From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 1 02:41:50 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 10:41:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration In-Reply-To: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net> References: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <49FAB5CE.1000809@chello.nl> Exhaust rattling against the frame or rearaxle somewhere? Kees Oudesluijs Peter Schauss schreef: > I have had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked out. > > - Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring leaves were > broken. I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that made no > difference. > > - Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok. > > - Rear shocks - They are tight. > > - Drive shaft contacting the hand brake cable - It was not. > > - Drive shaft contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It was > not. There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to > indicate that it had been hitting anything. > > - Splines on the wheel and hub extension - These are OK. > > - U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft. > What should I be looking for here? > > - Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and they don't make any > noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand. Is there any other way to check > them without taking them apart? > > Any other suggestions? > > - Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo >> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM >> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration >> >> I had a noise like that also. The nuts that hold on the brake are >> supposed >> to be half height nuts. I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration >> and >> or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 1 02:46:38 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 10:46:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Steel Fuel line (pipe) replacement suggestion In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090429230004.0206aa60@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <326010656.1756101240968254619.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20090429230004.0206aa60@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49FAB6EE.6060802@chello.nl> This is the reason why copper tubing for the brake lines is not allowed in some countries. It is widely used in the UK though. Kees Oudesluijs john spaur schreef: > Hi Tom, > > This may work for a fuel line but it would be a very bad idea for a > brake line. > > I am not a metallurgist but copper will work harden (from vibrations > and working it by hand or tools) and become brittle after time to a > point where it will fail. Take a piece of tubing and flex it > repeatedly and it will become very stiff. > > John > > At 01:24 AM 4/29/2009 +0000, tomleavy at comcast.net wrote: >> Hi Listers- >> >> ....I decided to zinc plate copper pipe (the soft, bendable type).... >> >> Regards, Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Fri May 1 06:18:35 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 08:18:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud In-Reply-To: References: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: These e-mail are out there because they work, they suck people into giving anything these e-mail ask for. You can usually take the link they want you to click on and either right click and open a new window or copy the link into a separate browser window and see where it goes. It usually goes to a different URL address than the company they advertise. But then again everybody know everything on the Internet is true, right! -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of insptwo at msn.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:53 PM To: healey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] paypal fraud Any email you might get from ANY COMPANY ETC that requests any info from you online, is bogus, there are no, I repeat NO companies that ask for your personal info, unless you are ordering something. Also forget about feeling safe if you see the "yellow lock" when being asked for the info. We get a bundle of complaints about this. I have even had email directed to my office requesting personal info. Talk about stupid! They are addressed to Seniors Vs. Crime Office, Project of the Florida Attorney General. Bill BJ7 > Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 13:54:20 -0700 > From: eyera3 at comcast.net > To: macep at macep.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud > > I got an official looking email from Paypal telling me that their was > unauthorized attempts to log into my account form an unknown computer. it > tells me to log in using their shortcut to confirm my password. > I sent it to paypal and they confirmed it was a spoof phising email. Forward > any emails that ask for email confirmation to confirm it came from the legit > site. > I have to say it looke dgood to me, but I thought I would be careful and > sent to paypal to confirm or deny. it was fake > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri May 1 06:43:22 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 14:43:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats In-Reply-To: <6969937847C0432EB7F85A3454F9F1B4@ophrdc.org> References: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BF16B@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> <6969937847C0432EB7F85A3454F9F1B4@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500583D389@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Hello Rich and others, my problem-parts are about midway back right and left side from the header rail to first top rail (about 4 to 5 inches back from the hold down catches), as at this point the top material is heavily clamped by the scissor action of the header rail and first top rail. And I see no way to avoid this. And a second point is the triangle left/right between the top rails (above the door catches). It was also scissor clamped and I see no way out to avoid this. I had no problem getting window strait and flat. Have to say my car is an early 1954. I did the car for concours, but anyway here in Europe I need to drive the car to the event on its own wheels and want to enjoy to drive with hood down. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Freitag, 1. Mai 2009 01:43 An: Eckert, Josef; healeys at Autox.Team.Net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats Josef, The nasty folding marks are probably caused by the material being crimped between the folding mechanism. This top frame can easily cause a scissor like action along the sides if the hood material gets between the pieces. When the hood header rail is brought back to the main bar, and the rear rail comes forward, don't let the hood material fold down between too deeply, no more than 6" or so. Keep the rear window as straight and flat as possible. The left and right triangular shaped "ears" need to fold inboard as smoothly and flat as possible making the fold as far inboard as the edge of the window. For the final collapse of the hood frame, keep the window flat and as vertical as possible. I try to tuck the portion between the bottom of the window and the rear bar under so it's slightly tucked beneath the spare tire envelope, rather than leave it hanging toward the tunnel or floor. Once it's all down, there should be a further slight collapse posible to clear the header bar from the seat backs better if you have the slotted side pivots which were introduced part way through 1954. Finally when everything is folded down the best possible, make sure the hold down catches don't spear or dig into the tonneau cover when fitted. They can be pivoted and turned down to clear hood material and tonneau cover. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 9:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats >I need the wisdom of the Healey 100 guys. > I folded my new top (hood) on my BN1 for the first time behind the seats > very carefully and when I put it up again, I have got nasty folding > marks, which do not disappear totally. > Is there any chance to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats avoiding > these really nasty marks on the top? Please give me some sort of > guidance how to fold this sh*ty top. > Thanks to all, > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri May 1 08:54:28 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 09:54:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration In-Reply-To: <49FAB5CE.1000809@chello.nl> References: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net> <49FAB5CE.1000809@chello.nl> Message-ID: <001801c9ca6c$bbe22ad0$33a68070$@net> Jerry, Are you referring to the nuts that secure the emergency brake handle assembly? The noise I have appears to come from the right rear, and only occurs on right hand turns, at any speed. It sounds like a intermediate rubbing or a skipping. Like Peter, everything has been checked and tightened with ho luck in eliminating the noise. The differential was rebuilt and all wheel bearings replaced about 2 years ago. U-joints are around 4 years old. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:42 AM To: Peter Schauss Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration Exhaust rattling against the frame or rearaxle somewhere? Kees Oudesluijs Peter Schauss schreef: > I have had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked out. > > - Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring leaves were > broken. I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that made no > difference. > > - Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok. > > - Rear shocks - They are tight. > > - Drive shaft contacting the hand brake cable - It was not. > > - Drive shaft contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It was > not. There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to > indicate that it had been hitting anything. > > - Splines on the wheel and hub extension - These are OK. > > - U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft. > What should I be looking for here? > > - Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and they don't make any > noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand. Is there any other way to check > them without taking them apart? > > Any other suggestions? > > - Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo >> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM >> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration >> >> I had a noise like that also. The nuts that hold on the brake are >> supposed >> to be half height nuts. I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration >> and >> or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft. From rdavies1 at cox.net Fri May 1 09:10:11 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 08:10:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud In-Reply-To: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com> References: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1A562D36F88B4D02B54B263860EC6DEA@OfficeDell> I got the same thing a few months ago from a fake WAMU (now Chase). Ron Davies From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri May 1 09:40:52 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 15:40:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud In-Reply-To: <1A562D36F88B4D02B54B263860EC6DEA@OfficeDell> Message-ID: <20090501154053.9Z1GB.315421.root@hrndva-web21-z01> I get such things on a regular basis, many times purporting to be from Banks I don't have an account with, I routinely delete them without looking at them, which raises the questions of whether I or others who do routinely delete these things would get notice if something actually occured. Kind of the boy who cried wolf problem. Greg Lemon From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Fri May 1 10:31:20 2009 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 16:31:20 GMT Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Top Install Message-ID: <20090501.093120.16926.1@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> I own the top and I own the top frame/bows. They are about 7 feet apart and have never been installed on the car, which is about 15 feet from the top/frame, etc. What I need to get this process moving is the pattern/location of the holes in the inner dogleg to properly position the whole works. Any ideas? TIA Mike Gougeon 56BN2 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 1 10:59:21 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 12:59:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud In-Reply-To: <20090501154053.9Z1GB.315421.root@hrndva-web21-z01> References: <1A562D36F88B4D02B54B263860EC6DEA@OfficeDell> <20090501154053.9Z1GB.315421.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Message-ID: <003d01c9ca7e$2d3de190$87b9a4b0$@net> I know that it is a pain in the neck changing but I have not received one single spam item on either of my email accounts that I set up with Verizon almost a year ago. Of course, I rarely give my email address out and when I do, it is always one of the Optonline accounts that were and still are loaded with spam. One word of advice, never try to click on the opt out feature of these spam messages. That only tells the spammers that the address to which they send the spam is a real address and you most certainly will get more. With many of these spam messages, if you hover (don't click) over the url given you will see that it is obviously directing you to an incorrect site. Better still, just don't ever open anything that is asking for information because, just think, your legitimate banks, etc. already have that information so why would threy be asking for it. Of course, I routinely respond to the ones saying that I have a bizzillion dollars waiting for me in Nigeria. All of that money goes into my off shore account in Never-Never Land. One of these fays I will have enough to buy a Tanner restoration. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 11:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] paypal fraud I get such things on a regular basis, many times purporting to be from Banks I don't have an account with, I routinely delete them without looking at them, which raises the questions of whether I or others who do routinely delete these things would get notice if something actually occured. Kind of the boy who cried wolf problem. Greg Lemon Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From wsthompson at thicko.com Fri May 1 11:39:35 2009 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 12:39:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Walter on Ebay Message-ID: <004301c9ca83$ccfc67b0$66f53710$@com> Walter will be on Ebay tonight, Item number: 330326887707 Also, currently for sale in Hemmings. From wpollock at inbox.com Fri May 1 13:40:59 2009 From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 15:40:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] cars for sale Message-ID: This posting is for a friend who is down sizing and he and his wife are moving from the area. No financial interest of anykind in either car. 73 Jensen Healey,vin 13600,current mileage 66600 miles,. Owner purchased in 1980 in Mississippi and has owned since than. Has Weber carbs, electronic ignition,ss brake lines installed by Precision Performance of Wilton CT in 1990. Car has a luggage rack and removable fiberglass hardtop with sun roof from SNUG Tops of Calif. . There are also spare parts from a wrecked 73 Jensen that come with the car. Owner wants to sell everything as a package. Datsun 240Z,vin 3092666,owned since 1982. Has 92700 miles. Body and frame restoraton were done in 1984 by Precision Performance, Wilton CT. Owner has some spare parts. Both cars have been kept in a heated garage. Cars located in southern CT near Interstate 95. Contact Paul at this email-- ICNeal at aol.com. Bill Pollock ____________________________________________________________ GET FREE SMILEYS FOR YOUR IM & EMAIL - Learn more at http://www.inbox.com/smileys Works with AIM., MSN. Messenger, Yahoo!. Messenger, ICQ., Google TalkT and most webmails From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri May 1 14:41:15 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 15:41:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Paypal Froud now Computer Fraud Message-ID: <48720d20905011341q4b38fe11mc73df6ded24d7104@mail.gmail.com> Other than the emails that start "Dear Heart," my favorite was the email that told me I had won a Google contest. The humor? I was told to go to a UK web site and the payoff was in Pounds Sterling! What worries me is that somewhere out there there must be folks who respond. Jack From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri May 1 17:56:17 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 07:56:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration In-Reply-To: <001801c9ca6c$bbe22ad0$33a68070$@net> References: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net> <49FAB5CE.1000809@chello.nl> <001801c9ca6c$bbe22ad0$33a68070$@net> Message-ID: Ron - Hearing this, I'd reccomend taking both drums off and inspecting the bearing hubs to make sure they are bolted on TIGHT. If loose, not only dangerous, but may be causing the symptoms you are talking about. Alan On 5/1/09, Ron Ray wrote: > Jerry, > > Are you referring to the nuts that secure the emergency brake handle > assembly? > > The noise I have appears to come from the right rear, and only occurs on > right hand turns, at any speed. > It sounds like a intermediate rubbing or a skipping. > > Like Peter, everything has been checked and tightened with ho luck in > eliminating the noise. > The differential was rebuilt and all wheel bearings replaced about 2 years > ago. > U-joints are around 4 years old. > > Ron > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:42 AM > To: Peter Schauss > Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration > > Exhaust rattling against the frame or rearaxle somewhere? > Kees Oudesluijs > > Peter Schauss schreef: >> I have had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked out. >> >> - Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring leaves were >> broken. I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that made no >> difference. >> >> - Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok. >> >> - Rear shocks - They are tight. >> >> - Drive shaft contacting the hand brake cable - It was not. >> >> - Drive shaft contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It > was >> not. There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to >> indicate that it had been hitting anything. >> >> - Splines on the wheel and hub extension - These are OK. >> >> - U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft. >> What should I be looking for here? >> >> - Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and they don't make > any >> noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand. Is there any other way to > check >> them without taking them apart? >> >> Any other suggestions? >> >> - Peter Schauss >> 1963 BJ7 >> 1980 MGB >> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo >>> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM >>> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration >>> >>> I had a noise like that also. The nuts that hold on the brake are >>> supposed >>> to be half height nuts. I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration >>> and >>> or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From mandmschneider at comcast.net Fri May 1 23:39:34 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 22:39:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paypal Message-ID: <807B336D-B8F3-4384-BBE5-C7E6827D148F@comcast.net> I had my own experience with Paypal. I too received the recent Paypal phishing expedition. However, my experience with Paypal started last December. I sold some antiques and received the buyers' payment via Paypal. I knew when the buyer's funds hit my account because they had sent me a separate email. I had never dealt with Paypal of selling something via the Internet. So the next morning I checked my account to see if the money had been credited. In fact I learned that the my funds were gone, the account had been closed, and my American Express card number had been used to purchase an additional $250.00 worth of merchandise over and above the funds I shouldl have received from the buyer. the culprit had orchestrated al of this from the Philippines. It took me about three months to get the issue straightened out. I did come out OK but only because I can be pretty stubborn when I feel screwed. the worst of this situation was I found it absolutely frustrating and difficult to deal with Paypal. I was never able to talk to the same person twice and it took me a week of effort to get to talk to the first live human being. My advice, stay away from Paypal. Their internal security sucks almost as bad as their customer service. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat May 2 00:15:57 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 01:15:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Paypal In-Reply-To: <807B336D-B8F3-4384-BBE5-C7E6827D148F@comcast.net> References: <807B336D-B8F3-4384-BBE5-C7E6827D148F@comcast.net> Message-ID: Unfortunately your experience seems to be the way of the world these days, if you have a problem with pretty much any large company, especially internet or IT based, it is hard to reach a person, if you do many times you get a call center in India or wherever, the call center likely contracts with with the company you are trying to call and they have a script of answers they can give you, if what you want is outside the script you are basically out of luck. I have had problems with both a internet service provider that wouldn't let me cancel and one time software use/purchase that was made recurring with two different companies. The first was only resolved when I contacted the consumer protection division of the state Atty General's Office, the latter I ultimately wrote off the 40 or so bucks I got charged that I did no authorize, just decided it wasn't worth all the trouble. Best exchange I had, after being assured an account was canceled then getting charged again I called the "customer service" people, they were very sorry and would take care of it, me: could I get that in writing? them: no Im sorry we can't do that? me: you don't have access to a printer or E-mail? me: sorry can't help you it is taken care of me: like it was last time before you charged me again? Many companies will only do business with you these days by allowing direct payment from your account, giving them access to withdraw. I talked to my bank when I had trouble with one of these types of arrangements, asked them to cancel the authority to access. They stated they can't cancel the authority to access, and in fact once granted they can take out as much money from the account as they want anytime they want. I had assumed I was only giving access to withdraw xx dollars once a month as per the agreement I made with the company. I asked what if they took more then authorized, bank said I could get it reversed, I said what if they have taken the money and closed their bank account and are vacationing in the bahamas, he did not have a good answer. Sorry for the long message, but bottom line be careful allowing access to your accounts. Greg Lemon From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Sat May 2 07:48:01 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 06:48:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paypal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have experienced attempting stop automatic withdrawal and found, A,) the bank CAN stop the automatic withdrawal, but you have reach the right person. Most bank employees think it cannot be stopped by the bank. B.) Cancel the account. All withdrawals cease. Greg Lemonglemon at neb.rr.com > Unfortunately your experience seems to be the way of the world these days, > if you have a problem with pretty much any large company, especially > internet or IT based, it is hard to reach a person, if you do many times > you get a call center in India or wherever, the call center likely contracts > with with the company you are trying to call and they have a script of > answers they can give you, if what you want is outside the script you are > basically out of luck. > > I have had problems with both a internet service provider that wouldn't let > me cancel and one time software use/purchase that was made recurring with > two different companies. > > The first was only resolved when I contacted the consumer protection > division of the state Atty General's Office, the latter I ultimately wrote > off the 40 or so bucks I got charged that I did no authorize, just decided > it wasn't worth all the trouble. > > Best exchange I had, after being assured an account was canceled then > getting charged again I called the "customer service" people, they were very > sorry and would take care of it, > > me: could I get that in writing? > them: no Im sorry we can't do that? > me: you don't have access to a printer or E-mail? > me: sorry can't help you it is taken care of > me: like it was last time before you charged me again? > > Many companies will only do business with you these days by allowing direct > payment from your account, giving them access to withdraw. > > I talked to my bank when I had trouble with one of these types of > arrangements, asked them to cancel the authority to access. > > They stated they can't cancel the authority to access, and in fact once > granted they can take out as much money from the account as they want > anytime they want. I had assumed I was only giving access to withdraw xx > dollars once a month as per the agreement I made with the company. > > I asked what if they took more then authorized, bank said I could get it > reversed, I said what if they have taken the money and closed their bank > account and are vacationing in the bahamas, he did not have a good answer. > > Sorry for the long message, but bottom line be careful allowing access to > your accounts. > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From info at atteanlodge.com Sat May 2 08:44:15 2009 From: info at atteanlodge.com (Attean Lake Lodge) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 10:44:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb coupling shaft Message-ID: Could someone tell me how to install the carb coupling shaft after the carbs have already been installed?? Do I have to take them off and install as one unit or can I slide the fork on the front carb back enough to get the shaft in place. Per usual any help will be much appreciated. Brad Holden 67 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 2 09:16:22 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 23:16:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb coupling shaft In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad - On the BJ8 you have to install the carbs and shaft as one unit as the coupling shaft slots in the thottle shaft arms. Alan On 5/2/09, Attean Lake Lodge wrote: > Could someone tell me how to install the carb coupling shaft after the carbs > have already been installed?? Do I have to take them off and install as one > unit or can I slide the fork on the front carb back enough to get the shaft > in > place. Per usual any help will be much appreciated. > > Brad Holden > 67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sat May 2 12:33:01 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 13:33:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] PayPal caution Message-ID: <48720d20905021133r1b3ced37rba5fd9d282d2f336@mail.gmail.com> I have yet to read an article about using PayPal that didn't say to only use a credit card. PayPal is a swamp, and the requirement that you have to list a bank account is ludicrous. When I was required to do so I went to my friendly banker and we established a second checking account that has less than $100 in it. I never use it. I always click on the alternate method of payment and use my credit card. If I have trouble with a vendor I don't even try to get PayPal to deal with it. I go straight to the credit card company. Most often that is because I have had vendors who never answer my emails, or just disappear. When I had trouble my bank just laughed at me. They are willing to charge an exorbitant amount to stop a check, but do nothing about electronic transfers. . No matter how much I want something I would never give access to my bank account to any vendor. In have noticed that I no longer have to answer the question about am I sure I want to use an alternate (not bank account) method of payment. Jack From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Sat May 2 12:42:21 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 13:42:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! Message-ID: <48720d20905021142r2585db8ai4436f74b0d5e35e0@mail.gmail.com> Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a black textured vinyl. The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had no trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 years and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about 2 inches from the headliner. What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have hard tops store theirs. Jack From info at atteanlodge.com Sat May 2 13:28:24 2009 From: info at atteanlodge.com (Attean Lake Lodge) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 15:28:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable question Message-ID: <3912E655959F404EAE1268B6B92D0E71@PC1> Here I am again, should the barrel ends of the choke cables be forced into the remote control block holes? If so, how? I am assuming that the block should hold the cable ends rigid? I can think of heating the block causing it to expand but don't know if that is too extreme. Thanks for previous and future help. Brad Holden 67 BJ8 From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Sat May 2 14:51:06 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 13:51:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! In-Reply-To: <48720d20905021142r2585db8ai4436f74b0d5e35e0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: A cradle made from nylon webbing, hung from the garage ceiling, using a small block and tackle arrangement to lift it. Stored in the air it is off the floor, away from scratches and bumps and takes no room. Jack Feldmanqualitas.jack at gmail.com > Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now > since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint > job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a black > textured vinyl. > > The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had no > trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 years > and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. > > While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about 2 > inches from the headliner. > > What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? > > Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he > had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. > > I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have > hard tops store theirs. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat May 2 16:47:34 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 15:47:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] annoying parts Message-ID: <380280.54393.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> finally got around to putting in a high torque starter and sure as s--t it doesn't fit according to plan From rkorn at simnet.is Sat May 2 17:04:09 2009 From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn) Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 23:04:09 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? Message-ID: <43C91A041D124F6E899BE9B46787BEA6@velad> Dear List, I4m going to Georgia, not as in Atlanta but as in Tbilisi, in the middle of May and was wondering if there are any Healeys there to see? Richard BN2 From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon May 4 21:33:01 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 22:33:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List Message-ID: Is the list down? From geatros at shaw.ca Tue May 5 10:02:41 2009 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 09:02:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Test Message-ID: <49C3609B8B3C4CF6AD8FCED4EDE020C7@soloPC> Test From gbrierton at hotmail.com Mon May 4 07:30:10 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 09:30:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: test From ampole at hotmail.com Mon May 4 15:52:45 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 21:52:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable question In-Reply-To: <3912E655959F404EAE1268B6B92D0E71@PC1> References: <3912E655959F404EAE1268B6B92D0E71@PC1> Message-ID: Brad The secondary choke cable are the thin cable with barrel on one end only and a metal flexible outer sheaf that will slide off the open end. The bj8 also had a plastic black outer cover. Slide the thin cable thru the choke block holes from the bulkhead end and then thru the choke bracket screwed to the bulkhead. The outer metal sheaf can then be slid up from the carb / open end till it sits in the small tubes on the bracket. Then slide on the black plastic outer cover (I used pnuematic nylon air tube), its end will slide over the tube on the bracket. The other end of the cable has a bracket again with a small tube welded to it that the metal cable sits in and the plastic outer covers. It is fixed to the air filter fixing stud that mates with the carb. A choke pin assembly is like a trunnion, and goes thru the choke arm on the carb and then has the thin cable locked to it with a nut. Now when you pull the choke main cable it will pull the block and secondary cables and so pull the choke arms up. The main choke cable returns when you push the knob in, but the secondary cables/ choke arms need springs to return. These are fixed onto the pin ass'y / arms and points on the inner wing reinforcement strut. Hope that helps Andy _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/ From quenty at ntelos.net Sun May 3 15:27:24 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 17:27:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: <7E518A21-6B0E-46B4-BB0F-1C10FF78D6D6@ntelos.net> From rnbmail at yahoo.com Tue May 5 10:34:07 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 09:34:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List - testing - anybody out there? Message-ID: <869336.9274.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi listers, no listing emails for a few days - are we down? Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue May 5 12:28:50 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 14:28:50 EDT Subject: [Healeys] List - testing - anybody out there? Message-ID: Not down for me, just quiet ... yeah, seems a bit weird but I'm sure it will pick up. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 5/5/2009 11:24:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rnbmail at yahoo.com writes: Hi listers, no listing emails for a few days - are we down? Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as atightprod at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd =May5509AvgfooterNO115) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue May 5 12:31:38 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:31:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List - testing - anybody out there? In-Reply-To: <869336.9274.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <581943.2018.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Not anymore! No messages from the extremely chatty Spridget list, either, so I suspect the problem was on Mark's end. --- On Tue, 5/5/09, Robert Blair wrote: From: Robert Blair Subject: [Healeys] List - testing - anybody out there? To: "Healey List" Date: Tuesday, May 5, 2009, 12:34 PM Hi listers, no listing emails for a few days - are we down? Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From rwil at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 12:33:43 2009 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 11:33:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2i1105l99pfalnm9u39qreipoi909jb9lf@4ax.com> your email got through. Maybe MJB was tweaking his servers today or something. I remember a posting from him to that effect a few days ago. -Roland On Mon, 4 May 2009 22:33:01 -0500, you wrote: ::Is the list down? From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon May 4 04:08:29 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 04 May 2009 06:08:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! In-Reply-To: <48720d20905021142r2585db8ai4436f74b0d5e35e0@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20905021142r2585db8ai4436f74b0d5e35e0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49FEBE9D.8070806@earthlink.net> Jack, The black textured vinyl on my BT7's hard top is on the outside :^) I"m 6' 9" and I modified the lower seat frame so it's an inch closer to the gearbox and back a couple of inches. That allowed me to raise the pivot point for the seat back and tilt it back a fair bit. The car has a dished 15" Mota-Lita steering wheel which helps with the leg room. My hair will brush against the headliner. Bob Jack Feldman wrote: > Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now > since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint > job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a black > textured vinyl. > > The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had no > trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 years > and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. > > While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about 2 > inches from the headliner. > > What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? > > Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he > had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. > > I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have > hard tops store theirs. > > Jack From jjkbj7 at yahoo.com Tue May 5 10:58:27 2009 From: jjkbj7 at yahoo.com (John Kuzman) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 09:58:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] List? Message-ID: <834086.3299.qm@web50307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Is the list down? From thewalkers at qwest.net Mon May 4 22:26:52 2009 From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers) Date: Mon, 04 May 2009 21:26:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A sighting, but, alas, not a survivor... Message-ID: <49FFC00C.5070301@qwest.net> Please look through the photos, one can recognize the frame underneath... http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1180626813/1180626813ss.htm bob walker phoenix, az From rd_parker at juno.com Mon May 4 18:15:33 2009 From: rd_parker at juno.com (Robert PARKER) Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 17:15:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Question. Message-ID: <20090504.171533.3568.0.rd_parker@juno.com> What happened; I am not receiving any more messages? Bob. ____________________________________________________________ Prices, software, charts & analysis. Click here to open your online FX trading account. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIyVhUbQQ83shK5CkXKKE1DZry9l4tb1mNs6n7MxpTUfxMUsKqWP2/ From rdavies1 at cox.net Tue May 5 13:21:28 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 12:21:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List? In-Reply-To: <834086.3299.qm@web50307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <834086.3299.qm@web50307.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <925C5FE8146F435490BB423D5D175DDF@OfficeDell> I got your message. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Kuzman Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 9:58 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] List? Is the list down? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as rdavies1 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 04:23:26 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 06:23:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! References: <48720d20905021142r2585db8ai4436f74b0d5e35e0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000a01c9cd6b$87e709b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I have made good use of every hard top that I have ever owned. Sold all of them and put the money into something really useful for the car or kids future. They are a PITA to store and the usage doesn't equal the expense at all . May pay off when you sell but it has to be to a real purist cause the casual observer/ driver, wants a top down car not a hard top car. Just my 2cents on experiences with hard tops. FWIW, for more room, remove hard top. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:42 PM Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! > Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now > since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint > job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a black > textured vinyl. > > The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had no > trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 years > and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. > > While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about > 2 > inches from the headliner. > > What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? > > Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he > had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. > > I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have > hard tops store theirs. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 57healey at gmail.com Tue May 5 13:54:31 2009 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 14:54:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A sighting, but, alas, not a survivor... In-Reply-To: <49FFC00C.5070301@qwest.net> References: <49FFC00C.5070301@qwest.net> Message-ID: <743b1e2f0905051254n750e2d78nc8cb3a82cd8eca07@mail.gmail.com> Some Devin's are worth $$$$ On Mon, May 4, 2009 at 11:26 PM, the walkers wrote: > Please look through the photos, one can recognize the frame underneath... > > > http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1180626813/1180626813ss.htm -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 From dthall at btinternet.com Tue May 5 10:16:18 2009 From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 16:16:18 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <478660.28713.qm@web86406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Test David Hall From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue May 5 14:19:09 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] email server Message-ID: <173126440905051319x30464b53i2e4f4c9c200e7f73@mail.gmail.com> Mark, sent out an email telling us he was doing service on the servers and email could be interrupted. I guess it was :) Ira Erbs Computer Teacher and Healey owner, -- I Erbs Portland, OR From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 2 18:11:02 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 08:11:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable question In-Reply-To: <3912E655959F404EAE1268B6B92D0E71@PC1> References: <3912E655959F404EAE1268B6B92D0E71@PC1> Message-ID: Brad - Originally thes cable ends fit loose in the choke block. I have noticed the replacements sold by all the vendors are too large, however, and the don't fit in the choke block now. If you have a dremel tool, I'd recommend sanding down the surface of the cable end until it fits the cable block. Alan On 5/3/09, Attean Lake Lodge wrote: > Here I am again, should the barrel ends of the choke cables be forced into > the > remote control block holes? If so, how? I am assuming that the block should > hold the cable ends rigid? I can think of heating the block causing it to > expand but don't know if that is too extreme. Thanks for previous and future > help. > Brad Holden > 67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From ruvino at ripnet.com Mon May 4 18:16:43 2009 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino) Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 20:16:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] rotors Message-ID: <3C8AFB2D28584C99AD1904FF98244D64@RubinoPC> Just saw an advert from advanced distributors for "proper" rotors. any comments? From bighealey at charter.net Tue May 5 14:46:44 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:46:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! In-Reply-To: <000a01c9cd6b$87e709b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <20090505164644.8U2C0.2137369.root@mp07> Mark, Come run a rally with us in the snow then tell us how pure you want to be. I get your point but there are times when a hard top is really practical. Cheers T ---- Mark LaPierre wrote: > I have made good use of every hard top that I have ever owned. Sold all of > them and put > the money into something really useful for the car or kids future. They > are a PITA to store and the usage doesn't equal the expense at all . May > pay off when you sell but it has to be to a real purist > cause the casual observer/ driver, wants a top down car not a hard top car. > > Just my 2cents on experiences with hard tops. > > FWIW, for more room, remove hard top. > > Mark > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jack Feldman" > To: > Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:42 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! > > > > Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now > > since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint > > job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a black > > textured vinyl. > > > > The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had no > > trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 years > > and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. > > > > While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about > > 2 > > inches from the headliner. > > > > What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? > > > > Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he > > had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. > > > > I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have > > hard tops store theirs. > > > > Jack > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun May 3 20:14:33 2009 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 19:14:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front shock mounting plate Message-ID: <005001c9cc5e$10f825e0$9101a8c0@home> While doing my annual routine maintenance, checking the front shock mounting bolts revealed the right front outboard bolt was a bit loose. Unfortunately, it would not tighten down. In reading Tech Talk, it sounds like there is a captive nut welded to the mounting plate. It does not feel stripped, but more like the nut is still relatively tight but turning. It also appears that the spring needs to be removed to gain access to the underside of the mounting plate. So, several questions: 1. Is there, in fact, a nut welded on the mounting plate? 2. If so, can the spring be dropped without having to remove the lower A-arms? 3. And if so, is it fairly straight forward to get up in there to reweld the nut, or is it more involved? Thanks. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA From dan at warner-associates.com Tue May 5 14:51:25 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 15:51:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rotors In-Reply-To: <3C8AFB2D28584C99AD1904FF98244D64@RubinoPC> Message-ID: I have 3 and they appear to be of good quality. No problems yet. Jeff @ Advanced is pretty fussy with everything else and I see the same rotor for sale for more by others for more. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:17 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] rotors Just saw an advert from advanced distributors for "proper" rotors. any comments? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 5 15:48:27 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 21:48:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Front shock mounting plate In-Reply-To: <005001c9cc5e$10f825e0$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: <394149636.4161921241560107922.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The 'captive nut' is spot-welded to the underside of the plate. If the bolt won't tighten a) the spot welds have broken loose or b) the nut is stripped (my guess). If the nut is stripped you can use a thread repair kit (I've done this successfully). If the nut has broken loose, you'll need to loosen the shock enough to get a MIG wire on the nut and tack it well enough to keep it from dropping when you remove the bolt (if it drops you might be able to capture it with a magnetic parts chaser, then tack weld, but you might end up misaligned with the shock bolt hole). The hole is larger than the diameter of the bolt thread (3/8" x 24) and you should be able (note: I haven't done this) run a bead--or a few spotwelds--around the edge of the hole and the nut, then file flat and chase the threads. You can put the car on jackstands--Darwin warnings apply here--with the front jackstands securely under the 'point' of the A-arms. The weight of the car will keep the spring compressed while you loosen the shock (you shouldn't have to break the upper trunnion), but if the car gets knocked off the jackstands you'll have a spring projectile (in addition to a crunched car). I've done this, but only for 'quick' repairs; the better (safer) option is to drop the spring through the A-arms (you don't have to remove the A-arms, use some long bolts or allthread to replace the bolts one at a time then loosen them in sequence). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Healey Bruce" To: "Healey Mail Group" Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2009 7:14:33 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Front shock mounting plate While doing my annual routine maintenance, checking the front shock mounting bolts revealed the right front outboard bolt was a bit loose. Unfortunately, it would not tighten down. In reading Tech Talk, it sounds like there is a captive nut welded to the mounting plate. It does not feel stripped, but more like the nut is still relatively tight but turning. It also appears that the spring needs to be removed to gain access to the underside of the mounting plate. So, several questions: 1. Is there, in fact, a nut welded on the mounting plate? 2. If so, can the spring be dropped without having to remove the lower A-arms? 3. And if so, is it fairly straight forward to get up in there to reweld the nut, or is it more involved? Thanks. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA From schauss at worldnet.att.net Tue May 5 15:48:53 2009 From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:48:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front shock mounting plate In-Reply-To: <005001c9cc5e$10f825e0$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: <20090505214848.CE3D3187647@autox.team.net> Bruce, Yes, but it may not help. The springs sit on a plate which bolts to the bottom of the A-arms. You can remove the springs by constricting them with a spring compressor and then unbolting the plate. I don't think that you can get at the captive nuts, however, without removing the mounting plate. - Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey Bruce > Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 10:15 PM > To: Healey Mail Group > Subject: [Healeys] Front shock mounting plate > > While doing my annual routine maintenance, checking the front shock > mounting > bolts revealed the right front outboard bolt was a bit loose. > Unfortunately, it would not tighten down. In reading Tech Talk, it sounds > like there is a captive nut welded to the mounting plate. It does not > feel > stripped, but more like the nut is still relatively tight but turning. It > also appears that the spring needs to be removed to gain access to the > underside of the mounting plate. So, several questions: > > 1. Is there, in fact, a nut welded on the mounting plate? > 2. If so, can the spring be dropped without having to remove the lower > A-arms? > 3. And if so, is it fairly straight forward to get up in there to reweld > the nut, or is it more involved? > > Thanks. > > Bruce Steele > 1960 BN7 > Brea, CA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue May 5 15:58:19 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:58:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Factory Hard Top! Message-ID: <9A8F39E60396497FBF278CF453ABF2C5@ophrdc.org> Many years ago (late 70's through mid 80's)when I owned my tricarb BT7, it came with not only the original soft top which fit fantastic and never leaked, but it also came with a factory hardtop. We used the hard top every spring and fall for about 6 weeks each when the nights were almost down to freezing but there was no snow, therefore no salt yet. It saved the soft top from being covered in frost, and with excellent fitting sidescreens, turned the car into a snug little coupe. No real problem storing the hard top over the sulmmer in the garden shed with a cotton dust cover over it. Rich Chrysler From bighealey at charter.net Tue May 5 16:13:08 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 15:13:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] rotors In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090505181308.QF436.2168803.root@mp11> I am running one of the "Red Rotors" from Jeff. It looks like a Lucas rotor (the ones without the rivets) except it has the spring retaining clip inside which I like since it is snug. Really pleased so far. I have to say Jeff does really top work. I don't usually plug vendors often but two stand out Jeff at Advanced Distributors and the guys at RAS (Rocker Arm Specialists) who did the rocker arm. No financial interest blah blah disclaimer no animals were killed or injured during the posting of these comments blah blah............... Cheers !! ---- Dan Stromquist wrote: > I have 3 and they appear to be of good quality. No problems yet. Jeff @ > Advanced is pretty fussy with everything else and I see the same rotor for > sale for more by others for more. > Dan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:17 PM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] rotors > > Just saw an advert from advanced distributors for "proper" rotors. any > comments? > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sat May 2 17:16:35 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 18:16:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! References: Message-ID: jack, i'm 6-3 and my head now comes within 1/2" of the headliner. my driver side seat foam was the hard restoration foam installed in 1992. in 16 years it has never had any settling. first i drilled all the holes as outlined in the nock article and this did very little to loosen up the foam so i sliced about 2" off the bottom of the foam. i love my new ht and it is on to stay. cheers, jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Hartfield" To: "Jack Feldman" ; Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 3:51 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! >A cradle made from nylon webbing, hung from the garage ceiling, using a > small block and tackle arrangement to lift it. Stored in the air it is > off > the floor, away from scratches and bumps and takes no room. > > > Jack Feldmanqualitas.jack at gmail.com > >> Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now >> since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint >> job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done in a >> black >> textured vinyl. >> >> The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my bugeye I had >> no >> trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that was 45 >> years >> and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. >> >> While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my 5'7" is about >> 2 >> inches from the headliner. >> >> What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? >> >> Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he >> had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. >> >> I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have >> hard tops store theirs. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jwbn6 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 4 19:05:30 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 04 May 2009 21:05:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: <005801c9cd1d$96142ca0$c23c85e0$@net> Test last message received from the list ws 7pm on Saturday. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 2 22:40:17 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 12:40:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? In-Reply-To: <43C91A041D124F6E899BE9B46787BEA6@velad> References: <43C91A041D124F6E899BE9B46787BEA6@velad> Message-ID: Richard - Georgia is not the wealthiest place. I am sure there are a lot of nice trabbies and a few Mercs for the Neveau Riche! Alan On 5/3/09, Richard Korn wrote: > Dear List, > > I4m going to Georgia, not as in Atlanta but as in Tbilisi, in the middle of > May and was wondering if there are any Healeys there to see? > > > Richard > BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Tue May 5 20:44:01 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 22:44:01 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? Message-ID: I just attended the Walter Mitty Races at Road Atlanta in Braselton, GA. There were quite a few Healeys that were parked in the British Car Corral. Some were quite nice. Not sure the Georgians would feel flattered by your comment Alan. Cheers, Gary **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd =May5509AvgfooterNO115) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue May 5 20:54:24 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 22:54:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01c9cdf5$f72af900$e580eb00$@net> The thread is about the country of Georgia which was part of the former Soviet Union -- not the state of Georgia which is part of the US and therefore Alan is absolutely correct. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of GSFuqua1 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 10:44 PM To: healey.nut at gmail.com; rkorn at simnet.is; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? I just attended the Walter Mitty Races at Road Atlanta in Braselton, GA. There were quite a few Healeys that were parked in the British Car Corral. Some were quite nice. Not sure the Georgians would feel flattered by your comment Alan. Cheers, Gary From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Tue May 5 21:06:42 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 23:06:42 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? Message-ID: Ha ha, I reread the initial message and completely missed it. Yes, I have been to that Georgia too and would definitely agree with Alan there. Sorry, must be getting old or something. Cheers, Gary **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd =May5509AvgfooterNO115) From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 5 21:22:34 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:22:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary - Hey I used to live in that Georgia. I even bought a '68 Ford Bronco from an Atlanta glass blower with little painted decorations from the same guy who painted the General Lee in the Dukes of Hazzard. Bizarrely, I had earlier tried to purchase a '66 Bronco from an old guy who lived next to Stone Mountain and he refused to sell to me because he figured that I wasn't 100% white. Boy, those were the good old (boy) days. One thing I did note about rural Georgia, everyone seemed to drive cars that were much nicer than they probably could realistically afford! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 11:06 AM, wrote: > Ha ha, I reread the initial message and completely missed it. Yes, I > have been to that Georgia too and would definitely agree with Alan there. > Sorry, must be getting old or something. > > Cheers, Gary From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 3 03:55:28 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 17:55:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] annoying parts In-Reply-To: <380280.54393.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <380280.54393.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - the GRS front plate is rotatable. You have to rotate it until it fits. On 5/3/09, john doe wrote: > finally got around to putting in a high torque starter and sure as s--t it > doesn't fit according to plan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 21:46:07 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 20:46:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Desiccant air dryer - healey paint Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505203928.0201e270@pop.att.yahoo.com> I think I know the answer may be obvious but I am new to this type of painting. What type of air dryer is needed for a home air compressor. I plan on painting primer and finish painting parts. I am not planning on painting the body panels although I may paint the frame and chassis with single stage paint. I have an oil less compressor. Is a water trap enough? Should I get a desiccant air dryer? Has anyone tried the desiccant snake? http://www.ecompressedair.com/pointofuse/desiccantsnake.shtml TIA, John From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 21:50:09 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 20:50:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wing (Fender) nuts Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505204854.01fdcde0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Would someone let me know where, if at all, I can find original style nuts for the wing (fender) bolts? These are the nuts that clip onto the wings. TIA, John From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 22:12:42 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 21:12:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! In-Reply-To: <20090505164644.8U2C0.2137369.root@mp07> References: <000a01c9cd6b$87e709b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <20090505164644.8U2C0.2137369.root@mp07> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505211044.020811d8@pop.att.yahoo.com> When I lived at Lake Tahoe in the Winter of '71 the hardtop was great to have. Then spring came and I stored it at my parents house far away from me. At 01:46 PM 5/5/2009 -0700, bighealey at charter.net wrote: >Mark, > >Come run a rally with us in the snow then tell us how pure you want >to be. I get your point but there are times when a hard top is >really practical. > >Cheers > >T > >---- Mark LaPierre wrote: > > I have made good use of every hard top that I have ever > owned. Sold all of > > them and put > > the money into something really useful for the car or kids > future. They > > are a PITA to store and the usage doesn't equal the expense at > all . May > > pay off when you sell but it has to be to a real purist > > cause the casual observer/ driver, wants a top down car not a > hard top car. > > > > Just my 2cents on experiences with hard tops. > > > > FWIW, for more room, remove hard top. > > > > Mark > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jack Feldman" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 2:42 PM > > Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! > > > > > > > Just got my hard top back from being restored. The purists can vent now > > > since I had it painted black to go with my Colorado Red over Black paint > > > job. Knowing this is to last forever, I had the headlining done > in a black > > > textured vinyl. > > > > > > The problem I have is in getting in and out. When I had my > bugeye I had no > > > trouble getting in and out when the hard top was on. But that > was 45 years > > > and 30 lbs ago. But I was also two inches taller than. > > > > > > While I have figured out how to do it, when I do get in, my > 5'7" is about > > > 2 > > > inches from the headliner. > > > > > > What do six footers do to get in and out, and how do they fit in? > > > > > > Someone told my that Donald Healey was 5'6" and than might explain why he > > > had a special coupe made for him rather than a hard top. > > > > > > I have an idea of how to store it, but I wonder how other folks who have > > > hard tops store theirs. > > > > > > Jack > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > >http://www.team.net/archive From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 22:15:50 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 21:15:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud tabs Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505211301.01fe0a20@pop.att.yahoo.com> If anyone has a photo of the front shroud frame attachment tabs would they send it to me? I also need the tab dimensions because they are broken off. Thanks in Advance! John From tomleavy at comcast.net Tue May 5 22:27:32 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 04:27:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? Message-ID: <1138548075.4797411241584052228.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> God, I love this list. I went through painful withdrawals this week. Thank you, MJB for getting it up and running again. Tom From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue May 5 22:36:29 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:36:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? In-Reply-To: <1138548075.4797411241584052228.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1138548075.4797411241584052228.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328CDF@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day It's clear to me that we should all apply for overseas aid grants from our respective governments and stage the 2011 Conclave in the country of Georgia. Then we could all pack up our cars and converge of T'bilisi for a wonderful time. Just think of how much aid we would provide. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (where it's coming up to Winter and I might have to put on a jumper when I'm driving the Austin-Healey) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tomleavy at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, 6 May 2009 2:28 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? God, I love this list. I went through painful withdrawals this week. Thank you, MJB for getting it up and running again. Tom ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 5 22:36:34 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:36:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wing (Fender) nuts In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505204854.01fdcde0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505204854.01fdcde0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - These are sold in kits with the special bolts and washers by all the vendors. Typically one kit per fender Actually, the prices of these kits aren't all that expensive, $12 for on kit at Moss: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28951#28 Item #28 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 11:50 AM, john spaur wrote: > Would someone let me know where, if at all, I can find original style nuts > for the wing (fender) bolts? These are the nuts that clip onto the wings. > > TIA, > John From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 5 22:47:36 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 21:47:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Desiccant air dryer - healey paint In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505203928.0201e270@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505203928.0201e270@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A011668.3090406@comcast.net> I'm not a painting expert, but that never stopped me from having opinions ;) Obviously, it's a good idea to remove moisture from the air. In my limited experience, a good water trap works for most uses. You can put an extra length of coiled hose before the filter as a 'condenser' as well. My father has gotten some pretty good paint jobs this way. The 'snake' looks like a good idea, and couldn't hurt, but I suspect you'll need a new one after only a few minutes of painting on an even slightly humid day. Given that a decent paint job is 'worth' at least several thousand dollars it might be worth it to buy a half-dozen. My dad uses one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98904 Here's another option: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94733 Of course, it won't matter much if you have to use water-based paint, which I believe will be a requirement in most of California in the not-too-distant future (it already is in some areas). Bob john spaur wrote: > I think I know the answer may be obvious but I am new to this type of > painting. > > What type of air dryer is needed for a home air compressor. I plan on > painting primer and finish painting parts. I am not planning on painting > the body panels although I may paint the frame and chassis with single > stage paint. I have an oil less compressor. > > Is a water trap enough? > > Should I get a desiccant air dryer? > > Has anyone tried the desiccant snake? > > http://www.ecompressedair.com/pointofuse/desiccantsnake.shtml > > TIA, > John > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue May 5 22:42:56 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 00:42:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud tabs References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505211301.01fe0a20@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D3D1130AFF24B6A93152392F854C769@ophrdc.org> John, What series Healey? The arrangement on the Hundred is completely different than the sixes. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:15 AM Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud tabs > If anyone has a photo of the front shroud frame attachment tabs would they > send it to me? I also need the tab dimensions because they are broken off. > > Thanks in Advance! > John > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 23:17:12 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 22:17:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud tabs In-Reply-To: <8D3D1130AFF24B6A93152392F854C769@ophrdc.org> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505211301.01fe0a20@pop.att.yahoo.com> <8D3D1130AFF24B6A93152392F854C769@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090505221543.020692d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> BT7 1962 MKII I did not think this through! At 12:42 AM 5/6/2009 -0400, Rich C wrote: >John, > >What series Healey? The arrangement on the Hundred is completely >different than the sixes. > >Rich Chrysler > >----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" >To: >Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:15 AM >Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud tabs > >>If anyone has a photo of the front shroud frame attachment tabs >>would they send it to me? I also need the tab dimensions because >>they are broken off. >> >>Thanks in Advance! >>John From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 6 00:13:13 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 00:13:13 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net status Message-ID: <20090506061313.A82DC2E0B6@bradakis.com> Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such. And it ain't over yet. It should all be fine by next week, though. The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with several other domains and network related services is Qwest. Saturday, May 2nd, they cut off my network access. They have been recieving complaints about "malicious activity" from one of my servers. It has happened before. The first time I actually spent many hours on the phone over a period of several days and found out the nature of the "malicious activity." Someone too lazy or too stupid to click on the 'unsubscribe' link for one of the mailing lists was flagging all incoming Team.Net emails as spam. Once I finally managed to penetrate deep into the Qwest support to find someone with more than a single digit IQ, it took me just a few seconds to remove the braindead A-hole from the lists to which they subscribed. It happened again a while back, again I took the time and effort to finally get to the root of the problem and removed the whining piece of human debris from the appropriate list. This time I've had enough. It is so frustrating to have to go through their entire little debugging script *every time* I talk to a new person about it: Them: What operating system are you running? Me: Unix, FreeBSD 6.2 Them: No, I mean are you running Vista, XP or Windows 98? Me: Like I said, I'm running Unix, FreeBSD 6.2. I am NOT running Windows, just like I told all the other ... You know, a lot of people who just use computers as a basic appliance would not understand the details of that conversation, they have no need to. But tech support people working for a major company like Qwest? How do people that incompetent get through the first job interview? Do they have anyone on their staff who can even *spell* Unix?? At any rate, the problem that Qwest claims I have is still not resolved, they will most likely once again cut off my network access soon. As I said, I've had enough. On Friday, May 8th I will be changing from Qwest to XMission, located here in Salt Lake, for Team.Net ISP service. The changeover will result in Team.Net services being unavailable for a few days. IP addresses, nameserver data, etc. will take a day or two or so to percolate through the network. So expect sporadic service over the next few days, but it should all settle down by early next week. Thank you for your patience. mjb. From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue May 5 23:03:41 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 15:03:41 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 steering wheel Message-ID: A bit late I know but got caught out by the List downtime: I have an early Bn1 adjustable steering wheel, in need of restoration, listed on Aussie Ebay (ending in 5 hours!) Item no. 190304245938 Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Wed May 6 03:04:35 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 19:04:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops Message-ID: <20090506190435.14843lpoaxnvfueb@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Blokes Every decent Healey hand built by Donald Healey Motor Co.,( not Austin subcontractors) had a hardtop fitted. Donald's own 100 even had its top permanently fitted. Even the red and white BMC Competition Dept. rally cars all had hardtops. Donald put alloy panels,a hardtop and a few other bits on mine, rivetted a HEALEY chassis plate on it and marked the chassis plate where it listed type as: G.T. How HARD is it to TOP that? From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 6 03:56:33 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:56:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops In-Reply-To: <20090506190435.14843lpoaxnvfueb@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <20090506190435.14843lpoaxnvfueb@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: Joe - %&$*#% show off! Now that I got that out of my system, do you have a pic of the GT plate? It would be interesting to see... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 5:04 PM, wrote: > Blokes > > Every decent Healey hand built by Donald Healey Motor Co.,( not Austin > subcontractors) had a hardtop fitted. Donald's own 100 even had its top > permanently fitted. Even the red and white BMC Competition Dept. rally cars > all had hardtops. Donald put alloy panels,a hardtop and a few other bits on > mine, rivetted a HEALEY chassis plate on it and marked the chassis plate > where it listed type as: G.T. > > How HARD is it to TOP that? From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed May 6 05:52:24 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 05:52:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] On and off topic for sale Message-ID: Folks, As some of you know I build bicycles in addition to the car business and I have built a tandem bike for an attempt to break an old (1980) record. The economy is pretty weak (sucks) at the moment and I need to quickly raise some money for the attempt next month. So, I'm offering a really nice Bugeye up for sale and or a custom bike. The two tinyurl links below will take you to the pictures. The bike is a top shelf road bike and you buy the bits and I throw in the fame for free. Let's call it $1650.00 US It's a 58cm x 58.5cm Columbus Spirit frame set ( fine grained doped Niobium-steel) Very light, very strong, very responsive. Very collectible/ridible. The Bugeye is a '59 948cc nearly dead stock. It has nearly all the stuff and is absolutely rust free. Not a show winner, but damn close. Please contact me off list if you are a serious buyer. Thanks for looking, Dave http://tinyurl.com/cskmtg http://tinyurl.com/dk5nag frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From peter at easterton.com Wed May 6 05:56:27 2009 From: peter at easterton.com (Peter Hunt) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:56:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? References: <43C91A041D124F6E899BE9B46787BEA6@velad> Message-ID: <00f901c9ce41$b0686ec0$0301a8c0@oemcomputer> Richard, I wish you the best of luck whilst visiting the country of Georgia - NATO are conducting military exercises in the region and Russion troops are massing on the northen border according to our national press. Drove through the country almost 9 years to the week in our '62 BT7 on the way to Baku on the Caspian Sea. Very friendly people but the roads were a disaster - full of potholes with cattle and sheep wandering along with the traffic. Stayed at the Sheraton in Tbilisi and changed the cast iron exhaust manifold for a DW 6 branch steel system as the CI had cracked. You may still find the remains in the large garage area under the hotel, it probably is the only part of an Austin Healey in Georgia. There are some mention of our experience travelling through Georgia on our website - www.aroundtheworld.scotland.net/auric/progress.htm Day 12 is when we drove into the region - have a good time! Regards, Peter Hunt Scotland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Korn" To: Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:04 AM Subject: [Healeys] Any Healeys in Georgia?? > Dear List, > > I4m going to Georgia, not as in Atlanta but as in Tbilisi, in the middle of > May and was wondering if there are any Healeys there to see? > > > Richard > BN2 > _______________________________________________ From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed May 6 06:32:31 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 08:32:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dissapointing news Message-ID: Oh well, it was too good to be true. Turns out that the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust had made a mistake on my Heritage Certificate and my beloved BT7 was in fact made and dispatched in late 1959, not 1969, so I do not have the last Healey ever made. Joking aside, the BMIHT gave great service. Once I emailed them pointing out the mistake, they only asked for the Certificate number and re-issued a corrected one right away which arrived in about 10 days - with the promise I destroy the old one, which I did. Good on them for trusting me to wreck the old one and correcting the error so quickly. Cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed May 6 06:50:52 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:50:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] dissapointing news In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500583DB7A@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Hi Mirek, I am the lucky owner of a 62 BT7, which was fitted with disk wheels as stated on one certificate and with wire wheels on a later issued one. So I can choose what I like and my car is always concours correct. I have both wheel sets available. Its only some work to convert from one to the other. And to the precision these cars were built: My BT7 has the same punched numbers on hood and trunk lid, but on the hood catch it is one digit difference, to say it is B543 on the lids and B542 on the catch. So I assume car B542 has got the catch B543 of my car at the assembly line. Cheers Josef Eckert -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mirek Sharp Gesendet: Mittwoch, 6. Mai 2009 14:33 An: Healey List Betreff: [Healeys] dissapointing news Oh well, it was too good to be true. Turns out that the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust had made a mistake on my Heritage Certificate and my beloved BT7 was in fact made and dispatched in late 1959, not 1969, so I do not have the last Healey ever made. Joking aside, the BMIHT gave great service. Once I emailed them pointing out the mistake, they only asked for the Certificate number and re-issued a corrected one right away which arrived in about 10 days - with the promise I destroy the old one, which I did. Good on them for trusting me to wreck the old one and correcting the error so quickly. Cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed May 6 06:57:23 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 08:57:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] dissapointing news References: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500583DB7A@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: Stories that speak to the uniqueness of each of our cars! Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:50 AM Subject: AW: [Healeys] dissapointing news Hi Mirek, I am the lucky owner of a 62 BT7, which was fitted with disk wheels as stated on one certificate and with wire wheels on a later issued one. So I can choose what I like and my car is always concours correct. I have both wheel sets available. Its only some work to convert from one to the other. And to the precision these cars were built: My BT7 has the same punched numbers on hood and trunk lid, but on the hood catch it is one digit difference, to say it is B543 on the lids and B542 on the catch. So I assume car B542 has got the catch B543 of my car at the assembly line. Cheers Josef Eckert From Warthodson at aol.com Wed May 6 07:07:19 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:07:19 EDT Subject: [Healeys] dissapointing news Message-ID: My I suggest that you install disk wheels on one side & wire wheels on the other side. It would be fun to see how many people notice. Gary Hodson In a message dated 5/6/2009 7:51:28 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com writes: I am the lucky owner of a 62 BT7, which was fitted with disk wheels as stated on one certificate and with wire wheels on a later issued one. So I can choose what I like and my car is always concours correct. I have both wheel sets available. Its only some work to convert from one to the other. **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 6 07:28:23 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 06:28:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] dissapointing news In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A019077.4080308@comcast.net> Actually, disks rear, wires front might look kinda cool. bs Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > My I suggest that you install disk wheels on one side & wire wheels on the > other side. > It would be fun to see how many people notice. > Gary Hodson > > > In a message dated 5/6/2009 7:51:28 A.M. Central Daylight Time, > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com writes: > > I am the lucky owner of a 62 BT7, which was fitted with disk wheels as > stated > on one certificate and with wire wheels on a later issued one. > So I can choose what I like and my car is always concours correct. I have > both > wheel sets available. Its only some work to convert from one to the other. > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bj8Healey at msn.com Wed May 6 07:30:23 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:30:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Factory Hard Top! Message-ID: Jack, I made a rack for my hardtop that mounts on the wall. The top simply rests front down on the rack supports and get held in place to a cross bar. I am in quite a rush this week trying to get to my sons college graduation but next week I will try to take a photo and send it to you if you like. Please let me know. I really enjoy my hardtop much of the year. Easy on and off and great weather protection. Especially from the summer sun when it bakes down at 90 to 100 F in the desert. Certainly a different need than a person that lives in an area where you drive in and out of shade ... Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 ><((((:> ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7... ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Wed May 6 08:08:56 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 07:08:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net status In-Reply-To: <20090506061313.A82DC2E0B6@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Please Mark, let it out. Tell us how you really feel. Mark J Bradakismark at bradakis.com > Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing > lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such. And it ain't > over yet. It should all be fine by next week, though. > > The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with > several other domains and network related services is Qwest. > Saturday, May 2nd, they cut off my network access. They have > been recieving complaints about "malicious activity" from one > of my servers. It has happened before. The first time I > actually spent many hours on the phone over a period of > several days and found out the nature of the "malicious > activity." > > Someone too lazy or too stupid to click on the 'unsubscribe' > link for one of the mailing lists was flagging all incoming > Team.Net emails as spam. Once I finally managed to penetrate > deep into the Qwest support to find someone with more than a > single digit IQ, it took me just a few seconds to remove the > braindead A-hole from the lists to which they subscribed. > > It happened again a while back, again I took the time and effort > to finally get to the root of the problem and removed the whining > piece of human debris from the appropriate list. > > This time I've had enough. It is so frustrating to have to > go through their entire little debugging script *every time* > I talk to a new person about it: > > > Them: What operating system are you running? > > Me: Unix, FreeBSD 6.2 > > Them: No, I mean are you running Vista, XP or Windows 98? > > Me: Like I said, I'm running Unix, FreeBSD 6.2. I am NOT > running Windows, just like I told all the other ... > > > > You know, a lot of people who just use computers as a basic > appliance would not understand the details of that conversation, > they have no need to. But tech support people working for a > major company like Qwest? How do people that incompetent get > through the first job interview? Do they have anyone on their > staff who can even *spell* Unix?? > > At any rate, the problem that Qwest claims I have is still > not resolved, they will most likely once again cut off my > network access soon. As I said, I've had enough. > > On Friday, May 8th I will be changing from Qwest to XMission, > located here in Salt Lake, for Team.Net ISP service. The > changeover will result in Team.Net services being unavailable > for a few days. IP addresses, nameserver data, etc. will take > a day or two or so to percolate through the network. > > So expect sporadic service over the next few days, but it should > all settle down by early next week. > > Thank you for your patience. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From dan at warner-associates.com Wed May 6 08:20:36 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:20:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Message-ID: Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel problem? ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Knowles To: dlee at usfamily.net Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM Subject: wire wheels Dave, I hope you will pass this query to the membership. I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years with no problems until last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago and back without incident (can you believe that). The day after I returned I was checking the wheels and discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken spokes- all short spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the hub. The roads that I traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I think that if it were the rough roads that caused the problems there would have been at least a few broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered some new spokes but can't get them in unless i remove some other spokes. is this necessary? any comments would be appreciated. Dave Knowles Mankato Dave Knowles _____ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - Release Date: 4/30/2009 5:53 PM --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! --- From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed May 6 08:48:39 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:48:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <392792.84279.qm@web52406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Send it back to Dayton, sounds like he may not be that far from there. --- On Wed, 5/6/09, Dan Stromquist wrote: > From: Dan Stromquist > Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question > To: "'Healey List'" > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 10:20 AM > Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel > problem? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dave Knowles > > To: dlee at usfamily.net > > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM > > Subject: wire wheels > > > > Dave, > > I hope you will pass this query to the membership. > > I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years > with no problems until > last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago and back without > incident (can you > believe that). The day after I returned I was checking the > wheels and > discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken > spokes- all short > spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the hub. The > roads that I > traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I think > that if it were the > rough roads that caused the problems there would have been > at least a few > broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered some new > spokes but can't get > them in unless i remove some other spokes. is this > necessary? > > any comments would be appreciated. > > > > Dave Knowles > > Mankato > > Dave Knowles > > _____ > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - Release > Date: 4/30/2009 > 5:53 PM > > > > --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! > --- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgtd51 at comcast.net Wed May 6 08:48:49 2009 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 10:48:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A01A351.50500@comcast.net> vandalism? Dan Stromquist wrote: > Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel problem? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dave Knowles > > To: dlee at usfamily.net > > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM > > Subject: wire wheels > > > > Dave, > > I hope you will pass this query to the membership. > > I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years with no problems until > last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago and back without incident (can you > believe that). The day after I returned I was checking the wheels and > discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken spokes- all short > spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the hub. The roads that I > traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I think that if it were the > rough roads that caused the problems there would have been at least a few > broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered some new spokes but can't get > them in unless i remove some other spokes. is this necessary? > > any comments would be appreciated. > > > > Dave Knowles > > Mankato > > Dave Knowles > > _____ > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - Release Date: 4/30/2009 > 5:53 PM > > > > --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! > --- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed May 6 08:49:17 2009 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:49:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info Message-ID: <290212.14367.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi List Does anyone have any guidance, past experience,suggestions on buying a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing for a 67BJ-8? Dennis Welch?Moss? A/H Spares? Should I stay away from anyone? Any Help would be appreciated Don From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 6 09:05:36 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 15:05:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I only see one question in there, and he seems to have answered it himself. I know most of the wire wheel rebuilders don't bother replacing individual spokes; they cut them all out then relace the whole wheel. If he needs to remove good spokes to get at the broken, well, he needs to remove good spokes to get at the broken (remove too many and you'll have to do this on an appropriate jig or the hub might end up offcenter). In my experience, spokes break more or less randomly. It could be that one wheel had spokes that came from a bad batch of steel, or they weren't laced correctly or were too tight/loose to begin with. He didn't say whether he had painted or stainless spokes; supposedly stainless is nominally stronger but more brittle--go figure--than 'regular' steel. He might have hit a particularly bad pothole just right on that one wheel (remember that spokes are never in compression--it would have been on the 'downstroke' that the spokes broke). If the broken spokes are all in a group that's likely, if not then it's probably not. Is he absolutely certain he had no broken spokes before the trip? If a couple were already broken--you might not notice unless you checked them beforehand--that would have put greater stress on the others. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Stromquist" To: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 7:20:36 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel problem? ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Knowles To: dlee at usfamily.net Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM Subject: wire wheels Dave, I hope you will pass this query to the membership. I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years with no problems until last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago and back without incident (can you believe that). The day after I returned I was checking the wheels and discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken spokes- all short spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the hub. The roads that I traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I think that if it were the rough roads that caused the problems there would have been at least a few broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered some new spokes but can't get them in unless i remove some other spokes. is this necessary? any comments would be appreciated. Dave Knowles Mankato Dave Knowles From gbrierton at hotmail.com Wed May 6 09:58:25 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:58:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I've had some "spoke breakage". Always when the car was loaded with luggage for a long trip, always on the rears and always when I've "strayed" onto an Interstate in the Northeast marred by cavernous expansion joints . I actually will NEVER drive an Interstate highway in Pennsylvania again! Regarding Dave's situation, if he really didn't check until after the trip, I suspect the wires broke in a sequence; after one goes, others usually follow. As to replacement, 9 spokes calls for a pro with the required equipment and skill. As many of you know, Hendrix Wire Wheel is the best place for wheel and tire service. When he is done with your tires/wheels, your A-H will ride smoooooth! Gary Brierton, '67 BJ-8 aka the Silver Bullet -------------------------------------------------- From mandmschneider at comcast.net Wed May 6 10:20:37 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:20:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal Message-ID: <4557E732-08A8-4848-8823-3ABB9618BF54@comcast.net> Section J.5 of the Healey Workshop Manual for 100-6 and 3000 describes removal and replacement of the pinion oil seal. The text calls for the withdrawal of the pinion flange and pressed end-cover with Service Tool 18G2 (extractor for driving flange). I want to replace the oil seal. Of course I don't have too 18G2. My inspection of the exploded rear axle graphic in the manual suggests that if I remove flange nut and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a small hammer. Am I correct? To get to the oil seal the next step will be removal of the oil seal housing. Can someone offer a suggestion on accomplishing this step? It is the "pressed" term that causes concern. Thanks. