From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 00:11:28 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 01:11:28 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401071128.664E62E022@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those firstly faint glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 1 00:44:30 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:44:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB44EDE.7080501@chello.nl> Why bother, just fit an electric fan to the radiator, thermostaticly controlled with a manual override switch. This will solve the overheating problems in dense traffic. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist schreef: > Seems to me you could put some computer 12 volt ventilation fans near > the top of the wheel well and that could do a lot to remove hot air as > it rises under the bonnet. > > Ray Carbone wrote: > >> Hi Perry, >> Although I do like the look of the fender vents, the idea of implementing a >> few out and downward facing louvers on the top of the wheel well to improve >> air flow and reduce high pressure within the engine compartment would be an >> effort I can handle. The thought is that this modification would capitalize >> on the low pressure created within the well to extract heat while reducing >> engine compartment pressure and, therefore, will improve air flow and >> cooling >> system efficiency. This alteration is relatively inconspicuous and easily >> reversible (with a panel) making the effort and cost of this project >> substantially lower than implementing fender vents. The concept seems well >> proven with many vintage racing examples, however, I am a little concerned >> that none were Healeys and was hopping that the list could provide some >> experiences. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 1 00:50:58 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:50:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Thumbscrew threads In-Reply-To: References: <4BB3F368.4070708@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BB45062.5030107@chello.nl> If it were that simple. SMITHS used at least three or four different thread sizes on their gauges. I have no idea what, exept they also used one, wait for it, metric one. I have many spare nuts, but I always have to try a few to find a fitting one. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist schreef: > Bob - > > All that stuff on smith's guages is BA threading. Thinking about the studs > on the back of the gauges, my guess is the thumbscrews are probably 3 or 4 > BA size. the thumbscrews can be bought from a multitude of suppliers for > small money: > > http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/shop_factory_hazel/index1.html > > Bob Spidell wrote: > > >> Anyone know the size and thread of the studs on the back of Smiths speedos, >> tachs, etc. (the ones that hold the clamps to the backside of the panel)? >> We have--ahem--'aftermarket' screws intalled by a PO on our BN2's speedo, >> and I'd like to get back closer to original; I have new thumbscrews but they >> don't fit any screws in my inventory (looks like size 8 but the thread is >> not 32tpi--24tpi maybe?). >> >> TIA, From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Apr 1 04:45:37 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 13:45:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Message-ID: <9974C59E69114DAC81BDC0E89AA296EF@tm> Well, that was me - here it goes, attached. John, please update it on the website. Selfishly, I did it only for the late BN2, but a lot is there, and there - I presume another 30% needs to be added to complement it to full 100 nut & bolt catalog. I copied the information from the Part's catalog which I scanned and OCR'ed. I believe it was the AKD870 edition. The lines in gray are showing PN's not identified. Best, Tadek [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 1 05:08:46 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 08:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: <9974C59E69114DAC81BDC0E89AA296EF@tm> References: <9974C59E69114DAC81BDC0E89AA296EF@tm> Message-ID: <007401cad194$15409740$3fc1c5c0$@net> Site updated. Thanks, Tadek! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl] Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 7:46 AM To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt'; 'John Harper'; 'Alan Seigrist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Well, that was me - here it goes, attached. John, please update it on the website. Selfishly, I did it only for the late BN2, but a lot is there, and there - I presume another 30% needs to be added to complement it to full 100 nut & bolt catalog. I copied the information from the Part's catalog which I scanned and OCR'ed. I believe it was the AKD870 edition. The lines in gray are showing PN's not identified. Best, Tadek From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 08:16:04 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 08:16:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: References: <4BAE8461.3060309@comcast.net> <4BAEE5A5.9060402@comcast.net> Message-ID: The muffler shop welded my flex sections to the muffler. Maybe your motor mounts are old and causing extra engine flex and movement that is is being transferred to the pipes.... On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:33 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I wonder if the flex sections of the down pipes could be too stiff, maybe > rusted tight. That might cause relative motion between the flanges. > Bill Lawrence > > > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:14:13 -0700 > > From: bspidell at comcast.net > > To: healey.nut at gmail.com > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > > > Good thought, Alan. I haven't torqued them too hard--afraid of > > stripping the studs. Good idea to use a torque wrench--hadn't thought > > of that. > > > > bs > > > > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: > > > Bob - > > > > > > I don't think the nuts are supposed to be torqued all that tight, no > > > more than 30 ft-lbs. Really just enough to compress lightly and get a > > > good seal. Could this be your problem? > > > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > ******************************************************************* > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 1 08:34:03 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:34:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1906621254.2683681270136043987.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Another good data point. A Lister--who replied to me privately--informed me that the original BN1 downpipes had a 1/4" extension into the manifold, presumably to keep the gaskets from taking the brunt of the hot exhaust gases. I think the best solution is to weld a collar into the downpipe flanges to keep exhaust gas from burning through the inside edge of the gasket. I'll use sealant and make sure the flex joints are flexing as well. Lots of good info from the List. I think the downpipe collar/extension is the most liable to give a lasting solution, but I'll be checking flanges, flex unions, motor mounts, and all the other suggestions. Thanks to all who replied, Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA . The muffler shop welded my flex sections to the muffler. Maybe your motor mounts are old and causing extra engine flex and movement that is is being transferred to the pipes.... On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:33 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE < ynotink at msn.com > wrote: I wonder if the flex sections of the down pipes could be too stiff, maybe rusted tight. That might cause relative motion between the flanges. Bill Lawrence From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Apr 1 09:19:38 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 12:19:38 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? Message-ID: Just got this e-mail from evert45 at home.nl Anybody know anything about this car? Hi Gary, I am a member of the Dutch Healey Club and bought an Austin Healey 3000 MK I, BT7, a couple of months ago that came from the US. Unfortunately the guy that sold me the car was not willing to give me the name of the previous owner; he obviously only wants to make money by selling some Healeys to the Netherlands. My car is H-BT7-L/7554, bodynumber 7738. I wonder if you would by chance have that car somewhere in your register/records. If not would you have any suggestion where I could find a registry of my car? The car was last registered/owned under the name of Thomas Lester McArthur that used to live at 300 Greystone Ter Apt, San Fransisco. Unfortunately I did not find any information on that address in the White or Yellow Pages. Hope you can give me some help or information! Thanks in advance! Regards, Evert Jan de Bruin Vaartweg 27 bs Gravenmoer, Netherlands. From jstmorris at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 09:27:59 2010 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:27:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <844717.76531.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Or check out the file at John Sims site:http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/BMC%20Std%20Parts%20Fasteners.pdf or http://tinyurl.com/yc525pl And the glorious sound is back on. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 3/31/10, Heal;ey wrote: From: Heal;ey Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter To: "Guy R Day" , "Alan Seigrist" , "Healey" , "John Harper" Received: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 6:47 PM Try This site http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/BMC_fasteners.pdf Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Guy R Day" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:48 AM To: "Alan Seigrist" ; "Healey" ; "John Harper" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Alan, There is a BMC Fastener Decode booklet, part number, AKD2239 which is a 12 page PDF. It only covers UNC, washers and UNF but I can forward a copy of that if you wish. I can't recall where I downloaded it from, sorry. Guy R Day > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:16 PM Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter All - Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and screws. The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. Many thanks, Alan __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Apr 1 10:45:24 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:45:24 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips at aol.com writes: > Editor Gary: > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer > > > -----Original Message----- > > As I read his e-mail, he wants to know who owned it in the U.S. and/or a way to get in touch with the most recent owner. Though I live in the San Fran area, I don't recall ever having met anyone by the name that he gave. I thought someone else might, or might recognize the VIN number. Cheers Gary From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Apr 1 14:33:15 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 17:33:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB5111B.5030007@earthlink.net> The car was not listed in the (US) 3000 MkI registry. Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > Just got this e-mail from evert45 at home.nl > Anybody know anything about this car? > Hi Gary, > I am a member of the Dutch Healey Club and bought an Austin Healey 3000 MK > I, BT7, a couple of months ago that came from the US. Unfortunately the guy > that sold me the car was not willing to give me the name of the previous > owner; he obviously only wants to make money by selling some Healeys to the > Netherlands. > My car is H-BT7-L/7554, bodynumber 7738. I wonder if you would by chance > have that car somewhere in your register/records. If not would you have any > suggestion where I could find a registry of my car? > The car was last registered/owned under the name of Thomas Lester McArthur > that used to live at 300 Greystone Ter Apt, San Fransisco. Unfortunately I > did not find any information on that address in the White or Yellow Pages. > Hope you can give me some help or information! > Thanks in advance! > Regards, > Evert Jan de Bruin > Vaartweg 27 > bs Gravenmoer, Netherlands. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 1 14:43:43 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 17:43:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Message-ID: <7F1AF49C11C34E5B8298E05764F3477E@LIFEBOOK> From: Rich C Okay, it's a deal. One of these decades when I have some spare time........... Rich From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 8:48 PM To: Heal,ey Cc: Guy R Day ; Alan Seigrist ; Healey ; John Harper ; Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Listers, I feel we're going around in circles here. The charts that everyone is offering forth are the codes for UNF fasteners that we've known about for years. What has not been done yet to my knowledge is for someone while they are restoring a 100 to document all the BSF and associated Whitworth fasteners with their associated Austin Part number as listed in the parts book. This document will be of interest and help to those restoring a BN1 or 2. Therefore, the next person (Rich Chrysler) restoring a BN1, preferably and early one, like a '53 (Rich Chrysler) is hereby tasked with documenting all BSF and associated Whitworth fasteners. Maybe someone on the Concours Committee (Rich Chrysler) with a good attention to detail. The vendor name on the head and a photo of the fastener would be nice too, so this person should be familiar with taking detailed photos (Rich Chrysler.) Does anyone have any ideas who we could nominate? (Rich Chrysler ;-) Cheers... with my apologies to Rich in advance. Curt From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 1 14:45:08 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 17:45:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Windshield Install on BT7 Message-ID: <3A63A9FBDCC94FB797D7B2DC3CE5532C@LIFEBOOK> -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rich C" > Mark, > > 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint > brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering > just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface > is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. > I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad fitted. > That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the forward > corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch the dash > pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. > The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base > of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll > under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so > it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an > assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon > cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit > of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure > so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the dash > pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget the > windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain this > pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a body > holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post hole > and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims may > be needed between post and body for best fit. > > 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. > Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in > relation to the windscreen post pads. > > Hope this helps. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark LaPierre" >> I am trying to get the windshield installed permanently. >> >> Whats the secret ................ From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 15:48:06 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:48:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS Message-ID: <579350.68235.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received my APrill issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received about a week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave 2010. TODAY I received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks ago. Both ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being caught in a machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative delivry system. Bob (30 miles west of Chicago not like out in the boonies) From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 1 15:51:20 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 18:51:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 References: <000601cad13b$3611eae0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <133F902060EF4880B6418084C33602D3@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <000801cad1ed$d989c6e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> big help, HUGE help, ELEPHANT SIZE help. Good stuff Richard. Thanks. Last detaily question. There is a small space in the pedestal bottom, should I run the new seal under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it. If the seal isn't sitting under the pedestal then it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down , obviously , but if that isn't correct then I won't do it. Thanks, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "Mark LaPierre" ; Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > Mark, > > 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint > brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering > just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface > is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. > I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad fitted. > That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the forward > corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch the dash > pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. > The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base > of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll > under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so > it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an > assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon > cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit > of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure > so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the dash > pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget the > windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain this > pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a body > holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post hole > and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims may > be needed between post and body for best fit. > > 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. > Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in > relation to the windscreen post pads. > > Hope this helps. > > Rich From javrugtman at htcnet.org Thu Apr 1 17:09:14 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:09:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS In-Reply-To: <579350.68235.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <579350.68235.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BB535AA.6060408@htcnet.org> Hay, I got mine yesterday as well, and I do live in the boonies. JAV Hightown, VA On 4/1/2010 6:48 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received my APrill > issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received about a > week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave 2010. TODAY I > received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks ago. Both > ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being caught in a > machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative delivry > system. From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Apr 1 21:48:28 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:48:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000701cad21f$bd080900$37181b00$@rr.com> The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust records and their Heritage certificates are generally useless for tracing the ownership history of a car. From the evidence of 679 certificates in the BJ8 registry files, the only ones that identify (sometimes) the original dealer's name are the ones for UK Home market cars. I have never seen a certificate for a car delivered to the USA that gives a dealer's name. The city identified on the certs is not necessarily the city where the car first sold new, but only the Port of Entry. From there, a car could have been trucked anywhere for its first sale. My BJ8 was delivered to Charleston, South Carolina but sold new in Raleigh, North Carolina -- another state and 300 miles away from Charleston. Certificates for cars that were "Personal Export Delivery" sometimes give the original owner's name. It's getting harder to trace the history of a car due to the mobility of the population, combined with the fact that there is no central location for documenting and preserving the ownership history of a car except the registries. Anyone who wants some future owner of his car to know he existed and had the pleasure of owning the car should enter the car into the appropriate registry. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:45 AM To: akronzips at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips at aol.com writes: > Editor Gary: > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 1 18:57:41 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:57:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 In-Reply-To: <000801cad1ed$d989c6e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000601cad13b$3611eae0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <133F902060EF4880B6418084C33602D3@LIFEBOOK> <000801cad1ed$d989c6e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <735AD21403714F3390F6E8DAA08C0AE6@LIFEBOOK> Mark, No, the seal needs to pinch slightly under the base. If it stops short it will, over time, leave a gap there. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 6:51 PM To: "Rich C" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > big help, HUGE help, ELEPHANT SIZE help. Good stuff Richard. Thanks. > > Last detaily question. There is a small space in the pedestal bottom, > should I run the new seal > under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it. If the seal > isn't sitting under the pedestal then > it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down , obviously , > but if that isn't correct then > I won't do it. > > Thanks, Mark > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rich C" > To: "Mark LaPierre" ; > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > > >> Mark, >> >> 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint >> brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering >> just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface >> is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. >> I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad >> fitted. That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the >> forward corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch >> the dash pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. >> The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base >> of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll >> under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so >> it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an >> assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon >> cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit >> of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure >> so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the >> dash pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget >> the windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain >> this pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a >> body holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post >> hole and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims >> may be needed between post and body for best fit. >> >> 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. >> Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in >> relation to the windscreen post pads. >> >> Hope this helps. >> >> Rich From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 19:42:41 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:42:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS In-Reply-To: <579350.68235.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <579350.68235.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It takes mail folk a while to read each issue before delivery I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 1, 2010, at 3:48 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received > my APrill > issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received > about a > week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave > 2010. TODAY I > received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks > ago. Both > ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being > caught in a > machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative > delivry > system. > Bob (30 miles west of Chicago not like out in the boonies) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From gstigen at msn.com Thu Apr 1 20:52:27 2010 From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 20:52:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In-Reply-To: <000701cad21f$bd080900$37181b00$@rr.com> References: , <000701cad21f$bd080900$37181b00$@rr.com> Message-ID: So, in my case my '67,HBJ8L/41329, which I bought from the original owner in 1979,who ordered it new while in England in the Navy. Would I be able to get ownership records from Heritage records? I know he was a United Airline pilot& lived Near Seattle, Redondo Beach I think. I'd really like to see if he's still around. cheers Geno > From: sbyers at ec.rr.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:48:28 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? > > The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust records and their Heritage > certificates are generally useless for tracing the ownership history of a > car. From the evidence of 679 certificates in the BJ8 registry files, the > only ones that identify (sometimes) the original dealer's name are the ones > for UK Home market cars. I have never seen a certificate for a car > delivered to the USA that gives a dealer's name. The city identified on the > certs is not necessarily the city where the car first sold new, but only the > Port of Entry. From there, a car could have been trucked anywhere for its > first sale. My BJ8 was delivered to Charleston, South Carolina but sold new > in Raleigh, North Carolina -- another state and 300 miles away from > Charleston. > Certificates for cars that were "Personal Export Delivery" sometimes give > the original owner's name. > > It's getting harder to trace the history of a car due to the mobility of the > population, combined with the fact that there is no central location for > documenting and preserving the ownership history of a car except the > registries. Anyone who wants some future owner of his car to know he > existed and had the pleasure of owning the car should enter the car into the > appropriate registry. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:45 AM > To: akronzips at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? > > In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips at aol.com writes: > > > > Editor Gary: > > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Apr 1 22:23:17 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 22:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite on Pawn Shop Message-ID: <032511FF1E104475803E796626D7F46F@LeonardPCPC> Wife saw a program trailer on History Channel that said that the Sprite will be on Pawn Shop on Monday. Pawn Shop usually runs two half hour shows back to back so I don't know which one it will be. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 04:36:56 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 06:36:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch kit as pictured on page 125 of Anderson/Moment restoration manual Message-ID: i acquired this several years ago on ebay to use for my fog lights, however, since adding AC, i've decided to install a custom engine turned panel where the heater control panel now resides. The Lucas kit does not include switches although it does have the original box and instructions. $65 questions, call me at 214 202-5179 or email me at jerryw at healey.org cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From willig at wtnet.de Fri Apr 2 06:11:20 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 15:11:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 Message-ID: <000601cad265$fcf190e0$f6d4b2a0$@de> Hello, the clutch return spring of the BN1/2 is attached to the clutch lever on one side and to ???? on the other side. Please advise Regards Thomas Willig From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Apr 2 07:03:32 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:03:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In-Reply-To: References: , <000701cad21f$bd080900$37181b00$@rr.com> Message-ID: <001901cad26d$47c2fdf0$d748f9d0$@rr.com> Geno, the archives at BMIHT do not have any information on owners of the cars, except that sometimes (not always) a car that was personally ordered and purchased in England for eventual export to the USA will give the name of the purchaser. Example: "Personal Export Delivery to Mr. J. Nelson, USA". It isn't very likely that you could locate such a person now unless they have a truly unusual name. If you remember or have a record of the name of the original owner, you might have some luck tracking him down via the internet through sites such as zabasearch. If you don't have a name, or it's something like J. Nelson, there isn't much hope. Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gene stigen Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 8:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? So, in my case my '67,HBJ8L/41329, which I bought from the original owner in 1979,who ordered it new while in England in the Navy. Would I be able to get ownership records from Heritage records? I know he was a United Airline pilot& lived Near Seattle, Redondo Beach I think. I'd really like to see if he's still around. cheers Geno From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 2 08:31:54 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 11:31:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 In-Reply-To: <000601cad265$fcf190e0$f6d4b2a0$@de> References: <000601cad265$fcf190e0$f6d4b2a0$@de> Message-ID: Thomas, There is a small bracket that is about 1 1/2" long, with two holes, the larger one for its mounting bolt, and the smaller hole for the return spring. This bracket is fitted to the bell housing mounting bolt that is positioned at about 7 o'clock (lower left area). Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 9:11 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 > Hello, > > > > the clutch return spring of the BN1/2 is attached to the clutch lever on > one > side and to ???? on the other side. > > > > Please advise > > > > Regards > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 09:02:47 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 09:02:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch kit as pictured on page 125 of Anderson/Moment restoration manual In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <756655.54367.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Jerry, Just want to let you know you can get pre-finished engine turned aluminum or stainless from FPMmetals.com. I'm using it as a false firewall on my Nasty Boy (see the link below for pictures). I don't have the skill, tools or time (not retired yet) to do the engine turning on my own, so this was the easiest solution for me. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/2/10, jerry wall wrote: From: jerry wall Subject: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch kit as pictured on page 125 of Anderson/Moment restoration manual To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 7:36 AM i acquired this several years ago on ebay to use for my fog lights, however, since adding AC, i've decided to install a custom engine turned panel where the heater control panel now resides. The Lucas kit does not include switches although it does have the original box and instructions. $65 questions, call me at 214 202-5179 or email me at jerryw at healey.org cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 10:47:07 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 13:47:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gotta Brag (No Healey Content) Message-ID: If you happened to see Pres. Obama on CNN today, he was visiting the plant where our younger daughter works. She was the blond with glasses second person to his left on the front row. She got to shake his hand. She said that the whole visit thing has been fun and an amazingly big deal. Her job in prep was to coordinate the communications infrastructure for the visit. She is IT Director for the company. Smiling Dad Bob Johnson BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 2 11:07:36 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 14:07:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Windshield Install on BT7 Message-ID: <87483AF07F684A8FA24115FDCAC87B6C@LIFEBOOK> Ron, They originally used thin (maybe 1/16") aluminum strips about 1" wide by 5" long that had about 1/2" holes aligned for the lower two bolt holes. These are listed in the Spare Parts List as part number 14B2630, Plate, pillar packing, 2 required, but are not illustrated in the list. Depending on the fitting up of the windscreen assembly to the car, I've seen anywhere from none required up to 3 needed per side. Rich From: Ron Ray Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 9:41 AM To: 'Rich C' ; 'Mark LaPierre' ; healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 Rich, What would you suggest for use as the "packing shims"? Thanks, Ron From willig at wtnet.de Fri Apr 2 12:53:38 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:53:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Message-ID: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de> In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the outline of this jute pad? Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? Please advise Thomas From bruce.silvers at bingham.com Fri Apr 2 13:23:00 2010 From: bruce.silvers at bingham.com (Silvers, Bruce C.) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:23:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trailer Message-ID: If anybody has a Trailex CT-7031 car trailer for sale please contact me. Thanks! ________________________________ Confidentiality Notice: The information in this e-mail (including attachments, if any) is considered confidential and is intended only for the recipient(s) listed above. Any review, use, disclosure, distribution or copying of this e-mail is prohibited except by or on behalf of the intended recipient. If you have received this email in error, please notify me immediately by reply email, delete this email, and do not disclose its contents to anyone. Bingham McCutchen LLP Circular 230 Notice: To ensure compliance with IRS requirements, we inform you that any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this communication is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used by any taxpayer, for the purpose of avoiding any federal tax penalties. Any legal advice expressed in this message is being delivered to you solely for your use in connection with the matters addressed herein and may not be relied upon by any other person or entity or used for any other purpose without our prior written consent. From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 19:02:57 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 02:02:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 rotors Message-ID: Can anyone tell me the actual thickness of a new early 3000 rotor in thousandths of inches. But, I will accept millimeters too. Thanks, Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 2 20:14:16 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 23:14:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 In-Reply-To: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de> References: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de> Message-ID: Thomas, I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to the gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very thin and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any edges. The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and float in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little holes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" > In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the > underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the outline > of this jute pad? > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front > corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? > Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? > Please advise > Thomas [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Hundred details 20031.jpg] From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 21:07:12 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 21:07:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB6BEF0.904@comcast.net> Richard, My shop manual reprint states the following: "Either or both sides may be ground, but no more that 0.040 in. (1.02 mm.) should be removed from each disc, i.e. after grinding the thickness must not be less than 0.335 in. (8.51 mm)." So, whipping out my calculator, that means the disc would be 0.375 in. when new (that's 3/8 in.). That's fairly thin, so I believe it must be for an early (BN7, BT7) rotor. I can't find any thickness spec for a BJ8 disc, but I believe they're closer to a half inch (I have a new one I can measure if you need it). Bob richard mayor wrote: > Can anyone tell me the actual thickness of a new early 3000 rotor in > thousandths of inches. But, I will accept millimeters too. Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 > 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From willig at wtnet.de Sat Apr 3 03:20:48 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:20:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 In-Reply-To: References: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de> Message-ID: <001201cad317$54d193d0$fe74bb70$@de> Rich, Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? Regards Thomas -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 An: T+ B Willig; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Thomas, I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to the gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very thin and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any edges. The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and float in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little holes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" > In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the > underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the > outline of this jute pad? > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front > corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? > Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? > Please advise > Thomas From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Apr 3 04:05:34 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 07:05:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 In-Reply-To: <001201cad317$54d193d0$fe74bb70$@de> References: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de> <001201cad317$54d193d0$fe74bb70$@de> Message-ID: If you can find that in 1/4" thickness, get it. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 6:20 AM To: "'Rich C'" ; Subject: AW: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > Rich, > > Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say > that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? > > Regards > > > Thomas > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] > Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 > An: T+ B Willig; Healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > > Thomas, > > I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to > the > gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very > thin > and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any > edges. > > The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and > float > in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest > removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under > sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go > down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from > below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little > holes. > > Rich > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "T+ B Willig" > >> In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 >> > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the >> underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the >> outline of this jute pad? >> > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front >> corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this >> correct? >> Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? >> > Please advise >> > Thomas From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 04:33:14 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 22:33:14 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Message-ID: <828B7DB2-9C1A-4ED0-B246-1000C06B4459@gmail.com> Hi all, Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey King of the Mountain". Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 and 1970... Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! Chris Dimmock Sent from my iPhone From grday at btinternet.com Sat Apr 3 05:17:17 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 13:17:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 References: <001801cad29e$3019bfa0$904d3ee0$@de><001201cad317$54d193d0$fe74bb70$@de> Message-ID: Most carpet suppliers, especially those who do 'commercial contracts' use this material. It be a better price from them. If you can find one fitting an office block out you'll can get their offcuts for free and have enough for several cars.... Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "T+ B Willig" ; Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > If you can find that in 1/4" thickness, get it. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "T+ B Willig" > Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 6:20 AM > To: "'Rich C'" ; > Subject: AW: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > >> Rich, >> >> Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say >> that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? >> >> Regards >> >> >> Thomas >> >> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- >> Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] >> Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 >> An: T+ B Willig; Healeys at autox.team.net >> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 >> >> Thomas, >> >> I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to >> the >> gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very >> thin >> and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any >> edges. >> >> The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and >> float >> in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest >> removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under >> sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go >> down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from >> below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little >> holes. >> >> Rich >> >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "T+ B Willig" >> >>> In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 >>> >> "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the >>> underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the >>> outline of this jute pad? >>> >> Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front >>> corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this >>> correct? >>> Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? >>> >> Please advise >>> >> Thomas > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From pieters at pt.lu Sat Apr 3 05:42:54 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 14:42:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Message-ID: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> The French have a lot to answer for on this one, http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 Cheers Pieter From bighealey at charter.net Sat Apr 3 05:50:53 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:50:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia In-Reply-To: <828B7DB2-9C1A-4ED0-B246-1000C06B4459@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1780CB8090E94502A99F52285661C834@TRACY> Good on Peter. Wish I were there. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 4:33 AM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Hi all, Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey King of the Mountain". Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 and 1970... Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! Chris Dimmock Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From bighealey at charter.net Sat Apr 3 07:27:52 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 07:27:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> Message-ID: Pieter, Arkleys hahahaha yes these should be very fast with the 1275. I bet it makes a breathtaking ride up a twisty hill climb, lightweight for sure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arkley_(automobile) You have to forgive the French seller though since John Britten Garages workshops at Arkley in the London Borough of Barnet created these through the recycling of old rusty or damaged Austin-Healey Sprites or MG Midgets. I want to "test" drive one, but would be well disguised (grin). Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 5:43 AM To: Healey forum Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite The French have a lot to answer for on this one, http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmd ZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 Cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat Apr 3 08:05:55 2010 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (Mike Brouillette) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 11:05:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Better place to see them is: http://www.arkleyss.com/ From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 09:46:13 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 09:46:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> References: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> Message-ID: its so ugly it's kinda cute Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 5:42 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote: > The French have a lot to answer for on this one, > > > http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 > > Cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Apr 3 10:18:22 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 19:18:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> References: <6279ABA8-414F-43C5-B3F3-D62AEE6436EC@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4BB7785E.6010708@chello.nl> In fact these do handle quite well. In the days that rusted out Spridgets were worthless it was a perfect way to keep it on the road and have a better performing and handling car in the end, lighter, less inertia and best of all less rust to deal with. Kees Oudesluijs NL Pieter and Linda wrote: > The French have a lot to answer for on this one, > > http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 > > > Cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.800 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2787 - datum van uitgifte: 04/03/10 08:32:00 From kentmclean at comcast.net Sat Apr 3 13:22:35 2010 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:22:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> I Erbs wrote: > its so ugly it's kinda cute > > Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa > Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. > http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg Small passenger compartment, very big everything else: I don't know why, but I want one. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 15:19:05 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:19:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> References: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> Message-ID: which, the Clinet or the sprite? either way you need help:) On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 1:22 PM, Kent McLean wrote: > I Erbs wrote: > >> its so ugly it's kinda cute >> >> Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa >> Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. >> http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg >> > > Small passenger compartment, very big everything else: > > > I don't know why, but I want one. > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 15:25:45 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] su filters Message-ID: http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/fuel/under-bonnet-3000 found these on denis Welch web site for both 1 3/4 and 2" carbs -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From scbronson5 at msn.com Sat Apr 3 16:39:27 2010 From: scbronson5 at msn.com (Sid & Maria Bronson) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:39:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters Message-ID: Does anyone have the Denis Welch air filter for the 2 inch HD8s and how do you like them? Are they a simple install, or do they require modifications? Sid, 65 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Sat Apr 3 17:29:28 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 19:29:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: References: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BB7DD68.2010902@justbrits.com> /BnNSBi: Permission denied From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 21:30:51 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 14:30:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia References: <828B7DB2-9C1A-4ED0-B246-1000C06B4459@gmail.com> Message-ID: <110CB48A-F526-4A51-9B0C-CCBCD4FDEC2A@gmail.com> Quick update. Today, Sunday 4th April 2008 Peter Jackson again lowered the Austin Healey Bathurst lap record with a new Healey lap record of 2:41.6554. That means the 12 year old lap record set by Peter Hopwood has now been bettered by over 2.6 seconds in the past 48 hours. As Mt Panorama, Bathurst is only available to cars like ours one weekend a year, Peter's "Healey King of the Mountain" title could well stand for quite a while..... Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Chris Dimmock > Date: 3 April 2010 10:33:14 PM AEDT > To: AustinHealey List > Subject: Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia > > Hi all, > > Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 > Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been > broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of > 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey > King of the Mountain". > > Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA > V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. > Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with > very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy > heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs > The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars > from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s > model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a > couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 > and 1970... > > Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! > > Chris Dimmock > > Sent from my iPhone From acmiller at mhcable.com Sun Apr 4 06:08:52 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:08:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Message-ID: Help! I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts are all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 Healeys with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the joint. How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the castellations. all suggestions appreciated thanks allen miller bn2/m From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Apr 4 07:27:59 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:27:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ball joint cross tube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Allen, The castle nuts should thread smoothly all the way through. Many times the top segments of the castle nut have been backed off and then beaten to (incorrectly) try to release the tapered pin portion from its steering arm. The beating causes the segments to collapse inboard and results in an interference thread when used again. If you're going to reuse these castle nuts, run a suitable tap (yours should be 7/16" NF on the BN2 and later) right down through them to clean up and reshape the female thread until the castle nut can spin right onto the male thread. While you're at it run a suitable sized twist drill through the cotter pin holes in the male threaded portion of the pin, and make sure the possibly collapsed and mushroomed castle segments are clear to run the cotter pin too. A little trick: Note where the cotter pin hole runs through the pin and mark the location on the end of the pin with a small file so you can line up the castle segments with this hole to fit the cotter pin. When installing, make sure the tapered male and female surfaces are clean and dry. Maintain some pressure on the joint assembly to help hold them until the pressure of the castle nut locks the tapers together. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "allen c miller jr" Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:08 AM To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all > the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts > are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 > Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns > apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the > joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? > It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below > the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 08:01:14 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 22:01:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have you tried clamping the ball joint into the trackrod before tightening? A big locking C clamp should do the trick. On 4/4/10, allen c miller jr wrote: > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts > are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 > Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the > joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bn1 at pacbell.net Sun Apr 4 08:51:15 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 07:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <4BB7DD68.2010902@justbrits.com> References: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> <4BB7DD68.2010902@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BB8A763.4070201@pacbell.net> Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? Anon On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > /BnNSBi: Permission denied > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 4 09:14:43 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:14:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BB8ACE3.5040704@chello.nl> Use new castle nuts. The old ones are probably rusted and deformed when the tapered joints were knocked out using a dirty big hammer on the halfway turned out nuts. You are lucky that appearantly the male threads survived. Kees Oudesluijs NL allen c miller jr wrote: > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.800 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2789 - datum van uitgifte: 04/04/10 08:32:00 From ampole at hotmail.com Sun Apr 4 09:26:05 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 15:26:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Allen another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then remove and replace with the castlenut cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sun Apr 4 10:14:58 2010 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:14:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 Message-ID: <6821615.1270397699103.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> submitted by John Voelcker Hey Gang. Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very rare in the US - this one is in Canada. Kind of a British Buick - fun for the whole family - uses the same engine as an Austin Healey 100/six...... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BritCarTalk/attachments/folder/1428163782/item/853065647/view Best, Rick Feibusch BritishCarNetwork Venice, California From mslechta at chartermi.net Sun Apr 4 11:08:58 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:08:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 In-Reply-To: <6821615.1270397699103.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <6821615.1270397699103.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6656847C88E249389FAD6B96F6B49CEA@MikesLaptop> If I were 10 yrs. younger - I'd jump on this. Cheers Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net To: morris_motors at yahoogroups.com ; arcane_autos at yahoogroups.com ; morris at autox.team.net ; british-cars at autox.team.net ; mgs at autox.team.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ; John Voelcker Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:14 AM Subject: [Healeys] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 submitted by John Voelcker Hey Gang. Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very rare in the US - this one is in Canada. Kind of a British Buick - fun for the whole family - uses the same engine as an Austin Healey 100/six...... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BritCarTalk/attachments/folder/1428163782/ite m/853065647/view Best, Rick Feibusch BritishCarNetwork Venice, California _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 11:46:33 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland Again on Speed Message-ID: 2:00 PM EDT on Speed channel a rerun of the Targa Newfoundland again. Don't know from what year and it's only 20 min away. Bob Johnson BJ8 From mslechta at chartermi.net Sun Apr 4 11:52:20 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:52:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland Message-ID: <759DAF612B014C47A17C26E3E4E34BA5@MikesLaptop> All (or those of you that missed it) - Targa Newfoundland is on Speed TV @ 1:00 PM CDT. Cheers Mad Mike From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 4 11:53:19 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars- Sprite Message-ID: OK, I saw the ad for the square body Sprite to be on "Pawn Stars" again this Monday at 10PM (East)- History channel. Maybe it will actually be on this week and I won't look like an fool. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From rnbmail at yahoo.com Sun Apr 4 12:05:10 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Targa NewFoundland - SPEED TV - Now - 11am PST >>> Message-ID: <636232.35265.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> targa rally NOW showing on SPEED 11am pst. 100S running. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 12:09:51 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Targa new foundland re-broadcast right now 11:00 am pst Message-ID: Just saw the Healey go by -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 12:13:29 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:13:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] targa on speed channel Message-ID: -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 12:36:25 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 11:36:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Auto Pictures and More - Non-Healey Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100404113056.01fd23f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> There are some really interesting photos at this web site including the Ferrari that one 2nd in class at Le Mans and 3rd overall in 1962 along with Jaguars Testarossa's and other cars. They are interspersed with other artistic photos. Great site! From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 14:30:09 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:30:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Allen, Oh, and just to be technical they're "Slotted" nuts and not "Castle" or "Castellated" nuts. There is a difference. Cheers, Curt On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:26 AM, andy pole wrote: > Allen > > > another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then > remove and replace with the castlenut > > > cheers Andy From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 14:59:33 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:59:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Auto Pictures and More - Non-Healey w/ link In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100404113056.01fd23f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100404113056.01fd23f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100404135648.01fda020@pop.att.yahoo.com> Gee... Ed wants the link. Just can't keep him happy! http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmphoto Page 25 and 26 for the Ferrari John At 11:36 AM 4/4/2010 -0700, john spaur wrote: >There are some really interesting photos at this web site including >the Ferrari that one 2nd in class at Le Mans and 3rd overall in 1962 >along with Jaguars Testarossa's and other cars. They are >interspersed with other artistic photos. Great site! From grday at btinternet.com Sun Apr 4 17:06:44 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 00:06:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts References: Message-ID: Curt, I'm really going to hate myself for asking - what is the difference? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: "andy pole" Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts > Allen, > > Oh, and just to be technical they're "Slotted" nuts and not "Castle" or > "Castellated" nuts. There is a difference. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:26 AM, andy pole wrote: > >> Allen >> >> >> another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then >> remove and replace with the castlenut >> >> >> cheers Andy > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 4 18:14:04 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:14:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... Message-ID: <493369.71740.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 BN7 From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 4 20:41:05 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:41:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <4BB8A763.4070201@pacbell.net> References: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> <4BB7DD68.2010902@justbrits.com> <4BB8A763.4070201@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <4BB94DC1.7070607@bradakis.com> Mr. Bill wrote: > Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? > > Anon > > On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > >> /BnNSBi: Permission denied >> Actually for some reason Ed likes to send out mail with several font sizes and colors. And this may be hard to believe, but not everyone on the planet has the exact same computer software and hardware as he does. I know the marketing thugs at Microsoft would like you to think otherwise, but so it goes. Apparently when the filter that processes all Team.Net mail is done cleaning up all the useless fluff embedded in Ed's messages, there is nothing left. Oh well. mjb. From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 22:07:55 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:07:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In-Reply-To: <4BB94DC1.7070607@bradakis.com> References: <4BB7A38B.4000006@comcast.net> <4BB7DD68.2010902@justbrits.com> <4BB8A763.4070201@pacbell.net> <4BB94DC1.7070607@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <24B48019-2964-478E-AD98-D885C1130326@gmail.com> Lol I thought it was one of his better posts I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 4, 2010, at 7:41 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Mr. Bill wrote: >> Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? >> >> Anon >> >> On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >> >>> /BnNSBi: Permission denied >>> > > Actually for some reason Ed likes to send out mail with several font > sizes and > colors. And this may be hard to believe, but not everyone on the > planet has the > exact same computer software and hardware as he does. I know the > marketing > thugs at Microsoft would like you to think otherwise, but so it goes. > > Apparently when the filter that processes all Team.Net mail is done > cleaning > up all the useless fluff embedded in Ed's messages, there is > nothing left. > > Oh well. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Apr 4 22:35:38 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:35:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question Message-ID: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers are taken away, the car dies... Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? Paul From larryrph at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 23:09:04 2010 From: larryrph at sbcglobal.net (Lawrence Wysocki) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 22:09:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rania Leventi Message-ID: <993557.65769.qm@web83402.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> http://nortekpumps.com/about/index.html From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 00:00:36 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:00:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> Message-ID: Paul - Your battery may not be bad. If the terminals are corroded, you won't have a complete circuit and the car dies when you pull the jumpers. That's be cause the jumpers are completing the circuit through the other car's battery. Take the battery cables off the battery and run a battery terminal wire cleaner on the terminals and the cable clamps, and reattach. Should fix your problem. Very common problem with a car that isn't driven much. Alan On 4/5/10, PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 00:18:22 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 23:18:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... In-Reply-To: <493369.71740.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <493369.71740.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: IF THAT IS WITH KEITH MARTIN AND THE LISC IS 65 HEALEY THEN THAT IS MY CAR, BRG with tan interior RON rader 1965 BJ8 for sale. On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 5 04:14:50 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 12:14:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> Message-ID: <4BB9B81A.3050809@chello.nl> Paul, The battery should always be connected when running the engine. If not, you may damage the regulator/generator/alternator. In your case it could be a short in the old battery or dirty terminals, broken earth strap, that sort of thing, check first. If that is OK check regulator/generator/alternator. If the battery is kept on a trickle charger it should last about 7-10 years. If not it can be gone within a year or two if the car is not driven regularly. Kees Oudesluijs NL PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 06:40:33 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:40:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: Curt depands on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now From logical2 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 08:01:01 2010 From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Message-ID: I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Mon Apr 5 08:32:05 2010 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:32:05 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Healeys] [Morris] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 Message-ID: <19606300.1270477925847.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Readers, Here is a response from a fellow in New Zealand on that Morris Isis for sale that I posted - rarer than I thought. My friend Peter at Marina Motors does 5-speed conversions on Healeys using Toyota gearboxes that would be a great upgrade - I wonder what disc brakes could be fitted? Happy Hunting - A nice project for someone more ambitious than I.... Rick ******************************** >> Hey Gang. > >> Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very >> rare in the US - this one is in Canada. > >Ohhh! An Isis! >Apart from my '58 Isis and Andrew 'Axeman' Pursey in Australia (a '55 >Isis), this is the first Isis I recall seeing in morris at autox.team.net >Certainly rare worldwide from what I can gather. There were only 3,600 >made in the first place. > > >> Kind of a British Buick - fun >> for the whole family > >They are fun for all the family :-) >One 12 year old, and 2 car seats with a 22 month old and a 3.5 year old >fit into the back seat and can fit 3 across the front bench seat. My two >youngest ones love the Isis. > > >>- uses the same engine as an Austin Healey >> 100/six...... > >Yes indeed. Even with the standard cylinder head and 2639cc they can go >quite well. My Isis has Austin-Healey pistons, twin 1.5" SUs from a >Wolseley 6/99, electronic ignition and a slightly warm camshaft and goes >well enough to antagonise modern traffic if they deserve it. >Diesel people shifters going up hills belching black smoke struggling to >keep up so they can overtake. They deserve it ;-) > >Pity it is an automatic - the 4 speed floor change with gearlever between >driver's door and seat is a bit different! >I see that spare manual gearboxes (most probably 3-speed with overdrive) >are included along with a 3-litre twin SU engine from a '59 Westminster. > >28,002 miles. Unbelieveably low! Unless something is wrong, the power >train and steering box/linkages etc. should be in excellent order. > >There is a club for these cars: the UK based Morris Oxford, Cowley and >Isis club. They're very helpful, have a great magazine and hopefully a >working website soon. I can supply an email contact for the club. > >regards, >-- >Robert Greenfield >In NZ. > >
> >2.6 litre, ohv 6 cylinder engine, Borg Warner automatic > >Owned since 1994, previously same owner 35 years. 28,002 documented >miles. Not running. Stored inside. Complete. >Body solid, with a few dents and minor surface rust. Paint faded. >Interior tatty. > >Also included is the complete power train from a '59 Austin Westminster >(manual trans, ran well), plus two spare gearboxes, two cyl. heads and >some other spares. Need the storage space. $2500 for everything. > >-- >Robert Greenfield From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Apr 5 09:16:33 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:16:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <859999.48711.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Frank, This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give you a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with him. You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek Ron ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From price at advocateadvisors.com Mon Apr 5 10:00:01 2010 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 11:00:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: <859999.48711.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <859999.48711.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E624278@SERVER.acrea.local> I have an original rear bumper and over riders from a 67 BJ8 that I am going to sell. They need to be re-plated but are straight. Any interest from the list? Contact me direct. Price Lindsay -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:17 AM To: Frank Edwards; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Hi Frank, This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give you a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with him. You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek Ron ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL: ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/price at advocateadvisors.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Apr 5 10:03:41 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:03:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: <859999.48711.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <859999.48711.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200ECD8A2DB34EC9A4CFDA1623CCDF8C@LIFEBOOK> For what it's worth, that guy on Ebay with the bumpers is Brad Del Sorbo. I've bought the Coopers water transfer decals from him a few times, and they are spot on and excellent. and the service was quick. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Mitchell" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:16 AM To: "Frank Edwards" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > Hi Frank, > > This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear > bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give > you > a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't > purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with > him. > You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I > changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek > > Ron > ________________________________ > From: Frank Edwards > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM > Subject: > [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > Anyone have > a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones > from VB and > Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > BCS has what they say is a > good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere > else for that matter? > Thanks for the info. > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > 1961 Bugeye > > 1969 Midget > > Frank R. > Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has > tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested > annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 10:17:38 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:17:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gentlemen, If you don't care about fastener minutia, then stop reading now. Slotted vs. Castellated nuts http://www.chinafastener.info/en/images/yp_pic/180.jpg Slotted nut http://www.circlip.biz/images/slotted-nuts.gif This image says it's a castellated nut but is in fact a slotted nut! http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/232348594207797ea6f7aee2db4271d2d3c7c474/3259-CASTLE-NUT.jpg Castellated nut http://componentparts.co.uk/Images/Castle%20Nut%20%28large%29.png A good number of the images on Google claim slotted nuts are castellated nuts and vice versa, so you obviously cannot trust the web on everything. Bottom line... the official source is the Machinery's Handbook. My 16th Edition,1959 volume printing clearly shows the distinction. It also has quite a bit of info on Whitworth Fasteners and UNF, UNC fastener markings that distinguished them from Whitworth. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 5:40 AM, andy pole wrote: > Curt > Depends on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less > half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are > different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. > I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard > nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. > cheers > > Andy > > From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 5 11:15:42 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:15:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: <200ECD8A2DB34EC9A4CFDA1623CCDF8C@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <1709436029.3890401270487742175.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I bought a refurb'd BJ8 speedometer from him. I believe he is in Connecticut. He was responsive and the goods were as advertised. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA For what it's worth, that guy on Ebay with the bumpers is Brad Del Sorbo. I've bought the Coopers water transfer decals from him a few times, and they are spot on and excellent. and the service was quick. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- > Hi Frank, > > This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear > bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give > you > a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't > purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with > him. > You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I > changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek > > Ron From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 11:33:10 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> Message-ID: A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery will not holsd a charge On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? > Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Apr 5 11:42:01 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:42:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> Message-ID: <008301cad4e7$4c261ae0$e47250a0$@ca> That's intersting..why will it run on with an alternator and not a generator (assuming a bad battery?) I would have assumed that regardless of the condition of the battery, the car would continue to run as it would be running on the power created by the Gen/Alternator. Paul From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:33 AM To: PG Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery will not holsd a charge On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers are taken away, the car dies... Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 12:16:10 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:16:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: , , , , Message-ID: Namrick supply both, Bottom of page :) http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=5 cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 5 12:19:21 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 11:19:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <314358.19048.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I got new BJ8 bumpers from Auto Farm in Canada last fall, they are a distributor for AHead4Healeys in the UK. Other than they have a weld line on the back side in the center (2 halves welded together) they are excellent. Bob ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 9:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 12:57:04 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:57:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <008301cad4e7$4c261ae0$e47250a0$@ca> References: , <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca>, , <008301cad4e7$4c261ae0$e47250a0$@ca> Message-ID: Paul A generator is basically a motor in reverse, the only problem is you need higher revs to keep the regulator charging, so unless you keep your foot on the pedal it will not charge at idle (watch the red light on the dash). Alternators will charge at much lower speeds, - one of their benefits. Therefore at idle your battery will not be charging but trying to keep your ignition circuit running. Hopefully your problem is just the load created by a poor battery or connections to it, otherwise you will need to check the regulator and sets its contacts (regulator acts as a relay to switch the current on and off to feed the battery as well as the other circuits). May be worth checking the brushes in the generator as well, may be quite short in length after 40 + years. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 13:47:03 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:47:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> Message-ID: <3BDB87ED-BF69-4419-8744-0D0B398397B8@gmail.com> This is backwards and incorrect. A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. No battery = no excitation Rick Sent from my iPhone On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but > not a > generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging > system > (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery > depletes. If > battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because > battery > will not holsd a charge > > On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >> jumpers >> are taken away, the car dies... >> >> >> >> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >> Unless >> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates >> sometimes >> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is >> old and >> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >> >> >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Apr 5 15:04:45 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:04:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for the information Curt, The machinists hand book really is the bottom line. Rich From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 12:17 PM To: andy pole Cc: acmiller at mhcable.com ; healeys at autox.team.net ; Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Gentlemen, If you don't care about fastener minutia, then stop reading now. Slotted vs. Castellated nuts http://www.chinafastener.info/en/images/yp_pic/180.jpg Slotted nut http://www.circlip.biz/images/slotted-nuts.gif This image says it's a castellated nut but is in fact a slotted nut! http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/232348594207797ea6f7aee2db4271d2d3c7c4 74/3259-CASTLE-NUT.jpg Castellated nut http://componentparts.co.uk/Images/Castle%20Nut%20%28large%29.png A good number of the images on Google claim slotted nuts are castellated nuts and vice versa, so you obviously cannot trust the web on everything. Bottom line... the official source is the Machinery's Handbook. My 16th Edition,1959 volume printing clearly shows the distinction. It also has quite a bit of info on Whitworth Fasteners and UNF, UNC fastener markings that distinguished them from Whitworth. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 5:40 AM, andy pole wrote: Curt Depends on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. cheers Andy From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Apr 5 15:27:24 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:27:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <3BDB87ED-BF69-4419-8744-0D0B398397B8@gmail.com> References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> <3BDB87ED-BF69-4419-8744-0D0B398397B8@gmail.com> Message-ID: Listers, Richard is absolutely correct. I can't tell you how many time both my wife and I ran our Sprites with a dead battery because as poor college/working stiffs we couldn't afford a battery right away. My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. Cheers, Curt. On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 12:47 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > This is backwards and incorrect. > A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree > method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system > to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO > THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a > generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new > battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite > them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Rick > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >> generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >> (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >> battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because >> battery >> will not holsd a charge >> >> On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: >> >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >>> jumpers >>> are taken away, the car dies... >>> >>> >>> >>> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >>> Unless >>> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >>> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old >>> and >>> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul >>> _______________________________________________ From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Apr 5 16:26:34 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:26:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> <3BDB87ED-BF69-4419-8744-0D0B398397B8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001201cad50f$0cc6eeb0$2654cc10$@ca> IF such is the case, then it must be my generator that is faulty......the car does not run unless it has an outside source of power. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 2:27 PM To: Richard Ewald Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Listers, Richard is absolutely correct. I can't tell you how many time both my wife and I ran our Sprites with a dead battery because as poor college/working stiffs we couldn't afford a battery right away. My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. Cheers, Curt. On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 12:47 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > This is backwards and incorrect. > A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree > method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system > to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO > THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a > generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new > battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite > them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Rick > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >> generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >> (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >> battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because >> battery >> will not holsd a charge >> >> On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: >> >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >>> jumpers >>> are taken away, the car dies... >>> >>> >>> >>> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >>> Unless >>> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >>> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old >>> and >>> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul >>> _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From tld6008 at mchsi.com Mon Apr 5 17:18:33 2010 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:18:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior Message-ID: <2130663099.672261270509513085.