspects of the restoration first. But here I am... When I did my wheel bearings, I understood how the shims were working because I had to get a certain end float within a given torque wrench setting...got it. However, with the upper trunnion bearing, and king pin nut, I can screw down the nut until it's too tight, and the trunnion can't move freely, or stop just before that. I can't see how the shims change this, as long as there's enough thread to over tighten. I hope this conveys my misunderstanding clearly. I'm using the new roller bearings, and the nut is a locknut, rather than the original castellated with pin. (Sorry Rich!) Thanks for your indulgence...I've been accused of over-thinking things before! Stephen, BJ8 From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Aug 8 16:03:18 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 18:03:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test Message-ID: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 8 16:29:19 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 15:29:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd and 3rd gear 'hop' Message-ID: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> Listers, Was making a short trip around some local twisties and hills and noticed that in 2nd and 3rd gear, when going from forward torque (engine torque) to reverse torque (coasting, engine braking) the shift knob would click and move slightly. There's no hitch in the drivetrain, just the shifter making a slight 'pop' and moving, in a different direction depending on whether I'm accelerating or using the engine to slow; e.g. pulling up a grade then lifting to coast at the crest. This doesn't happen in fourth gear, and I haven't noticed it in first. Looking for a little help from the transmission gurus. I'm guessing worn layshaft, allowing some 'flex' between the laygear and the main gear. So far, this is an annoyance, but want to know if bad news may be forthcoming. Gearbox may have up to 90K miles since last rebuild, when we replaced the layshaft. TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 8 16:45:20 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 16:45:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C5F3380.5080900@bradakis.com> Sorry. You did not receive a passing grade on the test. mjb. From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 8 17:41:41 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 07:41:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd and 3rd gear 'hop' In-Reply-To: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> References: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - If it's not popping out of gear, there's nothing really wrong. The little detente balls and springs are in the box specifically to keep the box in gear. As you go down a hill using the box to brake the car, the lever will want to pop out of gear, esp in 2nd. If it starts popping out of gear, then either the detente springs or the selector shafts will be worn. Usually nothing serious for the BJ8 box, even of popping out of gear, just use your hand to keep it in! Alan On 8/9/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > Was making a short trip around some local twisties and hills and noticed > that in 2nd and 3rd gear, when going from forward torque (engine torque) > to reverse torque (coasting, engine braking) the shift knob would click > and move slightly. There's no hitch in the drivetrain, just the shifter > making a slight 'pop' and moving, in a different direction depending on > whether I'm accelerating or using the engine to slow; e.g. pulling up a > grade then lifting to coast at the crest. This doesn't happen in fourth > gear, and I haven't noticed it in first. > > Looking for a little help from the transmission gurus. I'm guessing > worn layshaft, allowing some 'flex' between the laygear and the main > gear. So far, this is an annoyance, but want to know if bad news may be > forthcoming. Gearbox may have up to 90K miles since last rebuild, when > we replaced the layshaft. > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 8 17:53:14 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:53:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 65BJ8 -- Driver's Side Rear Shock, Furthest Rear Mounting Nut and Bolt Message-ID: <214758.21483.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Gary, et. al. Sorry for the confusion. The nut moved enough to loosen the pressure on the shock, but it froze on the bolt. Frozen together, the nut and bolt spun freely in relationship to the shock. Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. We have success. First, all the feedback put me at ease; Sacrifice the bolt and be careful in there. The winning suggestion was, drum roll please, from Ed, " Try a Dremel tool". As I was putting the dermal together I saw the little ball grinder and I had a thought. Since the nut moved only a tiny bit before freezing on the bolt, I figured something was lodged in the first thread. I took the ball grinder, dentist style, and ran it around the threads where the nut and bolt meet. After that, a little WD40 and 30 seconds with the impact wrench and off it came, begrudgingly. Thanks all. And yes. They are on their way to Peter. Greg 65BJ8 From warthodson at aol.com Sun Aug 8 18:05:27 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 20:05:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: References: <1AF63871E0AE4B49A8B764C2093F380B@tm> Message-ID: <8CD056DB51EF060-1BFC-1CC60@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com> Also, the throttle linkage ball joint nuts are BA. Gary Hodson *BA (British Association)* found primarily in the Smith's gauges, fuel umps/sending units, and wiper motors. Be careful however as No. 2BA is very lose to a standard UNF/SAE Fine 10/32 thread and a 10/32 nut will thread nto 2BA stud or screw and vice versa. However a 10/32 screw will not hread into a deep 2BA tapped hole. = From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 8 19:05:34 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 18:05:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cobra Kit Car Project - $2500 built on Healey 100 frame Message-ID: http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/cto/1845591184.html laugh, cry, contact them, just don't shoot the messanger:) Reedsport is on the coast a bit south west of Eugene, OR. Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 8 19:06:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 19:06:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd and 3rd gear 'hop' In-Reply-To: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> References: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C5F5493.7030103@bradakis.com> > just the shifter making a slight 'pop' and moving, in a different > direction depending on whether I'm accelerating or using the engine to > slow; e.g. pulling up a grade then lifting to coast at the crest. > This doesn't happen in fourth gear, and I haven't noticed it in first. > I wouldn't worry about it too much yet. It sounds like it is just the selector forks being a bit sloppy, or the detent balls and springs getting weaker. Basically the selector forks are held in place with thrust washers against the gears. As the direction of applied torque changes, the bevel cut gears want to move one in direction or another. The thrust washers keep the fore and aft motion to a minimum and keep the selector hubs in place. As the gearbox wears you'll get more movement. When it starts popping out of gear on a regular basis then you can start to worry. It doesn't happen in 4th because that is a direct coupling of the input shaft to the output, the gears, layshaft and such are just going along for the ride. Of course, I'm familiar with Triumph gearboxes, never worked on a Healey unit before, but the basic designs are all quite similar. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Aug 8 20:54:28 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 20:54:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd and 3rd gear 'hop' In-Reply-To: <4C5F5493.7030103@bradakis.com> References: <4C5F2FBF.9090500@comcast.net> <4C5F5493.7030103@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4C5F6DE4.4020508@bradakis.com> Minor correction: > > I wouldn't worry about it too much yet. It sounds like it is just the > selector forks > being a bit sloppy, or the detent balls and springs getting weaker. > Basically the > selector forks are held in place with thrust washers against the gears. I meant to say selector HUBS here, they are the parts that the gears push against, then the hubs push against the forks which push against the selector shafts which push against the shift lever. mjb. From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 8 21:00:46 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 23:00:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Upper trunnion question References: Message-ID: <000801cb376f$10f329a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> More shims for trunnions is tighter but more shims for wheel bearings is looser. Thats just the way God made them. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Hutchings" To: Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 5:41 PM Subject: [Healeys] Upper trunnion question > OK, I'll admit I feel a bit silly asking this question, because there's > obviously something about this procedure I don't quite get. I even put > this job aside, and went on with a lot of other aspects of the restoration > first. But here I am... > When I did my wheel bearings, I understood how the shims were working > because I had to get a certain end float within a given torque wrench > setting...got it. > However, with the upper trunnion bearing, and king pin nut, I can screw > down the nut until it's too tight, and the trunnion can't move freely, or > stop just before that. I can't see how the shims change this, as long as > there's enough thread to over tighten. I hope this conveys my > misunderstanding clearly. > I'm using the new roller bearings, and the nut is a locknut, rather than > the original castellated with pin. (Sorry Rich!) > Thanks for your indulgence...I've been accused of over-thinking things > before! > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 8 21:30:23 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 20:30:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] gas tank straps - answer and thanks In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100807214920.01ff62e8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100808103436.01fb7018@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100808202829.01ffc530@pop.att.yahoo.com> Gloss black; page 102-103 of the 2010 guidelines. I need to read more carefully next time. Thanks Alan! And thanks to all that replied!! Cheers, John At 07:02 AM 8/9/2010 +0800, you wrote: >On page 99. Look in the index for fuel tank. With the british >everything with the pipes are "petrol" but hardware is "fuel" From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 8 22:03:06 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 21:03:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Upper trunnion question In-Reply-To: <000801cb376f$10f329a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000801cb376f$10f329a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C5F7DFA.6070609@comcast.net> Stephen, Yes, you can--and should--tighten the nut on the trunnion until it can't move, but it doesn't have to. The front end pivots up and down on the soft bushes between the trunnion and the shock arms, and the swivel axle turns under the trunnion (hence the name). The weight of a corner of the car rides on the trunnion bushing/bearing, so the shims don't matter except to limit vertical travel; i.e. you don't want the swivel axle flopping up and down when the wheel goes over a dip (else you'll pound the bushing/bearing). Like Mark said, the shims are there to take up most of the slack (except for a couple thousandths). Fitting the shims is somewhat trial-and-error; use the old castellated nut to tighten the trunnion down so you don't 'use up' the new locknut. Bob Mark LaPierre wrote: > More shims for trunnions is tighter but more shims for wheel bearings > is looser. Thats just the way > God made them. > > Mark > > > >> OK, I'll admit I feel a bit silly asking this question, because >> there's obviously something about this procedure I don't quite get. I >> even put this job aside, and went on with a lot of other aspects of >> the restoration first. But here I am... >> When I did my wheel bearings, I understood how the shims were working >> because I had to get a certain end float within a given torque wrench >> setting...got it. >> However, with the upper trunnion bearing, and king pin nut, I can >> screw down the nut until it's too tight, and the trunnion can't move >> freely, or stop just before that. I can't see how the shims change >> this, as long as there's enough thread to over tighten. I hope this >> conveys my misunderstanding clearly. >> I'm using the new roller bearings, and the nut is a locknut, rather >> than the original castellated with pin. (Sorry Rich!) >> Thanks for your indulgence...I've been accused of over-thinking >> things before! >> >> Stephen, BJ8 -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ynotink at msn.com Sun Aug 8 22:50:15 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 04:50:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sighting - Creede Colorado Message-ID: Healey Blue BJ8 driving north out of Creede. If it was you, you might have noticed my 57 Land Rover Series I pick-up with no sign of an exhaust flange gasket It was a long Noisy trip home. Bill LawrenceAlbuquerque, NM From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Aug 9 00:30:00 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 08:30:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3BA2195E5EC54FF9B25EA6569F8334F3@tm> Curt, Many thanks!.. :-) I just wanted to add, there is a BSF thread (5/16 x 22) on the brake master cylinder rod too.. :-) _____ From: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 11:42 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] nut type for Smiths heater assembly for BN2 Tadek, As a rule of thumb, a BN1/2 will have three different and distinct thread forms present; Whitworth, mostly BSF and one or two BSW applications, found in the engine, transmission and suspension with changeover to UNF in some of the suspension parts in later cars (BN2s.) Also some BSP (British Standard Pipe - Parallel) applications in the engine. Unified Threads and once again mostly UNF and I can't think of any UNC, mostly in the body and chassis and all miscellaneous applications. UNF is essentially the same as SAE Fine Threads and interchangeable. UNF/UNC fasteners are marked to distinguish them from Whitworth Fasteners, and finally... BA (British Association) found primarily in the Smith's gauges, fuel pumps/sending units, and wiper motors. Be careful however as No. 2BA is very close to a standard UNF/SAE Fine 10/32 thread and a 10/32 nut will thread onto 2BA stud or screw and vice versa. However a 10/32 screw will not thread into a deep 2BA tapped hole. And NO British Association is NOT a Whitworth Thread!!! Cheers, Curt On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 12:03 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: Hello, Anyone knows what is the thread type on the heater motor studs? It's definitely not UNF/UNC.. I lost 2 nuts :-( Best, Tadek From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 9 09:23:09 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:23:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Top Replacement Probs. Again In-Reply-To: <001801cb3631$d1aacc00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001801cb3631$d1aacc00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <041BA7D8-D8D4-4857-9459-D72223E8A712@sbcglobal.net> The top fit you are explaining is normal during installation. Once the top is installed the latch will not hit the to material. It is however very close. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 7, 2010, at 6:09 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > When is a muffler connected to a top install? When the idiot > installer > doesn't tell you to > watch your muffler on his high threshold entry into his shop. > CRUNCH! Great > way to begin a customer relationship, IDIOT. Man was I > pissed. And the > threshold looked like a battle ground from years of previous wipe > outs. He > told me to just pull in the first stall and no warning > mentioned, what was he thinkin. > > Anyway, now that that is off my chest until I can take a good look > at the > damage, here is my > real issue if your still with me. > > First off, why do the "front top hold down latches" release UPWARD > into the > top. How does > that not tear into the top, why didn't the factory install them > releasing > downward.? What were they thinking, or am I missing something here? > > And here is a parts quality question. After the top installer > had the bow > for my 1960 BT7 > attached on the top of the windshield (top not installed yet) he > showed me > how much the release latches stuck out above the wooden bow. So > once the top > is installed he could see how serious wear would take place on the > top from > the latches. We tried my original latches and my new latches and > they both > looked the same way, too high. > > It seems that the counter sunk holes in the Moss header bow are not > in the > perfect location? > > Has this been an issue for anyone else and what is the fix? > Unfortunately I > don't have any remains of my original top stuff or > I would bother you guys with this. > > I will return to the shop after I gather this info and he lowers > his damn > threshold. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 9 17:43:28 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 19:43:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oops Message-ID: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them but I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class section of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Aug 9 18:29:22 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:29:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <657861.22267.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Same as any stuck nut.. heat the outside. Chill the inside.... --- On Mon, 8/9/10, John Sims wrote: > From: John Sims > Subject: [Healeys] Oops > To: "Healey List" > Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 7:43 PM > OK, this is Healey related only > because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a > freezer because I > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she > could save some > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. > She was correct. > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and > separate them but > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged > tightly into the > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them > separated. I do not want > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the > first class section > of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the > perfect size for a > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 9 18:36:45 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:36:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: hot water? On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 4:43 PM, John Sims wrote: > OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I > keep > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them > but > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class > section > of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From wkollar at nycap.rr.com Mon Aug 9 18:46:16 2010 From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 20:46:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oops References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> You might try the dis-similar temperature game by placing the mug with the glass in a warm to hot bath of water being careful not to allow the water to get into the mug. While the mug is in the bath carefully pour a ice and watermix into the martini glass. Let sit for a little while and then attempt to remove the glass. Remember, warm to hot Not boiling water for the bath to reduce the risk of breakage. I wouldn't expect the glass to shrink much but you very well could get an expansion of the mug that would be enough to remove the glass. Ever Wonder ? _bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 7:43 PM Subject: [Healeys] Oops > OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I > keep > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them > but > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class > section > of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 9 18:44:49 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 08:44:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Have you tried putting the mugs in boiling water? On 8/10/10, John Sims wrote: > OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them but > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class section > of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Aug 9 18:58:50 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 17:58:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oops Message-ID: <327512.39804.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Sounds like we should get together at John's to figure out a solution to this problem. I'll take a Grey Goose or Ketel One martini, please! How about refreezing the stuck beer glasses, then wrapping a hot towel around the outside? Might expand the beer glass while the cordial glass stays frozen? Either that or use them for dedicated Irish Car Bomb glasses! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 8/9/10, John Sims wrote: From: John Sims Subject: [Healeys] Oops To: "Healey List" Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 7:43 PM OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them but I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class section of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 9 19:37:19 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:37:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20100809213719.LYP9D.277866.root@pamxwww06-z01> A little WD 40---heck, it works on everything else:) tom ---- John Sims wrote: ============= OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them but I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class section of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 9 19:56:35 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 09:56:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> <4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> Message-ID: Guys, BIG caution here. You won't want to put ice in one glass and boiling water on the outside with a thin cordial glass. best just soak the beer mug in hot water and let a little water in to act as lubricant. some soap on the inside would probably be a good idea. On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 8:46 AM, Bill wrote: > You might try the dis-similar temperature game by placing the mug with the > glass in a warm to hot bath of water being careful not to allow the water to > get into the mug. While the mug is in the bath carefully pour a ice and > watermix into the martini glass. Let sit for a little while and then > attempt to remove the glass. Remember, warm to hot Not boiling water for > the bath to reduce the risk of breakage. > > I wouldn't expect the glass to shrink much but you very well could get an > expansion of the mug that would be enough to remove the glass. > > > Ever Wonder ? > > _bill From mslechta at chartermi.net Mon Aug 9 20:34:22 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 21:34:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net><4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> Message-ID: Is it Friday already?? ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Bill Cc: Healey List Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oops Guys, BIG caution here. You won't want to put ice in one glass and boiling water on the outside with a thin cordial glass. best just soak the beer mug in hot water and let a little water in to act as lubricant. some soap on the inside would probably be a good idea. On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 8:46 AM, Bill wrote: > You might try the dis-similar temperature game by placing the mug with the > glass in a warm to hot bath of water being careful not to allow the water to > get into the mug. While the mug is in the bath carefully pour a ice and > watermix into the martini glass. Let sit for a little while and then > attempt to remove the glass. Remember, warm to hot Not boiling water for > the bath to reduce the risk of breakage. > > I wouldn't expect the glass to shrink much but you very well could get an > expansion of the mug that would be enough to remove the glass. > > > Ever Wonder ? > > _bill _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 10 01:33:12 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 09:33:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C6100B8.1050902@chello.nl> John, Put the beer mug in hot water taking care not to immerse it completely as there should not be any hot water on the inside. The mug will expand a bit and free the other glass. Kees Oudesluijs John Sims wrote: > OK, this is Healey related only because it involves Healey beer mugs. I keep > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a freezer because I > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that she could save some > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer mugs. She was correct. > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them and separate them but > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are wedged tightly into the > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them separated. I do not want > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from the first class section > of the now defunct National Airlines and they are the perfect size for a > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 10 08:19:47 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 10:19:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: References: <004801cb381c$ab5a4250$020ec6f0$@verizon.net> <4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> Message-ID: <00ca01cb3897$16f0d450$44d27cf0$@verizon.net> Thanks all! That did it. John From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 9:57 PM To: Bill Cc: John Sims; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oops Guys, BIG caution here. You won't want to put ice in one glass and boiling water on the outside with a thin cordial glass. best just soak the beer mug in hot water and let a little water in to act as lubricant. some soap on the inside would probably be a good idea. On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 8:46 AM, Bill wrote: You might try the dis-similar temperature game by placing the mug with the glass in a warm to hot bath of water being careful not to allow the water to get into the mug. While the mug is in the bath carefully pour a ice and watermix into the martini glass. Let sit for a little while and then attempt to remove the glass. Remember, warm to hot Not boiling water for the bath to reduce the risk of breakage. I wouldn't expect the glass to shrink much but you very well could get an expansion of the mug that would be enough to remove the glass. Ever Wonder ? _bill From pete_groh at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 08:56:26 2010 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 07:56:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Keys and Ignition Switch - Question on wireing or bad switch In-Reply-To: <8CD0647AF85DCF7-E3C-54FD@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <464145.79950.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Norman Pete here. I have posted the question to the Healey list. If you should need a new switch per any feedback, I do have one NOS ignition switch, also used. Send any replies to Norman, or I will forward the information. Kind regards Pete Groh (KeyGuy) --- On Mon, 8/9/10, nec090362 at aol.com wrote: From: nec090362 at aol.com Subject: Keys and Ignition Switch To: pete_groh at yahoo.com Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 10:05 PM Hi Pete, I purchase some keys from you for a Austin Healey 1967 BJ8 - I have discovered that the ingnition light is on permanently when the battery is connected - also the fuel pump will run when the battery is connected reagrdless of whether I have a key in. I think it may be a switch problem - do you supply these and any help in finding out if this is the case. I'm basically using the battery switch as the ignition switch and the key to turn the engine over. Thanks for any help. Norman From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 14:26:18 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 13:26:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil Message-ID: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 10 15:22:21 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:22:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <798526876.1283739.1281475341630.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> 20wt is 'spec,' but you can use pretty much anything you want. BTW, 3-in-1 Oil is 20wt. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Day" To: "healey list" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:26:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] carb oil I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 15:26:43 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:26:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <798526876.1283739.1281475341630.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <803320.72383.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> 3 in 1 thats it --- On Tue, 8/10/10, Bob Spidell wrote: From: Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil To: "Don Day" Cc: "healey list" Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 5:22 PM #yiv1838860064 p {margin:0;} 20wt is 'spec,' but you can use pretty much anything you want. BTW, 3-in-1 Oil is 20wt. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Day" To: "healey list" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:26:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] carb oil I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue Aug 10 15:27:26 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:27:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD06E9F6DC5C6F-25F8-2DC4@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> Don, I Googled dashpot oil and came up with this site. The suggest 20w oil. http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Don Day To: healey list Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 4:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] carb oil I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Aug 10 15:28:26 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:28:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil Message-ID: <13499045.1281475706969.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net> 20wt -----Original Message----- >From: Don Day >Sent: Aug 10, 2010 4:26 PM >To: healey list >Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > >I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? > Thanks Don >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net Bob Haskell '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) '80 MBG LE (running?) From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 15:36:23 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:36:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <8CD06E9F6DC5C6F-25F8-2DC4@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then look for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. --- On Tue, 8/10/10, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: From: bighealey3k at aim.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 5:27 PM Don, I Googled dashpot oil and came up with this site. The suggest 20w oil. http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Don Day To: healey list Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 4:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] carb oil I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 10 15:55:12 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:55:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <247230006.1285574.1281477312262.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Or buy a cheap 5/8" socket and cut a slot in it with a cutoff tool. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then look for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 16:12:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:12:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?carb_oil?= Message-ID: <4c61cea1.0f79e50a.6d50.76e2@mx.google.com> Cut a slot in a spark plug socket Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Don Day" Date: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 2:36 pm Subject: [Healeys] carb oil To: , I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then look for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. --- On Tue, 8/10/10, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: From: bighealey3k at aim.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 5:27 PM Don, I Googled dashpot oil and came up with this site. The suggest 20w oil. http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Don Day To: healey list Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 4:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] carb oil I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? Thanks Don _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 16:12:51 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:12:51 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <8CD06E9F6DC5C6F-25F8-2DC4@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Your local snap on dealer will have that socket - it's quite useful! On 8/11/10, Don Day wrote: > I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then > look > for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start > the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the > temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I > wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. > > --- On Tue, 8/10/10, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: > > > From: bighealey3k at aim.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 5:27 PM > > > > Don, I Googled dashpot oil and came up with this site. The suggest 20w > oil. > http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Day > To: healey list > Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 4:26 pm > Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > > > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? > Thanks Don > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Aug 10 16:25:26 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:25:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench In-Reply-To: <247230006.1285574.1281477312262.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <247230006.1285574.1281477312262.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: One should check which wrench they want to sacrifice before doing the deed. The swing is pretty limited as I recall. One might need a C type curved wrench. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:55 PM To: Don Day Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil Or buy a cheap 5/8" socket and cut a slot in it with a cutoff tool. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then look for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com From bighealey at charter.net Tue Aug 10 16:31:43 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:31:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil Message-ID: <1480102233.1022727.1281479503374.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Don some folks cut a socket to use to tighten that temp sending unit. On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 2:36 PM, Don Day wrote: > I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it > back,then look > for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to > start > the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up > the > temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot > needed.I > wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. > --- On Tue, 8/10/10, bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: > > > From: bighealey3k at aim.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 5:27 PM > > > > Don, I Googled dashpot oil and came up with this site. The suggest > 20w oil. http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Day > To: healey list > Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 4:26 pm > Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > > > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? > 30wt? > Thanks Don > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From pennell at cox.net Tue Aug 10 18:50:19 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:50:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100810205019.1EGR6.1400104.imail@eastrmwml31> Ken, It will need to be cut to about 4-5 inches length. Also a 12 point not a 6 point. Keith ---- "Freese wrote: > One should check which wrench they want to sacrifice before doing the deed. > The swing is pretty limited as I recall. One might need a C type curved > wrench. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:55 PM > To: Don Day > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > > Or buy a cheap 5/8" socket and cut a slot in it with a cutoff tool. > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will bring it back,then look > for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I am ready to start > the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the > temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 craws foot needed.I > wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That would work. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 18:56:42 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:56:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench In-Reply-To: <20100810205019.1EGR6.1400104.imail@eastrmwml31> Message-ID: <124689.63093.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I went to Auto Zone,they had a 5/8 O2 sensor,but sold out,will get more next week.Don't they know I want to start my car now?Pep Boys didn't even list it .sears had a 3" 5/8 wrench I will try. --- On Tue, 8/10/10, pennell at cox.net wrote: > From: pennell at cox.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] temp sender wrench > To: "Don Day" , "Freese, Ken" , "Bob Spidell" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Date: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 8:50 PM > Ken, > > It will need to be cut to about 4-5 inches length. > Also a 12 point not a 6 point. > > Keith > > ---- "Freese wrote: > > One should check which wrench they want to sacrifice > before doing the deed. > > The swing is pretty limited as I recall. One might > need a C type curved > > wrench. > > Ken Freese > > 65 BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:55 PM > > To: Don Day > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > > > > Or buy a cheap 5/8" socket and cut a slot in it with a > cutoff tool. > > > > bs > > > > -------------------------------- > > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > > > I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt,I will > bring it back,then look > > for a place that sells 20wt.In the mean time I used 3 at 1.I > am ready to start > > the motor up,I put anti-freeze in and I found that I > didn't tighten up the > > temperature sending probe that goes into the block.5/8 > craws foot needed.I > > wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket?That > would work. > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese at aerojet.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 10 19:07:34 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:07:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of University Motors in Mich. This makes up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved over 40 years of service. The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. Hey, I'm just the messenger. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Day" To: "healey list" Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:26 PM Subject: [Healeys] carb oil >I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? >30wt? > Thanks Don > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From britcrs at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 19:41:42 2010 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:41:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: John recommends 90 wt gear oil which is more like 30 wt motor oil Marv J On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 6:07 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of > University Motors in Mich. This makes > up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved over 40 > years of service. > > The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. > > Hey, I'm just the messenger. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Day" > To: "healey list" > Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:26 PM > Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > > > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? >> 30wt? >> Thanks Don >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 20:07:13 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 10:07:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I generally respect John Twist but I don't agree with him here. All this will do is slow the rise of the piston, making your mixture richer when you accelerate, causing you to ruin your fuel mileage, especially if you have a led foot. If your car isn't hiccuping when you stomp on the gas, then there is no reason to switch from 20wt to heavy gear oil. The only wear that will happen where oil weight might make a difference is with the dashpot dampers. Since these things are easily replaced new, you're better off getting new (matched) dampers and sticking with 20wt. Incidentally, 90 wt gear oil is the same as 40 to 50 wt motor oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 Alan On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of > University Motors in Mich. This makes > up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved over 40 > years of service. > > The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. > > Hey, I'm just the messenger. > > Mark From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 10 20:38:29 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:38:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <8CD06E9F6DC5C6F-25F8-2DC4@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> <68517.15839.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C620D25.1000001@justbrits.com> << Your local snap on dealer will have that socket - it's quite useful! >> Absolutely Alan & true !! For those of you that see the Mac, Cornwall or Matco chaps more often - them also. << Don some folks cut a socket to use to tighten that temp sending unit. >> Larry etal, whilst true & does work be SURE to use a hose clamp - widest possible - towards end of said socket other- wise it WILL slip and.or fracture the rest of the way to end. Worm-drive types or best. Personally, I MUCH prefer my Snap-On on as if I break it my Dealer hands me a brand spanking NEW one N/C !! Expensive to start with but that warrentee is worth it !! GOOD tools are never 'expensive' even for the "hobbyist". At times I bought nothing [he collected Revolving Account EVERY -almost - week]; other times I would purchase ONLY a socket/screwdriver/driver bit/wrench. That's how my tools GREW [and grew & grew ] !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 10 20:43:12 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:43:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C620E40.30102@justbrits.com> << I generally respect John Twist but I don't agree with him here. >> I am ABSOLUTELY with you, Alan !!! PERIOD !! From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 10 20:43:07 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 19:43:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: mystery marvel oil in the dashpods has worked for me for over 35 years On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 7:07 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > I generally respect John Twist but I don't agree with him here. All this > will do is slow the rise of the piston, making your mixture richer when you > accelerate, causing you to ruin your fuel mileage, especially if you have a > led foot. If your car isn't hiccuping when you stomp on the gas, then > there > is no reason to switch from 20wt to heavy gear oil. > > The only wear that will happen where oil weight might make a difference is > with the dashpot dampers. Since these things are easily replaced new, > you're better off getting new (matched) dampers and sticking with 20wt. > > Incidentally, 90 wt gear oil is the same as 40 to 50 wt motor oil: > > > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 > > < > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 > > > Alan > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Mark LaPierre >wrote: > > > Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of > > University Motors in Mich. This makes > > up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved over 40 > > years of service. > > > > The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. > > > > Hey, I'm just the messenger. > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 10 20:52:31 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:52:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench In-Reply-To: <124689.63093.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <124689.63093.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C62106F.5000809@justbrits.com> << .sears had a 3" 5/8 wrench I will try. >> DO NOT, Don !!! It will not go on correctly and you endanger the fitting !! And as a side note, there is not a chance in Hell [Michigan that is] I would even attempt using a non-quality like that from PepBoys, AutoZone, Advance, etc. on anything I own. IIRC NAPA handles S& K or something with some quality, but still......... RIGHT tool for the job - ALWAYS !! And in this [your] case a socket is 1000% better !!! Do you really want to fubar your Healey after all you've done?? Ed From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue Aug 10 21:22:48 2010 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:22:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Monterey Message-ID: <450191.48207.qm@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Listers Anyone going to Monterey this weekend? I have an extra three day ticket at cut rate price. If interested call me on my cell (213) 944-3167. I'll be at the track from Wednesday afternoon on. Ray From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue Aug 10 21:42:25 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:42:25 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Monterey In-Reply-To: <450191.48207.qm@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <450191.48207.qm@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF7E74A3@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Ray We were going to wave the Oz flag, but unfortunately you will have to get along without us. Please send photos of any AHs running. Perhaps next year. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ray Juncal Sent: Wednesday, 11 August 2010 1:23 PM To: List Healey Subject: [Healeys] Monterey Listers Anyone going to Monterey this weekend? I have an extra three day ticket at cut rate price. If interested call me on my cell (213) 944-3167. I'll be at the track from Wednesday afternoon on. Ray _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 10 23:22:05 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 07:22:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C62337D.9030604@chello.nl> 3 in 1 oil, ATF or special dashpot oil. Kees Oudesluijs NL Don Day wrote: > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? > Thanks Don > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 10 23:58:10 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:58:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the foot well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like this in? It's not be too difficult. What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic issues like this? John Spaur '62 BT7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 11 00:08:47 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 23:08:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench In-Reply-To: <20100810205019.1EGR6.1400104.imail@eastrmwml31> References: <20100810205019.1EGR6.1400104.imail@eastrmwml31> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810230616.020acaf0@pop.att.yahoo.com> You may need a band clamp to limit spreading of the bottom of the tool cut. We could debate 12 pt. versus 6 pt. which provides a better grip but limits wrench movement. John At 08:50 PM 8/10/2010 -0400, you wrote: >Ken, > >It will need to be cut to about 4-5 inches length. Also a 12 point >not a 6 point. > >Keith From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Wed Aug 11 01:59:29 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:59:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Why, when Moss is selling new ones. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 Sprite On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 10:58 PM, john spaur wrote: > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the foot well, > and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like this in? It's not be > too difficult. > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic issues > like this? > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 04:17:58 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 03:17:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> Do what you like. Fix or replace as you wish. We have the standards as stated ad naseum in previous posts. Get the concourse guide and decide yourself. Cheers. Its your time/ money I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:58 PM, john spaur wrote: > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the > foot well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like > this in? It's not be too difficult. > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > issues like this? > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Aug 11 05:13:45 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:13:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <50CCFFD1B9C6424389383F7A13A03446011D360BE808@HE101451.emea1.cds.t-internal.com> If they are otherwise good usable original parts I fill flaws like these with lead before painting. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:58 PM, john spaur wrote: > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the foot > well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like this in? > It's not be too difficult. > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > issues like this? > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 05:19:38 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:19:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> Message-ID: These types of things only matter if you are planning on having your car judged to the US Healey concours standards. Otherwise irrelevant to value etc, etc. Tanner's cars are bought by investors not Healey people. imho Derek On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 12:17 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Do what you like. Fix or replace as you wish. We have the standards as > stated ad naseum in previous posts. Get the concourse guide and decide > yourself. > Cheers. Its your time/ money > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > > On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:58 PM, john spaur wrote: > > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the foot >> well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like this in? It's >> not be too difficult. >> What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic issues >> like this? >> >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 11 06:13:04 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:13:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CD0765AF2B3AD5-3080-8A75@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> What color did you paint them? Gary Hodson So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the > foot well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like > this in? It's not be too difficult. > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > issues like this? From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 11 08:41:16 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 07:41:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Radios for sale Message-ID: <79020.11904.qm@web34507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Good morning fellow listers, I have two (2) radios for sale. Both are 12v, positive ground. The first one is a BMC that was in my BJ8, when I took it out it was working. It also will be sold with the mounting plate for the loudspeaker. The second radio is a new, never used Motorola. This radio will fit into the radio opening on the Healey. This radio will also work on the early Ford's, prior to 1955 if my memory serves me correctly. If amy interest please contact me off list. Thanks and have great day. John Gillespie From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Aug 11 08:51:32 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 07:51:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] temp sender wrench & Carb Oil In-Reply-To: <124689.63093.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <435248.81544.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Good Day Don; May I suggest a visit to the old SOL site is in order. [Scions of Lucas] While many of the links are long gone, there is a lot of good information that remains. Two General Sites are: Austin Healey http://www.team.net/www/healey/ LBC Tech http://www.team.net/sol/tech/ Specific to questions asked by Don Day, check out the following: Water Temp Pickup http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/tools/temp_sensor.html LBC Fluids http://www.team.net/sol/tech/fluidcht.html --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- Don Day wrote: << I bought a quart of 30wt,they didn't have 20wt, I will bring it back,then look for a place that sells 20wt. In the mean time I used 3 at 1. I am ready to start the motor up, I put anti-freeze in and I found that I didn't tighten up the temperature sending probe that goes into the block. 5/8 craws foot needed. I wonder if they sell a 5/8 oxygen sensor socket? That would work. >> From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 09:14:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:14:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <8CD0765AF2B3AD5-3080-8A75@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> <699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com> <8CD0765AF2B3AD5-3080-8A75@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: What color should they be? I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 11, 2010, at 5:13 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" wrote: > What color did you paint them? > Gary Hodson > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the > > foot well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like > > this in? It's not be too difficult. > > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > > issues like this? From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Aug 11 14:25:25 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 16:25:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? Message-ID: <20100811.132559.7387.135541@mailpop09.dca.untd.com> Because it is an original part and he wants to............ > Why, when Moss is selling new ones. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 Sprite > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 10:58 PM, john spaur > wrote: > > > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the > foot well, > > and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like this in? > It's not be > > too difficult. > > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > issues > > like this? > > > > John Spaur > > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c630767d10ff65eccdst04duc From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Aug 11 15:02:29 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 17:02:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com><699093BB-A776-41DC-9050-F2A1124FF67C@gmail.com><8CD0765AF2B3AD5-3080-8A75@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <35D4F6A5943E49D2BE3EDE9A3270F6F1@LIFEBOOK> Always black. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 11:14 AM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? > What color should they be? > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Aug 11, 2010, at 5:13 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" > wrote: > >> What color did you paint them? >> Gary Hodson >> So... I painted my heater door outlets, the flapper doors in the > >> foot well, and noticed some pitting. Are people filling flaws like > >> this in? It's not be too difficult. >> > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing about cosmetic > >> issues like this? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 15:41:20 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:41:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don, Once again I'm going to go out on a limb here, and call me doubly crazy but why not order the proper SU dash pot oil from MOSS. *DASH POT OIL*, Part number 220-225 - $7.95. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28867 Seems to me the same advice as with the shock oil question that I gave on 31 July. Folks this is not that hard! Cheers, Curt On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 1:26 PM, Don Day wrote: > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? > 30wt? Thanks Don > On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 12:28 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: Hey Greg, I may be going out on a limb here, and call me crazy but why don't you just order a bottle of lever shock fluid from Moss. *Moss Hydraulic Shock Absorber Fluid* Part number 220-304 - $16.75 for 16 fluid oz. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31456&SortOrder =1 Direct quote from the Moss page listing this item. "Dont risk damaging your shocks with the wrong type of hydraulic oil! Our shock fluid is custom blended for us specifically for British Girling and Armstrong lever action shock absorbers. The durable plastic bottle has a convenient flip-open pouring spout for easy on-the-road shock refills. 16 fluid ounces." Cheers, Curt From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 11 15:42:55 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:42:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <20100811.132559.7387.135541@mailpop09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <131678.54316.qm@web53805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> So why is he asking this question? --- On Wed, 8/11/10, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > From: dwflagg at juno.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? > To: rrengineer at dslextreme.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 4:25 PM > Because it is an original part and he > wants to............ > > > Why, when Moss is selling new ones. > > Mike MacLean > > 56 BN2 > > 60 Sprite > > > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 10:58 PM, john spaur > > > wrote: > > > > > So... I painted my heater door outlets, the > flapper doors in the > > foot well, > > > and noticed some pitting. Are people filling > flaws like this in? > > It's not be > > > too difficult. > > > What are the Tanners, restorers and listers doing > about cosmetic > > issues > > > like this? > > > > > > John Spaur > > > '62 BT7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Penny Stock Jumping 2000% > Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free > today! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c630767d10ff65eccdst04duc > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 11 15:52:51 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:52:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <110073.84725.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Curt, B B B B B B B your not going to far out on that limb,If you are out in your garage ,just about to try and start your motor after 7 years and you have rebuilt a lot of stuff,but guess what ?You forgot to order your SU dash pot oil!What do you do? Check out the list for options.;B B B B B B B B B B B Keep Them Running B B B B B B B B B B B B Don --- On Wed, 8/11/10, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil To: "Don Day" Cc: "healey list" Date: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 5:41 PM Don, Once again I'm going to go out on a limb here, and call me doubly crazy but why not order the proper SU dash pot oil from MOSS.B DASH POT OIL, Part number 220-225 - $7.95. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28867 Seems to me the same advice as with the shock oil question that I gave on 31 July.B Folks this is not that hard! Cheers, Curt On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 1:26 PM, Don Day wrote: I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, 20wt? 30wt? B Thanks Don On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 12:28 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: Hey Greg, I may be going out on a limb here, and call me crazy but why don't you just order a bottle of lever shock fluid from Moss. Moss Hydraulic Shock Absorber Fluid Part number 220-304 - $16.75 for 16 fluid oz. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31456&SortOrder =1 Direct quote from the Moss page listing this item. "Donbt risk damaging your shocks with the wrong type of hydraulic oil! Our shock fluid is custom blended for us specifically for British Girling and Armstrong lever action shock absorbers. The durable plastic bottle has a convenient flip-open pouring spout for easy on-the-road shock refills. 16 fluid ounces." Cheers, Curt From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 11 16:44:32 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:44:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> The viscosity of the oil is not that critical as long as you don't use a 90 wt oil. We have used standard engine oil in the dash pots for years. The oil is there mostly to damper the piston during cruising speeds and also stop the piston form going up to fast upon acceleration. If you use a oil that you use is way to thick the piston will be slow to rise and you will have a little to rich mixture when accelerating. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 10, 2010, at 1:26 PM, Don Day wrote: > I looked in achives but came up short.67BJ-8 carbs,dash pot oil, > 20wt? 30wt? > Thanks Don > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 18:32:27 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 17:32:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: ::: Scratches head::: The mixture would be too rich if the piston rises too slowly? The higher the piston, the thinner the needle cross section at the top of the jet. The thinner the needle cross section the more fuel can be drawn out of the jet. So if too thick oil is used in the dash pots, the pistons will rise slower, This would leave a thicker cross section of needle at the top of the jet, and thus allow less fuel to be drawn into the engine. Seems to me that using too thick an oil would give a lean mixture on a snap throttle opening. What am I missing? Rick On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 3:44 PM, David Nock wrote: > If you use a oil that you use is way to thick the piston will be slow > to rise and you will have a little to rich mixture when accelerating. > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Aug 11 20:20:37 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:20:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: The rate of flow over the bridge will be increased because of the higher vacuum created by the restriction of the piston. Higher flow rate produces a larger drop in pressure at the jet and the fuel flow is increased.. All very simple really.... :) Michael Salter On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 8:32 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > ::: Scratches head::: > The mixture would be too rich if the piston rises too slowly? > The higher the piston, the thinner the needle cross section at the top of > the jet. The thinner the needle cross section the more fuel can be drawn > out of the jet. > So if too thick oil is used in the dash pots, the pistons will rise slower, > This would leave a thicker cross section of needle at the top of the jet, > and thus allow less fuel to be drawn into the engine. > Seems to me that using too thick an oil would give a lean mixture on a snap > throttle opening. > What am I missing? > Rick > > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 3:44 PM, David Nock wrote: > >> If you use a oil that you use is way to thick the piston will be slow >> to rise and you will have a little to rich mixture when accelerating. >> >> >> David Nock >> > > >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca 95205 >> 209-948-8767 >> >> www.britishcarspecialists.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 20:26:50 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:26:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased thickness of the needle due to the piston not rising? Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the venturi vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > The rate of flow over the bridge will be increased because of the > higher vacuum created by the restriction of the piston. > Higher flow rate produces a larger drop in pressure at the jet and the > fuel flow is increased.. > All very simple really.... :) > > Michael Salter > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 8:32 PM, Richard Ewald > wrote: > > ::: Scratches head::: > > The mixture would be too rich if the piston rises too slowly? > > The higher the piston, the thinner the needle cross section at the top of > > the jet. The thinner the needle cross section the more fuel can be drawn > > out of the jet. > > So if too thick oil is used in the dash pots, the pistons will rise > slower, > > This would leave a thicker cross section of needle at the top of the jet, > > and thus allow less fuel to be drawn into the engine. > > Seems to me that using too thick an oil would give a lean mixture on a > snap > > throttle opening. > > What am I missing? > > Rick > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 3:44 PM, David Nock > wrote: > > > >> If you use a oil that you use is way to thick the piston will be slow > >> to rise and you will have a little to rich mixture when accelerating. > >> > >> > >> David Nock > >> > > > > > >> British Car Specialists > >> Stockton Ca 95205 > >> 209-948-8767 > >> > >> www.britishcarspecialists.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From krtaylor at exemail.com.au Wed Aug 11 20:40:57 2010 From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:40:57 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION Message-ID: <001d01cb39c7$cb45b750$0202a8c0@keith> I have 7 overdrive units with various numbers all BN1 - 2 Three have BN1 mounting & centrifugal switch and are numbered : - 28 / 1502 / 002187 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** 28 / 1292 / 7137 Four are BN2 mounting and are numbered : - 28 / 1327 / 1134 28 / 1447 / 005267 28 / 1447 / 12566 28 / 1463 / 002155 Q Which is correct for BN1 & BN2 Q Are they all compatible with Healey Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit Q If from other than Healey what are they from Appreciate assistance Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if I ever finish them From shop at justbrits.com Wed Aug 11 20:58:40 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:58:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] So you "think"... Message-ID: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> ...yer having a bad day whilst on the way to Ortho Doc because back has gotten WORSE almost on 6th anniversary of org. prob !! http://www.justbrits.com/zz/wreck08_11.html At least the guy that RAN a Yield sign at about 10+ OVER posted speed limit jumps out of his Land Cruiser yelling: "I'm sorry !! It was my fault !!" at least 100 times, even to the two [2] Officers that answered call - both LONG time pals !! So ya suppose the guy knew he had a 'prob' when as he volunteered to drive me home was told by the Investigating Officer, "NO, I will be taking Ed home, sir !!" Damned near laughed out loud 'cause the look on the guys face was a Master Card Priceless candidate !!! Ed From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Aug 11 21:10:36 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 20:10:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>, , Message-ID: I just switched to Mystery Oil. I like it. Rich Kahn > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 19:43:07 -0700 > To: healey.nut at gmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > > mystery marvel oil in the dashpods has worked for me for over 35 years > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 7:07 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > > I generally respect John Twist but I don't agree with him here. All this > > will do is slow the rise of the piston, making your mixture richer when you > > accelerate, causing you to ruin your fuel mileage, especially if you have a > > led foot. If your car isn't hiccuping when you stomp on the gas, then > > there > > is no reason to switch from 20wt to heavy gear oil. > > > > The only wear that will happen where oil weight might make a difference is > > with the dashpot dampers. Since these things are easily replaced new, > > you're better off getting new (matched) dampers and sticking with 20wt. > > > > Incidentally, 90 wt gear oil is the same as 40 to 50 wt motor oil: > > > > > > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&i d=48&Itemid=55 > > > > < > > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&i d=48&Itemid=55 > > > > > Alan > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Mark LaPierre > >wrote: > > > > > Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of > > > University Motors in Mich. This makes > > > up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved over 40 > > > years of service. > > > > > > The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. > > > > > > Hey, I'm just the messenger. > > > > > > Mark > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 21:24:19 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 20:24:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] So you "think"... In-Reply-To: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> References: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Dang that stinks. On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:58 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > ...yer having a bad day whilst on the way to Ortho Doc because > back has gotten WORSE almost on 6th anniversary of org. prob !! > > > http://www.justbrits.com/zz/wreck08_11.html > > At least the guy that RAN a Yield sign at about 10+ OVER posted > speed limit jumps out of his Land Cruiser yelling: > > "I'm sorry !! It was my fault !!" at least 100 times, even to the > two [2] Officers that answered call - both LONG time pals !! > > So ya suppose the guy knew he had a 'prob' when as he volunteered to drive > me home was told by the Investigating > Officer, "NO, I will be taking Ed home, sir !!" > > Damned near laughed out loud 'cause the look on the guys face > was a Master Card Priceless candidate !!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 21:24:48 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 20:24:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <001801cb38f1$95289650$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>, , Message-ID: <8F8F6AA4-D4B0-48A4-849D-A72F4E97AB05@gmail.com> As I said been using it for 35 years I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 11, 2010, at 8:10 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I just switched to Mystery Oil. I like it. > Rich Kahn > > > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > > Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 19:43:07 -0700 > > To: healey.nut at gmail.com > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > > > > mystery marvel oil in the dashpods has worked for me for over 35 > years > > > > On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 7:07 PM, Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > > > > I generally respect John Twist but I don't agree with him here. > All this > > > will do is slow the rise of the piston, making your mixture > richer when you > > > accelerate, causing you to ruin your fuel mileage, especially if > you have a > > > led foot. If your car isn't hiccuping when you stomp on the gas, > then > > > there > > > is no reason to switch from 20wt to heavy gear oil. > > > > > > The only wear that will happen where oil weight might make a > difference is > > > with the dashpot dampers. Since these things are easily replaced > new, > > > you're better off getting new (matched) dampers and sticking > with 20wt. > > > > > > Incidentally, 90 wt gear oil is the same as 40 to 50 wt motor oil: > > > > > > > > > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 > > > > > > < > > > http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55 > > > > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Mark LaPierre > > >wrote: > > > > > > > Here's a major switch. 90w is the new choice for John Twist of > > > > University Motors in Mich. This makes > > > > up for the long term wear that most of our carbs have achieved > over 40 > > > > years of service. > > > > > > > > The smell of that stuff forces me to stay with engine oil. > > > > > > > > Hey, I'm just the messenger. > > > > > > > > Mark > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Ira Erbs > > Portland, OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 11 21:32:34 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:32:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] So you "think"... In-Reply-To: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> References: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed - You must solemnly promise to us that you have astro turf in the back of that sexy vehicle. Alan On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 10:58 AM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > ...yer having a bad day whilst on the way to Ortho Doc because > back has gotten WORSE almost on 6th anniversary of org. prob !! > > > http://www.justbrits.com/zz/wreck08_11.html > > At least the guy that RAN a Yield sign at about 10+ OVER posted > speed limit jumps out of his Land Cruiser yelling: > > "I'm sorry !! It was my fault !!" at least 100 times, even to the > two [2] Officers that answered call - both LONG time pals !! > > So ya suppose the guy knew he had a 'prob' when as he volunteered to drive > me home was told by the Investigating > Officer, "NO, I will be taking Ed home, sir !!" > > Damned near laughed out loud 'cause the look on the guys face > was a Master Card Priceless candidate !!! > > Ed From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Aug 11 23:46:44 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:46:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oops In-Reply-To: <4BBCCC56923B4210B6C0A2104BB8B921@billibm> Message-ID: <811282.52297.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> John, You have probably separated them by now ..... but in case not. 1. They are probably stuck by ice between the two tight surfaces - not dis-similar contraction ceofficients. 2. So warm the outer glass with very warm [not boling] water, but not the inner glass. This should melt the ice between the interfering surfaces. 3. It should separate easily - assuming your wife did not jam the two together with an interference fit at room temp. Cheers.... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 RNBmail at yahoo.com --- On Mon, 8/9/10, Bill wrote: > From: Bill > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oops > To: "John Sims" , "Healey List" > Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 5:46 PM > You might try the dis-similar > temperature game by placing the mug with the glass in a warm > to hot bath of water being careful not to allow the water to > get into the mug. While the mug is in the bath > carefully pour a ice and watermix into the martini > glass. Let sit for a little while and then attempt to > remove the glass. Remember, warm to hot Not boiling > water for the bath to reduce the risk of breakage. > > I wouldn't expect the glass to shrink much but you very > well could get an expansion of the mug that would be enough > to remove the glass. > > > Ever Wonder ? > > _bill > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 7:43 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Oops > > > > OK, this is Healey related only because it involves > Healey beer mugs. I keep > > my beer mugs, martini glasses and cordial glasses in a > freezer because I > > like them cold. My wife, God bless her, decided that > she could save some > > room by putting the cordial glasses inside the beer > mugs. She was correct. > > She did save room. I was able to unfreeze most of them > and separate them but > > I still have two in which the cordial glasses are > wedged tightly into the > > beer mugs. Now the question is, how do I get them > separated. I do not want > > to break the cordial glasses as I pilfered them from > the first class section > > of the now defunct National Airlines and they > are the perfect size for a > > martini (I hate the flared martini glasses). > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > http://www.healey6.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Thu Aug 12 00:38:15 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:38:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <328813.64986.qm@web113104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Just try driving without any oil in the dashpots and you will have a terrible flat spot due to the pistons rising without any restriction and giving a weak mixture. I recently was concerned about the pressure I had to exert on the lift pins with 20w50 engine oil, I removed it and replaced it with 3in1 oil and a flat spot on acceleration, I then tried transmission oil, no flat spot and gained about 2 MPG. Don OZ ________________________________ From: Richard Ewald To: Michael Salter Cc: healey list Sent: Thu, 12 August, 2010 12:26:50 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased thickness of the needle due to the piston not rising? Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the venturi vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > The rate of flow over the bridge will be increased because of the > higher vacuum created by the restriction of the piston. > Higher flow rate produces a larger drop in pressure at the jet and the > fuel flow is increased.. > All very simple really.... :) > > Michael Salter > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 8:32 PM, Richard Ewald > wrote: > > ::: Scratches head::: > > The mixture would be too rich if the piston rises too slowly? > > The higher the piston, the thinner the needle cross section at the top of > > the jet. The thinner the needle cross section the more fuel can be drawn > > out of the jet. > > So if too thick oil is used in the dash pots, the pistons will rise > slower, > > This would leave a thicker cross section of needle at the top of the jet, > > and thus allow less fuel to be drawn into the engine. > > Seems to me that using too thick an oil would give a lean mixture on a > snap > > throttle opening. > > What am I missing? > > Rick > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 3:44 PM, David Nock > wrote: > > > >> If you use a oil that you use is way to thick the piston will be slow > >> to rise and you will have a little to rich mixture when accelerating. > >> > >> > >> David Nock > >> > > > > > >> British Car Specialists > >> Stockton Ca 95205 > >> 209-948-8767 > >> > >> www.britishcarspecialists.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 12 01:01:46 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 09:01:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <4C639C5A.2070900@chello.nl> With SU's to increase acceleration we used to use the thinnest oil possible to get the piston up fast and allowing more fuel in. Kees Oudesluijs NL Richard Ewald wrote: > Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased thickness > of the needle due to the piston not rising? > Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the venturi > vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. > > On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < > msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From ah53 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 12 05:33:15 2010 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 04:33:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION In-Reply-To: <001d01cb39c7$cb45b750$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: <707258.51711.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Keith The overdrive from my BN1 car #923 is a 1292 and apart on my work bench ready for reassembly. Joe BN1 #923 Coronet cream BN2 100M BJ8 The Blue bay as per wife and kid --- On Wed, 8/11/10, Keith Taylor wrote: From: Keith Taylor Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 10:40 PM I have 7 overdrive units with various numbers all BN1 - 2 Three have BN1 mounting & centrifugal switch and are numbered : - 28 / 1502 / 002187 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** 28 / 1292 / 7137 Four are BN2 mounting and are numbered : - 28 / 1327 / 1134 28 / 1447 / 005267 28 / 1447 / 12566 28 / 1463 / 002155 Q Which is correct for BN1 & BN2 Q Are they all compatible with Healey Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit Q If from other than Healey what are they from Appreciate assistance Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if I ever finish them _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com From cbaustin at verizon.net Thu Aug 12 07:23:26 2010 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 09:23:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - but LBC Message-ID: Anyone, or anyone knowing anyone, with an interest in an MGTD with many spares, please contact me off-list. Near Pittsburgh. Thanks, CB From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 12 07:58:41 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 07:58:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - but LBC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Also a pretty darn nice one for sale here in Albuq. Owner asking 15k dollars.. Call Paul at 505-228-7656 frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charley Braum Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 7:23 AM To: Spridgets List; Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - but LBC Anyone, or anyone knowing anyone, with an interest in an MGTD with many spares, please contact me off-list. Near Pittsburgh. Thanks, CB _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From buhler at memphisassociates.com Thu Aug 12 08:53:02 2010 From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:53:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Oil Leak Message-ID: <9581cb52a6de4bb18c81ea319852aabd@memphisassociates.com> On my BJ8 overdrive unit, there is oil leaking apparently from the notched drain plug. I have changed the gasket, wrapped Teflon tape around the threads, but there is still oil present on the outside of the plug. Maybe the oil is leaking from another source but appears to come from the plug. Would appreciate your thoughts on this problem. Thanks, Jon From editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 12 09:30:26 2010 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:30:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 552 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD084A6BB10354-1448-465F@webmail-m052.sysops.aol.com> Just try driving without any oil in the dashpots and you will have a terrible flat spot due to the pistons rising without any restriction and giving a weak mixture. Okay, where is rationality when you need it? Here's my take on the question of dash pot oil. 1. There is no single right and correct answer. 2. You can use any oil in the garage or no oil at all. Dash pot oil, 3 in 1, Marvel Mystery, 20 wt, 30 wt. whatever. 3. The viscosity of the oil you do use will affect the engine's response on throttle-on and throttle-off. That's the only reason it's in there. 4. The thicker the oil, the slower the piston movement, hence the slower the response. The car will accelerate more slowly and decelerate more slowly 5. If you're not satisfied with the kind of response you're getting, change the viscosity of the oil you're using accordingly. In my racing MGA, I use no oil at all, because I don't care how smoothly the engine accelerates or decelerates, I want the car to respond and I want it to respond NOW. In my Healey I use Mystery oil because I happen to have it in the garage. It gives me smooth, but reasonably responsive behavior whether speeding up or slowing down. Gary From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 12 09:31:20 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <4C639C5A.2070900@chello.nl> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> <4C639C5A.2070900@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8ACE79D2-712B-47BF-ADF6-3D69C7C5DE3A@sbcglobal.net> By raising the piston to fast you will have a lean mixture. Yes you will be getting more fuel but you are also increasing the size of the venturi which for a short time will lower the low pressure area over the jet. This will inturn cause less fuel to be pulled from the float bowl. By holding the piston down and accelerating, you are increasing the air flow over a smaller area. This inturn increases the low pressure area over the jet and pulls more fuel. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 12, 2010, at 12:01 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > With SU's to increase acceleration we used to use the thinnest oil > possible to get the piston up fast and allowing more fuel in. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Richard Ewald wrote: >> Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased >> thickness >> of the needle due to the piston not rising? >> Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the >> venturi >> vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. >> >> On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < >> msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had > a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Aug 12 09:52:30 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:52:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION In-Reply-To: <001d01cb39c7$cb45b750$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: <833278.61892.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Keith; I can help you a little. Attached is a file with Laycock serial numbers and models for the A-Type overdrive Q If from other than Healey what are they from 28 / 1502 / 002187 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** 28 / 1292 / 7137 28 / 1327 / 1134 28 / 1447 / 005267 28 / 1447 / 12566 28 / 1463 / 002155 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 8/11/10, Keith Taylor wrote: From: Keith Taylor Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 10:40 PM I have 7 overdrive units with various numbers all BN1 - 2 Three have BN1 mounting & centrifugal switch and are numbered : - 28 / 1502 / 002187 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** 28 / 1292 / 7137 Four are BN2 mounting and are numbered : - 28 / 1327 / 1134 28 / 1447 / 005267 28 / 1447 / 12566 28 / 1463 / 002155 Q Which is correct for BN1 & BN2 Q Are they all compatible with Healey Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit Q If from other than Healey what are they from Appreciate assistance Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if I ever finish them From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Aug 12 10:31:26 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 09:31:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION Message-ID: <318824.52528.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Keith; I can help you a little. Attached is a file with Laycock serial numbers and models for the A-Type overdrive. Also is a calculation of the different ratios. The following responses are from them. Q If from other than Healey what are they from 28 / 1502 / 002187 Rover 60, 75, 90 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** ????? factory rebuilt 28 / 1292 / 7137 AH 100 28 / 1327 / 1134 Standard Vanguard 28 / 1447 / 005267 AH 100-6 28 / 1447 / 12566 AH 100-6 28 / 1463 / 002155 Humber Hawk Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit The Laycock overdrive enables the choice of an extra-high overall gear ratio for high speed cruising at lower rpm, thus saving fuel, at the cost of less torque. Q Are they all compatible with Healey Regarding compatibility, I do not know. You will have to get that from a Laycock overdrive expert. :-) --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 8/11/10, Keith Taylor wrote: From: Keith Taylor Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 10:40 PM I have 7 overdrive units with various numbers all BN1 - 2 Three have BN1 mounting & centrifugal switch and are numbered : - 28 / 1502 / 002187 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** 28 / 1292 / 7137 Four are BN2 mounting and are numbered : - 28 / 1327 / 1134 28 / 1447 / 005267 28 / 1447 / 12566 28 / 1463 / 002155 Q Which is correct for BN1 & BN2 Q Are they all compatible with Healey Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit Q If from other than Healey what are they from Appreciate assistance Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if I ever finish them [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Serial] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Ratios.pdf] From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Thu Aug 12 10:53:33 2010 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:53:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <8ACE79D2-712B-47BF-ADF6-3D69C7C5DE3A@sbcglobal.net> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> <4C639C5A.2070900@chello.nl> <8ACE79D2-712B-47BF-ADF6-3D69C7C5DE3A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <001501cb3a3e$e7db8da0$b792a8e0$@net> To add to what David said. Variables that effect piston response. 1.Dash pot spring. There are several available. Mk 1 Sprite had none at all. 2.Viscosity of dashpot oil. 3.Friction between piston shaft and dashpot. The latest HIF44 uses a ball bearing. 4.I am not positive, but I suspect that the diameter of the damper plunger, the brass slug on the end of dashpot cap, is a tunable item. Check the cap for a part #. All these items combined to generate a mixture curve under acceleration. If you have a modified engine, cam, CR, ported head, etc. you may have to tune this curve as well. Herb Miller -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 10:31 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil By raising the piston to fast you will have a lean mixture. Yes you will be getting more fuel but you are also increasing the size of the venturi which for a short time will lower the low pressure area over the jet. This will inturn cause less fuel to be pulled from the float bowl. By holding the piston down and accelerating, you are increasing the air flow over a smaller area. This inturn increases the low pressure area over the jet and pulls more fuel. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 12, 2010, at 12:01 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > With SU's to increase acceleration we used to use the thinnest oil > possible to get the piston up fast and allowing more fuel in. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Richard Ewald wrote: >> Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased >> thickness >> of the needle due to the piston not rising? >> Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the >> venturi >> vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. >> >> On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < >> msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had > a name of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3 at qwest.