[Healeys] chassis painting: electro coating vs. powder coating

Oudesluys coudesluijs at chello.nl
Thu Oct 1 08:47:51 MDT 2009


Overhere it is a rather damp country with salt on the roads in winter. 
You should see the havoc played on powder coated parts and objects. Even 
intentionally outdoor objects like flues that are powder coated can rust 
away completely in a relative short time, the coat just falling of in 
large blisters once the coat, far worse than if they are primed and 
painted. The adhesion and corrosion resistance once damaged of the 
powder coat seems to be less than with the traditional way of painting.
The best way to preserve the chassis would be to have it dip galvanised 
after all repairs and other welding has been done. It would add some 
kilo's but it will stiffen the chassis and it will not rust in at least 
a lifetime.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Curt/Nancy Arndt schreef:
> Hi All,
>
> Powder coating is just paint applied electrostatically versus 
> chemically and as such perfectly suitable for the chassis as well as 
> most other parts on our cars.  As with traditionally allied paint, the 
> surface preparation is all important so if you can't powder coat then 
> you shouldn't paint either.
>
> I've heard these nonsense criticisms of powder coating from the 
> uninformed for years from folks who equate powder coating with 
> everything from porcelain enamel to who knows what.  They are all BS.
>
> I know one restorer who has been powder coating chassis for years with 
> great results.  He had even matched most Healey colors to include Old 
> English White and Healey Blue Metallic, however he's no longer in 
> business.  I as well as Roger Moment powder coat most everything to 
> include suspension parts, the entire rear end case, steering box 
> assembly, etc...  With that said it's hard to find a powdercoater with 
> an oven large enough to do a chassis let alone one willing to match 
> Healey colors, so I probably wont go this route on my car.
>
> My local powder coating shop has a neat technique where the parts are 
> phosphate coated after bead blasting and then the powder coat is 
> applied cool versus hot.  The result is a much thinner application 
> that is not too thick, 4 to 5 mils thickness versus the normal 7 to 8 
> mil thickness from the traditional application.  I also use Cardinal 
> brand which comes in varying grades of gloss 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 
> 90%.  I prefer 60% for most applications in black while Roger uses 
> 80%. This looks identical to paint with much greater durability.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA


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