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> I need some guidance on completing finishing the floor and transmission tunnel. I have a side shift trans and all carpet is in except for the front floor and both tunnel pieces. My under seat carpet is in loose, didn't know if it glues down or snaps. My rough guess at the installation order is: 1. cover (glue) front tunnel with padding and carpet 2. locate where large tunnel goes and screw it in place to frame 3. screw down front tunnel to edges of footwell and frame at each side 4. cut front floor carpet and pad to fit between sills and side of tunnel, glue pad to carpet 5. install snaps to locate carpet 6. fit carpet over large tunnel section and fit snaps to attach 7. is carpet under seats glued or snapped? Thanks in advance Tim Davis BN7 From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 5 17:23:24 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 18:23:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> <3BDB87ED-BF69-4419-8744-0D0B398397B8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4BBA70EC.1030509@justbrits.com> << My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. >> Well Curt, THAT makes PERFECT "sense", right -:)-:)-:) ?!? << She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. >> As I believe most folks "out-by-youse" know that Nancy IS a Sprite person, the only question would be: WHEN is HER car gonna return to it's VERY RARE state of being Nevada Beige ?!?!? Anon From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Apr 5 18:51:54 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 20:51:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior In-Reply-To: <2130663099.672261270509513085.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> References: <2130663099.672261270509513085.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> Message-ID: Tim, Before we go any further, is this a commercial kit or are you working this carpet from scratch? I can help you here including pictures, but it will make a big difference depending on whose carpet set you're using and if it's cut and detailed per original or not. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Davis BN7" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:18 PM To: "Healey list" Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior > I need some guidance on completing finishing the floor and transmission > tunnel. I have a side shift trans and all carpet is in except for the > front floor and both tunnel pieces. My under seat carpet is in loose, > didn't know if it glues down or snaps. My rough guess at the installation > order is: > 1. cover (glue) front tunnel with padding and carpet > 2. locate where large tunnel goes and screw it in place to frame > 3. screw down front tunnel to edges of footwell and frame at each side > 4. cut front floor carpet and pad to fit between sills and side of tunnel, > glue pad to carpet > 5. install snaps to locate carpet > 6. fit carpet over large tunnel section and fit snaps to attach > 7. is carpet under seats glued or snapped? > > Thanks in advance > > Tim Davis BN7 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 18:53:28 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:53:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find stuff. He is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy but knows his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to know him he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may be nicer. Rich Kahn > From: logical2 at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > > > > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones > from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere > else for that matter? > > Thanks for the info. > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > 1961 Bugeye > > 1969 Midget > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Apr 5 19:14:17 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 21:14:17 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 226 Message-ID: <96a0a.6cd5689d.38ebe4e9@aol.com> In a message dated 4/5/10 4:59:40 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to > excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Fascinating, Now maybe you can explain why my race car with an alternator in the ignition circuit, and a battery hooked to ground with a cut-off switch, would happily continue to run when I switched off the battery. Tracy has just rewired it so that the cut-off switch now has four terminals, two for the ground cable to the battery, and two that connect the alternator into the ignition circuit. Gary From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Apr 5 20:02:26 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:02:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Message-ID: <20100405.190238.48.97331@mailpop06.dca.untd.com> Gee, That sounds a bit like ED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find > stuff. He > is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy > but knows > his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to > know him > he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may > be nicer. > Rich Kahn > > From: logical2 at hotmail.com > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 > > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > > > > > > > > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > > > Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe > that the > ones > > from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > > > BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast > or > anywhere > > else for that matter? > > > > Thanks for the info. > > > > > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > > > 1961 Bugeye > > > > 1969 Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2 at hotmail.com > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from > your > inbox. > > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL > > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more > from your > inbox. > N:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bba964d278e9111ea1st01duc From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Apr 5 20:11:24 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:11:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... In-Reply-To: <493369.71740.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <493369.71740.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008401cad52e$75742bc0$605c8340$@net> On HD Theater there is a show called Classic Car Club which apparently is going to show a Healey 3000 (not sure of model). The show is listed for several times that day. Check your local listings for times, etc. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carlos Cruz Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:14 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 BN7 From robertlarson at att.net Mon Apr 5 20:25:38 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:25:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 226 Alternators Message-ID: <4BBA9BA2.3090807@att.net> Some do some don't... There are "self exciting alternators" that use the residual magnetism in them to generate the required field currents. So both are correct, is and is not required, you need to get the correct one. Bob On 4/5/2010 9:14 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/5/10 4:59:40 PM,healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > > >> Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to >> excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. >> No battery = no excitation >> >> > Fascinating, Now maybe you can explain why my race car with an alternator > in the ignition circuit, and a battery hooked to ground with a cut-off > switch, would happily continue to run when I switched off the battery. Tracy > has > just rewired it so that the cut-off switch now has four terminals, two for > the ground cable to the battery, and two that connect the alternator into the > ignition circuit. > Gary From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 20:37:23 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:37:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Message-ID: Figures, the one Rick gets taken on was an Austin Healey Sprite. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 5 20:51:36 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:51:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Message-ID: <000601cad534$137ac8b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Sprit up date on Pawn Stars. Looks like there may be a nice 64 Sprite sitting at the Las Vegas Pawn Shop just waiting for the right buyer. Over all condition looked very nice except for the blown engine. Bad crank and what ever else is bad in the engine. The shop owner has $5000. in it and wants to sell it "as is" cause the estimate from his friend at Rusty Bolts restoration shop was $6000. to rebuild the engine. WOW! That is high. Thats where the show left off. Who knows how old the TV show is , but the car could still be sitting there. Anybody know where this pawn shop on Pawn Stars is? Mark From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 5 21:37:49 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 20:37:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <000601cad534$137ac8b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000601cad534$137ac8b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4BBAAC8D.70509@comcast.net> Vegas. bs Mark LaPierre wrote: > Sprit up date on Pawn Stars. > > Looks like there may be a nice 64 Sprite sitting at the Las Vegas Pawn Shop > just waiting for > the right buyer. Over all condition looked very nice except for the blown > engine. Bad crank > and what ever else is bad in the engine. > > The shop owner has $5000. in it and wants to sell it "as is" cause the > estimate from his friend > at Rusty Bolts restoration shop was $6000. to rebuild the engine. WOW! That > is high. > > Thats where the show left off. > > Who knows how old the TV show is , but the car could still be sitting there. > > Anybody know where this pawn shop on Pawn Stars is? > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net Mon Apr 5 21:46:22 2010 From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (prittenhouse2 at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:46:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Message-ID: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> /dbbpeo: Permission denied From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 6 01:05:46 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:05:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question In-Reply-To: <008301cad4e7$4c261ae0$e47250a0$@ca> References: <004301cad479$710c4000$5324c000$@ca> <008301cad4e7$4c261ae0$e47250a0$@ca> Message-ID: <7KHDgsAK1tuLFwR+@jharper.demon.co.uk> If we stick to just a generator system with a battery that is flat or not holding its charge then the normal situation is that once the generator voltage has dropped to the point where the spark is too weak to fire the mixture the engine will stall and obviously cannot be restarted. This does not, by the way, apply to a battery with internal shorts still connected. More than once over a fifty year period have I managed to get a car going with help, booster leads and with the battery disconnected. The trick is then to keep the revolutions up. Winding the idle speed adjustment screw up fully is usually enough but one has to be very careful when driving to keep the revs high at all times. I have not tried this with an alternator. Best regards >That's intersting..why will it run on with an alternator and not a generator >(assuming a bad battery?) > > > >I would have assumed that regardless of the condition of the battery, the >car would continue to run as it would be running on the power created by the >Gen/Alternator. > > > >Paul > > > >From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] >Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:33 AM >To: PG >Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question > > > >A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >(generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery >will not holsd a charge > >On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > >The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers >are taken away, the car dies... > > > >Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless >of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and >is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > -- John Harper From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 6 04:30:27 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 06:30:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would back up his findings except that it was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never here the ending to the story cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That car looked like it had a total restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't complete the job with a decent engine redo. Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly scheduled Healey Stuff. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net To: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage mechanic be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a compression test tell you? Phil From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 6 04:44:32 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 06:44:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers References: Message-ID: <003201cad576$24c0e900$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Isn't this the company that had a lot of neg. feed back a few years ago. Why hassle with somebodys bad attitude. It usually isn't worth it in the long run. JMHO, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: ; Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find stuff. > He > is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy but > knows > his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to know > him > he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may be > nicer. > Rich Kahn >> From: logical2 at hotmail.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 >> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers >> >> I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. >> >> >> >> Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. >> >> Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the > ones >> from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. >> >> BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or > anywhere >> else for that matter? >> >> Thanks for the info. >> /Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 06:11:30 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:11:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBB24F2.5030500@comcast.net> I would have thought that someone in the area would have a used engine that may have been better than the one he had. Of course the amount of screwing around that you or I would do would be a lot more than he was interested in. Those guys seem to have quite a high gross profit margin, usually around 100%. It is hard to believe that overhead would be so high as to warrant that. Normal companies have a 10-15% gross profit with net being half or less of that. S and T Miller wrote: > Figures, the one Rick gets taken on was an Austin Healey Sprite. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 07:30:15 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 06:30:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> Anybody see the same show I did? The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the father/son conflict). bs Mark LaPierre wrote: > Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would back up > his findings except that it > was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never here the > ending to the story > cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. > > Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That car looked > like it had a total > restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't complete the > job with a decent engine > redo. > > Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly scheduled > Healey Stuff. > > Mark > > > > They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage mechanic > be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a compression > test tell you? > > Phil > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 07:59:50 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 06:59:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BBB3E56.8000100@comcast.net> Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? bs Bob Spidell wrote: > Anybody see the same show I did? > > The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty > Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed > to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the > crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). > > They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they > follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the > father/son conflict). > > bs > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 08:24:03 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:24:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BBB4403.7000802@comcast.net> The shot of the crankshaft on the wall was a bit confusing because they then panned to the engine still sitting in the car. I took it to be some old crank from another engine that he had to show the pawn guy what a crankshaft looked like. Bob Spidell wrote: > Anybody see the same show I did? > > The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty > Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed > to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the > crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). > > They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they > follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the > father/son conflict). > > bs > > > Mark LaPierre wrote: >> Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would >> back up >> his findings except that it >> was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never >> here the >> ending to the story >> cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. >> >> Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That >> car looked >> like it had a total >> restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't >> complete the >> job with a decent engine >> redo. >> >> Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly >> scheduled >> Healey Stuff. >> >> Mark >> >> >> >> They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage >> mechanic >> be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a >> compression >> test tell you? >> >> Phil >> >> >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From prittenhouse2 at verizon.net Tue Apr 6 09:10:33 2010 From: prittenhouse2 at verizon.net (Phil Rittenhouse) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:10:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <4BBB3E56.8000100@comcast.net> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> <4BBB3E56.8000100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5CA32297-038A-4231-BB25-0AD26E6358DF@verizon.net> Sorry Bob, If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones driveway? Or could I? Phil Sent from my iPhone On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:59 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... > I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). > > Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping > the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? > > > bs > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Anybody see the same show I did? >> >> The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty >> Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, >> pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals >> in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the >> engine). >> >> They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet >> they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out >> of the father/son conflict). >> >> bs >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/prittenhouse2 at verizon.net From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Apr 6 09:19:09 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars In-Reply-To: <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <8A689319-EBF4-42CA-BDB2-E7258C3F0607@cox.net> That show has the items set up and supplied by various dealers. I know for sure on some guitars that were featured. The store that supplied them even mentions it on their website! From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 09:41:26 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:41:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <5CA32297-038A-4231-BB25-0AD26E6358DF@verizon.net> References: <1538117589.1050736.1270525582992.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <000b01cad574$2d53cdf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4BBB3765.3040606@comcast.net> <4BBB3E56.8000100@comcast.net> <5CA32297-038A-4231-BB25-0AD26E6358DF@verizon.net> Message-ID: Bad rod bearings knock, bad main bearings have oil pressure issues (as in not nearly enough) Rick On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 8:10 AM, Phil Rittenhouse wrote: > Sorry Bob, > > If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be > able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones > driveway? Or could I? > > Phil From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 10:42:29 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 16:42:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas In-Reply-To: <1799885958.4291081270570483794.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1534847002.4306421270572149854.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Huh? Twasn't me called them average mechanics (note the quotes in my message). I believe the original post was referring to the mechanics that diagnosed the problem; i.e. Rusty Nuts (great name), the only mechanics of any sort--average or otherwise--that were on the show. Presumably, they heard the noises in the engine and dropped the pan and main bearing caps (probably did compression checks and borescoping first). If I missed the intent of that message I apologize. Like I said, I must have watched a different version of the show. Rick bought a box Sprite without even seeing it run--he trusted the seller who 'drove it down here'--surprising behavior for Rick (usually a real skeptic). He had to charge the battery to even get it to start, drove it to the shop where it was diagnosed by some guys who looked--based on what I could see in the show--to be (very) professional mechanics. Nobody--average mechanic or pro--can definitively diagnose the cause of a noise without doing the proper diagnostics (but anyone can speculate). To diagnose main bearing and crank issues you have to drop the pan (AFAIK--an oil analysis might hint at bearing problems). Rick was quite complimentary about Austin-Healeys and the 'fan clubs.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Sorry Bob, If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones driveway? Or could I? Phil Sent from my iPhone On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:59 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... > I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). > > Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping > the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? > > > bs > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Anybody see the same show I did? >> >> The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty >> Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, >> pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals >> in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the >> engine). >> >> They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet >> they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out >> of the father/son conflict). >> >> bs From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Apr 6 11:25:44 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 10:25:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cape Carb Access Panel Message-ID: <002901cad5ae$30b87060$92295120$@ca> Does anybody have a picture of an installed Cape International Carb Access Panel they can send me? Thanks Paul From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 12:43:06 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:43:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 simmons hammer Message-ID: Guys Anyone got a description / size or picture of the simmons lead hammer supplied in the toolkits from 64 onwards please. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 18:28:14 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:28:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 simmons hammer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think they are identical to what was supplied with late MGBs. On 4/7/10, andy pole wrote: > Guys > > Anyone got a description / size or picture of the simmons lead hammer > supplied > in the toolkits from 64 onwards please. > > cheers Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ > We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us > now > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 6 18:33:37 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 19:33:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: ___ugeye/___rogeye Club..... help! Not LBC.] Message-ID: <4BBBD2E1.607@justbrits.com> Folks, below is a request from a pal of mine "Down Under" that is only on [poor chap -:) ] yahoogroups Lists. I AM totally jealous of the bike he is considering however he needs a "LBC Hand". Location is very close to Stockton, CA. Please write Colin direct but be so kind as to CC me. TIA !! Ed ************************************************************ -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... help! Not LBC............................. Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:32:31 +1000 From: Colin Dodds Reply-To: bugeye at yahoogroups.___ To: G'day guys I'm thinking of buying a bike and shipping it Down Under. A 1947 Indian Chief, since you asked. I need someone to look at the bike on my behalf, and tell me: a) it exists; b) it runs; and c) it is as described. The bike I'm currently looking at is in Manteca CA, and if I buy it I need to get it to Wilmington CA. Is there anyone near Manteca and willing to help? If so, I would really appreciate it. Please contact me Colin at SpriteParts.com.au . thanks, and avagoodday www.SpriteParts.com.au __,_._,___ From acmiller at mhcable.com Tue Apr 6 19:02:18 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:02:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] slotted nuts - thanks Message-ID: Thanks to the many who replied to the thread about getting the ball joints mounted. it turned out the damage was to the threads of the ball joint posts; the nuts were in the main innocent. i was able to run a thread tap part way down to get the nuts threads clean up to the castellations. also was able to use a detailing file to clean the mars on the balljoint posts. between the two everything fell into place. allen miller 100m From scvc70 at epix.net Tue Apr 6 19:24:34 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:24:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> To: "edic" Cc: Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 11:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] brake switch > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes > to turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd > LED light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the > package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to > fit the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for > shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob From alexmm at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 6 20:05:21 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:05:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> Message-ID: The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, dropping the O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a replacement! No way, Jose. I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. This is very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts were almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the external screw contacts. Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was from a BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. I then lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical insulating paper (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the original Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. Back in business for less than $5. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From jessmd1 at comcast.net Tue Apr 6 21:48:23 2010 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:48:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] transmission leaks Message-ID: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> I know most british cars leak a little oil.I believe there is an aftermarket kit to solve this problem.Does anyone know who makes the kits for a 1959 bugeye? Also I have seen some people using Datsun transmissions with 1275cc bugeye engines.Do these require machining to fit correctly?Which transmission would be the easiest to fit? From bruce_griffin at earthlink.net Tue Apr 6 21:54:45 2010 From: bruce_griffin at earthlink.net (Bruce Griffin) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 23:54:45 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius Message-ID: <23907501.1270612485495.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Just a comment on how far we have come. Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get access to the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North Carolina). Our family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the garage with the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that I could not get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service (the battery location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical (everything else is electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its dead you can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump start post on the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. Open the boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start button on the Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of storage (a problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the positive ground car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple technology of the Austin-Healey. It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive some ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on electronic technology. Regards, Bruce D. Griffin Summerfield, NC, USA From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 22:28:42 2010 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 04:28:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] transmission leaks In-Reply-To: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> References: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> Message-ID: If you do not add oil, ever, it will eventually stop leaking, guarantee. Jean Caron > From: jessmd1 at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:48:23 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] transmission leaks > > I know most british cars leak a little oil.I believe there is an > aftermarket kit to solve this problem.Does anyone know who makes the > kits for a 1959 bugeye? Also I have seen some people using Datsun > transmissions with 1275cc bugeye engines.Do these require machining to > fit correctly?Which transmission would be the easiest to fit? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Live connected. Get Hotmail & Messenger on your phone. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724462 From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 23:26:10 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:26:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius In-Reply-To: <23907501.1270612485495.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <23907501.1270612485495.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I used my Jag Mk IX to jump start a brand new Lamborghini in my apartment block a couple weeks ago, apparently if a new Lambo sits for more than two weeks she won't have any juice left. Of course I've have my healeys sit as long as 12 months, always starts!!! Incidentally, that Lambo battery is not that easy to get to either! Needs a lot of juice to turn over that monster tractor motor! On 4/7/10, Bruce Griffin wrote: > Just a comment on how far we have come. > > Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get access to > the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North Carolina). Our > family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the garage > with > the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that I could > not > get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service (the > battery > location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). > Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical (everything else > is > electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its dead you > can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump start post on > the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. Open the > boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start button on > the > Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of storage > (a > problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the positive > ground > car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple > technology of the Austin-Healey. > > It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive some > ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on > electronic > technology. > > Regards, > Bruce D. Griffin > Summerfield, NC, USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From pieters at pt.lu Tue Apr 6 23:47:37 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 07:47:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> Message-ID: <52E6C0F1-B74B-4C39-A23A-8090DCE3639C@pt.lu> Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. cheers Pieter On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: > The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, > dropping the > O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I > determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a > replacement! No way, Jose. > > I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. > This is > very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts > were > almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. > > So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the > original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the > external screw contacts. > > Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was > from a > BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. > > I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. > I then > lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical > insulating paper > (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the > original > Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder > terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. > > The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. > Back in > business for less than $5. > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. > Please send plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters at pt.lu From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 7 02:46:57 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:46:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> Message-ID: <4BBC4681.5020703@chello.nl> These are fixes I love. Well done. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alex wrote: > The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, dropping the > O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I > determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a > replacement! No way, Jose. > > I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. This is > very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts were > almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. > > So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the > original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the > external screw contacts. > > Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was from a > BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. > > I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. I then > lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical insulating paper > (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the original > Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder > terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. > > The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. Back in > business for less than $5. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 06:12:38 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:12:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed References: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> Message-ID: http://www.rivergate5speed.com/rivergate.html From alexmm at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 7 06:42:46 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:42:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <52E6C0F1-B74B-4C39-A23A-8090DCE3639C@pt.lu> Message-ID: <74EB9AB9D0F746D792414394EBC332B9@atc0f226cd3237> The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists catalog and the Moss catalog. Check it out. Thanks for the information though! == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Alex" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a > SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and > even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair > is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. > cheers > Pieter > On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: > >> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >> dropping the >> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >> replacement! No way, Jose. >> >> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >> This is >> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >> were >> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >> >> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the >> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the >> external screw contacts. >> >> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >> from a >> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >> >> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >> I then >> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >> insulating paper >> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >> original >> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder >> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >> >> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >> Back in >> business for less than $5. >> >> == Alex in Maine >> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >> 1965 MG Midget >> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From alexmm at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 7 07:16:27 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:16:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net><262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562><52E6C0F1-B74B-4C39-A23A-8090DCE3639C@pt.lu> <74EB9AB9D0F746D792414394EBC332B9@atc0f226cd3237> Message-ID: <6AE89E521E314FD4831A9EF795DB51E0@atc0f226cd3237> Hi again Pieter, I looked up the SRB111 relay that you mentioned, and it looks like it could be a substitute, but would require modification of the wiring terminals. Purists might want to retain the original O/D relay enclosure, which my repair/modification does. Highest regards, == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "Pieter and Linda" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists catalog > and > the Moss catalog. Check it out. > > Thanks for the information though! > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Alex" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a >> SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and >> even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair >> is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. >> cheers >> Pieter >> On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: >> >>> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >>> dropping the >>> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >>> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >>> replacement! No way, Jose. >>> >>> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >>> This is >>> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >>> were >>> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >>> >>> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the >>> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the >>> external screw contacts. >>> >>> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >>> from a >>> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >>> >>> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >>> I then >>> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >>> insulating paper >>> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >>> original >>> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder >>> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >>> >>> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >>> Back in >>> business for less than $5. >>> >>> == Alex in Maine >>> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >>> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >>> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >>> 1965 MG Midget >>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Apr 7 07:47:49 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:47:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed In-Reply-To: References: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> Message-ID: My brother used the Rivergate kit, as have several club members, it works well, I think there may be an issue with clutch slave or master that can give you a hard/hair trigger clutch. The Datsun 5 speeds are getting hard to find as many available in the scrapyards have been scooped up, but perserverance turns them up from time to time. Greg Lemon From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 7 09:14:55 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:14:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius In-Reply-To: <23907501.1270612485495.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <23907501.1270612485495.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <29C1B71D-ABDE-4944-AE3A-096122DCE4CC@sbcglobal.net> Bruce, Many of the newer cars that have their batteries in the trunk along with electronic trunk locks also have a key hole stashed somewhere. The Jaguars have a electric trunk latch but there also is a key in the XK8 logo, the S type is hidden under the trunk handle. They also have a main battery stud under the hood that a jumper can be connected to to power up the electrical system. So i would bet that there is a key hole somewhere hidden that gives access to the trunk David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 6, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Bruce Griffin wrote: > Just a comment on how far we have come. > > Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get > access to > the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North > Carolina). Our > family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the > garage with > the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that > I could not > get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service > (the battery > location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). > Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical > (everything else is > electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its > dead you > can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump > start post on > the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. > Open the > boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start > button on the > Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of > storage (a > problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the > positive ground > car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple > technology of the Austin-Healey. > > It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive > some > ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on > electronic > technology. > > Regards, > Bruce D. Griffin > Summerfield, NC, USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 7 09:18:22 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:18:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair In-Reply-To: <74EB9AB9D0F746D792414394EBC332B9@atc0f226cd3237> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <52E6C0F1-B74B-4C39-A23A-8090DCE3639C@pt.lu> <74EB9AB9D0F746D792414394EBC332B9@atc0f226cd3237> Message-ID: <365FC740-5A0F-4CE4-8B58-9688D2B36B8A@sbcglobal.net> The SRB111 relay is not the same as the original style $200.00 relay. It is smaller and has push on terminals. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 7, 2010, at 5:42 AM, Alex wrote: > The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists > catalog and > the Moss catalog. Check it out. > > Thanks for the information though! > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Alex" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a >> SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and >> even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair >> is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. >> cheers >> Pieter >> On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: >> >>> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >>> dropping the >>> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >>> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >>> replacement! No way, Jose. >>> >>> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >>> This is >>> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >>> were >>> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >>> >>> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains >>> of the >>> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed >>> clean the >>> external screw contacts. >>> >>> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >>> from a >>> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >>> >>> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >>> I then >>> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >>> insulating paper >>> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >>> original >>> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type >>> solder >>> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >>> >>> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >>> Back in >>> business for less than $5. >>> >>> == Alex in Maine >>> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >>> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >>> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >>> 1965 MG Midget >>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. > Please send plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 09:19:06 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:19:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed References: <7DEBE32C-E422-47E5-A9AC-D9E28A5C60F1@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4355D0F706BC46D88586E66E7E1EBC4D@Edscomputer> Here's one presently on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/datsun-210-5-speed-transmission-sprite-midget-TESTED_W0QQitemZ280488823727QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414e6fcbaf Ed Woods From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Apr 7 09:29:27 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:29:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair Message-ID: <005a01cad667$1c4ec3e0$54ec4ba0$@ca> I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to to ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is raised to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or to protect the overdrive. Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the overdrive in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would give more control. Any thoughts? Paul From edic at tampabay.rr.com Wed Apr 7 11:22:42 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:22:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal Message-ID: <000e01cad676$eea92d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Healey folks, I am going to remove the transmission in my BJ8 to replace an oil seal, and since this is the first time to remove it with the engine in place I need some advice. Is there a web site that I can go to that covers this operation? One way or the other the transmission is coming out tomorrow, but a few pointers would be helpful and I would really like to do this in the simplest and least time consuming way. Mel Brunet HBJ8L From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 11:37:58 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:37:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham Book Message-ID: <1802326944.4790091270661878928.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Think this has been mentioned, but just in case: http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4257&prod_group=Reference%20&%20Biography& -- or -- http://tinyurl.com/ygmsu9d bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 11:57:50 2010 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:57:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey in the Denver Auto Show Message-ID: <87E3BC1A-9306-4EF3-828D-CCAB9E032BC5@comcast.net> My BN1 was invited to be in the Denver Auto show. It starts tonight. If your in the area, stop by and say hey... Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From rpschauss at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 13:03:20 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:03:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal In-Reply-To: <000e01cad676$eea92d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <000e01cad676$eea92d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: I followed the instructions in the shop manual. Here is a quick overview: 0. Drain the oil from the gearbox. 1. From underneath the car, disconnect the back end of the hand brake cable. 2. Remove both front seats, the center console, and anything else in the interior which you think will get in your way. 3. Remove the gearshift knob and boot. 4. Remove the fiberglass gearbox cover. 5. Unhook the drive shaft from the rear of the gearbox. (I cannot remember if I unbolted it from the differential, but you may find that you have to.) 6. Disconnect the rear gearbox mounts. 7. Support the back of the motor with a jack and put another jack under the gearbox. 8. Take off the starter and undo the remaining bolts which hold the gearbox to the motor. Note that two of the bolts are special dowel bolts which insure that the gearbox lines up properly with the flywheel. Note which holes they came out of. 9. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and let it hang out of the way. 10. With the two jacks, raise the motor and gearbox a bit. 11. Working inside of the car, pull the gearbox toward the rear untill the first motion shaft clears the splines in the clutch disk. You will have to rotate the gearbox on its fore-aft axis so that the bell housing clears the firewall. 12. Once the gearbox is free, point the first motion shaft toward the passenger's footwell and pull it forward until the rear flange clears the driveshaft tunnel. I am sure that I have left something out since it has been about 9 years since I did this last. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 1:22 PM, edic wrote: > Healey folks, > > > > I am going to remove the transmission in my BJ8 to replace an oil seal, and > since this is the first time to remove it with the engine in place I need some > advice. Is there a web site that I can go to that covers this operation? One > way or the other the transmission is coming out tomorrow, but a few pointers > would be helpful and I would really like to do this in the simplest and least > time consuming way. > > > > Mel Brunet > > HBJ8L > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Apr 7 13:24:58 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:24:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair In-Reply-To: <005a01cad667$1c4ec3e0$54ec4ba0$@ca> References: <005a01cad667$1c4ec3e0$54ec4ba0$@ca> Message-ID: <68A99DCFF4A544098128CED99D6EB638@LIFEBOOK> Paul, You are confusing the relay with the throttle switch. The relay has to handle the amp load to kick in the solenoid so the o/d dash switch doesn't have to. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "PG" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:29 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair > I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to > to > ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is > raised > to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. > > Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or > to > protect the overdrive. > > Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the > overdrive > in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would > give more control. > > Any thoughts? > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From alexmm at roadrunner.com Wed Apr 7 15:43:14 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:43:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: O/D relay repair Message-ID: <7691CF9186AB42F78A977B3F363EFE5B@atc0f226cd3237> > Paul, I think you're confusing the O/D relay with the kickdown throttle > switch. > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "PG" > To: "'Alex'" ; "'Pieter and Linda'" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:01 AM > Subject: RE: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to >> to >> ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is >> raised >> to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. >> >> Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or >> to >> protect the overdrive. >> >> Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the >> overdrive >> in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would >> give more control. >> >> Any thoughts? >> >> Paul [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Apr 7 15:45:52 2010 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:45:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal Message-ID: Everything Peter says is correct, but DON'T forget the two bolts (referred to as "set pins" in the manual) that are under the car.....this is easy to do! Stephen BJ8 From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Apr 7 20:38:34 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:38:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE12F@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day This rather nice looking 100 coupe has just come up for sale in Italy:- http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/86882 Its early history is also mentioned on Larry Varley's site at:- http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/specials.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From edic at tampabay.rr.com Wed Apr 7 20:46:33 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal Message-ID: <002501cad6c5$b34d9d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Apr 7 23:34:56 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 01:34:56 EDT Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia Message-ID: <1f61.424181ac.38eec500@aol.com> Just returned from Australia and their national Austin-Healey rally. One of the best times I've ever had anywhere at any event. All of the people I met or didn't meet were fantastic. These people know how to have fun. If you ever get the chance to visit Australia, let me tell you the Healey Hilton is in full swing down under and if you don't have a good time down there, it's your own fault. Go and enjoy is the only advice I can give. And thanks to this list, I put a call out to New Zealand also and it was answered by the wonderful folks of Dunedin, Ross and Shona Osbourne to be specific. They arranged for a dinner get together with some of the local Austin-Healey folks where we talked for hours, traded stories and had a great time. Ross also arranged for a tour of Martin Dippie's shop where they're rebuilding a 100S and then we retired to Ross's home in the hills outside Dunedin for a wonderful dinner, great conversation and finally to view some DVD's I brought of the Healey's Return to Bonneville. All in all, an amazing time and much of that praise must be placed here with this forum and the people who contribute to it. You're such a rich resource, not just for the technical knowledge, but also for the path-way to find such a caring, wonderful and sharing folk. Don't travel without it! Thanks for the memories, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 04:05:33 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 03:05:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal Message-ID: <900907.65674.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 04:46:42 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 03:46:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE12F@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <296786.79057.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Very nice looking coupe, Patrick. One thing has me puzzled, Looks like the gearchange is located to the right of the driver. Wonder how that linkage was accomplished? Price - POA - probably means "Coupe de Moola" Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Wed, 4/7/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 10:38 PM G'day This rather nice looking 100 coupe has just come up for sale in Italy:- http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/86882 Its early history is also mentioned on Larry Varley's site at:- http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/specials.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 04:49:04 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:49:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal In-Reply-To: <900907.65674.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <900907.65674.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Why don't you just install a PCV valve, that will stop the leaking and not require pulling the motor. There is no seal back there, just a reverse screw oil scavenger line on the back of the crank. On 4/8/10, john doe wrote: > For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one > not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 8 05:09:03 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 13:09:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal In-Reply-To: <900907.65674.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <900907.65674.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BBDB94F.5040700@chello.nl> John, Check your crank case pressure and crankcase ventilation first. You may try fitting a PCV valve (cheap and easy) as your crankcase pressure may be a bit high, thus blowing out oil through the rear crank seal. This was discussed a few weeks ago. Kees Oudesluijs NL john doe wrote: > For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2797 - datum van uitgifte: 04/07/10 20:32:00 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Apr 8 05:29:55 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:29:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia In-Reply-To: <1f61.424181ac.38eec500@aol.com> References: <1f61.424181ac.38eec500@aol.com> Message-ID: G'day Stephen It was wonderful meeting you and regaling you with the stories of drop-bears and marauding kangaroos. Seriously the Australian National Rally was a fantastic celebration of our cars and the chance to meet up with our friends from the US, Ireland, England, Sweden and New Zealand just made it all the better. We managed to add 1800 miles to the odometer of the BN3 and while the car remains in excellent condition I can't say the same about its owners. Best wishes Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sent: Thursday, 8 April 2010 3:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia Just returned from Australia and their national Austin-Healey rally. One of the best times I've ever had anywhere at any event. All of the people I met or didn't meet were fantastic. These people know how to have fun. If you ever get the chance to visit Australia, let me tell you the Healey Hilton is in full swing down under and if you don't have a good time down there, it's your own fault. Go and enjoy is the only advice I can give. And thanks to this list, I put a call out to New Zealand also and it was answered by the wonderful folks of Dunedin, Ross and Shona Osbourne to be specific. They arranged for a dinner get together with some of the local Austin-Healey folks where we talked for hours, traded stories and had a great time. Ross also arranged for a tour of Martin Dippie's shop where they're rebuilding a 100S and then we retired to Ross's home in the hills outside Dunedin for a wonderful dinner, great conversation and finally to view some DVD's I brought of the Healey's Return to Bonneville. All in all, an amazing time and much of that praise must be placed here with this forum and the people who contribute to it. You're such a rich resource, not just for the technical knowledge, but also for the path-way to find such a caring, wonderful and sharing folk. Don't travel without it! Thanks for the memories, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From alexmm at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 8 07:59:10 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:59:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hey Alex References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net><262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <000e01cad6b8$6b258cf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <91B10712613B403FB6ED889E6CA5CA76@atc0f226cd3237> Hi Mark, Look here for some details and photos, thanks to John Sims and his great web site (sorry about the poor quality of the images. I should have taken more and better photos). http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf Anyway, as for using your voltmeter, set it to read for -12V. Put the common lead of your meter on the chassis. Put the other lead on terminal C2. Turn on the ignition switch (don't start the motor). Turn on the O/D switch (A on diagram). You should read about -12V on your meter. That shows that the relay coil is energized and the internal relay contacts (at C1 and C2) have closed. Put the gear lever in 3rd or 4th gear. If you move the gear lever into first or second you should hear the big solenoid (F) drop out with a click. I also hear the solenoid click in when I move the gear lever in 3rd and 4th. With the engine off you can hear this distinctly. Now turn off the O/D switch. Keep your foot off the throttle. There should still be -12V on C2. That shows that the kickdown switch is good. It's contacts feed -12V to the relay coil (from C2 to W1), keeping the relay coil energized even though the panel switch (A) is now off. With the relay contacts held closed, -12V is still feeding current to the solenoid too, through the shift switch (E). Now press on the throttle. The -12V at C2 should drop to zero as the kickdown switch opens. The solenoid should drop out with a click (if you're in 3rd or 4th). Hold the throttle down to keep the throttle switch open. Throw the O/D switch on the dash/fascia. You should see -12V. That proves the relay contacts have closed again, being fed via the panel switch (A). Hope that helps. Attached is a schematic. Let me know how you make out. == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Alex" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:11 PM Subject: Hey Alex > Interesting subject matter. I am having some intermittent OD issues am > an > interested in what you came up with. I did take it apart years ago before > install and cleaned it. > > I am pretty good with a volt ohm meter if you could suggest a few > readings > to take that would be helpful. My solenoid is new, the kick down > switch > is dead on, so that leaves the relay and the OD > lever adjustment. > > Got any pictures or diagrams of your relay creation? > > Mark [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of OD_relay_schematic.jpg] [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 09:22:23 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:22:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hey Alex In-Reply-To: <91B10712613B403FB6ED889E6CA5CA76@atc0f226cd3237> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net><262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <000e01cad6b8$6b258cf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <91B10712613B403FB6ED889E6CA5CA76@atc0f226cd3237> Message-ID: <00ed01cad72f$4a3bfac0$deb3f040$@net> Site updated this morning with the new information. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:59 AM To: Mark LaPierre Cc: Healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hey Alex Hi Mark, Look here for some details and photos, thanks to John Sims and his great web site (sorry about the poor quality of the images. I should have taken more and better photos). http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf Anyway, as for using your voltmeter, set it to read for -12V. Put the common lead of your meter on the chassis. Put the other lead on terminal C2. Turn on the ignition switch (don't start the motor). Turn on the O/D switch (A on diagram). You should read about -12V on your meter. That shows that the relay coil is energized and the internal relay contacts (at C1 and C2) have closed. Put the gear lever in 3rd or 4th gear. If you move the gear lever into first or second you should hear the big solenoid (F) drop out with a click. I also hear the solenoid click in when I move the gear lever in 3rd and 4th. With the engine off you can hear this distinctly. From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 10:16:53 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:16:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal Message-ID: <785828.51739.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > From: Robert Blair > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear crank seal > To: "john doe" > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 9:14 AM > JD, There is no 'normal crank seal' > at the rear end of the BJ8 crank. It is a reverse > thread on the crank that 'rewinds to oil' back in when the > crank is rotating. When the crank is stationary, the > thread contents will tend drip out. If you have a > gush, it is more likely the front gearbox oil seal that will > also flow out the bell housing bottom. > > Check things carefully before committing to a crank out > job. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > > --- On Thu, 4/8/10, john doe > wrote: > > > From: john doe > > Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal > > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 3:05 AM > > For some reason now the rear is > > leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a > project > > that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > > _______________________________________________ From willig at wtnet.de Thu Apr 8 11:02:22 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 19:02:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Message-ID: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/am iproprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 11:41:52 2010 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:41:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] B-J auction results from FL Message-ID: i don't believe anyone mentioned that last fridays top sale of the day was a Tanner BJ8 in golden beige metallic. with commission, it went for $110 k. he had another, the same color, that went for around $75k. hooray for Healeys! -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 8 11:46:25 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:46:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] OT - NO LBC - amusing article Message-ID: Amusing to me, anyway ... Profiling cars http://www.openmindinstitute.com/article.php?Noarticle=36 From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com Thu Apr 8 11:47:59 2010 From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:47:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal In-Reply-To: <002501cad6c5$b34d9d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <002501cad6c5$b34d9d30$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A5536@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> Other things to check while transmission is out ... Check clutch for wear. There is a shaft which is above the transmission bell housing and runs side to side in the car, that is part of the accelerator pedal linkage. It has a bushing at each end. Check them for wear and replace if needed. - Bernie Johnsen, 1967 BJ8 From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Apr 8 11:59:47 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 13:59:47 EDT Subject: [Healeys] The Healey Hilton Down Under Message-ID: <615d2.2010bbb8.38ef7393@aol.com> In a message dated 4/8/10 10:52:03 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > G'day Stephen > > It was wonderful meeting you and regaling you with the stories of > drop-bears > and marauding kangaroos. > > Seriously the Australian National Rally was a fantastic celebration of our > cars and the chance to meet up with our friends from the US, Ireland, > England, Sweden and New Zealand just made it all the better. > > We managed to add 1800 miles to the odometer of the BN3 and while the car > remains in excellent condition I can't say the same about its owners. > > Best wishes > > Patrick & Caroline Quinn > Sydney, Australia > Nice to know that the Healey Hilton is still open and in operation more than 20 years after many of the same folks from Oz and those islands off their coast introduced Genie and me to much of what makes the Healey hobby special. Gary Anderson From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 8 14:02:28 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 16:02:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] B-J auction results from FL In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100408150228.NW7N7.1089075.root@ispmxfep13-z01> All well and good, but just another money pawn or museum piece. Tom ---- jerry wall wrote: ============= i don't believe anyone mentioned that last fridays top sale of the day was a Tanner BJ8 in golden beige metallic. with commission, it went for $110 k. he had another, the same color, that went for around $75k. hooray for Healeys! -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From jwj-scj at cox.net Thu Apr 8 16:21:49 2010 From: jwj-scj at cox.net (jwj-scj at cox.net) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:21:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch Message-ID: <20100408182149.W19XZ.112163.imail@eastrmwml34> Hey Paul, Let me start a blizzard of input for you. I think of a Healey transmission as a six speed transmission. I dis-able the the relay so I can control the transmission through the top two gears with the clutch, the overdrive switch and the accelerator. Most people think I am nuts for using the equipment as it was not intended. But, I've never blown a transmission or an overdrive in 40 years of owning a Healey and I think I have a lot more fun in the process. Perhaps it is a question of how one is driving their Healey. If one is driving the twisties (i.e. the Tail of the Dragon at speed) or the boulevards at a leisurely pace of 2500-3000 rpm, then the set-up might make a difference. Incidentally, I am a clutch man. I am a firm believer of using the two overdrive gears just as if they are two additional gears in the gearbox. I engage the overdrive with the clutch and the switch, simultaneously matching the engine RPM's to the speed of the car, the engaging and dis-engaging of the overdrive always between 2000 and 2200 RPM's. I suggest you try removing the relay from the equation. If you don't like it', you can always return to the original set-up. Joe From mslechta at chartermi.net Thu Apr 8 17:44:46 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:44:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch In-Reply-To: <20100408182149.W19XZ.112163.imail@eastrmwml34> References: <20100408182149.W19XZ.112163.imail@eastrmwml34> Message-ID: Joe, What you are saying is essentially true. I agree with you about using the O/D function as often as practical (meaning not at too low RPM). I feel that using the O/D function frequently keeps parts from "freezing" due to lack of use. I don't have as many years of Healeying under my belt (seat?) as you, but I do have what I consider lots of miles on her & have never had an O/D problem, including relays. On another related note, I read somewhere, possibly "Healey Marque" about being able to eliminate or remove something, possibly a switch, and you could us the O/D function in all 4 gears. This did not appeal to me & it was quite sometime ago, so I don't remember the details. One more related note; In my opinion, there is not any section of "The Tail" long enough to use the O/D function. Cheers, Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: jwj-scj at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:21 PM Subject: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch Hey Paul, Let me start a blizzard of input for you. I think of a Healey transmission as a six speed transmission. I dis-able the the relay so I can control the transmission through the top two gears with the clutch, the overdrive switch and the accelerator. Most people think I am nuts for using the equipment as it was not intended. But, I've never blown a transmission or an overdrive in 40 years of owning a Healey and I think I have a lot more fun in the process. Perhaps it is a question of how one is driving their Healey. If one is driving the twisties (i.e. the Tail of the Dragon at speed) or the boulevards at a leisurely pace of 2500-3000 rpm, then the set-up might make a difference. Incidentally, I am a clutch man. I am a firm believer of using the two overdrive gears just as if they are two additional gears in the gearbox. I engage the overdrive with the clutch and the switch, simultaneously matching the engine RPM's to the speed of the car, the engaging and dis-engaging of the overdrive always between 2000 and 2200 RPM's. I suggest you try removing the relay from the equation. If you don't like it', you can always return to the original set-up. Joe _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Apr 8 17:57:09 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:57:09 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> G'day A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- Sitting Down? Euros 270,000 Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami proprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Apr 8 18:27:29 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:27:29 EDT Subject: [Healeys] The Healey Hilton Down Under Message-ID: <7b1f1.44b38b50.38efce71@aol.com> Nice to know that the Healey Hilton is still open and in operation more than 20 years after many of the same folks from Oz and those islands off their coast introduced Genie and me to much of what makes the Healey hobby special. Gary Anderson I totally concur ... it's not just the cars, but the people behind them that really bring this hobby alive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/m ailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From edic at tampabay.rr.com Thu Apr 8 19:05:59 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:05:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Transmission removal Message-ID: <002001cad780$d122b960$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 From edic at tampabay.rr.com Thu Apr 8 19:13:36 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:13:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] transmission removal Message-ID: <005701cad781$e1affa80$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this email to the Healey list. My third attempt. Mel I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 From edic at tampabay.rr.com Thu Apr 8 19:15:32 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:15:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd test Message-ID: <007701cad782$269faf00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Test #2 From edic at tampabay.rr.com Thu Apr 8 19:20:19 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:20:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: <000801cad782$d1d1d330$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Test #3 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 8 19:52:40 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear shroud at the boot lip? Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? Thank you, John '62BT7 From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 8 19:53:58 2010 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:53:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Message-ID: Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Apr 8 19:57:12 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:57:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <879501.9513.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Makes those $100k Kurt Tanner restos look like a bargain. I'm still perplexed by the gearchange. It certainly looks like that's the gear lever to the right of the driver. The emergency brake lever is visible next to the center tunnel but no gear lever there. Can't understand why someone would want the gear lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could be fitted to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: "'T+ B Willig'" , "healeys at autox.team.net" Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 7:57 PM G'day A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- Sitting Down? Euros 270,000 Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami proprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From MBran89793 at aol.com Thu Apr 8 20:00:38 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:00:38 EDT Subject: [Healeys] transmission removal Message-ID: <21da5.40ed4482.38efe446@aol.com> "Got 'er done" OK. Great job. In a message dated 4/8/2010 9:49:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, edic at tampabay.rr.com writes: I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this email to the Healey list. My third attempt. Mel I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is as tounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From mgcharlie at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 20:19:37 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:19:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Message-ID: <4BBE8EB9.6000708@comcast.net> Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 20:26:42 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:26:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: What's more scary is the AUD price and USD price is almost the same amount! On 4/9/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 8 20:41:31 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 21:41:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <4BBE93DB.5040002@justbrits.com> << My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing >> er Patrick, do you mean price of car or your mate NOT going onwards ?!? Enquiring minds and all that !!!! -:)-:)-:) Anon From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 8 20:48:37 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:48:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] transmission removal In-Reply-To: <005701cad781$e1affa80$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <005701cad781$e1affa80$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <4BBE9585.2020702@bradakis.com> edic wrote: > I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my > transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this > email to the Healey list. My third attempt. > > Mel > So why did you ignore the first attempt that made it to the list?? http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/2010-04/msg00141.html mjb. From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 8 21:13:51 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:13:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100408221351.QXZ6G.1107961.root@ispmxfep12-z01> I have one but never use it so don't know about how it keeps time. ---- S and T Miller wrote: ============= Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 21:18:39 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:18:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BBE9C8F.4060308@comcast.net> John, Those are honest-to-god rivets. There are pneumatic guns--similar to pneumatic chisels--or large squeezers to set these (you also need a bucking bar to use the gun). Both would cost a Benjamin or two, although you might be able to rent or borrow them somewhere. Most A&P (airframe and powerplant) mechanic or experiemental airplane builder would probably have one or the other. bs john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > rear shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 8 21:20:11 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:20:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBE9CEB.4000703@comcast.net> I have one--believe it's a repo of the original toy--and the clock and radio work fine, but the buttons to set the time and alarm have all but ceased to function. bs S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off > every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From rwil at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 8 21:32:41 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:32:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] transmission removal In-Reply-To: <4BBE9585.2020702@bradakis.com> References: <005701cad781$e1affa80$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <4BBE9585.2020702@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <2t7tr55tucpehm0lqu5tmtda4bqo42odoq@4ax.com> Maybe his ISP filters out his own postings from his received email? On Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:48:37 -0600, you wrote: ::edic wrote: ::> I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my ::> transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this ::> email to the Healey list. My third attempt. ::> ::> Mel ::> :: ::So why did you ignore the first attempt that made it to the list?? :: ::http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/2010-04/msg00141.html :: :: :: ::mjb. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 21:38:44 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:38:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. He took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the tips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style rivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it fit under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the rivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one for my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear > shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From kags at shaw.ca Thu Apr 8 21:42:37 2010 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:42:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio References: Message-ID: <0DB5CF1A65644FE4B8EA5679C211BADB@computer> Millers: I use mine - seems to keep good time and doesn't leak oil. Maybe you got one with a Lucas clock movement. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "S and T Miller" To: Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:53 PM Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Thu Apr 8 21:47:44 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John Rowe) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 13:47:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rowe" To: "Quinn, Patrick" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > Patrick- you must have some cheapskate friends- sounds like a real bargain > to me, but I will be taking no action either -does that make me a > cheapskate also? > > Pleased to meet you at last at the rally and have a chat. We had a good > time, and a good trip home at leisurely pace. Trust you did also > > Cheers > John > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Quinn, Patrick" > To: "'T+ B Willig'" ; > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:57 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > >> G'day >> >> A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the >> seller. >> >> A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- >> >> Sitting Down? >> >> Euros 270,000 >> >> Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 >> >> My friend will no be taking it further. >> >> Amazing >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> ________________________________ From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Apr 8 22:02:01 2010 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:02:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <4BBE93DB.5040002@justbrits.com> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> <4BBE93DB.5040002@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE147@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> No he will not negotiate further as he is of the opinion that it is far too pricey. Says I as I tuck into my Mongolian Lamb Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 12:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale << My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing >> er Patrick, do you mean price of car or your mate NOT going onwards ?!? Enquiring minds and all that !!!! -:)-:)-:) Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 9 02:10:44 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:10:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not keep the time anymore. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von S and T Miller Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 03:54 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From healeyron at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 04:57:14 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 03:57:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <560730.76553.qm@web32902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have had my Barbie Healey Clock Radio since they were first introduced. Has kept perfect time since than. I only reset it twice a year for Daylight Savings Time. The Radio is another issue. Probably the worst Clock Radio I have ever owned. Enjoy the day Ron ________________________________ From: S and T Miller To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 8, 2010 9:53:58 PM Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 05:54:18 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 04:54:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408231440.02087168@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100408231440.02087168@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gentlemen, I'll see about getting everyone pictures. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 11:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > Curt, > > The eight ball was pointing in that direction; you have sealed it by > providing valuable information! > > Pictures would help if easily obtainable; if not, I can handle it. > > Thank you, > John > > > At 08:38 PM 4/8/2010 -0700, you wrote: > >> John, >> >> You'll have to make one. >> >> One of the best ways.... >> I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar >> one for my Healey project. From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 9 07:20:58 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:20:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> John, The easiest way is to use pop rivets and fill the holes with some kind of liquid metal (aluminium) and polish the heads before painting. When its properly done they look like solid rivets. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Curt/Nancy Arndt Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 05:39 An: john spaur Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. He took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the tips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style rivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it fit under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the rivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one for my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > rear shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _________ From bighealey at charter.net Fri Apr 9 07:27:55 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 06:27:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <4BBE8EB9.6000708@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center console. Warm Regards, Tracy On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 07:28:37 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 06:28:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com Fri Apr 9 08:12:59 2010 From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:12:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A5538@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie one) From mslechta at chartermi.net Fri Apr 9 08:16:05 2010 From: mslechta at chartermi.net (Mike Slechta) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ; stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net From raymead at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 08:21:57 2010 From: raymead at comcast.net (raymead at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:21:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <4BBE8EB9.6000708@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2139275075.15508751270822917585.JavaMail.root@sz0131a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> not that this means anything........... but i just put one of these in my '53 Sunbeam Alpine......... great transmission - made a lot of difference...........B i rarely ever get it into 5th great............... ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Baldwin" To: "healey list" Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 10:19:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? B Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. B This is a relisting. B I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. B I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. B Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead at comcast.net From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 08:23:21 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:23:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie Clock Radio Message-ID: Bet you aren't in the US. Electric clocks generally (probably always, but I'm not sure), use the frequency of the electric current as the timing method. The clock radios were made for the US market so they work with 60 cycle current. I'll bet you are in a country that uses 50 cycle. Jack From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 08:41:48 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 07:41:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A5538@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A5538@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> Message-ID: <4BBF3CAC.9010207@comcast.net> Thanks. I stand corrected. bs Johnsen, Bernard F (AS) wrote: > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. > > > Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older > digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use > divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later > designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. > > - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie > one) > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 9 08:51:44 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:51:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>, <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net>, Message-ID: I think that this is what they're talking about: http://www.team.net/www/healey/autobila/barbie.html RD > From: mslechta at chartermi.net > To: bspidell at comcast.net; Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:05 -0500 > CC: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something > new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? > Mad Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ; stmiller96 at hotmail.com > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > > Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) > 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop > from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could > change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power > producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid > they are precisely synchronized. > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have > switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC > with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC > then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). > > bs > > > > > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a > constant > > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the > frequency > > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could > not > > keep the time anymore. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette at sympatico.ca From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Fri Apr 9 08:53:02 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:53:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> References: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> Message-ID: <640F832A232F45FC90E06F9FFC9CDDA3@JerryPC> I have two of these Toyota conversions. I bought the conversion to move the shifter as far forward as possible for both. The transmissions are different years and one of them has more tension with that forward position. (harder to shift). It has worked itself in a little but stiffer. If you are putting it into a 3000 or BJ8, you need to hit the hole in the tunnel. Use the forward shift position. If it is going in a side shift, you can put the hole anywhere, so don't worry about it so much. Both my transmissions are out of Supras. Tracy's helpful hints should be read a few times before starting this project. It is simple, but there are always questions once you get started. I think his stuff is on John Sims website. Jerry -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tracy Drummond" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 6:27 AM To: "'Charlie Baldwin'" ; "'healey list'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that > is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle > shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of > mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net From 55healey at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 08:53:27 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:53:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100408231440.02087168@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <33A183CD-6C88-42B6-856B-65FB2D00019F@comcast.net> I just used the buck on the outside and a small ball peen hammer on the inside, aluminum rivets are soft and easy to peen. Rob >> >>> John, >>> >>> You'll have to make one. >>> >>> One of the best ways.... >>> I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a >>> similar >>> one for my Healey project. > ____________________________ From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Apr 9 09:12:54 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:12:54 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Message-ID: <20100409.111254.19167.0@webmail18.dca.untd.com> You can also sit corrected.................... :) Thanks. I stand corrected. bs Johnsen, Bernard F (AS) wrote: > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. > > > Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older > digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use > divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later > designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. > > - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie > one) > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bbf444c3e4e31a1c21st01duc From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Apr 9 09:25:32 2010 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:25:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Message-ID: <008301cad7f8$e54c8920$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> < Can't understand why someone would want the gear lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could be fitted to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. > The right-hand gearshift (on a right hand drive car ) was traditionally considered to be a luxury feature found only on high-end cars which were at first mostly chauffeur-driven. Chauffeurs were expected to put up with more inconveniences like no roofs and clambering over the shift lever, in favour of more driving control from the right arm. Rolls-Royce and Daimler had it, and upscale BMC cars such as the Wolseley 6-90 Series II (with C-series engine) , Riley Pathfinder, and Morris Isis (also with C-series engine) had a right-hand floor shift. I'm curious too to see how the linkage adapted to the Healey transmission. The Coupe appears to have it routed under the tranny. Rolls had the RH shift lever mounted on the frame rail with a straight transverse rod connecting it to the tranny similar to the lengthways shift extension on a BMC Mini Cooper. Have to locate a Morris Isis parts book and find out. Best Peter From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 09:26:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:26:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes > off > every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 09:28:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:28:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <879501.9513.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <879501.9513.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Could be a static display show car I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 8, 2010, at 6:57 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Makes those $100k Kurt Tanner restos look like a bargain. I'm still > perplexed > by the gearchange. It certainly looks like that's the gear lever to > the right > of the driver. The emergency brake lever is visible next to the > center tunnel > but no gear lever there. Can't understand why someone would want > the gear > lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could > be fitted > to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Quinn, Patrick > wrote: > > From: Quinn, Patrick > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > To: "'T+ B Willig'" , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 7:57 PM > > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the > seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 > gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Fri Apr 9 09:30:44 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 11:30:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <8CCA610C0CC0FBD-198C-116AB@webmail-d006.sysops.aol.com> Another way that I have seen done is to use a die to cut threads onto the shaft of the rivet. Then an appropriate nut is threaded onto the shaft after the rivet is installed. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 8:20 am Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, he easiest way is to use pop rivets and fill the holes with some kind of iquid metal (aluminium) and polish the heads before painting. When its roperly done they look like solid rivets. Josef Eckert onigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- on: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im uftrag von Curt/Nancy Arndt esendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 05:39 n: john spaur c: healeys at autox.team.net etreff: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. e took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the ips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style ivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it it under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the ivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one or my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear shroud at the boot lip? Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? Thank you, John '62BT7 _________ ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Apr 9 10:16:39 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: Like Erkel (sp) from the TV sitcom? Rich Kahn > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:26:47 +0800 > From: healey.nut at gmail.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Alan Seigrist > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > To: S and T Miller > > Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing > with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the > Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more > hair on their chests... > > ;) > > On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes > > off > > every month or so. Just curious. > > > > The Millers > > "British Car Nuts" > > > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > > drive." > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 9 10:30:12 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:30:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Alan, it is much easier to drive a Healey than an Isetta. In a BMW Isetta you feel the hill as it slows down the speed of the car before you really see it and you need to think very much in advance to keep your speed. And you may detect any hole in the road, as all four wheels are on a different track. So the Isetta is a real drivers car, as you need to use your brain when driving it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 17:27 An: Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 > minutes off every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test drive." From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Apr 9 11:01:24 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 13:01:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <640F832A232F45FC90E06F9FFC9CDDA3@JerryPC> References: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> <640F832A232F45FC90E06F9FFC9CDDA3@JerryPC> Message-ID: <016201cad806$4a256ad0$de704070$@net> Look at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Werner/Smitty.pdf John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:53 AM To: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed I have two of these Toyota conversions. I bought the conversion to move the shifter as far forward as possible for both. The transmissions are different years and one of them has more tension with that forward position. (harder to shift). It has worked itself in a little but stiffer. If you are putting it into a 3000 or BJ8, you need to hit the hole in the tunnel. Use the forward shift position. If it is going in a side shift, you can put the hole anywhere, so don't worry about it so much. Both my transmissions are out of Supras. Tracy's helpful hints should be read a few times before starting this project. It is simple, but there are always questions once you get started. I think his stuff is on John Sims website. Jerry From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net Fri Apr 9 20:12:41 2010 From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:12:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Message-ID: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> John, Pegasus sells the squeezer for setting solid rivets. They ain't cheap--about $185 for the tool and dies. regards, Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >Message: 15 >Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 >From: john spaur >Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88 at pop.att.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and >rear shroud at the boot lip? >Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? >Thank you, >John >'62BT7 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 17:38:04 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:38:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <008301cad7f8$e54c8920$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <570975.63972.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Peter, Thanks for the info. I located an Isis picture which looks to have the same gear lever: http://www.philseed.com/mo-six.html Still would love to see the linkage. As I reply when asked why I have a belt buckle shaped like a steering wheel: "It's been driving me nuts!" (No charge for the Friday Funny Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/9/10, Peter Svilans wrote: From: Peter Svilans Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 9, 2010, 11:25 AM I'm curious too to see how the linkage adapted to the Healey transmission. The Coupe appears to have it routed under the tranny. Rolls had the RH shift lever mounted on the frame rail with a straight transverse rod connecting it to the tranny similar to the lengthways shift extension on a BMC Mini Cooper. Have to locate a Morris Isis parts book and find out. Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Apr 9 18:21:22 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:21:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Message-ID: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? Thanks Paul From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 18:41:24 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:41:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> References: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> Message-ID: <4BBFC934.7010604@comcast.net> Tracy, Most or all of that stuff is available from Pete Delaney who now sells the Smitty conversion kit. Some is available aftermarket like the rear mount. It would make sense, though, to save the $$ and get all you can with the transmission. Another item would be the rubber boot on the clutch arm to make sure is included. So far no one in the area has bought this, which to me seems a good deal. Any center shift car would require the forward mount. Charlie Tracy Drummond wrote: > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of > mgcharlie.vcf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 9 18:55:03 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:55:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses In-Reply-To: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> References: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> Message-ID: <1D2860EFE1FD4ABBACFFC42E1AC09AC4@oscar> Yes, but you will have to dismount the heater from the firewall to do it in the shortest amount of time. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 6:21 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? Thanks Paul From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 9 19:07:12 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 18:07:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409180620.02004ae0@pop.att.yahoo.com> The Healey is back from the body shop and completely painted! From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Fri Apr 9 19:34:14 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:34:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed In-Reply-To: <4BBFC934.7010604@comcast.net> References: <4AB00CFE09474A0790D6F4DCE9CF8B51@TRACY> <4BBFC934.7010604@comcast.net> Message-ID: <316438.82586.qm@web113108.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> If you have trouble getting a forward shift mount a company in OZ does one. http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_accessories/manual.htm Don BN 1 OZ To: Tracy Drummond ; healey list Sent: Sat, 10 April, 2010 10:41:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Tracy, Most or all of that stuff is available from Pete Delaney who now sells the Smitty conversion kit. Some is available aftermarket like the rear mount. It would make sense, though, to save the $$ and get all you can with the transmission. Another item would be the rubber boot on the clutch arm to make sure is included. So far no one in the area has bought this, which to me seems a good deal. Any center shift car would require the forward mount. Charlie Tracy Drummond wrote: > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of > mgcharlie.vcf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 19:36:11 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:36:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses In-Reply-To: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> References: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> Message-ID: Paul - it's a bit tight but not as difficult as you may think. Remove the centre console, remove the cable connections, then remove the six panhead screws (or is it eight, can't recall) holding the box to the firewall. It will come straight down. I bet it's the heater valve, not your hose. They go bad all the time. Helps to drain some water out of the radiator first. Alan On 4/10/10, PG wrote: > I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! > > > > Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From ynotink at msn.com Fri Apr 9 20:24:53 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 02:24:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> References: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> Message-ID: I've been looking for a squeezer or a set of snaps for some riveting I need to do on a series I Land Rover, so I've had an opportunity to study the problem a little bit. The problem with a squeezer in the case of the shroud to boot surround rivets on a Healey is that the ends of the rivets are within a sheet metal "C" section that is difficult or impossible for any standard shape of squeezer (like a pair of pliers) to access. The shroud to boot floor rivets are a little easier to access. In the case of the tougher ones I think a set of snaps makes more sense. That is a set of punches with reliefs of the shapes of the rivet heads machined in. The idea is to drive the rivet head using one snap and to buck it with the other. If the recesses are the correct shape and the rivets are the right length they should form a perfectly shaped head on both ends. Well, we can always dream... In a case where access is tough you can use a bucking bar with the head shape machined in several places so that one is likely to allow access. Using a snap set is a two man job unless you have a powered riveting tool and then you need someone to position the bucking bar if it is not in a really easy place to access. The bucking bar should be fairly massive to provide the inertia needed to set the rivet without distorting the sheet metal. The idea of threading the rivet is exactly opposite to what is needed. The purpose of the rivet is to expand when it is set to fill the rivet holes and provide positive contact and positioning. Pulling torque on the rivet will tend to neck it or reduce its section and leave the sheet metal loose.It will vibrate and the rivet will eventually wear away. I found a lot of information on this subject on the internet. Unfortunately I did not find a source of snaps and so I'm thinking about finding a tool and die maker who likes my brand of beer. Bill Lawrence > From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net > To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:12:41 -0700 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > > John, > Pegasus sells the squeezer for setting solid rivets. They ain't cheap--about > $185 > for the tool and dies. > regards, > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks > > > >Message: 15 > >Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 > >From: john spaur > >Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > >To: healeys at autox.team.net > >Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88 at pop.att.yahoo.com> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > >How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > >rear shroud at the boot lip? > > >Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > >Thank you, > >John > >'62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 9 20:24:49 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 22:24:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409180620.02004ae0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409180620.02004ae0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, Congratulations. Now you'll have lots of fun assembling and installing all the bits to complete the car. Don't scratch anything! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john spaur" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:07 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone > The Healey is back from the body shop and completely painted! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From ynotink at msn.com Fri Apr 9 20:36:37 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 02:36:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <570975.63972.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <008301cad7f8$e54c8920$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>, <570975.63972.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Many of the british cars of the brass, vintage and classic eras used a right hand shifter with right hand drive. Some early american cars did the same before the left hand drive convention was agreed on. Some shining examples were the early Bentley and I believe Rolls-Royce. Take a look at a few. I don't think you will have trouble finding examples. Bill Lawrence > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:38:04 -0700 > From: healeyrick at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net; peter.svilans at rogers.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > Peter, > > Thanks for the info. I located an Isis picture which looks to have the same > gear lever: http://www.philseed.com/mo-six.html Still would love to see the > linkage. As I reply when asked why I have a belt buckle shaped like a > steering wheel: "It's been driving me nuts!" (No charge for the Friday > Funny > > Rick From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 9 20:51:00 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 19:51:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses In-Reply-To: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> References: <000b01cad843$bfa1a250$3ee4e6f0$@ca> Message-ID: <4BBFE794.5090207@comcast.net> Just did this. It can be done without removing the dash or dropping the heater, but it's a tight squeeze and you have to be a bit of a contortionist (console will probably have to come out, though). Thankfully, I have these really tiny hands. Don't forget to put new firewall grommets in while you're at it (preferably, before you fit the new hose). bs PG wrote: > I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! > > > > Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 9 23:53:39 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 22:53:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: References: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409224318.01fa8d08@pop.att.yahoo.com> There is a lot of interest on this subject! Great information such as: Fill the rivet with liquid aluminum and paint Snap style rivets (two piece I presume) How rivets work (compression and expansion to fill the hole) Tool suggestions - sources, costs and types; air hammers, chisels, bucks Methods - weight on the head while forming the penned end What did the factory use? Will someone just loan it to me? I can always dream; right! At 02:24 AM 4/10/2010 +0000, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >I've been looking for a squeezer... for some riveting I need to >do... The problem with a squeezer in the case of the shroud to boot >surround rivets on a Healey is that the ends of the rivets are >within a sheet metal "C" section that is difficult or impossible for >any standard shape of squeezer... > >Bill Lawrence From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 10 01:22:38 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 00:22:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-sys tems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409233837.01fa7110@pop.att.yahoo.com> Josef, You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! John Spaur At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >John, >The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... > >Josef Eckert From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Apr 10 02:15:57 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:15:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409233837.01fa7110@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100409233837.01fa7110@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF2D@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> John, I have to say I am very much in Concours. I am just doing the organization for National Concours in the UK. But my personal opinion is we should stay on the ground and not taking Concours as our religion. As an example, for my cars I give me the freedom to paint the engine parts first and then assemble them and not painting all over when assembled. I can also fully understand when others try to get it as close as it was done by the factory. I do not mind that, but I also allow some sort of variance, when its too much efforts to go the factory way or we have better materials or methods now which can be used. For the rivets, I think here you may have one out of 200 Healeys with the original rivets. All others have the pop rivets used. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von john spaur Gesendet: Samstag, 10. April 2010 09:23 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Josef, You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! John Spaur At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >John, >The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... > >Josef Eckert From grday at btinternet.com Sat Apr 10 02:32:37 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:32:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100409233837.01fa7110@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <80D55A58B4224187BD2EF75FEF866924@user8634b3d69b> Good comment on both sides. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 8:22 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > Josef, > You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not > chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored > collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; > Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect > originality. > > The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM > parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list > resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars > is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! > > John Spaur > > At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >>John, >>The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... >> >>Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sat Apr 10 02:54:34 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:54:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob You might be interested to know that during WWII in West London we regularly experienced a drop in frequency during the day. We were told that this was a method of lowering power consumption. It was not much and presumable within legal limits but by the evening synchronous electric clocks could be up to 8 minutes slow. However by the morning they would be correct so presumably the frequency would be above the nominal 50Hz (or should I say 50 cps as they were then) during the night. We did not have a National Grid at that time but I believe that all London power stations were linked together. Regards >Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) >'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop >from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could >change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power >producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid >they are precisely synchronized. > >Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by >an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to >DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency >change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have >switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC >with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC >then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). > >bs > > > > >Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant >> 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency >> slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not >> keep the time anymore. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/GERMANY >> > > -- John Harper From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Apr 10 03:18:10 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:18:10 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com><4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Slechta Sent: Saturday, 10 April 2010 12:16 AM To: Bob Spidell; Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ; stmiller96 at hotmail.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta at chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Apr 10 03:24:47 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:24:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: G'day Alan I also have driven Isettas. In fact both the 3 and 4 wheel versions. Fun little car that you really have to plan ahead when a hill is coming up. Interesting, the 4 wheel versions were made in Brighton in the UK and as there was no road access to the factory (ex locomotive factory) everything went in and out by train. If you lived in the English countryside it was possible to order you Isetta to be delivered along with your weekly supply of Stilton. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: Saturday, 10 April 2010 2:30 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Alan, it is much easier to drive a Healey than an Isetta. In a BMW Isetta you feel the hill as it slows down the speed of the car before you really see it and you need to think very much in advance to keep your speed. And you may detect any hole in the road, as all four wheels are on a different track. So the Isetta is a real drivers car, as you need to use your brain when driving it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 17:27 An: Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 > minutes off every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Sat Apr 10 05:31:53 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:31:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF2D@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FEB7@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20100409233837.01fa7110@pop.att.yahoo.com> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FF2D@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <923E0B3A-856A-4364-8B80-72E03B48412D@bornet.net> I use the same method as Roger Moment. His method was discussed earlier. It4s quite easy to bend a buck the shape of the rear shroud. Once that is done it is very simple to attach the correct solid rivets with the help of an air powered chisel or even better a purpose made air rivet hammer. As far as when it comes to concours, should not the factory methods and materials serve as the standard that all interested in concours are aiming for? If not who should decide what deviations are permitted? And what is the use of concours if we compete with cars that are not built to the original specification? Magnus Karlsson Bores Motor Corporation AB Husbondegatan 36B 507 60 Bores Phone +46-703-933349 www.concourshealeys.com 10 apr 2010 kl. 10.15 skrev : > John, > I have to say I am very much in Concours. I am just doing the organization for > National Concours in the UK. > But my personal opinion is we should stay on the ground and not taking > Concours as our religion. As an example, for my cars I give me the freedom to > paint the engine parts first and then assemble them and not painting all over > when assembled. > I can also fully understand when others try to get it as close as it was done > by the factory. I do not mind that, but I also allow some sort of variance, > when its too much efforts to go the factory way or we have better materials or > methods now which can be used. For the rivets, I think here you may have one > out of 200 Healeys with the original rivets. All others have the pop rivets > used. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von john spaur > Gesendet: Samstag, 10. April 2010 09:23 > An: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > > Josef, > You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not > chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, > one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high > quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. > > The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters > and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so > valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the > history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! > > John Spaur > > At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> John, >> The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... >> >> Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 10 05:51:37 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:51:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Message-ID: <000601cad8a4$2dab7d10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Thought this may be of some interest to others on the list. Sorry to the purists. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "PG" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses > Hey Paul, sorry your leaking. Question, how badly do you need a > heater in your area? I live in IN > and usually put my Brit cars up before it gets "heater cold" The reason > I ask is because if you eliminate the heater unit operation you can also > eliminate a lot of heat and coolant spillage in the car. I have always > looked at the Healey unit as an accident waiting to happen since its > inside the car rather than under the hood. You can drain the coolant > from the heater and cap off those hoses at the fire wall and then just > run a long hose from one side of the engine to the other to bypass the > heater and drive with a little more coolness. Just leave the heater in > place. > > My MGA has never had a heater and the Healey unit is bypassed but still > looks original to anybody else. My wife needs to sit a bit closer to me > on those chillier nights, not so bad. And we always have a blanket of > some sort in the trunks if she really needs one. I love the cool breezes. > > Good Luck, > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "PG" > To: > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:21 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses > > >> I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! >> >> >> >> Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model >> BJ8? >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 10 05:54:27 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 04:54:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion Message-ID: <304196.67160.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Apr 10 07:02:55 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:02:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion In-Reply-To: <304196.67160.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <123768.2754.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> http://www.cobranda.com/co4sptrrifor.html Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 4/10/10, john doe wrote: From: john doe Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 10, 2010, 7:54 AM anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 10 07:19:20 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:19:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BC07AD8.1090007@comcast.net> That is interesting--may come in handy if I ever get a ride in the Cash Cab. But, I've never heard of it happening in the States. I'm not sufficiently well-versed in electronic theory to know how lowering the frequency can lower consumption. If so, that means the 50Hz system is more efficient and perhaps we should change to it. Power is a function of voltage and current, but there may be a frequency factor in the RMS computation for AC. Any EE's on the List care to explain? bs John Harper wrote: > > Bob > > You might be interested to know that during WWII in West London we > regularly experienced a drop in frequency during the day. We were told > that this was a method of lowering power consumption. It was not much > and presumable within legal limits but by the evening synchronous > electric clocks could be up to 8 minutes slow. However by the morning > they would be correct so presumably the frequency would be above the > nominal 50Hz (or should I say 50 cps as they were then) during the night. > > We did not have a National Grid at that time but I believe that all > London power stations were linked together. > > Regards > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Apr 10 08:33:42 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 00:33:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: Hi Patrick We just got back to Brizzy after 2700 trouble free miles in the Ward Special coupe at about 32mpg and using less than a litre of oil. The car must be worth a million on the basis of the Belgian car. And that's one ugly mother too! Good to meet you at Creswick CHeers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "'T+ B Willig'" ; Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig at wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig From 2x2doc at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 09:13:09 2010 From: 2x2doc at gmail.com (2x2doc at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:13:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release --resolved Message-ID: <00504501701d8224310483e35910@google.com> All, I wrote about my brand new booster not releasing a few weeks ago. With the suggestions from the list I realized that it had to be air control valve so I took it apart. I seems two plastic parts (plunger and valve seat) were not completely seated together keeping the valve closed. I then remembered that the cap over the air control valve assembly had been knocked off in shipping so I figure these other parts must have also come loose during shipping. The brakes now work great. As a plug for Mr Finespanner (Doug Reid) I bought new brake a clutch lines and they are perfect. I also put in his clutch bleeder extension and highly recommend it. It makes bleeding the clutch line trivial. Pat Williams From kags at shaw.ca Sat Apr 10 10:06:14 2010 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:06:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30132FD1B@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4BBF2B85.8090802@comcast.net> Message-ID: G'day yourself Patrick: Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! Cheers,Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 10 00:35:33 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 23:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409180620.02004ae0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100409225450.0207e4e0@pop.att.yahoo.com> /MiXQMp: Permission denied From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 10 13:20:09 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:20:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1803922736.5998421270927209501.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> That, and the AC current is 180deg out-of-phase. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA G'day yourself Patrick: Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! Cheers,Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sat Apr 10 18:56:29 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:56:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion In-Reply-To: <304196.67160.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <304196.67160.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BC11E3D.2070108@comcast.net> I don't know a lot about BJ8s, but if the shifter comes through at the same place, why would you need anything different from what is stock? Using the forward shift position the shift lever should be in pretty much the stock position on any center shift car. Charlie john doe wrote: > anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 19:15:24 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:15:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio In-Reply-To: <1803922736.5998421270927209501.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1803922736.5998421270927209501.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - In Australia the electricity is different, it's called AC/DC. Alan On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 3:20 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > That, and the AC current is 180deg out-of-phase. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > G'day yourself Patrick: > > Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! > > Cheers,Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > > > > > G'day > > Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. > > Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what > it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 19:28:38 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:28:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: You know, I wonder if that's the same Frenchman that's here in Hong Kong, with a 3000 that's sitting in the jungle for 15 years and rusted to the core. He only wants USD 50,000 for it. Maybe a little spray can Rustoleum should fix it. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 23:11:23 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:11:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale In-Reply-To: References: <000901cad73d$42451140$c6cf33c0$@de> <3F6B02410E80C246B6B83165C250C21502B9DBE13C@SLUGPEXMC02.central.det.win> Message-ID: POR 50 would be better On Sat, Apr 10, 2010 at 6:28 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > You know, I wonder if that's the same Frenchman that's here in Hong Kong, > with a 3000 that's sitting in the jungle for 15 years and rusted to the > core. He only wants USD 50,000 for it. Maybe a little spray can Rustoleum > should fix it. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Quinn, Patrick < > Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > > wrote: > > > G'day > > > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the > seller. > > > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > > > Sitting Down? > > > > Euros 270,000 > > > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > > > Amazing > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 00:56:45 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:56:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Major Milestone Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100410235625.0200eda0@pop.att.yahoo.com> >At 10:24 PM 4/9/2010 -0400, you wrote: >>....Now you'll have lots of fun (cleaning, bead blasting, >>degreasing, priming and painting or plating or powder coating) >>assembling and installing all the bits to complete the car. Don't >>scratch anything! >>Rich >OMG, I already dropped the bonnet from 7' when I was trying to store >it. Dave, the body shop owner, fixed it for no additional charge!) >Yes, this is a lot more fun than taking everything apart!! Aside >from the mechanical labor, there is a tremendous amount of research >and preparation one must do for the materials, methods and restoration setups. > >The hoop rivets are a great example. The list responses ranged from >easy and ubiquitous to concourse correct with suggestions to solving >the tool issues. > >This list is GREAT! > >I need to move on now; (with tongue in check) would someone please >loan me the factory tool? :-) > >Cheers, >John From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 11 04:14:24 2010 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 03:14:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist Message-ID: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 05:19:46 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:19:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist In-Reply-To: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Apr 11 05:31:20 2010 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 04:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind Rivets at Skirt Rail Message-ID: Is this like what you guys are looking for? I have used this company in the past to replace the rivets for the nameplates on the valve cover of my Bugeye. I was supposed to buy thousands of rivets at a time, but the salesman made the suggestion if I bought the hand rivet tolls ($25) for the tubular aluminum rivets for the nameplates, he would send a sample of 100 rivets with the tool. May be able to work out a similar deal with one of these "hand squeezers". http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82b.htm Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 11 06:45:09 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:45:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist In-Reply-To: References: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004101cad974$d2cb6820$78623860$@net> When I installed my Pertronix, I had to retime the engine to get it to work smoothly as Alan suggested. Simple procedure but it was necessary for me and now the engine hums. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:20 AM To: john doe; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 07:19:46 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 06:19:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist In-Reply-To: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Are you getting spark at the coil when cranking? Yes - Proceed NO fault trace distributor/coil wiring Are you getting spark at the plugs Yes- Check timing NO Fault trace distributor cap and rotor. On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 3:14 AM, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 11 07:59:29 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 13:59:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1830011705.6138471270994369810.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Am assuming 'pertronics 11' is a dual 'point' kit? Anyway, the last Lister that had this problem (maybe it was on the Forum) didn't have the Pertronix grounded. Pertronix switchers aren't grounded through the distributor--you need a separate ground lead (I like to use the white/black wire that goes to the master cutoff switch--but you have to move the terminal to the same terminal as the battery ground). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ From JLevy10531 at aol.com Sun Apr 11 08:52:40 2010 From: JLevy10531 at aol.com (JLevy10531 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:52:40 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 239 Message-ID: <77196.74f0644c.38f33c38@aol.com> RE: Mallory dist. with petronex ignition. your questions were answered except for the ballast resister. you remove it permanently- you dont need it with electronic ignition. i have 2 healeys one with mallory other stock both with petronex ignition --no balast! Jay Levy In a message dated 4/11/2010 10:17:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: From joemulqueen at yahoo.com Sun Apr 11 08:57:33 2010 From: joemulqueen at yahoo.com (joe mulqueen) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 07:57:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] re Mallory dist Message-ID: <674796.36531.qm@web82205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Not sure if anyone mentioned, but the thing on side of distributor body is likely the capacitor and should be removed. The two pertronix wires - one goes to the 12v source and other goes to coil. Do you have the instruction sheet? Regards, JoeM (recently did same conversion to Mallory DP in my neg grnd MGA). From: john doe Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist To: Healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <681102.44153.qm at web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks From rjswain at hotmail.com Sun Apr 11 09:04:51 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 15:04:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Message-ID: I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 From pennell at cox.net Sun Apr 11 09:35:13 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:35:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Delayed turn signals Message-ID: <20100411113513.0IJQ6.507000.imail@eastrmwml38> Listers, Went on a 160 mile jaunt yesterday with the BN7. She ran perfectly, although fuel mileage was poor. But had constant issues with the turn signals. Once flipping the lever it would take anywhere from 2 to 10 or so seconds for the flashing to begin. Is it time to clean the contacts in the relay? Any help appreciated Keith From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 11 10:10:34 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:10:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Delayed turn signals In-Reply-To: <20100411113513.0IJQ6.507000.imail@eastrmwml38> References: <20100411113513.0IJQ6.507000.imail@eastrmwml38> Message-ID: <4BC1F47A.2070102@chello.nl> Check the voltage. When it is well below 12V you get these effects. Kees Oudesluijs pennell at cox.net wrote: > Listers, > > Went on a 160 mile jaunt yesterday with the BN7. She ran perfectly, although fuel mileage was poor. But had constant issues with the turn signals. Once flipping the lever it would take anywhere from 2 to 10 or so seconds for the flashing to begin. Is it time to clean the contacts in the relay? > > Any help appreciated > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2804 - datum van uitgifte: 04/11/10 08:32:00 From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun Apr 11 12:54:37 2010 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:54:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail References: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> <6.2.3.4.2.20100409224318.01fa8d08@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0801463EF59946D5979D343667A15164@XPS400> I will add to this information: I was able to locate a type of Pop rivet that is closed on the bottom end. When in place, it looks just like a solid rivet that has been squeezed. Then just put a dab of filler on the top to hide the hole and paint. Looks exactly like the original rivets. Ron Fine 61BN7 > There is a lot of interest on this subject! Great information such as: From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 11 13:12:13 2010 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (jessmd1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:12:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] datsun conversion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <950271376.4048891271013133009.JavaMail.root@sz0172a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Can anyone give a blow by blow description of a Datsun 210 conversion with a rivergate kit on a 1275 cc 1959 Bugeye? From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 11 17:25:37 2010 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 23:25:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Message-ID: I am in the middle of the same project. Need to replace the plastic lens, felt and seals. I have no parts yet. I see Moss has the seals but nothing else. Any comments welcome. Richard of KY BN7 440 ------Original Message------ From: Rick Swain To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Sent: Apr 11, 2010 10:04 I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 11 18:07:51 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:07:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cad9d4$31de3220$959a9660$@net> You can get everything from British Car Specialists. I just did and they are great. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:26 PM To: Rick Swain ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing I am in the middle of the same project. Need to replace the plastic lens, felt and seals. I have no parts yet. I see Moss has the seals but nothing else. Any comments welcome. Richard of KY BN7 440 ------Original Message------ From: Rick Swain To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Sent: Apr 11, 2010 10:04 I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 18:16:49 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:16:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] datsun conversion In-Reply-To: <950271376.4048891271013133009.JavaMail.root@sz0172a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <950271376.4048891271013133009.JavaMail.root@sz0172a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cad9d5$74579a00$5d06ce00$@com> Here is the abridged version from the Rivergate website: http://www.rivergate5speed.com/5installation.html The full 11 page detailed instructions come with the conversion kit. Neil Anderson -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jessmd1 at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 2:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] datsun conversion Can anyone give a blow by blow description of a Datsun 210 conversion with a rivergate kit on a 1275 cc 1959 Bugeye? _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Sun Apr 11 20:58:27 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:58:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water pump pully removal Message-ID: Hey List, How does the Water pump pully come off the water pump? The pully is a 3/8 inch. Jerry From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 21:19:44 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:19:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 59 frog eye sprite $5K in portland Oregon Message-ID: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1677426613.html on craigs list. NFI will check out if serious -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 21:40:50 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:40:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Water pump pully removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If its a replacement pump, it will be a press on / off pulley. Just take it to a machine shop. Factory pumps had a bolt on pulley, but that was phased out almost immediately with rebuilds, I guess the factory stop providing threaded shafts. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 10:58 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote: > Hey List, > > How does the Water pump pully come off the water pump? > > The pully is a 3/8 inch. > > Jerry > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From al at bighealey.org Mon Apr 12 08:17:06 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:17:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> Message-ID: <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Sara: You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket and light assembly. Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 09:38:50 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 23:38:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? Message-ID: All - Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but diameters are similar. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 10:36:48 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:36:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan I know that Ahead4healeys have rolls of the larger 4" hoses and cut it off to suit with a hand saw, not sure about the smaller vent one, otherwise Ashley hinton make most of the heater parts (including new footwell flaps): http://www.mgcars.org.uk/ah/heater.htm cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 12 10:52:00 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:52:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC34FB0.3070505@chello.nl> Genarally they are replaced with plastic spiral wound tubes. Paper tubes were used extensively in European cars like Renault, Citrokn, Simca, VW, Opel, Ford etc. Try these, you could be lucky: http://www.newcoproducts.com/ferrari/air_ducting_hoses.htm http://www.clevaflex.com/pdf/Clevaflex_Air_Handling.pdf Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my > Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but > diameters are similar. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2806 - datum van uitgifte: 04/12/10 08:32:00 From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 11:09:00 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:09:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: don't remember if the old VW fresh air ones will work, but you might want to check them out On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my > Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but > diameters are similar. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon Apr 12 12:32:34 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:32:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Message-ID: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Hello, I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the original lines? Kind Regards, Tadek From davzu29 at cox.net Mon Apr 12 13:09:56 2010 From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:09:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] delayed turn signals Message-ID: <09621C286F9D4E7CBA3C13B67947B6A8@ORGANIZA79207D> In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my BJ8 illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering wheel hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. What's that about? David Z. From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 13:36:14 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: Hi all, would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something onto a driving car? Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/12 Al Fuller > Sara: > > You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would > pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket > and light assembly. > > Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside > is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of > the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: > http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 > > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at > www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount > [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two > aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage > rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing > the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are > huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to > figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck > lid.... > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From rwil at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 12 14:50:38 2010 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:50:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: Early BN1s have an aluminum rear deck lid, but if you have a steel lid you can use magnets. The type that are used to mount CB and ham antennas are very strong. They have a suitable plastic cover to keep the magnet from scratching paint. Or, if you have a removable rear luggage rack you could mount the brake light to it. I would be nervous about setscrews distorting the almost pure aluminum of a deck lid. I haven't tried to see if a bar of steel under an ally lid would link to a sufficiently strong magnet .... -Roland early BN1 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200, you wrote: ::Hi all, ::would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, ::only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to ::follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily ::car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount ::a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. ::Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something ::onto a driving car? ::Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands ::1964 BJ8 29432 :: ::2010/4/12 Al Fuller :: ::> Sara: ::> ::> You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would ::> pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket ::> and light assembly. ::> ::> Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside ::> is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of ::> the set screws From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Apr 12 14:53:32 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:53:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: brake switch Message-ID: You got a luggage rack (on the back of your car) ? Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Al Fuller ; Healey forum Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something onto a driving car? Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/12 Al Fuller > > Sara: > > You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would > pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket > and light assembly. > > Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside > is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of > the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: > http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 > > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at > www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount > [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two > aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage > rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing > the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are > huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to > figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck > lid.... > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 15:44:08 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:44:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: why not attach the antenna to the rear bumper with clamps, On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > Early BN1s have an aluminum rear deck lid, but if you have a steel lid > you can use magnets. The type that are used to mount CB and ham > antennas are very strong. They have a suitable plastic cover to keep > the magnet from scratching paint. Or, if you have a removable rear > luggage rack you could mount the brake light to it. I would be > nervous about setscrews distorting the almost pure aluminum of a deck > lid. I haven't tried to see if a bar of steel under an ally lid would > link to a sufficiently strong magnet .... > > -Roland > early BN1 > > On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200, you wrote: > > ::Hi all, > ::would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the > USA, > ::only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to > ::follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my > daily > ::car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to > mount > ::a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. > ::Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something > ::onto a driving car? > ::Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > ::1964 BJ8 29432 > :: > ::2010/4/12 Al Fuller > :: > ::> Sara: > ::> > ::> You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which > would > ::> pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the > bracket > ::> and light assembly. > ::> > ::> Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual > downside > ::> is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site > of > ::> the set screws > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 17:20:14 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:20:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] delayed turn signals In-Reply-To: <09621C286F9D4E7CBA3C13B67947B6A8@ORGANIZA79207D> References: <09621C286F9D4E7CBA3C13B67947B6A8@ORGANIZA79207D> Message-ID: David - You probably have a bad connection or bad ground somewhere. Chase the wires off the dash lights and disconnect and reconnect any bullet, screw or Lucar connector you find - that will clear off old surface corrosion and it should start working again. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 3:09 AM, David Z wrote: > In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my > BJ8 > illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering > wheel > hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. > What's that about? > David Z. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 17:29:56 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:29:56 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed In-Reply-To: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> References: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Message-ID: Tadek - The BN2 should have the front swage line embossed behind the wheel opening like all 6-cyl healeys. Only the BN1 had no front swage line. maybe fenders are swapped? Cove colors always start from the bottom of the swage indentation, not the top. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front > fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the > original lines? > > Kind Regards, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Mon Apr 12 17:38:13 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:38:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: <398364.22466.qm@web113112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Sara Check out how I mounted mine, I have just done a 3,000 mile trip and the light didn't move once. Go to John Sims website: - http://www.healey6.com/Technical/100%20TECHNICAL.PDF go to the Bookmarks and scroll down to High Level Brake Light. Have Fun Don BN1 OZ ________________________________ From: Al Fuller To: Carr&Edwards ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 13 April, 2010 12:17:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Sara: You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket and light assembly. Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 18:10:47 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:10:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed In-Reply-To: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> References: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, There were two different versions, a small diameter curve illustrated nicely on page 25 of "John Wheatley's Austin Healey 100 Super Profile" book, and the later and larger switch back curve that I have attached in a photo. I personally like the smaller diameter curve myself, but it's a matter of personal preference in my opinion. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 MG Midget, '06 Cooper S On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front > fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the > original lines? > > Kind Regards, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Correct 100M Swage Line Return.JPG] From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 18:16:56 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:16:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed In-Reply-To: References: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Message-ID: Tadek, Here are some photos of fellow list member Richard Korn's BN2. 12K original miles with original paint and the larger diameter swage line. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Tadek, > > There were two different versions, a small diameter curve illustrated > nicely on page 25 of "John Wheatley's Austin Healey 100 Super Profile" book, > and the later and larger switch back curve that I have attached in a photo. > I personally like the smaller diameter curve myself, but it's a matter of > personal preference in my opinion. > > Cheers, > > Curt Arndt > Carlsbad, CA > '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 MG Midget, '06 Cooper S > > > On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < > tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front >> fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the >> original lines? >> >> Kind Regards, Tadek >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0245.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0246.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0247.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0248.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0249.JPG] From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 12 18:40:13 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:40:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <398364.22466.qm@web113112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> <398364.22466.qm@web113112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BC3BD6D.6050400@justbrits.com> Don, sorry but your "directions" and link are incorrect -:). So folks go to: http://www.healey6.com/ SELECT "Technical" button AFTER you figure out how to re-size your monitor to see it. Then scroll down to the "Safety" box. THEN select the ninth [9th] Article: "Third Brake Light" or the tenth [10th] Article: "Third Brake Light Another Method". For a Big Healey I LOVE John's set-up on "Erica the Red". Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Apr 12 18:53:03 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:53:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed In-Reply-To: References: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Message-ID: <968EF2E1429643B48E1B801396058E92@LIFEBOOK> Sorry to differ Alan, but that's not correct. There was only a pressing on the inside as a trial for a sort time to attempt to stiffen these large expanses of flat metal on some front fenders, the front surfaces of these were lead loaded so the swage line still disappeared over the chrome spear. Nothing to do with BN2's vs. others. They also tried closing the vent slot toward the end of BN2 production, and some very late cars may or may not have had these on one or the other or neither, or both. No production Hundreds had a 6 cylinder swage carrying on down the wing like a 6 cylinder wing. Colour lines were generally toward the bottom of the cove but often varied and split the difference to at least make the colour line even from one panel to the next, Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" > Tadek - > > The BN2 should have the front swage line embossed behind the wheel opening > like all 6-cyl healeys. Only the BN1 had no front swage line. maybe > fenders are swapped? > > Cove colors always start from the bottom of the swage indentation, not the > top. > > Alan > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < > tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front >> fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the >> original lines? >> >> Kind Regards, Tadek From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Apr 12 19:10:09 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:10:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Great Vintage Video Message-ID: Some nice vintage racing video including some 100s and a 100s, racing from the 50s, in color, sweet! http://vimeo.com/10762127 There are some other good videos on the scroll list on the right as well including a Nash Healey restoration. Greg Lemon From davzu29 at cox.net Mon Apr 12 19:25:51 2010 From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:25:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch Message-ID: <7A54BDD25111480A8CF3CFFE3B794628@ORGANIZA79207D> I attached the 3rd brake light I made by using a magnetic material I got from a sign shop. I shaped the bottom side of the brake light to match the curve of the trunk lid, then placed the magnetic material on the trunk lid and glued the brake light to the material. After curing, I trimmed the magnetic material down flush with the edges of the light. I can attach and remove the brake light as needed. David Z. From healeynut at yahoo.com.au Mon Apr 12 22:48:53 2010 From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:48:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <4BC3BD6D.6050400@justbrits.com> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> <398364.22466.qm@web113112.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4BC3BD6D.6050400@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <710553.43155.qm@web113107.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Ed My link and instructions work and goes to my 100 Articles on John's site and shows how I mounted my high level brake light without having to drill holes in the rear shroud or boot (trunk) lid. Don ________________________________ From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 13 April, 2010 10:40:13 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Don, sorry but your "directions" and link are incorrect -:). So folks go to: http://www.healey6.com/ SELECT "Technical" button AFTER you figure out how to re-size your monitor to see it. Then scroll down to the "Safety" box. THEN select the ninth [9th] Article: "Third Brake Light" or the tenth [10th] Article: "Third Brake Light Another Method". For a Big Healey I LOVE John's set-up on "Erica the Red". Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut at yahoo.com.au From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Apr 13 03:58:25 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:58:25 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Message-ID: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome strips together. Does anyone have a source for these? When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were fitted to electric jug plug in cords. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 04:41:23 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:41:23 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws In-Reply-To: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Patrick - What size would these screws be? If I know I can point you in the right direction. Are they BA sizes? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Tue Apr 13 04:51:42 2010 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 03:51:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Re - delayed turn signals Message-ID: <895848.55396.qm@web24008.mail.ird.yahoo.com> I had the same on my BN2. A replacement flasher unit cured it. I'm not sure why this should be. It's strange that only the dash light stopped blinking and everything else worked fine. I wanted to retain the original flasher unit as it had all the correct markings on it and the new one doesn't. I'm going to re-can the new unit in the old housing when I get time. Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Message: 2 Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:09:56 -0400 From: "David Z" Subject: [Healeys] delayed turn signals To: Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <09621C286F9D4E7CBA3C13B67947B6A8 at ORGANIZA79207D> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my BJ8 illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering wheel hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. What's that about? David Z. From healeyron at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 05:52:25 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 04:52:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi all, I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on http://www.ahcso.com I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. Ron ________________________________ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Apr 13 05:56:22 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:56:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws In-Reply-To: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: Patrick, Here's the kicker....they are the same arrangement on the 3rd (last series) of Hundred sidescreens and they are quite faithfully reproduced by AH Spares. So somebody is making these little "screw/oval flat washer brazed assemblies" along with the sleeved slotted nuts, but they don't seem to sell them separately. Lots of Hundred owners need them to repair their second series (signal flap style) which nobody makes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of > slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Apr 13 06:26:40 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:26:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws In-Reply-To: References: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: G'day Alan They are standard VBS size - Very Bloody Small. Going on what Rich has said I think a call to HPM (OZ electrical switches, cords etc manufacturer) might be in order. Time for ZZZ. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _____ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, 13 April 2010 8:41 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick - What size would these screws be? If I know I can point you in the right direction. Are they BA sizes? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: G'day In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome strips together. Does anyone have a source for these? When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were fitted to electric jug plug in cords. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 06:41:44 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:41:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light Message-ID: I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and his great web site. You can see it by going to http://www.healey6.com/ He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. Jack From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue Apr 13 06:52:20 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:52:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws In-Reply-To: References: <6CAFCAEA821040D4B01AF49028649185@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F301330424@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Patrick, Ask AH Spares to make you an offer for the sidescreen screws. I have got the screws from them, but bought them over the counter. But you also need the nuts, as the thread is different to the original ones. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rich C Gesendet: Dienstag, 13. April 2010 13:56 An: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick, Here's the kicker....they are the same arrangement on the 3rd (last series) of Hundred sidescreens and they are quite faithfully reproduced by AH Spares. So somebody is making these little "screw/oval flat washer brazed assemblies" along with the sleeved slotted nuts, but they don't seem to sell them separately. Lots of Hundred owners need them to repair their second series (signal flap style) which nobody makes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of > slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Apr 13 06:55:05 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:55:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b401cadb08$8a65f740$9f31e5c0$@net> He uses the same third brake light that I used but his turn signal modification is a very good one! I have mine wired to a mechanical switch that is located on the brake pedal arm so that it will work if the pressure switch fails and vice versa. Point is that this particular light assembly is inexpensive and it looks great. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:52 AM To: Jaap Aeckerlin; Al Fuller; Healey forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on http://www.ahcso.com I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. Ron From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Tue Apr 13 07:06:50 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:06:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed In-Reply-To: References: <86E90F2454E6424198E5C33DE7757C3F@tm> Message-ID: Rich and all who mailed me photos, many thanks, they are most helpful! There is another good shot in the Concourse Guidelines, which is taken at the right angle. I have another question though. How is the paint at the door edge, how is far is it painted around the wheel arch, how is the sill painted? I understand the duo tones were painted after the normal paint process and were not really a part of it. Tadek From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Apr 13 07:40:13 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:40:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00b501cadb0e$d8ae09f0$8a0a1dd0$@net> The photos referred to are on the My Modifications section of the Technical Page. Unfortunately, that file is corrupted as my PDF converter fouled it up when I tried to update it last night. I am working on a fix and should have that back in business sometime later today or tomorrow. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Feldman Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:42 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and his great web site. You can see it by going to http://www.healey6.com/ He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Apr 13 08:16:12 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:16:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Re - delayed turn signals In-Reply-To: <895848.55396.qm@web24008.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <895848.55396.qm@web24008.