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 12 10:56:00 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 16:56:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] So you "think"... In-Reply-To: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> References: <4C636360.8050903@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Me? Think? Not often enough! Odd plate for an El? People will be taking the "AH" and the "BJ" out of context. I'm the person in my family with the least amount of Spanish knowledge, ( 'tequila' is just about it for me. ) but it just dawned on me that "el camino" sounded Spanish. So I looked up camino and it means "road". I assume that "el" might be "the" ... so do you figure someone told that other driver to "hit the road"? "Yield"? It means "yield"? I 'yelled' every time I went through one of those. No wonder ... ;) What did you figure the other driver figured the officer was taking you home for? Seriously though ... that's unfortunate. I know you liked that thing. Hopefully you didn't get injured worse than what you were. > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:58:40 -0500 > > ...yer having a bad day whilst on the way to Ortho Doc because > back has gotten WORSE almost on 6th anniversary of org. prob !! > > > http://www.justbrits.com/zz/wreck08_11.html > > At least the guy that RAN a Yield sign at about 10+ OVER posted > speed limit jumps out of his Land Cruiser yelling: > > "I'm sorry !! It was my fault !!" at least 100 times, even to the > two [2] Officers that answered call - both LONG time pals !! > > So ya suppose the guy knew he had a 'prob' when as he volunteered to > drive me home was told by the Investigating > Officer, "NO, I will be taking Ed home, sir !!" > > Damned near laughed out loud 'cause the look on the guys face > was a Master Card Priceless candidate !!! > > Ed From britcrs at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 11:45:38 2010 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:45:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - but LBC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Or a really nice one available in Tucson Marv J On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Dave Porter wrote: > Also a pretty darn nice one for sale here in Albuq. Owner asking 15k > dollars.. > Call Paul at 505-228-7656 > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Charley Braum > Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 7:23 AM > To: Spridgets List; Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Off-Topic - but LBC > > Anyone, or anyone knowing anyone, with an interest in an MGTD with many > spares, please contact me off-list. > > Near Pittsburgh. > > Thanks, > > CB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs at gmail.com From steveg at abrazosdata.com Thu Aug 12 12:22:50 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:22:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Oil Message-ID: <001001cb3a4b$60030540$20090fc0$@com> Concurring with Mike Salter, At a recent dyno session, APT (www.aptfast.com) Advanced Performance Technology stated that heavier dashpot oil creates more velocity and a richer mixture on acceleration. They are big fans of swapping the piston-return springs out to the next heavier color. They said the combination of the spring stiffness and oil thickness comprises the acceleration circuit in the SU. Speculating here - it seems as though the oil would only affect mixture during acceleration, whereas a heavier spring would keep the piston slightly further down all the time against a given vacuum. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA, USA BN6 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Richard Ewald > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healey list > Sent: Thu, 12 August, 2010 12:26:50 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil Yes but does that higher flow rate more than offset the increased thickness of the needle due to the piston not rising? Venturi vacuum is very weak, and I can't see where even if the venturi vacuum doubled it would overcome the lack of jet area. On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Michael Salter < msalter at precisionsportscar.com > wrote: > The rate of flow over the bridge will be increased because of the > higher vacuum created by the restriction of the piston. > Higher flow rate produces a larger drop in pressure at the jet and the > fuel flow is increased.. > All very simple really.... :) > > Michael Salter From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 12 13:10:38 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:10:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <001501cb3a3e$e7db8da0$b792a8e0$@net> References: <667784.78270.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41BAB5D5-679A-4F06-939F-CA18E1DD54CF@sbcglobal.net> <4C639C5A.2070900@chello.nl> <8ACE79D2-712B-47BF-ADF6-3D69C7C5DE3A@sbcglobal.net> <001501cb3a3e$e7db8da0$b792a8e0$@net> Message-ID: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> Many of the early SU carbs did not have a spring, instead they had a heavy brass piston instead. The springs also vary in strength Also the dampers vary in the amount of oil they let bypass thus controlling the rate the piston moves. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 12, 2010, at 9:53 AM, Herbert Miller wrote: > To add to what David said. > Variables that effect piston response. > 1.Dash pot spring. There are several available. Mk 1 Sprite had > none at all. > 2.Viscosity of dashpot oil. > 3.Friction between piston shaft and dashpot. The latest HIF44 uses > a ball > bearing. > 4.I am not positive, but I suspect that the diameter of the damper > plunger, > the brass slug on the end of dashpot cap, is a tunable item. Check > the cap > for a part #. > > All these items combined to generate a mixture curve under > acceleration. If > you have a modified engine, cam, CR, ported head, etc. you may have > to tune > this curve as well. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Aug 12 18:41:01 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 20:41:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OVERDRIVE IDENTIFICATION In-Reply-To: <833278.61892.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <833278.61892.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Keith, Not sure if the question re the 22% was answered for you. The 28 in the numbers refer to the 28% overdrive ratio, while of course the 22 refers to a 22% over drive ratio. Therefore for highway speeds, the 28% will rev somewhat slower for a given MPH, giving better fuel economy. These sun and planetary gear sets in the A-Type units can be swapped out of one unit and installed complete into another to give a preferred final drive ratio. Rich > From: Keith Taylor > I have 7 overdrive units with various numbers all BN1 - 2 > > Three have BN1 mounting & centrifugal switch and are numbered : - > 28 / 1502 / 002187 > 22 / 61711 / 028383 ** > 28 / 1292 / 7137 > > Four are BN2 mounting and are numbered : - > 28 / 1327 / 1134 > 28 / 1447 / 005267 > 28 / 1447 / 12566 > 28 / 1463 / 002155 > > > Q Which is correct for BN1 & BN2 > Q Are they all compatible with Healey > Q What is the result of using the 22% ** unit > Q If from other than Healey what are they from > > Appreciate assistance > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2 > 100M.......if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 12 19:10:05 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 01:10:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless Message-ID: Someone let most of the smoke out of my Subaru and my Healey. For those who like the story ( others skip to the next paragraph ) The day before yesterday, I drove my subaru home from work and parked it on my driveway. I later restarted it and moved it a few inches. Then I took Carmen out to the local Healey group meeting and to make a long story somewhat shorter, drove home in the dark. For those following the angle drive story, the tunnel was loose. ( not screwed down ) Wonderful. Parked it in it's usual spot in the garage. Next morning, (yesterday ) I go out and attempt to start the 'ru. Turns over great, but no sign of catching. Drive the Healey to work. Despite having 'Healey hair' all was good. Drive home. Try the 'ru. No go. Rush my daughter to her volunteer event in Carmen. Return home and button down the Healey gearbox tunnel. When it's time to go pick her up I joke to my wife, "the way my day's been going, the Healey's headlights won't work". Scary! They didn't. I tried for a bit to wiggle the switch and check the manual for suggestions, swap fuses, etc, to no avail. I noticed the time and borrowed the neighbour's car. Next morning, (today) try the 'ru again. Call a service station to arrange for 'ru repair. Start the Healey and drive away, ... to the first turn ... when the signal lights didn't work. I thought, what the heck, I can do hand signals, it's a convertible, even if they don't understand the signal, they'll figure something's going on. But, then I thought ... maybe no brake lights and I turned back into the neighbourhood and bring it back to my garage, where it is confirmed. Call a cab. Return home in a cab. 4 roadworthy cars, 2 disabled and the other 2 not road insured and battery-less. I managed to get the signal and brake lights back ( and fuel gauge ) by swapping back the fuse. just the facts: My headlights/taillights fail to work after having used them the night before. Following that drive, I reattached the gearbox tunnel. I'm challenged in the electrical dept. Fuses appear to be good. I followed the wires from one headlight back to the fuse box, with no apparent smoke release holes. Same for under dash. As I write this, I realise that I didn't check tail light wires behind the gearbox. I'll also confess that I haven't consulted the schematic ... yet. I did crawl under the car to see if somehow I might have compromised a wire with the screws. I don't think that that's a possibility, ... except 'possibly', the wire(s) from the gearbox that goes up behind that panel fore of the tunnel. Where do I start? Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 12 20:32:57 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration - how anal? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100810225321.01fe4680@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100811224139.02008158@pop.att.yahoo.com> Well... the replies are very interesting! In summary: Black paint (I used chassis black) Do nothing because it is hard to see (except for concours judging) It's an original part in great condition Fill in the pits with copper plating, filler/paint (easy!) or lead (an acquired skill!!) I asked because this can apply to the shock bodies and may other parts and I was curious to know what people are doing. We have such a huge range of options for finishing every aspect of our cars! Thanks to everyone!! At 10:58 PM 8/10/2010 -0700, john spaur wrote: >So... I painted my heater door outlets.... From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 12 21:18:01 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 11:18:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Robert - Electrical connections on any Healey can be prone to microscopic films of corrosion on terminals, connectors, screws and wires. It sounds to me that you simply have a few problems with how stuff is connected. I would check the following: 1) All lights in the front of the car and your wiper use a common ground. If that wire is not grounded properly, that could be your problem. I don't remember where that circuit is grounded on the car, but you can put a jumper at any of the lights where it is convenient and it will flow through the rest of the circuit. 2) If the brake lights aren't working, that suggests the 5-way connector (located somewhere under the fusebox/OD throttle relay) probably needs to be taken apart and put back together. This is pretty easily done. 3) The Brown wire that goes from the control box/voltage relay (B terminal?) to the fuse box may not be connecting properly. unconnect and reconnect the terminals to see if that helps. Generally speaking if you disconnect and reconnect all terminals / unscrew/rescrew all connections in the various circuits, you should be able to get it all working again. This really doesn't take much time and even a complete novice can do this. You'll find after you've done this once or twice, and you drive your car regularly, you won't have any further problems. Alan On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 9:10 AM, wrote: > Someone let most of the smoke out of my Subaru and my Healey. > > > > For those who like the story ( others skip to the next paragraph ) > > just the facts: > > My headlights/taillights fail to work after having used them the night > before. > Following that drive, I reattached the gearbox tunnel. I'm challenged in > the > electrical dept. Fuses appear to be good. I followed the wires from one > headlight back to the fuse box, with no apparent smoke release holes. Same > for under dash. As I write this, I realise that I didn't check tail light > wires behind the gearbox. I'll also confess that I haven't consulted the > schematic ... yet. I did crawl under the car to see if somehow I might > have > compromised a wire with the screws. I don't think that that's a > possibility, > ... except 'possibly', the wire(s) from the gearbox that goes up behind > that > panel fore of the tunnel. > > > > Where do I start? From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Aug 13 03:31:54 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 11:31:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Message-ID: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> Hello, Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. (I have the instruments rebuild) Best, Tadek From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Aug 13 03:33:34 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 11:33:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Message-ID: <1E6F8A2F9D4B41039A29AAF0C32FB0AE@tm> Does anyone re-print the black on the ID tags? I want to keep the old ID tag, just print the text on it again.. Preferably in Europe.... Best, Tadek From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 04:49:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:49:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> Message-ID: Hi Tadek - Apparently these people have complete new sets for not that much money: http://www.ottoinstruments.com.au/ but apparently they are hard to get a hold of. Alan On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:31 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > (I have the instruments rebuild) > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 05:53:16 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 04:53:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BT7 for sale in CA: f11,000 In-Reply-To: References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> Message-ID: <61172.1655.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> email posted just this morning >>> http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=456 From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 06:30:48 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:30:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> List; After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; - All is well, - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), - The carbs are set way too rich, - low fuel pressure, or - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. Greg From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 06:59:28 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:59:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg - That's too deep for sure. You are probably running rich. When you are lifting the piston to set mixture, how far are your lifting? I notice many people lift the pistons far too high (e.g. 1/8") , giving incorrect readings. I like to lift the piston by hand using a small flat head screwdriver with a long shaft inserted directly in the venturi chamber. I only lift the piston 1/32" to 1/16" ... adjusting from that will get your mixture much more accurate. Also, did you replace your throttle shaft bushes? If air is leaking there that will cause the carb to run lean. Alan On 8/13/10, Greg Mandas wrote: > List; > > After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally > whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting > process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering > if this is an indication of; > - All is well, > - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), > - The carbs are set way too rich, > - low fuel pressure, or > - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From warthodson at aol.com Fri Aug 13 07:03:33 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:03:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey badge & Lunney Message-ID: <8CD08FF116AFDA5-D78-ADC8@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> I would like to purchase an original Austin-Healey winged badge as found on 100's up to but not including MKII 3000's. The enameling needs to be in excellent condition & the chrome only needs to be good enough that I can have it rechromed. Also, I need Dick Lunney's email address. Thanks, Gary Hodson From rpschauss at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 07:13:24 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:13:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 3/8ths sounds a bit low when you consider that the normal starting point for adjusting the jets is one turn down. If you had to run the jets down 3/8" to get the mixture right I am surprised that the car ran at all with the jets at the top. Did you test the mixture by lifting the dashpots? Are the float levels correct? HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > List; > > After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; > - All is well, > - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), > - The carbs are set way too rich, > - low fuel pressure, or > - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. > > Greg From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 13 07:27:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 06:27:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C654829.8090205@comcast.net> Greg, Sounds like you're not sure the carbs are actually adjusted. If you're sure the mixture is correct--and the fuel is below the top of the jets--then it's likely your float levels are too low. The needles that come in the kits are STD, and should be OK unless the engine is highly modified. Where is the fuel level--with the pump on--WRT the top of the jet? It needs to be below the top of the jet. Generally, the top of the jet should be 1/16"-1/8" below the throttle throat bridge, and the fuel level should be about the same below the top of the jet. I've tried every recommended way to adjust carbs--including using an exhaust gas analyzer--and in my opinion Colortunes work the best (unless you have a dyno). With Colortunes--I have two--you can not only get the mixture right, but you can confirm that you're getting a rich mixture when you open the throttles (I haven't tried it, but you might be able to assess the effects of the different oils that get recommended for the dashpots). You can also get an idea of the spark quality and consistency, at least in the cylinders you're looking at. One other thing. Are your needles set properly in the vacuum piston? Some needles have a shoulder, which must be level with the bottom of the piston, but all the ones I've seen have a groove. The top of the groove should be level with the bottom of the piston--to me, this is counterintuitive--and this can have a larger-than-you'd-think effect on mixture setting. bs Greg Mandas wrote: > List; > > After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; > - All is well, > - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), > - The carbs are set way too rich, > - low fuel pressure, or > - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 13 07:27:18 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:27:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless Message-ID: <82CDA4D0842E4A6EA169408EEAE33ECF@LIFEBOOK> Robert, Running around with a loose metal gearbox cover on a BN1 that has a centrifugal governor with bare overdrive terminals is just asking for trouble. Get the gearbox cover, the extension panel and bulkhead panel all carefully installed back exactly where they should be. Make sure the overdrive harness that passes between bulkhead and vertical cover panel is not pinched in any way. You'll find a gap in the sealing rubber there where the harness, the speedo cable and the tach cable should all pass through. Make sure they're doing that correctly. Swapping BACK the fuses? Signal and brake lights and fuel gauge all work from the fuse powered when the key is on. The headlight switch is fed full time. I'd check the back of the headlight switch for a bad connection or you may have burned something by shorting out those overdrive terminals with the aluminum gearbox cover. Bottom line, it's not Carmen's fault. (Sorry, people, I know this car and it's a good trustworthy machine until she gets screwed with) Rich From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 13 07:32:48 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:32:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> Message-ID: <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> Tadek, Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge faces and have a particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > Hello, > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > (I have the instruments rebuild) > > Best, Tadek From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 13 07:37:34 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:37:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01cb3aec$b0450fc0$10cf2f40$@rr.com> Greg, the adjusting process starts with the jets flush with the carburetor bridge, but the next step is to screw in (clockwise) the jet adjusting screws 2-1/2 turns (which lowers the jet, enrichens the mixture) as a rough point to get the engine started. The remaining carb adjusting procedures will determine the final position of the jets. See the attached file. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 8:31 AM To: 'healey list' Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments List; After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; - All is well, - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), - The carbs are set way too rich, - low fuel pressure, or - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. Greg [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Aug 13 07:44:29 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:44:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6DE6EAFC6E9B433E9AA6183D34E24E6D@GregPC> Agree with what Allen said, it is much more likely that conductivity has broken down at a terminal or connector than a broken wire. While you are cleaning everything off and reconnecting it don't forget the funky control box towards the front left part of the engine compartment, lots of connections there, brake lights and turn signals both go through that contraption as I recall. Fuses often lose connectivity in the old lucas fuse holders, and don't forget the connections at the bulb/socket, they often get corroded and lead to bad connections as well. Good Luck Don't know what to tell you about the Suburu other than maybe buy reliable British in the future? Greg Lemon From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 07:57:35 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 06:57:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <919122.30433.qm@web54103.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The guys in switzerland are very expensive. Try West Valley Instruments in California. Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Rich C To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz ; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 8:32:48 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Tadek, Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge faces and have a particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > Hello, > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > (I have the instruments rebuild) > > Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From cbaustin at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 08:22:14 2010 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:22:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> <919122.30433.qm@web54103.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: West Valley Auto Electronics Inc at 19314 Vanowen St, Reseda, CA 91335. CB From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Aug 13 08:52:23 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:52:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Message-ID: <20100813.075241.956.152121@mailpop05.dca.untd.com> Right now the exchange rate is about 1 euro = 1.2824 US dollar, which is not that bad. Their prices are not expensive considering the quality of the work. Remember the adage, "You get what you pay for". Quality is worth a couple of extra dineros. IMHO. Doug > The guys in Switzerland are very expensive. Try West Valley > Instruments in > California. > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 > 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Rich C > To: > Tadeusz Malkiewicz ; > Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 8:32:48 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge > refacing > > Tadek, > > Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge > faces and have a > particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. > http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html > > Rich > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM > To: > > Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > > > Hello, > > > > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s > more > > > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > > (I have the > instruments rebuild) > > > > Best, Tadek ____________________________________________________________ "Six Sigma" Certification Enroll in Villanova University's prestigious six sigma certification program - 100% Online http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c655c3d9eb306a8194st03duc From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Aug 13 08:57:07 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 16:57:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <20100813.075241.956.152121@mailpop05.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <7B371339BFE84275AFB4E76FE3CBA907@tm> Still, I wanted just a reface of the tacho & speedo meters and I think (if I remember correctly) they were not too keen to do it.. _____ From: dwflagg at juno.com [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 4:52 PM To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com Cc: richchrysler at quickclic.net; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Right now the exchange rate is about 1 euro = 1.2824 US dollar, which is not that bad. Their prices are not expensive considering the quality of the work. Remember the adage, "You get what you pay for". Quality is worth a couple of extra dineros. IMHO. Doug > The guys in Switzerland are very expensive. Try West Valley > Instruments in > California. > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 > 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Rich C > To: > Tadeusz Malkiewicz ; > Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 8:32:48 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge > refacing > > Tadek, > > Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge > faces and have a > particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. > http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html > > Rich > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM > To: > > Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > > > Hello, > > > > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s > more > > > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > > (I have the > instruments rebuild) > > > > Best, Tadek ____________________________________________________________ Online Six Sigma Training Earn A Six Sigma Master Certificate Today From Villanova University. VillanovaU.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 09:05:38 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?utf-8?B?Sm9zw6kgVmljZW50ZSBWYXJnYXM=?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:05:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <7B371339BFE84275AFB4E76FE3CBA907@tm> References: <7B371339BFE84275AFB4E76FE3CBA907@tm> Message-ID: <342850.55614.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> west valley instruments will do it. Around US$ 120 each. Call them +1 818 758 9500 JosC) Vicente Vargas MusmC) Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net BogotC!, Colombia ________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: dwflagg at juno.com; jvvmusme at yahoo.com Cc: richchrysler at quickclic.net; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 9:57:07 AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Still, I wanted just a reface of the tacho & speedo meters and I think (if I remember correctly) they were not too keen to do itb&. ________________________________ From:dwflagg at juno.com [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 4:52 PM To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com Cc: richchrysler at quickclic.net; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing Right now the exchange rate is about 1 euro = 1.2824 US dollar, which is not that bad. Their prices are not expensive considering the quality of the work. Remember the adage, "You get what you pay for". Quality is worth a couple of extra dineros. IMHO. Doug > The guys in Switzerland are very expensive. Try West Valley > Instruments in > California. > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 > 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Rich C > To: > Tadeusz Malkiewicz ; > Healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 8:32:48 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gauge > refacing > > Tadek, > > Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge > faces and have a > particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. > http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html > > Rich > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM > To: > > Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > > > Hello, > > > > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s > more > > > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > > (I have the > instruments rebuild) > > > > Best, Tadek ____________________________________________________________ Online Six Sigma Training Earn A Six Sigma Master Certificate Today From Villanova University. VillanovaU.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 13 09:48:16 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:48:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3ACB7EA0-E4D0-447E-A0E9-D31ECC24E4EC@sbcglobal.net> That is way to low. If everything is correct they should be approximatly 1/16 down from flush. Even with the choke pulled you will not get 3 / 8. Are you sure you are measuring it correctly. If so you must have the choke pulled out of the choke is suck on. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 13, 2010, at 5:30 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > List; > > After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are > both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. > Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with > the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; > - All is well, > - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), > - The carbs are set way too rich, > - low fuel pressure, or > - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 10:21:04 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 09:21:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Optima Batteries and fake covers In-Reply-To: <3ACB7EA0-E4D0-447E-A0E9-D31ECC24E4EC@sbcglobal.net> References: <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <3ACB7EA0-E4D0-447E-A0E9-D31ECC24E4EC@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <459334.5085.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Any comments on users of optima batteries for a BN2 and the fake covers for the same batteries so they look vintage I have 2 option Tar Toppers each cover is 25 dollars quailservices each cover is 90 dollars All comments are welcomed.... Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: David Nock To: Greg Mandas Cc: healey list Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 10:48:16 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments That is way to low. If everything is correct they should be approximatly 1/16 down from flush. Even with the choke pulled you will not get 3 / 8. Are you sure you are measuring it correctly. If so you must have the choke pulled out of the choke is suck on. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 13, 2010, at 5:30 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > List; > > After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are > both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. > Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with > the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; > - All is well, > - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), > - The carbs are set way too rich, > - low fuel pressure, or > - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From dan at warner-associates.com Fri Aug 13 10:42:49 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 11:42:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting In-Reply-To: <1E6F8A2F9D4B41039A29AAF0C32FB0AE@tm> Message-ID: <0D02FF0FE4D149F6885EFBC4ECED25A6@DANSTROM> Tadeusz: I assume you are referring to the tags on top of the rocker cover. I can tell you that I carefully painted mine 3 times and was not happy with the result and removed the paint each time vowing to get a better job. Taping it off did not work either. I finally opted to leave it original without paint for the judging. The problem is, at least on my original tag, the AUSTIN HEALEY imprinted outline looks like it was stamped by a drunken sailor. I don't care if you are Rembrandt himself, it will not look good. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 4:34 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Does anyone re-print the black on the ID tags? I want to keep the old ID tag, just print the text on it again.. Preferably in Europe.... Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 11:13:20 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:13:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting In-Reply-To: <0D02FF0FE4D149F6885EFBC4ECED25A6@DANSTROM> References: <0D02FF0FE4D149F6885EFBC4ECED25A6@DANSTROM> Message-ID: <689322.67745.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am going to try to reprint mine in a process called silk printing. In order to have a good quality printing process you must do it in silk printing. Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Dan Stromquist To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 11:42:49 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Tadeusz: I assume you are referring to the tags on top of the rocker cover. I can tell you that I carefully painted mine 3 times and was not happy with the result and removed the paint each time vowing to get a better job. Taping it off did not work either. I finally opted to leave it original without paint for the judging. The problem is, at least on my original tag, the AUSTIN HEALEY imprinted outline looks like it was stamped by a drunken sailor. I don't care if you are Rembrandt himself, it will not look good. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 4:34 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Does anyone re-print the black on the ID tags? I want to keep the old ID tag, just print the text on it again.. Preferably in Europe.... Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 13 11:19:07 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 17:19:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: <6DE6EAFC6E9B433E9AA6183D34E24E6D@GregPC> References: , <6DE6EAFC6E9B433E9AA6183D34E24E6D@GregPC> Message-ID: :) I saw that contraption and wondered what the heck it was! I saw lots of goesintas and goesouttas, but what is in it? Thanks! When I was driving in to work in the Healey, an Aston Martin pulled up behind me ( not an extremely common sight around here ) and gave the car the once over, then passed. I was thinking that that's what I should have a s a daily driver. Robert > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > > Agree with what Allen said, it is much more likely that conductivity has > broken down at a terminal or connector than a broken wire. While you are > cleaning everything off and reconnecting it don't forget the funky control > box towards the front left part of the engine compartment, lots of > connections there, brake lights and turn signals both go through that > contraption as I recall. > > Fuses often lose connectivity in the old lucas fuse holders, and don't > forget the connections at the bulb/socket, they often get corroded and lead > to bad connections as well. > > Good Luck > > Don't know what to tell you about the Suburu other than maybe buy reliable > British in the future? > > Greg Lemon From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 13 12:06:24 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:06:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: Well apparently this was too long winded and bounced. Hey Rich! I've been known to ask for trouble before. Combination of redneck tendencies and inexperience. :) "Hey, what could possibly go wrong? Hold my beer and watch this!! Huh, who woulda thought that could happen!" ;) I'm not at the car at the moment, but I don't remember seeing the speedo or tach drive cables there ( no big surprise. I don't remember much. ), but I do recall seeing the wiring passing to the upper left. It's close to the screw. I'll have to check that later. The speedo and tach are operating as before. The OD is functioning. Yes, I swapped the fuses for their spares. ( I didn't swap the 50 with the 35. :)) I have now deduced that the 35 amp fuse 'spare' is non-functional, though it appears to be good visually. I asked myself the question: "What did I do between having signal lights and losing them?" And, I realized that I had changed the fuses, which didn't 'fix' the problem, and then I had neglected to return the fuses back. That got me the signals, gas gauge and brake lights back. With my limited vision with the progressive glasses, I did do a visual and gentle prodding with my fingers under the dash and the back of the headlight in particular and all looks to be attached at the headlight switch and everywhere else that I could see. I'm not blaming her. She doesn't do anything by herself. ( Maybe it's st andreas fault? ;)) So, what did I do?I drove with the headlights on. They were functioning when I shut off them off prior to shutting off the car.I also drove with the tunnel unfastened, but it wasn't 'bouncing around'. There was that extra drive after using the headlights though.I refastened the tunnel right after that drive. I guess that contact with the terminals could have happened at that point ... Does anyone know if those wires would be live with the car shut off? Robert > Robert, > > Running around with a loose metal gearbox cover on a BN1 that has a > centrifugal governor with bare overdrive terminals is just asking for > trouble. Get the gearbox cover, the extension panel and bulkhead panel all > carefully installed back exactly where they should be. Make sure the > overdrive harness that passes between bulkhead and vertical cover panel is > not pinched in any way. You'll find a gap in the sealing rubber there where > the harness, the speedo cable and the tach cable should all pass through. > Make sure they're doing that correctly. > > Swapping BACK the fuses? Signal and brake lights and fuel gauge all work > from the fuse powered when the key is on. The headlight switch is fed full > time. I'd check the back of the headlight switch for a bad connection or you > may have burned something by shorting out those overdrive terminals with the > aluminum gearbox cover. > > Bottom line, it's not Carmen's fault. > > Rich From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 13 12:27:23 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:27:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless Message-ID: Pun intended? :) Like me, she is not without her faults. Her intro to my wife was to fail to start after I shut her off in a parking lot. :) The PO had done a marathon drive from Rich's neck of the woods to Ottawa. ( 6 hours or so? ) I guess the battery connections had worked loose somehow. I found the cause and tightened the battery connections, but the batteries were also flat ... so my wife got lunch out of it while we waited for CAA to arrive. But, I didn't hesitate to take her on a 200 km round trip in the country soon after; nor to go on a second similar trip with the local Healey enthusiasts. Which, as some of you might remember was where I discovered that the heater fan didn't work and that I was unaware that there was both pre and post heater shutoffs when I ventured forth top down with my wife in -4C temps. She has more than a few issues and I hope to get to them all in time. But, yeah, except for the loose battery connections, she starts, she goes, she stops and she gets lots of attention along the way. Maybe she has plans to fix my issues?? :) > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > > Bottom line, it's not Carmen's fault. > > (Sorry, people, I know this car and it's a good trustworthy machine until > she gets screwed with) > > Rich > _______________________________________________ From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 12:33:35 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:33:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting In-Reply-To: <689322.67745.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <0D02FF0FE4D149F6885EFBC4ECED25A6@DANSTROM> <689322.67745.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Silk "screen" printing? Bob Johnson BJ8 On Aug 13, 2010 1:35 PM, "Josi Vicente Vargas" wrote: I am going to try to reprint mine in a process called silk printing. In order to have a good quality printing process you must do it in silk printing. Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Dan Stromquist To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 11:42:49 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Tadeusz: I assume you are referring to the tags on top of the rocker cover. I can tell you that I ... http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/d... From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Fri Aug 13 12:58:26 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:58:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> <1570277A1F0F4865B295446E265F767F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: I'll second that. Andys Healey team has rebuilt several sets of instruments for me. The quality of the workmanship is outstanding. I have never seen anything better! Magnus Karlsson BorC%s Motor Corporation AB www.concourshealeys.com 13 aug 2010 kl. 15:32 skrev "Rich C" : > Tadek, > > Apparently these people can redo your instruments and gauge faces and have a particular section here regarding the Hundred instruments. > http://www.austin-healey.ch/5200.html > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:31 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > >> Hello, >> >> Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more >> silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. >> (I have the instruments rebuild) >> >> Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 13 14:05:53 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 13:05:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting In-Reply-To: References: <0D02FF0FE4D149F6885EFBC4ECED25A6@DANSTROM> <689322.67745.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <530466.97084.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Yes!!!!!! Silk screen printing Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Bob Johnson To: Josi Vicente Vargas Cc: Dan Stromquist ; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 1:33:35 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting Silk "screen" printing? Bob Johnson BJ8 On Aug 13, 2010 1:35 PM, "Josi Vicente Vargas" wrote: > >I am going to try to reprint mine in a process called silk printing. In order >to >have a good quality printing process you must do it in silk printing. >Josi Vicente Vargas >Musmi > > >Tel. (571) 321 3740 >Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 >Skype: >jovivago > > >www.musme.net > > >Bogota, Colombia >________________________________ >From: Dan Stromquist > > >To: Healeys at autox.team.netSent: Fri, August 13, >2010 11:42:49 AM >Subject: Re: [Healeys] ID tag re-preinting > > >Tadeusz: >I assume >you are referring to the tags on top of the rocker cover. I can >tell you that >I ...http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/d... From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 13 14:13:49 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 16:13:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Optima Batteries and fake covers Message-ID: <9FE0C0B26F49440EA761CBD3BC4005B3@LIFEBOOK> Jose, et al, I have been hoping somebody would do these Optima gel cell batteries into a fake 6V Lucas 17L series casing but have not heard of this so far. The other great idea would be to have the second case as a fake empty case where one could store items and run the cables across to the second case and thence to the earth switch to maintain the original appearance. Is somebody doing these now? I have ordered the 12V Group 27 series reproduction Lucas case with Optima batteries inside available from Antique Battery Supply in Ohio for a number of later 6 cylinder cars and they have worked extremely well. They're the best of both worlds, original authentic appearance with modern gel cell technology. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 12:21 PM > To: "healey list" > Subject: [Healeys] Optima Batteries and fake covers > >> Any comments on users of optima batteries for a BN2 and the fake covers >> for >> the >> same batteries so they look vintage >> >> I have 2 option Tar Toppers each >> cover is 25 dollars >> >> quailservices each cover is 90 dollars >> >> All comments are >> welcomed.... >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jose >> Josi Vicente Vargas >> Musmi >> >> >> Tel. (571) 321 3740 >> Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 14:41:15 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 13:41:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Nearly_Smokeless?= Message-ID: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> We talking about the car or your wife? "She has a few issues" Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "robertduquette" Date: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 11:27 am Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless To: "Healeys" Pun intended? :) Like me, she is not without her faults. Her intro to my wife was to fail to start after I shut her off in a parking lot. :) The PO had done a marathon drive from Rich's neck of the woods to Ottawa. ( 6 hours or so? ) I guess the battery connections had worked loose somehow. I found the cause and tightened the battery connections, but the batteries were also flat ... so my wife got lunch out of it while we waited for CAA to arrive. But, I didn't hesitate to take her on a 200 km round trip in the country soon after; nor to go on a second similar trip with the local Healey enthusiasts. Which, as some of you might remember was where I discovered that the heater fan didn't work and that I was unaware that there was both pre and post heater shutoffs when I ventured forth top down with my wife in -4C temps. She has more than a few issues and I hope to get to them all in time. But, yeah, except for the loose battery connections, she starts, she goes, she stops and she gets lots of attention along the way. Maybe she has plans to fix my issues?? :) > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > > Bottom line, it's not Carmen's fault. > > (Sorry, people, I know this car and it's a good trustworthy machine until > she gets screwed with) > > Rich > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 13 15:12:06 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 21:12:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> References: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: :) Well, I 'was' referring to the car ... I think I'll just leave it like that. Robert We talking about the car or your wife? "She has a few issues" Ira Erbs ----- Reply message ----- Like me, she is not without her faults. Her intro to my wife was to fail to start after I shut her off in a parking lot. :) The PO had done a marathon drive from Rich's neck of the woods to Ottawa. ( 6 hours or so? ) I guess the battery connections had worked loose somehow. I found the cause and tightened the battery connections, but the batteries were also flat ... so my wife got lunch out of it while we waited for CAA to arrive. But, I didn't hesitate to take her on a 200 km round trip in the country soon after; nor to go on a second similar trip with the local Healey enthusiasts. Which, as some of you might remember was where I discovered that the heater fan didn't work and that I was unaware that there was both pre and post heater shutoffs when I ventured forth top down with my wife in -4C temps. She has more than a few issues and I hope to get to them all in time. But, yeah, except for the loose battery connections, she starts, she goes, she stops and she gets lots of attention along the way. Maybe she has plans to fix my issues?? :) > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > > Bottom line, it's not Carmen's fault. > > (Sorry, people, I know this car and it's a good trustworthy machine until > she gets screwed with) From jpayne at ThorCon.net Fri Aug 13 15:11:58 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:11:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> References: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Yeah, she runs a little rough, coughs, stalls and spits, if you can get her started at all. I've been thinking about trading her in on a newer, late model blonde with fewer miles and more options. Jonas Payne Director of Preconstruction Thor Construction PH: (702) 269-2007 Fax: (702) 269-7095 Cell: (702) 358-5084 "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From jpayne at ThorCon.net Fri Aug 13 15:16:03 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:16:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Very Nice Triumph TR3B For Sale In-Reply-To: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> References: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-Triumph-TR3B-Fully-Restored-Last-Cut-Door -TR3s-/200507938432?pt=US_Cars_Trucks I'm moving this car on for a close friend, NFI in the actual sale. Did some sorting on the car and know it well at this point. Now, I just want it out of my garage. My wife has been patient, but needs to get her car back under cover. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 15:39:47 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 17:39:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Smart answer ;^) Bob Johnson BJ8 On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:12 PM, wrote: > :) > > > > Well, I 'was' referring to the car ... I think I'll just leave it like that. > > Robert > > > > > > > We talking about the car or your wife? "She has a few issues" > > Ira Erbs From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 13 16:27:32 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 22:27:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: <4c65adda.887b0e0a.5d5b.ffffd58c@mx.google.com>, , Message-ID: Wish I could make a habit of it!!! > > Smart answer ;^) > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > > On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:12 PM, wrote: > > :) > > > > Well, I 'was' referring to the car ... I think I'll just leave it like that. > > > > Robert > > > > > > We talking about the car or your wife? "She has a few issues" > > > > Ira Erbs From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 13 16:32:03 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:32:03 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing In-Reply-To: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> References: <19FABD5253E24B61AE4DD88BFD6AA90E@tm> Message-ID: <47A673196E1E4FB6BE61A4D4AB2ACF5A@Notebook> Hi Tadek As Alan says, Lionel Otto Instruments make new faces - I have them on both main instruments in my V6 100. Best is you don't have to send them your instruments if you're able to install the faces yourself. Mine cost about $40.00 Australian each about 18 months ago. John Robertson (Sprite owner) is the principal. There were some communication issues recently with Jose in Columbia, but I've always found them good to deal with (but they are here in Brisbane so I can go into their shop!) Cheers Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 7:31 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 gauge refacing > Hello, > > Anyone knows who does 100 gauge faces? I need to reface them - one s more > silver, the other is more gold, both are not too good looking. > (I have the instruments rebuild) > > Best, Tadek From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri Aug 13 18:04:39 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:04:39 EDT Subject: [Healeys] carb oil Message-ID: Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? (2.Viscosity of dashpot oil.) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Aug 13 18:22:13 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:22:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <001a01cb3aec$b0450fc0$10cf2f40$@rr.com> References: <383BB1EE-73F2-4D3B-8BAA-CEE63653EA81@sbcglobal.net> <251475.5132.qm@web56102.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <001a01cb3aec$b0450fc0$10cf2f40$@rr.com> Message-ID: <010f01cb3b46$bf4dd650$3de982f0$@verizon.net> The attachment that Steve send on this email was stripped because attachments are not allowed on the list. I have included the attachment on the update of my site scheduled for Saturday morning. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys [mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 9:38 AM To: 'healey list'; gmandas at yahoo.com Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments Greg, the adjusting process starts with the jets flush with the carburetor bridge, but the next step is to screw in (clockwise) the jet adjusting screws 2-1/2 turns (which lowers the jet, enrichens the mixture) as a rough point to get the engine started. The remaining carb adjusting procedures will determine the final position of the jets. See the attached file. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 18:39:13 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 17:39:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?carb_oil?= Message-ID: <4c65e59f.420fe70a.1505.6674@mx.google.com> How many babies do you need to press to get enough oil for two carbs? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: MBran89793 at aol.com Date: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 5:04 pm Subject: [Healeys] carb oil To: , , Cc: Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? (2.Viscosity of dashpot oil.) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 19:06:51 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:06:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <4c65e59f.420fe70a.1505.6674@mx.google.com> References: <4c65e59f.420fe70a.1505.6674@mx.google.com> Message-ID: One fat one or two skinny ones. On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:39 PM, eyera3 at gmail.com wrote: > How many babies do you need to press to get enough oil for two carbs? > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: MBran89793 at aol.com > Date: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 5:04 pm > Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > To: , , > Cc: > > > Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? > > > (2.Viscosity of dashpot oil.) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From ghess4 at cox.net Fri Aug 13 19:41:46 2010 From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:41:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <239506BD6DCE41DBB70C6BEB5E9BD787@GalePC> Hi Marion, I've heard that Castor Oil works great and improves your regularity......at least it did in my old airplane!! G. Hess ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Cc: Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:04 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb oil > Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? > > > (2.Viscosity of dashpot oil.) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghess4 at cox.net From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 20:58:56 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 22:58:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb oil In-Reply-To: <239506BD6DCE41DBB70C6BEB5E9BD787@GalePC> References: <239506BD6DCE41DBB70C6BEB5E9BD787@GalePC> Message-ID: And if it gets into the carbs and burns,well IMHO that would not be bad at all. Castrol being burned in the paddock at VIR when I was a teen being introduced to these car... probably has a lot to do with why I'm here with you guys (y'all, really) today Bob Johnson BJ8 On Aug 13, 2010 10:03 PM, "Ghess4" wrote: Hi Marion, I've heard that Castor Oil works great and improves your regularity......at least it did in my old airplane!! G. Hess ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Cc: Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? > > > > > > (2.Viscosity of dashpot oil.) > > _______... > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghess4 at cox.net > _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/... From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Fri Aug 13 21:18:20 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:18:20 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD Message-ID: <4f331.179b0330.399764fc@aol.com> List, Last September, I went to Bonneville with a buddy of mine and we proceeded to shoot almost eighteen hours of video chronicling the "Healeys Return to Bonneville" event. I have just now finished editing that footage into a ninety minute documentary and shortly I'm going to make it available for purchase. In addition to the documentary there is a bonus DVD covering the Wendover dinner presentation that was held in the town hall. That DVD is consists of the full presentation put on by Team Healey, complete with a question and answer section and lasts about an hour. Very interesting discussion covering the details of the team, what they had to go through to bring the cars to the salt and how they tried to stay true to the original cars. I played a rough cut of the DVD in the hotel bar at Rendezvous this year and got a very good response. That copy went into the auction and raised $80 for Healey Club of Oregon. I don't plan on selling the set for that much and in fact that's kinda why I'm writing this to the list. I'm not sure what the final price will be, but I do plan on offering a list special and so, I put this question out to the list: Is it okay for me to use this forum to help market my DVD? Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From krtaylor at exemail.com.au Fri Aug 13 21:36:21 2010 From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 13:36:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny Message-ID: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 connected battery's & carefully went through each item ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , ignition etc everything went perfectly But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2....smokeless 100M.........if I ever finish them From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 21:58:05 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:58:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: Keith, You only get smoke after you've recharged the harness. It requires one Lucas Replacement Wiring Harness Smoke kit, P/N 530433, along with the very rare Churchill Tool 18G548BS adapter tube and metering valve. You can get more information here: http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html Jody On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 8:36 PM, Keith Taylor wrote: > Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 > connected battery's & carefully went through each item > ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , > ignition etc everything went perfectly > But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2....smokeless > 100M.........if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Aug 13 22:17:59 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 21:17:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] off by 3/16" In-Reply-To: <731C9B65D73C4C88B8BB24C6C2577022@LeonardPCPC> References: <163874.35259.qm@web53801.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <731C9B65D73C4C88B8BB24C6C2577022@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <2BD7DB2925CC463C9464C33E0104C9B9@LeonardPCPC> Re: Don Day's problem with mounting his throttle linkage back in July. At the time, I asked The List if anyone else had one circlip and a spacer as opposed to two circlips on their throttle shaft. I stated that Moss shows the two circlips in their catalog - no spacer. I wondered if I have an an odd ball installation or was there a change in design during production? Were there other BJ8s out there with spacers in lieu of the second circlip? For those who, on the outside chance, may be interested in the responses, I received the following: Two circlips: '64, '66, Phase 1, #36666; One circlip plus spacer: '67 (plus my '67). Not very definitive so I will be looking under some late BJ8 hoods - oops! bonnets - at the next gathering of the clan. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 13 23:18:32 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 13:18:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: Keith - Sometimes it takes a year or two for the smoke to appear. I was lucky enough to have the smoke appear about 1 year after I put a new harness in my BJ8. I pulled over and after the prescribed several hours of cursing managed to determine that my primary ignition wire had released the smoke while securely wrapped inside the new harness. It seems smoke is released most commonly when you haven't done anything to cause it to release. Keep some additional smoke wire in your boot just in case. Cheers! Alan On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 11:36 AM, Keith Taylor wrote: > Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 > connected battery's & carefully went through each item > ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , > ignition etc everything went perfectly > But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2....smokeless > 100M.........if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 14 00:01:45 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 01:01:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: <4C663149.8070600@justbrits.com> Gents [NO lady reply, Sarah ], you have it ALMOST correct BUT you have forgotten ONE [1] VERY important with Keith's situation !!!! Keith IS in OZ so, in his case, the smoke goes IN NOT out !! After all, he IS upside-down !!!! Keith YOU have to maintain "due diligence", un like us folks UP here because WE can plainly see the 'smoke' attempting to escape !!! From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Aug 14 00:14:00 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 16:14:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: You have to drive it first, preferably after dark and out of mobile phone range! Cheers Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Taylor" Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 1:36 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny > Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 > connected battery's & carefully went through each item > ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , > ignition etc everything went perfectly > But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2....smokeless > 100M.........if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 00:27:27 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD In-Reply-To: <4f331.179b0330.399764fc@aol.com> References: <4f331.179b0330.399764fc@aol.com> Message-ID: You had better do so I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 13, 2010, at 8:18 PM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > List, > Last September, I went to Bonneville with a buddy of mine and we > proceeded to shoot almost eighteen hours of video chronicling the > "Healeys > Return to Bonneville" event. I have just now finished editing that > footage into > a ninety minute documentary and shortly I'm going to make it > available for > purchase. > In addition to the documentary there is a bonus DVD covering the > Wendover dinner presentation that was held in the town hall. That > DVD is > consists of the full presentation put on by Team Healey, complete > with a question > and answer section and lasts about an hour. Very interesting > discussion > covering the details of the team, what they had to go through to > bring the > cars to the salt and how they tried to stay true to the original > cars. > I played a rough cut of the DVD in the hotel bar at Rendezvous > this > year and got a very good response. That copy went into the auction > and raised > $80 for Healey Club of Oregon. I don't plan on selling the set for > that > much and in fact that's kinda why I'm writing this to the list. I'm > not sure > what the final price will be, but I do plan on offering a list > special and > so, I put this question out to the list: > Is it okay for me to use this forum to help market my DVD? > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 14 00:29:44 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:29:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: carb oil Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100813232400.01ff9c00@pop.att.yahoo.com> Everyone always forgets about the tri-carbs!!! Three skinny's!!! John Spaur '62 BT7 >Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:06:51 -0700 >From: Jody Kerr > >One fat one or two skinny ones. > >On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:39 PM, .... wrote: > > How many babies do you need to press to get enough oil for two carbs? > > > > From: MBran89793 at aol.com > > Date: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 5:04 pm > > Subject: [Healeys] carb oil > > > > Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried "Baby Oil"? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 14 01:15:39 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 09:15:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith> Message-ID: <4C66429B.50308@chello.nl> You did not join the Union of British Automotive Workers!! Kees Oudesluijs Keith Taylor wrote: > Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 > connected battery's & carefully went through each item > ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , > ignition etc everything went perfectly > But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2....smokeless > 100M.........if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3067 - datum van uitgifte: 08/12/10 20:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 02:20:09 2010 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Blue Healey) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 09:20:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD In-Reply-To: <4f331.179b0330.399764fc@aol.com> References: <4f331.179b0330.399764fc@aol.com> Message-ID: <2D21C821CC9B4A28BF1A620A5E584E78@homea4680ad9cc> Bring it on!! _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) http://tinyurl.com/bluehealey -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sent: 14 August 2010 04:18 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD List, Last September, I went to Bonneville with a buddy of mine and we proceeded to shoot almost eighteen hours of video chronicling the "Healeys Return to Bonneville" event. I have just now finished editing that footage into a ninety minute documentary and shortly I'm going to make it available for purchase. In addition to the documentary there is a bonus DVD covering the Wendover dinner presentation that was held in the town hall. That DVD is consists of the full presentation put on by Team Healey, complete with a question and answer section and lasts about an hour. Very interesting discussion covering the details of the team, what they had to go through to bring the cars to the salt and how they tried to stay true to the original cars. I played a rough cut of the DVD in the hotel bar at Rendezvous this year and got a very good response. That copy went into the auction and raised $80 for Healey Club of Oregon. I don't plan on selling the set for that much and in fact that's kinda why I'm writing this to the list. I'm not sure what the final price will be, but I do plan on offering a list special and so, I put this question out to the list: Is it okay for me to use this forum to help market my DVD? Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From mandmschneider at comcast.net Sat Aug 14 08:49:06 2010 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 07:49:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD Message-ID: <3D7C1EFB-6264-4383-BAC5-E31245E64A4E@comcast.net> Stephen, I have found that I am frequently surprised to learn how much actually happened at Rendezvous in Eugene, OR that I missed. I not only not only missed the presentation of the Bonneville DVD in the bar but it wasn't until now that I even found out about it. As a member of the Rendezvous Committee I take that as an indication of just how much was going on, all the time. Rendezvous was great. Second topic. I was the Oregon Club member who created the slide show shown at the Rendezvous Awards Banquet. So, I have a some idea of how much work it must be to shoot, process, edit and create a digital video program. Based on my small effort working in a much simpler medium I can only imagine the amount of work the DVD must have been. I think Stephen should be well rewarded for his effort to capture the Salt Flats event on tape and for the production of the DVD. Whatever it costs to produce the DVD in sufficient numbers to market I suggest be the starting point to figure out the sales price. Add to that a reasonable dollar figure for the personal effort and that is you sales price. Perhaps the add-on is another $10.00 each. Just my thoughts and thanks for what you have done, Stephen. I'll take one when it is available. There were about a dozen of us from the Oregon Healey Club in Wendover last year and I'll bet most of them will also be interested when the DVD is released. Marks 3 '66 BJ8 From ah3000me at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 08:54:03 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:54:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting Message-ID: A red AH Sprite in the New London, NH area. Anyone on the list? - Tom From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Aug 14 10:37:50 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 12:37:50 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville Part 2 Message-ID: <3b6b3.7686cad8.3998205e@aol.com> Every response I get tells me to go ahead, so that's exactly what I am going to do. I plan on making a NTSC version available as well as a PAL version for those in Europe and Down Under. Everything should be finalized by the end of next week and the official announcement will follow shortly after that. I am also taking the documentary to The Discovery Channel, History, Speed, etc. basically any outlet I can to see if they will air it on TV somewhere. I have spent many months on this project, lots and lots of hours and I am very happy that it is coming to a conclusion and that I will be able to share this experience with the Healey community. So stay tuned and thanks for the encouragement. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 11:39:35 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:39:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville Part 2 In-Reply-To: <3b6b3.7686cad8.3998205e@aol.com> References: <3b6b3.7686cad8.3998205e@aol.com> Message-ID: try speed channel. Its not nascar, but they might run it On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 9:37 AM, wrote: > Every response I get tells me to go ahead, so that's exactly what I am > going to do. I plan on making a NTSC version available as well as a PAL > version > for those in Europe and Down Under. Everything should be finalized by the > end of next week and the official announcement will follow shortly after > that. > I am also taking the documentary to The Discovery Channel, History, > Speed, etc. basically any outlet I can to see if they will air it on TV > somewhere. I have spent many months on this project, lots and lots of > hours and > I am very happy that it is coming to a conclusion and that I will be able > to share this experience with the Healey community. > So stay tuned and thanks for the encouragement. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 14 17:00:29 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 16:00:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments In-Reply-To: <3ACB7EA0-E4D0-447E-A0E9-D31ECC24E4EC@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <995536.47417.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Thanks everyone for your thoughts and documentation on adjusting carbs. Yea, I forgot step 2, screw them down 2.5 turns which moves them lower to start with. I think I'm running a good mixture. The plugs aren't fouled and lifting the piston with the check pins produces a slight lift and leveling out of the rpm. I did not have the butterfly bushings rebuilt which may be leaking, but at only 37K miles I didn't think it necessary. I'l have to check into them leaking. Greg --- On Fri, 8/13/10, David Nock wrote: From: David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb - Adjustments To: "Greg Mandas" Cc: "'healey list'" Date: Friday, August 13, 2010, 11:48 AM That is way to low. If everything is correct they should be approximatly 1/16 down from flush. Even with the choke pulled you will not get 3 / 8. Are you sure you are measuring it correctly. If so you must have the choke pulled out of the choke is suck on. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 13, 2010, at 5:30 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: List; After adjusting the carbs on my 65BJ8 I'm finding the jets are both, equally whats looks to be a good 3/8ths below the bushing. Since the adjusting process starts off with leveling the jets with the bushings, I'm wondering if this is an indication of; - All is well, - Wrong needles (professionally rebuilt with Moss kit last year), - The carbs are set way too rich, - low fuel pressure, or - I just like to post stuff on the Healeys forum. Greg _______________________________________________Healeys at autox.team.netDon ate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 14 17:12:46 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 16:12:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville Part 2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <663000.28161.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> HDTV, they love this stuff. --- On Sat, 8/14/10, I Erbs wrote: > From: I Erbs > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonneville Part 2 > To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Saturday, August 14, 2010, 1:39 PM > try speed channel. Its not nascar, > but they might run it > > On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 9:37 AM, > wrote: > > > Every response I get tells me to go ahead, so that's > exactly what I am > > going to do. I plan on making a NTSC version available > as well as a PAL > > version > > for those in Europe and Down Under. Everything > should be finalized by the > > end of next week and the official announcement > will follow shortly after > > that. > > I am also taking the documentary to The > Discovery Channel, History, > > Speed, etc. basically any outlet I can to see if they > will air it on TV > > somewhere. I have spent many months on this project, > lots and lots of > > hours and > > I am very happy that it is coming to a conclusion and > that I will be able > > to share this experience with the Healey community. > > So stay tuned and thanks for the > encouragement. > > Steven Kingsbury > > BN1 #598 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ > > _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ > _______) > > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 14 19:38:52 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:38:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch cam removal Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814183748.01fe3f88@pop.att.yahoo.com> How is the cam removed from the shaft. Is is a press fit? Can it be removed fairly easily; if so how? TIA John Spaur From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 14 21:04:20 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 20:04:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Coils inside relays Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814200150.01fe6e40@pop.att.yahoo.com> Could one use masking tape to wrap the coils? If not what material should be used. Would I fry the coil by using a 1.7 volt zinc plating wand to plate the screw terminals? Thank you, John Spaur From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 14 21:48:03 2010 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 20:48:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] no tac Message-ID: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I have no tac and my generator lite will not go out.What should I look for? Thanks Don,67 BJ-8 almost ready for the road From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Aug 14 23:00:18 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 13:00:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no tac In-Reply-To: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don - I assume this is for a BJ8. Make sure the loop is small around the tach pickup. All you probably need to do is reverse the white wire going in and out of the pickup loop. And it should work. If the current direction is reversed, the tach inductance pickup won't work and your tach won't read anything. For the charge light - you have to trouble shoot the whole charge system ... No easy answer here. Alan On 8/15/10, Don Day wrote: > I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I > have no tac and my generator lite will not go out.What should I look for? > Thanks Don,67 BJ-8 almost ready for the road > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 15 00:36:56 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 06:36:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Coils inside relays In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814200150.01fe6e40@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2044467990.1491284.1281854216568.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " Could one use masking tape to wrap the coils? If not what material should be used." I just used some silicone tape called 'Xtreme Tape' or something like that (Moss sells it). It stretches and bonds to itself. Think it would work well in this application. re: "Would I fry the coil by using a 1.7 volt zinc plating wand to plate the screw terminals?" PROBABLY not; the relays on Healeys are meant for 12V. Note emphasis on PROBABLY. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 8:04:20 PM Subject: [Healeys] Coils inside relays Could one use masking tape to wrap the coils? If not what material should be used. Would I fry the coil by using a 1.7 volt zinc plating wand to plate the screw terminals? Thank you, John Spaur _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From krtaylor at exemail.com.au Sun Aug 15 01:15:50 2010 From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:15:50 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Acknoledgments Re.NOT Friday Funny Message-ID: <002601cb3c49$b0c87f00$0202a8c0@keith> The List comes through again , Thanks to the following for their collective wisdom. Roland Failure to install smoke during manufacture Jody To rectify above http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html Bob Time delayed harness Erbs Congrats Alan Patience It WILL happen Peter On a dark night in a lonely place Charley Error correctly grounded Just Brits OZ is upside down look under the car I truly thank everyone who did not treat this as a joke Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BAN BAN.......still smokeless 100M.........if I ever finish them From krtaylor at exemail.com.au Sun Aug 15 01:26:55 2010 From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:26:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Acknowledgements RE. NOT a Friday funny Message-ID: <001201cb3c4b$3d4d9720$0202a8c0@keith> Continued Odesluits Obviously Non Union labour Robert Confused smoke Keith Taylor From grantlyon at myway.com Sun Aug 15 01:32:15 2010 From: grantlyon at myway.com (grantlyon at myway.com) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 03:32:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] How to remove Master Cylinder Plunger? '60 BT7 Message-ID: <20100815033215.15279@web006.roc2.bluetie.com> Rebuilding my clutch master cylinder. Removed MC. Have disassembled push rod with dished washer after circlip removal. It is not obvious to me what is holding the plunger assy in the cylinder. The plunger is free to move down into the cylinder bore, but stops at the top/end of bore well before the circlip slot. How to "remove plunger assembly complete" per workshop page E.6 ? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 15 03:07:43 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 11:07:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] How to remove Master Cylinder Plunger? '60 BT7 In-Reply-To: <20100815033215.15279@web006.roc2.bluetie.com> References: <20100815033215.15279@web006.roc2.bluetie.com> Message-ID: <4C67AE5F.4050408@chello.nl> Probably a rim of crud formed during the years. Try a plastic or wooden scraper to get rid of most dirt and put an airline on the cylinder to eject the plunger. Be careful though, it may shoot out like a bullet. Do not worry about the seal, you have to renew that anyway. Kees Oudesluijs NL grantlyon at myway.com wrote: > Rebuilding my clutch master cylinder. > Removed MC. > Have disassembled push rod with dished washer after circlip removal. > It is not obvious to me what is holding the plunger assy in the cylinder. > The plunger is free to move down into the cylinder bore, but stops at the > top/end of bore well before the circlip slot. > How to "remove plunger assembly complete" per workshop page E.6 ? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3069 - datum van uitgifte: 08/13/10 20:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Aug 15 06:55:48 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 8:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no tac In-Reply-To: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100815085548.HORX2.30411.root@pamxwww02-z01> On the tach, did you make the correct loop of the white wire? Even with a loop, as I recall, the size of the loop is critical. ---- Don Day wrote: ============= I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I have no tac and my generator lite will not go out.What should I look for? Thanks Don,67 BJ-8 almost ready for the road _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 15 08:16:30 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 14:16:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny In-Reply-To: References: <000801cb3b61$dd4934e0$0202a8c0@keith>, Message-ID: Keith! Yes, confused, seems to be my normal state of being. Did things go perfectly? Is the smoke where it should be and all is well in the world for you? Robert From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca To: krtaylor at exemail.com.au Subject: RE: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 12:14:34 +0000 Well, you're getting lots of humourous reponses ... I can't say that I understood if what you're saying is that there's no smoke "in" the wires. ( which would be bad ) or if you're saying that no smoke came "out" ( which would be 'good'. :) Hopefully, as you say everything went perfectly, it is that the smoke didn't come out. > From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2010 13:36:21 +1000 > Subject: [Healeys] This is NOT a Friday Funny > > Just completed fitting a new wiring loom to my BN2 > connected battery's & carefully went through each item > ie. lights , blinkers , instruments , overdrive , alternator conversion , > ignition etc everything went perfectly > But NO SMOKE what have I done wrong. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > > BN1 > BN2....smokeless > 100M.........if I ever finish them > _______________________________________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 15 08:21:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 14:21:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] no tac In-Reply-To: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <570872102.1494556.1281882065471.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: generator light won't go out Obvious: connection to voltage regulator (wrong terminal/wire?), connection to field coils, connection to brush/commutator pickup Not-so-obvious: something wrong inside generator, something wrong inside voltage regulator, something wrong in harness (not likely) bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I have no tac and my generator lite will not go out.What should I look for? Thanks Don,67 BJ-8 almost ready for the road _______________________________________________ From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 15 08:33:42 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 14:33:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Deer me! Message-ID: Well, ... without the 'ru ( which requires a $700 fuel pump which won't be available until Tues.), I took the Healey for a required 200km round trip to the country. A nice daytime drive as Lord Lucas intended. An unusual LBC sighting in that neck of the woods ( with waves exchanged ) and I eve nran into a fellow ( local ) Healey Club memebr as I got back to the city. Nice drive. I got to check out the brakes and the horn also, as a young fawn decided to see if I was paying attention. The horn works fine and the car travels in a straight line under lock up. Other than rubber and hooves experiencing a bit more wear than they would have under normal conditions, no damage was done. I scanned and printed out the schematic from the service manual and have come to the conclusion that most things on that diagram are electrical in nature. :) I have marked it up a bit and figure I have a good idea what I should be doing. ( fingers crossed. ) And, if I can do so without drowning, I'm going to head out to the garage and see if I can adjust that smoke so that it flows through the headlights .. or at least get 'closer' to a solution. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 15 09:54:33 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:54:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Deer me! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: headlamp switch. Robert > From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca > > see if I can adjust that smoke so that it flows through the headlights .. or > at least get 'closer' to a solution. > > > Robert From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 15 11:05:12 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 10:05:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no tac In-Reply-To: <570872102.1494556.1281882065471.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <570872102.1494556.1281882065471.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Polarity issues? On Aug 15, 2010 7:39 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: re: generator light won't go out Obvious: connection to voltage regulator (wrong terminal/wire?), connection to field coils, connection to brush/commutator pickup Not-so-obvious: something wrong inside generator, something wrong inside voltage regulator, something wrong in harness (not likely) bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I have no tac and my gen... From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 15 11:38:18 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 10:38:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] NOS Parts Message-ID: <470642.31568.qm@web34504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I am trying to whittle down my left over parts, you name it and I just might have it, no engines or trannies, they have already been sold. I have set of NOS front disc pads for a BJ8, new still in the box. Also NOS, new still in the box a pair of Lucas Square 8 Plus driving lamps. Per Healey shop manuals and other literature these were also offered as an accessory. Right now I am attempting to put together a complete list of parts[, when I have one I will post it. Thanks for all of the fun I have had these 30+ years in the Healey club, it has been a great ride. TIA, John From jtrifari at comcast.net Sun Aug 15 11:50:23 2010 From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 10:50:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no tac In-Reply-To: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <256161.97856.qm@web53807.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cb3ca2$566e0350$034a09f0$@net> Don--check the fuse box. If you put a fuse in the ignition circuit and it's not between the clips properly you will draw power into the ignition circuit from the horn circuit. The car will run (good to remember of you lose your keys) but the generator light will stay on. John Trifari Golden Gate AHC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Day Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 8:48 Don--check the position of the PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] no tac I have a new wiring harness,hooked up just like the old one,my problem is I have no tac and my generator lite will not go out.What should I look for? Thanks Don,67 BJ-8 almost ready for the road _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 15 13:37:44 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:37:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Nearly Smokeless In-Reply-To: References: , , , <6DE6EAFC6E9B433E9AA6183D34E24E6D@GregPC>, Message-ID: So that contraption ( aka 'funky control box' ) is the flasher relay ... Gotta wonder what's inside that thing ... > From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca > > :) I saw that contraption and wondered what the heck it was! I saw lots of > goesintas and goesouttas, but what is in it? > > > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > > > > don't forget the funky control > > box towards the front left part of the engine compartment, > > > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun Aug 15 17:59:53 2010 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 16:59:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 66 BJ8 engine In-Reply-To: <20100804010025.E3FNB.60594.root@hrndva-web11-z02> Message-ID: <529982.89306.qm@web52405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Aldo Machine Shop Rt 9W Highland NY JK --- On Tue, 8/3/10, tstreeter at twcny.rr.com wrote: > From: tstreeter at twcny.rr.com > Subject: [Healeys] 66 BJ8 engine > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 9:00 PM > In the process of restoration - was > wondering if there were any recommendations on > a reputable british machine rebuild shop. I live in > upstate NY area but would not > mind traveling. > > Any information would be appreciated > Thanks > Todd > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall at yahoo.