[Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal

[Bob Spidell]

re: 
" if I remove flange nut 
and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a 
small hammer. Am I correct?" 

Yep. Note the flange and yoke are two separate parts--IIRC--tap on the yoke with plastic/dead blow hammer if possible. They're splined--duh--and should come off fairly easily unless they have never been removed (not likely) and are rusted up; if so, get your favorite penetrating oil and/or carefully warm the yoke. 

re: 
" To get to the oil seal the next step 
will be removal of the oil seal housing. " 

The seal is the usual type--like on a wheel bearing. Carefully hook it with a screwdriver with a bent tip or some other 'sneaky pete' type device (don't scratch the smooth pinion shaft surface). The new seal can be tapped back in with a large socket or a drift , being sure to do all sides equally (don't get the seal cocked in there). 


Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Schneider" <mandmschneider at comcast.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 9:20:37 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal 

Section J.5 of the Healey Workshop Manual for 100-6 and 3000 describes 
removal and replacement of the pinion oil seal. The text calls for 
the withdrawal of the pinion flange and pressed end-cover with Service 
Tool 18G2 (extractor for driving flange). I want to replace the oil 
seal. Of course I don't have too 18G2. My inspection of the exploded 
rear axle graphic in the manual suggests that if I remove flange nut 
and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a 
small hammer. Am I correct? To get to the oil seal the next step 
will be removal of the oil seal housing. Can someone offer a 
suggestion on accomplishing this step? It is the "pressed" term that 
causes concern. Thanks. 

Marks 3 
1966 BJ8 
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