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Looking at the wiring diagram for the FL5 flasher unit on a BJ8 there are two sets of contacts, one to drive the indicator light circuit and one to drive the Dash lights. The dash light contact points may need cleaning. It looks like a quick check to test if its the contacts would be to take the indicator can out of the circuit. Therefore terminal B (green cable from fuse) and terminal P (light green and pink cable to dash lights) and terminal L (green and brown feed to load / main indicator lights via trafficator switch) could all be shorted together. With the trafficator moved either side it should turn on thats side indicator light and dash lights permantly. If lights are dull or not working checks earth contacts. In theory this would work for the earlier cars that use the extra relay to switch between combined brake lights / indicators etc (dont quote me as I have not studied the diagram for the DB10 relay). cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 08:51:10 2010 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:51:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] History Channel Program on Austin Healey Message-ID: If anyone is interested the HC program on Healey is available on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270520495848&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT The usual disclaimer. Jack From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 09:26:39 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:26:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light In-Reply-To: <00b501cadb0e$d8ae09f0$8a0a1dd0$@net> References: <00b501cadb0e$d8ae09f0$8a0a1dd0$@net> Message-ID: Ok, so now that I have read the thread I will offer some real advice....As per the article on the GMC 3rd light. *http://tinyurl.com/y364kpk light for sale on ebay $52.95. says 7 available Looks really good * On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 6:40 AM, John Sims wrote: > The photos referred to are on the My Modifications section of the Technical > Page. Unfortunately, that file is corrupted as my PDF converter fouled it > up > when I tried to update it last night. I am working on a fix and should have > that back in business sometime later today or tomorrow. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jack Feldman > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:42 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light > > I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It > is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and > his > great web site. You can see it by going to > http://www.healey6.com/ > He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. > > I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't > seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From scvc70 at epix.net Tue Apr 13 10:11:34 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:11:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca><002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2><601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net><262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562><005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The BrakeLighter third brake light I used is designed to also function as turn signals, if desired. Love the idea of using flexible magnetic material from a sign shop! Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Mitchell" To: "Jaap Aeckerlin" ; "Al Fuller" ; "Healey forum" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:52 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > Hi all, > > > I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set > up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal > light. > He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set > up is > described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take > you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on > http://www.ahcso.com From dan at warner-associates.com Tue Apr 13 11:37:24 2010 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:37:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Volvo 1800S Message-ID: If anyone has an interest in a restored 69 Volvo 1800S please contact me off list or call. Dan 952-831-1340 From zorrolives1 at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 15:06:26 2010 From: zorrolives1 at comcast.net (Zorrolives) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:06:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Value of '64 3000 Mark III, Phase One Project Message-ID: <8EB28A54962943E693DA8491246029D1@EA5E71A6DE4A4D9> I have a partially disassembled Healey restoration project that kids and career have long since forced me to abandon. I have decided to sell the car, but am not really sure what to ask for it or where best to list it. Any guidance is appreciated. John From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 15:30:11 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Message-ID: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Apr 13 17:34:09 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:34:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> <53604.30147.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BC4FF71.5060906@earthlink.net> Ron, I like what Paul's done. It simplifies the modifications to the 6 cylinder roadster wiring. One can hook the leads to the wiring for the turn signal/brake lights. I have the same third brake light, but it's not clear (to me) from the photos exactly what the modifications to the light are. A description of what's been done would help. How many circuit board cutouts are there? Looks like two. Before and after photos or a drawing would help (cut/scrape here). Two resistors added? One resistor is attached to the two sides of the board. Looks like the other resistor is attached to the (new) lead for one tail light. I assume that the one of the existing leads has another resistor and is used for the other tail light. Just thinking out loud. I'll take my light apart and see if I can figure this out (or let the smoke out). It's probably dirt on the floor, but it looks like Paul's car has four exhaust pipes. :) Thanks for the link. Cheers, Bob Ron Mitchell wrote: > Hi all, > > > I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set > up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. > He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is > described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take > you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on > http://www.ahcso.com > > I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. > Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my > deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the > deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness > was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on > changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. > > Ron > ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Apr 13 17:38:28 2010 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:38:28 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Springthing Message-ID: <22b9.ee57a75.38f65a74@aol.com> Springthing is going to be sell out this year. We have 58 rooms reserved at the historic Boone Tavern and were able to get 8 more today. We do have a overflow hotel arranged but if you are planning to attend make your reservations soon. For complete info see bluegrassclub.com. Isn't it nice to be having this type of a problem? This is going to be a really good Springthing. We have an extremely diverse group coming, and so many different states represented too. Awesome. We have ten states represented, both coasts and top to bottom. Oregon to Maine and Michigan to Texas. The long distance trophy is going to be a hoot to decide on. We will have a long distance trophy! And don't forget a hard luck trophy too. With people driving these distances someone is bound to have a hard luck story. Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, KY, Maine, Michigan, Ohio, Oregon, Tennessee, Texas so far represented! Join us along the Bourbon Trail for Springtime in Kentucky! Jim Werner Louisville, KY From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 14 02:24:47 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:24:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> <262411CF572142A89870FE1BC6C4AE68@S0026273562> <005801cada4a$d655e930$8301bb90$@org> Message-ID: <4BC57BCF.5090809@chello.nl> I would suggest a few strips of double sided adhesive tape, the kind with a foam layer of about 1mm. Easy to remove if wanted with a hairdryer and you can remove the residue with a bit of white spirit. Use good quality tape (e.g. 3M) as some lesser quality stuff tends to disintegrate or become undone under heat from the sun. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Hi all, > would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, > only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to > follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily > car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount > a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. > Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something > onto a driving car? > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 03:13:19 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:13:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light Message-ID: Guys, I received a reaction from a Canadian lister regarding my query how to mount a 3rd brake light. He informed me that very cheap lights were sold on eBay, so I searched for 24LED 12V CAR REAR LIGHT BRAKE STOP TAIL RED LED BULBS and just bought such a light for 1 dollarcent. Don't ask me how the seller ("keyman.321") survives, and I haven't received the light yet, but at a total cost to me of 7 dollars (shipping is 6.99) there is not much to loose. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 03:34:43 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:34:43 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> References: <007301cace3f$e4e62530$aeb26f90$@ca> <002601cace7e$bca3c110$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> <601F1DA8-72C9-4D72-B0A0-1A062B1520C3@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:57 PM, robert westcott <55healey at comcast.net>wrote: > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to > turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED > light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit > the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Apr 14 06:22:26 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 7:22:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure to activate. With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:57 PM, robert westcott <55healey at comcast.net>wrote: > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to > turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED > light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit > the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 08:20:28 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:20:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> References: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> Message-ID: <000901cadbdd$a26edbb0$e74c9310$@net> That is what I have done. I have fixed the link to the modifications PDF which shows my wiring diagram and photos of my installation. It is in the My Modifications section of the Technical page of my site. Thanks for your patience, all but I had a severe boo-boo on my computer that took me longer than I wished to fix. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 8:22 AM To: Alan Seigrist; robert westcott Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure to activate. With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 an/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 08:27:52 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:27:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! In-Reply-To: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son several years ago???? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Wed Apr 14 08:32:02 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:32:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> References: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> Message-ID: Tom I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. What do others think? Regards >You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se >in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. >I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a >lot of pressure to activate. > >With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. > >tom -- John Harper From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 08:45:19 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 22:45:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> Message-ID: Tom - I guess some people have had problems with some of the switches out there, but I have four new switches on all four of my cars, and the lights on all of them go one with the first touch of pressure, no problems. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:32 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind > a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas > the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the > pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently > supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > > > You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >> the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >> the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >> pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom >> > > -- > John Harper From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Apr 14 09:49:29 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:49:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> Message-ID: I quite agree with you John. The problem lies in the fact that original equipment quality simply is not available unless you stumble across a stash of n.o.s. switches that are at least pre 1968. It seems to me that from about that point in time on Lucas things began to cheapen. The only originals that I've seen fail, had been sitting dry and unused for decades, then were put back to work. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Harper" Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 10:32 AM To: "Tom Felts" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill > behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard > whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on > the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and > recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > >>You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >>the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >>the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >>pressure to activate. >> >>With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >>kights. >> >>tom > > -- > John Harper > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From edriver at sasktel.net Wed Apr 14 10:04:40 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:04:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! In-Reply-To: <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> References: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> Message-ID: <4BC5E798.5050208@sasktel.net> Hi John The one you refer to was built by Chris Dimmock. Was there a contact name on the web site? I did not see one. Kind regards Ed John Sims wrote: > Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son several > years ago???? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 10:04:42 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 02:04:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! In-Reply-To: <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> References: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> Message-ID: <945B2B29-7639-439E-AC59-3ED11A88246C@gmail.com> Yes it is, its Colin Rule, but he doesn't have a son... He's just a "certifiable" Healey enthusiast!! http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html Sent from my iPhone On 15/04/2010, at 12:27 AM, "John Sims" wrote: > Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son > several > years ago???? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of HealeyRick > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:30 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! > > Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 > go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ > > Rick > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Apr 14 10:09:10 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:09:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100414110910.YJZW3.1197754.root@ispmxfep14-z02> I have few examples of "high" pressure to activate switches, but I know of at least 2 others (BJ8's) here thatr have the same problems and they added the mechanical sw for the same reason as I. I'm sure my pressure sw is an aftermarket one. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Tom - I guess some people have had problems with some of the switches out there, but I have four new switches on all four of my cars, and the lights on all of them go one with the first touch of pressure, no problems. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:32 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind > a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas > the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the > pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently > supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > > > You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >> the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >> the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >> pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom >> > > -- > John Harper From edriver at sasktel.net Wed Apr 14 10:18:59 2010 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:18:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] brake switch In-Reply-To: References: <20100414072226.R3OWN.1190897.root@ispmxfep14-z02> Message-ID: <4BC5EAF3.1040907@sasktel.net> Hi John One of the contacts original pressure switch on my BJ8 was damaged and I placed it with one from a supplier in the UK, both worked as your described for your 100. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon John Harper wrote: > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill > behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked > hard whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put > my foot on the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch > and my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original > and recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > >> You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se >> in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. >> I added the mechanical one because the original types always required >> a lot of pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Apr 14 11:09:01 2010 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:09:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Message-ID: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 14 12:46:28 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:46:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> Message-ID: <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goodman Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 15:47:58 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 07:47:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! In-Reply-To: <4BC5E798.5050208@sasktel.net> References: <420314.23416.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000e01cadbde$ab68b870$023a2950$@net> <4BC5E798.5050208@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <18C8254F-8E96-49EE-884F-DED267B01347@gmail.com> Hi Ed, No, it wasn't me, it's Colin Rule. Colin's half scale "Junior" was his first scale model Healey project, and the "junior 3000 GT" go kart is a later project. My daughter used to drive Junior at display days. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html Best Chris On 15/04/2010, at 2:04 AM, "E.A. Driver" wrote: > Hi John > > The one you refer to was built by Chris Dimmock. Was there a > contact name on the web site? I did not see one. > > Kind regards > Ed > > > John Sims wrote: >> Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his >> son several >> years ago???? >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Apr 14 17:40:53 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:40:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Message-ID: <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? Bob John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark Goodman > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace > the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. > It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the > high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is > there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does > have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am > sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on > the road and not in the garage. > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From craigsuerice at iquest.net Thu Apr 15 02:38:20 2010 From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig Rice) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 04:38:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net><001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob, I use NAPA SL144 on the 100, but find it necessary to elongate the threaded wire slot so it does not act like a guilotine. Craig Rice (Indiana) BN1 & BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Haskell" To: "John Sims" Cc: ; "'Mark Goodman'" Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:40 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the > 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo > switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? > > Bob > > John Sims wrote: >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >> SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >> does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I >> am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 04:18:59 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:18:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob - They all use the same switch up to BJ7, the only difference is on the BJ8 the switch has lucar terminals. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the > 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo > switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? > > Bob > > John Sims wrote: > >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >> SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >> does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 04:25:17 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:25:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Seems if you drill the hole all the way through the brass like the original Lucas switches, you'll be fine: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL144_0160673813# Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 4:38 PM, Craig Rice wrote: > Bob, > I use NAPA SL144 on the 100, but find it necessary to elongate the threaded > wire slot so it does not act like a guilotine. > > Craig Rice (Indiana) > BN1 & BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Haskell" > To: "John Sims" > Cc: ; "'Mark Goodman'" > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:40 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > > > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the >> 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo >> switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? >> >> Bob >> >> John Sims wrote: >> >>> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >>> SL144 >>> >>> John Sims, BN6 >>> Aberdeen, NJ >>> http://www.healey6.com >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >>> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >>> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >>> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >>> To: healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >>> >>> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >>> replace >>> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >>> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >>> the >>> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >>> is >>> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >>> does >>> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I >>> am >>> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >>> the road and not in the garage. >>> >>> >>> >>> Mark >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 04:40:47 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:40:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Message-ID: John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 That would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark Goodman > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace > the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. > It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for > the > high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, > is > there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does > have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am > sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on > the road and not in the garage. > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 06:18:49 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:18:49 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Message-ID: In over 30 years of driving sprites and big Healeys, I've only had a brake light switch fail once. At scrutineering..... Being a few hours from home, I went to the local Repco dealer. He sold me a "one size fits all for BMC cars" hydraulic brake switch. Rushed back to Wakefield Park racetrack - opened the box - and it had a tapered thread.... Long story short, i went over to the V8 supercar workshop (that used to be there), with the "new" one and the old (failed) one; he cut a new parallel thread to match the old one; I fitted it; bled the brakes; passed scrutineering; and ran all day. So $6 au plus a few beers I bought afterwards, and that switch is still in the BJ8 (6 yrs later); and still comes on with a light touch.... Pretty reliable in my experience. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 15/04/2010, at 8:40 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > John - > > Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch > is this > one: > > http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 > > > That would be the one for BJ8s.... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number >> ECH SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once >> again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the >> reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that >> special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? >> NAPA does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor >> shaft. I am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our >> cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 06:18:49 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:18:49 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net> <001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Message-ID: In over 30 years of driving sprites and big Healeys, I've only had a brake light switch fail once. At scrutineering..... Being a few hours from home, I went to the local Repco dealer. He sold me a "one size fits all for BMC cars" hydraulic brake switch. Rushed back to Wakefield Park racetrack - opened the box - and it had a tapered thread.... Long story short, i went over to the V8 supercar workshop (that used to be there), with the "new" one and the old (failed) one; he cut a new parallel thread to match the old one; I fitted it; bled the brakes; passed scrutineering; and ran all day. So $6 au plus a few beers I bought afterwards, and that switch is still in the BJ8 (6 yrs later); and still comes on with a light touch.... Pretty reliable in my experience. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 15/04/2010, at 8:40 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > John - > > Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch > is this > one: > > http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 > > > That would be the one for BJ8s.... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number >> ECH SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once >> again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the >> reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that >> special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? >> NAPA does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor >> shaft. I am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our >> cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 15 08:09:36 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:09:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net><001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> <4BC65285.2010800@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CCAABC6A33224B-17CC-198BB@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> While restoring my Phase 1 BJ8 I had heard all the horror stories about the pressure switch failing frequently &/or requiring a lot of pressure to operate. However, I had never personally experienced any of these issues. I decided to replace the original four way connector with a five way (from a Sprite, as I recall) & install a second pressure switch in the extra fitting. That switch was wired in parallel with a second switch installed in the original three way connector. Which ever switch closes first activates the brake lights & if one ever fails, I still have a backup switch installed & wired. An added benefit is that the new switch is installed in the brake lines after the booster, therefore it should see higher pressure & close sooner. Only two inconspicuous wires were required & a 5 way connector installed in place of the original four way. Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 15 08:16:21 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:16:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net><001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> Message-ID: <8CCAABD5B476932-17CC-19A96@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> That link doesn't work for me. Can you provide the NAPA part #? Thanks, Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Mark Goodman Sent: Thu, Apr 15, 2010 5:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this ne: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 hat would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 53 BN1 59 Jag Mk IX 64 BJ8 n Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goodman Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 09:08:36 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:08:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <8CCAABD5B476932-17CC-19A96@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net><001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net> <8CCAABD5B476932-17CC-19A96@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <00af01cadcad$86b59320$9420b960$@net> It is part of the link cited by Alan --- ECH SL143 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 10:16 AM To: healey.nut at gmail.com; ahbn6 at verizon.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; mkgoodman at att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches That link doesn't work for me. Can you provide the NAPA part #? Thanks, Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Mark Goodman Sent: Thu, Apr 15, 2010 5:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 That would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Apr 15 09:29:11 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:29:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community Message-ID: I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From ampole at hotmail.com Thu Apr 15 09:40:18 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:40:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In-Reply-To: <8CCAABD5B476932-17CC-19A96@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> References: <003901cadbf5$2f5328d0$8df97a70$@net><001001cadc02$cb27d0f0$617772d0$@net>, , <8CCAABD5B476932-17CC-19A96@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary part number to the link was ECH SL143 and direct link: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 10:24:30 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:24:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00be01cadcb8$2096b000$61c41000$@net> There is a notice on their web site. What a loss to the Healey community. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 11:10:36 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:10:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: wow!! I was just there last month to meet him face to face for the first time. Any details onhis passing? He sure looked healthy to me..... What a shame. Ira On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of > his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 11:41:00 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:41:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1556657091.7928231271353260604.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I am very sorry to hear this. I just ordered parts a couple weeks ago and inquired of Norman; there was no indication of anything amiss. My condolences to David and Sheila and the rest of the Nock family. He will be missed by many. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn From medlabinc at msn.com Thu Apr 15 12:48:22 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:48:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Message-ID: David and Sheila; I'm so sorry to see the news today. There's no way to begin to tally what your Dad has done for everyone and anyone interested in British cars. I'm glad to have met him. Sincerely, Dick Matson Cashmere, WA From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 15 12:51:07 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:51:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1859AE14686049B9B5819BB09171A1EC@LIFEBOOK> We're very sorry to hear of Norman Nock's passing. He and his wisdom and experience will be sorely missed in the Healey world. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Kahn" Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of > his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From rahosmer at citlink.net Thu Apr 15 13:36:41 2010 From: rahosmer at citlink.net (Richard Hosmer) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:36:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: <1556657091.7928231271353260604.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I had the great pleasure of talking with Norman several times at the annual UBSCC swap meets at Dixon (Sacramento area) CA, every May. A fine gentleman - he will be missed, that's for sure. Dick Hosmer BT7 Tricarb From abraund at siue.edu Thu Apr 15 14:00:30 2010 From: abraund at siue.edu (Dr. B) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:00:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC7705E.2050702@siue.edu> I want to add my condolences to the Nock family. As a Healey newbie in 1999, I called British Car Specialists and was greeted warmly by Norman Nock. He patiently listened to my "newbie" questions and provided detailed answers (+ some stories of his own) to this stranger. I purchased his Tech Talk at that time and when I received it, he had graciously autographed it under a personal message. I value that conversation and book so very much. Art Braundmeier HBJ8L/34199 Colorado Dick Matson wrote: > David and Sheila; > > I'm so sorry to see the news today. > > There's no way to begin to tally what your Dad has done for everyone and > anyone interested in British cars. > > I'm glad to have met him. > > Sincerely, > > Dick Matson > Cashmere, WA > > > -- Plagiarism is an academic crime, punishable by academic death. ---Tommy Lee Jones as Marshall Sharpe in Man of the House From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Apr 15 14:35:25 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:35:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cadcdb$33a5c190$9af144b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Jack, I just won one of these on eBay, per your tip. Including postage, it cost me #4.98! Postage from Hong Kong that is, so there may be a teeny weeny worry about quality and longevity. However, at that price, it's worth the gamble!! Thanks for the tip. I'll be interested in your ideas on mounting it. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin Sent: 14 April 2010 10:13 To: Healey forum Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light Guys, I received a reaction from a Canadian lister regarding my query how to mount a 3rd brake light. He informed me that very cheap lights were sold on eBay, so I searched for 24LED 12V CAR REAR LIGHT BRAKE STOP TAIL RED LED BULBS and just bought such a light for 1 dollarcent. Don't ask me how the seller ("keyman.321") survives, and I haven't received the light yet, but at a total cost to me of 7 dollars (shipping is 6.99) there is not much to loose. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From wpollock at inbox.com Thu Apr 15 15:12:24 2010 From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:12:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Message-ID: <8D69A028E6174CE2A68D7379FF6FA4C4@saybrook1> When I purchased my 100-6 in 1998 it was my first Healey. The following two years I had a number of conversations with Norm over the phone. In hind sight some them was probably things I could have figured out had I taken the time,but I always enjoyed talking with him so why not call. He was always helpful and as long as I ask questions he was ready with the answer. I met him at "Open Roads"in Lake Tahoe and what a gentleman. His knowledge and willness to share this knowledge will be missed. Bill Pollock-CT From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 17:37:14 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:37:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Message-ID: <495677.48195.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Norman was truly one of the keepers of the flame. Although we never met, I felt like I new him personally from his articles in the club magazines, tech tips and contributions to this list. We spoke by phone a few times ... a true gentleman. My sincere condolences to David and Sheila. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From pennell at cox.net Thu Apr 15 18:42:03 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:42:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100415204203.XQA9W.11732.imail@eastrmwml39> I have never met Norman. However, it was apparent through his frequent contributions to this list that he was truly a lover of the Healey and other marques. His willingness to share his expertise was evident and valuable. He will be missed by us all. Keith ---- Richard Kahn wrote: > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 15 18:45:46 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:45:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Wanted Message-ID: <20100415194546.H3YH2.1271412.root@ispmxfep13-z01> A VERY long shot I know, but would anyone have a set of ANSA resonators (with chrome tips) for a BJ8 you would want to sell? Thanks tom From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 20:02:12 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:02:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 1. Message-ID: <602669.88821.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Liters, Thought the CA folks may be interested in my recent experience of converting from current white CA plates to period CA black plates. The CA DMV law changed in 2009 - allowing 63 to 69 year of manufacture and orginally registered vehicles [YOM} that have subsequently been sold/converted/et al to blue or white plates to go back to CA period black plates - PROVIDING the black plate is NOT in use and NOT on the CA DMV computer system. There is an 800 number to call the DMV and confirm is a given plate number is available for use / ie NOT in use now on their computer. You MUST have a pair of plates [of course] AND an original sticker for the YOM of the car - not a repro sticker. 63 cars need no sticker as 63 is embossed in the plate. 64 care require a 64 sticker, and so on up to 69. The plates can be restored but must apprear original in color and finish. They inspect them. I liked this idea, so I set out to change my 65 Healey from a vanity white plate [65AHLY] which I will keep for now, to a period black plate. Here is what I did, and how it went .... 1. Talked to some folks on the net and got the skinney on the DMV vehicle code, and their experience to date. 2. Went to ebay and purchased a pair of decent condition CA yellow on black 6 character plates. You MUST have a pair, and they MUST be original. Must NOT be perfect - just clear and readable. 3. Went to ebay and purchased an original 65 sticker for my 65 registered Healey. Same guy as had the plates luckily. 4. Took the 2 plates with the sticker attached to the local CA DMV, together with my DMV registration, and check book. Did not take the car or the white plates. Read on in Part2, as this is long and may get truncated ......... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 20:20:57 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:20:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> Message-ID: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Listers, CA black Plates - Part 2>>>>> Arrived at DMV - usual lines. Asked for the YOM form from the clerk. No problem - she know what it was. One page - easy to fill in. Waited for my time slot. Went to the desk clerk. Said I had a 65 vehicle and wanted to change the plates from vanity white to YOM black. She took the YOM application form, my current registration, and asked for the black plates with the 65 sticker already attached to the top right corner. I reluctently gave them to her - there have been runors of folks NOT getting them back. She said 'I will be back'...... I watched as she went to a supervisors desk and talked. The supervisor looked at the plates on both sides, checked the 6 character number on the computer, signed my application form, spoke again to the clerk. She xerox copied the black plates. The number on the 65 sticker was irrelevant to mt case. This all took about 10 mins. Clerk came back and gave me the plates back. Relief .... Started to process the license number change. Figured out the cost and I wrote a check. Clerk gave me a temp reg sheet to drive with while the 2 months passes to process the change and deliver the 2010 and month stickers, and, the corner plates on which to mount them. The 1965 sticker does not get covered. We all smiled, and I collected my stuff from the counter, and quietly departed the DMV - bonefide CA black plates in hand, and temp registration in hand. Result - NO PROBLEMS with the DMV, only $48, get to keep my vanities if I wish, black plates are on the car already - SYS900. Happy camper..... Can recommend the process for those who prefer a correct period plate to a current vanity plate. Easy to go back if you wish. Questions?? Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 15 20:54:15 2010 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:54:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community References: <1556657091.7928231271353260604.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I would also like to express my condolences to David and the family. Norman was more than generous in sharing his encyclopedic knowledge of Healeys and helped me troubleshoot problems on many occasions, as well as providing rare used and NOS parts when the need arose. Bruce 1960 BN7 Brea, CA From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 21:05:56 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:05:56 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sad news. I had the pleasure to meet Norm several times every time I visited their shop in Stockton. He was kind enough to give me a walk through of his pretty 100, showing me the little mods he made to keep the side curtains from flapping in the breeze on the motorway! He was always willing to help. We are lucky to have David and Sheila to carry on his work. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 11:29 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of > his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 15 21:07:14 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 03:07:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?norm?= Message-ID: <20100416030714.18949.qmail@server278.com> met norm at the lake tahoe 50th anniversary and talked to him a few times after. he will be missed here on the list, for sure. hjim From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Apr 15 21:15:44 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:15:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> In-Reply-To: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Those of us who went before you paved the road. Congratulations. Took me 8 months. Rich Kahn > Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:20:57 -0700 > From: rnbmail at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> > > Listers, CA black Plates - Part 2>>>>> > > Arrived at DMV - usual lines. Asked for the YOM form from the clerk. No > problem - she know what it was. One page - easy to fill in. > > Waited for my time slot. Went to the desk clerk. Said I had a 65 vehicle and > wanted to change the plates from vanity white to YOM black. She took the YOM > application form, my current registration, and asked for the black plates with > the 65 sticker already attached to the top right corner. I reluctently gave > them to her - there have been runors of folks NOT getting them back. She said > 'I will be back'...... > > I watched as she went to a supervisors desk and talked. The supervisor looked > at the plates on both sides, checked the 6 character number on the computer, > signed my application form, spoke again to the clerk. She xerox copied the > black plates. The number on the 65 sticker was irrelevant to mt case. This > all took about 10 mins. > > Clerk came back and gave me the plates back. Relief .... > > Started to process the license number change. Figured out the cost and I > wrote a check. Clerk gave me a temp reg sheet to drive with while the 2 > months passes to process the change and deliver the 2010 and month stickers, > and, the corner plates on which to mount them. The 1965 sticker does not get > covered. > > We all smiled, and I collected my stuff from the counter, and quietly departed > the DMV - bonefide CA black plates in hand, and temp registration in hand. > > Result - NO PROBLEMS with the DMV, only $48, get to keep my vanities if I > wish, black plates are on the car already - SYS900. Happy camper..... > > Can recommend the process for those who prefer a correct period plate to a > current vanity plate. Easy to go back if you wish. > > Questions?? > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 15 21:31:56 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:31:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud at boot floor Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100415203037.02068ea8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Are people sealing the seam inside the boot between the steel and aluminum or leaving it unsealed to drain? TIA, John Spaur '62 BT7 From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Apr 15 21:43:38 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> In-Reply-To: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not YOM plates (and apparently not 1958 plates) my car has a pretty cool looking number on my black plates from the early 60s. http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/overriders.htm Wilko San Diego From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Thu Apr 15 21:54:45 2010 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:54:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <748F747127B64FB1BBB26DE66FBF6D25@XPS400> I have an California 1961 sticker for sale cheap if anyone on the list is interested, contact me of the list. $25.00. Ron Fine ronfineesq at earthlink.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 22:20:36 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:20:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail In-Reply-To: References: <93F7D88A00CC435EA1D83BD92001ABDD@ElComputero> Message-ID: <4BC7E594.10704@comcast.net> Just when you thought this thread was over ... This is the best deal on a riveter I've seen: http://cgi.ebay.com/Jet-2-5-8-3-200-BPM-Air-Riveting-Hammer-JSG-0204R-NEW_W0QQitemZ330423459172QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ceec5dd64 -- or -- *http://tinyurl.com/y4ghgru Anyone confirm the Healey shroud takes a 5/32" rivet? Correct length of rivet? bs * -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 23:14:41 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:14:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> In-Reply-To: References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: your plates are probably from 1969. the correct plates would be yellow 1956 - 1962 i have them on my xk150 ron rader On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 8:43 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > > Not YOM plates (and apparently not 1958 plates) my car has a pretty cool looking number on my black plates from the early 60s. > > http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/overriders.htm > > Wilko > San Diego > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 23:17:23 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> In-Reply-To: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: it was a good day. in the mail today i recvd all of the final paper work on my 1966 YOM CA black plates for my 1966 GT 350 H. they even sent the 'ears" so that i do not have to cover up the 1966 sticker. ron rader On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Robert Blair wrote: > Listers, CA black Plates - Part 2>>>>> > > Arrived at DMV - usual lines. Asked for the YOM form from the clerk. No > problem - she know what it was. One page - easy to fill in. From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 15 23:26:02 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:26:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock is responsible for.... Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100415221633.01fd3770@pop.att.yahoo.com> getting me involved in owning an Austin Healey again. I was standing in the parking lot of a motel in Marina California in the spring of 1997 when he pulled into the parking lot in a beautifully restored BN7. I remarked about how wonderful his Healey was and that I had one in college. We talked for a bit and he said his son was on the way in another Healey. About 2 months after that I bought the BT7 that I am restoring now. He was a wonderful person! My condolences to his family. John BTW, he autographed my Tech Talk too: "John Spaur Happy Healey Motoring from Norman Nock. 9 Dec 97" From krtaylor at exemail.com.au Fri Apr 16 00:24:58 2010 From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:24:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SC PARTS Message-ID: Any comments on SC Parts UK they appear to be owned by Limora Germany ? Fantastic new catalog but having difficulty with wrong parts & communication. Keith Taylor OZ. From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 01:29:29 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:29:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] SC PARTS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Keith - On the one hand, SC parts does some things very well and has some excellent parts at good prices. On the other hand they are a big supplier servicing many vehicles so some of the stuff they sell is questionable. Sometimes the quality is good, sometimes it's not. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 2:24 PM, Keith Taylor wrote: > Any comments on SC Parts UK they appear to be owned by Limora Germany ? > Fantastic new catalog but having difficulty with wrong parts & > communication. > > Keith Taylor > OZ. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Fri Apr 16 02:53:28 2010 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 16 Apr 2010 10:53:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?SC_PARTS?= Message-ID: Keith, I confirm, SC Parts is owned by Limora Germany. Eric bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Von Keith Taylor [krtaylor at exemail.com.au] An [healeys at autox.team.net] CC Datum 16.04.2010 09:20:47 Betreff [Healeys] SC PARTS bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Any comments on SC Parts UK they appear to be owned by Limora Germany ? Fantastic new catalog but having difficulty with wrong parts & communication. Keith Taylor OZ. From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Apr 16 03:58:04 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:58:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes Message-ID: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> G'day list I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance here in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage certificate puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached to the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, is right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. Anyone got any ideas? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 16 05:09:25 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:09:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud at boot floor In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100415203037.02068ea8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100415203037.02068ea8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <68B8E1ADF38D4C20BBBC06C73189784E@LIFEBOOK> We're sealing this joint from the inside. Inside the boot, and under the Armacord should NOT be a place where water can get to. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john spaur" Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:31 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud at boot floor > Are people sealing the seam inside the boot between the steel and aluminum > or leaving it unsealed to drain? > > TIA, > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From caddi5 at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 05:31:56 2010 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:31:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mr. Norman Nock In-Reply-To: <654027326.13667351271416216602.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2029824393.13668871271417516157.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I am fairly new to the "Healey addiction" but was blessed on many occasions to speak to Norman on the phone, asking him for advice, info., and questions he must have answered a thousand times for other novices. He would answer all and share his great knowledge without reserve ,what a wonderful and gracious gentleman. The Healey community has lost a great Ambassador to the hobby ,Norman will be greatly missed. Dave, Sheila, and family You have my heartfelt sympathy..................your Father was truly a "Colorful Character" Kind Regards Mitch Simmons From Editorgary at aol.com Fri Apr 16 05:34:09 2010 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:34:09 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock, the skier Message-ID: <8ef41.1a353be8.38f9a531@aol.com> Adding another story. Norman Nock was an expert skier from the time he moved to California. He explained to me that the reason that he moved from San Francisco, where he had worked for Kjell Qvale's British Motor Cars to the BMC dealership in Stockton (which eventually became his business, Briish Car Specialists) was so he and Shona, his wonderful wife, would be two hours closer to the ski slopes of the Sierras. He and Shona also purchased a teardrop trailer, and one of the pictures I published once in the magazine was of that teardrop trailer, hitched to their Healey, snowed-covered in th parking lot of Squaw Valley. I thoroughly enjoyed the times we skied together, with Norman leading the way in an easy, graceful and flowing style down very challenging slopes. Gary Anderson From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 16 05:39:50 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:39:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: <50F1CC4CE21D436B8CDA05A59771307A@LIFEBOOK> Hello Peter, I would tend to agree with your research about the features on this car. However, there have been widely varying discrepancies regarding the introduction of these rear reflectors and the placing of the "Austin of England" badges. This car may well be one that had been delayed for some reason during it's build time, and was finally off the end of the line (applying a much later unified chassis and engine base 6 digit number of 221569) than these body features would otherwise have had. As we have read, the introduction of the rear reflector pods was to stay within the U.K. laws that dictated rear reflectors were required from October of '54 on all new vehicles. As for the Austin of England boot lid badge, I have records of the odd one applied well into early December of '54, though the Austin Healey badge was installed in normal production from early September of '54. Can you please send me all the other information and owners information so we can enter it into the Hundred Registry? Thanks so much. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -------------------------------------------------- From: "Peter Linn" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 5:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes > G'day list > > I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance > here > in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage > certificate > puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached > to > the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, > is > right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear > shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of > England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features > should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. > Anyone got any ideas? > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Apr 16 06:17:36 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 22:17:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock In-Reply-To: <8D69A028E6174CE2A68D7379FF6FA4C4@saybrook1> References: <8D69A028E6174CE2A68D7379FF6FA4C4@saybrook1> Message-ID: <89F2CB222D3B422A8392B30D2164CF0F@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day This morning when I first read about Norman's passing I felt a real loss. I felt as if a member of my extended family had been taken. I never had the pleasure of meeting Norman. The odd exchange of emails and a joke or two. The loss is still there. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 16 07:31:20 2010 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:31:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: Peter It would help if we knew the batch and body number. Do you have this? If it were a direct export to Australia then we might be able to match it up with other Australian deliveries. This looks very much like a 100 with a body much earlier than November 1954. For example are the bonnet or boot lid steel or aluminium? An oval plate in the footwell does not sound right to me. I would have expected a rectangular ivorine plate. Regards > >I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance here >in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage certificate >puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached to >the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, is >right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear >shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of >England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features >should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. >Anyone got any ideas? > >Cheers > >Peter Linn >Brisbane Oz -- John Harper From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 07:44:25 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 06:44:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: Peter, You are essentially correct. The metal oval tag replaced the white plastic tag in late '54 through very early (Jan) '55 and was placed in the drivers foot well (in your case it appears to still be the left hand foot well.) It then moved to the firewall in late Jan. or early Feb. '55 just under the batch body tag where it remained through BN2 production. You may or may not have had the reflector pods installed. My BN1 222664, body 7197 built Jan. 11 '55 had all of this, with the Austin of England boot badge and cast brass reflector pods versus the later pot metal ones on later cars. Because your car was delivered down under, there may not have been a requirement for the reflector pods as was done on US cars delivered at that time. Cheers, Curt AH Concours Committee On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 2:58 AM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance > here > in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage > certificate > puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached > to > the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, is > right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear > shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of > England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features > should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. > Anyone got any ideas? > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 07:55:50 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 06:55:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <50F1CC4CE21D436B8CDA05A59771307A@LIFEBOOK> References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> <50F1CC4CE21D436B8CDA05A59771307A@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Rich and Peter, We have documented not only my car but also essentially a two owner BN1 here in California with a well known history built just weeks prior to my car (19K original miles.) It has the same batch number as mine and is about 100 body numbers earlier than my car. It has the brass reflector pods and the Austin of England boot badge. This second owner has known both the car and its original owner from new. Also both cars had orange not red reflector reflexes, which we have documented on other cars of that period. Also I'll check with another well known one owner BN1 here in CA to see if it had the reflector pods. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 4:39 AM, Rich C wrote: > Hello Peter, > > I would tend to agree with your research about the features on this car. > However, there have been widely varying discrepancies regarding the > introduction of these rear reflectors and the placing of the "Austin of > England" badges. This car may well be one that had been delayed for some > reason during it's build time, and was finally off the end of the line > (applying a much later unified chassis and engine base 6 digit number of > 221569) than these body features would otherwise have had. > As we have read, the introduction of the rear reflector pods was to stay > within the U.K. laws that dictated rear reflectors were required from > October of '54 on all new vehicles. > As for the Austin of England boot lid badge, I have records of the odd one > applied well into early December of '54, though the Austin Healey badge was > installed in normal production from early September of '54. > Can you please send me all the other information and owners information so > we can enter it into the Hundred Registry? > > Thanks so much. > > Rich Chrysler > Hundred Registrar From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 09:17:35 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:17:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights Message-ID: *http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free shipping I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. Cheers, * -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Apr 16 09:38:07 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:38:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> In-Reply-To: References: <8993.95261.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Sorry, but what are "ears"? I've not heard of this as part of a license before. Rich Kahn > Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:17:23 -0700 > From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com > To: rnbmail at yahoo.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> > > it was a good day. > in the mail today i recvd all of the final paper work on my 1966 YOM > CA black plates for my 1966 GT 350 H. > they even sent the 'ears" so that i do not have to cover up the 1966 sticker. > ron rader > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Robert Blair wrote: > > Listers, CA black Plates - Part 2>>>>> > > > > Arrived at DMV - usual lines. Asked for the YOM form from the clerk. No > > problem - she know what it was. One page - easy to fill in. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From ggilliam at usol.com Fri Apr 16 10:00:24 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:00:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Mounting_engine_to_stand=3F?= Message-ID: <668550d9d6a36939103556bab680531d@usol.com> Listeners, Which holes in the rear of the block are the best to use for mounting a BJ8 engine to an engine stand? Any additional tips or warnings? Thanks, Gordy From ggilliam at usol.com Fri Apr 16 10:07:15 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:07:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Message-ID: <27abbe2440a0970427aaa545a66a63e4@usol.com> Mr. Nock was a very positive influence on my initial decision to restore my Longbridge BN4. Without his assurances, tips, tech notes and support, I probably would not have attempted the project. His passing is indeed a great loss to our community. With great sympathy, Gordy From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 10:23:44 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:23:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: John, As I stated in my previous emails on this subject, the metal oval plate in the foot well is absolutely correct, and is well documented by the Concours Committee; myself, Roger Moment and Kent Lacy. This was done for a short period of time fro the late Fall of '54 through at least mid Jan. '55. John, if your interested for your records, I can send you a photo of the plate from a one owner car from new in late '54 here in southern California. I personally know this car and its 90+ year old owner. Also Kent lacy ownes a 5K original mile car that is unrestored with the oval plate in the left foot well. Also, it also well documented that the Austin of England boot badge was used on 100s with batch number 5179 as late as early/mid Jan. '55. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:31 AM, John Harper wrote: > Peter > > It would help if we knew the batch and body number. Do you have this? If it > were a direct export to Australia then we might be able to match it up with > other Australian deliveries. > > This looks very much like a 100 with a body much earlier than November > 1954. For example are the bonnet or boot lid steel or aluminium? > > An oval plate in the footwell does not sound right to me. I would have > expected a rectangular ivorine plate. > > Regards > > >> I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance >> here >> in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage >> certificate >> puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached >> to >> the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, >> is >> right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear >> shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of >> England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features >> should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. >> Anyone got any ideas? >> >> Cheers >> >> Peter Linn >> Brisbane Oz From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 10:28:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:28:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1846981995.8295761271435334520.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> One minor nit: I couldn't find the spec, but unless these aren't polarity sensitive--most LED lights are--they aren't '100% compatible' with a standard incandescent 1157 (they won't work on a positive-ground car). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA *http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free shipping I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. Cheers, * -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 16 10:30:09 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:30:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: Hello all, The oval metal I.d. plate was fitted to Hundreds in the interior left side kick panel, just beneath the wiper motor from the introduction of the unified numbers, (and a lot of other changes that took place) about the second week of September 1954. Besides lots of other evidence recorded in the Hundred Registry, I personally did a full restoration on BN1L219630, Batch 4965, Body 5407, built 21 Sept. '54 and it's pristine original oval alloy plate was intact with the ends of the two screws entering into the side wall metal beneath. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -------------------------------------------------- From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 9:44 AM To: "Peter Linn" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 changes > Peter, > > You are essentially correct. The metal oval tag replaced the white > plastic > tag in late '54 through very early (Jan) '55 and was placed in the drivers > foot well (in your case it appears to still be the left hand foot well.) > It > then moved to the firewall in late Jan. or early Feb. '55 just under the > batch body tag where it remained through BN2 production. > > You may or may not have had the reflector pods installed. My BN1 222664, > body 7197 built Jan. 11 '55 had all of this, with the Austin of England > boot > badge and cast brass reflector pods versus the later pot metal ones on > later > cars. Because your car was delivered down under, there may not have been > a > requirement for the reflector pods as was done on US cars delivered at > that > time. > > Cheers, > > Curt > AH Concours Committee > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 2:58 AM, Peter Linn > wrote: > >> G'day list >> >> I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance >> here >> in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage >> certificate >> puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate >> attached >> to >> the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, >> is >> right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear >> shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of >> England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features >> should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. >> Anyone got any ideas? >> >> Cheers >> >> Peter Linn >> Brisbane Oz > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 10:42:59 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:42:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mounting engine to stand? In-Reply-To: <668550d9d6a36939103556bab680531d@usol.com> Message-ID: <1200296899.8303121271436179774.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Can't offer specifics, as I haven't put a BJ8 lump on a stand lately, but I'd sure as h*ll use grade 8 bolts. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Listeners, Which holes in the rear of the block are the best to use for mounting a BJ8 engine to an engine stand? Any additional tips or warnings? Thanks, Gordy _______________________________________________ From tld6008 at mchsi.com Fri Apr 16 11:00:35 2010 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:00:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mounting engine to stand? In-Reply-To: <668550d9d6a36939103556bab680531d@usol.com> Message-ID: <1348321816.2644911271437235314.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14> I have always bolted mine to the side mount for one of the engine mounts. There wouldn't be nearly as much weight cantilevered that way. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: ggilliam at usol.com To: "Healeys" Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 11:00:24 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [Healeys] Mounting engine to stand? Listeners, Which holes in the rear of the block are the best to use for mounting a BJ8 engine to an engine stand? Any additional tips or warnings? Thanks, Gordy _______________________________________________ From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 11:22:58 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:22:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud at boot floor In-Reply-To: <68B8E1ADF38D4C20BBBC06C73189784E@LIFEBOOK> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20100415203037.02068ea8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <68B8E1ADF38D4C20BBBC06C73189784E@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: I agree, Rich, but when you buy a brand new aluminum gas tank from Limora, like I did, and the tank turns out to be leaking, like I encountered, in that case you (or better: me) was grateful that I had NOT sealed the seam......... Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/16 Rich C > We're sealing this joint from the inside. Inside the boot, and under the > Armacord should NOT be a place where water can get to. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "john spaur" > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:31 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud at boot floor > > Are people sealing the seam inside the boot between the steel and aluminum >> or leaving it unsealed to drain? >> >> TIA, >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 11:27:45 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:27:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: <1846981995.8295761271435334520.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1846981995.8295761271435334520.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: correct. My car is neg ground. I forget about the purists out there..... I On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > One minor nit: I couldn't find the spec, but unless these aren't polarity > sensitive--most LED lights are--they aren't '100% compatible' with a > standard incandescent 1157 (they won't work on a positive-ground car). > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > *http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf > > Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free > shipping > I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. > Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I > would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. > Cheers, > > * > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From rcobb at earthlink.net Fri Apr 16 11:37:43 2010 From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:37:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] CA black plates and registration decals Message-ID: <4BC8A067.7070901@earthlink.net> The ZYZ xxx black CA plate was issued mid-1969. I purchased a new car in CA in April, 1969, and received ZFY xxx. They were just about to run out of combinations at this point and as I recall the next ones issued were with three numbers, then three letters. That new grouping lasted about a decade, and then it became a number, three letters and three numbers. Regarding YOM, I can understand how old black plates become available to purchase, but how can there be old, unused annual self-adhesive registration stickers in any useful quantity, since most would have been used at the time of issue? Bob ----------- Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:43:38 -0700 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part 2 >> To: Healey List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes Not YOM plates (and apparently not 1958 plates) my car has a pretty cool looking number on my black plates from the early 60s. http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/overriders.htm Wilko San Diego From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 12:52:37 2010 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:52:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CA black plates and registration decals In-Reply-To: <4BC8A067.7070901@earthlink.net> References: <4BC8A067.7070901@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob, I have them new from about '68 to '78. The owner registered the car every year, but since the Healey was not running and off the road he never put the stickes on, so they all came with the car when I purchased it from the DPO. Not that uncommon. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 10:37 AM, R. Cobb wrote: > The ZYZ xxx black CA plate was issued mid-1969. I purchased a new car in > CA in April, 1969, and received ZFY xxx. They were just about to run out of > combinations at this point and as I recall the next ones issued were with > three numbers, then three letters. That new grouping lasted about a decade, > and then it became a number, three letters and three numbers. > > Regarding YOM, I can understand how old black plates become available to > purchase, but how can there be old, unused annual self-adhesive registration > stickers in any useful quantity, since most would have been used at the time > of issue? > > Bob > > ----------- > > Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:43:38 -0700 > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / DMV - Part > 2 >> > To: Healey List > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes > > Not YOM plates (and apparently not 1958 plates) my car has a pretty cool > looking number on my black plates from the early 60s. > > http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/overriders.htm > > Wilko > San Diego > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 13:13:56 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:13:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2011643690.8367171271445236035.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I don't consider myself a purist. My BJ8 has a Pertronix ignition, an electronic SU fuel pump, a spin-on oil filter, K&N air filters and a 3.54 diff. I just never saw the need to convert to negative ground. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA correct. My car is neg ground. I forget about the purists out there..... I On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: One minor nit: I couldn't find the spec, but unless these aren't polarity sensitive--most LED lights are--they aren't '100% compatible' with a standard incandescent 1157 (they won't work on a positive-ground car). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA * http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free shipping I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. Cheers, * -- I Erbs Portland, OR From bluehealey at googlemail.com Fri Apr 16 13:39:26 2010 From: bluehealey at googlemail.com (Alan Bromfield) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 20:39:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 - Centre Armrest Message-ID: Team. I am at the stage of trimming my BN4 project but running into some difficulties with the shape of the wrap-over arm rest that was fitted to these cars. It is the unique ( and a bit quirky) features of the early BN4 that I find so fascinating so I am trying to get them right. My supplier (who is also keen to get this right) has always assumed that the centre armrest in these Longbridge cars was the same item as fitted to the AH100's. When I received the armrest however it doesn't look like the shape shown in the Anderson & Moment guide on page 117. The handbrake cut-out is is halfway along the side apron - I believe it should be further forward, and the front piped edging sits vertical on the transmission tunnel - the picture appears to show 'ears' sloping forward. Could anyone help with a photo of how these armrests should be correctly shaped? Do the side aprons reach down to the floor carpet? I understand they are held with four Tenax fasteners. If so it may be relatively simple to remove the armrest and photograph it spread flat to get a true plan view that could be copied. All information and pictures received I will write up and provide to John Sims for the benefit of those that follow this path in the future. Many thanks............. ___________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 14:40:18 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:40:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Suburban 3rd brake light on ebay Message-ID: item no 130334549213 for 52.95. for you who have thought about this light. NFI Bob Johnson BJ8 From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Fri Apr 16 15:26:08 2010 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 07:26:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: <000001caddab$6e478f10$4ad6ad30$@net.au> Peter My BN1 Sept 54 has Austin of England script on the boot. I have fitted the reflector pods but do not believe this to be correct as they came in later. I believe it was a R/H drive car delivered in Australia but I have never worried about authenticating this as I know it has been here at least 35 years I have seen a well known early BN1 here in Australia and it had a plastic plate attached to the R/H kick panel in the footwell.(aluminium bonnet & boot lids). My chassis was too butchered to have any i.d.plates attached Cheers John -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Linn Sent: Friday, 16 April 2010 7:58 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes G'day list I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance here in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage certificate puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached to the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, is right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. Anyone got any ideas? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2813 - Release Date: 04/16/10 04:31:00 From rnbmail at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 16:49:54 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:49:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CA black plates and registration decals In-Reply-To: <4BC8A067.7070901@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <72320.54891.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Good question on the stickers. Folks out there remove them sticker by sticker/year by year from old plates - and then use new adhesive. Probably using heat and carefull hands....I have not tried it as yet but intend to do so. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Fri, 4/16/10, R. Cobb wrote: > From: R. Cobb > Subject: [Healeys] CA black plates and registration decals > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 10:37 AM > The ZYZ xxx black CA plate was issued > mid-1969. I purchased a new car in CA in April, 1969, > and received ZFY xxx. They were just about to run out > of combinations at this point and as I recall the next ones > issued were with three numbers, then three letters. > That new grouping lasted about a decade, and then it became > a number, three letters and three numbers. > > Regarding YOM, I can understand how old black plates become > available to purchase, but how can there be old, unused > annual self-adhesive registration stickers in any useful > quantity, since most would have been used at the time of > issue? > > Bob > > ----------- > > Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:43:38 -0700 > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate expeirnce - CA Law / > DMV - Part > 2 >> > To: Healey List > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; > delsp=yes > > Not YOM plates (and apparently not 1958 plates) my car has > a pretty cool looking number on my black plates from > the early 60s. > > http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/overriders.htm > > Wilko > San Diego > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From jwj-scj at cox.net Fri Apr 16 17:07:48 2010 From: jwj-scj at cox.net (jwj-scj at cox.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:07:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] mounting engine to stand. Message-ID: <20100416190748.F2ZTE.24394.imail@eastrmwml38> I highly recommend mounting the Healey engine on an engine stand by using the four bolt holes on the left side (driver's side) of the engine. I found the bolt hole spacing on the mounting plate of an "over the counter" engine stand must be modified to fit the spacing on the Healey engine. I have also found grade five bolts work fine, or one may use the original bolts. Rotating the engine may require a "cheater bar" on the engine stand and a second set of hands (usually) is required to insert the locking pin. The thing I like the most about this set-up is I can install the rear engine plate, oil pan seals and the oil pan before removing the engine from the engine stand. From bn1 at pacbell.net Fri Apr 16 17:18:17 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:18:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: <2011643690.8367171271445236035.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2011643690.8367171271445236035.