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 15 19:27:15 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 18:27:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling Message-ID: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Listers, I know this topic has gotten flogged many times before, but we're having a severe dieseling (runon) problem with our BN2/100M. Carbs rebuilt, otherwise running good, but she refuses to shut down. Have cut the idle way down and retarded the timing a bit, mixture is spot on according to Colortunes and 'lift test,' coolant temp OK. One data point: if we pull out the choke when turning the ignition off she shuts down immediately. All suggestions, SWAGs, etc. welcome. TIA, bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Aug 15 19:39:07 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 21:39:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> References: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD0AFAF362BAA5-10B0-26399@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com> Bob, Set the parking brake and with clutch depressed, put the trans. in 1st. gear, right foot on brake, at idle, slowly let the clutch out and when the engine starts to slow down, turn the ignition off and the engine should stop with out dieseling on. Works for me. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeylist Sent: Sun, Aug 15, 2010 9:27 pm Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling Listers, I know this topic has gotten flogged many times before, but we're having a severe dieseling (runon) problem with our BN2/100M. Carbs rebuilt, otherwise running good, but she refuses to shut down. Have cut the idle way down and retarded the timing a bit, mixture is spot on according to Colortunes and 'lift test,' coolant temp OK. One data point: if we pull out the choke when turning the ignition off she shuts down immediately. All suggestions, SWAGs, etc. welcome. TIA, bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From scbronson5 at msn.com Sun Aug 15 22:17:50 2010 From: scbronson5 at msn.com (Sid & Maria Bronson) Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 22:17:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] valve adjustment Message-ID: Doing a valve lash/ adjustment on my BJ8. Using the 13 minus 1 rule. Question, when no. 1 in open what other valves are also open. Also no. 2 etcet. Thanks. Sid From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Aug 16 00:15:38 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:15:38 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows Message-ID: G'day list I'm trying to construct a set of hood bows from the rusty remains that came with the V6 car. I think I have enough to repair if I can find details of the folding mechanism ( what I have is mostly disassembled) Does anyone have a drawing or close-up photos of the folding mechanism? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 00:27:01 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:27:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> References: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - A BN2, even with M pistons, should not be running-on at all, especially if using premium fuel. My stock BN1 doesn't run-on even with regular unleaded, so something is wrong. Given that you've gone through the timing & mixture, I'd say the last thing to check is carbon deposits. Pull the plugs and make sure they are clean. If they are clean then you need to proceed to undertake an Italian tune up. Apparently adding a can of Marvel Mystery Oil to your tank can help here (but I've never done that). Ok, the Italian tune up: Take the BN2 and run it on a highway or country road at 4,000 + revs for a good 5 minutes. Probably best done in either second or third with no OD. As you get to your five minutes, all of a sudden let off the gas and just let the motor do the braking while you coast to a stop, best if done going down hill. Do this two or three times and that should help dislodge carbon on your pistons and valves. Alan On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I know this topic has gotten flogged many times before, but we're having a > severe dieseling (runon) problem with our BN2/100M. Carbs rebuilt, > otherwise running good, but she refuses to shut down. Have cut the idle way > down and retarded the timing a bit, mixture is spot on according to > Colortunes and 'lift test,' coolant temp OK. One data point: if we pull out > the choke when turning the ignition off she shuts down immediately. > All suggestions, SWAGs, etc. welcome. > > TIA, > bs > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 16 05:58:35 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 05:58:35 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] valve adjustment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FO: 153624 Start with #1 at TDC. # 6 push rods will be rocking simultaneously. Thus #1 is on compression stroke and both valves can be adjusted on #1. Rotate engine till #5 is at TDC, #2 push rods are now rocking, adj. both on #5, rotate engine till #3 is at TDC, #4 rocking and so on through the firing order... actually you can start anywhere once one sees how the cam opens the valves in relation to the position of the pistons.. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sid & Maria Bronson Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 10:18 PM To: 'Healey list' Subject: [Healeys] valve adjustment Doing a valve lash/ adjustment on my BJ8. Using the 13 minus 1 rule. Question, when no. 1 in open what other valves are also open. Also no. 2 etcet. Thanks. Sid _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 16 07:29:17 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:29:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> References: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD0B5E29700DD1-14E4-167D5@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> To eliminate two possibilities, do you know what your engine compression is? & are you using the highest octane pump fuel you can get? Gary From pennell at cox.net Mon Aug 16 09:46:40 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:46:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes Message-ID: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Listers, Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? Keith From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 16 09:54:21 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:54:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <4C695F2D.7080403@chello.nl> Were the brakes overhauled very recently? Kees Oudesluijs NL pennell at cox.net wrote: > Listers, > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3075 - datum van uitgifte: 08/16/10 08:35:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 16 10:01:24 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:01:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <178584074.1535722.1281974484195.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Could also be a problem with that wheel cylinder--the hydraulics have enough force to push the piston out, but the return springs don't have enough to pull it back in. Come to think of it, have you pulled the hub to have a look? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Listers, Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? Keith From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 16 10:25:17 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 12:25:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 tonneau bar Message-ID: >From what I understand and I could be wrong: The Longbridge tonneau bar is 2" shorter then the later BN4 bar, and both are solid (not two pieces). The BJ7/8 bars are two pieces. My questions: Are all the BN4 bars solid (not two pieces)? How should the solid BN4 bar be stored in the car? Mine doesn't seem to fit in the boot. I store it behind the rear seat where the top goes. Thanks all, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From pennell at cox.net Mon Aug 16 10:44:52 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 12:44:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <20100816124452.BWTWP.1458216.imail@eastrmwml35> Forgot to mentiion. I did pull the brake drum and it was dry as a bone inside. No dampness around the wheel cylinder or on back of backplate. Brakes have not been touched in several years. Could there be a binding issue somewhere and so there is need of lubricating some points? Keith ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > Listers, > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Mon Aug 16 11:01:30 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:01:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816124452.BWTWP.1458216.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> <20100816124452.BWTWP.1458216.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: Replace your flexible brake line. As they age, they will collapse and hold the pressure after application. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 9:44 AM, wrote: > Forgot to mentiion. I did pull the brake drum and it was dry as a bone > inside. No dampness around the wheel cylinder or on back of backplate. > Brakes have not been touched in several years. Could there be a binding > issue somewhere and so there is need of lubricating some points? > > Keith > > ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > > Listers, > > > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes > were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I > cut my drive short and went home. > > > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would > stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The > only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the > adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times > I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. > Still stuck. > > > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but > wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? > > > > Keith > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer at dslextreme.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 16 12:27:21 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 20:27:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816124452.BWTWP.1458216.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20100816124452.BWTWP.1458216.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <4C698309.9060000@chello.nl> As you have to check the lot you may as well dismantle both sides completely, clean, inspect the brake cylinders and replace the seals if the bores are without any scoring or renew the cylinders all together if at all scored and renew the brake hose(s), sparingly lubricate the sliding surfaces, adjusters and pivot points with some aluminium or copper grease but be careful not to contaminate the linings or the drums. Fit the brake shoes the proper way (leading / trailing edge etc.). Kees Oudesluijs NL pennell at cox.net wrote: > Forgot to mentiion. I did pull the brake drum and it was dry as a bone inside. No dampness around the wheel cylinder or on back of backplate. Brakes have not been touched in several years. Could there be a binding issue somewhere and so there is need of lubricating some points? > > Keith > > ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. >> >> Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. >> >> I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? >> >> Keith >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pennell at cox.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3075 - datum van uitgifte: 08/16/10 08:35:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 16 14:32:20 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 06:32:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <0DF08360-CCA7-44E2-B3B3-E273CD652F1A@gmail.com> Keith, Just drive it more. Just use it. Dont just be a karate kid. Wax on, wax off...... Drive it! If you haven't recently, then rebuild your entire brake system. ;-) At least twice. Or drive it more often. ;-) That will teach you... ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 17/08/2010, at 1:46 AM, wrote: > Listers, > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the > brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just > before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear > would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear > remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel > to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released > it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, > waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling > but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any > thoughts please? > > Keith > _________________m From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Aug 16 14:43:45 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 06:43:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43AB0C750B7043B781236CAA1105F42E@Notebook> The list comes up trumps as usual! Many, many thanks to Sarah, Rich and Charley, all of whom went to the trouble of taking photos, and to Roland who offered to do the same. These are just what I need! Thanks again Peter From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 16 15:05:27 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:05:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows In-Reply-To: <43AB0C750B7043B781236CAA1105F42E@Notebook> Message-ID: <20100816170527.K55R6.154028.root@pamxwww04-z01> So VERY true! Matter of fact, I can't bring myself to toss the exhaust manifolds I just took off my 66. They have fine line cracks in them but I keep thinking I'll fix the cracks or someone else might want them to fix them-----------so---what do I do---I add them to my collection of Brit car "have to keep" items. tom ---- Peter & Veronica wrote: ============= The list comes up trumps as usual! Many, many thanks to Sarah, Rich and Charley, all of whom went to the trouble of taking photos, and to Roland who offered to do the same. These are just what I need! Thanks again Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 16 15:06:47 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:06:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows In-Reply-To: <20100816170527.K55R6.154028.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <20100816170647.GNFR0.154062.root@pamxwww04-z01> Sorry!! Attached to the wrong e-mail to the wrong list! tom ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= So VERY true! Matter of fact, I can't bring myself to toss the exhaust manifolds I just took off my 66. They have fine line cracks in them but I keep thinking I'll fix the cracks or someone else might want them to fix them-----------so---what do I do---I add them to my collection of Brit car "have to keep" items. tom ---- Peter & Veronica wrote: ============= The list comes up trumps as usual! Many, many thanks to Sarah, Rich and Charley, all of whom went to the trouble of taking photos, and to Roland who offered to do the same. These are just what I need! Thanks again Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Mon Aug 16 15:28:59 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:28:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <115400.69081.qm@web53003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have fixed this problem on 2 Healeys. Both had sticky hydraulics. One had very dirty disc brake calipers. We dismantled, cleaned and problem was gone. On the BN-1 and BN-2 master cylinders, they are famous for dirt causing the long piston to stick. In all cases I no longer rebuild cylinders. I send them to a rebuilder for the perfect job. In the case of the BN-1 and BN-2 using silicone brake fluid requires modifications to the master cylinder. To me it is unlikely a problem with hoses. With three wheels sticking, it is likely the master cylinder. Usually easy to diagnose and fix. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Mon, 8/16/10, pennell at cox.net wrote: From: pennell at cox.net Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, August 16, 2010, 8:46 AM Listers, Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? Keith _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Aug 16 16:34:05 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:34:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] British but non-Healey Message-ID: Listers, We've been rummaging in the corners of the shop, and have uncovered a fuel pump setup given to us some years ago. It's side-by-side triple SUs, with a one-into-three inlet "manifold" and a three-into-one outlet. The cut-off, curved stubs of copper tubing attached to the (chromed!) "manifolds" [can't think of anything else to call them] show that the fuel came up from below and went out upwards. The man who gave this to us ran a restoration shop, but didn't remember what this unit came from. We guess that it must have been something large and expensive----Rolls? Bentley? Lagonda?.... Has anyone out there ever seen anything like this? Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 16 17:01:14 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:01:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] British but non-Healey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100816190115.K6722.156162.root@pamxwww04-z01> Sarah---are they HD 8's , 6's or ?? I was first thinking a Jag, but your gas line hookup and manifold doesn't match. Do you have a photo you can send? tom ---- Carr&Edwards wrote: ============= Listers, We've been rummaging in the corners of the shop, and have uncovered a fuel pump setup given to us some years ago. It's side-by-side triple SUs, with a one-into-three inlet "manifold" and a three-into-one outlet. The cut-off, curved stubs of copper tubing attached to the (chromed!) "manifolds" [can't think of anything else to call them] show that the fuel came up from below and went out upwards. The man who gave this to us ran a restoration shop, but didn't remember what this unit came from. We guess that it must have been something large and expensive----Rolls? Bentley? Lagonda?.... Has anyone out there ever seen anything like this? Sarah Carr BN1 in PA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Aug 16 17:03:02 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] British but non-Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1694C56B-976C-44EB-BF80-08AF98B836D4@cox.net> Jaguar? On Aug 16, 2010, at 3:34 PM, Carr&Edwards wrote: > Listers, > > We've been rummaging in the corners of the shop, and have uncovered > a fuel > pump setup given to us some years ago. > > It's side-by-side triple SUs, with a one-into-three inlet "manifold" > and a > three-into-one outlet. The cut-off, curved stubs of copper tubing > attached to > the (chromed!) "manifolds" [can't think of anything else to call > them] show > that the fuel came up from below and went out upwards. > > The man who gave this to us ran a restoration shop, but didn't > remember what > this unit came from. We guess that it must have been something > large and > expensive----Rolls? Bentley? Lagonda?.... Has anyone out there > ever seen > anything like this? > > > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Mon Aug 16 17:07:59 2010 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:07:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front coil spring question Message-ID: <583396.53864.qm@web36701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Finishing up front-suspension rebuild on a BN2. (frame-up resto). Compressing the coil springs using the 2 threaded rods I used when dismantling 4 years ago! Passenger side coil went on fine. I took out the 2" piece belwo the shock A-arm I to line up parts before tightening. The rear of the spring pan just cleared the frame rail and this worked fine. The small rubber buffer is heavily compressed. On the driver side the rear of the spring pan hits the frame rail (about 1/8"). Trying to work it forward I started to bend one of the threaded rods, so I backed off. If I would use a 1.5" to 2" distance piece here under the shock A-arm, the lower a-arms angle would allow the spring pan to clear the frame rail but I am sure I will only get the piece back out when the car will be on it's wheels with some load. This will be in about a month. Compressing the springs roughly the extra 1.5" will not be easy also. I also will definitely switch to hardened steel rods. Did anyone else have the rear of the spring plate hit the frame? Should I just wait till the car is on it's wheels and at normal ride height or put a wood block between the shock plate and A-arm now and finish this job? I realize using spring compressors this would not be an issue. All advice on which model of spring compressors that can be used on a Healey is welcome too. cheers, Bert From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 16 17:52:53 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:52:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front coil spring question In-Reply-To: <583396.53864.qm@web36701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <583396.53864.qm@web36701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <358AD737CE4140179756908A6F2CF4B4@LIFEBOOK> Bert, Simply use the two threaded rods and bring the spring up and without the temporary spacer. Bring the inner most threaded rod up most of the way first. This will help to clear the pan from the frame. Continue and install all the bolts. Then put a jack under the outer portion of the spring pan and lift the suspension until you can install your temporary spacer. Then tighten the trunnion bolts, jack things a little further to release the spacer and you're done. I would never use a spring compressor. The longer threaded studs and bringing the inboard one most of the way first has always worked well for me. Rich ------------------------------------------------- From: "Bert Van Brande" Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 7:07 PM To: "List Healey" Subject: [Healeys] Front coil spring question > Finishing up front-suspension rebuild on a BN2. (frame-up resto). > Compressing the coil springs using the 2 threaded rods I used when > dismantling 4 years ago! Passenger side coil went on fine. I took out > the 2" piece belwo the shock A-arm I to line up parts before tightening. > The rear of the spring pan just cleared the frame rail and this worked > fine. The small rubber buffer is heavily compressed. > > On the driver side the rear of the spring pan hits the frame rail (about > 1/8"). Trying to work it forward I started to bend one of the threaded > rods, so I backed off. If I would use a 1.5" to 2" distance piece here > under the shock A-arm, the lower a-arms angle would allow the spring pan > to clear the frame rail but I am sure I will only get the piece back out > when the car will be on it's wheels with some load. This will be in about > a month. Compressing the springs roughly the extra 1.5" will not be easy > also. I also will definitely switch to hardened steel rods. > > Did anyone else have the rear of the spring plate hit the frame? Should I > just wait till the car is on it's wheels and at normal ride height or put > a wood block between the shock plate and A-arm now and finish this job? > > I realize using spring compressors this would not be an issue. All advice > on which model of spring compressors that can be used on a Healey is > welcome too. > > cheers, > > Bert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 16 18:01:37 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 20:01:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: Keith, If the only corner sticking is the left rear, then that's where the problem is. Has a left rear line been crimped or struck with something to cause a restriction in the line? Pull the wheel, hub and drum and check for a part out of place, broken return spring, piston so far out it's jamming, anything abnormal like that. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 11:46 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes > Listers, > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes > were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I > cut my drive short and went home. > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would > stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The > only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on > the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several > times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked > again. Still stuck. > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but > wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Aug 16 18:06:44 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:06:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Message-ID: <122812.49959.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Carbon Deposits in cylinder other than on the Plugs? My mechanic gave me a $25 can of "Clean the crap out of the cylinder" stuff. I didn't have the dieseling problem, but might not carbon build up glow and act to ignite the fuel. Greg --- On Sun, 8/15/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > From: Bob Spidell > Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling > To: "healeylist" > Date: Sunday, August 15, 2010, 9:27 PM > Listers, > > I know this topic has gotten flogged many times before, but > we're having a severe dieseling (runon) problem with our > BN2/100M. Carbs rebuilt, otherwise running good, but > she refuses to shut down. Have cut the idle way down > and retarded the timing a bit, mixture is spot on according > to Colortunes and 'lift test,' coolant temp OK. One > data point: if we pull out the choke when turning the > ignition off she shuts down immediately. > All suggestions, SWAGs, etc. welcome. > > TIA, > bs > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell > San Jose, CA > bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Mon Aug 16 18:15:00 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:15:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows In-Reply-To: <20100816170647.GNFR0.154062.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <512170.51246.qm@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> No Problem. I added my old exhaust manifolds to my Have To Keep pile. --- On Mon, 8/16/10, Tom Felts wrote: > From: Tom Felts > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 hood (soft top) bows > To: "Rich C" , "Peter & Veronica" , "Tom Felts" , healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, August 16, 2010, 5:06 PM > Sorry!! Attached to the wrong > e-mail to the wrong list! > > tom > > > ---- Tom Felts > wrote: > > ============= > So VERY true! Matter of fact, I can't bring myself to > toss the exhaust manifolds I just took off my 66. They > have fine line cracks in them but I keep thinking I'll fix > the cracks or someone else might want them to fix > them-----------so---what do I do---I add them to my > collection of Brit car "have to keep" items. > > tom > ---- Peter & Veronica > wrote: > > ============= > The list comes up trumps as usual! Many, many thanks to > Sarah, Rich and > Charley, all of whom went to the trouble of taking photos, > and to Roland who > offered to do the same. These are just what I need! Thanks > again > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 16 18:40:53 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 20:40:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6947D8.4000203@comcast.net> References: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> <8CD0B5E29700DD1-14E4-167D5@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> <4C6947D8.4000203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD0BBBFB73D795-C30-4A67@webmail-d098.sysops.aol.com> I don't recall how high the 100 high-compression pistons are, but if they are in the vicinity of 9.5 to 1, I think your dieseling is caused by the low octane regular gas. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: warthodson at aol.com Sent: Mon, Aug 16, 2010 9:14 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling It's newly rebuilt, and has the high-compression pistons. So far, we've run it on regular (87 octane), but we'll be trying premium. Thanks for the help. Bob warthodson at aol.com wrote: > To eliminate two possibilities, do you know what your engine > compression is? & are you using the highest octane pump fuel you can get? > Gary > > > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey at hunterbane.com Mon Aug 16 20:49:39 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 22:49:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap References: Message-ID: Bob, Received the washers last week and all is installed as of this weekend. Thanks again Bob for your help. Please note that I have never had such detail paid to shipping two washers as Bob gave. You would have thought it was as valuable as a NOS trafficator. Olin Begin forwarded message: > From: Olin Brimberry > Date: August 8, 2010 10:39:19 AM EDT > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap > > Got lots of great responses and I had an offer from Bob to send me a > pair, which I thought was kind of him since he has never met me. To > summarize the responses, just get some fender washers and cut them > either with metal shears or h. Some suggested success with a bench > grinder also. > > Thank you list members! > > Olin > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: Olin Brimberry >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap >> Sent: Aug 07 '10 22:01 >> >> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank >> out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. >> These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the >> flange to the rear shoud. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Olin Brimberry >> Raleigh, NC From healey at hunterbane.com Mon Aug 16 20:50:07 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 22:50:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap References: Message-ID: <6DCAE836-490B-4795-8EA9-6A9D73815A2C@hunterbane.com> Bob, Received the washers last week and all is installed as of this weekend. Thanks again Bob for your help. Please note that I have never had such detail paid to shipping two washers as Bob gave. You would have thought it was as valuable as a NOS trafficator. Olin Begin forwarded message: > From: Olin Brimberry > Date: August 8, 2010 10:39:19 AM EDT > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap > > Got lots of great responses and I had an offer from Bob to send me a > pair, which I thought was kind of him since he has never met me. To > summarize the responses, just get some fender washers and cut them > either with metal shears or h. Some suggested success with a bench > grinder also. > > Thank you list members! > > Olin > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: Olin Brimberry >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap >> Sent: Aug 07 '10 22:01 >> >> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank >> out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. >> These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the >> flange to the rear shoud. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Olin Brimberry >> Raleigh, NC From healey at hunterbane.com Mon Aug 16 20:50:37 2010 From: healey at hunterbane.com (Olin Brimberry) Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 22:50:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap References: Message-ID: Bob, Received the washers last week and all is installed as of this weekend. Thanks again Bob for your help. Please note that I have never had such detail paid to shipping two washers as Bob gave. You would have thought it was as valuable as a NOS trafficator. Olin Begin forwarded message: > From: Olin Brimberry > Date: August 8, 2010 10:39:19 AM EDT > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap > > Got lots of great responses and I had an offer from Bob to send me a > pair, which I thought was kind of him since he has never met me. To > summarize the responses, just get some fender washers and cut them > either with metal shears or h. Some suggested success with a bench > grinder also. > > Thank you list members! > > Olin > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: Olin Brimberry >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] "D" shaped washers for the fuel tank strap >> Sent: Aug 07 '10 22:01 >> >> Does anyone have an extra set of 2 of these washers. I took my tank >> out and when putting the straps back on, I misplaced the washers. >> These are the 2 that are D shaped so that it will fit against the >> flange to the rear shoud. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Olin Brimberry >> Raleigh, NC From mbuggy at gmail.com Tue Aug 17 09:07:08 2010 From: mbuggy at gmail.com (mark buggy) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:07:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' Message-ID: Hello, I recall seeing frame 'add ons' which you could weld to the frame to strengthen an area of the frame. Specifically I recall triangle pieces that are welded in the cross area. My BJ8 has the common sag in the middle, which makes operating the doors less than perfect. This car is definitely a candidate for a new frame, but there's no way i'm going that direction. My thought was to jack up the car to the point where the doors operate correctly and then weld in these frame strengthening 'add ons'. Hopefully this should change the memory of the frame. Anyone know of companies that sell these? Thanks, Mark '67 BJ8 From javrugtman at htcnet.org Tue Aug 17 10:39:51 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:39:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss Message-ID: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> Just got my latest Moss catalogue and have to mention that after not being impressed with Moss stuff in the past, I see that they have been listening to us well. Just check out their listing and instructions for their new AH fuel tank, a quantum leap over just a short time ago. John 64/66 BJ8s 74 Commando From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue Aug 17 11:23:48 2010 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:23:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <609129.69022.qm@web111408.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Mark You may find that the uni-body sub frame and the sills under and around the doors have rusted away to the point that they are no longer doing their supporting part in the structure. This allows the car to sag. You may not need a new frame but only to repair the sub frame and sills and out riggers. Look for signs of rust damage behind the dog leg areas front and rear as an indicator. I think a weld on piece will not do the trick. Lets see what wisdom the rest of the list comes up with. Regards Ray Juncal --- On Tue, 8/17/10, mark buggy wrote: From: mark buggy Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 8:07 AM Hello, I recall seeing frame 'add ons' which you could weld to the frame to strengthen an area of the frame. Specifically I recall triangle pieces that are welded in the cross area. My BJ8 has the common sag in the middle, which makes operating the doors less than perfect. This car is definitely a candidate for a new frame, but there's no way i'm going that direction. My thought was to jack up the car to the point where the doors operate correctly and then weld in these frame strengthening 'add ons'. Hopefully this should change the memory of the frame. Anyone know of companies that sell these? Thanks, Mark '67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 17 11:39:02 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 13:39:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, The most common misconception is that the main frame itself has sagged. This comes about by folks peering under the car from front to back and seeing what they think is a sag along the bottom edge. Please be aware that for something like the front 51" there is a taper of 1 1/4" from about the front outriggers forward. What you almost certainly have there are ends of outriggers and the inner sills that have deteriorated, allowing the body structure to sag, causing your problem. The frame members will flex by themselves, because the frame components are only a portion of the strength of the car. The Austin Healey is an early semi-unibody design, with a partial frame, but with the rest of the inner structure including firewall and bulkheads, inner angular bracing members, the aforementioned inner sills and outriggers, the door pillars, A post supports and even the floors making up the actual final structure. On your car, some of these have deteriorated, usually the first culprits being the ends of the outriggers, the inner sills, the bottoms of the A posts and the bottoms of the shut pillars. In other words, all the bridging points between chassis frame and semi-monocoque structure. A suspension bridge would have no strength if most of the support cables were removed even if the towers were fine. It's a similar idea. The car will need to be supported squarely and accurately and these components will need to be thoroughly examined and replaced as needed. I'm not saying that your 45 year old chassis frame is necessarily healthy, but it may be fine, with these other components needing replacement. Don't go sticking add-ons onto your chassis frame. If those portions are really that bad, they need to be replaced. If you do the things I've mentioned above, you shouldn't need to be sticking add-ons to your chassis. You'll only ruin what you have there, as these add-ons are almost impossible to take off without ruining what's beneath. Rich > Hello, > I recall seeing frame 'add ons' which you could weld to the frame to > strengthen an area of the frame. Specifically I recall triangle pieces > that > are welded in the cross area. My BJ8 has the common sag in the middle, > which makes operating the doors less than perfect. This car is definitely > a > candidate for a new frame, but there's no way i'm going that direction. > My > thought was to jack up the car to the point where the doors operate > correctly and then weld in these frame strengthening 'add ons'. Hopefully > this should change the memory of the frame. > Anyone know of companies that sell these? > > Thanks, Mark > '67 BJ8 From racarbon at verizon.net Tue Aug 17 15:44:29 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 17:44:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV Negatives Message-ID: <983391BA78EF44B98DC6C5601FC97B89@rac> Hi all, I hate to bring up this subject again but, during a conversation with another Healey owner, a couple of points came up that have not been mentioned during our extensive discussions. Since the choice of PCV seems to have been made on little available information (As I understand, selection was made on a rough displacement match for a carbureted 6-cylinder), it is with luck that the unit picked has a specification profile close to the one required to satisfy the unique characteristics of the Healey engine. If the selected valve evacuates a less-than-required blow-by volume, a crankcase pressure buildup will occur greater than the original system. If the PCV is too large, it will suck an excessive volume of oil and oil-vapor into the intake manifold and diminished combustion efficiency. Additionally, on a BJ8 with a vacuum assist brake servo, it was brought up that, since the PCV vacuum tap would be close or share the same manifold port, when the engine is turned off, oil-vapor under pressure in the crankcase, would penetrate the intake manifold and eventually find its way to destroy the rubber parts of the servo. I had been seriously considering the installation of a PCV in my 64BJ8P1 and was considering the installation of an oil catch can between the crankcase and the PCV valve to trap oil and oil vapor from heavily contaminating the valve or entering the intake manifold. During a simple vacuum test (without the oil catch can) of 1968 Mustang 200CI PCV, I found that vapor continues to be expelled from the valve when the engine is off. I am not sure that an oil catch can will stop brake servo contamination but I decided that I would rather clean my garage floor than risk that condition. Thoughts? All the best, Ray 64BJ8P1 From gmandas at yahoo.com Tue Aug 17 19:00:14 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:00:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> Message-ID: <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Aug 17 19:54:35 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:54:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cb3e78$4f95b500$eec11f00$@ca> I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From gmandas at yahoo.com Tue Aug 17 20:13:51 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 19:13:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Message-ID: <448619.17932.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Thanks for the support, Paul. I'm sure I'll need it. Like you, think I'll make it a winter job along with replacing the break and gas lines. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 17, 2010, at 9:54 PM, "PG" wrote: I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 17 21:29:18 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:29:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Greg - All the rubbers should absolutely be replaced. If you can get some of the soft urethane replacements which Superflex in the UK sells, you should be in good shape. http://www.superflex.co.uk/index.php Alan On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:00 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While > looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to > myself,"Well, they're already half apart." > > So here are my questions: > > What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or > do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent > much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced > for sale. The rest wasn't. > > What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the > tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done > some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. > > Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? > > Greg > 65BJ8 Lady Spenser > > No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English > White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with > grace, style and class. > ________ From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Aug 17 21:51:44 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 20:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] damper oil again Message-ID: I had indicated my preference for Marvel Mystery oil the other day. I now wish to emphatically change my opinion. Last weekend we drove to the Napa wine area which was not real hot as it usually is (only 88 degrees).The drive down from Tahoe was fine (except the 30 miles of bumper to bumper traffic). On the way home I got back fire and erratic engine performance at low RPM . When we arrived home I checked everything and discovered virtually no oil in the dash tubes . What was there looked like it had water mixed in. Went back to 20-30 wt and everything is fine. An aside, we visited with Ken, the Healey guy who owns Elkhorn Peak winery. We had some of the best wines I can remember. Ken in a very interesting guy who collects everything. Great toys! If you are ever in the area, it is a must (appointment only) ! The view is awesome from the tasting room and Ken is a super nice guy. Richard Kahn From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 17 21:55:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 20:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: References: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6B59B3.7040603@comcast.net> Or you can try: http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=2&new=1 I just put new A-arm bushings in (he'll sell just those if that's all you need). Only one short trip so far, but I'm happy with the feel and the (lack of) noise. Tom guarantees satisfaction--no questions asked. A standup guy. bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > Greg - > > All the rubbers should absolutely be replaced. If you can get some of the > soft urethane replacements which Superflex in the UK sells, you should be in > good shape. > > http://www.superflex.co.uk/index.php > > Alan > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:00 AM, Greg Mandas wrote: > > >> Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While >> looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to >> myself,"Well, they're already half apart." >> >> So here are my questions: >> >> What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or >> do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent >> much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced >> for sale. The rest wasn't. >> >> What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the >> tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done >> some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. >> >> Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? >> >> Greg >> 65BJ8 Lady Spenser >> >> No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English >> White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with >> grace, style and class. >> ________ >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Tue Aug 17 21:58:50 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 20:58:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' Message-ID: <534005.40879.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen these types of repairs come through my shop.They do not work. Patching a chassis is just irresponsible. Your chassis is suffering from what is known as a compression buckle. Your chassis is sagging. This problem occurs in most Healeys. If your out riggers are rotted this only makes it worse. Welding strips of steel on the chassis will make it weaker. I know that will upset many on this site but that is true. The upper structure cannot be relied upon to strengthen the lower structure, this would be a mistake. The connecting points offer very little torsional rigidity. These repairs offer short term resolution. The Healey frame is a ladder monoque design, it does not provide torsional rigidity due to the light weight of the steel originally used . Torsional rigidity is essential to provide panel fit and handling. Patching as you are suggesting will lead to acceleration of structural failures in the performance and handling of the Austin Healey. In 27 years of doing Healey structures I have yet to have one of our Jule frames fail like the original chassis. If you choose to repair the chassis please be fair and disclose this at time of sale. It is a legal requirement in Ontario and elsewhere that a patched frame must be disclosed to a potential buyer. Happy Healeying Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 17 22:00:29 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:00:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814183748.01fe3f88@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814183748.01fe3f88@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100817205832.02038bc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> This is a repeat of my post last week; no responses so I am trying again. I want to zinc plate the housing. How is the cam removed from the shaft, is it a press fit, can it be removed fairly easily; if so how? TIA John Spaur '62 BT7 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 17 22:39:28 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:39:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100817205832.02038bc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814183748.01fe3f88@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100817205832.02038bc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6B6400.1000204@comcast.net> John, You probably got no replies because no one has tried this. If there's no set screw, it's probably--there's that word again--an interference fit. Frankly, I doubt you can get it off and back on without messing something up--I think you'd have to clamp the shaft in a vice and somehow pry the cam off, but you'd probably mess up the case. bs john spaur wrote: > This is a repeat of my post last week; no responses so I am trying again. > > I want to zinc plate the housing. > > How is the cam removed from the shaft, is it a press fit, can it be > removed fairly easily; if so how? > > TIA > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahpowered at hotmail.com Tue Aug 17 23:30:37 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:30:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity Message-ID: Hi all, I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement to the group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He rebuilt my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems awhile back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back (like a son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my case and when I installed it and drove it it failed. Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling Green, KY to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it in but now I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben (who has a killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions about this please email my other address that I check on a regular basis swillis at insightbb.com. Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope you agree. Support the Healey artists. Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Tue Aug 17 23:49:28 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 22:49:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and Canada, when he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). Anyone on the list???????? Don Lake Haven OZ From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue Aug 17 23:56:21 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 15:56:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502BF8B148F@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day Don Hardie I think you are being cheeky. I like it! Hoo Roo Patrick -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hardie Sent: Wednesday, 18 August 2010 3:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and Canada, when he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). Anyone on the list???????? Don Lake Haven OZ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From ktee20 at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 01:40:03 2010 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:40:03 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Leo Rouf and his integrity I Recently bought some BN1 box bits from Leo If he was not on the other side of the planet I would kiss him. If I keep recomending him to OZ customers he might run out of parts I had better keep mum, Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if I ever finish them On 18 August 2010 15:30, scott willis wrote: > Hi all, > I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement to the > group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He > rebuilt > my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems awhile > back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back (like > a > son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my case and > when I installed it and drove it it failed. > > Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling Green, > KY > to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it in but > now > I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben (who has > a > killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions about > this > please email my other address that I check on a regular basis > swillis at insightbb.com. > > Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this > knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope > you > agree. > > Support the Healey artists. > > Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 02:13:35 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 16:13:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought a BN1 gearbox and OD from him about 5 years ago, beautifully rebuilt. I almost simultaneously found a very good used box for not too much which I put in the BN1 so I'm keeping Leo's rebuilt box on the shelf as a backup. He definitely was first rate in everything, and the box looks perfect although I haven't actually run it! Alan On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 3:40 PM, keith taylor wrote: > Leo Rouf and his integrity > I Recently bought some BN1 box bits from Leo If he was not on the other > side of the planet I would kiss him. If I keep recomending him to OZ > customers he might run out of parts I had better keep mum, > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > BN1 > BN2 > 100M.......if I ever finish them > > On 18 August 2010 15:30, scott willis wrote: > > > Hi all, > > I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement to > the > > group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He > > rebuilt > > my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems awhile > > back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back > (like > > a > > son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my case > and > > when I installed it and drove it it failed. > > > > Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling > Green, > > KY > > to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it in but > > now > > I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben (who > has > > a > > killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions about > > this > > please email my other address that I check on a regular basis > > swillis at insightbb.com. > > > > Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this > > knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope > > you > > agree. > > > > Support the Healey artists. > > > > Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > Scott Willis > > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > > 59 MGA > > 66 E-Type FHC > > > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > > Bowling Green, KY From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 02:53:37 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:53:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Well, Don, if I remember correctly there are still over 700 Healeys on the road in Holland, but I see only two or three Dutch guys on this forum. Your chances are rather dim, I would say. At least it wasn't me: first of all being a Rotterdam born guy I hate Amstedam, and secondly my car is BRG. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/8/18 Don Hardie > A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and Canada, > when > he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). > Anyone on the > list???????? > > Don > Lake Haven OZ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 04:24:04 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:24:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1DF5D9E3-D3C4-45E2-92FB-9152F0987C13@gmail.com> It wasn't me Don. i.e I wasn't your Australian friend and BJ8 owner who recently had a holiday in Canada and Holland. I don't remember having ever seen a gunmetal grey big Healey. Ever. I have, however, seen a Katoomba Grey Sprite. But that was at Lawson, not Katoomba. Around midday. Katoomba Grey Sprites are invisible for much of the day in the Blue Mountains..... ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 18/08/2010, at 3:49 PM, Don Hardie wrote: > A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and > Canada, > when > he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). > Anyone on the > list???????? > > Don > Lake Haven OZ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 04:43:22 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 18:43:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don - Was it this Austin Healey? http://www.nhra.com/blog/dragster-insider/2008/12/18/34443/ Alan On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:49 PM, Don Hardie wrote: > A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and Canada, > when > he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). > Anyone on the > list???????? > > Don > Lake Haven OZ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Wed Aug 18 04:58:23 2010 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 06:58:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C602AB4-F2DD-4414-ACE7-0D3B686CF941@cgocable.ca> ((((Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope you agree.(((( I agree 100 % and salute him from Quibec Gilbert BT7 Le 10-08-18 ` 01:30, scott willis a icrit : > Hi all, > I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement > to the > group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He > rebuilt > my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems > awhile > back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back > (like a > son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my > case and > when I installed it and drove it it failed. > > Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling > Green, KY > to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it > in but now > I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben > (who has a > killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions > about this > please email my other address that I check on a regular basis > swillis at insightbb.com. > > Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this > knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I > hope you > agree. > > Support the Healey artists. > > Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Aug 18 06:24:24 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 12:24:24 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity Message-ID: <20100818.082424.25679.0@webmail17.dca.untd.com> Hi all, I heartily concur!! Leo is an anomaly in this world of greed and profit. He actually answers the phone and will talk to you at length. He is the Boy Scout creed - honest, trustworthy, loyal, courteous, kind..... A man of his word and someone we should support. Doug Hi all, I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement to the group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He rebuilt my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems awhile back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back (like a son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my case and when I installed it and drove it it failed. Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling Green, KY to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it in but now I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben (who has a killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions about this please email my other address that I check on a regular basis swillis at insightbb.com. Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope you agree. Support the Healey artists. Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ 2010 College Grants Get Up To $5,550 Per Year in University Grants. Get More Info Today http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c6bd14be08cb7479d1st03duc From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 18 06:32:08 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:32:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <000001cb3e78$4f95b500$eec11f00$@ca> References: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <000001cb3e78$4f95b500$eec11f00$@ca> Message-ID: <002a01cb3ed1$5ffec450$1ffc4cf0$@net> Ball joints? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:55 PM To: 'Greg Mandas'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. From GABLEG at ecu.edu Wed Aug 18 06:40:34 2010 From: GABLEG at ecu.edu (Gable, Gerry) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 08:40:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity In-Reply-To: <2C602AB4-F2DD-4414-ACE7-0D3B686CF941@cgocable.ca> References: <2C602AB4-F2DD-4414-ACE7-0D3B686CF941@cgocable.ca> Message-ID: <6B7C343F815BFB4C8FE918CBC25BF6A91D21D60C21@ECUMB1.intra.ecu.edu> I had dealt with Leo when I lived in Ohio. I have to echo all the accolades I have been reading. Much more of a great person than some I have met (like Shane Miller who could take some lessons on civility fro Leo). If I ever get back into Healey's Leo would be my first contact. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gilbert gauthier Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 6:58 AM To: scott willis Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leo Rouf and his integrity ((((Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I hope you agree.(((( I agree 100 % and salute him from Quibec Gilbert BT7 Le 10-08-18 ` 01:30, scott willis a icrit : > Hi all, > I am not sure how politically correct it is to send this endorsement > to the > group but I really don't care. I think you should know about Leo. He > rebuilt > my tranny awhile back. I installed it awhile back. It had problems > awhile > back. His father has dementia and he took him in from FL awhile back > (like a > son should). He bought and installed a defective new part into my > case and > when I installed it and drove it it failed. > > Once we diagnosed the problem he drove from Columbus, OH to Bowling > Green, KY > to install a newly rebuilt tranny. We had fun yesterday putting it > in but now > I need a chiropractor. That is a long trip for him and his pal Ben > (who has a > killer modified BN6 and has also had many Healeys). Any questions > about this > please email my other address that I check on a regular basis > swillis at insightbb.com. > > Leo is a real man of his word. It is very rare to find someone this > knowledgeable about Healeys. We need to support these Healey guys. I > hope you > agree. > > Support the Healey artists. > > Leo: 614-261-6252 Columbus, OH > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk at cgocable.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gableg at ecu.edu From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 06:47:34 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 05:47:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <4C6B59B3.7040603@comcast.net> References: <4C6ABB57.7050009@htcnet.org> <80234.46048.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <4C6B59B3.7040603@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C6BD666.2000006@comcast.net> Have been advised our own Ed (shop at justbrits.com) sells these too. bs Bob Spidell wrote: > Or you can try: > > http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=2&new=1 > > I just put new A-arm bushings in (he'll sell just those if that's all > you need). Only one short trip so far, but I'm happy with the feel > and the (lack of) noise. > Tom guarantees satisfaction--no questions asked. A standup guy. > > > bs > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Greg - >> >> All the rubbers should absolutely be replaced. If you can get some >> of the >> soft urethane replacements which Superflex in the UK sells, you >> should be in >> good shape. >> >> http://www.superflex.co.uk/index.php >> >> Alan ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed Aug 18 07:12:03 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 09:12:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100817205832.02038bc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100814183748.01fe3f88@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100817205832.02038bc0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6BDC23.5040503@htcnet.org> I seem to recall I just left it on after removing the contacts and lever and plating the whole thing, worked fine. John On 8/18/2010 12:00 AM, john spaur wrote: > This is a repeat of my post last week; no responses so I am trying again. > > I want to zinc plate the housing. > > How is the cam removed from the shaft, is it a press fit, can it be > removed fairly easily; if so how? > > TIA > John Spaur From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 08:34:16 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:34:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <002a01cb3ed1$5ffec450$1ffc4cf0$@net> Message-ID: <994384.97223.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Yes, Replaced left outter just after purchase and right was good to go. --- On Wed, 8/18/10, Ron Ray wrote: From: Ron Ray Subject: RE: [Healeys] Front Suspension To: "'PG'" , "'Greg Mandas'" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, August 18, 2010, 8:32 AM Ball joints? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:55 PM To: 'Greg Mandas'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Aug 18 08:50:17 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:50:17 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 Message-ID: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> In a message dated 8/17/10 10:55:11 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Mark, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen these types of repairs > come > through my shop.They do not work. Patching a chassis is just > irresponsible. > Your chassis is suffering from what is known as a compression buckle. Your > chassis is sagging. This problem occurs in most Healeys. If your out > riggers > are rotted this only makes it worse. Welding strips of steel on the > chassis > will make it weaker. I know that will upset many on this site but that is > true. > The upper structure cannot be relied upon to strengthen the lower > structure, > this would be a mistake. The connecting points offer very little > torsional > rigidity. These repairs offer short term resolution. > The Healey frame is a ladder monoque design, it does not provide torsional > rigidity due to the light weight of the steel originally used . Torsional > rigidity is essential to provide panel fit and handling. Patching as you > are > suggesting will lead to acceleration of structural failures in the > performance and handling of the Austin Healey. > In 27 years of doing Healey structures I have yet to have one of our Jule > frames fail like the original chassis. > If you choose to repair the chassis please > be fair and disclose this at time > of sale. It is a legal requirement in Ontario and elsewhere that a patched > frame must be disclosed to a potential buyer. > Happy Healeying Marty www.jule-enterprises.com > Do we really condone advertorials on this list? This is nothing but an advertise masquerading as advice. I realized that Marty at Jule beleives that his replacement design to the original Healey frame is what Donald and Geoff would have done had they been as smart as him, but the fact is that there are excellent replacement frames available done to the original design. In any case, just because a frame sags doesn't prima facie prove that it must be replaced. Many restorer/rebuilders do excellent jobs of repairing frames to original specifications if they aren't too far gone. That having been said, I think there is general agreement that patches are not the way to go. Gary From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 18 09:11:31 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:11:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension In-Reply-To: <994384.97223.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <002a01cb3ed1$5ffec450$1ffc4cf0$@net> <994384.97223.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003201cb3ee7$a41d4420$ec57cc60$@net> I think you either mean tie rod (cross arm) ends or the steering side rods. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 9:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension Yes, Replaced left outter just after purchase and right was good to go. --- On Wed, 8/18/10, Ron Ray wrote: From: Ron Ray Subject: RE: [Healeys] Front Suspension To: "'PG'" , "'Greg Mandas'" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, August 18, 2010, 8:32 AM Ball joints? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:55 PM To: 'Greg Mandas'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 09:30:53 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:30:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion Message-ID: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. It is located in Lenox, MA [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 18 09:31:49 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 15:31:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sagging frame In-Reply-To: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> References: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> Message-ID: Good thing, or my wife would have replaced me a while back ... ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: Editorgary at aol.com > just because a frame sags doesn't prima facie prove that it must be replaced. From rantal243 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 10:37:18 2010 From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 09:37:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure Message-ID: <374298.40355.qm@web30003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings Healeyphiles, I drive a '65 BJ8 with an OD rebuilt ten years ago. At that time, the solenoid was replaced. Over the past ten years, the OD would occasionally fail to engage when the dash switch was activated. Usually flicking the switch several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. I thought the problem must be in the electric circuitry so over the years, I have replaced all the components except the solenoid. The OD functioned perfectly for the past 2000 miles or so until last week when it began failing to engage and got rapidly worse until I was unable to activate the OD except by turning off the engine and then restarting. The dash switch would then activate the OD only once and if I flicked it out of OD, it would not reengage if I again activated the dash switch. I finally connected a test light to the solenoid. Don't ask why I didn't do that years ago. The test light showed that the electrical circuit was intact and that depressing the dash switch always lit the test light, even when the OD failed to engage. When I'm parked, I can move the shifter from neutral to 3rd/4th and always hear the solenoid click in and out. The fluid level (30wt oil) in the transmission is adequate. So wherein lies the problem? Do I need a new solenoid, readjust the solenoid, or another OD rebuild? Thanks for any advice. rich antal From gmandas at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 10:49:06 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 09:49:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Message-ID: <40630.28930.qm@web56101.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Yes, sorry. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 18, 2010, at 11:11 AM, "Ron Ray" wrote: I think you either mean tie rod (cross arm) ends or the steering side rods. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 9:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension Yes, Replaced left outter just after purchase and right was good to go. --- On Wed, 8/18/10, Ron Ray wrote: From: Ron Ray Subject: RE: [Healeys] Front Suspension To: "'PG'" , "'Greg Mandas'" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, August 18, 2010, 8:32 AM Ball joints? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:55 PM To: 'Greg Mandas'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Suspension I did my front end this last winter. (steering and idling box, ball joints, trunion bushings, control arm bushings etc.).....not a problem. Even did my own front end alignment. When you're doing it, I and I'm certain that many others on this list will help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front Suspension Ok, I got a call from Peter and the shocks are on their way back. While looking at the front suspension, contemplating reassembly, I think to myself,"Well, they're already half apart." So here are my questions: What do I look for in evaluating weather or not to rebuild the front end or do I just do (or don't) do it.? The car has only 37K miles on it and spent much of the last 30 years in a barn. The sway bar is new. It was replaced for sale. The rest wasn't. What is the skill level required to rebuild the front end? Under the tutelage of a professional mechanic I have replaced a lot of parts and done some wiring, but when it came to rebuilding the carbs he took that one on. Are there any better instructions on the job than in the green book? Greg 65BJ8 Lady Spenser No; I don't have a thing the British Royals. She's Blonde (Old English White), beautiful and although feisty at times, she handles herself with grace, style and class. From rpschauss at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 11:14:39 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:14:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure In-Reply-To: <374298.40355.qm@web30003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <374298.40355.qm@web30003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rich, I would start by adjusting the solenoid paying particular attention to the end float on the actuating shaft. (The spec for that is in the manual.) While you are doing that, check that the rubber pad that the plunger rests on is in place. If the plunger goes too far down in the off position, the solenoid is not strong enough to pull it up. Also, check that the pull-in winding is working properly by checking that the resistance changes when the plunger is in the fully up position and the pull-in winding is cut out. I had a somewhat similar problem several years ago where the pull-in winding was partially shorted out. Evenutally the solenoid got too weak to operate the actuating valve. In my case the current draw from the pull-in winding was so great that the needle on the gas guage would actually deflect when I engaged the overdrive. I bought a new solenoid. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:37 PM, Richard Antal wrote: > Greetings Healeyphiles, > I drive a '65 BJ8 with an OD rebuilt ten years ago. At that time, the > solenoid was replaced. Over the past ten years, the OD would occasionally fail > to engage when the dash switch was activated. Usually flicking the switch > several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. I thought the problem > must be in the electric circuitry so over the years, I have replaced all the > components except the solenoid. The OD functioned perfectly for the past 2000 > miles or so until last week when it began failing to engage and got rapidly > worse until I was unable to activate the OD except by turning off the engine and > then restarting. The dash switch would then activate the OD only once and if I > flicked it out of OD, it would not reengage if I again activated the dash > switch. I finally connected a test light to the solenoid. Don't ask why I didn't > do that years ago. The test light showed that the electrical circuit was intact > and that depressing the dash switch always lit the test light, even when the OD > failed to engage. When I'm parked, I can move the shifter from neutral to > 3rd/4th and always hear the solenoid click in and out. The fluid level (30wt > oil) in the transmission is adequate. So wherein lies the problem? Do I need a > new solenoid, readjust the solenoid, or another OD rebuild? Thanks for any > advice. > rich antal From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 18 11:33:45 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:33:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <4C6B7A4A.9040704@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <33276.4315.qm@web81804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Because Roger's instructions only deal with bending the tabs; not removing the cam shaft which needs to be accomplished to zinc plate the case. --- On Tue, 8/17/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: From: Shop at " Just Brits " Subject: Re: xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild To: "john spaur" Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 11:14 PM er, since you HAD [and apparently followed] Roger's Instructions, WHY "re-ask the List, John??? Curious Ed !!!! From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 11:41:13 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:41:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> Message-ID: any idea on what a current set up would cost? On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. It > is located in Lenox, MA > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From mbuggy at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 11:49:07 2010 From: mbuggy at gmail.com (mark buggy) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:49:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Frame 'add ons' Message-ID: Thanks to all who replied, with the comments on the frame. "What you almost certainly have there are ends of outriggers and the inner sills that have deteriorated, allowing the body structure to sag, causing your problem. The frame members will flex by themselves, because the frame components are only a portion of the strength of the car." Well my outriggers definately need replacement, so I'll start with that repair first and see how it helps. best, Mark From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 11:53:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:53:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure In-Reply-To: <374298.40355.qm@web30003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1762230446.20655.1282153985857.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hoo boy. Where to start ... First, there are O/D gurus on the List, I'll let them give specifics but, basically, diagnosing O/D problems--at least half of them are actually in the electrics (like carburetors)--has to be systematic; i.e. start with pump pressure, etc. Couple of obvious things: - How did you test "the dash switch always lit the test light, even when the OD failed to engage?" You'd have to do that while driving (no O/D oil pressure==no engage) - " When I'm parked, I can move the shifter from neutral to 3rd/4th and always hear the solenoid click in and out." You're hearing the 3rd/4th 'lockout' switch--one possible cause of your problem--not the solenoid - "Usually flicking the switch several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. " Bad dash switch will behave like this. I've installed several dash switches over the years, and the O/D relay will go intermittent sooner or later (you can open them up and clean the points if you're careful). FWIW, my original solenoid has 170K miles and still works fine. The 'green book' (Bentley reprint of the shop manual) has a procedure for diagnosing the electricals that is actually pretty good. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Greetings Healeyphiles, I drive a '65 BJ8 with an OD rebuilt ten years ago. At that time, the solenoid was replaced. Over the past ten years, the OD would occasionally fail to engage when the dash switch was activated. Usually flicking the switch several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. I thought the problem must be in the electric circuitry so over the years, I have replaced all the components except the solenoid. The OD functioned perfectly for the past 2000 miles or so until last week when it began failing to engage and got rapidly worse until I was unable to activate the OD except by turning off the engine and then restarting. The dash switch would then activate the OD only once and if I flicked it out of OD, it would not reengage if I again activated the dash switch. I finally connected a test light to the solenoid. Don't ask why I didn't do that years ago. The test light showed that the electrical circuit was intact and that depressing the dash switch always lit the test light, even when the OD failed to engage. When I'm parked, I can move the shifter from neutral to 3rd/4th and always hear the solenoid click in and out. The fluid level (30wt oil) in the transmission is adequate. So wherein lies the problem? Do I need a new solenoid, readjust the solenoid, or another OD rebuild? Thanks for any advice. rich antal _______________________________________________ From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 12:08:30 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:08:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> $ 1.800.oo Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: I Erbs To: Charlie Baldwin Cc: healey list Sent: Wed, August 18, 2010 12:41:13 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion any idea on what a current set up would cost? On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. It > is located in Lenox, MA > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 12:17:14 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:17:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: OK. looks like a deal, if the tranny works.... On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:08 AM, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote: > $ 1.800.oo > > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* I Erbs > *To:* Charlie Baldwin > *Cc:* healey list > *Sent:* Wed, August 18, 2010 12:41:13 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion > > any idea on what a current set up would cost? > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin >wrote: > > > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. It > > is located in Lenox, MA > > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > > of mgcharlie.vcf] > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 18 12:21:41 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 18:21:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <33276.4315.qm@web81804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <4C6B7A4A.9040704@justbrits.com>, <33276.4315.qm@web81804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So now we're getting triple-x rated emails to the list? The good stuff must have been stopped by MJB. ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > > Curious Ed !!!! > _______________________________________________ From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 12:27:33 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:27:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6C2615.8010306@comcast.net> That probably does not include the transmission, though I don't know what Pete Delaney's kit is up to now. $750 is a bargain, but additional components can be purchased from Pete if something is missing. Josi Vicente Vargas wrote: > $ 1.800.oo > > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* I Erbs > *To:* Charlie Baldwin > *Cc:* healey list > *Sent:* Wed, August 18, 2010 12:41:13 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion > > any idea on what a current set up would cost? > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin > >wrote: > > > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. It > > is located in Lenox, MA [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 12:29:13 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:29:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <416912.30699.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6C2679.5020902@comcast.net> Shipping could increase cost quite a bit if it is far. I Erbs wrote: > OK. looks like a deal, if the tranny works.... > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 11:08 AM, Josi Vicente Vargas > > wrote: > > $ 1.800.oo > > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > > > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* I Erbs > > *To:* Charlie Baldwin > > *Cc:* healey list > > *Sent:* Wed, August 18, 2010 12:41:13 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion > > any idea on what a current set up would cost? > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin > >wrote: > > > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It > includes > > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of > $750. It > > is located in Lenox, MA > > > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which > had a name > > of mgcharlie.vcf] > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 12:29:57 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:29:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> Message-ID: <882010.64678.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ultimately it's Mark's decision, but I'm not getting any heartburn over this. (Maybe from the Ipswich Fried Clam Roll for lunch, but not this) Lister asked a question, Marty gave him some advice. I'm happy when the pros, especially the independents trying to make a living catering to our cars, weigh in. Marty has developed a product that has saved quite a few Healeys, I'm not even a little concerned if he throws in a plug at the end. BTW, no financial interest, no Jule frame, never met Marty. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Wed, 8/18/10, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: From: Editorgary at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, August 18, 2010, 10:50 AM In a message dated 8/17/10 10:55:11 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: Do we really condone advertorials on this list? This is nothing but an advertise masquerading as advice. I realized that Marty at Jule beleives that his replacement design to the original Healey frame is what Donald and Geoff would have done had they been as smart as him, but the fact is that there are excellent replacement frames available done to the original design. In any case, just because a frame sags doesn't prima facie prove that it must be replaced. Many restorer/rebuilders do excellent jobs of repairing frames to original specifications if they aren't too far gone. That having been said, I think there is general agreement that patches are not the way to go. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From pyoas at yahoo.com Wed Aug 18 12:31:46 2010 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:31:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure Message-ID: <773251.69805.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Rick & Peter, I had a very similar problem with my overdrive. The Solenoid checked good without the car moving however, the pull down winding was weak and would not do its job when the car was moving. I changed the solenoid and it took care of the problem. Patrick 67BJ8 Rich, I would start by adjusting the solenoid paying particular attention to the end float on the actuating shaft. (The spec for that is in the manual.) While you are doing that, check that the rubber pad that the plunger rests on is in place. If the plunger goes too far down in the off position, the solenoid is not strong enough to pull it up. Also, check that the pull-in winding is working properly by checking that the resistance changes when the plunger is in the fully up position and the pull-in winding is cut out. I had a somewhat similar problem several years ago where the pull-in winding was partially shorted out. Evenutally the solenoid got too weak to operate the actuating valve. In my case the current draw from the pull-in winding was so great that the needle on the gas guage would actually deflect when I engaged the overdrive. I bought a new solenoid. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:37 PM, Richard Antal wrote: > Greetings Healeyphiles, > I drive a '65 BJ8 with an OD rebuilt ten years ago. At that time, the > solenoid was replaced. Over the past ten years, the OD would occasionally fail > to engage when the dash switch was activated. Usually flicking the switch > several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. I thought the problem > must be in the electric circuitry so over the years, I have replaced all the > components except the solenoid. The OD functioned perfectly for the past 2000 > miles or so until last week when it began failing to engage and got rapidly > worse until I was unable to activate the OD except by turning off the engine and > then restarting. The dash switch would then activate the OD only once and if I > flicked it out of OD, it would not reengage if I again activated the dash > switch. I finally connected a test light to the solenoid. Don't ask why I didn't > do that years ago. The test light showed that the electrical circuit was intact > and that depressing the dash switch always lit the test light, even when the OD > failed to engage. When I'm parked, I can move the shifter from neutral to > 3rd/4th and always hear the solenoid click in and out. The fluid level (30wt > oil) in the transmission is adequate. So wherein lies the problem? Do I need a > new solenoid, readjust the solenoid, or another OD rebuild? Thanks for any > advice. > rich antal From loftusdesign at cox.net Wed Aug 18 12:37:09 2010 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:37:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild Message-ID: <4C6C2855.2090005@cox.net> Hi John, I left the cam and shafts installed when I zinc plated mine. I removed the spring, glass bead blasted the parts and sprayed electrical contact cleaner while moving the cam to remove any residual glass beads. After the plating I oiled the shaft and used some grease on the cam surface, and thin smear of black permatex form-a-gasket on the cork before installing. Here's some before/after pics. Think it will be good for at least another 40 years. ;-) http://www.loftusdesign.net/TS_before.JPG http://www.loftusdesign.net/TS_after.JPG Cheers, John From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 18 13:05:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:05:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <819601199.24949.1282158354853.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> This way, when your SO peeks over your shoulder she'll be relieved thinking it's only porn, and that you're not going to spend the grocery budget on more Healey stuff. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA So now we're getting triple-x rated emails to the list? The good stuff must have been stopped by MJB. ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > > Curious Ed !!!! > _______________________________________________ From wpollock at inbox.com Wed Aug 18 13:06:44 2010 From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 15:06:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN 6 for sale Message-ID: <8AAE5EC226B946659A863BED106E1C73@saybrook1> I have no interest in vehicle,I just looked at it on a local dealers lot. Its a BN6,red over black,black and red interior and OD. I saw the BMIHT dated 2003 and it was built July '58. Its being sold as a 1959 model year. Did not drive nor look at the engine but the car looks good. Asking price is 35950. Anyone interested contact me and I will give you the dealers name and phone number. Bill Pollock CT ____________________________________________________________ FREE 3D MARINE AQUARIUM SCREENSAVER - Watch dolphins, sharks & orcas on your desktop! Check it out at http://www.inbox.com/marineaquarium From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 18 13:17:42 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:17:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <819601199.24949.1282158354853.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: , <819601199.24949.1282158354853.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: :) She's not overly concerned about the "car porn". Robert Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:05:54 +0000 From: bspidell at comcast.net To: robertduquette at sympatico.ca CC: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild This way, when your SO peeks over your shoulder she'll be relieved thinking it's only porn, and that you're not going to spend the grocery budget on more Healey stuff. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA So now we're getting triple-x rated emails to the list? The good stuff must have been stopped by MJB. ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > > Curious Ed !!!! > _______________________________________________ From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 13:40:04 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 12:40:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] xxx---ealeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild In-Reply-To: <819601199.24949.1282158354853.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <819601199.24949.1282158354853.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Lol On Aug 18, 2010 12:39 PM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: This way, when your SO peeks over your shoulder she'll be relieved thinking it's only porn, and that you're not going to spend the grocery budget on more Healey stuff. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA So now we're getting triple-x rated emails to the list? The good stuff must have been stopped by... From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Aug 18 14:42:15 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:42:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure In-Reply-To: <773251.69805.