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed May 6 10:22:25 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:22:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <0d3101c9ce5f$33c9d4d0$0200a8c0@DadP4> Message-ID: <256503.93448.qm@web52404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks John, I was responding to the original query and it looks as though you have sent your responce to me only, so I'm going to redirect it to the whole list. Best JK --- On Wed, 5/6/09, John Rowe wrote: > From: John Rowe > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question > To: jackson_krall at yahoo.com > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 11:27 AM > If the right hand side spokes broke they would be on the > kerb side in the > US. This is the roughest part of the road, generally. > > I have Dayton chrome wire wheels on my 3000 which I use > vigorously in the > Classic Adelaide Rally each year and each year I break > short spokes, always > at the inner end. The spokes are stainless steel and > perhaps are more > brittle than ordinary steel particularly at the bend and at > the start of the > transition to the enlarged end. > > Depending on which spoke is broken, sometimes you have to > remove three other > spokes to replace one. > > If you are not confident in undertaking this repair send it > back to the > factory or to a spoke wheel supplier. > > This is one of the problems associated with spoke wheels. > > cheers from West Oz > > John Rowe > 1959 3000 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jackson Krall" > > > Send it back to Dayton, sounds like he may not be that > far from there. From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed May 6 10:29:25 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:29:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Message-ID: <441218.76714.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That is unacceptable - call Dayton and complain - sounds like a maverick wheel. Ask for a warranty replacement and send them back the broken wheel for failure analysis. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 5/6/09, Jackson Krall wrote: > From: Jackson Krall > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question > To: "'Healey List'" > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 7:48 AM > Send it back to Dayton, sounds like > he may not be that far from there. > > --- On Wed, 5/6/09, Dan Stromquist > wrote: > > > From: Dan Stromquist > > Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question > > To: "'Healey List'" > > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 10:20 AM > > Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel > > problem? > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: Dave Knowles > > > > > To: dlee at usfamily.net > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM > > > > Subject: wire wheels > > > > > > > > Dave, > > > > I hope you will pass this query to the > membership. > > > > I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years > > with no problems until > > last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago > and back without > > incident (can you > > believe that). The day after I returned I was > checking the > > wheels and > > discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken > > spokes- all short > > spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the > hub. The > > roads that I > > traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I > think > > that if it were the > > rough roads that caused the problems there would have > been > > at least a few > > broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered > some new > > spokes but can't get > > them in unless i remove some other spokes. is > this > > necessary? > > > > any comments would be appreciated. > > > > > > > > Dave Knowles > > > > Mankato > > > > Dave > Knowles > > > > _____ > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - > Release > > Date: 4/30/2009 > > 5:53 PM > > > > > > > > --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! > > > --- > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dan at warner-associates.com Wed May 6 10:33:58 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:33:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <37E9D235FFD1465B8D92CB256EEDEB21@DANSTROM> Thanks Bob. Maybe these spokes are like rivets. Once one goes, others fail. Dan _____ From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 10:06 AM To: Dan Stromquist Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question I only see one question in there, and he seems to have answered it himself. I know most of the wire wheel rebuilders don't bother replacing individual spokes; they cut them all out then relace the whole wheel. If he needs to remove good spokes to get at the broken, well, he needs to remove good spokes to get at the broken (remove too many and you'll have to do this on an appropriate jig or the hub might end up offcenter). In my experience, spokes break more or less randomly. It could be that one wheel had spokes that came from a bad batch of steel, or they weren't laced correctly or were too tight/loose to begin with. He didn't say whether he had painted or stainless spokes; supposedly stainless is nominally stronger but more brittle--go figure--than 'regular' steel. He might have hit a particularly bad pothole just right on that one wheel (remember that spokes are never in compression--it would have been on the 'downstroke' that the spokes broke). If the broken spokes are all in a group that's likely, if not then it's probably not. Is he absolutely certain he had no broken spokes before the trip? If a couple were already broken--you might not notice unless you checked them beforehand--that would have put greater stress on the others. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Stromquist" To: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 7:20:36 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Anyone have some suggestions for Dave's wire wheel problem? ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Knowles To: dlee at usfamily.net Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 3:05 PM Subject: wire wheels Dave, I hope you will pass this query to the membership. I've had Dayton chrome wire wheels for several years with no problems until last week. I drove my BJ8 to Chicago and back without incident (can you believe that). The day after I returned I was checking the wheels and discovered the rear passenger side tire had 9 broken spokes- all short spokes that connect to the inner aspect of the hub. The roads that I traveled were all very rough (I-90 and I-94) but I think that if it were the rough roads that caused the problems there would have been at least a few broken spokes on the other wheels. I ordered some new spokes but can't get them in unless i remove some other spokes. is this necessary? any comments would be appreciated. Dave Knowles Mankato Dave Knowles From dan at warner-associates.com Wed May 6 10:37:09 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:37:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <334533F1E468491FB68A8918A5F15944@DANSTROM> Thanks Gary. Very good advice. Hendrix has a great reputation. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gary brierton Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 10:58 AM To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question I've had some "spoke breakage". Always when the car was loaded with luggage for a long trip, always on the rears and always when I've "strayed" onto an Interstate in the Northeast marred by cavernous expansion joints . I actually will NEVER drive an Interstate highway in Pennsylvania again! Regarding Dave's situation, if he really didn't check until after the trip, I suspect the wires broke in a sequence; after one goes, others usually follow. As to replacement, 9 spokes calls for a pro with the required equipment and skill. As many of you know, Hendrix Wire Wheel is the best place for wheel and tire service. When he is done with your tires/wheels, your A-H will ride smoooooth! Gary Brierton, '67 BJ-8 aka the Silver Bullet -------------------------------------------------- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From pieters at pt.lu Wed May 6 10:52:52 2009 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 18:52:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion Message-ID: I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a shock that fits or what car they came from? cheers Pieter From nlaredbt7 at tbc.net Wed May 6 11:03:52 2009 From: nlaredbt7 at tbc.net (Neil Anderson) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Message-ID: I do not know why there would be broken spokes on only one rear wheel. It is not like there is a certain life expectancy for the spokes to have this problem show up all of a sudden. First question is, are the spokes chrome plated or stainless? If they are chrome, I might send all the wheels back to a wheel supplier and have them replaced with stainless steel spokes and rebalanced. If the spokes are already stainless, the wheel might be bad. The wheel was probably still running true even with the broken spokes otherwise the car would have not been drivable. I would send the wheel off to replace the spokes and balance it as a precaution. Years ago when I was running 60 chrome spoke India Dunlops on my BT7, (yeah, I was warned later about these wheels, Moss had a good sale. Maybe that is why they were on sale) I would always find a few broken spokes after running gymkhanas. I ordered a bunch of stainless spokes from Dayton and got pretty good at replacing the broken spokes without dismounting the tire. I had to remove the air from the tube and push the tire bead off the rim and then could move the tube out the way to replace and tighten the spokes. I know that sometimes I had to remove an adjoining spoke to be able to get the broken one replaced with a new spoke. Looking back at it now, I should have done the correct thing and sent the wheels off to have all the spokes replaced. Good luck. It is obviously a serous problem that needs to be taken care of before you drive the car the next time. Buy a proper spoke wrench so you don't round off the nipple corners. Check for tightness by tapping on all the spokes with the wrench. They should all have about the same ring. If one or more sounds like a lower or dead pitch, it needs tightening. If you decide to put in the new spokes, you can check how true the wheel and tire is running by putting it on a front hub and hand spinning it with the wheel barely off the floor. Neil Anderson, Who lives just south of I-90 in Illinois and has heard how bad that road is this spring. Maybe the stimulus money will fix the highway. From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed May 6 11:12:12 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 10:12:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <173126440905061012t584d3758j783316bd7c4a4dfa@mail.gmail.com> please share front/rear #s Thanks Ira Erbs On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 9:52 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote: > I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my BJ7 > but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a shock > that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 6 11:12:59 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:12:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <4557E732-08A8-4848-8823-3ABB9618BF54@comcast.net> Message-ID: <519535251.4508001241629979880.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: " if I remove flange nut and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a small hammer. Am I correct?" Yep. Note the flange and yoke are two separate parts--IIRC--tap on the yoke with plastic/dead blow hammer if possible. They're splined--duh--and should come off fairly easily unless they have never been removed (not likely) and are rusted up; if so, get your favorite penetrating oil and/or carefully warm the yoke. re: " To get to the oil seal the next step will be removal of the oil seal housing. " The seal is the usual type--like on a wheel bearing. Carefully hook it with a screwdriver with a bent tip or some other 'sneaky pete' type device (don't scratch the smooth pinion shaft surface). The new seal can be tapped back in with a large socket or a drift , being sure to do all sides equally (don't get the seal cocked in there). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schneider" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 9:20:37 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal Section J.5 of the Healey Workshop Manual for 100-6 and 3000 describes removal and replacement of the pinion oil seal. The text calls for the withdrawal of the pinion flange and pressed end-cover with Service Tool 18G2 (extractor for driving flange). I want to replace the oil seal. Of course I don't have too 18G2. My inspection of the exploded rear axle graphic in the manual suggests that if I remove flange nut and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a small hammer. Am I correct? To get to the oil seal the next step will be removal of the oil seal housing. Can someone offer a suggestion on accomplishing this step? It is the "pressed" term that causes concern. Thanks. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 11:20:47 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 19:20:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A01C6EF.70204@chello.nl> I do not think Koni has them available anymore, but Spax does similar sets so I would gather they can accommodate you. Perhaps that Bilstein USA can supply them as well. They do special products for e.g. Jensen Interceptor and Jensen Healey Kees Oudesluijs. Pieter and Linda schreef: > I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to > my BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number > of a shock that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 6 11:35:44 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:35:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <37E9D235FFD1465B8D92CB256EEDEB21@DANSTROM> References: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <37E9D235FFD1465B8D92CB256EEDEB21@DANSTROM> Message-ID: <000c01c9ce71$15aee6e0$410cb4a0$@rr.com> Yes, the spokes are like rivets. When one fails, the load it was carrying is re-distributed to the adjacent spokes and they begin to carry more load than before. Thus, they are likely to fail also if the broken spoke remains un-replaced long enough. I've had my Dayton chrome wheels (with stainless spokes) since 1991 and 83K miles, and until last summer I had never had a broken spoke with them. When I arrived home after the cross-country drive to Conclave, I discovered my right rear wheel with two adjacent broken spokes. That wheel had been the source of some vibration after a new tire was installed at Hendrix before I left on the trip. It was not installed, trued, and balanced by Allen himself, as all had been previously. After having the spokes replaced at Hendrix and reinstalling the wheel on the right rear, I discovered one more broken spoke later that Hendrix has also replaced. The moral is: along with driving on too many rough roads, out-of-balance tires/wheels can also result in broken spokes. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:34 PM To: dlee at usfamily.net Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Thanks Bob. Maybe these spokes are like rivets. Once one goes, others fail. Dan From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 11:36:02 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 19:36:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <4557E732-08A8-4848-8823-3ABB9618BF54@comcast.net> References: <4557E732-08A8-4848-8823-3ABB9618BF54@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A01CA82.9040702@chello.nl> To pull the pinion flange you probably do not need a puller, at the most than the usual two legged afair to help a bit. It should not be a pressed fit. The pressed end plate you are referring to is probably the metal dust cover that is pressed in over the seal it self. You can remove this dust cover and the seal using a large screw driver. You probably need to replace this cover as wel as the seal, as it is likely that it gets damaged in the proces. The BJ7/8 partnumber is ATC7101 for the cover and ATC 7085 for the seal. Kees Oudesluijs Mark Schneider schreef: > Section J.5 of the Healey Workshop Manual for 100-6 and 3000 describes > removal and replacement of the pinion oil seal. The text calls for > the withdrawal of the pinion flange and pressed end-cover with Service > Tool 18G2 (extractor for driving flange). I want to replace the oil > seal. Of course I don't have too 18G2. My inspection of the exploded > rear axle graphic in the manual suggests that if I remove flange nut > and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a > small hammer. Am I correct? To get to the oil seal the next step > will be removal of the oil seal housing. Can someone offer a > suggestion on accomplishing this step? It is the "pressed" term that > causes concern. Thanks. > > Marks 3 > 1966 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From mandmschneider at comcast.net Wed May 6 11:39:21 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 10:39:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <519535251.4508001241629979880.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <519535251.4508001241629979880.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <9D5DCC53-0AF3-4645-A6C1-638616BDC66A@comcast.net> Bob, Thank you for the advice. This all matches with what I expected. But since this is the first time I have ever done this I didn't want to stumble into the release of some evil gremlins. I like to avoid those occasions. I am just finishing a rebuild on the transmission, overdrive, and drive line, as well as replacing the clutch. With this experience as a background I assumed I could handle getting this oil seal replacement. With your advice it looks as though the real challenge is going to be getting the flange nut off. That little jewel has been in place since sometime in December of 1965. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 On May 6, 2009, at 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: > " if I remove flange nut > and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a > small hammer. Am I correct?" > > Yep. Note the flange and yoke are two separate parts--IIRC--tap on > the yoke with plastic/dead blow hammer if possible. They're > splined--duh--and should come off fairly easily unless they have > never been removed (not likely) and are rusted up; if so, get your > favorite penetrating oil and/or carefully warm the yoke. > > re: > " To get to the oil seal the next step > will be removal of the oil seal housing. " > > The seal is the usual type--like on a wheel bearing. Carefully hook > it with a screwdriver with a bent tip or some other 'sneaky pete' > type device (don't scratch the smooth pinion shaft surface). The > new seal can be tapped back in with a large socket or a drift , > being sure to do all sides equally (don't get the seal cocked in > there). > > > Bob > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Schneider" > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 9:20:37 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal > > Section J.5 of the Healey Workshop Manual for 100-6 and 3000 describes > removal and replacement of the pinion oil seal. The text calls for > the withdrawal of the pinion flange and pressed end-cover with Service > Tool 18G2 (extractor for driving flange). I want to replace the oil > seal. Of course I don't have too 18G2. My inspection of the exploded > rear axle graphic in the manual suggests that if I remove flange nut > and washer I can probably tap the flange off with careful use of a > small hammer. Am I correct? To get to the oil seal the next step > will be removal of the oil seal housing. Can someone offer a > suggestion on accomplishing this step? It is the "pressed" term that > causes concern. Thanks. > > Marks 3 > 1966 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 11:40:21 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 19:40:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: References: <422188921.4436101241622336248.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A01CB85.4090705@chello.nl> In general stainless steel spokes are more vulnarable to fatigue cracking than the old fashioned steel ones. For rugged use get the normal steel ones and accept the extra maintainance concerning rust. For street cruising SS is the way to go. Kees Oudesluijs gary brierton schreef: > I've had some "spoke breakage". Always when the car was loaded with > luggage for a long trip, always on the rears and always when I've > "strayed" onto an Interstate in the Northeast marred by cavernous > expansion joints . I actually will NEVER drive an Interstate highway > in Pennsylvania again! Regarding Dave's situation, if he really didn't > check until after the trip, I suspect the wires broke in a sequence; > after one goes, others usually follow. > As to replacement, 9 spokes calls for a pro with the required > equipment and skill. As many of you know, Hendrix Wire Wheel is > the best place for wheel and tire service. When he is done with your > tires/wheels, your A-H will ride smoooooth! > Gary Brierton, > '67 BJ-8 aka the Silver Bullet > > -------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed May 6 11:44:20 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 10:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <4A01C6EF.70204@chello.nl> References: <4A01C6EF.70204@chello.nl> Message-ID: <173126440905061044m401947d3j7f26e048306fc6a5@mail.gmail.com> just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the adapters, but no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. Ira On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I do not think Koni has them available anymore, but Spax does similar sets > so I would gather they can accommodate you. > Perhaps that Bilstein USA can supply them as well. They do special products > for e.g. Jensen Interceptor and Jensen Healey > Kees Oudesluijs. > > > Pieter and Linda schreef: > >> I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >> BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >> shock that fits or what car they came from? >> cheers >> Pieter >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: >> 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed May 6 12:07:44 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:07:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <173126440905061044m401947d3j7f26e048306fc6a5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <910416.18577.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Check out the part #s written on the shocks here: http://modifiedhealeys.org/Technical/KoniClone1.jpg Is that any help? Rick --- On Wed, 5/6/09, I Erbs wrote: From: I Erbs Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion To: "Oudesluys" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 1:44 PM just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the adapters, but no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. Ira On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I do not think Koni has them available anymore, but Spax does similar sets > so I would gather they can accommodate you. > Perhaps that Bilstein USA can supply them as well. They do special products > for e.g. Jensen Interceptor and Jensen Healey > Kees Oudesluijs. > > > Pieter and Linda schreef: > >> I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >> BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >> shock that fits or what car they came from? >> cheers >> Pieter >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: >> 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Wed May 6 12:09:53 2009 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:09:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00de01c9ce75$db1260c0$91372240$@co@tx.rr.com> The Koni shocks used in the period kit are: Koni 80 Series, 1263 Special "D" shock absorbers The shocks are no longer manufactured. When I had my set rebuilt, Koni put in updated internals. You should contact TrueChoice Motorsports in Hilliard, Ohio to get their recommendation. They are authorized Koni rebuilders. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX From kags at shaw.ca Wed May 6 12:12:21 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:12:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- Message-ID: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone says does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) and is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out of the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to give us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now is the time. Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 From dan at warner-associates.com Wed May 6 12:48:35 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:48:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <000c01c9ce71$15aee6e0$410cb4a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <9BD6110213B94CFC8CB657C055FC75F5@DANSTROM> Thanks Steve. That all makes complete sense to me. Replaced about 20 rivets in my aluminum boat as a result of letting one bad one go for too long and one very rough day on a big lake. Allen did my wheels and I had him do the complete job so it is comforting to know they should be right initially. I will be checking my spokes on a regular basis from now on. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:36 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Yes, the spokes are like rivets. When one fails, the load it was carrying is re-distributed to the adjacent spokes and they begin to carry more load than before. Thus, they are likely to fail also if the broken spoke remains un-replaced long enough. I've had my Dayton chrome wheels (with stainless spokes) since 1991 and 83K miles, and until last summer I had never had a broken spoke with them. When I arrived home after the cross-country drive to Conclave, I discovered my right rear wheel with two adjacent broken spokes. That wheel had been the source of some vibration after a new tire was installed at Hendrix before I left on the trip. It was not installed, trued, and balanced by Allen himself, as all had been previously. After having the spokes replaced at Hendrix and reinstalling the wheel on the right rear, I discovered one more broken spoke later that Hendrix has also replaced. The moral is: along with driving on too many rough roads, out-of-balance tires/wheels can also result in broken spokes. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:34 PM To: dlee at usfamily.net Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Thanks Bob. Maybe these spokes are like rivets. Once one goes, others fail. Dan Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 6 12:54:58 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 18:54:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <672579936.4560751241635896652.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1260035324.4562721241636098340.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Mark, You're welcome. Be advised if you have lots of miles (>100K) on your car it's probable the pinion bearings have lost their preload; i.e. enough compression on the bearings to take up all slop and a smidgen more (measured as a few inch-pounds of torque/resistance on the pinon shaft with the axles removed and the diff drained of oil). If you have the axles out someday you can test that, but it doesn't warrant a teardown if you aren't having any problems. Shouldn't be too much trouble to remove the nut, but you'll need the right socket, a fairly large breaker bar and a suitable torque wrench to reinstall. There should be a large split/lock washer underneath and were originally tightened to 150 ft-lbs. Even with the e-brake set the pinion shaft might turn; have someone stomp on the brakes when you remove/reinstall the nut. Congrats on the work you've accomplished so far ... feels good, doesn't it ;) Bob Bob, Thank you for the advice. This all matches with what I expected. But since this is the first time I have ever done this I didn't want to stumble into the release of some evil gremlins. I like to avoid those occasions. I am just finishing a rebuild on the transmission, overdrive, and drive line, as well as replacing the clutch. With this experience as a background I assumed I could handle getting this oil seal replacement. With your advice it looks as though the real challenge is going to be getting the flange nut off. That little jewel has been in place since sometime in December of 1965. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From jobu53 at hotmail.com Wed May 6 13:00:51 2009 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info In-Reply-To: <290212.14367.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <290212.14367.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I just received these parts for my BJ7 from AHead4Healeys in the UK. They supplied AP brand. Great guys to deal with, not always the cheapest but supply quality parts. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 > Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:49:17 -0700 > From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info > > Hi List > Does anyone have any guidance, past experience,suggestions on buying a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing for a 67BJ-8? Dennis Welch?Moss? A/H Spares? Should I stay away from anyone? > Any Help would be appreciated > Don > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_WhatsNew1_052009 From pieters at pt.lu Wed May 6 13:19:20 2009 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:19:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <910416.18577.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <910416.18577.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <31ABB4EA-CF99-47A1-8867-87F1B2CDB244@pt.lu> Thanks Rick, I looked at that site but couldn't read the writing on the side of the shock. Is it clear on your computer? Pieter On 06/05/2009, at 8:07 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Check out the part #s written on the shocks here: > http://modifiedhealeys.org/Technical/KoniClone1.jpg Is that any help? > > Rick > > --- On Wed, 5/6/09, I Erbs wrote: > From: I Erbs > Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion > To: "Oudesluys" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 1:44 PM > > just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the > adapters, but > no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. > Ira > > On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Oudesluys > wrote: > >> I do not think Koni has them available anymore, but Spax does >> similar sets >> so I would gather they can accommodate you. >> Perhaps that Bilstein USA can supply them as well. They do special > products >> for e.g. Jensen Interceptor and Jensen Healey >> Kees Oudesluijs. >> >> >> Pieter and Linda schreef: >> >>> I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion > to fit to my >>> BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number > of a >>> shock that fits or what car they came from? >>> cheers >>> Pieter >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: >>> 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 6 13:24:34 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 19:24:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <4A01CA82.9040702@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1236428916.4579021241637874359.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The dust cover is a disk with a lip that fits over the yoke on the outside of the housing; i.e. it's not pressed into the housing. I called this 'flange' and 'yoke' in a previous post, it's actually the yoke and the dust cover that slips over it. They look like one part and usually come off together. bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "Mark Schneider" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 10:36:02 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal To pull the pinion flange you probably do not need a puller, at the most than the usual two legged afair to help a bit. It should not be a pressed fit. The pressed end plate you are referring to is probably the metal dust cover that is pressed in over the seal it self. You can remove this dust cover and the seal using a large screw driver. You probably need to replace this cover as wel as the seal, as it is likely that it gets damaged in the proces. The BJ7/8 partnumber is ATC7101 for the cover and ATC 7085 for the seal. Kees Oudesluijs From autofarm at cyg.net Wed May 6 13:27:11 2009 From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 15:27:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info References: <290212.14367.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: We also have AP product in stock. Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch supplier info >I just received these parts for my BJ7 from AHead4Healeys in the UK. They > supplied AP brand. Great guys to deal with, not always the cheapest but > supply > quality parts. > > > > Dan Serrao > > 1963 BJ7 > >> Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 07:49:17 -0700 >> From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info >> >> Hi List >> Does anyone have any guidance, past experience,suggestions on buying a > clutch/pressure plate/release bearing for a 67BJ-8? Dennis Welch?Moss? A/H > Spares? Should I stay away from anyone? >> Any Help would be appreciated >> Don >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria > l_WhatsNew1_052009 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.12.18/2098 - Release Date: 05/05/09 08:05:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 13:38:01 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 21:38:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> Message-ID: <4A01E719.4060203@chello.nl> I have seen these twist cables on ebay several times. I might even have one somewhere in my boxes of NOS junk. What is the length of the outer cable and inner cable? Kees Oudesluijs Earl Kagna schreef: > We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original > primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The > replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone says > does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. > > On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) and > is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the > carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out of > the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable > in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no > extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to give > us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now is > the time. > > Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 13:43:38 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 21:43:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <1236428916.4579021241637874359.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1236428916.4579021241637874359.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A01E86A.6090009@chello.nl> Could not see that on the exploded view. Does not matter, it does not play a role. It all makes less to disassemble. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > The dust cover is a disk with a lip that fits over the yoke on the > outside of the housing; i.e. it's not pressed into the housing. > > I called this 'flange' and 'yoke' in a previous post, it's actually > the yoke and the dust cover that slips over it. They look like one > part and usually come off together. > > > bs > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "Mark Schneider" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 10:36:02 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal > > To pull the pinion flange you probably do not need a puller, at the most > than the usual two legged afair to help a bit. It should not be a > pressed fit. > The pressed end plate you are referring to is probably the metal dust > cover that is pressed in over the seal it self. You can remove this dust > cover and the seal using a large screw driver. You probably need to > replace this cover as wel as the seal, as it is likely that it gets > damaged in the proces. The BJ7/8 partnumber is ATC7101 for the cover and > ATC 7085 for the seal. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Wed May 6 13:59:29 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:59:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal In-Reply-To: <1236428916.4579021241637874359.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <4A01CA82.9040702@chello.nl> <1236428916.4579021241637874359.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502E11@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> I think in this case "pressed" is English speak for "stamped" like in a steel stamped part. Ken Freese -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:25 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Mark Schneider Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing pinion oil seal The dust cover is a disk with a lip that fits over the yoke on the outside of the housing; i.e. it's not pressed into the housing. I called this 'flange' and 'yoke' in a previous post, it's actually the yoke and the dust cover that slips over it. They look like one part and usually come off together. bs From Healey100M at gmail.com Wed May 6 14:00:55 2009 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 16:00:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: <4A01E719.4060203@chello.nl> References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> <4A01E719.4060203@chello.nl> Message-ID: <473EC14C-5FE6-43EE-99A9-9EC0E02857BC@gmail.com> Oh boy! Some people just suffer! :-) Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On May 6, 2009, at 3:38 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > in my boxes of NOS junk From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 6 14:45:49 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 22:45:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: <473EC14C-5FE6-43EE-99A9-9EC0E02857BC@gmail.com> References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> <4A01E719.4060203@chello.nl> <473EC14C-5FE6-43EE-99A9-9EC0E02857BC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A01F6FD.2050109@chello.nl> That is what happens if you collect parts for the restauration of British cars. In the end you have boxes and boxes of extra stuff, most of it NOS. Kees Oudesluijs Randy Hicks schreef: > Oh boy! Some people just suffer! :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > > > > > > > On May 6, 2009, at 3:38 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> in my boxes of NOS junk > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 From bighealey at charter.net Wed May 6 15:14:46 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:14:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: <20090506171446.8W9UP.2236680.root@mp06> Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when last parked. In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed May 6 15:22:38 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:22:38 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2F44050C7ABA4C2CB72738413E9CB195@PeterPC> G'day Pieter The Ward Spl has Koni Adjustable 80 2583 on the front (probably a Healey Factory fitted conversion). The ex-Bob Whittred car has Monroe 12-0147 gas shocks (Bob thought they were a Volkswagen application) on his own brackets. Cheers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:52 AM Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion >I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >shock that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed May 6 15:29:53 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (e-wilkins at cox.net) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:29:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <31ABB4EA-CF99-47A1-8867-87F1B2CDB244@pt.lu> Message-ID: <20090506172953.BU4W9.100414.imail@fed1rmwml25> I blew up the picture. I can't read the number, but the brand name is Gabriel, not koni. Being neither Koni, nor Bilstein, those suckers are probably very affordable. Wilko ---- Pieter and Linda wrote: > Thanks Rick, > I looked at that site but couldn't read the writing on the side of > the shock. Is it clear on your computer? > Pieter > On 06/05/2009, at 8:07 PM, HealeyRick wrote: From bighealey at charter.net Wed May 6 15:31:02 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:31:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: <20090506173102.G6LRO.2237811.root@mp06> Wow. speechless This makes me think of some ads I have seen with comments such as:. Mechanic's special, project car, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when last parked. In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed May 6 15:36:13 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:36:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1689C2216045407ABF634E15FAE26F84@PeterPC> ...and the Konis are still listed in the Koni catalogue as rears for Hyundai Excel and S Coupe! Cheers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:52 AM Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion >I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >shock that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter From jwbn6 at verizon.net Wed May 6 15:38:22 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 16:38:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel Question Message-ID: <1401116276.271214.1241645902626.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Wed May 6 15:43:15 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:43:15 EDT Subject: [Healeys] 25th British Bash Message-ID: It is one month away. June 5 and 6, 2009. The 25th British Bash in Louisville, KY Registration is wrapping up and we need your help to make this a SPECTACULAR Bash! It is not too late to pre-register and help us out by entering your car and saving some $$$. _http://www.britishbhttp://_ (http://www.britishbash.com/) In addition we have some changes in store. On Friday night this year we are having a Pub night for all registrants, with free appetizers starting at 6 p.m. until they run out, inexpensive eats and right priced beer and cocktails, ending up with sweet treat deals to top of those sweet dreams before you head home. So we will have something to meet your tummies needs and a great night saving you more than the cost of entry. Please go to the website and register. We will post the Pub night details this week for all entrants, their family friends and guest. Join us for the 25th anniversary Bash!! Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed May 6 15:47:43 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:47:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <20090506172953.BU4W9.100414.imail@fed1rmwml25> Message-ID: <143604.87631.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The reference is to Gabriel "C Series" or Strider shocks. but I can't make out the part #s. Striders were 3 -way adjustables that are no longer made. Try emailing Leroy Joppa of the Nasty Boys at "wierdwillie at centurytel.net who would have the original Wheelspinner newsletter the drawings appeared in and he may be able to read the numbers on the original. >From there you could contact Gabriel and come up with an interchange part #. Good luck, Rick --- On Wed, 5/6/09, e-wilkins at cox.net wrote: From: e-wilkins at cox.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, "Pieter and Linda" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 5:29 PM I blew up the picture. I can't read the number, but the brand name is Gabriel, not koni. Being neither Koni, nor Bilstein, those suckers are probably very affordable. Wilko ---- Pieter and Linda wrote: > Thanks Rick, > I looked at that site but couldn't read the writing on the side of > the shock. Is it clear on your computer? > Pieter > On 06/05/2009, at 8:07 PM, HealeyRick wrote: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed May 6 15:48:23 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:48:23 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ....and although Monroe don't list the 12-0147, the rears for the Excel and S coupe are listed as 15-0147 (gas) or 17-0147 (Sensatrac) Perhaps a later model? Cheers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:52 AM Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion >I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >shock that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Wed May 6 16:12:58 2009 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 18:12:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> Message-ID: I got a new cable from Healey Surgeons that locks with a twist. It does say "choke" instead of "C" but it works just fine. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 2:12 PM, Earl Kagna wrote: > We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original > primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The > replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone says > does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. > > On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) and > is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the > carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out of > the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable > in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no > extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to give > us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now is > the time. > > Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bjsbj8 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.brouillette at comcast.net Wed May 6 16:13:20 2009 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 22:13:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506173102.G6LRO.2237811.root@mp06> Message-ID: <2008092929.4001251241648000883.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Wow,B That is one butt ugly Healey.B Anyone see any usable parts on it? ----- Original Message ----- From: bighealey at charter.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 5:31:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Wow. B speechless B This makes me think of some ads I have seen with comments such as:. Mechanic's special, project car, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when last parked. In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 6 16:21:05 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 06:21:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> Message-ID: Earl - The trick here is to undo the spring collar and take out the friction half moon and replace it with a little steel ball and put the spring collar back on - voilla! Twist and lock! Alan On 5/7/09, Earl Kagna wrote: > We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original > primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The > replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone says > does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. > > On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) and > is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the > carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out of > the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable > in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no > extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to give > us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now is > the time. > > Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed May 6 16:24:47 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 15:24:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506171446.8W9UP.2236680.root@mp06> References: <20090506171446.8W9UP.2236680.root@mp06> Message-ID: <173126440905061524m43238006xe3a072de47c56de7@mail.gmail.com> not to mention the fact that they are math challenged:) 85% of what? Looks like 100 % rust. The steering wheel was down to the metal! How is that possible? Plastic does not rust! Ira Erbs BT7 much less rusty than I thought.....\ On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 2:14 PM, wrote: > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when last > parked. > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed May 6 16:59:11 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 14:59:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?=22Koni=22_front_conversion?= Message-ID: <20090506225911.8113.qmail@hoster902.com> Ierbs wrote: just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the adapters, but no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. Ira Ira - suggest getting Spax from British Parts Northwest somewhere in your own OR neighborhood. I did that with my home-made front shock setup and they work great and he has great prices. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA BN6 From kags at shaw.ca Wed May 6 17:14:23 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 16:14:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> Message-ID: <910122F86E8C489AB167FEA646BD772D@computer> Alan - thanks for the suggestion. We had thought of that, but not got to it quite yet. If it works, it has the advantage of a bit more length. The whole new assembly seems to be about 2" longer than the original. Have you actually done this? Earl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Earl Kagna" ; "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:21 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- Earl - The trick here is to undo the spring collar and take out the friction half moon and replace it with a little steel ball and put the spring collar back on - voilla! Twist and lock! Alan On 5/7/09, Earl Kagna wrote: > We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original > primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The > replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone > says > does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. > > On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) > and > is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the > carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out > of > the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable > in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no > extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to > give > us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now > is > the time. > > Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 6 17:31:09 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:31:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: References: <68730A4397604F57A2DE39B2BA0C3158@computer> Message-ID: Bob - all BJ8 choke knobs say "choke.". Earlier 6s say "C", so you have the right knob. On 5/7/09, Bob Johnson wrote: > I got a new cable from Healey Surgeons that locks with a twist. It > does say "choke" instead of "C" but it works just fine. > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > > > On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 2:12 PM, Earl Kagna wrote: >> We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original >> primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The >> replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone > says >> does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary. >> >> On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual) >> and >> is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the >> carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out > of >> the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable >> in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no >> extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to >> give >> us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now > is >> the time. >> >> Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BT7 tri-carb >> BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as bjsbj8 at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From perkh at comcast.net Wed May 6 18:22:43 2009 From: perkh at comcast.net (Perk Hazlegrove) Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 20:22:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <31ABB4EA-CF99-47A1-8867-87F1B2CDB244@pt.lu> References: <910416.18577.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <31ABB4EA-CF99-47A1-8867-87F1B2CDB244@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4A0229D3.2060608@comcast.net> I have the front and rear conversions (Koni or Bilstein, I can't remember) on my BJ8 - installed by PPO and they have been trouble free for 10 years so I have not paid a lot of attention to them. I'll try to get under it this evening and see if I can see some numbers. Should they be the same front and rear? I seem to remember that front retains Armstrong unit with no damping - rear levers removed. Correct? Perk Hazlegrove '66 BJ8 Roanoke Va From insptwo at msn.com Wed May 6 19:03:54 2009 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:03:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506171446.8W9UP.2236680.root@mp06> References: <20090506171446.8W9UP.2236680.root@mp06> Message-ID: I think they had it right! 85% of it is a disaster! and you can forget about the other 15%. Bill BJ7 > Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 14:14:46 -0700 > From: bighealey at charter.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart > > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when last parked. > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html From deemi at juno.com Wed May 6 19:58:08 2009 From: deemi at juno.com (deemi at juno.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:58:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: <20090506.215808.4572.0.deemi@juno.com> that car actually looks like an old racer look at the guage and the rollbar and a few other oddities on her it has a tranny but wonder on the engine Bob Bowie in Maine > > > > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. > > > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when > last > parked. > > > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. > > > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as deemi at juno.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > DEEMI P.O. Box 268 Orono, ME 04473 www.deemi.org ____________________________________________________________ Deter possible thieves with a reliable new car alarm! Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTNmZGc4ZDS0ub9PgZ8oN1RrIttMd3wQFSBE7z5s185qGXQRxJGFWY/ From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed May 6 20:02:48 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 19:02:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506173102.G6LRO.2237811.root@mp06> Message-ID: <381655.87603.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> It's from a dealer and Astoria is Peter Kumar's neighborhood and there's an XKE in the background and something else there... so my bet is it's his... and he got it for practically nothing. Best JK --- On Wed, 5/6/09, bighealey at charter.net wrote: > From: bighealey at charter.net > Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 5:31 PM > Wow. speechless This makes me think of some ads I have > seen with comments such as:. > > Mechanic's special, project car, needs some TLC, has > some surface rust, ran when last parked. > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking > it. > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Wed May 6 20:39:42 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:39:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto anymore), guys !! It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? Ed From PhilRitten at aol.com Wed May 6 21:23:12 2009 From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 23:23:12 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line Message-ID: I was attempting to bleed the clutch on my '58 BN4, and accidentally twisted off the end of the pipe (last inch) underneath the car. Noting that there isn't a bleed screw anywhere, has anyone else cut the pipe back a little ways and installed a short piece of pipe with a bleed screw on it? Also, is it possible to put in a section of rubber fuel line to bridge the gap? Thanks Phil **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh) From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 6 21:46:02 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:46:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506.215808.4572.0.deemi@juno.com> References: <20090506.215808.4572.0.deemi@juno.com> Message-ID: You can see the engine in the background, so engine is there. Car is probably worth the sum of its salvageable parts, which looks like around $2,500 or less, much less. But heck, maybe throw on a set of Hoosier slicks, then maybe she is actually worth the 5,950 bottles of Smoky Mountain moonshine this guy is asking. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:58 AM, wrote: > that car actually looks like an old racer look at the guage and the > rollbar and a few other oddities on her > > it has a tranny but wonder on the engine > > Bob Bowie in Maine > > > > > > > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. > > > > > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when > > last > > parked. > > > > > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. > > > > > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as deemi at juno.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > DEEMI > P.O. Box 268 > Orono, ME 04473 > > www.deemi.org > ____________________________________________________________ > Deter possible thieves with a reliable new car alarm! Click now! > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTNmZGc4ZDS0ub9PgZ8oN1RrIttMd3wQFSBE7z5s185qGXQRxJGFWY/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed May 6 22:43:01 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:43:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ed, that type of restro is easy. It only takes 5 steps 1. Jack up Radiator cap* 2. Remove rusting hulk from below jacked up radiator cap 3. Install fully restored 2 seat Healey below jacked up radiator cap 4. Reinstall radiator cap 5. Replace old radiator cap with new. Steps 6 - 8 are optional 6. Paint car that god awful gold color that what-his-name uses 7. Go to Barret Jackson 8. Profit! *In the event radiator cap is missing, distributor cap, oil cap, spark plug, shift knob, or wire wheel knock off may be substituted as needed. (full disclosure) I have the $ to buy it, but I lack the space, talent, and ability. Rick On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 7:39 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > <> > > I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and > ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto > anymore), guys !! > > It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed May 6 23:07:55 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 22:07:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <20090506.215808.4572.0.deemi@juno.com> Message-ID: <38705.1007.qm@web52411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Yeah Bob, and those GoodYear Sports Car Specials on disc wheels were meant for the track. No need to worry about broken spokes with this baby. I wonder if it has Bridgehampton or Lime Rock history? Considering that we recently have seen a non-running 100 engine get snapped up at $3500. the price of this car is right in the ballpark. Best JK --- On Wed, 5/6/09, deemi at juno.com wrote: > From: deemi at juno.com > Subject: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 9:58 PM > that car actually looks like an old racer look at the guage > and the > rollbar and a few other oddities on her > > it has a tranny but wonder on the engine > > Bob Bowie in Maine > > > > > > > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting > thoughts to mind. > > > > > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface > rust, ran when > > last > > parked. > > > > > > In other words the last person ran from it after > parking it. > > > > > > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as deemi at juno.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > DEEMI > P.O. Box 268 > Orono, ME 04473 > > www.deemi.org > ____________________________________________________________ > Deter possible thieves with a reliable new car alarm! Click > now! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTNmZGc4ZDS0ub9PgZ8oN1RrIttMd3wQFSBE7z5s185qGXQRxJGFWY/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From DENewman2 at aol.com Wed May 6 23:40:16 2009 From: DENewman2 at aol.com (DENewman2 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 01:40:16 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: "god awful gold color" Excuse Meeeeee! Den In a message dated 5/6/2009 10:36:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, richard.ewald at gmail.com writes: god awful gold color **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu May 7 05:20:49 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 04:20:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <797053.87919.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I've got one! Oh wait a minute, this is the Healey list, not the Spridgets list. Never mind. Rick Bugeye, BJ7 --- On Wed, 5/6/09, Ed's Shop wrote: From: Ed's Shop Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart To: insptwo at msn.com, "healey help" Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2009, 10:39 PM It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? Ed Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca Thu May 7 05:24:20 2009 From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:24:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart & MGB BJ8 References: <20090506.215808.4572.0.deemi@juno.com> Message-ID: <84CC1C11E13340E9A843E8B025309DEC@mal71b83fb7a5c> If you like this one, you can also buy an original Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 with a blue interior, engine bay and chassis from the same guy. Mal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] old racer? Not for the faint of heart > You can see the engine in the background, so engine is there. > > Car is probably worth the sum of its salvageable parts, which looks like > around $2,500 or less, much less. > > But heck, maybe throw on a set of Hoosier slicks, then maybe she is > actually > worth the 5,950 bottles of Smoky Mountain moonshine this guy is asking. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:58 AM, wrote: > >> that car actually looks like an old racer look at the guage and the >> rollbar and a few other oddities on her >> >> it has a tranny but wonder on the engine >> >> Bob Bowie in Maine >> >> > > >> > > Wow. speechless This brngs some interesting thoughts to mind. >> > > >> > > Healey for sale, needs some TLC, has some surface rust, ran when >> > last >> > parked. >> > > >> > > In other words the last person ran from it after parking it. >> > > >> > > http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ctd/1155903424.html >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > You are subscribed as deemi at juno.com >> > >> > http://www.team.net/archive >> > >> > >> >> >> DEEMI >> P.O. Box 268 >> Orono, ME 04473 >> >> www.deemi.org >> ____________________________________________________________ >> Deter possible thieves with a reliable new car alarm! Click now! >> >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTNmZGc4ZDS0ub9PgZ8oN1RrIttMd3wQFSBE7z5s185qGXQRxJGFWY/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.21/2101 - Release Date: 05/06/09 17:58:00 From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Thu May 7 05:29:05 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 04:29:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] flamethrower dist Message-ID: <783177.62113.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone buy one yet and have a review From ahy3000 at comcast.net Thu May 7 05:50:03 2009 From: ahy3000 at comcast.net (ahy3000 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:50:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info In-Reply-To: <290212.14367.qm@web53808.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1466897217.7071131241697003117.JavaMail.root@sz0043a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I recently completed a clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing replacement with Moss parts and a lot of advice from this list. Everything is working great and we are enjoying driving about for the first time in many months. Burt Weiner '63 BJ7 HBJ7L/23582 ahy3000 at comcast.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Day" To: "healey list" Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 10:49:17 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info Hi List Does anyone have any guidance, past experience,suggestions on buying a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing for a 67BJ-8? Dennis Welch?Moss? A/H Spares? Should I stay away from anyone? Any Help would be appreciated Don From Warthodson at aol.com Thu May 7 06:21:45 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 08:21:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: A mother is driving her 7 year-old daughter to her friend's house for a play date when the little girl asks "Mommy," how old are you?" "Honey, you are not supposed to ask a lady her age," the mother replies sweetly."It's not polite." "OK", the little girl says, "How much do you weigh?" "Now really," the mother says, a bit less sweetly. "Those are personal questions and are really none of your business." Undaunted, the little girl asks, "Why did you and Daddy get a divorce?" "That's enough questions, young lady, honestly!" mom says as her daughter is getting out of the car. The exasperated mother drives away as the two friends begin to play. "My Mom won't tell me anything about her," the little girl says to her friend. "Well," says the friend, "all you need to do is look at her drivers license. It's like a report card, it has everything on it." Later that night the little girl says to her mother, "I know how old you are, you are 32." The mother is surprised and asks, "How did you find that out?" "I also know that you weigh 140 pounds." The mother is past surprised and shocked now. "How in heaven's name did you find that out?" "And," the little girl says triumphantly, "I know why you and daddy got a divorce." Now mom's getting mad. She says, "Oh really? And just why is that, young lady?" "Because you got an F in sex." **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 7 06:31:31 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 20:31:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] flamethrower dist In-Reply-To: <783177.62113.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <783177.62113.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, put one on my '52 A90 and another one on my '59 Jag. As long as you aren't racing, they are excellent. On 5/7/09, john doe wrote: > anyone buy one yet and have a review > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Thu May 7 06:47:56 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 08:47:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a 2 seater, 59 BN6, frame and body redone, still in the process of restoration. I like it, might take me awhile to finish it. Mine never looked like that one, my wife thought it did she's been trying to get me to get rid of mine for 22 years now.. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's Shop Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 10:40 PM To: insptwo at msn.com; healey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart <> I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto anymore), guys !! It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? Ed Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 7 07:15:39 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 06:15:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A02DEFB.8020902@comcast.net> Phil, Sounds like you broke off the fitting that attaches to the flex line, correct? I'm kinda curious how you managed to do that ;) I don't think you have much choice but to install a new clutch line. I doubt rubber fuel line and clamps would handle the pressure too well--the pressure when you disengage the clutch is much greater than even fuel injection line pressure. Not having a working clutch would all but strand you someday. This isn't a terrible job, I don't think you even have to remove the transmission cover to get at the line. This would be a good time to install a remote bleeder kit from Mr. Finespanner (Doug Reid), if you do pull the cover. Bob PhilRitten at aol.com wrote: > I was attempting to bleed the clutch on my '58 BN4, and accidentally > twisted off the end of the pipe (last inch) underneath the car. Noting that > there isn't a bleed screw anywhere, has anyone else cut the pipe back a > little > ways and installed a short piece of pipe with a bleed screw on it? Also, is > it possible to put in a section of rubber fuel line to bridge the gap? > > Thanks > Phil ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Thu May 7 07:57:11 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 06:57:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] flamethrower dist In-Reply-To: <783177.62113.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Easy install, improvement in overall engine performance, no problems. john doerccpl1 at yahoo.com > anyone buy one yet and have a review > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Thu May 7 09:45:59 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 8:45:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090507114559.IMFPX.2284403.root@mp06> What can't we ask a woman her weight when asked on a daily basis to wait for them? ---- Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > A mother is driving her 7 year-old daughter to her friend's house for a > play date when the little girl asks "Mommy," how old are you?" > > "Honey, you are not supposed to ask a lady her age," the mother replies > sweetly."It's not polite." > > "OK", the little girl says, "How much do you weigh?" > > "Now really," the mother says, a bit less sweetly. "Those are personal > questions > and are really none of your business." > > Undaunted, the little girl asks, "Why did you and Daddy get a divorce?" > > "That's enough questions, young lady, honestly!" mom says as her daughter > is getting out of the car. > > The exasperated mother drives away as the two friends begin to play. > > "My Mom won't tell me anything about her," the little girl says to her > friend. > > "Well," says the friend, "all you need to do is look at her drivers > license. > > It's like a report card, it has everything on it." > > Later that night the little girl says to her mother, > > "I know how old you are, you are 32." > > The mother is surprised and asks, "How did you find that out?" > > "I also know that you weigh 140 pounds." > > The mother is past surprised and shocked now. "How > in heaven's name did you find that out?" > > "And," the little girl says triumphantly, "I know why you and daddy got a > divorce." > > Now mom's getting mad. She says, "Oh really? And just why is that, young > lady?" > > "Because you got an F in sex." > **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Thu May 7 09:51:00 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:51:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info In-Reply-To: <1466897217.7071131241697003117.JavaMail.root@sz0043a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090507115100.R161P.2284798.root@mp06> My only comment is to make sure the thickness of the replacement throwout carbon is the same size as the one pulled. There are some thin ones floating about and look good all shiney and new. But will not work. Save yourself the trouble of pulling the thing back out by comparing side by side BEFORE commiting to reinstalling the anchor. ---- ahy3000 at comcast.net wrote: > I recently completed a clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing replacement with Moss parts and a lot of advice from this list. Everything is working great and we are enjoying driving about for the first time in many months. > > > Burt Weiner > '63 BJ7 > HBJ7L/23582 > ahy3000 at comcast.net > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Don Day" > To: "healey list" > Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 10:49:17 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: [Healeys] clutch supplier info > > Hi List > Does anyone have any guidance, past experience,suggestions on buying a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing for a 67BJ-8? Dennis Welch?Moss? A/H Spares? Should I stay away from anyone? > Any Help would be appreciated > Don > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From peter at nosimport.com Thu May 7 08:50:57 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 09:50:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: <20090506225911.8113.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20090506225911.8113.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <200905070752688.SM04476@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> I have a full Koni conversion kit NOS. still in the (somewhat tattered) box. The part numbers on the shocks are the Koni number for the Healeys. I could do some measuring, if needed. Peter C ==== At 05:59 PM 5/6/2009, Steve B. Gerow wrote: >Ierbs wrote: > >just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the adapters, but >no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. >Ira > >Ira - suggest getting Spax from British Parts Northwest somewhere in >your own OR neighborhood. I did that with my home-made front shock >setup and they work great and he has great prices. >-- >Steve Gerow >Pasadena CA >BN6 From peter at nosimport.com Thu May 7 10:56:25 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 11:56:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion Message-ID: <200905070956747.SM02468@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> I have a full Koni conversion kit NOS. still in the (somewhat tattered) box. The part numbers on the shocks are the Koni number for the Healeys. I could do some measuring, if needed. Peter C ==== At 05:59 PM 5/6/2009, Steve B. Gerow wrote: >Ierbs wrote: > >just looking for any specs or a part # on the shocks. have the adapters, but >no shocks.bilsteins are great just too expensive. >Ira > >Ira - suggest getting Spax from British Parts Northwest somewhere in >your own OR neighborhood. I did that with my home-made front shock >setup and they work great and he has great prices. >-- >Steve Gerow >Pasadena CA >BN6 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu May 7 11:16:56 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:16:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dear Abby friday funnies Message-ID: DEAR ABBY ADMITTED SHE WAS AT A LOSS TO ANSWER THE FOLLOWING: Dear Abby, A couple of women moved in across the hall from me. One is a middle-aged gym teacher and the other is a social worker in her mid twenties. These two women go everywhere together and I've never seen a man go into or leave their apartment. Do you think they could be Lebanese? Dear Abby, What can I do about all the Sex, Nudity, Fowl Language and Violence on My VCR? Dear Abby, I have a man I can't trust. He cheats so much, I'm not even sure the baby I'm carrying is his. Dear Abby, I am a twenty-three year old liberated woman who has been on the pill for two years. It's getting expensive and I think my boyfriend should share half the cost, but I don't know him well enough to discuss money with him. Dear Abby, I've suspected that my husband has been fooling around, and when confronted with the evidence, he denied everything and said it would never happen again. Dear Abby, Our son writes that he is taking Judo. Why would a boy who was raised in a good Christian home turn against his own? Dear Abby, I joined the Navy to see the world. I've seen it. Now how do I get out? Dear Abby, My forty year old son has been paying a psychiatrist $50.00 an hour every week for two and a half years. He must be crazy. Dear Abby, I was married to Bill for three months and I didn't know he drank until one night he came home sober. Dear Abby, My mother is mean and short tempered I think she is going through mental pause. Dear Abby, You told some woman whose husband had lost all interest in sex to send him to a doctor. Well, my husband lost all interest in sex and he is a doctor. Now what do I do? Remember these people can vote!! _____ From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu May 7 15:30:47 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 14:30:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? Message-ID: <968684.65755.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? Thanks in advance, Rick From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu May 7 15:52:56 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 17:52:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? References: <968684.65755.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0487136B399B4D76A3E5D4839F451B80@ophrdc.org> Brake master cylinder bore for the standard non servo BJ7 is 5/8". It's idential to the clutch master cylinder. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:30 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? > > Thanks in advance, > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu May 7 16:06:24 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 15:06:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? In-Reply-To: <0487136B399B4D76A3E5D4839F451B80@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Did one of the Healeys have a 3/4" bore? Rick --- On Thu, 5/7/09, Rich C wrote: From: Rich C Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 5:52 PM Brake master cylinder bore for the standard non servo BJ7 is 5/8". It's idential to the clutch master cylinder. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:30 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? > > Thanks in advance, > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 7 17:05:46 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 07:05:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? In-Reply-To: <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <0487136B399B4D76A3E5D4839F451B80@ophrdc.org> <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rick - The 3/4" bore MC is used as the Brake MC on servo assisted cars, which includes BJ8s and a small handful of BJ7s, MkII BT7s and BN7s that had the servo assist option. Alan On 5/8/09, HealeyRick wrote: > Did one of the Healeys have a 3/4" bore? > > Rick > > --- On Thu, 5/7/09, Rich C wrote: > From: Rich C > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 5:52 PM > > Brake master cylinder bore for the standard non servo BJ7 is 5/8". It's > > idential to the clutch master cylinder. > > Rich Chrysler > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "HealeyRick" > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:30 PM > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > > >> Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> Rick >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From Warthodson at aol.com Thu May 7 17:45:15 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 19:45:15 EDT Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- Message-ID: I my case, it is boxes & boxes of reproduction parts that don't fit or work or broke or look like cheap crap. Gary Hodson In a message dated 5/6/2009 4:30:59 P.M. Central Daylight Time, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: That is what happens if you collect parts for the restauration of British cars. In the end you have boxes and boxes of extra stuff, most of it NOS. Kees Oudesluijs Randy Hicks schreef: > Oh boy! Some people just suffer! :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > > > > > > > On May 6, 2009, at 3:38 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> in my boxes of NOS junk > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as warthodson at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu May 7 18:05:33 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 20:05:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? References: <0487136B399B4D76A3E5D4839F451B80@ophrdc.org> <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Alan, Sorry but I believe that servo assist m/c bore was 7/8", not 3/4". Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: ; ; "Rich C" Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > Rick - > > The 3/4" bore MC is used as the Brake MC on servo assisted cars, which > includes BJ8s and a small handful of BJ7s, MkII BT7s and BN7s that > had the servo assist option. > > Alan > > On 5/8/09, HealeyRick wrote: >> Did one of the Healeys have a 3/4" bore? >> >> Rick >> >> --- On Thu, 5/7/09, Rich C wrote: >> From: Rich C >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? >> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 5:52 PM >> >> Brake master cylinder bore for the standard non servo BJ7 is 5/8". It's >> >> idential to the clutch master cylinder. >> >> Rich Chrysler >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "HealeyRick" >> To: >> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:30 PM >> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? >> >> >>> Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? >>> >>> Thanks in advance, >>> Rick >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu May 7 18:22:39 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 10:22:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? In-Reply-To: <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <524323.75333.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <324DF412461547AF847A905B012834E7@PeterPC> 100s do (at least BN1) - I've just had cause to measure mine plus a spare Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: ; "Rich C" Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > Did one of the Healeys have a 3/4" bore? > > Rick > > --- On Thu, 5/7/09, Rich C wrote: > From: Rich C > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > To: healeyrick at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 5:52 PM > > Brake master cylinder bore for the standard non servo BJ7 is 5/8". It's > > idential to the clutch master cylinder. > > Rich Chrysler > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "HealeyRick" > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:30 PM > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Brake M/C Bore Size? > > >> Anyone know the bore size on the BJ7 brake master-cylinder? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> Rick >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au > > http://www.team.net/archive From kags at shaw.ca Thu May 7 18:28:02 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 17:28:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replies to - More choke cable info Message-ID: <9DF2FC817B6E4E14A5C878101ED85664@computer> Listers: Before the list gets intermittent again this weekend: Thank you to all that replied on my primary BJ8 choke cable repair post. We've received many interesting posts back, with lots of ideas and opinions . We will try some of them and report back to the list - this will probably take a couple of weeks or so while carbs get rebuilt, and the car is put back on the road. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu May 7 18:33:43 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 10:33:43 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2E607D24CC814B03B390F79E589F735E@PeterPC> Another possibility Pieter - I was speaking to Peter J today - he's just put Konis on a V8 powered 3000 he's doing - he's made brackets similar to the off the shelf ones, and has used Koni 80-1350 shocks. These are VW Beetle (original) rears Cheers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:52 AM Subject: [Healeys] "Koni" front conversion >I have a reproduction of the "Koni" front shock conversion to fit to my >BJ7 but don't have the shocks. can anybody tell me the part number of a >shock that fits or what car they came from? > cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au > > http://www.team.net/archive From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu May 7 18:57:58 2009 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 20:57:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replies to - More choke cable info Message-ID: Did any oif those ideas and opinions have to do with fixing the old part? ie. putting in a new cable? Stephen, BJ8 From MBran89793 at aol.com Thu May 7 19:44:45 2009 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 21:44:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies Message-ID: A firefighter was working on the engine outside the station, when he noticed a little girl nearby in a little red wagon with little ladders hung off the sides, and a garden hose tightly coiled in the middle. The girl was wearing a firefighters helmet. The wagon was being pulled by her dog and her cat. The firefighter walked over to take a closer look. 'That sure is a nice fire truck,' the firefighter said with admiration. 'Thanks,' the girl replied.. The firefighter looked a little closer. The fireman noticed the girl had tied the wagon to her dog's collar and to the cat's testicles... 'Little partner,' the firefighter said, 'I don't want to tell you how to run your rig, but if you were to tie that rope around the cat's collar, I think you could go faster.' The little girl repli ed thoughtfully, 'You're probably right, but then I wouldn't have a siren. **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg) From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 7 20:45:48 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 22:45:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop fasteners - the sequel Message-ID: Hey all, You may recall a few weeks ago I posted a plea for information on 8-36 machine screws in stainless, Phillips drive, oval head, for attaching the toggle clamps on the front corners of factory hardtops. I have no idea if the specification changed over time, but I have a very original hardtop dated 1960, and the threads are definitely 8-36. Many thanks to all who sent leads, but it turns out these seem to be unavailable. I had one offer from a fastener manufacturer in the UK to make them, but it was a minimum 250 quid, and I figured it may be a while before I could recoup this, selling 4 screws at a time to those of you out there with a hardtop restoration in your future. Peter Svilans and I checked out a few examples and it turns out that the toggle clamps are often fastened with self-tapping screws. I am sure this is not right - who would use a self-tapping screw to fasten something to a block of aluminum? My opinion is that when the original 8-36 machine screws loosened and fell out, or were removed and lost, owners also found replacements were unobtainable and used the self-tappers. On my top, one side had machine crews and the other had self-tapping screws. I had given up on the 8-36 screws and was over at Peter's discussing a solution. I figured I would try taking the nearest, larger thread I could find, and re-thread them with a die. Peter and I checked through some metric sizes and lo and behold discovered that an M4 with a 0.7 pitch is, for all intents, an exact match for an 8-36. Moreover, it is available in Phillips drive, oval head and stainless. So there we have it - I bought 4 and my toggle clamps are re-installed - the metric screws went in perfectly. I am sure the thread form is different, but guess what, once installed you can't tell - I tried and you really can't see them (and if any concours judge reading this ever removes one of these screws with a thread gauge in hand, I will break his Phillips drive). I have no idea how common this particular metric machine screw is, but Spaenaur carry them and the part number for a 16 mm length is 425-008. Cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 From mandmschneider at comcast.net Thu May 7 21:09:20 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 20:09:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Pinion Oil Seal Message-ID: <0224757B-0F20-402D-AA60-0A75FF5654EB@comcast.net> All, A day or two ago several of you were very helpful with your comments and answers regarding my efforts to replace the pinion oil seal in my Healey rearend. I have now borrowed a pneumatic impact tool to try to loosen the large flange nut. I am assuming the threads on the shaft are normal threads, that is, "lefty loosy/righty tighty". I have the flange locked with a metal rod and the park brake is set pretty hard. When I hit the nut with the impact tool all it did was make a lot of noise as it banged away. The nut did not budge. I recall the large nut on the first motion shaft in the gearbox was a left handed thread. Is that possible again here? I think not but I hate working against the tide. Marks 3 1966 NJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 7 21:15:46 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 11:15:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop fasteners - the sequel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mirek - Hey, great news. Thanks for letting us know! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 10:45 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Hey all, > > You may recall a few weeks ago I posted a plea for information on 8-36 > machine > screws in stainless, Phillips drive, oval head, for attaching the toggle > clamps on the front corners of factory hardtops. I have no idea if the > specification changed over time, but I have a very original hardtop dated > 1960, and the threads are definitely 8-36. > > Many thanks to all who sent leads, but it turns out these seem to be > unavailable. I had one offer from a fastener manufacturer in the UK to > make > them, but it was a minimum 250 quid, and I figured it may be a while before > I > could recoup this, selling 4 screws at a time to those of you out there > with a > hardtop restoration in your future. Peter Svilans and I checked out a few > examples and it turns out that the toggle clamps are often fastened with > self-tapping screws. I am sure this is not right - who would use a > self-tapping screw to fasten something to a block of aluminum? My opinion > is > that when the original 8-36 machine screws loosened and fell out, or were > removed and lost, owners also found replacements were unobtainable and used > the self-tappers. On my top, one side had machine crews and the other had > self-tapping screws. > > I had given up on the 8-36 screws and was over at Peter's discussing a > solution. I figured I would try taking the nearest, larger thread I could > find, and re-thread them with a die. Peter and I checked through some > metric > sizes and lo and behold discovered that an M4 with a 0.7 pitch is, for all > intents, an exact match for an 8-36. Moreover, it is available in Phillips > drive, oval head and stainless. So there we have it - I bought 4 and my > toggle clamps are re-installed - the metric screws went in perfectly. I am > sure the thread form is different, but guess what, once installed you can't > tell - I tried and you really can't see them (and if any concours judge > reading this ever removes one of these screws with a thread gauge in hand, > I > will break his Phillips drive). I have no idea how common this particular > metric machine screw is, but Spaenaur carry them and the part number for a > 16 > mm length is 425-008. > > Cheers, > > Mirek > 60 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 7 21:23:57 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 20:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Pinion Oil Seal In-Reply-To: <0224757B-0F20-402D-AA60-0A75FF5654EB@comcast.net> References: <0224757B-0F20-402D-AA60-0A75FF5654EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A03A5CD.9090802@comcast.net> It's a 'normal' right-handed thread. The torque is handled by the yoke and splines, the 'jesus' nut just secures the yoke to the pinion shaft. The torque spec on the nut is 150ft-lbs, and there is probably a large split lockwasher behind it. I don't think a typical impact wrench will do the job, you need a large breaker bar and possibly a length of pipe on the bar for leverage--aka a 'snipe'--and penetrating oil and heat might help. Make sure the car is properly secured, then get your cousin Rolf to put everything he has into it. Bob Mark Schneider wrote: > All, > > A day or two ago several of you were very helpful with your comments and > answers regarding my efforts to replace the pinion oil seal in my Healey > rearend. I have now borrowed a pneumatic impact tool to try to loosen > the large flange nut. I am assuming the threads on the shaft are normal > threads, that is, "lefty loosy/righty tighty". I have the flange locked > with a metal rod and the park brake is set pretty hard. When I hit the > nut with the impact tool all it did was make a lot of noise as it banged > away. The nut did not budge. I recall the large nut on the first > motion shaft in the gearbox was a left handed thread. Is that possible > again here? I think not but I hate working against the tide. > > Marks 3 > 1966 NJ8 > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From edriver at sasktel.net Thu May 7 21:32:06 2009 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 21:32:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop fasteners - the sequel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A03A7B6.3060403@sasktel.net> Hi Mirek If you write, or in your case phone Spaenaur and request their catalogue most items that you may require in the way of fasteners can be found it their catalogue. It is truly a great reference source. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon 53 BN1 65 Bj8 Mirek Sharp wrote: > Hey all, > > You may recall a few weeks ago I posted a plea for information on 8-36 machine > screws in stainless, Phillips drive, oval head, for attaching the toggle > clamps on the front corners of factory hardtops. I have no idea if the > specification changed over time, but I have a very original hardtop dated > 1960, and the threads are definitely 8-36. > > Many thanks to all who sent leads, but it turns out these seem to be > unavailable. I had one offer from a fastener manufacturer in the UK to make > them, but it was a minimum 250 quid, and I figured it may be a while before I > could recoup this, selling 4 screws at a time to those of you out there with a > hardtop restoration in your future. Peter Svilans and I checked out a few > examples and it turns out that the toggle clamps are often fastened with > self-tapping screws. I am sure this is not right - who would use a > self-tapping screw to fasten something to a block of aluminum? My opinion is > that when the original 8-36 machine screws loosened and fell out, or were > removed and lost, owners also found replacements were unobtainable and used > the self-tappers. On my top, one side had machine crews and the other had > self-tapping screws. > > I had given up on the 8-36 screws and was over at Peter's discussing a > solution. I figured I would try taking the nearest, larger thread I could > find, and re-thread them with a die. Peter and I checked through some metric > sizes and lo and behold discovered that an M4 with a 0.7 pitch is, for all > intents, an exact match for an 8-36. Moreover, it is available in Phillips > drive, oval head and stainless. So there we have it - I bought 4 and my > toggle clamps are re-installed - the metric screws went in perfectly. I am > sure the thread form is different, but guess what, once installed you can't > tell - I tried and you really can't see them (and if any concours judge > reading this ever removes one of these screws with a thread gauge in hand, I > will break his Phillips drive). I have no idea how common this particular > metric machine screw is, but Spaenaur carry them and the part number for a 16 > mm length is 425-008. > > Cheers, > > Mirek > 60 BT7 From bighealey at charter.net Fri May 8 06:04:30 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 05:04:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <221C92B159DD4DA7BF15DD2FFF57801A@TRACY> Thanks for that one. I have tears in my eyes and can barely type this reply I am laughing so hard. I haven't laughed this hard since we coaxed my little brother into a truck tire and sent it down the big hill. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MBran89793 at aol.com Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:45 PM To: editor at healeyclub.org; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies A firefighter was working on the engine outside the station, when he noticed a little girl nearby in a little red wagon with little ladders hung off the sides, and a garden hose tightly coiled in the middle. The girl was wearing a firefighters helmet. The wagon was being pulled by her dog and her cat. The firefighter walked over to take a closer look. 'That sure is a nice fire truck,' the firefighter said with admiration. 'Thanks,' the girl replied.. The firefighter looked a little closer. The fireman noticed the girl had tied the wagon to her dog's collar and to the cat's testicles... 'Little partner,' the firefighter said, 'I don't want to tell you how to run your rig, but if you were to tie that rope around the cat's collar, I think you could go faster.' The little girl repli ed thoughtfully, 'You're probably right, but then I wouldn't have a siren. **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=htt p :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net http://www.team.net/archive From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri May 8 07:57:50 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:57:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material In-Reply-To: <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net> <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> Folks, The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 and the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be aluminum, stainless steel, brass, or bronze. Thanks. Ron From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Fri May 8 08:11:33 2009 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 16:11:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material In-Reply-To: <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net> <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> Message-ID: <4e23c7250905080711l59e0f4ebx3667a493219a2f22@mail.gmail.com> Ron, one thing is certain: It can't be aluminum as aluminum cannot be chrome plated, only anodized. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2009/5/8 Ron Ray > Folks, > > The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 and > the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". > > Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be > aluminum, > stainless steel, brass, or bronze. > > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 8 09:48:03 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 17:48:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] More choke cable info -- In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A045433.6050600@chello.nl> That is why I prefer NOS original parts, but you would still get to much, as they are usually bought in lots. E.g with the choke cables it was a lot of ten assorted cables. Kees Oudesluijs Warthodson at aol.com schreef: > I my case, it is boxes & boxes of reproduction parts that don't fit or > work or broke or look like cheap crap. > Gary Hodson > > In a message dated 5/6/2009 4:30:59 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: > > That is what happens if you collect parts for the restauration of > British cars. In the end you have boxes and boxes of extra stuff, > most > of it NOS. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Randy Hicks schreef: > > Oh boy! Some people just suffer! :-) > > > > Randy > > > > Randy Hicks > > '56 100M > > '62 BN7 MkII > > '65 BJ8 > > '53 MGTD > > Healey100M at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On May 6, 2009, at 3:38 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > > >> in my boxes of NOS junk > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.19/2099 - Release > Date: 05/05/09 13:07:00 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as warthodson at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now > . > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.21/2102 - Release Date: 05/07/09 05:57:00 From jobu53 at hotmail.com Fri May 8 09:50:56 2009 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:50:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Denver Events Message-ID: Happy Friday All, I will be in Denver this weekend and was wondering if any British Car events are going on? Thanks Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 From cbaustin at verizon.net Fri May 8 10:24:30 2009 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 12:24:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net> <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> <4e23c7250905080711l59e0f4ebx3667a493219a2f22@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4D7B2FBA7B514199848C923211C56FEC@universal1> I have had several aluminum items chrome plated, including the windscreen stanchions on my 100's. CB From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 8 10:34:30 2009 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 06:34:30 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material In-Reply-To: <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net>, <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org>, <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> Message-ID: <2a3a5ef4.2fa7.486e.9bc0.e20627c754f1@aol.com> There must have been some stainless grilles. In the land of rust (yes the price of living in paradise) I have looked at a couple horizontal slat grilles that had zero pitting or corrosion. This just isn't normal for Hawaii. I should dig out the grille bits stashed in the garage loft and check with a magnet. Aloha Perry In a message dated 05/08/09 03:58:09 Hawaiian Standard Time, ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net writes: Folks, The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 and the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be aluminum, stainless steel, brass, or bronze. Thanks. Ron _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyguy at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From jwbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 8 11:48:35 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 12:48:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material Message-ID: <1214260229.327568.1241804915251.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net> From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri May 8 13:21:11 2009 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 12:21:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line References: Message-ID: <00bc01c9d012$25e76440$9101a8c0@home> Phil, I would recommend installing the clutch bleeder extension from Mr. Finespanner with a Speed Bleeder on the end. Makes the job so much easier. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:23 PM Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line >I was attempting to bleed the clutch on my '58 BN4, and accidentally > twisted off the end of the pipe (last inch) underneath the car. Noting > that > there isn't a bleed screw anywhere, has anyone else cut the pipe back a > little > ways and installed a short piece of pipe with a bleed screw on it? Also, > is > it possible to put in a section of rubber fuel line to bridge the gap? > > Thanks > Phil > **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at > $449! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http > :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri May 8 13:22:53 2009 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 12:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart References: Message-ID: <00d001c9d012$62afb1c0$9101a8c0@home> I'm one. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: ; "healey help" Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:39 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart > <> > > I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and > ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto > anymore), guys !! > > It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 8 13:29:01 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 15:29:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line In-Reply-To: <00bc01c9d012$25e76440$9101a8c0@home> References: <00bc01c9d012$25e76440$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: <017201c9d013$3e5f5180$bb1df480$@net> Look at: http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html for a price list and ordering information. You will NOT be disappointed! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey Bruce Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 3:21 PM To: PhilRitten at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line Phil, I would recommend installing the clutch bleeder extension from Mr. Finespanner with a Speed Bleeder on the end. Makes the job so much easier. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:23 PM Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 8 13:59:31 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:59:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line In-Reply-To: <00bc01c9d012$25e76440$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: <701178661.5528031241812771960.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "Noting that there isn't a bleed screw anywhere ..." It's on the slave cylinder. bs Phil, I would recommend installing the clutch bleeder extension from Mr. Finespanner with a Speed Bleeder on the end. Makes the job so much easier. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA >I was attempting to bleed the clutch on my '58 BN4, and accidentally > twisted off the end of the pipe (last inch) underneath the car. Noting > that > there isn't a bleed screw anywhere, has anyone else cut the pipe back a > little > ways and installed a short piece of pipe with a bleed screw on it? Also, > is > it possible to put in a section of rubber fuel line to bridge the gap? > > Thanks > Phil From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Fri May 8 14:58:52 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:58:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: Me too : BN7. #440 Richard of KY ------Original Message------ From: Healey Bruce To: shop at justbrits.com To: insptwo at msn.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Sent: May 8, 2009 14:22 I'm one. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: ; "healey help" Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:39 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart > <> > > I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and > ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto > anymore), guys !! > > It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From Awgertoo at aol.com Fri May 8 15:04:46 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:04:46 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: In a message dated 5/8/2009 4:59:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com writes: Me too : BN7. #440 Me three--BN7. Best--Michael Oritt **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 8 15:09:22 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 17:09:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017601c9d021$432116f0$c96344d0$@net> BN6L1160 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:59 PM To: Healey Bruce ; shop at justbrits.com ; insptwo at msn.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Me too : BN7. #440 Richard of KY ------Original Message------ From: Healey Bruce To: shop at justbrits.com To: insptwo at msn.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Sent: May 8, 2009 14:22 I'm one. From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri May 8 15:13:38 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:13:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart Message-ID: <001701c9d021$db873820$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> BN6L 2786 Peter, Toronto From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Fri May 8 15:22:14 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 14:22:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart References: <00d001c9d012$62afb1c0$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: Me to. Ron BN7 LA, CA From quenty at ntelos.net Fri May 8 15:22:52 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:22:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <001701c9d021$db873820$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <001701c9d021$db873820$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <1A8916AC-8216-4FA1-834B-93C406616475@ntelos.net> BN7L18440 (Daisy) Dave Schweninger From quenty at ntelos.net Fri May 8 15:49:56 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:49:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jerry Wall Message-ID: <636B253E-CE58-4BF3-A283-A45227D61674@ntelos.net> I think Jerry should be commended for his Brevity. Dave Schweninger From jwbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 8 18:27:15 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 19:27:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Jerry Wall -- thanks. brevity is a virtue? Message-ID: <1167121224.139879.1241828835444.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net> /9ehKbc: Permission denied From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri May 8 18:31:05 2009 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:31:05 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Later Friday Funnies EXTRA EXTRA Message-ID: To the Guy Who Tried to Mug Me in Downtown Savannah night before last. I was the guy with the black Burberry jacket that you demanded I hand over, shortly after you pulled the knife on me and my girlfriend. You also asked for my girlfriend's purse and earrings. I hope you somehow come across this message. I'd like to apologize. I didn't expect you to crap in your pants when I drew my pistol after you took my jacket. Truth is, I was wearing the jacket for a reason that evening, and it wasn't that cold outside. You see, my girlfriend had just bought me that Kimber Model 1911 .45 A CP pistol for Christmas, and we had just picked up a shoulder holster for it that evening. Beautiful pistol, eh? It's a very intimidating weapon when pointed at your head, isn't it? I know it probably wasn't a great deal of fun walking back to wherever you'd come from with that brown sludge flopping about in your pants. I'm sure it was even worse since you also ended up leaving your shoes, cellphone, and wallet with me. I couldn't have you calling up any of your buddies to come help you try to mug us again. I took the liberty of calling your mother, or "Momma" as you had her listed in your cell, and explaining to her your situation. I also bought myself and four other people in the gas station this morning a tank full of gas on your credit card. The guy with the big motor home took 150 gallons and was extremely grateful! I gave your shoes to one of the homeless guys over by Vinnie Van Go Go's, along with all of the cash in your wallet. I threw the wallet in a fancy pink "pimp mobile" parked at the curb after I broke the windshield and side window out and keyed the drivers side. I called a bunch of phone sex numbers from your cellphone. They'll be on your bill in case you'd like to know which ones. Ma Bell just shut down the line, and I've only had the phone for a little over a day now, so I don't know what's going on with that. I hope they haven't permanently cut off your service. I could only get in two threatening phone calls to the DA 's office and one to the FBI with it. The FBI guy was really pissed and we had a long chat ( I guess while he traced the number). I'd also like to apologize for not killing you and instead making you walk back home humiliated.. I'm hoping that you'll reconsider your choice of path in life. Next time you might not be so lucky. P.S. Remember this motto......an armed society is a polite society! **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd =May5509AvgfooterNO115) From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri May 8 18:44:47 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AAA Healey Sighting/Beware of AAA Towing Message-ID: <48720d20905081744k68058242l7a5a449b91cb35f2@mail.gmail.com> Went to my local AAA and got a tripwhatever. These are different than if you call in and it is done in Michigan. On the inside of the back cover is a picture of an open car on an open road. Closer examination shows it is an Austin Healey! I wonder where they get the idea for using these cars. At one time the State of Illinois *Rules of the Road* had and MGB on the cover. BTW, beware of AAA towing for your car. I had to have a tow and requested a flat bed trailer. In spite of the fact that I asked for a specific company that I knew would have the knowledge to make a wooden ramp to get the car on the flatbed without destroying the undercarage, , they sent some character, not doubt hard working, but who looked like he hadn't changed his work clothes in months, and who was just going to pull the car onto the flatbed, no doubt ripping out the bottom as he did. (What do you mean I damaged your car. That was the way it was when I found it!) When I called to complain they finally send the company I requested, but the driver said that they tried to get the price down because they wern't the closest towing company. Goodby AAA, hello Hagerty. Jack From edriver at sasktel.net Fri May 8 18:46:05 2009 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 18:46:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line In-Reply-To: <017201c9d013$3e5f5180$bb1df480$@net> References: <00bc01c9d012$25e76440$9101a8c0@home> <017201c9d013$3e5f5180$bb1df480$@net> Message-ID: <4A04D24D.6080409@sasktel.net> Hi John There is a slight change: www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/custom-made.html I should have mentioned this to your earlier but doing four web sites sometimes leads to confusion, especially for old guys like me. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon John Sims wrote: > Look at: > > http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html > > for a price list and ordering information. You will NOT be disappointed! > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Healey Bruce > Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 3:21 PM > To: PhilRitten at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line > > Phil, I would recommend installing the clutch bleeder extension from Mr. > Finespanner with a Speed Bleeder on the end. Makes the job so much easier. > > Bruce Steele > 1960 BN7 > Brea, CA > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:23 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding Clutch Line > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri May 8 18:49:41 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:49:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net><08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> Message-ID: <001401c9d040$0a5de5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> It seems to be stainless steel. However the surface has 49 years of scum built up on it, but the chrome looks like it could be brought back to life if it is done right. Would this be a good area for Flitz, and or Simichrome, with a lot of elbow grease. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Ray" To: Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material > Folks, > > The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 > and > the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". > > Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be > aluminum, > stainless steel, brass, or bronze. > > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri May 8 18:48:31 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:48:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jerry Wall -- thanks. brevity is a virtue? References: <1167121224.139879.1241828835444.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <8CBA5874A9E0437F9BC08352C4AAD8EB@ophrdc.org> I haven't seen even one of Jerry Wall's messages get through in months. It always simply says "permission denied" as seen below.... What did you do to deserve that, Jerry? Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry wall" To: Cc: Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 8:27 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jerry Wall -- thanks. brevity is a virtue? > /9ehKbc: Permission denied From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri May 8 19:36:25 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 21:36:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] hardtop fasteners - the sequel References: <001201c9cfda$1a82f520$4f88df60$@net> Message-ID: Fro those of you not familiar with Spaenaur: http://www.spaenaur.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Ray" > Hi Mirek, > > I must have missed part of this thread. Please provide the contact > information for Spaenaur. From thewalkers at qwest.net Fri May 8 19:48:18 2009 From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 18:48:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies In-Reply-To: <221C92B159DD4DA7BF15DD2FFF57801A@TRACY> References: <221C92B159DD4DA7BF15DD2FFF57801A@TRACY> Message-ID: <4A04E0E2.7090603@qwest.net> I usually don't like the friday funnies, they have made folks quit the list as they have been quite offensive (and not from this list member, lest anyone think I am implying that), but I must admit that I did forward this on, it is pretty funny... bob walker pnx az Tracy Drummond wrote: > Thanks for that one. I have tears in my eyes and can barely type this reply > I am laughing so hard. > > I haven't laughed this hard since we coaxed my little brother into a truck > tire and sent it down the big hill. > > Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! > President AHCUSA www.healey.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of MBran89793 at aol.com > Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:45 PM > To: editor at healeyclub.org; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies > > A firefighter was working on the engine outside the station, when he > noticed a little girl nearby in a little red wagon with little ladders hung > off > the sides, and a garden hose tightly coiled in the middle. > The girl was wearing a firefighters helmet. The wagon was being pulled by > her dog and her cat. > The firefighter walked over to take a closer look. 'That sure is a nice > fire truck,' the firefighter said with admiration. > 'Thanks,' the girl replied.. > The firefighter looked a little closer. > The fireman noticed the girl had tied the wagon to her dog's collar and to > the cat's testicles... > 'Little partner,' the firefighter said, 'I don't want to tell you how to > run your rig, but if you were to tie that rope around the cat's collar, I > think you could go > faster.' > > The little girl repli ed thoughtfully, 'You're probably right, but then I > wouldn't have a siren. > > > > **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at > $449! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=htt > p > :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg) > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thewalkers at qwest.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Fri May 8 19:50:11 2009 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:50:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart References: <00d001c9d012$62afb1c0$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: HBN7L 14494, 1962 tri-carb 2 seat, ground up resto, HBN7L 894 1959 2 seat. just starting a ground up resto. John Snyder >> >> It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? >> >> Ed From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 8 20:21:24 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 22:21:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AAA Healey Sighting/Beware of AAA Towing In-Reply-To: <48720d20905081744k68058242l7a5a449b91cb35f2@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20905081744k68058242l7a5a449b91cb35f2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <018701c9d04c$d9e1b6f0$8da524d0$@net> Take a look at the Literature page on my web site for a photo of the Rhode Island Drivers manual. Very enlightened state. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Feldman Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 8:45 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] AAA Healey Sighting/Beware of AAA Towing Went to my local AAA and got a tripwhatever. These are different than if you call in and it is done in Michigan. On the inside of the back cover is a picture of an open car on an open road. Closer examination shows it is an Austin Healey! I wonder where they get the idea for using these cars. At one time the State of Illinois *Rules of the Road* had and MGB on the cover. BTW, beware of AAA towing for your car. I had to have a tow and requested a flat bed trailer. In spite of the fact that I asked for a specific company that I knew would have the knowledge to make a wooden ramp to get the car on the flatbed without destroying the undercarage, , they sent some character, not doubt hard working, but who looked like he hadn't changed his work clothes in months, and who was just going to pull the car onto the flatbed, no doubt ripping out the bottom as he did. (What do you mean I damaged your car. That was the way it was when I found it!) When I called to complain they finally send the company I requested, but the driver said that they tried to get the price down because they wern't the closest towing company. Goodby AAA, hello Hagerty. Jack _______________________________________________ From jvwojcik at comcast.net Fri May 8 20:33:34 2009 From: jvwojcik at comcast.net (Jim Wojcik) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 21:33:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c9d04e$8d6542e0$a82fc8a0$@net> BN7 434. Jim Wojcik, MN -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:05 PM To: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com; healeybruce at roadrunner.com; shop at justbrits.com; insptwo at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In a message dated 5/8/2009 4:59:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com writes: Me too : BN7. #440 Me three--BN7. Best--Michael Oritt **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jvwojcik at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri May 8 20:54:22 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 02:54:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?two_seaters?= Message-ID: <20090509025422.19366.qmail@server278.com> BN6L 3894, bue over white. healeymanjim From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri May 8 21:02:42 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 03:02:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?ah_grill_materiel?= Message-ID: <20090509030242.28290.qmail@server278.com> when i started buffing the bn6 grill it soon had yellow looking material beneath the chrome which i assumed to be brass. it is non-magnetic. hjim From RCT2BNC at aol.com Fri May 8 21:49:36 2009 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 23:49:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] two seaters Message-ID: another one too...BN7L 9045 Ben Tucson, AZ **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 9 00:49:57 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 14:49:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies In-Reply-To: <4A04E0E2.7090603@qwest.net> References: <221C92B159DD4DA7BF15DD2FFF57801A@TRACY> <4A04E0E2.7090603@qwest.net> Message-ID: Wasn't it Bugs Bunny who quipped "Do I offend?" On 5/9/09, the walkers wrote: > I usually don't like the friday funnies, they have made folks quit the > list as they have been quite offensive (and not from this list member, > lest anyone think I am implying that), but I must admit that I did > forward this on, it is pretty funny... > > bob walker > pnx az > > Tracy Drummond wrote: >> Thanks for that one. I have tears in my eyes and can barely type this >> reply >> I am laughing so hard. >> >> I haven't laughed this hard since we coaxed my little brother into a truck >> tire and sent it down the big hill. >> >> Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! >> President AHCUSA www.healey.org >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of MBran89793 at aol.com >> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:45 PM >> To: editor at healeyclub.org; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Early Edition of The Friday Funnies >> >> A firefighter was working on the engine outside the station, when he >> noticed a little girl nearby in a little red wagon with little ladders >> hung >> off >> the sides, and a garden hose tightly coiled in the middle. >> The girl was wearing a firefighters helmet. The wagon was being pulled by >> her dog and her cat. >> The firefighter walked over to take a closer look. 'That sure is a nice >> fire truck,' the firefighter said with admiration. >> 'Thanks,' the girl replied.. >> The firefighter looked a little closer. >> The fireman noticed the girl had tied the wagon to her dog's collar and >> to >> the cat's testicles... >> 'Little partner,' the firefighter said, 'I don't want to tell you how to >> run your rig, but if you were to tie that rope around the cat's collar, I >> think you could go >> faster.' >> >> The little girl repli ed thoughtfully, 'You're probably right, but then I >> wouldn't have a siren. >> >> >> >> **************Big savings on Dellb s most popular laptops. Now starting at >> $449! >> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=htt >> p >> :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg) >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as thewalkers at qwest.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From larryrph at sbcglobal.net Sat May 9 05:37:59 2009 From: larryrph at sbcglobal.net (Lawrence Wysocki) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 04:37:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Heaaley 2 seater Message-ID: <293534.10253.qm@web83406.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> 1958 BN 6-L1071. Maroon over Silver larryrph at sbcglobal.net From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sat May 9 06:08:41 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 07:08:41 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Jerry Wall -- thanks. brevity is a virtue? Message-ID: <343780059.70841.1241870921803.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net> From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sat May 9 06:42:56 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 07:42:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material In-Reply-To: <001401c9d040$0a5de5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net><08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> <001401c9d040$0a5de5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <001201c9d0a3$adf549b0$09dfdd10$@net> Mark, How were you able to determine the base material was stainless steel? Aluminum, brass, bronze, and copper are all non magnetic. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Mark LaPierre [mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 7:50 PM To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material It seems to be stainless steel. However the surface has 49 years of scum built up on it, but the chrome looks like it could be brought back to life if it is done right. Would this be a good area for Flitz, and or Simichrome, with a lot of elbow grease. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Ray" To: Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material > Folks, > > The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 > and > the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". > > Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be > aluminum, > stainless steel, brass, or bronze. > > Thanks. > Ron From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sat May 9 06:52:48 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 07:52:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ah grill materiel In-Reply-To: <20090509030242.28290.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090509030242.28290.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <001301c9d0a5$0f105680$2d310380$@net> Jim, Brass does seem likely based on the grill my friend has. It has one of the lower mounting tabs broke off and the edge of the metal looks somewhat yellow. Thanks. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 10:03 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] ah grill materiel when i started buffing the bn6 grill it soon had yellow looking material beneath the chrome which i assumed to be brass. it is non-magnetic. hjim From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 9 07:19:16 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 15:19:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material In-Reply-To: <001201c9d0a3$adf549b0$09dfdd10$@net> References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net><08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org> <002101c9cfe4$fa979120$efc6b360$@net> <001401c9d040$0a5de5e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <001201c9d0a3$adf549b0$09dfdd10$@net> Message-ID: <4A0582D4.1070402@chello.nl> So is some Stainless steel. Kees Oudesluijs Ron Ray schreef: > Mark, > > How were you able to determine the base material was stainless steel? > Aluminum, brass, bronze, and copper are all non magnetic. > > Ron > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark LaPierre [mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net] > Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 7:50 PM > To: Ron Ray; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material > > It seems to be stainless steel. However the surface has 49 years of > scum built up on it, but the chrome looks like it could be brought back to > life if it is done right. > > Would this be a good area for Flitz, and or Simichrome, with a lot of elbow > > grease. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Ray" > To: > Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:57 AM > Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Grill material > > > >> Folks, >> >> The Anderson/Moment book states that the horizontal grills on the 100-6 >> and >> the 3000 BN7 and BT7 cars were "chromed". >> >> Does anyone know the base metal? As it is nonmagnetic, it might be >> aluminum, >> stainless steel, brass, or bronze. >> >> Thanks. >> Ron >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.23/2106 - Release Date: 05/09/09 06:54:00 From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Sat May 9 07:35:09 2009 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 09:35:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2009 Kingston Ontario In-Reply-To: <293534.10253.qm@web83406.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <293534.10253.qm@web83406.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Conclave 2009 in Kingston, Ontario starts 6 weeks from tomorrow. There will be six tech sessions at Conclave this year: Monday June 22 Michael Salter and Michael Oritt will talk about Targa Newfoundland and AHX12 Tuesday June 23 Martyn Jansen from Jule Enterprises will discuss in detail the strengths of his chassis. Wednesday June 24 A Head 4 Healeys will present their higher quality parts program and Charles Matthews will discuss the Bonneville reproduction car. Thursday June 25 Martyn MacGregor will discuss proper coach trimming of a Healey and Rich Chrysler and Peter Svilens will detail original features on four Austin Healey survivors. During Popularity at City Park on Tuesday the Kingston Boot'N Bonnet Club will host a Boot sale/Autojumble in the park. We would love to have you join us in Kingston. The registration form is at http://www.bob.byethost12.com/PDF%20Files/Registration_Form_Rev_2f.pdf See you at Conclave Laurie Wilford Conclave 2009 _________________________________________________________________ Internet explorer 8 lets you browse the web faster. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655582 From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat May 9 10:06:46 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 11:06:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? Message-ID: Hey folks, A buddy is looking at a 100/6 without motor (blown and apart). He found a nice 63 3000 motor and tranny to install. Do you know if it will fit easily on existing mounts etc? Many thanks! Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat May 9 12:34:24 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 14:34:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? References: Message-ID: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> Should drop right in. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "scott willis" To: Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 12:06 PM Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? > Hey folks, > A buddy is looking at a 100/6 without motor (blown and apart). He found a > nice > 63 3000 motor and tranny to install. Do you know if it will fit easily on > existing mounts etc? > > Many thanks! > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat May 9 13:11:52 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 14:11:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Thanks ALL!! Hopefully we'll have a new Healey soon in the area. Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat May 9 15:28:06 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 14:28:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> side shift 1006 vs center shift 63 3000 ira erbs On 5/9/09, scott willis wrote: > Thanks ALL!! Hopefully we'll have a new Healey soon in the area. > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live : Keep your life in sync. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From wwscpo at aol.com Sat May 9 16:20:06 2009 From: wwscpo at aol.com (wwscpo at aol.com) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 18:20:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior question Message-ID: <8CB9F0B7131D5E2-1394-3D0@webmail-mf16.sysops.aol.com> Hi All, I'm puttting in?the new interior in my BJ8 38046; and I have a question about the interior rear quarter panels.? My car has protruding threaded studs for the shoulder straps of the seat belt system.? Should the studs protrude through the quarter panels?? The holes I punched into the panels are only large enough to allow the bolts to thread into the studs.?? This arrangement is preventing me from installing the rear seat squabs as the quarter panels won't be pushed away.? It seems that if these studs protruded, there would be greater flexibility to the quarter panels. Thanks for your help, Bill Schumann Nahant, MA From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat May 9 17:13:39 2009 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 19:13:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] top question Message-ID: <4A060E23.8070200@htcnet.org> Has anyone bought a BJ8 top from these guys and if so how good was it? http://www.convertibletopguys.com/ John BJ8s From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat May 9 17:12:12 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 19:12:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior question References: <8CB9F0B7131D5E2-1394-3D0@webmail-mf16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Bill, These studs are the shoulder belt anchor points for seat belts. They will protrude through the panel and will be capped with chrome flat washers and chrome acorn nuts that are identical to the front seat pivot nuts. This picture taken on a Phase 1 BJ8 shows how the arrangement looks. I don't know about other makes, but the rear quarter trim panels I get from Heritage Upholstery and Trim have the holes already cut in the wood inside and only need to be carefuly cut through the outer skin of vinyl and thin foam padding to fit into place over the studs. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 6:20 PM Subject: [Healeys] Interior question > Hi All, > > I'm puttting in?the new interior in my BJ8 38046; and I have a question > about the interior rear quarter panels.? My car has protruding threaded > studs for the shoulder straps of the seat belt system.? Should the studs > protrude through the quarter panels?? The holes I punched into the panels > are only large enough to allow the bolts to thread into the studs.?? This > arrangement is preventing me from installing the rear seat squabs as the > quarter panels won't be pushed away.? It seems that if these studs > protruded, there would be greater flexibility to the quarter panels. > Thanks for your help, > > Bill Schumann > Nahant, MA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0717.JPG] From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat May 9 17:12:12 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 19:12:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interior question References: <8CB9F0B7131D5E2-1394-3D0@webmail-mf16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Bill, These studs are the shoulder belt anchor points for seat belts. They will protrude through the panel and will be capped with chrome flat washers and chrome acorn nuts that are identical to the front seat pivot nuts. This picture taken on a Phase 1 BJ8 shows how the arrangement looks. I don't know about other makes, but the rear quarter trim panels I get from Heritage Upholstery and Trim have the holes already cut in the wood inside and only need to be carefuly cut through the outer skin of vinyl and thin foam padding to fit into place over the studs. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 6:20 PM Subject: [Healeys] Interior question > Hi All, > > I'm puttting in?the new interior in my BJ8 38046; and I have a question > about the interior rear quarter panels.? My car has protruding threaded > studs for the shoulder straps of the seat belt system.? Should the studs > protrude through the quarter panels?? The holes I punched into the panels > are only large enough to allow the bolts to thread into the studs.?? This > arrangement is preventing me from installing the rear seat squabs as the > quarter panels won't be pushed away.? It seems that if these studs > protruded, there would be greater flexibility to the quarter panels. > Thanks for your help, > > Bill Schumann > Nahant, MA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0717.JPG] From satkinson7314 at charter.net Sat May 9 20:12:46 2009 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 22:12:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] steering box parts Message-ID: Desperately seeking parts for a 59 BT7L steering box.. Need a cover (raised aluminum type) and the steering shaft. Please contact me off list if you have either for sale or know of a source. Thanks From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 10 00:15:36 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 14:15:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They are identical in almost all respects. No problem. On 5/10/09, scott willis wrote: > Hey folks, > A buddy is looking at a 100/6 without motor (blown and apart). He found a > nice > 63 3000 motor and tranny to install. Do you know if it will fit easily on > existing mounts etc? > > Many thanks! > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 10 05:42:59 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 19:42:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Oh right, yes you will need the fibreglass center shift tranny cover, but otherwise it is exactly the same. On 5/10/09, I Erbs wrote: > side shift 1006 vs center shift 63 3000 > ira erbs > > On 5/9/09, scott willis wrote: >> Thanks ALL!! Hopefully we'll have a new Healey soon in the area. >> >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://www.bgeuroclassics.org >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY >> >> >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : Keep your life in sync. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From quenty at ntelos.net Sun May 10 07:10:24 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:10:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <13CED31C-62B1-4220-850E-B63CFCBA2F0F@ntelos.net> Isn't there a difference in how the trans cover seals off against the scuttle? Dave & Daisy > > On 5/9/09, scott willis wrote: >> Thanks ALL!! Hopefully we'll have a new Healey soon in the area. >> >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://www.bgeuroclassics.org >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY >> >> >> >> > > -- > > -- From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun May 10 07:21:48 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 08:21:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001c9d172$46d4d500$d47e7f00$@net> I believe do to the difference in the mating of the fiberglass transmission cover and the 100-6 frame, modifying the original 100-6 transmission cover to a center shift configuration is the simpler approach than trying to fit the fiberglass cover to the 100-6 frame. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 6:43 AM To: I Erbs; scott willis; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? Oh right, yes you will need the fibreglass center shift tranny cover, but otherwise it is exactly the same. On 5/10/09, I Erbs wrote: > side shift 1006 vs center shift 63 3000 > ira erbs > > On 5/9/09, scott willis wrote: >> Thanks ALL!! Hopefully we'll have a new Healey soon in the area. >> >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://www.bgeuroclassics.org >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 07:30:09 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 06:30:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brakes Message-ID: <4A06D6E1.9050501@comcast.net> List Gurus, When performing some, uh, spirited braking the other day the right rear wheel locked up before the others. I've checked the adjustment on both rears and it's OK--any ideas why one would lock before the others? TIA, Bob ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 10 07:33:54 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:33:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: <000001c9d172$46d4d500$d47e7f00$@net> References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> <000001c9d172$46d4d500$d47e7f00$@net> Message-ID: <001d01c9d173$f74de010$e5e9a030$@net> Not necessarily so. I have a center shift tranny and tunnel on my BN6 and it fits fine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Ray Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 9:22 AM To: 'Alan Seigrist'; 'I Erbs'; 'scott willis'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? I believe do to the difference in the mating of the fiberglass transmission cover and the 100-6 frame, modifying the original 100-6 transmission cover to a center shift configuration is the simpler approach than trying to fit the fiberglass cover to the 100-6 frame. Ron From quenty at ntelos.net Sun May 10 08:19:08 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:19:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: <001d01c9d173$f74de010$e5e9a030$@net> References: <95205427BF424D70880433A1A8A6937C@ophrdc.org> <173126440905091428l5678859bme1f668f2ac8b123@mail.gmail.com> <000001c9d172$46d4d500$d47e7f00$@net> <001d01c9d173$f74de010$e5e9a030$@net> Message-ID: John. Attached are some Heritage carpet Installation pictures. My BN7 Trans cover fits tight up to the scuttle. Does your center shift cover replace both the side shift cover and the Bell housing cover? Dave [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 005.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 010.jpg] On May 10, 2009, at 9:33 AM, John Sims wrote: Not necessarily so. I have a center shift tranny and tunnel on my BN6 and it fits fine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From mandmschneider at comcast.net Sun May 10 08:35:59 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 07:35:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior Message-ID: The threaded studs for the shoulder harness straps do extend through the quarter panels and. If you do not have a 3-point seat/shoulder in your car the threads can be protested and look a little improved with a couple of chrome finishing nuts on top of them. If the studs and other anchoring components were installed at the factory there should be two studs to each side of the cockpit, I am not sure if I understand the other part of your question, ie, installing the rear seat squab and some interference with the quarter panels. When I did my carpet job I had all of the interior out of the car. The rear seat back is held in place by five bolts. Three extend through wood frame at the bottom and through the body metal into the space above the rear axle. Two more boltx, one in each of the rear wheel wells extend through the metal and into the side frame of the back. I hope this helps. Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun May 10 08:43:44 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 06:43:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?two_seaters?= Message-ID: <20090510144344.12089.qmail@hoster902.com> '59 BN6 3725 -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Sun May 10 08:48:13 2009 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:48:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames Message-ID: <20090510144815.66DE853BC3D@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net> I am replacing the side window glass in my BJ8. What is used to secure the window frames to the glass? The archives yields posts referring to a rubber seal that is installed into the channel, then the glass and then oil is applied to expand the rubber. Other posts say this does not work and Moss no longer sells the seal. What is a guy to do? Herb Miller 1967 BJ8 Phase II 1962 BT7 MK II Tricarb 1960 AN5 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 10 08:53:42 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:53:42 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brakes In-Reply-To: <4A06D6E1.9050501@comcast.net> References: <4A06D6E1.9050501@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A06EA76.4000506@chello.nl> Brake fluid leakage or dampness could be the cause if it is a recurring affair, but often one rear wheel will lock slightly earlier than the other, as well due to road conditions (bumps, grit etc.). The rear will nearly always lock before the front, as the rear is lifted during breaking. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > List Gurus, > > When performing some, uh, spirited braking the other day the right > rear wheel locked up before the others. I've checked the adjustment > on both rears and it's OK--any ideas why one would lock before the > others? > > TIA, > Bob > > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.24/2107 - Release Date: 05/10/09 07:02:00 From mandmschneider at comcast.net Sun May 10 10:51:22 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:51:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brakes, Item 13 Message-ID: <224A66F5-25CA-4014-AF7F-263F7E99850F@comcast.net> Listers, The few times I have had a brake grab it has always been a rear brake and it has always been due to a contamination of the brake shoe due to a leaky axle seal. Seems odd that oil will caused the shoe to grab but I guess it is due to the small amount over a long period and getting baked into the friction surfaces . Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun May 10 11:15:05 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:15:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] two seaters In-Reply-To: <20090510144344.12089.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20090510144344.12089.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <03366298-CD45-49FD-ACFF-2BD4437BFD62@cox.net> I have a BN6. http://ewilkins.com/wilko My brother has a BN6 and I sold my other BN6 to my mechanic. On May 10, 2009, at 7:43 AM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > '59 BN6 3725 > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Pasadena CA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 10 11:20:29 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:20:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brakes References: <4A06D6E1.9050501@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, Almost for sure you have a leaky wheel cylinder or axle seal which has contaminated the brake shoe and made the brake lining sticky, causing it to grab before the other wheels. Pull the drum off the offending wheel and see which is leaking and go from there. If the contamination is light, you may be able clean the old shoes with a decontaminant - there were some postings on this a few weeks back. I have done this successfully a few times, but usually it does not clean them completely and is generally better to get new shoes. Cheers, Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 9:30 AM Subject: [Healeys] Brakes > List Gurus, > > When performing some, uh, spirited braking the other day the right rear > wheel locked up before the others. I've checked the adjustment on both > rears and it's OK--any ideas why one would lock before the others? > > TIA, > Bob > > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun May 10 11:50:10 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:50:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] two seaters In-Reply-To: <03366298-CD45-49FD-ACFF-2BD4437BFD62@cox.net> Message-ID: <192964.26562.qm@web52409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If anyone is counting... 1960 BN7 Best JK From PhilRitten at aol.com Sun May 10 11:59:38 2009 From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:59:38 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground Message-ID: I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to work on it, but I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual ones from car stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the tail pipes). Does anyone have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air far enough to be able to get under it? Thanks, Phil **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M ay51009AvgfooterNO62) From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 10 12:00:37 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 14:00:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames In-Reply-To: <20090510144815.66DE853BC3D@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net> References: <20090510144815.66DE853BC3D@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net> Message-ID: <000001c9d199$3961c500$ac254f00$@rr.com> Hi, Herb - Do what I did after trying the crappy Moss rubber that did not swell: take it to your local glass shop. They can install the glass using modern materials. It cost me a total of $20 for both sides, which is about what the useless rubber strips cost. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herbert Miller Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 10:48 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames I am replacing the side window glass in my BJ8. What is used to secure the window frames to the glass? The archives yields posts referring to a rubber seal that is installed into the channel, then the glass and then oil is applied to expand the rubber. Other posts say this does not work and Moss no longer sells the seal. What is a guy to do? Herb Miller 1967 BJ8 Phase II 1962 BT7 MK II Tricarb 1960 AN5 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun May 10 12:14:36 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 14:14:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? Message-ID: While we are on the obscure subject of engines in Bowling Green Kentucky I have a question for Rich. I have a friend in Bowling Green who has an engine, I believe BT7, from a wreck. The car had about three thousand miles on it when it was totaled and then the car sat until he bought it a few years ago. The carbs are painted Healey Green and it looks like a factory paint job, have you ever seen that before? Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M ay51009AvgfooterNO62) From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun May 10 13:08:40 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 12:08:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <396749.89804.qm@web52404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> A secure hydraulic jack to get the car up on sturdy jack stands on solid level ground and a creeper to slide around on. I can think of at least one highly rated shop that uses nothing more than this. Best JK --- On Sun, 5/10/09, PhilRitten at aol.com wrote: > From: PhilRitten at aol.com > Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 1:59 PM > I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to > work on it, but > I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual > ones from car > stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the > tail pipes). Does anyone > have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air > far enough to be > able to get under it? > > Thanks, > Phil > **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours > in Just 2 Easy > Steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M > ay51009AvgfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Sun May 10 14:00:04 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:00:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Jack up the front, place jack stands behind front wheels under the frame, and do the same in the rear. It will provide room for you and a creeper, plus. PhilRitten at aol.comPhilRitten@aol.com > I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to work on it, but > I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual ones from car > stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the tail pipes). Does > anyone > have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air far enough to be > able to get under it? > > Thanks, > Phil > **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy > Steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http: > //www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M > ay51009AvgfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun May 10 14:14:27 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:14:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D2C09B2-3632-47B9-B15F-804B3CA0AAB7@cox.net> The intake manifold should be green. That would be normal. that paint is usually long gone on cars that are driven. Wilko On May 10, 2009, at 11:14 AM, Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: > While we are on the obscure subject of engines in Bowling Green > Kentucky I > have a question for Rich. > > I have a friend in Bowling Green who has an engine, I believe BT7, > from a > wreck. The car had about three thousand miles on it when it was > totaled and > then the car sat until he bought it a few years ago. > > The carbs are painted Healey Green and it looks like a factory paint > job, > have you ever seen that before? > > Jim Werner > Louisville, KY > **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just > 2 Easy > Steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx > ?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M > ay51009AvgfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pollpete at ix.netcom.com Sun May 10 14:46:49 2009 From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:46:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A073D39.70109@ix.netcom.com> Use a roll-around "floor jack" - Craftsman has a 2 1/2 ton low profile model for about $50 - but be sure to place a length of sturdy 2x4 between the jack and the frame lift point to spread the stress on the frame. Jacking straight to the frame will dent it. Michael Hartfield wrote: > Jack up the front, place jack stands behind front wheels under the frame, > and do the same in the rear. It will provide room for you and a creeper, > plus. > > > PhilRitten at aol.comPhilRitten@aol.com > > >> I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to work on it, but >> I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual ones from car >> stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the tail pipes). Does >> anyone >> have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air far enough to be >> able to get under it? >> >> Thanks, >> Phil >> **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy >> Steps! >> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http: >> //www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M >> ay51009AvgfooterNO62) >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pollpete at ix.netcom.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > -- IMPORTANT - PLEASE NOTE The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this in error please contact the sender and destroy this message. From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com Sun May 10 15:54:42 2009 From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (randy dickson) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:54:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames In-Reply-To: <000001c9d199$3961c500$ac254f00$@rr.com> Message-ID: I did this on my BJ7 last winter and indeed, the Moss seals were too thick. I used thin 700c bicycle inner tubes, of which I had plent of lying around the garage. Worked great. Randy Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ7 60 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 1:01 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames Hi, Herb - Do what I did after trying the crappy Moss rubber that did not swell: take it to your local glass shop. They can install the glass using modern materials. It cost me a total of $20 for both sides, which is about what the useless rubber strips cost. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herbert Miller Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 10:48 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames I am replacing the side window glass in my BJ8. What is used to secure the window frames to the glass? The archives yields posts referring to a rubber seal that is installed into the channel, then the glass and then oil is applied to expand the rubber. Other posts say this does not work and Moss no longer sells the seal. What is a guy to do? Herb Miller 1967 BJ8 Phase II 1962 BT7 MK II Tricarb 1960 AN5 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 10 16:28:28 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 06:28:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 window frames In-Reply-To: <20090510144815.66DE853BC3D@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net> References: <20090510144815.66DE853BC3D@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net> Message-ID: I used bicycle inner tubes and some black silicone sealant on both sides to set it in the channel. After cutting away the excess she looks like a factory installation. On 5/10/09, Herbert Miller wrote: > I am replacing the side window glass in my BJ8. What is used to secure the > window frames to the glass? The archives yields posts referring to a rubber > seal that is installed into the channel, then the glass and then oil is > applied to expand the rubber. Other posts say this does not work and Moss no > longer sells the seal. What is a guy to do? > > Herb Miller > 1967 BJ8 Phase II > 1962 BT7 MK II Tricarb > 1960 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun May 10 18:08:27 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 17:08:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain Message-ID: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> There was some discussion a while back about an Austin-Healey Jamacain. There was one on e-bay at the time. No longer there. There is one now at the Specialty Sales, Classic and Exotic Cars, in San Carlos, CA. http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 10 18:34:30 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 08:34:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain In-Reply-To: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> References: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: That's the same one that was on ebay, at about twice the price.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:08 AM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett < thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: > There was some discussion a while back about an Austin-Healey Jamacain. > There > was one on e-bay at the time. No longer there. There is one now at the > Specialty Sales, Classic and Exotic Cars, in San Carlos, CA. > > http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ynotink at msn.com Sun May 10 18:53:01 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 00:53:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain In-Reply-To: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> References: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: I don't have much use for kit cars, but this one seems extremely well done. Bill Lawrence > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 17:08:27 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain > > There was some discussion a while back about an Austin-Healey Jamacain. There > was one on e-bay at the time. No longer there. There is one now at the > Specialty Sales, Classic and Exotic Cars, in San Carlos, CA. > > http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 10 19:16:12 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 20:16:12 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] me too, BN6L2660 Message-ID: <146853511.666613.1242004572928.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net> /5Pf0Th: Permission denied From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun May 10 19:24:06 2009 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 01:24:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain In-Reply-To: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> References: <3FE194A4B1234DF481480C7D5317A207@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: Is this the same car that was at the Russo & Steele auction atPebble Beach last year? Jean Caron > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 17:08:27 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain > > There was some discussion a while back about an Austin-Healey Jamacain. There > was one on e-bay at the time. No longer there. There is one now at the > Specialty Sales, Classic and Exotic Cars, in San Carlos, CA. > > http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621 From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sun May 10 20:04:41 2009 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 02:04:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <988685516.5485111242007481420.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Sure looks like it to me.B Here is the listing: http://www.russoandsteele.com/collector_car/austin_healey_jamaican__/40-2187. html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jean Caron" To: thehartnetts at earthlink.net, healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 9:24:06 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain Is this the same car that was at the Russo & Steele auction atPebble Beach last year? Jean Caron > From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 17:08:27 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain > > There was some discussion a while back about an Austin-Healey Jamacain. There > was one on e-bay at the time. No longer there. There is one now at the > Specialty Sales, Classic and Exotic Cars, in San Carlos, CA. > > http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 10 21:20:45 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 23:20:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? References: Message-ID: <533F993509C24873A5F2DC115D938DF5@ophrdc.org> Hi Jim, I've never personally seen the carbs painted engine green. Inlet and exhaust manifolds yes, heater pipe yes, heat shield yes, but not carbs nor their mounting fasteners. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com To: ahpowered at hotmail.com ; richchrysler at quickclic.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 2:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 engine and tranny in 100/6? While we are on the obscure subject of engines in Bowling Green Kentucky I have a question for Rich. I have a friend in Bowling Green who has an engine, I believe BT7, from a wreck. The car had about three thousand miles on it when it was totaled and then the car sat until he bought it a few years ago. The carbs are painted Healey Green and it looks like a factory paint job, have you ever seen that before? Jim Werner Louisville, KY ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun May 10 21:45:30 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 20:45:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain Trivia In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <365899.49133.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Back in the day I thought, from the magazine ads, that the Jamaican was the best looking body conversion around when, son of a gun if the guy who designed it didn't move to town. Chris Beebe came to Madison WI about 1970 and took over an ongoing business called Sports Car Specialists on Regent St. Chris ran a top notch operation that was a huge improvement over the previous propriators whose shoddy work inspired me to start doing my own repairs on my BJ8. Chris wore a white lab coat and never got dirty as all the work was being done by his staff of mechanics working under his guidance and direction. It was his brother who repaired my shock mount after it let go and put me into a snowbank. When I left for the east coast at the end of 1971 I gave them a 100 cylinder head... wish I had it now. I understand he closed the shop and got a govt contract to build electric cars. Best JK --- On Sun, 5/10/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain > To: "Len and/or Marge" , healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 8:53 PM > I don't have much use for kit cars, but this one seems > extremely well done. > Bill Lawrence > http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm > > > > (The Other) Len > > Vacaville, CA, USA > > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From dlee at usfamily.net Sun May 10 22:08:56 2009 From: dlee at usfamily.net (dlee at usfamily.net) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 23:08:56 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey on e-bay Message-ID: The competition prepared Sprite of one of our club members (Minnesota Austin Healey Club) who died much to early is for sale on e-bay. For those who may be interested, the URL is: http://tinyurl.com/q8agu6 Dave Lee MAHC 1966 BJ8 . --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! -- http://www.usfamily.net/mkt-freepromo.html --- From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun May 10 22:12:51 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 04:12:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?registry?= Message-ID: <20090511041251.6503.qmail@server278.com> steve byers, contact me off list. my email to you bounced back. have another bj8 to register. hjim From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun May 10 23:03:45 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 22:03:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Compression Message-ID: Hi All; I'm looking for some information: On a stock late model Healey, what is the pressure in "lbs per square inch"? I suspect it is around 150 lbs. As the compression ratio increases with modifications, I would expect the pressure to increase..does anybody know the pressure at various compression ratios..ie: 10:1, 10.5:1 and 11:1?? Thanks Paul From insptwo at msn.com Mon May 11 19:04:29 2009 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 21:04:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype In-Reply-To: <1528154323.514146.1242089860754.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1528154323.514146.1242089860754.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Thought you guys would like a glance at this. I recieved this email as classified ads manager for the Healey-Marque. Bill BJ7 Subject: Fwd: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype May 11, 2009 07:15:57 PM, lymeloc at roadrunner.com wrote: Dear Healey Fans: I would like to direct your attention to a very exciting opportunity. My gorgeous, fully restored 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype is up for auction!! You can view pictures of this car and all the details on this eBay auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290315763159 I am letting you know so you have the chance to add this car to your collection, or share the opportunity with someone else you think might be interested. Please feel free to pass this email along. I would like to see this car go to a museum or an appreciative and caring new owner. I welcome your email contact if you have any questions - and of course feel free to make me an offer via the eBay ad. Thanks for your time. Dick Sanders lymeloc at roadrunner.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 12 08:11:26 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 07:11:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Fasteners Message-ID: <4A09838E.40109@comcast.net> Listers, I've had an ongoing problem with sealing my BJ8's exhaust manifold to the downpipes (the nuts keep loosening and/or the gaskets blow out). I now believe the problem is due, at least in part, to my using flatwashers under the brass nuts (the holes on the downpipe flanges are too big for the nuts alone). What do others use to get a good, secure connection here? Brass nuts alone? Brass nuts with lockwashers (my probable next attempt)? Steel nuts with or without washers? Any and all suggestions welcome. Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com Mon May 11 20:40:27 2009 From: roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com (Ronald Corazzo) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 19:40:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: MAHC--- Free 1954 Austin of England Message-ID: <727837.90123.qm@web30603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, dlee at usfamily.net wrote: From: dlee at usfamily.net Subject: MAHC--- Free 1954 Austin of England To: Undisclosed-Recipient at yahoo.com Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 6:40 PM If interested, please respond directly to Patrick at the phone number or e-mail address shown in the e-mail below. From: Patrick Myhre [mailto:p_b_myhre at hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 2:30 PM To: Wolters, Dan Subject: 1954 Austin of England I looking to give someone my Austin. I have had the car since I was 15, and doing math that is 30 years ago. I bought from my grandfather. It is in good shape, but does not have a motor. I was always going to fix it up. Well, life happened and the money didn't. It had been stored inside for years, but the last 5 it has not. My folks are selling their lake home and it needs to go. By the way, I don't live with my folks. It is just where I kept it. Interior framing is there also. I will send a photo to anyone interested. I am willing to give it to someone that will complete my dream of putting it on the road. Please pass on this email to those that would be interested. Thank you, Patrick Myhre 320.360.5258 Mora, Minnesota Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. See how. Hotmail. goes with you. Get it on your BlackBerry or iPhone. Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.11/2089 - Release Date: 4/30/2009 5:53 PM --- Get FREE High Speed Internet from USFamily.Net! --- [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0169.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0170.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0171.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0172.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0173.JPG] From bighealey at charter.net Tue May 12 08:14:11 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 07:14:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Midget for sale Message-ID: <5D2E697CE879463B8DF5715735322DDC@TRACY> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1164806710.html Tracy From al at bighealey.org Tue May 12 08:09:30 2009 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 10:09:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT-7 top hardware needed Message-ID: <009401c9d30b$458ab8f0$d0a02ad0$@org> All: As I get the car ready to drive to Conclave, I am looking for soft top hardware on my '62 BT-7, either new or used. If anyone has such hardware and wants to part with it, please contact me off list. If anyone has a suggestion for a good source, please let me know. Thanks in advance!! Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 12 05:36:42 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 07:36:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Grille Question, BT7 Message-ID: <000601c9d2f5$ec6fcc20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I have read the BJ8 grille install that just went through the list but since the BT7 grille is different I thought I better ask to get it right. For the lower part of the grille does the the grille go on before the double stud or does the double stud screw in then the grille along with the other parts of the sandwich? Thanks, Mark From cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu Mon May 11 22:18:47 2009 From: cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 21:18:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas helmet connectors Message-ID: <1BBA6C40-7186-4982-8BA3-484F77690ACC@jcomm.uoregon.edu> Does anyone have any advice about tinning bronze Lucas helmet battery connectors and soldering them to the wires inside the trunk? Thanks for your help. Charlie Frazer cfrazer at uoregon.edu From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 11 11:58:49 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 13:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Optima Batteries Message-ID: <001101c9d262$23cf0e90$6b6d2bb0$@net> Can anyone tell me the battery part number for Optima batteries for my BN6? Do they come in 6 volt or only 12 volt? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From 55healey at comcast.net Mon May 11 22:26:36 2009 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 21:26:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <160B178F-6B66-43A8-A121-8977344F944B@comcast.net> I agree but use a floor jack and get the front up just high enough to get the jacks under the frame or suspension, then do the same at the rear. If you need it higher, repeat the process. If you raise the front too high you can't get the jack under the rear. Rob '55 BN1 On May 10, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Michael Hartfield wrote: > Jack up the front, place jack stands behind front wheels under the > frame, > and do the same in the rear. It will provide room for you and a > creeper, > plus. > > > PhilRitten at aol.comPhilRitten@aol.com From britcrs at gmail.com Tue May 12 13:12:13 2009 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 12:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Looking or some BN1/BN2 pieces Message-ID: I'm looking for a good AH 100 crankshaft and a block. Other engine parts would be a plus. Thanks, Marv J From Edward.Santoro at drbc.state.nj.us Tue May 12 07:45:49 2009 From: Edward.Santoro at drbc.state.nj.us (Ed Santoro) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 09:45:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <4A097D8D.5060502@drbc.state.nj.us> Is the Healey list down ? Please let m know. Thanks, EDS From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue May 12 11:15:32 2009 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 17:15:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart In-Reply-To: <00d001c9d012$62afb1c0$9101a8c0@home> References: <00d001c9d012$62afb1c0$9101a8c0@home> Message-ID: <051220091715.26369.4A09AEB400075BFC00006701223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> one BN7 one BN6 parts car one BN7 parts car -- Tim Davis BN7 -------------- Original message from "Healey Bruce" : -------------- > I'm one. > > Bruce Steele > 1960 BN7 > Brea, CA > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed's Shop" > To: ; "healey help" > Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:39 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not for the faint of heart > > > > <> > > > > I would STILL buy it ($2000-$2500) if I had money, space, talent, and > > ability (can't hardly DO the physical stuff required for that kinda resto > > anymore), guys !! > > > > It IS a 2-seater after all!! How many 2-seaters ARE on the List?? > > > > Ed > > _______________________________________________ From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon May 11 12:48:47 2009 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 11:48:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain Trivia References: <365899.49133.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <009201c9d269$1e82afd0$9101a8c0@home> And who worked for Chris? None other than Peter Egan before his writing career. Bruce Steele 1960 BN7 Brea, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jackson Krall" To: Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 8:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain Trivia > Back in the day I thought, from the magazine ads, that the Jamaican was > the best looking body conversion around when, son of a gun if the guy who > designed it didn't move to town. Chris Beebe came to Madison WI about 1970 > and took over an ongoing business called Sports Car Specialists on Regent > St. Chris ran a top notch operation that was a huge improvement over the > previous propriators whose shoddy work inspired me to start doing my own > repairs on my BJ8. Chris wore a white lab coat and never got dirty as all > the work was being done by his staff of mechanics working under his > guidance and direction. It was his brother who repaired my shock mount > after it let go and put me into a snowbank. When I left for the east coast > at the end of 1971 I gave them a 100 cylinder head... wish I had it now. I > understand he closed the shop and got a govt contract to build electric > cars. > Best > JK > > --- On Sun, 5/10/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > >> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Jamacain >> To: "Len and/or Marge" , >> healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 8:53 PM >> I don't have much use for kit cars, but this one seems >> extremely well done. >> Bill Lawrence > >> http://www.specialtysales.com/1959-austin-healey-100-6-jamaican-c-1999.htm >> > >> > (The Other) Len >> > Vacaville, CA, USA >> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 12 16:10:04 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 18:10:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test Message-ID: <000901c9d34e$67e328e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Nothing for 24 hours. Just checking. ML From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 11 18:18:12 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 08:18:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Test Message-ID: Test -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 11 09:06:13 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 11:06:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OPtima Batteries Message-ID: <000a01c9d24a$06c64600$1452d200$@net> Can anyone tell me the battery part number for Optima batteries for my BN6? Do they come in 6 volt or only 12 volt? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From oldsamdman at aol.com Tue May 12 18:11:05 2009 From: oldsamdman at aol.com (oldsamdman at aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:11:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Battery choice Message-ID: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> ? Gentlemen, ?? I currently have a group 27 battery in my BN4 which is begining to fail,?I am looking at the new style sealed and gel cell batteries but have had no experience with them.? Any suggestions or recommendations from experience from listers?? Thanks, Bob From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 12 18:44:30 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 20:44:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Testing, nothing yet Message-ID: <000601c9d363$faeda0b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> If anyone on the list is getting this could you relpy to me off the list. Thanks, Mark From pyoas at yahoo.com Tue May 12 20:02:15 2009 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:02:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Metallic Golden Beige paint code needed Message-ID: <186934.12818.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My car frame restoration is being done at Jule-Enterprises and will soon be ready for painting(frame & sub-chassis), and I need a paint code for the metallic golden beige color or something that is reasonably close to it that's currently being used as a subtitue or replacement for it. My car is a '67 that I've owned since 1972 and I want to return it to its original color. Many thanks! Patrick From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue May 12 20:17:36 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:17:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <160B178F-6B66-43A8-A121-8977344F944B@comcast.net> References: <160B178F-6B66-43A8-A121-8977344F944B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001801c9d370$fbf95870$f3ec0950$@net> Take a look at my site in the Miscellaneous section of the Technical page in which there is an article that I wrote for Healey Marque magazine which shows the method that I use to raise my car onto four jack stands. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert westcott Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 12:27 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground I agree but use a floor jack and get the front up just high enough to get the jacks under the frame or suspension, then do the same at the rear. If you need it higher, repeat the process. If you raise the front too high you can't get the jack under the rear. Rob '55 BN1 On May 10, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Michael Hartfield wrote: From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue May 12 20:15:18 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 12:15:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <4A097D8D.5060502@drbc.state.nj.us> References: <4A097D8D.5060502@drbc.state.nj.us> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D34@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Ed Sorry can't resist! I have been trying to let you know for the last two days that the Healey list is down, but have not been able to see your message nor reply as the Healey list has been down. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (Who has been staring at a blank screen for days) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Santoro Sent: Tuesday, 12 May 2009 11:46 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Is the Healey list down ? Please let m know. Thanks, EDS _______________________________________________ ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 12 20:23:47 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:23:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <160B178F-6B66-43A8-A121-8977344F944B@comcast.net> References: <160B178F-6B66-43A8-A121-8977344F944B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A0A2F33.4060308@comcast.net> Raise the front as high as you want then slip the floor jack under the differential from in front of the rear wheel on the side opposite the muffler (passenger side for L/H drive cars). Removal of floor jacks is the reverse. bs robert westcott wrote: > I agree but use a floor jack and get the front up just high enough to > get the jacks under the frame or suspension, then do the same at the > rear. If you need it higher, repeat the process. If you raise the > front too high you can't get the jack under the rear. > > Rob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jessmd1 at comcast.net Tue May 12 20:27:43 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:27:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] gear reduction starter and alternator Message-ID: <0F6D1DEF-520E-46DD-8B43-1B17F4622965@comcast.net> What is the best gear reduction starter and alternator for a 1954 AH BN1 in terms of ease of installation and reliability? From mandmschneider at comcast.net Tue May 12 22:08:46 2009 From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:08:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Exhaust Manifold Fasteners Message-ID: <3328E441-2125-4955-A0A0-F05993203042@comcast.net> All, I hope someone on the list has the solution to Bob's question regarding securing and sealing the the downpipes to exhaust manifold connection. Its is odd that I never had a problem until the last time I installed a new pair of mufflers and downpipes on my BJ8. I am using brass nuts and lock washers on the studs. About once every six months I have to put the car up on jack stands and tighten the nuts. I have dropped the downpipes and replace the gaskets but to no avail. The things still loosen with time. I just listen for the psst, psst,psst and then get out the jack stands and ratchet wrench. Marks 3 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 12 22:31:38 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:31:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Exhaust Manifold Fasteners In-Reply-To: <3328E441-2125-4955-A0A0-F05993203042@comcast.net> References: <3328E441-2125-4955-A0A0-F05993203042@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A0A4D2A.9080500@comcast.net> Seems to be an epidemic (or is it pandemic?) ;) Norman Nock suggests flat-filing the flanges on the downpipes; I think maybe the newer ones might be warped out of the gate (I've done this, didn't help me much). The newer gaskets don't seem too sturdy, either. I think the next time I have the downpipes out I might try to weld a small 'cuff' that extends the pipe into the manifold a bit. BTW, I found I could check/tighten the nuts using a 1/2-inch deep socket on the end of two extensions--one 3-inch and one 12-inch--and a 3/8-inch ratchet. It helps if at least one of the extensions is the 'wobbly' kind; e.g. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31203 Then, you can reach the nuts by laying on your back just behind the left front wheel and working the extensions and socket up to the exhaust flange nuts. At least you don't have to get out the floor jack and jackstands. On a recent road trip I ended up doing this almost daily. Bob Mark Schneider wrote: > All, > > I hope someone on the list has the solution to Bob's question regarding > securing and sealing the the downpipes to exhaust manifold connection. > Its is odd that I never had a problem until the last time I installed a > new pair of mufflers and downpipes on my BJ8. I am using brass nuts and > lock washers on the studs. About once every six months I have to put > the car up on jack stands and tighten the nuts. I have dropped the > downpipes and replace the gaskets but to no avail. The things still > loosen with time. I just listen for the psst, psst,psst and then get > out the jack stands and ratchet wrench. > > Marks 3 > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From pieters at pt.lu Tue May 12 23:21:02 2009 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:21:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] front shock thread Message-ID: <30B3C63D-DD68-4250-9496-3EF395AFCFFF@pt.lu> Being the ham fisted mechanic that I am , I have managed to strip one of the threads in the front shock mount. Since I am living in the land of the french speaking metric people I plan to mail order a thread repair kit from the UK. Can anybody confirm the UNF ? thread size? Thanks Pieter From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Tue May 12 23:26:34 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:26:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OPtima Batteries References: <000a01c9d24a$06c64600$1452d200$@net> Message-ID: I am fairly sure that the one I purchased recently was a size 34/78. If you go to the following web site http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com you can see lists of all the sizes. They do have 6 volt. Ron Fine ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 8:06 AM Subject: [Healeys] OPtima Batteries > Can anyone tell me the battery part number for Optima batteries for my > BN6? > Do they come in 6 volt or only 12 volt? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Tue May 12 23:27:05 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:27:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Battery choice References: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Optima Red Top Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 5:11 PM Subject: [Healeys] Battery choice >? Gentlemen, > > ?? I currently have a group 27 battery in my BN4 which is begining to > fail,?I am looking at the new style sealed and gel cell batteries but have > had no experience with them.? Any suggestions or recommendations from > experience from listers?? > > > Thanks, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 13 00:23:21 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:23:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Battery choice In-Reply-To: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4A0A6759.9040107@chello.nl> Stick to the old fashioned lead-acid type of a quality make like e.g. VARTA, Delco, Panasonic etc. They are cheap & plentifull and still hard to beat as a starter battery. If you use a trickle charger when the car is not in use for a longer period and keep an eye on the water level they are quite durable in our cars that are not used on a daily basis. These batteries are starter batteries and some (Japanese made) can last over 10 years. At least in the past and perhaps still, there are some reliability and durability problems with the expensive gel batteries. They may not be ideally suited as a starter battery and they may need a different, more refined charging proces for optimal results. Kees Oudesluijs NL oldsamdman at aol.com schreef: > ? Gentlemen, > > ?? I currently have a group 27 battery in my BN4 which is begining to fail,?I am looking at the new style sealed and gel cell batteries but have had no experience with them.? Any suggestions or recommendations from experience from listers?? > > > Thanks, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 13 00:35:35 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:35:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Exhaust Manifold Fasteners In-Reply-To: <3328E441-2125-4955-A0A0-F05993203042@comcast.net> References: <3328E441-2125-4955-A0A0-F05993203042@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A0A6A37.7030803@chello.nl> Replace the lock washers by normal ss or brass washers and use double nuts, providing there is enough thread on the studs. Fut using anti seizing compound. Also replacing the brass nuts with ss items may do the trick. The brass is fairly soft and the lock washer will work its way into the surface of the nut, thus creating some play over time. Kees Oudesluijs NL Mark Schneider schreef: > All, > > I hope someone on the list has the solution to Bob's question > regarding securing and sealing the the downpipes to exhaust manifold > connection. Its is odd that I never had a problem until the last time > I installed a new pair of mufflers and downpipes on my BJ8. I am > using brass nuts and lock washers on the studs. About once every six > months I have to put the car up on jack stands and tighten the nuts. > I have dropped the downpipes and replace the gaskets but to no avail. > The things still loosen with time. I just listen for the psst, > psst,psst and then get out the jack stands and ratchet wrench. > > Marks 3 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 02:28:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 16:28:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype In-Reply-To: References: <1528154323.514146.1242089860754.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Interesting. No doubt it is a very special car, but I'm not so sure about the price expectations! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 9:04 AM, wrote: > Thought you guys would like a glance at this. I recieved this email as > classified ads manager for the Healey-Marque. > > Bill > > BJ7 > Subject: Fwd: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype > > > > > May 11, 2009 07:15:57 PM, lymeloc at roadrunner.com wrote: > > > Dear Healey Fans: > > I would like to direct your attention to a very exciting opportunity. > My gorgeous, fully restored 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust > Prototype is up for auction!! You can view pictures of this car and all > the details on this eBay auction: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290315763159 > > I am letting you know so you have the chance to add this car to your > collection, or share the opportunity with someone else you think might > be interested. Please feel free to pass this email along. I would > like to see this car go to a museum or an appreciative and caring new > owner. > > I welcome your email contact if you have any questions - and of course > feel free to make me an offer via the eBay ad. > > Thanks for your time. > > Dick Sanders > lymeloc at roadrunner.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From gbrierton at hotmail.com Wed May 13 03:23:29 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 05:23:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] David Matthews Message-ID: David Matthews, please contact me off list. The e-address I have for you does not work. Gary Brierton From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 03:25:49 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:25:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Battery choice In-Reply-To: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBA176718F95FE-F20-1693@MBLK-M04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Excel Orbital is a good one too, just like the Optima. Been using them for 8 years... excellent, much more reliable. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:11 AM, wrote: > ? Gentlemen, > > ?? I currently have a group 27 battery in my BN4 which is begining to > fail,?I am looking at the new style sealed and gel cell batteries but have > had no experience with them.? Any suggestions or recommendations from > experience from listers?? > > > Thanks, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 03:39:38 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:39:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Midget for sale In-Reply-To: <5D2E697CE879463B8DF5715735322DDC@TRACY> References: <5D2E697CE879463B8DF5715735322DDC@TRACY> Message-ID: Wow, that has to be just about the nicest rubber baby buggy bumper midget I've ever seen. Too bad the daughter don't like it, not sure what she's been smoking. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 10:14 PM, Tracy Drummond wrote: > http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1164806710.html > > > > > > Tracy From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 03:45:34 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:45:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Fasteners In-Reply-To: <4A09838E.40109@comcast.net> References: <4A09838E.40109@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - I'm wondering, are your down pipe flex hoses in good shape? If not that might be causing the unscrewing. I use brass nuts only, with anti-seize, torqued down about 40 ft lbs. The trick is to ease them on in succession like when you put on a wheel or a cylinder head, which will help center and compress the gasket evenly. I also ALWAYS use brand new brass nuts and gaskets every time I do this. I also replace the studs if the show signs of corrosion. throw away any old brass nuts you have. Doing it this way I've never had a problem... last time I tightened my nuts on the BJ8 was probably in 1995. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 10:11 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I've had an ongoing problem with sealing my BJ8's exhaust manifold to the > downpipes (the nuts keep loosening and/or the gaskets blow out). I now > believe the problem is due, at least in part, to my using flatwashers under > the brass nuts (the holes on the downpipe flanges are too big for the nuts > alone). What do others use to get a good, secure connection here? Brass > nuts alone? Brass nuts with lockwashers (my probable next attempt)? Steel > nuts with or without washers? > > Any and all suggestions welcome. > > Bob > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 03:47:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:47:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: <4A09838E.40109@comcast.net> Message-ID: BTW, do not use flat washers or lockwashers. Brass nuts, when new and properly torqued, lock in place naturally. Washers will make it easier for the nuts to loosen. I suppose you can use lockwashers, but I hate using them if they weren't there originally. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 5:45 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Bob - > > I'm wondering, are your down pipe flex hoses in good shape? If not that > might be causing the unscrewing. > > I use brass nuts only, with anti-seize, torqued down about 40 ft lbs. The > trick is to ease them on in succession like when you put on a wheel or a > cylinder head, which will help center and compress the gasket evenly. I > also ALWAYS use brand new brass nuts and gaskets every time I do this. I > also replace the studs if the show signs of corrosion. throw away any old > brass nuts you have. > > Doing it this way I've never had a problem... last time I tightened my nuts > on the BJ8 was probably in 1995. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > > On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 10:11 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> I've had an ongoing problem with sealing my BJ8's exhaust manifold to the >> downpipes (the nuts keep loosening and/or the gaskets blow out). I now >> believe the problem is due, at least in part, to my using flatwashers under >> the brass nuts (the holes on the downpipe flanges are too big for the nuts >> alone). What do others use to get a good, secure connection here? Brass >> nuts alone? Brass nuts with lockwashers (my probable next attempt)? Steel >> nuts with or without washers? >> >> Any and all suggestions welcome. >> >> Bob >> -- >> ******************************************************************* >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> ******************************************************************* From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed May 13 06:21:36 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 04:21:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Healey_Exhaust__Manifold_Fasteners?= Message-ID: <20090513122136.11683.qmail@hoster902.com> When I had a stock setup, I used Grade-8 lockwashers with SS nuts and they didn't loosen. Regarding the previous comment about double nuts - there are thinner Jam Nuts available for just this purpose. -- Steve Gerow BN6 Pasadena, CA USA From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed May 13 06:29:59 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 04:29:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Front_Shock_Thread_options?= Message-ID: <20090513122959.17760.qmail@hoster902.com> My car has 3 @ 10mm bolts installed in place of the orig 3/8" bolts holding one of the shocks in place. They've been there since I acquired the car in 1999 and hold just fine. Some folks go to a 3/8" heli-coil but the 10mm would be easier and you could still go with the heli-coil as a followup. If one or more of the nuts have come loose you can go with the killmartin shock plate or this one: http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 -- Steve Gerow BN6 Pasdadena, CA USA From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 13 06:39:50 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 05:39:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] front shock thread In-Reply-To: <30B3C63D-DD68-4250-9496-3EF395AFCFFF@pt.lu> References: <30B3C63D-DD68-4250-9496-3EF395AFCFFF@pt.lu> Message-ID: <4A0ABF96.8020408@comcast.net> Just did this. Used a 'standard' (not UNF--BSF??) 3/8" x 24 thread kit. Since it was an inboard nut--of coarse--I had to use a 90-degree adapter for my drill and a stubby drill bit (think it was 25/64-inch--the kit will say). I used red locktite on the outer threads to help assure the coil won't come out (I use blue locktite on the bolt threads). Bob Pieter and Linda wrote: > Being the ham fisted mechanic that I am , I have managed to strip one of > the threads in the front shock mount. Since I am living in the land of > the french speaking metric people I plan to mail order a thread repair > kit from the UK. Can anybody confirm the UNF ? thread size? > Thanks > Pieter > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed May 13 08:43:39 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:43:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype In-Reply-To: References: <1528154323.514146.1242089860754.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <173126440905130743u470b0a41m618cbe7351304499@mail.gmail.com> If by special you mean butt ugly, then yes, very special. The proportions are weird, What could they have been thinking? Donald's cars have always had a special look to them, a grace if you will. It looks like it was hit repeatedly by an ugly stick. I know one person's beauty is another's ugly. After all people bought the Daimler SP250 http://www.sportscarmarket.com/profiles/2005/January/English/index.html :) cheers, Ira Erbs Portland, OR 59BT7 owned 35 years On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 1:28 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Interesting. No doubt it is a very special car, but I'm not so sure about > the price expectations! > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 9:04 AM, wrote: > > > Thought you guys would like a glance at this. I recieved this email as > > classified ads manager for the Healey-Marque. > > > > Bill > > > > BJ7 > > Subject: Fwd: 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust Prototype > > > > > > > > > > May 11, 2009 07:15:57 PM, lymeloc at roadrunner.com wrote: > > > > > > Dear Healey Fans: > > > > I would like to direct your attention to a very exciting opportunity. > > My gorgeous, fully restored 1958 Westland Healey Aristocrat Thrust > > Prototype is up for auction!! You can view pictures of this car and all > > the details on this eBay auction: > > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290315763159 > > > > I am letting you know so you have the chance to add this car to your > > collection, or share the opportunity with someone else you think might > > be interested. Please feel free to pass this email along. I would > > like to see this car go to a museum or an appreciative and caring new > > owner. > > > > I welcome your email contact if you have any questions - and of course > > feel free to make me an offer via the eBay ad. > > > > Thanks for your time. > > > > Dick Sanders > > lymeloc at roadrunner.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From jmnewt at comcast.net Wed May 13 08:44:40 2009 From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:44:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Project Message-ID: <6764898D52D84D85877BAAF2BD52496E@jackniolfz37if> I have decided to part with several projects which I have run out of both time and room for. I'm selling my 100-4 BN-1 and my 72 E-type 2+2. Wanted to give the list a first shot heads up before they go on EBay. Info is available off list by Email please. Jack From ampole at hotmail.com Wed May 13 15:03:00 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:03:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] hd8 carb bench settings / first start up Message-ID: Guys I have tried to start the bj8 today and had one or two issues, mainly caused by no spark, due to having an RVI negative earth conversion on the tacho, eventually traced the wiring and added an extra feed. Anway before it got to late I also managed to get petrol to the carbs (after one or two leaks) and looking at the float bowls the level seems the same on both (around 4-5mm from top?). I dont have a workshop manual with me (left it at work) so would like to start her up for the first time in the morning (minus one exhaust, gone back to manufacturers for mods). The carbs were proffessionally rebuilt and have 2 turns on what I believe is the idle screw (big one on its own?) and the throttle screws backed fully off, I assume the jet was set up correctly. Do these settings sound correct and would this give me a high / low idle? On startup if it is too high does the idle screw need to be wound in or out? Sorry if this sounds basic but I been brought up on fuel injection (gte's) and know less than nothing about SU's, and there doesnt seem much on the web for intial startups after rebuilds (so thought I would ask the all wise). ps I had to remove the oil flexi pipe to bleed thru and now have around 58psi oil pressure now on the gauge, is there anything else to worry about (ie are air locks common in the coolant?) many thanks Andy _________________________________________________________________ Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/ From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 13 15:26:51 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:26:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] hd8 carb bench settings / first start up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <213089990.7432141242250011642.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "The carbs were proffessionally rebuilt and have 2 turns on what I believe is the idle screw (big one on its own?) and the throttle screws backed fully off, I assume the jet was set up correctly. Do these settings sound correct and would this give me a high / low idle" That's enough for (only) a very slow idle. I'd open (counter-clockwise) the slow-run (idle) screws about 3 turns. The slow-run valves are a 'normal' screw: clockwise to close, counter-clockwise to open. Remove the dashpots from the caburettors and turn the key to 'run.' When the pump stops clicking--if it doesn't you have a fuel or air leak--check the levels of the jets and the fuel inside the jets. If you have roughly 1/10-inch (2-3mm) from the top of the jet bridge down to the tops of the jets, and a similar gap from the tops of the jets to the fuel level--on both carbs--you should be in the ballpark for mixture. If not, adjust the float levels and the jet level/mixture screws (small screws on the left-hand side of the carbs--clockwise to enrichen). With the dashpots off make sure the jet needles are properly located in the piston (varies depending on type/brand of needle; either base of shank or top of groove). re: "I had to remove the oil flexi pipe to bleed thru and now have around 58psi oil pressure now on the gauge" How? Just cranking the engine? That sounds way too high; if you remove the plugs and crank the starter you should get at most a few psi. Bob ... I dont have a workshop manual with me (left it at work) so would like to start her up for the first time in the morning (minus one exhaust, gone back to manufacturers for mods). The carbs were proffessionally rebuilt and have 2 turns on what I believe is the idle screw (big one on its own?) and the throttle screws backed fully off, I assume the jet was set up correctly. Do these settings sound correct and would this give me a high / low idle? On startup if it is too high does the idle screw need to be wound in or out? Sorry if this sounds basic but I been brought up on fuel injection (gte's) and know less than nothing about SU's, and there doesnt seem much on the web for intial startups after rebuilds (so thought I would ask the all wise). ps I had to remove the oil flexi pipe to bleed thru and now have around 58psi oil pressure now on the gauge, is there anything else to worry about (ie are air locks common in the coolant?) many thanks Andy From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 13 15:51:38 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:51:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] hd8 carb bench settings / first start up In-Reply-To: <213089990.7432141242250011642.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <571189132.7443161242251498673.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> also re: "the throttle screws backed fully off" Don't know exactly what that means; recommend you screw down the throttle screws till they just touch the stops on the shafts. Opinions vary on this, but you'll want some gas pedal/throttle action unless you have someone to work the throttles while you attempt to start from inside the cockpit. bs re: "The carbs were proffessionally rebuilt and have 2 turns on what I believe is the idle screw (big one on its own?) and the throttle screws backed fully off, I assume the jet was set up correctly. Do these settings sound correct and would this give me a high / low idle" That's enough for (only) a very slow idle. I'd open (counter-clockwise) the slow-run (idle) screws about 3 turns. The slow-run valves are a 'normal' screw: clockwise to close, counter-clockwise to open. Remove the dashpots from the caburettors and turn the key to 'run.' When the pump stops clicking--if it doesn't you have a fuel or air leak--check the levels of the jets and the fuel inside the jets. If you have roughly 1/10-inch (2-3mm) from the top of the jet bridge down to the tops of the jets, and a similar gap from the tops of the jets to the fuel level--on both carbs--you should be in the ballpark for mixture. If not, adjust the float levels and the jet level/mixture screws (small screws on the left-hand side of the carbs--clockwise to enrichen). With the dashpots off make sure the jet needles are properly located in the piston (varies depending on type/brand of needle; either base of shank or top of groove). re: "I had to remove the oil flexi pipe to bleed thru and now have around 58psi oil pressure now on the gauge" How? Just cranking the engine? That sounds way too high; if you remove the plugs and crank the starter you should get at most a few psi. Bob .. From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Wed May 13 17:45:02 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:45:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Restoration as Practice for Hubble Repair Message-ID: <48720d20905131645o368735d4n120e7229e420776c@mail.gmail.com> Tonight's ABC news had a story on how the astronauts trained for their Hubble repair space mission. It showed one astronaut whose son raced a go cart, and his home project was restoring a Sprite. They showed a nice picture of the front badge, but not much of the car. What they showed was well done. Jack From csooch1 at aol.com Wed May 13 18:06:25 2009 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:06:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] test - disregard Message-ID: test From csooch1 at aol.com Wed May 13 18:11:56 2009 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:11:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA calendar picture Message-ID: Folks, In the Austin Healey Club USA 2009 calendar, the May picture is a '59 BN4, I am asking myself what size tires this fella is running. They fill out the wheel well very nicely. Does anyone know or can someone find out what size tires are on that car? Also, what color is the hardtop, dark blue or black? Is the owner a list member I wonder? Chris BJ8 From drmasucci at comcast.net Wed May 13 18:14:06 2009 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:14:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting References: <48720d20905131645o368735d4n120e7229e420776c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <781957FD96414CD1B85ED4D0A2E73E64@lab092908> Well I finally got to see one. I've been around Austin Healeys since I was about 5 years old...I am now almost 53. I'm doing some work on my BJ8 and I had the engine out. While it was out I figured that I would get the flywheel resurfaced. I agonized as to where to have it done. The last flywheel that I had done for my 95 Ford Escort came back dished...not machined flat. Then I remembered KTR. KTR is a shop that maintains, restores, and generally deals in very expensive European cars. It's one of those places where you just start drooling as soon as you cross the threshold. First there's a showroom with vintage Ferraris, Astons, Alfas, etc. Then you enter the shop. In there they are working on Lolas, Porsches, Jaguars, Lotus, more Ferraris, etc. All kinds of open wheel vintage race cars are being worked on. A few motorcycles are also seen. There are beautiful and very expensive cars everywhere that you look. I figured they should be qualified to do my flywheel so that's where I went. When I got there it was just before 7 AM. They open at 7. I peer through the window and I recognize it immediately. Oh my God I finally got to see one. A Healey 100S! It was beautifully restored. Oh man. It seems that it was restored in Australia. I was told that it was one of the first 3 of the 55 made. I don't know it that was all true or not...but I finally got to see a 100S. Very nice. I'm happy now. Just had to tell you all about it. Dave BJ8 From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Wed May 13 18:43:04 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:43:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <781957FD96414CD1B85ED4D0A2E73E64@lab092908> References: <48720d20905131645o368735d4n120e7229e420776c@mail.gmail.com> <781957FD96414CD1B85ED4D0A2E73E64@lab092908> Message-ID: <20090514104304.168622ts0lixc108@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Dave 100.S cars were so common in Australia they were like bums, everyone had one. At one period we had about a dozen. Restorer Steve Pike had 5 side by side in his workshop recently. We have moved onto rarer models, or did we just sell out? Not many left. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 19:15:31 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 09:15:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <20090514104304.168622ts0lixc108@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <48720d20905131645o368735d4n120e7229e420776c@mail.gmail.com> <781957FD96414CD1B85ED4D0A2E73E64@lab092908> <20090514104304.168622ts0lixc108@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: Well Joe - If you'd like you can purchase that stunning and incredible Healey one-off, the 1958 Healey Westland Aristrocrat, for about the same price as your ozzie 100S.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290315763159 Think of the possibilities, you might even become famous in your community for purchasing such a unique vehicle. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 8:43 AM, wrote: > Dave > > 100.S cars were so common in Australia they were like bums, everyone had > one. At one period we had about a dozen. > > Restorer Steve Pike had 5 side by side in his workshop recently. > > We have moved onto rarer models, or did we just sell out? Not many left. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From bstarke at telus.net Wed May 13 19:43:08 2009 From: bstarke at telus.net (Bruce Starke) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:43:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rear axle seals Message-ID: <40E0A90E9AE845819DB1DF7C09F599EA@BruceStarkePC> Hi all, I am attempting to replace the rear axle seals of my tricarb and cannot get the bearing carrier nuts off. I have tried 3 different sockets and the nuts are so tight that they do not budge at all. I know the nuts are handed and just want to be sure I am turning them the correct way---the left rear wheel nut turns counterclockwise to loosen ( like the wire wheel spinner) and the opposite for the right rear wheel? thanks Bruce Starke Golden BC From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Wed May 13 20:14:30 2009 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 12:14:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels Message-ID: <002201c9d439$b9bbd950$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Hello All My BN1 which is now in the paint shop. I am looking to purchase the wheels but I cannot make up my mind as to get 48 or 72 spoke wheels I would look forward to your comments Regards Keith BT7 BN1 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 13 20:20:02 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:20:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] rear axle seals In-Reply-To: <40E0A90E9AE845819DB1DF7C09F599EA@BruceStarkePC> References: <40E0A90E9AE845819DB1DF7C09F599EA@BruceStarkePC> Message-ID: <00ea01c9d43a$7d331060$77993120$@rr.com> Bruce, the left nut is a left-hand thread: turn it clockwise to loosen it. The right nut is a normal right-hand thread. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Starke Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 9:43 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] rear axle seals Hi all, I am attempting to replace the rear axle seals of my tricarb and cannot get the bearing carrier nuts off. I have tried 3 different sockets and the nuts are so tight that they do not budge at all. I know the nuts are handed and just want to be sure I am turning them the correct way---the left rear wheel nut turns counterclockwise to loosen ( like the wire wheel spinner) and the opposite for the right rear wheel? thanks Bruce Starke Golden BC _______________________________________________ From bstarke at telus.net Wed May 13 20:44:32 2009 From: bstarke at telus.net (Bruce Starke) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:44:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rear axle seals In-Reply-To: <00ea01c9d43a$7d331060$77993120$@rr.com> References: <40E0A90E9AE845819DB1DF7C09F599EA@BruceStarkePC> <00ea01c9d43a$7d331060$77993120$@rr.com> Message-ID: <255E1FA7C45F4A28BC4E090FA06944E7@BruceStarkePC> Oh thanks !! Amazing how the nuts come loose when you turn them in the correct direction!! I have them loose now! thanks again ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: "'Healeys'" Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:20 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear axle seals > > Bruce, the left nut is a left-hand thread: turn it clockwise to loosen > it. > The right nut is a normal right-hand thread. Turn it counterclockwise to > loosen. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bruce Starke > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 9:43 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] rear axle seals > > Hi all, I am attempting to replace the rear axle seals of my tricarb and > cannot get the bearing carrier nuts off. I have tried 3 different sockets > and > the nuts are so tight that they do not budge at all. I know the nuts are > handed and just want to be sure I am turning them the correct way---the > left > rear wheel nut turns counterclockwise to loosen ( like the wire wheel > spinner) > and the opposite for the right rear wheel? > thanks > Bruce Starke > Golden BC > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bstarke at telus.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.27/2112 - Release Date: 05/13/09 07:04:00 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 20:45:29 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:45:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels In-Reply-To: <002201c9d439$b9bbd950$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> References: <002201c9d439$b9bbd950$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Message-ID: Keith - I personally like 48 spokes for the BN1 and BN2 and if you are sticking with 165x15s, then I'd stick with the 48s. If you buy 48 spoke daytons you will have no problems with them. The 48 spoke rims and 165 tires help preserve the lighthanded, elegant and superbly balanced steering and handling qualities of the 100. If you are putting fatter tires, then you have to get 60 or 72 spoke rims. Buy the rims and tires from Hendrix. Trust me on this. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 10:14 AM, Keith Bailey wrote: > Hello All > My BN1 which is now in the paint shop. I am looking to purchase > the wheels > but I cannot make up my mind as to get 48 or 72 spoke wheels I > would look > forward to your comments > > Regards Keith > BT7 > BN1 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed May 13 21:13:47 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:13:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <20090514104304.168622ts0lixc108@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <48720d20905131645o368735d4n120e7229e420776c@mail.gmail.com> <781957FD96414CD1B85ED4D0A2E73E64@lab092908> <20090514104304.168622ts0lixc108@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <173126440905132013q5484d557o8b3d9927050bb6ee@mail.gmail.com> The plastic ugly duckling of a Westland Protoypt (sic) is still available if you want rare.I Erbs Portland, OR On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was just off the trailer:) On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 5:43 PM, wrote: > Dave > > 100.S cars were so common in Australia they were like bums, everyone had > one. At one period we had about a dozen. > > Restorer Steve Pike had 5 side by side in his workshop recently. > > We have moved onto rarer models, or did we just sell out? Not many left. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- I Erbs Portland, OR From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed May 13 22:16:35 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:16:35 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels Message-ID: For what it is worth I agree totally with Alan. I went with a fatter tire (Thanks to Allen Hendrix's recommendation) and purchased everything from him. The man is a magician. I recently sent a customers' wheels, tires & rear drums to him because NO ONE could balance them or reduce the shakes. Had them back in a flash and the car is smooth as silk all the way to the Century Mark! One drum was off 2.5 oz and the other 1.5. Several spokes bent, wheels out of tune and the usual factory Vredestein slightly square tire issue. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed May 13 22:50:26 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 23:50:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <002201c9d439$b9bbd950$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Message-ID: <72F97A25E56441ADA608F28F25C66877@GregPC> I went middle of the road with 60 spokes for added strength and width on my BN1--to my eye the 72 spokes stand out as being very crowded in the spoke department and look much different than a 48, the 60s not so much so. Depends also on how you plan to use it, if it is purely a mild mannered cruiser 48 is probably the way to go, if you like to get spirited with it or autocross, then maybe an upgrade to 60 or 72 spokes is more in order. Greg Lemon From ynotink at msn.com Wed May 13 23:45:43 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 05:45:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] front shock thread In-Reply-To: <30B3C63D-DD68-4250-9496-3EF395AFCFFF@pt.lu> References: <30B3C63D-DD68-4250-9496-3EF395AFCFFF@pt.lu> Message-ID: 3/8" SAE = 3/8" UNF. Don't try this with BSF, they use a different thread pitch and angles and radiused thread root instead of straight cut. Bill Lawrence > From: pieters at pt.lu > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:21:02 +0200 > Subject: [Healeys] front shock thread > > Being the ham fisted mechanic that I am , I have managed to strip one > of the threads in the front shock mount. Since I am living in the land > of the french speaking metric people I plan to mail order a thread > repair kit from the UK. Can anybody confirm the UNF ? thread size? > Thanks > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From Hartangus at aol.com Thu May 14 04:37:47 2009 From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 06:37:47 EDT Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: test From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 14 06:29:57 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 08:29:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels References: <002201c9d439$b9bbd950$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> <72F97A25E56441ADA608F28F25C66877@GregPC> Message-ID: 2 years a go I decided to replace the 48 spokers on my BT7 that had been on the car since I bought it. I almost switched to the 60 spoke wheels, but then thought, heck, the car has gone for 46 years on 48 spokes with no failure, apart from a few broken spokes (3?), so there can't be much wrong with them. That 46 years included ownership as a foolish 20 year old that occasionally drove the daylights out of it (poorly). So I put 48 spokes back on. I like the open, "spidery" look of them. I opted for the wheels from Wheel Services in the UK, bought through Bob Yule at Autofarm, and I am totally happy with the choice. cheers, Mirek From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Thu May 14 09:28:36 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:28:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: I once pushed Fred Cohen's 100-S out of the way so I could help John Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer. I hold the distinction of pushing some of the most expensive Healey's ever sold. Jim Werner In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:22:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eyera3 at gmail.com writes: On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was just off the trailer:) **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu May 14 09:56:36 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:56:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f401c9d4ac$8f9ec420$aedc4c60$@rr.com> I once had the honor and pleasure of riding in Mike Salter's 100S at (if the speedo can be believed) around 120 mph through the streets of metropolitan Toronto! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 11:29 AM To: eyera3 at gmail.com; sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Sighting I once pushed Fred Cohen's 100-S out of the way so I could help John Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer. I hold the distinction of pushing some of the most expensive Healey's ever sold. Jim Werner In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:22:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eyera3 at gmail.com writes: On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was just off the trailer:) **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=htt p:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu May 14 10:21:24 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:21:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <00f401c9d4ac$8f9ec420$aedc4c60$@rr.com> References: <00f401c9d4ac$8f9ec420$aedc4c60$@rr.com> Message-ID: Good God, Steve!! Tell me more!!!!! GaryB _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. goes with you. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_ Mobile1_052009 From gaagten at hetnet.nl Thu May 14 10:39:58 2009 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 18:39:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Message-ID: Hello, Have a problem and do not how to solve this. At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) starts shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front tires were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced again. But no improvement. Any ideas? Ge Aagten The Netherlands BJ8 phase 1 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 14 10:57:39 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 18:57:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A0C4D83.1090505@chello.nl> Vredesteins?? MVG, Kees Oudesluijs NL Gaagten schreef: > Hello, > Have a problem and do not how to solve this. > At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) starts > shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front tires > were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced again. > But no improvement. Any ideas? > > Ge Aagten > The Netherlands > BJ8 phase 1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 From gaagten at hetnet.nl Thu May 14 11:01:27 2009 From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:01:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tires References: <4A0C4D83.1090505@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4D7CBCE804974E1FB2385A6D78D05CBE@Laptop> No, Uniroyals. Regards GA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "Gaagten" Cc: "Healey forum" Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 6:57 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > Vredesteins?? > MVG, > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Gaagten schreef: >> Hello, >> Have a problem and do not how to solve this. >> At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) >> starts >> shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front >> tires >> were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced >> again. >> But no improvement. Any ideas? >> >> Ge Aagten >> The Netherlands >> BJ8 phase 1 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: >> 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 >> >> > > > __________ NOD32 4063 (20090508) Informatie __________ > > Dit bericht is gecontroleerd door het NOD32 Antivirus Systeem. > http://www.nod32.nl From alexmm at roadrunner.com Thu May 14 11:09:53 2009 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 13:09:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve References: Message-ID: <9AA3B9AEC88B4DDD8B36409426676698@atc0f226cd3237> Can someone remind which way is on for the block-mounted water valve feeding the heater on a Big Healey? Thank you! == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu May 14 11:35:03 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 13:35:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve In-Reply-To: <9AA3B9AEC88B4DDD8B36409426676698@atc0f226cd3237> References: <9AA3B9AEC88B4DDD8B36409426676698@atc0f226cd3237> Message-ID: <012301c9d4ba$51e7c880$f5b75980$@rr.com> Hi, Alex - Water is allowed to flow to the heater core when the water valve handle is sorta vertical. Turn it 90 deg. clockwise from there to turn it off. If you look closely, the OFF position is stamped into the valve. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 1:10 PM To: Healey forum Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve Can someone remind which way is on for the block-mounted water valve feeding the heater on a Big Healey? Thank you! == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm From bn1 at pacbell.net Thu May 14 12:38:43 2009 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:38:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A0C6533.1030401@pacbell.net> I haven't driven or even pushed a 100-S but when we were Down Under in '81 visiting Joe and Hoo Roo, I took a picture of a 100-S from in a 100-S while we were both "at the Ton". Does that count? :-) Bill Barnett '53 BN1 Santa Ana, CA Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: > I once pushed Fred Cohen's 100-S out of the way so I could help John > Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer. > > I hold the distinction of pushing some of the most expensive Healey's ever > sold. > > Jim Werner > > In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:22:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > eyera3 at gmail.com writes: > > On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was just off > the trailer:) > > > > > > **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after > instant savings! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 12:57:19 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:57:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <4A0C6533.1030401@pacbell.net> References: <4A0C6533.1030401@pacbell.net> Message-ID: The topper of all is probably the rarest of all the Healey's. Goldie the 1957 Earls Court Show car was at Lake Tahoe in 2002 and I drove her from the transporter to the Hotel and back. What a day a one of a kind Healey and I got to drive her inside a Casino surrounded by Hotel security. The other special rare Healey was a one of three. It was one of the 3 CKD 1957 Healey's that were delivered to Mexico City and assembled at the WIlleys factory. We did a total restoration of the car. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 14, 2009, at 11:38 AM, Mr. Bill wrote: > I haven't driven or even pushed a 100-S but when we were Down Under in > '81 visiting Joe and Hoo Roo, I took a picture of a 100-S from in a > 100-S while we were both "at the Ton". Does that count? :-) > > Bill Barnett > '53 BN1 > Santa Ana, CA > > Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: >> I once pushed Fred Cohen's 100-S out of the way so I could help John >> Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer. >> >> I hold the distinction of pushing some of the most expensive >> Healey's ever >> sold. >> >> Jim Werner >> >> In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:22:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >> eyera3 at gmail.com writes: >> >> On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was >> just off >> the trailer:) >> >> >> >> >> >> **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after >> instant savings! >> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol? >> redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu May 14 12:55:17 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 14:55:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires References: Message-ID: Have the rear brake drums balanced. This has cleared up a lot of Healey shaking. There is probably already some discussion of this in the list archives. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gaagten" To: "Healey forum" Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 12:39 PM Subject: [Healeys] Tires > Hello, > Have a problem and do not how to solve this. > At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) > starts > shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front > tires > were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced > again. > But no improvement. Any ideas? > > Ge Aagten > The Netherlands > BJ8 phase 1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jwbn6 at verizon.net Thu May 14 12:56:58 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 13:56:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] test - pls delete Message-ID: <29613142.399721.1242327418925.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> /DGJZbM: Permission denied From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu May 14 13:03:04 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 15:03:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting- Rare References: <4A0C6533.1030401@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <859353A6686B4BE2B0328D4B90EDA4BA@ophrdc.org> How about helping the current owner find, bring home, help restore, almost totally assemble and drive the very first production Healey. It had it's debut at Tahoe in '02. This car (BN1L 138031) will be on special display at Conclave in Kingston, Ontario June 21st thru 25th. Rich Chrysler From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu May 14 13:29:53 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 15:29:53 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve Message-ID: Just like a water faucet, CC opens it up. Steven Kingsbury BN1 In a message dated 5/14/2009 12:27:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, alexmm at roadrunner.com writes: Can someone remind which way is on for the block-mounted water valve feeding the heater on a Big Healey? Thank you! == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as atightprod at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 15:31:24 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 17:31:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires References: <4A0C4D83.1090505@chello.nl> <4D7CBCE804974E1FB2385A6D78D05CBE@Laptop> Message-ID: <001701c9d4db$55b56f50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Tiger Paws? Good Lord, do they still make Uni -Roy and Als. They tore that building down here in town 10 years ago. Better check the date codes. ; ) > No, Uniroyals. > Regards GA > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Oudesluys" > To: "Gaagten" > Cc: "Healey forum" > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 6:57 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > > >> Vredesteins?? >> MVG, >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> Gaagten schreef: >>> Hello, >>> Have a problem and do not how to solve this. >>> At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) >>> starts >>> shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front >>> tires >>> were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced >>> again. >>> But no improvement. Any ideas? >>> >>> Ge Aagten >>> The Netherlands >>> BJ8 phase 1 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: >>> 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 >>> >>> >> >> >> __________ NOD32 4063 (20090508) Informatie __________ >> >> Dit bericht is gecontroleerd door het NOD32 Antivirus Systeem. >> http://www.nod32.nl > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 15:34:13 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 17:34:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test - pls delete References: <29613142.399721.1242327418925.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <002201c9d4db$ba0584e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Got it, but still in Edbonics. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry wall" To: Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 2:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] test - pls delete > /DGJZbM: Permission denied > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 15:36:29 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 17:36:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve References: Message-ID: <002701c9d4dc$0b55dd40$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Sorry, I'm a Hoosier,,,,,,,,, CC? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block heater valve > Just like a water faucet, CC opens it up. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > > In a message dated 5/14/2009 12:27:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > alexmm at roadrunner.com writes: > > Can someone remind which way is on for the block-mounted water valve > feeding > the heater on a Big Healey? > > Thank you! > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please > send > plain text.] > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: > 05/14/09 > 06:28:00 > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as atightprod at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after > instant savings! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 14 15:38:07 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:38:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> For those of you that may NOT have seen Goldie, see: http://www.justbrits.com/AHcars.html --->Earls Court 100-6 !!! <> I AM JEALOUS, David !!!! The following applies to any of you that KNOW Inan: Be SURE to ask her about Goldie's very FIRST (end of) trip & Inan's 'condition' upon arriving at the Hotel (1987 Encounter/ Conclave) AND Goldie's' !!!!!! And about the SECOND room's 'scent' the next morning !!!!!! FANTASIC tale!!!!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 14 15:47:35 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 23:47:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: <001701c9d4db$55b56f50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <4A0C4D83.1090505@chello.nl> <4D7CBCE804974E1FB2385A6D78D05CBE@Laptop> <001701c9d4db$55b56f50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4A0C9177.4090004@chello.nl> Uniroyals are quite common in EU, I think they are owned by Continental which again is probably part of the VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat concern. Kees Oudesluijs NL Mark LaPierre schreef: > > Tiger Paws? > > Good Lord, do they still make Uni -Roy and Als. They tore that > building down here in town > 10 years ago. Better check the date codes. ; ) > > > > >> No, Uniroyals. >> Regards GA >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" >> To: "Gaagten" >> Cc: "Healey forum" >> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 6:57 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires >> >> >>> Vredesteins?? >>> MVG, >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> NL >>> >>> Gaagten schreef: >>>> Hello, >>>> Have a problem and do not how to solve this. >>>> At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase >>>> 1) starts >>>> shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The >>>> front tires >>>> were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were >>>> balanced again. >>>> But no improvement. Any ideas? >>>> >>>> Ge Aagten >>>> The Netherlands >>>> BJ8 phase 1 >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >>>> >>>> http://www.team.net/archive >>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: >>>> 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> __________ NOD32 4063 (20090508) Informatie __________ >>> >>> Dit bericht is gecontroleerd door het NOD32 Antivirus Systeem. >>> http://www.nod32.nl >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.29/2114 - Release Date: 05/14/09 06:28:00 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu May 14 16:25:35 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 18:25:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve In-Reply-To: <002701c9d4dc$0b55dd40$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <002701c9d4dc$0b55dd40$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <00ec01c9d4e2$e74f2170$b5ed6450$@net> Counter Clockwise? Or could be Canadian Club with a splash of 7-up. That'll open anyone up but most probably to inane speech. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 5:36 PM To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; alexmm at roadrunner.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block heater valve Sorry, I'm a Hoosier,,,,,,,,, CC? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block heater valve > Just like a water faucet, CC opens it up. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 14 17:02:20 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 07:02:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shaking between 60 and 70 mph usually suggests that one of your front shocks are bad and thus the wheel is bouncing on the road when you drive (because the shock is not damping out the natural tendancy of the wheel to bounce when it is running at that speed). Check your shocks and you can also have someone drive next to you when you have the symptom - if they see the wheel bouncing or wobbling that will confirm it. Rebuilding your shocks will almost always fix this problem. Alan On 5/15/09, Gaagten wrote: > Hello, > Have a problem and do not how to solve this. > At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) starts > shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front tires > were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced again. > But no improvement. Any ideas? > > Ge Aagten > The Netherlands > BJ8 phase 1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 14 17:07:12 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 07:07:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] test - pls delete In-Reply-To: <002201c9d4db$ba0584e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <29613142.399721.1242327418925.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net> <002201c9d4db$ba0584e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: I like that word! On 5/15/09, Mark LaPierre wrote: > Got it, but still in Edbonics. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jerry wall" > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 2:56 PM > Subject: [Healeys] test - pls delete > > >> /DGJZbM: Permission denied >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 14 18:30:29 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:30:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> But ONLY if by Peter C. at WorldWide, Alan. !! Ed PS: Peter, is check in the mail???? From pennell at cox.net Thu May 14 18:31:24 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 20:31:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090514203124.FR3ZE.240579.imail@eastrmwml36> Ge, I agree with Rich. I balanced both rear drums on both of my cars and it made a huge improvement. Each was out of balance by 30-50 grams. Rides really smooth now. Keith Pennell > Hello, > Have a problem and do not how to solve this. > At a speed between 60 miles/hr and 70 miles/hr the car (BJ8 phase 1) starts > shaking. Over this this speed the shaking disappears again. The front tires > were balanced on the car and just today the back tires were balanced again. > But no improvement. Any ideas? > > Ge Aagten > The Netherlands > BJ8 phase 1 From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 14 18:35:34 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:35:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> er, maybe not, Jim!! <<...help John Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer.>> At Conclave '89, I pushed DD-300 FOUR times IIRC. And then at least a half dozen of the other 'imported' RACING Healeys (at LEAST twice each). How does that 'add up' ?????? !!!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 14 19:01:56 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 09:01:56 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: References: <4A0C6533.1030401@pacbell.net> Message-ID: David - If there was one perfect Healey in the world to drive into a casino for show, Goldie would be it! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 2:57 AM, David Nock wrote: > The topper of all is probably the rarest of all the Healey's. > > Goldie the 1957 Earls Court Show car was at Lake Tahoe in 2002 and I > drove her from the transporter to the Hotel and back. What a day a > one of a kind Healey and I got to drive her inside a Casino > surrounded by Hotel security. > > The other special rare Healey was a one of three. It was one of the > 3 CKD 1957 Healey's that were delivered to Mexico City and assembled > at the WIlleys factory. We did a total restoration of the car. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On May 14, 2009, at 11:38 AM, Mr. Bill wrote: > > > I haven't driven or even pushed a 100-S but when we were Down Under in > > '81 visiting Joe and Hoo Roo, I took a picture of a 100-S from in a > > 100-S while we were both "at the Ton". Does that count? :-) > > > > Bill Barnett > > '53 BN1 > > Santa Ana, CA > > > > Jwhlyadv at aol.com wrote: > >> I once pushed Fred Cohen's 100-S out of the way so I could help John > >> Chatham push DD-300 on a trailer. > >> > >> I hold the distinction of pushing some of the most expensive > >> Healey's ever > >> sold. > >> > >> Jim Werner > >> > >> In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:22:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > >> eyera3 at gmail.com writes: > >> > >> On the other hand I did drive Fred Cohen's 100S once, even if was > >> just off > >> the trailer:) > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after > >> instant savings! > >> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol? > >> redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi) > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net > >> > >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu May 14 19:47:09 2009 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:47:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NNE travel advice Message-ID: I'm working in Hanover, NH, and my Healey is parked in Bath, Maine. I'd like to drive the Healey between the two locations, and in case Murphy's law catches us up, I would appreciate some recommendations on shops and towing companies along the way. My driving route will take us from Bath -> Portland -> Buxton -> Waterboro -> Alfred -> Sanford/Springvale -> Lebanon, ME -> Rochester -> Northwood? -> Concord -> Lebanon, NH -> White River Junction, VT or Hanover, NH. Basically, after Portland, it's Rte 202 to Concord, then 89 to Hanover. Many thanks in advance, Tom From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 20:41:24 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:41:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve References: <002701c9d4dc$0b55dd40$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <00ec01c9d4e2$e74f2170$b5ed6450$@net> Message-ID: <001201c9d506$a403c3c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Gotch ya. So clockwise would be C . Anyway. I got to get a new plumber cause my cold opens CW and my hot opens CCW. So I guess we have to decide if its a hot faucet or cold faucet on the engine block. Now I got it. Thank You Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'Mark LaPierre'" ; ; ; Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 6:25 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Block heater valve Counter Clockwise? Or could be Canadian Club with a splash of 7-up. That'll open anyone up but most probably to inane speech. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 5:36 PM To: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com; alexmm at roadrunner.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block heater valve Sorry, I'm a Hoosier,,,,,,,,, CC? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block heater valve > Just like a water faucet, CC opens it up. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu May 14 21:26:57 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 03:26:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?healey_tires?= Message-ID: <20090515032657.621.qmail@server278.com> i had at least three BJ8s in the club that i could not get the shake out with balancing the tires, even new ones. they all had the brake drums out of round and one had to have about 130 grams taken off one side. check the drums and also the driveline which caused havoc with a BJ7. hjim From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri May 15 14:36:00 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 16:36:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NNE travel advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A0DD230.7010504@comcast.net> ah3000me wrote: > I'm working in Hanover, NH, and my Healey is parked in Bath, Maine. > I'd like to drive the Healey between the two locations, and in case > Murphy's law catches us up, I would appreciate some recommendations > on shops and towing companies along the way. Are you paranoid or a realist? :) I haven't used them, but British-car specific there is: Brit Bits 14 Sagamore Rd Rye, NH 03870 800.995.2487 There is a shop in Concord NH I use for general repairs; I don't know how they'd be with a Healey, but they've done good work on a 20 year old Audi I own. Steve & Dave's Tire & Auto Services 223 S Main St Concord, NH 03301 (603) 226-8675b For towing, I'd call AAA. If you don't have a card, I do. Give me a call. I'm in the Concord NH phone book. I'll be your passenger. And do yourself a favor -- don't get on I-89. When you get to Concord NH, stay on Rte 4. It ends at Rte 10 which takes you to Hanover. Rte 4 is much more Healey-friendly. Just adjust your time schedule by an hour. If you're passing through Concord on a Sunday or Friday night, call me and I'll buy you a beer. - Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri May 15 14:42:50 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 16:42:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block heater valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A0DD3CA.7030708@comcast.net> Mark LaPierre wrote: > Anyway. I got to get a new plumber cause my cold opens > CW and my hot opens CCW. It's not your plumber. It's supposed to work that way. If the knobs were levers, you'd pull both levers towards you, which makes the left (hot) one move CCW. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri May 15 15:01:49 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 17:01:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NNE travel advice References: <4A0DD230.7010504@comcast.net> Message-ID: I've done some major road trips in Healeys in the past and you'll usually find that if the car will go 10 miles without problems, she'll go a thousand miles. These cars were built for high speed sustained highway miles and they run all the better for it. You'll usually find that you, the driver will be the weakest link; the car will just want to go on and on. Once she earns your faith and trust, you'll find that this trip was the best thing you could have done both for yourself and for the car. Hope you don't build yourself up to be too paranoid and can just enjoy the trip. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent McLean" To: Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] NNE travel advice > ah3000me wrote: > > I'm working in Hanover, NH, and my Healey is parked in Bath, Maine. > > I'd like to drive the Healey between the two locations, and in case > > Murphy's law catches us up, I would appreciate some recommendations > > on shops and towing companies along the way. > > Are you paranoid or a realist? :) > > I haven't used them, but British-car specific there is: > > Brit Bits > 14 Sagamore Rd > Rye, NH 03870 > 800.995.2487 > > > There is a shop in Concord NH I use for general repairs; I don't know > how they'd be with a Healey, but they've done good work on a 20 year > old Audi I own. > > Steve & Dave's Tire & Auto Services > 223 S Main St > Concord, NH 03301 > (603) 226-8675b > > For towing, I'd call AAA. If you don't have a card, I do. Give me a call. > I'm in the Concord NH phone book. I'll be your passenger. > > And do yourself a favor -- don't get on I-89. When you get to Concord NH, > stay on Rte 4. It ends at Rte 10 which takes you to Hanover. Rte 4 is much > more Healey-friendly. Just adjust your time schedule by an hour. > > If you're passing through Concord on a Sunday or Friday night, call me > and I'll buy you a beer. > > - > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.brouillette at comcast.net Fri May 15 20:43:45 2009 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 02:43:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] NNE travel advice In-Reply-To: <549478407.7935221242441762972.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <990802927.7935391242441825550.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I agree with Kent, take the backroads and leave Rte 89 to the trucks and family trucksters heading to VT.B Rte 4 is a nice road across NH to the Hanover area.B Also if you wanted to see a bit more scenery, you could take a more northerly route from Portland and take Rte 302 to Conway NH and take the Kancamagus across the White Mountains and take Rte 3 to Rte 4 and enjoy a little NH on the way over.B Mike Brouillette Bedford, NH 59 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent McLean" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:36:00 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Healeys] NNE travel advice ah3000me wrote: B > I'm working in Hanover, NH, and my Healey is parked in Bath, Maine. B > I'd like to drive the Healey between the two locations, and in case B > Murphy's law catches us up, I would appreciate some recommendations B > on shops and towing companies along the way. Are you paranoid or a realist? :) I haven't used them, but British-car specific there is: B B Brit Bits B B 14 Sagamore Rd B B Rye, NH 03870 B B 800.995.2487 B B There is a shop in Concord NH I use for general repairs; I don't know how they'd be with a Healey, but they've done good work on a 20 year old Audi I own. B B Steve & Dave's Tire & Auto Services B B 223 S Main St B B Concord, NH 03301 B B (603) 226-8675b For towing, I'd call AAA. B If you don't have a card, I do. Give me a call. I'm in the Concord NH phone book. I'll be your passenger. And do yourself a favor -- don't get on I-89. B When you get to Concord NH, stay on Rte 4. It ends at Rte 10 which takes you to Hanover. Rte 4 is much more Healey-friendly. Just adjust your time schedule by an hour. If you're passing through Concord on a Sunday or Friday night, call me and I'll buy you a beer. - Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From ei_timo415 at yahoo.com Sat May 16 08:25:12 2009 From: ei_timo415 at yahoo.com (Roy Bowman) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 07:25:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Healey Sighting- Rare Message-ID: <382063.87928.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Never touched a 100S, but like the great Tex Ritter, "I dreamed I was there in hillbilly heaven. Oh, what a beautiful sight." Roy Bowman Indianapolis, IN BJ8 28985 --- On Thu, 5/14/09, Rich C wrote: From: Rich C Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Sighting- Rare To: "David Nock" , "Mr. Bill" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 3:03 PM How about helping the current owner find, bring home, help restore, almost totally assemble and drive the very first production Healey. It had it's debut at Tahoe in '02. This car (BN1L 138031) will be on special display at Conclave in Kingston, Ontario June 21st thru 25th. Rich Chrysler Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ei_timo415 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From schauss at worldnet.att.net Sat May 16 11:48:09 2009 From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 13:48:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration - solved Message-ID: <20090516174810.658E118764D@autox.team.net> It was the universal joints. When I pulled the drive shaft I found 1/16" of play in the rear universal. After spending about three hours trying to get the old ones out using the hammer method shown in the BMC shop manual I sent the drive shaft out to have the u-joints replaces and the shaft rebalanced. Not only has the noise disappeared but so has the vibration I was getting at 60-65 mph. Add another item to the list of things that can cause "scuttle shake". Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB From shop at justbrits.com Sat May 16 13:07:24 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 14:07:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration - solved In-Reply-To: <20090516174810.658E118764D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <> What I wrote Peter on 4/30 at 5:54AM: That said, I think (and what I would myself try FIRST), <<- U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft. What should I be looking for here?>> Same "rule" applies to u-joints only WORSE. They CAN 'feel' fine in sutu and STILL not be 'good'. I WOULD R & R them FIRST. <> I have NEVER been able to do that either, Peter!!! That IS why I use vice and a couple of sockets!!! POC. <> Excellent. BUT did they put the u-joints in CORRECTLY (so the zerk can be easily greased)???? VERY common mistake to get them wrong. See the poor pics in "Various Articles"-->'The "infamous" LBC U-joint'. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com PS: I KNOW I need better pics but I need a bad shaft to do first!! PPS: Almost forgot, I always have shafts balanced also. From pyoas at yahoo.com Sat May 16 14:44:57 2009 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 13:44:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard accelleration Message-ID: <137728.60533.qm@web90507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Peter, When you posted your problem and I read it, it was nearly identical to mine(the noise that is), and that is why I said that it was a good possiblity and you should consider the joints. Mine first did it on slow acceleration with two adults and two kids in the car going up a slight incline from a dead stop. This put a significant stress on the joints! I'll bet that if you had put four people in your car and duplicated what I did, you would have heard the noise right next to you. Patrick It was the universal joints. When I pulled the drive shaft I found 1/16" of play in the rear universal. After spending about three hours trying to get the old ones out using the hammer method shown in the BMC shop manual I sent the drive shaft out to have the u-joints replaces and the shaft rebalanced. Not only has the noise disappeared but so has the vibration I was getting at 60-65 mph. Add another item to the list of things that can cause "scuttle shake". Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sat May 16 15:56:14 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 16:56:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape Message-ID: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> What is the efficacy of using exhaust manifold tape to decrease heat under the hood of an AH BN1? Is there a particular kind of tape better than others? From bighealey at astound.net Sat May 16 16:07:10 2009 From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 15:07:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Started pinion meshed to ring gear Message-ID: <8437086A1BE648FF91458F4F4DE898DF@Soderling> Help needed: Cully Anderson and I were touring the Napa wine country this morning and when he started his 100 six after a stop. It started but produced a loud grinding noise with the engine running. He shut it off immediately. He restarted it several times and same sound. The sound seemed to come from the starter area so I think the starter pinion teeth are stuck in the flywheel ring gear teeth. Tried banging on the starter to dislodge but this did not brake it loose. Also tried coasting the car and dropping the clutch to brake it loose - did not work. Had the car hauled to his house. Are there any tricks to dislodging the starter and flywheel gears short of pulling off the starter? Thanks for the help. Vrooom vrooom, John Erika the Red From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat May 16 16:34:11 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 18:34:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Started pinion meshed to ring gear In-Reply-To: <8437086A1BE648FF91458F4F4DE898DF@Soderling> References: <8437086A1BE648FF91458F4F4DE898DF@Soderling> Message-ID: Hi John, try turning the square on the end of the shaft under the metal cap. When you turn the motor backwards the bendix will pull the gear out of mesh. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Soderling Sent: May 16, 2009 6:07 PM To: Healey List Cc: Cully BigHealey Anderson Subject: [Healeys] Started pinion meshed to ring gear Help needed: Cully Anderson and I were touring the Napa wine country this morning and when he started his 100 six after a stop. It started but produced a loud grinding noise with the engine running. He shut it off immediately. He restarted it several times and same sound. The sound seemed to come from the starter area so I think the starter pinion teeth are stuck in the flywheel ring gear teeth. Tried banging on the starter to dislodge but this did not brake it loose. Also tried coasting the car and dropping the clutch to brake it loose - did not work. Had the car hauled to his house. Are there any tricks to dislodging the starter and flywheel gears short of pulling off the starter? Thanks for the help. Vrooom vrooom, John Erika the Red From CAWS52803 at aol.com Sat May 16 17:22:34 2009 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 19:22:34 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! Message-ID: Recently the little (1") cap/button popped off it's bracket. This is the dimmer switch that controls the high/low headlights on my Bugeye - same as my BN4. I cleaned it up and pushed it back on, but because of the spring, it just pops back off. There is no apparent way to fastened it down. Even the Parts Manual doesn't show any method to secure the cap. And looking at the bracket, there is nothing that appears to be a switch to control the headlights. It is just a solid piece with the 3 wires connected to the underneath. Any guidance and/or explanation is greatly appreciated. Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) From schauss at worldnet.att.net Sat May 16 17:29:11 2009 From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 19:29:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090516232912.6CEF318764D@autox.team.net> Rudy, I had the same thing happen. The cap is supposed to be held on by a rivet which eventually wears out to the point where the head is too small to hold the cap in place. I solved the problem by buying a new switch. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CAWS52803 at aol.com > Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 7:23 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! > > Recently the little (1") cap/button popped off it's bracket. This is the > dimmer switch that controls the high/low headlights on my Bugeye - same as > my > BN4. I cleaned it up and pushed it back on, but because of the spring, it > just pops back off. There is no apparent way to fastened it down. Even > the > Parts Manual doesn't show any method to secure the cap. And looking at > the > bracket, there is nothing that appears to be a switch to control the > headlights. It is just a solid piece with the 3 wires connected to the > underneath. > Any guidance and/or explanation is greatly appreciated. > Rudy Streng > Lenoir, NC > **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in > the U.S. > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism- > week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 16 17:56:14 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 23:56:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape In-Reply-To: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1574048646.8600351242518174574.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'm using tape on the downpipes of my BJ8. The tape works well at keeping heat in, no question. My car's exhaust is pistol hot at the tail pipes (that's heat that isn't being dissipated in the engine bay). I believe the engine runs a bit cooler for it. I posed this question to the List and some said the tape traps moisture but that made no sense to me because any moisture (e.g. rain) on hot exhaust parts get evaporated immediately (plus, I sprayed high-temp silicone sealant on the tape and it appears to make it waterproof). I read an explanation in hot rod magazines that seems more logical to me: the heat retained in the manifold or pipes is more than mild steel or cast iron can endure and the parts disintegrate from the inside out (the hot rodders call the effect on headers "mummification"--probably not doing much good for my glasspack mufflers, either). The ceramic coatings--e.g. Jet-Hot--supposedly handle this problem by coating inside and out. I can't vouch for the ceramic coating as I haven't used it (yet), but others probably will. If you do wrap your manifold you should wrap your downpipe as well, as the gas passing from a hot to a cooler, denser region will encounter increased back pressure (or so it was explained to me by a Jet-Hot rep). Bob What is the efficacy of using exhaust manifold tape to decrease heat under the hood of an AH BN1? Is there a particular kind of tape better than others? _______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 16 18:11:41 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:11:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape In-Reply-To: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> References: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> Message-ID: Jess - This has been covered in the archives for this list several times over, do you know how to search the archives? The short of it - don't wrap your headers. They cause the metals to overheat and crack or fail. A far better option is to have your headers and downpipes Jet Hot coated. Trust me, nothing works better than this stuff. Google jet hot coatings. Alan On 5/17/09, Jess Power wrote: > What is the efficacy of using exhaust manifold tape to decrease > heat under the hood of an AH BN1? Is there a particular kind of tape > better than others? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 16 18:16:42 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:16:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape In-Reply-To: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> References: <9F7A6FF3-9A7E-4A35-8094-26529999F444@comcast.net> Message-ID: Incidentally, Jet Hot reduces under bonnet temps SUBSTANTIALLY, and has the added benefit of stopping the cooking of your carbs in the process. Anyone who has a hot engine bay, Jet Hot coatings should be the first step in your fix to cool it down. On 5/17/09, Jess Power wrote: > What is the efficacy of using exhaust manifold tape to decrease > heat under the hood of an AH BN1? Is there a particular kind of tape > better than others? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 16 18:23:36 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 00:23:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <186285452.8607301242519816214.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> BTW, Alan owns the Jet-Hot franchise in Hong Kong. Just kidding (I think ;) bs ps. FWIW, I used header wrap, SS clamps and sealant from J. C. Whitney--'DEI' brand. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Jess Power" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 5:16:42 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape Incidentally, Jet Hot reduces under bonnet temps SUBSTANTIALLY, and has the added benefit of stopping the cooking of your carbs in the process. Anyone who has a hot engine bay, Jet Hot coatings should be the first step in your fix to cool it down. On 5/17/09, Jess Power wrote: > What is the efficacy of using exhaust manifold tape to decrease > heat under the hood of an AH BN1? Is there a particular kind of tape > better than others? -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Sat May 16 18:43:28 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 19:43:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] exhaust manifold tape In-Reply-To: <186285452.8607301242519816214.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <> 80ish miles from me, Bob!! <<'DEI' brand.>> Dale Earnhardt Inc. ????? LOL!! Anon From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat May 16 19:59:32 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 21:59:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 Message-ID: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> Hello all, Was just checking out a Hundred on Ebay and found that it's not what it would seem at first. This car has the chassis number of an approx. Nov. '55 BN2, but the body number tag is from a March '55 BN1. Checking further, there is a good under frame shot clearly showing the torched out lines of the original BN1 gearbox mounting and a cobbled mount for the 4 speed box's stay rod. Looking back at the number tags more closely, I believe the batch/body tag to be original and undisturbed, while the obviously replaced chassis number tag has the tell tale evidence of different replacement screws. Hmmmm, I wonder what her BN1 number really is. Of course it could be checked with BMIHT when needed. This Hundred Registry data certainly is useful to identify things like this. Rich Chrysler From linwoodrose at mac.com Sat May 16 23:44:25 2009 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 01:44:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs Message-ID: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> I am normally driving my car in Virginia, but I am now in the mountains of Colorado. I anticipate some negative impact on engine performance tomorrow. How should the carbs be adjusted to compensate for the elevation - 7,200 ft? Lin 1960 The Bloody Beast 1959 bugeye From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 17 01:08:38 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:08:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs In-Reply-To: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> References: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> Message-ID: You have to tune the carbs a little richer. Probably a half to full turn once at altitude. Alan On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Linwood H Rose wrote: > I am normally driving my car in Virginia, but I am now in the mountains of > Colorado. I anticipate some negative impact on engine performance tomorrow. > How should the carbs be adjusted to compensate for the elevation - 7,200 ft? > > Lin > 1960 The Bloody Beast > 1959 bugeye > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 17 02:24:06 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:24:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Started pinion meshed to ring gear In-Reply-To: <8437086A1BE648FF91458F4F4DE898DF@Soderling> References: <8437086A1BE648FF91458F4F4DE898DF@Soderling> Message-ID: <4A0FC9A6.8050704@chello.nl> No, you have to pull the starter to investigate what is the cause of the fault. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Soderling schreef: > Help needed: > > Cully Anderson and I were touring the Napa wine country this morning and when > he started his 100 six after a stop. It started but produced a loud grinding > noise with the engine running. He shut it off immediately. He restarted it > several times and same sound. The sound seemed to come from the starter area > so I think the starter pinion teeth are stuck in the flywheel ring gear teeth. > > Tried banging on the starter to dislodge but this did not brake it loose. > Also tried coasting the car and dropping the clutch to brake it loose - did > not work. Had the car hauled to his house. > > Are there any tricks to dislodging the starter and flywheel gears short of > pulling off the starter? Thanks for the help. > > Vrooom vrooom, > John > Erika the Red > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.32/2117 - Release Date: 05/15/09 17:55:00 From gbrierton at hotmail.com Sun May 17 05:30:35 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 07:30:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NNE travel advice Message-ID: Rich, I could not agree with you more! and the Silver Bullet agrees with you!! and our annual mileage (almost completely trouble-free) validates it all!!! See some of you in Louisville... and in Kingston... and in Bonneville...and in Eagle Ridge... and wherever. To borrow a comment from Chuck Anderson, "My extensive preparation for a long drive in my Healey starts and stops with removing the car cover." (Regular maintenance by Hendrix Wire Wheels.) Gary Brierton From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 06:28:23 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:28:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry benefits, (was) RE: Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <000601c9d6ea$f8cdfbb0$ea69f310$@rr.com> Rich, recently someone submitted the details of their BJ8 to the registry and I recognized that the body number did not match the VIN. However, I also had information on another BJ8 whose body number did not match the VIN, but the body tag DID belong to the first car. Subsequent investigation determined that both cars had spent some time in the same repair shop (now defunct) in the 1990s. The registry made it possible for the first car to get back its original body number plate. Things like that can only happen if there is a central location for the details of as many cars as possible to act as a clearinghouse. Because the I.D. plates were only installed with screws, there has been ample opportunity for many cars to lose their true identities, and there are a LOT of BJ8s out there in that boat. The BJ8 registry has been able to correct the misidentifications in 20 or so cases over the last 10 years. By the way, if anyone out there owns HBJ8L/38868, I have your original body number plate, which was the one installed on the first car. How do I know this? Because as BJ8 registrar I have access to the BMIHT archives to match the body and chassis numbers. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:00 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 Hello all, Was just checking out a Hundred on Ebay and found that it's not what it would seem at first. This car has the chassis number of an approx. Nov. '55 BN2, but the body number tag is from a March '55 BN1. Checking further, there is a good under frame shot clearly showing the torched out lines of the original BN1 gearbox mounting and a cobbled mount for the 4 speed box's stay rod. Looking back at the number tags more closely, I believe the batch/body tag to be original and undisturbed, while the obviously replaced chassis number tag has the tell tale evidence of different replacement screws. Hmmmm, I wonder what her BN1 number really is. Of course it could be checked with BMIHT when needed. This Hundred Registry data certainly is useful to identify things like this. Rich Chrysler From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 06:45:45 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:45:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs In-Reply-To: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> References: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> Message-ID: <000c01c9d6ed$658f4090$30adc1b0$@rr.com> Lin, I normally motor around in my Healey at sea-level eastern North Carolina. Twice now I have driven my BJ8 in Colorado and have not made any carb adjustments at all. The only obvious effect I have noticed was at the top of Pike's Peak (14,000 ft) and last summer at the summit of Wolf Creek Pass (10,000 feet). The carbs will become richer with altitude because the air pressure is less and the air is less dense but the fuel flow stays the same. If you want to compensate, you should lean them out. But I wouldn't bother unless you are going to stay at the very high altitudes. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Linwood H Rose Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 1:44 AM To: healeylist Cc: Michael Oritt; Michael Salter Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs I am normally driving my car in Virginia, but I am now in the mountains of Colorado. I anticipate some negative impact on engine performance tomorrow. How should the carbs be adjusted to compensate for the elevation - 7,200 ft? Lin 1960 The Bloody Beast 1959 bugeye From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun May 17 07:05:52 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:05:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Registry In-Reply-To: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> Since there have been a few emails mentioning registries, does anyone know if the 3000 BT7 registry is still maintained by Bill at either mcroof at ameritech.net or mnaretta at aol.com I sent him the information on my car in early May and have not heard back from him. Thanks. Ron From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 07:17:19 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 09:17:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry In-Reply-To: <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> Message-ID: <001301c9d6f1$cef49e50$6cdddaf0$@rr.com> Ron, I have sent him several e-mails and have never received any response, either. Although Bill is still listed as the BT7 Mark I registrar at the AHCA website, I do not know if he is active. He may not be checking his e-mail frequently, or perhaps he is in the same boat I am at times. The volume of e-mail communication concerning the BJ8 registry is frequently so heavy that it's hard to keep up with, although an acknowledgement of contributions on a timely basis is certainly in order. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Ray Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:06 AM To: 'Rich C'; 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Registry Since there have been a few emails mentioning registries, does anyone know if the 3000 BT7 registry is still maintained by Bill at either mcroof at ameritech.net or mnaretta at aol.com I sent him the information on my car in early May and have not heard back from him. Thanks. Ron From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 17 07:37:12 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 09:37:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> Message-ID: Hi Ron, As far as I know, Bill Naretta is still the BN7/BT7 Registrar. I must echo Steve Byers' comments about an active Registry being time consuming. I am finding the Hundred Registry keeps me rather busy at times (and I love it) though the level of activity is nothing like Steve's BJ8 activity, likely due to the comparative numbers produced and the fact that the Hundreds are a decade older. I can see where a Registrar who cannot keep up with the contributing entries on a daily basis could soon get buried in them and take a while to respond. I receive on the average probably 4 or 5 new numbers per week from many various sources, and wherever possible I try to reply, often asking for further information to complete the data. I always try to thank them for their efforts of contributing and can usually add a bit of information they may not be aware of regarding their car, such as the various details that should be on the car for their given build date, etc. This personal contact very often pays off with the contributor sending even more information or coaxing their friends and acquaintances to do the same. Rich Chrysler AHCA Hundred Registrar ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Ray" To: "'Rich C'" ; "'Healeys'" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:05 AM Subject: Registry > Since there have been a few emails mentioning registries, does anyone know > if the 3000 BT7 registry is still maintained by Bill at either > mcroof at ameritech.net or mnaretta at aol.com > > I sent him the information on my car in early May and have not heard back > from him. > > Thanks. > Ron From CAWS52803 at aol.com Sun May 17 07:51:35 2009 From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 09:51:35 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Registry Message-ID: The 100/Six Registry is alive and strong here in Western North Carolina. When I took on this responsibility over 25 years ago, I thought I would be finished by now. They still keep coming in and into the Registry. Rudy Streng **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 17 07:52:58 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:52:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs In-Reply-To: <70FD5949-C1F0-4FD0-8336-7F19B3961651@mac.com> Message-ID: <573661349.8676921242568378022.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Lin, Air density--the number of molecules per (any) cubic area--becomes less with altitude, temperature and humidity, and also varies with barometric pressure (essentially an altitude change at the same spot). The nominal elevation adjusted for these parameters is known in aviation as "density altitude" and is essentially the altitude an aircraft "thinks" it is flying at. At sea level, on a hot, humid day the density altitude could be equivalent to a couple thousand feet (a "standard" day is 15degC/59degF and 760mm/29.92 inches of mercury in a column barometer). Because of this you will lose power no matter what and the engine will run a bit richer (SU carburettors compensate for this somewhat because the less dense air will not raise the pistons and jet needles as high for the same throttle opening). I live at sea level; when I drive above 3,000 feet--and expect to stay there awhile--I'll open the throttles (slow-run valve on HD carbs) to get the idle back up to 700-800rpm and lean a bit. Make changes you can remember; e.g. "raised jets 4 flats to lean" and "opened throttles one-half turn." Then, you can reset the carbs when you descend (HD carbs make this really easy, I'm less familiar with other SU models). Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose" To: "healeylist" Cc: "Michael Oritt" , "Michael Salter" Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:44:25 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs I am normally driving my car in Virginia, but I am now in the mountains of Colorado. I anticipate some negative impact on engine performance tomorrow. How should the carbs be adjusted to compensate for the elevation - 7,200 ft? Lin 1960 The Bloody Beast 1959 bugeye _______________________________________________ From quenty at ntelos.net Sun May 17 08:05:15 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:05:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry Message-ID: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> Hello All. It would be interesting to know how many of which cars are in each registry, as opposed to how many were Built. Just Curious. Dave and Daisy From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 17 08:22:50 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:22:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry References: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <55486DFCB67D416F979906800AFC52B1@ophrdc.org> Dave, et al, Speaking for the Hundred Registry, we currently have at least some records of something over 1800 cars. Keep in mind that roughly 100 of these are listed as having positively been scrapped and no longer exist. Also keep in mind that the original production numbers are 10,030 BN1's (not counting the 19 preproduction cars, which the Registry lists or the 50 100/S's which we do not list) and 4604 BN2's (including the 640 or so M's). That gives us a total of about 14,634 cars, so we currently have listings on over 12% of the original production. Do we have yours? Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Schweninger" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:05 AM Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry > Hello All. > It would be interesting to know how many of which cars are in each > registry, as opposed to how many were Built. > Just Curious. > > Dave and Daisy From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun May 17 08:29:13 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 07:29:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> seems like i have the bug around 50 mph what to do without taking out the motor to put brackets around tranny tunnel .did this happen when the cars were new all help appreciated From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 17 08:33:56 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:33:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry References: <778527342.8678821242569153312.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Bob, The Hundred handbrake handle seemed to have been bright chrome just on the "hand" part, plus the release button, and a plain dull zinc looking finish from there back to the pivot point. I do not believe it was ever painted. I checked the Hundred Registry records and have no record of your name there. In all entries we need the following: Car chassis number, batch and body number, engine number, colours, both exterior and interior, originally and currently, date built, date dispatched, destination if possible, key number, and any other interesting information about the car, past owner information, etc. Then of course we need the current owner's name, full address, phone and email. regards, Rich Chrysler (North American) Hundred Registrar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Rich C Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:05 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Registry Hi Rich, Question: should a BN2's e-brake handle be completely chromed? Ours looks like it might have been painted below the 'hand' part. I don't know if we ever sent our BN2/100M cars details to you; what data are you looking for (VIN, etc.)? Thanks, Bob From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 17 08:49:35 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:49:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry In-Reply-To: <55486DFCB67D416F979906800AFC52B1@ophrdc.org> References: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> <55486DFCB67D416F979906800AFC52B1@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <018201c9d6fe$b2c32320$18496960$@net> I have a link to most, if not all, of the registrars on the Technical page of my site. It is rather easy for me to list stats on the box next to the respective links from the registrars for each model such as number built, number registered, number on the road, number known to have been scrapped. All that would be needed is for the registrars to give me the numbers and periodically (every month or so or whenever) update the numbers. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:23 AM To: David Schweninger; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Registry Dave, et al, Speaking for the Hundred Registry, we currently have at least some records of something over 1800 cars. Keep in mind that roughly 100 of these are listed as having positively been scrapped and no longer exist. Also keep in mind that the original production numbers are 10,030 BN1's (not counting the 19 preproduction cars, which the Registry lists or the 50 100/S's which we do not list) and 4604 BN2's (including the 640 or so M's). That gives us a total of about 14,634 cars, so we currently have listings on over 12% of the original production. Do we have yours? Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Schweninger" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:05 AM Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry > Hello All. > It would be interesting to know how many of which cars are in each > registry, as opposed to how many were Built. > Just Curious. > > Dave and Daisy From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun May 17 09:34:03 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 07:34:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Elevation_effects_on_SU_carbs_-_suggesti?= =?iso-8859-1?q?on?= Message-ID: <20090517153403.27553.qmail@hoster902.com> Bob Spidell wrote: "Make changes you can remember; e.g. "raised jets 4 flats to lean" and "opened throttles one-half turn." " Lin, The ace tuners at APT... http://www.aptfast.com/index.htm ...suggest this method: Remove the domes and, using a dial caliper, measure the jet depression in both carbs between the bridge and how far down the jet sits. Equalize the amount; for instance if it's .055" in one and .045" in the other, equalize at .050". Make a note of this amount. The difference between the two may turn out to be a _lot_ more than .010". In Colorado if you lean it slightly by raising the jets to say. 045" then you can reset them to exactly .050" when you get back to VA. I find this method very easy to do using my $14 dial caliper from Harbor Freight. God bless globalization! -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From dwflagg at juno.com Sun May 17 09:43:18 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 11:43:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Elevation_effects_on_SU_carbs_-_suggesti?= =?iso-8859-1?q?on?= Message-ID: <20090517.114318.524.11.dwflagg@juno.com> Tell that to all the people flipin burgers and doing other menial service work because NAFTA and other "forward looking" government policies have gutted our industry. That $14 dollar caliper came at a very large cost!! Oh, let's not forget WalMart. They can wave the American flag, but it is all about the bottom line, no matter what the cost. "I find this method very easy to do using my $14 dial caliper from Harbor Freight. God bless globalization!" > -- > Steve Gerow > Pasadena, CA > BN6 ____________________________________________________________ Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTI97vT3sm6gQYjbjFuAoWwLDuRteogvpBRuky6GfdELvIE2Nq1QxK/ From quenty at ntelos.net Sun May 17 09:51:49 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 11:51:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Registry References: <4755533C-F6CA-47DA-BED7-71F7AD00556E@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <34F51084-5F00-4C3F-BB57-FC4B86D0EA24@ntelos.net> Sorry I forgot to add the list. Begin forwarded message: From: David Schweninger Date: May 17, 2009 11:46:12 AM EDT To: "Rich C" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Registry Rich, I registered Daisy-- HBN7L18440 with Bill Bolton in 1992. His first list had about 100 serial numbers, but only 39 had any other info. The latest list, that I have (2006), shows about 160 serial numbers. Almost all have the BMHT Info. 4 of them are listed as "rally cars" and "dead". Thanks for responding, Dave On May 17, 2009, at 10:22 AM, Rich C wrote: Dave, et al, Speaking for the Hundred Registry, we currently have at least some records of something over 1800 cars. Keep in mind that roughly 100 of these are listed as having positively been scrapped and no longer exist. Also keep in mind that the original production numbers are 10,030 BN1's (not counting the 19 preproduction cars, which the Registry lists or the 50 100/S's which we do not list) and 4604 BN2's (including the 640 or so M's). That gives us a total of about 14,634 cars, so we currently have listings on over 12% of the original production. Do we have yours? Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Schweninger" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:05 AM Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry > Hello All. > It would be interesting to know how many of which cars are in each > registry, as opposed to how many were Built. > Just Curious. > > Dave and Daisy From medlabinc at msn.com Sun May 17 09:59:38 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:59:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: schuttle shake Message-ID: One suggestion would be to check into some of the shake source issues first. DM /Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: john doe To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 7:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake seems like i have the bug around 50 mph what to do without taking out the motor to put brackets around tranny tunnel .did this happen when the cars were new all help appreciated _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 10:01:33 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 12:01:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry In-Reply-To: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> References: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <001401c9d708$c00ff030$402fd090$@rr.com> As of today, the BJ8 registry has a record of 7,193 cars worldwide (40.6% of a total production of 17,712). This does not mean that there are that many cars still surviving or that there is a record of where all 7,193 of them are today. One goal of the BJ8 registry is to identify the current status of every one of the cars that were manufactured -- i.e., surviving or not. Of the 7,193 cars, 52 are definitely known to have been scrapped/destroyed/parted out, etc. Those are much harder to identify now than those that do survive. If there is any information available at all on a car that can be identified to its VIN, I will enter it into the registry with that information. For example, if I determine that engine A is in car B but is not original to it, I can find out which car did originally own engine A and I will enter it into the registry with all of its associated BMIHT information. The car may turn up later, and I can then tell the owner where his original engine is and also all of the BMIHT info, including some items that are not normally included on the certificates. I will enter the location and current owner as unknown until that can be determined. The registry currently shows 1007 cars with location UNKNOWN. For most of those, there is a record of at least one owner in the past, but for some there is no ownership information at all (yet). Obviously, collecting and maintaining all of this information is time consuming, and those of us who are involved in it would not do it if it were not useful to do, or fun. It is fun for me, but primarily I enjoy making the registry a useful resource and benefit to the Healey hobby in general, and to BJ8 owners in particular. I enjoy being able to use actual registry data and statistics to respond to specific questions on this list. However, the registrars cannot personally account for all cars and their details that are out there. We have to rely on individual owners to feed the information to us. It is somewhat frustrating to know that there continue to be a few owners even on this list who do not feel any need to help out the effort, or curiosity enough to ask what benefit the registry has for anyone. Fortunately, most do and are very forthcoming with the information desired. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:05 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry Hello All. It would be interesting to know how many of which cars are in each registry, as opposed to how many were Built. Just Curious. Dave and Daisy From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 17 10:26:38 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:26:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs - suggestion In-Reply-To: <20090517153403.27553.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <457871500.8705231242577598373.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "Equalize the amount; for instance if it's .055" in one and .045" in the other, equalize at .050"." Immaterial and possibly harmful if the fuel levels differ ... start by making sure the float levels in both carbs are correct (but that's carb tuning, not altitude compensation--I was assuming properly tuned and balanced carbs to begin with). Also, make sure the needles are installed correctly (they differ--carb tuning again). How would you measure the fuel levels with a dial caliper (half-;) bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve B. Gerow" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: linwoodrose at mac.com Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 8:34:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Elevation effects on SU carbs - suggestion Bob Spidell wrote: "Make changes you can remember; e.g. "raised jets 4 flats to lean" and "opened throttles one-half turn." " Lin, The ace tuners at APT... http://www.aptfast.com/index.htm ...suggest this method: Remove the domes and, using a dial caliper, measure the jet depression in both carbs between the bridge and how far down the jet sits. Equalize the amount; for instance if it's .055" in one and .045" in the other, equalize at .050". Make a note of this amount. The difference between the two may turn out to be a _lot_ more than .010". In Colorado if you lean it slightly by raising the jets to say. 045" then you can reset them to exactly .050" when you get back to VA. I find this method very easy to do using my $14 dial caliper from Harbor Freight. God bless globalization! -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 _______________________________________________ From healey100m at gmail.com Sun May 17 10:32:49 2009 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 12:32:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: I looked at this car on ebay and was really disappointed in the retouched photo covering up how bad the passenger side door actually was. If you look at the door from the rear side view, and zoom in, you can see the poor fit and corrosion. But look at the direct passenger side view, zoom in and you can see a really amateur photo retouch to make the door look much better. Makes you wonder what else is being covered up besides the numbers Rich mentioned. Makes me wonder about the seller also. Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 9:59 PM, Rich C wrote: > Hello all, > > Was just checking out a Hundred on Ebay and found that it's not what it > would > seem at first. This car has the chassis number of an approx. Nov. '55 BN2, > but > the body number tag is from a March '55 BN1. > Checking further, there is a good under frame shot clearly showing the > torched > out lines of the original BN1 gearbox mounting and a cobbled mount for the > 4 > speed box's stay rod. Looking back at the number tags more closely, I > believe > the batch/body tag to be original and undisturbed, while the obviously > replaced chassis number tag has the tell tale evidence of different > replacement screws. Hmmmm, I wonder what her BN1 number really is. Of > course > it could be checked with BMIHT when needed. > > This Hundred Registry data certainly is useful to identify things like > this. > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '60 BN7 MKI (For Sale) '62 BN& MKII '65 BJ8 '53 MG TD From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 10:36:23 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 12:36:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Registry In-Reply-To: <018201c9d6fe$b2c32320$18496960$@net> References: <95E56F03-34EB-4BFE-99D1-495E62568727@ntelos.net> <55486DFCB67D416F979906800AFC52B1@ophrdc.org> <018201c9d6fe$b2c32320$18496960$@net> Message-ID: <001701c9d70d$9dd88810$d9899830$@rr.com> John, one thing the BJ8 registry does NOT try to do is to keep up with number of cars "on the road" assuming that that would exclude those up on blocks, undergoing restoration, under repair, in storage awaiting time and money, etc. that kind of status for an individual car can change too frequently to keep up with and would require the owner to report periodic status to the registry. Not a realistic expectation, and would the result be significant anyway? However, I would be happy to post the BJ8 statistics on your site. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:50 AM To: 'Rich C'; 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Registry I have a link to most, if not all, of the registrars on the Technical page of my site. It is rather easy for me to list stats on the box next to the respective links from the registrars for each model such as number built, number registered, number on the road, number known to have been scrapped. All that would be needed is for the registrars to give me the numbers and periodically (every month or so or whenever) update the numbers. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sun May 17 11:12:23 2009 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 17:12:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1615692872.8236871242580343098.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Stupid thing about it is this isB BMC ClassicsB in Florida that is selling the car.B Makes you wonder... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Hicks" To: "Rich C" Cc: Kaye at fourintune.com, "Healeys" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 12:32:49 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 I looked at this car on ebay and was really disappointed in the retouched photo covering up how bad the passenger side door actually was. If you look at the door from the rear side view, and zoom in, you can see the poor fit and corrosion. But look at the direct passenger side view, zoom in and you can see a really amateur photo retouch to make the door look much better. Makes you wonder what else is being covered up besides the numbers Rich mentioned. Makes me wonder about the seller also. Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 9:59 PM, Rich C wrote: > Hello all, > > Was just checking out a Hundred on Ebay and found that it's not what it > would > seem at first. This car has the chassis number of an approx. Nov. '55 BN2, > but > the body number tag is from a March '55 BN1. > Checking further, there is a good under frame shot clearly showing the > torched > out lines of the original BN1 gearbox mounting and a cobbled mount for the > 4 > speed box's stay rod. Looking back at the number tags more closely, I > believe > the batch/body tag to be original and undisturbed, while the obviously > replaced chassis number tag has the tell tale evidence of different > replacement screws. Hmmmm, I wonder what her BN1 number really is. Of > course > it could be checked with BMIHT when needed. > > This Hundred Registry data certainly is useful to identify things like > this. > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '60 BN7 MKI (For Sale) '62 BN& MKII '65 BJ8 '53 MG TD Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sun May 17 11:38:42 2009 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:38:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] photo Message-ID: <5caeedb50905171038x49676628td62fee971545afc3@mail.gmail.com> i have searched my files but cannot find what i am looking for. needed for a friend. front of a BN2 with no bumpers a two driving lights please. TIA ron From shop at justbrits.com Sun May 17 12:57:39 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:57:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Has anybody gone to the Seller's web site?? http://www.dreamsonwheels.com/index.php?page=1955-austin-heley-bn2 Check out the '66 BJ-8 'under resto' with but it on the cheap for $79K?!?!?!?!? IMHO, ain't 'pretty'. Ed From dwflagg at juno.com Sun May 17 13:22:42 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:22:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Ignition Switch Message-ID: <20090517.152243.3308.0.dwflagg@juno.com> Would anyone have, or know where I can get a NOS or excellent Lucas 31899 ignition switch with the screw terminals that would be dated mid '56? Aside from the date, if not available, any late 50's date would work. TIA. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Start Email Marketing - fast, affordable, and measurable. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEFeRNpNMDOWdjZCyor45nF28kBuRq7EJlf4mCWhAs1eOccJ5g0b2/ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 13:38:52 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:38:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004901c9d727$1c203920$5460ab60$@rr.com> I haven't bought a car from BMC Classics, but I have visited their shop in New Smyrna Beach, FL once. I had never met them before, but after I explained my involvement in the BJ8 registry Harold and Eva Brandner gave me the run of their shop, unsupervised, to collect numbers off of all of the BJ8s there. Harold even removed the body number plate from one car and gave it to me when I told them it didn't belong to that car. Eventually, I returned the plate to the correct owner in The Netherlands. Eva very helpfully volunteered to make copies of the BMIHT certificates for each car (which they always obtain) and gave them to me before I left. She has since sent me more certificates and frequently provides information on the cars that come through their shop. As to the Hundred being offered on eBay, I'm not sure that the photographs show that they have been re-touched in an effort to mislead. It rather appears to me that someone has just attempted some very amateurish body repairs to the door and passenger's side. I would guess that BMC Classics bought the car like that. This is not an attempt to defend BMC Classics so much as it is to say that I have come across quite a few eBay and other sellers/repairers/restorers who are not interested in anyone knowing the details or history of the cars they handle. That always makes me suspicious of what they are willing to cover up. The Brandners are not like that, and that would give me a much better feeling about considering buying a car from them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's Shop Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 2:58 PM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 Has anybody gone to the Seller's web site?? http://www.dreamsonwheels.com/index.php?page=1955-austin-heley-bn2 Check out the '66 BJ-8 'under resto' with but it on the cheap for $79K?!?!?!?!? IMHO, ain't 'pretty'. Ed _______________________________________________ From dwflagg at juno.com Sun May 17 13:44:19 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:44:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AM Radio Message-ID: <20090517.154420.3308.1.dwflagg@juno.com> I have an Audiovox, solid state, push button AM radio available. It has been recently overhauled electrically. It is switchable between 6v and 12v, and polarity. I believe the bezel will fit the standard BJ8 opening. If interested, please contact me off the list. Doug _______________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________ Criminal Lawyers - Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOVoMrLPJr46DpYgOv8nkuwykJr75zjlnAq3VKHLhBsBpJAoLAWe0/ From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun May 17 13:53:46 2009 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:53:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: <004901c9d727$1c203920$5460ab60$@rr.com> References: <004901c9d727$1c203920$5460ab60$@rr.com> Message-ID: Steve, look at the pictures (especially the sellers web site) and zoom in on the photos. Some still show the car with the bad door. Some are an absolute re-touch job. I'm in the business and these are poorly retouched photos. Sorry, but the car can not have the door both ways. Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com On May 17, 2009, at 3:38 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > It rather > appears to me that someone has just attempted some very amateurish > body > repairs to the door and passenger's side. I would guess that BMC > Classics > bought the car like that. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 17 14:14:52 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:14:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello "John Doe", Try checking out the list archives. One of the first things to do without touching anything else would be balancing the rear brake drums. We spoke about this only days ago. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake > seems like i have the bug around 50 mph what to do without taking out the > motor to put brackets around tranny tunnel .did this happen when the cars > were new all help appreciated From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 17 14:17:19 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:17:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] photo References: <5caeedb50905171038x49676628td62fee971545afc3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Check out Reid Trummel's BN2M's photo which is often seen on the Healey Forum. His Healey Blue/OEW M is set up like that. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: "F. Ronald Rader" To: "Healey List" Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 1:38 PM Subject: [Healeys] photo >i have searched my files but cannot find what i am looking for. needed > for a friend. > front of a BN2 with no bumpers a two driving lights please. > TIA > ron From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun May 17 14:26:15 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:26:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: References: <004901c9d727$1c203920$5460ab60$@rr.com> Message-ID: Go to the seller's website (Ed's link) You can get a much better look at the cancer on the door. On the side shot, the edge of the rust hole is clearly visible, and it appears that the area was covered up at some point in the past with a rattle can. I would also note that the bad door is mentioned on the eBay auction. I vote for no photohop, just a bad picture. Rick On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 12:53 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Steve, look at the pictures (especially the sellers web site) and zoom in > on the photos. Some still show the car with the bad door. > > Some are an absolute re-touch job. I'm in the business and these are poorly > retouched photos. > > Sorry, but the car can not have the door both ways. > > Randy From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 17 14:57:54 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:57:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 In-Reply-To: <8E5C9AD2-8FFB-4B1F-8AA4-15BC2C3C458D@gmail.com> References: <004901c9d727$1c203920$5460ab60$@rr.com> <8E5C9AD2-8FFB-4B1F-8AA4-15BC2C3C458D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <005d01c9d732$2661f3a0$7325dae0$@rr.com> Randy, as I said I am not defending BMC Classics or whether the photos were retouched or not. I'm just saying that based on how they have interacted with me over the years, they have shown me they have nothing to hide or try to get away with. BMC Classics is a dealer as well as a restorer, and frequently just buys a car and sells it on without doing any work to it as apparently they are doing here. I personally don't see what the point would be in showing the damage to the door in one photo, and then trying to cover it up by retouching in another. On the other hand, I can easily see the same damage in both photos, although the difference in lighting (in my opinion) is providing slightly different views. I'm not in the business, so I'm just stating my opinion as I see it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Randy Hicks [mailto:Healey100M at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:52 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hundred on Ebay #130306970927 Steve, look at the pictures (especially the sellers web site) and zoom in on the photos. Some still show the car with the bad door. Some are an absolute re-touch job. I'm in the business and these are poorly retouched photos. Sorry, but the car can not have the door both ways. Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun May 17 15:08:58 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:08:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Sintered Bronze Bushes (& spigot bushes) Message-ID: FYI, FWIW & I DO sell pilot bushes!!!! With a sintered bronze bushing there is a 10-second shortcut to the overnight soak. Place the bushing on your thumb, open end up. Fill with oil to the top. Put your other thumb on top to seal both ends, and squeeze firmly. In a matter of seconds you will see oil beads on the outside like it was sweating, indicating full saturation of the bronze matrix. Author: Barney Gaylord, MGAGURU Ed From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun May 17 16:06:41 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 18:06:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry In-Reply-To: <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> References: <0F037A1542EA49E7A8D9ED9F1EB217F4@ophrdc.org> <001201c9d6f0$35bb4410$a131cc30$@net> Message-ID: <4A108A71.6040803@earthlink.net> Ron, Bill Naretta was at Spring Thing this weekend in Kentucky. You might give him a call on the phone. Bill handles the 3000 MkI (BT7 and BN7) registry. Bill Bolton handles the Mk II BT7 and BN7 tri-carb registry. Bob Ron Ray wrote: > Since there have been a few emails mentioning registries, does anyone know > if the 3000 BT7 registry is still maintained by Bill at either > mcroof at ameritech.net or mnaretta at aol.com > > I sent him the information on my car in early May and have not heard back > from him. > > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 17 16:34:11 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 06:34:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John - Your front wheels are bouncing at 50 mph probably because your front shocks are bad, causing the shake you describe. Replace your front shocks. Others say out of balance brake drums can cause this too. What you describe isn't the healey "Scuttle shake." Healey scuttle shake is more of a rats nest of noise when you hit a pot hole... On 5/17/09, john doe wrote: > seems like i have the bug around 50 mph what to do without taking out the > motor to put brackets around tranny tunnel .did this happen when the cars > were new all help appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun May 17 20:15:02 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 19:15:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] photo In-Reply-To: References: <5caeedb50905171038x49676628td62fee971545afc3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <0DD97261-AF3A-47A3-9554-CD2FBA5537E4@cox.net> Here's a shot of that car in San Diego: http://ewilkins.com/wilko/trummel_100.jpg Wilko On May 17, 2009, at 1:17 PM, Rich C wrote: > Check out Reid Trummel's BN2M's photo which is often seen on the > Healey Forum. His Healey Blue/OEW M is set up like that. > > Rich > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "F. Ronald Rader" > > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 1:38 PM > Subject: [Healeys] photo > > >> i have searched my files but cannot find what i am looking for. >> needed >> for a friend. >> front of a BN2 with no bumpers a two driving lights please. >> TIA >> ron > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun May 17 22:00:32 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 04:00:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BSF 5/16 x 22 Message-ID: Hello Listmates, I am in need of one 5/16" x 22 British Standard Fine (BSF) nut. Can anyone help me? Richard Mayor BN7-466 Portland, Oregon _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_WhatsNew1_052009 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 17 22:08:21 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:08:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Funny looking BJ8 Message-ID: Is it just me or does this BJ8 look like she's riding just a little high??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230343344050&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem= Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 17 22:11:38 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:11:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BSF 5/16 x 22 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard - You can order direct, online, from Namrick in the UK. They'll post it, shipping with them is cheap. They usually post the same day as your order - you might have it by the end of the week. http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=4 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 12:00 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Hello Listmates, I am in need of one 5/16" x 22 British Standard Fine (BSF) > nut. Can anyone help me? > > Richard Mayor > BN7-466 > Portland, Oregon From Editorgary at aol.com Sun May 17 22:27:18 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 00:27:18 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Hand brake plating Message-ID: In a message dated 5/17/09 7:39:40 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > The Hundred handbrake handle seemed to have been bright chrome just on the > "hand" part, plus the release button, and a plain dull zinc looking finish > from there back to the pivot point. I do not believe it was ever painted. > I've checked with several contributors to the Austin-Healey Concours Registry restoration guidelines, and the consensus is that the entire handle was chromed; however, only the top part where the hand rests, plus the button, were polished (remember that chroming consists of both plating and polishing to get to the desired shiny finish). All the other parts that go together to form the handbrake system were zinc-plated. Gary Anderson ************** A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322941x1201367178/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072& hmpgID=115&bcd=Mayfooter51809NO115) From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 17 22:46:42 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 21:46:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Funny looking BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A10E832.8040200@comcast.net> That's the extremely rare Off-Road Healey. bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > Is it just me or does this BJ8 look like she's riding just a little high??? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230343344050&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem= > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon May 18 00:11:54 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 02:11:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Just checking to make sure that you are kidding here Alan. My understanding the shake phenomenon is just that, a Shake. My car isn't on the road yet so I am assuming that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph if the anti scuttle operations are not carried out. It is interesting however that I have never experienced this shake with other LBC that I have had out on the highway. Wonder why the Healey drums seem to be this way. Anyone? MARK > What you describe isn't the healey "Scuttle shake." Healey scuttle > shake is more of a rats nest of noise when you hit a pot hole... > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon May 18 00:23:07 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 02:23:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rivet Refresher Message-ID: <001701c9d781$1cc20480$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I am in the process of reinstalling my front shroud but cannot remember if rivets were used in this application. Please inform. It's the Cockpit lip of the shroud, just above the dashboard. # 8 flathead screws with nuts seem to work but it doesn't seem right to me for some reason. Is this a Pop rivet area? Also how necessary is the use of an adhesive under the front shroud. Don't the mega zillion fasteners hold it quietly in place? Mark Thanks, Mark From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Mon May 18 03:23:44 2009 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:23:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sintered Bronze Bushes (& spigot bushes) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4e23c7250905180223q6b774892ua51fe1f8a7099617@mail.gmail.com> Sorry to say, Ed, but in this instance Barney doesn't know what he's talking about. My company sold Oilite self-lubricating bearings and solid bars for over 40 years and believe me: there is only one way to re-lubricate these kind of porous bearings. Drop the bearing(s) in a container with engine oil, heat the container to approx 210 F or 100 C till no more air bubbles are expelled, take the heat source away and let the bearing(s) cool down while still in the oil. That is the way the bearings are filled in the factory, and that is the only proper way to refill. Over 90 % of the holes or pores in the sintered bearings are so small that the pressure of your thumb is not sufficient to get the pores filled with oil. What Barney sees coming out is oil locked in the largest pores, but his method is absolutely insufficient to fill the bearing properly. Kind regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2009/5/17 Ed's Shop > FYI, FWIW & I DO sell pilot bushes!!!! > > > With a sintered bronze bushing there is a 10-second > shortcut > to the overnight soak. Place the bushing on your thumb, > open > end up. Fill with oil to the top. Put your other thumb > on top > to seal both ends, and squeeze firmly. In a matter of > seconds > you will see oil beads on the outside like it was > sweating, > indicating full saturation of the bronze matrix. > > Author: Barney Gaylord, MGAGURU > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tomleavy at comcast.net Mon May 18 05:11:04 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:11:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rivet Refresher Message-ID: <1087321466.9632921242645064201.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi Mark- I just helped a friend last week. Inside the cockpit, rivets are used across the lip of the dash top.B There is also one on either side of the shroud where the wing bolts run thru the sides of the scuttle. Regarding what to use under the shroud, think of it as a sealant, not adhesive, or the next owner who tries to remove the shroud will destroy it in the process. I use a 3m product that resembles a thick tar, kind f a clay consistency. It is packaged in strips, and I just double them up and run them just behind the front lip of the bonnet opening. Anyone on the list have pics that they could forward here?B Regards, Tom` From tomleavy at comcast.net Mon May 18 06:05:02 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:05:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy Message-ID: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Yes, cheap. I'm considering buying one of the $25 all weather car covers off of the 'Bay. I just need the outdoor protection in the event of rain at the Conclave. I know some will say just buy a pricey one, but the budget is strained already. Has anyone purchased one of these? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 18 06:06:56 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:06:56 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy In-Reply-To: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Tom - You can use them short term, but whatever you do do not store a car long term under one of these, good way to trap moisture and cause rust! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 8:05 PM, wrote: > Yes, cheap. I'm considering buying one of the $25 all weather car covers > off of the 'Bay. I just need the outdoor protection in the event of rain at > the Conclave. I know some will say just buy a pricey one, but the budget is > strained already. Has anyone purchased one of these? Any input would be > appreciated. > > Thanks, Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon May 18 06:24:50 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:24:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy In-Reply-To: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9B56@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> I can only recommend not to buy a cheap PVC (Polyvinylchloride) car cover. When water is trapped between the cover and the paintwork, especially with old red paint, the paintwork may fade at places to an awful pink. This is a very nasty thing and the only solution then is to rub-polish it down to paint layers underneath. So to spend another $50 for a textile cover is really worth the money. Do not ask me why I know. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From tomleavy at comcast.net Mon May 18 06:32:34 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:32:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] HS6 Carb overflow tubes In-Reply-To: <1272634221.9660101242649901071.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1058327484.9660641242649954787.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi Listers- I know that this came up recently, but I'm still confused. My HS6 float bowls have the original elbow tubing with the spring, but I am unsure as to what is the original spec after that. Is there tubing that further directs the fuel overflow down and away from the intake/exhaust area? Any pics of an original configuration would be a big help and much appreciated. I'm going on a 1000 mile trip next month, and would rather not use the fire extinguisher. Thanks, Tom From wsthompson at thicko.com Mon May 18 06:51:37 2009 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 07:51:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SOS Thicko shop move May and June Message-ID: <000301c9d7b7$66b03220$34109660$@com> Hey y'all, To all that could make themselves available over the next 6 weeks, I could use all the help I can get for a shop move (whether it be individual, or organized group efforts). For sale. Frankensprite. A super solid Bugeye tub with good steel nose, full cage, set up for right hand drive. $1800 or best offer For sale. Healey Sportsboat $7000 or best offer Also, I'll have 2 Sprite sized open trailers for sale inexpensively. Please respond to me offline. Thanks. WST From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon May 18 07:00:38 2009 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:00:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy In-Reply-To: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Tom: I use on of these to protect from dust in the garage. I certainly would not use it in the rain, more hassle than it is worth, I certainly would not try to protect my car from rain, but each to his own and the rain in Canada is different, it's called s n o w!!!! Jean Caron Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada > Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:05:02 +0000 > From: tomleavy at comcast.net > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy > > Yes, cheap. I'm considering buying one of the $25 all weather car covers off of the 'Bay. I just need the outdoor protection in the event of rain at the Conclave. I know some will say just buy a pricey one, but the budget is strained already. Has anyone purchased one of these? Any input would be appreciated. > > Thanks, Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Find info faster and easier with Internet Explorer 8. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655583 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 07:19:50 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 06:19:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4A116076.60906@comcast.net> Mark, The phenomenon known as the Healey "scuttle shake" occurs consistently (usually) between 55 and 60mph when driving on smooth roads at steady speeds. It is most noticeable (or only occurs?) in the 6-cyl cars which have a longer wheelbase than the 100s. It appears to be due to a harmonic in the chassis. The whole car shakes where, for instance, an unbalanced wheel is usually felt in the steering wheel on in the seat of your pants. I've done most of the recommended procedures--including balancing the driveline and the brake drums--and still have a bit of the shake in my BJ8. This over 2 sets of wire wheels, several sets of tires and numerous truings and balancings (including 'on-the-car' balancing). Some claim good results from immaculately trued, balanced and rounded wheels; e.g. from Hendrix (unfortunately, wheels and tires don't stay trued, balanced and round indefinitely). I can't vouch for bracing the transmission tunnel and adding additional spot welds on the scuttle; I know several people on the List have tried it but I don't recall one coming back and declaring 'the shake is definitely gone.' I suspect any and all mods may help but none will eliminate it completely (and permanently). I've learned to live with it. If nothing else, the shake informs me when I'm at 55mph if I'm having speedometer problems. My car is smooth as silk above 60mph. Bob Mark LaPierre wrote: > Just checking to make sure that you are kidding here Alan. My > understanding the > shake phenomenon is just that, a Shake. My car isn't on the road yet > so I am assuming > that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph if the anti scuttle > operations are not > carried out. > > It is interesting however that I have never experienced this shake with > other LBC that I have > had out on the highway. Wonder why the Healey drums seem to be this way. > > Anyone? > > MARK > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 07:21:09 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 06:21:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rivet Refresher In-Reply-To: <001701c9d781$1cc20480$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001701c9d781$1cc20480$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4A1160C5.60902@comcast.net> The 100 we're restoring has the bonnet fastened to the cowl support with pop rivets. I presume the 6-cyl cars are assemble the same way, but can't say definitively. Bob Mark LaPierre wrote: > I am in the process of reinstalling my front shroud but cannot remember if > rivets were > used in this application. Please inform. > > It's the Cockpit lip of the shroud, just above the dashboard. # 8 flathead > screws with nuts seem to work but it doesn't seem right to me for some reason. > Is this a Pop rivet area? > > Also how necessary is the use of an adhesive under the front shroud. Don't > the mega zillion fasteners hold it quietly in place? > > Mark > > > Thanks, Mark -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 07:24:22 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 06:24:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Economy In-Reply-To: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1220823941.9649111242648302876.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A116186.7080504@comcast.net> If you have a Costco in your area--and you're a member--they usually have decent covers at about that price. I've noticed several items lately on eBay at 'buy it now' prices that are higher than you can get online from the supplier, or even at local discount stores. Bob tomleavy at comcast.net wrote: > Yes, cheap. I'm considering buying one of the $25 all weather car covers off of the 'Bay. I just need the outdoor protection in the event of rain at the Conclave. I know some will say just buy a pricey one, but the budget is strained already. Has anyone purchased one of these? Any input would be appreciated. > > Thanks, Tom -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Mon May 18 07:33:43 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 23:33:43 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4A1163B7.2060901@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Mark LaPierre wrote: > so I am assuming > that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph > > JOE SAYS, > Please,please, take a ride in a Healey as built or correctly restored > to tolerence. Scuttle shake was NOT standard. I have riden in many > that; did not scuttle shake,did not pull to the left or right under > brakes, did not have a couple of inches free play in the steering. If > a Healey has some or all of these features it is NON-Standard and > defective, or out of specification. A million dollars of shine and > new parts incorrectly put together does not constitute a RESTORED > Healey, unless the necessary parts are fitted to specification and > tolerence. No parts left on the shop floor does not constitute a > restored car. How do you think they were so successful in endurance record breaking, dirt road rallys and long distance racing,ie. 24 &12 hour duration. It concerns me the number of people who restore their Healey without seeing the need to purchase even one manual or book on these quite basic cars. Healeys were one of the first of the sports cars to have the firewall, scuttle and rear cockpit assembly welded to the chassis when MG's, Triumphs and Jags had these sections bolted. Joe From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon May 18 07:31:52 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:31:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark, I can tell you haven't driven Healeys much, if at all. They do not need to shake, and the scuttle shake is not (or need not be) a fact of life. It can be more prone to show up on the later BJ series Healeys because of the heavier windscreen assembly sitting high up on the structure. I would best describe the condition as this: you are driving along and you look at a spot on the windshield, it appears to be vibrating back and forth horizontally in front of your eyes, and you feel it in your tailbone. It can be caused by many things, among which the usual suspect causes can be worn shocks, out of balance rear drums, bad or out of balance wheels, loose steering box, etc. If all these things are tended to properly you should have a smooth running car. The later brake drums are heavy massive cast iron things that have been machined on the inside but the outer casting is pretty much how it came from the foundry. Careful balancing of these big lumps of iron can have amazing results. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Alan Seigrist" ; "john doe" ; Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 2:11 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake > Just checking to make sure that you are kidding here Alan. My > understanding the > shake phenomenon is just that, a Shake. My car isn't on the road yet so > I am assuming > that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph if the anti scuttle > operations are not > carried out. > > It is interesting however that I have never experienced this shake with > other LBC that I have > had out on the highway. Wonder why the Healey drums seem to be this way. > > Anyone? > > MARK > > >> What you describe isn't the healey "Scuttle shake." Healey scuttle >> shake is more of a rats nest of noise when you hit a pot hole... >> > >> -- >> Sent from my mobile device >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon May 18 07:35:23 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:35:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rivet Refresher References: <001701c9d781$1cc20480$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <154F6ED47E78441D84AD5FBA26254825@ophrdc.org> Mark, 3/16" aluminum pop rivets are applied across the rear edge of the front shroud as well as one each along each side of the scuttle panel and another on the forward wheel arch support plate to shroud flange. The sealant is just that, not an adhesive so much as a sealant to stop the hot air from the engine bay from blasting in under the shroud and into the under dash area. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 2:23 AM Subject: [Healeys] Rivet Refresher >I am in the process of reinstalling my front shroud but cannot remember if > rivets were > used in this application. Please inform. > > It's the Cockpit lip of the shroud, just above the dashboard. # 8 > flathead > screws with nuts seem to work but it doesn't seem right to me for some > reason. > Is this a Pop rivet area? > > Also how necessary is the use of an adhesive under the front shroud. > Don't > the mega zillion fasteners hold it quietly in place? > > Mark > > > Thanks, Mark > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 08:18:20 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 07:18:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <4A1163B7.2060901@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4A1163B7.2060901@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <4A116E2C.2000707@comcast.net> Well, FWIW, my BJ8 is an original, unrestored (except for paint) car, and it has always had some scuttle shake (from 64K miles when I bought it to 170K now). Shocks have been rebuilt (Peter C.), driveline and drums balanced, alignment from specialty shop (good one), front suspension rebuilt (yes, correctly), 72-spoke SS Daytons with Pirelli P3s, Yokohama A321s and Vredestein Sprint Classics, tracks true, etc., etc. and it still shakes some. The shake starts at exactly--according to my speedo--at 56-57mph and builds if I stay at that speed, and goes away at 59-60. That's why I believe it's a harmonic in the chassis (I think it's been mentioned that Geoff Healey acknowledged this problem--can anybody say for sure?). Maybe some individual cars are more susceptible to the shake, and I have no doubt a proper resto will accomplish a lot as the suspension bushings, etc. will be renewed. I've done my best, and still have the shake. bs Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: > Mark LaPierre wrote: > >> so I am assuming >> that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph >> >> JOE SAYS, >> Please,please, take a ride in a Healey as built or correctly restored >> to tolerence. Scuttle shake was NOT standard. I have riden in many >> that; did not scuttle shake,did not pull to the left or right under >> brakes, did not have a couple of inches free play in the steering. If >> a Healey has some or all of these features it is NON-Standard and >> defective, or out of specification. A million dollars of shine and >> new parts incorrectly put together does not constitute a RESTORED >> Healey, unless the necessary parts are fitted to specification and >> tolerence. No parts left on the shop floor does not constitute a >> restored car. > > How do you think they were so successful in endurance record breaking, > dirt road rallys and long distance racing,ie. 24 &12 hour duration. > > It concerns me the number of people who restore their Healey without > seeing the need to purchase even one manual or book on these quite basic > cars. Healeys were one of the first of the sports cars to have the > firewall, scuttle and rear cockpit assembly welded to the chassis when > MG's, Triumphs and Jags had these sections bolted. > > Joe > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mkgoodman at att.net Mon May 18 08:23:45 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:23:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Car Cover Message-ID: <001a01c9d7c4$4167bfd0$c4373f70$@net> Dear Tom, Go to your local Walmart and get one of the Bunge Company covers there. I purchased one of the $69.00 versions (Shield Car Cover) 5 years ago and they kept out water from a huge rainstorm and also breathe, so the moisture is not a problem. You will need a Size 2, but if you know someone who is handy with a sewing machine, they can modify a size 3, which I had to do. I wanted another one and ordered a Size 2 from a Bunge Distributor. They do sell them direct: http://www.budgecarcovers.com/ Mark Goodman 66BJ8 35502 www.austinhealeyessence.com From rnbmail at yahoo.com Mon May 18 09:27:33 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:27:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Funny looking BJ8 Message-ID: <7135.35762.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Probably new springs and undersized 165 ties... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Sun, 5/17/09, Alan Seigrist wrote: > From: Alan Seigrist > Subject: [Healeys] Funny looking BJ8 > To: "Healey" > Date: Sunday, May 17, 2009, 9:08 PM > Is it just me or does this BJ8 look > like she's riding just a little high??? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230343344050&ss pagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem= > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From loftusdesign at cox.net Mon May 18 09:28:31 2009 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:28:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! Message-ID: <4A117E9F.5030002@cox.net> Hi Rudy, The central shaft comes through the cap and is peened over, much like a rivet head. As Peter said, this gets worn over time and the cap pops off. The central shaft goes through the body and is what activates a switch near the bottom (inside where the 3 wires attach). If you want to try to 'repair' your original (which is probably a better quality switch than the aftermarket) you could drill and tap the central shaft for a small machine screw. BTW, same thing happened with my Lucas switch but I found a NOS switch to replace it. I kept the repaired original as a back up. Cheers, John From pollpete at ix.netcom.com Mon May 18 09:53:44 2009 From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <4A116E2C.2000707@comcast.net> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4A1163B7.2060901@illawarra.hotkey.net.au> <4A116E2C.2000707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A118488.6040904@ix.netcom.com> I picked up my BJ7 new in May of 1963, with a 100 mile drive home that day. He had scuttle shake then and thereafter, lesser or stronger depending upon the shocks/wheel/tire conditions. Sometimes 55-60 MPH was utterly intolerable: I got a ticket crossing the Oakland Bay Bridge for going too slow- traffic was at 60 (10MPH faster than the limit), but I was at 50! Frame harmonic makes sense to me. My to-do list includes drum and driveshaft balancing near the top and, if I ever truly restore the body, the welds, etc. to the scuttle. Bob Spidell wrote: > Well, FWIW, my BJ8 is an original, unrestored (except for paint) car, > and it has always had some scuttle shake (from 64K miles when I bought > it to 170K now). Shocks have been rebuilt (Peter C.), driveline and > drums balanced, alignment from specialty shop (good one), front > suspension rebuilt (yes, correctly), 72-spoke SS Daytons with Pirelli > P3s, Yokohama A321s and Vredestein Sprint Classics, tracks true, etc., > etc. and it still shakes some. The shake starts at exactly--according > to my speedo--at 56-57mph and builds if I stay at that speed, and goes > away at 59-60. That's why I believe it's a harmonic in the chassis (I > think it's been mentioned that Geoff Healey acknowledged this > problem--can anybody say for sure?). > > Maybe some individual cars are more susceptible to the shake, and I > have no doubt a proper resto will accomplish a lot as the suspension > bushings, etc. will be renewed. I've done my best, and still have the > shake. > > bs > > Joe and Lenore Armour wrote: >> Mark LaPierre wrote: >> >>> so I am assuming >>> that the cars do actually vibrate at a certain mph >>> >>> JOE SAYS, >>> Please,please, take a ride in a Healey as built or correctly >>> restored to tolerence. Scuttle shake was NOT standard. I have riden >>> in many that; did not scuttle shake,did not pull to the left or >>> right under brakes, did not have a couple of inches free play in the >>> steering. If a Healey has some or all of these features it is >>> NON-Standard and defective, or out of specification. A million >>> dollars of shine and new parts incorrectly put together does not >>> constitute a RESTORED Healey, unless the necessary parts are fitted >>> to specification and tolerence. No parts left on the shop floor does >>> not constitute a restored car. >> >> How do you think they were so successful in endurance record >> breaking, dirt road rallys and long distance racing,ie. 24 &12 hour >> duration. >> >> It concerns me the number of people who restore their Healey without >> seeing the need to purchase even one manual or book on these quite >> basic cars. Healeys were one of the first of the sports cars to have >> the firewall, scuttle and rear cockpit assembly welded to the chassis >> when MG's, Triumphs and Jags had these sections bolted. >> >> Joe From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon May 18 10:08:01 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:08:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <4A116076.60906@comcast.net> References: <536609.72726.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001001c9d77f$8b4ae6d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <4A116076.60906@comcast.net> Message-ID: My car has bolt-on wheels from the factory, and a set of minilites. It never shakes. Wilko On May 18, 2009, at 6:19 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Some claim good results from immaculately trued, balanced and > rounded wheels; e.g. from Hendrix (unfortunately, wheels and tires > don't stay trued, balanced and round From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 10:47:38 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:47:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <441380232.9027211242665258823.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Is it a BJ8? bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Healey List" Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 9:08:01 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake My car has bolt-on wheels from the factory, and a set of minilites. It never shakes. Wilko On May 18, 2009, at 6:19 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Some claim good results from immaculately trued, balanced and > rounded wheels; e.g. from Hendrix (unfortunately, wheels and tires > don't stay trued, balanced and round _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From jwbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 18 10:54:01 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:54:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <464857657.1168579.1242665642329.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net> /vuB5JI: Permission denied From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon May 18 13:27:58 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:27:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Message-ID: Hello, I have 2 questions, or 3 actually..: 1. Who makes the best quality wire wheels for Healeys? 2. Who makes them so they look as original in terms of hub & rim shape? 3. These are the ones I know - are there any others? - Dayton - MWS Best, Tadek From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon May 18 13:29:14 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:29:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Picture of assembly of 100Ss at The Cape Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9C5E@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Dear friends, Does anyone could help me with a copy of pictures of the assembly of the 100Ss at The Cape in Warwick. For the Austin-Healey Club UK Midland Centre event, which is part of the Austin Healey Club's celebration of the 50th anniversary of the production of the Austin Healey 3000, we have a planned drive with the visit of The Cape, now workshop of JME Healeys. It would be nice to put one or more pictures of 100S assembly on the wall to show the participants. This event will be over the weekend of Friday 19th, Saturday 20th & Sunday 21st of June 2009. Friday 19th June - Arrival at :- Ashorne Hill Conference Centre This charming Grade II listed building, set in 35 acres of Warwickshire Countryside, will provide an idyllic setting for the Midland Centre weekend. Saturday 20th June. - (Morning) Midlands, along with "HEALEY DRIVER INTERNATIONAL, starts with a Morning visit to JME, the Austin Healey Restoration company, in their new premises, the last surviving Donald Healey Motor Company workshop, at the 'CAPE' in Warwick. JME has worked on many special projects over the years and have restored a number of the well-known ex-works cars, including URX 727, BMO 93B, DRX 258C, SMO 744 and 745. Some of these will be on display on the day. You will also have a chance to meet and talk to the mechanics who originally built them; Den Green, Tommy Eals, Brian Moylan Bob Whittington, Gerald Wiffen and the Team Management of the day, Bill Price. Not forgetting Jonathan Everard. It is hoped that some of the famous drivers will be present, such as, John Harris & Clive Baker. Should also have Basil Wales of the Special Tuning Department, present. Afternoon >From JME, during the afternoon, a planned drive has been organised, to take you through the beautiful countryside of Warwickshire, returning to The Ashorne Hill Hotel and Conference Centre for the evening's buffet dinner with your friends. This event will also contribute to the Thelma Segal Trophy, which is for the best overall Austin Healey, taking into account the Concours & Planned Drive. Sunday 21st June is to be spent in the Market Square, centre of Warwick (See Photo) where the club will have exclusive use for staging both the Midland Centre and National Annual Concours. There will be a special award for the best 3000. So, if you have pictures of 100S assembly and you are willing to send me a copy by mail, it would be really great. And a big thank you from my side and the Organisers of the event. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY From bjorndahl at telus.net Mon May 18 14:23:48 2009 From: bjorndahl at telus.net (Rick Bjorndahl) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:23:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle shake Message-ID: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017> I've got a restored BT7 with the typical shake and an origional BJ8 65000 miles smooth as can be So who knows? Rick Bjorndahl From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Mon May 18 15:58:01 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 17:58:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New post on my blog. Valve Recession In-Reply-To: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017> References: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017> Message-ID: <060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 18 16:34:23 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:34:23 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tadek - No question about it, Dayton is far superior, I've bought from both. They both look identical (like original dunlops). MWS makes their wheels in India. Dayton makes theirs in Ohio. As an added benefit, if you order Daytons in 60 or 72 spokes, the spokes are well enough sealed that you don't need inner tubes! 48s no - but Dayton 48s will never break a spoke. As always, only order complete wheel and tire sets from Hendrix Wire Wheel, worth every extra penny. Alan On 5/19/09, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I have 2 questions, or 3 actually..: > > 1. Who makes the best quality wire wheels for Healeys? > > 2. Who makes them so they look as original in terms of hub & rim shape? > > 3. These are the ones I know - are there any others? > - Dayton > - MWS > > Best, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 18 16:35:30 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:35:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] New post on my blog. Valve Recession In-Reply-To: <060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> References: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017> <060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> Message-ID: So the bad economy has hit our engines as well? On 5/19/09, Michael Salter wrote: > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Mon May 18 18:59:59 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 19:59:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: idgetsprite] California Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & vintage racers Message-ID: I know ZERO about below & NFI & YMMV, yadda, yadda, yadda!!!!!!! (but I SURE WISH I was in CA!!!!!) -----Original Message----- From: Randy N Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 7:45 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] California Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & vintage racers This just popped up today on BaT and looks very interesting..... http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/18/bat- exclusive-50-car-california-barn-stash/ Too bad my garage is full. Randy SF, Ca . __,_._,___ From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 18 19:18:26 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 09:18:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: idgetsprite] California Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & vintage racers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ed - Wow, impressive. The best part is this area of CA is bone dry, there will be no serious rust on any of these cars. I even spotted a factory hard top for a 6 cyl Healey Roadster in there...!!! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 19, 2009 at 8:59 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: > I know ZERO about below & NFI & YMMV, > yadda, yadda, yadda!!!!!!! > (but I SURE WISH I was in CA!!!!!) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Randy N > Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 7:45 PM > Subject: [midgetsprite] California > Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & > vintage racers > > This just popped up today on BaT and > looks very interesting..... > > > http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/18/bat- > exclusive-50-car-california-barn-stash/ > > Too bad my garage is full. > > Randy > SF, Ca > > . From alexmm at roadrunner.com Mon May 18 19:29:16 2009 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:29:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Octane recession References: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017> <060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> Message-ID: I've noticed that all the gas stations locally here in southern Maine have reduced their high-test/premium product from last year's 93 octane rating to a 91 rating. Has anyone else noticed this downward change? == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.33/2120 - Release Date: 05/18/09 06:28:00 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon May 18 20:38:01 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 02:38:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?scuttle_shake?= Message-ID: <20090519023801.7300.qmail@server278.com> my bj8 with wire wheels shakes. wires have been trued and wheels balanced many times. the bn6 with disk wheels has been balanced on harbor freight bubble balancer and it does not shake on a smooth road. From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Mon May 18 23:50:20 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 07:50:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Alan, Mark, Many thanks for all advice.. There is also Borrani I guess in Italy :-) One more question that might sound stupid - what is the reason for buying new wheels and dumping the old ones? Are the 50 year old wheels that unsafe?... From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 19 00:01:30 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 14:01:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tadek - 50 year old 48 spoked wheels should be ok if you are just using it for casual driving. More often that not, both the hub spline and the wire wheel splines are worn meaning that at some point the hub will spin in the wheel stripping both the hub and wheel splines - usually on the rear wheels. It's not all that dangerous per se... if you know what you are doing, but when it goes you will probably need to be towed home. Also, if spokes start breaking, that's usually a sign the wheels are too old. My view is, if you are restoring your car, I would spend the money on new hubs, wheels and tires - doing this means you will never have a problem as long as you live, and you'll never have to worry about a loose wheel that might unwind a knock off. Both my BN1 and BJ8 have had the front and rear hubs replaced, as well as the wire wheels. I have no desire to take chances. Hubs and wheels should always be replaced new as a matched set. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 19, 2009 at 1:50 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Alan, Mark, > > Many thanks for all advice.. > > There is also Borrani I guess in Italy :-) > > > One more question that might sound stupid - what is the reason for buying > new wheels and dumping the old ones? Are the 50 year old wheels that > unsafe?... From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Tue May 19 02:15:07 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 18:15:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shake Message-ID: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Shakes do not fall out of the sky and make your car shake. Assuming the road surface is reasonable the vibration is introduced by a component of the car. Any rotating part is a suspect. Jack the wheel at each corner and rotate it with a pointer aim at first the wheel rim for roundness and also circumferential true. Repeat the same test for the tyre surface. Even though perfectly balanced any out of round/true will induce a vibration. Also tyres as the wear change their degree of being true.If the above condition or road surface should induce a vibration the damper ( incorrectly referred to by many as a shock absorber should control this wheel movement. Remember big fat and heavy wheels and tyres reduce the dampers ability to control the bump and rebound of the unsprung weight in the wheel/tyre/hub assembly. Once the vibration is induced and remains undamped I believe the 612lb motor and 112lb. g'box assembly starts its own harmonics and rocks on/in the engine mounts. Softened engineer mounts exerbates this movement and excites the chassis and scuttle. Works cars had modifed plates on one side of the rubber block which I assume was to further contain the eng/g'box movements. Also works cars had stiffened eng. mount towers of the chassis to further limit eng/g'box raised above the main chassis rails Your comments please From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue May 19 02:39:00 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 10:39:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9D32@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Hello Tadek, As others already stated, the better made wheels are the Daytons, but here in Europe they are double the price of the MWS. And they look different to the originals. At least you and Concours judges can see. The MWS improved much in quality over the last years. So my suggestion would be, when you want to drive the car over long distances, take the Daytons, if you want to keep originality take the MWS. But in any case I would opt for the 48 spokes and narrow tyres, as these look best on the 100s. The 72 spokes have a too modern style. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From ktaplin at gwi.net Tue May 19 04:58:29 2009 From: ktaplin at gwi.net (Ken Taplin) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:58:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Octane recession References: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017><060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> Message-ID: <001201c9d870$bf034890$da92c3d8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC> Probably something to do with the addition of 10% ethanol last Nov. Everyone I know has also experienced at least a 10% reduction in gas milage. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 9:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] Octane recession > I've noticed that all the gas stations locally here in southern Maine have > reduced their high-test/premium product from last year's 93 octane rating > to > a 91 rating. Has anyone else noticed this downward change? > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send > plain text.] > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.33/2120 - Release Date: 05/18/09 > 06:28:00 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ktaplin at gwi.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 19 05:45:48 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 13:45:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Shake In-Reply-To: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <4A129BEC.3040100@chello.nl> This is not strictly true. A harmonic vibration in a system, in this case the car, can be caused by a single inpulse, e.g. a pot hole. There is no neccessity for a rotating mass or a vibration to start the shaking. Kees Oudesluijs. NL sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au schreef: > Shakes do not fall out of the sky and make your car shake. Assuming the road > surface is reasonable the vibration is introduced by a component of the car. > Any rotating part is a suspect. Jack the wheel at each corner and rotate it > with a pointer aim at first the wheel rim for roundness and also > circumferential true. Repeat the same test for the tyre surface. Even though > perfectly balanced any out of round/true will induce a vibration. Also tyres > as the wear change their degree of being true.If the above condition or road > surface should induce a vibration the damper ( incorrectly referred to by many > as a shock absorber should control this wheel movement. Remember big fat and > heavy wheels and tyres reduce the dampers ability to control the bump and > rebound of the unsprung weight in the wheel/tyre/hub assembly. Once the > vibration is induced and remains undamped I believe the 612lb motor and 112lb. > g'box assembly starts its own harmonics and rocks on/in the engine mounts. > Softened engineer mounts exerbates this movement and excites the chassis and > scuttle. Works cars had modifed plates on one side of the rubber block which I > assume was to further contain the eng/g'box movements. Also works cars had > stiffened eng. mount towers of the chassis to further limit eng/g'box raised > above the main chassis rails > > Your comments please > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.34/2121 - Release Date: 05/18/09 17:55:00 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue May 19 06:43:52 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:43:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9D32@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> Tadek, et al, I have only ever bought and used the MWS painted wheels who use the original Dunlop design. The quality of the India manufactured wheels has been very high for over 20 years and of all the sets we've bought and installed on my own and customers project cars, there have never been any problems, and some of these have been driven extensively. Certainly as Josef stated, there is a difference in the look of the MWS vs. the Daytons, both in shape and as far as I've seen, colour of the paint. The Daytons are definetly a darker silver gray than they should be, where the MWS are spot on. Certainly your choice, but I would definetly recommend the painted 48 spoke MWS wheels with nothing bigger than the 165x15 or equivalent tires. If you care to go all the way back to originality, these wheels fitted with new but original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires (as originally fitted to your car) will give the car it's original look with full and even wheel arches, ride height and driving characteristics, admittedly quite different from a radial tire, but no stress on the wheels or the car, and great fun to drive. These were the best and highest performance tire of their day. Now come the comments.... Rich Chrysler From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue May 19 07:08:25 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 15:08:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9D32@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9EB2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> I can only fully support what Rich wrote. I have the painted 48 spoke MWS wheels with the Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires fitted to my 100 and I really like to drive them. Its a very smooth and soft ride and when you are a bit to fast round the corners you will get a direct feedback by the whistle of the tires. No other wheel/tire combination has this great authentically look. On the negative side, the Roadspeed tires are real pricey. And in rain you need to drive a bit more careful as with radials, as the rear breaks out immediately round corners. But I am not doing long distances with the car. And I only drive in rain, when I have no choice. Josef Eckert -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Mai 2009 14:44 An: Eckert, Josef; tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Tadek, et al, I have only ever bought and used the MWS painted wheels who use the original Dunlop design. The quality of the India manufactured wheels has been very high for over 20 years and of all the sets we've bought and installed on my own and customers project cars, there have never been any problems, and some of these have been driven extensively. Certainly as Josef stated, there is a difference in the look of the MWS vs. the Daytons, both in shape and as far as I've seen, colour of the paint. The Daytons are definetly a darker silver gray than they should be, where the MWS are spot on. Certainly your choice, but I would definetly recommend the painted 48 spoke MWS wheels with nothing bigger than the 165x15 or equivalent tires. If you care to go all the way back to originality, these wheels fitted with new but original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires (as originally fitted to your car) will give the car it's original look with full and even wheel arches, ride height and driving characteristics, admittedly quite different from a radial tire, but no stress on the wheels or the car, and great fun to drive. These were the best and highest performance tire of their day. Now come the comments.... Rich Chrysler From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 19 07:14:16 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:14:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Octane recession In-Reply-To: <001201c9d870$bf034890$da92c3d8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC> References: <9B078CB02D8543C3BFD09E24B1D72C48@ownerbdf58f017><060D3D47AF36462B8FDD443CC66891BF@michael> <001201c9d870$bf034890$da92c3d8@YOUR85A8F7B8EC> Message-ID: <4A12B0A8.70601@comcast.net> Actually, ethanol has a higher octane rating than (most) gasoline--that's why it's used in some dragsters--but indeed has lower specific energy (i.e. BTU per unit volume) so you get a decrease in mileage. I can get 93 and 100 octane gas locally--but it's expensive--and the 100 octane contains ethanol whereas the 93 octane does not. The reduction in available octane ratings seems to just be a trend; more and more cars are built to run on regular and even most high-performance engines only need 91 octane gas. In high elevation areas, it's hard to find anything over 89 octane. Bob Ken Taplin wrote: > Probably something to do with the addition of 10% ethanol last Nov. > Everyone I know has also experienced at least a 10% reduction in gas > milage. > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" > To: > Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 9:29 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Octane recession > > >> I've noticed that all the gas stations locally here in southern Maine >> have >> reduced their high-test/premium product from last year's 93 octane >> rating to >> a 91 rating. Has anyone else noticed this downward change? >> >> == Alex in Maine >> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >> 1965 MG Midget >> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm >> >> ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 19 07:45:22 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:45:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shake In-Reply-To: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <4A12B7F2.1040705@comcast.net> re: "big fat and heavy wheels and tyres reduce the dampers ability to control the bump and rebound of the unsprung weight in the wheel/tyre/hub assembly" On that note, do the "uprated" or "heavy duty" damper valves and/or rebuilds help with this? Bob sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au wrote: > Shakes do not fall out of the sky and make your car shake. Assuming the road > surface is reasonable the vibration is introduced by a component of the car. > Any rotating part is a suspect. Jack the wheel at each corner and rotate it > with a pointer aim at first the wheel rim for roundness and also > circumferential true. Repeat the same test for the tyre surface. Even though > perfectly balanced any out of round/true will induce a vibration. Also tyres > as the wear change their degree of being true.If the above condition or road > surface should induce a vibration the damper ( incorrectly referred to by many > as a shock absorber should control this wheel movement. Remember big fat and > heavy wheels and tyres reduce the dampers ability to control the bump and > rebound of the unsprung weight in the wheel/tyre/hub assembly. Once the > vibration is induced and remains undamped I believe the 612lb motor and 112lb. > g'box assembly starts its own harmonics and rocks on/in the engine mounts. > Softened engineer mounts exerbates this movement and excites the chassis and > scuttle. Works cars had modifed plates on one side of the rubber block which I > assume was to further contain the eng/g'box movements. Also works cars had > stiffened eng. mount towers of the chassis to further limit eng/g'box raised > above the main chassis rails ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From pryner at verizon.net Tue May 19 07:54:32 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 09:54:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New spitfire owner in Ft Meyers needs assistance In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9EB2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9D32@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9EB2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: I know this is a Healey list, but I hope someone out there can help another LBC owner. I just received a call from a fellow who recently purchased a spitfire. He lives out west drove the car to Florida. He is currently in the North Ft Meyers, FL area. He has brake problems and is looking for a place to have it looked at and repaired. I'm on the VTR road assistance list, but am located in the Tampa area. Is there anyone in the Ft Meyers area who can recommend a shop for him? Any help is appreciated. Pete From bn1 at pacbell.net Tue May 19 11:10:04 2009 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 10:10:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: idgetsprite] California Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & vintage racers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A12E7EC.5030806@pacbell.net> And while you're at this very tiny speed bump in the road checking out the cars, be sure to have lunch or dinner at Jocko's. You'll be hard pressed to find a more delicious, HUGE, and less expensive steak anywhere! Until now Jocko's was only known to the locals and few others. :-) They also have Spumoni ice cream, but you have to ask for it as it's not on the menu. Bill Barnett '53 BN1M Ed's Shop wrote: > I know ZERO about below & NFI & YMMV, > yadda, yadda, yadda!!!!!!! > (but I SURE WISH I was in CA!!!!!) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Randy N > Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 7:45 PM > Subject: [midgetsprite] California > Barn of MG's, Sprites, Midgets, & > vintage racers > > This just popped up today on BaT and > looks very interesting..... > > > http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/18/bat- > exclusive-50-car-california-barn-stash/ > > Too bad my garage is full. > > Randy > SF, Ca From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 19 11:18:01 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 12:18:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <> Yep Rich, I AM with YOU a 100% !!!! Since MWS took over I think I have sold a couple dozen sets with ZERO problems (also). Ed From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 19 11:24:18 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 19:24:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9D32@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <5BD3376D23BC48DA860B266A17558A88@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <4A12EB42.6020505@chello.nl> I tend to agree with Rich that fitting wide(r) tires on wire wheels is not a wise decision, but I doubt if this is also applicable to using radials. Wider tires (and wider rims for that matter) create problems in balancing wire wheels accurately as they are more flexible and in general less accurate in dimensions than aluminium or steel disc wheels. Also, as wider tires have a higher grip in general, the load on the rims can be considerably higher, causing some deformation and possible breakage of the spokes, especially with SS ( and perhaps chromed) spokes when driving hard. If really serious spirited driving is on the cards, use aluminium or steel disc wheels. The Minilites or slotted Wolfraces do look rather nice and purposeful on any car and they deliver, as rally cars of the day showed. Some say that the India manufactured wheels are of a consistant and higher quality than the original British made wheels. Kees Oudesluijs NL Rich C schreef: > Tadek, et al, > > I have only ever bought and used the MWS painted wheels who use the > original Dunlop design. The quality of the India manufactured wheels > has been very high for over 20 years and of all the sets we've bought > and installed on my own and customers project cars, there have never > been any problems, and some of these have been driven extensively. > Certainly as Josef stated, there is a difference in the look of the > MWS vs. the Daytons, both in shape and as far as I've seen, colour of > the paint. The Daytons are definetly a darker silver gray than they > should be, where the MWS are spot on. > Certainly your choice, but I would definetly recommend the painted 48 > spoke MWS wheels with nothing bigger than the 165x15 or equivalent > tires. If you care to go all the way back to originality, these wheels > fitted with new but original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires (as > originally fitted to your car) will give the car it's original look > with full and even wheel arches, ride height and driving > characteristics, admittedly quite different from a radial tire, but no > stress on the wheels or the car, and great fun to drive. These were > the best and highest performance tire of their day. > > Now come the comments.... > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.34/2122 - Release Date: 05/19/09 06:21:00 From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue May 19 12:15:21 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 14:15:21 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings Message-ID: Can someone please give me a good source for Poly suspension bushings? These are NOT for a Healey so I need one of the suppliers that carries multiple sizes, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) From bighealey at charter.net Tue May 19 12:30:52 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 11:30:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <233F61C7BA0840E198F97E5C9820FD65@TRACY> Mike, Have you tried your local hot rod / speed shop or maybe Summit Racing online? Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 11:15 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings Can someone please give me a good source for Poly suspension bushings? These are NOT for a Healey so I need one of the suppliers that carries multiple sizes, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlc ntustrav00000002) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 19 12:53:14 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:53:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A13001A.6060703@chello.nl> Try: http://www.superflex.co.uk/ Kees Oudesluijs NL Awgertoo at aol.com schreef: > Can someone please give me a good source for Poly suspension bushings? > These are NOT for a Healey so I need one of the suppliers that carries > multiple sizes, etc. > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in > the U.S. > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.34/2122 - Release Date: 05/19/09 06:21:00 From pryner at verizon.net Tue May 19 12:44:10 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 14:44:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New spitfire owner in Ft Meyers needs assistance - FOUND Message-ID: Thanks to all who quickly posted responses. Dave sent an name of a local shop he is going to. I have passed the other responses to him in case he needs more help. Pete From bj7ah at acanac.net Tue May 19 13:16:22 2009 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 15:16:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! References: Message-ID: <66D1038AA2084573801DF48B74254EF5@ROBDT> I just soldered Mine about 5 years ago and is still working fine. Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 7:22 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Headlight dipper switch - help! > Recently the little (1") cap/button popped off it's bracket. This is the > dimmer switch that controls the high/low headlights on my Bugeye - same as > my > BN4. I cleaned it up and pushed it back on, but because of the spring, it > just pops back off. There is no apparent way to fastened it down. Even > the > Parts Manual doesn't show any method to secure the cap. And looking at > the > bracket, there is nothing that appears to be a switch to control the > headlights. It is just a solid piece with the 3 wires connected to the > underneath. > Any guidance and/or explanation is greatly appreciated. > Rudy Streng > Lenoir, NC > **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in > the U.S. > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From WLLDBL at aol.com Tue May 19 15:51:20 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:51:20 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Message-ID: <<>> >Tadek, et al, > >...If you care to go all the way back to originality, these >wheels fitted with new but original design Dunlop >Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires (as originally fitted to your >car) will give the car it's original look.... > >Rich Chrysler Who sells the original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires???? Douglas Lyon Claremont, CA '59 BN7 **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823248x1201398651/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May Excfooter51609NO62) From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 19 16:23:05 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 15:23:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> Of course if you want to be safe on the road I would stay away from the old antique style tires and put some good safe radial tires on the car. Some of the vintage tires are made from some of the old antiquated molds and are not a quality tire. So i would recommend that you be safe and get the most out of your car and either install 60 or 72 spoke wheels with a modern 185 70 radial tire. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 19, 2009, at 2:51 PM, WLLDBL at aol.com wrote: > <<>> > >> Tadek, et al, >> >> ...If you care to go all the way back to originality, these >> wheels fitted with new but original design Dunlop >> Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires (as originally fitted to your >> car) will give the car it's original look.... >> >> Rich Chrysler > > > Who sells the original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires???? > > Douglas Lyon > Claremont, CA > > '59 BN7 > > **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 > Easy > Steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823248x1201398651/aol? > redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx? > sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May > Excfooter51609NO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Tue May 19 16:47:51 2009 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 15:47:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <878337.50657.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi John, I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I know that Healeys are not pre-war . None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or balance drums. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From dgschwind at comcast.net Tue May 19 16:58:49 2009 From: dgschwind at comcast.net (dgschwind at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 22:58:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening Message-ID: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hi, Listers, B B B B At the risk of asking the same question that has been answered before, please give me some advise. The hubs on the car all have some flatness on the top of the splines, and the wheels appear even more complete. I've encounterted great difficulty removing the knock-offs even requiring a brass hammer. When installing I put no lub on the splines, and barely any on the cones. I tighten them snug with a dead blow hammer with the wheels off of the ground. I have chrome 72 spoke wire wheels and standard hubs. I used a red lead material on my 100 in the 50's without a problem. Should I not use any lub or is there an alternate material? I'd like to get it "correct" before I leave Michigan for Kingston next month. Please offer your wisdom to me. By the way, I am not a hard driver. Thanks in advance. DONB BJ8B B Pandora From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Tue May 19 17:02:12 2009 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 16:02:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] drivetrain vibrations Message-ID: <670405.36950.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The most common cause of drive train vibration is the compression buckle- just forward of the front bulkhead in the main chassis rail. This compression buckle changes the elevation of the transmission in relation to the rear end causing the drive shaft to operate outside of its design perimeters this will cause a vibration through the centre of the car,same effect as a worn u joint. This will eventually effect the pinion bearing and rear transmission bearing. Certain suspension modifications can also cause this problem. The chassis' purpose is to maintain consistent information to all functioning components of the car. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue May 19 17:56:40 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 16:56:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <447737.63485.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Marty, I'm a little confused. The February 1965 Road & Track review of the BJ8, states "The ride is firm and there is some chassis flexing evident from the authentic cowl shake which occurs on any but the smoothest surfaces.", which makes me think that some, if not all the BJ8s and BJ7s had some degree of scuttle shake when new. Your website seems to indicate your chassis is pretty close to identical with the original. Yet you seem to be able to eliminate scuttle shake. Not trying to be a wiseguy, here, just trying to understand, How do you do it? Rick --- On Tue, 5/19/09, Martin Jansen wrote: From: Martin Jansen Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 6:47 PM Hi John, I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I know that Healeys are not pre-war . None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or balance drums. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From pennell at cox.net Tue May 19 18:03:38 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:03:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] drivetrain vibrations Message-ID: <20090519200338.C0Z30.8321.imail@eastrmwml43> Martin et al, As part of my BN7 resto I wanted to take some structural measures to eliminate the shakes. Among other things I welded in 1.5 angle iron on the tops of both main rails from the motor mounts back to the crucifix. Welds were about 2 inches spaced about 2 inches apart. I also welded in the 3/4 angle iron inside the tranny box as I call it and added more weld on the cockpit side of the tranny opening. Balancing the drums was also done. No hard data but the car has no shake or rattle - just roll! Keith Pennell ---- Martin Jansen wrote: > The most common cause of drive train vibration is the compression buckle- just > forward of the front bulkhead in the main chassis rail. From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue May 19 18:10:27 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 19:10:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening In-Reply-To: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Is important to lube your splines, though not as important on a sheltered collector car as on a daily driver, I acquired an MGB many years ago upon which this had not been done and much swearing and application of brute force as well as consumption of soothing beverages was needed to pursuade wheel from hub. Bearing grease is often suggested, I find that it tends to leak out onto the spokes from centrifugal force when it gets hot on the highway, I have used anti-sieze compound with good results and less mess. As far as taking the knock offs off that is more a function of how hard they were whacked on than any grease used or not used, but still a good idea to lube these as well. Greg Lemon From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue May 19 18:21:32 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:21:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] drivetrain vibrations Message-ID: <32563.86861.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Keith, I've seen the article about your transmission box reinforcement: http://www.britishcarweek.org/scuttle.html but it doesn't mention the chassis rail reinforcement. I'm trying to picture what you did. Did you take two pieces of 1.5 angle on each side, basically capping the rails? Thanks, Rick --- On Tue, 5/19/09, pennell at cox.net wrote: From: pennell at cox.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] drivetrain vibrations To: "Martin Jansen" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:03 PM Martin et al, As part of my BN7 resto I wanted to take some structural measures to eliminate the shakes. Among other things I welded in 1.5 angle iron on the tops of both main rails from the motor mounts back to the crucifix. Welds were about 2 inches spaced about 2 inches apart. I also welded in the 3/4 angle iron inside the tranny box as I call it and added more weld on the cockpit side of the tranny opening. Balancing the drums was also done. No hard data but the car has no shake or rattle - just roll! Keith Pennell ---- Martin Jansen wrote: > The most common cause of drive train vibration is the compression buckle- just > forward of the front bulkhead in the main chassis rail. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 19 18:36:45 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:36:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake In-Reply-To: <878337.50657.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <878337.50657.qm@web53007.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A13509D.8040808@comcast.net> Martin, Good, logical information. So .... what is the fix (short of buying your chassis)? Gussets, bracing, etc.? bs Martin Jansen wrote: > Hi John, > I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this > problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron > in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger > webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. > The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering > geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I > know that Healeys are not pre-war . > None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We > use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or > balance drums. > > > Happy Healeying, Marty > www.jule-enterprises.com -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From javrugtman at htcnet.org Tue May 19 18:40:08 2009 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:40:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] drivetrain vibrations In-Reply-To: <670405.36950.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <670405.36950.