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BC8F039.9030507@pacbell.net> Bob, Ira & List, LED's MUST have negative ground or you will immediately let the smoke out! I sacrificed a bulb to prove it. Although, just before the smoke, you will get a very nice, bright flash. IMHO those bulbs WILL NOT fit the Lucas sockets. I have not found ANY LED's on the Internet that are a direct replacement for 1157's in our sockets. I buy the closest I can find and then do two additional machinings. (They are not the ones you have found.) I guarantee mine to fit and work in a negative ground Healey or return them for a full refund. Before you ask, mine are more expensive at $25 a piece. But that isn't very expensive when you figure the additional safety and that you'll never have to replace them again and mess with those terrible lens and ring installations. I also have the white or amber for the front running lights and the small instrument panel lights so you can actually see your instruments at night. I will have a supply and demonstration at California Healey Week in Temecula, CA and Rendezvous in Eugene, OR. Or you can contact me off list. Red Car Enterprises Bill Barnett '53 Red Car On 4/16/2010 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I don't consider myself a purist. My BJ8 has a Pertronix ignition, an electronic SU fuel pump, a spin-on oil filter, K&N air filters and a 3.54 diff. I just never saw the need to convert to negative ground. > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > correct. My car is neg ground. I forget about the purists out there..... > I > > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell< bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > One minor nit: I couldn't find the spec, but unless these aren't polarity sensitive--most LED lights are--they aren't '100% compatible' with a standard incandescent 1157 (they won't work on a positive-ground car). > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > * http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf > > > > Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free > shipping > I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. > Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I > would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. > Cheers, > > * From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 18:30:04 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:30:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Erbs - Not all LED lights are the same. Unfortunately the LED lights on your Ebay link aren't worth the $10, or $.05 for that matter. The problem is the light output will be much less than a standard 1157, so you are better off keeping the lights you have than buying these. If you want to increase the level of light over a standard 1157 or halogen bulb, you need to get SMT or CREE LEDs. The best supplier I have found is this one: http://superlumination.com/1156_1157.htm Lots of choices, they use the same LED lights used on many modern cars. Avoid the Ebay LEDS! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 11:17 PM, I Erbs wrote: > *http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf > Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free > shipping > I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. > Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I > would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. > Cheers, > > * > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 18:36:57 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:36:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] mounting engine to stand. In-Reply-To: <20100416190748.F2ZTE.24394.imail@eastrmwml38> References: <20100416190748.F2ZTE.24394.imail@eastrmwml38> Message-ID: That's a really good idea, and some engine stands with a tripod wheel base, the 6 cyl sticking out can be a little unstable. If you do it this way, it should be much more stable. Thanks for sharing that.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 7:07 AM, wrote: > I highly recommend mounting the Healey engine on an engine stand by using > the four bolt holes on the left side (driver's side) of the engine. I found > the bolt hole spacing on the mounting plate of an "over the counter" engine > stand must be modified to fit the spacing on the Healey engine. I have also > found grade five bolts work fine, or one may use the original bolts. > Rotating the engine may require a "cheater bar" on the engine stand and a > second set of hands (usually) is required to insert the locking pin. The > thing I like the most about this set-up is I can install the rear engine > plate, oil pan seals and the oil pan before removing the engine from the > engine stand. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From javrugtman at htcnet.org Fri Apr 16 18:56:30 2010 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 20:56:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LED Lights In-Reply-To: <4BC8F039.9030507@pacbell.net> References: <2011643690.8367171271445236035.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4BC8F039.9030507@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <4BC9073E.8080901@htcnet.org> I run LEDs in my 64 negative ground. I used ones from "LEDtronics"; fit and work fine. Only issue is the flasher. Have to use a digital flasher or add a load resistor to allow the original flasher (thermal design) to work. Dash lights can be done as well, but requires a little more rework. John 66 & 64 BJ8s On 4/16/2010 7:18 PM, Mr. Bill wrote: > Bob, Ira& List, > > LED's MUST have negative ground or you will immediately let the smoke > out! I sacrificed a bulb to prove it. Although, just before the smoke, > you will get a very nice, bright flash. > > IMHO those bulbs WILL NOT fit the Lucas sockets. I have not found ANY > LED's on the Internet that are a direct replacement for 1157's in our > sockets. I buy the closest I can find and then do two additional > machinings. (They are not the ones you have found.) I guarantee mine > to fit and work in a negative ground Healey or return them for a full > refund. > > Before you ask, mine are more expensive at $25 a piece. But that isn't > very expensive when you figure the additional safety and that you'll > never have to replace them again and mess with those terrible lens and > ring installations. I also have the white or amber for the front > running lights and the small instrument panel lights so you can actually > see your instruments at night. > > I will have a supply and demonstration at California Healey Week in > Temecula, CA and Rendezvous in Eugene, OR. Or you can contact me off list. > > Red Car Enterprises > Bill Barnett > '53 Red Car > > On 4/16/2010 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> I don't consider myself a purist. My BJ8 has a Pertronix ignition, an electronic SU fuel pump, a spin-on oil filter, K&N air filters and a 3.54 diff. I just never saw the need to convert to negative ground. >> >> bs >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> >> >> correct. My car is neg ground. I forget about the purists out there..... >> I >> >> >> On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell< bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> One minor nit: I couldn't find the spec, but unless these aren't polarity sensitive--most LED lights are--they aren't '100% compatible' with a standard incandescent 1157 (they won't work on a positive-ground car). >> >> bs >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> >> >> * http://tinyurl.com/y59s9cf >> >> >> >> Found, what looks like a good deal on 1157 LED tail lights. $9.49 and free >> shipping >> I checked the archives, but could not find the type # for the dash bulbs. >> Lots of chatter on using Holegen lights, but no type 3 mentioned. Thought I >> would look into LEDs as they run fairly cool. >> Cheers, From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 19:10:06 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:10:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s Message-ID: <410019.55481.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 01:47:52 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:47:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate ears Message-ID: little tabs that you add to the bottom of the plate so that the original plate stays as -is. these tabs have your current year and month of expiration. ron rader On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > > Sorry, but what are "ears"? I've not heard of this as part of a license before. > Rich Kahn From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 01:52:07 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:52:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CA registration decals Message-ID: you can find them on line "new" dont ask dont tell ron On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 10:37 AM, R. Cobb wrote: > but how can there be old, unused annual self-adhesive registration > stickers in any useful quantity, since most would have been used at the time > of issue? > > Bob From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 03:39:24 2010 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:39:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Longbridge BN4 - Centre Armrest In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Derek Job Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 11:38 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 - Centre Armrest To: Alan Bromfield Allan There were different types of Longbridge arm rest as it evolved during the life of production. If you go to the following page on my website you will find a full explanation and photos of the different types and where they should be positioned. The link is, http://www.healeysix.net/LongbridgeInt.htm BTW the Longbridge arm rests were never the same as the 100s as they were shorter in length. regards Derek On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:39 PM, Alan Bromfield wrote: > Team. > I am at the stage of trimming my BN4 project but running into some > difficulties with the shape of the wrap-over arm rest that was fitted > to these cars. It is the unique ( and a bit quirky) features of the > early BN4 that I find so fascinating so I am trying to get them right. > > My supplier (who is also keen to get this right) has always assumed > that the centre armrest in these Longbridge cars was the same item as > fitted to the AH100's. When I received the armrest however it doesn't > look like the shape shown in the Anderson & Moment guide on page 117. > The handbrake cut-out is is halfway along the side apron - I believe > it should be further forward, and the front piped edging sits vertical > on the transmission tunnel - the picture appears to show 'ears' > sloping forward. > > Could anyone help with a photo of how these armrests should be > correctly shaped? Do the side aprons reach down to the floor carpet? > I understand they are held with four Tenax fasteners. If so it may be > relatively simple to remove the armrest and photograph it spread flat > to get a true plan view that could be copied. > > All information and pictures received I will write up and provide to > John Sims for the benefit of those that follow this path in the > future. > > Many thanks............. > ___________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Apr 17 05:17:33 2010 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:17:33 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BN1 changes Message-ID: <58850097D8CF43F0908F4B9FB3CC8E66@PeterPC> Resent - original too long! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Linn" To: "Rich C" ; Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 changes > Many thanks to all of you who replied. It seems the simple answer is, > there's nothing definite abou the various change dates! > > Rick and Roger - the batch no. is 5090, the body no. 6290. The car has an > after market ignition switch of the type you turn the key to start, so I > can't give you that number. The car was originally Healey blue (now blue > and white) with blue interior. As I recall, the piping was the same colour > as the trim, but I don't think it's original. > > Patrick - I passed on the info about previous owner John Veale to Darryll > Searle the current owner. He tells me that the original owner (as shown on > the Heritage certificate) was J (Jeffrey?) Penfold Hyland of Penfold > wines, who presumably ordered it direct from the factory. In another case > of "6 degrees of separation", the brother of another Queensland AHOC > member once owned a DB2 Aston, also owned by Penfold Hyland and apparently > ordered at the same time! > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > PS This is the first "standard" Healey of any type I've driven. It has a > BN1 box with the A90 first gear unblocked, and it seems to me that all the > stories of this being unuseable are a Furphy (urban legend). I found it > perfectly useable and I'm now more determined to do the same to the Ward > Special (3.54 diff) to save its clutch! From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Apr 17 09:31:37 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:31:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate ears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ah, thanks. I guess they wont work for those of us who have our plate mounted behind the bumper. The plate drags on driveways anyway. ( I had to put a spring door hinge on mine). Rich Kahn > Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:47:52 -0700 > From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate ears > > little tabs that you add to the bottom of the plate so that the > original plate stays as -is. > these tabs have your current year and month of expiration. > ron rader > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > > > > Sorry, but what are "ears"? I've not heard of this as part of a license before. > > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From bn1 at pacbell.net Sat Apr 17 12:53:58 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:53:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate ears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCA03C6.1040802@pacbell.net> I put my tabs on the top of my '53 plate where they are almost completely hidden by the bumper. That is where their directions indicate. If you look down from the top of the bumper you can see the month and correct year. Do I expect to get stopped because of that, you bet. So far I have not although I have been followed and then had the cop slowly go around me to make sure I had the front one, which I do. If I do get pulled over, I'll just plead innocent saying that there is no other place to put them. A "fix it" ticket doesn't really concern me. Live live dangerously, it's more fun that way! :-) Bill Barnett '53 Red Car On 4/17/2010 08:31 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > Ah, thanks. I guess they wont work for those of us who have our plate mounted > behind the bumper. The plate drags on driveways anyway. ( I had to put a > spring door hinge on mine). > Rich Kahn > > >> Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:47:52 -0700 >> From:f.ronald.rader at gmail.com >> To:healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black Lic Plate ears >> >> little tabs that you add to the bottom of the plate so that the >> original plate stays as -is. >> these tabs have your current year and month of expiration. >> ron rader >> >> On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Richard Kahn >> > wrote: > >>> Sorry, but what are "ears"? I've not heard of this as part of a license >>> > before. > >>> Rich Kahn >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 > 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net From ynotink at msn.com Sat Apr 17 16:20:59 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 22:20:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BN1 changes In-Reply-To: <58850097D8CF43F0908F4B9FB3CC8E66@PeterPC> References: <58850097D8CF43F0908F4B9FB3CC8E66@PeterPC> Message-ID: Agreed, the "granny" gear is a lot more useful with the 3.54:1 gears. I sometimes use it for starting on a hill. Maybe for parades...? Bill Lawrence > From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:17:33 +1000 > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BN1 changes > > Resent - original too long! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Linn" > To: "Rich C" ; > Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 1:05 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 changes > > > > Many thanks to all of you who replied. It seems the simple answer is, > > there's nothing definite abou the various change dates! > > > > Rick and Roger - the batch no. is 5090, the body no. 6290. The car has an > > after market ignition switch of the type you turn the key to start, so I > > can't give you that number. The car was originally Healey blue (now blue > > and white) with blue interior. As I recall, the piping was the same colour > > as the trim, but I don't think it's original. > > > > Patrick - I passed on the info about previous owner John Veale to Darryll > > Searle the current owner. He tells me that the original owner (as shown on > > the Heritage certificate) was J (Jeffrey?) Penfold Hyland of Penfold > > wines, who presumably ordered it direct from the factory. In another case > > of "6 degrees of separation", the brother of another Queensland AHOC > > member once owned a DB2 Aston, also owned by Penfold Hyland and apparently > > ordered at the same time! > > > > Cheers > > > > Peter Linn > > Brisbane Oz > > > > PS This is the first "standard" Healey of any type I've driven. It has a > > BN1 box with the A90 first gear unblocked, and it seems to me that all the > > stories of this being unuseable are a Furphy (urban legend). I found it > > perfectly useable and I'm now more determined to do the same to the Ward > > Special (3.54 diff) to save its clutch! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From healeymnster at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 17:12:24 2010 From: healeymnster at gmail.com (Ed Townley) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:12:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s Message-ID: count me as another Yea, Rick, in fact, I was so concerned about teeny boppers tailgating while texting that I added a flasher to the third light mounted with magnets on my BJ8 boot lid. all who follow now comment on how bright and attention-getting the flashing third light is. have added the flashing feature to our 74 Mini, as well as the 96 Miata. flashing feature was found here for less than $25. http://www.kahtec.com/products.htm NFI, just a satisfied customer. Ed Townley, Southern NM, USA Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:10:06 -0700 (PDT) From: HealeyRick Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s To: healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <410019.55481.qm at web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. From healeyron at yahoo.com Sat Apr 17 19:25:46 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:25:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <300884.86990.qm@web32904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Ed, Does the Flashing Light Gadget require negative ground? Ron ________________________________ From: Ed Townley To: healeyrick at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, April 17, 2010 7:12:24 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s count me as another Yea, Rick, in fact, I was so concerned about teeny boppers tailgating while texting that I added a flasher to the third light mounted with magnets on my BJ8 boot lid. all who follow now comment on how bright and attention-getting the flashing third light is. have added the flashing feature to our 74 Mini, as well as the 96 Miata. flashing feature was found here for less than $25. http://www.kahtec.com/products.htm NFI, just a satisfied customer. Ed Townley, Southern NM, USA Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:10:06 -0700 (PDT) From: HealeyRick Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s To: healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <410019.55481.qm at web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 18 07:20:12 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 09:20:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Armrests In-Reply-To: References: <002301cade61$875ec750$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <01f101cadef9$e2f32910$a8d97b30$@net> Posted on the Technical page of my site - Carpeting section. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 8:11 AM To: Peter Svilans Cc: bluehealey at googlemail.com; ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: Armrests Great stuff as usual Peter. I'll update my website with this more comprehensive information cheers Derek On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 9:09 PM, Peter Svilans wrote: The Healey's tunnel-mounted saddle-type armrest, was a marvellous piece of the upholsterer's art. My own notes on the assembly sequence of its dozen-odd parts make up a whole paragraph, while the later sew-on pad is just flutes and an edge strip. From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 08:45:24 2010 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:45:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Indy 500 - No Healey Content Message-ID: I thought I might let the list know that I have 2 tickets to the May 30, Indianapolis 500 available. I have available, 2 tickets on the main straight, just above the start finish line. These are superb seats! If you go to this link, https://imstix.brickyard.com/Tickets/TrackView.aspx From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 08:52:39 2010 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:52:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Indy 500 - No Healey content Message-ID: List, I thought I would let the list know that I have 2 superb seats for the May 30, Indianapolis 500 race available. If you go to https://imstix.brickyard.com/Tickets/TrackView.aspx, and select "Paddock Grandstand" and then select the number "21", you will get a view of the track from the seats. If anyone is interested, contact me off list. Fred 63 BJ7 From jobu53 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 18 16:05:44 2010 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan Smither) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 15:05:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer Message-ID: I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I took it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think it is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a year ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart yet to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much appreciated. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 Fountain Hills, AZ People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Apr 18 17:12:27 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 16:12:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <85F6CCC2CF2E4EC9B6BDA34A2CBE108E@LeonardPCPC> Dan: Could well be the angle drive. My speedometer quit just as I was leaving Lake Tahoe in 2004. 140 miles later plus driving another 117 miles, I pulled the tunnel out and found that the metal plug on the end of the angle drive had come out. All the parts were laying on the frame below the drive. Cleaned and reassembled, it is still working. Of course, there are other possibilities that you will be made aware of by others on The List. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Smither" To: Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 3:05 PM Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer >I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and > European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I > took > it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think > it > is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a > year > ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart > yet > to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much > appreciated. > > Dan Serrao > 1963 BJ7 > Fountain Hills, AZ From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 17:14:02 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:14:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dan - The little cable in the angle drive can snap, esp. if there is no lubrication down there. Take it out, if you are lucky you can just cut a section off your old cable to suit. Tunnel has to come off... :( Alan On 4/19/10, Dan Smither wrote: > I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and > European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I took > it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think it > is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a > year > ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart > yet > to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much > appreciated. > > Dan Serrao > 1963 BJ7 > Fountain Hills, AZ > > People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the > newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 > 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From gstigen at msn.com Sun Apr 18 17:16:40 2010 From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 16:16:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Once on my '63 BJ7, the plug on the angle drive fell out& the gear popped out,put it back in found plug(about an inch or so around) used sealer& it worked fine.cheers Geno > From: jobu53 at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 15:05:44 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer > > I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and > European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I took > it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think it > is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a year > ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart yet > to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much > appreciated. > > Dan Serrao > 1963 BJ7 > Fountain Hills, AZ > > People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the > newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 > 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Apr 18 17:30:42 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:30:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello all, This may be a related scenario. We have been experiencing a number of speedos that have been doing erratic behavior, a lot of bouncing and sticking of the needle, soon followed by complete failure. Specifically, all four have all been instances where the speedometers have been completely rebuilt and reconditioned by Nissonger Instruments within a couple of thousand mile earlier (if even that much) and new after market speedo cables from the usual suppliers have been installed. Upon returning these defective speedos to Nisonger, they've stripped them down again and had to thoroughly clean oil out of the mechanisms. When these were returned to us they were accompanied ny a preprinted standardized nots stating the excessive oil had been found in the instrument and further warranty work would not be done until the source of the oil is eliminated. Further converstaion with them stated that it's quite a common problem with today's replacement speedo cables to have the inner core "woven the wrong way" so that it acts as an efficient auger screw to move oil from the gearbox fitting, up the inner cable tube and into the instrument. They claim that original Smiths cables' inner core is woven the opposite way so that any auger type effect screws any oil back toward the gearbox and away from the speedo head. Anybody else hear of this? Rich Chrysler -- From: "Dan Smither" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:05 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer > I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and > European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I > took > it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think > it > is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a > year > ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart > yet > to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much > appreciated. > > Dan Serrao > 1963 BJ7 > Fountain Hills, AZ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 18 17:48:02 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:48:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net> Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Smither Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:06 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British and European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I took it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think it is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a year ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart yet to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much appreciated. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 Fountain Hills, AZ People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID28 3 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From pennell at cox.net Sun Apr 18 18:50:23 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:50:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net> Message-ID: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> All, On a similar note the speedo on my BN7 has been reading 15-20% high since the resto in 2001. Tranny and overdrive rebuilt by a reputable AH guy on the east coast when I bought the car. Sent the speedo to Nisonger in around 04 and they said it tested within limits of a Healey. Could a wrong gear in the angle drive be the culprit? Is there such a thing? Any other thoughts? Keith ---- John Sims wrote: > Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You > have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 18:58:51 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:58:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux Message-ID: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> I think I've finally isolated the original cause of a series of blown exhaust flange gaskets: two of the three studs on one manifold were weak and would not hold tension. I finally ended up stripping them while trying to apply a reasonable torqe (20 ft-lbs). Anyway, I managed to extract the studs and tried installing 3 new ones I happened to have and all of them stripped! I didn't like the looks of them before I put them in--they looked to be of a very light and soft steel (and they were a good 1/8" longer--makes getting the downpipes off and on even more difficult). They were from Moss. Anyone have a good source for solid, heavy steel studs? I see Moss has a stainless kit--anyone tried those? I don't believe that stainless is necessarily stronger--in fact, it may be more brittle--but maybe they're better made. 'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware store--are coarse thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on both ends. Thanks for listening. Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 18 19:42:59 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:42:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net> <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> Folks, Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub tightened against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? Or do the go in front or back of the plate? The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering wheel, does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage to get the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the slightly conical end work? Thanks. Ron Ray From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 19:51:15 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net> <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: what size tires are you running? On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 5:50 PM, wrote: > All, > > On a similar note the speedo on my BN7 has been reading 15-20% high since > the resto in 2001. Tranny and overdrive rebuilt by a reputable AH guy on > the east coast when I bought the car. Sent the speedo to Nisonger in around > 04 and they said it tested within limits of a Healey. > > Could a wrong gear in the angle drive be the culprit? Is there such a > thing? Any other thoughts? > > Keith > > ---- John Sims wrote: > > Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You > > have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Apr 18 20:09:17 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 19:09:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8A2DEFC8-BB4A-46ED-B173-FEC13B01E7D4@cox.net> You stripped exhaust studs using brass nuts?! On Apr 18, 2010, at 5:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I think I've finally isolated the original cause of a series of > blown exhaust flange gaskets: two of the three studs on one manifold > were weak and would not hold tension. I finally ended up stripping > them while trying to apply a reasonable torqe (20 ft-lbs). Anyway, > I managed to extract the studs and tried installing 3 new ones I > happened to have and all of them stripped! From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Apr 18 20:55:11 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 22:55:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net><20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> Message-ID: <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> The set screws need to be pointed, and they need to set immediately in front of the inner beveled flange to lock it in place so it turns with the wheel, and so it can't come out. The conical end allen set screw will not work here. It must be pointed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Ray" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:42 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator > Folks, > > Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub tightened > against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? > Or do the go in front or back of the plate? > > The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering wheel, > does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes > > I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage to get > the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the > slightly conical end work? > > > Thanks. > Ron Ray > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 21:07:51 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:07:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> References: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: <4BCBC907.5090709@comcast.net> Strange. Unless they used a different gearset in the O/D the rebuilds shouldn't have caused this. I believe the angle drive uses a short wound cable similar to a short piece of speedo cable. If it's high across the board you can calibrate it yourself. Remove the speedo from the panel, 'unscrew' the bezel and gently prise the needle off (pull straight out). You'll probably have to set it under the peg, which is spring loaded so you can rotate the needle past it so it can rest on the peg when stopped. I use this site to calibrate: http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html bs pennell at cox.net wrote: > All, > > On a similar note the speedo on my BN7 has been reading 15-20% high since the resto in 2001. Tranny and overdrive rebuilt by a reputable AH guy on the east coast when I bought the car. Sent the speedo to Nisonger in around 04 and they said it tested within limits of a Healey. > > Could a wrong gear in the angle drive be the culprit? Is there such a thing? Any other thoughts? > > Keith > > ---- John Sims wrote: > >> Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You >> have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 21:12:31 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:12:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <8A2DEFC8-BB4A-46ED-B173-FEC13B01E7D4@cox.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> <8A2DEFC8-BB4A-46ED-B173-FEC13B01E7D4@cox.net> Message-ID: <4BCBCA1E.3030106@comcast.net> Nope; I went to steel nuts trying to solve the blown gasket problem. They worked fine on 4 of the 6 studs (and worked fine on all 6 prior to this round of gasket replacement). bs Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > You stripped exhaust studs using brass nuts?! > > On Apr 18, 2010, at 5:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> I think I've finally isolated the original cause of a series of blown >> exhaust flange gaskets: two of the three studs on one manifold were >> weak and would not hold tension. I finally ended up stripping them >> while trying to apply a reasonable torqe (20 ft-lbs). Anyway, I >> managed to extract the studs and tried installing 3 new ones I >> happened to have and all of them stripped! > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 21:17:28 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:17:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - Steel studs should not strip in the manifold which is only cast iron. The Manifold threads are probably stripped. Best way to fix it is with a helicoil kit.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I think I've finally isolated the original cause of a series of blown > exhaust flange gaskets: two of the three studs on one manifold were weak and > would not hold tension. I finally ended up stripping them while trying to > apply a reasonable torqe (20 ft-lbs). Anyway, I managed to extract the > studs and tried installing 3 new ones I happened to have and all of them > stripped! I didn't like the looks of them before I put them in--they looked > to be of a very light and soft steel (and they were a good 1/8" > longer--makes getting the downpipes off and on even more difficult). They > were from Moss. > > Anyone have a good source for solid, heavy steel studs? I see Moss has a > stainless kit--anyone tried those? I don't believe that stainless is > necessarily stronger--in fact, it may be more brittle--but maybe they're > better made. 'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware > store--are coarse thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on > both ends. > > Thanks for listening. > > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 18 21:22:45 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:22:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100418202001.02063988@pop.att.yahoo.com> I don't know if this bit of information will help but if the speedo bearing seizes it will cause the angle drive cable to break. John Spaur San Jose, CA '62 BT7 At 03:05 PM 4/18/2010 -0700, Dan Smither wrote: >.... I took it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not >turning. Do you think it >is the cable or the angle adapter??... >Dan Serrao >1963 BJ7 >Fountain Hills, AZ From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 18 21:17:25 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:17:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100418201324.01fef668@pop.att.yahoo.com> Bob, back in 2000 I purchased a manifold stud kit for the block attachment from Don Lenschow; Dun-Rite Tool Company. However, at the end of March he was having some health issues and undergoing treatment for cancer. It is early and I hope he is improving. John I At 05:58 PM 4/18/2010 -0700, you wrote: >Anyone have a good source for solid, heavy steel studs? > >Thanks for listening. > >Bob From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 21:59:06 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:59:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: Other than the fact you would have to buy a handful of coarse nuts, is there any reason you could not use coarse / fine studs? Rick >>'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware store--are coarse thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on both ends. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Apr 18 22:12:53 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 04:12:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?speedo?= Message-ID: <20100419041253.3055.qmail@server278.com> in the last year i have changed out at least three angle drives where the gear and end plate were gone. was able to find one that had fallen onto the rail and not yet made it to terra firma. easy fix and still working. all were missing the copper washer that they recommend you put on the trans side. probably pressure against end cap forced it off. have not had any trouble yet with oil in the speedometers but it could be the next "oh shit" item we all experience. hjim From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 22:26:53 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 00:26:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 'A' type overdrive question Message-ID: List, The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a specific position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper alignment be determined? Ed Woods From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 22:52:44 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 00:52:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5CFEE877A4704DBBA69D1119201BA480@Edscomputer> Why not buy some fine all-thread and make your own? Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Ewald" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 11:59 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux > Other than the fact you would have to buy a handful of coarse nuts, is > there > any reason you could not use coarse / fine studs? > Rick > >>>'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware store--are coarse > thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on both ends. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fogbro1 at comcast.net From grday at btinternet.com Mon Apr 19 01:42:38 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:42:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer References: Message-ID: Yes, not of the Nissonger problem but I was aware the cable core was designed to throw oil back into the box. I thought it was the twist in the inner cable rather than the weave of an outer cover. Cable driven Tachographs on goods vehicles suffer from a similar aftermarket problems and is one of the faults you were taught to detect. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "Dan Smither" ; Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 12:30 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer > Hello all, > > This may be a related scenario. We have been experiencing a number of > speedos that have been doing erratic behavior, a lot of bouncing and > sticking of the needle, soon followed by complete failure. Specifically, > all four have all been instances where the speedometers have been > completely rebuilt and reconditioned by Nissonger Instruments within a > couple of thousand mile earlier (if even that much) and new after market > speedo cables from the usual suppliers have been installed. > Upon returning these defective speedos to Nisonger, they've stripped them > down again and had to thoroughly clean oil out of the mechanisms. When > these were returned to us they were accompanied ny a preprinted > standardized nots stating the excessive oil had been found in the > instrument and further warranty work would not be done until the source of > the oil is eliminated. Further converstaion with them stated that it's > quite a common problem with today's replacement speedo cables to have the > inner core "woven the wrong way" so that it acts as an efficient auger > screw to move oil from the gearbox fitting, up the inner cable tube and > into the instrument. They claim that original Smiths cables' inner core is > woven the opposite way so that any auger type effect screws any oil back > toward the gearbox and away from the speedo head. > > Anybody else hear of this? > > Rich Chrysler > -- > From: "Dan Smither" > Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:05 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer > >> I just got back from a 400 mile tour here in AZ with 149 other British >> and >> European cars. About 60 miles from home the speedometer quit working. I >> took >> it loose from the guage and the inner cable was not turning. Do you think >> it >> is the cable or the angle adapter?? I had Moma rebuild the guage about a >> year >> ago and the cable has only about 4k miles on it. I haven't taken it apart >> yet >> to see if the inner cable turns at both ends. All help is very much >> appreciated. >> >> Dan Serrao >> 1963 BJ7 >> Fountain Hills, AZ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday at btinternet.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 19 02:03:20 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:03:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] speedo In-Reply-To: <20100419041253.3055.qmail@server278.com> References: <20100419041253.3055.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4BCC0E48.900@chello.nl> In general a speedo (or rev counter) cable should never be lubricated with oil. This will nearly always lead to problems: to much oil being used, pumping action up or down, little resistance to corrosion. Let the outer cable soak in petrol or white spirits for a day or use a degreaser unit to pump degreasing agent through the cable for a while. Rinse out thoroughly with clean petrol or white spirits and let dry forcing some air from an air gun through it. Clean your inner cable in petrol or white spirits, dry thoroughly and apply lithium grease sparingly (ball bearing grease as used in the wheel bearings, this can endure some water). Just a thin coat well worked into the strands will be sufficient. Needles to say that everything, including your hands, should be spotlessly clean. That should be all. No pumping action and oil/grease in the wrong places. Also make sure you shim out the angle drive (or the standard drive on the box in other applications) and speedo. There should never be any load from the inner cable onto the drive or the speedo. If the clamp ring on the inner cable is on the speedo side, check with the cable fitted to the speedo: there should always be a little play up/down with the speedo connected and the angle drive disconnected. Take measurements at the angle drive side, the male part (cable end should be shorter than the hole in the angle drive is deep). If the clamp ring is on the angle drive side apply the same procedure with the cable fitted to the angle drive. In short: Use grease, not oil and make sure that the inner cable can move up and down a little when fitted in any application. Of course it also should turn freely and there should be no kinks in outer or inner cable. Kees Oudesluijs NL From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 06:43:07 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 05:43:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BCC4FDB.70005@comcast.net> All the studs I saw had coarse threads on the 'short' end--the one that goes into the manifold. But, yes, theoretically you could do that. Kinda wonder why Austin used fine/fine. bs Richard Ewald wrote: > Other than the fact you would have to buy a handful of coarse nuts, is > there any reason you could not use coarse / fine studs? > Rick > > >>'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware store--are > coarse thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on both ends. > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 06:46:28 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 05:46:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <5CFEE877A4704DBBA69D1119201BA480@Edscomputer> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> <5CFEE877A4704DBBA69D1119201BA480@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <4BCC50A4.5010103@comcast.net> I thought of that. The main reason is that I thought all-thread might keep screwing into the manifold when I torqued the nuts down (there's an unthreaded part on the studs that prevents that). But, I may go that approach. bs Ed Woods wrote: > Why not buy some fine all-thread and make your own? > > Ed Woods > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Apr 19 07:15:37 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 06:15:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: speedo Message-ID: Is graphite not a good speedo cable lube - or is using graphite an obsolete idea ? Dick Matson _________________________________________________________ Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 1:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] speedo In general a speedo (or rev counter) cable should never be lubricated with oil. This will nearly always lead to problems: to much oil being used, pumping action up or down, little resistance to corrosion. Let the outer cable soak in petrol or white spirits for a day or use a degreaser unit to pump degreasing agent through the cable for a while. Rinse out thoroughly with clean petrol or white spirits and let dry forcing some air from an air gun through it. Clean your inner cable in petrol or white spirits, dry thoroughly and apply lithium grease sparingly (ball bearing grease as used in the wheel bearings, this can endure some water). Just a thin coat well worked into the strands will be sufficient. Needles to say that everything, including your hands, should be spotlessly clean. That should be all. No pumping action and oil/grease in the wrong places. Also make sure you shim out the angle drive (or the standard drive on the box in other applications) and speedo. There should never be any load from the inner cable onto the drive or the speedo. If the clamp ring on the inner cable is on the speedo side, check with the cable fitted to the speedo: there should always be a little play up/down with the speedo connected and the angle drive disconnected. Take measurements at the angle drive side, the male part (cable end should be shorter than the hole in the angle drive is deep). If the clamp ring is on the angle drive side apply the same procedure with the cable fitted to the angle drive. In short: Use grease, not oil and make sure that the inner cable can move up and down a little when fitted in any application. Of course it also should turn freely and there should be no kinks in outer or inner cable. Kees Oudesluijs NL _______________________________________________ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 07:25:20 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 06:25:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCC4FDB.70005@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> <4BCC4FDB.70005@comcast.net> Message-ID: Look at the Doorman catalog online. They do make studs with the coarse threads on the long end. You might have to order a whole box, but it would solve the problem On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > All the studs I saw had coarse threads on the 'short' end--the one that > goes into the manifold. But, yes, theoretically you could do that. > > Kinda wonder why Austin used fine/fine. > > bs > > > > Richard Ewald wrote: > >> Other than the fact you would have to buy a handful of coarse nuts, is >> there any reason you could not use coarse / fine studs? >> Rick >> >> >>'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware store--are coarse >> thread on one end and fine on the other. I need fine on both ends. >> >> >> >> > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From warthodson at aol.com Mon Apr 19 07:28:10 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> Message-ID: <8CCADDB4A214F05-1D54-1DDC@Webmail-d114.sysops.aol.com> Could your speedo error be caused by tires that are a different circumference than original? Gary -----Original Message----- From: pennell at cox.net To: 'Dan Smither' ; John Sims ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 7:50 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer All, On a similar note the speedo on my BN7 has been reading 15-20% high since the esto in 2001. Tranny and overdrive rebuilt by a reputable AH guy on the east oast when I bought the car. Sent the speedo to Nisonger in around 04 and they aid it tested within limits of a Healey. Could a wrong gear in the angle drive be the culprit? Is there such a thing? ny other thoughts? Keith ---- John Sims wrote: Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 07:30:13 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 06:30:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net> <4BCC4FDB.70005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BCC5AE5.5040502@comcast.net> That's the problem: the Healey takes a stud with fine threads on both ends (else I could get replacements at the local hardware store). bs Richard Ewald wrote: > Look at the Doorman catalog online. They do make studs with the > coarse threads on the long end. You might have to order a whole box, > but it would solve the problem > > On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > All the studs I saw had coarse threads on the 'short' end--the one > that goes into the manifold. But, yes, theoretically you could > do that. > > Kinda wonder why Austin used fine/fine. > > bs > > > > Richard Ewald wrote: > > Other than the fact you would have to buy a handful of coarse > nuts, is there any reason you could not use coarse / fine studs? > Rick > > >>'Standard' studs--the kind you can get at the hardware > store--are coarse thread on one end and fine on the other. I > need fine on both ends. > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > ******************************************************************* > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 08:04:17 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:04:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: speedo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCC62E1.3030708@comcast.net> Our favorite Lister (Ed) highly recommends it. I just used it on a new cable--we'll see how it goes. FWIW, I've used white grease before and never had a problem with grease in the speedo case. bs Dick Matson wrote: > Is graphite not a good speedo cable lube - or is using graphite an obsolete > idea ? > Dick Matson > _________________________________________________________ > > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 19 08:08:21 2010 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:08:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCC50A4.5010103@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Bob, If the Dorman section of a local Mom and Pop auto parts doesn't have them, try http://www.arp-bolts.com/ or http://www.totallystainless.com/totally.html From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Apr 19 08:08:58 2010 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:08:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: <410019.55481.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <410019.55481.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420672@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time and money spent not driving. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 08:15:18 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:15:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 'A' type overdrive question Message-ID: Subject: 'A' type overdrive question List, The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a specific position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? Or is it critical at all? If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper alignment be determined? Again, would it matter? Ed Woods From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Apr 19 08:35:27 2010 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:35:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes References: <8FFAC384A9174270B1AF38E77A6DD99A@PeterPC> Message-ID: <4AE039E3319742479C53D10F5AC54934@S0026273562> My BN1, of nearly the same vintage as Peter's (BN1L/ 221626), had reflector pods but an "Austin of England" boot-lid badge--but I can't be sure that the latter is "as original," since the car was repainted at least 3 times and the badge might well have been a replacement. Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Linn" To: Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 5:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] BN1 changes > G'day list > > I've been doing a bit of work recently on a BN1 bought by an acquaintance > here > in Brisbane. The car is chassis no. BN1/221569, and the Heritage > certificate > puts it as a Nov 1954 build. It has the oval, metal chassis plate attached > to > the LH footwell trim panel which, according to Anderson & Moment's book, > is > right for that period. However, the car has no reflector pods on the rear > shroud, nor any evidence of them being fitted. Also it has the "Austin of > England" rather than "Austin Healey" boot badge. Both of these features > should, according to the restoration book, be present on a Nov 1954 car. > Anyone got any ideas? > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 19 08:45:41 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:45:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: speedo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCC6C95.1090505@chello.nl> Dick, I suppose you can use graphite or MoS2 grease as long it can handle water as Lithium grease can. Pure Graphite powder I would not personally use but it may be perfectly OK. I do not know. Kees Oudesluijs NL Dick Matson wrote: > Is graphite not a good speedo cable lube - or is using graphite an obsolete > idea ? > Dick Matson > _________________________________________________________ > > > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 1:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] speedo > > > In general a speedo (or rev counter) cable should never be lubricated > with oil. This will nearly always lead to problems: to much oil being > used, pumping action up or down, little resistance to corrosion. > Let the outer cable soak in petrol or white spirits for a day or use a > degreaser unit to pump degreasing agent through the cable for a while. > Rinse out thoroughly with clean petrol or white spirits and let dry > forcing some air from an air gun through it. > Clean your inner cable in petrol or white spirits, dry thoroughly and > apply lithium grease sparingly (ball bearing grease as used in the wheel > bearings, this can endure some water). Just a thin coat well worked into > the strands will be sufficient. Needles to say that everything, > including your hands, should be spotlessly clean. That should be all. No > pumping action and oil/grease in the wrong places. > Also make sure you shim out the angle drive (or the standard drive on > the box in other applications) and speedo. There should never be any > load from the inner cable onto the drive or the speedo. > If the clamp ring on the inner cable is on the speedo side, check with > the cable fitted to the speedo: there should always be a little play > up/down with the speedo connected and the angle drive disconnected. Take > measurements at the angle drive side, the male part (cable end should be > shorter than the hole in the angle drive is deep). > If the clamp ring is on the angle drive side apply the same procedure > with the cable fitted to the angle drive. > > In short: > Use grease, not oil and make sure that the inner cable can move up and > down a little when fitted in any application. Of course it also should > turn freely and there should be no kinks in outer or inner cable. > > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2820 - datum van uitgifte: 04/19/10 08:31:00 From fortee9er at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 08:48:42 2010 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:48:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? Message-ID: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the starter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and fuel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has plagued my car since I bought it many years ago. I decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the valve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. I connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the engine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on timing case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the engine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come on. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This happened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. My question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) because of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 80k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was rebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after that but it was always very difficult to start. Thanks in advance for your help. Jorge PS - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 08:55:12 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 22:55:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420672@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> References: <410019.55481.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420672@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Message-ID: Well, I had the displeasure of three different Calimexifornians rear ending my BJ8 on tres separate occasions.... which they had no insurance, if you can believe it. Of course each time I asked to see their driver's licenses of which I got this look like, "if you do ask again, we'll call the cops and throw you in jail for harassment." Anyway, I did subsequently install a 3rd brake light on the BJ8 and have not had a rear ender in over 10 years, knock on BJ8 dash wood. Of course nearsighted Hong Kong taxi drivers, who seem to have that dreaded genetic disorder called "rapid spasmodic gas-brake syndrome," are whole 'nuther can a worms. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:08 PM, Freese, Ken wrote: > All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked > for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think > this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time > and money spent not driving. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick > Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s > > I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an > invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter > how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just > too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm > working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk > http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn > signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a > link when I'm done. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 09:10:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 15:10:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420672@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Message-ID: <974050637.9088621271689854089.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I concur. You can be lit up like the Times Square Christmas tree and it won't help a bit if the bozo in the SUV behind you has his/her head down phoning/texting/whatever. Although I do believe the third brake light is marginally safer overall (but only if the other guy is paying attention--which they often aren't). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time and money spent not driving. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 09:15:17 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:15:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment Message-ID: Healey List, Here's what Nelson Riedel of Buckeye Triumphs wrote about my question: Installing Epicyclic Gear: The sun gear can be installed in the planter carrier with the planet gears in various positions. If the gears are not in the correct position, the sun gear shaft will be off center. This would be recognized when it was impossible to pass the main shaft through the sun gear, the planet carrier and the unidirectional clutch. There are indexing dots stamped into the top of each of the planet gears. Each gear was turned so that the dot is on the outside and a line through the dot and the center of the planet gear shaft also passed through the center of the planet carrier as show in the left photo below. The sun gear was inserted with the planet gears aligned as indicated. The dot alignment was verified after the sun gear was in position. The three dots didn't line up as indicated, so I did it over and got it right. The planet carrier with sun gear was then inserted into the annulus. The sun gear was rotated back and forth slightly to get the gears to mesh properly so that the planet carrier would drop into the annulus.. So position does matter! Ed Woods From jpayne at ThorCon.net Mon Apr 19 09:19:09 2010 From: jpayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers Message-ID: I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. If you have a set you would be interested in selling, please contact me at jpayne at thorcon.net. Thank you, Jonas Payne Director of Preconstruction Thor Construction PH: (702) 269-2007 Fax: (702) 269-7095 Cell: (702) 358-5084 ________________________________ "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 09:55:33 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:55:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: bwaaaah? This makes slightly less than no sense to my 15 watt brain. If you have the planets out of alignment it will throw the sun gear off center? WTF? Assuming that the planets are concentric it should make no difference the position of the planets when the sun gear is fitted. If the planets are not concentric the sun gear is going to wobble as planets walk around the sun gear, and the mesh between the planets and the ring gear will vary and quite possibly bind. Like I said WTF? Can somebody explain this to me using short simple sentences? Rick On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Ed Woods wrote: > Healey List, > > > > Here's what Nelson Riedel of Buckeye Triumphs wrote about my question: > > > > Installing Epicyclic Gear: The sun gear can be installed in the planter > carrier with the planet gears in various positions. If the gears are not > in > the correct position, the sun gear shaft will be off center. This would > be > recognized when it was impossible to pass the main shaft through the sun > gear, > the planet carrier and the unidirectional clutch. There are indexing dots > stamped into the top of each of the planet gears. Each gear was turned so > that the dot is on the outside and a line through the dot and the center of > the planet gear shaft also passed through the center of the planet carrier > as > show in the left photo below. The sun gear was inserted with the planet > gears > aligned as indicated. The dot alignment was verified after the sun gear > was > in position. The three dots didn't line up as indicated, so I did it over > and > got it right. The planet carrier with sun gear was then inserted into the > annulus. The sun gear was rotated back and forth slightly to get the > gears > to mesh properly so that the planet carrier would drop into the annulus.. > > > > So position does matter! > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 10:00:22 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:00:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1249508460.9115761271692822721.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sorry, can't let this one go, being a fourth-generation Californian with lots of experience in this area. I think you mistook fear as a threat--the last thing anyone without a DL or insurance wants is cops on the scene. In CA, at least, anyone who rearends someone is ALWAYS at fault under the law (ask me how I know). A 'harassment' charge would have any cop I've ever met--quite a few, actually--laughing his ass off. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Well, I had the displeasure of three different Calimexifornians rear ending my BJ8 on tres separate occasions.... which they had no insurance, if you can believe it. Of course each time I asked to see their driver's licenses of which I got this look like, "if you do ask again, we'll call the cops and throw you in jail for harassment." Anyway, I did subsequently install a 3rd brake light on the BJ8 and have not had a rear ender in over 10 years, knock on BJ8 dash wood. Of course nearsighted Hong Kong taxi drivers, who seem to have that dreaded genetic disorder called "rapid spasmodic gas-brake syndrome," are whole 'nuther can a worms. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From alexmm at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 19 10:10:27 2010 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:10:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers References: Message-ID: <3D0B3D79FAA34463968512E68F7C0D78@atc0f226cd3237> Jonas, I got a great set from Apple Hydraulics. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" To: Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers >I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. > > If you have a set you would be interested in selling, please contact me at > jpayne at thorcon.net. > > Thank you, > > Jonas Payne > Director of Preconstruction > Thor Construction > PH: (702) 269-2007 > Fax: (702) 269-7095 > Cell: (702) 358-5084 [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Apr 19 10:27:18 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:27:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On the subject of BN7/BT7 type calipers, is there an available conversion to BJ8 type brakes that doesn't involve all new spindles and hubs? Thanks Wilko San Diego On Apr 19, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 19 11:04:25 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 19:04:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? In-Reply-To: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCC8D19.70706@chello.nl> The only thing to do is to turn the distributor body until the ignition timing is correct. Use a Xenon stoboscopic light. If you are not familiar with the procedure have it done by a competent mechanic. Replacing the distributor and/or fitting an electronic ignition will throw of the timing. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jorge Garcia wrote: > I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the starter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and fuel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has plagued my car since I bought it many years ago. > I decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the valve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. > I connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the engine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on timing case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the engine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come on. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This happened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. > My question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) because of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 80k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was rebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after that but it was always very difficult to start. > Thanks in advance for your help. > Jorge > PS - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2820 - datum van uitgifte: 04/19/10 08:31:00 From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 11:08:53 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 13:08:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment References: Message-ID: <5E099EAB2E724663BCEB8EA8626D07A5@Edscomputer> Richard, I agree, it makes not sense but John Esposito of Quantumechanics says: I have seen this planetary problem a few times over the years. The only way to make it useable is to keep trying different positions with the planetaries, sunwheel and annulus until you get a smooth engagement. I then mark the planetaries with a punch so you can use it when you need it. This can take a lot of patience!!! So, since the "proof is in the pudding", I'll assemble the sun and planetary gears, along with the annulus and see if the mainshaft will pass through the sunwheel and engage the spline in the annulus without regard to the position of the planetary gears. I'll let you know what I find. Best, Ed From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Apr 19 11:09:19 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:09:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? In-Reply-To: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cadfe3$0cee1420$26ca3c60$@ca> Most likely ignition timing. To be certain, put #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke and ensure that both valves are closed. They won't be "exactly" closed depending upon the lob centre angle of the camshaft you have. However, should be close. Likely, the inlet valve will close just after TDC. If this is happens, your cam timing is likely correct and you should focus on your ignition timing. With resepct to Ignition timing, being off 2" does not necessarily mean that the distributor is in wrong.....if such was the case, you would be out 180 degrees.....likely the distributor was not tightned down and simply rotated....move it back to where it belongs and try starting. Going by memory I think it should be at 15 degrees BTDC at static.....but, you should double check with the manual. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:49 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the starter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and fuel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has plagued my car since I bought it many years ago. I decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the valve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. I connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the engine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on timing case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the engine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come on. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This happened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. My question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) because of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 80k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was rebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after that but it was always very difficult to start. Thanks in advance for your help. Jorge PS - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Apr 19 12:14:04 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:14:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment In-Reply-To: <5E099EAB2E724663BCEB8EA8626D07A5@Edscomputer> References: <5E099EAB2E724663BCEB8EA8626D07A5@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <519A94BFFBC74384B754B49290BD89E3@oscar> Ed, The Factory already has the timing marks on the planetary gears which correspond to marks on the sun gear. Align them and the sun gear will "easily" mesh. It sounds astrophysical but it's not really rocket science. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:09 AM To: Richard Ewald Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment Richard, I agree, it makes not sense but John Esposito of Quantumechanics says: I have seen this planetary problem a few times over the years. The only way to make it useable is to keep trying different positions with the planetaries, sunwheel and annulus until you get a smooth engagement. I then mark the planetaries with a punch so you can use it when you need it. This can take a lot of patience!!! So, since the "proof is in the pudding", I'll assemble the sun and planetary gears, along with the annulus and see if the mainshaft will pass through the sunwheel and engage the spline in the annulus without regard to the position of the planetary gears. I'll let you know what I find. Best, Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From warthodson at aol.com Mon Apr 19 12:16:52 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:16:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? In-Reply-To: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCAE039CA8EA39-1F54-5C4F@webmail-d099.sysops.aol.com> Check the basics first. Make sure you are coming up on the compression stroke, both valves closed & not the exhaust stroke. The spark occurs when the points or Pertronix OPENS the circuit & the current stops flowing, not when it closes & the current flows. Therefore, rotate the engine in the normal direction (well before TDC, maybe 90 degrees BTDC) coming up on the compression stroke & observe when the light goes OFF. That should occur at approximately 6-10 degrees before TDC. If not, adjust the distributor until it does. This assumes the cam is timed correctly. Someone else can explain how to determine that. BTW, Healeys are notoriously hard to start if the choke is not functioning as designed/intended. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2010 9:48 am Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the tarter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and uel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has lagued my car since I bought it many years ago. decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the alve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the ngine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on iming case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the ngine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come n. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This appened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. y question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) ecause of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 0k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was ebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after hat but it was always very difficult to start. hanks in advance for your help. orge S - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From mgtd51 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 19:28:45 2010 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:28:45 -1100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCD034D.2070505@comcast.net> Peter Caldwell. World Wide Auto Import. Madison Wisconsin. On 4/19/2010 4:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. > > If you have a set you would be interested in selling, please contact me at > jpayne at thorcon.net. > > Thank you, > > Jonas Payne > Director of Preconstruction > Thor Construction > PH: (702) 269-2007 > Fax: (702) 269-7095 > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > > > ________________________________ > "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the > use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have > received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 > and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to > solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email > are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor > Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and > any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability > for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51 at comcast.net From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 19 12:34:13 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 18:34:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Blown exhaust gaskets redux In-Reply-To: <4BCC5AE5.5040502@comcast.net> References: <4BCBAACB.5080100@comcast.net>, , <4BCC4FDB.70005@comcast.net>, , <4BCC5AE5.5040502@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob Namrick do both types, they can also get most things, so if you need a new bits and bobs why not make up an order of hard to get english bits: http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=30 cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From rjswain at hotmail.com Mon Apr 19 12:52:45 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 18:52:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? In-Reply-To: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <846629.71165.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It's my understanding that the timing mark on Healey pulleys isn't all that accurate. Mine certainly doesn't seem to be. I set my timing by adjusting until I get the best idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. When I checked with a strobe it looked like the engine was firing after top dead centre if the mark was to be believed. One of these days I'll get around to accurately marking tdc on the pulley Rick Swain59 BN4 > Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 07:48:42 -0700 > From: fortee9er at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? > > I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the starter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and fuel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has plagued my car since I bought it many years ago. > I decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the valve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. > I connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the engine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on timing case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the engine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come on. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This happened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. > My question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) because of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 80k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was rebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after that but it was always very difficult to start. > Thanks in advance for your help. > Jorge > PS - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjswain at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Videos that have everyone talking! Now also in HD! http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724465 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 13:59:19 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 19:59:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing is way off what do I do now? In-Reply-To: <4BCC8D19.70706@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1601387678.9244061271707159059.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Could a slipped harmonic balancer cause this problem? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA The only thing to do is to turn the distributor body until the ignition timing is correct. Use a Xenon stoboscopic light. If you are not familiar with the procedure have it done by a competent mechanic. Replacing the distributor and/or fitting an electronic ignition will throw of the timing. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jorge Garcia wrote: > I have not been able to start my BJ8 since last year when I replaced the starter. The engine cranks, the spark plugs fire, there is fuel in the carbs and fuel lines but the car refuses to start. This has been a problem that has plagued my car since I bought it many years ago. > I decided to go for the basics and try to set timing manually and remove the valve cover to check valve clearance as I rotated the engine. > I connected a lamp at the coil and the grounded the other side. I rotated the engine by hand to TDC - crank pulley mark matched up to timing indicator on timing case. Turned ignition on and the light did not come on. I rotated the engine to 10 deg BTDC (with ignition still on) and the light still did not come on. I started rotating the engine clockwise until the light came on. This happened when the crank pulley mark was approximately 2" past TDC. > My question to the group is does this mean that cam timing is off (way off) because of a problem with the timing chain which I suspect is the original with 80k miles on it. Or is the distributor stuck in wrong? The distributor was rebuilt a couple of years ago and reinstalled by my mechanic. It did run after that but it was always very difficult to start. > Thanks in advance for your help. > Jorge > PS - The points were replaced with a Pertronix unit a few years ago. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 14:22:46 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:22:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment References: <5E099EAB2E724663BCEB8EA8626D07A5@Edscomputer> <519A94BFFBC74384B754B49290BD89E3@oscar> Message-ID: <2F1AE34E656540C7B58C838BF000E4D4@Edscomputer> Dave and All, The thing that precipitated my inquiry was the fact that this particular 22% planetary has NO punch marks. I have probably done in excess of 50 'A' type overdrive transmissions, both Austin Healey and Triumph, and have never found this to be the case till now. So, I was wondering how proper alignment was to be found in the absence of these marks. So, this afternoon I installed this 22% planetary, sunwheel, and annulus in the rear case and attempted to install the mainshaft. What I found was that, no mater where the planetary gears were positioned, the mainshaft went fully home and the assembly turned freely. Next, I did the same with a 28% set I had on hand. What I found was that the sunwheel/planetary combination could only be inserted into the annulus when the alignment marks were positioned per the book. If any one of the 3 planetary gears was out of position, the sunwheel/planetary could not be inserted into the annulus. Unfortunately I do not have a "marked" 22% planetary/sunwheel on hand, so cannot try to duplicate the results I had with the 28% set. So, on the basis of these two tests, my conclusion is that an unmarked set is unmarked because it doesn't need to be aligned and that a marked set does require the proper alignment. Don't know why one set in 50 would be unmarked, but that's the way my somewhat limited test turned out. Maybe the folks that took over from Laycock-de-Normanville can explain??? Best, Ed Woods Subject: RE: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment > Ed, > The Factory already has the timing marks on the planetary gears which > correspond to marks on the sun gear. Align them and the sun gear will > "easily" mesh. It sounds astrophysical but it's not really rocket science. > dave From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 15:54:30 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 17:54:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question Message-ID: <5B94EB2681664854A4E92F61CD52C063@Edscomputer> >From a guru, Randall, on the Triumph List. Applicable to all Big Healeys with overdrive. Subject: Re: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question >> The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a >> specific >> position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. >> >> Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? > > I'm not sure I can explain this clearly, so bear with me. > > The number of teeth on the annulus is not a multiple of the number of > teeth > on the sun gear. Thus, if you draw an imaginary line from the center of > rotation of the sunwheel, through the center of each planetary gear, it > will > hit both the sunwheel tooth and the annulus tooth in different positions. > The two gears that are joined together to create each planetary gear are > offset to match this "phase shift", but only in a certain position (since > they also have different numbers of teeth). > > Some positions of the marks are simply impossible (the teeth won't mesh); > but in some cases there is enough accumulated clearance to allow them to > slide into engagement. That will pull the planetary carrier and sun gear > off-center to some extent, leading to vibration in operation. It also > causes most of the load to be carried by one planetary gear instead of > evenly divided between 3 of them, so increased wear and even potentially > tooth breakage could ensue. > >> If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper >> alignment be determined? > > If the gears were not marked for some reason, I think I'd want to look for > another set of gears. At any rate, I can't think of a guaranteed method > of > lining them up, short of cutting apart an annulus so the tooth engagement > could be examined in situ. However, you might be able to do a setup > without > the housing, and check that everything is running on the same center, > which > _might_ be good enough. > > -- Randall From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Apr 19 18:02:38 2010 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:02:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "M" Carbs & Cold Air Box Message-ID: <20100419.170318.17206.204361@mailpop03.dca.untd.com> For the serious restoration I have available a set of original "M" carbs with the correct front & rear etched numbers. The cold air box was made using an original as the pattern, to OEM specs, by the craftsman of a premier restoration shop. They are being offered by a non lister who, after many years in the hobby, is selling his stock due to health reasons. If you have an interest in either or both, please contact me off the list. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bccef6dae855e01c4st01duc From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Mon Apr 19 18:29:32 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 00:29:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: The quick answer is NO. The early 3000 calipers (type 14) have a distance of 3-1/4" between the mounting hole centers. The BJ8 calipers (type 16) are 3-1/2" center to center. Having said that, one could plug the holes on the early 3000 caliper mounting brackets, re-drill and tap the brackets for the BJ8 spacing. The early and late rotors are the same diameter but the BJ8 rotors are 1/2' thick while the early rotors are only 3/8" thick. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: e-wilkins at cox.net > Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:27:18 -0700 > CC: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers > > On the subject of BN7/BT7 type calipers, is there an available > conversion to BJ8 type brakes that doesn't involve all new spindles > and hubs? > > Thanks > > Wilko > San Diego > > On Apr 19, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 18:36:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:36:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There's nothing bizarre about this at all. The annulus will still rotate around the sun wheel even if the planetary gears are installed one or two teeth off from equidistant distribution. The annulus will simply rotate off centre to the sun gear, and the planetary gears will mesh slightly out of alighnment. The dots help make sure each of the planetary gears are mounted equidistantly from each other, that's all. Alan On 4/19/10, Ed Woods wrote: > Healey List, > > > > Here's what Nelson Riedel of Buckeye Triumphs wrote about my question: > > > > Installing Epicyclic Gear: The sun gear can be installed in the planter > carrier with the planet gears in various positions. If the gears are not > in > the correct position, the sun gear shaft will be off center. This would > be > recognized when it was impossible to pass the main shaft through the sun > gear, > the planet carrier and the unidirectional clutch. There are indexing dots > stamped into the top of each of the planet gears. Each gear was turned so > that the dot is on the outside and a line through the dot and the center of > the planet gear shaft also passed through the center of the planet carrier > as > show in the left photo below. The sun gear was inserted with the planet > gears > aligned as indicated. The dot alignment was verified after the sun gear was > in position. The three dots didn't line up as indicated, so I did it over > and > got it right. The planet carrier with sun gear was then inserted into the > annulus. The sun gear was rotated back and forth slightly to get the gears > to mesh properly so that the planet carrier would drop into the annulus.. > > > > So position does matter! > > > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Apr 19 18:58:14 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 17:58:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Would the caliper brackets from a BJ8 fit the earlier spindle? On Apr 19, 2010, at 5:29 PM, richard mayor wrote: > The quick answer is NO. The early 3000 calipers (type 14) have a > distance of 3-1/4" between the mounting hole centers. The BJ8 > calipers (type 16) are 3-1/2" center to center. > Having said that, one could plug the holes on the early 3000 caliper > mounting brackets, re-drill and tap the brackets for the BJ8 > spacing. The early and late rotors are the same diameter but the BJ8 > rotors are 1/2' thick while the early rotors are only 3/8" thick. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > From: e-wilkins at cox.net > > Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:27:18 -0700 > > CC: Healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers > > > > On the subject of BN7/BT7 type calipers, is there an available > > conversion to BJ8 type brakes that doesn't involve all new spindles > > and hubs? > > > > Thanks > > > > Wilko > > San Diego > > > > On Apr 19, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > > > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. Get started. From pennell at cox.net Mon Apr 19 20:06:07 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 22:06:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100419220607.23PKJ.56131.imail@eastrmwml43> All, I am running 185/70 Yokohamas. Rear is 3.9 as far as I know but have not checked it. Don't know about the gears in the rebujilt tranny or OD. In order to account for the large error in speed and distance these would have to be way different from stock sizes or gearing. Keith ---- I Erbs wrote: > what size tires are you running? > > On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 5:50 PM, wrote: > > > All, > > > > On a similar note the speedo on my BN7 has been reading 15-20% high since > > the resto in 2001. Tranny and overdrive rebuilt by a reputable AH guy on > > the east coast when I bought the car. Sent the speedo to Nisonger in around > > 04 and they said it tested within limits of a Healey. > > > > Could a wrong gear in the angle drive be the culprit? Is there such a > > thing? Any other thoughts? > > > > Keith > > > > ---- John Sims wrote: > > > Almost always the angle drive. Anyway, that is what happened to mine. You > > > have to pop the tranny cover off to get at it. > > > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > > Aberdeen, NJ > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Apr 19 20:23:07 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 19:23:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s Message-ID: Well, a third brake light effort on our old cars is time and money spent not driving. And then again lot's of production cars have them now. Why ? Dick Matson Cashmere, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: Freese, Ken To: HealeyRick ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time and money spent not driving. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Mon Apr 19 23:16:35 2010 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:16:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <64AF24EA-CBCE-4168-946F-89AC4CA1F849@bornet.net> There is a metric type 16 caliper that will fit the earlier cars. The distance between the mounting holes is exactly the same as on the type 14. Other than this it4s exactly the same caliper as used on the BJ8. This caliper was used on European Fords such as Escorts, Granada and Taunus in the early seventies. Look for cars with unventilated discs and you will get the right one. If this sounds too complicated most of the suppliers in England have them in stock but at a dearer price. Magnus Karlsson Bores Motor Corporation AB www.concourshealeys.com From grday at btinternet.com Tue Apr 20 01:18:34 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:18:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s References: Message-ID: Why ? Because they are instrumental in assisting road safety. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:23 AM Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s > Well, a third brake light effort on our old cars is time and money spent > not > driving. And then again lot's of production cars have them now. Why ? > > Dick Matson > Cashmere, WA > > > ----- Original Message ----- > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:08 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s > > All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked > for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think > this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time > and money spent not driving. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > ----- Original Message ----- >Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM > Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s > > I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an > invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter > how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just > too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm > working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk > http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a > combo brake light/ turn > signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a > link when I'm done. > _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 20 03:21:45 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:21:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Third brake lights are practically only an extra safety item if placed in the proper position, i.e. high, over the rear window. It has much less effect when placed low on the rear deck. They are often positioned on the rear deck of modern cars just to comply to the rules, not for added safety. Kees Oudesluijs NL From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 20 03:41:24 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:41:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment References: Message-ID: <000801cae06d$a4905560$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Equidistantly? Have you been reading the Edbonics book of grammar confusion Alan? ML ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Ed Woods" ; Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 8:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive planetary alignment > There's nothing bizarre about this at all. The annulus will still > rotate around the sun wheel even if the planetary gears are installed > one or two teeth off from equidistant distribution. The annulus will > simply rotate off centre to the sun gear, and the planetary gears will > mesh slightly out of alighnment. > > The dots help make sure each of the planetary gears are mounted > equidistantly from each other, that's all. > > Alan > > On 4/19/10, Ed Woods wrote: >> Healey List, >> >> >> >> Here's what Nelson Riedel of Buckeye Triumphs wrote about my question: >> >> >> >> Installing Epicyclic Gear: The sun gear can be installed in the planter >> carrier with the planet gears in various positions. If the gears are >> not >> in >> the correct position, the sun gear shaft will be off center. This >> would >> be >> recognized when it was impossible to pass the main shaft through the sun >> gear, >> the planet carrier and the unidirectional clutch. There are indexing dots >> stamped into the top of each of the planet gears. Each gear was turned >> so >> that the dot is on the outside and a line through the dot and the center >> of >> the planet gear shaft also passed through the center of the planet >> carrier >> as >> show in the left photo below. The sun gear was inserted with the planet >> gears >> aligned as indicated. The dot alignment was verified after the sun gear >> was >> in position. The three dots didn't line up as indicated, so I did it >> over >> and >> got it right. The planet carrier with sun gear was then inserted into >> the >> annulus. The sun gear was rotated back and forth slightly to get the >> gears >> to mesh properly so that the planet carrier would drop into the annulus.. >> >> >> >> So position does matter! >> >> >> >> Ed Woods >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Apr 20 05:28:04 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:28:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question In-Reply-To: <5B94EB2681664854A4E92F61CD52C063@Edscomputer> References: <5B94EB2681664854A4E92F61CD52C063@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <1F8242A38BFF4F44A68697C6FB0511DE@oscar> The 3 planets are aligned with the marks in the same axis as each gears center point such that the marks are exposed at the outer most edge of the carrier. These teeth are relieved to allow easy installation. Nothing more. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question >From a guru, Randall, on the Triumph List. Applicable to all Big Healeys with overdrive. Subject: Re: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question >> The 3 gears on the planetary set are marked so that they are in a >> specific >> position relative to one another when the sunwheel is engaged. >> >> Why is this so? In other words, why is their position critical? > > I'm not sure I can explain this clearly, so bear with me. > > The number of teeth on the annulus is not a multiple of the number of > teeth > on the sun gear. Thus, if you draw an imaginary line from the center of > rotation of the sunwheel, through the center of each planetary gear, it > will > hit both the sunwheel tooth and the annulus tooth in different positions. > The two gears that are joined together to create each planetary gear are > offset to match this "phase shift", but only in a certain position (since > they also have different numbers of teeth). > > Some positions of the marks are simply impossible (the teeth won't mesh); > but in some cases there is enough accumulated clearance to allow them to > slide into engagement. That will pull the planetary carrier and sun gear > off-center to some extent, leading to vibration in operation. It also > causes most of the load to be carried by one planetary gear instead of > evenly divided between 3 of them, so increased wear and even potentially > tooth breakage could ensue. > >> If the gears were not marked for some reason, how could proper >> alignment be determined? > > If the gears were not marked for some reason, I think I'd want to look for > another set of gears. At any rate, I can't think of a guaranteed method > of > lining them up, short of cutting apart an annulus so the tooth engagement > could be examined in situ. However, you might be able to do a setup > without > the housing, and check that everything is running on the same center, > which > _might_ be good enough. > > -- Randall _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Apr 20 06:24:42 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 07:24:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars had them, much of that extra noticability went away. Greg Lemon From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Apr 20 06:33:58 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:33:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Why would one want to screw with these parts at all? Each setup is fine with it's own set of parts. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 8:58 PM To: "richard mayor" Cc: "healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers > Would the caliper brackets from a BJ8 fit the earlier spindle? > > On Apr 19, 2010, at 5:29 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> The quick answer is NO. The early 3000 calipers (type 14) have a >> distance of 3-1/4" between the mounting hole centers. The BJ8 >> calipers (type 16) are 3-1/2" center to center. >> Having said that, one could plug the holes on the early 3000 caliper >> mounting brackets, re-drill and tap the brackets for the BJ8 >> spacing. The early and late rotors are the same diameter but the BJ8 >> rotors are 1/2' thick while the early rotors are only 3/8" thick. >> >> Richard Mayor >> BN7L-466 Vintage Racer >> Portland, Oregon >> >> >> >> >> > From: e-wilkins at cox.net >> > Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:27:18 -0700 >> > CC: Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers >> > >> > On the subject of BN7/BT7 type calipers, is there an available >> > conversion to BJ8 type brakes that doesn't involve all new spindles >> > and hubs? >> > >> > Thanks >> > >> > Wilko >> > San Diego >> > >> > On Apr 19, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: >> > >> > > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com >> >> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your >> inbox. Get started. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 06:57:23 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:57:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> Message-ID: <4BCDA4B3.8000802@comcast.net> Credit anti-government, anti-regulation crusader Ronald W. Reagan for that particular big-government regulation: http://www.articlealley.com/article_932332_31.html bs (FWIW, I liked Reagan) Greg Lemon wrote: > This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some > studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by > other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea > to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars > had them, much of that extra noticability went away. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 06:59:44 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:59:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: <64AF24EA-CBCE-4168-946F-89AC4CA1F849@bornet.net> References: , <64AF24EA-CBCE-4168-946F-89AC4CA1F849@bornet.net> Message-ID: <70A1704D-AF00-4C4D-B971-6205B52DDEB1@gmail.com> Exactly as Magnus said. Use the metric type 16. Then you just need the appropriate flex hose, and thicker rotor, and BJ8 type pads (for competition use, or local autoparts supply, where they want to know the car, look at Capri RS3000 listings, they use the same pads, sometimes you need to drill out the 2 pin locators) Again, check the usual UK suspects, where you can get a range of eg Ferodo DS3000, DS4003 etc pads But unless you get remaufactured stubs, at least crack test yours first. Geoff Healey wrote a long (1 page) "warning bulletin" about pre BJ8 stub axle failure back in about 1990. This was an unprecedented move by Geoff, purely motivated by our safety. And your pre BJ8 stubs are now 20 years older than when Geoff first issued his warning..... Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 20/04/2010, at 3:16 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > There is a metric type 16 caliper that will fit the earlier cars. > The distance > between the mounting holes is exactly the same as on the type 14. > Other than this it4s exactly the same caliper as used on the BJ8. > This caliper was used on European Fords such as Escorts, Granada and > Taunus in > the early seventies. Look for cars with unventilated discs > and you will get the right one. If this sounds too complicated most > of the > suppliers in England have them in stock but at a dearer price From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 07:08:31 2010 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:08:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> Message-ID: <4BCDA74F.5010800@comcast.net> A lot of the problem with LBCs in general is that the lens and socket setup do not have anything that reflects and diffuses the light coming from the bulb as modern systems have. So even making them a bit brighter using halogen bulbs has little effect. Couple that with the stock lights being so low and in some cases partially blocked by the bumper and it is a recipe to not be seen when braking and signaling. On my MG TD I have added additional brake and turn signal lights on top of the gas tank using bright halogen spot bulbs with reflectors for lenses. I've also done this on my BT7 with the additional lights mounted behind where the reflectors are. I have been followed for long distances in the TD and have been told that the higher, brighter lights make a considerable difference. In fact the follower wondered if the the stock lights were still working, because all he noticed were the higher brighter ones. In both cases my installation looks like it belongs on the car with no extra holes drilled in the car or anything added that might scratch the paint. I feel that they both add a large measure of safety with no downside of being ugly or out of place. Charlie Greg Lemon wrote: > This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some > studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by > other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea > to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars > had them, much of that extra noticability went away. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 20 07:33:02 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:33:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net><20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> Rich, Do you have a source for the pointed replacement screws? Thanks. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:55 PM To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator The set screws need to be pointed, and they need to set immediately in front of the inner beveled flange to lock it in place so it turns with the wheel, and so it can't come out. The conical end allen set screw will not work here. It must be pointed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Ray" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:42 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator > Folks, > > Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub tightened > against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? > Or do the go in front or back of the plate? > > The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering wheel, > does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes > > I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage to get > the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the > slightly conical end work? > > > Thanks. > Ron Ray From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 07:51:52 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 06:51:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question In-Reply-To: References: <5B94EB2681664854A4E92F61CD52C063@Edscomputer> <1F8242A38BFF4F44A68697C6FB0511DE@oscar> Message-ID: Finally an explanation that makes sense. Saying that the sun gear would be off center/wobbles makes no sense when you think about it. Thanks Rick On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 4:28 AM, Dave Porter wrote: > The 3 planets are aligned with the marks in the same axis as each gears > center point such that the marks are exposed at the outer most edge of the > carrier. These teeth are relieved to allow easy installation. Nothing more. > dave From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 20 08:24:53 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:24:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <7F46F565513642A5B49C4343C5ED10BA@GregPC> Message-ID: <4BCDB935.2050305@chello.nl> The first generation 3-rd brake lights were over the rear screen of cars and could be noticed through the rear screen and wind screen of the following car by drivers behind this following car, thus effectively reducing pile ups in dense traffic. However later on exceptions were made to allow the 3-rd brake light on the rear deck in some applications, e.g. convertables and now some have the even lower on the rear edge of the trunk, out of sight for the drivers behind the following car. Many non- convertable cars now have the 3-rd brake light on or below the lower edge of the rear screen, thus loosing the originally intended effect. Kees Oudesluijs NL Greg Lemon wrote: > This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some > studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by > other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea > to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars > had them, much of that extra noticability went away. > > Greg Lemon From don at anglesey.us Tue Apr 20 08:42:24 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:42:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <4BCDA4B3.8000802@comcast.net> Message-ID: You would think that after 24 years they would at least have some data that supports their use if they actually made a difference. IMHO they are the ugliest thing I could stick on a Healey and I won't be adding one to my 100-6 in my lifetime but to each his own. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:57 AM To: Greg Lemon Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Credit anti-government, anti-regulation crusader Ronald W. Reagan for that particular big-government regulation: http://www.articlealley.com/article_932332_31.html bs (FWIW, I liked Reagan) Greg Lemon wrote: > This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some > studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by > other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea > to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars > had them, much of that extra noticability went away. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 09:00:47 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:00:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net> <20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> Message-ID: Ron, I recently replaced my old steering wheel with a new one and got new set screws with the wheel. If I dig up my old metal parts dust bin and find the three original screws, you can have them if you let me know your address. My only hope is that I can find them back! Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/20 Ron Ray > Rich, > > Do you have a source for the pointed replacement screws? > Thanks. > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] > Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:55 PM > To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator > > The set screws need to be pointed, and they need to set immediately in > front > > of the inner beveled flange to lock it in place so it turns with the wheel, > and so it can't come out. The conical end allen set screw will not work > here. It must be pointed. > > Rich > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Ron Ray" > Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:42 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator > > > Folks, > > > > Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub tightened > > against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? > > Or do the go in front or back of the plate? > > > > The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering wheel, > > does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes > > > > I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage to get > > the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the > > slightly conical end work? > > > > > > Thanks. > > Ron Ray > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin at gmail.com From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 09:11:08 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 08:11:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: <4BCDA4B3.8000802@comcast.net> Message-ID: I have not driven my car at night in some time, but back in the day when it was my daily driver I used some reflective tape on my rear bumper, just to help people see me. When I am done with the resto. i think I will update the tape idea. Like many parts of the world,we have many folks who drive around as if they are taking a bowl of goldfish for a Sunday drive and they are paying too much attention to the water to notice the cars around them. This applies to all ethnic, age and gender groups. On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 7:42 AM, Don wrote: > You would think that after 24 years they would at least have some data that > supports their use if they actually made a difference. IMHO they are the > ugliest thing I could stick on a Healey and I won't be adding one to my > 100-6 in my lifetime but to each his own. > Don > 57' BN4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:57 AM > To: Greg Lemon > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light > > Credit anti-government, anti-regulation crusader Ronald W. Reagan for > that particular big-government regulation: > > http://www.articlealley.com/article_932332_31.html > > > bs (FWIW, I liked Reagan) > > > > Greg Lemon wrote: > > This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some > > studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by > > other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea > > to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars > > had them, much of that extra noticability went away. > > > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 09:44:33 2010 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:44:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: I had a big Caddy Escalade4 up my tailpipe Sat AM while the driver was on his Cell phone. Made me wish that I had already put something up somewhere higher. Promise you this, the third light will be coming just as soon as I can get the neg conversion completed. Maybe they are not as noticeable as they originally were, but when the jerk behind you is so close he see the original lights, the third light will possibly be seen when all else fails. Also, I am thinking of adding that brake light flasher that I have seen on motorcycles around here. That really get your attention. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Third brake lights are practically only an extra safety item if placed in > the proper position, i.e. high, over the rear window. It has much less > effect when placed low on the rear deck. > They are often positioned on the rear deck of modern cars just to comply to > the rules, not for added safety. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 09:54:27 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:54:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [TR] 'A' type overdrive question References: <5B94EB2681664854A4E92F61CD52C063@Edscomputer> <1F8242A38BFF4F44A68697C6FB0511DE@oscar> Message-ID: Dave and List, Of course everyone's entitled to his own opinion, but I feel the need to quote Wikipedia on this subject: "Some designs use "compound planets" which have two differently-sized gears on either end of a common casting. The large end engages the sun, while the small end engages the annulus. This may be necessary to achieve smaller step changes in gear ratio when the overall package size is limited. Compound planets have "timing marks" and must be assembled in the correct initial orientation relative to each other, or their teeth will not simultaneously engage the sun and annulus at opposite ends of the planet, leading to very rough running and short life." So, the alignment or "timing" marks serve a much greater purpose than simply "ease of installation". Ed Woods From bn1 at pacbell.net Tue Apr 20 10:18:15 2010 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:18:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BCDD3C7.9050003@pacbell.net> Bob and List, Has anybody checked the legality of a flashing 3rd brake light? If my ol', med riddled mind serves me, I believe, at least in CA, they're illegal. Or maybe you just couldn't have the standard brake lights flashing. That comes to mind from JCTaylor selling them back in the '50s & '60s. Bill Barnett '53 Red Car On 4/20/2010 08:44 AM, Bob Johnson wrote: > I had a big Caddy Escalade4 up my tailpipe Sat AM while the driver was > on his Cell phone. Made me wish that I had already put something up > somewhere higher. Promise you this, the third light will be coming > just as soon as I can get the neg conversion completed. Maybe they are > not as noticeable as they originally were, but when the jerk behind > you is so close he see the original lights, the third light will > possibly be seen when all else fails. Also, I am thinking of adding > that brake light flasher that I have seen on motorcycles around here. > That really get your attention. > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > > On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> Third brake lights are practically only an extra safety item if placed in >> the proper position, i.e. high, over the rear window. It has much less >> effect when placed low on the rear deck. >> They are often positioned on the rear deck of modern cars just to comply to >> the rules, not for added safety. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1 at pacbell.net From ah3000me at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 10:58:57 2010 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:58:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: Maybe what we need is sort of eau de skunk sprayers instead? On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 11:44 AM, Bob Johnson wrote: > I had a big Caddy Escalade4 up my tailpipe Sat AM while the driver was > on his Cell phone. Made me wish that I had already put something up > somewhere higher. Promise you this, the third light will be coming > just as soon as I can get the neg conversion completed. Maybe they are > not as noticeable as they originally were, but when the jerk behind > you is so close he see the original lights, the third light will > possibly be seen when all else fails. Also, I am thinking of adding > that brake light flasher that I have seen on motorcycles around here. > That really get your attention. > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > > On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Third brake lights are practically only an extra safety item if placed in >> the proper position, i.e. high, over the rear window. It has much less >> effect when placed low on the rear deck. >> They are often positioned on the rear deck of modern cars just to comply to >> the rules, not for added safety. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From tomkayb at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 11:25:45 2010 From: tomkayb at comcast.net (Tom Blaskovic) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:25:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s References: Message-ID: Libby Dole was the Transportation Secretary and she decided that people were read ending to much because the "car ahead" stopping was not visable enough. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy R Day" To: "Dick Matson" ; "AustinHealey List" Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:18 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s > Why ? > > Because they are instrumental in assisting road safety. > Guy R Day > > ----- Original Message ----- > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:23 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s > > >> Well, a third brake light effort on our old cars is time and money spent >> not >> driving. And then again lot's of production cars have them now. Why ? >> >> Dick Matson >> Cashmere, WA >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:08 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s >> >> All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked >> for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think >> this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time >> and money spent not driving. >> Ken Freese >> 65 BJ8 >> > > ----- Original Message ----- >>Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM >> Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s >> >> I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an >> invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter >> how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just >> too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm >> working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk >> http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me >> a >> combo brake light/ turn >> signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a >> link when I'm done. >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomkayb at comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5042 (20100419) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5045 (20100420) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From willig at wtnet.de Tue Apr 20 11:28:23 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:28:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Le Mans" Headlight Message-ID: <000b01cae0ae$e11d5e10$a3581a30$@de> Can someone tell me where I can get the "le mans" headlamp units for my BN2? Thanks Thomas Willig From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Apr 20 16:16:44 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:16:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: <004b01cae0d7$292a50f0$7b7ef2d0$@rr.com> Having been a passenger in a car that blew through a red traffic light with the driver on a cell phone, I am of the humble opinion that no amount of red lights will stop a jerk behind you who is not paying attention to his driving. On the contrary, if he is paying attention he will see even the dim Healey brake lights. Of course, if the pressure switch is not functioning correctly, that is another story.... Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 8:45 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light I had a big Caddy Escalade4 up my tailpipe Sat AM while the driver was on his Cell phone. Made me wish that I had already put something up somewhere higher. Promise you this, the third light will be coming just as soon as I can get the neg conversion completed. Maybe they are not as noticeable as they originally were, but when the jerk behind you is so close he see the original lights, the third light will possibly be seen when all else fails. Also, I am thinking of adding that brake light flasher that I have seen on motorcycles around here. That really get your attention. Bob Johnson BJ8 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Tue Apr 20 12:16:39 2010 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:16:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Conversion to BJ8 calipers In-Reply-To: References: , , Message-ID: The BJ8 spindles do not use "brackets". The caliper mounts are an integral part of the BJ8 spindle. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon CC: healeys at autox.team.net From: e-wilkins at cox.net To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com Subject: Re: Conversion to BJ8 calipers Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 17:58:14 -0700 Would the caliper brackets from a BJ8 fit the earlier spindle? On Apr 19, 2010, at 5:29 PM, richard mayor wrote:The quick answer is NO. The early 3000 calipers (type 14) have a distance of 3-1/4" between the mounting hole centers. The BJ8 calipers (type 16) are 3-1/2" center to center. Having said that, one could plug the holes on the early 3000 caliper mounting brackets, re-drill and tap the brackets for the BJ8 spacing. The early and late rotors are the same diameter but the BJ8 rotors are 1/2' thick while the early rotors are only 3/8" thick. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: e-wilkins at cox.net > Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:27:18 -0700 > CC: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Brake Calipers > > On the subject of BN7/BT7 type calipers, is there an available > conversion to BJ8 type brakes that doesn't involve all new spindles > and hubs? > > Thanks > > Wilko > San Diego > > On Apr 19, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > I need a set of rebuilt / core BT7 brake front brake calipers. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started. _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Apr 20 16:20:52 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:20:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004c01cae0d7$bd558790$380096b0$@rr.com> More likely the cause was the car behind was following too closely to react in time when he saw the stock brake lights, or he was looking at something else at the time. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Blaskovic Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 10:26 AM To: Guy R Day; Dick Matson; AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s Libby Dole was the Transportation Secretary and she decided that people were read ending to much because the "car ahead" stopping was not visable enough. From neilandcustom at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 12:44:12 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 13:44:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "Le Mans" Headlight In-Reply-To: <000b01cae0ae$e11d5e10$a3581a30$@de> References: <000b01cae0ae$e11d5e10$a3581a30$@de> Message-ID: <000d01cae0b9$7aaa6780$6fff3680$@com> Thomas, You can get them here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LUCAS-24hr-LeMans-Headlights-2-new-_W0QQcmdZV iewItemQQhashZitem563b28f143QQitemZ370359726403QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fP artsQ5fAccessories I paid about $40 more from the same seller two years ago. He has quite a few sets of headlamps. They are not sealed beams, and have the bulbs, and bulb holders included, at least mine did. Neil Anderson '60 BT7 '59 AN5 project -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of T+ B Willig Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:28 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] "Le Mans" Headlight Can someone tell me where I can get the "le mans" headlamp units for my BN2? Thanks Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From edic at tampabay.rr.com Tue Apr 20 13:59:07 2010 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:59:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Extra lighting Message-ID: <001f01cae0c3$efef91a0$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Concerning the topic of extra lighting and visibility, some years ago when I was on the fire department we were at a house fire and the engine was in the street pumping hand lines, with every light flashing/rotating and still a driver managed to run into the back of the truck. We were lit up like a Christmas tree and still not able to escape Murphy. I just wonder how much redundancy we really need. I carry enough spares in the boot to just get to the store and back, and now I have to worry if I am visible enough. I dunno. Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 Land O Lakes, Fl From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Tue Apr 20 14:16:16 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:16:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <629B2750B69A4C3893CAF87D115C3EB9@tm> http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.com/ Not too cheap though... :-) From pennell at cox.net Tue Apr 20 15:08:43 2010 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:08:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Extra lighting In-Reply-To: <001f01cae0c3$efef91a0$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <20100420170843.9B33A.70154.imail@eastrmwml38> Mel, Was texting/phoning involved? My pet peeve. DRIVE OR TALK - TAKE YOUR PICK Keith ---- edic wrote: > Concerning the topic of extra lighting and visibility, some years ago when I > was on the fire department we were at a house fire and the engine was in the > street pumping hand lines, with every light flashing/rotating and still a > driver managed to run into the back of the truck. We were lit up like a > Christmas tree and still not able to escape Murphy. I just wonder how much > redundancy we really need. I carry enough spares in the boot to just get to > the store and back, and now I have to worry if I am visible enough. I dunno. > > > > Mel Brunet From medlabinc at msn.com Tue Apr 20 15:14:25 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:14:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Extra lighting Message-ID: After it's all said and done there are no guarantees. But - if you drive your Austin Healey in highway/freeway traffic at all, a third brake light - probably - is worth the trouble. Dick Matson Cashmere, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:59 PM Subject: [Healeys] Extra lighting Concerning the topic of extra lighting and visibility, some years ago when I was on the fire department we were at a house fire and the engine was in the street pumping hand lines, with every light flashing/rotating and still a driver managed to run into the back of the truck. We were lit up like a Christmas tree and still not able to escape Murphy. I just wonder how much redundancy we really need. I carry enough spares in the boot to just get to the store and back, and now I have to worry if I am visible enough. I dunno. Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 Land O Lakes, Fl From medlabinc at msn.com Tue Apr 20 15:12:47 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:12:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Extra lighting Message-ID: After it's all said and done there are no guarantees. But - if you drive your Austin Healey in highway/freeway traffic at all, a third brake light - probably - is worth the trouble. Dick Matson Cashmere, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:59 PM Subject: [Healeys] Extra lighting Concerning the topic of extra lighting and visibility, some years ago when I was on the fire department we were at a house fire and the engine was in the street pumping hand lines, with every light flashing/rotating and still a driver managed to run into the back of the truck. We were lit up like a Christmas tree and still not able to escape Murphy. I just wonder how much redundancy we really need. I carry enough spares in the boot to just get to the store and back, and now I have to worry if I am visible enough. I dunno. Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 Land O Lakes, Fl _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/medlabinc at msn.com From grday at btinternet.com Tue Apr 20 15:48:34 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:48:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light References: Message-ID: Don, There is considerable data and research papers if you take the trouble to search for it. I will not be doing it for you. You may find them to be the ugliest thing to place on a vehicle and you don't want one. That is not disputed and putting one on a 100-6 will probably not improve its looks. Guy R Day ps There are no research papers I know of that suggest looking pretty is a reason for using a high level additional brake light. ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:42 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light > You would think that after 24 years they would at least have some data > that > supports their use if they actually made a difference. IMHO they are the > ugliest thing I could stick on a Healey and I won't be adding one to my > 100-6 in my lifetime but to each his own. > Don > 57' BN4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:57 AM > To: Greg Lemon > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light > > Credit anti-government, anti-regulation crusader Ronald W. Reagan for > that particular big-government regulation: > > http://www.articlealley.com/article_932332_31.html > > > bs (FWIW, I liked Reagan) > > > > Greg Lemon wrote: >> This is from fuzzy memory, but I think there may have been some >> studies on the thrid brake light that they were highly noticed by >> other drivers when introduced so they thought it would be a good idea >> to use them on all cars, but when, as time went on and most all cars >> had them, much of that extra noticability went away. >> >> Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 18:19:06 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:19:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100S x 3 Message-ID: <678487.95919.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Nice video of the Oct. '56 Cal Club Pomona races here: http://vimeo.com/9644417 There were three 100S entries with Richard Shipman #331; Jim Parkinson #221; and Gil Bloemendaal, #22 up. Parkinson finished in 9th overall and Bloemendaal in13th. They both beat some guy named Jim Hall in the #1 Corvette in 19th. Poke around here: http://tinyurl.com/y3vopdu and have fun connecting some of the big name sporty car drivers of the day to the vid. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 19:09:49 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:09:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Ron Rader on HDT Message-ID: <476540.97549.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Just saw Ron Rader's smiling face with his gorgeous BRG BJ8 on HD Theater. Worth a watch next time around Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Apr 20 20:13:05 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 02:13:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?3rd_brake_light?= Message-ID: <20100421021305.29211.qmail@server278.com> the extra brake light was extremely noticeable when only a few cars had them. as they became common, i do not notice them near as much anymore. now one that flashes, that gets my attention. hjim From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Apr 20 22:16:12 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 00:16:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net><20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> Message-ID: <35ABCE2F6148499F859376B560234537@LIFEBOOK> Hi Ron, The 3 pointed end set screws that come with the new repro steering wheels (available from all the usual suppliers) have the pointed ends, but are far too long and have Allen socket heads. No problem, but an extra step must be taken. These are 10-32 machine screw threads. Carefully run two 10-32 nuts onto the screws and run them up the screw about half way and carefully lock them together. Carefully mount this into a vise with about 3/16" of thread at the top end exposed. Now take a fine tooth hacksaw or a file and shorten the top end by removing the excess length. Now carefully run a hacksaw across the filed end to create a screw driver slot. Clean up the end with a fine file, remove the nuts and you've now created 3 pointed end grub screws with a screwdriver slot end that can be run into the body of the steering wheel hub and properly lock the trafficator flange. Rich From: Ron Ray Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 9:33 AM To: 'Rich C' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Trafficator Rich, Do you have a source for the pointed replacement screws? Thanks. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:55 PM To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator The set screws need to be pointed, and they need to set immediately in front of the inner beveled flange to lock it in place so it turns with the wheel, and so it can't come out. The conical end allen set screw will not work here. It must be pointed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Ray" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:42 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator > Folks, > > Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub tightened > against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? > Or do the go in front or back of the plate? > > The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering wheel, > does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes > > I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage to get > the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the > slightly conical end work? > > > Thanks. > Ron Ray From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 23:33:36 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 13:33:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting AD for a video game. Message-ID: It explains alot of why I drive what I do... although I have added seat belts! http://i.imgur.com/w7xqD.jpg Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 04:51:51 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:51:51 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel tapered grub screws Message-ID: Guys, don't understand what's happening but I lost all messages relating to the above screws, including the name an address of the guy to whom I promised to search my old metal parts bin. Well, I found the screws but I lost the address, so please mail me... Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Apr 21 06:23:14 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 7:23:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ron Rader on HDT In-Reply-To: <476540.97549.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100421072314.G30XX.1350319.root@ispmxfep14-z01> I saw it also. Didn't seel though. Interesting interior in his BJ8. Never saw one quite like that. ---- HealeyRick wrote: ============= Just saw Ron Rader's smiling face with his gorgeous BRG BJ8 on HD Theater. Worth a watch next time around Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 21 08:24:12 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:24:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Misc Message-ID: <4BCF0A8C.2040004@comcast.net> Off topic--though there's some Healey content in the comments--but noteworthy: http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/19/classic-ac-roadster-gets-a-modern-touch-and-a-six-figure-price/?hpw -- or -- *http://tinyurl.com/yywwb4e * -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 21 09:04:13 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 17:04:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Misc In-Reply-To: <4BCF0A8C.2040004@comcast.net> References: <4BCF0A8C.2040004@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BCF13ED.8030403@chello.nl> Specs are exciting but in my view it is not a thing of beauty, to put it mildly. Kees Oudesluijs NL Bob Spidell wrote: > Off topic--though there's some Healey content in the comments--but > noteworthy: > > http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/19/classic-ac-roadster-gets-a-modern-touch-and-a-six-figure-price/?hpw > > > -- or -- > > *http://tinyurl.com/yywwb4e > > > * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2825 - datum van uitgifte: 04/21/10 08:31:00 From don at anglesey.us Wed Apr 21 09:12:20 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:12:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Guy, Why not? You seem to know plenty about it, point me to some facts, tiny URL's work great. I suggest if you want to improve the looks of your Healey you will need to install some fender flares and a hood scoop and forget about the 3-rd red light. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Guy R Day Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:49 PM To: healey100s at live.com; 'Bob Spidell' Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Don, There is considerable data and research papers if you take the trouble to search for it. I will not be doing it for you. You may find them to be the ugliest thing to place on a vehicle and you don't want one. That is not disputed and putting one on a 100-6 will probably not improve its looks. Guy R Day ps There are no research papers I know of that suggest looking pretty is a reason for using a high level additional brake light. From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Apr 21 09:59:02 2010 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:59:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Third brake are credited with lowering rear collision rates by about 5% http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/regrev/evaluate/808696.html From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Apr 21 10:58:38 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:58:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <4BCDD3C7.9050003@pacbell.net> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <4BCDD3C7.9050003@pacbell.net> Message-ID: There are several Articles within Division 12 of the California Vehicle Code that deal with lighting on vehicles. In a quick glance, my interpretation is that a device that flashes a center mounted red light six times would not be legal in the state of California. I could be wrong. See Articles 3, 5, 7, 8, particularly Article 7, starting at 25250, "Flashing Lights". (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Bill" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 9:18 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light > Bob and List, > > Has anybody checked the legality of a flashing 3rd brake light? If my > ol', med riddled mind serves me, I believe, at least in CA, they're > illegal. Or maybe you just couldn't have the standard brake lights > flashing. That comes to mind from JCTaylor selling them back in the > '50s & '60s. > > Bill Barnett > '53 Red Car From quenty at ntelos.net Wed Apr 21 12:04:17 2010 From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:04:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator In-Reply-To: <35ABCE2F6148499F859376B560234537@LIFEBOOK> References: <023c01cadf51$9634d3f0$c29e7bd0$@net><20100418205023.GH9ZH.42491.imail@eastrmwml33> <000001cadf61$a4c07ae0$ee4170a0$@net> <62E1A27CA56C4F769AD0ACD4662EB239@LIFEBOOK> <000c01cae08e$001192d0$0034b870$@net> <35ABCE2F6148499F859376B560234537@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: <731E2577-66AA-4857-921C-7D04A26A004F@ntelos.net> Or, you can buy them at McMaster- Carr for about 2.00 each. Of course you have to suffer the indignity of using an Allan Wrench. Dave On Apr 21, 2010, at 12:16 AM, Rich C wrote: Hi Ron, The 3 pointed end set screws that come with the new repro steering wheels (available from all the usual suppliers) have the pointed ends, but are far too long and have Allen socket heads. No problem, but an extra step must be taken. These are 10-32 machine screw threads. Carefully run two 10-32 nuts onto the screws and run them up the screw about half way and carefully lock them together. Carefully mount this into a vise with about 3/16" of thread at the top end exposed. Now take a fine tooth hacksaw or a file and shorten the top end by removing the excess length. Now carefully run a hacksaw across the filed end to create a screw driver slot. Clean up the end with a fine file, remove the nuts and you've now created 3 pointed end grub screws with a screwdriver slot end that can be run into the body of the steering wheel hub and properly lock the trafficator flange. Rich From: Ron Ray Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 9:33 AM To: 'Rich C' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Trafficator Rich, Do you have a source for the pointed replacement screws? Thanks. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:55 PM To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator The set screws need to be pointed, and they need to set immediately in front of the inner beveled flange to lock it in place so it turns with the wheel, and so it can't come out. The conical end allen set screw will not work here. It must be pointed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Ray" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:42 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator > Folks, > > Do the three set screws that go through the steering wheel hub > tightened > against the edge of the back plate of the turn signal switch? > Or do the go in front or back of the plate? > > The lower screw hole on my hub, for an original Derringer steering > wheel, > does not appear to be in alignment with the other two holes > > I have two of the original pointed set screws. If somehow I manage > to get > the third hole to work, will a standard allen head set screw with the > slightly conical end work? > > > Thanks. > Ron Ray _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/quenty at ntelos.net From don at anglesey.us Wed Apr 21 12:14:16 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:14:16 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Thanks for the quick info. It would be interesting to know if using a smart phone and texting while driving has increased the rear collision rate higher or lower than 5%. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:59 AM Cc: healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Third brake are credited with lowering rear collision rates by about 5% http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/regrev/evaluate/808696.html _______________________________________________ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 13:09:06 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 12:09:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <4BCDD3C7.9050003@pacbell.net> Message-ID: Read 25251.5 (c) Any stoplamp or supplemental stoplamp required or permitted by Section 24603 may be equipped so as to flash not more than four times within the first four seconds after actuation by application of the brakes. Amended Ch. 410, Stats. 1983. Effective January 1, 1984. Looks like you are OK as long as they don't flash too many times. Rick On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 9:58 AM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett < thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: > There are several Articles within Division 12 of the California Vehicle > Code that deal with lighting on vehicles. In a quick glance, my > interpretation is that a device that flashes a center mounted red light six > times would not be legal in the state of California. I could be wrong. See > Articles 3, 5, 7, 8, particularly Article 7, starting at 25250, "Flashing > Lights". > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From grday at btinternet.com Wed Apr 21 13:26:20 2010 From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:26:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light References: Message-ID: <6BD48585453C4772B0A4DA035E4EF013@user8634b3d69b> Why not? Because it isn't me that needs to be convinced. AND - if you think I want to alter the bodywork of any Healey to look like you want yours - ooooh no thank you! < LOL> Regards, Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don" To: "'Guy R Day'" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Guy, Why not? You seem to know plenty about it, point me to some facts, tiny URL's work great. I suggest if you want to improve the looks of your Healey you will need to install some fender flares and a hood scoop and forget about the 3-rd red light. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Guy R Day Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:49 PM To: healey100s at live.com; 'Bob Spidell' Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Don, There is considerable data and research papers if you take the trouble to search for it. I will not be doing it for you. You may find them to be the ugliest thing to place on a vehicle and you don't want one. That is not disputed and putting one on a 100-6 will probably not improve its looks. Guy R Day ps There are no research papers I know of that suggest looking pretty is a reason for using a high level additional brake light. From bighealey at astound.net Wed Apr 21 14:09:22 2010 From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 13:09:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> Message-ID: <5598E5F56F30480480C6A5151014EA26@JohnSoderling> Yes, the third brake light is better mounted high. However, with our small and antiquated tail/brake lights, a good third brake light on the rear deck is a 300% improvement is brake light visibility. If you want visual proof of the value of a rear deck mounted 3rd brake light, check out the night time photo of Erika's 3rd brake light on John Sim's website at http://www.healey6.com/email%20postings/Third%20Brake%20Light.pdf . Vrooom vrooom, John 100-Six Erika the Red -------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:21 AM To: "AustinHealey List" Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light > Third brake lights are practically only an extra safety item if placed in > the proper position, i.e. high, over the rear window. It has much less > effect when placed low on the rear deck. > They are often positioned on the rear deck of modern cars just to comply > to the rules, not for added safety. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at astound.net From bighealey at astound.net Wed Apr 21 14:38:20 2010 From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 13:38:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3rd brake light- Night time Photo Message-ID: Yes, the third brake light is better mounted high. However, with our small and antiquated tail/brake lights, a good third brake light on the rear deck is a 300% improvement is brake light visibility. If you want visual proof of the value of a rear deck mounted 3rd brake light, check out the night time photo of Erika's 3rd brake light on John Sim's website at http://www.healey6.com/email%20postings/Third%20Brake%20Light.pdf . The photo is at the very bottom of the page. Vrooom vrooom, John 100-Six Erika the Red From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 21 14:44:14 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 16:44:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <5598E5F56F30480480C6A5151014EA26@JohnSoderling> References: <4BCD7229.80305@chello.nl> <5598E5F56F30480480C6A5151014EA26@JohnSoderling> Message-ID: <001701cae193$6853b980$38fb2c80$@net> And you can also see my installation (stolen from John's idea!!!) on my site's Technical page, My Modifications section. I have my third brake light and converted reflectors wired to a mechanical switch and use the pressure switch for the original lights. Wiring diagram and sourcing of parts is there. John's write up is great and like all good things, is copied! A mechanical switch is a great addition especially if you have a soft pedal. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Soderling Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 4:09 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Yes, the third brake light is better mounted high. However, with our small and antiquated tail/brake lights, a good third brake light on the rear deck is a 300% improvement is brake light visibility. If you want visual proof of the value of a rear deck mounted 3rd brake light, check out the night time photo of Erika's 3rd brake light on John Sim's website at http://www.healey6.com/email%20postings/Third%20Brake%20Light.pdf . Vrooom vrooom, John 100-Six Erika the Red From don at anglesey.us Wed Apr 21 14:48:51 2010 From: don at anglesey.us (Don) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:48:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light In-Reply-To: <6BD48585453C4772B0A4DA035E4EF013@user8634b3d69b> Message-ID: Guy, I have no interest in convincing anyone one way or the other as it all comes down to personal preference and I just stated mine nothing more. Here is a link to my Healey and yea, it is exactly how I want it. http://www.justbrits.com/cars/DAngleseyBN4.html Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 1:26 PM To: healey100s at live.com Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3-rd brake light Why not? Because it isn't me that needs to be convinced. AND - if you think I want to alter the bodywork of any Healey to look like you want yours - ooooh no thank you! < LOL> Regards, Guy R Day From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 21 16:41:51 2010 From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:41:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Trip to England - Info Needed Message-ID: <939071.86191.qm@web50003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good afternoon Fellow Listers - - Especially those on the other side of the Pond. I found out this afternoon that I've got a business trip coming up that will put me in Oxford, UK the week of May 16th. If GoogleMaps served me well, that should put me pretty close to Warwick and Abingdon. I would like to see Cape Works, DMH's first workshop and the birthplace of my BN7. I'm hoping someone over there can confirm that. I am also looking for any suggestions on must see places in and around Oxford that might be significant to the Healey enthusiasts. Of course any recommendations on local eateries and watering holes is greatly appreciated. I would also enjoy lifting a pint or two with anyone interested in meeting at a local pub. Feel free to respond off list. Thanks in advance for your help. Cheers, Carlos Cruz From quenty at ntelos.net Wed Apr 21 17:35:12 2010 From: quenty at ntelos.net (Quentin Schweninger) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:35:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator References: <2733EFA7-BEBB-4AC0-8134-FD0E1475843C@ntelos.net> Message-ID: From: Quentin Schweninger Date: April 21, 2010 6:27:17 PM EDT To: Rich C , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator Rich The sizes listed are 3/16, 1/4, and 3/8 long. The thread depth in my original wheel is 3/16. It appears that would be about the right length. The the point is about 3/32 long. I'd measure an original one, or the overall on the too long ones. Dave On Apr 21, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Rich C wrote: I wouldn't mind about the Allan head, it's the length of the set screws that come with the new wheels that are simply too long. When turned all the way down they still protrude from the steering wheel hub about 1/8". My solution allows trimming to proper length and adds a touch of originality and with the socket portion gone, you cut the slot and you can set the screw. Are the Mcmaster-Carr ones short enough? Rich From ggilliam at usol.com Wed Apr 21 22:12:22 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:12:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine technicals Message-ID: <18711642b42ea2a0002265dfa737f97c@usol.com> For the engine experts: I am inspecting the "spare" BJ8 engine I have, and have questions regarding the amount of wear considered acceptable for use without machining. I realize there are no absolute values, just a generalized go, no-go evaluation. I have no idea how many miles were on the engine before I rec'd it. I also don't know it's service history, can't really see if it has been rebuilt or reassembled, but some of the head studs were extremely loose, mostly the first two on the front and rear ends, on the manifolds side of the head. How much cylinder wear is acceptable in terms of bore oversize and eccentricity?...there is very little scoring, some top end ridge. Just for arguments sake, say there is .002" variation from spec. and .001 difference difference front to back and side to side, and the same comparing top of the cyl and the bottom of travel. Would just a honing and new rings be acceptable? I acknowledge that for max reliability, complete machining and rebuild is the way to go, but we can't always have everything we want. What is considered too much wear or scoring?...I don't know how to measure the scoring, perhaps just the drag the fingernail test? I see some "ripple" on the one journal whose cap I have pulled, but don't notice any wear on the bearing surface. As a side question, I see numbers stamped on the rod ends, such as 55...is this weight for balancing? Hope you can understand what I'm trying to explain and ask. Regards, Gordy From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Apr 22 11:49:28 2010 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:49:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas electrics explained .. Message-ID: http://tinyurl.com/27pwshh From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 22 14:09:26 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:09:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity Message-ID: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> I have received only one email through the list today. Is everyone out driving their Healeys? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 22 14:47:36 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:47:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity In-Reply-To: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> Message-ID: <20100422154736.SDOCO.1411889.root@ispmxfep13-z02> Should be, but not----I'm here. tom ---- John Sims wrote: ============= I have received only one email through the list today. Is everyone out driving their Healeys? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Apr 22 15:38:28 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:38:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity In-Reply-To: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> References: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> Message-ID: <0668844F32004282919DEDCEAB175F79@LeonardPCPC> I'm here, John. I just haven't had anything Healey to say today :-( But for those that might be out on the road, "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there" (Lewis Carroll) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'AustinHealey List'" Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:09 PM Subject: [Healeys] List Activity >I have received only one email through the list today. Is everyone out > driving their Healeys? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 15:52:16 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:52:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad Message-ID: found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. May be a simple question but here goes..... does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. The screw heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw driver and brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. Thanks, and Hi John, got your message -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 22 17:28:15 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:28:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 overdrive In-Reply-To: <560F0A3894402B498D801B4A6C784EEC2021E1@cig2003.CommercialInsuranceGroup.local> References: <560F0A3894402B498D801B4A6C784EEC2021E1@cig2003.CommercialInsuranceGroup.local> Message-ID: <8CCB08A9DD985A0-108C-18867@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com> I thought I would forward the question I received from one of our members concerning his overdrive/clutch slipping problem for the mailing list member's input. Please let me know your suggestions & I will pass them along. Gary Hodson The o.d. solenoid that we installed last Tuesday solved my recent problem. The transmission now goes in and out of overdrive....yeah. Thanks for your help. However, I still have my long standing problem of a slight slippage of a clutch or the equivalent. I had previously removed the transmission to replaced the flywheel pressure plate and clutch a few times years ago trying to solve the problem. My next course of action was to remove the overdrive and send it off to be totally rebuilt, but thought I would first try to further diagnosis the problem thinking it could be the overdrive clutch or an incorrect fluid pressure issue, with the fluid pressure problem possibly being solved with the transmission in the car. I called Roger at Hurst Imports who was nice enough to offer me his pressure guage. I could not talk him into working on the overdrive, even out of the car. He did give me some advise which was worth a fortune. He told me that the fluid could be an issue if it was slipping only in overdrive. Since mine is slipping in and out of overdrive, he is 99 percent sure that it is caused by a broken circlip spring (Vicky B part number 14623) in the overdrive. This spring puts a little tension on the (spray clutch?) He said something about rollers run up and lock it???) He indicated that one shop in the past has replaced about five flywheel clutches thinking that this was the problem. I only wasted one new clutch and had another pressure plate rebuilt so I must be doing OK!!!!!!!! I am a visual person and don't fully understand the overdrive unit. I took notes while I was on the telephone, but I am still a little lost. I'm putting what I know down in writing so others in the club who are more knowable than me will have a general idea of what is happening and may be able to assist in replacing the spring/circlip. The tranny needs to be removed and the overdrive unit removed from the tranny. The spring can be replaced in about 30 minutes by a reasonably knowable person (not me). He said to use a hose clamp to assist getting the rollers back in with the spring. I feel lucky that he was able to direct me to the problem which I believed can be solved at a tech session, at least the portion of work done when the tranny/overdrive is out of the car. I probably will be putting off removal of the transmission/overdrive unit from the car for quite a while for I really am not looking forward to removing that heavy hunk of junk again. Perhaps I will do it when I have absolutely nothing else on my agenda. Jim Hager From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 22 17:33:00 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:33:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again Message-ID: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Has anyone tried to use Velcro to secure their armrest for a BT7 Healey. The sewing operation would seem to be very fiddly to me. Not to mention a "hit or miss" operation to get it exactly in the middle . With Velcro it would seem that the pad could be moved around more. I'm just not sure how secure one can get it with Velcro so it stays in place. I was thinking Gorilla glue on the bottom of the pad for one side of the Velcro and trying to stitch the other half of the Velcro to the carpet. Has any one tried this or any other ideas? My pad from Heritage isn't very flexible on the bottom and I'm not sure it would be an easy task to get it to fit to the contour of the trany tunnel with a needle and thread. Mark From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 22 17:59:18 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:59:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity In-Reply-To: <0668844F32004282919DEDCEAB175F79@LeonardPCPC> References: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> <0668844F32004282919DEDCEAB175F79@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <00d601cae277$d2a5d770$77f18650$@net> Sent it because usually I receive 24-30 Healey emails a day and only got one until this latest rash of messages. Guys, send some emails as I am kinda like a Healey junky -- if I dont get my daily ration, I have to get off the computer and do something productive like painting the bathroom in the master bedroom to appease my wife. (the productive reference is my wife's not mine.) John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 5:38 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] List Activity I'm here, John. I just haven't had anything Healey to say today :-( But for those that might be out on the road, "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there" (Lewis Carroll) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'AustinHealey List'" Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:09 PM Subject: [Healeys] List Activity >I have received only one email through the list today. Is everyone out > driving their Healeys? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 19:54:43 2010 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 18:54:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 overdrive In-Reply-To: <8CCB08A9DD985A0-108C-18867@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com> References: <560F0A3894402B498D801B4A6C784EEC2021E1@cig2003.CommercialInsuranceGroup.local> <8CCB08A9DD985A0-108C-18867@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: The way I am reading this, the first paragraph and the second paragraph contradict each other. In the first paragraph there is a slight slippage, in the second it implies that the unit is going in and out of OD. However, if he is saying that the car feels like it has a slipping clutch both in and out of OD, then yes a bad sprag clutch could be the problem. A sprag clutch is a one way clutch. Think of a ratchet that you use with a socket to undo bolts. It freewheels in one direction, and locks up tight in the other direction. This is what a sprag clutch does. It locks up tight in the forward gears so the engine does not cause the brake ring /cone clutch in the OD to slip. The brake ring cone clutch as a very small surface area, and the torque of the engine could easily overpower it. If the sprag clutch is bad, you can get slippage under hard acceleration. It is normal to get slippage under hard acceleration in reverse as the sprag clutch is released. Hope this helps Rick >>However, I still have my long standing problem of a slight slippage of a clutch or the equivalent. I had previously removed the transmission to replaced the flywheel pressure plate and clutch a few times years ago trying to solve the problem. >>He told me that the fluid could be an issue if it was slipping only in overdrive. Since mine is slipping in and out of overdrive, he is 99 percent sure that it is caused by a broken circlip spring (Vicky B part number 14623) in the overdrive. This spring puts a little tension on the (spray clutch?) He said something about rollers run up and lock it???) He indicated that one shop in the past has replaced about five flywheel clutches thinking that this was the problem. From rnbmail at yahoo.com Thu Apr 22 20:19:55 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:19:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List Activity - new ... In-Reply-To: <00d601cae277$d2a5d770$77f18650$@net> Message-ID: <342925.9978.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> OK Junky John, 1. Who know a brand of vinyl adhesive that does NOT come unstuck with time, and in sunlight? 2. Remember the BJ8 spot light bracket design that I did and you kindly put on your site? Just had them made and mounted then to the car - worked out great - no more flapping in the wind fog lamps .... Anyone want pics let me know. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Thu, 4/22/10, John Sims wrote: > From: John Sims > Subject: Re: [Healeys] List Activity > To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" , "'Healey Mail List'" > Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010, 4:59 PM > Sent it because usually I receive > 24-30 Healey emails a day and only got one > until this latest rash of messages. Guys, send some emails > as I am kinda > like a Healey junky -- if I dont get my daily ration, I > have to get off the > computer and do something productive like painting the > bathroom in the > master bedroom to appease my wife. (the productive > reference is my wife's > not mine.) > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 5:38 PM > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] List Activity > > I'm here, John. I just haven't had anything Healey to > say today :-( > > But for those that might be out on the road, "If you don't > know where you > are going, any road will get you there" (Lewis Carroll) > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Sims" > To: "'AustinHealey List'" > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:09 PM > Subject: [Healeys] List Activity > > > >I have received only one email through the list today. > Is everyone out > > driving their Healeys? > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail at yahoo.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 22 20:40:42 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:40:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity In-Reply-To: <00d601cae277$d2a5d770$77f18650$@net> References: <00bc01cae257$b5b32890$211979b0$@net> <0668844F32004282919DEDCEAB175F79@LeonardPCPC> <00d601cae277$d2a5d770$77f18650$@net> Message-ID: <4BD108AA.2070301@justbrits.com> WRONGO, o learned one with poor memory -:) !!! << if I dont get my daily ration, I have to get off the computer a nd do something productive like painting the bathroom in the master bedroom to appease my wife. (the productive reference is my wife's not mine.) >> The "answer" is built into EVERY List Post, John !! Archive: http://www.team.net/archive MUST be "reviewed" -:) !! LOL !!!! From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 22 20:45:31 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 22:45:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again In-Reply-To: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark, Sorry to blow away your glue and Velcro idea, but this series of arm rest simply won't conform to the contour and pull down properly by those methods. That armrest needs to pull down tightly, wrapping over the convex shape, and only sewing will do it. First fit the carpet completely to the gearbox cover and fixed portion of the prop shaft tunnel, and install the snaps. Then you can locate and mark the centre line and the perimeter position where the armrest needs to be located with chalk, noting that the front of the armrest is wider than the back. Remove the carpet from the car and locate the arm rest location. Sew into place making sure it doesn't creep off course as you go. You'll need a thimble to push the needle through and save your fingers. Have fun! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:33 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again > Has anyone tried to use Velcro to secure their armrest for a BT7 Healey. > The > sewing operation > would seem to be very fiddly to me. Not to mention a "hit or miss" > operation to get it exactly in the middle . With Velcro it would seem > that > the pad could be moved around more. I'm just > not sure how secure one can get it with Velcro so it stays in place. I > was > thinking Gorilla glue on the bottom of the pad for one side of the Velcro > and > trying to stitch the other half of the Velcro to the carpet. > > Has any one tried this or any other ideas? > > My pad from Heritage isn't very flexible on the bottom and I'm not sure it > would be an easy task to get it to fit to the contour of the trany tunnel > with > a needle and thread. > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Sept.08 203.jpg] From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 22 21:00:09 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 20:00:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100422195553.01fadb50@pop.att.yahoo.com> Ira, I believe are talking about the tar paper insulation that is glued to the bulkhead behind the heater. I am going to see if I can make it this weekend. Not sure how I am going to cut perfect holes yet but I thought I would try before buying. The holes line up with the holes in the bulkhead and you would have to remove the cables or cut down to the holes to slip it in place if you can even do that with the heater and other items installed. John BT7 At 02:52 PM 4/22/2010 -0700, I Erbs wrote: >found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. >does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? >I Erbs From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 22 20:59:21 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 22:59:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69AE2C3515484D7D95E63137A436C980@LIFEBOOK> Ira, The insulation pieces are heavy "felt paper" or tar paper pieces that glue to the inside surface of the upper bulkhead where all the wiring, hoses and grommets come through. It is above and forward of the heater assembly. This really needs to be installed first before a car commences to be assembled. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 5:52 PM To: "healey help" Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad > found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. > May be a simple question but here goes..... > does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? > Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. The screw > heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw driver > and > brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. > Thanks, and Hi John, got your message > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jul409 033.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jul409 032.jpg] From bighealey at astound.net Thu Apr 22 22:57:48 2010 From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:57:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper Replacement Message-ID: HI, Where is the best source for high quality new bumpers? Are there any that equal OEM? Thanks. Vrooom vrooom, John From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Apr 22 23:26:16 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 06:26:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again In-Reply-To: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <000401cae2a5$7f51d0f0$7df572d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I did it about 10 yrs ago and it's still there. I used broad stick-on Velcro and it worked fine. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: 23 April 2010 00:33 To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again Has anyone tried to use Velcro to secure their armrest for a BT7 Healey. The sewing operation would seem to be very fiddly to me. Not to mention a "hit or miss" operation to get it exactly in the middle . With Velcro it would seem that the pad could be moved around more. I'm just not sure how secure one can get it with Velcro so it stays in place. I was thinking Gorilla glue on the bottom of the pad for one side of the Velcro and trying to stitch the other half of the Velcro to the carpet. Has any one tried this or any other ideas? My pad from Heritage isn't very flexible on the bottom and I'm not sure it would be an easy task to get it to fit to the contour of the trany tunnel with a needle and thread. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From ampole at hotmail.com Fri Apr 23 00:21:21 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 06:21:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20100422195553.01fadb50@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: , <6.2.3.4.2.20100422195553.01fadb50@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John To cut perfect holes buy a set of wad punches. cheers Andy > Not sure how I am going to cut perfect holes yet but I > thought I would try before buying. _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 01:55:18 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 15:55:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper Replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe ahead4healeys / Bob Yule has these. On 4/23/10, John Soderling wrote: > HI, > Where is the best source for high quality new bumpers? Are there any that > equal OEM? Thanks. > Vrooom vrooom, > John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 02:53:07 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 16:53:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. Message-ID: All - I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 23 04:17:35 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 06:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BD173BF.8050300@earthlink.net> And then fit a continental kit for the spare tire? Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Apr 23 05:35:36 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 21:35:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: G'day Well we have found where the beer goes, but what about the petrol? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, 23 April 2010 6:53 PM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank,ever. All - I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 23 06:16:15 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:16:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine technicals In-Reply-To: <18711642b42ea2a0002265dfa737f97c@usol.com> References: <18711642b42ea2a0002265dfa737f97c@usol.com> Message-ID: <77F9021BEB7243688CDE00C4B95619BB@LIFEBOOK> Gordy, Basic rule of thumb is the bores should not vary in taper or diameter more than about .006". Beyond that, the rings simply can't conform reasonably. Any ridge needs to be removed, though I have seen a set of Hastings rings that had a top ring with a stepped groove designed to clear the ridge. Whenever fitting new rings, the bores need to have a light honing to remove any glazing and give the new rings a new surface to break in to. As for scoring, the finger nail test will tell you. The head should be checked for cracks and be made dead level, and with today's fuel, hardened exhaust valve seats should be installed, and of course fresh valve stem seals should go in. Of course as you say, all this is to do a "poor man's" rebuild, and this sort of rebuild is not recommended. This has not taken into consideration any crack testing, big end sizing or balancing, things that are very important. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 12:12 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Engine technicals > For the engine experts: > > I am inspecting the "spare" BJ8 engine I have, and have questions > regarding the amount of wear considered acceptable for use without > machining. I realize there are no absolute values, just a generalized go, > no-go evaluation. I have no idea how many miles were on the engine before > I > rec'd it. I also don't know it's service history, can't really see if it > has been rebuilt or reassembled, but some of the head studs were extremely > loose, mostly the first two on the front and rear ends, on the manifolds > side of the head. > > How much cylinder wear is acceptable in terms of bore oversize and > eccentricity?...there is very little scoring, some top end ridge. > > Just for arguments sake, say there is .002" variation from spec. and .001 > difference difference front to back and side to side, and the same > comparing top of the cyl and the bottom of travel. Would just a honing and > new rings be acceptable? I acknowledge that for max reliability, complete > machining and > rebuild is the way to go, but we can't always have everything > we want. > > What is considered too much wear or scoring?...I don't know how to > measure the scoring, perhaps just the drag the fingernail test? I see some > "ripple" on the one journal whose cap I have pulled, but don't notice any > wear on the bearing surface. > > As a side question, I see numbers stamped on the rod ends, such as > 55...is this weight for balancing? > > Hope you can understand what I'm trying to explain and ask. > > Regards, > > Gordy > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From warthodson at aol.com Fri Apr 23 07:50:25 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:50:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: <4BD173BF.8050300@earthlink.net> References: <4BD173BF.8050300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CCB1030FA0A2AF-1AC8-CC6B@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> Who needs a spare? I don't think it is going very far! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Healey Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2010 5:17 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. And then fit a continental kit for the spare tire? Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From wilkmanracing at aol.com Fri Apr 23 07:58:03 2010 From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:58:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCB10420846A62-1704-BFFC@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Well, at least the guy who did the work got the windshield post color right! ;o) Bill Wilkman BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2010 1:53 am Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. All - I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing at aol.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Apr 23 08:40:47 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:40:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: <8CCB10420846A62-1704-BFFC@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB10420846A62-1704-BFFC@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <010301cae2f2$f71df8a0$e559e9e0$@net> Reminds me of a guy I went to high school with who had a tap on his dash connected to a keg in his trunk. That is, until he got pulled over and offered the cop a beer. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 9:58 AM To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. Well, at least the guy who did the work got the windshield post color right! ;o) Bill Wilkman BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2010 1:53 am Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. All - I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 Alan From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Fri Apr 23 08:57:28 2010 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:57:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List Activity - new ... Message-ID: <58AB1F5490CF4E1D8C1C8D092F935FC5@cardinalhealth.net> > McMaster-Carr vinyl contact adhesive. > > Amber 7507A3 > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#glue/=6savzs > > Made for vinyl, works great. > > Jerry From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 23 09:05:02 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:05:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper Replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <739018C3-1CE4-4437-B264-4954D4E4E902@sbcglobal.net> John, yes we can get some very good quality bumpers, They are the same thickness and weight as the original ones. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 22, 2010, at 9:57 PM, John Soderling wrote: > HI, > Where is the best source for high quality new bumpers? Are there > any that > equal OEM? Thanks. > Vrooom vrooom, > John > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 09:12:15 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 15:12:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: <010301cae2f2$f71df8a0$e559e9e0$@net> Message-ID: <864670585.10904241272035535410.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Cop stole his keg? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA - Reminds me of a guy I went to high school with who had a tap on his dash connected to a keg in his trunk. That is, until he got pulled over and offered the cop a beer. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From tjmorrio at colby.edu Fri Apr 23 09:33:37 2010 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:33:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: Message-ID: On the tar paper under the dash, FWIW. I'm at the point of putting mine in and am taking Dave Nock's suggestion to put Dynamat behind it. Spray glue the tarpaper to the Dynamat after sticking it on. The Dynamat will be hidden this way -- and should look a bit less flashy. Tom 65BJ8 On 4/22/10 5:52 PM, "I Erbs" wrote: > found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. > May be a simple question but here goes..... > does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? > Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. The screw > heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw driver and > brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. > Thanks, and Hi John, got your message From medlabinc at msn.com Fri Apr 23 09:37:32 2010 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:37:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. Message-ID: Also needs rubber all around it looks like, and engine bay detailing. Dick And then fit a continental kit for the spare tire? Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From brunoverstraete at mac.com Fri Apr 23 09:40:33 2010 From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 17:40:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Long shot 100S Message-ID: Hi Listers, I know it is a (very) long shot and big bucks will be involved, but does anyone know about any 100S on the market. A friend of mine is seriously looking for one. Please contact me off list! Thanks a lot and enjoy the weekend weather! Bruno Enjoying it's BJ8, BN1 and Endurance car as much! From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 09:52:59 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:52:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: LOL, hard to imagine what the reserve is? Maybe $500.00? On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 1:53 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From robertlarson at att.net Fri Apr 23 09:58:23 2010 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:58:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: <864670585.10904241272035535410.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <864670585.10904241272035535410.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BD1C39F.7000006@att.net> Play nice now... The proper term is confiscated, for the young mans safety of course. Bob On 4/23/2010 11:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Cop stole his keg? > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > - > > Reminds me of a guy I went to high school with who had a tap on his dash > connected to a keg in his trunk. That is, until he got pulled over and > offered the cop a beer. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Fri Apr 23 10:17:45 2010 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:17:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again References: <000601cae274$25f027e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <86FD9AF963D348D8A51C4DD7AEA8A28E@FRED> After doing the locating process just like Rich says I use a shop that has a "walking foot" sewing machine. They make boat covers and other stuff using heavy canvas. John Snyder > Mark, > > Sorry to blow away your glue and Velcro idea, but this series of arm rest > simply won't conform to the contour and pull down properly by those > methods. > That armrest needs to pull down tightly, wrapping over the convex shape, > and > only sewing will do it. > First fit the carpet completely to the gearbox cover and fixed portion of > the prop shaft tunnel, and install the snaps. Then you can locate and mark > the centre line and the perimeter position where the armrest needs to be > located with chalk, noting that the front of the armrest is wider than the > back. Remove the carpet from the car and locate the arm rest location. Sew > into place making sure it doesn't creep off course as you go. You'll need > a > thimble to push the needle through and save your fingers. Have fun! > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark LaPierre" > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:33 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Armrest Pad again > >> Has anyone tried to use Velcro to secure their armrest for a BT7 Healey. >> The >> sewing operation >> would seem to be very fiddly to me. Not to mention a "hit or miss" >> operation to get it exactly in the middle . With Velcro it would seem >> that >> the pad could be moved around more. I'm just >> not sure how secure one can get it with Velcro so it stays in place. I >> was >> thinking Gorilla glue on the bottom of the pad for one side of the Velcro >> and >> trying to stitch the other half of the Velcro to the carpet. >> >> Has any one tried this or any other ideas? >> >> My pad from Heritage isn't very flexible on the bottom and I'm not sure >> it >> would be an easy task to get it to fit to the contour of the trany tunnel >> with >> a needle and thread. >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > Sept.08 203.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/helyjohn at cablespeed.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Apr 23 10:20:55 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 12:20:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <012701cae300$f42e9880$dc8bc980$@net> Dunno. He is asking for a deposit of 500 bucks and the high bid so far is 258. Four bidders so far. Probably a steal for the few good parts that may come off of it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:53 AM To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. LOL, hard to imagine what the reserve is? Maybe $500.00? On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 1:53 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 23 10:41:04 2010 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:41:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Long shot 100S In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3013B0681@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Bruno, Hope you do not mind, but such requests as yours for your friend drive me crazy. If your friend is an enthusiast and wants to find a 100S for sale he should look around and do some research. Perhaps he has good friends in the round of 100S owners which make things easier. But your request sounds like here is guy, having awful lots of money and looking for some kind of entertainment and toy to spend it. Seems not the right person for a 100S. Just my thoughts. Sorry to be direct. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Bruno Verstraete Gesendet: Freitag, 23. April 2010 17:41 An: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Long shot 100S Hi Listers, I know it is a (very) long shot and big bucks will be involved, but does anyone know about any 100S on the market. A friend of mine is seriously looking for one. Please contact me off list! Thanks a lot and enjoy the weekend weather! Bruno Enjoying it's BJ8, BN1 and Endurance car as much! ___ From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 23 10:53:46 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 16:53:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Good day, eh! I think the keg is for during the resto. When you're nearing completion, you can swap in a petrol tank ... Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > G'day > > Well we have found where the beer goes, but what about the petrol? > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From eyera3 at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 11:01:44 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:01:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: <012701cae300$f42e9880$dc8bc980$@net> References: <012701cae300$f42e9880$dc8bc980$@net> Message-ID: Probably a steal for the few good parts that may come off of it. which parts are those? the really cool new front end or the steering wheel? :) On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 9:20 AM, John Sims wrote: > Dunno. He is asking for a deposit of 500 bucks and the high bid so far is > 258. Four bidders so far. Probably a steal for the few good parts that may > come off of it. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of I Erbs > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:53 AM > To: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol > tank, ever. > > LOL, hard to imagine what the reserve is? Maybe $500.00? > > On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 1:53 AM, Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > > All - > > > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a > gas > > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, > as > > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture > 2: > > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > > > > Alan > > > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 23 13:05:01 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 21:05:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BD1EF5D.8080706@chello.nl> Practical mind, nice engine Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have waited years for this, thankfully someone has finally produced a gas > tank that meets the most exacting AH standards. The price is right too, as > long as you can accept you won't get your $20 deposit back. See picture 2: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593852320 > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2829 - datum van uitgifte: 04/22/10 20:31:00 From al at bighealey.org Fri Apr 23 13:18:38 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 15:18:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001201cae319$c7f23fb0$57d6bf10$@org> Dick: Since you asked... The reason modern cars all have center high mounted stop lights is federal law requires it. See an article on the site for the National Highway Safety Administration. The article begins as follows: "Center High Mounted Stop Lamps (CHMSL) have been standard equipment on all new passenger cars sold in the United States since model year 1986 and all new light trucks since model year 1994, as required by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108. ..." The link to the site is: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/regrev/evaluate/808696.html Or http://tinyurl.com/2b3urad Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dick Matson Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 10:23 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: CHMSL v 1157s Well, a third brake light effort on our old cars is time and money spent not driving. And then again lot's of production cars have them now. Why ? Dick Matson Cashmere, WA ----- Original Message ----- From: Freese, Ken To: HealeyRick ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s All agree?? No, I don't agree. 1157's in the stock location have worked for me since 1968. None of my collisions have been rear enders. I think this third brake light and mechanical brake pedal switch effort is time and money spent not driving. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] CHMSL v 1157s I think we all agree that the standard stop lights on a Healey are an invitation to a rear end collision. I'm of the opinion that no matter how good a bulb you have in the standard location, that there are just too many SUVs, etc that won't see it when you hit the brakes. I'm working on using this mounted on the shroud above the trunk http://tinyurl.com/yyc3ypk that will give me a combo brake light/ turn signal/ running light in the following driver's view. I'll post up a link when I'm done. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/al at bighealey.org From shop at justbrits.com Fri Apr 23 13:25:42 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:25:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Surely the finest Austin Healey replacement petrol tank, ever. In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <4BD1F436.5020003@justbrits.com> << I think the keg is for during the resto. When you're nearing completion, you can swap in a petrol tank ... >> Whilst I like [and somewhat agree with] your idea RD, I HAVE seen "beer kegs" at sanctioned NHRA Events as them seem to be accepted as "Fuel Cells" due to the actual 'design' of kegs -:)-:)-:) !!!! Ed From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Apr 23 17:16:06 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 16:16:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Top 10 rally-bred cars - Auto racing news and features - Motor Sports - Autos - MSN CA Message-ID: <000001cae33a$f3562d80$da028880$@ca> This was in MSN.ca today...mentions top ralley cars of all time..AH included. http://autos.ca.msn.com/motorsports/gallery.aspx?cp-documentid=23818033 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 23 18:38:26 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 08:38:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox Message-ID: All - In the April edition of Octane there's a great article of a very nice 100S. Interestingly, this car was fitted with the centre shift Aston Martin gearbox, from the factory in Warwick... I would have to imagine that was the only instance of this ever happening? This must have made this car one of the best to ever come from the factory... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 00:37:06 2010 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 23:37:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ron Rader on HDT In-Reply-To: <20100421072314.G30XX.1350319.root@ispmxfep14-z01> References: <476540.97549.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <20100421072314.G30XX.1350319.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: when i bought the car it was stock interior. i removed the always dirty tan carpet and installed black carpets to match the top. then i re did the center console by removing everything and smoothing it out. ron rader 1965 BJ8 for sale On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 5:23 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > I saw it also. Didn't seel though. Interesting interior in his BJ8. > Never saw one quite like that. From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Apr 24 01:50:45 2010 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:50:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <14586F702C85492BB04FD041EF123F70@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Alan The David Brown gearbox was a common fitting to many of the early competition and record breaking cars from Warwick. By common I mean 5 to 10 out of all the cars. Both the original 4-cylinder record breaking cars (Endurance and Streamliner) were fitted with David Brown gearboxes. The gearbox was available with both 4 and 5 speed internals, but it has one bad design fault - they leak live a sieve. The reconstructed Endurance car has a 5-speed version and it was completely rebuilt and it still leaked. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Saturday, 24 April 2010 10:38 AM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox All - In the April edition of Octane there's a great article of a very nice 100S. Interestingly, this car was fitted with the centre shift Aston Martin gearbox, from the factory in Warwick... I would have to imagine that was the only instance of this ever happening? This must have made this car one of the best to ever come from the factory... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Apr 24 02:45:23 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 10:45:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <14586F702C85492BB04FD041EF123F70@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <14586F702C85492BB04FD041EF123F70@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <4BD2AFA3.4080006@chello.nl> So it was a proper British construction. Anyway, I think they did introduce leakage to make sure the oil was replaced in due time. Kees Oudesluijs NL Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day Alan > > The David Brown gearbox was a common fitting to many of the early > competition and record breaking cars from Warwick. By common I mean 5 to 10 > out of all the cars. > > Both the original 4-cylinder record breaking cars (Endurance and > Streamliner) were fitted with David Brown gearboxes. > > The gearbox was available with both 4 and 5 speed internals, but it has one > bad design fault - they leak live a sieve. The reconstructed Endurance car > has a 5-speed version and it was completely rebuilt and it still leaked. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Saturday, 24 April 2010 10:38 AM > To: Healey > Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox > > All - > > In the April edition of Octane there's a great article of a very nice 100S. > > Interestingly, this car was fitted with the centre shift Aston Martin > gearbox, from the factory in Warwick... I would have to imagine that was > the only instance of this ever happening? > > This must have made this car one of the best to ever come from the > factory... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2831 - datum van uitgifte: 04/23/10 20:31:00 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 24 05:16:46 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 07:16:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad References: Message-ID: <001601cae39f$a0c43980$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> How do you in tend on cutting all those holes in the gooey Dynamat. Thats gonna take some patience. Sounds like it would give good heat and sound protection though. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Morrione" To: "I Erbs" ; "healey help" Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:33 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad > On the tar paper under the dash, FWIW. I'm at the point of putting mine in > and am taking Dave Nock's suggestion to put Dynamat behind it. Spray glue > the tarpaper to the Dynamat after sticking it on. The Dynamat will be > hidden > this way -- and should look a bit less flashy. > > Tom > 65BJ8 > > > On 4/22/10 5:52 PM, "I Erbs" wrote: > >> found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. >> May be a simple question but here goes..... >> does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? >> Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. The >> screw >> heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw driver >> and >> brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. >> Thanks, and Hi John, got your message > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 24 07:22:48 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:22:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <4BD2AFA3.4080006@chello.nl> References: <14586F702C85492BB04FD041EF123F70@PatrickQuinnPC> <4BD2AFA3.4080006@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BD2F0A8.2050200@comcast.net> And the roads were properly oiled. bs Oudesluys wrote: > So it was a proper British construction. Anyway, I think they did > introduce leakage to make sure the oil was replaced in due time. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: >> G'day Alan >> >> The David Brown gearbox was a common fitting to many of the early >> competition and record breaking cars from Warwick. By common I mean 5 >> to 10 >> out of all the cars. >> >> Both the original 4-cylinder record breaking cars (Endurance and >> Streamliner) were fitted with David Brown gearboxes. >> The gearbox was available with both 4 and 5 speed internals, but it >> has one >> bad design fault - they leak live a sieve. The reconstructed >> Endurance car >> has a 5-speed version and it was completely rebuilt and it still leaked. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 08:23:51 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 07:23:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox Message-ID: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil I Erbs sent from my PDA -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: 'Healey' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox So it was a proper British construction. Anyway, I think they did introduce leakage to make sure the oil was replaced in due time. Kees Oudesluijs NL Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day Alan > > The David Brown gearbox was a common fitting to many of the early > competition and record breaking cars from Warwick. By common I mean 5 to 10 > out of all the cars. > > Both the original 4-cylinder record breaking cars (Endurance and > Streamliner) were fitted with David Brown gearboxes. > > The gearbox was available with both 4 and 5 speed internals, but it has one > bad design fault - they leak live a sieve. The reconstructed Endurance car > has a 5-speed version and it was completely rebuilt and it still leaked. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Saturday, 24 April 2010 10:38 AM > To: Healey > Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox > > All - > > In the April edition of Octane there's a great article of a very nice 100S. > > Interestingly, this car was fitted with the centre shift Aston Martin > gearbox, from the factory in Warwick... I would have to imagine that was > the only instance of this ever happening? > > This must have made this car one of the best to ever come from the > factory... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2831 - datum van uitgifte: 04/23/10 20:31:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sat Apr 24 09:29:30 2010 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:29:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <001601cae39f$a0c43980$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of patience. I've never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and restoration pix of "Andy's Healey" at http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm Tom On 4/24/10 7:16 AM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > How do you in tend on cutting all those holes in the gooey Dynamat. Thats > gonna take some patience. > > Sounds like it would give good heat and sound protection though. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Thomas Morrione" > To: "I Erbs" ; "healey help" > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:33 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad > > >> On the tar paper under the dash, FWIW. I'm at the point of putting mine in >> and am taking Dave Nock's suggestion to put Dynamat behind it. Spray glue >> the tarpaper to the Dynamat after sticking it on. The Dynamat will be >> hidden >> this way -- and should look a bit less flashy. >> >> Tom >> 65BJ8 >> >> >> On 4/22/10 5:52 PM, "I Erbs" wrote: >> >>> found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. >>> May be a simple question but here goes..... >>> does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? >>> Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. The >>> screw >>> heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw driver >>> and >>> brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. >>> Thanks, and Hi John, got your message >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tjmorrio at colby.edu From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Apr 24 09:56:52 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:56:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the French. No oil would have helped seriously to prevent rust. Kees Oudesluijs NL I Erbs wrote: > I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil > > I Erbs > sent from my PDA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Oudesluys > Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM > To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Cc: 'Healey' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox From brunoverstraete at mac.com Sat Apr 24 10:16:02 2010 From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:16:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey 100S with David Brown gearbox References: Message-ID: <6A7BD01C-A6E9-40DE-A3EA-598E6F4BE9AF@mac.com> Begin forwarded message: > From: Bruno Verstraete > Date: 24 Apr 2010 18:13:40 GMT+02:00 > To: "k2hff59076c1004231738j129d61aeya8ec9f76b8e810ee at mail.gmail.com" > > Subject: Healey 100S with David Brown gearbox > > Hi everyone, > It is correct that the early 100S that were used as Factory Racing > cars were ewuipped with DB gearboxes. At that time The BN2 gearbox > was not finished yet. They are strong boxes but need to be fed > plenty of oil. Every hole leaks. The ENdurance car has an original > DB S430 4 speed gearbox and not 5 speed. Only the Streamliner had a > 5speed gearbox. They only made a few and are not around any more. > The S430 is the same box as in some Lagonda cars. In my opinion a > much nicer gearbox as the standard 100S box if only for the > ergonomics of it. > There is an ad in the car magazine of September 1954 whereby David > Brown congratulates Team Healey with their records. > Happy healeying, > Enjoy the shifting! > Bruno Verstraete From amalin at mac.com Sat Apr 24 10:26:26 2010 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 12:26:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> <4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> Message-ID: <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> Kees, I think Erbs comment on leaking oil preventing rust was a joke and should not to be taken seriously. Al Malin On Apr 24, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the French. No oil would have helped seriously to prevent rust. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > I Erbs wrote: >> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil >> >> I Erbs >> sent from my PDA >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Oudesluys >> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM >> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn >> Cc: 'Healey' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Apr 24 10:58:32 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:58:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> <4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> Message-ID: <4BD32338.4020903@chello.nl> Neither should my comment. Slalnte, Kees Oudesluijs Al Malin wrote: > Kees, > > I think Erbs comment on leaking oil preventing rust was a joke and should not > to be taken seriously. > > Al Malin > > > > On Apr 24, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > >> Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as >> > quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the French. No oil > would have helped seriously to prevent rust. > >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> I Erbs wrote: >> >>> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil >>> >>> I Erbs >>> sent from my PDA >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Oudesluys >>> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM >>> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn >>> Cc: 'Healey' >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2832 - datum van uitgifte: 04/24/10 08:31:00 From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Apr 24 11:00:08 2010 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 12:00:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com><4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> Message-ID: <5665074F5F954401980BF799125F281F@GregPC> I think Kees's statement was a joke and not to be take seriously.....although I would disagree with him as many Healeys and other old cars that are literally roted away around the edges have good metal around the drivetrain area due to the thick layer of greasy gunk that forms a protective barrier against all elements! Greg Lemon > Kees, > > I think Erbs comment on leaking oil preventing rust was a joke and should > not > to be taken seriously. > > Al Malin > > > > On Apr 24, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as > quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the French. No > oil > would have helped seriously to prevent rust. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> I Erbs wrote: >>> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil >>> >>> I Erbs >>> sent from my PDA >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Oudesluys >>> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM >>> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn >>> Cc: 'Healey' >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Apr 24 11:32:12 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 19:32:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <5665074F5F954401980BF799125F281F@GregPC> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com><4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> <5665074F5F954401980BF799125F281F@GregPC> Message-ID: <4BD32B1C.2050102@chello.nl> Problem is that the area around the drive train will not hold a full car together. It is probably not such an issue around where you live, but here in the NL the main reason a classic car is a goner it is because of corrosion. Luckily in the last 20 years or so the rust proofing by the manufacturers has improved considerably, making twenty year old cars no exception anymore. In the 50's, 60's, 70's and early 80's it was not uncommon that a car rusted through within 3-5 years showing serious rot, holes and bubbles and was scrapped, . Kees Oudesluijs Greg Lemon wrote: > I think Kees's statement was a joke and not to be take > seriously.....although I would disagree with him as many Healeys and > other old cars that are literally roted away around the edges have > good metal around the drivetrain area due to the thick layer of greasy > gunk that forms a protective barrier against all elements! > > Greg Lemon > > > >> Kees, >> >> I think Erbs comment on leaking oil preventing rust was a joke and >> should not >> to be taken seriously. >> >> Al Malin >> >> >> >> On Apr 24, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> >>> Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as >> quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the >> French. No oil >> would have helped seriously to prevent rust. >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> NL >>> >>> I Erbs wrote: >>>> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil >>>> >>>> I Erbs >>>> sent from my PDA >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Oudesluys >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM >>>> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn >>>> Cc: 'Healey' >>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2832 - datum van uitgifte: 04/24/10 08:31:00 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 11:39:01 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 10:39:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox In-Reply-To: <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> References: <4bd2fef8.0d30720a.7d29.ffffa95a@mx.google.com> <4BD314C4.8020801@chello.nl> <5F569BFC-8501-4A74-AC09-32B5C4930942@mac.com> Message-ID: all jokes and comments taken in the spirit of humor. The fact is mild st On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 9:26 AM, Al Malin wrote:eel and wet climate added to bi-metal situations is a classic formula fro built in obsolescence. It takes us to hold back the Lucas magic smoke and rust devils. Cheers ;) Ira > Kees, > > I think Erbs comment on leaking oil preventing rust was a joke and should > not > to be taken seriously. > > Al Malin > > > > On Apr 24, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > > Don't be silly, they made every effort to make their cars rot away as > quickly as possible, only to be beaten by the Italians and the French. No > oil > would have helped seriously to prevent rust. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > NL > > > > I Erbs wrote: > >> I thought it was to reduce rusting by coating everything in oil > >> > >> I Erbs > >> sent from my PDA > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Oudesluys > >> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:45 AM > >> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > >> Cc: 'Healey' > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100S with Aston Martin Gearbox > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jobu53 at hotmail.com Sat Apr 24 12:15:23 2010 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan Smither) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:15:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedo Update Message-ID: I reported last weekend that my speedo quit working after a 400 mile rally here in AZ. After taking everything apart the guage worked fine with the cable chucked up in a reversible drill. The washer was missing in the angle drive. So I bought a new angle drive, washer and cable. Put it all back together and it works perfectly. Missing washer caused the angle drive to get stuck. It did loosen up with a little oil but I thought I better replace. Special thanks to all who gave their suggestions and especially Rich Chrysler who helped me with this project. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 Fountain Hills, AZ People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From 55healey at comcast.net Sat Apr 24 12:18:53 2010 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:18:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F241431-1939-4502-8DC9-6C9982DA1985@comcast.net> A good sharp exacto knife works well once it's in place, just carve around the inside of the edge of the hole. Rob On Apr 24, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Thomas Morrione wrote: > I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole > punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of > patience. I've > never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and > restoration > pix of "Andy's Healey" at > > http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm > > Tom > > On 4/24/10 7:16 AM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > >> How do you in tend on cutting all those holes in the gooey >> Dynamat. Thats >> gonna take some patience. >> >> Sounds like it would give good heat and sound protection though. >> >> Mark From rnbmail at yahoo.com Sat Apr 24 12:54:04 2010 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:54:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 7 inch Marchal spot lamps intall - final pics and dwgs / Sims. Message-ID: <350315.58809.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Listers, Regarding the "wobble free" 7 inch Marchal spot lamps intallation for the BJ8 I have just completed the install using the brackets that I designed and John Sims kindly posted on his web site a while back. As pics are a hassle via this list, John has again agreed to also post the install pics on his web site. Several of you have asked for them already, and I will send them directly - about 5MB. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sat Apr 24 14:56:52 2010 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:56:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <4F241431-1939-4502-8DC9-6C9982DA1985@comcast.net> Message-ID: Rob, Many thanks for the tip. Especially helpful since likely not to have all right hole punch sizes. Tom On 4/24/10 2:18 PM, "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > A good sharp exacto knife works well once it's in place, just carve > around the inside of the edge of the hole. > > Rob > > On Apr 24, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Thomas Morrione wrote: > >> I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole >> punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of >> patience. I've >> never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and >> restoration >> pix of "Andy's Healey" at >> >> http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm >> >> Tom >> >> On 4/24/10 7:16 AM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: >> >>> How do you in tend on cutting all those holes in the gooey >>> Dynamat. Thats >>> gonna take some patience. >>> >>> Sounds like it would give good heat and sound protection though. >>> >>> Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tjmorrio at colby.edu From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Apr 24 15:43:57 2010 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:43:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8CCB20E60AA5283-18AC-4514@webmail-d001.sysops.aol.com> Tom One thing with cutting the holes with a knife. If a grommet has to be inserted in the hole in the firewall the extra thickness of the tar paper/felt may make it difficult to fit the grommet. Original cutouts were over sized. Some holes are in the tar paper just to clear the welded nuts on the back of the firewall. I found it just as easy to make a paper template and then cut or punch the holes using it as a guide on the tar paper. All the best. Aloha Perry Tom wrote: Rob, Many thanks for the tip. Especially helpful since likely not to have all right hole punch sizes. Tom On 4/24/10 2:18 PM, "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > A good sharp exacto knife works well once it's in place, just carve > around the inside of the edge of the hole. > > Rob > > On Apr 24, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Thomas Morrione wrote: > >> I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole >> punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of >> patience. I've >> never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and >> restoration >> pix of "Andy's Healey" at >> >> http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm >> >> Tom From gbrierton at hotmail.com Sat Apr 24 18:19:53 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 20:19:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques Message-ID: I am interested in having a number of the "old fashioned" (1" x 3") dash plaques reproduced. By that I mean, about 30 dash plaques, each one different, one or two copies of each. Any suggestion? GaryB AHCA Prez From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 20:52:42 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 21:52:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601cae422$61fcd120$25f67360$@com> Gary, As a former Midwest Region Pres., I am a little ashamed of you. Rallye Productions in Waukesha, WI http://www.rallyeproductions.com/ has been the only place to get dash plaques during my 30 years in the club. I am not sure what their pricing would be for oneseys and twoseys, but they can do anything. You're not going to put these on the outside of the Silver Bullet are you? Hope you are well. Looking forward to seeing you at Conclave. Neil Anderson Midwest Region -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gary brierton Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques I am interested in having a number of the "old fashioned" (1" x 3") dash plaques reproduced. By that I mean, about 30 dash plaques, each one different, one or two copies of each. Any suggestion? GaryB AHCA Prez _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 21:05:22 2010 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 22:05:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001d01cae424$26f3ade0$74db09a0$@com> To clarify, Gary was a former Midwest Region President and I was pulling his leg. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gary brierton Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques I am interested in having a number of the "old fashioned" (1" x 3") dash plaques reproduced. By that I mean, about 30 dash plaques, each one different, one or two copies of each. Any suggestion? GaryB AHCA Prez _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From gbrierton at hotmail.com Sun Apr 25 06:02:07 2010 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 08:02:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques In-Reply-To: <001d01cae424$26f3ade0$74db09a0$@com> References: <001d01cae424$26f3ade0$74db09a0$@com> Message-ID: Thanks, Neil. I'll give them a hollar. See you in Galena. GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "Neil Anderson" Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 11:05 PM To: "'gary brierton'" ; Subject: RE: [Healeys] dash plaques > To clarify, Gary was a former Midwest Region President and I was pulling > his > leg. > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of gary brierton > Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] dash plaques > > I am interested in having a number of the "old fashioned" (1" x 3") dash > plaques reproduced. By that I mean, about 30 dash plaques, each one > different, one or two copies of each. > Any suggestion? > GaryB > AHCA Prez > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From billunc at gmail.com Sun Apr 25 06:50:45 2010 From: billunc at gmail.com (Bill B) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 08:50:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car Message-ID: hello fellow Healey fans: looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know best regards Bill browning Charlotte cell: 704-408-2711 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Apr 25 07:40:26 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:40:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <56508E10123B4F94BA3FD044E2B880E6@oscar> Call Monte at 505-228-0420 in Abq. NM he has a '65 that has been stored since the 90's some minor rust and patina issues I'm sure. Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill B Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 6:51 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car hello fellow Healey fans: looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know best regards Bill browning Charlotte cell: 704-408-2711 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From geatros at shaw.ca Sun Apr 25 07:52:34 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 06:52:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> Hi Bill, There a BJ8 project in pieces for sale for $7500 CAD in Montreal Canada .. Google Kijiji Montreal should find it... Good Deal for $7500 Happy to help ..... Cheers Kenny Geatros Vancouver BC On 25-Apr-10, at 5:50 AM, Bill B wrote: > hello fellow Healey fans: > looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know > > best regards > Bill browning > Charlotte > cell: 704-408-2711 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > geatros at shaw.ca From willig at wtnet.de Sun Apr 25 08:41:58 2010 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:41:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fasteners for the 100's armrest Message-ID: <000901cae485$75ae4920$610adb60$@de> Anybody needs the front Tenax fasteners (the ones that are fixed to the carpet-NOT to the Tunnel)? They are not supplied in any kit and I think they are a bit hard to find. I just bought a bag of those, and I am willing to give some away for free to list members. I am just asking for the postage from Germany to your place. Regards Thomas Willig From caddi5 at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 09:25:12 2010 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 15:25:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Horn color In-Reply-To: <370940027.16857741272209100734.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <703320288.16857791272209112725.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello, does anyone know of an off the shelf, correct color paint for the horns on a 1958 bn4...........hf 1748 ??..............thanks Mitch From MBran89793 at aol.com Sun Apr 25 10:37:29 2010 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:37:29 EDT Subject: [Healeys] List Activity Message-ID: <4cf51.4b34891d.3905c9c9@aol.com> Well, speaking for myself and 19 other local Healey owners, we drove our cars to a local British Motor Classic Show on Davis Islands (Tampa) yesterday. It was rather hot since it was at the airport and limited shade. Yes several of these are "Listers." M.S. Brantley, Jr. BJ8-Blackie HBJ8L/34943 From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sun Apr 25 10:44:22 2010 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:44:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <8CCB20E60AA5283-18AC-4514@webmail-d001.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Perry, Thanks for the warning. I'll attend to the hole sizes. I noticed the captive nuts when the old tar paper came out. Somewhat related question -- might it be possible to clean up already painted metal and use something like JB Weld (carefully) to affix captive nuts where ones were left off after replacing sheet metal? I have new foot wells that the fabrication person forgot to weld nuts for the asbestos insulation to. Or should I weld and repaint? Tom On 4/24/10 5:43 PM, "healeyguy at aol.com" wrote: > Tom > One thing with cutting the holes with a knife. If a grommet has to be > inserted in the hole in the firewall the extra thickness of the tar > paper/felt may make it difficult to fit the grommet. Original cutouts > were over sized. Some holes are in the tar paper just to clear the > welded nuts on the back of the firewall. I found it just as easy to > make a paper template and then cut or punch the holes using it as a > guide on the tar paper. All the best. > Aloha > Perry > > Tom wrote: > > Rob, > > Many thanks for the tip. Especially helpful since likely not to have all > right hole punch sizes. > Tom > > > On 4/24/10 2:18 PM, "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > >> A good sharp exacto knife works well once it's in place, just carve >> around the inside of the edge of the hole. >> >> Rob >> >> On Apr 24, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Thomas Morrione wrote: >> >>> I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole >>> punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of >>> patience. I've >>> never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and >>> restoration >>> pix of "Andy's Healey" at >>> >>> http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm >>> >>> Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tjmorrio at colby.edu From bj7ah at acanac.net Sun Apr 25 11:01:59 2010 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 13:01:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car In-Reply-To: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> References: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <6DBA1FA19FD14712B4919C5C213D4418@robltPC> If you look close at the frame It is either an early bj8 or a Bj7 as there is no dip in the frame at the rear. Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Geatros" Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:52 AM To: "Bill B" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car > Hi Bill, > There a BJ8 project in pieces for sale for $7500 CAD in Montreal Canada > .. Google Kijiji Montreal should find it... Good Deal for $7500 > Happy to help ..... > Cheers > Kenny Geatros > Vancouver BC > > > > On 25-Apr-10, at 5:50 AM, Bill B wrote: > >> hello fellow Healey fans: >> looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know >> >> best regards >> Bill browning >> Charlotte >> cell: 704-408-2711 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> geatros at shaw.ca > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah at acanac.net From healeyron at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 11:11:39 2010 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 10:11:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car In-Reply-To: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> References: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <997254.71559.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Try this. http://tinyurl.com/2gyfncr ________________________________ From: Geatros To: Bill B Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, April 25, 2010 9:52:34 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car Hi Bill, There a BJ8 project in pieces for sale for $7500 CAD in Montreal Canada .. Google Kijiji Montreal should find it... Good Deal for $7500 Happy to help ..... Cheers Kenny Geatros Vancouver BC On 25-Apr-10, at 5:50 AM, Bill B wrote: > hello fellow Healey fans: > looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know > > best regards > Bill browning > Charlotte > cell: 704-408-2711 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/geatros at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From geatros at shaw.ca Sun Apr 25 11:14:29 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 10:14:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car In-Reply-To: <6DBA1FA19FD14712B4919C5C213D4418@robltPC> References: <7C27AEEE-6463-47C5-AD43-289982BA000C@shaw.ca> <6DBA1FA19FD14712B4919C5C213D4418@robltPC> Message-ID: The seller said it was a phase one BJ8 only made around 1300 cars cheers Kennty On 25-Apr-10, at 10:01 AM, Heal;ey wrote: > If you look close at the frame It is either an early bj8 or a Bj7 > as there is no dip in the frame at the rear. > > Bob 1963 BJ7 > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Geatros" > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 9:52 AM > To: "Bill B" > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] looking for bj8 project car > >> Hi Bill, >> There a BJ8 project in pieces for sale for $7500 CAD in Montreal >> Canada .. Google Kijiji Montreal should find it... Good Deal for >> $7500 >> Happy to help ..... >> Cheers >> Kenny Geatros >> Vancouver BC >> >> >> >> On 25-Apr-10, at 5:50 AM, Bill B wrote: >> >>> hello fellow Healey fans: >>> looking for a bj8 project car, can be in pieces, please let me know >>> >>> best regards >>> Bill browning >>> Charlotte >>> cell: 704-408-2711 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >>> healeys/ geatros at shaw.ca >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> bj7ah at acanac.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 25 12:33:04 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 11:33:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: References: <8CCB20E60AA5283-18AC-4514@webmail-d001.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100425112732.01ffe078@pop.att.yahoo.com> The purpose of a captive nut is to facilitate assembly when the nut cannot be accessed or it is more convenient to tighten the bolt without using a spanner. JB weld might be adequate to hold the nut while tightening the screw; at worst you might need someone to hold the spanner or rig it up so the spanner will not move whilst tightening the screw by yourself. John At 12:44 PM 4/25/2010 -0400, Thomas Morrione wrote: >Somewhat related question -- might it be possible to clean up already >painted metal and use something like JB Weld (carefully) to affix captive >nuts where ones were left off after replacing sheet metal? I have new foot > >Tom From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 25 12:48:43 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 20:48:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BD48E8B.40408@chello.nl> You may get away with gluing the nuts to the bare metal, but make sure you use plenty of copper grease when you fit the bolts. However there is no guarantee. It is safer though to weld the nuts with 2 shots of the Mig welder and repaint. Kees Oudesluijs NL Thomas Morrione wrote: > Perry, > Thanks for the warning. I'll attend to the hole sizes. I noticed the captive > nuts when the old tar paper came out. > > Somewhat related question -- might it be possible to clean up already > painted metal and use something like JB Weld (carefully) to affix captive > nuts where ones were left off after replacing sheet metal? I have new foot > wells that the fabrication person forgot to weld nuts for the asbestos > insulation to. Or should I weld and repaint? > > Tom > > > On 4/24/10 5:43 PM, "healeyguy at aol.com" wrote: > > >> Tom >> One thing with cutting the holes with a knife. If a grommet has to be >> inserted in the hole in the firewall the extra thickness of the tar >> paper/felt may make it difficult to fit the grommet. Original cutouts >> were over sized. Some holes are in the tar paper just to clear the >> welded nuts on the back of the firewall. I found it just as easy to >> make a paper template and then cut or punch the holes using it as a >> guide on the tar paper. All the best. >> Aloha >> Perry >> >> Tom wrote: >> >> Rob, >> >> Many thanks for the tip. Especially helpful since likely not to have all >> right hole punch sizes. >> Tom >> >> >> On 4/24/10 2:18 PM, "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: >> >> >>> A good sharp exacto knife works well once it's in place, just carve >>> around the inside of the edge of the hole. >>> >>> Rob >>> >>> On Apr 24, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Thomas Morrione wrote: >>> >>> >>>> I hope that a friend in an art supply store's right saying paper hole >>>> punches he has will work -- if not, you're right -- lot's of >>>> patience. I've >>>> never worked with Dynamat before. Am inspired by Dynamat use and >>>> restoration >>>> pix of "Andy's Healey" at >>>> >>>> http://www.austin-healey3000.com/interior.htm >>>> >>>> Tom >>>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tjmorrio at colby.edu >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2834 - datum van uitgifte: 04/25/10 08:31:00 From pyoas at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 14:04:55 2010 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 13:04:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad Message-ID: <828019.67993.qm@web112518.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Tom, I received my Jule Frame and it required me to put in my own "captive nuts". After tossing around a few ideas I came up with the following solution: I purchased 10/32 T-nuts and flattened their barbs. I drilled the holes and the drill size I used allowed for a very tight fit. It was tight enough that I didn't need to have someone assist me in installing them. I did this for the insulation panels I installed because it gave me a near flat profile so I wouldn't have bumps under the carpet. I plan to silicone seal the T-nuts to insure water tightness. I have pictures but can't post them on this forum so let me know if you would like to see the results? Patrick '67 BJ8-Metallic Golden Beige/Red Perry, Thanks for the warning. I'll attend to the hole sizes. I noticed the captive nuts when the old tar paper came out. Somewhat related question -- might it be possible to clean up already painted metal and use something like JB Weld (carefully) to affix captive nuts where ones were left off after replacing sheet metal? I have new foot wells that the fabrication person forgot to weld nuts for the asbestos insulation to. Or should I weld and repaint? Tom From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sun Apr 25 14:26:52 2010 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:26:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <828019.67993.qm@web112518.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Patrick, Your fix really sounds doable. I think I'm going to give it a try your way. I'd like to see the bolt heads on the flat washers holding the insulation when all's done -- as with the original look and this will allow it. (I was thinking of drilling and putting bolts through from the inside -- with heads glued.) I've got a Jule frame as well. Just starting assembly of rear end, springs, front end etc. Given your experience, anything else I might run into with the frame? Thanks, Tom On 4/25/10 4:04 PM, "Patrick Yoas" wrote: > Tom, > I received my Jule Frame and it required me to put in my own "captive nuts". > After tossing around a few ideas I came up with the following solution: > I purchased 10/32 T-nuts and flattened their barbs. I drilled the holes and > the drill size I used allowed for a very tight fit. It was tight enough that I > didn't need to have someone assist me in installing them. I did this for the > insulation panels I installed because it gave me a near flat profile so I > wouldn't have bumps under the carpet. I plan to silicone seal the T-nuts to > insure water tightness. I have pictures but can't post them on this forum so > let me know if you would like to see the results? > Patrick > '67 BJ8-Metallic Golden Beige/Red From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 25 15:16:22 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:16:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <828019.67993.qm@web112518.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <828019.67993.qm@web112518.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01f101cae4bc$8ef78090$ace681b0$@net> You can now find this complete with photos in the "Body" section of the Technical page on my site. Thanks, Patrick. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick Yoas Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 4:05 PM To: Healey Forum Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad Tom, I received my Jule Frame and it required me to put in my own "captive nuts". After tossing around a few ideas I came up with the following solution: I purchased 10/32 T-nuts and flattened their barbs. I drilled the holes and the drill size I used allowed for a very tight fit. It was tight enough that I didn't need to have someone assist me in installing them. I did this for the insulation panels I installed because it gave me a near flat profile so I wouldn't have bumps under the carpet. I plan to silicone seal the T-nuts to insure water tightness. I have pictures but can't post them on this forum so let me know if you would like to see the results? Patrick '67 BJ8-Metallic Golden Beige/Red From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 17:19:41 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:19:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Baby Steps Message-ID: <291913.21675.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> For those of you following along on the Nasty Boy build, I'm back at it. (Traditionalists avert your eyes!) Did some pedal box mods today. Check out the link following my sig. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From linwoodrose at mac.com Sun Apr 25 18:29:32 2010 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 20:29:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Baby Steps In-Reply-To: <291913.21675.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <291913.21675.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hah! Those sheet metal screws are going to be tough on the right ankle don't ya think! Glad to see that you are back at it, Rick. Lin 1960 BT7 The Bloody Beast 1959 AN5 Bugeye 1964 Jag MKII On Apr 25, 2010, at 7:19 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > For those of you following along on the Nasty Boy build, I'm back at it. > (Traditionalists avert your eyes!) Did some pedal box mods today. Check out > the link following my sig. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 19:05:20 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 18:05:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Baby Steps Message-ID: <864667.88350.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks, Lin! The sheet metal screws are on the to-do list. I'm finding out all the engine swap maxims are true. Like, the swap is the easy part, the details are the killer. And everything you change leads to more changes down the line. Having a ball, though. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 4/25/10, Linwood H Rose wrote: From: Linwood H Rose Subject: Re: [Healeys] Baby Steps To: "HealeyRick" Cc: "Ed" , healeys at autox.team.net, "Pat McMahon" , modifiedhealeys at yahoogroups.com, "tim moran" , spridgets at autox.team.net, "David Townsend" Date: Sunday, April 25, 2010, 8:29 PM Hah! Those sheet metal screws are going to be tough on the right ankle don't ya think! Glad to see that you are back at it, Rick. Lin 1960 BT7 The Bloody Beast 1959 AN5 Bugeye 1964 Jag MKII On Apr 25, 2010, at 7:19 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > For those of you following along on the Nasty Boy build, I'm back at it. > (Traditionalists avert your eyes!) Did some pedal box mods today. Check out > the link following my sig. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 09:02:14 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:02:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad In-Reply-To: <001601cae39f$a0c43980$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001601cae39f$a0c43980$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <24F05D70-D307-48D7-A2C7-228ED88B8318@sbcglobal.net> We do this al the time. We use an assortment of hole punches cuts with out a problem. Also works great. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 24, 2010, at 4:16 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote: > How do you in tend on cutting all those holes in the gooey > Dynamat. Thats gonna take some patience. > > Sounds like it would give good heat and sound protection though. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Morrione" > > To: "I Erbs" ; "healey help" > > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:33 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] under dash insulation pad > > >> On the tar paper under the dash, FWIW. I'm at the point of putting >> mine in >> and am taking Dave Nock's suggestion to put Dynamat behind it. >> Spray glue >> the tarpaper to the Dynamat after sticking it on. The Dynamat will >> be hidden >> this way -- and should look a bit less flashy. >> >> Tom >> 65BJ8 >> >> >> On 4/22/10 5:52 PM, "I Erbs" wrote: >> >>> found on page 31 Nocks hard to find parts. >>> May be a simple question but here goes..... >>> does this fit behind or above the heater assembly? >>> Hard to tell just by looking/ The heater is just not coming out. >>> The screw >>> heads wii not release. have tried heat, anti-seize, hammer screw >>> driver and >>> brute force. Do not want to rip off screw heads. >>> Thanks, and Hi John, got your message >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 09:11:55 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:11:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Horn color In-Reply-To: <703320288.16857791272209112725.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <703320288.16857791272209112725.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CFE9FFE-1DA3-4276-98DD-29436782E45A@sbcglobal.net> We use a paint that is very close to original. Dupli Color seattle silver #8800957 David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 25, 2010, at 8:25 AM, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: > Hello, > does anyone know of an off the shelf, correct color paint for the > horns on a 1958 bn4...........hf 1748 ??..............thanks Mitch > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From pieters at pt.lu Mon Apr 26 09:58:34 2010 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:58:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay Message-ID: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> Ebay item number 110523321977 . It speaks for itself really. From pryner at verizon.net Mon Apr 26 10:22:16 2010 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:22:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> Message-ID: Sorry, the number didn't work for me Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Healey forum" Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay > Ebay item number 110523321977 . It speaks for itself really. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pryner at verizon.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Apr 26 10:32:22 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:32:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> Message-ID: <003201cae55e$0c7e97f0$257bc7d0$@net> When you get the item not available notice, one of the options is to view the item on e bay Germany. Click on that and you will see it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Ryner Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:22 PM To: Pieter and Linda; Healey forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replica on ebay Sorry, the number didn't work for me Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Healey forum" Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay > Ebay item number 110523321977 . It speaks for itself really. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pryner at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From ahstc at live.com Mon Apr 26 10:44:23 2010 From: ahstc at live.com (ahstc at live.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:44:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <003201cae55e$0c7e97f0$257bc7d0$@net> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> <003201cae55e$0c7e97f0$257bc7d0$@net> Message-ID: Item number: 120557812655 Item condition: Used Sells to: Worldwide 1962 Austin Healey Other Saxon ONE OF A KIND!!! 225HP MOTOR EXCEL COND SAXON REPLICA First glance it looks convincing, proportions look strange but you begin to think it's the photo's/ Only after looking closer do you begin to see that's its not a re-engined '62 . Ray -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Sims" Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:32 PM To: "'Peter Ryner'" ; "'Pieter and Linda'" ; "'Healey forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replica on ebay > When you get the item not available notice, one of the options is to view > the item on e bay Germany. Click on that and you will see it. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Peter Ryner > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:22 PM > To: Pieter and Linda; Healey forum > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replica on ebay > > Sorry, the number didn't work for me > Pete > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Healey forum" > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 11:58 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay > > >> Ebay item number 110523321977 . It speaks for itself really. >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pryner at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahstc at live.com From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Apr 26 11:10:02 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:10:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Request_for_dimension_-_rear_axle_rubber?= =?iso-8859-1?q?_bump?= Message-ID: <20100426171002.14341.qmail@hoster902.com> Could someone please tell me the height of the rubber axle buffer on the pre-Mark III axle, Moss PN 675-490? Thanks in advance. -- Steve Gerow BN6 From rjswain at hotmail.com Mon Apr 26 13:14:39 2010 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:14:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Request for dimension - rear axle rubber bump In-Reply-To: <20100426171002.14341.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20100426171002.14341.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: Steve I have a couple of rubber buffers from a parted out '58 BN4 (a fellow parted it out, I got a bunch of unsaleable parts). I presume you want the height from the top of the axle to the top of the buffer (not what wraps down around the axle). That dimension is a nominal 3". If you need something else let me know - the buffers are just sitting there, unencumbered by being attached to an axle. Rick'59 BN4 > Could someone please tell me the height of the rubber axle buffer on the pre-Mark III axle, Moss PN 675-490? > > Thanks in advance. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > BN6 _________________________________________________________________ Live connected. Get Hotmail & Messenger on your phone. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724462 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Apr 26 13:34:16 2010 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:34:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Request_for_dimension_-_rear_axle_rubber?= =?iso-8859-1?q?_bump?= Message-ID: <20100426193416.26255.qmail@hoster902.com> Rick, That's exactly right - from the top of the axle to the top of the buffer - thanks. -- Steve > -------Original Message------- > From: Rick Swain > To: steveg at abrazosdata.com, Healey List > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Request for dimension - rear axle rubber bump > Sent: Apr 26 '10 11:14 > > Steve > > > I have a couple of rubber buffers from a parted out '58 BN4 (a fellow > parted it out, I got a bunch of unsaleable parts). I presume you want the > height from the top of the axle to the top of the buffer (not what wraps > down around the axle). That dimension is a nominal 3". If you need > something else let me know - the buffers are just sitting there, > unencumbered by being attached to an axle. > > > Rick > '59 BN4 > > > Could someone please tell me the height of the rubber axle buffer on the > pre-Mark III axle, Moss PN 675-490? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > -- > > Steve Gerow > > BN6 > > > -------------------- > Got a phone? [LINK: http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724457] Get Hotmail & > Messenger for mobile! From rcobb at earthlink.net Mon Apr 26 15:46:40 2010 From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 16:46:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] trunk (boot) kits Message-ID: <4BD609C0.2050906@earthlink.net> On my couple-year-old BJ8 restoration, I'm needing to replace a couple pieces of the trunk liner due to battery acid damage, though it won't be necessary to replace the entire set. Consequently, I'm looking to get a good-appearing kit for a reasonable price. Are there any recommendations regarding Moss or Victoria British products or another source? Thanks. Bob From warthodson at aol.com Mon Apr 26 19:05:55 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 21:05:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure flex line Message-ID: <8CCB3BCEC620979-C5C-8002@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> A friend's BJ7 just sprung a leak in the oil pressure flex line today, so we ran over to Victoria British (we live only a few miles away) & picked up a replacement. Ran back to the car & tried fitting the new line. After several hours of frustration we determined that the threads on the end that attach to the hard line leading to the gage were not the same as original. They were close, but not the same. The other end is fine! Does anyone have a source they know from recent experience can provide a correct flex line? Gary Hodson From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Apr 26 19:22:28 2010 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 18:22:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure flex line In-Reply-To: <8CCB3BCEC620979-C5C-8002@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CCB3BCEC620979-C5C-8002@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <005401cae5a8$1a4f1fe0$4eed5fa0$@rr.com> I bought one several months ago from Moss to put in the boot as a spare. It's still in the package it came in, so I guess I should break it out and make sure it fits. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:06 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure flex line A friend's BJ7 just sprung a leak in the oil pressure flex line today, so we ran over to Victoria British (we live only a few miles away) & picked up a replacement. Ran back to the car & tried fitting the new line. After several hours of frustration we determined that the threads on the end that attach to the hard line leading to the gage were not the same as original. They were close, but not the same. The other end is fine! Does anyone have a source they know from recent experience can provide a correct flex line? Gary Hodson From ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 19:54:13 2010 From: ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net (Ron Huseman) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 21:54:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7/BJ8 Distributor Message-ID: <007b01cae5ac$89d87380$9d895a80$@net> Healey List: Almost 5 years ago, I started on a restoral of a true 'basket case' BJ7. I had never restored a LBC before and the parts I began with were simply a pile of rusted junk. Thanks to the advise, parts and encouragement many of you made, the car is now fully restored and running like a champ. However, I have one last issue that I want to resolve before the car is deemed "completed". Everything in the car is truly a "BJ7" part, either restored from the original car, or scavenged from many of you who assisted me in my efforts. The engine block I had was from a BJ8. I was told that it was the same block as my BJ7, but with some bigger carbs, etc. so I used it. At the time I didn't realize it, but the tach on an 8 is electronic, and the 7 is mechanically driven by a unit between the block and the distributor. Since I have a BJ8 engine, the distributor had no drive for the tach cable. The distributor now in the car is a 25D and works just fine..however, the tachometer sits there and looms at me from the dash like a sick puppy wondering why it's not being fed! Is there a distributor/drive part that I can buy that fits the BJ8 drive gear and also has the mechanical drive unit I see on other BJ7s? Is the mechanical drive unit I need a part that will fit between the BJ8 drive gear and the 25D distributor? I'll replace the current distributor is I have to. When I look at the available drawings and photos of my distributor vs that of a BJ8, it seems like there is no difference. I just do not see the mechanical drive unit on either of the documentation I have. Can someone explain to me what I need to make this work?? Thanks to all of you who have so generously contributed to my slow, cumbersome efforts to restore this beautiful car. I call her "MYRTLE" after my maternal grandmother. She too was fickle and demanding, but well worth knowing. (She also lived to be 100!) Ronald Huseman ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Mon Apr 26 20:00:42 2010 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:00:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure flex line References: <8CCB3BCEC620979-C5C-8002@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <235974CE4B4C487B97ECE8AB6883CFBB@FRED> I buy mine from Moss. Have used them on 5 restorations...no problems. John Snyder 1959 BN 1960 BT7 1961 BN7 MK2 1962 BT7 MK2 >A friend's BJ7 just sprung a leak in the oil pressure flex line today, so >we > ran over to Victoria British (we live only a few miles away) & picked up a > replacement. Ran back to the car & tried fitting the new line. After > several > hours of frustration we determined that the threads on the end that attach > to > the hard line leading to the gage were not the same as original. They were > close, but not the same. The other end is fine! Does anyone have a source > they > know from recent experience can provide a correct flex line? > Gary Hodson From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Apr 26 21:25:37 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 03:25:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_line?= Message-ID: <20100427032537.12546.qmail@server278.com> when mine blew many years ago i was up in oregon. my brother took me to a place that made hydraulic lines for timber equipment. they used the ends off the old line and made one up in about 20 minutes or so and it has been on the car for at least ten years or more. hjim From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 23:25:17 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:25:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7/BJ8 Distributor In-Reply-To: References: <007b01cae5ac$89d87380$9d895a80$@net> Message-ID: > Ronald - > > Just call around to guys like British Car Specialists or Bob Yule, someone > out there will have a used tachometer drive housing and shaft. I would not > expect it to cost all that much money. Once you get it, you can just bolt > it to your BJ8 motor , you'll just have to get a cable to connect the drive > to your tach. > > The other option is to purchase a cheapo electronic tachometer and then > swap out the guts on your mechanical tach and that will work too, but not > original. > > If you go here: > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36376 > > and look at part id# 106 to 125, that is all the parts you need. If > someone is selling this used, they'll just sell you the whole thing in one > shot. > > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 27 02:11:54 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:11:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> Very replica, bad shut lines, terrible panel/paint job, awful dashboard and instruments. What is nice is the "Austin" V8 job with the double barrel side drafts (gold plated Webers?). Looks very well presented. Also a lot of thought went into the underneath of the car (exhaust). But $35.000? Kees Oudesluijs NL Pieter and Linda wrote: > Ebay item number 110523321977 . It speaks for itself really. From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 03:17:53 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:17:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> Message-ID: I like the 'murkin flag on the diff, so you can see it when this guy smokes you with the gold weber'd Austin V8 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 4:11 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Very replica, bad shut lines, terrible panel/paint job, awful dashboard and > instruments. What is nice is the "Austin" V8 job with the double barrel side > drafts (gold plated Webers?). Looks very well presented. Also a lot of > thought went into the underneath of the car (exhaust). But $35.000? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Tue Apr 27 05:43:26 2010 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 07:43:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7/BJ8 Distributor In-Reply-To: <007b01cae5ac$89d87380$9d895a80$@net> References: <007b01cae5ac$89d87380$9d895a80$@net> Message-ID: I have lots of the drive units that you are looking for. How about $50 + shipping. Michael Salter On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 9:54 PM, Ron Huseman wrote: > Healey List: > > > > Almost 5 years ago, I started on a restoral of a true 'basket case' BJ7. I > had never restored a LBC before and the parts I began with were simply a > pile of rusted junk. Thanks to the advise, parts and encouragement many of > you made, the car is now fully restored and running like a champ. > > > > However, I have one last issue that I want to resolve before the car is > deemed "completed". Everything in the car is truly a "BJ7" part, either > restored from the original car, or scavenged from many of you who assisted > me in my efforts. The engine block I had was from a BJ8. I was told that it > was the same block as my BJ7, but with some bigger carbs, etc. so I used > it. > At the time I didn't realize it, but the tach on an 8 is electronic, and > the > 7 is mechanically driven by a unit between the block and the distributor. > Since I have a BJ8 engine, the distributor had no drive for the tach cable. > The distributor now in the car is a 25D and works just fine..however, the > tachometer sits there and looms at me from the dash like a sick puppy > wondering why it's not being fed! > > > > Is there a distributor/drive part that I can buy that fits the BJ8 drive > gear and also has the mechanical drive unit I see on other BJ7s? Is the > mechanical drive unit I need a part that will fit between the BJ8 drive > gear > and the 25D distributor? I'll replace the current distributor is I have to. > When I look at the available drawings and photos of my distributor vs that > of a BJ8, it seems like there is no difference. I just do not see the > mechanical drive unit on either of the documentation I have. > > > > Can someone explain to me what I need to make this work?? > > > > Thanks to all of you who have so generously contributed to my slow, > cumbersome efforts to restore this beautiful car. I call her "MYRTLE" after > my maternal grandmother. She too was fickle and demanding, but well worth > knowing. (She also lived to be 100!) > > > > Ronald Huseman > > ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/msalter at precisionsportscar.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 07:18:54 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 06:18:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on BN2 Engine Message-ID: <4BD6E43E.9060204@comcast.net> Listers, According to the pictures in the Moss catalog, a 100 engine has different mounts than a 100-6 or 3000's. Yet, the mounts on our BN2 (100M) look more like those from a 100-6/3000. Everything else on this car is pretty much original--was there a point at which a later style mount was used on 100s? Also, did the 100s come with an engine ID plate like the sixes? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca Tue Apr 27 07:48:13 2010 From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:48:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints Message-ID: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Hi, Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks Mal Bruce From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 07:59:09 2010 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:59:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: Listers, As it happens, I was working on my carbs yesterday and I lost one of the clips. So, I am looking for a source as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Fred 63 BJ7 On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Mal Bruce wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in > 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the > clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at > least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks > > Mal Bruce > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com From twillig at ruda.de Tue Apr 27 08:26:32 2010 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:26:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] trunk (boot) kits In-Reply-To: <4BD609C0.2050906@earthlink.net> References: <4BD609C0.2050906@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hi Bob, if you only need to replace a couple of pieces, then why don't you get yourself a few meters of the material and cut out the desired shapes. To my experience some available kits do not fit very well, so it takes quite some time to make your boot look decent. In Europe A-H Spares, Woolies and some more sell the material in several colours. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: R. Cobb [mailto:rcobb at earthlink.net] Gesendet: Montag, 26. April 2010 23:47 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] trunk (boot) kits On my couple-year-old BJ8 restoration, I'm needing to replace a couple pieces of the trunk liner due to battery acid damage, though it won't be necessary to replace the entire set. Consequently, I'm looking to get a good-appearing kit for a reasonable price. Are there any recommendations regarding Moss or Victoria British products or another source? Thanks. Bob From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 09:15:32 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 23:15:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on BN2 Engine In-Reply-To: <4BD6E43E.9060204@comcast.net> References: <4BD6E43E.9060204@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I think the difference is the earlier mounts use BSF studs and the later ones UNF. I believe the later BMC mounts oficially superscede the earlier Austin ones. I know where you can get the BSF ones... Alan On 4/27/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > According to the pictures in the Moss catalog, a 100 engine has > different mounts than a 100-6 or 3000's. Yet, the mounts on our BN2 > (100M) look more like those from a 100-6/3000. Everything else on this > car is pretty much original--was there a point at which a later style > mount was used on 100s? > > Also, did the 100s come with an engine ID plate like the sixes? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 09:34:24 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:34:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Questions on BN2 Engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1419211482.12281251272382464509.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks, Alan. I found a photo of our mounts (was working from memory) and they look kind of like a cross between the Moss picture and the 3000s' setup. The difference is the 100's mounts to the front engine plate whereas the 3000's mount to the block. The rubber parts are the same part number. Looks like our parts are correct (not likely anyone would have changed out the motor mounts, unless they broke). I assume the mounts are painted engine color--that correct? We've found a couple other differences in our car--a late BN2--from the shop manual and the Moss catalog; like, the main bearings don't use castellated nuts with cotters. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Bob - I think the difference is the earlier mounts use BSF studs and the later ones UNF. I believe the later BMC mounts oficially superscede the earlier Austin ones. I know where you can get the BSF ones... Alan On 4/27/10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > According to the pictures in the Moss catalog, a 100 engine has > different mounts than a 100-6 or 3000's. Yet, the mounts on our BN2 > (100M) look more like those from a 100-6/3000. Everything else on this > car is pretty much original--was there a point at which a later style > mount was used on 100s? > > Also, did the 100s come with an engine ID plate like the sixes? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 09:36:05 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 23:36:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: Mal - Ahead4healeys.com sells those ball joints new. Their part no FL4940. Alan On 4/27/10, Mal Bruce wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in > 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the > clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at > least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks > > Mal Bruce > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Apr 27 10:02:28 2010 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:02:28 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <000301cae623$09d0c080$1d724180$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Over here, UK, there are companies that specialize in "modernizing" classics, mostly jags. They nearly always whip out the carbs and stick in injection. These guys are normally hoarders, the one near me has shelves of SU stuff....carbs, linkage etcetc. Maybe you can do a bit of research and contact someone??? Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: 27 April 2010 14:59 To: Mal Bruce Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints Listers, As it happens, I was working on my carbs yesterday and I lost one of the clips. So, I am looking for a source as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Fred 63 BJ7 On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Mal Bruce wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in > 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the > clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at > least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks > > Mal Bruce > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 27 10:04:54 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:04:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on BN2 Engine In-Reply-To: <4BD6E43E.9060204@comcast.net> References: <4BD6E43E.9060204@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0055FB12-3A37-4687-B899-2DEFF62D0FE9@sbcglobal.net> The motor mounts on all the Healeys are the same. The only difference in the BN1 and the BN2 is the threads on the BN1 are BSF David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 27, 2010, at 6:18 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > According to the pictures in the Moss catalog, a 100 engine has > different mounts than a 100-6 or 3000's. Yet, the mounts on our > BN2 (100M) look more like those from a 100-6/3000. Everything > else on this car is pretty much original--was there a point at > which a later style mount was used on 100s? > > Also, did the 100s come with an engine ID plate like the sixes? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 27 11:49:17 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:49:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <7BD50E45-17CE-49EA-9C9A-0C20AC96A81E@sbcglobal.net> Mal, we have the ball sockets available. I may also have a few of the original clips. You can contact John in my parts dept and he can check into these for you. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 27, 2010, at 6:48 AM, Mal Bruce wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball > joints in > 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints > but the > clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in > need of at > least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks > > Mal Bruce > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From warthodson at aol.com Tue Apr 27 13:04:49 2010 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:04:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <8CCB453A494A4A9-10BC-330E@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com> I hope they have a source that produces a good quality reproduction because the reproductions I saw recently were junk. The balls were a very loose fit in the socket & the spring clip bits didn't function. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Mal Bruce ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2010 10:36 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints Mal - Ahead4healeys.com sells those ball joints new. Their part no FL4940. Alan On 4/27/10, Mal Bruce wrote: Hi, Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks Mal Bruce _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -- ent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 53 BN1 59 Jag Mk IX 64 BJ8 ______________________________________________ ealeys at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From al at bighealey.org Tue Apr 27 13:42:06 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:42:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil - wheel position Message-ID: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> All: I went in to check the oil level on a rear shock on my '62 BT-7 which appeared to be leaking (oil around the shock housing). Upon cleaning then pulling the fill plug, oil flowed out, as if it was over-full. Since I doubt it was/is still over full here is the question before I go check the other three shocks: Does it make any difference in the oil level whether the wheel assembly was supported or hanging (with the jack stands under the frame instead of under the wheels)? In other words, is it possible for it to appear full/over full by virtue of where the lever arm is in its travel? Thanks in advance. Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 14:03:05 2010 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:03:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil - wheel position In-Reply-To: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> References: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> Message-ID: I think you need to burp the pressure out of the shocks, and then fill them up. Opening the fill screw releases the pressure on the oil. Other will confirm or deny this rumor :) cheers. On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 12:42 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: > > > > I went in to check the oil level on a rear shock on my '62 BT-7 which > appeared to be leaking (oil around the shock housing). Upon cleaning then > pulling the fill plug, oil flowed out, as if it was over-full. Since I > doubt it was/is still over full here is the question before I go check the > other three shocks: > > > > Does it make any difference in the oil level whether the wheel assembly was > supported or hanging (with the jack stands under the frame instead of under > the wheels)? In other words, is it possible for it to appear full/over > full > by virtue of where the lever arm is in its travel? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3 at gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ron.kraimaat at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 14:43:53 2010 From: ron.kraimaat at gmail.com (Ron) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 22:43:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] dead generator Message-ID: <62BCEFB3031D4D1A84B2288360097869@DC5100> Hi, Recently I joined this list, and now already I have a problem where I could do with a little advise. During the first roadtest this year with my '64 phase1 BJ8, I noticed the Ignition warning light did not dim. I got the service manual, and decided to start my investigations with the first possible cause: the generator. The generator is of the C.42 type with a small connector for the field (F) and a big connector to the rotor (D). I read in my manual and on the web, that I should get a reading on my voltmeter by: - disconnecting connecting the regulator wires from F and D - connect F and D together with a piece of wire - measure between these two connectors and ground (ground is positive in my case) with a running engine. So I did and could hardly measure any voltage. Most certainly nothing in the 12v range that is. I examined the generator and dicovered that the brushes where totally worn. One even exposing the copper wire, thus causing some damage on the collector. I got new brushes, mounted them, tried again to measure and....... same result: around 0V. Desperate to get the car ready for a ride last Sunday (weather forcast was very good and the first tour of the Healey Owners Club was planned), I managed to get a new (rebuild) generator on Saterday. Bolted it on the engine, measured the voltage: again 0V. Grrrrrrrrr. I was told by the shop owner, there might be a small chance the generator would not work because lying around for too long in stock. I tried to magnitize the field with my regulated powersupply, then wired F and D together, and started the engine: still no results. I gave up...Time for a few beers. I called the owner Monday for the procedure on getting the generator back to live. He told me they do this by starting the engine, and holding a negative wire for 1 or 2 secs to the F. That way the warninglight would dim and take the car for a ride to make the magnetism 'permanent'. I tried this procedure this evening (engine rev just over 1000 rpm) with the same result........ None. Do I have such bad luck that both generators are broken??? Strange thing is that I could measure field resistance of about 4 ohms and rotor resistance of approx 1 ohm, so that does not look like a dead generator to me. I am totally lost here. Any advise is welcome. thanks. Ron Kraimaat The Netherlands From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Apr 27 17:36:23 2010 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:36:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot In-Reply-To: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> References: <4BA12D8B.80208@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <0D06A14AFD66434F867B40B63FA80EC3@LeonardPCPC> Did anyone on The List volunteer their Healey for the photo shoot? If so, when was/is the program supposed to be aired? What was the subject of the program? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Bill" To: "Healey" Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 12:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot > Sent to our club, Austin-Healey Association of Southern California. > > Bill Barnett > '53 Red Car > > Subject: Austin Healey Oprah Photo Shoot > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:32:24 +0000 > > Roy Fielden is looking for a Blue over White or Silver Healey to be used > in a photo shoot for the Oprah Show. It will take place *this Thursday > *in Paris, CA . Anyone who is interested contact him at 818-822-4049. From mgtd51 at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 02:23:11 2010 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:23:11 -1100 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: <8CCB453A494A4A9-10BC-330E@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com> References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> <8CCB453A494A4A9-10BC-330E@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4BD7F06F.30308@comcast.net> Tom's Import Toys. On 4/27/2010 8:04 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > I hope they have a source that produces a good quality reproduction because > the reproductions I saw recently were junk. The balls were a very loose fit in > the socket& the spring clip bits didn't function. > Gary Hodson > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alan Seigrist > To: Mal Bruce; healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2010 10:36 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints > > > Mal - > Ahead4healeys.com sells those ball joints new. Their part no FL4940. > Alan > On 4/27/10, Mal Bruce wrote: > Hi, > Does anyone know a source or have 2 servicable clips for the ball joints in > 3000's throttle linkage. Its Moss part #372-015 for the ball joints but the > clip is not shown separately in any parts catalogues and I'm in need of at > least 2 clips. The repos do not look too accurate. Thanks > > Mal Bruce > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -- > ent from my mobile device > Alan > '52 A90 > 53 BN1 > 59 Jag Mk IX > 64 BJ8 > ______________________________________________ > ealeys at autox.team.net > onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > uggested annual donation $12.75 > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51 at comcast.net From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 27 20:22:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:22:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil - wheel position In-Reply-To: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> References: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> Message-ID: <4BD79BFB.60905@justbrits.com> Al, the "correct" answer follows: << I went in to check the oil level on a rear shock on my '62 BT-7 which appeared to be leaking (oil around the shock housing). >> The "answer" is as plain as the shox you are even 'bothering' with. Either remove your unit OR order a RE-BUILT [both of which include a limited Life-time GUARANTEE against said problem ever re-occurring again (in your life-time -:) )] from Peter C. [core charge refunded when your unit is rec'd by him] and change out when received. It WILL be better than new. If you 'sort of' don't like your "soft" ride, call him and discuss your "wants & needs" as he can [and does] re-valve to "taste" !!!! It's a WATS line = FREE call. Ed [NFI in him nor his Co. - just a BELIEVER -:)-:)-:) & one of his suppliers] From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 27 20:24:44 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:24:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage ball joints In-Reply-To: References: <32A05D4DCBD04F71B48B85E5B250A448@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <4BD79C6C.4060100@justbrits.com> << Ahead4healeys.com sells those ball joints new. >> So do I, Alan [and Mal -:)]. Ed From shop at justbrits.com Tue Apr 27 20:46:09 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 21:46:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BD7A171.5020509@justbrits.com> << But $35.000? >> Kees [everything you said plus], if the gent would PAY me $ 35,000.00USD AND ship it to me I would "consider" it !! -:)-:)-:) !!!! Ed The truth ma'am, just the truth. PS: Thanks to Sgt. Joe Friday. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 27 22:25:54 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 06:25:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replica on ebay In-Reply-To: <4BD7A171.5020509@justbrits.com> References: <412A04E3-E6E0-408C-AA22-56A0CEB72FB2@pt.lu> <4BD69C4A.3080203@chello.nl> <4BD7A171.5020509@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4BD7B8D2.4020500@chello.nl> It may go like stink though. Kees Oudesluijs Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << But $35.000? >> > > Kees [everything you said plus], if the gent would PAY me > $ 35,000.00USD AND ship it to me I would "consider" it !! > > -:)-:)-:) !!!! > > Ed > > The truth ma'am, just the truth. > > PS: Thanks to Sgt. Joe Friday. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2837 - datum van uitgifte: 04/26/10 20:27:00 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu Apr 29 04:46:26 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 03:46:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today Message-ID: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 29 05:54:28 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:54:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BD97374.90901@chello.nl> Nice (girl). Kees Oudesluijs NL HealeyRick wrote: > The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 06:15:14 2010 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:15:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01f501cae795$a0a40e90$e1ec2bb0$@net> You can now see it on the Video page of my site. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 6:46 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 06:56:24 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 05:56:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <01f501cae795$a0a40e90$e1ec2bb0$@net> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <01f501cae795$a0a40e90$e1ec2bb0$@net> Message-ID: <4BD981F8.7020005@comcast.net> Here's the original music video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMsTIgsqc1s&mode=related&search bs John Sims wrote: > You can now see it on the Video page of my site. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > > The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 07:19:35 2010 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:19:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8463880E-E622-4600-8E60-BCB84D395793@gmail.com> Gidday Rick, It is a great video, and it is really very well done. My only criticism, if it really was a sales advert, would be that the part where he drives around like a big wuss around the hairpin (in the middle of the road at 10 mph) should have cut to footage of e.g. an ex rally 3000 in a perfect 4 wheel drift with that real Healey redline exhaust noise!! That would truly underline the real motorsport history and reputation of the marque. ;-) Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 29/04/2010, at 8:46 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 29 07:33:45 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:33:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Except for the cigarette ... RD > The commercial might look like this beautifully done one: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQvjCUHA7ek > > Rick From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 29 11:41:51 2010 From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ") Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:41:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BD9C4DF.5070801@justbrits.com> I like this one better, Rick !!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqTFJjfKfj4&NR=1 And this one just HAD to be an outright BLAST !!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FATsL7yrBMc&feature=related Ed PS: I would would be VERY happy with either car -:)-:)-:) in the .........2nd one !!! From geatros at shaw.ca Thu Apr 29 13:20:20 2010 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:20:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <4BD9C4DF.5070801@justbrits.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4BD9C4DF.5070801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: Ed..... Way too funny ........... LOL !!! Kenny Vancouver BC On 29-Apr-10, at 10:41 AM, Shop at Just Brits wrote: > I like this one better, Rick !!! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqTFJjfKfj4&NR=1 > > And this one just HAD to be an outright BLAST !!!!!! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FATsL7yrBMc&feature=related > > Ed > > PS: I would would be VERY happy with either car -:)-:)-:) in the > .........2nd one !!! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > geatros at shaw.ca From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Apr 29 14:43:38 2010 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 13:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank Message-ID: I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior door panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the previous panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I am using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 board and very thin foam. Thanks for any help. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 17:14:41 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:14:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich - I am sorry to tell you this but probably sometime in the past someone replaced your doors with doors from a BJ7. The doors are identical in all respects except the shafts of the winow regulators are about a half inch shorter. You need to buy BJ8 window regulators. I don't know if a new batch has been made by anyone, if not you'll have to get them used. Some people weld extensions on the shafts, but I am not a fan of this solution. Alan On 4/30/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior > door > panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is > occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the previous > panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I am > using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window > mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is > there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 > board and very thin foam. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 29 17:35:22 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 18:35:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100429183522.3OLKX.1657741.root@ispmxfep11-z01> Had mine for 30 years and it has always done that. Put new panels on a few years ago and didn't take long before they did it also. ---- Richard Kahn wrote: ============= I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior door panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the previous panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I am using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 board and very thin foam. Thanks for any help. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 29 17:36:11 2010 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:36:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100429183611.S7EIM.1657756.root@ispmxfep11-z01> For a fact, my doors are BJ8, and they have always done that. ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Rich - I am sorry to tell you this but probably sometime in the past someone replaced your doors with doors from a BJ7. The doors are identical in all respects except the shafts of the winow regulators are about a half inch shorter. You need to buy BJ8 window regulators. I don't know if a new batch has been made by anyone, if not you'll have to get them used. Some people weld extensions on the shafts, but I am not a fan of this solution. Alan On 4/30/10, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior > door > panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is > occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the previous > panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I am > using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window > mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is > there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 > board and very thin foam. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From racarbon at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 18:08:49 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:08:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Main Seal Leak Eimination Alternative Message-ID: Recently, a member of the Positive Earth Drivers Club was doing research on how to stop the common rear main leak that occurs in most LBCs. This topic has been discussed before and those who have not installed a rear seal had the option of reducing positive crankcase pressure through the installation of a PCV valve. It seems that, for years, drag racers and dry-sump engines have incorporated the Bernoulli Effect to suck gases out of the block and into the exhaust system. Implementation was usually through a hose connected to the valve cover, passing through a check valve, and entering the exhaust through a bevel-cut piece of pipe welded into the exhaust system. The system parts are relatively cheap with the exhaust weld the only real task. The only requirement seems to be the presence of minimal backpressure in the exhaust system. Has anyone done this on a Healey? If so, what was the result? Thanks and all the best, Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 From rpschauss at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 18:23:35 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:23:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment Message-ID: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to be in line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the proper relationship to each other? Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints replaced and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 degrees off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see how it was set up before I sent it out. Thanks, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 19:01:22 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:01:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: <20100429183522.3OLKX.1657741.root@ispmxfep11-z01> References: <20100429183522.3OLKX.1657741.root@ispmxfep11-z01> Message-ID: Tom - I think in your case the issue is different. The window crank escutcheon retention spring is what causes the BJ8 panels to bow over time. But by richard's description, it sounds like he doesn't have enough space to start with, suggesting BJ7 regulators. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 7:35 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Had mine for 30 years and it has always done that. Put new panels on a few > years ago and didn't take long before they did it also. From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 19:02:53 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:02:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard - Another very common work around is to drill the crank handle's peg hole closer to the end, pushing the crank window out. You can usually get another 1/4 or so of clearance doing this. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 4:43 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior > door > panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is > occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the previous > panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I > am > using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window > mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is > there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 > board and very thin foam. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca Thu Apr 29 19:19:38 2010 From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:19:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank References: Message-ID: Alan, There are other differences; the leading edge of the door is configured differentely and there is a flange around the inner door aperture to accomodate the 2 piece door panel. Rich needs to tell us the length of the shafts and all will be revealed. Mal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Richard Kahn" ; Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 7:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank > Rich - > > I am sorry to tell you this but probably sometime in the past someone > replaced your doors with doors from a BJ7. The doors are identical in > all respects except the shafts of the winow regulators are about a > half inch shorter. > > You need to buy BJ8 window regulators. I don't know if a new batch > has been made by anyone, if not you'll have to get them used. > > Some people weld extensions on the shafts, but I am not a fan of this > solution. > > Alan > > On 4/30/10, Richard Kahn wrote: >> I am having trouble with the window cranks on my BJ8 pushing the interior >> door >> panels inward, causing it to bow away from the bottom portion. This is >> occurring on both sides. I have just replace the panels due to the >> previous >> panels doing the same thing. The square shaft has two sets of holes and I >> am >> using the ones further inboard ( towards the seats). Can the whole window >> mechanism be moved in (towards the seats) 1/4 or more using washers or is >> there another way of adjusting the position of the window? I am using 1/8 >> board and very thin foam. >> Thanks for any help. >> Rich Kahn >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your >> inbox. >> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL >> :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbruce6 at cogeco.ca From acmiller at mhcable.com Thu Apr 29 19:37:12 2010 From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:37:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S Message-ID: Is there any dimensional difference between BN!/BN2 and BN4 hood clamps. they have different part #'s and prices with Moss, but appear to be the same. I am fitting a vintage hardtop to my 100m and have to customize the mountings anyway, so I would be inclined to use the less expensive 100-6 hardware if it makes little difference. of particular interest is whether the later clamps fit to the 100-4's ball-shaped post studs. any thoughts appreciated. allen miller bn2/m From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Apr 29 19:40:41 2010 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:40:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4BDA3519.5010706@earthlink.net> Peter, There are two alignment arrows. On the propshaft I looked at, the arrow on the front piece was about mid-span in-line with the grease nipple. On the rear tube, the arrow is just after the weld. I believe the yokes should be in the same plane. Cheers, Bob Peter Schauss wrote: > Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to be in > line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the > proper relationship to each other? > > Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints replaced > and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 degrees > off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see how it > was set up before I sent it out. > > Thanks, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 20:00:18 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:00:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Allen - I suspect the difference is that the 100 latches are use BSF / BA screws (it's mix and match if I recall) and likely the BN4 uses UNF. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 9:37 AM, allen c miller jr wrote: > Is there any dimensional difference between BN!/BN2 and BN4 hood clamps. > they > have different part #'s and prices with Moss, but appear to be the same. I > am > fitting a vintage hardtop to my 100m and have to customize the mountings > anyway, so I would be inclined to use the less expensive 100-6 hardware if > it > makes little difference. of particular interest is whether the later clamps > fit to the 100-4's ball-shaped post studs. any thoughts appreciated. > > allen miller > bn2/m From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 20:03:15 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:03:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Message-ID: It's pretty simple, if you have the drive shaft in your hand, the front yoke and rear yoke should be in alignment. That way the drive shaft will take the sinusoidal variation in the rotation by moving back and forth. if they are 90 degrees out, then the sinusoidal motion in the U-joint gets amplified and transferred to the axle and you get all kinds of vibration. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 8:23 AM, Peter Schauss wrote: > Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to be in > line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the > proper relationship to each other? > > Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints replaced > and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 degrees > off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see how it > was set up before I sent it out. > > Thanks, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 29 20:38:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:38:13 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4BDA4295.5090601@bradakis.com> Universal joints are NOT constant velocity joints. Sure, if you apply 10 turns at one side, you'll get 10 turns at the other. If you apply a constant 10 rpm at one side, the *average* at the other will be 10, but it will vary. I can't remember the actual math from the physics regarding the different angular rotations involved, but I do believe that the U joints do need to be aligned, not 20 degrees off. mjb. From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 29 21:41:51 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 03:41:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?healeys_window_crank?= Message-ID: <20100430034151.2547.qmail@server278.com> when i redid the bj8 many years ago i ran into the same problem. not wanting the new panels to have that bow in them i cut the spring that hold the escutcheon tight so that it only put a small amount of pressure on the panel. so far, so good. hjim From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 29 21:46:41 2010 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 03:46:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?u-joints?= Message-ID: <20100430034641.6926.qmail@server278.com> just replaced a set of u-joints last weekend. had to scrape to find the arrows and they were exactly aligned with both joints in the same plane. never have seen it any different. hjim From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 29 22:05:19 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:05:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E298320E3B543BBA22DBED4D9BDE98F@LIFEBOOK> Allen, The hundred latch hook is canted on a different compound angle than the 6 cylinder latch hook. In addition there were differences in the screws and nuts. I don't think your fitting of the hooks will be a problem though as long as you can match the angle of the hook end. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:00 PM To: "allen c miller jr" Cc: "Healey List" Subject: Re: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S > Allen - > > I suspect the difference is that the 100 latches are use BSF / BA screws > (it's mix and match if I recall) and likely the BN4 uses UNF. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 9:37 AM, allen c miller jr > wrote: > >> Is there any dimensional difference between BN!/BN2 and BN4 hood clamps. >> they >> have different part #'s and prices with Moss, but appear to be the same. >> I >> am >> fitting a vintage hardtop to my 100m and have to customize the mountings >> anyway, so I would be inclined to use the less expensive 100-6 hardware >> if >> it >> makes little difference. of particular interest is whether the later >> clamps >> fit to the 100-4's ball-shaped post studs. any thoughts appreciated. >> >> allen miller >> bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of dendekker BN1 006.jpg] From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 23:00:09 2010 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:00:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S In-Reply-To: <4E298320E3B543BBA22DBED4D9BDE98F@LIFEBOOK> References: <4E298320E3B543BBA22DBED4D9BDE98F@LIFEBOOK> Message-ID: Rich - Was it your intention to make us jealous by sending us a picture of a real Gun Metal Grey 100! :) Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 12:05 PM, Rich C wrote: > Allen, > > The hundred latch hook is canted on a different compound angle than the 6 > cylinder latch hook. In addition there were differences in the screws and > nuts. I don't think your fitting of the hooks will be a problem though as > long as you can match the angle of the hook end. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Alan Seigrist" > > Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 10:00 PM > To: "allen c miller jr" > Cc: "Healey List" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] TOP BOW CLAMPS 100-4'S AND 100-6'S > > Allen - >> >> I suspect the difference is that the 100 latches are use BSF / BA screws >> (it's mix and match if I recall) and likely the BN4 uses UNF. >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '59 Jag Mk IX >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 9:37 AM, allen c miller jr > >wrote: >> >> Is there any dimensional difference between BN!/BN2 and BN4 hood clamps. >>> they >>> have different part #'s and prices with Moss, but appear to be the same. >>> I >>> am >>> fitting a vintage hardtop to my 100m and have to customize the mountings >>> anyway, so I would be inclined to use the less expensive 100-6 hardware >>> if >>> it >>> makes little difference. of particular interest is whether the later >>> clamps >>> fit to the 100-4's ball-shaped post studs. any thoughts appreciated. >>> >>> allen miller >>> bn2/m >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 29 23:22:02 2010 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:22:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] If Healeys Were Sold Today In-Reply-To: <4BD9C4DF.5070801@justbrits.com> References: <834924.68438.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4BD9C4DF.5070801@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100429222117.02005810@pop.att.yahoo.com> This one was great! At 12:41 PM 4/29/2010 -0500, Shop at \" Just Brits \" wrote: >And this one just HAD to be an outright BLAST !!!!!! > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FATsL7yrBMc&feature=related > >Ed From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 02:21:32 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:21:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <4BDA930C.8060403@chello.nl> The two yokes of the Hooke joints on the drive shaft should be in the same position or in line, that way they form a Constant Velocity joint (sort of). If they are out of line you can get serious drive line vibrations which is very uncomfortable and leading to possible failure of the gearbox or differential, especialy with a shortish drive shaft and large angles. Kees Oudesluijs NL Peter Schauss wrote: > Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to be in > line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the > proper relationship to each other? > > Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints replaced > and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 degrees > off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see how it > was set up before I sent it out. > > Thanks, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB From ampole at hotmail.com Fri Apr 30 02:42:29 2010 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 08:42:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window crank In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich The shaft is 2.1/8" long from the spring, heres a pic cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg] From gaagten at hetnet.nl Fri Apr 30 03:48:43 2010 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:48:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] NY Message-ID: <7D25D68D636F47B999827D4C5A377C98@Laptop> Hello list, A friend of mine(big A-H fan,is actually restoring his A-H 100) will spent from next thuesday 7 days in New York. Is there anything to see/do for a Healey freak here? Would appreciate any suggestions. Regards, Ge Aagten The Netherlands BJ8 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 04:52:50 2010 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 06:52:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed Message-ID: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I have read and reread my email notes from the past 12 years and nothing is fixing my problem. I have adjusted the solenoid according to all my manuals ( drill bit in the side lever of the trany} and even adjusted a little bit past the hole and it still won't engage by itself. I did get it to the point of working but occasionally it would not. This was before winter and before my attempt at trying to adjust it to get it to kick in every time. So now I'm back to the basics and have to reach across the trany and push the lever down manually to get it to engage. It has to be a hard push and even then it kicks out after a few seconds. The solenoid engages with a nice "snap" all the time and the throttle switch works properly, so I am almost there. When I had the adjustment set up a little past the hole I couldn't get it to kick in even if I pushed on the lever manually. ( I thought that was a bit strange so I went back to the lever being directly lined up with the hole) What a PITA this adjustment is when you do it by yourself. The trany cover is off, I can see the solenoid engage and the lever moves over the hole and I can stick the drill bit in the hole per the manual and notes. I took the valve ( steel ball, spring, rod etc.) out of the top and made sure all was clean and free of dirt and observed that the ball did move when the lever was over the hole in the side of the trany. My last ditch thought is that I am using the Redline MT90 rather than engine oil and maybe the trany just doesn't like this stuff for some reason. Man these tranys suck without overdrive. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Mark From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 30 05:57:52 2010 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:57:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4BDA930C.8060403@chello.nl> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> <4BDA930C.8060403@chello.nl> Message-ID: Well, it's all quite easy to rectify. You should be able to unscrew the connecting collar where the drive shaft telescopes on its splines, pull the two sections apart and realign the assembly. Rich > Peter Schauss wrote: >> Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to be in >> line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the >> proper relationship to each other? >> >> Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints replaced >> and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 >> degrees >> off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see how >> it >> was set up before I sent it out. >> >> Thanks, >> Peter Schauss >> 1963 BJ7 >> 1980 MGB From gmari2 at verizon.net Fri Apr 30 05:59:43 2010 From: gmari2 at verizon.net (gmari2 at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 06:59:43 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] NY Message-ID: <32087988.590644.1272628783221.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net> /r0ehZJ: Permission denied From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 30 06:20:28 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 06:20:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed In-Reply-To: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <1116C9C3D5814D0AB275D0D7AE5E9989@oscar> Mark, If it engages, even momentarily, then we can usually assume that the valve and pump are doing their job. So, we have to wonder why it won't stay engaged. This is 99 out of a hundred times attributable to the o-rings on the accumulator housing. They get hard and shrink and allow the hydraulic pressure to bleed around the accumulator piston which acts upon the two operating pistons. So, pull the accumulator and R&R the o-ring(s) dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 4:53 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed I have read and reread my email notes from the past 12 years and nothing is fixing my problem. I have adjusted the solenoid according to all my manuals ( drill bit in the side lever of the trany} and even adjusted a little bit past the hole and it still won't engage by itself. I did get it to the point of working but occasionally it would not. This was before winter and before my attempt at trying to adjust it to get it to kick in every time. So now I'm back to the basics and have to reach across the trany and push the lever down manually to get it to engage. It has to be a hard push and even then it kicks out after a few seconds. The solenoid engages with a nice "snap" all the time and the throttle switch works properly, so I am almost there. When I had the adjustment set up a little past the hole I couldn't get it to kick in even if I pushed on the lever manually. ( I thought that was a bit strange so I went back to the lever being directly lined up with the hole) What a PITA this adjustment is when you do it by yourself. The trany cover is off, I can see the solenoid engage and the lever moves over the hole and I can stick the drill bit in the hole per the manual and notes. I took the valve ( steel ball, spring, rod etc.) out of the top and made sure all was clean and free of dirt and observed that the ball did move when the lever was over the hole in the side of the trany. My last ditch thought is that I am using the Redline MT90 rather than engine oil and maybe the trany just doesn't like this stuff for some reason. Man these tranys suck without overdrive. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 06:25:24 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:25:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> <4BDA930C.8060403@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BDACC34.4030005@chello.nl> If after realigning, as Rich suggests, the shaft is causing vibrations, try to realign at 180 degrees. If that fails have it balanced. Kees Oudesluijs NL Rich C wrote: > Well, it's all quite easy to rectify. You should be able to unscrew > the connecting collar where the drive shaft telescopes on its splines, > pull the two sections apart and realign the assembly. > > Rich From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 06:59:02 2010 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:59:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed In-Reply-To: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <001801cae864$e8c998a0$ba5cc9e0$@net> Hi Mark, If you have changed the transmission/overdrive oil recently, you may just need to drive it for some highway miles with the overdrive switch engaged to work the air out of the overdrive system. At least that is the issue I always have when I change the oil. It's frustrating. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 5:53 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed I have read and reread my email notes from the past 12 years and nothing is fixing my problem. I have adjusted the solenoid according to all my manuals ( drill bit in the side lever of the trany} and even adjusted a little bit past the hole and it still won't engage by itself. I did get it to the point of working but occasionally it would not. This was before winter and before my attempt at trying to adjust it to get it to kick in every time. So now I'm back to the basics and have to reach across the trany and push the lever down manually to get it to engage. It has to be a hard push and even then it kicks out after a few seconds. The solenoid engages with a nice "snap" all the time and the throttle switch works properly, so I am almost there. When I had the adjustment set up a little past the hole I couldn't get it to kick in even if I pushed on the lever manually. ( I thought that was a bit strange so I went back to the lever being directly lined up with the hole) What a PITA this adjustment is when you do it by yourself. The trany cover is off, I can see the solenoid engage and the lever moves over the hole and I can stick the drill bit in the hole per the manual and notes. I took the valve ( steel ball, spring, rod etc.) out of the top and made sure all was clean and free of dirt and observed that the ball did move when the lever was over the hole in the side of the trany. My last ditch thought is that I am using the Redline MT90 rather than engine oil and maybe the trany just doesn't like this stuff for some reason. Man these tranys suck without overdrive. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Mark From racarbon at verizon.net Fri Apr 30 08:06:31 2010 From: racarbon at verizon.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:06:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed Message-ID: <5AFC294E9E8C4B0F884EA91F3DCC9A1E@rac> Hi Mark, I agree with Dave Porter as to your problem possibly being based upon hardened accumulator o-rings. However, some questions: 1. Do you have a rubber grommet installed as a stop for the solenoid plunger? 2. Is power to the solenoid constant when engaged? When initially changing to Redline MT-90, I found oil had seeped into the solenoid housing (shaft seal failure and a possible overfill). Initially working perfectly, the accumulating oil eventually caused the solenoid to respond intermittently until drained. Following the elimination of oil from the solenoid housing only, the unit again works perfectly. Good luck Ray 64BJ8P1 From al at bighealey.org Fri Apr 30 08:28:46 2010 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil - wheel position In-Reply-To: References: <000601cae641$bed12240$3c7366c0$@org> Message-ID: <006001cae871$72175280$5645f780$@org> Thanks - I will take another look. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 4:03 PM To: Al Fuller Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock oil - wheel position I think you need to burp the pressure out of the shocks, and then fill them up. Opening the fill screw releases the pressure on the oil. Other will confirm or deny this rumor :) cheers. On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 12:42 PM, Al Fuller wrote: All: I went in to check the oil level on a rear shock on my '62 BT-7 which appeared to be leaking (oil around the shock housing). Upon cleaning then pulling the fill plug, oil flowed out, as if it was over-full. Since I doubt it was/is still over full here is the question before I go check the other three shocks: Does it make any difference in the oil level whether the wheel assembly was supported or hanging (with the jack stands under the frame instead of under the wheels)? In other words, is it possible for it to appear full/over full by virtue of where the lever arm is in its travel? Thanks in advance. From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 09:15:14 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 08:15:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> All driveshafts will be the same no matter if there are 2 or 3 Universals in the shaft. The driving member at each end of the driveshaft must be at 90 degrees to each other. Originally on all British cars there is an arrow stamped in the sliding yoke, these should be aligned if the driveshaft is original. If they are not there then look at the driving member on the front yoke and the driving member on the rear yoke. They should be at 90 degees to each other. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 29, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Peter Schauss wrote: > Are the yokes at the front and rear of the drive shaft supposed to > be in > line or 90 degrees apart? What happens if the two ends are not in the > proper relationship to each other? > > Last year I sent my drive shaft out to have the universal joints > replaced > and to be balanced. When I got it back the front yoke was about 20 > degrees > off from the rear yoke. Needless to say, I had not bothered to see > how it > was set up before I sent it out. > > Thanks, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From ruvino at ripnet.com Fri Apr 30 09:35:58 2010 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:35:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem Message-ID: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> >From time to time (more time than not), when I push the starter button there is a lag before the starter fully engages-like a "umph" than then it turns over. Battery is fully charged. New starter ground cable. Any suggestions? Carl BN-4(L) From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 09:46:37 2010 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 08:46:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed Message-ID: <595699.93149.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> "This is 99 out of a hundred times attributable to the o-rings on the accumulator housing. They get hard and shrink and allow the hydraulic pressure to bleed around the accumulator piston which acts upon the twooperating pistons. So, pull the accumulator and R&R the o-ring(s)" This is good advise. Before you proceed you might want to know the hydraulic pressure the overdrive is making vs the specification. I can provide an A Type Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauge so that you can easily measure the oil pressure the overdrive unit is making as it functions or doesn't. See this link: http://webspace.webring.com/people/tj/jholekamp/ brgds, Jay From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 09:57:09 2010 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:57:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> Message-ID: <2094889729.13614281272643029813.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sounds like the starter solenoid is flaky. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >From time to time (more time than not), when I push the starter button there is a lag before the starter fully engages-like a "umph" than then it turns over. Battery is fully charged. New starter ground cable. Any suggestions? Carl BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ From rpschauss at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 10:16:04 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:16:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints Message-ID: While inspecting my drive shaft I noticed that there is about 1/16" of side to side play in the univeral joints. That is, if I grab the shaft, I can push it from side to side and I can see the ends of the spiders moving in and out in their needle bearings. There is no play if I twist the shaft. Is this normal. I replaced the u-joints last year and I doubt that I have more than 1000 miles on them. Thanks, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 10:27:19 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 18:27:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> <83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> I must disagree. On all drive shafts I have seen the yokes are paralell to each other. That is also the theory otherwise you cannot have a constant velocity for the in and out going shaft. Kees Oudesluijs NL David Nock wrote: > All driveshafts will be the same no matter if there are 2 or 3 > Universals in the shaft. The driving member at each end of the > driveshaft must be at 90 degrees to each other. > > Originally on all British cars there is an arrow stamped in the > sliding yoke, these should be aligned if the driveshaft is original. > If they are not there then look at the driving member on the front > yoke and the driving member on the rear yoke. They should be at 90 > degees to each other. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 10:32:16 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 18:32:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> References: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> Message-ID: <4BDB0610.5060501@chello.nl> The starter solenoid seems to be a bit sticky and the contacts engage only after the mechanical resistance in the solenoid has been overcome. Renew or take apart, clean and rebuild if you can. Kees Oudesluijs NL Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > >From time to time (more time than not), when I push the starter button there > is a lag before the starter fully engages-like a "umph" than then it turns > over. > > Battery is fully charged. New starter ground cable. > > Any suggestions? > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2844 - datum van uitgifte: 04/30/10 08:27:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 11:08:11 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 19:08:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl> There should be no play at all. Are the segerrings installed? Kees Oudesluijs NL Peter Schauss wrote: > While inspecting my drive shaft I noticed that there is about 1/16" of > side to side play in the univeral joints. That is, if I grab the > shaft, I can push it from side to side and I can see the ends of the > spiders moving in and out in their needle bearings. There is no play > if I twist the shaft. Is this normal. I replaced the u-joints last > year and I doubt that I have more than 1000 miles on them. > > Thanks, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2844 - datum van uitgifte: 04/30/10 08:27:00 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 30 11:15:45 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:15:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com><83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> Message-ID: Have to agree with Kees on this one. dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:27 AM To: David Nock Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment I must disagree. On all drive shafts I have seen the yokes are paralell to each other. That is also the theory otherwise you cannot have a constant velocity for the in and out going shaft. Kees Oudesluijs NL David Nock wrote: > All driveshafts will be the same no matter if there are 2 or 3 > Universals in the shaft. The driving member at each end of the > driveshaft must be at 90 degrees to each other. > > Originally on all British cars there is an arrow stamped in the > sliding yoke, these should be aligned if the driveshaft is original. > If they are not there then look at the driving member on the front > yoke and the driving member on the rear yoke. They should be at 90 > degees to each other. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From rpschauss at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 11:17:35 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints In-Reply-To: <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl> References: <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl> Message-ID: Segerrings? On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:08 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > There should be no play at all. Are the segerrings installed? > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Peter Schauss wrote: >> >> While inspecting my drive shaft I noticed that there is about 1/16" of >> side to side play in the univeral joints. That is, if I grab the >> shaft, I can push it from side to side and I can see the ends of the >> spiders moving in and out in their needle bearings. There is no play >> if I twist the shaft. Is this normal. I replaced the u-joints last >> year and I doubt that I have more than 1000 miles on them. >> >> Thanks, >> Peter Schauss >> 1963 BJ7 >> 1980 MGB >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: >> 271.1.1/2844 - datum van uitgifte: 04/30/10 08:27:00 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 30 11:17:50 2010 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:17:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] starting problem In-Reply-To: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> References: <8BEBB7F520A54D75BB97522D2EE05209@RubinoPC> Message-ID: <2DBDA19CDDD14B1C97D9D8CA22CD23A5@oscar> Also likely that the starter motor commutator is worn or brushes are nearly gone. dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 9:36 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] starting problem >From time to time (more time than not), when I push the starter button there is a lag before the starter fully engages-like a "umph" than then it turns over. Battery is fully charged. New starter ground cable. Any suggestions? Carl BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 11:21:52 2010 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:21:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com><83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> Message-ID: List, Quoting from The Good Book, a.k.a the 3000 Service Manual,: "When replacing the sliding joint on the shaft, be sure that the trunnions in the sliding and fixed yoke are in line. This can be checked by observing that arrows marked on the splined sleeve yoke and the splined stub shaft are in line." Ed Woods From ggilliam at usol.com Fri Apr 30 11:41:40 2010 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:41:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine condition Message-ID: Hey List, You may remember a couple weeks ago I asked for recommendations on allowable cylinder and crank journal wear. A few of you replied with good information. Upon further inspection of this BJ8 motor, I found that the top rings were broken on #4, 5 & 6 pistons. There was no obvious orientation of ring gaps, some pistons had 3 ring gaps in a line. The 2,3 & oil rings were stuck on #5 piston. The journals on the crank were a bit grooved, with all the grooves apparently in line with the oil holes. On the crank throws, #4 & 5 had what looked like restrictor inserts in the oil delivery port, and on # 5 it looked like it was loose and caused the grooves in the bearing shell...the most extensive of all. So I'm looking for any comment as to what is "normal" for a high mileage Healey engine, or any other relevant information. I suppose I am also looking for a recommendation of a qualified Healey engine machine shop in southern Michigan. Thanks in advance, Gordy From robertduquette at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 30 11:43:43 2010 From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 17:43:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints In-Reply-To: References: , <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl>, Message-ID: I think he means these:http://www.seeger-orbis.com/prod_basic_din471-472.php Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:17:35 -0400 > From: rpschauss at gmail.com > > Segerrings? > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:08 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > There should be no play at all. Are the segerrings installed? > > Kees Oudesluijs > > NL > > > > > > Peter Schauss wrote: > >> > >> While inspecting my drive shaft I noticed that there is about 1/16" of > >> side to side play in the univeral joints. That is, if I grab the > >> shaft, I can push it from side to side and I can see the ends of the > >> spiders moving in and out in their needle bearings. There is no play > >> if I twist the shaft. Is this normal. I replaced the u-joints last > >> year and I doubt that I have more than 1000 miles on them. > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Peter Schauss > >> 1963 BJ7 > >> 1980 MGB From jim_leblanc at yahoo.com Fri Apr 30 11:46:04 2010 From: jim_leblanc at yahoo.com (Jim LeBlanc) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 10:46:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed In-Reply-To: <000801cae853$47ed63f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <674257.40451.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Mark, I have always run 30 weight in my gearbox with no problems. It shifts better than when using 40 or 50 weight. Never, ever tried heavier oil. Often I put a quart of ATF to help preserve the rubber parts. When I read your note, I got the impression you are using oil that is way too heavy. Before taking the deep dive into the internal parts, try lighter oil. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Fri, 4/30/10, Mark LaPierre wrote: From: Mark LaPierre Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 3:52 AM I have read and reread my email notes from the past 12 years and nothing is fixing my problem. I have adjusted the solenoid according to all my manuals ( drill bit in the side lever of the trany} and even adjusted a little bit past the hole and it still won't engage by itself. I did get it to the point of working but occasionally it would not. This was before winter and before my attempt at trying to adjust it to get it to kick in every time. So now I'm back to the basics and have to reach across the trany and push the lever down manually to get it to engage. It has to be a hard push and even then it kicks out after a few seconds. The solenoid engages with a nice "snap" all the time and the throttle switch works properly, so I am almost there. When I had the adjustment set up a little past the hole I couldn't get it to kick in even if I pushed on the lever manually. ( I thought that was a bit strange so I went back to the lever being directly lined up with the hole) What a PITA this adjustment is when you do it by yourself. The trany cover is off, I can see the solenoid engage and the lever moves over the hole and I can stick the drill bit in the hole per the manual and notes. I took the valve ( steel ball, spring, rod etc.) out of the top and made sure all was clean and free of dirt and observed that the ball did move when the lever was over the hole in the side of the trany. My last ditch thought is that I am using the Redline MT90 rather than engine oil and maybe the trany just doesn't like this stuff for some reason. Man these tranys suck without overdrive. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim_leblanc at yahoo.com From rpschauss at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 11:46:09 2010 From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:46:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints In-Reply-To: References: <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl> Message-ID: The snap rings are in place. - Peter Schauss On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:43 PM, wrote: > I think he means these: > http://www.seeger-orbis.com/prod_basic_din471-472.php > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > >> Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:17:35 -0400 >> From: rpschauss at gmail.com >> >> Segerrings? >> >> On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:08 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> > There should be no play at all. Are the segerrings installed? >> > Kees Oudesluijs >> > NL >> > >> > >> > Peter Schauss wrote: >> >> >> >> While inspecting my drive shaft I noticed that there is about 1/16" of >> >> side to side play in the univeral joints. That is, if I grab the >> >> shaft, I can push it from side to side and I can see the ends of the >> >> spiders moving in and out in their needle bearings. There is no play >> >> if I twist the shaft. Is this normal. I replaced the u-joints last >> >> year and I doubt that I have more than 1000 miles on them. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Peter Schauss >> >> 1963 BJ7 >> >> 1980 MGB From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 30 11:52:40 2010 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 19:52:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Play in new universal joints In-Reply-To: References: <4BDB0E7B.6010604@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4BDB18E8.2020603@chello.nl> Sorry, Circlips. Kees Oudesluijs Peter Schauss wrote: > Segerrings? > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:08 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> There should be no play at all. Are the segerrings installed? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 12:05:41 2010 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:05:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com> <83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net> <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8E86E2BB-ADBA-46B6-AFBD-44FD4E1ED749@sbcglobal.net> Sorry I meant to say that the end driving members are parallel On Apr 30, 2010, at 9:27 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I must disagree. On all drive shafts I have seen the yokes are > paralell to each other. That is also the theory otherwise you > cannot have a constant velocity for the in and out going shaft. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > David Nock wrote: >> All driveshafts will be the same no matter if there are 2 or 3 >> Universals in the shaft. The driving member at each end of the >> driveshaft must be at 90 degrees to each other. >> >> Originally on all British cars there is an arrow stamped in the >> sliding yoke, these should be aligned if the driveshaft is >> original. If they are not there then look at the driving member >> on the front yoke and the driving member on the rear yoke. They >> should be at 90 degees to each other. >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca 95205 >> 209-948-8767 >> >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> . >> . From kags at shaw.ca Fri Apr 30 13:01:06 2010 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed References: <674257.40451.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2694F6D9D27D48FE9D9284850BC785D6@computer> Mark: Many of us are running Redline MTL or MT90 in out gearboxes with no problems. In fact, many of us have discovered that these oils which are designed for use in 'manual transaxles' produce a better feeling shift in our old-tech gearboxes without compromising the overdrive cone clutch in any way. Personally, I've run MT90 in several gearboxes for many years - it's a synthetic oil that is equivalent to an approx. 30 - 40 weight 'dinosaur' oil. (MTL is slightly lighter). Sorry to disagree with Jim - I doubt that your problem is the oil. The overdrive solenoid is a dual coil item. Are you sure that the holding coil is working correctly - if not, the overdrive will engage on the pull-up coil and then drop out on it's own - not necessarily right away. Otherwise I agree with the lister who recommended that a pressure reading be taken. If the pressure is marginal, overdrive operation can be erratic - depending upon oil temperature, gremlins, etc. If pressure is low, then you have a whole new dignostic procedure to get through to fing out why. Incidentally, I've found that most of the overdrives that I've worked on need to be adjusted slightly beyound the drill-in-the-hole setting because of wear in the operating valve mechanism - usually the valve itself. It's a touchy adjustment - the solenoid has to drop out the pull-up coil, or you'll burn it out quickly. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim LeBlanc" To: ; "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Ideas Needed Mark, I have always run 30 weight in my gearbox with no problems. It shifts better than when using 40 or 50 weight. Never, ever tried heavier oil. Often I put a quart of ATF to help preserve the rubber parts. When I read your note, I got the impression you are using oil that is way too heavy. Before taking the deep dive into the internal parts, try lighter oil. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 14:12:54 2010 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 22:12:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd Brake Light Message-ID: Well, guys, after two weeks I received my 3rd brake light out of Hong Kong. Purchased on eBay for 1 dollarcent plus 6.99 dollar shipping charges. It turns out to be just what I was looking for: a simple, adjustable 24 LED plastic thingy which can be fitted just behind the rear window with two self-adhesive 'feet'. I made some pictures of the animal, if you are interested just send me an e-mail and I'll send the pics. No financial interest, just a satisfied customer! Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 From jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri Apr 30 14:34:05 2010 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:34:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [bluegrassclub] Don Lenschow In-Reply-To: <65932538734125778609214595014852822918-Webmail@me.com> References: <65932538734125778609214595014852822918-Webmail@me.com> Message-ID: <8CCB6BB9C685D59-1F58-23A3@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> It is with great sadness that I write this morning. I just received a note that our good friend Don Lenschow passed away at his home in Texas this morning. Don was an incredible spirit and a gracious friend. Many of us came to know him during his visits at SpringThing. His hearty laugh and undeniably witty sense of humor will be greatly missed. Don's funeral will take place in Boyd, Texas on Monday. Then, his family is arranging for burial in his hometown of Sycamore, Illinois. I'm sure you'll join me in remember Don and keeping his wife Kay and the entire Lenschow family in our thoughts and prayers. He will be missed, but if Don taught me anything it's that laughter and friends can get you through even the most difficult situations. Regards, Ben -----Original Message----- From: Benjamin Moore To: bluegrassclub at yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 11:25 am Subject: [bluegrassclub] Don Lenschow Greeting Bluegrass members - It is with great sadness that I write this morning. I just received a note that our good friend Don Lenschow passed away at his home in Texas this morning. Don was an incredible spirit and a gracious friend. Many of us came to know him during his visits at SpringThing. His hearty laugh and undeniably witty sense of humor will be greatly missed. Don's funeral will take place in Boyd, Texas on Monday. Then, his family is arranging for burial in his hometown of Sycamore, Illinois. I'm sure you'll join me in remember Don and keeping his wife Kay and the entire Lenschow family in our thoughts and prayers. He will be missed, but if Don taught me anything it's that laughter and friends can get you through even the most difficult situations. Regards, Ben __._,_.___ Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3) Recent Activity: New Members 1 Visit Your Group Bluegrass Austin Healey Club Meetings are held on the fourth Tuesday of the month. Visit our web page at www.bluegrassclub.com for meeting location. To change your mail list account status contact information at bluegrassclub.com or visit the Bluegrass Club Mail List page at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bluegrassclub MARKETPLACE Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now. ------------------------------------------------------------ Welcome to Mom Connection! Share stories, news and more with moms like you. ------------------------------------------------------------ Hobbies & Activities Zone: Find others who share your passions! Explore new interests. Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest b" Unsubscribe b" Terms of Use . __,_._,___ From mark at bradakis.com Fri Apr 30 14:44:29 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:44:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd Brake Light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BDB412D.8030905@bradakis.com> Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > I made some pictures of the animal, if you are > interested just send me an e-mail and I'll send the pics. A reminder that one can post pictures in the Healey forum at http://www.team.net/forums mjb. From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 30 16:17:33 2010 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:17:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Don Lenschow Message-ID: <850499.42174.qm@web83911.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I just received a note that our good friend Don Lenschow passed away at his home in Texas this morning. Don was an incredible spirit and a gracious friend. Many of us came to know him during his visits at Healey Events. His hearty laugh and undeniably witty sense of humor will be greatly missed. Don was a member of both AHCUSA (Past-President) and AHCA and a long time meber of the North Texas AHC. Don's funeral will take place in Boyd, Texas on Monday. Burial will be in his hometown of Sycamore, Illinois. I'm sure you'll join in remembering Don and keeping his wife Kay and the entire Lenschow family in our thoughts and prayers. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Apr 30 17:12:30 2010 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 16:12:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Don Lenschow In-Reply-To: <850499.42174.qm@web83911.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <179474.56920.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> We can only hope there are miles of sunny skies, gentle breezes, long winding roads and top-down days awaiting us when we join our Healey friends. Godspeed, Don. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/30/10, Bob Brown wrote: From: Bob Brown Subject: [Healeys] Don Lenschow To: "Healey List" Date: Friday, April 30, 2010, 6:17 PM I just received a note that our good friend Don Lenschow passed away at his home in Texas this morning. Don was an incredible spirit and a gracious friend. Many of us came to know him during his visits at Healey Events. His hearty laugh and undeniably witty sense of humor will be greatly missed. Don was a member of both AHCUSA (Past-President) and AHCA and a long time meber of the North Texas AHC. Don's funeral will take place in Boyd, Texas on Monday. Burial will be in his hometown of Sycamore, Illinois. I'm sure you'll join in remembering Don and keeping his wife Kay and the entire Lenschow family in our thoughts and prayers. _______________________________________________ Healeys at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From ynotink at msn.com Fri Apr 30 21:26:14 2010 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 03:26:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment In-Reply-To: References: <4bda2305.29f88e0a.08b2.2c99@mx.google.com><83BB6C76-9551-4F67-A8DF-F4DEC421FCA9@sbcglobal.net>, <4BDB04E7.4020701@chello.nl>, Message-ID: I think Dave Nock's response is correct, but perhaps a little confusing. He says that the DRIVING yokes should be at 90 degrees. The first DRIVING yoke is on the slip joint and transmits torque to the first DRIVEN yoke. The second DRIVING yoke is on the end of the driveshaft and transmits torque to the second DRIVEN yoke which is attached to the differential. Thus the first DRIVEN yoke and the second DRIVING yoke (being on the ends of the driveshaft) are in the same plane while the DRIVING yokes are 90 degrees out. Bill Lawrence > From: frogeye at porterscustom.com > To: coudesluijs at chello.nl; healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:15:45 -0600 > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment > > Have to agree with Kees on this one. > dp > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:27 AM > To: David Nock > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment > > I must disagree. On all drive shafts I have seen the yokes are paralell > to each other. That is also the theory otherwise you cannot have a > constant velocity for the in and out going shaft. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > David Nock wrote: > > All driveshafts will be the same no matter if there are 2 or 3 > > Universals in the shaft. The driving member at each end of the > > driveshaft must be at 90 degrees to each other. > > > > Originally on all British cars there is an arrow stamped in the > > sliding yoke, these should be aligned if the driveshaft is original. > > If they are not there then look at the driving member on the front > > yoke and the driving member on the rear yoke. They should be at 90 > > degees to each other. > > > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > . > > . > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com