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <773251.69805.qm@web112515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > to engage when the dash switch was activated. Usually flicking the switch > > several times would eventually result in the OD engaging. > My first thought in reading this is that there is some flaky connections in the electrical circuit and you are getting too much of a voltage drop in the circuit for the solenoid to operate. Just because the test light lights, that does not mean there is enough current for the solenoid to operate. If I were fault tracing this, I would start doing voltage drop tests to determine if there is excessive resistance in the overdrive circuit. if you do a Google search on voltage drop test, you should get instructions on how to do one. If you can't find any instructions or they don't make sense, I will be happy to post how to do this test tonight. Rick From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Wed Aug 18 18:41:48 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:41:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: <560777.35315.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65772.32735.qm@web113103.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Alan I don't think so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to those that responded and I'll pass them on to my friend. Don BN1 Lake Haven OZ ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist To: Don Hardie Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 18 August, 2010 8:43:22 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject) Don - Was it this Austin Healey? http://www.nhra.com/blog/dragster-insider/2008/12/18/34443/ Alan On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:49 PM, Don Hardie wrote: A friend ( a BJ8 owner) just came back from a trip to Holland and Canada, >when >he was in Amsterdam he saw a Gunmetal Grey 6 (?). >Anyone on the >list???????? > >Don >Lake Haven OZ >_______________________________________________ >Healeys at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From tomleavy at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 05:41:30 2010 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 11:41:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] PCV Negatives Message-ID: <839251405.183056.1282218090010.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Ray- Have you considered using a carbon canister? Actually, there is exactly such a unit fitted to 71-73 mustangs (at least those equipped with the 351). I'm sure there are many units to choose from. Regards, Thomas Leavy Oceanport, NJ From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Thu Aug 19 07:59:25 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:59:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> References: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> Message-ID: <000101cb3fa6$c91308e0$5b391aa0$@com> Yes we condone it... In fact we encourage those with expertise to provide advice. I would hardly call one sentence in the middle of a discussion of a technical topic to be offensive. I find it remarkable that Gary decides to make such a comment about Martin's post when we very rarely hear from Martin; yet on the other hand, we hear nothing from Gary when the Nocks' or Ed provide postings... I find the Nocks, Martin, Ed to be very helpful with expert advice/opinions that are very much worth sharing. I would wish that we had even more technical advice postings from experts such as them, and Bruce and Inan as well...people who love and work on these cars are the ones we should be encouraging to provide information (and services). Really!..one sentence in the middle of Martin's response and Gary raises concerns???? Shame on Gary. Thanks -skip- BJ8, BJ7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 10:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In a message dated 8/17/10 10:55:11 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: Do we really condone advertorials on this list? This is nothing but an advertise masquerading as advice. .... Gary _______________________________________________ From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 08:22:37 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:22:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion Message-ID: The URL to information is http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/673319/Pete_Delaney_Smitty_s_5_Speed_ While the kit doesn't include the transmission. Having it and some of the parts ts is a definite plus. However, just a quick comparison with the list at the URL indicates many missing parts. Google "Smitty conversion" and you will get a number of comments on the unit. Jack From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Aug 19 09:05:32 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:05:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <000101cb3fa6$c91308e0$5b391aa0$@com> Message-ID: <28AA980CBCA34D52BDF9F633A4DB7DDA@DANSTROM> I will say this about Marty. At the last conclave he was out there in the parking lot sweating and working on cars and providing advice all day long. Thursday it was real hot. Same as Rich and a few others. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Saunders Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:59 AM To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 Yes we condone it... In fact we encourage those with expertise to provide advice. I would hardly call one sentence in the middle of a discussion of a technical topic to be offensive. I find it remarkable that Gary decides to make such a comment about Martin's post when we very rarely hear from Martin; yet on the other hand, we hear nothing from Gary when the Nocks' or Ed provide postings... I find the Nocks, Martin, Ed to be very helpful with expert advice/opinions that are very much worth sharing. I would wish that we had even more technical advice postings from experts such as them, and Bruce and Inan as well...people who love and work on these cars are the ones we should be encouraging to provide information (and services). Really!..one sentence in the middle of Martin's response and Gary raises concerns???? Shame on Gary. Thanks -skip- BJ8, BJ7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 10:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In a message dated 8/17/10 10:55:11 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: Do we really condone advertorials on this list? This is nothing but an advertise masquerading as advice. .... Gary _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 19 09:15:13 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 08:15:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <000101cb3fa6$c91308e0$5b391aa0$@com> References: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> <000101cb3fa6$c91308e0$5b391aa0$@com> Message-ID: With some trepidation, I need to comment on Gary's and Skip's comments. I am very glad that Jule frames exist for those who might need them. But I have to stand with Gary. There is a fine line between the Nocks' or Ed's comments "Yeah, I've got that part." or "We always use Redline." and words to the effect that your car will break in two if you don't replace the frame (with mine). I think Martin could say "I've never found frame repairs to work well. That's why I build new frames." That leaves room for further discussion among those whose experience with frame repairs is different. For any further discussion on this topic with me, please email me directly. Now, please, back to Positive Crankcase Ventilation and front suspension repairs. -Roland On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:59:25 -0400, Skip wrote: :: Really!..one sentence in the middle of ::Martin's response and Gary raises concerns???? From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Aug 19 09:20:43 2010 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 11:20:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Hearse Wanted Message-ID: <8783359.1282231243955.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> My old friend Randy has a client who is dying to get into one of these - They are pretty rare in the US. They are based on the car that we know as an Austin or Van Den Plas "Princess" and usually seen in RHD limousine form, though I have seen a few of the shorter wheelbase "Sheerline"sedans. Sometimes they are fitted with Rolls Royce grilles. Anyone seen one of these??? ******************************************************************* ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Randolph Williams WANTED DEAD OR ALIVE: AUSTIN SHEERLINE HEARSE OR AMBULANCE A110, A125, A135 PRINCESS ANY CONDITION See more information at: http://www.collectioncar.com/detailed.php?ad=2441&category_id=13 Please contact: Randolph Williams DOLPHNX at AOL.COM 1 310 827 2727 www.DolphnProductions.com Los Angeles From gardner5 at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 09:52:28 2010 From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:52:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling In-Reply-To: <4C6893F3.6090000@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1035248298.69798.1282233148904.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Had the same problem with my BN2/100M.B Picked up some octane booster 104 fron the local NAPA and added it to premium fuel...no more dieseling. Joel BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 6:27:15 PM Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Dieseling Listers, I know this topic has gotten flogged many times before, but we're having a severe dieseling (runon) problem with our BN2/100M. B Carbs rebuilt, otherwise running good, but she refuses to shut down. B Have cut the idle way down and retarded the timing a it, mixture is spot on according to Colortunes and 'lift test,' coolant temp OK. B One data point: if we pull out the choke when turning the ignition off she shuts down immediately. All suggestions, SWAGs, etc. welcome. TIA, bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell B B B B B San Jose, CA B B B B B B bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gardner5 at comcast.net From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Aug 19 09:54:20 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 08:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start Message-ID: I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't kick on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key again. The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the ignition switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? Thanks. Rich Kahn From jpayne at ThorCon.net Thu Aug 19 10:02:34 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:02:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Hearse Wanted In-Reply-To: <8783359.1282231243955.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <8783359.1282231243955.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Dying to get into a hearse seems like the hard way............. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 thorcon.net "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 10:06:55 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:06:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 1 Message-ID: On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:42 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: If you can't find any instructions or they don't make sense, I will be happy to post how to do this test tonight. Rick I had a couple of people write and ask me to post the procedure to the list, so I will. Before I get into the specifics of the OD circuit, I am going to explain how an ohmmeter works, the problem with using an ohmmeter to find resistance, why this is so, a little on ohms law, the advantage of testing the circuit dynamically, how do the test, how to interpret the results and finally how to use the test to isolate problems. (Sorry if this seems long and ambling, but you can take the instructor out of the classroom, but you can't take the classroom out of the instructor, so grab a beverage and let's go) How an ohmmeter works: an ohmmeter puts a very small voltage (about .6-.75 Volts at 0.no amps) out on one lead, and measures what comes back on the other lead. The circuitry then calculates the resistance based on the return voltage. This is fine for large resistances, but does not work very well for small resistances in automotive applications. The problem with an ohmmeter to find a resistance problem: Consider your basic LBC starter motor circuit + cable--> Battery --> - cable (long bastard under the car)--> solenoid -->cable -->starter --> engine ground strap (assuming a + ground car) One day after a spirited drive the car won't start. You use an ohmmeter to check the continuity on the battery cables, both show good. So You replace the battery. No joy. You replace the starter. No joy. You replace the solenoid. No joy. You replace the ground cable, and ground strap even though they test good. No joy. You have now replaced every part in the starting circuit except for that long bastard cable under the car. So you climb under the car to get it out so that you can get one made and you find that on your last drive you hit a rock that somehow hit the cable and severed 99 out of the 100 strands of copper inside the negative cable. There is only one single solitary strand of wire connecting the two parts of the cable. "But I tested it, and it tested good" you cry. Yup you did, and yes it did. The problem is the ohmmeter is a static test at 0.no amps. As long as that one last strand is intact, the cable shows good with an ohmmeter. The problem is the starter motor requires 100 amps or more to start your LBC. There is no way in hell you can pump 100 A though that one strand. What you need is a dynamic test that tests the circuit under actual operating condition. (more follows) From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 10:10:03 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 2 Message-ID: A bit about Ohm's law. E=IR or if your prefer V= A X R. Think of Ohm's law as a teeter totter. For any given voltage if resistance goes up, amperage goes down. If resistance goes down amperage goes up. If the resistance remains constant and the current draw goes up, the voltage drop goes up. So when subjected to a 100A draw the resistance of the battery cable caused a huge voltage drop which caused the car not to start. (I actually had this exact problem on a car that got towed in once, there were 15 strands out of a 200 or so, the car did not start.) let's do a bit of math Example 1 100A X .005 ohm resistance in cable = .5 volt drop in the cable not bad. Example 2 100A X .05 ohm resistance in cable = 5 volt drop, car probably won't start. A dynamic test If there was only a way to test a circuit dynamically you cry. Ah grasshopper there is. Rather than measure the resistance and try and guess the effect on a circuit, how about we just measure the voltage lost due to the resistance while the circuit is in operation. We will then know instantly if there is a problem. Even better if we go and fix something we can retest at will and see the effect our repairs. How to do the test: What you will need: You basic DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) It can be a $20 special from Radio Shack or Harbor Freight or a Fluke 88 Depending on the length of circuit some jumper wires with alligator clips "I got that", you say, "how do I do the test?" OK let's go back to our basic LBC starter circuit + cable--> Battery --> - cable (long bastard under the car)--> solenoid -->cable -->starter --> engine ground strap (assuming a + ground car) We want to test the negative cable circuit Here is how: 1. Connect one lead from the DVOM to the negative battery post. 2. Connect the other DVOM lead (using jumper wires as needed) to the battery cable lead on the starter. 3. Set the DVOM to read DC voltage (now this next step is critical, write this down, highlight it if you print these instructions but for God's sake don't forget this step) 4. Energize the circuit, in this case crank the car. The reading will fluctuate a bit and after a few second settle down to one value. This value is your reading. Write it down Please note you are not disconnecting anything, you are adding the voltmeter in parallel to the existing battery cable. (more follows) From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 19 10:14:29 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 12:14:29 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 Message-ID: <12ccad.3c74ed82.399eb265@aol.com> In a message dated 8/19/10 7:00:14 AM, tfsbj7 at mindspring.com writes: > Shame on Gary. > > Whew. Pretty strong stuff. But it's only one sentence at the end of a long posting, so I guess I'll ignore it. Gary From dwflagg at juno.com Thu Aug 19 10:18:31 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:18:31 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 Message-ID: <20100819.121831.24020.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com> Roland, With all due respect, this is a list issue and you are not the moderator. I read Martin's comments and it didn't even once enter my mind that he was "hawking" his wares. I found his comments educational. I also know, as should most members of this list, that there are other quality frame replacements available. I think what Martin was implying is that the type of repair mentioned may lead to frame failure, and he offered an alternative. I think that way too many people spend way too much time trying to read between the lines to find an offensive remark or infraction of the "rules". Did you lose sleep over Martin's post? Did you lose money or your health? No, than get a life and move on. Doug With some trepidation, I need to comment on Gary's and Skip's comments. I am very glad that Jule frames exist for those who might need them. But I have to stand with Gary. There is a fine line between the Nocks' or Ed's comments "Yeah, I've got that part." or "We always use Redline." and words to the effect that your car will break in two if you don't replace the frame (with mine). I think Martin could say "I've never found frame repairs to work well. That's why I build new frames." That leaves room for further discussion among those whose experience with frame repairs is different. For any further discussion on this topic with me, please email me directly. Now, please, back to Positive Crankcase Ventilation and front suspension repairs. -Roland On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:59:25 -0400, Skip wrote: :: Really!..one sentence in the middle of ::Martin's response and Gary raises concerns???? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obamas Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c6d59bbd75e97b262ast01duc From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 10:52:57 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:52:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1196098433.74089.1282236777154.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Starter solenoid. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't kick on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key again. The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the ignition switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? Thanks. Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 11:21:23 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:21:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 3 Message-ID: How do I interpret the results? Just like golf a low score wins. In a perfect world all voltage drop reading would be zero, indicating no resistance in the circuit, but guess what we dont live in that perfect world. You will always get some type of reading. The object is getting the number as low as possible. Lets say you get a reading of 1 Volt. That means if you put 11 Volts into the cable at the battery (this is the voltage of a very healthy 12V battery while cranking) you will get 10 Volts out the other end as 1 Volts is being lost to resistance If I got less than 1 Volt drop between the battery and the starter I would probably be happy (particularly if you consider the length of that one cable). But for the sake of conversation lets say I get a reading of 3 Volts. This means that if I put 11 Volts into the cable I am only getting 8 Volts out the other end. This is staring to get real marginal and might leave me stranded. At this point I want to pin point the exact cause of the resistance. How to isolate the problem: Test the circuit in sections. In our LBC starter scenario you could test Battery post to battery cable clamp (a might hard with the OE cap style battery cable end I admit) Battery end of the cable to solenoid end of cable Across the solenoid itself Cable from solenoid to stud sticking out of the starter. Dont forget that current must be flowing for each and every test. That means in this case you have to crank the car. Lets say after all of these tests I find high voltage drops at the following points Battery post to cable end Across solenoid Solenoid to starter motor stud. At this point I would pull the connections apart, clean them with steel wool, apply dielectric grease and reassemble. When I was all done, I would retest. If the voltage drop was now acceptable I am done. If say the drop across the solenoid was excessive I would hit the catalog up for a new solenoid. The trick here is to isolate the circuit into sections and test/ repair/ retest/ move to next problem until you have the voltage drop under control. More follows From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 11:22:51 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:22:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 Message-ID: At last the end of the voltage drops and how to find the problem (if it is electrical) with the OD One last thing about Voltage drops Dont forget two things: 1. You have to energize the circuit to get a proper reading. 2. Dont forget the problem could be on the ground side of the circuit. You have to test both sides. Great now how do I fix my $#^&**%$# over drive? Based on the comment about flicking the switch several times to get the OD to operate, I am thinking there are some world class voltage drops in this circuit. If you dont have enough voltage, the solenoid wont function. If it were me I would test in the following order 1. Battery to switch hot lead (again, circuit has to be energized, that is key on, trans in 3 or 4, OD switch on 2. Across switch (should be damn near zero) 3. Switch to OD solenoid. I suspect that the OD switch has a BIG voltage drop. But any and all Lucar connectors in the harness are suspect. If you find a problem at a Lucar connector, you can 1. Pull connector apart 2. Clean bullet ends with steel wool 3. Clean inside of connector with a small wire bottle brush ( or go crazy and replace them) 4. Apply dielectric tune up grease to the connector 5. Reassemble Hope this helps Rick From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Aug 19 11:55:35 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:55:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04D8CF58-7E29-4EC5-AFC6-DBEBCBDE6C82@cox.net> Crap, I forgot that the buy it now price could go away... I was going to buy it this morning if it was still there. Bidding will no doubt take it over that 750.00 price tag yesterday. oh well, Wilko From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 11:59:57 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 13:59:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <20100819.121831.24020.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com> References: <20100819.121831.24020.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: I always try to fix everything myself, even when I don't know what I'm doing. I thought that this was a good education on when not to fix. Bob Johnson BJ8 From javrugtman at htcnet.org Thu Aug 19 12:04:23 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:04:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: <1196098433.74089.1282236777154.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1196098433.74089.1282236777154.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C6D7227.7010004@htcnet.org> Applying Richards' electrical lessons to the current problem, one can deduce that the large current carrying connections and cables are OK, as manual operation of the solenoid worked fine. Then it follows that the circuit to energies the solenoid, or the solenoid itself is faulty. What happens a lot in old wiring harnesses is the connections develop high resistance to high current, but can check out with an ohmmeter. A quick way to find the problem is to hold the key to start and tap or move the various components and wires, the one that activates the starter even a little is the likely culprit. John 64/66 BJ8 74 Commando On 8/19/2010 12:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Starter solenoid. > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't kick > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key again. > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the ignition > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > Thanks. > Rich Kahn From raymead at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 12:35:45 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:35:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <04D8CF58-7E29-4EC5-AFC6-DBEBCBDE6C82@cox.net> Message-ID: <928989626.242828.1282242945454.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> email the guy and see if he will still honor the BUY IT NOW - doesn't hurt to ask! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 1:55:35 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion Crap, I forgot that the buy it now price could go away... I was going to buy it this morning if it was still there. Bidding will B no doubt take it over that 750.00 price tag yesterday. oh well, Wilko _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 13:04:05 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 12:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick, That's a fantastic writeup. It should be preserved online somewhere. I'd like to add something to what you wrote. I just acquired a TR8 and it also has the battery in back with the really long battery cable. The issue in this case was that the battery wasn't holding a charge. In doing all the testing, every component came out in a passable state when the car was cold. But the battery was still running flat. I finally was so frustrated that I opted to do the testing while the car was still hot (to reach the starter you have you shove your arm through the middle of the exhaust manifold, not fun when the car is hot). What I found was that while everything was passable when the car was cold, when the car heated up the heat based resistivity in the wire was enough to tip the scales and cause the circuit to fail. So, with the hot tests I very rapidly found my bad wiring (happened to be from alternator to starter), and was able to replace it. So, if everything looks kosher when the car's cold, and you still have issues, try a secondary diagnostic when the car's hot. Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 14:45:32 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 13:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, for your kind words. If someone wants to put it up, they can drop me a line. Yes heat can for sure cause resistance to increase. If you symptom is a failure hot then the tests need to be done hot. One suggestion for something like the starter on your car where it is located in the middle of hotsville. Run a jumper lead out to where you can reach it while the car is still cold. Then warm up the car. (but I bet you already figured that out, right?) Rick On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Jody Kerr wrote: > Rick, > > That's a fantastic writeup. It should be preserved online somewhere. From alexmm at roadrunner.com Thu Aug 19 16:01:01 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:01:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 References: Message-ID: <4E613C92AC7A49FDA54A95729F52B076@atc0f226cd3237> Hey folks, be sure to check my article here as well: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Thu Aug 19 16:02:57 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:02:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 Message-ID: <94007.16459.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Gary, At no time did I use this response to sell our product.I used our product as an example that the original failures of the chassis can be fully corrected. My thorough knowledge of the car has allowed me to correct the these failures,and build a safer, better quality, car. Also, I am familiar with the replacement chassis and the chassis repairs that replicate the original chassis, however, these "solutions" do not fix the original structural failures because they use the same design. I would like to refer to a statement made by a structural and metallurgical engineer, "When failures reoccur at a high rate in the same areas (i.e. compression buckling of main chassis rails, cracking at engine mounts, front shrouds ripping away, scuttle shake, and lack of torsional rigidity), they are considered to be design errors." Additionally, I suggest you read the article by Donald Healey about the importance of torsional and chassis rigidity http://www.jule-enterprises.com/id59.html. It is unfortunate that you do not understand the technical facts that I have stated in the response and instead chosen to say that I am advertising and attack my company. I build these cars for a living and I am fully aware of the failures of the chassis. My years of experience and trade skills support any statements I made. As well as, the longevity of our chassis demonstrates my knowledge of the Austin Healey. I choose to state facts while you state opinions. So until you can have the technical background please do not claim your opinions as facts. Furthermore, Healey owners should have the right to chose the best option for them, and their cars and they should choose it based on technical facts. Enclosing, laws about disclosing repaired and patched chassis have been put into place because these chassis have killed people. Healey owner safety is our first concern at Jule Enterprises as it should be at all restoration shops. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 19 16:08:40 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:08:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure Message-ID: <000601cb3feb$152a4fb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Resent email----- > This is one of the many finicky areas of our LBCs. Let me share my > findings. > > Trany tunnel off, > new solenoid, new harness, all components working as needed, adjustment > on the side of trany done > as per manual. Go for test drive with tunnel cover off and test > everything. No OD operation. > Go back to man cave and readjust operating valve on side. Now getting > intermittent OD. Back to man > cave and readjust again. Now getting OD. > > My problem was the touchy , mind blowing , stress testing, adjustment of > the operating valve. > Over time the operating parts start to wear and we need to over compensate > in this adjustment. > If you are sure all else is working right then this is where I would look. > > The solenoid can be tested here too by turning on the key , flip the dash > switch ON and move the shifter into third or forth. > The solenoid should click on and be at its highest level. > Also at the same time when you turn off the dash switch the solenoid > should kick out AFTER the > the gas pedal is pushed down so far. Don't leave the ignition switch on > too long. > > Good Luck, when you get this going you have passed the Healey patience > and life time stress test. > > Mark > > >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From fredwescoe at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 16:55:32 2010 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:55:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knockoffs for sale Message-ID: List, I have 2 right hand, 12tpi, 2 eared knock offs, Moss part # 674-670 and 2 left hand, 12 tpi, 2 eared knock offs, Moss part # 674-680 for sale to the list before I Ebay them. If anyone is interested in buying these at less than the listed price, make me an offer off list. Thanks, Fred 63 BJ7 From tstreeter at twcny.rr.com Thu Aug 19 17:07:03 2010 From: tstreeter at twcny.rr.com (tstreeter at twcny.rr.com) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:07:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator Message-ID: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> I have a 1966 BJ8 Mark 3....my question is on the top tank of the radiator - underneath it ..there is a threaded cap. Does anybody know what this is used for? I am getting ready to have the radiator cleaned and need to know if it can be removed. Thank You..any and all information would be greatly appreciated Todd From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Aug 19 17:12:49 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E0498DC3D2749F38773A3BD8A4D20ED@LeonardPCPC> Rich: Based upon similar condition, I recommend cleaning the battery posts and cable ends and reinstalling making sure there is a clean and tight connection. Worked for me. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Won't start >I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't >kick > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key > again. > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the > ignition > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > Thanks. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 17:37:02 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 07:37:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard - Again, you need to be disconnecting and reconnecting all terminals in the circuit, and confirming your ground wires are properly grounded... as explained previously. Start with the big brown wires coming out of the control box and the white wires coming in and out of the starter switch. Familiarize yourself with the wiring diagram. Alan On 8/19/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't > kick > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key > again. > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the ignition > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > Thanks. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Aug 19 18:22:15 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:22:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator In-Reply-To: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> References: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> Message-ID: <008801cb3ffd$be1b0a30$3a511e90$@verizon.net> Sounds to me as if it is a cap for the hole in which an old style temp gauge sensor fits into. On my BN6 my temp gauge sensor fits into a whole as you describe. This ws change in later models. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tstreeter at twcny.rr.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 7:07 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator I have a 1966 BJ8 Mark 3....my question is on the top tank of the radiator - underneath it ..there is a threaded cap. Does anybody know what this is used for? I am getting ready to have the radiator cleaned and need to know if it can be removed. Thank You..any and all information would be greatly appreciated Todd _______________________________________________ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 19 19:12:47 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:12:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know References: <94007.16459.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001201cb4004$cd8121b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Sorry, not to change the subject but this caught my attention. Martin, that is the first time that I have heard that a patched chassis killed someone. Not to sound morbid but was this a personal acquaintance or some one that knew some one etc? What was the actual cause and how was this proven? This is a serious question because I was actually border line on going with a new chassis but chose to do new rockers, outriggers,scuttle reinforcement, and floors on my old frame. It was all squared up at the end but still has much of the old frame still intact. Any areas that I should pay attention to or be a ware of. Thanks, Mark > Enclosing, laws about disclosing repaired and patched chassis have been > put > into > place because these chassis have killed people. Healey owner safety is our > first concern at Jule Enterprises as it should be at all restoration > shops. > > Happy Healeying, > > Marty > www.jule-enterprises.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 19:20:10 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:20:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator In-Reply-To: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> References: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> Message-ID: <4C6DD84A.9080807@comcast.net> Should be a plug in it (might have been used for a temp sensor on different cars). If it's not leaking I'd leave it in. bs tstreeter at twcny.rr.com wrote: > I have a 1966 BJ8 Mark 3....my question is on the top tank of the radiator - underneath > it ..there is a threaded cap. Does anybody know what this is used for? I am getting ready > to have the radiator cleaned and need to know if it can be removed. > > Thank You..any and all information would be greatly appreciated > > Todd > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Aug 19 20:10:46 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 02:10:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "At this point I would pull the connections apart, clean them with steel wool, apply dielectric grease and reassemble" HI Rich, I really want to thank you for your expertise and help in this area of black magic. But, I always thought that dielectric grease went on after assembly, to prevent moisture from getting into and corroding the contacts. If you put it on first - would you have any contact at all?. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:21:23 -0700 > From: richard.ewald at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 3 > > How do I interpret the results? > Just like golf a low score wins. In a perfect world all voltage drop > reading would be zero, indicating no resistance in the circuit, but > guess what we dont live in that perfect world. You will always get > some type of reading. The object is getting the number as low as > possible. > Lets say you get a reading of 1 Volt. That means if you put 11 Volts > into the cable at the battery (this is the voltage of a very healthy > 12V battery while cranking) you will get 10 Volts out the other end as > 1 Volts is being lost to resistance > If I got less than 1 Volt drop between the battery and the starter I > would probably be happy (particularly if you consider the length of > that one cable). But for the sake of conversation lets say I get a > reading of 3 Volts. This means that if I put 11 Volts into the cable > I am only getting 8 Volts out the other end. This is staring to get > real marginal and might leave me stranded. At this point I want to > pin point the exact cause of the resistance. > > How to isolate the problem: > Test the circuit in sections. In our LBC starter scenario you could test > Battery post to battery cable clamp (a might hard with the OE cap > style battery cable end I admit) > Battery end of the cable to solenoid end of cable > Across the solenoid itself > Cable from solenoid to stud sticking out of the starter. > Dont forget that current must be flowing for each and every test. > That means in this case you have to crank the car. > Lets say after all of these tests I find high voltage drops at the > following points > Battery post to cable end > Across solenoid > Solenoid to starter motor stud. >. When I was all > done, I would retest. If the voltage drop was now acceptable I am > done. If say the drop across the solenoid was excessive I would hit > the catalog up for a new solenoid. > The trick here is to isolate the circuit into sections and test/ > repair/ retest/ move to next problem until you have the voltage drop > under control. > More follows > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 20:27:10 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <001201cb4004$cd8121b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <94007.16459.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <001201cb4004$cd8121b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I am currently rebuilding a 1954 Nash Healey. the car looked like it was set in salt water up to the axles. we have replaced fenders, outriggers, rockers, floors and have strengthened the frame. I believe that we now have a body that is better than original and strong. ron rader 1965 BJ8 - sold! (to finish the NH) 1954 Nash healey FHC 1961 XK 150 FHC 1967 E type FHC etc On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 6:12 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > > This is a serious question because I was actually border line on going with a new chassis but chose to do new rockers, outriggers,scuttle reinforcement, and floors on my old frame. It was all squared up at the end but still has much of the old frame still intact. Any areas that I should pay attention to or be a ware of. > > Thanks, Mark From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Aug 19 20:37:26 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:37:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: <1E0498DC3D2749F38773A3BD8A4D20ED@LeonardPCPC> References: , <1E0498DC3D2749F38773A3BD8A4D20ED@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: I banged the solenoid with a small hammer as Norman Nock told me to do when that happened a few years ago. Bingo! It worked. Thanks for all the advice. I've printed them and will keep them in the boot for when I know it will happen again. I will also carry the new solenoid in the boot. Thanks for the help. Rich Kahn > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:12:49 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Won't start > > Rich: Based upon similar condition, I recommend cleaning the battery posts > and cable ends and reinstalling making sure there is a clean and tight > connection. Worked for me. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:54 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Won't start > > > >I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't > >kick > > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key > > again. > > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the > > ignition > > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > > Thanks. > > Rich Kahn > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 20:39:10 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> References: <24668.6bc71de3.399d4d29@aol.com> Message-ID: can't we just all get along?? ron On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 7:50 AM, wrote: > > In a message dated 8/17/10 10:55:11 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > Mark, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen these types of repairs > > come through my shop.They do not work. Patching a chassis is just > > irresponsible. From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Thu Aug 19 20:43:30 2010 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:43:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In-Reply-To: <12ccad.3c74ed82.399eb265@aol.com> References: <12ccad.3c74ed82.399eb265@aol.com> Message-ID: <005601cb4011$79dc1800$6d944800$@com> Good for you.. I've moved on too. And I enjoy your postings, your enthusiasm for the cars. and most of all.. I enjoy my car too.J Thanks -skip- PS. my point is this:. we love the cars. There is no reward for trashing any of the (far too few) people who help us with our hobby.. Martin is a good person. He helps us. He, and many others, have advice worth considering (we can each decide on whether or not to follow the advice) but it is all worth considering. Let's keep the forum open. Thanks -skip- BJ8, BJ7. From: Editorgary at aol.com [mailto:Editorgary at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 12:14 PM To: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 566 In a message dated 8/19/10 7:00:14 AM, tfsbj7 at mindspring.com writes: Shame on Gary. Whew. Pretty strong stuff. But it's only one sentence at the end of a long posting, so I guess I'll ignore it. Gary From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Thu Aug 19 21:17:20 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 20:17:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <001201cb4004$cd8121b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <861271.21233.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, Yes it is personal. when I was 20 years old I was involved in a serious car accident when the car I purchased with a welded chassis by someone I thought had skills. the welds broke apart which took me flying into a bush and I broke everything between my neck and hips. Fortunately there was no permanent spinal injury and I had young bones that healed. I was lucky. Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is written. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 21:35:58 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 11:35:58 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator In-Reply-To: <4C6DD84A.9080807@comcast.net> References: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> <4C6DD84A.9080807@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes, I think this is normal. These are quite useful if you add a supplementary fan for AC or cooling. Alan On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 9:20 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Should be a plug in it (might have been used for a temp sensor on different > cars). If it's not leaking I'd leave it in. > > > bs > > > > tstreeter at twcny.rr.com wrote: > >> I have a 1966 BJ8 Mark 3....my question is on the top tank of the radiator >> - underneath >> it ..there is a threaded cap. Does anybody know what this is used for? I >> am getting ready >> to have the radiator cleaned and need to know if it can be removed. >> >> Thank You..any and all information would be greatly appreciated >> >> Todd >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 19 22:14:21 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:14:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: References: <1E0498DC3D2749F38773A3BD8A4D20ED@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: Richard - Next time rather than pestering us with these questions, you should refer to the British Special Tools guide, it is far more efficient: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html Glad to hear you got it fixed! Alan On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I banged the solenoid with a small hammer as Norman Nock told me to do when > that happened a few years ago. Bingo! It worked. Thanks for all the advice. > I've printed them and will keep them in the boot for when I know it will > happen again. I will also carry the new solenoid in the boot. > Thanks for the help. > Rich Kahn > > > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:12:49 -0700 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Won't start > > > > Rich: Based upon similar condition, I recommend cleaning the battery > posts > > and cable ends and reinstalling making sure there is a clean and tight > > connection. Worked for me. > > > > (The Other) Len > > Vacaville, CA, USA > > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Richard Kahn" > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:54 AM > > Subject: [Healeys] Won't start > > > > > > >I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but > didn't > > >kick > > > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key > > > again. > > > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the > > > ignition > > > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > > > Thanks. > > > Rich Kahn > > > _______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 19 22:23:59 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 21:23:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <861271.21233.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <861271.21233.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C6E035F.4000505@comcast.net> Martin, Please elaborate on any catastrophic failures you've encountered in Healey chassis (real or potential). Thanks, Bob Martin Jansen wrote: > Mark, Yes it is personal. when I was 20 years old I was involved in a serious > car accident when the car I purchased with a welded chassis by someone I > thought had skills. the welds broke apart which took me flying into a bush and > I broke everything between my neck and hips. Fortunately there was no > permanent spinal injury and I had young bones that healed. I was lucky. > Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a > safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is written. > > > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 19 22:47:10 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 23:47:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator In-Reply-To: References: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> <4C6DD84A.9080807@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C6E08CE.4000309@justbrits.com> << Yes, I think this is normal. These are quite useful if you add a supplementary fan for AC or cooling. >> Agreed, Alan BUT [you just had to know there was one coming, right ?? - LOL] in the meantime, I TOTALLY agreed with Bob S. ............ <> because it 'could' be a true Pandora's Box and some part of Murphy's Law would just have to rear an ugly head !! Ed From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 19 22:58:32 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 00:58:32 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames be promoted on the Healey List? Message-ID: In a message dated 8/19/10 7:03:46 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > At no time did I use this response to sell our product.I used our product > as > an example that the original failures of the chassis can be fully > corrected. > My thorough knowledge of the car has allowed me to correct the these > failures,and build a safer, better quality, car. > > Also, I am familiar with the replacement chassis and the chassis repairs > that > replicate the original chassis, however, these "solutions" do not fix the > original > structural failures because they use the same design > Too bad that Martin is continuing to pursue this thread of elaborating on why he believes that he has created a superior product to anything Donald Healey ever built, and therefore as soon as a Healey-designed chassis fails, it should therefore be replaced by the intrinsically superior Jule Product. Let me stipulate right here, that the Jule chassis may very well be a better chassis that the one which came on the Healeys, in terms of its structural rigidity, metallic properties, and design. I would also stipulate that any Nissan five-speed transmission is inherently better than the original four-speed plus overdrive transmission with which our Healeys were originally equipped. Would I therefore conclude that as soon as my Healey transmission shows signs of failure I should yank it out and replace it with a Nissan transmission? No. If I wanted to drive a Miata for weekend fun, I'd buy a Miata. I choose to drive a restored Austin-Healey 3000 in order to experience what that felt like when they were new. Is it as safe as a Miata? Huh-uh. But I'll deal with the trade-off. Other opinions certainly vary on how far to improve a Healey when restoring it. I respect that -- it's your money, and your life, and you can do with it in whatever way makes you happy. But that still doesn't justify using this forum to argue that a good repair, or an original spec replacement frame, are inherently less desirable than the product that is being promoted here. This list is not a place where vendors should be pushing the qualities of their products -- That's what paid advertising is for, and booths at Healey meets, and word-of-mouth, and the other means of advertising. I do apologize to anyone who is offended by an argument in this venue, but I believe the principle is important, and this forum should be defended. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 19 23:26:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 07:26:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] austin healey radiator In-Reply-To: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> References: <20100819230703.K8R7J.176992.root@cdptpa-web12-z02> Message-ID: <4C6E121D.5070607@chello.nl> Probably meant for an aether capsule from a temperature gauge (alternative location?) or perhaps some PO had a temperature switch fitted for a radiator fan. Kees Oudesluijs NL tstreeter at twcny.rr.com wrote: > I have a 1966 BJ8 Mark 3....my question is on the top tank of the radiator - underneath > it ..there is a threaded cap. Does anybody know what this is used for? I am getting ready > to have the radiator cleaned and need to know if it can be removed. > > Thank You..any and all information would be greatly appreciated > > Todd > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3081 - datum van uitgifte: 08/19/10 08:35:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 00:08:51 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:08:51 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <4C6E035F.4000505@comcast.net> References: <861271.21233.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C6E035F.4000505@comcast.net> Message-ID: I nearly had my BJ8 chassis collapse on me when I hit a very severe dip in the road which created a crack on the rail just behind the shock tower. I didn't see any damage at that moment and proceeded to drive the car for several months. I started to notice a squeak in the car every time I pushed it through a turn or hit a bump. For whatever reason I ignored it and, putting a new set of tires on that car, took it in to have the toe-in adjusted. The alignment guy called me back a couple hours later and told me to come down and have a look. Lo and behold the little crack had almost worked it's way around with only one flat side of the box beam maintaining structural integrity! Another month or two and the BJ8 would have been a divot digger on the highway. It was welded up and has been fine since, The guy was a good welder. Alan On 8/20/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Martin, > > Please elaborate on any catastrophic failures you've encountered in > Healey chassis (real or potential). > > Thanks, > Bob > > > > Martin Jansen wrote: >> Mark, Yes it is personal. when I was 20 years old I was involved in a >> serious >> car accident when the car I purchased with a welded chassis by someone I >> thought had skills. the welds broke apart which took me flying into a bush >> and >> I broke everything between my neck and hips. Fortunately there was no >> permanent spinal injury and I had young bones that healed. I was lucky. >> Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a >> safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is >> written. >> >> >> Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 01:31:44 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 09:31:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trafalgar Washer Bottles - Update Message-ID: I got an update from Mike who is having 50 Trafalgar bottles made. He got the batch from China and he's not happy with the glass or the etching on the lids. He\'s told me that maybe about 10 of the bottles are acceptable and that he has found an engraver in Wales who will do a mutch better job on the tops. Not sure when these will be available but I'll keep you posted for those who are still interested in acquiring one. He has purchased a second early Longbridge 100-Six in pretty complete unrestored form which is currently on a ship heading for Scott-Nelson's restoration shop in the UK. I have asked him to take detailed photos of the car before and during dismantling. Derek From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 01:34:21 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 00:34:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames be promoted on the Healey List? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With all due respect to All of the opinions I for one think that it is time to put it to rest. Enough has been said. Please move on or take it off line. Thanks Ron On Thursday, August 19, 2010, wrote: > In a message dated 8/19/10 7:03:46 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> At no time did I use this response to sell our product.I used our product >> as >> an example that the original failures of the chassis can be fully >> corrected. >> My thorough knowledge of the car has allowed me to correct the these >> failures,and build a safer, better quality, car. >> >> Also, I am familiar with the replacement chassis and the chassis repairs >> that >> replicate the original chassis, however, these "solutions" do not fix the >> original >> structural failures because they use the same design >> > > Too bad that Martin is continuing to pursue this thread of elaborating on > why he believes that he has created a superior product to anything Donald > Healey ever built, and therefore as soon as a Healey-designed chassis fails, it > should therefore be replaced by the intrinsically superior Jule Product. > > Let me stipulate right here, that the Jule chassis may very well be a > better chassis that the one which came on the Healeys, in terms of its structural > rigidity, metallic properties, and design. > > I would also stipulate that any Nissan five-speed transmission is > inherently better than the original four-speed plus overdrive transmission with which > our Healeys were originally equipped. > > Would I therefore conclude that as soon as my Healey transmission shows > signs of failure I should yank it out and replace it with a Nissan > transmission? > > No. If I wanted to drive a Miata for weekend fun, I'd buy a Miata. I choose > to drive a restored Austin-Healey 3000 in order to experience what that > felt like when they were new. Is it as safe as a Miata? Huh-uh. But I'll deal > with the trade-off. > > Other opinions certainly vary on how far to improve a Healey when restoring > it. I respect that -- it's your money, and your life, and you can do with > it in whatever way makes you happy. But that still doesn't justify using this > forum to argue that a good repair, or an original spec replacement frame, > are inherently less desirable than the product that is being promoted here. > > This list is not a place where vendors should be pushing the qualities of > their products -- That's what paid advertising is for, and booths at Healey > meets, and word-of-mouth, and the other means of advertising. > > I do apologize to anyone who is offended by an argument in this venue, but > I believe the principle is important, and this forum should be defended. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Fri Aug 20 04:54:40 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 20 Aug 2010 12:54:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Digest_N0=2E4=2C____Enquiring_minds_want_to_k?= =?utf-8?q?now?= Message-ID: So why is driving in a car still allowed after thousands have died in traffic? You can do what you want safety-wise, there will always be victims of traffic. Eric .... Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is written. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 20 06:08:03 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:08:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 3 In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I "think" that as long as you have a "tight" electrical connection you are alright to put it on first. I've used it on battery connections primarily ( before reconnection ) and all was good. http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm Robert > From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > "At this point I would pull the connections apart, clean them with steel wool, > apply dielectric grease and reassemble" > > > HI Rich, > I really want to thank you for your expertise and help in this area of black > magic. But, I always thought that dielectric grease went on after assembly, to > prevent moisture from getting into and corroding the contacts. If you put it > on first - would you have any contact at all?. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon From alexmm at roadrunner.com Fri Aug 20 07:02:07 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 09:02:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! References: Message-ID: Avoid steel wool like the plague around anything electrical or electronic. Steel wool will release nearly microscopic particles that can create shorts and unwanted electrical paths. I learned this the hard way years ago. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From fredwescoe at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 07:08:41 2010 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 09:08:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock offs for sale Message-ID: List, Yesterday I posted knock offs for sale before going to EBay and gave some incorrect/incomplete information. This is the correct information. I am looking at the original package (I wasn't yesterday). These knocks are brand new, never installed and in the original packing. I have 2 knock offs with Moss part number 674-670, 8 TPI, 2 eared, Right Hand and 2 knock offs with Moss part number 674-680, 8 TPI, 2 eared, Left Hand. I will take a picture for serious inquires if needed. The Moss list is $39.95 for each. All I want is a decent price plus shipping. Sorry for all the confusion and thanks to all who replied and asked for the additional info. Fred 63 BJ7 From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 07:31:05 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 06:31:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Damage/Failures -- was: Re: Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: References: <861271.21233.qm@web53005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4C6E035F.4000505@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C6E8399.40006@comcast.net> I'll add my own. My BJ8's front left wheel had been crunched by a PO, probably by a curb or parking stop. I'd always known that the the A-arm brackets were bent back a little, but saw no other damage and it drove fine. I was underneath the other day and happened to notice that the welds on the inside (engine side) of the rear bracket were slightly torn towards the bottom of the bracket. The adjoining chassis metal was also torn and I saw one small crack. At first I thought that the fairly recent addition of a larger sway bar had exacerbated the original damage, but when I looked closely the injury looked to be older (but it's sill possible the larger sway bar contributed). I re-welded the bracket to the frame. It looks to be a good repair, but I'll keep my eye on it. In addition, I've had to weld up cracks on the shock tower mounts--these are fairly common from what I hear. These accounts suggest we should get under our cars--preferably on a rack--and inspect the chassis closely. That's why I started this thread--to hear what other owners have encountered so we know where to look. So far: - shock tower mounts - A-arm brackets - chassis rail behind shock tower (but could be anywhere) bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > I nearly had my BJ8 chassis collapse on me when I hit a very severe > dip in the road which created a crack on the rail just behind the > shock tower... > It was welded up and has been fine since, The guy was a good welder. > > Alan > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 07:59:42 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 06:59:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <984852.26073.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good for stuffing in your muffler right before vehicle inspection, though! Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 8/20/10, Alex wrote: From: Alex Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! To: "richard mayor" , richard.ewald at gmail.com, "healeys" Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 9:02 AM Avoid steel wool like the plague around anything electrical or electronic. Steel wool will release nearly microscopic particles that can create shorts and unwanted electrical paths. I learned this the hard way years ago. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Aug 20 08:03:14 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:03:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00d701cb4070$6ee11270$4ca33750$@verizon.net> Rick has been kind enough to allow me to post it on my site. Will get it on hopefully in Saturday morning's update. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 4:46 PM To: Jody Kerr Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] voltage drop was intermittent OD part 4 Thanks, for your kind words. If someone wants to put it up, they can drop me a line. Yes heat can for sure cause resistance to increase. If you symptom is a failure hot then the tests need to be done hot. One suggestion for something like the starter on your car where it is located in the middle of hotsville. Run a jumper lead out to where you can reach it while the car is still cold. Then warm up the car. (but I bet you already figured that out, right?) Rick On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Jody Kerr wrote: > Rick, > > That's a fantastic writeup. It should be preserved online somewhere. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Aug 20 08:13:26 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:13:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100820101326.YX4MR.171813.root@pamxwww06-z01> About 13 years ago I detoured through some traffic cones (they wern't placed properly) and ran right over an open trench in the road. fortunately the trench wasn't wider. The mounts for the dampers pealed up ( weld broke) but no other frame damage. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= I nearly had my BJ8 chassis collapse on me when I hit a very severe dip in the road which created a crack on the rail just behind the shock tower. I didn't see any damage at that moment and proceeded to drive the car for several months. I started to notice a squeak in the car every time I pushed it through a turn or hit a bump. For whatever reason I ignored it and, putting a new set of tires on that car, took it in to have the toe-in adjusted. The alignment guy called me back a couple hours later and told me to come down and have a look. Lo and behold the little crack had almost worked it's way around with only one flat side of the box beam maintaining structural integrity! Another month or two and the BJ8 would have been a divot digger on the highway. It was welded up and has been fine since, The guy was a good welder. Alan On 8/20/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Martin, > > Please elaborate on any catastrophic failures you've encountered in > Healey chassis (real or potential). > > Thanks, > Bob > > > > Martin Jansen wrote: >> Mark, Yes it is personal. when I was 20 years old I was involved in a >> serious >> car accident when the car I purchased with a welded chassis by someone I >> thought had skills. the welds broke apart which took me flying into a bush >> and >> I broke everything between my neck and hips. Fortunately there was no >> permanent spinal injury and I had young bones that healed. I was lucky. >> Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a >> safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is >> written. >> >> >> Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 20 08:16:46 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:16:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: The last thing you want is shorts made of steel wool ... Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > From: alexmm at roadrunner.com > > Avoid steel wool like the plague around anything electrical or electronic. > > Steel wool will release nearly microscopic particles that can create shorts > and unwanted electrical paths. > > I learned this the hard way years ago. > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Aug 20 08:19:20 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:19:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Damage/Failures -- was: Re: Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <4C6E8399.40006@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100820101920.OSTLY.171936.root@pamxwww06-z01> I'm happy this discussion came up. Although i "feel" my frame is solid, I don't really know. I'll be doing an inspection. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= I'll add my own. My BJ8's front left wheel had been crunched by a PO, probably by a curb or parking stop. I'd always known that the the A-arm brackets were bent back a little, but saw no other damage and it drove fine. I was underneath the other day and happened to notice that the welds on the inside (engine side) of the rear bracket were slightly torn towards the bottom of the bracket. The adjoining chassis metal was also torn and I saw one small crack. At first I thought that the fairly recent addition of a larger sway bar had exacerbated the original damage, but when I looked closely the injury looked to be older (but it's sill possible the larger sway bar contributed). I re-welded the bracket to the frame. It looks to be a good repair, but I'll keep my eye on it. In addition, I've had to weld up cracks on the shock tower mounts--these are fairly common from what I hear. These accounts suggest we should get under our cars--preferably on a rack--and inspect the chassis closely. That's why I started this thread--to hear what other owners have encountered so we know where to look. So far: - shock tower mounts - A-arm brackets - chassis rail behind shock tower (but could be anywhere) bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > I nearly had my BJ8 chassis collapse on me when I hit a very severe > dip in the road which created a crack on the rail just behind the > shock tower... > It was welded up and has been fine since, The guy was a good welder. > > Alan > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 09:16:41 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 08:16:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's all about context. If we were discussing electronic circuit boards, I would agree with you that cleaning them with steel wool is probably a bad idea. But I was discussing Lucas bullet connectors. Nearly microscopic particles won't give you an electrical path to anywhere in this case. I also neglected to say that I would wipe any residue off before reassembly. But hey if it makes you feel better, use a scotch brite pad. Rick On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 6:02 AM, Alex wrote: > Avoid steel wool like the plague around anything electrical or electronic. > > Steel wool will release nearly microscopic particles that can create shorts > and unwanted electrical paths. > > I learned this the hard way years ago. > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3083 - Release Date: 08/20/10 > 02:35:00 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 09:17:31 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:17:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Damage/Failures -- was: Re: Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: <20100820101920.OSTLY.171936.root@pamxwww06-z01> References: <4C6E8399.40006@comcast.net> <20100820101920.OSTLY.171936.root@pamxwww06-z01> Message-ID: The mechanic that taught me most of what I know, Mike of John Bull Auto from Walnut Creek CA, he told me back in the late 80s that 6-cyl AHs have a tendency to crack the rail just behind the shock tower because of the weight of the motor and how the shock tower is welded to the rail. Worth a spot check once in a blue moon. On 8/20/10, Tom Felts wrote: > I'm happy this discussion came up. Although i "feel" my frame is solid, I > don't really know. I'll be doing an inspection. > > tom > > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > I'll add my own. My BJ8's front left wheel had been crunched by a PO, > probably by a curb or parking stop. I'd always known that the the A-arm > brackets were bent back a little, but saw no other damage and it drove fine. > > I was underneath the other day and happened to notice that the welds on > the inside (engine side) of the rear bracket were slightly torn towards > the bottom of the bracket. The adjoining chassis metal was also torn > and I saw one small crack. At first I thought that the fairly recent > addition of a larger sway bar had exacerbated the original damage, but > when I looked closely the injury looked to be older (but it's sill > possible the larger sway bar contributed). I re-welded the bracket to > the frame. It looks to be a good repair, but I'll keep my eye on it. > > In addition, I've had to weld up cracks on the shock tower mounts--these > are fairly common from what I hear. > > These accounts suggest we should get under our cars--preferably on a > rack--and inspect the chassis closely. That's why I started this > thread--to hear what other owners have encountered so we know where to look. > > So far: > > - shock tower mounts > - A-arm brackets > - chassis rail behind shock tower (but could be anywhere) > > > bs > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: >> I nearly had my BJ8 chassis collapse on me when I hit a very severe >> dip in the road which created a crack on the rail just behind the >> shock tower... >> It was welded up and has been fine since, The guy was a good welder. >> >> Alan >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > -- Sent from my mobile device From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Aug 20 09:22:35 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 08:22:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Won't start In-Reply-To: References: , <1E0498DC3D2749F38773A3BD8A4D20ED@LeonardPCPC>, , Message-ID: I know the sight but it is not size/weight specific. I needed more impute. LFH or BFH? Rich Kahn Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:14:21 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Won't start From: healey.nut at gmail.com To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com CC: thehartnetts at earthlink.net; healeys at autox.team.net Richard - Next time rather than pestering us with these questions, you should refer to the British Special Tools guide, it is far more efficient: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html Glad to hear you got it fixed! Alan On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: I banged the solenoid with a small hammer as Norman Nock told me to do when that happened a few years ago. Bingo! It worked. Thanks for all the advice. I've printed them and will keep them in the boot for when I know it will happen again. I will also carry the new solenoid in the boot. Thanks for the help. Rich Kahn > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:12:49 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Won't start > > Rich: Based upon similar condition, I recommend cleaning the battery posts > and cable ends and reinstalling making sure there is a clean and tight > connection. Worked for me. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:54 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Won't start > > > >I just went to start my BJ8 and it turned the engine over once but didn't > >kick > > on. Fuel pump is fine but I could not get it to turn over with the key > > again. > > The remote starter turned the engine over nicely. I'm guessing the > > ignition > > switch or wires from it have gone bad? Any other places to look? > > Thanks. > > Rich Kahn > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 09:28:39 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 08:28:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop dielectric grease part1 Message-ID: I wrote this in response to Richard Mayor's question, but got bit by the 3kb limit last night so I will break it up into 2 parts Assuming we are talking about a regular tin to tin connection and not gold or something else exotic, you would apply the grease before. Here is the reasoning: Tin is conductive, tin oxide is not conductive. When exposed to air, the surface of tin rapidly becomes tin oxide. A proper connection when connected will scrape the tin oxide off of both the male and female and leave direct tin to tin contact. There is a risk with tin connectors. if there are small movements due to heat or vibration the male and female connectors can move very slightly in relation to each other and a layer of tin oxide can then build up between the two parts of the connector. This can cause an apparent open circuit even though the connector is connected. (more to follow!) On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 5:08 AM, Robert Duquette wrote: > I "think" that as long as you have a "tight" electrical connection you are > alright to put it on first. I've used it on battery connections primarily ( > before reconnection ) and all was good. > http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm > > Robert From richard.ewald at gmail.com Fri Aug 20 09:30:56 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 08:30:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop dielectric grease part 2 Message-ID: Here is the rest of what I wrote last night Often just unplugging and replugging the connector can fix this problem temporarily. To prevent this from happening you can do three things: Move connectors to areas of low vibration / heat strap connectors so the parts cannot move in relation to each other Use dielectric grease to keep the oxygen out. On modern cars with water tight connectors the dielectric grease is applied before the connector is assembled otherwise there would be no way to get in there afterward. A good connector will scrape the dielectric grease and the tin oxide out of the way to ensure proper tin to tin contact. (Note to anyone working on a modern car, do not use dielectric grease on O2 sensor connections, it will poison the O2 sensor.) the concern here is not so much moisture as it is oxygen. A side benefit of dielectric grease is it will help moisture out also. Double win! I hope this answers your question. Rick From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 20 10:18:20 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:18:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ... because politicians use cars, too. Please don't give them any more ideas!! Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com > > So why is driving in a car still allowed after thousands have died in traffic? You can do what you want safety-wise, there will always be victims of traffic. > > Eric > > .... > Safety laws are only written after many people have died. I was told in a > safety course I took at least 100 people have to die before a law is written. > > > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 10:20:02 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 09:20:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames be promoted on the Healey List? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <320139.5679.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Commenting on Gary's key words about the forum, its purpose and value My comments, I personally appreciate the comments of vendors who build Healey products and provide techincal support - they keep the hobby and marque alive ! Their participation is essential. Yes I too am tired of some of the "shameless" promotions. Such is life. The promotions of those making new products and the contrast of those restoring old parts are equally valuable. For each repair I consider repairing or buying new. For some parts, there is no debate - one must buy new. Certainly there are frames that are beyond repair, so I cheer the guys making them and the subassemblies required for repair. Gary, I am not offended - I appreciate hearing both viewpoints. Adding an observation that classy adrvertisement is an art. Gary's key words that I am replying to: "This list is not a place where vendors should be pushing the qualities of their products -- That's what paid advertising is for, and booths at Healey meets, and word-of-mouth, and the other means of advertising. I do apologize to anyone who is offended by an argument in this venue, but I believe the principle is important, and this forum should be defended." Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 10:49:20 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 09:49:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure In-Reply-To: <000601cb3feb$152a4fb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <567899.33684.qm@web53003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, I have seen many types of OD failures, mostly adjustment related. The key is to measure valve lift and use that metric as final confirmation of adjustment. My service manual almost falls open to page G/6 (BN1 section) for these words "the ball should be lifted 1/32 in. (0.794 mm.) off its seat when the overdrive control is operated". I personally go for a little more lift, maybe 1/8 in. All the other adjustments are subject to error. For an illustration see Fig 6 "Operating Valve". Also make sure the solenoid plunger does not have more than 1/4 inch fall per figure 8. I use a brass screw inserted into the hold below the plunger to adjust fall. Some people use a nylon screw. I faintly recall that a 10-32 screw works well. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Thu, 8/19/10, Mark LaPierre wrote: From: Mark LaPierre Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Date: Thursday, August 19, 2010, 3:08 PM Resent email----- > This is one of the many finicky areas of our LBCs. Let me share my findings. > > Trany tunnel off, > new solenoid, new harness, all components working as needed, adjustment on the side of trany done > as per manual. Go for test drive with tunnel cover off and test everything. No OD operation. > Go back to man cave and readjust operating valve on side. Now getting intermittent OD. Back to man > cave and readjust again. Now getting OD. > > My problem was the touchy , mind blowing , stress testing, adjustment of the operating valve. > Over time the operating parts start to wear and we need to over compensate in this adjustment. > If you are sure all else is working right then this is where I would look. > > The solenoid can be tested here too by turning on the key , flip the dash switch ON and move the shifter into third or forth. > The solenoid should click on and be at its highest level. > Also at the same time when you turn off the dash switch the solenoid should kick out AFTER the > the gas pedal is pushed down so far. Don't leave the ignition switch on too long. > > Good Luck, when you get this going you have passed the Healey patience and life time stress test. > > Mark > > >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 11:01:40 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:01:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure In-Reply-To: <000601cb3feb$152a4fb0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <668188.28588.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> More comments on OD adjustment. To make sure the solenoid is fully up, slack off the 7/16 head (1/4 inch bolt) on the shaft. Then actuate the solenoid. Holding the other side of the valve actuating rod, turn off the solenoid and rotate the rod a little. Measure the valve actuation for the 1/32 in called for. Also intermittent failure can be caused by faulty "throttle Switch". So when diagnosing, just bypass that switch. On my wiring diagram I move W1 to C2 on the "Overdrive Relay" Hope some of this helps Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Thu, 8/19/10, Mark LaPierre wrote: From: Mark LaPierre Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD failiure To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Date: Thursday, August 19, 2010, 3:08 PM Resent email----- > This is one of the many finicky areas of our LBCs. Let me share my findings. > > Trany tunnel off, > new solenoid, new harness, all components working as needed, adjustment on the side of trany done > as per manual. Go for test drive with tunnel cover off and test everything. No OD operation. > Go back to man cave and readjust operating valve on side. Now getting intermittent OD. Back to man > cave and readjust again. Now getting OD. > > My problem was the touchy , mind blowing , stress testing, adjustment of the operating valve. > Over time the operating parts start to wear and we need to over compensate in this adjustment. > If you are sure all else is working right then this is where I would look. > > The solenoid can be tested here too by turning on the key , flip the dash switch ON and move the shifter into third or forth. > The solenoid should click on and be at its highest level. > Also at the same time when you turn off the dash switch the solenoid should kick out AFTER the > the gas pedal is pushed down so far. Don't leave the ignition switch on too long. > > Good Luck, when you get this going you have passed the Healey patience and life time stress test. > > Mark > > >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Aug 20 11:36:59 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:36:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames be promoted on the Healey List? In-Reply-To: <320139.5679.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <320139.5679.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Because all list postings go to hundreds of people, with a wide range of interests and computing capabilities, we ask that you try to follow these simple guidelines for companies on the Team.Net mailing lists. The main purpose of the Team.Net Mailing lists archives, and web pages are to discuss and share information about British cars or Auto-x, racing, and related people, events, parts sources, technical info, etc. Participation and contribution of related businesses and their employees in these discussions is quite welcome and valued. Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional mention external services, if a company wants to do business on the net, they should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. Many readers do not want to see commercial advertisements on the mailing lists, and will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". Republishing or using postings from a list or archive for commercial purposes without permission of the author(s) may be a violation of various copyrights, and is generally frowned upon. Most authors are happy to provide permission to have specific postings published as long as they are asked. Credit and Copyright Information There are several ways a company can easily provide and get valuable and useful services on the network, without adversely impacting or affecting operation the mailing lists. Some can be done from any E- mail system, while more advanced services require more advanced computer resources. Some examples: Send direct E-Mail to someone you think may be interested in your product or service. Maintain your own electronic distribution list (one-way) for mailings to interested parties. (Just like paper mail, only faster, and interactive). Create your own e-mail discussion list, on your own, or hired computer equipment, Offer electronic services, such as parts and pricing lists on a file server; or World Wide Web server, electronic ordering; or paid consulting via private E-Mail. The list can also be an excellent source for a company to get feedback about such things as parts quality, authenticity and other technical issues. Access on-line file servers with archives of past discussions, parts & technical information, graphics images, and more. From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Aug 20 12:03:23 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 11:03:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] voltage drop dielectric grease part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When I put in the wiring harness on my Bugeye during the restoration back in 1999, I used copper paste on all the bullet connectors. No failures yet, but time will tell. Normally it is used for anti-sieze, but I thought the copper would promote conductivity AND preclude moisture as it never hardens. Seems to have worked. Unless someone can give me a reason not to, I will be using it on my BN2 restoration harness connectors. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Here is the rest of what I wrote last night > > Often just unplugging and replugging the connector can fix this > problem temporarily. To prevent this from happening you can do three > things: > Move connectors to areas of low vibration / heat > strap connectors so the parts cannot move in relation to each other > Use dielectric grease to keep the oxygen out. > On modern cars with water tight connectors the dielectric grease is > applied before the connector is assembled otherwise there would be no > way to get in there afterward. A good connector will scrape the > dielectric grease and the tin oxide out of the way to ensure proper > tin to tin contact. (Note to anyone working on a modern car, do not > use dielectric grease on O2 sensor connections, it will poison the O2 > sensor.) > the concern here is not so much moisture as it is oxygen. A side > benefit of dielectric grease is it will help moisture out also. > Double win! > I hope this answers your question. > Rick > _______________________________________________ > > From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Aug 20 12:37:17 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 11:37:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames be promoted on the Healey List? In-Reply-To: References: <320139.5679.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Excuse me Rick, are you the moderator of this list. I thought Mark was. Everyone has the option to delete any mail from any contributor on this list or click on the Unsubscribe link at the bottom of the page. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 10:36 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > Because all list postings go to hundreds of people, with a wide range > of interests and computing capabilities, we ask that you try to follow > these simple guidelines for companies on the Team.Net mailing lists. > > The main purpose of the Team.Net Mailing lists archives, and web pages > are to discuss and share information about British cars or Auto-x, > racing, and related people, events, parts sources, technical info, etc. > Participation and contribution of related businesses and their > employees in these discussions is quite welcome and valued. > Beyond casual comments within ongoing discussions or occasional > mention external services, if a company wants to do business on the > net, they should not use these lists, but find other means to do so. > Many readers do not want to see commercial advertisements on the > mailing lists, and will react negativly to such "electronic junk mail". > Republishing or using postings from a list or archive for commercial > purposes without permission of the author(s) may be a violation of > various copyrights, and is generally frowned upon. Most authors are > happy to provide permission to have specific postings published as > long as they are asked. > Credit and Copyright Information > There are several ways a company can easily provide and get valuable > and useful services on the network, without adversely impacting or > affecting operation the mailing lists. Some can be done from any E- > mail system, while more advanced services require more advanced > computer resources. Some examples: > > Send direct E-Mail to someone you think may be interested in your > product or service. > Maintain your own electronic distribution list (one-way) for mailings > to interested parties. (Just like paper mail, only faster, and > interactive). > Create your own e-mail discussion list, on your own, or hired computer > equipment, > Offer electronic services, such as parts and pricing lists on a file > server; or World Wide Web server, electronic ordering; or paid > consulting via private E-Mail. > The list can also be an excellent source for a company to get feedback > about such things as parts quality, authenticity and other technical > issues. > Access on-line file servers with archives of past discussions, parts & > technical information, graphics images, and more. From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 20 13:18:24 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 19:18:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS Message-ID: ebay # 220654427516 BN1/219246 I like this car. I'm partial to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery tonight? Too much chrome for my liking though. The underside is unrepresented. Those acorn nuts holding down the head ??? There are screws holding down the engine ID tag. That reminds me that I have to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block ... I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. Robert DuquetteOttawa ON Canada1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Aug 20 14:04:55 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:04:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Le Mans Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We don't often see technical tips but here is one that perhaps only a few people are aware of. I am in the process of reconditioning my BN1 Le Mans engine and decided to keep the original pistons and just fit new rings. It is believed that these pistons were fitted when the car was quite young at the Donald Healey Motor Company. I had great difficulty finding replacement rings and had after much searching to give up and have the compression ring grooves widened. Most owners will know of Standard and so called Le Mans pistons with Hepolite Number 12572 (C.R. 7.5 to 1) and 12623 (C.R. 8.6 to 1) respectively. These have 3/32" wide compression rings. However mine are Hepolite 14296 with a stated C.R. of 8.1 to 1. These appear in catalogues up until the early 1960s but then disappear. The problem is that the compression rings fitted to these pistons are NARROWER at 0.070" wide. So if you have these early pistons and need to re-ring them, be warned. Regards -- John Harper From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 20 15:48:52 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:48:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C6EF844.4050106@justbrits.com> UGH and 'withdrawn' as Seller says sold locally ?!? << That reminds me that I have to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block ... >> Easy RD , Dremel Tool and CAREFULLY add a 'screw slot' to the head; screwdriver and 'UN-DO' remove. "If" that fails you, sharp, small flat scraper around edges until you have enough clearance to get a bite with small flat-blade screwdriver. Just keep going around the edge rotating screwdriver to make the thing un-screw itself. POC !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 20 16:00:42 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 22:00:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Le Mans Pistons In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1688670023.143823.1282341642272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> OK, now I'm confused. Have always read/heard/etc. that the high compression pistons fitted to 100Ms at the factory were 8.1:1 CR. Have never heard anything about 8.6:1 CR pistons coming from Austin or DMHMCo. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA We don't often see technical tips but here is one that perhaps only a few people are aware of. I am in the process of reconditioning my BN1 Le Mans engine and decided to keep the original pistons and just fit new rings. It is believed that these pistons were fitted when the car was quite young at the Donald Healey Motor Company. I had great difficulty finding replacement rings and had after much searching to give up and have the compression ring grooves widened. Most owners will know of Standard and so called Le Mans pistons with Hepolite Number 12572 (C.R. 7.5 to 1) and 12623 (C.R. 8.6 to 1) respectively. These have 3/32" wide compression rings. However mine are Hepolite 14296 with a stated C.R. of 8.1 to 1. These appear in catalogues up until the early 1960s but then disappear. The problem is that the compression rings fitted to these pistons are NARROWER at 0.070" wide. So if you have these early pistons and need to re-ring them, be warned. Regards -- John Harper From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 16:11:26 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:11:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I believe this car has a lot of non original items, color shemes not appropaite. lots of chrome.... It would be great if we point all the mistakes this car has in order to learn. Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Sent: Fri, August 20, 2010 2:18:24 PM Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS ebay # 220654427516 BN1/219246 I like this car. I'm partial to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery tonight? Too much chrome for my liking though. The underside is unrepresented. Those acorn nuts holding down the head ??? There are screws holding down the engine ID tag. That reminds me that I have to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block ... I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. Robert DuquetteOttawa ON Canada1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri Aug 20 17:26:30 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 16:26:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Should Jule Frames b... ARRRRGH!!!!! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <362604.70978.qm@web56104.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Please everyone, list to your mothers... Take everything with a greain of salt. Consider the source. Everything in mederation. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYukEAmoMCQ Are we done yet? Sorry, Got carried away... Greg 65BJ8 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 20 17:44:11 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 19:44:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steel wool! References: , , Message-ID: <001201cb40c1$977e1740$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> (((((((( Thanks Robert, I just spit cereal on my lap top. I guess I should know better than to be scarfing at the computer on Friday. Thanks for the Yuk, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Duquette" To: "Healeys" Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steel wool! > The last thing you want is shorts made of steel wool ... > > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > >> From: alexmm at roadrunner.com >> >> Avoid steel wool like the plague around anything electrical or >> electronic. >> >> Steel wool will release nearly microscopic particles that can create >> shorts >> and unwanted electrical paths. >> >> I learned this the hard way years ago. >> >> == Alex in Maine >> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >> 1965 MG Midget >> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 20 19:00:27 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:00:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5205ECEA74814FF6B1C68312692289C6@LIFEBOOK> Jose, and anybody else interested. We could do a private little review of what we see here (before it expires) but I don't think it's appropriate to send this to the whole list. It would probably over run our sizing anyway. Anybody interested, let me know by private email and we can go over what we can see. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS > I believe this car has a lot of non original items, color shemes not > appropaite. > lots of chrome.... > It would be great if we point all the mistakes > this car has in order to learn. > Josi Vicente Vargas > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Robert Duquette > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ > LEMANS OPTIONS > > ebay # 220654427516 > BN1/219246 > I like this car. I'm partial > to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery > tonight? > Too much chrome for my > liking though. > The underside is unrepresented. > Those acorn nuts holding down > the head ??? > There are screws holding down the engine ID tag. That reminds me > that I have > to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block > ... > I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. > Robert DuquetteOttawa ON From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 20 21:42:51 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 03:42:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: <5205ECEA74814FF6B1C68312692289C6@LIFEBOOK> References: , <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <5205ECEA74814FF6B1C68312692289C6@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Well, it's going to be big isn't it? The closer you look, the more you see. And, I'm sure you ( Rich ) will recognize alot more that you see than I will. Randy seems to have a lot of experience also ( with 2 100s ). I'm pretty green; I'm not too sure about Jose. At a wag, I could probably get 30 items together ... Depending on how you want to do this, I would like to participate; if only just to "listen". How did you want to do it, ... a picture at a time? Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com; robertduquette at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS > Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 21:00:27 -0400 > > Jose, and anybody else interested. > > We could do a private little review of what we see here (before it expires) > but I don't think it's appropriate to send this to the whole list. It would > probably over run our sizing anyway. Anybody interested, let me know by > private email and we can go over what we can see. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS > > > I believe this car has a lot of non original items, color shemes not > > appropaite. > > lots of chrome.... > > It would be great if we point all the mistakes > > this car has in order to learn. > > Josi Vicente Vargas > > Bogota, Colombia > > ________________________________ > > From: Robert Duquette > > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ > > LEMANS OPTIONS > > > > ebay # 220654427516 > > BN1/219246 > > I like this car. I'm partial > > to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery > > tonight? > > Too much chrome for my > > liking though. > > The underside is unrepresented. > > Those acorn nuts holding down > > the head ??? > > There are screws holding down the engine ID tag. That reminds me > > that I have > > to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block > > ... > > I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. > > Robert DuquetteOttawa ON From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 20 23:08:54 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 00:08:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: References: , <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <5205ECEA74814FF6B1C68312692289C6@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <4C6F5F66.2070801@justbrits.com> << How did you want to do it, ... a picture at a time? >> Just for GREAT GRINS, I could set-up a Mailing List which would work much the same as this one EXCEPT I would ALLOW pics !! You'al could "go thru the car" [including pics with added arrows if wanted] and after "**rating "level" is reached** report back to Healeys List. I could even set youse up to vote what the actual number of "Ooopsies" were found in case the is an argument !!! Just say the word and the new List would be up and running in 3 or 4 hours [or thereabouts ] !! Ed From pollpete at ix.netcom.com Sat Aug 21 00:28:55 2010 From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock) Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:28:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: <4C6F5F66.2070801@justbrits.com> References: , <470607.91927.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, <5205ECEA74814FF6B1C68312692289C6@LIFEBOOK> <4C6F5F66.2070801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C6F7227.9020005@ix.netcom.com> Ed, Mark B is a step ahead- he already has a web forum, picture friendly I believe: http://www.team.net/forums/ http://www.team.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=13&sid=50bc7b3281efc011890dc1ffbd33ba7b Pete Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << How did you want to do it, ... a picture at a time? >> > > Just for GREAT GRINS, I could set-up a Mailing List which would work > much the same as this one EXCEPT I would ALLOW pics !! > > You'al could "go thru the car" [including pics with added arrows > if wanted] and after "**rating "level" is reached** report back > to Healeys List. > > I could even set youse up to vote what the actual number of > "Ooopsies" were found in case the is an argument !!! > > Just say the word and the new List would be up and running in > 3 or 4 hours [or thereabouts ] !! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pollpete at ix.netcom.com > -- IMPORTANT - PLEASE NOTE The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this in error please contact the sender and destroy this message. From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sat Aug 21 01:26:25 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:26:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Le Mans Pistons In-Reply-To: <1688670023.143823.1282341642272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1688670023.143823.1282341642272.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob These compression ratio figures are those stated in the Hepolite piston catalogue and must make some assumption about the volume of the cylinder head. Perhaps the BMC/DHMCo made their own measurements or calculations and came out at a slightly different figure. Alternatively they could have switched to using 12623 at a later date and not bothered to change the publicity documentation? However using C.R. to define a piston is somewhat hit and miss and a safer way, other than using a part number, is the bowl depth measurement. This is the measurement from a line across the top of the piston to the centre of the bowl. For interest Hepolite bowl depth measurements are as follows 12572 0.562" 14296 0.499" (Measured) 12623 0.422" For what it is worth the bowl capacity of 14296 is measured at around 28 cc. Regards >OK, now I'm confused. > >Have always read/heard/etc. that the high compression pistons fitted to >100Ms at the factory were 8.1:1 CR. Have never heard anything about 8.6:1 >CR pistons coming from Austin or DMHMCo. > >bs > >-------------------------------- >Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > >We don't often see technical tips but here is one that perhaps only a >few people are aware of. > >I am in the process of reconditioning my BN1 Le Mans engine and decided >to keep the original pistons and just fit new rings. It is believed that >these pistons were fitted when the car was quite young at the Donald >Healey Motor Company. > >I had great difficulty finding replacement rings and had after much >searching to give up and have the compression ring grooves widened. > >Most owners will know of Standard and so called Le Mans pistons with >Hepolite Number 12572 (C.R. 7.5 to 1) and 12623 (C.R. 8.6 to 1) >respectively. These have 3/32" wide compression rings. > >However mine are Hepolite 14296 with a stated C.R. of 8.1 to 1. These >appear in catalogues up until the early 1960s but then disappear. > >The problem is that the compression rings fitted to these pistons are >NARROWER at 0.070" wide. > >So if you have these early pistons and need to re-ring them, be warned. > >Regards -- John Harper From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Aug 21 03:36:52 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:36:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey frames In-Reply-To: Message-ID: One of the things that I always miss with classic car market is comparisons of various products. Yes, I know that the market is minute, but still ideally it would be great if some independent professional body took all frames produced from various manufacturers (and for some reason there is a huge number of them) and compared them.. Unrealistic, unfortunately. But, for the fun of it (and for the fairness to all), could we list the frame manufacturers? 1. Kilmartin 2. AH Spares 3. Denis Welch 4. Jule Enterprises ... Anyone else??.. Tadek PS. BTW, I am not planning to buy one, already finished bodywork on my BN2.. -) From fietts02 at aol.com Sat Aug 21 06:39:21 2010 From: fietts02 at aol.com (fietts02 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:39:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS Message-ID: <5c33.ed34ed0.39a122f9@aol.com> Rich, count me in.. Ken In a message dated 8/20/2010 9:51:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, richchrysler at quickclic.net writes: Jose, and anybody else interested. We could do a private little review of what we see here (before it expires) but I don't think it's appropriate to send this to the whole list. It would probably over run our sizing anyway. Anybody interested, let me know by private email and we can go over what we can see. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS > I believe this car has a lot of non original items, color shemes not > appropaite. > lots of chrome.... > It would be great if we point all the mistakes > this car has in order to learn. > Josi Vicente Vargas > Bogota, Colombia > ________________________________ > From: Robert Duquette > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ > LEMANS OPTIONS > > ebay # 220654427516 > BN1/219246 > I like this car. I'm partial > to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery > tonight? > Too much chrome for my > liking though. > The underside is unrepresented. > Those acorn nuts holding down > the head ??? > There are screws holding down the engine ID tag. That reminds me > that I have > to figure out how to get those chopped off rivets out of my block > ... > I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. > Robert DuquetteOttawa ON _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fietts02 at aol.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Sat Aug 21 09:07:43 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:07:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Over Heating Update. Message-ID: <546503.85281.qm@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The results of my efforts to reduce the operating temperature of my AH MkII 3000 BN7 has proved positive that attacking the problem and not the symptomsb was a fruitful effort. B I'm not sure which of my efforts had the most effect on reducing the operating temperature from 212 degrees to 189 degrees at highway speeds exceeding 60 MPH but I would assume that the reverse flushing of the block may have had the greatest effect. B The following is a recap of what I did. B 1. I removed the recently re-cored radiator and had it professionally flushed at the local radiator repair shop.B His question to me was what grade of mud I was using for Antifreeze. B 2.B I removed the Water Pump and had it rebuilt.B The bearing was on its last few revs. B 3.B I removed and inspected the Distributor for wear and lubrication.B All parts were found to be in excellent condition.B Mechanical advance weights were good and pivots didn't show any evidence of wear. B 4.B With the Water pump and radiator out of the car and the petcock on the side of the block below the carbs open I inserted a water hose into the top of the head where the thermostat usually resides.B An estimated 20 minutesB was required toB obtain a flow of clear water.B I added 2 1/2B gallons of a 50/50 mixture of Distilled Water and Antifreeze.B Over the last few years I have tried various types of flushing agents, vinegar, CLR, Iron Out and Prestone Radiator Flush.B Each time I added the agents to the radiator and ran the engine for 15 to 20 minutes and drained the fluid from the lower Radiator petcock.B There wasn't any improvement using that method.B However there were enough residues of the caustics left in the engine block that continued to work over the years.B This may have contributed to clearing theB lower block of impacted contaminants.B B The amount of fluids that I was able to add to the radiator was alwaysB about 1 1/2 gallons.B B B B 5. The three carbs were tuned to the best of my ability and then I retimed the engine to the book spec of 6 degrees BTDC. B On the tripB from Michigan to Encounter in Blue Bell, PAB the temperature remained below 190 degree for the entire trip for the first time since I bought the car 15 years ago. B The return trip on a AAA Flat bed is a story for another day. B Ron Mitchell From edriver at sasktel.net Sat Aug 21 09:08:17 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 09:08:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey frames In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C6FEBE1.5060400@sasktel.net> Add Cape International to the list. Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > One of the things that I always miss with classic car market is comparisons > of various products. Yes, I know that the market is minute, but still > ideally it would be great if some independent professional body took all > frames produced from various manufacturers (and for some reason there is a > huge number of them) and compared them.. > > Unrealistic, unfortunately. > > But, for the fun of it (and for the fairness to all), could we list the > frame manufacturers? > 1. Kilmartin > 2. AH Spares > 3. Denis Welch > 4. Jule Enterprises > ... > Anyone else??.. > > Tadek > > PS. BTW, I am not planning to buy one, already finished bodywork on my BN2.. > -) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Aug 21 10:14:16 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 18:14:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey frames In-Reply-To: <4C6FEBE1.5060400@sasktel.net> References: <4C6FEBE1.5060400@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <974905D2-8175-4564-9615-36B440BA81B1@bornet.net> And add: Oldtimer Handels in Austria. There is supposed to be one In Holland as well but I don't know the name. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 21 aug 2010 kl. 17:08 skrev "E.A. Driver" : > Add Cape International to the list. > > Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: >> One of the things that I always miss with classic car market is comparisons >> of various products. Yes, I know that the market is minute, but still >> ideally it would be great if some independent professional body took all >> frames produced from various manufacturers (and for some reason there is a >> huge number of them) and compared them.. >> >> Unrealistic, unfortunately. >> >> But, for the fun of it (and for the fairness to all), could we list the >> frame manufacturers? >> 1. Kilmartin >> 2. AH Spares >> 3. Denis Welch >> 4. Jule Enterprises >> ... >> Anyone else??.. >> >> Tadek >> >> PS. BTW, I am not planning to buy one, already finished bodywork on my BN2.. >> -) >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson at bornet.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 21 11:00:49 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 10:00:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS In-Reply-To: <5c33.ed34ed0.39a122f9@aol.com> Message-ID: <580351.99114.qm@web56106.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Count me in as a watcher. Greg --- On Sat, 8/21/10, fietts02 at aol.com wrote: > From: fietts02 at aol.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS > To: richchrysler at quickclic.net, jvvmusme at yahoo.com, robertduquette at sympatico.ca, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 8:39 AM > Rich, count me in.. > > Ken > > > In a message dated 8/20/2010 9:51:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight > Time, > richchrysler at quickclic.net > writes: > > Jose, and anybody else interested. > > We could do a private little review of what we see > here (before it > expires) > but I don't think it's appropriate to send this to > the whole list. It > would > probably over run our sizing anyway. Anybody > interested, let me know by > private email and we can go over what we can > see. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Josi Vicente Vargas" > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS > OPTIONS > > > I believe this car has a lot of non original > items, color shemes not > > appropaite. > > lots of chrome.... > > It would be great if we point all the mistakes > > this car has in order to learn. > > Josi Vicente Vargas > > Bogota, Colombia > > ________________________________ > > From: Robert Duquette > > Subject: [Healeys] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ > > LEMANS OPTIONS > > > > ebay # 220654427516 > > BN1/219246 > > I like this car. I'm partial > > to RHD cars. Maybe I'll win the lottery > > tonight? > > Too much chrome for my > > liking though. > > The underside is unrepresented. > > Those acorn nuts holding down > > the head ??? > > There are screws holding down the engine ID > tag. That reminds me > > that I have > > to figure out how to get those chopped off > rivets out of my block > > ... > > I'm sure Rich's list would be very long. > > Robert DuquetteOttawa ON > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fietts02 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Sat Aug 21 11:09:59 2010 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:09:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Welcome to the "1006" mailing list References: <18945248-BA36-4469-AC49-14B8E851B40D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9D5D8B6D-2CC7-4F18-8FA3-71E3367B8F62@gmail.com> List, Ed set up a site for discussion on the '54 BN1 that was on ebay. To subscribe & post, see below. Best to keep it off the regular list. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com > > Begin forwarded message: > >> From: 1006-request at justbrits.com >> Date: August 21, 2010 11:12:54 AM EDT >> To: Healey100M at gmail.com >> Subject: Welcome to the "1006" mailing list >> >> Welcome to the 1006 at justbrits.com mailing list! PLEASE KEEP these >> Instructions, because I will NOT bail you out. You're a grown adult - >> act like it. >> >> To post to this list, send your email to: >> >> 1006 at justbrits.com >> >> General information about the mailing list is at: >> >> http://box267.bluehost.com/mailman/listinfo/1006_justbrits.com >> >> If you ever want to unsubscribe or change your options (eg, switch to >> or from digest mode, change your password, etc.), visit your >> subscription page at: >> >> http://box267.bluehost.com/mailman/options/1006_justbrits.com/healey100m%40gm ail.com >> >> >> You can also make such adjustments via email by sending a message to: >> >> 1006-request at 1006@justbrits.com >> >> with the word `help' in the subject or body (don't include the >> quotes), and you will get back a message with instructions. >> >> You must know your password to change your options (including changing >> the password, itself) or to unsubscribe. It is: >> >> hicotaot >> >> Normally, Mailman will remind you of your 1006 at justbrits.com mailing >> list passwords once every month, although you can disable this if you >> prefer. This reminder will also include instructions on how to >> unsubscribe or change your account options. There is also a button on >> your options page that will email your current password to you. From f9cougar at yahoo.com Sat Aug 21 12:50:00 2010 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:50:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 4 Sale Message-ID: <583446.29733.qm@web112015.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi gents/ladies - It's on the North County San Diego Craig's List, and as of noon, Pacific time, it will be listing 230514112948. Buy it. It's awesome - JRC From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 21 13:18:30 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 14:18:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Welcome to the "1006" mailing list In-Reply-To: <9D5D8B6D-2CC7-4F18-8FA3-71E3367B8F62@gmail.com> References: <18945248-BA36-4469-AC49-14B8E851B40D@gmail.com> <9D5D8B6D-2CC7-4F18-8FA3-71E3367B8F62@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C702686.2050901@justbrits.com> << List, Ed set up a site for discussion on the '54 BN1 that was on ebay. To subscribe & post, see below. Best to keep it off the regular list. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans >> Folks, Randy's "included directions" were wrong !?! To join: Exactly like the Healeys List; send a mail TO: 1006-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just subscribe in the body. Rest IS automatic. There ARE normal Archives. There is NO 'size' limitation. Attachments and/or Pictures ARE ALLOWED !!! Your "personal page" looks exactly like your Healeys one !! My MAIN purpose was to allow NO SIZE and viewing of pics by ALL that are interested. Everybody is Welcome. There is NO "moderation". I don't want anything but only because I suspect this will be a short-lived discussion BUT the Archives WILL remain open to all Healeyers !! Me From selgrath at ix.netcom.com Sat Aug 21 13:30:42 2010 From: selgrath at ix.netcom.com (Joe Selgrath) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BCS fan shroud Message-ID: <4C702962.3090902@ix.netcom.com> I received a fan shroud from BCS, but I'm not sure how the fan shroud is installed. I trial fitted the shroud, but I'm not sure how much gap to maintain between the fan and the shroud. Does anyone have photos of the installation they can send? Or a description of how they installed the fan? I am using the BCS flex fan. Thanks Joe (BN7) From gmandas at yahoo.com Sat Aug 21 14:18:21 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:18:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt shocks Message-ID: <425425.80361.qm@web56105.mail.re3.yahoo.com> All four back from Peter and installed. Wow, what a difference. Thank you Peter and Co. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 21 17:09:08 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 18:09:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Welcome to the "1006" mailing list In-Reply-To: <4C702686.2050901@justbrits.com> References: <18945248-BA36-4469-AC49-14B8E851B40D@gmail.com> <9D5D8B6D-2CC7-4F18-8FA3-71E3367B8F62@gmail.com> <4C702686.2050901@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C705C94.2030006@justbrits.com> From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 21 18:42:09 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Welcome to the "1006" mailing list] Message-ID: <4C707261.8020904@justbrits.com> Folks, just FWIW & FYI all of the hails to Healeys List posted today with the "Subject:" Re: [Healey] ebay: 1954 AUSTIN HEALEY W/ LEMANS OPTIONS HAVE been re-sent/forwarded to the 1006 List so that they ARE in the Archives. All the info in the same place and about ONE [1] "Subject". Ed ******************************************************** << Folks, Randy's "included directions" were wrong !?! To join: Exactly like the Healeys List; send a mail TO: 1006-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just subscribe in the body. Rest IS automatic. There ARE normal Archives. There is NO 'size' limitation. Attachments and/or Pictures ARE ALLOWED !!! Your "personal page" looks exactly like your Healeys one !! My MAIN purpose was to allow NO SIZE and viewing of pics by ALL that are interested. Everybody is Welcome. There is NO "moderation". I don't want anything but only because I suspect this will be a short-lived discussion BUT the Archives WILL remain open to all Healeyers !! Ed >> From healeydoc at verizon.net Sat Aug 21 18:42:26 2010 From: healeydoc at verizon.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 17:42:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BCS fan shroud In-Reply-To: <4C702962.3090902@ix.netcom.com> References: <4C702962.3090902@ix.netcom.com> Message-ID: The shroud attached on the rear side of the upper bolt on the lower radiator brackets. The you will need to drill a hole in the original shroud close to the edge approx 3/8 to 1/2 from the bottom. Then on the drivers side sometimes they are close to the fan at the bottom depending on the condition of your motor mounts. If this is the case then after attaching the shroud at the top an bottom you will need to push in on the shroud to flatten the curve a little and then tighten the bottom bolt on the drivers side. This will then give more clearance at the bottom edge. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialis.com On Aug 21, 2010, at 12:30 PM, Joe Selgrath wrote: > I received a fan shroud from BCS, but I'm not sure how the fan > shroud is installed. I trial fitted the shroud, but I'm not sure > how much gap to maintain between the fan and the shroud. Does > anyone have photos of the installation they can send? Or a > description of how they installed the fan? I am using the BCS flex > fan. > > Thanks > > Joe (BN7) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at verizon.net From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Aug 21 19:28:20 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:28:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? Message-ID: Hi folks, My car sat for a long time. I started it every 3 months and put new gas in it two months back. Has new Facet fuel pump and new points. I just installed the rebuilt tranny and it is now running poorly. Tough to start. I flooded it trying to start it Sunday. The next day I cleaned the plugs and it fired up. I drove it to Fedex and it barely started for the trip home. It ran very flabby all the way home. Almost felt like heat was causing a problem though it never did this before I parked it for tranny repair. I plan to install new plugs tomorrow. What do you guys recommend as cheap/best plugs to buy for a 60 BN7 at Autozone? No modifications other than Facet pump. Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA/Bluegrass AH Club 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Aug 21 19:28:56 2010 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:28:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? Message-ID: Hi folks, My car sat for a long time. I started it every 3 months and put new gas in it two months back. Has new Facet fuel pump and new points. I just installed the rebuilt tranny and it is now running poorly. Tough to start. I flooded it trying to start it Sunday. The next day I cleaned the plugs and it fired up. I drove it to Fedex and it barely started for the trip home. It ran very flabby all the way home. Almost felt like heat was causing a problem though it never did this before I parked it for tranny repair. I plan to install new plugs tomorrow. What do you guys recommend as cheap/best plugs to buy for a 60 BN7 at Autozone? No modifications other than Facet pump. Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA/Bluegrass AH Club 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From pennell at cox.net Sat Aug 21 20:37:14 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 22:37:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sticking brakes resolved In-Reply-To: <20100816114640.M88VB.1457167.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <20100821223714.X1C6Z.1521489.imail@eastrmwml47> Hello Listers, Thanks to the many who replied on my initial sticking brakes issue. All your suggestions had merit and I carefully considered each one. Today i got back to the sticking problem. I placed a bar clamp loosely on the exposed shoes and then began to use the brake pedal. No motion in the shoes. I could not get them to retract either. So I thought I should do something. The lining surface looked a bit glazed so I roughed them up with sandpaper. Next I bled an ounce or two of fluid out of the wheel cylinder. Finally, a bit of pounding on the shoes and wheel cylinder with my hand provided movement in everything. Voila! No more sticking brakes! Still not sure of what the prob was. It appears that the wheel cylinder was not free to move in the backplate. The test drive this evening was wonderful. She ran just fine and the brakes were as new. Thanks again for the input. This list is such a huge resource. Keith ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: > Listers, > > Had an interesting happeniing on a recent drive. It felt like the brakes were sticking and I could also feel it as I slowed just before a stop. I cut my drive short and went home. > > Several days later I jacked up the rear and found the left rear would stick solid after applying the brakes. The right rear remained free. The only way I could free it was to remove the wheel to get enough effort on the adjuster to turn it. One click released it fully. Since then several times I have applied the brakes, waited 24 or more hours, and checked again. Still stuck. > > I know this symptom could be a sign of the rear flex hose swelling but wouldn't that also cause the right rear to hang up? Any thoughts please? > > Keith From MBran89793 at aol.com Sat Aug 21 21:28:31 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 23:28:31 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? Message-ID: <261f0.2a2123cd.39a1f35f@aol.com> I have used NGK plugs in the BP6ES heat range since the '60. They worked fine for Bill Borja and me on our recent 9,500 mile trip. Marion S. Brantley In a message dated 8/21/2010 10:17:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahpowered at hotmail.com writes: What do you guys recommend as cheap/best plugs to buy for a 60 BN7 at Autozone? From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Aug 21 21:54:53 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 22:54:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <675DD28208F94B7C90BFF23A4B387011@GregPC> Although the plugs are a cheap fix, I am guessing they are not the solution, you mention a rebuilt tranny, was the ground strap attached to a tranny bolt? was it reattached, I ran a feacet pump for a whule, even though it was the "correct" low pressure item, it produced too much pressure and the car never ran right, would periodically flood out the carbs and run too rich, other possibilties, a wire got knocked loose or intermittent or ignition timing knocked out in the refit of the tranny. New tranny shouldn't cause the problem, but if major work done to the car always look at what might have been disturbed, changed etc. as a possible source of change from running good to running bad. Possible chain store plugs Champion RN12YC, Bosch W7DC, NGK BP6ES Good Luck! Greg Lemon From medlabinc at msn.com Sun Aug 22 08:37:22 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 07:37:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Digest N0.4 Message-ID: Martin: Would you say the event you had when you were 20 had anything to do with what has turned out to be your lifes work or Jule Enterprises ? Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Martin Jansen To: healeys at autox.team.net ; Mark LaPierre Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:17 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Digest N0.4, Enquiring minds want to know Mark, Yes it is personal. when I was 20 years old I was involved in a serious car accident when the car I purchased with a welded chassis by someone I thought had skills. the welds broke apart which took me flying into a bush and I broke everything between my neck and hips. Fortunately there was no permanent spinal injury and I had young bones that healed. I was lucky. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com ______________________________________________ From ah3000me at gmail.com Sun Aug 22 08:46:42 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 10:46:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting Message-ID: In this morning's paper (Sunday), the Red and Rover comic strip. - Tom From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 22 08:54:19 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 07:54:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? In-Reply-To: <675DD28208F94B7C90BFF23A4B387011@GregPC> References: <675DD28208F94B7C90BFF23A4B387011@GregPC> Message-ID: <4AE1E733-8D41-4D35-9CC6-0E1E686E778D@gmail.com> Bad gas from sitting. Gummed up carbs from sitting. No oil in dash pods I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Aug 21, 2010, at 8:54 PM, "Greg Lemon" wrote: > Although the plugs are a cheap fix, I am guessing they are not the > solution, you mention a rebuilt tranny, was the ground strap > attached to a tranny bolt? was it reattached, I ran a feacet pump > for a whule, even though it was the "correct" low pressure item, it > produced too much pressure and the car never ran right, would > periodically flood out the carbs and run too rich, other > possibilties, a wire got knocked loose or intermittent or ignition > timing knocked out in the refit of the tranny. > > New tranny shouldn't cause the problem, but if major work done to > the car always look at what might have been disturbed, changed etc. > as a possible source of change from running good to running bad. > > Possible chain store plugs Champion RN12YC, Bosch W7DC, NGK BP6ES > > Good Luck! > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 09:51:16 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 08:51:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C714774.6020100@comcast.net> Simulated scuttle shake? http://www.arcamax.com/redandrover bs Tom wrote: > In this morning's paper (Sunday), the Red and Rover comic strip. > > - Tom > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From charlieoc at comcast.net Sun Aug 22 10:17:19 2010 From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 12:17:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02d001cb4215$7f395000$7dabf000$@net> And for those of us who don't have Red and Rover in their local Sunday paper, http://www.arcamax.com/redandrover Charlie (It'll take more than 25 cents to ride in my Healey) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 10:47 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting In this morning's paper (Sunday), the Red and Rover comic strip. - Tom _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/charlieoc at comcast.net From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 22 12:17:23 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:17:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting In-Reply-To: <02d001cb4215$7f395000$7dabf000$@net> Message-ID: <240052.31901.qm@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> 145 pounds of Puppy! http://gmandas.com/bj8/bj8-bailey.jpg Greg --- On Sun, 8/22/10, Charlie O'Connors wrote: > From: Charlie O'Connors > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey siting > To: "'Tom'" , "'Healey Mail List'" > Date: Sunday, August 22, 2010, 12:17 PM > And for those of us who don't have > Red and Rover in their local Sunday > paper, > http://www.arcamax.com/redandrover > > Charlie > (It'll take more than 25 cents to ride in my Healey) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom > Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 10:47 AM > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting > > In this morning's paper (Sunday), the Red and Rover comic > strip. > > - Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/charlieoc at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From gmandas at yahoo.com Sun Aug 22 12:32:40 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:32:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting Message-ID: <849877.11470.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> 145 pounds of Puppy! http://gmandas.com/bj8/bj8-bailey.jpg Greg > > > > Charlie > > (It'll take more than 25 cents to ride in my Healey) > > > > > > In this morning's paper (Sunday), the Red and Rover > comic > > strip. > > > > - Tom > > _______________________________________________ From waschu2 at gmail.com Sun Aug 22 12:41:27 2010 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 14:41:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] uprated tappets Message-ID: <4C716F57.60706@gmail.com> Hi, Does anyone know the source for the uprated light weight lifter used by some builders. I put a set of BMC sourced lifters in a friends car 20 years ago but I don't remember what they were used in. The next question is does anyone know the length of the push rods used with these lifters? Thanks! Wayne From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sun Aug 22 17:05:02 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 01:05:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] uprated tappets In-Reply-To: <4C716F57.60706@gmail.com> References: <4C716F57.60706@gmail.com> Message-ID: I believe they are from the MGC. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 22 aug 2010 kl. 20.41 skrev Wayne Schultz: > Hi, > > Does anyone know the source for the uprated light weight lifter used by some builders. I put a set of BMC sourced lifters in a friends car 20 years ago but I don't remember what they were used in. The next question is does anyone know the length of the push rods used with these lifters? Thanks! > > > Wayne From mkgoodman at att.net Sun Aug 22 18:39:11 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:39:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] John Everard Message-ID: <000001cb425b$9b2e48b0$d18ada10$@net> I received this from Mike & Mell Ward about Jonathan Everard. I did have the pleasure to meet him at the 50th Anniversary of the 3000 in Warwick last summer, and he will be missed. Mark Goodman JONATHAN EVERARD We have just received the very sad news that Jonathon Everard passed away earlier this week whilst on holiday with his wife, Alison in Spain. Jonathon was known to so many of our members through his company JME Healeys and through his personal involvement with many Club events and activities. His knowledge of Austin Healeys was unrivalled and his enthusiasm and advice has been of immense value to the Club over many years. His recent return to The Cape in Warwick and the setting up of JME Healeys in the old ancestral home of Austin Healey was an emotional experience for many of us who attended his opening event. Jon spent his whole life, devoted to the marque from serving an apprenticeship with The Donald Healey Motor Company to the setting up of JME. Jon rallied the 'Big Healey' with great success, winning the British Historic Rally Championship in 'SMO' and the Pirelly Classic Marathon. He re built and maintained and indeed rallied some of the most illustrious of the great Healey works rally cars, including the ex - Pat Moss SMO745, ex-Aaltonen BMO93B and probably the greatest of them all, URX727. He had only just returned from Italy having completed successfully in the Mille Miglia in EVV106, the famous 100S known to us all as 'The Green Car'. JME Healeys are continuing to operate during this difficult time under the direction of Jons' son Chris with the full support of the loyal team of technicians. On behalf of all our members we would wish to extend our sincere regrets and sympathy to Alison and her family, Alex, Chris, Daniel and Charlotte, during this very sad time. Arrangements for the funeral are not yet finalised, and as soon as we receive the details, these will be passed on to you all. Mike Ward Chairman Austin Healey Club Midlands & Overseas Centre From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 22 20:19:01 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 22:19:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? References: Message-ID: <000601cb4269$8daa2b10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Seems most retailers are just carrying the AC plugs to meet our standard plug guide lines. I can't find Champions anywhere around IN anymore. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "scott willis" To: Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:28 PM Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? > Hi folks, > My car sat for a long time. I started it every 3 months and > put new gas in it two months back. Has new Facet fuel pump and new > points. I just installed the rebuilt tranny and it is now running > poorly. Tough to start. I flooded it trying to start it Sunday. The next > day I cleaned the plugs and it fired up. I drove it to Fedex and it > barely started for the trip home. It ran very flabby all the way home. > Almost felt like heat was causing a problem though it never did this > before I parked it for tranny repair. > > I plan to install new plugs > tomorrow. What do you guys recommend as cheap/best plugs to buy for a > 60 BN7 at Autozone? No modifications other than Facet pump. > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA/Bluegrass AH Club > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Aug 23 07:08:55 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 07:08:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Support your little brothers buy a hmodified shirt today Message-ID: Greetings Healey enthusiasts, With an extreme personal financial interest, I reach out to the folks on the Healey list to help finance the trophy for our event at Infineon in October. H modified is an old racing class for sports cars with under 850 cc engines. I must place my shirt order by Friday but an email reply will reserve something for you. The design can be seen at the following link: http://dsrforum.yuku.com/topic/7315/master/1/?page=1 It is time to support Hmod racing by purchasing your Puckett Cup regalia now. Jamie Pfeifer has produced an excellent design featuring long time H-Mod participants. R to L, Marty Stein, Siata, Don Baldocchi, Nardi Crosley and Don Racine, Aardvark. Three items will be available featuring the artwork: Dash Plaque (free to event participants) otherwise $5 T- shirts....................................................................... ..$20 24" X 24" Poster..........................................................$15 Postage .......................................................................$6.00 for a small flat rate Box via mail or take delivery at the event. I have until August 27 to collect orders, there will be a few extra available at the event. Send checks to: Henry Morrison 8 Punto Alto Ct. Cedar Crest, NM 87008 Or I suppose I can take paypal at dos_gusanos at msn.com Please include your size S, M, L, XL, XXL etc. All proceeds will go to cover the costs of the Puckett Cup at the CSRG Charity Challenge. Thank you, Henry Morrison BT7 Hmod Renault Elva Courier TR4 TR6 TR7 From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Aug 23 09:49:16 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:49:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU floats Message-ID: I was looking at my brass floats from the HD8's on the BJ8 (relatively new craporators from Burlen) and they have so much solder tinkling inside that they have a good tilt to them when floating in a pan of water. No bubles, though. I suppose that the float chamber center rod prevents any real issues with maintaining the float level setting. Right?? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From pieters at pt.lu Mon Aug 23 09:49:46 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 17:49:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Reverse lockout Message-ID: <1DDA818A-3D95-40FE-B13D-35E0CA120EA0@pt.lu> Hello Listers, I have been having trouble with the reverse lockout on my BJ7. The plunger gets stuck down which means spirited changes from 3rd down to 2nd can often find the WRONG gear. I have checked for burrs and the spring seems to still have good tension. Is this a common problem and is there an easy fix. Would a new or uprated spring help, cheers Pieter From wilkmanracing at aol.com Mon Aug 23 10:38:20 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 12:38:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Four Cylinder Club History Project Message-ID: <8CD10F8BAF39328-1FF4-1DCB@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com> I have undertaken the task of chronicling the history of the Four Cylinder Club of America. Some of the older members of this list may recall this club. Founded ca. 1949-1950, it was the largest non-racing sports car club in the United States at least in the 1950s and 1960s. To display and provide a forum for the documentation of its history, I have developed the following web site: www.fourcylinderclubhistory.com I have only scratched the surface of the materials I have and I continue to post new items every week. I think most of the folks on this list will enjoy this trip down memory lane. There are lots of photographs of British cars from the era. If anyone on the list has any historical materials related to the club, I would greatly appreciate hearing from you. Bill Wilkman Riverside, CA From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 23 12:29:59 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 14:29:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU float bowl lids Message-ID: <8CD110853E2254A-1698-8E7@webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com> I saw something this weekend that I thought was strange, but I wasn't sure if there was a reason that I was unfamiliar with. The car was a 100 with "M" modifications among other changes. The SU carb float bowl lids were the type designed for banjo bolt fuel line fittings. This type of lid usually has a small hollow cylinder cast into the lid near the banjo bolt fitting & the bottom of the cylinder is NOT open to the float chamber. I know the cylinder is there to accommodate a "tickler valve". The cylinders on both lids fitted to this 100 were open to the float chamber, but were not fitted with "tickler valves". They also had the overflow tubes fitted to the lids, so I cannot imagine any reason for having the cylinders open. Did 100s ever come with "tickler valves"? Ever see this on any application? Gary Hodson From canda3000 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 23 13:31:59 2010 From: canda3000 at hotmail.com (chris davis) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 20:31:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 582-Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 References: Message-ID: Fuel pressure?- best to install a pressure regulator with a facet pump. did you drain the tank before filling with fresh fuel? regards cjd > 6. Re: Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? (Mark LaPierre) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "scott willis" > To: > Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 9:28 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Best Spark Plugs for 60 BN7 avail on Sunday? > > >> Hi folks, >> My car sat for a long time. I started it every 3 months and >> put new gas in it two months back. Has new Facet fuel pump and new >> points. I just installed the rebuilt tranny and it is now running >> poorly. Tough to start. I flooded it trying to start it Sunday. The next >> day I cleaned the plugs and it fired up. I drove it to Fedex and it >> barely started for the trip home. It ran very flabby all the way home. >> Almost felt like heat was causing a problem though it never did this >> before I parked it for tranny repair. >> >> I plan to install new plugs >> tomorrow. What do you guys recommend as cheap/best plugs to buy for a >> 60 BN7 at Autozone? No modifications other than Facet pump. >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA/Bluegrass AH Club >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 23 14:58:41 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 13:58:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Reverse lockout In-Reply-To: <1DDA818A-3D95-40FE-B13D-35E0CA120EA0@pt.lu> References: <1DDA818A-3D95-40FE-B13D-35E0CA120EA0@pt.lu> Message-ID: This thread reminds me an issue I have had. When we rebuilt the tranny in my BT7 we left off the reverse lock out "ball bearing" ??? I do not recall how the lock out works, but my larger issue is this... I will be removing my tranny this winter to either upgrade to a BJ8 clutch or replace with a smitty conversion. So when the box is out can I access the lock out bits and fix then without taking apart the whole unit? TIA On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 8:49 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote: > Hello Listers, > I have been having trouble with the reverse lockout on my BJ7. The plunger > gets stuck down which means spirited changes from 3rd down to 2nd can often > find the WRONG gear. I have checked for burrs and the spring seems to still > have good tension. Is this a common problem and is there an easy fix. Would > a new or uprated spring help, > cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ggilliam at usol.com Mon Aug 23 16:14:52 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 18:14:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Thermostat=3F?= Message-ID: On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in Flint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested , with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling the entire downtown area. Thousands of them! On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, overheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. Car started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation that I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film on it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared normal, temp stayed low (~160). The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The question is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the Moss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 23 16:52:00 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (p_cquinn at tpg.com.au) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 08:52:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Image Message-ID: <1282603920.4c72fb9070ca6@postoffice.tpg.com.au> Gday With the southern summer approaching I am preparing a small article for our magazine on cooling and keeping your Austin-Healey running at the right temperature. So I am looking for a photo of a clean or freshly painted radiator. It doesnt matter if its from a 4 or 6 cylinder, but I would like it to be clean or freshly painted. It also should also be out of the car. So if anyone has one they could send me that would be much appreciated. High resolution please. Your reward? Lots of warm feelings and Ill place you on the mailing list for the digital version. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From ggilliam at usol.com Mon Aug 23 16:58:30 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 18:58:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?BJ8_Clutch=3F?= Message-ID: I have a used BJ8 Trans and overdrive, condition unknown, but said to be "fine" when last used. You've all heard that before, I'm sure. Some day I hope to install it in my BN4, which clunks badly in first gear, and seems to have poor synchros, and no overdrive. The clutch I got with this trans has two of the locating links on the pressure plate cover worn or torn off one end of each, if you can picture what I'm saying. What would cause this? Is this an indication that the trans or OD could be suspect? Is there any way to bench test the trans/OD prior to installation? Inspecting the trans internals appears clean and no obvious (to me) faults. What difficulties other than tunnel cover differences will I encounter with this swap? So I would probably buy a new clutch set anyway when it came time to install the trans., can it be used with the existing side shift trans should the newer replacement be un-usable? Thanks, Gordy Longbridge BN4 From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 23 17:51:00 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 19:51:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> According to Norm Nock approximately 20% of the coolant flow will bypass the radiator & return to the engine thru the bypass port in the head if you don't have the sleeved type thermostat. I believed him & have been using one the sleeved thermostats. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: ggilliam at usol.com To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Aug 23, 2010 5:14 pm Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in lint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling he entire downtown area. Thousands of them! On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, verheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. ar started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation hat I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film n it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared ormal, temp stayed low (~160). The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The uestion is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the oss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From bj7ah at acanac.net Mon Aug 23 19:01:41 2010 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:01:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Clutch? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8389BE5150854CDA9BC6871FC9742D00@HPLT> I Have Benched tested a transmission and a overdrive by filling with oil and running the transmission with an electric drill. Made up a coupling out of a piece of plastic tubing and a socket adaptor to the input shaft. This way you can see if the overdrive is working. Also connected a Speedometer to the transmission to observe the change in speed when the OD engaged. It worked fine for me Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 6:58 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Clutch? > I have a used BJ8 Trans and overdrive, condition unknown, but said to be > "fine" when last used. You've all heard that before, I'm sure. > > Some day I hope to install it in my BN4, which clunks badly in first > gear, and seems to have poor synchros, and no overdrive. The clutch I got > with this trans has two of the locating links on the pressure plate cover > worn or torn off one end of each, if you can picture what I'm saying. What > would cause this? Is this an indication that the trans or OD could be > suspect? Is there any way to bench test the trans/OD prior to > installation? > Inspecting the trans internals appears clean and no obvious (to me) > faults. > > > What difficulties other than tunnel cover differences will I encounter > with this swap? > > So I would probably buy a new clutch set anyway when it came time to > install the trans., can it be used with the existing side shift trans > should the newer replacement be un-usable? > > Thanks, > > Gordy > > Longbridge BN4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 23 19:06:39 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 18:06:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Put old thermo in pot o water on stove with thermometer rated to 220 degrees. Heat up water and see if/when it opens to see if it works right On Aug 23, 2010 3:56 PM, wrote: On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in Flint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested , with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling the entire downtown area. Thousands of them! On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, overheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. Car started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation that I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film on it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared normal, temp stayed low (~160). The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The question is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the Moss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 23 19:10:13 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 09:10:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gordy - Yes, the sleeved thermostats do make a difference on the 6 cyl cars. You should also consider having your radiator rodded (should be cheap to do in MI), some owners install four row radiators, but it's not too hot in MI except for a month or two, so maybe you don't need to do this. Use distilled water. It will significantly reduce any scaling. Alan On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 6:14 AM, wrote: > On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in > Flint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested > , with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling > the entire downtown area. Thousands of them! > > On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, > overheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. > > Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. > Car started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation > that I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film > on it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared > normal, temp stayed low (~160). > > The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The > question is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the > Moss catalog really that much better? > > Comments....suggestions? > > Gordy > > Longbridge BN4 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 23 19:30:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 18:30:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7320B7.20808@comcast.net> Gary, Any idea how much difference the 'correct' thermostat makes? Bob warthodson at aol.com wrote: > According to Norm Nock approximately 20% of the coolant flow will bypass the > radiator & return to the engine thru the bypass port in the head if you don't > have the sleeved type thermostat. I believed him & have been using one the > sleeved thermostats. > Gary Hodson > > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 23 21:46:33 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 20:46:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild - how to do it! Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100823204506.0205f2d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hello! I figured this out and sent an article with pictures to John Sims. I presume he will post it and let the list know when it can be viewed on his website. Cheers, John From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Aug 24 01:15:20 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 08:15:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000301cb435c$1cbf9180$563eb480$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I'm no expert, particularly on the 4 cylinder models, but I thought that the 4s don't have the engine bypass per the 6s. Thus a sleeved version would be inappropriate anyhow? Any type of thermostat can jam/die. Test it with boiling water and, if in doubt, replace. Gary, if the gurus tell us that I'm wrong about the bypass, I'll send you an article I put together for our local mag. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: 24 August 2010 00:51 To: ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? According to Norm Nock approximately 20% of the coolant flow will bypass the radiator & return to the engine thru the bypass port in the head if you don't have the sleeved type thermostat. I believed him & have been using one the sleeved thermostats. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: ggilliam at usol.com To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Aug 23, 2010 5:14 pm Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in lint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling he entire downtown area. Thousands of them! On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, verheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. ar started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation hat I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film n it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared ormal, temp stayed low (~160). The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The uestion is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the oss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Aug 24 02:34:52 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 09:34:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Thermostat? Message-ID: <000801cb4367$3950f310$abf2d930$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Oops. Two minutes after last posting..........I'd just got out of bed. Should have thought longer before accusing a BN4 of losing 2 cylinders. Said I wasn't an expert didn't I? Going away to eat humble pie. Gordy, see attached which will be stripped off before the laughing gurus see it! Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ggilliam at usol.com Sent: 23 August 2010 23:15 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? On Friday I drove my BN4 to the "Back to the Bricks" car festival in Flint,MI, about a twenty five mile trip, the last half mile quite congested , with all manner of classic, collector, muscle or specialty cars filling the entire downtown area. Thousands of them! On the way home that evening, coolant gushed out, in large quantities, overheated, requiring my first ever use of Hagerty road assistance. Saturday morning I refilled the radiator, over 1 gal required to fill it. Car started immediately, but I didn't see the usual coolant circulation that I have noticed before. I removed the thermostat, a bit of rusty film on it, but normal looking. Went for a 10 or so mile drive, all appeared normal, temp stayed low (~160). The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The question is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the Moss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Thermostats.pdf] From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Aug 24 07:01:47 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 09:01:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 gearbox in a BN4 Message-ID: Hi Gordy. I did the same swap. I put a BJ8 gearbox in my Longbridge BN4. I did it about 13 years ago, but from want I remember I used the BJ8 clutch. I used the center shift fiberglass tunnel and had to add a bit of metal (to the tunnel) on both sides that connects to the floor. Also the OD comes REAL close to the frame at the rear of the gearbox. I spaced the rear mounts up a bit to help with clearance- rather then cutting and notching the frame. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 24 08:17:33 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 10:17:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <4C7320B7.20808@comcast.net> References: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> <4C7320B7.20808@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD11AE3A7F51FD-214C-C833@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> No, I never have tried using a thermostat without a sleeve. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Aug 23, 2010 8:30 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? Gary, Any idea how much difference the 'correct' thermostat makes? Bob From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 24 08:27:12 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 10:27:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <000301cb435c$1cbf9180$563eb480$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> <000301cb435c$1cbf9180$563eb480$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <8CD11AF935EF0ED-214C-CB51@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> I thought the car in question was a 6 cylinder (BN4). -----Original Message----- From: Simon Lachlan To: warthodson at aol.com; ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Aug 24, 2010 2:15 am Subject: RE: [Healeys] Thermostat? I'm no expert, particularly on the 4 cylinder models, but I thought that the s don't have the engine bypass per the 6s. hus a sleeved version would be inappropriate anyhow? ny type of thermostat can jam/die. Test it with boiling water and, if in oubt, replace. ary, if the gurus tell us that I'm wrong about the bypass, I'll send you an rticle I put together for our local mag. imon -----Original Message----- rom: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] n Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com ent: 24 August 2010 00:51 o: ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net ubject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? According to Norm Nock approximately 20% of the coolant flow will bypass the adiator & return to the engine thru the bypass port in the head if you on't ave the sleeved type thermostat. I believed him & have been using one the leeved thermostats. ary Hodson ----Original Message----- rom: ggilliam at usol.com o: Healeys at autox.team.net ent: Mon, Aug 23, 2010 5:14 pm ubject: [Healeys] Thermostat? n Friday I drove my BN4 The thermostat is the usual automotive type, maybe 10 yrs old. The estion is, is the much more expensive ($80 or 43) sleeved type in the ss catalog really that much better? Comments....suggestions? Gordy Longbridge BN4 _____________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Aug 24 09:36:14 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 11:36:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <8CD11AE3A7F51FD-214C-C833@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD11352C126D49-3BA8-46B2@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com> <4C7320B7.20808@comcast.net> <8CD11AE3A7F51FD-214C-C833@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000301cb43a2$16861500$43923f00$@rr.com> My BJ8 has been running higher on the temp gauge than I would like and I had never tried the sleeved thermostat, so I recently purchased a NOS AC Delco bellows thermostat with the sleeve (187 deg. F). I was truly disappointed that the new thermostat made absolutely no difference in the running temperature compared with the non-sleeved thermostat (180 deg. F). The car still approaches 212 deg. F as it did before. Of course, it's been pretty hot around here this summer. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 10:18 AM To: ubspidell at comcast.net Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? No, I never have tried using a thermostat without a sleeve. Gary From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 10:40:11 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 16:40:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <000301cb43a2$16861500$43923f00$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1934203108.301210.1282668011506.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Interesting. You'd think pumping more hot coolant through the radiator--and less back through the head--would make a difference. Apparently, the 'bottleneck' in heat dissipation is elsewhere. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA My BJ8 has been running higher on the temp gauge than I would like and I had never tried the sleeved thermostat, so I recently purchased a NOS AC Delco bellows thermostat with the sleeve (187 deg. F). I was truly disappointed that the new thermostat made absolutely no difference in the running temperature compared with the non-sleeved thermostat (180 deg. F). The car still approaches 212 deg. F as it did before. Of course, it's been pretty hot around here this summer. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- No, I never have tried using a thermostat without a sleeve. Gary From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Aug 24 11:31:27 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:31:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: <1934203108.301210.1282668011506.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <000301cb43a2$16861500$43923f00$@rr.com> <1934203108.301210.1282668011506.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000d01cb43b2$2ee60fa0$8cb22ee0$@rr.com> Yes, one would. Thatbs why it was such a disappointment that I saw no change. I had my engine rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned the coolant passages 11 years ago. The radiator is a stock replacement from Moss after their Chinese 6-bladed fan threw a blade through the header tank of the original radiator. I have always used only distilled water and antifreeze since the engine rebuild. I have a radiator shroud that encloses the Texas Kooler fan except at the bottom. The stock air deflectors are in place, and I have an overflow system installed. I removed the temp gauge once and tested it in a pan of water boiling on the kitchen stove, and found it reading 10 deg. too high. I repositioned the needle exactly between the two small dots at the 212 mark while the sensor was still in the boiling water. Afterwards, the gauge usually stayed between 190 and 200 in the hot part of the day during the summer until the last few years when it looks like 200 to 212 is bnormalb. The gauge never goes over 212. The funny thing is, during the return from Conclave in San Diego the gauge went to 212 and stayed there for four hours while motoring through the California desert with ambient temp at 116 deg. F. Why wouldnbt there be some noticeable difference between that and the local temps of 95? When I canbt stand it anymore, Ibll take the gauge out and test it again. I was sure the sleeved thermostat would make a difference, but it didnbt and all other things are the same. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 12:40 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? Interesting. You'd think pumping more hot coolant through the radiator--and less back through the head--would make a difference. Apparently, the 'bottleneck' in heat dissipation is elsewhere. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Aug 24 13:19:48 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:19:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content Message-ID: I think this is the 4? Anyone? http://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Aug 24 13:46:39 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 15:46:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: <000301cb43a2$16861500$43923f00$@rr.com> <1934203108.301210.1282668011506.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <000d01cb43b2$2ee60fa0$8cb22ee0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002001cb43c5$1245be50$36d13af0$@rr.com> David, thanks for your thoughts, but I'm afraid you misunderstood. My radiator is not a POS Chinese item like the 6-bladed fan that broke and damaged my original radiator. The radiator Moss sent me as a replacement is a stock radiator made by the Coventry Radiator Presswork Co., Ltd. with all of the same identification and markings as the original except that the serial numbers are not the same, of course. Admittedly, the radiator may be my problem, but visibly there is nothing wrong with it and I had no reason to have it tested and inspected before I installed it in March 1996. The tubes as I can see them through the filler neck are all clear with no signs of sediment or damage. When I drained the coolant a few weeks ago, it was also clear with no evidence of rust, etc. I reused the coolant and poured it back through a paint strainer. There were no particles visible. The coolant is a year old. Certainly re-coring the radiator with larger capacity tubes should improve cooling, but that ain't cheap and it hasn't made it to the top of my priority list yet. It's just peculiar to me that the sleeved thermostat made no difference in the stabilized running temperature as compared with the non-sleeved one. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 3:05 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? Remember that the radiator is the main part that controls the high engine temperature. The thermostats main job is to get the engine up to operating temp as soon a possible. Then once the thermostat is open in no longer is an issue in the cooling system other that the bypass. The bypass is there to allow the coolant to circulate when the thermostat is closed, and if it is not blocked off when the thermostat is open approx 20% of the coolant will not go thru the radiator. I would bet that your problem is that P.O.S chinese radiator that you have is your problem. I have had many customers install these radiators in many different cars from Healey's to MG's and Triumph's and all of them have had heating problems. I have fixed every one of them by installing one of my special radiator cores that we use. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 24 13:57:38 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 12:57:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1F852823-43BD-44BA-9A28-FBB0C6F1A0B8@cox.net> I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it is delivered. Wilko San Diego On Aug 18, 2010, at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. > It > is located in Lenox, MA > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Aug 24 14:21:53 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:21:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] thermostat Message-ID: Steve, consider buying an info-red thermometer at Harbor Freight for about 25 dollars (usually they have 20% coupons) and aim it at the thermostat housing and several areas on the bock after a 20 minute run. You might be surprised that you are not as hot as you think. At the temps you are getting you would loose coolant a bit. Nice thing is that you don't have to take anything apart to test. I found a bit of a difference with the sleeved one I got from British Car Specialist. Rich Kahn From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Aug 24 14:24:45 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:24:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: No wonder his engine overheated. Did you see the shape of the fan? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Duquette" To: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 12:19 PM Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content >I think this is the 4? Anyone? > http://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 24 14:24:47 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:24:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6A2D1B8E-BB62-43D1-B6C6-87AC105102A0@cox.net> I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it is delivered. Wilko San Diego On Aug 18, 2010, at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. > It > is located in Lenox, MA > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a > name of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 24 14:38:15 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:38:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion Message-ID: I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it is delivered. Wilko San Diego On Aug 18, 2010, at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. > It > is located in Lenox, MA From raymead at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 14:44:35 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 20:44:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion In-Reply-To: <1F852823-43BD-44BA-9A28-FBB0C6F1A0B8@cox.net> Message-ID: <407583212.522873.1282682675147.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> congrats! i notice the seller never said anything re condition..... i assume you enquired? good luck!!!! ray =========== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Cc: "healey list" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 3:57:38 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it is B delivered. Wilko San Diego On Aug 18, 2010, at 8:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > There is a Smitty conversion on Ebay, item #270623513754. B It includes > the transmission and the Smitty components at a buy it now of $750. B > It > is located in Lenox, MA > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a B > name of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation B $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins at cox.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net From edriver at sasktel.net Tue Aug 24 14:49:00 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:49:00 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C74303C.5030006@sasktel.net> Well if this is from Ottawa the problems we have are greater than I thought!!! Regards ED Robert Duquette wrote: > I think this is the 4? Anyone? > http://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Aug 24 15:07:26 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:07:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion (mail issues) In-Reply-To: <6A2D1B8E-BB62-43D1-B6C6-87AC105102A0@cox.net> References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <6A2D1B8E-BB62-43D1-B6C6-87AC105102A0@cox.net> Message-ID: <3D43E655-84CF-44EE-A881-55E1578FCB3B@cox.net> Sorry about the mail repeats. From theswed at hotmail.com Tue Aug 24 15:09:20 2010 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:09:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Running poorly/Carb Floats Message-ID: My Healey has been running poorly lately. It starts up and runs great when cold. However, after warming up, it is hard to start and stalls occasionally after I stop for a red light/sign. I also noticed fuel occasionally dripping from the overflow tube. I removed the carburetors and began to inspect them. I removed the float lid and floats. I noticed the rear float had a small amount of fuel sloshing around in it. Could this be cause of my problems? If so, should I replace both floats or just the one? Any other suggestions or things to look for? Also....not sure if this makes sense.... should I have to hold my choke on (hold the knob out) or should it stay engaged until the knob is pushed inward. Thanks. Kenny 61 BT-7 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 24 15:10:20 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:10:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: overdrive throttle switch rebuild - how to do it! References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100823204506.0205f2d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002b01cb43d0$c2cbb620$48632260$@verizon.net> Article posted this morning on the Technical page, Overdrive section. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 11:47 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] overdrive throttle switch rebuild - how to do it! Hello! I figured this out and sent an article with pictures to John Sims. I presume he will post it and let the list know when it can be viewed on his website. Cheers, John ____________________________ From edriver at sasktel.net Tue Aug 24 15:43:21 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 15:43:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] thermostat In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C743CF9.7010705@sasktel.net> Infra-red might be better then info-red the latter has all the trappings of the McCarthy era ;-) Ed Richard Kahn wrote: > Steve, consider buying an info-red thermometer at Harbor Freight for about 25 > dollars (usually they have 20% coupons) and aim it at the thermostat housing > and several areas on the bock after a 20 minute run. You might be surprised > that you are not as hot as you think. At the temps you are getting you would > loose coolant a bit. Nice thing is that you don't have to take anything apart > to test. I found a bit of a difference with the sleeved one I got from British > Car Specialist. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 24 15:53:13 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:53:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD11EDE235E170-12A8-237C@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> I can't believe anyone would put three HD8's on a 100 engine! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Sent: Tue, Aug 24, 2010 2:19 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content I think this is the 4? Anyone? ttp://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 24 15:55:13 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:55:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9AA6E6668F98481FB1D984AEC7504A1F@LIFEBOOK> No wonder he died in a car accident if his eyesight was that bad! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Duquette" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 3:19 PM To: "Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content > I think this is the 4? Anyone? > http://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Aug 24 16:06:41 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 15:06:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU floats Message-ID: I was looking at my brass floats from the HD8's on the BJ8 (relatively new craporators from Burlen) and they have so much solder tinkling inside that they have a good tilt to them when floating in a pan of water. No bubles, though. I suppose that the float chamber center rod prevents any real issues with maintaining the float level setting. Right?? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Tue Aug 24 16:10:49 2010 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:10:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter Message-ID: Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil out of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air filter and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I do seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the engine was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the oil out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next option is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the crank case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually but are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? Kindest Regards Tom 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 1960 MGA1600 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 16:19:24 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 22:19:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Smitty conversion (mail issues) In-Reply-To: <3D43E655-84CF-44EE-A881-55E1578FCB3B@cox.net> Message-ID: <1013474359.321063.1282688364426.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> No problem ... we just figured you were REALLY excited to get the stuff ... bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Sorry about the mail repeats. _______________________________________________ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 24 16:59:00 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 18:59:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Running poorly/Carb Floats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <80573273E6CD4114B1EF484C25C54649@LIFEBOOK> Kenny, A leaking float is absolutely your problem. It sinks lower in the float chamber allowing more fuel to enter and is flooding your engine. make sure it's only the one that's leaking and repair or replace it. The original choke cable for your car had a pull out and turn clockwise to lock feature. Many of the replacement ones do not have this feature. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Kenny J" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 5:09 PM To: "Healeys Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] Running poorly/Carb Floats > My Healey has been running poorly lately. It starts up and runs great > when > cold. However, after warming up, it is hard to start and stalls > occasionally > after I stop for a red light/sign. I also noticed fuel occasionally > dripping > from the overflow tube. > > I removed the carburetors and began to inspect them. I removed the float > lid > and floats. I noticed the rear float had a small amount of fuel sloshing > around in it. Could this be cause of my problems? If so, should I > replace > both floats or just the one? Any other suggestions or things to look for? > > Also....not sure if this makes sense.... should I have to hold my choke on > (hold the knob out) or should it stay engaged until the knob is pushed > inward. > Thanks. > > Kenny > > 61 BT-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 24 17:26:09 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 16:26:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22B1EBCF-23A6-4985-9068-B4BDAE1D536B@sbcglobal.net> The rocker arm assembly is worn out. If you remove the valve cover and start the engine you should only get a small amount of oil coming out the top of the rockers. Yours will be gushing out. This is a common problem on the 6 cylinder Healey's. We have these units available rebuilt on an exchange basis. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 24, 2010, at 3:10 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote: > Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting > excess oil out > of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and > the oil > pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the > air filter > and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, > but I do > seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. > > I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that > the engine > was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking > the oil > out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the > next option > is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where > the crank > case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? > > My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out > eventually but > are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > > 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 > 1960 MGA1600 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From grabow.bernie at gmail.com Tue Aug 24 17:39:57 2010 From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:39:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, Check the T fitting on the top of your valve cover. If it is screwed in too far it can create the problem you are experiencing. Screw it out a few turns and see if that helps. Could be a really cheap fix. Bernie On 8/24/10, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote: > Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil > out > of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil > pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air > filter > and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I do > seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. > > I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the > engine > was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the oil > out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next > option > is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the > crank > case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? > > My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually > but > are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > > 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 > 1960 MGA1600 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/meemeb at aol.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 24 17:46:59 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:46:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1336166726.325818.1282693619106.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Tom, Excess pressure in crankcase could be the problem or, possibly, you have too much oil being squirted around inside the valve cover, causing the oil to be sucked into the rear carb. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil out of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air filter and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I do seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the engine was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the oil out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next option is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the crank case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually but are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? Kindest Regards Tom 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 1960 MGA1600 _______________________________________________ From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Aug 24 18:09:53 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:09:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Remove the valve cover and watch the dripping of the oil from the rocker arms with theengine on. It sh;ould only drip. If you are geting more than just drops, you need the rocker assembly re-built. This excess is being sucked into the rear carb via the hose from the T to rear carb. I've been through this as have many on this list. Rich Kahn > From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:10:49 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter > > Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil out > of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil > pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air filter > and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I do > seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. > > I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the engine > was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the oil > out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next option > is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the crank > case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? > > My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually but > are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > > 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 > 1960 MGA1600 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Aug 24 18:32:45 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 20:32:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6BA3A840D769474196365A6C8CF1F9CA@LIFEBOOK> Tom, This one's really easy. Your rocker arm bushings and shaft are badly worn causing excessive amounts of oil up in the rocker cover that can't drain down quickly enough, so the breather hose is pulling this excess oil into the rear air cleaner. Autofarm http://www.autofarm.net/autofarm/home.aspx has an excellent rebuilt exchange scheme for the entire assembly. Simply unbolt your old worn one and send it in to Autofarm. They usually have a fresh exchange assembly on the shelf that they'll send you. Install, adjust valve clearance, reinstall the rocker cover and you're away. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 6:10 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter > Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil > out > of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil > pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air > filter > and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I > do > seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. > > I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the > engine > was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the > oil > out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next > option > is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the > crank > case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? > > My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually > but > are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > > 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 > 1960 MGA1600 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 24 18:49:50 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 08:49:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] SU floats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ken - These should be ok, but i'd consider asking SU for new ones. Alan On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 6:06 AM, Freese, Ken wrote: > I was looking at my brass floats from the HD8's on the BJ8 (relatively new > craporators from Burlen) and they have so much solder tinkling inside that > they have a good tilt to them when floating in a pan of water. No bubles, > though. I suppose that the float chamber center rod prevents any real > issues > with maintaining the float level setting. Right?? > > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Tue Aug 24 20:10:39 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:10:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <595527.83660.qm@web113109.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> He must have had a 100, the black splotch is "100 Engine, oil on board". I get the same when I but a board under my 100. Don BN1 Lake Haven OZ ________________________________ From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Sent: Wed, 25 August, 2010 5:19:48 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine art - no 'real' LBC content I think this is the 4? Anyone? http://www.askart.com/askart/c/oscar_cahen/oscar_cahen.aspx _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 24 20:11:36 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 10:11:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Very far OT: Meanwhile in DHMC-shire local news Message-ID: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-coventry-warwickshire-11068063 From rdryman1 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 24 20:16:10 2010 From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:16:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: <6BA3A840D769474196365A6C8CF1F9CA@LIFEBOOK> References: <6BA3A840D769474196365A6C8CF1F9CA@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <968045.228.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Do I remember seeing something about turning the rocker shaft over 180 degrees for a quick fix. Never tried that but it sure was written in a Chatter long time ago(or something like it?) Curious~~~ ________________________________ From: Rich C To: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, August 24, 2010 8:32:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter Tom, This one's really easy. Your rocker arm bushings and shaft are badly worn causing excessive amounts of oil up in the rocker cover that can't drain down quickly enough, so the breather hose is pulling this excess oil into the rear air cleaner. From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Aug 24 20:23:12 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:23:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid Message-ID: The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan. I have heard horror stories about parts from that part of the world. Has anyone had any problems with these? I plan to carry it in the boot until the original goes bad. This could be years and I will not be able to return it if it is bad. Can the original be rebuilt and lubricated? Rich Kahn From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 24 21:05:55 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:05:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard - At the end of the day, a solenoid is a pretty simple piece of kit. There's nothing really that can go wrong if it's just sitting around. I'd cycle it a few times using some little electronic jumpers to check the operation. If it works then spray a little WD 40 inside of it, wait for the WD 40 to dry out, put it in a sealed bag and keep it in your boot. It should last forever. Alan On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 10:23 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan. I have heard horror > stories about parts from that part of the world. Has anyone had any > problems > with these? I plan to carry it in the boot until the original goes bad. > This > could be years and I will not be able to return it if it is bad. Can the > original be rebuilt and lubricated? > Rich Kahn From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 24 23:17:27 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 00:17:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C74A767.7070108@justbrits.com> << The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan. >> As a rule - YMMV, NFI, FWIW, & FYI - the majority of parts from THERE do not have problems, Richard. That said, parts from CHINA generally produce DIFFERENT results !! And as a Distributor for MANY 'suppliers' of LBC Parts, I should know !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [includes the 'found' NOS Int'cept. Tail Lite Lens ] From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Aug 25 00:50:57 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:50:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting on TV (video game) In-Reply-To: References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <1F852823-43BD-44BA-9A28-FBB0C6F1A0B8@cox.net> <7E73AC23-13A6-47C6-AD45-5EB6E8E314AE@cox.net> Message-ID: <2794A21A-581B-4919-95C6-A45177A01A32@cox.net> I think I just saw a Healey in a TV commercial for the video game "Mafia II" Wilko San Diego From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Aug 25 00:55:44 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:55:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting in video game, Link In-Reply-To: References: <4C6BFCAD.2040900@comcast.net> <1F852823-43BD-44BA-9A28-FBB0C6F1A0B8@cox.net> <7E73AC23-13A6-47C6-AD45-5EB6E8E314AE@cox.net> Message-ID: http://tinyurl.com/2egwc8z Mafia II trailer. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 06:45:27 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 08:45:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid In-Reply-To: <4C74A767.7070108@justbrits.com> References: <4C74A767.7070108@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <006001cb4453$651bb4c0$2f531e40$@verizon.net> I did a Google search on YMMV and got the following: # Welcome to YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and ... YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and services in Canada. Cities include Edmonton, Calgary, Vancouver, Toronto and much more! List your parlor in our online ... www.ymmv.ca - Cached Ed, are you trying to tell us something??? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 1:17 AM Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] solenoid << The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan. >> As a rule - YMMV, NFI, FWIW, & FYI - the majority of parts from THERE do not have problems, Richard. That said, parts from CHINA generally produce DIFFERENT results !! And as a Distributor for MANY 'suppliers' of LBC Parts, I should know !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [includes the 'found' NOS Int'cept. Tail Lite Lens ] From robertlarson at att.net Wed Aug 25 07:36:31 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 09:36:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid In-Reply-To: <006001cb4453$651bb4c0$2f531e40$@verizon.net> References: <4C74A767.7070108@justbrits.com> <006001cb4453$651bb4c0$2f531e40$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4C751C5F.60207@att.net> Very nice John! Is is safe to assume then that there are not any significant differences between the Chinese and Taiwanese models? Some minor variations would be expected between individual pieces. Bob On 8/25/2010 8:45 AM, John Sims wrote: > I did a Google search on YMMV and got the following: > > # > Welcome to YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and ... > YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and services in Canada. Cities > include Edmonton, Calgary, Vancouver, Toronto and much more! List your > parlor in our online ... > www.ymmv.ca - Cached > > Ed, are you trying to tell us something??? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " > Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 1:17 AM > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] solenoid > > << The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan.>> > > As a rule - YMMV, NFI, FWIW,& FYI - the majority of parts from THERE do not > have problems, Richard. > > That said, parts from CHINA generally produce DIFFERENT results !! > > And as a Distributor for MANY 'suppliers' of LBC Parts, I should know > !!! > > Ed > Please visit MY site at: > www.justbrits.com > [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE > soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [includes the 'found' NOS Int'cept. Tail Lite > Lens ] From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 25 09:24:56 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:24:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: <000301cb43a2$16861500$43923f00$@rr.com> <1934203108.301210.1282668011506.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <000d01cb43b2$2ee60fa0$8cb22ee0$@rr.com> <002001cb43c5$1245be50$36d13af0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <000a01cb4469$acdc3a80$0694af80$@rr.com> Alan, I did not buy a sleeved thermostat from British Car Specialists. I called to order, but learned that the only one they have is rated at 160 deg. Same with Moss. My experience with a 160 non-sleeved thermostat was that it did nothing to control the heat in the summer, but did make my car run too cold in winter. I wanted a 180-deg. sleeved thermostat, but the one I did buy was a NOS AC Delco 187-deg. unit made in England, still in its original box. I agree that the purpose of a thermostat is not to make a car run cooler, but to make the engine get up to operating temperature faster. However, the thermostat won't make the coolant run at the same temperature regardless of how hot it is outside unless the cooling system has sufficient capacity. It can only respond to the temperature of the coolant passing over it, and that is determined by the design and capacity of the system, the velocity of coolant flow and air flow through the radiator, and the difference in temperature between the coolant and ambient air. As I understand the "sleeve" concept, it only comes into play when the engine warms up to temperature, and then prevents part of the coolant from bypassing the radiator. If part of the coolant was bypassing the radiator before, and now it doesn't, I don't see why there wasn't some discernible difference after I installed the sleeved unit. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 8:57 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? Steve - The thermostat that David Nock sells is not really intended to "run your car cooler" per se, it is meant more to keep your car's temperature more constant through the operating range - i.e. it heats up the engine faster when cold, but then keeps it at the same temp regardless of how hot it is outside. I have found the sleeved thermostat has helped immensely in this regard, and does help keep my car cool on hot days. That being said the condition of the radiator and scale in the engine block will be more important than the thermostat in keeping the engine temp consistent and within designed heat range. One advantage of the sleeved thermostat is the opening is a bit larger, allowing for a more free flow of fluid when open. The older style Smiths bellows thermostat is more restrictive on water flow, plus if it fails it fails shut so I'm not really a fan of them, but I still use them from time to time. Good Luck, Alan From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 09:48:29 2010 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 08:48:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] solenoid In-Reply-To: <4C751C5F.60207@att.net> References: <4C74A767.7070108@justbrits.com> <006001cb4453$651bb4c0$2f531e40$@verizon.net> <4C751C5F.60207@att.net> Message-ID: Bob, You really have to be careful with the Chinese ones. The quality control can be horrible! Sometimes you get a whole batch of them that are useless. Jody On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 6:36 AM, Bob wrote: > Very nice John! > > Is is safe to assume then that there are not any significant differences > between the Chinese and Taiwanese models? Some minor variations would be > expected between individual pieces. > > Bob > > On 8/25/2010 8:45 AM, John Sims wrote: >> >> I did a Google search on YMMV and got the following: >> >> # >> Welcome to YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and ... >> YMMV the online directory for massage parlors and services in Canada. >> Cities >> include Edmonton, Calgary, Vancouver, Toronto and much more! List your >> parlor in our online ... >> www.ymmv.ca - Cached >> >> Ed, are you trying to tell us something??? >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " >> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 1:17 AM >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] solenoid >> >> << The solenoid I ordered from Moss is made in Taiwan.>> >> >> As a rule - YMMV, NFI, FWIW,& FYI - the majority of parts from THERE do >> not >> have problems, Richard. >> >> That said, parts from CHINA generally produce DIFFERENT results !! >> >> And as a Distributor for MANY 'suppliers' of LBC Parts, I should >> know >> !!! >> >> Ed >> Please visit MY site at: >> www.justbrits.com >> [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE >> soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [includes the 'found' NOS Int'cept. Tail Lite >> Lens ] > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 12:50:00 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 11:50:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat? Message-ID: <386427.17516.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I recently emailed the list a report on the results of my efforts to reduce the operating temperature of my 3000 MkII BN7. One thing I left out was the use of a Stant Small Block Chevy 185 degree thermostat. As I reported my engine temperature never exceeded 190 degrees at speeds in excess of 65 mph for prolonged periods of time and during city driving with ambient temperatures in excess of 85 degrees. Many of our club members use Stant Thermostats and don't have overheating problems. I've never tried a sleeved Thermostat so I don't know what effect that would have on the operating temperature. Ron Mitchell From medlabinc at msn.com Wed Aug 25 13:31:16 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:31:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostat? Message-ID: I suppose as a test the thermostat could come out altogether. Run the car. If the temp is going up still you would know the cause has nothing to do with the thermostat. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat? Alan, I did not buy a sleeved thermostat from British Car Specialists. I called to order, but learned that the only one they have is rated at 160 deg. Same with Moss. My experience with a 160 non-sleeved thermostat was that it did nothing to control the heat in the summer, but did make my car run too cold in winter. I wanted a 180-deg. sleeved thermostat, but the one I did buy was a NOS AC Delco 187-deg. unit made in England, still in its original box. I agree that the purpose of a thermostat is not to make a car run cooler, but to make the engine get up to operating temperature faster. However, the thermostat won't make the coolant run at the same temperature regardless of how hot it is outside unless the cooling system has sufficient capacity. It can only respond to the temperature of the coolant passing over it, and that is determined by the design and capacity of the system, the velocity of coolant flow and air flow through the radiator, and the difference in temperature between the coolant and ambient air. As I understand the "sleeve" concept, it only comes into play when the engine warms up to temperature, and then prevents part of the coolant from bypassing the radiator. If part of the coolant was bypassing the radiator before, and now it doesn't, I don't see why there wasn't some discernible difference after I installed the sleeved unit. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From Editorgary at aol.com Wed Aug 25 14:14:35 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 16:14:35 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Solenoids and other new parts Message-ID: <92489.1254524e.39a6d3ab@aol.com> In a message dated 8/25/10 11:22:31 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Richard - > > At the end of the day, a solenoid is a pretty simple piece of kit. > There's > nothing really that can go wrong if it's just sitting around. > > I'd cycle it a few times using some little electronic jumpers to check the > operation. If it works then spray a little WD 40 inside of it, wait for > the > WD 40 to dry out, put it in a sealed bag and keep it in your boot. It > should last forever. > > Alan > I'll pass on some advice I once received from a practical sort of a guy regarding carrying new parts as spares: If you're sure that your old part is still functional, remove it and replace it with the new part. Drive the car to make sure that the new part is also functional -- worst thing in the world is to discover on the side of the road that that shiny new part in your kit is either not functional or isn't the correct part -- and then you can put either one back into your on-board spare parts kit. (If the part isn't "original spec" I just leave the new part on, figuring it will outlast the old one, but I carry the old one, since I know it fits and will get me home). BTW (by the way), YMMV means "your mileage may vary" or, in other words, your guess is as good as mine. But in that Canadian context, would it mean "Your massage may vary"? I didn't even know that Canadians knew about massages. Cheers Gary From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 25 14:44:39 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:44:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Solenoids and other new parts In-Reply-To: <92489.1254524e.39a6d3ab@aol.com> References: <92489.1254524e.39a6d3ab@aol.com> Message-ID: I always thought that it meant along the lines of: 'You may get different results than I did, due to variables in your situation compared to mine.' Massage? Seems this one varied: http://cubanamericanpundits.blogspot.com/2006/01/oh-canada.html ( It's work and family safe. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > BTW (by the way), YMMV means "your mileage may vary" or, in other words, > your guess is as good as mine. But in that Canadian context, would it mean > "Your massage may vary"? I didn't even know that Canadians knew about > massages. > > Cheers > Gary From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 25 14:50:38 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 15:50:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Solenoids and other new parts In-Reply-To: <92489.1254524e.39a6d3ab@aol.com> References: <92489.1254524e.39a6d3ab@aol.com> Message-ID: <001701cb4497$2c3ac2b0$84b04810$@net> Gary, I understand that just those French Canadians know of those things. Ron BTW (by the way), YMMV means "your mileage may vary" or, in other words, your guess is as good as mine. But in that Canadian context, would it mean "Your massage may vary"? I didn't even know that Canadians knew about massages. Cheers Gary From warthodson at aol.com Wed Aug 25 14:53:43 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 16:53:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostat? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD12AEBD335340-16DC-4CEB@webmail-d079.sysops.aol.com> Another approach. Purchase and install a brass blanking sleeve, intended to permanently block off the bypass port in the head & install a modern fail safe (fails open) thermostat, sold at most auto parts stores.The blanking sleeve is available from several suppliers. I think I got one from Moss. As an experiment, install only the sleeve (no t'stat) & see if your car runs any cooler. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson To: AustinHealey List Sent: Wed, Aug 25, 2010 2:31 pm Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostat? I suppose as a test the thermostat could come out altogether. Run the car. f the temp is going up still you would know the cause has nothing to do with he thermostat. Dick Matson / Bj8 From gbrierton at hotmail.com Wed Aug 25 15:00:02 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:00:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old age Message-ID: Today I started to tell a new acquaintance that he should "get on the Healey list" when I realized that I have forgotten how that's done! Can someone please remind me of the procedure? without flames,please? GaryB From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Aug 25 15:15:52 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:15:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: <968045.228.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: , <6BA3A840D769474196365A6C8CF1F9CA@LIFEBOOK>, <968045.228.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You cannot rotate the rocker shaft 180 degrees. There is a special bolt that goes through the banjo on the oil feed line and down into a hole in the shaft. This is how the oil gets into the shaft that feeds the rockers. You cannot change the rotation of the shaft without welding up the hole on the one side and drilling a hew hole in the other. Just get a new shaft and re-bush the rockers. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 19:16:10 -0700 > From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com > To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter > > Do I remember seeing something about turning the rocker shaft over 180 degrees > for a quick fix. Never tried that but it sure was written in a Chatter long time > ago(or something like it?) > Curious~~~ > > > > ________________________________ > From: Rich C > To: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd ; > healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, August 24, 2010 8:32:45 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter > > Tom, > > This one's really easy. Your rocker arm bushings and shaft are badly worn > causing excessive amounts of oil up in the rocker cover that can't drain down > quickly enough, so the breather hose is pulling this excess oil into the rear > air cleaner. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Wed Aug 25 15:19:58 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:19:58 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Solenoids and other new parts Message-ID: <1138ae.41694fd3.39a6e2fe@aol.com> I may of missed this part of the thread but here is my question - I need to buy a overdrive solenoid this week, where do I go to get a good one? The one in my BN4 finally gave up after only 53 years. Thanks, Jim Werner In a message dated 8/25/2010 5:01:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, robertduquette at sympatico.ca writes: I always thought that it meant along the lines of: 'You may get different results than I did, due to variables in your situation compared to mine.' Massage? Seems this one varied: http://cubanamericanpundits.blogspot.com/2006/01/oh-canada.html ( It's work and family safe. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > > BTW (by the way), YMMV means "your mileage may vary" or, in other words, > your guess is as good as mine. But in that Canadian context, would it mean > "Your massage may vary"? I didn't even know that Canadians knew about > massages. > > Cheers > Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv at aol.com From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Aug 25 15:24:20 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:24:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Smiths Silver-Faced Ammeter Message-ID: <20100825.142505.956.167378@mailpop05.dca.untd.com> >From the shameless car parts division, for your consideration is an excellent, silver-faced, +/- 30 Smiths amp meter. It is complete with mounting bracket (with light), mounted in a near perfect under dash holder. This is a full faced meter, without the top shade. Ready to install. It has the later style bezel. If interested please contact me off the list. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ $350,000 Life Insurance Coverage as low as $13.04/month. Free, No Obligation Quotes. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c758a4da1e492c5d4ast06duc From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Aug 25 15:27:01 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:27:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old age Message-ID: <20100825.142726.1057.228350@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> You are in for an ED tongue lashing!! Check the bottom of your post, but I know ED can explain in far better and more colourful terms!!!! Doug > Today I started to tell a new acquaintance that he should "get on the > Healey > list" when I realized that I have forgotten how that's done! Can > someone > please remind me of the procedure? without flames,please? > GaryB > _______________________________________________ > ____________________________________________________________ $350,000 Life Insurance Coverage as low as $13.04/month. Free, No Obligation Quotes. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c758ad4929e4848ea3st04duc From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 25 15:28:47 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:28:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] old age In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: gbrierton at hotmail.com > > Today I started to tell a new acquaintance that he should "get on the Healey > list" when I realized that I have forgotten how that's done! Can someone > please remind me of the procedure? without flames,please? > GaryB > _______________________________________________ From gbrierton at hotmail.com Wed Aug 25 15:35:50 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:35:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old age Message-ID: Thank you all. I knew it was simple. GaryB From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Wed Aug 25 15:49:36 2010 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 22:49:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: <22B1EBCF-23A6-4985-9068-B4BDAE1D536B@sbcglobal.net> References: <22B1EBCF-23A6-4985-9068-B4BDAE1D536B@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Thanks David, I guess I will pull the rocker cover this weekend and have a look. I'm in the UK and may have to find a source of a complete replacement unit this side of the pond or locate a new rocker shaft and bushes and rebuild the old one. Thanks again to everyone who responded and for the input from the list. Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay - Director Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 ----- Original Message ----- From: David Nock To: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 12:26 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter The rocker arm assembly is worn out. If you remove the valve cover and start the engine you should only get a small amount of oil coming out the top of the rockers. Yours will be gushing out. This is a common problem on the 6 cylinder Healey's. We have these units available rebuilt on an exchange basis. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 24, 2010, at 3:10 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote: Hi guys, I have an interesting issue where I seem to be venting excess oil out of the rear carb air filter on my BJ8. The engine runs great and the oil pressure is good but I seem to have excess oil dripping out of the air filter and down onto the exhaust system. The oil levels are also correct, but I do seem to use or loose about half a pint on a 200 mile trip. I thought that perhaps that the air filter needed cleaning and that the engine was breathing more out of the crank case than it should and sucking the oil out. I've cleaned the filters but the problem remains. I think the next option is to do a compression check to see if I have a ring problem where the crank case is being pressurised or perhaps valve stem seals? My gut feeling is that I'm going to have to pull the engine out eventually but are there any other thoughts before I have to go this far? Kindest Regards Tom 1965 AH3000 MkIII BJ8 1960 MGA1600 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 25 16:19:29 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:19:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats Message-ID: <00b201cb44a3$96532320$c2f96960$@verizon.net> In view of the dialogue on Thermostats, Simon Lachlan has given me a PDF which everyone with a thermostat question should read. It is on my site in the Engine section of the Technical page. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Wed Aug 25 16:25:08 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:25:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Very far OT: Meanwhile in DHMC-shire local news In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Isn't anyone sorry they get caught...oops, I mean after they get caught... uhhh, that's not it. Sorry they did ...uhhh. This isn't working out... Bob Johnson BJ8 On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-coventry-warwickshire-11068063 From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 17:17:40 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 16:17:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Running poorly/Carb Floats In-Reply-To: <80573273E6CD4114B1EF484C25C54649@LIFEBOOK> References: <80573273E6CD4114B1EF484C25C54649@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <17596.74213.qm@web83915.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've chasing the same problem, my BT7 runs okay but is hard to start after a short warm up. I was sure it was electrical, but have not been able to solve the problem. After reading Rich's response I removed the floats today and sure enough the center carb float has gas sloshing around inside. I ordered a new float today, along with a spare. I expect to be running again soon with no problems. Thanks to Rich and Kenny for solving this problem. Bob ________________________________ Kenny, A leaking float is absolutely your problem. It sinks lower in the float chamber allowing more fuel to enter and is flooding your engine. make sure it's only the one that's leaking and repair or replace it. The original choke cable for your car had a pull out and turn clockwise to lock feature. Many of the replacement ones do not have this feature. Rich > My Healey has been running poorly lately. It starts up and runs great when > cold. However, after warming up, it is hard to start and stalls occasionally > after I stop for a red light/sign. I also noticed fuel occasionally dripping > from the overflow tube. > > I removed the carburetors and began to inspect them. I removed the float lid > and floats. I noticed the rear float had a small amount of fuel sloshing > around in it. Could this be cause of my problems? If so, should I replace > both floats or just the one? Any other suggestions or things to look for? From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 17:48:39 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 16:48:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter In-Reply-To: References: , <6BA3A840D769474196365A6C8CF1F9CA@LIFEBOOK>, <968045.228.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <619740.26350.qm@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just go to this URL and read the instructions on turning the shaft 180 degrees. Do this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any failures. I'm just the messenger. He did it and it apparently works. http://www.carolinahealeys.com/Technical/Engine/i%20turned%20the%20shaft.htm Ron Mitchell ________________________________ From: richard mayor To: rdryman1 at yahoo.com; richchrysler at quickclic.net; enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk; healeys Sent: Wed, August 25, 2010 5:15:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Venting oil through rear air filter You cannot rotate the rocker shaft 180 degrees. There is a special bolt that goes through the banjo on the oil feed line and down into a hole in the shaft. This is how the oil gets into the shaft that feeds the rockers. You cannot change the rotation of the shaft without welding up the hole on the one side and drilling a hew hole in the other. Just get a new shaft and re-bush the rockers. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 18:34:46 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:34:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats Message-ID: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> A thermostat is to assist in warm up as well as to control coolant flow to the rad If this controller restriction did not exist the coolant would flow rapidly to rad causing your car o over heat. the radiator requires time o cool your coolant. the thermostat controls the coolant flow. If a car is overheating check the exhaust for any restrictions and check the cam shaft if worn this can lead to overheating. Another area to check is the pitch of the fan blade, this can cause overheating if too shallow not allowing enough volume of air to be pulled through the rad. Re stricter plates are used in race cars travelling at high speeds. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 25 20:23:34 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 22:23:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a701cb44c5$af694930$0e3bdb90$@rr.com> "If this controller restriction did not exist the coolant would flow rapidly to rad causing your car o over heat. the radiator requires time o cool your coolant." Marty, I think what you intended to say was if the thermostat was not there then the coolant would flow too rapidly through the radiator to be cooled and the car would overheat (correct me if I'm misinterpreting your statement). Then why does the BMC parts manual for the BJ7 and BJ8 (page MA8) identify a blanking sleeve only in lieu of a thermostat as an option for cars going to extremely hot climates? I respectfully have to disagree with you. It has been a long time since I took Thermodynamics 301 and 302 in college, but as I recall the cooling ability of a closed system depends on the coolant flow rate, the cooling air flow rate, and the difference in temperature between the coolant and the ambient air. The greater the flow rate of either coolant or air, the higher the heat transfer rate and the better the cooling. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Martin Jansen Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats A thermostat is to assist in warm up as well as to control coolant flow to the rad If this controller restriction did not exist the coolant would flow rapidly to rad causing your car o over heat. the radiator requires time o cool your coolant. the thermostat controls the coolant flow. If a car is overheating check the exhaust for any restrictions and check the cam shaft if worn this can lead to overheating. Another area to check is the pitch of the fan blade, this can cause overheating if too shallow not allowing enough volume of air to be pulled through the rad. Re stricter plates are used in race cars travelling at high speeds. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From eschulz at frontiernet.net Wed Aug 25 21:33:00 2010 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 23:33:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats References: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <00a701cb44c5$af694930$0e3bdb90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5D1FB1A9F18344E1B5C99E792844571E@655vb01> Steve, You are absolutely correct! The rate of heat transfer is determined by the resistance of the boundary layers of the coolant and the air. The greater the velocity of coolant through the radiator and the velocity of air, the thinner the boundary layer and therefore the less resistance to heat transfer. Elton ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:23 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats > "If this controller restriction did not exist the coolant would flow > rapidly to rad causing your car o over heat. the radiator requires time o > cool > your coolant." > > Marty, I think what you intended to say was if the thermostat was not > there > then the coolant would flow too rapidly through the radiator to be cooled > and the car would overheat (correct me if I'm misinterpreting your > statement). Then why does the BMC parts manual for the BJ7 and BJ8 (page > MA8) identify a blanking sleeve only in lieu of a thermostat as an option > for cars going to extremely hot climates? > > I respectfully have to disagree with you. It has been a long time since I > took Thermodynamics 301 and 302 in college, but as I recall the cooling > ability of a closed system depends on the coolant flow rate, the cooling > air > flow rate, and the difference in temperature between the coolant and the > ambient air. The greater the flow rate of either coolant or air, the > higher > the heat transfer rate and the better the cooling. > > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Martin Jansen > Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:35 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats > > A thermostat is to assist in warm up as well as to control coolant flow to > the > rad If this controller restriction did not exist the coolant would flow > rapidly to rad causing your car o over heat. the radiator requires time o > cool > your coolant. > the thermostat controls the coolant flow. > If a car is overheating check the exhaust for any restrictions and check > the > cam shaft if worn this can lead to overheating. Another area to check is > the > pitch of the fan blade, this can cause overheating if too shallow not > allowing > enough volume of air to be pulled through the rad. > Re stricter plates are used in race cars travelling at high speeds. > > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Wed Aug 25 21:46:32 2010 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:46:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats Message-ID: <629999.63677.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Yes Steve the controller valve I am speaking about is the thermostat. The engine is a constantly heating the coolant and the radiator does require time to cool . I have used this principle successfully for many years. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Aug 25 22:49:35 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:49:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <629999.63677.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <629999.63677.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <13BCE382B1724362915122255301A494@LeonardPCPC> This thread is beginning to sound like the old conundrum - will you get wetter in the rain if you run or walk? (It is better to run in the rain instead of walk. Confirmed. Myth Busters, Episode 38). (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin Jansen" To: ; "BJ8 Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 8:46 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats > Yes Steve the controller valve I am speaking about is the thermostat. > The engine is a constantly heating the coolant and the radiator does > require > time to cool . I have used this principle successfully for many years. > > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 25 23:07:02 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 01:07:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <5D1FB1A9F18344E1B5C99E792844571E@655vb01> References: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <00a701cb44c5$af694930$0e3bdb90$@rr.com> <5D1FB1A9F18344E1B5C99E792844571E@655vb01> Message-ID: <00dd01cb44dc$85917f30$90b47d90$@rr.com> Yeah, I knew there was a reason for it. It's all coming back to me now.... Thanks, Elton Steve -----Original Message----- From: Elton Schulz [mailto:eschulz at frontiernet.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 11:33 PM To: BJ8 Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats Steve, You are absolutely correct! The rate of heat transfer is determined by the resistance of the boundary layers of the coolant and the air. The greater the velocity of coolant through the radiator and the velocity of air, the thinner the boundary layer and therefore the less resistance to heat transfer. Elton From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Thu Aug 26 05:44:30 2010 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 07:44:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Message-ID: Disregarding the thermodynamics theories, if the coolant needs to stay in the radiator longer to "get cool" , and this is a series circulation system, then aren't you also keeping the water in the block longer to "get hot" ? ;^) Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin Jansen" To: ; "BJ8 Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostats > Yes Steve the controller valve I am speaking about is the thermostat. > The engine is a constantly heating the coolant and the radiator does > require > time to cool . I have used this principle successfully for many years. > > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton at embarqmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Thu Aug 26 08:14:30 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 10:14:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD13402210A212-23F0-E4FC@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Yes, the water will get hotter the longer it stays in the block & the water will get cooler the longer it stays in the radiator, therefore obviously optimum heat transfer is more complicated that just faster flow vs slower flow. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dallas Congleton To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Aug 26, 2010 6:44 am Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Disregarding the thermodynamics theories, if the coolant needs to stay in the radiator longer to "get cool" , and this is a series circulation system, then aren't you also keeping the water in the block longer to "get hot" ? ;^) Dallas From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Thu Aug 26 09:12:11 2010 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 08:12:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostats References: <514587.46650.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <00a701cb44c5$af694930$0e3bdb90$@rr.com> <5D1FB1A9F18344E1B5C99E792844571E@655vb01> <00dd01cb44dc$85917f30$90b47d90$@rr.com> Message-ID: As discussed some time ago, go to the Stewart water pump web site. As I recall the water going too fast is an old wives tail. Increasing pressure is the real effect of a restriction in the system. More pressure up to a point can increase heat transfer. Ken From pieters at pt.lu Thu Aug 26 09:59:01 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:59:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] heat and radiators Message-ID: While we seem to be on the topic of heat transfer, do any of you have experience with alloy radiators. Is there an advantage over the original? Do they cool better? Are they lighter or do they just look flash? cheers Pieter From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 10:05:36 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 16:05:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Heat management Message-ID: <1435146757.418848.1282838736787.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> As long as we're on the (neverending) topic of heat management--thermostats, etc.--has anyone done a before/after analysis of manifold/downpipe ceramic coatings (JetHoat, etc.) and the effect on engine temps? I know we've discussed it before--and there seems to be some anecdotal, positive results--but does anybody have any definitive info to add? I wrapped my downpipes, and the net result was seemingly hotter gases at the exhaust exits--I didn't actually measure the temps, but the exhaust went from hot to pistol hot--circumstantial evidence that more heat is being moved away from the engine compartment. I can't say I saw a measurable decrease in coolant temp, but unless you do before/after testing under identical ambient conditions it's going to be subjective at best. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From ei_timo415 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 26 11:01:59 2010 From: ei_timo415 at yahoo.com (Roy Bowman) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 10:01:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <1435146757.418848.1282838736787.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <506674.54478.qm@web110405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Not sure if this is "anecdotal" evidence, but JetHot-ing sure looks cool ! Roy Bowman Indianapolis, IN BJ828985 --- On Thu, 8/26/10, Bob Spidell wrote: From: Bob Spidell Subject: [Healeys] Heat management To: "healeys" Date: Thursday, August 26, 2010, 12:05 PM As long as we're on the (neverending) topic of heat management--thermostats, etc.--has anyone done a before/after analysis of manifold/downpipe ceramic coatings (JetHoat, etc.) and the effect on engine temps? I know we've discussed it before--and there seems to be some anecdotal, positive results--but does anybody have any definitive info to add? I wrapped my downpipes, and the net result was seemingly hotter gases at the exhaust exits--I didn't actually measure the temps, but the exhaust went from hot to pistol hot--circumstantial evidence that more heat is being moved away from the engine compartment. I can't say I saw a measurable decrease in coolant temp, but unless you do before/after testing under identical ambient conditions it's going to be subjective at best. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ei_timo415 at yahoo.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Thu Aug 26 11:48:52 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 10:48:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] heat and radiators In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002601cb4546$f2283660$d678a320$@ca> I have an alloy radiator in my car...... I wouldn't say that the cooling is any more efficient than a stock radiator (recored). But it does look flashy! Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 8:59 AM To: Healey List List Subject: [Healeys] heat and radiators While we seem to be on the topic of heat transfer, do any of you have experience with alloy radiators. Is there an advantage over the original? Do they cool better? Are they lighter or do they just look flash? cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From healey100m at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 11:54:29 2010 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 13:54:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <1435146757.418848.1282838736787.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1435146757.418848.1282838736787.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com> I just wrapped my downpipes with a high tech wrap in hopes of cutting down on rough idle (vapor lock or gas getting to hot???) at high outside temps and in stop & go traffic. Did you notice any difference in this area? I'm driving the BJ8 to AZ next month and will update. Randy On Aug 26, 2010, at 12:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > As long as we're on the (neverending) topic of heat management--thermostats, etc.--has anyone done a before/after analysis of manifold/downpipe ceramic coatings (JetHoat, etc.) and the effect on engine temps? I know we've discussed it before--and there seems to be some anecdotal, positive results--but does anybody have any definitive info to add? > > I wrapped my downpipes, and the net result was seemingly hotter gases at the exhaust exits--I didn't actually measure the temps, but the exhaust went from hot to pistol hot--circumstantial evidence that more heat is being moved away from the engine compartment. I can't say I saw a measurable decrease in coolant temp, but unless you do before/after testing under identical ambient conditions it's going to be subjective at best. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 12:16:50 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:16:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com> Message-ID: <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> On my latest 4K mile road trip through the Southwest I was having apparent vapor lock problems when the engine and fuel lines were heat-soaked; i.e. after driving in hot weather, shutting down then restarting after 30min or so. At startup, the engine would stumble a bit until I got moving and got some air circulating. I'm thinking maybe a ceramic coating of the manifold and downpipes might alleviate this problem. Also wondering--this is mostly a pipe dream--what coating the entire exhaust system would do. I would think at least it would lessen the heat under the driver. I haven't had this problem until the last few years, which coincides with the greater prevalence of alcohol-laced gasoline. I can't prove a correlation, but if the vapor pressure of gasahol is lower than 'real' gas then it could be the cause. We tried to find a station that pumped pure gas for comparison, but east of CA--and in most of CA--the pumps all read 'Contains Ethanol.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I just wrapped my downpipes with a high tech wrap in hopes of cutting down on rough idle (vapor lock or gas getting to hot???) at high outside temps and in stop & go traffic. Did you notice any difference in this area? I'm driving the BJ8 to AZ next month and will update. Randy On Aug 26, 2010, at 12:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > As long as we're on the (neverending) topic of heat management--thermostats, etc.--has anyone done a before/after analysis of manifold/downpipe ceramic coatings (JetHoat, etc.) and the effect on engine temps? I know we've discussed it before--and there seems to be some anecdotal, positive results--but does anybody have any definitive info to add? > > I wrapped my downpipes, and the net result was seemingly hotter gases at the exhaust exits--I didn't actually measure the temps, but the exhaust went from hot to pistol hot--circumstantial evidence that more heat is being moved away from the engine compartment. I can't say I saw a measurable decrease in coolant temp, but unless you do before/after testing under identical ambient conditions it's going to be subjective at best. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 26 12:32:01 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:32:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com> References: <1435146757.418848.1282838736787.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com> Message-ID: I replaced the header and the intake in my Midget and had them both ceramic coated. I also replaced the rest of the exhaust at the same time.http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/Intake009.jpgPrior to those changes the Midget would stumble away embarrassing from an intersection after a prolonged stop at a red light on a hot day and run rough until ( I think ) the air would start to circulate under the bonnet.Afterwards it provided a respectable exit. So, this is a fairly subjective unmeasurable result as the coating wasn't the only thing done, and obviously the exhaust had issues to begin with. My 100 doesn't have overheating issues. I was thinking that the louvered bonnet may have something to do with that.Robert DuquetteOttawa ON Canada > From: healey100m at gmail.com > Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 13:54:29 -0400 > To: bspidell at comcast.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat management > > I just wrapped my downpipes with a high tech wrap in hopes of cutting down on > rough idle (vapor lock or gas getting to hot???) at high outside temps and in > stop & go traffic. > > Did you notice any difference in this area? > > I'm driving the BJ8 to AZ next month and will update. > > Randy > > > On Aug 26, 2010, at 12:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > As long as we're on the (neverending) topic of heat management--thermostats, > etc.--has anyone done a before/after analysis of manifold/downpipe ceramic > coatings (JetHoat, etc.) and the effect on engine temps? I know we've > discussed it before--and there seems to be some anecdotal, positive > results--but does anybody have any definitive info to add? > > > > I wrapped my downpipes, and the net result was seemingly hotter gases at the > exhaust exits--I didn't actually measure the temps, but the exhaust went from > hot to pistol hot--circumstantial evidence that more heat is being moved away > from the engine compartment. I can't say I saw a measurable decrease in > coolant temp, but unless you do before/after testing under identical ambient > conditions it's going to be subjective at best. > > > > > > bs > > > > -------------------------------- > > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > _______________________________________________ From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 26 12:52:38 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:52:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com>, <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Pipe dream? :) I wondered about this also. I won't be pursuing it, but initially, after reading so much about heat in the cockpit, I had given some thought to coating the exhaust to behind the cockpit. In the RHD cars, the exhaust is under the passenger side. I'm guessing that that was by design ... though did they really design them for the UK, or for export? Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg Also wondering--this is mostly a pipe dream--what coating the entire exhaust system would do. I would think at least it would lessen the heat under the driver. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 12:55:13 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:55:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <643296601.430201.1282848913841.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Oops ... should be ' ... if the vapor pressure of gasahol is HIGHER than 'real' gas ...' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA On my latest 4K mile road trip through the Southwest I was having apparent vapor lock problems when the engine and fuel lines were heat-soaked; i.e. after driving in hot weather, shutting down then restarting after 30min or so. At startup, the engine would stumble a bit until I got moving and got some air circulating. I'm thinking maybe a ceramic coating of the manifold and downpipes might alleviate this problem. Also wondering--this is mostly a pipe dream--what coating the entire exhaust system would do. I would think at least it would lessen the heat under the driver. I haven't had this problem until the last few years, which coincides with the greater prevalence of alcohol-laced gasoline. I can't prove a correlation, but if the vapor pressure of gasahol is lower than 'real' gas then it could be the cause. We tried to find a station that pumped pure gas for comparison, but east of CA--and in most of CA--the pumps all read 'Contains Ethanol.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 26 12:55:25 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:55:25 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads Message-ID: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/10 11:34:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > While we seem to be on the topic of heat transfer, do any of you have > experience with alloy radiators. Is there an advantage over the > original? Do they cool better? Are they lighter or do they just look > flash? > cheers > Pieter > I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in thermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less efficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced weight, ally rads are preferred in racing (I have one in my MGA, but not in my Healey) and you can use a bigger core at the same or less weight then with a steel rad (the core on my race car rad is about four inches thick and bigger in area than the one in my Healey). So, no efficiency improvement, in fact less efficient, but easier to customize, bigger without increased weight, and flash.. definitely flash. G. From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 12:59:44 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:59:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2C1DE237-B8F7-4445-BA75-B0F17B5D56AB@gmail.com> <796176209.427839.1282846610885.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: As part of my resto I am having the manifolds and down pipes cetamic coated. Looks and hopefull function are desired On Aug 26, 2010 11:42 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: On my latest 4K mile road trip through the Southwest I was having apparent vapor lock problems when the engine and fuel lines were heat-soaked; i.e. after driving in hot weather, shutting down then restarting after 30min or so. At startup, the engine would stumble a bit until I got moving and got some air circulating. I'm thinking maybe a ceramic coating of the manifold and downpipes might alleviate this problem. Also wondering--this is mostly a pipe dream--what coating the entire exhaust system would do. I would think at least it would lessen the heat under the driver. I haven't had this problem until the last few years, which coincides with the greater prevalence of alcohol-laced gasoline. I can't prove a correlation, but if the vapor pressure of gasahol is lower than 'real' gas then it could be the cause. We tried to find a station that pumped pure gas for comparison, but east of CA--and in most of CA--the pumps all read 'Contains Ethanol.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I just wrapped my downpipes ... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Aug 26 13:11:16 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:11:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating Message-ID: Hello all, I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 drawbacks: - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right color.. There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as get back home. With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap. Best, Tadek From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 26 13:31:09 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:31:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> References: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> Message-ID: So, you're saying that they LOOK cooler! :) > From: Editorgary at aol.com> > > I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in > thermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less > efficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced weight, > ally rads are preferred in racing (I have one in my MGA, but not in my > Healey) and you can use a bigger core at the same or less weight then with a > steel > rad (the core on my race car rad is about four inches thick and bigger in > area than the one in my Healey). > So, no efficiency improvement, in fact less efficient, but easier to > customize, bigger without increased weight, and flash.. definitely flash. > G. From medlabinc at msn.com Thu Aug 26 13:41:40 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 12:41:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Message-ID: So . . . regarding your heating situation Steve the experiment to temporarily remove the thermostat and road test the car could tell you something about the roll your thermostat might be playing - or not playing. Perhaps you've done that - long ago already. For driving in our part of the country where it's hot sometimes I installed a BCS/Nocks flex fan. It made a difference in indicated running temps. There's some air sound from it but it lowered the max temps to 200 or less. I like it. Dick Matson / Bj8 BTW I saw several nice Austin Healeys running around the Wenatchee (WA) area over the weekend. The drivers had smiley faces. Fun to see. From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 26 13:52:12 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:52:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lancaster, PA -Cancer Benefit Car Show and Picnic Message-ID: 2nd annual Celebration for Life Picnic/ Auction/ and Car Show. Sat. Sept 25th 2010. At the Lancaster Liederkranz. Register online at www.c4life.org For more info e-mail Shawn Miller at stmiller96 at hotmail.com Benefits Cancer- related research, education and support. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 14:00:04 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:00:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <1211727420.433862.1282852734144.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1891719451.433947.1282852804816.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap." What's the reasoning here? I checked the downpipes after a year or so of running with the wrap and they seemed fine. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hello all, I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 drawbacks: - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right color.. There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as get back home. With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap. Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Aug 26 14:21:23 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 22:21:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <1891719451.433947.1282852804816.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5C1BF9B28B7F4FBE94A94261552358B4@tm> Well, possible fuel dripping from overflowing carbs on the exhaust manifold. Smelly and flammable too... It would get even more flammable if the fuel dripping soaks the heat wrap... Tadek Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 10:00 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating re: "With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap." What's the reasoning here? I checked the downpipes after a year or so of running with the wrap and they seemed fine. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hello all, I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 drawbacks: - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right color.. There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as get back home. With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap. Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ From donham1 at cox.net Thu Aug 26 14:44:30 2010 From: donham1 at cox.net (donham) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:44:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas Boiling in Carbs Message-ID: <9C346B0C0D8841C3AEF27707297E7859@DONPCXPS> A lot of great info on thermostats etc. I need suggestions on how to keep my CARBS. (BJ7) from boiling gas and causing missing and finally engine shut down until cool down. Thanks, DH From donham1 at cox.net Thu Aug 26 14:56:57 2010 From: donham1 at cox.net (donham) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:56:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: test From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Aug 26 14:58:49 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 13:58:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> References: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> Message-ID: <807426.96575.qm@web32903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm not a metalurgist and can't even spell Themo-whatever, but I do believe the stock Healey Radiator is Copper not Steel Ron Mitchell ________________________________ From: "Editorgary at aol.com" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, August 26, 2010 2:55:25 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in thermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less efficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced weight, ally rads are preferred in racing (I have one in my MGA, but not in my Healey) and you can use a bigger core at the same or less weight then with a steel rad (the core on my race car rad is about four inches thick and bigger in area than the one in my Healey). So, no efficiency improvement, in fact less efficient, but easier to customize, bigger without increased weight, and flash.. definitely flash. G. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From MBran89793 at aol.com Thu Aug 26 15:01:38 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:01:38 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Heat management Message-ID: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> Please let me know if they are able to duplicate the Healey engine paint color. TIA Marion S. Brantley In a message dated 8/26/2010 3:24:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eyera3 at gmail.com writes: As part of my resto I am having the manifolds and down pipes cetamic coated. Looks and hopefull function are desired On Aug 26, 2010 11:42 AM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: On my latest 4K mile road trip through the Southwest I was having apparent vapor lock problems when the engine and fuel lines were heat-soaked; i.e. after driving in hot weather, shutting down then restarting after 30min or so. At startup, the engine would stumble a bit until I got moving and got some air circulating. I'm thinking maybe a ceramic coating of the manifold and downpipes might alleviate this problem. Also wondering--this is mostly a pipe dream--what coating the entire exhaust system would do. I would think at least it would lessen the heat under the driver. I haven't had this problem until the last few years, which coincides with the greater prevalence of alcohol-laced gasoline. I can't prove a correlation, but if the vapor pressure of gasahol is lower than 'real' gas then it could be the cause. We tried to find a station that pumped pure gas for comparison, but east of CA--and in most of CA--the pumps all read 'Contains Ethanol.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I just wrapped my downpipes ... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Aug 26 15:15:48 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:15:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <643296601.430201.1282848913841.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <643296601.430201.1282848913841.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Man, all this heat talk... Healeys will run just fine if they are in decent tune with their heat shields in place under fairly average driving conditions. If your car is getting so hot that you're boiling gas enough to make your car not start, then your climate is just too hot, or there is some other problem. Timing and gas mixture can have a huge effect on running temps. Wilko San Diego From mdoust at allstream.net Thu Aug 26 15:22:41 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:22:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it Message-ID: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> My Bn1 runs great in all the gears will pulls away just fine. Now take on the highway toss it into overdrive put your foot into and it stumbles or stutter until you take your foot out of it. Ideas???? Cheers Mark From warthodson at aol.com Thu Aug 26 15:25:34 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:25:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> References: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD137C5A49CD5B-1E8C-E63@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com> Gary, I thought the original radiators were copper cores & fins with brass tanks, not steel. Copper is more efficient than aluminum at heat transfer. As for weight savings, I was considering an aluminum radiator for for the weight savings for my BJ8 until I ask one of the suppliers how much their aluminum radiator weighted. I don't recall the exact weights but the aluminum radiator was, much to my surprise, only about 5 Lbs. lighter than the stock radiator which was not enough savings to justify the high cost since I was not going to race the car. Gary Hodson I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in hermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less fficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced weight, lly rads are preferred in racing From scvc70 at epix.net Thu Aug 26 15:27:21 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:27:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] more heat-related -- BN1 heat shield Message-ID: <1189A2A389D84AABAE192F16BDFA09E9@computer624080> A different heat-related question: Has anyone made and installed one of the oversized BN1/BN2 heat shields designed by Norman Nock (pattern in his Tech Tips book)? We've made one out of heavy aluminum and discovered that one arm of the bellcrank lever that operates the carb linkage hits the heat shield before the lever slides all the way down the stud on the manifold. We hesitate to bend the lever. Suggestions, anyone? (I've emailed David N. directly, but didn't yet get a response.) As always, thanks! Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 15:29:17 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:29:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> Message-ID: Doubt it was going to go with silver, but a guy can ask.... Ill let you know If they can match it On Aug 26, 2010 2:01 PM, wrote: Please let me know if they are able to duplicate the Healey *engine paint color*. TIA Marion S. Brantley In a message dated 8/26/2010 3:24:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eyera3 at gmail.com writes: > > As part of my resto I am having the manifolds and down pipes cetamic coated. > Looks and hopefu... > On my latest 4K mile road trip through the Southwest I was having apparent > vapor lock problems w... > I just wrapped my downpipes ... > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > ___________... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 26 15:30:29 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:30:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> That's exactly what I did today, Dick. Around noon, I cranked up the BJ8 and let it idle in preparation for a 40-mile roundtrip for lunch with some Healey friends. The ambient temp was 86 deg. F. when we pulled out of the driveway, the gauge was showing just a hair above 190. By the time we drove a mile, the gauge said 212. It held constant at this temperature for 10 miles of driving without stopping until we got to the ferry. After a 20-minute ferry ride, we drove another 10 miles with the gauge back at 212. During the trip home with slightly cooler ambient temp, the gauge made it to 212 by the time we got to the ferry and was at 212 when we got home. I pulled the sleeved thermostat out of the car and drove without a thermostat another 10-mile round trip with 5-miles out at 55 mph without stopping, at which point I had to stop for a light and make a U-turn. The gauge registered a bit over 190 during the outbound trip, but climbed to 212 at the light and stayed there for the 5-mile trip back home. At this time, the ambient temperature was 79 deg. F. To me, this proves at least that running without a thermostat does not by itself make the car run hotter. On the contrary, I am sure that if a thermostat had been in place for the second trip, the car would have reached 212 much sooner than it did. Until I got to the light, I was sure that the gauge would stay at around 200. At home, I tested the sleeved thermostat in a pot of water on the kitchen stove, and monitored it as the water heated up. The thermostat is rated at 86 deg. C (186.7 deg. F). It began to open at 86 C and was fully open by 98 C as measured by a candy thermometer in the water, and measuring the physical dimensions as the bellows expanded and the blanking sleeve rose. It was a bit difficult to measure accurately because the thermostat visibly closed very quickly when it came out of the water. Anyone have a plain blanking plate they want to test? The next step will be to test the gauge for accuracy, as soon as I have time to pull it out. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dick Matson Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 3:42 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats So . . . regarding your heating situation Steve the experiment to temporarily remove the thermostat and road test the car could tell you something about the roll your thermostat might be playing - or not playing. Perhaps you've done that - long ago already. From gblack at hextrans.com Thu Aug 26 15:53:22 2010 From: gblack at hextrans.com (Gary Black) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:53:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator Message-ID: I am no expert in thermodynamics. However, in my BN7 race car I replaced my stock double-core radiator with an aluminum radiator from Denis Welch. Maximum temperatures were reduced by 30 degrees. The radiator is also much lighter than stock. One note of caution: the aluminum radiator cannot be easily rodded out like a steel radiator. Result is that it quickly can get plugged with junk (don't ask how I know). I run an in-line filter on the top water hose, and I clean out the filter after each race. Gary Black 1960 BN7 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 16:07:41 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 06:07:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] more heat-related -- BN1 heat shield In-Reply-To: <1189A2A389D84AABAE192F16BDFA09E9@computer624080> References: <1189A2A389D84AABAE192F16BDFA09E9@computer624080> Message-ID: To be honest I have found that putting the extreme sterling Jet Hot coat on the exhaust headers is the only way to go. It is far more effective than any heat shield because it actually reduces under bonnet temp substantially. On 8/27/10, Carr&Edwards wrote: > A different heat-related question: > > Has anyone made and installed one of the oversized BN1/BN2 heat shields > designed by Norman Nock (pattern in his Tech Tips book)? We've made one out > of heavy aluminum and discovered that one arm of the bellcrank lever that > operates the carb linkage hits the heat shield before the lever slides all > the > way down the stud on the manifold. > > We hesitate to bend the lever. Suggestions, anyone? (I've emailed David N. > directly, but didn't yet get a response.) > > As always, thanks! > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Aug 26 16:08:10 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:08:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Polarizing a generator? Message-ID: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I recently had some catastrophic events with regard to the charging system on my AH 3000 MkII BN7. I won't go into all the details but I'm now in a position that I have replaced the Battery twice in 4 weeks. Once at Conclave and once at Encounter. While in Maryland visiting my daughter I had a new voltage regulator and rebuilt generator installed only to have the battery go dead on the way home to Michigan. I had to have the car Flat Bedded home the last 365 miles (ouch). What a pain in the wallet. I have a rebuilt generator that I installed now that I am home and after installing it I went to the Internet to find out how to properly Polarize the Generator. I found the info on this Web Site http://starautoelectric.com/page25.php and followed the instructions which resulted in the Generator charging properly and finally turning out the idiot light. The generator that was installed at great expense in Maryland was faulty which resulted in the dead battery on the road. My question is this. Moss has an instructional video on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPUfQtVEJGg which tell us to Polarize the generator at the Votage regulator by touching a wire between the "A" terminal and the "F" terminal of the regulator. The Web Site above has the following warning. "Under no circumstances touch the "F" terminal or any other part of the regulator or you could damage the regulator." Who is right? I followed the instruction provided on the Web Site and the Generator works just fine. Ron Mitchell From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 26 16:08:25 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:08:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: References: <643296601.430201.1282848913841.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C76E5D9.2050400@justbrits.com> << Timing and gas mixture can have a huge effect on running temps. >> The only "unless" I could add to Rick's spot-on reply might be "if motor has NEVER been out, re-built and at that time, "boiled out" ", DH. Other wise, Rick nailed it & I would start with timing. But that's me [and my "Hortense" - BJ-7 of 30ish years]. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] [and if it doesn't sell on fleabay - goes in TRASH] From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 26 16:10:40 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:10:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads Message-ID: <15e550.e97896b.39a84060@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/10 1:58:50 PM, healeyron at yahoo.com writes: > I'm not a metalurgist and can't even spell Themo-whatever, but I do > believe the stock Healey Radiator is Copper not Steel > > Ron Mitchell > > I think you'd be right (Being a concours guy, I've never polished mine, but I have seen some bright brassy looking ones) -- and then it would have an ever greater ability to shed heat than an aluminum radiator. Details wrong, but point still stands. gary From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 26 16:19:20 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:19:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> << Ill let you know If they can match it >> Since the ONLY Engine Paint I have seen in close to 40 years IS a lite metallic paint, I doubt it, Ira !! BUT it NEVER hurts to ask !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] [and if it doesn't sell on fleabay - goes in TRASH] From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 16:27:56 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:27:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <8CD137C5A49CD5B-1E8C-E63@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com> References: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> <8CD137C5A49CD5B-1E8C-E63@webmail-d087.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary, I believe that radiator tanks and the rods are brass and the fins only are copper. Steel was used on the supports and framework. Curt On Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Gary, > I thought the original radiators were copper cores & fins with brass tanks, > not steel. Copper is more efficient than aluminum at heat transfer. As for > weight savings, > I was considering an aluminum radiator for for the weight savings for my > BJ8 > until I ask one of the suppliers how much their aluminum radiator weighted. > I > don't recall the exact weights but the aluminum radiator was, much to my > surprise, only about 5 Lbs. lighter than the stock radiator which was not > enough savings to justify the high cost since I was not going to race the > car. > Gary Hodson > > I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in > hermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less > fficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced > weight, > lly rads are preferred in racing > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Thu Aug 26 16:28:53 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:28:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Steve, Moss offers a blanking sleeve (p/n 434-135), not a blanking plate. When you removed the thermostat you also removed the sleeve thus opening up the bypass port. I think installing the sleeve (and no thermostat) might make an interesting comparison. Gary Hodson Anyone have a plain blanking plate they want to test? From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 26 16:35:28 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:35:28 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads Message-ID: <15fbb2.6c696dea.39a84630@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/10 3:30:41 PM, cnaarndt at gmail.com writes: > Gary, > > I believe that radiator tanks and the rods are brass and the fins only are > copper. Steel was used on the supports and framework. > > Curt > As I said, all I know about mine is that it's black and it's not aluminum. G. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 26 16:56:53 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 16:56:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Polarizing a generator? In-Reply-To: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Disconnect both the B-attery and F-ield wires from the generator. With a suitable jumper wire connect to the non-ground side of the battery (depending if you are + or - ground) and momentarily touch the F-ield post on the gen. Minor spark- you're done... Or use the solid brown wire on the regulator (which originates at the solenoid or "hot" side of the battery) dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:08 PM To: Austin Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Polarizing a generator? I recently had some catastrophic events with regard to the charging system on my AH 3000 MkII BN7. I won't go into all the details but I'm now in a position that I have replaced the Battery twice in 4 weeks. Once at Conclave and once at Encounter. While in Maryland visiting my daughter I had a new voltage regulator and rebuilt generator installed only to have the battery go dead on the way home to Michigan. I had to have the car Flat Bedded home the last 365 miles (ouch). What a pain in the wallet. I have a rebuilt generator that I installed now that I am home and after installing it I went to the Internet to find out how to properly Polarize the Generator. I found the info on this Web Site http://starautoelectric.com/page25.php and followed the instructions which resulted in the Generator charging properly and finally turning out the idiot light. The generator that was installed at great expense in Maryland was faulty which resulted in the dead battery on the road. My question is this. Moss has an instructional video on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPUfQtVEJGg which tell us to Polarize the generator at the Votage regulator by touching a wire between the "A" terminal and the "F" terminal of the regulator. The Web Site above has the following warning. "Under no circumstances touch the "F" terminal or any other part of the regulator or you could damage the regulator." Who is right? I followed the instruction provided on the Web Site and the Generator works just fine. Ron Mitchell _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 26 17:00:06 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:00:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gen. issue/ regul issue Message-ID: Hey Ron, sorry to hear about the issues you had. But then again you are not shy about driving your car- good for you. Good to see you at Encounter. You might already know this, but the regulators are not "plug and play" (although they do sell an already adjusted one). They need to be adjusted, or they can damage the battery. Trying to help. Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Thu Aug 26 17:03:48 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:03:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: heat and radiators Message-ID: <000801cb4572$f1254150$d36fc3f0$@net.au> -----Original Message----- From: John & Kerry Rowe [mailto:jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au] Sent: Friday, 27 August 2010 9:01 AM To: 'Pieter and Linda' Subject: RE: [Healeys] heat and radiators Hi Pieter My opinion and of some experts is that they look flash, don't transfer heat as well as copper, ,introduce more aluminium into the system and corrosion problems, and are bloody expensive Cheers John -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Friday, 27 August 2010 1:59 AM To: Healey List List Subject: [Healeys] heat and radiators While we seem to be on the topic of heat transfer, do any of you have experience with alloy radiators. Is there an advantage over the original? Do they cool better? Are they lighter or do they just look flash? cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Aug 26 17:44:46 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 16:44:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the parts lists says to look on the accessory page. Each major function has an accessory page. You will find 434-135 under MGA, Restoration Parts & Accessories > Performance & Handling > Cooling. No dimensions given. Since thermostats seem to be generally the same diameter, can we conclude that the thermostat hole and the bypass hole in the AH head are the same as the holes in the MGA head? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats > > Moss offers a blanking sleeve (p/n 434-135), not a blanking plate. > > > _______________________________________________ From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 26 18:14:05 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:14:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] overheating Message-ID: Steve, no need to remove the gauge. Just stick a thermometer in the radiator before it gets that hot or leave the cap off as it warms... the blanking sleeve and a "calibrated hole restrictor" in place of the thermostat should give the best cooling results. It sounds like this has been a long running problem. Put a bright light behind the radiator and peer through from the front. Does the light coming through seem correct or less than you would expect? Run a comb designed for radiators thorough the fins. Even small amounts of paint will cause constant overheating. dave Commercial hvac guys use a product called Nu-brite on condenser coils to clean off grease and misc. foreign matter that is sucked into the coils. ~8 bucks at supply houses. Internet? Maybe.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 26 18:19:08 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:19:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <521CB8E1558549198CF5FD4092C9521B@oscar> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <521CB8E1558549198CF5FD4092C9521B@oscar> Message-ID: <006301cb457d$77a19da0$66e4d8e0$@rr.com> Dave, I appreciate your recommendations. I've tried to test the gauge before without removing it from the dash, and I got misleading results that delayed my determination that the gauge was inaccurate for a couple years. At that time, I had had the gauge professionally rebuilt and assumed that it would have been properly calibrated, but it wasn't. I won't be satisfied with the condition of the gauge until I test the sensor directly in boiling water and it puts the needle on 212 and no higher. The only calibration points on the gauge as I see it are at 212 and 132 - 141 (?). The first is easy to achieve precisely, but the second not so easy. I've pulled and installed my radiator so many times I can do it in about 15 minutes. Last time I had it out, I blew out the fins with a compressor. Not much came out but miscellaneous bugs. The fins are fine. The interior may be plugged, but it looks O.K. as far as I can see through the filler neck, and the coolant is never discolored or has any particles in it when I drain it. It's a long-running problem only when I'm down south. When I take the car north, I have no problems with "overheating". It runs at 190 all day on the road. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 7:11 PM To: 'BJ8 Healeys' Cc: 'Austin Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Steve no need to remove the gauge. Just stick a thermometer in the radiator before it gets that hot or leave the cap off as it warms... the blanking sleeve and a "calibrated hole restrictor" in place of the thermostat should give the best cooling results. It sounds like this has been a long running problem. Put a bright light behind the radiator and peer through from the front. Does the light coming through seem correct or less than you would expect? Run a comb designed for radiators thorough the fins. Even small amounts of paint will cause constant overheating. dave Commercial hvac guys use a product called Nu-brite on condenser coils to clean off grease and misc. foreign matter that is sucked into the coils. ~8 bucks at supply houses. Internet? Maybe.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles 08/26/10 14:34:00 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 26 18:23:24 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:23:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <006401cb457e$1013ccc0$303b6640$@rr.com> A slip of the typing fingers on my part, Gary. Anyone have a blanking sleeve without thermostat they want tested? Steve From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 6:29 PM To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Steve, Moss offers a blanking sleeve (p/n 434-135), not a blanking plate. When you removed the thermostat you also removed the sleeve thus opening up the bypass port. I think installing the sleeve (and no thermostat) might make an interesting comparison. Gary Hodson Anyone have a plain blanking plate they want to test? From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Aug 26 18:28:03 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:28:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <006301cb457d$77a19da0$66e4d8e0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20100826202803.II7SK.149116.root@pamxwww01-z01> OK---just move to the North--problem solved!!:):) tom ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: ============= Dave, I appreciate your recommendations. I've tried to test the gauge before without removing it from the dash, and I got misleading results that delayed my determination that the gauge was inaccurate for a couple years. At that time, I had had the gauge professionally rebuilt and assumed that it would have been properly calibrated, but it wasn't. I won't be satisfied with the condition of the gauge until I test the sensor directly in boiling water and it puts the needle on 212 and no higher. The only calibration points on the gauge as I see it are at 212 and 132 - 141 (?). The first is easy to achieve precisely, but the second not so easy. I've pulled and installed my radiator so many times I can do it in about 15 minutes. Last time I had it out, I blew out the fins with a compressor. Not much came out but miscellaneous bugs. The fins are fine. The interior may be plugged, but it looks O.K. as far as I can see through the filler neck, and the coolant is never discolored or has any particles in it when I drain it. It's a long-running problem only when I'm down south. When I take the car north, I have no problems with "overheating". It runs at 190 all day on the road. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 7:11 PM To: 'BJ8 Healeys' Cc: 'Austin Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats Steve no need to remove the gauge. Just stick a thermometer in the radiator before it gets that hot or leave the cap off as it warms... the blanking sleeve and a "calibrated hole restrictor" in place of the thermostat should give the best cooling results. It sounds like this has been a long running problem. Put a bright light behind the radiator and peer through from the front. Does the light coming through seem correct or less than you would expect? Run a comb designed for radiators thorough the fins. Even small amounts of paint will cause constant overheating. dave Commercial hvac guys use a product called Nu-brite on condenser coils to clean off grease and misc. foreign matter that is sucked into the coils. ~8 bucks at supply houses. Internet? Maybe.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles 08/26/10 14:34:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From ah53 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 26 18:47:09 2010 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:47:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> Message-ID: <952809.48896.qm@web31505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does it feel like a slipping clutch or is the engine stumbling? Joe BN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid --- On Thu, 8/26/10, mdoust wrote: From: mdoust Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, August 26, 2010, 5:22 PM My Bn1 runs great in all the gears will pulls away just fine. Now take on the highway toss it into overdrive put your foot into and it stumbles or stutter until you take your foot out of it. Ideas???? Cheers Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 18:53:58 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:53:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> References: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> Message-ID: <4C770CA6.5010107@comcast.net> Ignition (cap, rotor, condenser, plug wires). Are you running suppression wires? bs mdoust wrote: > My Bn1 runs great in all the gears will pulls away just fine. Now take on > the highway toss it into overdrive put your foot into and it stumbles or > stutter until you take your foot out of it. Ideas???? > > > > Cheers > > > > Mark > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 26 18:55:56 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:55:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net> There's a charcoal grey color--kind of a faux cast iron--that would be a good compromise. bs Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Ill let you know If they can match it >> > > Since the ONLY Engine Paint I have seen in close to 40 years > IS a lite metallic paint, I doubt it, Ira !! > > BUT it NEVER hurts to ask !!! > > Ed > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 18:56:50 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:56:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <20100826202803.II7SK.149116.root@pamxwww01-z01> References: <006301cb457d$77a19da0$66e4d8e0$@rr.com> <20100826202803.II7SK.149116.root@pamxwww01-z01> Message-ID: Hey Im above the 44th parallel and we just had 4 90+ degree days On Aug 26, 2010 5:51 PM, "Tom Felts" wrote: OK---just move to the North--problem solved!!:):) tom ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: ============= Dave, I appreciate your recommendations. I've tried to test the gauge before without removing it fr... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/d... From edriver at sasktel.net Thu Aug 26 19:18:10 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:18:10 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <20100826202803.II7SK.149116.root@pamxwww01-z01> References: <20100826202803.II7SK.149116.root@pamxwww01-z01> Message-ID: <4C771252.7060609@sasktel.net> Hi Tom I offered him a room but he has declined ;-) Kind regards Ed Saskatoon (+31C today) Tom Felts wrote: > OK---just move to the North--problem solved!!:):) > > tom > ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: > > ============= > Dave, I appreciate your recommendations. I've tried to test the gauge > before without removing it from the dash, and I got misleading results that > delayed my determination that the gauge was inaccurate for a couple years. > At that time, I had had the gauge professionally rebuilt and assumed that it > would have been properly calibrated, but it wasn't. I won't be satisfied > with the condition of the gauge until I test the sensor directly in boiling > water and it puts the needle on 212 and no higher. The only calibration > points on the gauge as I see it are at 212 and 132 - 141 (?). The first is > easy to achieve precisely, but the second not so easy. > I've pulled and installed my radiator so many times I can do it in about 15 > minutes. Last time I had it out, I blew out the fins with a compressor. > Not much came out but miscellaneous bugs. The fins are fine. The interior > may be plugged, but it looks O.K. as far as I can see through the filler > neck, and the coolant is never discolored or has any particles in it when I > drain it. > It's a long-running problem only when I'm down south. When I take the car > north, I have no problems with "overheating". It runs at 190 all day on the > road. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC From btreen at telus.net Thu Aug 26 19:23:59 2010 From: btreen at telus.net (Bryan Treen) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:23:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] side curtain seals Message-ID: I'm trying to install new seals in my Abingdon BN4 side curtains. After soaping, oiling, silicone-lubing etc, etc, I'm stumped as to how to get them in. If I finally get the bottom seal in, then I'm left with the impossible task of getting the side seal in place. I'm ready to trim and glue. The frames don't appear to come apart, they seem to be one-piece. How can I get the f****** seals in? Bryan Treen From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 26 19:35:30 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:35:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net> References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C771662.8040203@justbrits.com> From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 26 19:37:47 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:37:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7716EB.9010002@justbrits.com> << 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the parts lists says to look on the accessory page. Each major function has an accessory page. You will find 434-135 under MGA, Restoration Parts & Accessories > Performance & Handling > Cooling. No dimensions given. Since thermostats seem to be generally the same diameter, can we conclude that the thermostat hole and the bypass hole in the AH head are the same as the holes in the MGA head? >> BRILLIANT IDEA = ask your Sales Rep.. From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Aug 26 19:48:12 2010 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:48:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <15fbb2.6c696dea.39a84630@aol.com> References: <15fbb2.6c696dea.39a84630@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD13A10AF6D48F-1674-4343@Webmail-d119.sysops.aol.com> Gary, Easy way to find out if it is steel, put a magnet to it and if it doesn't stick question solved. I too think they are brass tanks and tubes with copper fins. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Editorgary at aol.com To: cnaarndt at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Aug 26, 2010 6:35 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In a message dated 8/26/10 3:30:41 PM, cnaarndt at gmail.com writes: Gary, I believe that radiator tanks and the rods are brass and the fins only are copper. Steel was used on the supports and framework. Curt As I said, all I know about mine is that it's black and it's not aluminum. . ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 19:50:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:50:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> References: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> Message-ID: Mark - Two ideas come to mind (both fuel delivery problems): 1. You likely have a fuel delivery problem. Rust in the gas tank has probably fouled your fuel pump, causing it to pump slowly...when the car & pump is cold, it will be more efficient and pump more fuel, as the pump starts heating up (because it is struggling against the rust and crud in there) it starts losing pumping efficiency and can only pump enough fuel to keep the car running at cruise speed, if you step on the gas there's not enough gas to accelerate. To fix this you must drain the tank and clean it out, and clean out your fuel pump & replace if neccessary. 2. The BN1's fuel pump is located right above the exhaust pipe. Once you are on the freeway for a while, everything is hot, the heat from the exhaust pipe is causing some vapor lock to form in the pump which is causing a reduction in the amount of fuel being pumped and so it stumbles when you try to accelerate. To fix this you can wrap your exhaust pipe with some header tape. To check if it is either of these, when you are driving fast on a country road, step on the gas and when it starts hesitating, immediately shut off the motor and coast to a stop on the side of the road. Take off the float chambers and see if there is any fuel in the float chambers, if not then it will be one of the problems listed above. My guess is #1. Alan On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 5:22 AM, mdoust wrote: > My Bn1 runs great in all the gears will pulls away just fine. Now take on > the highway toss it into overdrive put your foot into and it stumbles or > stutter until you take your foot out of it. Ideas???? > > > > Cheers > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From mdoust at allstream.net Thu Aug 26 19:58:55 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:58:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it Message-ID: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> Yes it stumbles. No filters. cap, rotor, plug wires steel all check out. What about a problem with the overdrive putting a big time drag on the engine Mark From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Aug 26 20:02:11 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:02:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary, I think I have a different solution. I also use an aluminum radiator in my race car that I got form SC Austin-Healey over 20 years ago. (I think it is the same as the DW radiator) I have never had to clean it out, and here's why. When I build a new race motor with a new/old used block - and I have built a few - I take the block to a stripper. I am not talking about doing just a hot tank thing as many engine re-builders do. When my block comes back from the stripper there is not a speck of rust or corrosion or crud in any part of that block. The water jackets are pristine. Then, I only use distilled water and Red Line water wetter. I run 11.5:1 compression ratio. I run 36 degrees advance. I race in 90 + degree heat at tracks were I hit 130 to 140 MPH on the straights. I shift at 6000 to 6200 RPM at every gear change. During a usual 25 to 30 minute race my engine temperature never goes over 190 degrees. In the early years I used blanking plates but for the last 15 years or so I have used Stant 180 degree thermostats. I have never had a boil over where coolant went into my overflow tank - ever. I mean never. I use a 7 pound radiator cap. So what is my point? The usual Healey engine block is probably full of really bad stuff. On one engine block that I inspected many years ago, I found a large/heavy wire (also heavily rusted) in the water jackets around the cylinders. We could only surmise that it was part of the original core stabilization in the casting process. I think that most overheating problems are a result of stuff in the block - which then finds it's way into your radiator. That is why I take every block and have it chemically stripped before I do a rebuild. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: gblack at hextrans.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:53:22 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator > > I am no expert in thermodynamics. However, in my BN7 race car I replaced my > stock double-core radiator with an aluminum radiator from Denis Welch. Maximum > temperatures were reduced by 30 degrees. The radiator is also much lighter > than stock. One note of caution: the aluminum radiator cannot be easily rodded > out like a steel radiator. Result is that it quickly can get plugged with junk > (don't ask how I know). I run an in-line filter on the top water hose, and I > clean out the filter after each race. > > > Gary Black > 1960 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 20:11:39 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:11:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net> References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com> <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I don't have direct heat measurements, but on my Atlantic before I jet hot coated my manifold, I could feel the heat coming off the manifold every time I opened the bonnet. Afterwards (using their extreme sterling coating) the manifolds are almost the same temp as the rest of the motor and I no longer "feel the heat" when I open the bonnet. The difference is striking. The car runs MUCH cooler as well. No more problems with boiling fuel in the carbs. have a look: http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/1952AustinA90AtlanticSportsSaloon#5186413418446009474 It still looks the same, it does not stain. Alan On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 8:55 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > There's a charcoal grey color--kind of a faux cast iron--that would be a > good compromise. > > > bs > > > > Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > >> << Ill let you know If they can match it >> >> >> Since the ONLY Engine Paint I have seen in close to 40 years >> IS a lite metallic paint, I doubt it, Ira !! >> >> BUT it NEVER hurts to ask !!! >> >> Ed >> >> > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Aug 26 20:28:06 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 21:28:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <8CD13A10AF6D48F-1674-4343@Webmail-d119.sysops.aol.com> References: <15fbb2.6c696dea.39a84630@aol.com> <8CD13A10AF6D48F-1674-4343@Webmail-d119.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7722B6.30403@justbrits.com> I am most likely gonna HATE myself for adding to/furthering of the opening of Pandora's box, but.............. << Easy way to find out if it is steel, put a magnet to it and if it doesn't stick question solved. I too think they are brass tanks and tubes with copper fins. >> "If" the core area has the PROPER "Radiator Paint" [which really is not 'paint' as we think of paint] Larry, said magnet may have a problem latching on to "steel cores", the stuff IS "that good" a covering and heat transfer product. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] [and if it doesn't sell on fleabay - goes in TRASH] From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 20:31:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:31:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> Message-ID: OD will not put any drag on the motor. if your gearbox is low on oil, it will simply not engage. On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 9:58 AM, mdoust wrote: > Yes it stumbles. No filters. cap, rotor, plug wires steel all check out. > What about a problem with the overdrive putting a big time drag on the > engine > > > > Mark From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Aug 26 20:59:36 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:59:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <4C7722B6.30403@justbrits.com> References: <15fbb2.6c696dea.39a84630@aol.com> <8CD13A10AF6D48F-1674-4343@Webmail-d119.sysops.aol.com> <4C7722B6.30403@justbrits.com> Message-ID: ::: Sigh::: Talking about LBC radiators Radiators are not steel. Radiator cores are not steel The radiator supports are steel soldered to the rest of the unit. Radiator cores are not brass. Radiator tanks are brass or depending on the application possibly copper Radiator fins are probably copper, or possibly steel. When talking about radiators there are lots of factors to take into account. In the southwest for example we get sand and grit embedded into the cores. This blocks air flow. No air flow = poor cooling. I used to hold a radiator horizontally a foot or so over the floor and drop it to clean them when I had one out of the car. You would be amazed at the amount of dirt that comes out. And this was on modern cars where the radiator is behind the AC condenser AND the Intercooler for the turbo. Put a drop light on one side of the radiator and your eyes on the other. How clear is your view of the light bulb? Not very? Either pull it and clean it or try a high pressure hose from the back side. The fins. On old radiators the fins can come unsoldered from the tubes. If the fins aren't attached, they won't conduct heat worth a damn. You fins coming unsoldered? time for some serious radiator surgery. How many rows of tubes are there? Back in the day the hot tip was to get a re-core with a "desert cooler" This was a core with an extra row of tubes that fit where the original core went. More tubes = more surface area, car ran cooler. I suspect that this is what the deal is with alloy radiators. they probably have more tubes (like a "desert cooler") and therefore become more efficient. A re-core of a copper radiator with an equal number of tubes would be as efficient. $.02 Rick From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 26 21:08:26 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 23:08:26 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads Message-ID: <51ab.1d2bb66e.39a8862a@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/10 6:48:22 PM, bighealey3k at aim.com writes: > Gary, Easy way to find out if it is steel, put a magnet to it and if it > doesn't stick question solved. I too think they are brass tanks and > tubes with copper fins. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > Like I said: Mine is black and came original with the car. The car doesn't overheat. That's all I care about. G. From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Aug 26 21:38:43 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 23:38:43 EDT Subject: [Healeys] It's the corrosion in the block, stupid. Message-ID: <64ae.2b88d423.39a88d43@aol.com> In a message dated 8/26/10 7:37:54 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > So what is my point? The usual Healey engine block is probably full of > really > bad stuff. On one engine block that I inspected many years ago, I found a > large/heavy wire (also heavily rusted) in the water jackets around the > cylinders. We could only surmise that it was part of the original core > stabilization in the casting process. I think that most overheating > problems > are a result of stuff in the block - which then finds it's way into your > radiator. That is why I take every block and have it chemically stripped > before I do a rebuild. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > Richard, who has probably the fastest actually vintage legal Healey in the world (none of the "Healeys" racing competitively in England are vintage legal) is absolutely right on all counts. When I switched to an NOS 1622 block on my MGA, and then got the timing and mixture right, all of my overheating problems went away. Like Richard, I run a Stant thermostat, which does exactly what it's supposed to do. It helps get the engine up to temp quickly on cold, gray mornings, and then opens up and is no longer a factor. If you've cleaned the radiator, checked the thermostat for operability, and got the timing and mixture right, and it still overheats when in motion, the only thing left is the block. Gary From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Aug 26 21:45:23 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 20:45:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <4C7716EB.9010002@justbrits.com> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> <4C7716EB.9010002@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <633A9483395C4F25B6FDADB990B1FE93@LeonardPCPC> Ed: Ask my Sales Rep? What Sales Rep?? I ain't got no Sales Rep! I thought you were " every mans' " Sales Rep. If I had Sales Reps for all my parts and labor needs, I wouldn't need to be subscribed to this List. ;-) A friend of mine just had his Volvo recalled for a defect repair. I decided to call a Healey Sales Rep to see if there were any recalls on 39031. Can't get a-hold of him. What kind of Sales Rep is that? Just because they don't build the car any longer, they close up shop? Where's the factory support when you need it?? Disgraceful! ;-) ;-) Happy Funny Friday tomorrow! (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" Cc: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 6:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats > << 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the > parts lists says to look on the accessory page. Each major function has > an accessory page. You will find 434-135 under MGA, Restoration Parts & > Accessories > Performance & Handling > Cooling. No dimensions given. > Since thermostats seem to be generally the same diameter, can we conclude > that the thermostat hole and the bypass hole in the AH head are the same > as the holes in the MGA head? >> > > BRILLIANT IDEA = ask your Sales Rep.. From twillig at ruda.de Fri Aug 27 00:11:39 2010 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:11:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Tadek, my garage buddy is running his BN2-M since 15 years with heat wrap around the tubular exhaust manifold. He even went racing with it to Nuerburgring etc. He faced absolutely no issues. On the other hand, the fitting of the heatwrap stopped the random fuel evaporation on very hot days. I go for heat wrap. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. August 2010 21:11 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating Hello all, I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 drawbacks: - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right color.. There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as get back home. With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap. Best, Tadek From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Aug 27 01:14:56 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:14:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> References: <004001cb4564$d2bc40f0$7834c2d0$@net> Message-ID: Mark Is it possible that you have a fault in the overdrive solenoid that means that it continues to take high current after it has operated. This is something like 20 amps but should have dropped to around 2 or 3 amps. With such a high current together with some 'not perfect' connections in the ignition circuit and maybe a slight weakness in the ignition, the excessive current causes the voltage to the coil to drop to a point where the ignition spark is too weak to produce a reliable spark. Your symptoms are similar to ignition problems where the spark can ignite a weak mixture but not a strong one that occurs when you accelerate. Regards >My Bn1 runs great in all the gears will pulls away just fine. Now take on >the highway toss it into overdrive put your foot into and it stumbles or >stutter until you take your foot out of it. Ideas???? > -- John Harper From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 01:44:44 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:44:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've had heatwrap on my BJ8 extractors for nearly 15 years too. I painted it with white UHT paint. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html I would have liked ceramic, but you have to fit the extractors, tack weld the primaries to the secondaries, pull them off, weld them properly, refit and recheck clearances. Then you wrap them and paint - or pull them off again, send them away to get ceramic coated, wait a week or so, then finally fit. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 27/08/2010, at 4:11 PM, "Thomas Willig" wrote: > Hi Tadek, > > my garage buddy is running his BN2-M since 15 years with heat wrap > around the > tubular exhaust manifold. He even went racing with it to > Nuerburgring etc. He > faced absolutely no issues. On the other hand, the fitting of the > heatwrap > stopped the random fuel evaporation on very hot days. > > I go for heat wrap. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > > > Hello all, > > I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 > drawbacks: > - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you > may end > up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the > pipe has > nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point > where it > may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. > - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. > > Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. > Ceramic > coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the > right > color.. > > There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as > soon as > get back home. > > With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side > of the > engine I would not use heat wrap. > > Best, Tadek > ______________ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 01:47:14 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:47:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] It's the corrosion in the block, stupid. In-Reply-To: <64ae.2b88d423.39a88d43@aol.com> References: <64ae.2b88d423.39a88d43@aol.com> Message-ID: Gary > Richard, who has probably the fastest actually vintage legal Healey in the > world (none of the "Healeys" racing competitively in England are vintage > legal) > Is that really the case, I believe that the Healeys that race at places like Spa 6 Hours and Le Mans Classic etc, are all prepared to very stringent FIA regulations. I know they can run alternators but not for instance, Minilite wheels which I see on several US race cars. What are the Vintage legal rules? Are they stricter than FIA Just interested to know Derek On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 5:38 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 8/26/10 7:37:54 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > > So what is my point? The usual Healey engine block is probably full of > > really > > bad stuff. On one engine block that I inspected many years ago, I found a > > large/heavy wire (also heavily rusted) in the water jackets around the > > cylinders. We could only surmise that it was part of the original core > > stabilization in the casting process. I think that most overheating > > problems > > are a result of stuff in the block - which then finds it's way into your > > radiator. That is why I take every block and have it chemically stripped > > before I do a rebuild. > > > > Richard Mayor > > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > > Portland, Oregon > > > > Richard, who has probably the fastest actually vintage legal Healey in the > world (none of the "Healeys" racing competitively in England are vintage > legal) is absolutely right on all counts. When I switched to an NOS 1622 > block > on my MGA, and then got the timing and mixture right, all of my overheating > problems went away. Like Richard, I run a Stant thermostat, which does > exactly what it's supposed to do. It helps get the engine up to temp > quickly > on > cold, gray mornings, and then opens up and is no longer a factor. > If you've cleaned the radiator, checked the thermostat for operability, and > got the timing and mixture right, and it still overheats when in motion, > the only thing left is the block. > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 02:39:39 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:39:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tadek - Having seen the work on your BN2, I would highly recommend going with the Jet Hot coating from the US for your Exhaust Header. It will keep engine temperature down substantially, and really make the car a nice one to drive as far as you want in Europe without worrying about heat problems in the engine bay. Again, a link to the header on my Atlantic, which still looks exactly the same now as it did in the picture, even after a couple thousand miles: http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/1952AustinA90AtlanticSportsSaloon#5186413418446009474 It makes a huge difference in the amount of heat under the bonnet. Very effective: http://www.jet-hot.com/ http://www.jet-hot.com/headercoatings.html The Extreme Sterling is what you want, and it is far more durable than old fashioned ceramic coatings. It's not too expensive, the only thing is you have to remove all the studs and bolts from your header before sending it. Alan On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 3:11 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello all, > > I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 > drawbacks: > - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end > up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has > nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it > may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. > - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. > > Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic > coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right > color.. > > There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as > get back home. > > With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the > engine I would not use heat wrap. > > Best, Tadek From rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl Fri Aug 27 03:04:21 2010 From: rinussinke at kpnplanet.nl (Rinus Sinke) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:04:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Vintage legal or FIA legal Message-ID: <8A7BA94316304D1A8497D6A813196E64@PCvanSinke> > Derek and Gary, > The Healeys competing in the Six Hours, Le Mans Classic and FIA events > are strictly bounded to the things that are mentioned in the FIA > Homologation Forms 57 and 163. The "things" that are allowed are > homologated in the sixties, so we have not aluminium radiators or > electronic ignition or other modern things. If you car is not build > correct at scrutenering you are not allowed to race. The other thing is > that you can improve the car by corner weighting, building the engine and > gearbox with modern equipment, dynotesting and so on. Important to know is > that an Austin Healey on the circuit is only really fast when the driver > is very fast like Jeremy Welch or my son Jaap Sinke. > I do not know what a USA vintage legal Healey means but I think and hope > they are the same as in Europe! > My primrose yellow 1961 Austin Healey MK I car is going on the long > straights at Le Mans 160-165 miles an hour. > If you need more information please let me know. > Healey Regards > Rinus Sinke > > Rinus Sinke > Rijksweg Zuid 20 > 6031RL Nederweert > The Netherlands > 0031495632707 > 0031495585972 fax > 0031653196210 mob. > rinussinke at planet.nl > www.healeymeetslemans.nl > www.dhc.nu > www.marijkesinke.nl > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Derek Job" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 9:47 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's the corrosion in the block, stupid. > > >> Gary >> >> >>> Richard, who has probably the fastest actually vintage legal Healey in >>> the >>> world (none of the "Healeys" racing competitively in England are vintage >>> legal) >>> >> >> Is that really the case, I believe that the Healeys that race at places >> like >> Spa 6 Hours and Le Mans Classic etc, are all prepared to very stringent >> FIA >> regulations. I know they can run alternators but not for instance, >> Minilite >> wheels which I see on several US race cars. >> >> What are the Vintage legal rules? Are they stricter than FIA >> >> Just interested to know >> >> Derek From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 27 06:02:01 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:02:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] side curtain seals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6D220BBBEA6744F08AD333A9D268622D@LIFEBOOK> Bryan, Examine the rubbers and you'll see that they are shaped to lay angled to one side. This side should go inboard toward the body of the car. Starting at the front bottom corner, lay one side of the T shaped tail into the slot that is away from you in the aluminum frame. I use a bit of silicone spray to lubricate things. Now gently press the near side of the T base with a blunt flat (so it doesn't cut into the rubber) screwdriver blade to compress it into the near side slot. Gently and patiently work this near side of the T flange into the slot making sure the side away from you is first in place. Work across the bottom of the frame first. Then work the front edge flange into place in the same manner. trim the far ends to suit. Expect to be at least 10 minutes per screen rubber. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Treen" Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 9:23 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] side curtain seals > I'm trying to install new seals in my Abingdon BN4 side curtains. After > soaping, oiling, silicone-lubing etc, etc, I'm stumped as to how to get > them in. If I finally get the bottom seal in, then I'm left with the > impossible task of getting the side seal in place. I'm ready to trim and > glue. The frames don't appear to come apart, they seem to be one-piece. > How can I get the f****** seals in? > > Bryan Treen > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Aug 27 06:41:25 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 04:41:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Radiator_Tanks_material?= Message-ID: <20100827124125.1881.qmail@hoster902.com> I overhauled my radiator a few years ago and had occasion to strip the paint off the tank. It is definitely brass. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From rpmengr at bellsouth.net Fri Aug 27 06:58:31 2010 From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:58:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum rads Message-ID: <4C77B677.9040505@bellsouth.net> After having my car, 54 BN1, go to 250 degrees and blowing the hose off my water pump I looked at having my rad re-cored. I got prices from 250-350 and then found a new aluminum rad from Griffin for $500. I bit the bullet and the new rad fit right in and have never seen the temp get to 200 degrees. Bob, BN1 From warthodson at aol.com Fri Aug 27 07:36:49 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:36:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com><8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD140409211D8C-12B0-A4F7@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com> It fits in a 6 cylinder head & covers the bypass port. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett To: Healey Mail List Sent: Thu, Aug 26, 2010 6:44 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the parts lists says to look on the accessory page. Each major function has an accessory page. You will find 434-135 under MGA, Restoration Parts & Accessories > Performance & Handling > Cooling. No dimensions given. Since thermostats seem to be generally the same diameter, can we conclude that the thermostat hole and the bypass hole in the AH head are the same as the holes in the MGA head? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 27 08:02:45 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:02:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com>, , <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Oh, I don't know about that! Depends what you ask of whom ... > BUT it NEVER hurts to ask !!! > > ED From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 27 08:37:19 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:37:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com>, , <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net>, Message-ID: Nice! There is a warning about "breaking in a rebuild" for the local similar stuff. Go here:http://www.rldindustries.com/and click on the "Automotive" button.( if you're interested ). Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Bob - > > I don't have direct heat measurements, but on my Atlantic before I jet hot > coated my manifold, I could feel the heat coming off the manifold every time > I opened the bonnet. Afterwards (using their extreme sterling coating) the > manifolds are almost the same temp as the rest of the motor and I no longer > "feel the heat" when I open the bonnet. The difference is striking. The > car runs MUCH cooler as well. > > No more problems with boiling fuel in the carbs. > > have a look: > > http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/1952AustinA90AtlanticSportsSaloon#5186 413418446009474 > > It still looks the same, it does not stain. > > Alan > > On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 8:55 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > There's a charcoal grey color--kind of a faux cast iron--that would be a > > good compromise. > > > > > > bs From djg at gavinassociates.com Fri Aug 27 08:58:30 2010 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:58:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sqeaking engine sound Message-ID: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> I have a 63 BJ7. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, and not before, a squeaking sound is coming from the front of the engine. Squeak, squeak, squeak that seems to coincide with engine rotation. First I tried the messy belt dressing which didn't work. Then I tried a different fan belt with the same result. I'm wondering if it could be the bottom pulley/damper or the water pump? The pump has no discernable bearing play when wiggling the fan. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be welcome and thank you in advance. Dennis Gavin Sudbury, MA. 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 27 09:08:07 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:08:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heat management In-Reply-To: References: <15a65d.1cc803c7.39a83032@aol.com>, , , , <4C76E868.6030901@justbrits.com> <4C770D1C.70206@comcast.net>, , , Message-ID: This is just a test resend to see if the formatting holds. Nice! There is a warning about "breaking in a rebuild" for the local similar stuff. Go here: http://www.rldindustries.com/ and click on the "Automotive" button.( if you're interested ). Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg >> Bob - >> >> I don't have direct heat measurements, but on my Atlantic before I jet hot >> coated my manifold, I could feel the heat coming off the manifold every > time >> I opened the bonnet. Afterwards (using their extreme sterling coating) the >> manifolds are almost the same temp as the rest of the motor and I no longer >> "feel the heat" when I open the bonnet. The difference is striking. The >> car runs MUCH cooler as well. >> >> No more problems with boiling fuel in the carbs. >> >> have a look: >> >> > http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/1952AustinA90AtlanticSportsSaloon#5186 > 413418446009474 >> >> It still looks the same, it does not stain. >> >> Alan >> >> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 8:55 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >>> There's a charcoal grey color--kind of a faux cast iron--that would be a >>> good compromise. >>> >>> >>> bs From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 27 09:16:49 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:16:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: ... to a stripper? Novel approach! Gotta try that! ED ---------------------------------------- > From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com > - I take the block to a stripper. I am not talking about doing just a hot > tank thing as many engine re-builders do. When my block comes back from the > stripper there is not a speck of rust or corrosion or crud in any part of that > block. The water jackets are pristine. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon From jpayne at ThorCon.net Fri Aug 27 09:25:58 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:25:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I've seen many a pole dance, but never a block dance Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Duquette Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 8:17 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating ... to a stripper? Novel approach! Gotta try that! ED "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 27 09:42:12 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sqeaking engine sound In-Reply-To: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> References: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> Message-ID: <118139C8-82D3-4FC0-AEB0-B58CDB66AD44@sbcglobal.net> Remove the fan belt and then start the engine. If the noise goes away it is either the generator or water pump. If it is still there it probably is a loose crank pulley. The key ways on the pulley commonly come loose and the crank pulley will rock back and forth at idle. Usually it sounds like a rod noise. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 27, 2010, at 7:58 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > I have a 63 BJ7. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, and > not > before, a squeaking sound is coming from the front of the engine. > Squeak, > squeak, squeak that seems to coincide with engine rotation. First I > tried > the messy belt dressing which didn't work. Then I tried a different > fan belt > with the same result. I'm wondering if it could be the bottom > pulley/damper > or the water pump? The pump has no discernable bearing play when > wiggling > the fan. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be > welcome > and thank you in advance. > > > > Dennis Gavin > > Sudbury, MA. > > 63 BJ7 > > 63 E Type > > 48 Willys Jeepster > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From dan at warner-associates.com Fri Aug 27 10:33:46 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:33:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Where do you get a filter for your upper radiator hose or how can one be made up. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Black Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 4:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator I am no expert in thermodynamics. However, in my BN7 race car I replaced my stock double-core radiator with an aluminum radiator from Denis Welch. Maximum temperatures were reduced by 30 degrees. The radiator is also much lighter than stock. One note of caution: the aluminum radiator cannot be easily rodded out like a steel radiator. Result is that it quickly can get plugged with junk (don't ask how I know). I run an in-line filter on the top water hose, and I clean out the filter after each race. Gary Black 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From jeff at pellfam.com Fri Aug 27 11:32:51 2010 From: jeff at pellfam.com (Jeff Pelletier) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 13:32:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sqeaking engine sound In-Reply-To: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> References: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> Message-ID: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150534@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> How bout running it cautiously.. without the belt... that will rid out the belt and or water pump squeaks...?? Then get back to us..? Jp -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 10:59 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sqeaking engine sound I have a 63 BJ7. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, and not before, a squeaking sound is coming from the front of the engine. Squeak, squeak, squeak that seems to coincide with engine rotation. First I tried the messy belt dressing which didn't work. Then I tried a different fan belt with the same result. I'm wondering if it could be the bottom pulley/damper or the water pump? The pump has no discernable bearing play when wiggling the fan. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be welcome and thank you in advance. Dennis Gavin Sudbury, MA. 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jeff at pellfam.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3097 - Release Date: 08/27/10 02:34:00 From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 27 12:08:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 13:08:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <4C77FF25.4060202@justbrits.com> << I've seen many a pole dance, but never a block dance >> Guess yer "education" isn't "complete", Jonas !!! Just take a trip up yo Ontario and RD will give you a VERY "special" tour !!!! Anon From mdoust at allstream.net Fri Aug 27 12:34:50 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:34:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> Message-ID: <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Update Vacuum advance work but not the correct model 5-12-8 should be 7-18-12 Fuel line blew out nothing found Air leak have to check New steel wires. Still the same Mark From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 27 12:35:21 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:35:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: <4C77FF25.4060202@justbrits.com> References: , , , , , <4C77FF25.4060202@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Now, don't be getting me in trouble ... Since I'm on the spot ... a block will dance if the mounts are shot. Robert ---------------------------------------- > From: shop at justbrits.com > > << I've seen many a pole dance, but never a block dance>> > > Guess yer "education" isn't "complete", Jonas !!! > > Just take a trip up yo Ontario and RD will give you a VERY > "special" tour !!!! > > Anon > _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 27 13:05:10 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 21:05:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Rads In-Reply-To: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> References: <1514f2.3130a505.39a8129d@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C780C66.4020102@chello.nl> Aluminium has a lower heat transfer than copper, I guess about the same as brass and I never heard of steel radiators except in some old Renaults, and than only the thin steel laminates around the brass pipes. Aluminium radiators are used nowadays as they can take much higher pressures thus temperatures, which means that the engine will only boil at very high temperatures and allow the engine to run at higher temperatures causing them to be more efficient. It will also increase the cooling at moderate temperatures as there will be less local boiling due to this higher pressure, leading to a better metal to water contact. 15 psi is about the max I would go with a conventional brass rad, 25 psi or even higher is not uncommon with an aluminium rad. However you have to replace all your hoses with silicon hoses to take the pressure. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 26-8-2010 20:55, Editorgary at aol.com schreef: > In a message dated 8/26/10 11:34:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> While we seem to be on the topic of heat transfer, do any of you have >> experience with alloy radiators. Is there an advantage over the >> original? Do they cool better? Are they lighter or do they just look >> flash? >> cheers >> Pieter >> > I'll probably get corrected by some metallurgist with an advanced degree in > thermodynamics, but my understanding is that aluminum is actually less > efficient at heat transfer than steel. However, because of the reduced weight, > ally rads are preferred in racing (I have one in my MGA, but not in my > Healey) and you can use a bigger core at the same or less weight then with a > steel > rad (the core on my race car rad is about four inches thick and bigger in > area than the one in my Healey). > So, no efficiency improvement, in fact less efficient, but easier to > customize, bigger without increased weight, and flash.. definitely flash. > G. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3095 - datum van uitgifte: 08/26/10 08:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 27 13:29:01 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 21:29:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7811FD.8070104@chello.nl> These sleeved thermostats (in Smiths or AC guise) were used in various cars and tractors: Triumph, MG, London Taxi, Morris, Austin, Ferguson etc. I still have a few original NOS items available in various temperatures. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 27-8-2010 1:44, Len and/or Marge Hartnett schreef: > 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the > parts lists says to look on the accessory page. Each major function > has an accessory page. You will find 434-135 under MGA, Restoration > Parts & Accessories > Performance & Handling > Cooling. No dimensions > given. Since thermostats seem to be generally the same diameter, can > we conclude that the thermostat hole and the bypass hole in the AH > head are the same as the holes in the MGA head? > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 3:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats > > >> >> Moss offers a blanking sleeve (p/n 434-135), not a blanking plate. > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 27 13:50:54 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 21:50:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sqeaking engine sound In-Reply-To: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> References: <000001cb45f8$5305b500$f9111f00$@com> Message-ID: <4C78171E.9000308@chello.nl> Water pump/Generator/Alternator bearing? Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 27-8-2010 16:58, Dennis Gavin schreef: > I have a 63 BJ7. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, and not > before, a squeaking sound is coming from the front of the engine. Squeak, > squeak, squeak that seems to coincide with engine rotation. First I tried > the messy belt dressing which didn't work. Then I tried a different fan belt > with the same result. I'm wondering if it could be the bottom pulley/damper > or the water pump? The pump has no discernable bearing play when wiggling > the fan. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be welcome > and thank you in advance. > > > > Dennis Gavin > > Sudbury, MA. > > 63 BJ7 > > 63 E Type > > 48 Willys Jeepster > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3096 - datum van uitgifte: 08/26/10 20:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 27 14:11:21 2010 From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 13:11:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] side curtain seals In-Reply-To: <6D220BBBEA6744F08AD333A9D268622D@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <62311.45022.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com> The other way I've seen it done at least on BT7 screens is to really stretch the seals after they get started. I used a wood vice to clamp the rubber after getting the first inch or so in as Rich recommends then pulled a lot and slid the track down the rubber. Don't know if the 100 side curtain rubber is held in the same way or not. --- On Fri, 8/27/10, Rich C wrote: From: Rich C Subject: Re: [Healeys] side curtain seals To: healeys at autox.team.net, "Bryan Treen" Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 8:02 AM Bryan, Examine the rubbers and you'll see that they are shaped to lay angled to one side. This side should go inboard toward the body of the car. Starting at the front bottom corner, lay one side of the T shaped tail into the slot that is away from you in the aluminum frame. I use a bit of silicone spray to lubricate things. Now gently press the near side of the T base with a blunt flat (so it doesn't cut into the rubber) screwdriver blade to compress it into the near side slot. Gently and patiently work this near side of the T flange into the slot making sure the side away from you is first in place. Work across the bottom of the frame first. Then work the front edge flange into place in the same manner. trim the far ends to suit. Expect to be at least 10 minutes per screen rubber. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Treen" Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 9:23 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] side curtain seals > I'm trying to install new seals in my Abingdon BN4 side curtains. After soaping, oiling, silicone-lubing etc, etc, I'm stumped as to how to get them in. If I finally get the bottom seal in, then I'm left with the impossible task of getting the side seal in place. I'm ready to trim and glue. The frames don't appear to come apart, they seem to be one-piece. How can I get the f****** seals in? > > Bryan Treen > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jbrown5093 at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 14:39:13 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 13:39:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats In-Reply-To: <4C7811FD.8070104@chello.nl> References: <004401cb4565$e80164d0$b8042e70$@rr.com> <8CD13853296D6C2-2758-330A@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com> <4C7811FD.8070104@chello.nl> Message-ID: I bought one from Kees. Came in old oem box. Still a ways to go b4 zi can test it. Car is still st body shop On Aug 27, 2010 12:37 PM, "Oudesluys" wrote: These sleeved thermostats (in Smiths or AC guise) were used in various cars and tractors: Triumph, MG, London Taxi, Morris, Austin, Ferguson etc. I still have a few original NOS items available in various temperatures. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 27-8-2010 1:44, Len and/or Marge Hartnett schreef: > 434-135 is not listed under Austin-Healey. It is under MGA. And the > parts lists says to look ... > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 3:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Thermostats > > >> >> Moss offers a blanking sleeve (p/n 434-135), not a blanking plate. > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/d... From rantal243 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 27 15:31:12 2010 From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 14:31:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] intermittent OD Message-ID: <220868.56064.qm@web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for all the suggestions provided last week regarding the problem I was having with the OD on my BJ8. I've read in a few places and someone mentioned that a 1/8th inch thick rubber bumper should be located somewhere under the OD plunger that lifts the rod that activats the OD. I can't find this rubber piece in the parts manual. Is this a home made fix and if so, exactly where is this rubber piece placed and how is it secured in place? Thanks much. rich antal From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri Aug 27 15:57:08 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:57:08 EDT Subject: [Healeys] intermittent OD Message-ID: <2c215.1ac85fa9.39a98eb4@aol.com> The old timers like Malcom Terry taught us to tap the hole and run a machine screw up through the bottom to act as a stop. Worked for me! Jim Werner In a message dated 8/27/2010 5:34:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rantal243 at yahoo.com writes: Thanks for all the suggestions provided last week regarding the problem I was having with the OD on my BJ8. I've read in a few places and someone mentioned that a 1/8th inch thick rubber bumper should be located somewhere under the OD plunger that lifts the rod that activats the OD. I can't find this rubber piece in the parts manual. Is this a home made fix and if so, exactly where is this rubber piece placed and how is it secured in place? Thanks much. rich antal _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv at aol.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 16:43:35 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 06:43:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Message-ID: Follow the procedure in my previous email. Blowing out fuel lines will not do anything to fix a fuel delivery problem. On 8/28/10, mdoust wrote: > Update > > Vacuum advance work but not the correct model 5-12-8 should be 7-18-12 > Fuel line blew out nothing found > Air leak have to check > New steel wires. > > Still the same > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Aug 27 16:56:59 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:56:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7842BB.5070406@earthlink.net> Gano is one source http://autocoolantfilter.com/ Dan Stromquist wrote: > Where do you get a filter for your upper radiator hose or how can one be > made up. > Dan From fmags at cox.net Fri Aug 27 17:42:37 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:42:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch Message-ID: Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that the brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but I don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following me this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its a fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. thanks, Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Aug 27 17:59:05 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:59:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02bf01cb4643$d4cc67f0$7e6537d0$@verizon.net> Take a look at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Modifications.pdf I have a dual system -- the pressure switch works the regular brake lights and the mechanical switch works the modified reflectors and third brake light. If you wish, you can also wire the mechanical switch to work the existing brake lights. The mechanical switch is connected directly to the brake pedal. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Magnusson Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 7:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that the brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but I don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following me this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its a fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. thanks, Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From fmags at cox.net Fri Aug 27 18:10:27 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:10:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: <02bf01cb4643$d4cc67f0$7e6537d0$@verizon.net> References: <02bf01cb4643$d4cc67f0$7e6537d0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <3545000C08F54BB2AC2F2D27CD36D414@FrankPC> great idea; thanks John. Looks simple enough. Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'Frank Magnusson'" ; Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 6:59 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] brake light switch Take a look at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Modifications.pdf I have a dual system -- the pressure switch works the regular brake lights and the mechanical switch works the modified reflectors and third brake light. If you wish, you can also wire the mechanical switch to work the existing brake lights. The mechanical switch is connected directly to the brake pedal. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Magnusson Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 7:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that the brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but I don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following me this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its a fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. thanks, Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 27 18:48:34 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:48:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Message-ID: <4C785CE2.1000604@justbrits.com> Mark, WHAT pray tell............... << New steel wires. >> does THAT mean ????? Ed From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Aug 27 19:49:18 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:49:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Filters In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <844943.47611.qm@web30304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Dan; For an article about rad filters, check out http://www.austinhealeynsw.com.au/technical.html Then see the website of the company making TEFOA filters: http://franktonitto.com/tefba.php --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, :-) Murphy Lives --- On Fri, 8/27/10, Dan Stromquist wrote: << Where do you get a filter for your upper radiator hose or how can one be made up. >> From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Aug 27 20:22:44 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:22:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <4C785CE2.1000604@justbrits.com> References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net><008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> <4C785CE2.1000604@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <39454EEDDE244E5A8F67B1D0E84DB223@LIFEBOOK> I'd say he means metal strand ignition wires. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 8:48 PM Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Re: BN1 I want to drive it > Mark, WHAT pray tell............... > > << New steel wires. >> > > does THAT mean ????? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Fri Aug 27 20:29:39 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 02:29:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ray, Strippers are the metal cleaning businesses that acid dip (or whatever they call it now) car bodies and other components to remove all rust and corrosion. Any good engine builder knows where to have the proper cleaning done. The best engine rebuilders have the equipment on site to do the job. The problem is that a lot of so called "engine rebuilders" do a quick down and dirty rebuild and never have the block properly cleaned ( or stripped). BTW, there is no damage done to the engine block or cylinder head in this process. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon From: racarbon at verizon.net To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 09:44:25 -0400 HI Rich, Good post and tip. I always had the feeling that friends rebuilding their Healey engine should not have heat problems, but, they always seem to. I was told that, under present DEP regulations, the engines could not be cleaned as good and I never thought about stripping as an alternative. I am presently preparing to run a compression and leak-down test on my 100K+ 64BJ8P1 as a result of finding a vacuum flutter between 7 and 14 inches of Hg at a 900RPM idle. When preparing to readjust the valves (rebushed rockers and adjusted valves 6 months ago), I found plugs in cylinders 2 and 3 black with the rest a nice brown. Should this prove to be a blown head gasket or some other problem requiring the head to be removed, I will probably fall into the situation that "If the head needs to come off, I might as well do a ..........." and look to using the stripper in an engine rebuild. A few questions: 1. Is there any particular stripping process you prefer? 2. Do you also have the head stripped along with the block? 3. Are the cylinder liners or other retention block parts in the block or head detrimentally affected and now recommended for replacement? Thanks and all the best, Ray Carbone From mdoust at allstream.net Fri Aug 27 20:41:54 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:41:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net> <008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Message-ID: <004f01cb465a$954af670$bfe0e350$@net> Yep also had the pump all apart nothing found in the screen or pump. Wrap is next but was cool today Mark -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: August-27-10 6:44 PM To: mdoust at allstream.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it Follow the procedure in my previous email. Blowing out fuel lines will not do anything to fix a fuel delivery problem. On 8/28/10, mdoust wrote: > Update > > Vacuum advance work but not the correct model 5-12-8 should be 7-18-12 > Fuel line blew out nothing found > Air leak have to check > New steel wires. > > Still the same > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Aug 27 21:00:39 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:00:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?=243_brake_light_switch?= Message-ID: <20100828030039.7393.qmail@hoster902.com> I built an inexpensive setup that works off the pedal clevis - mounts to the heating duct. http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech&page=2 This switch comes on instantly. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 21:14:36 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:14:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank - It's a bad switch. I've replaced all of mine and they all work properly in all my cars. It helps if you drive the cars regularly. But john's solution is simple too. Alan On 8/28/10, Frank Magnusson wrote: > Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that > the > brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a > position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a > fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up > the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but > I > don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed > other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following > me > this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its > a > fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. > > thanks, > Frank Magnusson > Wichita, KS > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Aug 27 21:58:25 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:58:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net><008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Message-ID: Alan, I have great respect for your knowledge of british cars and Healeys and I sincerely mean that, but in this case I rather doubt there is a fuel delivery problem, description of the issue is the car runs and accelerates fine until you stick it in overdrive, my experience with fuel blockage from sediment is that it cuts off the fuel over a time running, particularly if running higher engine speeds, higher volumes of fuel causes the sediment to rush to a restrictive point and then you don't have enough gas. Kicking it into overdrive would not cause this problem immediately, it would more likely manifest itself at sustained high speeds in direct top than if shifting into O/D. My money is on (can't remember John Harper?) whoever stated a high solenoid draw or other issue with current draw when shifting into overdrive, causing an immediate weak spark and the symptoms described. I would put the car on jackstands, take the tunnel off and either test current draw on the solenoid when in operation, or test by manually pulling the accuating lever and see if it bogs when the electricals are not involved. Greg Lemon From shop at justbrits.com Fri Aug 27 22:17:02 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 23:17:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C788DBE.3010503@justbrits.com> Frank.... << It's a bad switch. I've replaced all of mine and they all work properly in all my cars. It helps if you drive the cars regularly. But john's solution is simple too.>> I concur with Alan 100% !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] [and if it doesn't sell on fleabay - goes in TRASH] From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Aug 27 23:27:02 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 15:27:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22B6A044-0161-4236-83F3-9618D8666BD8@gmail.com> Totally agree with Richard. My engine (block, head, sump) were all stripped by Redistrip. All welch plugs and oil gallery plugs were punched out. Oil galleries were tapped, and removeable plugs fitted. The crap in the block, looking through the welch plug holes, is pretty obvious. The first big hint is if you can't see between each bore. Ie they aren't separate - they should be, so coolant can flow around the bores. When the block returned from redistrip, the water galleries were around 2 inches deeper than when we sent it, as measured by putting a piece of wire down inside the welch plug holes, and there was a gap between the bores, and the water gallery was all fresh shiny cast iron. The redistrip process only removes the crap, and doesn't remove metal. I also painted the inside of the block (inside the tapper covers, inside the timing chain area, and entire underside where oil runs) with red metal primer. All my panels (including aluminium shrouds) were also stripped by redistrip. It doesn't remove metal. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 28/08/2010, at 12:29 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Ray, Strippers are the metal cleaning businesses that acid dip (or > whatever > they call it now) car bodies and other components to remove all rust > and > corrosion. Any good engine builder knows where to have the proper > cleaning > done. The best engine rebuilders have the equipment on site to do > the job. The > problem is that a lot of so called "engine rebuilders" do a quick > down and > dirty rebuild and never have the block properly cleaned ( or > stripped). BTW, > there is no damage done to the engine block or cylinder head in this > process. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > > From: racarbon at verizon.net > > A few questions: > 1. Is there any particular stripping process you prefer? > 2. Do you also have the head stripped along with the block? > 3. Are the cylinder liners or other retention block parts in the > block or head detrimentally affected and now recommended > for replacement? > > Thanks and all the best, > Ray Carbone > ____________ From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Aug 28 06:26:14 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 06:26:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net><008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> Message-ID: <2CD4E7C67CF7451FA0F1CFCA9DC4AF06@oscar> The way to eliminate the fuel question is to plumb in a fuel pressure gauge, hang it where its visible and go for a drive and depending on what you see move on to the electrical questions. Since we have only sketchy info on the cars history and the problem only occurs with the O/D engaged and the O/D gets power from the ignition circuits (white) it's a fair guess, so do the same test only with an ammeter this time. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 9:58 PM To: Alan Seigrist; mdoust at allstream.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it Alan, I have great respect for your knowledge of british cars and Healeys and I sincerely mean that, but in this case I rather doubt there is a fuel delivery problem, description of the issue is the car runs and accelerates fine until you stick it in overdrive, my experience with fuel blockage from sediment is that it cuts off the fuel over a time running, particularly if running higher engine speeds, higher volumes of fuel causes the sediment to rush to a restrictive point and then you don't have enough gas. Kicking it into overdrive would not cause this problem immediately, it would more likely manifest itself at sustained high speeds in direct top than if shifting into O/D. My money is on (can't remember John Harper?) whoever stated a high solenoid draw or other issue with current draw when shifting into overdrive, causing an immediate weak spark and the symptoms described. I would put the car on jackstands, take the tunnel off and either test current draw on the solenoid when in operation, or test by manually pulling the accuating lever and see if it bogs when the electricals are not involved. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From bighealey at charter.net Sat Aug 28 06:37:47 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 05:37:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2452B2197C4D450BBD3E98B49AA0896F@TRACY> Standard VW switch fits right in. Any from 1960s to 70s. You will have to swedge on a spade connector. Going on a couple hundred mile drive today wheeeeeeee Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Magnusson Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 4:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that the brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but I don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following me this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its a fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. thanks, Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Aug 28 07:03:33 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 9:03:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: <4C788DBE.3010503@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <20100828090333.8G58G.12943.root@pamxwww05-z01> I added an electrically operated switch in line with the pressure switch--just in case. I drive the heck out of mine and still had to apply more pressure than what is needed to stop the car before the pressure sw would turn the lights on. I had this happen whether or not the sw was new or old. tom ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= Frank.... << It's a bad switch. I've replaced all of mine and they all work properly in all my cars. It helps if you drive the cars regularly. But john's solution is simple too.>> I concur with Alan 100% !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [and MOST is for Big Healey folks] [and if it doesn't sell on fleabay - goes in TRASH] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From fmags at cox.net Sat Aug 28 08:12:22 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:12:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3FF1D7D516C043C4A82D78664181105C@FrankPC> thanks Alan; it certainly doesn't get driven much these days. I need to rebuild the front brake calipers as they are leaking little bit and one is dragging slightly; maybe I should replace the switch at the same time. Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Frank Magnusson" ; Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 10:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light switch > Frank - > > It's a bad switch. I've replaced all of mine and they all work > properly in all my cars. It helps if you drive the cars regularly. > > But john's solution is simple too. > > Alan > > On 8/28/10, Frank Magnusson wrote: >> Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that >> the >> brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a >> position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes >> a >> fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light >> up >> the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, >> but >> I >> don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've >> followed >> other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had >> following >> me >> this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if >> its >> a >> fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. >> >> thanks, >> Frank Magnusson >> Wichita, KS >> '65 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device From fmags at cox.net Sat Aug 28 08:13:51 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:13:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] $3 brake light switch In-Reply-To: <20100828030039.7393.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100828030039.7393.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: thanks Steve; great website with alot of great info including the ordering info; can't beat that. thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve B. Gerow" To: Cc: Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 10:00 PM Subject: Re: $3 brake light switch >I built an inexpensive setup that works off the pedal clevis - mounts to >the heating duct. > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech&page=2 > > This switch comes on instantly. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 From racarbon at verizon.net Sat Aug 28 08:25:43 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 10:25:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating Message-ID: Rich/Chris, Thank you very much for the information. Surprisingly, after 46 years of 5K RPM shifts, my engine seems to be still running strong. However, after recent compression and vacuum tests, indications of warn rings, valves, and guides were obvious. I was not looking forward to a total rebuild and originally considered doing a valve job and piston rings with engine in the car. But then, the old "while I have it apart this far, why don't I ...." hit and that was that. I appreciate your direction and will definitely be following your suggestions. All the best, Ray (64BJ8P1) From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Aug 28 09:25:28 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:25:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it References: <006e01cb458b$68a18e60$39e4ab20$@net><008a01cb4616$896ba870$9c42f950$@net> <2CD4E7C67CF7451FA0F1CFCA9DC4AF06@oscar> Message-ID: <537863298C314EFEAF1326746CF307FF@Edscomputer> Just read about a similar problem on the Triumph List that was cured by changing the transmission "oil" to Redline MT90. No saying, just passing the word. Ed Woods From jpayne at ThorCon.net Sat Aug 28 09:33:27 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 08:33:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting replacements? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From pryner at verizon.net Sat Aug 28 10:09:43 2010 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 12:09:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6ECE5556F6FC422E96346271A5C62787@PetePC> Very easy. Just take them to your local sears tool department and they with exchange with a similar tool. I've never had a problem as long as it says craftsman on the tool Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" To: "'Austin Healey List'" Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 11:33 AM Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools >I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - > > Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting > replacements? > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Sat Aug 28 10:18:16 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:18:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: just take them to the tool dept of your sears. i did find out the lifetime warranty is for hand tools only, not for electric screwdrivers. On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 10:33 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - > > Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting > replacements? > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > > > > > "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for > the > use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have > received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 > and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender > to > solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this > email > are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of > Thor > Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email > and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no > liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this > email." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From mdoust at allstream.net Sat Aug 28 10:38:06 2010 From: mdoust at allstream.net (mdoust) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 12:38:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it Message-ID: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> I think I fixed it The centrifugal switch pulling in and out the solenoid under speed Jumped the switch and seems to be fixed Cheers Mark From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Sat Aug 28 11:02:15 2010 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?=) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 10:02:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN2: top frame position In-Reply-To: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> References: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> Message-ID: <868263.87791.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Can anyone help me with the correct position of the frame of the convertible top in the body panels, in order to open the securing screws holes correctly Thanks Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia From robertlarson at att.net Sat Aug 28 11:38:39 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 13:38:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C79499F.2010307@att.net> Providing it is not a 50's Craftsman Whitworth/BS one. The sockets at least become a throw away since they don't make them anymore. A couple of years back I tried. Their offer was my choice of a SAE or Metric size that was "close". Bob 55 BN1 & Brit bikes that need them too. On 8/28/2010 12:18 PM, jerry wall wrote: > just take them to the tool dept of your sears. i did find out the lifetime > warranty is for hand tools only, not for electric screwdrivers. > > On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 10:33 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > >> I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - >> >> Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting >> replacements? >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR >> Cell: (702) 358-5084 From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Sat Aug 28 11:54:59 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 19:54:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank, I recently fitted a small micro switch and a relay (a micro switch cannot accomodate the high current of the brake lights) to overcome the problem of the hydraulic switch acting far too late. I can send you some pictures if you like. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/8/28 Frank Magnusson > Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that > the > brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a > position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a > fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up > the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, > but I > don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've > followed > other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following > me > this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if > its a > fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. > > thanks, > Frank Magnusson > Wichita, KS > '65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Aug 28 12:35:11 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 11:35:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <6ECE5556F6FC422E96346271A5C62787@PetePC> References: <768421.15578.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, , , <6ECE5556F6FC422E96346271A5C62787@PetePC> Message-ID: They replace hand tools only. No drills, etc. I had to get my 30 year old Craftsmen drill re-built. (Love those old tools with metal cases no plastic parts.) Rich Kahn > From: pryner at verizon.net > To: jpayne at ThorCon.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 12:09:43 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools > > Very easy. Just take them to your local sears tool department and they with > exchange with a similar tool. I've never had a problem as long as it says > craftsman on the tool > Pete > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jonas Payne" > To: "'Austin Healey List'" > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 11:33 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools > > > >I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - > > > > Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting > > replacements? > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR > > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Aug 28 14:25:32 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 13:25:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <544597.13040.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Take your good old made in USA tool that probably lasted for 30 yrs and exchange it for an inferior made in China tool that won't. The newer ratchets are nowhere near as good as the old ones. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Jonas Payne wrote: From: Jonas Payne Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools To: "'Austin Healey List'" Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:33 AM I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting replacements? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 " From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Aug 28 15:10:57 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 17:10:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <544597.13040.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <544597.13040.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <031c01cb46f5$82be1be0$883a53a0$@verizon.net> I have had my Craftsman ratchet set for over 50 years and have never had a problem with any part of it. Still looks like new and sure works fine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 4:26 PM To: 'Austin Healey List'; Jonas Payne Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools Take your good old made in USA tool that probably lasted for 30 yrs and exchange it for an inferior made in China tool that won't. The newer ratchets are nowhere near as good as the old ones. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Jonas Payne wrote: From: Jonas Payne Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools To: "'Austin Healey List'" Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:33 AM I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting replacements? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sat Aug 28 15:25:41 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:25:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Alan, Many thanks - I have the manifold already coated here locally, to send it back and forth would be a bit of a pain. But I have coated ceramically headers on Volvos with this company and they lasted very well.. Best, tadek _____ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 10:40 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat wrap vs. ceramic coating Tadek - Having seen the work on your BN2, I would highly recommend going with the Jet Hot coating from the US for your Exhaust Header. It will keep engine temperature down substantially, and really make the car a nice one to drive as far as you want in Europe without worrying about heat problems in the engine bay. Again, a link to the header on my Atlantic, which still looks exactly the same now as it did in the picture, even after a couple thousand miles: http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/1952AustinA90AtlanticSportsSaloon#518 6413418446009474 It makes a huge difference in the amount of heat under the bonnet. Very effective: http://www.jet-hot.com/ http://www.jet-hot.com/headercoatings.html The Extreme Sterling is what you want, and it is far more durable than old fashioned ceramic coatings. It's not too expensive, the only thing is you have to remove all the studs and bolts from your header before sending it. Alan On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 3:11 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: Hello all, I have done some research on this and I found that the heat wrap has 2 drawbacks: - if you isolate your manifold and the down pipe continuously you may end up with a burned pipe, as the heat that is traveling through the pipe has nowhere to escape, in result heating the exhaust system to a point where it may burn out. A solution is to wrap it intermittently, leaving gaps. - the heat wrap (although flame retardant) may start burning. Ceramic coating is better in both cases, although more expensive. Ceramic coating may though look more original on your car if you choose the right color.. There was an article comparing the two - I have it and will post as soon as get back home. With the heads we have, where exhaust & inlet are on the same side of the engine I would not use heat wrap. Best, Tadek From shop at justbrits.com Sat Aug 28 17:01:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 18:01:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> References: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> Message-ID: <4C79955F.10809@justbrits.com> Mark, CONGRATS !! << I think I fixed it The centrifugal switch pulling in and out the solenoid under speed Jumped the switch and seems to be fixed >> er NO you have not "fixed" it, [unless you are becoming a future DPO] but you HAVE "isolated" or "identified" the problem !!! NOW you may "fix it" !!!! Ed From fmags at cox.net Sat Aug 28 18:39:42 2010 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 19:39:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1C96B8A35D44949ABF076F75B1F912@FrankPC> sure! that would be great. thanks, Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Frank Magnusson ; Healey forum Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 12:54 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light switch Frank, I recently fitted a small micro switch and a relay (a micro switch cannot accomodate the high current of the brake lights) to overcome the problem of the hydraulic switch acting far too late. I can send you some pictures if you like. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/8/28 Frank Magnusson Has anyone found a substitute for the brake light pressure switch so that the brake lights come on at a lower pressure or found an easy way to mount a position switch on the brake pedal itself like most cars have? It takes a fairly good stomp on the brake pedal to get the pressure switch to light up the brake lights. This is the second switch I've put in over the years, but I don't think its a bad switch; I think its a design 'feature'. I've followed other Healeys with the same obervation that a friend of mine had following me this morning; the brake lights don't come on until very late and only if its a fairly firm stop. Tired of people almost running into me. thanks, Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Aug 28 19:49:40 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 18:49:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <031c01cb46f5$82be1be0$883a53a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <406327.83549.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm sure none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its mounts. ;-/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 8/28/10, John Sims wrote: From: John Sims Subject: RE: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools To: "'HealeyRick'" , "'Austin Healey List'" , "'Jonas Payne'" Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 5:10 PM I have had my Craftsman ratchet set for over 50 years and have never had a problem with any part of it. Still looks like new and sure works fine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 4:26 PM To: 'Austin Healey List'; Jonas Payne Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools Take your good old made in USA tool that probably lasted for 30 yrs and exchange it for an inferior made in China tool that won't. The newer ratchets are nowhere near as good as the old ones. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Jonas Payne wrote: From: Jonas Payne Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools To: "'Austin Healey List'" Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:33 AM I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting replacements? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Aug 28 22:39:21 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 06:39:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Update, Sportscar Show Message-ID: <8E515803-161B-4093-8E70-23C376FB61CD@bornet.net> For anyone that might be interested I have updated the Events page of my site, with Hofsnas Sportscar Show. The Swedish Healey Club met up there with quite a few cars. Link: http://www.concourshealeys.com/?cat=5 Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Aug 29 06:58:06 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 8:58:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Update, Sportscar Show In-Reply-To: <8E515803-161B-4093-8E70-23C376FB61CD@bornet.net> Message-ID: <20100829085806.9TCZA.94084.root@pamxwww03-z01> Great shots!! Thanks for sharing. BTW--why is everyone so bunbled up with sweaters and coats>:):) ---- Magnus Karlsson wrote: ============= For anyone that might be interested I have updated the Events page of my site, with Hofsnas Sportscar Show. The Swedish Healey Club met up there with quite a few cars. Link: http://www.concourshealeys.com/?cat=5 Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 29 07:42:28 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 08:42:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <406327.83549.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <406327.83549.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm sure none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its mounts. ;-/ Rick" Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have obviously been used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end banged all to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or receipt required they just give me a new one. heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are not as high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still take them back again..and again. Greg Lemon From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 29 08:08:58 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 09:08:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it In-Reply-To: <4C79955F.10809@justbrits.com> References: <004101cb46cf$64f05e00$2ed11a00$@net> <4C79955F.10809@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <05C1641886324BB089244D6281EE824E@GregPC> As ED said, you have taken a step to isolate the problem which is great, if I understand you diagnosis correctly you are bypassing the centrifugal switch and all is OK, the centrifugal switch in the BN1 overdrive circuit as designed is only supposed to allow the car to go into overdrive, to quote the factory manual "relay R2 will therefore maintain the coil contact of relay R1 in the event of the centrifugal switch contacts opening" Some people bypass all the centrifugal and throttle switch stuff for simplicities sake and have reported no ill effects, I always kind of the thought the whole centrifugal and throttle switch thing was kind of cool, especially the littel "blip the throttle to kick it out of O/d exercise" so made sure mine worked as intended The relays can often be fixed by cleaning the contacts, the cover lifts off after you pry the tabs out. Good luck! Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 I want to drive it > Mark, CONGRATS !! > > << I think I fixed it > The centrifugal switch pulling in and out the solenoid under speed > Jumped the switch and seems to be fixed >> > > er NO you have not "fixed" it, > [unless you are becoming a future DPO] > > but you HAVE "isolated" or "identified" the problem !!! > > NOW you may "fix it" !!!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From medlabinc at msn.com Sun Aug 29 09:05:42 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 08:05:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools Message-ID: I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were no black skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. It was in rough shape. Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the Sears store saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked if I wanted a new one. Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either now. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Lemon To: HealeyRick ; 'Austin Healey List' ; 'Jonas Payne' ; JohnSims Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 6:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm sure none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its mounts. ;-/ Rick" Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have obviously been used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end banged all to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or receipt required they just give me a new one. heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are not as high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still take them back again..and again. Greg Lemon From robertlarson at att.net Sun Aug 29 09:57:09 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 11:57:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7A8355.7020404@att.net> And don't pass up a rusty Craftsman tool at a yard sale or flea market. 10 to 25 cents can get you a brand new one. I got a linesman pliers that could not be opened because of rust at a yard sale. No questions asked when exchanged for a new one. Bob 55BN1 On 8/29/2010 11:05 AM, Dick Matson wrote: > I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were no black > skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. It was in > rough shape. > > Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the Sears store > saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked if I wanted > a new one. > > Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either now. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Greg Lemon > To: HealeyRick ; 'Austin Healey > List' ; 'Jonas > Payne' ; JohnSims > Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 6:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools > > > "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a > "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm > sure > none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its > mounts. > ;-/ > > Rick" > > Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have obviously been > used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end banged all > to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or receipt > required they just give me a new one. > > heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are not as > high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still take > them back again..and again. > > Greg Lemon From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 29 10:27:03 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 09:27:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <4C7A8355.7020404@att.net> References: <4C7A8355.7020404@att.net> Message-ID: second hand and pawn shops too On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Bob wrote: > And don't pass up a rusty Craftsman tool at a yard sale or flea market. 10 > to 25 cents can get > you a brand new one. > > I got a linesman pliers that could not be opened because of rust at a yard > sale. No questions > asked when exchanged for a new one. > > Bob > > 55BN1 > > > On 8/29/2010 11:05 AM, Dick Matson wrote: > >> I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were no >> black >> skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. It was >> in >> rough shape. >> >> Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the Sears >> store >> saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked if I >> wanted >> a new one. >> >> Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either now. >> >> Dick Matson / Bj8 >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Greg Lemon >> To: HealeyRick ; 'Austin Healey >> List' ; 'Jonas >> Payne' ; JohnSims >> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 6:42 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools >> >> >> "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a >> "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm >> sure >> none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its >> mounts. >> ;-/ >> >> Rick" >> >> Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have obviously >> been >> used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end banged all >> to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or receipt >> required they just give me a new one. >> >> heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are not as >> high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still take >> them back again..and again. >> >> Greg Lemon >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Aug 29 12:45:11 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:45:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100829144511.W21NO.147175.root@pamxwww04-z01> Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to Sears for replacement. I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back for replacement. Flame away.:) ---- Dick Matson wrote: ============= I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were no black skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. It was in rough shape. Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the Sears store saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked if I wanted a new one. Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either now. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Lemon To: HealeyRick ; 'Austin Healey List' ; 'Jonas Payne' ; JohnSims Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 6:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give you a "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, which I'm sure none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into its mounts. ;-/ Rick" Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have obviously been used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end banged all to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or receipt required they just give me a new one. heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are not as high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still take them back again..and again. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Aug 29 13:14:48 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 15:14:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) Message-ID: <20100829.121524.1057.232322@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> Gee, character and honesty. What a novel concept!! Tom, you are an anomaly in a society that has basically become self-absorbed and special interest driven. Your feeling is appreciated. We once returned to a grocery store to pay for an item we had not been charged for. The manager said that people complain when they are mistakenly over charged, but NEVER come back when they aren't charged. The point being that somebody pays for it. If you take tools back for replacement that aren't yours, the cost is passed along. There is no free lunch. IMHO. Doug > Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market > and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to > Sears for replacement. > > I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling > that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back > for replacement. > > Flame away.:) > > > ---- Dick Matson wrote: > > ============= > I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were > no black > skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. > It was in > rough shape. > > Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the > Sears store > saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked > if I wanted > a new one. > > Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either > now. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Greg Lemon > To: HealeyRick ; 'Austin Healey > List' ; 'Jonas > Payne' ; > JohnSims > Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 6:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools > > > "Craftsman will no longer give you a "new"ratchet. They will give > you a > "rebuilt" one. At least you can still get a new BFScrewdriver, > which I'm > sure > none of us ever misused as a prybar to get an engine aligned into > its > mounts. > ;-/ > > Rick" > > Made me chuckle, I have taken in "BF Screwdrivers" that have > obviously been > used a not only as a prybar, but a chisel, with the plastic end > banged all > to hell, no questions or comments no dirty looks, no paperwork or > receipt > required they just give me a new one. > > heck of a deal, yes the new ratchets and some of the new tools are > not as > high quality as the old ones, but if they fail sooner you can still > take > them back again..and again. > > Greg Lemon ____________________________________________________________ 1 Tip for Losing Weight Cut down 2 lbs per week by using this 1 weird old tip http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c7ab1de74b9d8dd2fcst03duc From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Aug 29 13:41:09 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 13:41:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) In-Reply-To: <20100829.121524.1057.232322@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> References: <20100829.121524.1057.232322@mailpop11.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4C7AB7D5.5040703@sasktel.net> Hi Doug Although some would say the concept you described exists I am afraid the adjective you used is exactly where the concept is today. Most do not care whether it is their friends, the local grocer, the bank, etc their approach is we are owed! Kind regards Ed Saskatoon dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Gee, character and honesty. What a novel concept!! Tom, you are an > anomaly in a society that has basically become self-absorbed and special > interest driven. Your feeling is appreciated. We once returned to a > grocery store to pay for an item we had not been charged for. The manager > said that people complain when they are mistakenly over charged, but > NEVER come back when they aren't charged. The point being that somebody > pays for it. If you take tools back for replacement that aren't yours, > the cost is passed along. There is no free lunch. IMHO. > > Doug > > > >> Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market >> and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to >> Sears for replacement. >> >> I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling >> that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back >> for replacement. >> >> Flame away.:) From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 29 15:14:45 2010 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:14:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Core parts Message-ID: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello fellow listers, I am attempting to sell off various items ( no I do not have a list as of yet) and I am just looking for some advice /leads. In my collection of STUFF I have 4 shocks, 2 water pumps and 2 brake boosters. All of these items need to be rebuilt and I am looking for names of firms or shops that might want these as cores. Any help in clearing off some more shelf space would be greatly appreciated. TIA, John From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun Aug 29 16:26:00 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:26:00 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD Message-ID: <38d48.581413b6.39ac3878@aol.com> To all listers, The DVD of Team Healey's return to Bonneville is now available. This is a two DVD set. One DVD is a ninety minute video documenting the cars, drivers and events on the salt. The other DVD is a two hour recording of the presentation given by Team Healey at the Wendover Community Center. So in total, you'll have well over three hours of Healey history for your viewing pleasure. A lot has gone into this production and I thought long and hard over what to charge for this and as such I've come up with this solution. For folks on this list, through a Healey club, or people you tell this about, I'm making the DVD's available for $39.95 plus $5.00 for shipping and handling. Off the list, direct retail, it's going to list for $69.95. And because this is a worldwide list, it will be available in both NTSC and PAL formats. So if you want to order a copy, go to _www.airtightproductions.com_ (http://www.airtightproductions.com) and go to the products page. There you will see a photo of the package and a "buy now" button for a paypal purchase. This was the easiest way I could think of to make this work for everyone on a worldwide basis. Thanks in advance for your interest and I hope you enjoy reliving this chapter in Healey history. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 29 16:31:30 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:31:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> John I have the same issue. A 40 year collection of used parts that always seemed to useful to toss once suppliers stopped taking cores. Of course being in the middle of the pacific Ocean doesn't help either. Rebuilders generally are not interested in paying big bucks to buy cores if the (expensive) shipping is part of the deal. Can't blame them about that. Must have 25 water pumps and the same amount or more of shocks. Of course the core issue may not be at the "core" of my problem. Perhaps I'm just an Austin Healey pack rat. Don't ask about the collection of brake drums...another really saleable item! Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: john gillespie To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Aug 29, 2010 11:14 am Subject: [Healeys] Core parts Hello fellow listers, I am attempting to sell off various items ( no I do not have a list as of yet) and I am just looking for some advice /leads. In my collection of STUFF I have 4 shocks, 2 water pumps and 2 brake boosters. All of these items need to be rebuilt and I am looking for names of firms or shops that might want these as cores. Any help in clearing off some more shelf space would be greatly appreciated. TIA, John From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 29 16:38:13 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 22:38:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another "won't start" Message-ID: Recently, very recently, someone posted instructions on how to test the electrical system. Could you resend that? I went out for a drive yesterday ( with my wife again ) for maybe 1.5 hours round trip includhttp://chelseasmokehouse.com/ing a road construction traffic jam on the way there and a demonstration traffic detour on the return trip, with a shortish stop at a store as a destination. As an aside, I must have a 160 degree thermostat in there, as the temp varied on that hot day between 160 and 190. So, anyway, I drove there, parked, went into the shop for 10-15 minutes, came out, started and drove home, parked in the driveway while unloading the food from http://chelseasmokehouse.com/ ( UK content; the newish owners are from the UK ). Came back out 5 minutes later with the intention of doing a couple of local errands and 'click'; 'no start'. I listened for the fuel pump, but didn't hear it. ( no surprise there as I don't hear much with any kind of background noise ) So, I pushed it into the garage and we completed our tour in the 'ru. After a while, I went out to the garage and turned the key on ( temp gauge around 120 ) and could hear the fuel pump on quite clearly ( isolated from street sounds, etc ) and got the click when pressing the start button. I did it a few times and the car started. I let it run for 30 seconds or so, shut it off, and tried again a few times with no luck. So, I went through the motions to charge the battery, figuring that a battery cable had bounced loose again. The cables appeared to be tight enough, but I know that I have to make the rounds and make sure connections are clean and tight. So ... I connected the battery charger, and ... it did not appear to be in bad shape. So, it would seem to me that I have a heat related electrical issue ... or my wife is a jinx. :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 29 17:07:18 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 07:07:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: As a courtesy to other list members, the shock cores should go to Peter Caldwell. He might be willing to cover shipping. I know he has no AH cores on hand. He's the best shock rebuilder in North America. On 8/30/10, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > John > I have the same issue. A 40 year collection of used parts that always > seemed to useful to toss once suppliers stopped taking cores. Of course > being in the middle of the pacific Ocean doesn't help either. > Rebuilders generally are not interested in paying big bucks to buy > cores if the (expensive) shipping is part of the deal. Can't blame them > about that. Must have 25 water pumps and the same amount or more of > shocks. Of course the core issue may not be at the "core" of my > problem. Perhaps I'm just an Austin Healey pack rat. Don't ask about > the collection of brake drums...another really saleable item! > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: john gillespie > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Aug 29, 2010 11:14 am > Subject: [Healeys] Core parts > > > Hello fellow listers, I am attempting to sell off various items ( no I > do not > have a list as of yet) and I am just looking for some advice /leads. In > my > collection of STUFF I have 4 shocks, 2 water pumps and 2 brake > boosters. All of > > these items need to be rebuilt and I am looking for names of firms or > shops that > > might want these as cores. Any help in clearing off some more shelf > space would > > be greatly appreciated. TIA, John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From shop at justbrits.com Sun Aug 29 17:21:06 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:21:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7AEB62.3080902@justbrits.com> << As a courtesy to other list members, the shock cores should go to Peter Caldwell. He might be willing to cover shipping. I know he has no AH cores on hand. He's the best shock rebuilder in North America. >> Beat me to it, Alan !!! And should be "World" IMNSHO !! Perry, he DOES have a WATS line !! 1-800-362-1025 Try giving him a ring AFTER 1:00PM CDT !! Nice chap and his word is better than platinum !!! Ed From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Aug 29 17:31:56 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:31:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <4C7AEB62.3080902@justbrits.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> <4C7AEB62.3080902@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <85F28A0CF857434BA17AD6217D914783@oscar> Gawd Ed, are gold prices already tanking? frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 5:21 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core parts << As a courtesy to other list members, the shock cores should go to Peter Caldwell. He might be willing to cover shipping. I know he has no AH cores on hand. He's the best shock rebuilder in North America. >> Beat me to it, Alan !!! And should be "World" IMNSHO !! Perry, he DOES have a WATS line !! 1-800-362-1025 Try giving him a ring AFTER 1:00PM CDT !! Nice chap and his word is better than platinum !!! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 29 17:43:41 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 19:43:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD15EB24E4B09E-1298-18971@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Peter is on the list, or was, so we may be able to get together on the shocks if he is out of cores. Courtesy only goes so far. I recall shipping a 500 pound wooden crate to the mainland US with cores in it in the mid eighties. (Not sent to Peter) We dismantled a lot of Healeys back then. The shock cores where only partially accepted as rebuildable and therefore I took a bath regarding the bottom line on that deal. There was a water pump rebuilder on the list at one time but I've lost track of that contact. Actual I was trying to just respond to John's email and really trying to avoid hawking parts on the list. back to my Sunday afternoon activities. Costco awaits my bi-weekly deposit... Aloha Perry Alan wrote: As a courtesy to other list members, the shock cores should go to Peter Caldwell. He might be willing to cover shipping. I know he has no AH cores on hand. He's the best shock rebuilder in North America. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 29 17:58:03 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 16:58:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <353360.68161.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Progress is being made on my Nasty Boy. Engine is in and I'm starting to connect all the accessories. Don't let them fool you, Installing the engine/tranny is the easy part. Hooking everything else from there is the real PITA, Click on the link below. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 29 18:08:06 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 00:08:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <4C7AEB62.3080902@justbrits.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, <8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>, , <4C7AEB62.3080902@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Hmmm! What is his word? I often have to use m-w.com to look up words that he uses. He has 'a word'? Peter, what is this word? PPP does have a bit of a reputation though, doesn't he? :) I'm not sure if I should say that that is shocking or damn ping. ;) >> Peter Caldwell. >> He's the best shock rebuilder in North America. >> > > Beat me to it, Alan !!! And should be "World" IMNSHO !! > > Nice chap and his word is better than platinum !!! > > Ed From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 29 18:17:57 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 00:17:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <8CD15EB24E4B09E-1298-18971@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CD15E11003E4A4-1298-17D57@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>, , <8CD15EB24E4B09E-1298-18971@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: The other thing to consider is that younger pack rats may be willing to hoard some of those parts willingly and you should probably list those parts here. Does anyone have a chromed 100 valve cover w oil cap that they want to part with? Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada > Actual I was trying to just respond to John's email and really trying > to avoid hawking parts on the list. > back to my Sunday afternoon activities. Costco awaits my bi-weekly > deposit... > Aloha > Perry From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 29 18:29:47 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:29:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Update In-Reply-To: <353360.68161.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <845141.33984.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Resent with an appropriate slug: Progress is being made on my Nasty Boy. Engine is in and I'm starting to connect all the accessories. Don't let them fool you, Installing the engine/tranny is the easy part. Hooking everything else from there is the real PITA, Click on the link below. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 29 18:53:02 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:53:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <353360.68161.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <353360.68161.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nice looking so far Rick. I like your treatment of the brake and throttle pedals, they look very nice. Make sure to keep the old motor with the car so that the purists on this list don't blow their tops like Yosemite Sam. Of course, begs the question, why didn't you just save yourself a huge amount of grief and buy a Sunbeam Tiger instead? ;P Alan On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 7:58 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > Progress is being made on my Nasty Boy. Engine is in and I'm starting to > connect all the accessories. Don't let them fool you, Installing the > engine/tranny is the easy part. Hooking everything else from there is the > real PITA, Click on the link below. > > Rick From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 29 19:38:31 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 21:38:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools References: <20100829144511.W21NO.147175.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <000a01cb47e4$0e0f9950$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Tom, I understand perfectly, here is my address if you find any that don't belong to you. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Felts" To: "Dick Matson" ; "AustinHealey List" Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools > Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market and buy > old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to Sears for > replacement. > > I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling that > if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back for > replacement. > > Flame away.:) > > /Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Aug 29 20:09:34 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 19:09:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <548484.84791.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks, Alan. The original engine and tranny are safe if someone ever wants to undo my fine work. All the mods, with the exception of the footboxes would be pretty easy to reverse and most folks besides Healey nuts probably wouldn't notice the footboxes. Why didn't I buy a Tiger? Because I'm a Healey guy! At the end of the day, the looks of the Tiger can never compete with the lines penned by Gerry Coker. Rick --- On Sun, 8/29/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: From: Alan Seigrist Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject) To: "HealeyRick" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, August 29, 2010, 8:53 PM Nice looking so far Rick. I like your treatment of the brake and throttle pedals, they look very nice. Make sure to keep the old motor with the car so that the purists on this list don't blow their tops like Yosemite Sam. Of course, begs the question, why didn't you just save yourself a huge amount of grief and buy a Sunbeam Tiger instead? ;P Alan On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 7:58 AM, HealeyRick wrote: Progress is being made on my Nasty Boy. Engine is in and I'm starting to connect all the accessories. Don't let them fool you, Installing the engine/tranny is the easy part. Hooking everything else from there is the real PITA, Click on the link below. Rick From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Aug 29 20:13:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:13:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <548484.84791.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <548484.84791.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I just remember Arnie driving the red Sunbeam and saying: "Hey Sully, remembehr whehn I TOHLD you I kihll you LAHST? I LIED." Can't get more macho than that. On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 10:09 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > Thanks, Alan. The original engine and tranny are safe if someone ever > wants to undo my fine work. All the mods, with the exception of the > footboxes would be pretty easy to reverse and most folks besides Healey nuts > probably wouldn't notice the footboxes. Why didn't I buy a Tiger? Because > I'm a Healey guy! At the end of the day, the looks of the Tiger can never > compete with the lines penned by Gerry Coker. > > Rick > > > > --- On *Sun, 8/29/10, Alan Seigrist * wrote: > > > From: Alan Seigrist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject) > To: "HealeyRick" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, August 29, 2010, 8:53 PM > > > Nice looking so far Rick. I like your treatment of the brake and throttle > pedals, they look very nice. > > Make sure to keep the old motor with the car so that the purists on this > list don't blow their tops like Yosemite Sam. Of course, begs the question, > why didn't you just save yourself a huge amount of grief and buy a Sunbeam > Tiger instead? > > ;P > > Alan > > On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 7:58 AM, HealeyRick > > wrote: > > Progress is being made on my Nasty Boy. Engine is in and I'm starting to > connect all the accessories. Don't let them fool you, Installing the > engine/tranny is the easy part. Hooking everything else from there is the > real PITA, Click on the link below. > > Rick From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Aug 29 20:24:04 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 02:24:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Core parts In-Reply-To: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <305162.10561.qm@web34505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John: You have received many replies about the shocks, here is a place that rebuilds the water pumps, www.customwaterpumps.net He is located in Sault Ste.Marie, Michigan, not sure if he would take core but never hurt to ask. As far as brake boosters are concerned you may want to try John Stuart Power Brake Co Ltd, located in Stoney Creek, Ontario. Jean Caron > Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:14:45 -0700 > From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Core parts > > Hello fellow listers, I am attempting to sell off various items ( no I do not > have a list as of yet) and I am just looking for some advice /leads. In my > collection of STUFF I have 4 shocks, 2 water pumps and 2 brake boosters. All of > these items need to be rebuilt and I am looking for names of firms or shops that > might want these as cores. Any help in clearing off some more shelf space would > be greatly appreciated. TIA, John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Aug 29 21:03:34 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:03:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Craftsman_Tools_=28No_Flames!!=29?= Message-ID: <4c7b1f77.0247960a.7b86.3632@mx.google.com> My local grocer was bought by a multi national chain and created angry employees and removed local favorites from the store. Or moved jobs snd profits off shore. This is not a simple morality play Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "E.A. Driver" Date: Sun, Aug 29, 2010 12:41 pm Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) To: Cc: Hi Doug Although some would say the concept you described exists I am afraid the adjective you used is exactly where the concept is today. Most do not care whether it is their friends, the local grocer, the bank, etc their approach is we are owed! Kind regards Ed Saskatoon dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Gee, character and honesty. What a novel concept!! Tom, you are an > anomaly in a society that has basically become self-absorbed and special > interest driven. Your feeling is appreciated. We once returned to a > grocery store to pay for an item we had not been charged for. The manager > said that people complain when they are mistakenly over charged, but > NEVER come back when they aren't charged. The point being that somebody > pays for it. If you take tools back for replacement that aren't yours, > the cost is passed along. There is no free lunch. IMHO. > > Doug > > > >> Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market >> and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to >> Sears for replacement. >> >> I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling >> that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back >> for replacement. >> >> Flame away.:) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From robertlarson at att.net Sun Aug 29 22:55:48 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 00:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) In-Reply-To: <4c7b1f77.0247960a.7b86.3632@mx.google.com> References: <4c7b1f77.0247960a.7b86.3632@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4C7B39D4.4090407@att.net> Also what is Sears's obligation to me? My first motorcycle was a 1947 Ariel 350cc Red Hunter. I bought from Sears one of their tool sets, one of those that the ad was XX number of pieces. So In 1959/60 I supplemented that set with some Whitworth/BS wrenches and sockets which were marketed with the Craftsman name and had the lifetime guarantee. I broke a socket which they could not replace. In that case they certainly did not keep their end of the deal. Should they have not warehoused enough to fulfill their commitment. What happened to the tooling, shouldn't they have kept it in case of more were needed? They made a business decision to walk away from their warranty. Bob 55BN1 On 8/29/2010 11:03 PM, eyera3 at gmail.com wrote: > My local grocer was bought by a multi national chain and created angry employees and removed local favorites from the store. Or moved jobs snd profits off shore. This is not a simple morality play > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "E.A. Driver" > Date: Sun, Aug 29, 2010 12:41 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) > To: > Cc: > > > Hi Doug > > Although some would say the concept you described exists I am afraid > the adjective you > used is exactly where the concept is today. Most do not care whether it > is their friends, > the local grocer, the bank, etc their approach is we are owed! > > Kind regards > Ed > Saskatoon > > > dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > >> Gee, character and honesty. What a novel concept!! Tom, you are an >> anomaly in a society that has basically become self-absorbed and special >> interest driven. Your feeling is appreciated. We once returned to a >> grocery store to pay for an item we had not been charged for. The manager >> said that people complain when they are mistakenly over charged, but >> NEVER come back when they aren't charged. The point being that somebody >> pays for it. If you take tools back for replacement that aren't yours, >> the cost is passed along. There is no free lunch. IMHO. >> >> Doug >> >> >> >> >>> Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market >>> and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to >>> Sears for replacement. >>> >>> I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling >>> that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back >>> for replacement. >>> >>> Flame away.:) From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Mon Aug 30 00:49:29 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 30 Aug 2010 08:49:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Return_to_Bonneville_DVD?= Message-ID: Steven, the link in your mail below doesn't work (for me). www.airtightproductions.com not found (do you mean www.airtight-productions.com) my ie asks me. If I click on www.airtight-productions.com I get a page only saying 'Airtight Hosting' with nothing to click on. Eric To all listers, The DVD of Team Healey's return to Bonneville is now available. This is a two DVD set. One DVD is a ninety minute video documenting the cars, drivers and events on the salt. The other DVD is a two hour recording of the presentation given by Team Healey at the Wendover Community Center. So in total, you'll have well over three hours of Healey history for your viewing pleasure. A lot has gone into this production and I thought long and hard over what to charge for this and as such I've come up with this solution. For folks on this list, through a Healey club, or people you tell this about, I'm making the DVD's available for $39.95 plus $5.00 for shipping and handling. Off the list, direct retail, it's going to list for $69.95. And because this is a worldwide list, it will be available in both NTSC and PAL formats. So if you want to order a copy, go to _www.airtightproductions.com_ (http://www.airtightproductions.com) and go to the products page. There you will see a photo of the package and a "buy now" button for a paypal purchase. This was the easiest way I could think of to make this work for everyone on a worldwide basis. Thanks in advance for your interest and I hope you enjoy reliving this chapter in Healey history. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 30 00:52:13 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:52:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Another "won't start" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7B551D.3020602@chello.nl> Check battery connections, earth strap, starter relay. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 30-8-2010 0:38, Robert Duquette schreef: > Recently, very recently, someone posted instructions on how to test the > electrical system. > > > > Could you resend that? > > > > I went out for a drive yesterday ( with my wife again ) for maybe 1.5 hours > round trip includhttp://chelseasmokehouse.com/ing a road construction traffic > jam on the way there and a demonstration traffic detour on the return trip, > with a shortish stop at a store as a destination. As an aside, I must have a > 160 degree thermostat in there, as the temp varied on that hot day between 160 > and 190. So, anyway, I drove there, parked, went into the shop for 10-15 > minutes, came out, started and drove home, parked in the driveway while > unloading the food from http://chelseasmokehouse.com/ ( UK content; the newish > owners are from the UK ). Came back out 5 minutes later with the intention of > doing a couple of local errands and 'click'; 'no start'. I listened for the > fuel pump, but didn't hear it. ( no surprise there as I don't hear much with > any kind of background noise ) So, I pushed it into the garage and we > completed our tour in the 'ru. After a while, I went out to the garage and > turned the key on ( temp gauge around 120 ) and could hear the fuel pump on > quite clearly ( isolated from street sounds, etc ) and got the click when > pressing the start button. I did it a few times and the car started. I let > it run for 30 seconds or so, shut it off, and tried again a few times with no > luck. So, I went through the motions to charge the battery, figuring that a > battery cable had bounced loose again. The cables appeared to be tight > enough, but I know that I have to make the rounds and make sure connections > are clean and tight. So ... I connected the battery charger, and ... it did > not appear to be in bad shape. So, it would seem to me that I have a heat > related electrical issue ... or my wife is a jinx. :) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.851 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/3100 - datum van uitgifte: 08/29/10 08:34:00 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From shop at justbrits.com Mon Aug 30 02:59:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 03:59:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7B72E3.8020908@justbrits.com> << the link in your mail below doesn't work (for me). www.airtightproductions.com not found (do you mean www.airtight-productions.com) my ie asks me. >> Former works perfectly Eric but the latter goes to just two [2] word page. YOUR problem is that POS 'ie' !! Go to www.mozilla.com and get FireFox for your browser and ALSO Thunderbird for your eMail Client !!! VERY expensive but both are really GREAT !!! Price is FREE !!!! Ed From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Aug 30 03:26:40 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:26:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] airtightproductions.com Message-ID: <2a784.183d50b6.39acd350@aol.com> In a message dated 8/30/10 12:00:26 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Steven, > > the link in your mail below doesn't work (for me). > www.airtightproductions.com not found (do you mean www.airtight-productions.com) my ie asks me. If > I click on www.airtight-productions.com I get a page only saying 'Airtight > Hosting' with nothing to click on. > > Eric > Try avoiding the hyphen next time. www.airtightproductions.com worked for me: "...a full service video production company." But I typed it in, rather than clicking or cutting and pasting. Click on "products" to find the Healey Bonneville video. Cheers Gary From CAWS52803 at aol.com Mon Aug 30 03:48:00 2010 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:48:00 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD Message-ID: <96b1c.4b73ce4f.39acd850@aol.com> In a message dated 8/30/2010 2:59:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, lists at brits-n-pieces.com writes: http://www.airtightproductions.com I had no problem with this link. It is correct. Rudy in NC From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Aug 30 06:59:04 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 8:59:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <000a01cb47e4$0e0f9950$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <20100830085904.0SXUS.193936.root@pamxwww01-z01> No Mark---just keep visiting the flea markets or walking the roads-- ---- Mark LaPierre wrote: ============= Tom, I understand perfectly, here is my address if you find any that don't belong to you. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Felts" To: "Dick Matson" ; "AustinHealey List" Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools > Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market and buy > old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to Sears for > replacement. > > I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling that > if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back for > replacement. > > Flame away.:) > > /Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 09:14:36 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 11:14:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools Message-ID: Shortly after I started my career with Sears, in Charleston SC, a customer came into the the hardware dept with that large 20" or so screwdriver that most people actually use as a pry bar that had a broken shaft. He asked for and received a replacement. About 5 minutes later he was back. His replacement was broken. It was replaced and 5 minutes later he was back again with the shaft broken. The department manager asked him if he would mind telling him what he was doing with the screwdrivers to break them. His reply was "Oh, I'm just going out and sticking them in the expansion joint in the sidewalk and breaking them to see how many times you will replace it." He was assured that as long as he bought them back that they would be replaced and there was no need to keep up this "test". Apparently it worked and he was convinced because he did quit. Of course he may have also noticed that we were out of stock by then. You don't carry much inventory on slow moving items, and you discontinue altogether items that stop selling like Whitworth tools. Bob Johnson BJ8 From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 09:18:45 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:18:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) In-Reply-To: References: <20100830.044557.979.233676@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "I Erbs" Date: Aug 30, 2010 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) To: Actually I dont see this as a moral issue. Its not like I shop lifted toold, then took them back for a refund ( this is wrong) in the case of buying or finding tools that were purchased with a warrenty back to sears just means the wsrrenty was trsnsfered to new owner. I never heard that you had to be an original owner to get a replacement. No onr is being screwed in the above situation. My comments about national chains was not meant to justify theft. Just a comment that the times are a changing and its a complex issue Cheers Happy healeying > > On Aug 30, 2010 4:46 AM, wrote: > > So, let me see if I get this right. Beca... > > > > Also what is Sears's obligation to me? > > > My first motorcycle was a 1947 Ariel 350cc Red Hunter... > > ____________________________________________________________ > Staples® Weekly Ad > Glue &... From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 09:20:33 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:20:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD In-Reply-To: <96b1c.4b73ce4f.39acd850@aol.com> References: <96b1c.4b73ce4f.39acd850@aol.com> Message-ID: Try to copy and paste into address bar, if just hitting link does not work On Aug 30, 2010 2:56 AM, wrote: In a message dated 8/30/2010 2:59:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, lists at brits-n-pieces.com writes: http://www.airtightproductions.com I had no problem with this link. It is correct. Rudy in NC _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/d... From dan at warner-associates.com Mon Aug 30 09:24:56 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:24:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: <031c01cb46f5$82be1be0$883a53a0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <8DA3C97914854F26BA9857D1A8D04597@DANSTROM> The Sears shop I swapped my ratchet at had a drawer full of them and let me pick through until I found a good match. There were a couple of changes. I think you might be able to have your original rebuilt by Sears if you want to wait and make a second trip. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 4:11 PM To: 'HealeyRick'; 'Austin Healey List'; 'Jonas Payne' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools I have had my Craftsman ratchet set for over 50 years and have never had a problem with any part of it. Still looks like new and sure works fine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 4:26 PM To: 'Austin Healey List'; Jonas Payne Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools Take your good old made in USA tool that probably lasted for 30 yrs and exchange it for an inferior made in China tool that won't. The newer ratchets are nowhere near as good as the old ones. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Jonas Payne wrote: From: Jonas Payne Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools To: "'Austin Healey List'" Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:33 AM I have a couple Craftsman tools that have given up the ghost - Having never returned one - what is the process to taking them and getting replacements? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan at warner-associates.com From jpayne at ThorCon.net Mon Aug 30 09:39:38 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Craftsman Buggy Whips? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Aug 30 09:48:08 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:48:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Fw: Craftsman Tools / Flames Message-ID: Regarding that Craftsman screwdriver I found on the highway: Well. I have to agree with Tom. Follow up: There's a lot of traffic on that highway - Hwy 2 in WA. Several Healeys sightings too in the past week too. Anyway I saw this screwdriver laying on the highway. It didn't look like a good idea it was there. So I stopped, walked back and picked it up. It looked like it had been run over a lot. It was really beat up. So that was my good deed for the day. But hold the accolades and bouquets. I don't think of myself as an opportunist so much and will return the replacement to the Sears store my next time there. Yup. I will. Dick Matson / Bj8 ____________________________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: dwflagg at juno.com To: tomfelts at windstream.net Cc: medlabinc at msn.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 12:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tools (No Flames!!) Gee, character and honesty. What a novel concept!! Tom. Doug ___________________________________________________ > Well--I guess if a person wanted to they could go to a flea market > and buy old beat up Craftsman tools for peanuts and take them to > Sears for replacement. > > I know, we had this discussion before, but I still have this feeling > that if I didn't buy it originally, i shouldn't be taking it back > for replacement. Tom > > ============= > I recently found a Craftsman screwdriver on the highway. There were > no black > skid marks around but the screwdriver had sure been run over some. > It was in > rough shape. > > Not able to find it's owner I took it to the tool section of the > Sears store > saying this screwdriver is in pretty rough shape. The store asked > if I wanted > a new one. > > Among some other-type tools Sears will not replace tape rules either > now. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Aug 30 10:33:12 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:33:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear spring Shackle pin & bush size mismatch Message-ID: <4C464D358BEC431990C71CAB8EFD4897@tm> Hello, It's interesting how quality varies among sellers.. I bought the bushes for the shackle pin from one seller in UK and later on the pins from another. Unfortunately, the pins are bigger than the bushes by about 0.4mm.. Anyone knows what the size should be of the bush and the pin?... Best, Tadek From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 11:38:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:38:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] need tri carb parts Message-ID: I boug.ht a tri carb set up on ebay, but it needs some bits. I need 3 dashpots and pistons, plus the balance tube. I'm sure it will need more parts when they arrive, but this si what I n0ow right now please reply off list to me with prices. eyera3 at gmail.com -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 30 14:09:39 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:09:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock Message-ID: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing dash board and glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an "issue" I had a new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the lock. The usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as N/A and AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove box lock that they wouldbe willing to part with at a reasonable price? TIA Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 30 15:00:20 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:00:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The BJ8 glove box lock and reasonable price do not go together. They have not been available for probably 25 years. The broken key in the lock should not be a problem to get out after taking the assy out of the door. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Aug 30, 2010, at 1:09 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing > dash board and > glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an > "issue" I had > a > new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the > lock. > The > usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as > N/A > and > AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. > > > Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove > box lock that they wouldbe willing to part > with at a reasonable price? > > > TIA > Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 15:10:00 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 17:10:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob, Can you take your glove box lock apart? You might be able to get the tumbler out and then extract what's left of the key. - Tom On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 4:09 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing dash board and > glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an "issue" I had > a > new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the lock. > The > usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as N/A > and > AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. > > > Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove > box lock that they wouldbe willing to part > with at a reasonable price? > > > TIA > Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 15:34:32 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:34:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob, I surprised that no competent locksmith has been able to remove the remains of the broken key from your original. Curt On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 1:09 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing dash board > and > glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an "issue" I > had > a > new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the lock. > The > usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as N/A > and > AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. > > > Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove > box lock that they wouldbe willing to part > with at a reasonable price? > > > TIA > Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Aug 30 16:19:04 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:19:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <172502.9973.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Bob Why can't you have a locksmith remove the broken key from the Lock? Ron ________________________________ We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing dash board and glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an "issue" I had a new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the lock. From: Bob Brown To: Healey List Cc: mellb8716 at hotmail.com Sent: Mon, August 30, 2010 4:09:39 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock The usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as N/A and AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove box lock that they wouldbe willing to part with at a reasonable price? TIA Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 16:19:39 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 06:19:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob - The tumbler is quite basic, just take it out. You'll be able to get the old key out with a little bit of fiddling. Alan On 8/31/10, Bob Brown wrote: > We completed the BJ8 resoration this spring. I used he existing dash board > and > glove box. I had no key for the glove box and it has become an "issue" I > had > a > new key made by Pete Groh but alas the old key is broken off in the lock. > The > usual sources are not viable options, Moss lists glove box locks as N/A > and > AHead4Healeys lists one for 195#. > > > Does anyone have an needed BJ8 glove > box lock that they wouldbe willing to part > with at a reasonable price? > > > TIA > Bob & Melissa (it's her BJ8) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device From shop at justbrits.com Mon Aug 30 17:18:00 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:18:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box Lock In-Reply-To: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <174795.55196.qm@web83912.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C7C3C28.9000904@justbrits.com> << AHead4Healeys lists one for 195# >> As a dist. for them, I have eMailed with Keith several times about them and am assured they are VERY good. Ed From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 30 18:25:50 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:25:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] need tri carb parts References: Message-ID: <000801cb48a3$1105c110$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Jees what DID you win. Those are pretty important items in the setup and they need to be matched sets. What SU version do they need to be. Good Luck My friend. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: "healey help" Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: [Healeys] need tri carb parts >I boug.ht a tri carb set up on ebay, but it needs some bits. > I need 3 dashpots and pistons, plus the balance tube. I'm sure it will > need > more parts when they arrive, but this si what I n0ow right now > > please reply off list to me with prices. > eyera3 at gmail.com > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Aug 30 20:04:06 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 22:04:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Healey head cracks Message-ID: <1358D663CA824265977F68659624E3C6@Edscomputer> List, I have a 3000 head which was cracked between 2 coolant ports (holes) located between no.2 and no. 3 combustion chambers and 2 similar coolant ports (holes again) between nos. 4 and 5. I have photos if anyone cares to see them. Just respond off list. This is a common problem on Triumph TR3 heads and does not make the head unserviceable, even if the crack is not repaired since the holes are entry to a common water passage and are sealed (from the cylinders) by the head gasket anyway. What are the Lists thoughts on the Healey 3000 head? Has anyone had a similar situation? Was the head trashed, left in service "as is", or repaired in some way? Thanks in advance, Ed Woods From CAWS52803 at aol.com Mon Aug 30 20:29:26 2010 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 22:29:26 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question Message-ID: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid cylinders. I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the parts list and owners manuals for a guide. Any suggestions or help? Rudy in NC From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 30 20:33:52 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 19:33:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Don Lenschow - Pennies from heaven Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100830192804.01ff68c0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I knew that one day I would need the stainless steel seat rail T-nuts Don made but it was way in the future. When I heard of his passing I was kicking myself for not ordering them. Then I heard that you could still order parts until the inventory was gone. I order the T-nuts quite sometime ago and when they did not come I just figured they were gone so I placed an order with Moss today 8/30/10. As it turned out the part from Moss was on back order. When I check my mail today, 8/30/10, Kay Lenschow had sent the T-nuts that I needed! Don Lenschow's memory will go on in the cars we drive! John Spaur From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 30 21:13:00 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:13:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7C733C.100@comcast.net> Have someone pump the pedal while you watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If it goes up when the pedal goes down the fluid replenishment seal is shot. If not, it's either the master or slave seal leaking, or the flex line is ballooning out (will probably have to watch it from underneath--obviously if it's swelling you'll have to replace it). If the cylinders are aluminum--if original they will be--you should not hone them. The barrels are hardened and if you hone you'll destroy the hardened surface. If they're not pitted you can reuse them, but if there's any doubt replace them while you've got them out. This is not a terrible job; if you get stuck ask the List--there are some real pros on here. The worst job is the slave cyl--you'll have to get at it from underneath or remove the transmission tunnel. Be very careful not to mangle or crossthread the fittings. Best to use flare nut wrenches if you have them. bs CAWS52803 at aol.com wrote: > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid > cylinders. > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > Any suggestions or help? > > Rudy in NC > _______________________________________________ > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Aug 30 21:14:50 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:14:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> Message-ID: Rudy - You can't hone the slave cylinder - it is aluminum with a specially treated hardened interior surface. If you hone it, it will only last for a few months. If the interior surface is worn, the only solution is either to get a new slave cylinder or have your old one sleeved with a Stainless Steel insert. Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder? I find just getting a new slave cylinder and putting it on is the best and easiest way to go. And not too expensive. Alan On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:29 AM, wrote: > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid > cylinders. > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > Any suggestions or help? From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 30 21:15:15 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:15:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Don Lenschow - Pennies from heaven In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100830192804.01ff68c0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100830192804.01ff68c0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C7C73C3.4000308@comcast.net> Looks like Kay is doing her best to make good ... she followed up on a request I made before Don died, but I had already gotten the parts elsewhere. bs john spaur wrote: > I knew that one day I would need the stainless steel seat rail T-nuts > Don made but it was way in the future. When I heard of his passing I > was kicking myself for not ordering them. > > Then I heard that you could still order parts until the inventory was > gone. I order the T-nuts quite sometime ago and when they did not come > I just figured they were gone so I placed an order with Moss today > 8/30/10. > > As it turned out the part from Moss was on back order. > > When I check my mail today, 8/30/10, Kay Lenschow had sent the T-nuts > that I needed! > > Don Lenschow's memory will go on in the cars we drive! > > John Spaur > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Aug 30 22:02:43 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 00:02:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> Message-ID: Rudy, Make sure the clutch slave hose hasn't just gone soft causing it to balloon instead of passing the fluid along the line. You may just need a new clutch slave hose. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 10:29 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid > cylinders. > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > Any suggestions or help? > > Rudy in NC > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 31 00:37:18 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 08:37:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> References: <818bc.3c596dbc.39adc306@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C7CA31E.5090109@chello.nl> This is a fairly straight forward DIY job. Take out master and slave cilinder, dismantle, clean and inspect them. If some crud is present in the bores you can polish this away using some metal polish or very careful use of some flower paper. Make sure you do not destroy the anodized surface layer as this may affect durability. (Although I have honed aluminium master cylinders in the past without any ill effects, lasting for years). Rebuild using new seals using brake lubricant or clean brake fluid and renew the hose. If in doubt renew all parts, they are cheap items. It is no use just to inspect and replace one part, as the other parts will be in a similar condition. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Aug 31 01:16:49 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 31 Aug 2010 09:16:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?airtightproductions=2Ecom?= Message-ID: Thanks, Gary, now it's working ... Eric > Steven, > > the link in your mail below doesn't work (for me). > www.airtightproductions.com not found (do you mean www.airtight-productions.com) my ie asks me. If > I click on www.airtight-productions.com I get a page only saying 'Airtight > Hosting' with nothing to click on. > > Eric > Try avoiding the hyphen next time. www.airtightproductions.com worked for me: "...a full service video production company." But I typed it in, rather than clicking or cutting and pasting. Click on "products" to find the Healey Bonneville video. Cheers Gary From timwarduk at aol.com Tue Aug 31 08:17:37 2010 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:17:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 Message-ID: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Hi List Setting off on Thursday for the start of this year's EuroClassic. Starts In Nurburg with a run up to Bonn and back via a town having a Wine festival that day. Next day we drive the old Ring for a couple of laps if we want, and then to Erfurt through lovely countryside. Then to Prague via Colditz Castle and another circuit. Rest day in Prague to see the sights. After which it is off to Ceske Budejovice, via the Brno circuit. After that we drive to Kitzbuhel, but before leaving the Czech Republic we visit a small town called Cesky Krumlov, which is a World Heritage town. Also visiting the Abbey Admont and the Salzburgring Circuit. On to Merano in Italy via the Grossglockner Pass and Lake Misurina. On the final day it is off to Lindau on Lake Constance via the Stelvio Pass and Davos. How about that for a terrific route. Any Listers also doing the run I would be very happy to meet and share a beer or two with. After I shall put a bunch of pictures on my web site, just to make you all envious! Tim BJ8 '67 Frogeye '59 Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk www.Shuttermagic.co.uk www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 31 09:31:40 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 08:31:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Indirect comment on ZDDP Message-ID: <4C7D205C.2020809@comcast.net> I know we've beat this to death, but the first item on this page has an interesting comment, apparently alluding to the removal of ZDDP from oil. http://www.spokane.net/help_yourself/HelpYourselfContent.aspx?ContentCol=DrGizmo bs ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Aug 31 10:28:19 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 12:28:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 In-Reply-To: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Message-ID: <20100831122819.RJC9A.133550.root@pamxwww03-z01> You just had to do it, didn't you?:) Now I's so envious I can't stand it. But---when a group of us went with our Healey's in 01, we probably covered some of the areas you mentioned. Right Skip and Alex? Enjoy. tom ---- Tim Ward wrote: ============= Hi List Setting off on Thursday for the start of this year's EuroClassic. Starts In Nurburg with a run up to Bonn and back via a town having a Wine festival that day. Next day we drive the old Ring for a couple of laps if we want, and then to Erfurt through lovely countryside. Then to Prague via Colditz Castle and another circuit. Rest day in Prague to see the sights. After which it is off to Ceske Budejovice, via the Brno circuit. After that we drive to Kitzbuhel, but before leaving the Czech Republic we visit a small town called Cesky Krumlov, which is a World Heritage town. Also visiting the Abbey Admont and the Salzburgring Circuit. On to Merano in Italy via the Grossglockner Pass and Lake Misurina. On the final day it is off to Lindau on Lake Constance via the Stelvio Pass and Davos. How about that for a terrific route. Any Listers also doing the run I would be very happy to meet and share a beer or two with. After I shall put a bunch of pictures on my web site, just to make you all envious! Tim BJ8 '67 Frogeye '59 Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk www.Shuttermagic.co.uk www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Tue Aug 31 11:15:07 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 10:15:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] intermittent OD In-Reply-To: <2c215.1ac85fa9.39a98eb4@aol.com> Message-ID: <490773.50066.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I recall using a brass screw without putting threads in the hole. Some recommend a nylon screw. As the plunger operates on magnetic pull, one does want to avoid steel. (I have never verified the effect of magnetism and avoided the possible research effort). I recall putting a nut on both sides of the hole giving adjustment to plunger fall. --- On Fri, 8/27/10, Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] intermittent OD To: rantal243 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, August 27, 2010, 2:57 PM The old timers like Malcom Terry taught us to tap the hole and run a machine screw up through the bottom to act as a stop. Worked for me! Jim Werner In a message dated 8/27/2010 5:34:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rantal243 at yahoo.com writes: Thanks for all the suggestions provided last week regarding the problem I was having with the OD on my BJ8. I've read in a few places and someone mentioned that a 1/8th inch thick rubber bumper should be located somewhere under the OD plunger that lifts the rod that activats the OD. I can't find this rubber piece in the parts manual. Is this a home made fix and if so, exactly where is this rubber piece placed and how is it secured in place? Thanks much. rich antal _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv at aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Aug 31 11:31:37 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 10:31:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 In-Reply-To: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> References: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Message-ID: wow!!!!!! On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 7:17 AM, Tim Ward wrote: > Hi List > > Setting off on Thursday for the start of this year's EuroClassic. Starts In > Nurburg with a run up to Bonn and back via a town having a Wine festival > that day. Next day we drive the old Ring for a couple of laps if we want, > and then to Erfurt through lovely countryside. Then to Prague via Colditz > Castle and another circuit. Rest day in Prague to see the sights. After > which it is off to Ceske Budejovice, via the Brno circuit. After that we > drive to Kitzbuhel, but before leaving the Czech Republic we visit a small > town called Cesky Krumlov, which is a World Heritage town. Also visiting > the Abbey Admont and the Salzburgring Circuit. On to Merano in Italy via > the > Grossglockner Pass and Lake Misurina. On the final day it is off to Lindau > on Lake Constance via the Stelvio Pass and Davos. > > > > How about that for a terrific route. > > > > Any Listers also doing the run I would be very happy to meet and share a > beer or two with. > > > > After I shall put a bunch of pictures on my web site, just to make you all > envious! > > > > Tim > > BJ8 '67 > > Frogeye '59 > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 31 12:01:30 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:01:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting Message-ID: <4C7D437A.1020209@comcast.net> http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/08/29/MT6K1F4N7C.DTL&type=autos -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 31 12:37:56 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 20:37:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 In-Reply-To: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> References: <005e01cb4917$44da6530$ce8f2f90$@com> Message-ID: <4C7D4C04.6000004@chello.nl> Tim, That is a very nice trip indeed. Forget the Nurburgring, important site but not very exciting. A real treat are the Grossglocknerstrasse and pass and the Stelvio pass, absolutely terrific. I hope you will have nice weather when driving there, with the sun shining it is unsurpassed. Enjoy. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] From mbuggy at gmail.com Tue Aug 31 13:38:10 2010 From: mbuggy at gmail.com (mark buggy) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 12:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question Message-ID: My short BJ8 hydraulic clutch story: 1. Leaking clutch slave hose - I pulled and replaced, and bled clutch 2. New slave hose pressurized old slave cylinder and caused it to leak - I pulled and rebuilt, replaced, and bled clutch 3. New slave hose and new slave cylinder caused old master cylinder to leak - I pulled and rebuilt and replaced, and bled clutch Also i can't help but to add this separate advice. Buy a new flexible oil line that connects the engine to the oil pressure guage. Moss part number 021-711. $16. A while back I found mine needing replacing after i pulled into my driveway and saw a line of oil in the street trailing me into my driveway. Easy replacement, takes about 15-30 min depending on beer or not. Mark '67 BJ8 From warthodson at aol.com Tue Aug 31 13:58:43 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:58:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] intermittent OD In-Reply-To: <490773.50066.qm@web53004.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD175E0C64A531-1AF4-15AF@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> My BJ7/8 parts book shows an adjustment screw (#27H2413) & locknut (#FNN204). It also shows rubber stop (#17H5811). Both seem to serve the same purpose. My BJ8 overdrive came with the adjustment screw & locknut. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Jim LeBlanc jim_leblanc at yahoo.com I recall using a brass screw without putting threads in the hole. Some ecommend a nylon screw. As the plunger operates on magnetic pull, one does ant to avoid steel. (I have never verified the effect of magnetism and voided the possible research effort). recall putting a nut on both sides of the hole giving adjustment to plunger all. rom: Jwhlyadv at aol.com ubject: Re: [Healeys] intermittent OD o: rantal243 at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net ate: Friday, August 27, 2010, 2:57 PM he old timers like Malcom Terry taught us to tap the hole and run a achine screw up through the bottom to act as a stop. Worked for me! Jim Werner = From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Tue Aug 31 14:10:42 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 20:10:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting In-Reply-To: <4C7D437A.1020209@comcast.net> References: <4C7D437A.1020209@comcast.net> Message-ID: Oh-oh! At the bottom of that article, they encourage people to email in a few paragraphs about their car. > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:01:30 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > > http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/08/29/MT6K1F4N7C.DTL&ty pe=autos > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From jpayne at ThorCon.net Tue Aug 31 14:16:17 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 13:16:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If it's any consolation, I just went through the same exercise on a 61 jag a couple months ago, only to be followed with the similar chain of failures on the same car's braking system more recently. (Started with booster, then hoses, then went to M. Cyl, and then both rear calipers) The process is designed to save $ on parts, but ends up taking a lot of time and waaaaay to much hydraulic fluid. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 My short BJ8 hydraulic clutch story: 1. Leaking clutch slave hose - I pulled and replaced, and bled clutch 2. New slave hose pressurized old slave cylinder and caused it to leak - I pulled and rebuilt, replaced, and bled clutch 3. New slave hose and new slave cylinder caused old master cylinder to leak - I pulled and rebuilt and replaced, and bled clutch "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 31 15:34:31 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:34:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting In-Reply-To: References: <4C7D437A.1020209@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C7D7567.8030006@justbrits.com> << At the bottom of that article, they encourage people to email in a few paragraphs about their car. >> It would take YOU several WEEKS to fulfill their request, RD !! From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 31 15:40:35 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:40:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C7D76D3.10109@justbrits.com> << If it's any consolation, I just went through the same exercise on a 61 jag a couple months ago, only to be followed with the similar chain of failures on the same car's braking system more recently. (Started with booster, then hoses, then went to M. Cyl, and then both rear calipers) >> SOP Jonas, SOP !!!! Normal as dirt !! << The process is designed to save $ on parts, >> NOT gonna happen !!! !! << but ends up taking a lot of time and waaaaay to much hydraulic fluid. >> Wouldn't if you were using an eeZbleed !!!! Ed From jeff at pellfam.com Tue Aug 31 16:05:47 2010 From: jeff at pellfam.com (Jeff Pelletier) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:05:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> I know it's a jag question but "their all the same!!" Ive having troble with a triple weber conversion on a 69 jag.... Im about 30 degress advanced.. which I think is quite a bit??.. but it the best place it seems to run with the webers... I was told they like advance... but I didn't know that much??.. anyway.... the carbs have a slight (annoying) cough just as you slowly put your foot down... I believe its coming out of 2 of the 3 carbs... I cant shake it... any ideas....?? idle is OK not great.. little shake... but when u step on it.... LIFE IS GOOD.... plenty of power and the sound is almost as good as a Healey!!... Thanks Jp From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Aug 31 17:00:00 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:00:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? In-Reply-To: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> References: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> Message-ID: <952C9B75-D145-4946-9222-5F0E5CA0E248@gmail.com> Jeff, It's pretty rare to take a set of webers out of the box and get them to work perfectly. There are 2 routes you can take to initially set up webers if you have never done so before. One way is to read a pile of books, pull your webers apart, understand how they work, get a range of setings from other people with similar spec engines, buy the chokes/mains/ idles/ air correctors etc you think, fit and test. Then troubleshoot according to symptoms, buy more different sized mains/ idles/ airs etc. 6 of each are required. And keep going by trial and error. The other way is to find a guy with a dyno and exhaust gas analyser, who knows webers. He can set them up, test accurately, change mains airs etc until it's right, then he'll charge you for his time, dyno time and the mains/ airs etc he ended up leaving in your car when you drove away (he won't charge you for the ones he tried and which didn't work) When you consider one set of 6 airs, or 6 mains etc costs around $120- $150 per set; and you might go up a size on mains, then up one more size; then down a size on airs, then change pumps... Etc etc trying to get it right... You can very easily end up with $1,000 worth of idles/ mains/ airs etc sitting on your garage bench at home and a car that still doesn't idle, or fluffs around 3,000 rpm on transition from idles to mains.... The beauty of webers is they are almost infinitley adjustable. You can e.g. richen by changing airs, or by changing mains etc. But the problem with anything that gives you that many options is you need to know what you are doing, and to be able to measure the effect of the changes. An su has a needle. That's pretty much it. And one SU feeds 2 or 3 cylinders There are around 6 things you can usually change on a weber. At one choke per cylinder (ie x6) you can see trial and error can become expensive at home... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 01/09/2010, at 8:05 AM, "Jeff Pelletier" wrote: > I know it's a jag question but "their all the same!!" Ive having > troble > with a triple weber conversion on a 69 jag.... Im about 30 degress > advanced.. which I think is quite a bit??.. but it the best place it > seems to run with the webers... I was told they like advance... but I > didn't know that much??.. anyway.... the carbs have a slight > (annoying) cough just as you slowly put your foot down... I believe > its > coming out of 2 of the 3 carbs... I cant shake it... any ideas....?? > idle is OK not great.. little shake... but when u step on it.... LIFE > IS GOOD.... plenty of power and the sound is almost as good as a > Healey!!... From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Aug 31 19:50:54 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 21:50:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question Message-ID: <000601cb4978$1daf4500$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> >From which side does one drive the trunk hinge pins out. Its hard to tell by sight. This is for the installation of a luggage rack. Mark From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 31 20:59:57 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:59:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Largest model train set in the world Message-ID: <011901cb4981$c31ede20$495c9a60$@verizon.net> Absolutely no Healey content and, realistically, a commercial. This is the most amazing model train set/diorama/you name it that I have ever seen. If you are not interested, sobeit. If you are, prepare to be amazed. http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/exhibit/video/4-minutes-wunderland/ John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 31 21:02:25 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:02:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: [Spridgets] Good read] Message-ID: <4C7DC241.5040404@justbrits.com> This is a great read !! Enjoy !! -------- Original Message -------- Nice article about slow cars http://tinyurl.com/2cl53te _______________________________________________ From theswed at hotmail.com Tue Aug 31 21:21:18 2010 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 20:21:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump Message-ID: Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I gave the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing a second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel pump? If so, where can I get one? Kenny 61 BT-7 From gmandas at yahoo.com Tue Aug 31 21:48:56 2010 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 20:48:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question Message-ID: <353241.41928.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I took the hinges off the trunk to remove the lid . Why separate the hinges ? Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:50 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: >From which side does one drive the trunk hinge pins out. Its hard to tell by sight. This is for the installation of a luggage rack. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Aug 31 22:02:26 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 21:02:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? In-Reply-To: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> References: <996175EC2B763240BC9AD0D0C2DC1B6E150548@jeffsbs02.pellfam.local> Message-ID: <001d01cb498a$7d5b21b0$78116510$@ca> Hi Jeff, Weber's are tough to tune....a bit of a circular function as you tune things. However, when you do get them going they're great. The coughing you are referring to is often referred to as "Spitting" and occurs when the carbs are burning lean. If this happens when you start putting the foot down, it could be a number of things but likely either the idle jet or the chokes are not lined up evenly with the progression tubes. It is the combination of the idle jet and the progression tubes that control mixture at the lower rpm. Before you do anything, make certain that all six chokes are perfectly synchronized. They have to come off idle and through the progression tubes together.....very important. Suggest you get a couple of books on tuning webers.....and some help. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Pelletier Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 3:06 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? I know it's a jag question but "their all the same!!" Ive having troble with a triple weber conversion on a 69 jag.... Im about 30 degress advanced.. which I think is quite a bit??.. but it the best place it seems to run with the webers... I was told they like advance... but I didn't know that much??.. anyway.... the carbs have a slight (annoying) cough just as you slowly put your foot down... I believe its coming out of 2 of the 3 carbs... I cant shake it... any ideas....?? idle is OK not great.. little shake... but when u step on it.... LIFE IS GOOD.... plenty of power and the sound is almost as good as a Healey!!... Thanks Jp _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 31 22:22:09 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 23:22:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question In-Reply-To: <000601cb4978$1daf4500$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000601cb4978$1daf4500$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4C7DD4F1.3020904@justbrits.com> From gstigen at msn.com Tue Aug 31 22:29:35 2010 From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen) Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 21:29:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question In-Reply-To: <353241.41928.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <353241.41928.qm@web56108.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: They are separated for the luggage rack to bolt on. Geno '53 BN1,63 BJ7& 67 BJ8 > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 20:48:56 -0700 > From: gmandas at yahoo.com > To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > CC: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question > > I took the hinges off the trunk to remove the lid . Why separate the hinges ? > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. > > > On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:50 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > > >From which side does one drive the trunk hinge pins out. Its hard to tell by > sight. This is for > the installation of a luggage rack. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com From shop at justbrits.com Tue Aug 31 22:48:15 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 23:48:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question Message-ID: <4C7DDB0F.6000501@justbrits.com> Mark, I have seen BOTH directions !! So yer gonna have to trust yer eyeballs !! Just TAP to start with. Also see them in my "House of Horrors" !! Ed