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A135168.2000009@htcnet.org> OK, just what is a compression buckle? BTW, I have a BJ8 with no normally induced scuttle shake at 55mph; normally as in out of round tires, drive shaft unbalanced, unbalanced tires, rear brake drums unbalanced. John Martin Jansen wrote: > The most common cause of drive train vibration is the compression buckle- just > forward of the front bulkhead in the main chassis rail. This compression > buckle changes the elevation of the transmission in relation to the rear end > causing the drive shaft to operate outside of its design perimeters this will > cause a vibration through the centre of the car,same effect as a worn u joint. > This will eventually effect the pinion bearing and rear transmission bearing. > Certain suspension modifications can also cause this problem. > The chassis' purpose is to maintain consistent information to all functioning > components of the car. > Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue May 19 18:51:38 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:51:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shake In-Reply-To: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <20090519181507.7887177nhndvbszv@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: As a side note, I recently installed a new engine with new engine mounts......my scuttle shake has since disappeared....used to come on at 70mph like a clock. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 1:15 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shake Shakes do not fall out of the sky and make your car shake. Assuming the road surface is reasonable the vibration is introduced by a component of the car. Any rotating part is a suspect. Jack the wheel at each corner and rotate it with a pointer aim at first the wheel rim for roundness and also circumferential true. Repeat the same test for the tyre surface. Even though perfectly balanced any out of round/true will induce a vibration. Also tyres as the wear change their degree of being true.If the above condition or road surface should induce a vibration the damper ( incorrectly referred to by many as a shock absorber should control this wheel movement. Remember big fat and heavy wheels and tyres reduce the dampers ability to control the bump and rebound of the unsprung weight in the wheel/tyre/hub assembly. Once the vibration is induced and remains undamped I believe the 612lb motor and 112lb. g'box assembly starts its own harmonics and rocks on/in the engine mounts. Softened engineer mounts exerbates this movement and excites the chassis and scuttle. Works cars had modifed plates on one side of the rubber block which I assume was to further contain the eng/g'box movements. Also works cars had stiffened eng. mount towers of the chassis to further limit eng/g'box raised above the main chassis rails Your comments please Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 19 18:51:38 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:51:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper gear box question Message-ID: <002801c9d8e5$22c29e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Its been years since I refurbed my wiper motor and the left and right side gear boxes. I can get the passenger side gear box in up into the shroud hole OK but the driver side is giving me a fight. I can't seem to get it into the correct angle without putting a lot of tension on it that seems to me may affect the way it operates later on. Will loosening the large nut that holds the tube to the motor be of benefit or maybe loosening the 2 screws on the gear box cover and allowing the box to seat its home position better? Like I said, its been a long time since I toyed with this so the action of moving these screws and nut are very vague to my memory. Any ideas? Mark From ampole at hotmail.com Tue May 19 19:07:02 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 01:07:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper gear box question In-Reply-To: <002801c9d8e5$22c29e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <002801c9d8e5$22c29e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark I found the same problem and found it a lot easier to loosen the tube nut which can give you some adjustment, also if you take the wheelbox covers off you will find there is 2 slots on each side that the tube shoulders can sit in, so again you have a little adjustment there. I also found that the looking down the hole thru the shroud and bulkhead top were slightly out of line before I put the spindles thru, so filed the one. Make sure the wheelboxes are the right way up also, off the top of my head I cannot remember, but search the archives, good old Rich replied to my question on which way up. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 19 19:13:28 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 18:13:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening In-Reply-To: References: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A135938.5080306@comcast.net> re: "I find that it tends to leak out onto the spokes from centrifugal force when it gets hot on the highway" A little clear silicone sealant around the spoke ends inside the hub prevents this. bs Greg Lemon wrote: > Is important to lube your splines, though not as important on a > sheltered collector car as on a daily driver, I acquired an MGB many > years ago upon which this had not been done and much swearing and > application of brute force as well as consumption of soothing beverages > was needed to pursuade wheel from hub. > > Bearing grease is often suggested, I find that it tends to leak out onto > the spokes from centrifugal force when it gets hot on the highway, I > have used anti-sieze compound with good results and less mess. > > As far as taking the knock offs off that is more a function of how hard > they were whacked on than any grease used or not used, but still a good > idea to lube these as well. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ampole at hotmail.com Tue May 19 19:19:07 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 01:19:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper gear box question - dont forget to test In-Reply-To: References: <002801c9d8e5$22c29e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark I had a problem after installing and had to take it out again, but just pulled the motor and inner cable leaving the tubes and wheelboxes in situ, so I would test it first, heres a reply I did for someone else (and checking thru the archives the cable runs along bottom of wheelboxes): Just put the battery on my bj8 to test all the electics and had the same problem, I had previously cleaned, greased and rebuilt it. Had to take the glovebox out to get at it again which was a pain. Regardless off negative or positive cars, on the bench, attach the + of a battery to the terminal 2 (was green wire) then attach the earth E and terminal 1 (was black / green) together and to the - of the battery to see if it works. Terminal 1 is the internally limit switched contact for the park control from the plate in the gearbox. My problem was that on reassembly the commutator was to tight against the case on the opposite side to the field windings. To check the motor undo the 2 long screws on the top (terminal end) and prise off the top, check to see the commutator spins freely, checks the brushes, you may the need to remove the 2 screws in the body that lock the field windings to the body and pull off the body, you can then check the windings with a meter and visually. When you put it back together make sure it again spins freely (the motor body has a slight recess that only goes part way down inside, so make sure it is the right way up). Dried grease in the gearbox may also be to blame, clean and regrease. It doesnt take much pressure to stop the motor turning! Hope that helps, cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/ From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 19 21:30:48 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:30:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <396749.89804.qm@web52404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <396749.89804.qm@web52404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090519202721.01fb6770@pop.att.yahoo.com> Phil, I did not read all of the posts so I don't know if anyone mentioned that because of the rigid frame jack stands may only be supporting three of the four corners at any one time unless shimmed. It in not uncommon, at least with a BT7, to be working on it from underneath and kick a jack stand only to find out it is loose! John At 12:08 PM 5/10/2009 -0700, Jackson Krall wrote: >A secure hydraulic jack to get the car up on sturdy jack stands on >solid level ground... From PhilRitten at aol.com Tue May 19 22:01:48 2009 From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 00:01:48 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) Message-ID: Does anyone have a recommendation on body fillers (putty), or is the stuff from Pep Boys just as good as everything else? **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823248x1201398651/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May Excfooter51609NO62) From csooch1 at aol.com Tue May 19 22:19:42 2009 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 23:19:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My personal opinion, talc based fillers you find at local auto stores are trash. They absorb moisture so unless you can guarantee a complete seal away from humidity, using them will eventually rust the metal out from behind the paint. They dent easily also...door dings. Some of the Polyester based fillers available today are much better,, are not porous and are very tough. I haven't found one I like though. I'll keep looking though, since the alternatives are more work. It is hard to work with, and expensive, but to date I prefer filler like All-Metal. It is not porous and a complete pain in the butt to work, so don't apply it any thicker than you need thinking you can "cheese grater" the excess off. When you apply it, think about it like this...I just applied a skim coat of cast iron. That is about what it is like to sand and shape that stuff. BUT, when you reach the shape you want, it will be that way for the foreseeable future. The lightweight fillers make it easy to produce something that looks pretty good, but is not really any good at all. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PhilRitten at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 11:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) Does anyone have a recommendation on body fillers (putty), or is the stuff from Pep Boys just as good as everything else? From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 19 22:45:04 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:45:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You also have to be VERY careful about puttying the ALI shrouds - CRACK! Better there to shape to clean metal. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 19 22:55:06 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 21:55:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A138D2A.2080401@comcast.net> I'm not an expert, but I've learned quite a bit doing work on both my BJ8 and BN2. All the "pros"--including those on the hot rod shows on TV--seem to use products from Evercoat: http://www.evercoat.com/ I've used their products and they seem to work very well. I believe they use polyester fiber filler. For general use: http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=10 I don't know about their "Quantum 1" products--they appear to be fairly new and I haven't tried them, but their other products are good enough that I'd give them the benefit of the doubt. One thing I learned too late for my work is that for application to bare metal you should use their "Metal2Metal" product. This uses ground metal filler instead of--or in addition to--fiber in order to more thoroughly seal against moisture next to the metal, helping to prevent rust bubbling and lifting over time. Then, use their "Rage" products on top of the Metal2Metal. They also make several products called "glazes." These are thinner and creamier fillers that are applied, if necessary, on top of the Rage products. They're used for filling very small voids and scratches. Finally, apply a high build primer, sand, then use a guide coat to get the waves out, sand, repeat ... I'm sure there are other products that work well, but Evercoat seems to be very popular and it should be available at your local auto paint store. Bob PhilRitten at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone have a recommendation on body fillers (putty), or is the stuff > from Pep Boys just as good as everything else? ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 19 21:41:59 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:41:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening In-Reply-To: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emery ville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090519203942.01fb84b0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I have heard that knock-offs tighten as one drives which is why they are so much harder to knock-off than knock-on. At 10:58 PM 5/19/2009 +0000, dgschwind at comcast.net wrote: >Hi, Listers, >.... I tighten them snug.... From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Tue May 19 23:13:15 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 15:13:15 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090519202721.01fb6770@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <396749.89804.qm@web52404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20090519202721.01fb6770@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090520151315.1652389pq7z9d5d7@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Quoting john spaur : > Phil, > > I did not read all of the posts so I don't know if anyone mentioned > that because of the rigid frame jack stands may only be supporting > three of the four corners at any one time unless shimmed. It in not > uncommon, at least with a BT7, to be working on it from underneath > and kick a jack stand only to find out it is loose! > > John INHO Does this not indicate chassis regidity exists? > > At 12:08 PM 5/10/2009 -0700, Jackson Krall wrote: >> A secure hydraulic jack to get the car up on sturdy jack stands on >> solid level ground... > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html[1] > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys[2] > > You are subscribed as sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au > > http://www.team.net/archive[3] > Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [3] http://www.team.net/archive From rwil at sbcglobal.net Tue May 19 23:16:03 2009 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 22:16:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) In-Reply-To: <4A138D2A.2080401@comcast.net> References: <4A138D2A.2080401@comcast.net> Message-ID: I've found Evercoat materials to be good. I really like metal filled stuff rather than talc or glass bead filled polyester. It seems to be waterproof and keeps moisture from reaching the steel underneath. Also it has a marginal bit of greater strength. In my experience there is nothing about aluminum that makes polyester fillers break or crack worse than steel. Both will pop filler off the metal if you bend the metal enough. if you have the skill to finish aluminum to its final contour without filler, be my guest. I would rather keep the aluminum as thick (stiff, strong) as possible and skim coat where needed. Once you have the contours just about right, the glazes and similar stuff are good for the final surfacing. -Roland On Tue, 19 May 2009 21:55:06 -0700, you wrote: (edited) ::I'm not an expert, but I've learned quite a bit doing work on both my BJ8 and ::BN2. All the "pros"--including those on the hot rod shows on TV--seem to use ::products from Evercoat: http://www.evercoat.com/ I've used their products and ::they seem to work very well. I believe they use polyester fiber filler. For ::general use: http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=10 ::One thing I learned too late for my work is that for application to bare metal ::you should use their "Metal2Metal" product. This uses ground metal filler ::instead of--or in addition to--fiber in order to more thoroughly seal against ::moisture next to the metal, helping to prevent rust bubbling and lifting over ::time. Then, use their "Rage" products on top of the Metal2Metal. :: ::Bob :: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 20 00:43:27 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 08:43:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper gear box question In-Reply-To: References: <002801c9d8e5$22c29e20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <4A13A68F.3040507@chello.nl> Also turn the camwheels in the wheel boxes 180:. This will give you an unworn part of the wheel in action, causing less play on the wiper arms. Kees Oudesluijs NL randy pole schreef: > Mark > > > > I found the same problem and found it a lot easier to loosen the tube nut > which can give you some adjustment, also if you take the wheelbox covers off > you will find there is 2 slots on each side that the tube shoulders can sit > in, so again you have a little adjustment there. > > > > I also found that the looking down the hole thru the shroud and bulkhead top > were slightly out of line before I put the spindles thru, so filed the one. > > > > Make sure the wheelboxes are the right way up also, off the top of my head I > cannot remember, but search the archives, good old Rich replied to my question > on which way up. > > > > cheers Andy > > > _________________________________________________________________ > View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed May 20 00:54:17 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 08:54:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> References: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9FC2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> David, If you want to be safe on the road you should not drive a Healey, at least here in Europe. Our vintage Healeys are not at all save. Better wheels and tires do not help a lot for safety in a Healey. The Roadspeed tires keep with German motorway speed of if you can reach with your car would be 120-150 miles an hour. I know that's only possible around midnight because of the heavy traffic at daytime. And personally I do not like to drive any faster than 80 miles/h with a Healey. For me its fun to drive an old car with old style tires, old style steering wheel, old style gearbox, etc. An old car with modern tires looks to me like an elderly lady with a lifted face - it does not make her younger, just more ugly. But that's my personal opinion. Doug, Here in Europe you can get the Roadspeed tires from http://www.vintagetyres.com/. They usually have a stand at Beaulieu Autojumble (May/September) and give a 10% off listed price there. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von David Nock Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. Mai 2009 00:23 An: WLLDBL at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Of course if you want to be safe on the road I would stay away from the old antique style tires and put some good safe radial tires on the car. Some of the vintage tires are made from some of the old antiquated molds and are not a quality tire. So i would recommend that you be safe and get the most out of your car and either install 60 or 72 spoke wheels with a modern 185 70 radial tire. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 19, 2009, at 2:51 PM, WLLDBL at aol.com wrote: > <<>> > >> Tadek, et al, >> >> ...If you care to go all the way back to originality, these wheels >> fitted with new but original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires >> (as originally fitted to your >> car) will give the car it's original look.... >> >> Rich Chrysler > > > Who sells the original design Dunlop Roadspeed 5.90x15 tires???? > > Douglas Lyon > Claremont, CA > > '59 BN7 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Wed May 20 04:46:26 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 06:46:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers References: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9FC2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <001201c9d938$3a798c10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Looks over Safety? Your kidding right? What about the drivers coming the other way when your out dated tires give up. How many people do you really think are paying attention to what kind of tires your strutten when they have a complete Healey to drool over sitting in front of them. Have to disagree with you here Josef. Safety Fast, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 2:54 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers > David, > If you want to be safe on the road you should not drive a Healey, at least > here in Europe. > Our vintage Healeys are not at all save. Better wheels and tires do not > help a > lot for safety in a Healey. The Roadspeed tires keep with German motorway > speed of if you can reach with your car would be 120-150 miles an hour. I > know > that's only possible around midnight because of the heavy traffic at > daytime. > And personally I do not like to drive any faster than 80 miles/h with a > Healey. For me its fun to drive an old car with old style tires, old style > steering wheel, old style gearbox, etc. An old car with modern tires looks > to > me like an elderly lady with a lifted face - it does not make her younger, > just more ugly. > But that's my personal opinion. > > Doug, > Here in Europe you can get the Roadspeed tires from > http://www.vintagetyres.com/. They usually have a stand at Beaulieu > Autojumble > (May/September) and give a 10% off listed price there. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed May 20 04:54:40 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:54:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <001201c9d938$3a798c10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9FC2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <001201c9d938$3a798c10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30FA0DB@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Mark, My Roadspeed tires are 3 years old and made as 590H/15 CAR TYRE: ROAD: RS5: TL Manufacturer: DUNLOP UK RRP (ex VAT): #139.50 Type: CROSS-PLY Diameter: 660 mm Section Width: 163 mm Max. Speed: 130 mph Max. Load: 435 kg Weight: 8.5 kg Availability: In Stock So I am not talking about outdating tires. Josef -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Mark LaPierre [mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. Mai 2009 12:46 An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Looks over Safety? Your kidding right? What about the drivers coming the other way when your out dated tires give up. How many people do you really think are paying attention to what kind of tires your strutten when they have a complete Healey to drool over sitting in front of them. Have to disagree with you here Josef. Safety Fast, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 2:54 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers > David, > If you want to be safe on the road you should not drive a Healey, at least > here in Europe. > Our vintage Healeys are not at all save. Better wheels and tires do not > help a > lot for safety in a Healey. The Roadspeed tires keep with German motorway > speed of if you can reach with your car would be 120-150 miles an hour. I > know > that's only possible around midnight because of the heavy traffic at > daytime. > And personally I do not like to drive any faster than 80 miles/h with a > Healey. For me its fun to drive an old car with old style tires, old style > steering wheel, old style gearbox, etc. An old car with modern tires looks > to > me like an elderly lady with a lifted face - it does not make her younger, > just more ugly. > But that's my personal opinion. > > Doug, > Here in Europe you can get the Roadspeed tires from > http://www.vintagetyres.com/. They usually have a stand at Beaulieu > Autojumble > (May/September) and give a 10% off listed price there. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed May 20 06:24:08 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 07:24:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Body Filler (Putty) In-Reply-To: References: <4A138D2A.2080401@comcast.net> Message-ID: I took a body class a year or so ago, and subsequntly have conveniently befriended a guy with a body shop, both like Evercoat Glass-lite for filler, it is water proof and strong and works easily, I have used it and like it, for final prep and feathering use their glazing compound, the two part stuff, nut the compounds in a tube that are one part and shrink a little when they dry. The glass lite is fiberglass reinfocred, but unlike other such products I have used if goes on as smooth as regular bondo and works easily. Greg Lemon From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 20 06:37:02 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 05:37:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9FC2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <7F37B11E-EC84-4691-B633-BAE16564CEF0@sbcglobal.net> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F30F9FC2@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4A13F96E.7090105@comcast.net> Well, actually, there's no such thing as a "safe" car; but some are more crashworthy than others (I think we can blame Volvo for the false notion that there are "safe" cars). I can't think of anything in life that's "safe." We've lost several innocents here (USA) lately who were "safe" inside their houses when aircraft fell on them. In life, there is only varying degrees of risk (anybody have a "safe" job?). That said, the key is to manage risk. I think David was trying to point out that new wheels with good radial tires help minimize certain types of risk, especially unexpected--and arguably uncontrollable--loss of control; especially if you're not familiar with the handling qualities of bias-ply tires. I've got a pretty good vocabulary, including a high inventory of profanity, but the word "safe" is the only one that offends me. Bob Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > David, > If you want to be safe on the road you should not drive a Healey, at least > here in Europe. > Our vintage Healeys are not at all save. Better wheels and tires do not help a > lot for safety in a Healey. The Roadspeed tires keep with German motorway > speed of if you can reach with your car would be 120-150 miles an hour. I know > that's only possible around midnight because of the heavy traffic at daytime. > And personally I do not like to drive any faster than 80 miles/h with a > Healey. For me its fun to drive an old car with old style tires, old style > steering wheel, old style gearbox, etc. An old car with modern tires looks to > me like an elderly lady with a lifted face - it does not make her younger, > just more ugly. > But that's my personal opinion. > > Doug, > Here in Europe you can get the Roadspeed tires from > http://www.vintagetyres.com/. They usually have a stand at Beaulieu Autojumble > (May/September) and give a 10% off listed price there. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From WLLDBL at aol.com Wed May 20 08:23:46 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:23:46 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheels manufacturers Message-ID: Ich bin der selben Meinung. Douglas Lyon Claremont, CA '59 BN7 -----Original Message----- ...An old car with modern tires looks to me like an elderly lady with a lifted face - it does not make her younger, just more ugly. But that's my personal opinion. **************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs full line of laptops. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434 3%3Bf) From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 20 08:32:32 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:32:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening In-Reply-To: <4A135938.5080306@comcast.net> References: <2035920035.9973541242773929975.JavaMail.root@sz0147a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4A135938.5080306@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00fd01c9d957$cf932940$6eb97bc0$@rr.com> I tried silicone sealant a couple times, but found that the grease turned the stuff to a very sticky jelly after a while and made it extremely difficult to remove. Maybe it was my high-temp wheel bearing grease I use for lubrication, or the particular brand of silicone. I've found that 3M body seam sealer seals just fine and is impervious to the grease. It seems to last much longer to keep the grease from leaking out, too. Whatever sealant is used, it is very important to get the surfaces extremely clean before applying it or it will just peel right off. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 9:13 PM To: Greg Lemon Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening re: "I find that it tends to leak out onto the spokes from centrifugal force when it gets hot on the highway" A little clear silicone sealant around the spoke ends inside the hub prevents this. bs From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed May 20 11:13:50 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:13:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] One for the gearbox experts Message-ID: <580563.9984.qm@web88008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm presently sorting through my parts inventory and have come across a stumper!! Part # AEB3112 which is a locking plate fits all gearboxes BN2-BJ7 then it changes to 22B188 for the BJ8. I have about 10 of these but they have been mixed up between the early and late part numbers. I can see that some have a very small chamfer on the rear outer edge but they are otherwise all identical. Anyone out there know the difference? Michael Salter From Editorgary at aol.com Wed May 20 13:23:17 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 15:23:17 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Tires Message-ID: I have radial 16570R15 tires on my car (Kelly Metrics) which look reasonably good. I agree that the Roadspeeds look a tiny bit better, because of their high profile, but I certainly believe that my 165s look better than the 185, 195, or 205 that some people put on their Healeys in the (I think mistaken) belief that wider tires automatically equal safer tires. Relative safety totally depends on conditions and the age of the tire (not the period of the style). The narrower tire will be much safer in the rain and on slick conditions, where the wider tire will be more prone to aquaplaning. The age of the tire matters a great deal. If you're running new Roadspeeds, fine: they're speed rated beyond the road-handling speed capability of the Healey, they use modern compounds, and the rubber is fresh. But don't under any circumstances drive on any tire made before 2001 (and some would say 2004 -five to eight years old). Last four digits of the DOT code molded into the tire indicate the week and year that the tire popped out of its mold. There is some difference in handling between a bias-ply and a radial-ply tire, certainly -- my race car runs on bias plies and I like the ability to anticipate and control the drift. On the street, if I were to be going fast enough to break the tires loose, a lot of other things (including my common sense) would already have been lost. Best Gary ************** Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs full line of laptops. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B370 34343%3Bf) From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net Wed May 20 13:34:20 2009 From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:34:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] wire wheel greasing Message-ID: <132326.92242.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Clean you hubs and the splines with a wire brush , put a good smear of disc wheel bearing grease on the splines , the knock off clean the threads and put some oil on the threads ... The spokes at the hub end will show a little dirty , so clean it off with a wire wheel cleaner .. l have had cars that owners didn't grease the hubs and we had to use a cutting torch to remove the wire wheel because of the rust . More info in Healey Highlights May 1986 and page 72 in my Tech Talk book .. on page 122 of my book is factory service bulletin about this subject Norman Nockj --- On Tue, 5/19/09, dgschwind at comcast.net wrote: From: dgschwind at comcast.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 wheel knock-off tightening To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 3:58 PM From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 20 13:49:05 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 19:49:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1554546139.10054491242848945085.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> re: "I agree that the Roadspeeds look a tiny bit better, because of their high profile, but I certainly believe that my 165s look better than the 185, 195, or 205 that some people put on their Healeys" Isn't a 185/70--by definition--taller than a 165/70? FWIW, when the time comes for new wheels I think I'll go to a narrower rim (5.5 or even 5-inch) and smaller tires. The 185/70s on a 6-inch rim are just too damned much work (they do hold though). bs ----- Original Message ----- From: Editorgary at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:23:17 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires I have radial 16570R15 tires on my car (Kelly Metrics) which look reasonably good. I agree that the Roadspeeds look a tiny bit better, because of their high profile, but I certainly believe that my 165s look better than the 185, 195, or 205 that some people put on their Healeys in the (I think mistaken) belief that wider tires automatically equal safer tires. Relative safety totally depends on conditions and the age of the tire (not the period of the style). The narrower tire will be much safer in the rain and on slick conditions, where the wider tire will be more prone to aquaplaning. The age of the tire matters a great deal. If you're running new Roadspeeds, fine: they're speed rated beyond the road-handling speed capability of the Healey, they use modern compounds, and the rubber is fresh. But don't under any circumstances drive on any tire made before 2001 (and some would say 2004 -five to eight years old). Last four digits of the DOT code molded into the tire indicate the week and year that the tire popped out of its mold. There is some difference in handling between a bias-ply and a radial-ply tire, certainly -- my race car runs on bias plies and I like the ability to anticipate and control the drift. On the street, if I were to be going fast enough to break the tires loose, a lot of other things (including my common sense) would already have been lost. Best Gary From shop at justbrits.com Wed May 20 15:42:36 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:42:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: [Jensen-cars] OFF: Anybody in Anaheim, California Message-ID: Can anybody assist this Jensen gent ???? Just click on the 'mailto:' and it "should" open a new blank mail with just his addy in it. Ed *************************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: Per Eie [mailto:per.eie at online.no] Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 2:14 PM To: Jensen-Cars Subject: [Jensen-cars] OFF: Anybody in Anaheim, California All, if anybody live near The vault classic cars on Central Park Ave, could they drop by and look at a car for me? Per _______________________________________________________________________ Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe info at: . From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed May 20 18:56:55 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 20:56:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF 5/16 x 22 References: Message-ID: Richard, I have been away for a few days - try these guys http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc or http://www.walridge.com/section/view/?fnode=4 For Waldridge, you will have to download their catalogue - but they have a good range of BSF, BSW and CEI threads, as well as some BA. I have dealt with both firms and they are good - Walbridge is pretty fast on their orders. cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "richard mayor" > Hello Listmates, I am in need of one 5/16" x 22 British Standard Fine > (BSF) > nut. Can anyone help me? > > Richard Mayor From jmnewt at comcast.net Wed May 20 19:11:28 2009 From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 19:11:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Stick Tube Message-ID: Anyone know what thread size and count is on the small tube which guides the dipstick into the block. During a recent engine rebuild I discovered some pretty mangled threads on mine to the extent that I can't get a good count. TIA, Jack From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Wed May 20 19:11:44 2009 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:11:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <518286.12072.qm@web53008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Rick, Yes Road and Track wrote that all Healeys had scuttle shake, otherwise known as the Healey hobble. Our chassis is 3X4 " 1/8 wall thickness structural tube unlike the original stamped sheet steel constructed tube which was 16 gauge steel. Our chassis is stronger. On our web site the differences are explained in detail. There is also an article written by Donald Healey discussing the importance of rigidity. Healey knew what was needed unfortunaltely the demands of the bean counters may have influenced some of his decisions. My 100-4 V12 producing over 650 horsepower with 12" wide tires on the rear on our Jule Chassis utilizing stock suspension excluding the rack and pinion steering has no scuttle shake and no drive train vibrations. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Tue, 5/19/09, HealeyRick wrote: From: HealeyRick Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com, "Martin Jansen" Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Received: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 7:56 PM Marty, I'm a little confused. The February 1965 Road & Track review of the BJ8, states "The ride is firm and there is some chassis flexing evident from the authentic cowl shake which occurs on any but the smoothest surfaces.", which makes me think that some, if not all the BJ8s and BJ7s had some degree of scuttle shake when new. Your website seems to indicate your chassis is pretty close to identical with the original. Yet you seem to be able to eliminate scuttle shake. Not trying to be a wiseguy, here, just trying to understand, How do you do it? Rick --- On Tue, 5/19/09, Martin Jansen wrote: From: Martin Jansen Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 6:47 PM Hi John, I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I know that Healeys are not pre-war . None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or balance drums. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Wed May 20 19:12:14 2009 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:12:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <903498.45526.qm@web53002.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Rick, Yes Road and Track wrote that all Healeys had scuttle shake, otherwise known as the Healey hobble. Our chassis is 3X4 " 1/8 wall thickness structural tube unlike the original stamped sheet steel constructed tube which was 16 gauge steel. Our chassis is stronger. On our web site the differences are explained in detail. There is also an article written by Donald Healey discussing the importance of rigidity. Healey knew what was needed unfortunaltely the demands of the bean counters may have influenced some of his decisions. My 100-4 V12 producing over 650 horsepower with 12" wide tires on the rear on our Jule Chassis utilizing stock suspension excluding the rack and pinion steering has no scuttle shake and no drive train vibrations. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Tue, 5/19/09, HealeyRick wrote: From: HealeyRick Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com, "Martin Jansen" Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Received: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 7:56 PM Marty, I'm a little confused. The February 1965 Road & Track review of the BJ8, states "The ride is firm and there is some chassis flexing evident from the authentic cowl shake which occurs on any but the smoothest surfaces.", which makes me think that some, if not all the BJ8s and BJ7s had some degree of scuttle shake when new. Your website seems to indicate your chassis is pretty close to identical with the original. Yet you seem to be able to eliminate scuttle shake. Not trying to be a wiseguy, here, just trying to understand, How do you do it? Rick --- On Tue, 5/19/09, Martin Jansen wrote: From: Martin Jansen Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 6:47 PM Hi John, I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I know that Healeys are not pre-war . None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or balance drums. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com Wed May 20 19:12:15 2009 From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:12:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] schuttle shake Message-ID: <783074.48801.qm@web53006.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Rick, Yes Road and Track wrote that all Healeys had scuttle shake, otherwise known as the Healey hobble. Our chassis is 3X4 " 1/8 wall thickness structural tube unlike the original stamped sheet steel constructed tube which was 16 gauge steel. Our chassis is stronger. On our web site the differences are explained in detail. There is also an article written by Donald Healey discussing the importance of rigidity. Healey knew what was needed unfortunaltely the demands of the bean counters may have influenced some of his decisions. My 100-4 V12 producing over 650 horsepower with 12" wide tires on the rear on our Jule Chassis utilizing stock suspension excluding the rack and pinion steering has no scuttle shake and no drive train vibrations. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- On Tue, 5/19/09, HealeyRick wrote: From: HealeyRick Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com, "Martin Jansen" Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Received: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 7:56 PM Marty, I'm a little confused. The February 1965 Road & Track review of the BJ8, states "The ride is firm and there is some chassis flexing evident from the authentic cowl shake which occurs on any but the smoothest surfaces.", which makes me think that some, if not all the BJ8s and BJ7s had some degree of scuttle shake when new. Your website seems to indicate your chassis is pretty close to identical with the original. Yet you seem to be able to eliminate scuttle shake. Not trying to be a wiseguy, here, just trying to understand, How do you do it? Rick --- On Tue, 5/19/09, Martin Jansen wrote: From: Martin Jansen Subject: Re: [Healeys] schuttle shake To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 6:47 PM Hi John, I suggest you check your chassis. We have repaired over 400 cars with this problem and the source of the problem is the chassis. Welding 3/4" angle iron in the dog house does nothing. If you look at later BJ8s , they have a larger webbing in this area in an attempt to fix the problem however it did nothing. The scuttle shake is the movement of both rails, changing the steering geometry to toe in and out rapidly. This was common on many pre-war cars. I know that Healeys are not pre-war . None of the cars with our new JULE chassis experience the skuttle shake. We use the same wheels and tires as everyone else. We do not shave tires or balance drums. Happy Healeying, Marty www.jule-enterprises.com --- Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Wed May 20 19:35:45 2009 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 21:35:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake squeal Message-ID: Installed new Moss brake pads. Reused the old shims, which appeared to be perfect. First time I drove, they brake sang like a bird. Real loud and scary! Any suggestions on quieting them down. _________________________________________________________________ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_QuickAdd1_052009 From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Wed May 20 20:16:50 2009 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 19:16:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Stick Tube References: Message-ID: <9D36FE98D2574D37BFA6186C5F2CD2AC@FRED> The tube for the dip stick is not screwed in. It is pressed in. Just pick drill bit that is a snug fit inside the tube. Push it in, grip the tube w/ a vice-grip pliers, and whack the pliers w/ a hammer. The tube will pop right out. At least this is true for 3000 engines. John Snyder > Anyone know what thread size and count is on the small tube which guides > the > dipstick into the block. During a recent engine rebuild I discovered > some > pretty mangled threads on mine to the extent that I can't get a good > count. > TIA, Jack From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed May 20 20:28:18 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 02:28:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Stick Tube Message-ID: Yup, thought I had overfilled my BN7 then discovered the tube was missing. Norm Nock fixed us up, "drove it in" (no threads) and problem solved. Quarts equaled what the manual stated. Richard of KY BN7 #440 ------Original Message------ From: John Snyder To: jmnewt at comcast.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Stick Tube Sent: May 20, 2009 21:16 The tube for the dip stick is not screwed in. It is pressed in. Just pick drill bit that is a snug fit inside the tube. Push it in, grip the tube w/ a vice-grip pliers, and whack the pliers w/ a hammer. The tube will pop right out. At least this is true for 3000 engines. John Snyder > Anyone know what thread size and count is on the small tube which guides > the > dipstick into the block. During a recent engine rebuild I discovered > some > pretty mangled threads on mine to the extent that I can't get a good > count. > TIA, Jack _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu May 21 00:15:45 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 06:15:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?brake_squeal?= Message-ID: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> leanord, you are not the only one. recently put rebuilt calipers with new moss pads on a bj8 and the owner says they really squeal. will have to find some softer ones to replace them. hjim From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 21 02:47:15 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 10:47:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brake squeal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A151513.90406@chello.nl> Did you apply some copper/aluminium grease on the shims, both calliper and pad side, and some on the sliding surfaces of the calliper? This may reduce the squealing considerably. Bedding in may help after a while. Did you check if the dimensions of the pads were OK? I found that in some cases you have to slightly file/sand down the sides of the metal backing plate, no matter what make. Sanding/filing the leading edge of the brake pads at 45: may help as well. Which make/type pad did you fit? Kees Oudesluijs NL Leonard Berkowitz schreef: > Installed new Moss brake pads. Reused the old shims, which appeared to be > perfect. First time I drove, they brake sang like a bird. Real loud and > scary! Any suggestions on quieting them down. > _________________________________________________________________ > Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria > l_QuickAdd1_052009 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 21 03:18:28 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 11:18:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake squeal In-Reply-To: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4A151C64.20206@chello.nl> I do not think it is a question of hardness only. What make are the Moss pads? Some of the Mintex/Don/Girling/Lockheed pads (often from the same manufacturer I believe) used to have peculiar habits, e.g. a strongly changing friction cokfficient or squealing. I have always had good results using replacement pads from Jurid, Textar, Ferodo, EBC Greenstuf. Tried the Don, Lockheed, Mintex and Girling ones but did not always like them. Some of the pads were OK, others were not. If possible I prefer to get OE pads, but they are usually only available as NOS and not always asbestos free. This was on a varyity of cars. Kees Oudesluijs NL healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef: > leanord, you are not the only one. recently put rebuilt calipers with new moss pads on a bj8 and the owner says they really squeal. will have to find some softer ones to replace them. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From bj7ah at acanac.net Thu May 21 05:53:25 2009 From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 07:53:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake squeal References: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Anti Squeal shims worked well for me to stop the Squeal. Made my own out of stainless steel. Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 2:15 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] brake squeal > leanord, you are not the only one. recently put rebuilt calipers with new > moss pads on a bj8 and the owner says they really squeal. will have to > find some softer ones to replace them. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 06:01:46 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 05:01:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake squeal In-Reply-To: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4A1542AA.5000801@comcast.net> Which pads are causing the problem (Moss sells three types, I think: semi-metallic, ceramic and kevlar)? bs healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > leanord, you are not the only one. recently put rebuilt calipers with new moss pads on a bj8 and the owner says they really squeal. will have to find some softer ones to replace them. hjim ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From wsthompson at thicko.com Thu May 21 07:25:45 2009 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 08:25:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SOS shop move Message-ID: <000001c9da17$aa624640$ff26d2c0$@com> The move has commenced, as I've been shuttling stuff every day, but clearly I 'm going to need a LOT of help. A couple guys might be up this Sat. More would be good. please confirm if you're available. After that, every weekend will be shop moving efforts until the end of June, so, if you can help, please let me know. For those of you that don't know, I'm in WI, an hour north of Milwaukee. Thanks. WST From price at advocateadvisors.com Thu May 21 08:06:27 2009 From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 09:06:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] brake squeal In-Reply-To: <4A1542AA.5000801@comcast.net> References: <20090521061545.21499.qmail@server278.com> <4A1542AA.5000801@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E1A7515@SERVER.acrea.local> Of these tree types, is one less likely to squeal than the others? Price Lindsay Executive Vice President & Chief Operating Officer -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:02 AM To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake squeal Which pads are causing the problem (Moss sells three types, I think: semi-metallic, ceramic and kevlar)? bs healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: > leanord, you are not the only one. recently put rebuilt calipers with new moss pads on a bj8 and the owner says they really squeal. will have to find some softer ones to replace them. hjim ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as price at advocateadvisors.com http://www.team.net/archive From pennell at cox.net Thu May 21 15:02:34 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:02:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake squeal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090521170234.PWAHU.30924.imail@eastrmwml48> Leonard, I would not panic yet. Give the pads some time to bed in. I do agree with the suggestion of the special grease for the back side of the pads though. Keith Pennell ---- Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > Installed new Moss brake pads. Reused the old shims, which appeared to be > perfect. First time I drove, they brake sang like a bird. Real loud and > scary! Any suggestions on quieting them down. From ampole at hotmail.com Thu May 21 15:16:02 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 21:16:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site Message-ID: Guys For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's and most pages updated. www.austin-healey3000.com I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few days. Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) and we can see if she moves. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu May 21 15:49:40 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:49:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c9da5e$0bbb3910$2331ab30$@net> Very nice, Andy and aI have a link to your site from mine on the Important Links page, Restoration section. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 5:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site Guys For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's and most pages updated. www.austin-healey3000.com I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few days. Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) and we can see if she moves. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu May 21 16:27:36 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:27:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Inventory sell Off In-Reply-To: <000001c9da17$aa624640$ff26d2c0$@com> References: <000001c9da17$aa624640$ff26d2c0$@com> Message-ID: <7CF89C9C1DF9422FB18D839C1E7997A7@michael> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=594 Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Thu May 21 16:59:39 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 15:59:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Gary Brierton and Road & Track Message-ID: <977831.57594.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In my post on the scuttle shake issue, I mentioned a February 1965 test in Road & Track. That came out of one of the best Healey reference books out there, a compilation of reprints of all the R&T Healey articles that was published by the AHCA Midwest Region in the late '70s and sold for the outrageous price of $5. When I went to put the book away, I noticed on the cover, "Edited by Gary R. Brieton". A belated thanks to lister Gary, that book is great. Rick From Warthodson at aol.com Thu May 21 17:05:20 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 19:05:20 EDT Subject: [Healeys] HS6 Carb overflow tubes Message-ID: Are these tubes & springs available some where? Gary In a message dated 5/18/2009 7:33:49 A.M. Central Daylight Time, tomleavy at comcast.net writes: My HS6 float bowls have the original elbow tubing with the spring, **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in the U.S. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu May 21 17:42:28 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:42:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day All Many thanks for that. I personally find these sites most interesting and enjoyable. I have a relatively new Austin-Healey owning friend who has bought a 3000 BT7 MkII kit from a friend of his who has a terminal illness. By kit I mean that while it's all there, it's in boxes. Does anyone know if there is a similar restoration site for the 3000 BT7 MkII? Yes I know Bill Bolton as he is a personal friend. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Friday, 22 May 2009 7:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site Guys For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's and most pages updated. www.austin-healey3000.com I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few days. Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) and we can see if she moves. cheers Andy ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 21 18:00:00 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:00:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] HS6 Carb overflow tubes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005C8F0D-44EF-41B2-A4BE-F870A2AACF5A@sbcglobal.net> Yes they are and we have some in stock David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 21, 2009, at 4:05 PM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Are these tubes & springs available some where? > Gary > > > In a message dated 5/18/2009 7:33:49 A.M. Central Daylight Time, > tomleavy at comcast.net writes: > > My HS6 float bowls have the original elbow tubing with the spring, > > **************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to > do in > the U.S. > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week? > ncid=emlcntustrav00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu May 21 18:05:40 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:05:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> References: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <000901c9da71$0b607440$22215cc0$@net> Take a look on the important Links page Restoration section of my site and you will see links to photos from Linwood Rose and Larry swift each of whom is or has restored a BT7 but I am not sure which Phase. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:42 PM To: 'andy pole'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site G'day All Many thanks for that. I personally find these sites most interesting and enjoyable. I have a relatively new Austin-Healey owning friend who has bought a 3000 BT7 MkII kit from a friend of his who has a terminal illness. By kit I mean that while it's all there, it's in boxes. Does anyone know if there is a similar restoration site for the 3000 BT7 MkII? Yes I know Bill Bolton as he is a personal friend. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Friday, 22 May 2009 7:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site Guys For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's and most pages updated. www.austin-healey3000.com I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few days. Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) and we can see if she moves. cheers Andy ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From mgtd51 at comcast.net Thu May 21 18:44:25 2009 From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:44:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <000901c9da71$0b607440$22215cc0$@net> References: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> <000901c9da71$0b607440$22215cc0$@net> Message-ID: <4A15F569.7050602@comcast.net> Mine is a Mark 1, lots more photos available. Larry Swift John Sims wrote: > Take a look on the important Links page Restoration section of my site and > you will see links to photos from Linwood Rose and Larry swift each of whom > is or has restored a BT7 but I am not sure which Phase. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick > Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:42 PM > To: 'andy pole'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site > > G'day All > > Many thanks for that. I personally find these sites most interesting and > enjoyable. > > I have a relatively new Austin-Healey owning friend who has bought a 3000 > BT7 > MkII kit from a friend of his who has a terminal illness. By kit I mean that > while it's all there, it's in boxes. > > Does anyone know if there is a similar restoration site for the 3000 BT7 > MkII? > Yes I know Bill Bolton as he is a personal friend. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of andy pole > Sent: Friday, 22 May 2009 7:16 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site > > Guys > > > > For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! > > > > There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), > windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's > and most pages updated. > > > > www.austin-healey3000.com > > > > I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few > days. > > > > Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) > and > we can see if she moves. > > > > cheers Andy > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu May 21 19:04:48 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:04:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> References: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> Message-ID: I have a freind in my club who lives nearby who is just getting ready to paint his one owner (bought by his brother) BT7--I do not know the extent to which he photodocumented his work, I believe he got it from his brother as a kit as well, he may be a lurker on the list, I can inquire if he doesn't pipe up. It is going to be a very nice car Greg Lemon From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Thu May 21 19:45:32 2009 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:45:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's Message-ID: Hello Fellow Healeyoids, I read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W 50W engine oil titled "For Collector Cars" and contained ZDDP. I've checked Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even Wal Mart but can't locate any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and if so, any suggestions where to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go with Casterol "High Mileage" 20W 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. Thanks, Steve Meyer 61 BN7 From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu May 21 20:01:36 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:01:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A160780.4030702@earthlink.net> Steve, It was in their synthetic line of oils - 20W50 Syntec. Steve wrote: > Hello Fellow Healeyoids, > I read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W 50W > engine oil titled "For Collector Cars" and contained ZDDP. I've checked > Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even Wal Mart but can't locate > any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and if so, any suggestions where > to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go with Casterol "High Mileage" 20W > 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. > > Thanks, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 21 20:24:52 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:24:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's References: Message-ID: Steve, If you want to stick to a mineral oil with lots of ZZDP (according to the label and website - I can't detect the taste myself), I recommend Castrol VR-1. This is labeled as a racing oil but if you read the bottle and the info on the Valvoline site, it clearly indicates that is it also formulated for street use and has added ZZDP for older designs of engine. It can also be difficult to find - try the local yellow pages for a supplier of lubricants and oils - I buy mine from the company that distributes to retail outlets. Probably any Valvoline supplier can order it for you. There was a long exchange on the List about oils sometime last year and everyone has their own favourite brand and opinion on the subject - in the end you will have to read the opinions and company web sites and decide yourself. Also look at Brad Penn oils - I have never used them but they were a candidate that made my short list. cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu May 21 21:21:16 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 23:21:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gary Brierton and Road & Track In-Reply-To: <977831.57594.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <977831.57594.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thank you. It was fun to put together and R & T was super cooperative. I keep my one and only copy close at hand. Wonder if I should try and re-do it with better graphics? Wait, I think R & T already did it! GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "HealeyRick" Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 6:59 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Gary Brierton and Road & Track > In my post on the scuttle shake issue, I mentioned a February 1965 test in > Road & Track. That came out of one of the best Healey reference books out > there, a compilation of reprints of all the R&T Healey articles that was > published by the AHCA Midwest Region in the late '70s and sold for the > outrageous price of $5. When I went to put the book away, I noticed on the > cover, "Edited by Gary R. Brieton". A belated thanks to lister Gary, that > book is great. > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri May 22 03:25:16 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 02:25:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't know where you are located Steve, but VR-1 is on the shelves at the local AutoZone here in SoCal. Mike MacLean 56 Bn2 60 AN5 On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 7:24 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Steve, > > If you want to stick to a mineral oil with lots of ZZDP (according to the > label and website - I can't detect the taste myself), I recommend Castrol > VR-1. This is labeled as a racing oil but if you read the bottle and the > info on the Valvoline site, it clearly indicates that is it also formulated > for street use and has added ZZDP for older designs of engine. It can also > be difficult to find - try the local yellow pages for a supplier of > lubricants and oils - I buy mine from the company that distributes to retail > outlets. Probably any Valvoline supplier can order it for you. > > There was a long exchange on the List about oils sometime last year and > everyone has their own favourite brand and opinion on the subject - in the > end you will have to read the opinions and company web sites and decide > yourself. Also look at Brad Penn oils - I have never used them but they > were a candidate that made my short list. > > cheers, > > Mirek > 60 BT7 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" > Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From wmseverin at charter.net Fri May 22 05:51:17 2009 From: wmseverin at charter.net (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 06:51:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SOS shop move efforts Message-ID: <00f101c9dad3$9e377900$daa66b00$@net> Y'all, I have one confirmed for tomorrow, and a couple more possible. starting at 9AM. Every weekend in June is likely to be part of the plan until it's done, so, if you think you can help, please let me know. I am in central WI, an hour north of Milwaukee. Thanks. WST From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri May 22 06:24:56 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:24:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SOS shop move efforts References: <00f101c9dad3$9e377900$daa66b00$@net> Message-ID: wish I was closer - I would love to help. Hope it all goes smoothly Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" To: ; "'Healey list Forum'" ; ; Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:51 AM Subject: [Healeys] SOS shop move efforts > Y'all, > > > > I have one confirmed for tomorrow, and a couple more possible. starting at > 9AM. > > > > Every weekend in June is likely to be part of the plan until it's done, > so, > if you think you can help, please let me know. > > > > I am in central WI, an hour north of Milwaukee. > > > > Thanks. > > > > WST > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Fri May 22 06:37:00 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 05:37:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328D95@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <757E0ECCA8A249CEAC14DB28C970B557@TRACY> Look over the AHUSA club site. If what you want is missing perhaps we can fill the gaps. The website discussion forumn is a good place to make these requests via the site also. Healey.org Cheers! BTW are the Aussies coming out to Monterey in Aug again? I hear Steve Pike might be headed out to support the S's. The offer on the came site still stands. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 4:42 PM To: 'andy pole'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site G'day All Many thanks for that. I personally find these sites most interesting and enjoyable. I have a relatively new Austin-Healey owning friend who has bought a 3000 BT7 MkII kit from a friend of his who has a terminal illness. By kit I mean that while it's all there, it's in boxes. Does anyone know if there is a similar restoration site for the 3000 BT7 MkII? Yes I know Bill Bolton as he is a personal friend. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Friday, 22 May 2009 7:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site Guys For anyone interested I have updated my website, now she's running! There are a few new pages, showing the engine going in (with shroud), windscreen being dismantled, sports exhaust, engine bay, a couple of video's and most pages updated. www.austin-healey3000.com I will update the photo galleries with all the added work over the next few days. Now just need another throttle pedal and the gear stick (chromework away) and we can see if she moves. cheers Andy ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net http://www.team.net/archive From scvc70 at epix.net Fri May 22 07:17:28 2009 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:17:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site References: <757E0ECCA8A249CEAC14DB28C970B557@TRACY> Message-ID: <578A4043B0D04126BBBB3AA3FCC9754B@S0026273562> Tracy -- Ever since I joined this list, I assumed that your closing "Gang Warily!" was merely prudent advice (in proper Scots phrasing) to any vintage British car owner. While browsing through a book on Scottish heraldry the other day, I discovered that "Gang Warily!" is, in fact, the motto of the Drummond clan. How amazing that it should still be so appropriate after all these years! Happy Healeying-- Sarah Carr ("Kerr," several centuries ago) BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "'Quinn, Patrick'" ; "'andy pole'" ; Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site > Look over the AHUSA club site. If what you want is missing perhaps we can > fill the gaps. The website discussion forumn is a good place to make > these > requests via the site also. Healey.org > > Cheers! BTW are the Aussies coming out to Monterey in Aug again? I hear > Steve Pike might be headed out to support the S's. The offer on the came > site still stands. > > Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! > President AHCUSA www.healey.org From medlabinc at msn.com Fri May 22 09:34:05 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:34:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground Message-ID: Yes. And some good wood blocking put in place after the car is on jack stands - before you start your work. A local guy here was crushed under a car just this past week. He was found deceased. That is two I know of now. And that my friend will spoil your whole day. Dick M / Bj8 Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground A secure hydraulic jack to get the car up on sturdy jack stands on solid level ground and a creeper to slide around on. I can think of at least one highly rated shop that uses nothing more than this. Best JK --- On Sun, 5/10/09, PhilRitten at aol.com > wrote: > From: PhilRitten at aol.com > > Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 1:59 PM > I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to > work on it, but > I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual > ones from car > stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the > tail pipes). Does anyone > have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air > far enough to be > able to get under it? > > Thanks, > Phil From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri May 22 09:42:25 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:42:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <578A4043B0D04126BBBB3AA3FCC9754B@S0026273562> References: <757E0ECCA8A249CEAC14DB28C970B557@TRACY> <578A4043B0D04126BBBB3AA3FCC9754B@S0026273562> Message-ID: <471534970905220842qe05c691n3d26e84bc2ff98fc@mail.gmail.com> Well, that goes well with the base Kerr Motto: Sero Sed Serio "Late but in earnest" Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Fri May 22 10:10:45 2009 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 11:10:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00bf01c9daf7$dd8c8180$98a58480$@co@tx.rr.com> I have found that when raising my BJ8 with a floor jack, the rear must be lifted first, then the front. Vice versa coming back down. If done in the other order, the floor jack will not clear the rear valance. Coming down, the interference can cause damage. Anyone else have this issue? Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open Roads Car - headed to the Pikes Peak Hillclimb soon! From bighealey at charter.net Fri May 22 10:30:59 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:30:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: <578A4043B0D04126BBBB3AA3FCC9754B@S0026273562> Message-ID: Sarah, Ah yes! It had two meanings really. Go carefully (the way I use it) I have the crest with motto on my Healey badge bar. It also means gang up against the Drummond's with caution, likely a warning to other clans to expect retaliation if they gang up against the Drummonds. The Drummond clan is also the inventors of a device called a Cal-Trap (Calvary trap) a steel spiked device tossed in the path of on coming horseman. Perhaps I should modify the Healey with a James Bond DB4 type device that dumps giant tacks and nails behind the car while being chased. I always wanted some machine guns like 007 had to take out cars ahead. That probably would be frowned upon by track stewards and tour organizers though. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 6:17 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site Tracy -- Ever since I joined this list, I assumed that your closing "Gang Warily!" was merely prudent advice (in proper Scots phrasing) to any vintage British car owner. While browsing through a book on Scottish heraldry the other day, I discovered that "Gang Warily!" is, in fact, the motto of the Drummond clan. How amazing that it should still be so appropriate after all these years! Happy Healeying-- Sarah Carr ("Kerr," several centuries ago) BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "'Quinn, Patrick'" ; "'andy pole'" ; Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site > Look over the AHUSA club site. If what you want is missing perhaps we can > fill the gaps. The website discussion forumn is a good place to make > these > requests via the site also. Healey.org > > Cheers! BTW are the Aussies coming out to Monterey in Aug again? I hear > Steve Pike might be headed out to support the S's. The offer on the came > site still stands. > > Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! > President AHCUSA www.healey.org Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 22 10:44:32 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:44:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <00bf01c9daf7$dd8c8180$98a58480$@co@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: <1327238941.10808191243010672694.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I lift the front first, then put the floor jack under the diff from the driver side (L/H drive car) in front of the right rear wheel. Reverse procedure to lower. bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "rjhco" To: "Dick Matson" , "AustinHealey List" Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 9:10:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground I have found that when raising my BJ8 with a floor jack, the rear must be lifted first, then the front. Vice versa coming back down. If done in the other order, the floor jack will not clear the rear valance. Coming down, the interference can cause damage. Anyone else have this issue? Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open Roads Car - headed to the Pikes Peak Hillclimb soon! _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 22 10:46:53 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 12:46:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground In-Reply-To: <00bf01c9daf7$dd8c8180$98a58480$@co@tx.rr.com> References: <00bf01c9daf7$dd8c8180$98a58480$@co@tx.rr.com> Message-ID: <008b01c9dafc$e94a3c60$bbdeb520$@rr.com> When jacking the rear, I usually put my floor jack or scissors jack under the horizontal projection of the frame behind the rear wheels (padded with a piece of 2 x 4, of course). I can do this even with the front already raised. When jacking the front, I have to use a scissors jack under one spring pan (padded with a piece of 2 x 4, of course) to jack the car high enough to get the floor jack (padded, etc.) under the front crossmember. Good luck with the Hillclimb, Jim. I had the pleasure of climbing Pikes Peak in my BJ8 in company with Michael Oritt and Peter and Ann Hunt, although at a rather leisurely pace. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rjhco Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 12:11 PM To: 'Dick Matson'; 'AustinHealey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground I have found that when raising my BJ8 with a floor jack, the rear must be lifted first, then the front. Vice versa coming back down. If done in the other order, the floor jack will not clear the rear valance. Coming down, the interference can cause damage. Anyone else have this issue? Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open Roads Car - headed to the Pikes Peak Hillclimb soon! From rnbmail at yahoo.com Fri May 22 11:54:19 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 10:54:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's Message-ID: <528641.8859.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Steve, Suggest you go with Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 - ZDDP is marked right on the bottle. Easy to buy. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Thu, 5/21/09, Bob Haskell wrote: > From: Bob Haskell > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > To: "Steve" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009, 7:01 PM > Steve, > > It was in their synthetic line of oils - 20W50 Syntec. > > Steve wrote: > > Hello Fellow Healeyoids, > > I > read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W 50W > > engine oil titled "For Collector Cars" and contained > ZDDP. I've checked > > Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even Wal Mart > but can't locate > > any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and if > so, any suggestions where > > to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go with > Casterol "High Mileage" 20W > > 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. > > Thanks, > > Steve Meyer > > 61 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From kags at shaw.ca Fri May 22 12:29:55 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 11:29:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Hoses --- Message-ID: Fellow Listers: Anyone happen to know the correct lengths of the flexible hydraulic hoses on a BJ8? (earlier sixes should be the same). I have a bunch lying around and I'm trying to figure out what their applications are. (TR6 hoses are pretty close as I recall). This would include the 2 front calliper hoses, the rear axle hose, as well as the clutch slave hose. Thanks in advance. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 From jobu53 at hotmail.com Fri May 22 13:17:27 2009 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 12:17:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's In-Reply-To: <528641.8859.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <528641.8859.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I also had a hard time finding Valvoline VR1. I contacted Valvoline and they told me that Napa was their biggest distributor. I finally found some at a store but had to ask for it since it was not on display. > Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 10:54:19 -0700 > From: rnbmail at yahoo.com > To: rchaskell at earthlink.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > Steve, Suggest you go with Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 - ZDDP is marked right > on the bottle. Easy to buy. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > > --- On Thu, 5/21/09, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > From: Bob Haskell > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > To: "Steve" > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009, 7:01 PM > > Steve, > > > > It was in their synthetic line of oils - 20W50 Syntec. > > > > Steve wrote: > > > Hello Fellow Healeyoids, > > > I > > read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W 50W > > > engine oil titled "For Collector Cars" and contained > > ZDDP. I've checked > > > Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even Wal Mart > > but can't locate > > > any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and if > > so, any suggestions where > > > to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go with > > Casterol "High Mileage" 20W > > > 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. > > > Thanks, > > > Steve Meyer > > > 61 BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 From mlempert at bellsouth.net Fri May 22 13:36:08 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:36:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's Message-ID: Valvoline VR1 Racing oil was my choice last year (or before) when we were discussing the changes to motor oil. Michael Salter had done a blog on the subject and I remember he had chosen VR1 at the time for his car. Recently, I found VR1 on the shelf at the auto parts store with a stick on label that said "Extra ZDDP for flat tappet engines" or something to that effect. HOWEVER, I noted that the API rating on the reverse said SM; it used to say SL/SM. I no longer trust it with a SM rating. I'm going with the Brad Penn 20-50. Mike L. From mlempert at bellsouth.net Fri May 22 13:39:14 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:39:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2-Seater Hardtop References: Message-ID: <64E23A51A30D42BB8B8ABBE51E500A1D@DadsPC> Can anyone advise on recent prices for a two-seater hardtop? I have been slowly coming to the conclusion that I will probably never use mine and am considering its sale. Thanks much. Mike L. From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Fri May 22 14:05:06 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 13:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am a Brad-Penn guy with my BN7 Richard of KY BN7 #440 > From: mlempert at bellsouth.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:36:08 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > Valvoline VR1 Racing oil was my choice last year (or before) when we were > discussing the changes to motor oil. Michael Salter had done a blog on the > subject and I remember he had chosen VR1 at the time for his car. > > Recently, I found VR1 on the shelf at the auto parts store with a stick on > label that said "Extra ZDDP for flat tappet engines" or something to that > effect. HOWEVER, I noted that the API rating on the reverse said SM; it used > to say SL/SM. I no longer trust it with a SM rating. I'm going with the Brad > Penn 20-50. > > Mike L. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 22 14:12:08 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 22:12:08 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Deze advertentie mag u niet missen! Message-ID: <20090522201208.34C3E84052@marktplaats.nl> Beste Mike Lempert, Kees Oudesluijs wil u graag op de hoogte brengen van een advertentie op Marktplaats.nl. Bekijk de advertentie door op de onderstaande link te klikken. http://auto-diversen.marktplaats.nl/onderdelen-oldtimers/245632141-austin-healey-hardtop.html Loopt de link niet geheel door? Kopieer dan de twee delen naar de adresbalk in uw browser. Commentaar van: Kees Oudesluijs --- Have a look at this. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs --- Echt bijna alles is te koop op Marktplaats.nl. Zoek hier naar vergelijkbare producten via de onderstaande link. http://kopen.marktplaats.nl/search.php?q=Austin-Healey+Hardtop Met vriendelijke groet, Het Marktplaats team. http://www.marktplaats.nl From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri May 22 15:13:27 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 17:13:27 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Power Brake booster Message-ID: What is the name and number of the company that rebuilds power brake boosters (Power Brake Exchange?) We have a local club member looking for the information. How much to exchange boosters? Thanks, Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Stay connected and tighten your budget with a great mobile device for under $50. Take a Peek! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100122638x1221845911x1201401556/aol?redir=http://www.getpeek.com/aol) From rnbmail at yahoo.com Fri May 22 15:19:22 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 14:19:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's Message-ID: <958415.8390.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In CA Kragan has it. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com B --- On Fri, 5/22/09, Dan wrote: > From: Dan > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > To: rnbmail at yahoo.com, rchaskell at earthlink.net > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, May 22, 2009, 12:17 PM > > > > #yiv714986903 .hmmessage P > { > margin:0px;padding:0px;} > #yiv714986903 { > font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;} > > > > I also had a hard time finding Valvoline VR1. > IB contacted Valvoline and they told me that Napa was > their biggest distributor. I finally found some at a store > but had to ask for it since it was not on display. > B > > Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 10:54:19 -0700 > > From: rnbmail at yahoo.com > > To: rchaskell at earthlink.net > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > > > Steve, Suggest you go with Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 > - ZDDP is marked right > > on the bottle. Easy to buy. > > > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > > > > > > > --- On Thu, 5/21/09, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > > > From: Bob Haskell > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > > To: "Steve" > > > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > > Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009, 7:01 PM > > > Steve, > > > > > > It was in their synthetic line of oils - 20W50 > Syntec. > > > > > > Steve wrote: > > > > Hello Fellow Healeyoids, > > > > I > > > read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W > 50W > > > > engine oil titled "For Collector > Cars" and contained > > > ZDDP. I've checked > > > > Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even > Wal Mart > > > but can't locate > > > > any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and > if > > > so, any suggestions where > > > > to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go > with > > > Casterol "High Mileage" 20W > > > > 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Steve Meyer > > > > 61 BN7 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > > > You are subscribed as > rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > Windows Liveb": Keep your life in sync. Check > it out. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri May 22 16:03:27 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 18:03:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Power Brake booster References: Message-ID: <580B09C7AE1945228E1D64A6BBBAE5C7@ophrdc.org> I have used John Stuart Power Brake in Stoney Creek, Ontario for many years. They do a full rebuild of the original Girling servo unit and guarantee it for one full year. I've never had a bad one from them yet. They ship all over North America daily. They do quality resleeving etc. as well. Here's their web site. http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/Automotive.page Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: [Healeys] Power Brake booster > What is the name and number of the company that rebuilds power brake > boosters (Power Brake Exchange?) > > We have a local club member looking for the information. > > How much to exchange boosters? > > Thanks, > > Jim Werner > Louisville, KY From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri May 22 16:35:29 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:35:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Updated web site In-Reply-To: References: <578A4043B0D04126BBBB3AA3FCC9754B@S0026273562> Message-ID: G'day Tracy The Viet Cong used a very effective Cal-Trap type device in Vietnam War that was set just under leaves or the ground and then the unaware soldier would step on it with the spikes going through the shoe into the foot. That's why a steel plate was eventually built into the sole and heel of each boot. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Saturday, 23 May 2009 2:31 AM To: 'Carr&Edwards'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site Sarah, Ah yes! It had two meanings really. Go carefully (the way I use it) I have the crest with motto on my Healey badge bar. It also means gang up against the Drummond's with caution, likely a warning to other clans to expect retaliation if they gang up against the Drummonds. The Drummond clan is also the inventors of a device called a Cal-Trap (Calvary trap) a steel spiked device tossed in the path of on coming horseman. Perhaps I should modify the Healey with a James Bond DB4 type device that dumps giant tacks and nails behind the car while being chased. I always wanted some machine guns like 007 had to take out cars ahead. That probably would be frowned upon by track stewards and tour organizers though. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 6:17 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Updated web site Tracy -- Ever since I joined this list, I assumed that your closing "Gang Warily!" was merely prudent advice (in proper Scots phrasing) to any vintage British car owner. While browsing through a book on Scottish heraldry the other day, I discovered that "Gang Warily!" is, in fact, the motto of the Drummond clan. How amazing that it should still be so appropriate after all these years! Happy Healeying-- Sarah Carr ("Kerr," several centuries ago) BN1 in PA From shop at justbrits.com Fri May 22 16:37:58 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 17:37:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Gents, I have said this before but I guess it 'needs' repeating: <> Just use standard Castrol GTX 20/50 and add EITHER a pint of Lucas Oil Additive OR GM's EOS Assembly Lube. For the Lucas Oil one, use the entire pint (been using it for 2 years in my '70 350cid El Camino - daily driver). For EOS, I use 1/2 the bottle. I keep a couple on hand in case I run out of Lucas which is what I generally use for customers' cars. K.I.S.S. !!! & inexpensive!! Ed From MANDMSCHNEIDER at COMCAST.NET Fri May 22 17:19:30 2009 From: MANDMSCHNEIDER at COMCAST.NET (Mark Schneider) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:19:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid Message-ID: <3F462E52-0397-452A-B83A-789CD818A31F@COMCAST.NET> Listers, As I began a project of replacing the hydraulic fluid in my Healey brakes and clutch I found I had one old unopened bottle of Castrol DOT3/4 brake fluid on the shelf. I went to the local auto parts store to buy another bottle or two but found all they had was labelled "synthetic" . I have not converted my car systems to synthetic brake fluid as I understood that the synthetic fluids will cause deterioration of o-rings or any rubber goods in the hydraulic system. The parts store guy told me that the Castrol synthetic is not silicon based and is therefore compatible with the older Castrol formulation and with our old Brit car hydraulic systems. Can anyone verify this for me? Marks 3 1966 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 22 17:45:36 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 19:45:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <3F462E52-0397-452A-B83A-789CD818A31F@COMCAST.NET> References: <3F462E52-0397-452A-B83A-789CD818A31F@COMCAST.NET> Message-ID: <00a201c9db37$67fdf2b0$37f9d810$@net> It is my understanding that all brake fluid is synthetic and has been for a long time including LMA. Castrol is just apparently using truth in labeling. You may be cons=fusing DOT 3/4 with DOT 5 which are two different types. DOT 5 is silicone while DOT 3.4 is not. I believe that other list memembers will state that you have always been using synthetic fluid even though it was not implicitly stated on the packaging. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Schneider Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid Listers, As I began a project of replacing the hydraulic fluid in my Healey brakes and clutch I found I had one old unopened bottle of Castrol DOT3/4 brake fluid on the shelf. I went to the local auto parts store to buy another bottle or two but found all they had was labelled "synthetic" . I have not converted my car systems to synthetic brake fluid as I understood that the synthetic fluids will cause deterioration of o-rings or any rubber goods in the hydraulic system. The parts store guy told me that the Castrol synthetic is not silicon based and is therefore compatible with the older Castrol formulation and with our old Brit car hydraulic systems. Can anyone verify this for me? From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Fri May 22 18:25:33 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:25:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Slave Bleeder Mod Message-ID: <001701c9db3c$fd4a1060$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Speaking of hydraulic lines. Anyone thinking of the clutch slave bleeder extension mod on the early roadsters, expect to remove the trany tunnel and vertical panel to make the install go properly. Its very difficult to get to the trany attachment point and the slave unit itself with these panels still in place. With the trany cover off, its a breeze. I had it bled out by myself in 10 minutes. Great mod and long over due I'm sure. Those that are doing ground ups, you need this mod. Mark From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 22 19:15:08 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 21:15:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Slave Bleeder Mod In-Reply-To: <001701c9db3c$fd4a1060$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <001701c9db3c$fd4a1060$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <00ac01c9db43$e9f689b0$bde39d10$@net> Go to http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html for the latest price list. Greatest thing since sliced bread. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:26 PM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Slave Bleeder Mod Speaking of hydraulic lines. Anyone thinking of the clutch slave bleeder extension mod on the early roadsters, expect to remove the trany tunnel and vertical panel to make the install go properly. Its very difficult to get to the trany attachment point and the slave unit itself with these panels still in place. With the trany cover off, its a breeze. I had it bled out by myself in 10 minutes. Great mod and long over due I'm sure. Those that are doing ground ups, you need this mod. Mark From csooch1 at aol.com Fri May 22 19:24:11 2009 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:24:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's Message-ID: FYI, if you folks want to buy oil locally, you have several readily available options. Rotella 5W40 synthetic is very high in Zinc, and will most likely be what I use in my Healey once I get it back on the road. If you have to have a 20W50 oil, Mobil 1 V-Twin Synthetic has a higher Zinc level than even Rotella Synthetic or Mobil 1 Delvac. You can get Mobil 1 V-Twin pretty much anywhere. Also, before you have sticker shock at the $6 per quart price, ask yourself how many times you change oil per year in your Healey and whether the price really matters? I had to pay $16 per liter for one of my cars to stay in warranty until something better and cheaper had been tested. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 2:17 PM To: rnbmail at yahoo.com; rchaskell at earthlink.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's I also had a hard time finding Valvoline VR1. I contacted Valvoline and they told me that Napa was their biggest distributor. I finally found some at a store but had to ask for it since it was not on display. > Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 10:54:19 -0700 > From: rnbmail at yahoo.com > To: rchaskell at earthlink.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > Steve, Suggest you go with Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 - ZDDP is marked right > on the bottle. Easy to buy. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com > > > > > --- On Thu, 5/21/09, Bob Haskell wrote: > > > From: Bob Haskell > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil For Healey's > > To: "Steve" > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009, 7:01 PM Steve, > > > > It was in their synthetic line of oils - 20W50 Syntec. > > > > Steve wrote: > > > Hello Fellow Healeyoids, > > > I > > read some time ago that Casterol was making a 20W 50W > > > engine oil titled "For Collector Cars" and contained > > ZDDP. I've checked > > > Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys and even Wal Mart > > but can't locate > > > any. Has anyone seen it on the shelves and if > > so, any suggestions where > > > to find it? Otherwise, I'm going to go with > > Casterol "High Mileage" 20W > > > 50W which I hope has enough viscosity. > > > Thanks, > > > Steve Meyer > > > 61 BN7 From glwilkie at bigpond.com Fri May 22 22:30:40 2009 From: glwilkie at bigpond.com (Graham and Lorraine Wilkie) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 14:30:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Hoses --- In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A177BF0.7040004@bigpond.com> Hi Earl, Assuming that Moss sent me the correct BJ8 hydraulic flexible hoses (these are new and not yet installed), their lengths are as follows: 2 front brake flexible hoses (each): 13 1/8" (333mm). Rear (axle) brake flexible hose: 12 9/16" (320mm). Clutch flexible hose: 9 3/4" (248mm). I hope that helps you figure out what you have there. Cheers, Graham Wilkie. HBJ8L / 32382 Earl Kagna wrote: > Fellow Listers: > > Anyone happen to know the correct lengths of the flexible hydraulic hoses on > a BJ8? (earlier sixes should be the same). I have a bunch lying around and > I'm trying to figure out what their applications are. (TR6 hoses are pretty > close as I recall). This would include the 2 front calliper hoses, the rear > axle hose, as well as the clutch slave hose. > > Thanks in advance. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as glwilkie at bigpond.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date: 05/22/09 17:56:00 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri May 22 22:39:21 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 12:39:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Recommendations Message-ID: All - Am looking for a decent quality brake pad that doesn't fade with good use, and is good in hills. Am considering Ferodo vs EBC greenstuff. Any other suggestions? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 23 03:24:35 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:24:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A17C0D3.6020406@chello.nl> Tests in the past showed that replacements pads from Ferodo, Jurid and Textar usually have practically the same characteristics as OE pads. Replacements pads from Mintex/Don/Lockheed/Girling (all sometimes/often? from the same manufacturer) may have varying and considerably increasing friction coefficients when heated up which is not really what you want. However on other occasions they can perform perfectly well when made as OE equipment. Non of the mentioned makes showed any significant fading and all were asbestos free. I have used EBC Greenstuff to my satisfaction in average use, but I do not know how they stand up in extreme test conditions. I never heard negative reports about these. Replacement pads is a bit Wild West area. There are only a few manufacturers and they supply other brands with their products. It is not uncommon to find that e.g. Lockheed or Girling pads are made by Ferodo (printing on the pads) etc. In any case stick to well known and established brands as there are really bad ones on the market. In all cases it is important to bed in the pads carefully for at least 1000miles and avoid heavy braking during that time. As pads are inexpensive items it may be well worth experimenting a bit with several brands. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist schreef: > All - > > Am looking for a decent quality brake pad that doesn't fade with good use, > and is good in hills. > > Am considering Ferodo vs EBC greenstuff. Any other suggestions? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date: 05/22/09 17:56:00 From shop at justbrits.com Sat May 23 03:46:38 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 04:46:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <3F462E52-0397-452A-B83A-789CD818A31F@COMCAST.NET> Message-ID: <> Yes, Marks 3. HUGE diff between syn & silli !! That latter will NEVER see Hortense again (nor ANY car I work on) !!!! GT/LMA IS the only product in shop (including for Camino's) I tried 'silli-crap' about 15 years ago and DUMPED it at six weeks!! Wasted those bucks!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 23 05:10:40 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 13:10:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A17D9B0.2090804@chello.nl> DOT 3-4 is the only way to go in normal applications, I agree with Ed. DOT-5 (silicone fluid), does not absorb water, so if some water contamination is present (and that will happen because of condensation), the water will usually sink to the lowest point in the lines, callipers or cilinders and cause havoc which will remain unnoticed untill to late. Also the pedal is less hard than with DOT3 or 4. DOT 5 is OK if you heat up your brakes to the extreme e.g. in racing/rallying as the boiling point is higher but you have to flush your system very frequently. Kees Oudesluijs NL Ed's Shop schreef: > <> > > Yes, Marks 3. > > HUGE diff between syn & silli !! > > That latter will NEVER see Hortense again (nor ANY > car I work on) !!!! GT/LMA IS the only product in > shop (including for Camino's) > > I tried 'silli-crap' about 15 years ago and DUMPED > it at six weeks!! > > Wasted those bucks!! > > Ed > Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2130 - Release Date: 05/23/09 07:00:00 From ah53 at yahoo.com Sat May 23 06:55:11 2009 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 05:55:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box filter Message-ID: <575069.61808.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Are those of you using the cold air box on a 100 running any sort of filter and if so what? Joe BN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and daughter From starofindy at yahoo.com Sat May 23 07:58:55 2009 From: starofindy at yahoo.com (Dave Leland) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 06:58:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Cylinder Head on eBay (6 Cylinder) In-Reply-To: <575069.61808.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <575069.61808.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <506048.54217.qm@web50612.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm listing a Moss Aluminum Cylinder Head on eBay if you're interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=320373996672 Thanks! Dave Leland '63 BJ7 Nashville, TN From bighealey at charter.net Sat May 23 08:05:13 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 07:05:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] aston cap specs Message-ID: <0E06042D56BC47CE9812010418370F65@TRACY> What experiences do folks have with Aston fuel caps? 2.5 or 2.25 inch flange? Brass flange attachment to filler neck? Threaded flange? Manufacturers? Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 23 08:23:21 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 07:23:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box filter In-Reply-To: <575069.61808.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <575069.61808.qm@web31501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A1806D9.3010702@comcast.net> I'm planning to rig a filter like this at the end of the hose and just in front of the radiator of our 100M: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RP-4980 I'm hoping I can use a typical strap-type bracket--as used to support the cold air hose--attached to an existing bolt or screw for support. Opinions from Listers welcome. Bob jomar healey wrote: > Are those of you using the cold air box on a 100 running any sort of filter and if so what? > > Joe > BN1 #923 Coronet Cream > BN2 100M > BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and daughter > _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat May 23 08:45:57 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 10:45:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <4A17D9B0.2090804@chello.nl> References: <4A17D9B0.2090804@chello.nl> Message-ID: <003501c9dbb5$304a29a0$90de7ce0$@rr.com> Kees, how there can be condensation in the brake/clutch system if it is filled, bled, and maintained as is just Standard Operating Procedure? The only air exposure would be in the ullage area of the reservoir. Any atmospheric moisture in the ullage will be absorbed by DOT 3/4, but would not be absorbed by silicone fluid. I have used silicone in my BJ8 since 1989, and have never had a problem with it. Maybe I should have, but I also have never drained/flushed/refilled the system completely during that time. On the other hand, I HAVE inadvertently spilled some on my paintwork several times and was pleased to see that it did not immediately strip the paint. Silicone or not seems to be another of those issues about which everyone has an opinion based on their own experiences. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 7:11 AM To: Ed's Shop Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid DOT 3-4 is the only way to go in normal applications, I agree with Ed. DOT-5 (silicone fluid), does not absorb water, so if some water contamination is present (and that will happen because of condensation), the water will usually sink to the lowest point in the lines, callipers or cilinders and cause havoc which will remain unnoticed untill to late. Also the pedal is less hard than with DOT3 or 4. DOT 5 is OK if you heat up your brakes to the extreme e.g. in racing/rallying as the boiling point is higher but you have to flush your system very frequently. Kees Oudesluijs NL From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 23 10:42:23 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 18:42:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <003501c9dbb5$304a29a0$90de7ce0$@rr.com> References: <4A17D9B0.2090804@chello.nl> <003501c9dbb5$304a29a0$90de7ce0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4A18276F.8060302@chello.nl> Steve, The water droplets from condensation in the fluid reservoir using DOT-5 will sink to the bottom of the reservoir and transfer further into the system. Depending on the relative humidity and temperature changes you will get water in the system. You may be lucky and live in a very dry area. With DOT 3/4 water will be absorbed by the fluid, hence the need of changing the fluid at least every 2 years as the boiling point will drop causing a possible vapour lock when braking hard and prolonged e.g. in the mountains. A friend of mine used DOT-5 in his Spitfire and rotted out a brake line (lowest point of the system) and a rear wheel cilinder and appearantly he was not the only one having these kind of problems. He probably could have prevented it by regular flushing, but he did not. We live in a damp country. I would rather prefer to loose some paint instead of brake pressure. Kees Oudesluijs NL BJ8 Healeys schreef: > Kees, how there can be condensation in the brake/clutch system if it is > filled, bled, and maintained as is just Standard Operating Procedure? The > only air exposure would be in the ullage area of the reservoir. Any > atmospheric moisture in the ullage will be absorbed by DOT 3/4, but would > not be absorbed by silicone fluid. > > I have used silicone in my BJ8 since 1989, and have never had a problem with > it. Maybe I should have, but I also have never drained/flushed/refilled the > system completely during that time. On the other hand, I HAVE inadvertently > spilled some on my paintwork several times and was pleased to see that it > did not immediately strip the paint. > > Silicone or not seems to be another of those issues about which everyone has > an opinion based on their own experiences. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From kags at shaw.ca Sat May 23 10:53:24 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 09:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Hoses --- References: <4A177BF0.7040004@bigpond.com> Message-ID: Graham: Thanks - this info helps greatly! As it now develops, we will be pulling the flexible hoses off of a friends BJ8 in the next few days - we're pretty sure that the hoses are original (believe it of not). If it turns out that there is any substantial difference in the measurements, I will post to the list. I believe from what I have here, that your measurments are correct. Thanks again, --------- Earl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham and Lorraine Wilkie" To: "Earl Kagna" ; Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Hoses --- Hi Earl, Assuming that Moss sent me the correct BJ8 hydraulic flexible hoses (these are new and not yet installed), their lengths are as follows: 2 front brake flexible hoses (each): 13 1/8" (333mm). Rear (axle) brake flexible hose: 12 9/16" (320mm). Clutch flexible hose: 9 3/4" (248mm). I hope that helps you figure out what you have there. Cheers, Graham Wilkie. HBJ8L / 32382 Earl Kagna wrote: > Fellow Listers: > > Anyone happen to know the correct lengths of the flexible hydraulic hoses > on > a BJ8? (earlier sixes should be the same). I have a bunch lying around > and > I'm trying to figure out what their applications are. (TR6 hoses are > pretty > close as I recall). This would include the 2 front calliper hoses, the > rear > axle hose, as well as the clutch slave hose. > > Thanks in advance. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat May 23 11:30:19 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 12:30:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <4A18276F.8060302@chello.nl> References: <4A17D9B0.2090804@chello.nl> <003501c9dbb5$304a29a0$90de7ce0$@rr.com> <4A18276F.8060302@chello.nl> Message-ID: I have used silicone with no problems with corrosion, leaks, spongy pedal, or problems bleeding the brakes. That being said if your concern is paint problems with spillage or leakage, if your car has been painted with a modern catalyzed urethane enamel reports I have heard and my own experience is the stuff is impercious to dot 3/4 brake fluid.. Don't know if this applies to all brands of the modern paints (I wouldn't spill a few drops on my hood just to see what it does in other words) but the brake fluid on paint issue may not be a problem if you have modern paint on your car. Greg Lemon P.S. Enjoyed the sidetrack discussion on "gang warily" one of those always wondered what it meant things, now I know.. From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat May 23 14:28:32 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 13:28:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel Message-ID: I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of the splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different years? Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go to Moss for a replacement? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 23 15:17:17 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 23:17:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1867DD.80201@chello.nl> Moto Lita states the same part number for their hub for all non-adjustable AH100-3000 steering columns so one can deduct that there are no differences in the splines during the years. -Is the steering wheel from an AH 100-3000? -Is the steering column the proper one and of the non-adjustable steering wheel type, as there may be differences between a steering shaft for adjustable and non-adjustable steering wheels? Kees Oudesluijs NL rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in > California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is > another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit > the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the > steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of the > splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no > standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different years? > Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel > hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go to > Moss for a replacement? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2130 - Release Date: 05/23/09 07:00:00 From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sat May 23 16:08:02 2009 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 18:08:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid Message-ID: Oh no, this old chestnut again! I think that Steve's experience is more the norm, but I think some people get in to trouble when they don't flush the system with alchohol (hydrascopic) before filling the system the first time. This is an important step. I too, ran silicone fluid for years with no problems. I'm currently restoring my car, and found no nasty surprizes when I dismantled the brakes and components. Strephen BJ8 From haywoodone at hotmail.com Sat May 23 16:37:49 2009 From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 18:37:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Power Brake booster In-Reply-To: <580B09C7AE1945228E1D64A6BBBAE5C7@ophrdc.org> References: <580B09C7AE1945228E1D64A6BBBAE5C7@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Jim, I used John Stuart Power Brake on Rich's recommendation and have had no problems in over 10 K miles (about 2 years). They resleeved with stainless steel, reconditioned everything, and painted it like original for around $500 US. Nice people to deal with and a quick turn around time. George Haywood '65 bj8 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Power Brake booster > > I have used John Stuart Power Brake in Stoney Creek, Ontario for many years. > They do a full rebuild of the original Girling servo unit and guarantee it > for one full year. I've never had a bad one from them yet. They ship all > over North America daily. They do quality resleeving etc. as well. > Here's their web site. http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/Automotive.page > > Rich Chrysler > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com >> What is the name and number of the company that rebuilds power brake >> boosters (Power Brake Exchange?) >> We have a local club member looking for the information. >> How much to exchange boosters? >> Thanks, >> >> Jim Werner >> Louisville, KY _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits. From haywoodone at hotmail.com Sat May 23 16:51:28 2009 From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 18:51:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test Message-ID: _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 23 19:02:02 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 18:02:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Castrol GT-LMA Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A189C8A.6010708@comcast.net> While we're on the subject ... My dad and I completely rebuilt the brake system on our BN2 when we first acquired it. Used Castrol GT-LMA as recommended. The car (mostly) sat for a few years while we prepared to restore the car. We assumed the brakes would be fine since we did a complete rebuild but lo and behold the brakes were stuck when we reassembled. We tore everything down again and found (either) hard, crusty or gelatinous residue in the cylinders. I've run DoT5 for over 20 years in my BJ8 and whenever I have to pull a cylinder they are spotless. Bob Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Oh no, this old chestnut again! > > I think that Steve's experience is more the norm, but I think some > people get in to trouble when they don't flush the system with alchohol > (hydrascopic) before filling the system the first time. This is an > important step. > I too, ran silicone fluid for years with no problems. I'm currently > restoring my car, and found no nasty surprizes when I dismantled the > brakes and components. > > Strephen BJ8 > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 23 22:19:31 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:19:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike - I can verify virtually all larger Austins of the 50s and 60s used basically the same sized spline shaft. I have my old BJ8 steering wheel on my '52 A90 to prove it (the car is being painted). I suspect your steering wheel is from a different car - with the smaller shaft probably from a smaller Austin or small production LBC of the period. Bluemel made these steering wheels for practically the entire UK car industry, that means several cars used steering wheels that looked very similar. Where did you get your steering wheel? I suspect you will have to purchase a replacement. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:28 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in > California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is > another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit > the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the > steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of > the > splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no > standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different years? > Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel > hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go to > Moss for a replacement? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat May 23 23:18:12 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 22:18:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: O.K., I guess I have a steering wheel from something other than a Healey? Rats! Spent the money on the resto for nothing. Now I will have to decide if I want to go original with one of the suppliers (AH Spares?) or a Moto Lita wheel. BTW - my steering box/shaft is BN2 later type. Great wealth of information on this list. Thanks. Mike On Sat, May 23, 2009 at 9:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mike - > > I can verify virtually all larger Austins of the 50s and 60s used basically > the same sized spline shaft. I have my old BJ8 steering wheel on my '52 A90 > to prove it (the car is being painted). > > I suspect your steering wheel is from a different car - with the smaller > shaft probably from a smaller Austin or small production LBC of the period. > > Bluemel made these steering wheels for practically the entire UK car > industry, that means several cars used steering wheels that looked very > similar. > > Where did you get your steering wheel? I suspect you will have to purchase > a replacement. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:28 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < > rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > >> I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in >> California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is >> another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit >> the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the >> steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of >> the >> splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no >> standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different >> years? >> Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel >> hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go >> to >> Moss for a replacement? >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 24 08:50:38 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 10:50:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel References: Message-ID: <39D51CAB6F9D432D9C88146A31B07C3B@ophrdc.org> Mike, Please be aware that the non adjustable but original style wheels sold new are not correct. The original non adjustable wheels have each cluster of spokes that gather very closely at the outer perimeter, while the adjustable wheels have each set of spokes spaced futher apart in a two spoke, space, two spoke arrangement like an adjustable wheel. Unfortunately with the repros I've seen, somebody decidied to give them the correct non adjustable hub, but the outer spokes spaced as per an adjustable wheel. Hard to describe, hope you can understand what I'm describing. Therefore if you want the correct original wheel, you're going to have to find an original and repair it. make sure it fits your spline first. Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel > O.K., I guess I have a steering wheel from something other than a Healey? > Rats! Spent the money on the resto for nothing. Now I will have to > decide > if I want to go original with one of the suppliers (AH Spares?) or a Moto > Lita wheel. BTW - my steering box/shaft is BN2 later type. Great wealth > of > information on this list. Thanks. > Mike From linwoodrose at mac.com Sun May 24 09:44:48 2009 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 11:44:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid problem Message-ID: <5F071CB4-D8B1-448F-8EA4-69309CEB16B2@mac.com> Hi folks, Well I have made it to Oregon from Rehoboth Beach, Deleware without a problem. Now I have a pesky one. It seems that the starter solenoid post is loose and I am only sporadically making contact to start the car. I have had to push start it a few times which while not a big problem is a bit of a pain. Question: I have a gear reduction starter and I seem to recall that you can bypass the original solenoid with these starters, but I have no directions. Can I just hook the cable from the battery directly to the positive post on the starter? If so, anything else I need to do? How about that little jumper wire? I assume that if one does this, then just turning the ignition key will turn the starter. Does the gear reduction starter have a solenoid built in to it to engage the starter to the flywheel? Thanks for your help. I am hoping that I can do this until I can get a new solenoid along the way as I have another two weeks until I am back in Virginia. Lin 1960 AH 3000 "The Bloody Beast" From alan.bromfield at virgin.net Sun May 24 09:51:22 2009 From: alan.bromfield at virgin.net (Alan Bromfield) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 16:51:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6517605337E74C319ECCDF4D790035A0@Dell> Mike Get yourself a Lempert wheel. No question. http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/healey Also make sure the three spokes are at 120degs. The 'T' layout (90,180,90) is just WRONG on a big Healey _______________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \__1957-BN4 x 2__/ _______) (______www.nfahc.co.uk____) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com Sent: 24 May 2009 06:18 To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Adjustable Steering Wheel O.K., I guess I have a steering wheel from something other than a Healey? Rats! Spent the money on the resto for nothing. Now I will have to decide if I want to go original with one of the suppliers (AH Spares?) or a Moto Lita wheel. BTW - my steering box/shaft is BN2 later type. Great wealth of information on this list. Thanks. Mike On Sat, May 23, 2009 at 9:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mike - > > I can verify virtually all larger Austins of the 50s and 60s used basically > the same sized spline shaft. I have my old BJ8 steering wheel on my '52 A90 > to prove it (the car is being painted). > > I suspect your steering wheel is from a different car - with the smaller > shaft probably from a smaller Austin or small production LBC of the period. > > Bluemel made these steering wheels for practically the entire UK car > industry, that means several cars used steering wheels that looked very > similar. > > Where did you get your steering wheel? I suspect you will have to purchase > a replacement. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:28 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < > rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > >> I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in >> California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is >> another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit >> the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the >> steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of >> the >> splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no >> standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different >> years? >> Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel >> hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go >> to >> Moss for a replacement? >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as alan.bromfield at virgin.net http://www.team.net/archive From TPr105 at aol.com Sun May 24 09:52:30 2009 From: TPr105 at aol.com (TPr105 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 11:52:30 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 282 Message-ID: To whom it may concern, I have not received a Healeys Digest e-mail in over a week. I don't know what happened but I would like to continue receiving them. If there is something I should be doing to continue, please let me know. Thank you Tony Prince From dwflagg at juno.com Sun May 24 10:04:02 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:04:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Smiths Ammeter Message-ID: <20090524.120403.5464.0.dwflagg@juno.com> In rummaging through a closet looking for a non-Healey item, I came across a Smiths ammeter, +/- 30 30 amps. It has the lighting assembly and a mounting bracket w/nuts, which works but is not the original. Bezel (later style, i.e., 6 cylinder) has one very small ding, but does not detract from the overall appearance. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks and have a very nice holiday weekend. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Criminal Lawyers - Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOVoKkJ5GnjjFkf9kKKxmaBbdsvwPm1HoypDwovmGFxlS9dRauzmw/ From bcrist at club-internet.fr Sun May 24 10:57:01 2009 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 18:57:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey-Type if i dare say... Message-ID: <4A197C5D.8090703@club-internet.fr> Look at the engine of this one http://www.spriteparts.com.au/fright.htm Bernard XK120 FHC 1954 S1 E-type FHC 1962 Healey 3000 BT7 1960 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 24 11:19:01 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 13:19:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 282 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <010a01c9dc93$bb8ec910$32ac5b30$@net> Take a look at the trailer that appears at the end of the messages and access the web site. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TPr105 at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 11:53 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 282 To whom it may concern, I have not received a Healeys Digest e-mail in over a week. I don't know what happened but I would like to continue receiving them. If there is something I should be doing to continue, please let me know. Thank you Tony Prince Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From mlempert at bellsouth.net Sun May 24 12:04:32 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 14:04:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 333 References: Message-ID: <1E45B4123660488189BAECDFB6770EA0@DadsPC> Yes, there were standards. MANY. The non-adjustable wheels and shafts were different than the adjustable, but all non-adjustable were the same and all adjustable were the same. The adjustable columns were 48 spline count and about 3/4 in diameter, and the non-adjustable were 50 spline count and a small fraction larger in diameter (without getting out the caliper to refresh my memory). While the 48 spline was a very commonly used one (Jag, MGA, Morgan, Mini, and many others) I have only known Healey to use the 50 count. To give you some idea of it's rarity, I cannot find a broaching shop in all of England that has the broach for it, but they all have the 48 counts. If you could provide me with a picture of your wheel, I may be able to tell you more. Regards, Mike Lempert http://www.lempertwheels.com > I have a non-adjustable steering wheel that was restored by Koch's here in > California. While the restoration job was quite satisfactory, there is > another problem. The splines in the hub of this steering wheel do not fit > the steering shaft splines of my steering box/shaft. The splines on the > steering box shaft are a larger OD that the inner diameter of the top of > the > splines in the steering wheel hub. What's up with that? Are there no > standards here, or are there different steering wheels for different > years? > Besides that, the splines are crumbling at one end of the steering wheel > hub. Is there a fix such as a bushing for this? Or, am I destined to go > to > Moss for a replacement? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 From Hartangus at aol.com Sun May 24 12:21:56 2009 From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 14:21:56 EDT Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: Test From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun May 24 15:09:59 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 22:09:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Message-ID: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> One for the wise ones............ (I have a MkII BT7) My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging... With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the horn. I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for daylight. Any suggestions? And, does anyone have page N.22 from the manual AKD1179H that they could email me? Page starts with the words "steering box. With an". Mine seems to be missing from my pdf version and I can't stuff the paper manual into my rather flimsy little scanner. And, looking at the excellent pictures of the "trafficator" from that excellent article, I don't see a spring which, in my horn, sits under the brass plate which is under the plastic horn push. This being the plate which completes the circuit and makes the horns sound off. Is my spring something which a PO put in? Simon. From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Sun May 24 15:12:12 2009 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 16:12:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Won't Start Message-ID: Hi All, We'll after three years I am finally able to try and start my engine. It ran fine before I pulled it. While it was out, all I did was replace gaskets, distributor cap, points, plugs, condenser coil and wires. I did disassemble the carbs for inspection and cleaning. Bought a new battery today and turned the key and the engine turned great but didn't fire. I checked for spark coming from the coil, which was good. I checked for spark from each plug, which was good. I checked the gap from each plug as well as the dwell from the points all good but the engine won't fire. I thought maybe a fuel problem, but eliminated that when I squirted a little gas into each spark plug hole and nothing. When I had the engine out, I did attempt to remove the distributor but only was able to pull it about an inch or so, so I just slid it back down. I was thinking the maybe the timing could be way off but when I attempt to turn the distributor, I am only able to twist it maybe 1/32" to 1/16", after loosening it of course. So now I'm baffled. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated, Steve Meyer 61 BN7 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 24 16:13:55 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 18:13:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Won't Start References: Message-ID: Steve, You have no doubt removed the distributor drive shaft far enough to disengage the gear teeth from the camshaft. When it went back down it dropped into a different tooth position. Start over by bringing #1 piston to TDC on the firing stroke, i.e with the valves of #6 just rocking. Remove the tachdrive extension and with a 5/16" NF bolt about 4" long, screw it into the drive dog centre threaded hole and pull it out. Read the manual which will show you the proper orientation the drive dog slot needs to be positioned, which is at the "twenty to two" position. Now replace the drive extension and install the distributor so the slot engages correctly in the drive and the rotor is pointing at the #1 position on the distributor cap. Fine adjust the distributor as needed, but this will get you going. Rich chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve" To: Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:12 PM Subject: [Healeys] Engine Won't Start > Hi All, > We'll after three years I am finally able to try and start > my engine. It ran fine before I pulled it. While it was out, all I did > was replace gaskets, distributor cap, points, plugs, condenser coil and > wires. I did disassemble the carbs for inspection and cleaning. Bought > a new battery today and turned the key and the engine turned great but > didn't fire. I checked for spark coming from the coil, which was good. > I checked for spark from each plug, which was good. I checked the gap > from each plug as well as the dwell from the points all good but the > engine won't fire. I thought maybe a fuel problem, but eliminated that > when I squirted a little gas into each spark plug hole and nothing. > When I had the engine out, I did attempt to remove the distributor but > only was able to pull it about an inch or so, so I just slid it back > down. I was thinking the maybe the timing could be way off but when I > attempt to turn the distributor, I am only able to twist it maybe 1/32" > to 1/16", after loosening it of course. So now I'm baffled. Does > anyone have any suggestions? > > Any help would be appreciated, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 24 16:34:10 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 18:34:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn In-Reply-To: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <000001c9dcbf$c26dcd90$474968b0$@net> Go to the Technical page of my web site and scan down to the Gauge section and you will see at the end of that section a link to Trafficator Repair. This brings up a PDF which has excellent photos of what you should see. It takes a while to load but you will be able to print it out and use it. Dont ask me why I put it in that section, but I did. I have and original AKD 1179A and the page does not read the same as mine. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Horn One for the wise ones............ (I have a MkII BT7) My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging... With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the horn. I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for daylight. Any suggestions? And, does anyone have page N.22 from the manual AKD1179H that they could email me? Page starts with the words "steering box. With an". Mine seems to be missing from my pdf version and I can't stuff the paper manual into my rather flimsy little scanner. And, looking at the excellent pictures of the "trafficator" from that excellent article, I don't see a spring which, in my horn, sits under the brass plate which is under the plastic horn push. This being the plate which completes the circuit and makes the horns sound off. Is my spring something which a PO put in? Simon. From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 24 16:57:25 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 06:57:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Horn In-Reply-To: <7901149237798153441@unknownmsgid> References: <7901149237798153441@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: Simon - Bad fuse or bad fuse contact, very common. First try removing and re-inserting fuse! Alan On 5/25/09, Simon Lachlan wrote: > One for the wise ones............ > (I have a MkII BT7) > My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging... > With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not > appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the > horn. > I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for > daylight. > Any suggestions? > And, does anyone have page N.22 from the manual AKD1179H that they could > email me? Page starts with the words "steering box. With an". Mine seems to > be missing from my pdf version and I can't stuff the paper manual into my > rather flimsy little scanner. > And, looking at the excellent pictures of the "trafficator" from that > excellent article, I don't see a spring which, in my horn, sits under the > brass plate which is under the plastic horn push. This being the plate which > completes the circuit and makes the horns sound off. Is my spring something > which a PO put in? > Simon. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 24 17:01:27 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:01:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Won't Start In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Steve - It is very easy to swap the drive dog for the dizzy into being 180 deg out from the twenty-two position. Check the drive dog, I bet it's 180 deg out. Alan On 5/25/09, Steve wrote: > Hi All, > We'll after three years I am finally able to try and start > my engine. It ran fine before I pulled it. While it was out, all I did > was replace gaskets, distributor cap, points, plugs, condenser coil and > wires. I did disassemble the carbs for inspection and cleaning. Bought > a new battery today and turned the key and the engine turned great but > didn't fire. I checked for spark coming from the coil, which was good. > I checked for spark from each plug, which was good. I checked the gap > from each plug as well as the dwell from the points all good but the > engine won't fire. I thought maybe a fuel problem, but eliminated that > when I squirted a little gas into each spark plug hole and nothing. > When I had the engine out, I did attempt to remove the distributor but > only was able to pull it about an inch or so, so I just slid it back > down. I was thinking the maybe the timing could be way off but when I > attempt to turn the distributor, I am only able to twist it maybe 1/32" > to 1/16", after loosening it of course. So now I'm baffled. Does > anyone have any suggestions? > > Any help would be appreciated, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 24 17:04:09 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:04:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid problem In-Reply-To: <5F071CB4-D8B1-448F-8EA4-69309CEB16B2@mac.com> References: <5F071CB4-D8B1-448F-8EA4-69309CEB16B2@mac.com> Message-ID: Lin - yes the GRS has it's own solenoid. Just hook the positive line to the GRS and then the switch circuit to the small lead on the GRS and voila! On 5/24/09, Linwood H Rose wrote: > Hi folks, > Well I have made it to Oregon from Rehoboth Beach, Deleware without a > problem. Now I have a pesky one. It seems that the starter solenoid > post is loose and I am only sporadically making contact to start the > car. I have had to push start it a few times which while not a big > problem is a bit of a pain. > > Question: > I have a gear reduction starter and I seem to recall that you can > bypass the original solenoid with these starters, but I have no > directions. Can I just hook the cable from the battery directly to the > positive post on the starter? If so, anything else I need to do? How > about that little jumper wire? I assume that if one does this, then > just turning the ignition key will turn the starter. Does the gear > reduction starter have a solenoid built in to it to engage the starter > to the flywheel? > > Thanks for your help. I am hoping that I can do this until I can get a > new solenoid along the way as I have another two weeks until I am back > in Virginia. > > Lin > 1960 AH 3000 "The Bloody Beast" > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun May 24 17:38:45 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 16:38:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Horn In-Reply-To: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <3EC7E6B51F0D488485FDBB61F90AF560@LeonardPCPC> Simon: Just solved my 'no horn' problem today. You say you have only checked the horn push and the fuse. Have you checked at the horn? My problem was the hot wire to the horns had become disconnected at the horn(s). Reconnected. Horn works. If I am correct, the horns get the hot wire and the horn button goes to ground completing the circuit. By the way, my horn works without the ignition on. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Simon Lachlan" To: Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 2:09 PM Subject: [Healeys] Horn > One for the wise ones............ > (I have a MkII BT7) > My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging... > With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not > appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the > horn. > I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for > daylight. > Any suggestions? From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun May 24 17:39:18 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 19:39:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn In-Reply-To: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000c01c9dcb3$ff84f4d0$fe8ede70$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4A19DAA6.3000206@earthlink.net> Simon, The horn circuit goes from the battery, to the starter solenoid, to the 'A' post on the voltage regulator, to the 50 amp fuse, to the horns, to the horn button on the trafficator, to ground (steering column). It doesn't go through the ignition switch. I'd step through each point checking for 12 volts. The spring under the horn button is correct. Bob Simon Lachlan wrote: > One for the wise ones............ > (I have a MkII BT7) > My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging... > With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not > appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the > horn. > I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for > daylight. > Any suggestions? From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun May 24 19:34:20 2009 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 18:34:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Horn Message-ID: <943379.14098.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello Simon;B B You may wish to check out these two files which can also be found on the AHCSO website.B The links are provided below.B The first file lists the specs for the horns on each Austin Healey model.B The second file is for the HF1748 horn which should be the horn on your MkII BT7.B It is the Lucas Workshop Instructions for this horn and may be of help in figuring out your problem.B Good luck. B Regarding page N22, my AKD1179C Workshop Manual starts withB different words. B --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; b60 MkI BN7 & b62 MkII BT7 B PS: I realize the files will be striped for the List copy; see links below. B Austin Healey Horn Specifications http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/Horns/Austin%20Healey%20Horn%20Specs.pdf http://tinyurl.com/qkfk8b B Lucas Horn HF1748 Lucas Workshop Instructions http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/Horns/K-4%20Horns%20HF1746-47-48.pdf http://tinyurl.com/dgjj7w B J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, B Murphy Lives Simon Lachlan wrote: << One for the wise ones............(I have a MkII BT7) My horns aren't working. I have done a little digging...B With ignition on..There is no current at the horn push and there does not appear to be any current in/at the top fuse which I believe only does the horn. I haven't looked much further except in the books as I'm waiting for daylight.B Any suggestions? And, does anyone have page N.22 from the manual AKD1179H that they could email me? Page starts with the words "steering box. With an". Mine seems to be missing from my pdf version and I can't stuff the paper manual into my rather flimsy little scanner.B And, looking at the excellent pictures of the "trafficator" from thatB excellent article, I don't see a spring which, in my horn, sits under the brass plate which is under the plastic horn push. This being the plate which completes the circuit and makes the horns sound off. Is my spring something which a PO put in? >> __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Austin] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of K-4] From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Sun May 24 20:59:06 2009 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 22:59:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Kingston June 21 -26 In-Reply-To: <943379.14098.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <943379.14098.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Conclave 2009 in Kingston, Ontario is now less than a month away. I you are thinking of joining us, there are still some rooms available at the host Ambassador Hotel. Prior to our Conclave planning process I had a number of people ask me for registration #1. This registration number is still available and will be awarded to the highest bidder on Sunday evening June 21 at the Welcome Reception. Proceeds from this auction will go to the "Make a Wish Foundation" charity. Please join us in Kingston this June. The driving is beautiful and the natives are friendly. A registration form is at http://www.bob.byethost12.com/PDF%20Files/Registration_Form_Rev_2f.pdf Laurie Wilford _________________________________________________________________ Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621 From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Sun May 24 21:00:28 2009 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve) Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 22:00:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] One More Healey Up and Runnin Message-ID: <682D9C2D303B479CB216F7956C05D25D@Healey1> All, With three years and one month into my restoration, I finally heard my engine fire today! Once I'm finished with my restoration of the steering wheel, I should be giving her a test drive next week. I'd like to say thank you to Alan Seigrist and Jim Hockert for their input about my distributor problem and a special thanks to Rich Chrysler for taking the time on the phone to walk me through the drive dog removal processes. Man that engine sounds sweet. Once I get a timing gun on it, she'll purr like a kitten, a British kitten that is. Thanks again, Steve Meyer 61 BN7 From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sun May 24 23:11:49 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 00:11:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] whitworth tools Message-ID: Where is the best place to get whitworth tools to work on my 100/4 BN1? From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 25 05:33:57 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 12:33:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Horn now working. Message-ID: <000301c9dd2c$b329cb50$197d61f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Many thanks, again, to all who answered this query. They are working again. The fact that there was no power at the top fuse was a bit of a giveaway, but I don't always trust my first impressions. I did have one flash of inspiration however and that was to bridge the two fuses together and then try the horns. When they worked, as they did, I could reckon on the wiring to and from the horns/button being OK and that the problem had to be in getting power to the fuse (and thence to the horns). It was Bob Haskell who listed the sections of the power feed to the horns and who actually used the words " to the 'A' post on the voltage regulator". And that was where the problem lay. The brown wire was not connected. Don't ask! Poltergeist or Gremlins, maybe leprechauns in my case. Anyhow, there it was, bold as brass, disconnected! And now it all works. Thanks again. Simon From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 25 05:40:40 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:40:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] whitworth tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001e01c9dd2d$a1eab470$e5c01d50$@net> Try British Fastener: http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 1:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] whitworth tools Where is the best place to get whitworth tools to work on my 100/4 BN1? From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 25 06:17:04 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 13:17:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual Message-ID: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Having gone to my manual (in its pdf form on my PC) I was frustrated when I found that the page I needed was missing. Sometimes, I know, one manual is later than another and thus has more pages as later models were introduced. Mine is just missing a page ie it jumps from, say, page 8 to page 10. AKD1179D is the its part number but I suppose we've all got slightly different versions. I imagine that most actual pages will be the same, even if they have slightly different numbering. So, I need whatever page in N that starts "steering box. With an adjustable". (N22 in my version). Thanks, Simon From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon May 25 06:41:19 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 08:41:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] whitworth tools References: Message-ID: Hey Jess, I would probably go to eBay UK these days - look in "vintage tools" and there is lots of whitworth stuff - nearly always someone has some complete wrench or socket sets going and the prices have always seemed reasonable. here is the link: http://motors.shop.ebay.co.uk/items/Vintage-Tools__W0QQ_sacatZ31347 if you want new, both British Fasteners and Waldridge carry sets. I find the former a bit expensive, but I often buy from Waldridge and their prices are good: http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc http://www.walridge.com/section/view/ cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jess Power" > Where is the best place to get whitworth tools to work on my 100/4 BN1? From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Mon May 25 06:49:29 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:49:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual In-Reply-To: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> Simon, What year and model of car? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 7:17 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual Having gone to my manual (in its pdf form on my PC) I was frustrated when I found that the page I needed was missing. Sometimes, I know, one manual is later than another and thus has more pages as later models were introduced. Mine is just missing a page ie it jumps from, say, page 8 to page 10. AKD1179D is the its part number but I suppose we've all got slightly different versions. I imagine that most actual pages will be the same, even if they have slightly different numbering. So, I need whatever page in N that starts "steering box. With an adjustable". (N22 in my version). Thanks, Simon From ampole at hotmail.com Mon May 25 08:08:38 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 14:08:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual In-Reply-To: <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> References: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> Message-ID: I believe AKD1179D is the factory workshop manual (circ 1967 edition), I dont know what Simon is actually after (except for the page 9??), perhaps he will clarify if its a description of work or parts drawing? I can help with the factory parts drawings but do not have the workshop manual in pdf form. But I can scan the factory manual and send you the page from work tomorrow Simon, if no-one does in the meantime. > Simon, > > What year and model of car? > _________________________________________________________________ View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon May 25 09:03:10 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 11:03:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual In-Reply-To: References: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> Message-ID: <4A1AB32E.5040801@earthlink.net> I've scanned the page Simon is looking for. Just trying to figure out the appropriate image format to put into a pdf file. andy pole wrote: > I believe AKD1179D is the factory workshop manual (circ 1967 edition), I dont > know what Simon is actually after (except for the page 9??), perhaps he will > clarify if its a description of work or parts drawing? > > > > I can help with the factory parts drawings but do not have the workshop manual > in pdf form. > > > > But I can scan the factory manual and send you the page from work tomorrow > Simon, if no-one does in the meantime. > >> Simon, >> >> What year and model of car? >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 25 09:14:24 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 11:14:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual In-Reply-To: References: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> Message-ID: <002c01c9dd4b$7d7316f0$785944d0$@net> My AKD1179A is marked "Issue 2" but has no date anywhere. It is for series BN4, BN6, BN7 and BT7 so I would place it somewhere around 1960(?) It does not have the page cited. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andy pole Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 10:09 AM To: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net; simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pages from manual I believe AKD1179D is the factory workshop manual (circ 1967 edition), I dont know what Simon is actually after (except for the page 9??), perhaps he will clarify if its a description of work or parts drawing? I can help with the factory parts drawings but do not have the workshop manual in pdf form. But I can scan the factory manual and send you the page from work tomorrow Simon, if no-one does in the meantime. > Simon, > > What year and model of car? > _________________________________________________________________ View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/ Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon May 25 09:55:09 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 11:55:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual Message-ID: <000801c9dd51$30b5f390$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> I've sent Simon the page requested (p. 22 section N) from Workshop Manual AKD 1179D earlier this morning. Haven't heard back so maybe he's waiting for a different file format. Best Peter From robertlarson at att.net Mon May 25 10:03:42 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 12:03:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual In-Reply-To: <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> References: <000301c9dd32$b85f33c0$291d9b40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <000001c9dd37$3f29e5e0$bd7db1a0$@net> Message-ID: <4A1AC15E.9060102@att.net> Hi Simon, In a PDF form I have AKD1179H. It is in the "Heritage Motor Centre" CD that was produced in the UK. In the "Electrical System" category page N.22 starts as quoted. This is part of section N.30 entitled "Horn-Push and Direction Indicator Switch". So there is a possible source of a later version of the workshop manual. Contact me off list if you want further information. Bob 55BN1 > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan > Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 7:17 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Pages from manual > > Having gone to my manual (in its pdf form on my PC) I was frustrated when I > found that the page I needed was missing. Sometimes, I know, one manual is > later than another and thus has more pages as later models were introduced. > Mine is just missing a page ie it jumps from, say, page 8 to page 10. > AKD1179D is the its part number but I suppose we've all got slightly > different versions. I imagine that most actual pages will be the same, even > if they have slightly different numbering. > So, I need whatever page in N that starts "steering box. With an > adjustable". (N22 in my version). > Thanks, > Simon From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Mon May 25 10:27:11 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 12:27:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Grille Install, WOW! Message-ID: <001601c9dd55$a9ab6330$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> I know we have been down this road a lot recently but this is awful. I thought I would try a dry run before I installed the front fenders for the last time and ran into a hell of a problem. With the radiator shroud hanging in the way, along with wiring harnesses and front tire, this is an impossible feet. I was actually going to install the grille after getting the car back from the paint shop , and with the front fenders already on. I just don't see how this is possible. Not enough room to slide the grille in without bending it and totally scratching up a new paint job. Does anyone know how the factory went about installing grilles? It was a piece of cake when I put the grille in place when the shroud was off the car. Why not install the grille loosely before the shroud is installed and then install both units together onto the car? Any other advice as to how to do the grille install. I have the double studs but they just seem to get in the way when coming in from the side. Thanks MARK From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon May 25 11:17:58 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 13:17:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Grille Install, WOW! References: <001601c9dd55$a9ab6330$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Mark, First we are still talking abou the earlier horizontal wavy slat grille, right? Place the front of the car on jack stands and get the front wheels out of the way. Position the height of the front of the car so you can lie comfortably on your back and reaching straight up, can reach the top grille fasteners. The side splash shields (on at least one side) needs to remain off the car for now. You will be introducing parts in from the side. I usually bring everything in from the passenger's side to avoild the steering box and it's wiring. Bring the brow and teeth assembly in from that side and fit loosely into place. Install the bottom chrome edging strip onto the bottom lip of the shroud. Start your double ended studs into the lower left and right grille mountings as we spoke about last week. Now bring the (black painted) left and right inner radiator shroud pieces and the tie bar that fits between them in from the side one at a time (not as an assembly) and get them fitted loosely to their screws at the top and onto the studs at the bottom. Install the outer splash shields (painted body colour) into their inner wheel arch locations. Install the bottom front corner steady straps (painted black) onto the splash shields and onto the lower outer studs. Carefully align and tighten everything. Go have a beer (only when the job's finished) and congratulate yourself. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: [Healeys] Grille Install, WOW! >I know we have been down this road a lot recently but this is awful. > > I thought I would try a dry run before I installed the front fenders for > the > last time > and ran into a hell of a problem. With the radiator shroud hanging in > the > way, along with wiring > harnesses and front tire, this is an impossible feet. I was actually > going > to install > the grille after getting the car back from the paint shop , and with the > front fenders already > on. I just don't see how this is possible. Not enough room to slide the > grille in without bending > it and totally scratching up a new paint job. > > Does anyone know how the factory went about installing grilles? It was a > piece of cake when > I put the grille in place when the shroud was off the car. Why not > install > the grille loosely > before the shroud is installed and then install both units together onto > the > car? > > Any other advice as to how to do the grille install. > > I have the double studs but they just seem to get in the way when coming > in > from the side. > > > Thanks MARK From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Mon May 25 13:42:44 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 21:42:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from them. I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for the Bristleflex? Thanks for your help. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon May 25 14:13:19 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:13:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor Message-ID: <000c01c9dd75$3ff3bc60$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Hi Josef, I just now phoned Martin, and he has indeed received your order and is processing it. "They" in your email is really only "he", and he is scrambling to do his year-end at the moment. Profuse apologies from Martin. Best regards Peter From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 25 14:25:53 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 22:25:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4A1AFED1.6050801@chello.nl> Try Moss. Kees Oudesluijs NL Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, > http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from > them. > I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. > Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for > the Bristleflex? > Thanks for your help. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2131 - Release Date: 05/24/09 07:09:00 From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon May 25 14:32:25 2009 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:32:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4A1B0059.60309@htcnet.org> Martin seems to ignore the internet, but does answer the phone and will process an order. 00-1-905-627-4006 John BJ8s Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: > I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, > http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from > them. > I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. > Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for > the Bristleflex? > Thanks for your help. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 25 14:44:03 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 21:44:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Horns and page from manual. Message-ID: <002f01c9dd79$8a8cbbb0$9fa63310$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Just to recap:-thanks to yr efforts the horns are working and the manual is complete (I hope). Hoping I've not neglected to thank anyone personally.. Simon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 25 14:49:55 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 22:49:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4A1B0473.8020508@chello.nl> I just ordered some squeegy strips on line from Mc Gregor and there were no problems at all. I had never heard of this firm but they had the parts that have eluded me for a long long time. Kees Oudesluijs NL Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, > http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from > them. > I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. > Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for > the Bristleflex? > Thanks for your help. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2131 - Release Date: 05/24/09 07:09:00 From britcrs at gmail.com Mon May 25 15:14:59 2009 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 14:14:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Steering Wheel on eBay Message-ID: Is this correct? http://tinyurl.com/rxj9a3 Did any 100Ms come out of the factory with wood rimmed steering wheels? Marv J From satkinson7314 at charter.net Mon May 25 16:13:40 2009 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 18:13:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] painting wire wheels Message-ID: Has anyone had good experience with powercoating wire wheels? Looks like the previous owner painted over my wheels a few times so I want to get them blasted and painted. Any advice? RAL color etc. Thanks, Simon From shop at justbrits.com Mon May 25 16:23:59 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 17:23:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Steering Wheel on eBay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Mike L. HAS a blurb with the info on his steering wheel site, Marvin. Ed From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon May 25 16:24:40 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 06:24:40 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Steering Wheel on eBay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Marvin - I don't know 100M particulars, but with 6 rivets on the beech rim and the spoke configuration and the riveted boss all suggest to me this is authentic - this is very similar to what was put on the 100S (the front mount ring for the boss on the 100S was slightly different, everything else identical). Looks legit. On 5/26/09, Marvin James wrote: > Is this correct? > http://tinyurl.com/rxj9a3 > > Did any 100Ms come out of the factory with wood rimmed steering wheels? > > Marv J > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From bighealey at charter.net Mon May 25 17:08:45 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:08:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 'Frogeye' Sprite buying guide Message-ID: <588A6C5061A34F65B9571095BF936E68@TRACY> Telegraph.co.uk Austin Healey 'Frogeye' Sprite buying guide Telegraph.co.uk - United Kingdom By Andrew English Like MG before him, Donald Healey used ordinary, readily available Austin and Morris components to make this 11ft 9in long two-seater, ... Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon May 25 17:39:46 2009 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:39:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Steering Wheel on eBay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <751d05480905251639h38c86ef4l66c06eacab85689c@mail.gmail.com> Marv, The wheel is correct. First of all if Mike Lempert says it's correct then I would tend to believe that it is, and second, Roger Moment spent quit a bit of time researching this and then working with Lempert and they made a copy of this same wheel. Roger Moment, Kent Lacy and myself all have copies of this wheel which as you can see is riveted to the hub. The original hub was similar to but slightly smaller than the stock Moto-Lita hub that I used on my wheel. Roger took the time and effort to weld his hub up to a larger size and then have it machined to the exact size as the originals that he studied. I just used the stock hub since they were very close in size. Go to Mike Lempert's website to see this wheel. These were available for all 100's not just the 100M, but very rare. I can send those interested photos of my wheel with the riveted Moto-Lita hub, for which Roger Moment made a special setup to set the rivets and attach the two. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Cooper S On Mon, May 25, 2009 at 2:14 PM, Marvin James wrote: > Is this correct? > http://tinyurl.com/rxj9a3 > > Did any 100Ms come out of the factory with wood rimmed steering wheels? > > Marv J > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1672.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1673.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1674.JPG] From WLLDBL at aol.com Mon May 25 21:41:32 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 23:41:32 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Healey list e-mails Message-ID: Tony, The last Healeys list e-mail message I received was on Thursday, May 21. I haven't been able to discover any reason why they stopped coming, and, have been completely unsuccessful in getting them re-started. You're also on AOL. Wonder if it could be an AOL issue??????? Has anyone else had a problem lately??? Douglas Lyon Claremont, CA '59 BN7 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue May 26 00:50:34 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:50:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <000c01c9dd75$3ff3bc60$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <000c01c9dd75$3ff3bc60$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AF8@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Many thanks to Peter and all others responded. So think I need to be a bit more pageant, but have not received even a short response that my order will be processed. Because of different time zones and English language is not my mother tongue, I try to avoid ordering by phone. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 26 00:58:20 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:58:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Steering Wheel on eBay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1B930C.9020706@chello.nl> This wheel is probably made for AH by Moto-Lita.Several other car manufacturers had their steering wheels made by them., e.g. Jaguar, AC, Aston Martin, Jensen. They can still make these or very similar steering wheels. Look at their site for the custom built wheels or if you want a standard but very similar wheel for the Derrington wheels. If the hub is the same I do not know but Moto-Lita hubs for the AH 100-3000 are not supplied with a horn push, the original has to be used. Getting one from Moto Lita might prove a cheaper and also correct option. Kees Oudesluijs NL Marvin James schreef: > Is this correct? > http://tinyurl.com/rxj9a3 > > Did any 100Ms come out of the factory with wood rimmed steering wheels? > > Marv J > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Tue May 26 03:04:55 2009 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:04:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4e23c7250905260204u7f56f8bn6178932c677e435e@mail.gmail.com> Guys, once you see the MacGregor products you don't want to buy from anyone else any more. Absolute top quality. Forget Moss! Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2009/5/25 > I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, > http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from > them. > I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. > Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for > the Bristleflex? > Thanks for your help. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com Tue May 26 03:17:01 2009 From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:17:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] painting wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4e23c7250905260217y233e14e3i69fb8db7f0349f51@mail.gmail.com> Simon, yes, my wheels were shot blasted and powder coated. Looks very nice - see my photos at picasaweb.google.nl/j.aeckerlin. Only negative point is that the edge of the rim is prone to damage: if you hit something a chip of paint flies off. Jack Aeclerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2009/5/26 Simon & Christine Atkinson > Has anyone had good experience with powercoating wire wheels? Looks like > the > previous owner painted over my wheels a few times so I want to get them > blasted and painted. > > Any advice? RAL color etc. > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 26 03:34:40 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 11:34:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250905260204u7f56f8bn6178932c677e435e@mail.gmail.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4e23c7250905260204u7f56f8bn6178932c677e435e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A1BB7B0.9080302@chello.nl> Jaap, Moss is selling the seals which are supplied by McGregor. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jaap Aeckerlin schreef: > Guys, once you see the MacGregor products you don't want to buy from anyone > else any more. Absolute top quality. Forget Moss! > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 > > 2009/5/25 > > >> I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, >> http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from >> them. >> I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. >> Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for >> the Bristleflex? >> Thanks for your help. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.39/2134 - Release Date: 05/25/09 18:14:00 From linsley46 at gmail.com Tue May 26 06:37:46 2009 From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:37:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250905260204u7f56f8bn6178932c677e435e@mail.gmail.com> References: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3145AAD@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> <4e23c7250905260204u7f56f8bn6178932c677e435e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: MacGregor - has been a frustrating place to try to order products. I have sent orders in via his web site, by email and over the phone. In two years I have never received a response except an automated notice that the order was received. When I called I was told it would be sent out. After months of waiting I tried again. Still no luck. I guess you must have to have the the decoder ring. John On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 5:04 AM, Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Guys, once you see the MacGregor products you don't want to buy from anyone > else any more. Absolute top quality. Forget Moss! > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 > > 2009/5/25 > > > I wanted to order Bristleflex door seals from MacGregor, > > http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com, but could not get any response from > > them. > > I see no way to order online. I sent an e-mail and fax, but no response. > > Do they deliver only to distributors? Is there any other supplier for > > the Bristleflex? > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/Germany > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as linsley46 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue May 26 07:45:55 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 07:45:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] off the grid Message-ID: <21382CF3D45D4960A97863757F516129@oscar> Despite signing up 3 times I'm still not receiving my daily dose of the Healey list postings. Yes, I checked the junk mail options. Anyone have Mark's direct e-mail so I can get this sorted.Thanks! Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue May 26 07:58:53 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 09:58:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor Message-ID: <002c01c9de0a$1ab5c890$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Unfortunately one doesn't hear from the many satisfied customers as much as the few unhappy ones. Yes, John, you have every right to be annoyed, and Martin feels badly, but apparently you ordered a special colour of which a new batch was still in production by the factory. Eight colours in three extrusions are being juggled. Yes, Moss sells the Bristleflex, but only in black so far. They are in line for probably the beige colour next, to go with their tan interiors, and then maybe the blue, but production is still a stumbling block. Martin once again offers his apologies, and says you can all beat him with sticks at Conclave. Best regards Peter From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue May 26 08:24:41 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 10:24:41 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid problem Message-ID: "Question: I have a gear reduction starter and I seem to recall that you can bypass the original solenoid with these starters, but I have no directions. Can I just hook the cable from the battery directly to the positive post on the starter? If so, anything else I need to do? How about that little jumper wire? I assume that if one does this, then just turning the ignition key will turn the starter. Does the gear reduction starter have a solenoid built in to it to engage the starter to the flywheel?" ------------------------------- Lin-- Yes, you can hook the battery directly to the starter or even easier simply use one stud of the solenoid to make the connction with the existing cables. Then if you hook the "little jumper wire" to the wire that energizes the original solenoid you will take it (the original defective solenoid) out of the circuit and you will be using the solenoid which is built into the gear starter. Actually you were always using it, but you energized IT through the original solenoid. Go here: _http://ferraris.server273.com/solenoid.html_ (http://ferraris.server273.com/solenoid.html) This is the page at the "British Starters" that tells how to utilize the original solenoid with a reduction starter which is no doubt how you are currently set up and in order to get your Healey solenoid out of the equation you will need to disconnect the ring terminal end of the small wire from the big terminal on the reduction starter and hook it up via butt connectors and perhaps an additional length of light wire to the wire that runs to your original solenoid from the starter switch. Again, connect the battery cable and the starter cable together at either post of the original solenoid. I have reductions starters and have discarded the original solenoid on all my cars--having both in tandem is kind of a "belt and suspender" situation where you need both--not just one-- to hold your pants up and simply creates an extra failure mode. Best--Michael Oritt **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue May 26 08:52:11 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 10:52:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <002c01c9de0a$1ab5c890$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <002c01c9de0a$1ab5c890$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4A1C021B.4020108@comcast.net> Peter, Having many satisfied customers can also be a problem for Martin, I suppose. I emailed him a while back telling him how happy I was with the red Bristleflex product that I installed in my tricarb and asked for some samples of the other colors and shapes to spread the word to my MG friends. I received a reply saying that they were quite busy and would get them out when they had a chance. After a month or two went past, I again emailed with no reply. Sometimes it is almost as bad being too busy as not having enough work. I can imagine that perhaps he doesn't even have time to get more help with production and filling orders because all his time is taken up doing those things. Perhaps there are some British car fans in your area with time on their hands that can help him out as he needs it. Charlie Peter Svilans wrote: > Unfortunately one doesn't hear from the many satisfied customers as much as > the few unhappy ones. Yes, John, you have every right to be annoyed, and > Martin feels badly, but apparently you ordered a special colour of which a new > batch was still in production by the factory. Eight colours in three > extrusions are being juggled. > > Yes, Moss sells the Bristleflex, but only in black so far. They are in line > for probably the beige colour next, to go with their tan interiors, and then > maybe the blue, but production is still a stumbling block. > > Martin once again offers his apologies, and says you can all beat him with > sticks at Conclave. > > Best regards > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 26 09:15:24 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:15:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] painting wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Be careful, i had my wheel powder coated prior to putting on the stainlees wheels. You can not use any of the wire wheel cleaners on them it will remove the powder coating. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 25, 2009, at 3:13 PM, Simon & Christine Atkinson wrote: > Has anyone had good experience with powercoating wire wheels? Looks > like the > previous owner painted over my wheels a few times so I want to get > them > blasted and painted. > > Any advice? RAL color etc. > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From STOCKLAND at aol.com Tue May 26 10:01:15 2009 From: STOCKLAND at aol.com (STOCKLAND at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:01:15 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Not Working BJ8 Message-ID: I have done some rewiring of the instruments and now find that the gas gage is not working. Have voltage to the gage but may have reversed the leads to the sender unit. When the tank if full, does the sender unit show the least resistance? If so, can I short across the instrument poles going to the sender unit to show a full tank and see if the needle moves? Thanks, Jon **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377034x1201454326/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= MaystepsfooterNO62) From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue May 26 10:08:58 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:08:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor Message-ID: <002201c9de1c$46c27750$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> You're right, Charlie, the business would definitely benefit from some help to handle the load. While he has had help occasionally, in the end he prefers to work alone, in sole control of all aspects of his enterprise, particularly the standards of quality. I apprenticed with him learning the British car upholstery trade back in the eighties. Along the way I enjoyed the great privilege of doing "Goldie''s mink and suede interior. But three years was enough to see that a second, different personality hanging about his own personal place was not the ideal, preferred situation. Even back then, the groundwork for production of a better door seal was being laid, but I seem to recall that the minimum order for one colour and a custom profile was many thousands of feet. So a basic colour and profile applicable to different makes were considered first, with other colours to follow. Being a former trim production engineer with British Leyland, he laid out exacting standards for the factory to follow, with many test failures, and there are still ongoing expenditures of personal time and money as the project moves along. With the highest regard for a master craftsman, Peter From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 11:00:04 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:00:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <002201c9de1c$46c27750$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <> Pics of "Goldie's" maiden voyage are on my site. See "Earls Court 100-6" here: http://www.justbrits.com/AHcars.html Ed From helyjohn at cablespeed.com Tue May 26 11:30:43 2009 From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 10:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pan Message-ID: <139566EA006E437B9372ADDD222075B4@FRED> I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7. I need a decent oil pan. A few small dents would be OK, but the whole bottom of mine is trashed. Anyone out there have one to sell? John Snyder 1959 BN7 1960 BT7 1961 BN7 MK2 1962 BT7 MK2 From peter.svilans at rogers.com Tue May 26 11:36:21 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 13:36:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie Message-ID: <000801c9de28$7c3dc1d0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> I believe so, Ed. Harrisburg, was it ? I really liked Goldie's full-width cover panel behind the seats, covering the stowed top, spare tire, wheelarches, stirrups, etc. all in a tidy neat curved enclosure with the radio speakers in the short top deck. I was always going to make a replica for my BN6 in red, and had the original rotted plywood panel for a pattern (along with all the rest of the original shredded suede trim panels) around for a long time, but they eventually had to go. Peter From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue May 26 11:48:42 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:48:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Frame to Body Seal (Moss terminology) Message-ID: <48720d20905261048v6a29a6ebsa8724cc9e5665b2c@mail.gmail.com> The seal on my BT7 is all chewed up and needs to be replaced. Is there an easy way to do this? Does it require both pillars to be removed to get the windscreen to elevate for the seal to be placed? Thanks, Jack From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue May 26 12:05:07 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 14:05:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bristleflex MacGregor In-Reply-To: <002201c9de1c$46c27750$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <002201c9de1c$46c27750$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4A1C2F53.2000404@comcast.net> Peter, I understand his need for control of the quality of his products, but since he has developed a superior product he needs to get some of the grunt work off of his chest and concentrate on the aspects that really must have his attention. Putting together orders, sending out samples, and lower skill things like that are where help would free him up to do the stuff where his abilities can be most utilized. When you develop something that works better than anything else on the market, you should expect people to want it. Charlie Peter Svilans wrote: > You're right, Charlie, the business would definitely benefit from some help to > handle the load. > > While he has had help occasionally, in the end he prefers to work alone, in > sole control of all aspects of his enterprise, particularly the standards of > quality. > > I apprenticed with him learning the British car upholstery trade back in the > eighties. Along the way I enjoyed the great privilege of doing "Goldie''s > mink and suede interior. But three years was enough to see that a second, > different personality hanging about his own personal place was not the ideal, > preferred situation. > > Even back then, the groundwork for production of a better door seal was being > laid, but I seem to recall that the minimum order for one colour and a custom > profile was many thousands of feet. So a basic colour and profile applicable > to different makes were considered first, with other colours to follow. Being > a former trim production engineer with British Leyland, he laid out exacting > standards for the factory to follow, with many test failures, and there are > still ongoing expenditures of personal time and money as the project moves > along. > > > With the highest regard for a master craftsman, > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 12:19:58 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 13:19:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] New PA legislation !!! FYI & FWIW Message-ID: >From SEMA & for ALL Penseltuckians!!! Pennsylvania HB 1172: Classic vehicles would be exempt from needing a certificate of inspection before being registered. From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 26 13:05:09 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 12:05:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <139566EA006E437B9372ADDD222075B4@FRED> References: <139566EA006E437B9372ADDD222075B4@FRED> Message-ID: <18883CFC-D32D-4FF2-8E71-C21C2B4150C5@sbcglobal.net> Good used oil pans are very hard to find, I have a couple of useable steel pans they all have some damage. I would recommend that you upgrade it to a aluminium pan and you will no longer have a problem with a damaged pan. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 26, 2009, at 10:30 AM, John Snyder wrote: > I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7. I need a decent > oil pan. A > few small dents would be OK, but the whole bottom of mine is > trashed. Anyone > out there have one to sell? > > John Snyder > 1959 BN7 > 1960 BT7 > 1961 BN7 MK2 > 1962 BT7 MK2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue May 26 13:24:35 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:24:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] [Mg-t] New PA legislation !!! FYI & FWIW In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1C41F3.1040209@comcast.net> Ed, That is good news, but in PA "classic cars" are defined as 15 years or older. "Antique cars" at 25 years or older, never did need to be inspected. Pictures are required to get a car registered as an antique and no state inspection is required after that. My daily driver Subaru Alpine Sport wagon is 15 years old and I don't intend to put classic tags on it because then the mileage will be limited. Nowadays a 15 year old car doesn't really seem that old. My TD was 18 years old when I bought it and seemed to be so far from a modern car, even in 1970. My tricarb Healey was only 11 years old when I bought it in '73 and again seemed ancient compared to the current cars. I have an '85 RX7 also and even though it will be an "antique" next year, it could easily be an everyday car today. I guess the Brits were a bit behind the times. Hard to believe in the current climate that the gov't would be letting up on regs for cars. Charlie Ed's Shop wrote: > >From SEMA & for ALL Penseltuckians!!! > > Pennsylvania HB 1172: Classic vehicles would be exempt from needing a > certificate of inspection before being registered. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From medlabinc at msn.com Tue May 26 14:08:11 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 13:08:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Message-ID: Who does speedometer refurbishing. Would like to adjust it to new diff also. D Matson / Bj8 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 26 14:49:18 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:49:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2042868224.11873701243370958362.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Palo Alto Speedometer did it for me. Takes new gears on the trip meter and odometer, and recalibration. http://www.paspeedo.com/ Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 1:08:11 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Who does speedometer refurbishing. Would like to adjust it to new diff also. D Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ From dan at warner-associates.com Tue May 26 14:54:04 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:54:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground-Single lever jacks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <59301088F30B470EAC05D55780337FE8@DANSTROM> If you jack up one end and then go to do the other end of the car with a single lever jack beware. The single arm jacks do not go straight up and can pull a car off the stands if the jack does not slide to compensate for the horizontal change the lever makes as it goes up. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dick Matson Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 10:34 AM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground Yes. And some good wood blocking put in place after the car is on jack stands - before you start your work. A local guy here was crushed under a car just this past week. He was found deceased. That is two I know of now. And that my friend will spoil your whole day. Dick M / Bj8 Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground A secure hydraulic jack to get the car up on sturdy jack stands on solid level ground and a creeper to slide around on. I can think of at least one highly rated shop that uses nothing more than this. Best JK --- On Sun, 5/10/09, PhilRitten at aol.com > wrote: > From: PhilRitten at aol.com > > Subject: [Healeys] Getting Healey off the ground > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 1:59 PM > I bought some low ramps to drive my car up onto in order to > work on it, but > I can barely get under it. I'm afraid to use the usual > ones from car > stores as I might scrape the back end of my car (or the > tail pipes). Does anyone > have a suggestion of how they get their car up in the air > far enough to be > able to get under it? > > Thanks, > Phil Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 26 15:03:12 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 23:03:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> Easily found by Google-ing: SMITHS instruments restoring. The Smiths and Jaeger UK instruments are identical technically and optically except the brand name. One firm is Speedograph in the UK, but there are plenty others around the globe. Also have a look at www.caigauge.com , they may have new items. Kees Oudesluijs Dick Matson schreef: > Who does speedometer refurbishing. Would like to adjust it to new diff also. > > D Matson / Bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.39/2134 - Release Date: 05/25/09 18:14:00 From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue May 26 15:06:57 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 17:06:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Frame to Body Seal (Moss terminology) In-Reply-To: <48720d20905261048v6a29a6ebsa8724cc9e5665b2c@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20905261048v6a29a6ebsa8724cc9e5665b2c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A1C59F1.5050802@comcast.net> Jack, You can actually leave the pillars on the car and remove the frame and windshield from between them. Remove the 4 10-24 pan head screws on each side and it will pull out. It is a bit hard to keep from chipping the paint, but it will work. It is best to have a helper. Your other problem will be where to cut the seal, but if you keep it a bit long and then recut on the car, it should work. You will need a drift to force the windshield down and in place while you put the screws back in. Charlie Jack Feldman wrote: > The seal on my BT7 is all chewed up and needs to be replaced. Is there an > easy way to do this? > > Does it require both pillars to be removed to get the windscreen to elevate > for the seal to be placed? > > Thanks, > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue May 26 15:33:23 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 17:33:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground-Single lever jacks In-Reply-To: <59301088F30B470EAC05D55780337FE8@DANSTROM> References: <59301088F30B470EAC05D55780337FE8@DANSTROM> Message-ID: <000601c9de49$993c8930$cbb59b90$@net> Go to the Technical page of my site, scan down to the Miscellaneous listings and click on the link for raising a car onto jack stands. PDF complete with photos. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 4:54 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground-Single lever jacks If you jack up one end and then go to do the other end of the car with a single lever jack beware. The single arm jacks do not go straight up and can pull a car off the stands if the jack does not slide to compensate for the horizontal change the lever makes as it goes up. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dick Matson Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 10:34 AM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Getting Healey off the ground Yes. And some good wood blocking put in place after the car is on jack stands - before you start your work. A local guy here was crushed under a car just this past week. He was found deceased. That is two I know of now. And that my friend will spoil your whole day. From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue May 26 16:55:41 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:55:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Message-ID: I used North Hollywood Speedometer for my geared BN7 Speedo repair. Also for several of my other cars. No issues Richard of KY BN7 ------Original Message------ From: Dick Matson To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Sent: May 26, 2009 15:08 Who does speedometer refurbishing. Would like to adjust it to new diff also. D Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue May 26 17:01:27 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 19:01:27 EDT Subject: [Healeys] List Message-ID: Whats up with the list? I got no posts for several days, then a bunch this morning and none since. I am of course wondering why I am writing to the list if I think it is out but what else is one to do? Best--Michael Oritt **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 26 17:18:45 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:18:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> References: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> Message-ID: I've had VERY bad experiences with pretty much all rebuilders in the UK. Try nisonger. On 5/27/09, Oudesluys wrote: > Easily found by Google-ing: SMITHS instruments restoring. The Smiths and > Jaeger UK instruments are identical technically and optically except the > brand name. > One firm is Speedograph in the UK, but there are plenty others around > the globe. > Also have a look at www.caigauge.com , they may have new items. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Dick Matson schreef: >> Who does speedometer refurbishing. Would like to adjust it to new diff >> also. >> >> D Matson / Bj8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.39/2134 - Release Date: 05/25/09 >> 18:14:00 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue May 26 18:02:38 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:02:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] List References: Message-ID: <002801c9de5e$7341bd30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Michael, its perfectly OK to send emails to yourself, but I wouldn't let the www know about it. BTW, got ya loud an clear. List has been pretty steady here for the last couple of weeks. It seems to get a bit dingy in different areas at different times. Only the Master of the Domain knows for sure. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:01 PM Subject: [Healeys] List > Whats up with the list? I got no posts for several days, then a bunch > this morning and none since. > I am of course wondering why I am writing to the list if I think it is out > but what else is one to do? > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb > diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. > (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue May 26 18:24:39 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:24:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002401c9de61$86465500$92d2ff00$@net> Coming in to me on a steady basis for several days now since, I assume, Mark straightened out his ISP problems. Is there another AOL problem?? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:01 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] List Whats up with the list? I got no posts for several days, then a bunch this morning and none since. I am of course wondering why I am writing to the list if I think it is out but what else is one to do? Best--Michael Oritt From edmyed at harbornet.com Tue May 26 18:45:16 2009 From: edmyed at harbornet.com (Richard Bittmann) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 17:45:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] VALVE COVER RIVET SIZE Message-ID: I'm in need of the exact diameter and head shape of the rivets holding the valve cover plates for "AUSTIN" & "set rockers to ......012".....". Reply off list to edmyed at harbornet.com Thanks, Richard Bittmann BJ7 Tacoma From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 26 18:51:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:51:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael - I award you 1 Internets for effort. Welcome back (you hope!). On 5/27/09, Awgertoo at aol.com wrote: > Whats up with the list? I got no posts for several days, then a bunch > this morning and none since. > I am of course wondering why I am writing to the list if I think it is out > but what else is one to do? > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************We found the real b Hotel Californiab and the b Seinfeldb > diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. > (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue May 26 18:54:40 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 00:54:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] List Message-ID: Here in the heartland of Brit cars and Corvettes (Bowling Green, KY) and knock on plastic, I have had no issues receiving this site in probably a year or so. I do get lopped off on sent mails when over gigged by the webmeister . Richard of KY BN7 440 ------Original Message------ From: Mark LaPierre To: Awgertoo at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] List Sent: May 26, 2009 19:02 Michael, its perfectly OK to send emails to yourself, but I wouldn't let the www know about it. BTW, got ya loud an clear. List has been pretty steady here for the last couple of weeks. It seems to get a bit dingy in different areas at different times. Only the Master of the Domain knows for sure. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:01 PM Subject: [Healeys] List > Whats up with the list? I got no posts for several days, then a bunch > this morning and none since. > I am of course wondering why I am writing to the list if I think it is out > but what else is one to do? > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************We found the real b?Hotel Californiab? and the b?Seinfeldb? > diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. > (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004 ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 19:02:33 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:02:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Michael, I am breaking my own Rule in that you 'should' get TWO (2) of this message because I am NOT removing you from the Reply All "To:" box!! <> Several other autox Lists Members are having the EXACT same prob which DOES have ONE common denominator (as I have said PLENTY of times before) which IS: the POS AOL. NOTHING Mark can do about it either !!! Some of my 9issa Listers that have 'it' are currently ALSO complaining to me ref the same prob. Have not heard from any of my PolySci101 Listers (a List I am NOT on)!!! aol must have done some 'new & improved' mail "function addition". Sorry. Ed From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue May 26 19:31:08 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:31:08 EDT Subject: [Healeys] List Message-ID: To Ed and the several others who responded to my scream into the vastness--thanks for the replies which BTW I received only from The List. How Confusing!. Best--Michael ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------- In a message dated 5/26/2009 9:01:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, shop at justbrits.com writes: Michael, I am breaking my own Rule in that you 'should' get TWO (2) of this message because I am NOT removing you from the Reply All "To:" box!! **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) From edriver at sasktel.net Tue May 26 19:52:36 2009 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 19:52:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Charley Braum Message-ID: <4A1C9CE4.60901@sasktel.net> Please contact me Regards Ed From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 20:08:20 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:08:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Check your spam folder for my mail, Michael. I hear that from aolers and the other POS yahoo!! Me From rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net Tue May 26 20:10:42 2009 From: rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net (Reynaldo Navarro) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 19:10:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Instruments Message-ID: <630346.99374.qm@web180006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Dick, I have a complete Rebuilt set of Instruments for 67 BJ8 if intersted pls. call me 708-997-7380 Rey From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 20:14:49 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:14:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> That IS because hotmail DOES (pretty much) conform to the RFC Rules, Richard!!! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Tue May 26 20:16:59 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:16:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: <002801c9de5e$7341bd30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <> I hadn't realized Al Gore is on the List, Mark?!? Then again, I haven't checked the Membership lately. Anon From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue May 26 20:41:59 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 12:41:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> References: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1866@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Real Healeys were fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges and these are absolutely nothing like the Smiths gauges of the same period. MG TA, TB, TC and early TD were also fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges. To watch a chronometric gauge in action I find is a delight. If you want to read how chronometric gauges work have a look at: http://www.mg-tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with wonderful English Jaeger Chronometric gauges 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - fitted with modified AH100 Smiths gauges -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, 27 May 2009 7:03 AM To: Dick Matson Cc: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Easily found by Google-ing: SMITHS instruments restoring. The Smiths and Jaeger UK instruments are identical technically and optically except the brand name. One firm is Speedograph in the UK, but there are plenty others around the globe. Also have a look at www.caigauge.com , they may have new items. Kees Oudesluijs ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Tue May 26 21:20:04 2009 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:20:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I seem to remember issues with AOL and the list a few years ago. Michael and other AOL members, another reason to hate AOL is they use you for advertising. One of their "upgrades" turns on a footer that allows them to put ads in all the outgoing emails you send. Below is the ad that was attached to Michael's post. -----Original Message----- Best--Michael Oritt **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000004) From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Tue May 26 22:02:42 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 21:02:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1962 Austin Healey Sprite - $10000 (Lake Oswego) Message-ID: Nice, clean Sprite in Oregon http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1178791963.html From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Wed May 27 00:08:20 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 16:08:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] GOLDIE In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090527160820.18236zkn1w1qlx3o@webmail.hotkey.net.au> > From reading Ken Gregory's biography I learnt the following. Ken was Stirling Moss's personal assistant and at the same time he was the Donald Healey Motor Co. publicity officer. He proposed the specification we know as Goldie which was to be a motor show special. Donald at first resisted the idea and Ken felt this was a reaction to the likely cost. When Ken said "I already have a buyer for the car after the motor show" Donald gave it his full support! It is interesting the during this pewriod Ken Gregory always mentioned travelling about in his Sprite. ( a company car?) What a shrewed man that Donald was with his 'by association' promotions. From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Wed May 27 00:22:48 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 16:22:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie In-Reply-To: <000801c9de28$7c3dc1d0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <000801c9de28$7c3dc1d0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <20090527162248.96551ufwb3d5xq9k@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Quoting Peter Svilans : > I believe so, Ed. Harrisburg, was it ? > > I really liked Goldie's full-width cover panel behind the seats, Peter If you ever visit The Great Southern Land where Pat Quinn resides take the time to view Peter Jackson's 3000 race car. He has had made and fitted the most beautifully made metal cover similar to Goldie. The detail of this tonneau with its compound curves and so detailed returns around the edge where it is fitted over the door/cockpit alloy trims is a work of art. I stood in the pits at Bathurst races over Easter and just admired and smiled at the personal customedattention to detail. Joe Armour From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 27 02:19:30 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 10:19:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1866@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> References: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1866@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <4A1CF792.3010405@chello.nl> Thanks Patrick for the information. The article mentioned is very interesting. Were any AH's equiped with chronometric gauges? Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs Quinn, Patrick schreef: > G'day > > Real Healeys were fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges and these are absolutely nothing like the Smiths gauges of the same period. > > MG TA, TB, TC and early TD were also fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges. > > To watch a chronometric gauge in action I find is a delight. If you want to read how chronometric gauges work have a look at: > > http://www.mg-tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with wonderful English Jaeger Chronometric gauges > 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - fitted with modified AH100 Smiths gauges > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys > Sent: Wednesday, 27 May 2009 7:03 AM > To: Dick Matson > Cc: AustinHealey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 > > Easily found by Google-ing: SMITHS instruments restoring. The Smiths and > Jaeger UK instruments are identical technically and optically except the > brand name. > One firm is Speedograph in the UK, but there are plenty others around > the globe. > Also have a look at www.caigauge.com , they may have new items. > Kees Oudesluijs > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed May 27 04:28:05 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 06:28:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie Message-ID: <002301c9deb5$d24342c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Joe Its always been a dream to visit The Great Southern Land. Healey friends of ours spent a year in Oz on an exchange program and were completely smitten by your beautiful country, and as a reminder and celebration put an Australian-style sunporch all around their house. My wife's best friend from school lives in Sale near Melbourne, so there exists an incentive for a trip some day. I've always enjoyed precisely fitted metal panels with wired edges such as tonneau covers on vintage racers and engine cowlings on antique aircraft held on with 1/4- turn Dzus fasteners. Bare aluminum, old worn leather, smell of oil & gas, chronometric gauges... Peter From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Wed May 27 06:22:09 2009 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:22:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft For Sale In-Reply-To: <002301c9deb5$d24342c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <002301c9deb5$d24342c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <000601c9dec5$c1ed7ca0$45c875e0$@co@tx.rr.com> I have a Denis Welch DWR2 (CENG656/2) camshaft kit that is extra to my program and is for sale. Here is the link: http://bighealey.co.uk/content/new-camshaft-kits-0 The cam is a spare for me that has break in time on it only. The followers are numbered and matched to the cam. The followers are the light weight bucket type and require push rods that are longer than OEM (available from DW or locally). Please contact me off list if interested. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open Roads From josephtroutwine at cox.net Wed May 27 08:01:52 2009 From: josephtroutwine at cox.net (Joseph Troutwine) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [Mg-t] New PA legislation !!! FYI & FWIW In-Reply-To: <4A1C41F3.1040209@comcast.net> References: <4A1C41F3.1040209@comcast.net> Message-ID: Charlie, Slight clarification on your statement about PA inspections. The Classic tags have always required the regular annual inspection while the Antique tags did not require any inspection. This comes from someone who had both for many years prior to escaping PA for Arizona three years ago. Joe Troutwine 67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Baldwin" To: "Ed's Shop" ; "T series list" ; "healey list" Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:24 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Mg-t] New PA legislation !!! FYI & FWIW > Ed, > That is good news, but in PA "classic cars" are defined as 15 years or > older. "Antique cars" at 25 years or older, never did need to be > inspected. Pictures are required to get a car registered as an antique > and no state inspection is required after that. My daily driver Subaru > Alpine Sport wagon is 15 years old and I don't intend to put classic > tags on it because then the mileage will be limited. > Nowadays a 15 year old car doesn't really seem that old. My TD was 18 > years old when I bought it and seemed to be so far from a modern car, > even in 1970. My tricarb Healey was only 11 years old when I bought it > in '73 and again seemed ancient compared to the current cars. I have an > '85 RX7 also and even though it will be an "antique" next year, it could > easily be an everyday car today. I guess the Brits were a bit behind > the times. > Hard to believe in the current climate that the gov't would be letting > up on regs for cars. > Charlie > > Ed's Shop wrote: >> >From SEMA & for ALL Penseltuckians!!! >> >> Pennsylvania HB 1172: Classic vehicles would be exempt from needing a >> certificate of inspection before being registered. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as josephtroutwine at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From medlabinc at msn.com Wed May 27 08:29:09 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:29:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Spedometer Bj8 Message-ID: Thanks to all for Speedometer information. Patrick (Quinn): is 'Real Healeys' and 'Healeys' the same or different ? DM / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Quinn, Patrick To: 'Oudesluys' ; Dick Matson Cc: AustinHealey List Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 G'day Real Healeys were fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges and these are absolutely nothing like the Smiths gauges of the same period. MG TA, TB, TC and early TD were also fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges. To watch a chronometric gauge in action I find is a delight. If you want to read how chronometric gauges work have a look at: http://www.mg-tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with wonderful English Jaeger Chronometric gauges 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - fitted with modified AH100 Smiths gauges -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, 27 May 2009 7:03 AM To: Dick Matson Cc: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 Easily found by Google-ing: SMITHS instruments restoring. The Smiths and Jaeger UK instruments are identical technically and optically except the brand name. One firm is Speedograph in the UK, but there are plenty others around the globe. Also have a look at www.caigauge.com , they may have new items. Kees Oudesluijs From medlabinc at msn.com Wed May 27 08:33:17 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 07:33:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer Bj8 Message-ID: Thanks to all for Speedometer information. Patrick (Quinn): is 'Real Healeys' and 'Healeys' the same or different ? Also, thanks for JaegerChronometric link. I found it interesting. DM / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Quinn, Patrick> To: 'Oudesluys'> ; Dick Matson> Cc: AustinHealey List> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 G'day Real Healeys were fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges and these are absolutely nothing like the Smiths gauges of the same period. MG TA, TB, TC and early TD were also fitted with English Jaeger Chronometric gauges. To watch a chronometric gauge in action I find is a delight. If you want to read how chronometric gauges work have a look at: http://www.mg-tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html -tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html> Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with wonderful English Jaeger Chronometric gauges 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - fitted with modified AH100 Smiths gauges From michaelgladwin at mac.com Wed May 27 10:12:04 2009 From: michaelgladwin at mac.com (Michael Gladwin) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 12:12:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie In-Reply-To: <002301c9deb5$d24342c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <002301c9deb5$d24342c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: I live near to Healey Surgeons and whenever I am in buying odds and sods I always lift the skirt on Goldies' cover and get a quick flash of her gold wheels. Mike On May 27, 2009, at 6:28 AM, Peter Svilans wrote: > Joe > > Its always been a dream to visit The Great Southern Land. Healey > friends of > ours spent a year in Oz on an exchange program and were completely > smitten by > your beautiful country, and as a reminder and celebration put an > Australian-style sunporch all around their house. My wife's best > friend from > school lives in Sale near Melbourne, so there exists an incentive > for a trip > some day. > > I've always enjoyed precisely fitted metal panels with wired edges > such as > tonneau covers on vintage racers and engine cowlings on antique > aircraft held > on with 1/4- turn Dzus fasteners. Bare aluminum, old worn leather, > smell of > oil & gas, chronometric gauges... > > Peter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as michaelgladwin at mac.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed May 27 10:56:18 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 12:56:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie Message-ID: <001801c9deec$0e7c11f0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Speaking of wheels, I recall Goldie being driven quite spiritedly. I was a corner marshall at a gymkhana, and could hear spokes creaking and pinging under cornering stresses. I pointed it out to Bruce, and he said "yeah, we know, we keep a spare box of gold plated spokes on hand." During the interior work, we literally wore white cotton gloves so as not to mark the pale brown suede with fingerprints. It was immaculate. When Bruce and Inan picked the car up, they tossed the luggage in, jumped into it like into a Land Rover on the Dakar, and roared off into the pouring rain saying "these cars aren't meant to be coddled". Healey Surgeons' location is great ! Wasn't it an old Tucker dealership ? Best Peter From rotaryman at cox.net Wed May 27 11:07:03 2009 From: rotaryman at cox.net (patrick harris) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 10:07:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] john healeys passing Message-ID: <6C9B13A4474249DDAC7F8B27F725F6DD@FRYS> Heard from one of the San Diego members that John Healey passed away from Cancer last night. Another good guy gone. ph From shop at justbrits.com Wed May 27 11:36:07 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 12:36:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] New PA legislation !!! FYI & FWIW In-Reply-To: <4AF856E12D9F45BB8FF33486AF4CEAC3@OwnerPC> Message-ID: <> LMAO Bud in just thinkin' of one of those guys going over a MG TC or Austin 7 !!!! Ed From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu Wed May 27 11:47:34 2009 From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 10:47:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Nut on the Shock Mount Message-ID: Of the four bolts holding the shock in place on the left front, I have one that is stripped. I tried a new bolt and it spins. What steps are recommended to replace the threads on the nut side? Thanks, Michael BJ8 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed May 27 12:03:25 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:03:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sad News; John Healey passed away last night In-Reply-To: <001801c9deec$0e7c11f0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <001801c9deec$0e7c11f0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F31460CC@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Dear Members of the list I have just been informed that John Healey passed away last night. But cannot give anymore details so far. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 27 12:23:26 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:23:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Nut on the Shock Mount In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <46378776.12284851243448606755.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I've used thread inserts successfully (helicoil, etc.). It's a standard 3/8x24 ("fine") thread--which might be a little less common than "coarse"--but my favorite local parts house was able to order a kit for me. Works a treat. If it's one of the inboard nuts you might need a right-angle drill attachment and/or a stubby drill bit to avoid the inside of the fender well. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Hartfield" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 10:47:34 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Nut on the Shock Mount Of the four bolts holding the shock in place on the left front, I have one that is stripped. I tried a new bolt and it spins. What steps are recommended to replace the threads on the nut side? Thanks, Michael BJ8 From shop at justbrits.com Wed May 27 12:48:13 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 13:48:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] List In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> You ARE correct, Greg!! <> Again, YEP !! LOL One thing you 'missed' tho Greg, one PAYS for that 'upgrade' !!! LMAO Ed From mkgoodman at att.net Wed May 27 13:22:38 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:22:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Treads on shock Message-ID: <006801c9df00$810c70c0$83255240$@net> Dear Michael, I had that happen on my BJ8 over 38 years ago. The mechanic I used then just drilled and tapped to the next size up. When I put on the Billstein tube shock conversion kit by Mr. Putzke, which is a wonderful addition to any Healey, I had to purchase the proper bolts from McMaster Carr and ream out a few parts to get them to fit. I did the conversion last year, and the fix from 38 years ago has never been a problem. If it were not for the different head size on one shock, which I realize when I do my Spring tightening check of critical components, I would have forgotten about it. Mark From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed May 27 13:48:37 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 12:48:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Nut on the Shock Mount Message-ID: <00c501c9df04$2203d6f0$660b84d0$@com> Michael, There's a lot of discussion in the archives on this. From your description, am assuming captive nut is still attached but threads are stripped. If nut is loose skip directly to 3) or 4) Short version in order of ease: 1) Drill out and tap for metric 10mm bolt which is slightly larger diameter than orig 3/8-fine 2) Drill out and tap for 3/8-fine helicoil 3) See Tom's Toy Store for threaded plate which replaces all the captive nuts - probably could be done on one side only 4) Kilmartin adjustable shock tower plates - from British Car Specialist Note: 1) & 2) require right angle drill attachment. For 1) You may be able to directly tap the stripped hole with the metric tap. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA, USA BN6 Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 10:47:34 -0700 From: Michael Hartfield Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Nut on the Shock Mount To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Of the four bolts holding the shock in place on the left front, I have one that is stripped. I tried a new bolt and it spins. What steps are recommended to replace the threads on the nut side? Thanks, Michael BJ8 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 27 14:41:04 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 16:41:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Not Working BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002901c9df0b$78d180c0$6a748240$@rr.com> Hi, Jon - The fuel gauge electrical circuit in a BJ8 provides about 90 ohms resistance between the green/black wire and ground when the tank is full. The reading should be close to zero when the tank is empty. The green wire provides the 12 volt input to the gauge, and the green/black wire is the sending unit input. The terminals on the back of the gauge are marked T (for "Tank") and B (for "Battery"). As the gauge is installed in the dash, the B terminal is outboard and the T terminal is inboard. You do not want to short the gauge terminals together to check the needle. You can check the operation of the gauge by removing the sending unit from the tank and manually operating the float arm while monitoring the gauge. There is a good calibration/test procedure here, but note that it is for an MG gauge which uses 68 ohms as the maximum resistance: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:01 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Not Working BJ8 I have done some rewiring of the instruments and now find that the gas gage is not working. Have voltage to the gage but may have reversed the leads to the sender unit. When the tank if full, does the sender unit show the least resistance? If so, can I short across the instrument poles going to the sender unit to show a full tank and see if the needle moves? Thanks, Jon From theswed at hotmail.com Wed May 27 14:46:57 2009 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 13:46:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: Anyone on the list shipping a blue late model 3000 (maybe a '67) from New York to Pasadena? I encountered it in the SF Bay Area. Kenny '61 BT-7 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_WhatsNew1_052009 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed May 27 16:05:46 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 00:05:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone in Mille Milia Message-ID: <1EF4EFBA2B754B838FC0196C69789301@TM44> Watch it at 6:10 minute: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAzHJPwWqdc&feature=related :-) From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed May 27 16:40:54 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:40:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone in Mille Milia In-Reply-To: <1EF4EFBA2B754B838FC0196C69789301@TM44> References: <1EF4EFBA2B754B838FC0196C69789301@TM44> Message-ID: What is equally interesting is to note the driving uniforms. Many in short sleeves and the winner of the 1950 Mille Miglia in the Ferrari Saloon in what looks like a suit and tie (at 6:47). (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 3:05 PM Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone in Mille Milia > Watch it at 6:10 minute: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAzHJPwWqdc&feature=related > > > :-) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 17:54:18 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 09:54:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A186B@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Dick Yes it is an interesting site, if you are into instruments. When most people talk about Healeys you are actually referring to Austin-Healeys that were produced in partnership between Thompson Motor Pressings, Jensen Brothers and BMC. Very few ever saw the inside of the Donald Healey Motor Company. Healey cars were made between 1946 and 1954 at the Donald Healey Motor Company at Warwick. However it must be said that the DHMC did not make any of the bodies, however the chassis were made in-house and everything else was brought in. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dick Matson Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 12:29 AM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Spedometer Bj8 Thanks to all for Speedometer information. Patrick (Quinn): is 'Real Healeys' and 'Healeys' the same or different ? DM / Bj8 ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 18:14:39 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 10:14:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone in Mille Milia In-Reply-To: <1EF4EFBA2B754B838FC0196C69789301@TM44> References: <1EF4EFBA2B754B838FC0196C69789301@TM44> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A186D@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Of real interest to lovers of Healey History was that Healey Westland GWD 43 also took part in the 2009 Mille Miglia. This is the same car that Donald Healey drove in the 1948 Mille Miglia with Geoff Healey as co-driver. In that event they were way over 100mph when they struck a dog but still managed to finish 9th overall. Against such marques as Ferrari, Alfa Romeo and Maserati driven by the likes of Nuvolari, Ascari, Sanesi and Cortese it was a very credible finish. If you would like to see GWD 43 under restoration have a look at: http://www.classicrestorations.org.uk/index.php Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 8:06 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone in Mille Milia Watch it at 6:10 minute: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAzHJPwWqdc&feature=related ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Wed May 27 18:21:45 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 10:21:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Spedometer Bj8 In-Reply-To: <4A1CF792.3010405@chello.nl> References: <4A1C5910.6080401@chello.nl> <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1866@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> <4A1CF792.3010405@chello.nl> Message-ID: <20090528102145.29687ggwtenxlee1@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Quoting Oudesluys : > Thanks Patrick for the information. The article mentioned is very > interesting. Were any AH's equiped with chronometric gauges? > Cheers, > Kees Oudesluijs > Donald Healey Motor Co. built circuit race cars often had chronmetric style tachos fitted. The one I have access to also had a 'tell-tale' needle which could only be reset from the the engine bay or under the dash, this gave the team manager an accurate report on the maximum revs being used by the drivers From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed May 27 18:24:40 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:24:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Message-ID: <001201c9df2a$b0e5f210$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Patrick << however the chassis were made in-house >> Weren't all the Healey chassis made by Westland Aero Parts of Hereford, who also made the very first bodies ? Best Peter From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 18:40:04 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 10:40:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys In-Reply-To: <001201c9df2a$b0e5f210$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <001201c9df2a$b0e5f210$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1870@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Peter The Healey chassis were built in-house at the Donald Healey Motor Company. When they first set up after WW2 it was in part of a building that also made cement mixers. All Healey chassis were basically the same, either with lengths removed for the smaller (shorter) cars such as the Silverstone or lengths added for the longer cars such as the Tickford. At the beginning they had access to an 8ft folding machine which limited the length of the chassis. This meant that every Healey chassis has the same 8 foot long main chassis and bits were added (or deleted) to suit the specific bodywork. In my Healey Duncan there are extensions after the chassis and behind where it curves over the rear end, plus a fairly elaborate front structure to hold the bodywork. The first Healey had bodywork by Westland and in total there were 70 built with this body. Westland did not make the chassis. There is a quite an active club for real Healeys in the UK and the website is: http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Svilans Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 10:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Patrick << however the chassis were made in-house >> Weren't all the Healey chassis made by Westland Aero Parts of Hereford, who also made the very first bodies ? Best Peter ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From wmseverin at charter.net Wed May 27 19:04:52 2009 From: wmseverin at charter.net (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:04:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys In-Reply-To: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1870@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> References: <001201c9df2a$b0e5f210$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1870@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> Message-ID: <00a401c9df30$4ed97c30$ec8c7490$@net> And after the war, so many things were in short supply. Many of the cars produced used fasteners that Roger Menadue had saved during the war. > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick > Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 7:40 PM > To: 'Peter Svilans'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys > > G'day Peter > > The Healey chassis were built in-house at the Donald Healey Motor > Company. > When they first set up after WW2 it was in part of a building that also > made > cement mixers. All Healey chassis were basically the same, either with > lengths > removed for the smaller (shorter) cars such as the Silverstone or > lengths > added for the longer cars such as the Tickford. > > At the beginning they had access to an 8ft folding machine which > limited the > length of the chassis. This meant that every Healey chassis has the > same 8 > foot long main chassis and bits were added (or deleted) to suit the > specific > bodywork. > > In my Healey Duncan there are extensions after the chassis and behind > where it > curves over the rear end, plus a fairly elaborate front structure to > hold the > bodywork. > > The first Healey had bodywork by Westland and in total there were 70 > built > with this body. Westland did not make the chassis. > > There is a quite an active club for real Healeys in the UK and the > website > is: > > http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed May 27 20:07:21 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:07:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? Message-ID: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> Anyone getting this test? Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 20:16:14 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:16:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? In-Reply-To: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> References: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1876@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Dave I haven't received your message. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Porter Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 12:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? Anyone getting this test? Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au http://www.team.net/archive ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed May 27 20:18:21 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 22:18:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? In-Reply-To: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> References: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> Message-ID: <004001c9df3a$932f0800$b98d1800$@net> Nope. Did not get it. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Porter Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 10:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? Anyone getting this test? Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 27 20:33:46 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 19:33:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] still off grid? In-Reply-To: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> References: <1E83CE8FD6F34A439AA37B32C67F23F9@oscar> Message-ID: <4A1DF80A.2040005@comcast.net> I didn't get it either (California's too broke for email). bs Dave Porter wrote: > Anyone getting this test? > > Dave > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed May 27 20:34:18 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:34:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] off grid Message-ID: Got it. I checked my list settings (edit) and found a notice that there were too many bounces??? And was shut off. I think I'm back. Thanks for help, especially Ed ;~) frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed May 27 20:40:43 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:40:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] oK now that I have your attention Message-ID: <96D6DE4A47F34CF9954F6E9C1BCFC37C@oscar> For Sale in NJ 1966-67 BJ8 complete car, engine turns, typical rust at sills and rockers, fender bottoms. Floors and boot appear OK. Owner is desperate to sell quickly. He's asking $10,000.00 I can send preliminary photos TOMORROW. Mail me off list if you want to see them. Cheers! Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed May 27 21:12:19 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 23:12:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Message-ID: <000c01c9df42$1cb26a20$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Patrick, << Westland did not make the chassis >> Geoffrey Healey, in The Healey Story p.35 outlines how five serious faults were apparent in the early production chassis. The rectification modifications were to have been made but Roger Menadue found that this had not been done, apparently put off till the next production series of chassis: " DMH was very annoyed and sent Len (Hodges) down to Westland Aero Parts, WHO MADE THE CHASSIS, with instructions not to return until all modifications had been incorporated. The next task was to recall all the cars already built to Warwick and modify them to the same standard without alarming the owners." Its my understanding that Westland Aero Parts supplied the basic chassis which was built up with suspensions and Riley motors at the Cape, in the same way that Thompsons provided the basic rails to Jensen, who added the bulkheads and body, and then were assembled with suspensions and motors at Austins. Somewhere there is a reference to Peter Shelton of Westlands in Hereford stating that DMH had given him the contract to continue supplying chassis to the Cape despite many other bodybuilders now being used, as a reward for his early support of the Healey company. Maybe it was in a link in the "history" portion of the hideous fiberglass 1958 "Westland" for sale a while back, I can't quite remember. There is no doubt that the Cape had the facilities for producing their own chassis (with their 8 foot brake) in prototype and experimental (types A,B and C) form, but once production of hundreds of cars got underway, this was farmed out. Best regards Peter From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 21:31:27 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 13:31:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys In-Reply-To: <000c01c9df42$1cb26a20$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <000c01c9df42$1cb26a20$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A1879@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day Good to see that I am not the only person who thinks that 1958 Westland is hideous. I have read the same too, but have a look at the Association of Healey Owners website that says quite clearly the DHMC built their own chassis. Honestly I don't want to be critical of GCH, but quite a bit of stuff has been found in error through subsequent research. There were problems with the early chassis with cracking around the front suspension bracketry and that's why the modifications had to be undertaken. However I wouldn't say that A, B and C chassis were experimental as 500 were built. Mine is a B type and it escaped to New Zealand before any rectification was undertaken. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Svilans Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 1:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Patrick, << Westland did not make the chassis >> Geoffrey Healey, in The Healey Story p.35 outlines how five serious faults were apparent in the early production chassis. The rectification modifications were to have been made but Roger Menadue found that this had not been done, apparently put off till the next production series of chassis: " DMH was very annoyed and sent Len (Hodges) down to Westland Aero Parts, WHO MADE THE CHASSIS, with instructions not to return until all modifications had been incorporated. The next task was to recall all the cars already built to Warwick and modify them to the same standard without alarming the owners." Its my understanding that Westland Aero Parts supplied the basic chassis which was built up with suspensions and Riley motors at the Cape, in the same way that Thompsons provided the basic rails to Jensen, who added the bulkheads and body, and then were assembled with suspensions and motors at Austins. Somewhere there is a reference to Peter Shelton of Westlands in Hereford stating that DMH had given him the contract to continue supplying chassis to the Cape despite many other bodybuilders now being used, as a reward for his early support of the Healey company. Maybe it was in a link in the "history" portion of the hideous fiberglass 1958 "Westland" for sale a while back, I can't quite remember. There is no doubt that the Cape had the facilities for producing their own chassis (with their 8 foot brake) in prototype and experimental (types A,B and C) form, but once production of hundreds of cars got underway, this was farmed out. Best regards Peter ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed May 27 21:40:49 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:40:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Message-ID: <384414.23302.qm@web52411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> And that would answer a question that I had after looking at the Healey chassis under restoration on the Classic Restorations site. The chassis is constructed using spotwelds while I recall reading that the Healeys didn't get an electric welder until the 1960's, which I took to mean that they were only using gas up to that time. Best JK --- On Wed, 5/27/09, Peter Svilans wrote: > > << Westland did not make the chassis >> > > Geoffrey Healey, in The Healey Story p.35 outlines > how five serious faults > were apparent in the early production chassis. The > rectification > modifications were to have been made but Roger Menadue > found that this had not > been done, apparently put off till the next production > series of chassis: > " DMH was very annoyed and sent Len (Hodges) down to > Westland Aero Parts, WHO > MADE THE CHASSIS From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed May 27 22:09:46 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 14:09:46 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys In-Reply-To: <384414.23302.qm@web52411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <384414.23302.qm@web52411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01031A187A@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win> G'day To be honest the Healey chassis is quite crude and mostly held together by gas spot welds. The metal gauge is quite thin, but what makes it strong was its top hat construction. In otherwords an inverted U with a flat plate welded along the bottom. It makes the Austin-Healey chassis almost Rolls-Royce quality in comparison. There are no subframes in a Healey chassis, just two alloy uprights and steel outriggers along the outside to which the metal and timber are connected. There are also cross braces in the middle and tubular cross sections at the front. The connection of the bodywork is even worse with nails driven through the metalwork into the timber frame. The timber is held together with straight slot coarse thread coach screws, not unlike what I can buy at my local hardware store. Except they were never plated when new and rust dismally. However remember that this was in those post WW2 days when cars were just not available and DMH could command quite a high price for his cars. A rolling chassis alone was 850 Pounds while a complete Elliott saloon was 2,610 Pounds. Of course the 66 2/3 % sales tax on cars above 1,000 Pounds didn't help. The average weekly wage in the UK during 1948 was 3.9 Pounds or just over 200 Pounds per year. What made the Healey better than other cars was the way it handled. It did and still handle like a modern car, no doubt due to its electron alloy drop arm front suspension. This would have been extremely expensive to build. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jackson Krall Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 1:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys And that would answer a question that I had after looking at the Healey chassis under restoration on the Classic Restorations site. The chassis is constructed using spotwelds while I recall reading that the Healeys didn't get an electric welder until the 1960's, which I took to mean that they were only using gas up to that time. Best JK --- On Wed, 5/27/09, Peter Svilans wrote: > > << Westland did not make the chassis >> > > Geoffrey Healey, in The Healey Story p.35 outlines > how five serious faults > were apparent in the early production chassis. The > rectification > modifications were to have been made but Roger Menadue > found that this had not > been done, apparently put off till the next production > series of chassis: > " DMH was very annoyed and sent Len (Hodges) down to > Westland Aero Parts, WHO > MADE THE CHASSIS ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed May 27 22:15:19 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 00:15:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Message-ID: <005b01c9df4a$e9f9dc90$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Okay, Patrick, we'll just have to agree to disagree over this. Maybe I'm not communicating clearly here. There is no doubt whatsoever that Healeys made their own chassis at the Cape- there are a zillion photos of this activity taking place. I'm saying that the basic rails were welded up by Westlands and then supplied to Healeys, where they were built up into rolling chassis that were shipped out for bodies. Similar to what happened later with Thompsons. I didn't say ALL the hundreds of type A, B and C chassis were experimental, but meant that the facilities existed at the Cape for completely prototyping each new type of chassis from scratch as they were developed. Pre-production experimental type stuff to try things out for the next version. The AHO website just says "The company produced their own chassis and suspension". Well, okay. They did. I'm just saying they had help. I prefer the first-hand version by Geoffrey Healey himself. Best regards Peter From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 27 23:54:58 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 22:54:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Engineering Drawings Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090527225244.01fea360@pop.att.yahoo.com> Does anyone have or know where to find the drawings that were used to produce the sheet metal chassis parts? I have a PDF of the frame but there has to be more drawings of the various parts and pieces out there somewhere! Were they destroyed; does anyone have copies? As an architect I am curious. John '62 BT7 From peter.svilans at rogers.com Thu May 28 04:52:20 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 06:52:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Message-ID: <002a01c9df82$6057a930$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> For sure the DHMC legacy couldn't be in better hands, Patrick. Pleasure sparring with you. Best regards, Peter PS: It was at a British car flea market here in Canada that a young fellow showed me a brass body plate for the "other" Healey BN 3. Said that what was left of the car was sitting in his dad's farm field. Rick Regan and I went out to see it, and yes, the cows were brushing up against it. I still have photos of it somewhere. It was the BN 3 with the frame going over the rear axle (Emerson p.124): sitting really high, crude workmanship, really ugly. Rick bought it, and sold it on to Julian Aubanel, I believe. How it ended up on a farm field in Canada I'll never know. From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Thu May 28 05:47:43 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:47:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Sad news about John Healey In-Reply-To: <002a01c9df82$6057a930$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> References: <002a01c9df82$6057a930$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: I have just been sent an email from John Keener, Chairman of the Austin-Healey Club UK. This is below I also had a long chat with John at the HDC meeting where he was saying how well he was. He drove his Works 3000 up from Cornwall to Swindon, a journey of over 200 miles. He remarked how fast he was able to drive! Regards to all ********************* Dear All, Sorry to announce to those who haven't heard ,that John Healey passed away on Tuesday 26th. I was with him and Joy at the Healey Drivers Club meeting on 10th May and we had a laugh together. I have got a few words put on the website prior to obtaining an obituary in due course. Very sad John Keener -- John Harper From wmseverin at charter.net Thu May 28 06:58:45 2009 From: wmseverin at charter.net (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 07:58:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SOS the Shop move (or the never ending saga) Message-ID: <002c01c9df94$0989f600$1c9de200$@net> Y'all. Call out to the able bodied, those weak of mind and strong of back. The shop move continues. I can use all the help I can get. (really need it) If anyone's available Sat. and/or Sun this weekend, please let me know. (Central WI, one hour north of Milwaukee). Thanks. WST From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 28 07:01:42 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 06:01:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sad news about John Healey In-Reply-To: References: <002a01c9df82$6057a930$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: <4A1E8B36.70803@comcast.net> Please excuse my ignorance ... what relation was John to DMH? Was he active in the marque? bs John Harper wrote: > I have just been sent an email from John Keener, Chairman of the > Austin-Healey Club UK. This is below > > I also had a long chat with John at the HDC meeting where he was saying > how well he was. He drove his Works 3000 up from Cornwall to Swindon, a > journey of over 200 miles. He remarked how fast he was able to drive! > > Regards to all > > ********************* > Dear All, > Sorry to announce to those who haven't heard ,that > John Healey passed away on Tuesday 26th. > I was with him and Joy at the Healey Drivers Club meeting on 10th May > and we had a laugh together. I have got a few words put on the website > prior to obtaining an obituary in due course. > > Very sad John > Keener > -- > John Harper ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu May 28 09:18:39 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 08:18:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2 seater soft top installation Message-ID: After researching the archives and google: I saw this inquiry from previously but saw no response: Can anyone direct me to photos and instructions on installing a 2 seater soft top on the frame? I believe I have accumulated all the required parts now. Thanks, Richard of KY BN7 #440 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_WhatsNew1_052009 From medlabinc at msn.com Thu May 28 09:25:54 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 08:25:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Healeys Message-ID: Patrick: Viewing your e-mail and the link you included has begun to fill in a big gap in the Donald Healey story for me. Thank you ! Dick Matson / Cashmere, WA / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Quinn, Patrick To: 'Peter Svilans' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys G'day Peter The Healey chassis were built in-house at the Donald Healey Motor Company. When they first set up after WW2 it was in part of a building that also made cement mixers. All Healey chassis were basically the same, either with lengths removed for the smaller (shorter) cars such as the Silverstone or lengths added for the longer cars such as the Tickford. At the beginning they had access to an 8ft folding machine which limited the length of the chassis. This meant that every Healey chassis has the same 8 foot long main chassis and bits were added (or deleted) to suit the specific bodywork. In my Healey Duncan there are extensions after the chassis and behind where it curves over the rear end, plus a fairly elaborate front structure to hold the bodywork. The first Healey had bodywork by Westland and in total there were 70 built with this body. Westland did not make the chassis. There is a quite an active club for real Healeys in the UK and the website is: http://www.healeyowners.co.uk/ Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Svilans Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2009 10:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Patrick << however the chassis were made in-house >> Weren't all the Healey chassis made by Westland Aero Parts of Hereford, who also made the very first bodies ? Best Peter From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu May 28 10:02:50 2009 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 11:02:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Going Mobile cross country trip Message-ID: Having begun my trip in The Bloody Beast in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware on May 10, I have now traveled up US 101 to Victoria, and am now in Montana on my return trip home to Virginia. Other than a small electrical problem related to the starter solenoid and some carb adjustments for elevation the car has behaved beautifully so far. My sincere thanks to David Nock who took a call on Sunday. His advice and the suggestions I received from a number of you kept me right on schedule without missing a beat. Thank you David! Big sky tonight! Lin Rose Sent from my iPhone From quenty at ntelos.net Thu May 28 10:54:23 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:54:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Top. Message-ID: <21B43A41-5DB0-4CB4-9441-14836E084987@ntelos.net> Here are some pictures of an assembled top as I took it apart. The bare top bows, I think are yours. A Little time back there were some pictures on this Healey mail list, showing how the vinyl was applied to the Windshield Header wood. I carefully saved them some where, now I can't find them. If someone sends them to you, please forward. I'm also just now starting to install my top. Good Luck Dave and Daisy DSCN2311 DSCN2312 DSCN2313 DSCN2314 DSCN2315 DSCN2316 DSCN2317 DSCN2318 DSCN2319 DSCN2320 DSCN2321 DSCN2322 DSCN2323 DSCN2324 DSCN2325 DSCN2326 DSCN2327 DSCN2328 DSCN2329 DSCN2330 DSCN2696 DSCN1548.JPG DSCN1551.JPG DSCN1552.JPG DSCN1553.JPG DSCN1554.JPG DSCN3222.JPG From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu May 28 11:04:20 2009 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 13:04:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey on eBay Message-ID: <4A51991C-BAE7-486D-8DC6-BBD26D20A10A@gmail.com> Beware of the '53 Nash Healey for sale on eBay. The owner is very surprised to see his car listed, pictured and with incorrect info. :-) Randy Hicks From robertlarson at att.net Thu May 28 12:15:18 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 14:15:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools Message-ID: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> Someone just recently was looking for Whitworth tools but I don't save or have the e-mail. Here is a deal I stumbled across and purchased: http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=BBB1 I just got a set of the 11 pieces for $22 plus $11 shipping. Not Snap-On or Proto but seems a decent addition to the tool box for the money. Also will not cause a heart attack when one disappears into the black hole in the frame rails..... Bob 55BN1 From robertlarson at att.net Thu May 28 13:03:07 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 15:03:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1EDFEB.8080100@att.net> Yes, that is correct. However, in the ones I received the plating faults were very minor and they certainly are quite usable. Agreed, will not replace wrenches in all cases but wrenches will not always replace sockets either. A different level of quality might be necessary for someone like you that makes his living with the tools and those of as Merle Haggard put it are, "Shade Tree Mechanics". Years ago I split a Snap-On socket. The so called lifetime guarantee was useless as they could no longer replace it. So even a defective $2 throw away socket might not be a bad deal overall. Bob Ed's Shop wrote: > Geesh, DEFECTIVE to start with, Bob!! LOL > > <> > > Won't take the place of wrenchs tho!! Which I DO sell!! > > Ed From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu May 28 13:07:28 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 19:07:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?inop_tach?= Message-ID: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach will not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of wiring anomoly. the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least it is like mine) and is grounded . any ideas? hjim From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu May 28 13:18:09 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Top. In-Reply-To: <21B43A41-5DB0-4CB4-9441-14836E084987@ntelos.net> References: <21B43A41-5DB0-4CB4-9441-14836E084987@ntelos.net> Message-ID: resending as webmeister stopped it as too large From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com To: quenty at ntelos.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: BN7 Top. Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:02:43 -0700 Yes, that is my top bow as well; I saw an old torn version of the soft top last year but what a mess and it offered few clues. I am starting from scratch. I tried to find the pictures attaching the vinyl to the top bow and recall it may have been in the Healey magazine awhile ago. But I can't find them at the moment either. Hopefully someone has them. I sense there are several folks looking for them as well. Many thanks, as your shots are very helpful. Richard of KY BN7 #440 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_WhatsNew1_052009 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 28 13:29:19 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:29:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] inop tach In-Reply-To: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <457419DF-6265-4A2A-8F3E-FB58B924E89D@sbcglobal.net> The loop needs reversed David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 28, 2009, at 12:07 PM, wrote: > my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach > will not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of > wiring anomoly. the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least > it is like mine) and is grounded . any ideas? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu May 28 13:28:19 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 15:28:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] inop tach References: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> <457419DF-6265-4A2A-8F3E-FB58B924E89D@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1E6D162730EA4920A99F81E5FF0D0918@ophrdc.org> I have exactly the same problem and the loop has been tried both ways. The tach works fine on a bench test. It's a fresh rebuild done by Nissongers. It's got an excellent earth which has been confirmed. The wiring has proper continuity. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock" To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] inop tach > The loop needs reversed > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On May 28, 2009, at 12:07 PM, wrote: > >> my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach >> will not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of >> wiring anomoly. the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least >> it is like mine) and is grounded . any ideas? hjim >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu May 28 14:47:40 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 16:47:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Going Mobile cross country trip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As you may know, I am a BIG fan of cross-country trips in an Austin-Healey. I'm glad you are doing yours and would love to see some pix and hear the whole story of your trip. The Cross-Country Caravan for Kids in 2008 took me from home in NC, to Vermont for a kick-off and then to San Diego for Conclave. Zero problems in 7421 miles. I'm going to Conclave again this year, but family accompanying me means no Silver Bullet this time. First non-Healey Conclave trip for me since 1996. I'm going to make up for that with a trip this fall in the Bullet to Bonneville to see the A-H replica Streamliner & Endurance car run. GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "Linwood H Rose" Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:02 PM To: "healeylist" Subject: [Healeys] Going Mobile cross country trip > Having begun my trip in The Bloody Beast in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware on > May 10, I have now traveled up > US 101 to Victoria, and am now in Montana on my return trip home to > Virginia. Other than a small electrical problem related to the starter > solenoid and some carb adjustments for elevation the car has behaved > beautifully so far. My sincere thanks to David Nock who took a call on > Sunday. His advice and the suggestions I received from a number of you > kept me right on schedule without missing a beat. Thank you David! Big > sky tonight! > > Lin Rose > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 28 15:27:57 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 23:27:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] inop tach In-Reply-To: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <4A1F01DD.4010404@chello.nl> Do you have electronic ingnition perhaps? Kees Oudesluijs healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef: > my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach will not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of wiring anomoly. the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least it is like mine) and is grounded . any ideas? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.43/2138 - Release Date: 05/27/09 18:21:00 From Awgertoo at aol.com Thu May 28 16:11:45 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 18:11:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold for Longbridge 100-6 Message-ID: A friend of mine is looking for a replacement exhaust manifold for his Longbridge 100-6. His name is John Hummer, his phone is 443-250-1278 and his email address is _humdog5191 at yahoo.com_ (mailto:humdog5191 at yahoo.com) . Best--Michael Oritt **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve -Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml cntnew00000007) From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 28 16:53:24 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 06:53:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] inop tach In-Reply-To: <1E6D162730EA4920A99F81E5FF0D0918@ophrdc.org> References: <20090528190728.21513.qmail@server278.com> <457419DF-6265-4A2A-8F3E-FB58B924E89D@sbcglobal.net> <1E6D162730EA4920A99F81E5FF0D0918@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Rich / Jim - Jim - reverse the loop. Second, is the loop tight? It should be. Third - some people have looped it twice to boost the signal. Also check power and ground circuit also. By the way, all connections along this wire need to be properly soldered - crimp connections are no good. This wire gets more current load than any other wire in the the car, and if not well put together you will not properly energize the coil and over time crimp connections will build up surface corrosion and the car will eventually stop running. Good Luck - Alan On 5/29/09, Rich C wrote: > I have exactly the same problem and the loop has been tried both ways. The > tach works fine on a bench test. It's a fresh rebuild done by Nissongers. > It's got an excellent earth which has been confirmed. The wiring has proper > continuity. > > Rich Chrysler > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Nock" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:29 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] inop tach > > >> The loop needs reversed >> >> >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca 95205 >> 209-948-8767 >> >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> . >> . >> >> On May 28, 2009, at 12:07 PM, wrote: >> >>> my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach >>> will not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of >>> wiring anomoly. the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least >>> it is like mine) and is grounded . any ideas? hjim >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 28 16:57:03 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 06:57:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> References: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> Message-ID: Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. On 5/29/09, Bob wrote: > Someone just recently was looking for Whitworth tools but I don't save > or have the e-mail. Here is a deal I stumbled across and purchased: > > http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=BBB1 > > > I just got a set of the 11 pieces for $22 plus $11 shipping. Not > Snap-On or Proto but seems a decent addition to the tool box for the > money. Also will not cause a heart attack when one disappears into the > black hole in the frame rails..... > > Bob > > 55BN1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 28 17:01:41 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 23:01:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <898571704.12883301243551701158.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> However, a 13/16" socket works just dandy on the banjo bolts. bs Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 28 17:31:20 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 19:31:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools References: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> Message-ID: ... besides, they look the bees knees in the toolbox and neighbours will think you are deeply into the obscure end of the car scene. Mirek BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 6:57 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools > Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... > All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't > properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. > > On 5/29/09, Bob wrote: >> Someone just recently was looking for Whitworth tools but I don't save >> or have the e-mail. Here is a deal I stumbled across and purchased: >> >> http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=BBB1 >> >> >> I just got a set of the 11 pieces for $22 plus $11 shipping. Not >> Snap-On or Proto but seems a decent addition to the tool box for the >> money. Also will not cause a heart attack when one disappears into the >> black hole in the frame rails..... >> >> Bob >> >> 55BN1 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 28 18:04:19 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 08:04:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: <898571704.12883301243551701158.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <898571704.12883301243551701158.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Ok ok, but 2 and 4 BA spanners / sockets on the throttle shafts are useful! On 5/29/09, Bob Spidell wrote: > However, a 13/16" socket works just dandy on the banjo bolts. > > bs > > > > > > > > Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... > All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't > properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. > > > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 28 18:07:35 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 17:07:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold for Longbridge 100-6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <10192499-B014-4E22-9D80-02B7329A1EC1@sbcglobal.net> We have a good set of these available. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 28, 2009, at 3:11 PM, Awgertoo at aol.com wrote: > A friend of mine is looking for a replacement exhaust manifold for his > Longbridge 100-6. > His name is John Hummer, his phone is 443-250-1278 and his email > address > is _humdog5191 at yahoo.com_ (mailto:humdog5191 at yahoo.com) . > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the > bSeinfeldb > diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. > (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/ > 355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve > -Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml > cntnew00000007) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu May 28 18:44:22 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:44:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wanted: ATC7262 Message-ID: <4A1F2FE6.9000508@earthlink.net> Listers, I'm looking for a pair of used splined differential gears that the rear axles slide into. Splines should be good, don't care about the gear teeth. (3000 axle) Bob From kentmclean at comcast.net Thu May 28 19:00:13 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:00:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] inop tach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A1F339D.1060308@comcast.net> healeymanjim wrote: > my brother just put a new wiring harness in his bj8 and the tach will > not work. works fine in another bj8 so it is some kind of wiring anomoly. > the loop goes around the post correctly,(at least it is like mine) and is > grounded . any ideas? WAG: tach rewired for negative ground? It fails in the new positively ground harness, but works in the other negatively-ground car. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu May 28 19:10:06 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:10:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Need BT7 photos Message-ID: <010101c9dffa$361ba810$a252f830$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - I am working via e-mail with a lady in the Czech Republic who is restoring a BT7. She needs some photos illustrating the original configuration of the car (we have not yet been able to identify the VIN, but it's a BT7). Can someone send me some digital photos showing the details of front, sides, rear, convertible top, interior upholstery, and dash? Thanks very much! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 28 19:16:20 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 09:16:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: References: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> Message-ID: Mirek - Anyone with a set of "King Dick" spanners in their kit is manly. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > ... besides, they look the bees knees in the toolbox and neighbours will > think you are deeply into the obscure end of the car scene. > > Mirek > BT7 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 6:57 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools > > > Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... >> All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't >> properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. From bighealey at charter.net Thu May 28 19:19:47 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 18:19:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car Message-ID: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> Go John Fenrich ! Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car News On 6 - Tulsa,OK,USA John Fenrich listens to Jan Dean and the Beach Boys while driving his 1960 Austin Healey Sprite. It's like a way-back machine with wheels. ... Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org From shop at justbrits.com Thu May 28 19:21:14 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:21:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Whilst THAT statement IS correct Alan, BSF & BA are WAY different than Whitworth !!! Ed From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 28 19:26:03 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 09:26:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Need BT7 photos In-Reply-To: <010101c9dffa$361ba810$a252f830$@rr.com> References: <010101c9dffa$361ba810$a252f830$@rr.com> Message-ID: Steve - My wife is Slovak so if you need any translation help, let me know. Just send the text to me and I can have it translated. You should start with John Sim's site: http://www.healey6.com/important_links.htm Which has several links to BT7 restorations, including Lin's beautiful car: http://web.mac.com/linwoodrose/My_AH_3000_BT7_/Home.html Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 9:10 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > I am working via e-mail with a lady in the Czech Republic who is restoring > a > BT7. She needs some photos illustrating the original configuration of the > car (we have not yet been able to identify the VIN, but it's a BT7). Can > someone send me some digital photos showing the details of front, sides, > rear, convertible top, interior upholstery, and dash? > > Thanks very much! > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Thu May 28 19:48:55 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 11:48:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car In-Reply-To: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> References: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> Message-ID: <20090529114855.20794og2zhxnub5z@webmail.hotkey.net.au> > Owasso Man Turns Back > Time With Vintage Car > News On 6 - Tulsa,OK,USA > John Fenrich listens to Jan Dean and the Beach Boys while driving his 1960 > Austin Healey Sprite. It's like a way-back machine with wheels. ... > > >TRACY What about Peter,Paul & Mary singing about their 'car song' - at the lights in their AH Sprite with vocals doing the BMC A-Series sound. Then George Thorogood and The Delaware Destroyers song, with words 'she is as classy as an AH chassis' > > Links: ------ [1] http://www.newson6.com/Global/story.asp?S=10440255 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu May 28 19:22:46 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:22:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Need BT7 photos In-Reply-To: <010101c9dffa$361ba810$a252f830$@rr.com> References: <010101c9dffa$361ba810$a252f830$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002101c9dffb$f94e8db0$ebeba910$@net> Take a look at Linwood Rose's site for excellent photos: http://web.mac.com/linwoodrose/My_AH_3000_BT7_/Home.html John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 9:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Need BT7 photos Hello, Healeyphiles - I am working via e-mail with a lady in the Czech Republic who is restoring a BT7. She needs some photos illustrating the original configuration of the car (we have not yet been able to identify the VIN, but it's a BT7). Can someone send me some digital photos showing the details of front, sides, rear, convertible top, interior upholstery, and dash? Thanks very much! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu May 28 22:39:20 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:39:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools In-Reply-To: References: <4A1ED4B6.5080909@att.net> Message-ID: While I agree that King Dick spanners is perhaps the greatest tool name in history, I can tell you from experience that if you want people to oooh and aaaah over your tool box you need to get a set of anodized aluminum AN wrenches. Like these http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400304+303689+115&autoview=sku Rick On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mirek - > > Anyone with a set of "King Dick" spanners in their kit is manly. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Mirek Sharp > wrote: > > > ... besides, they look the bees knees in the toolbox and neighbours will > > think you are deeply into the obscure end of the car scene. > > > > Mirek > > BT7 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" > > > To: ; > > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 6:57 PM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools > > > > > > Incidentally - all British car owners should have a set of these... > >> All fittings on the fuel system are whitworth and many times you can't > >> properly seal up the fuel system without a WW spanner. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From charlieoc at comcast.net Fri May 29 04:53:12 2009 From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 06:53:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car In-Reply-To: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> References: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> Message-ID: <024601c9e04b$aa193ec0$fe4bbc40$@net> Great story for kicking off British Car Week! Charlie O'Connors Tallahassee -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 9:20 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car Go John Fenrich ! Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car News On 6 - Tulsa,OK,USA John Fenrich listens to Jan Dean and the Beach Boys while driving his 1960 Austin Healey Sprite. It's like a way-back machine with wheels. ... Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as charlieoc at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri May 29 06:22:36 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 07:22:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car In-Reply-To: <20090529114855.20794og2zhxnub5z@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <4F83A5D1535E4135B698F9453270F5F0@TRACY> <20090529114855.20794og2zhxnub5z@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <001801c9e058$27413ae0$75c3b0a0$@net> Actually, the Car Song was written and released by Woody Guthrie in 1954. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUDtFdnn9oQ It is just one of many songs Pete Paul and Mary "borrowed" from others. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 8:49 PM To: Tracy Drummond Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Owasso Man Turns Back Time With Vintage Car > Owasso Man Turns Back > Time With Vintage Car > News On 6 - Tulsa,OK,USA > John Fenrich listens to Jan Dean and the Beach Boys while driving his 1960 > Austin Healey Sprite. It's like a way-back machine with wheels. ... > > >TRACY What about Peter,Paul & Mary singing about their 'car song' - at the lights in their AH Sprite with vocals doing the BMC A-Series sound. Then George Thorogood and The Delaware Destroyers song, with words 'she is as classy as an AH chassis' From dthall at btinternet.com Fri May 29 07:14:19 2009 From: dthall at btinternet.com (dthall at btinternet.com) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 13:14:19 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools Message-ID: <215617.12412.qm@web86404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Ed Totally agree that BSW (British Standard Whitworth) and BSF (British Standard Fine) are different, however most spanners King dick, Britool, tipco eg are inscribed with both BSW and BSF. For example 1/4" BSW is the same accross flats dimension as 5/16" BSF. This 1/16 extends right up the scale. There are still plenty of good quality Whit/BSF to be found on car boot sales in the UK, it's like going to a swapmeet your way to get Snap on/MAC. Regards David David Hall --- On Fri, 29/5/09, Ed's Shop wrote: From: Ed's Shop Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100's & Whitworth tools To: Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Friday, 29 May, 2009, 2:21 AM <> Whilst THAT statement IS correct Alan, BSF & BA are WAY different than Whitworth !!! Ed Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dthall at btinternet.com http://www.team.net/archive From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri May 29 08:18:51 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 08:18:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: On and off topic for sale Message-ID: <9235F9813422473E99A1CBDA8FC71EAA@oscar> Not sure if this got through when I was "off the grid" ( due to excessive bounced mails- unclear how that happened) so I thought I'd re-post this For Sale items. Need a bail out and not from Washington. Dave Folks, As some of you know I build bicycles in addition to the car business and I have built a tandem bike for an attempt to break an old (1980) record. The economy is pretty weak (sucks) at the moment and I need to quickly raise some money for the attempt next month. So, I'm offering a really nice Bugeye up for sale and or a custom bike. The two tinyurl links below will take you to the pictures. The bike is a top shelf road bike and you buy the bits and I throw in the fame for free. Let's call it $1650.00 US It's a 58cm x 58.5cm Columbus Spirit frame set ( fine grained doped Niobium-steel) Very light, very strong, very responsive. Very collectible/ridible. The Bugeye is a '59 948cc nearly dead stock. It has nearly all the right stuff and is absolutely rust free. Not a show winner, but damn close. Please contact me off list if you are a serious buyer. Thanks for looking, the car link goes to my Picasa gallery-ONLY the Sprite is for Sale and the Green Bike. Dave http://tinyurl.com/cskmtg http://tinyurl.com/dk5nag frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From billunc at gmail.com Fri May 29 09:56:14 2009 From: billunc at gmail.com (Bill B) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 11:56:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 Message-ID: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> hello healey listers: may need a brake servo for 1967 bj8...any for sale on the list? clues as to where to find one cheap? kits to rebuild? much obliged Bill Browning charlotte From billunc at gmail.com Fri May 29 11:04:28 2009 From: billunc at gmail.com (Bill B) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 13:04:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo for '67 bj8 Message-ID: <35dbb5b40905291004s346b97b8g3943e9d702a4f83b@mail.gmail.com> Looking for a cheap brake servo for '67 bj8 Any lister have one for sale or know of where I can get one? New or used Many thanks Bill browning Charlotte Cell 704-408-2711 On 5/29/09, Dave Porter wrote: > Not sure if this got through when I was "off the grid" ( due to excessive > bounced mails- unclear how that happened) so I thought I'd re-post this For > Sale items. > > Need a bail out and not from Washington. > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > Folks, > > As some of you know I build bicycles in addition to the car business and I > have built a tandem bike for an attempt to break an old (1980) record. > > The economy is pretty weak (sucks) at the moment and I need to quickly raise > some money for the attempt next month. > > So, I'm offering a really nice Bugeye up for sale and or a custom bike. The > two tinyurl links below will take you to the pictures. > > The bike is a top shelf road bike and you buy the bits and I throw in the > fame for free. Let's call it $1650.00 US It's a 58cm x 58.5cm Columbus > Spirit frame set > > ( fine grained doped Niobium-steel) Very light, very strong, very > responsive. Very collectible/ridible. > > The Bugeye is a '59 948cc nearly dead stock. It has nearly all the right > stuff and is absolutely rust free. Not a show winner, but damn close. Please > contact me off list if you are > > a serious buyer. > > Thanks for looking, the car link goes to my Picasa gallery-ONLY the Sprite > is for Sale and the Green Bike. > > Dave > > > > > > http://tinyurl.com/cskmtg > > > > http://tinyurl.com/dk5nag > > > > > > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as billunc at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Fri May 29 12:45:26 2009 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 11:45:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brush chrome kits Message-ID: <000601c9e08d$a229aaa0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> Someone on the list in the past may have tried these kits. This uses a brush to apply chrome to small parts. I am wondering if this would work to repair chrome. IE: I chip a section of chrome off a new plating piece. Could I repair it with this brush system, or is it all hype? Jerry Dying to know From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri May 29 13:18:42 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 15:18:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 References: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Bill, If yours is complete and not physically damaged it can be rebuilt. If a unit is actually needed, check out the Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger listings on Ebay. The Alpine had the same hydraulic body, just the size of the vacuum chamber was different, and maybe yours can be used. The Tiger's servo was exactly the same as the BJ8's, chamber and all. I've found two good ones going this route. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill B" To: Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 11:56 AM Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 > hello healey listers: > may need a brake servo for 1967 bj8...any for sale on the list? clues as > to > where to find one cheap? kits to rebuild? > > much obliged > > Bill Browning > charlotte > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Fri May 29 13:46:19 2009 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 12:46:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 References: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> <200905291226250.SM01280@wavecable.net> Message-ID: <000601c9e096$231dedd0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/AH%20BN1-BJ8--Braking%20Components/8258/Brake%20Booster%20Kit%20%208%26quot%3B%20AH%20Jaguar this one works and resonably priced. Jerry BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 29 14:07:08 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:07:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brush chrome kits In-Reply-To: <000601c9e08d$a229aaa0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> References: <000601c9e08d$a229aaa0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> Message-ID: <4A20406C.9050509@chello.nl> I do not think you can repair damaged chrome succesfully with these kits. One of our members has used chrome paint spray on his car very succefully, but he sprayed the complete parts like bumbers, doorhandels, grille etc. It is amazingly real looking. However I am sure that when you have a chrome part partially chrome painted you will see the difference. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jerry Costanzo schreef: > Someone on the list in the past may have tried these kits. This uses a brush > to apply chrome to small parts. I am wondering if this would work to repair > chrome. IE: I chip a section of chrome off a new plating piece. Could I > repair it with this brush system, or is it all hype? > > Jerry > Dying to know > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.44/2140 - Release Date: 05/28/09 18:09:00 From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri May 29 14:14:21 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 15:14:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Headroom and Brake Pedals answered Message-ID: <48720d20905291314y14d35babpba99b9c492518833@mail.gmail.com> Folks, I had two previous posts in which I asked for shared knowledge. Naturally, you folks came through like the champions you are. *Hardtop headroom:* Some folks reminded me that the replacement seat foams are inches thicker than the old ones. On the MGC, when I did a replacement, I had trouble getting under the steering wheel. Had the thing taken apart and cut down, and it is still close, but OK. My 6ft+ son still has trouble. The Healey is a bigger car, and I had no trouble after the seat rebuild until the Hardtop. Now I know I can have the seat taken apart and cut down. I don't plan to use the HT that often, so the set will remain the way it is. *Clutch pedal problem: *I damaged the Healey when my foot slipped off the clutch and the car crashed in the garage. I asked for some suggestions, and someone (Linwood?} suggested racing pedals from Dennis Welch. They were expensive, but work great. Once I removed the standard pedals I realized another reason for my foot slipping off. The pedals are arced, and your foot only contact a portion of the pedal. The Welch pedals are only slightly wider and flatter than the standard ones, but are metal, and have little projections, like th ones in a strawberry jar, that grip the sole and make it almost impossible for the foot to slip. Too bad the designers of the MGB made the pedal part of the levers, or I would be getting them for the B&C, even if I have't had any trouble. Thanks to you all for help and lively discussions. Jack 60 BT7 69 MGC 72 MGB (much modified for cumfort and roadability) And I love them all!* * From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 29 14:17:43 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:17:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 In-Reply-To: <000601c9e096$231dedd0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> References: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> <200905291226250.SM01280@wavecable.net> <000601c9e096$231dedd0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> Message-ID: <4A2042E7.7050503@chello.nl> This one is exactly the same and will be a lot cheaper including the shipping. I bought several brake servo's from them in the past. No problems. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jerry Costanzo schreef: > http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/AH%20BN1-BJ8--Braking%20Components/8258/Brake%20Booster%20Kit%20%208%26quot%3B%20AH%20Jaguar > > > this one works and resonably priced. > > Jerry > BJ8 _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.44/2140 - Release Date: 05/28/09 18:09:00 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 29 14:43:07 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:43:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 In-Reply-To: <000601c9e096$231dedd0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> References: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> <200905291226250.SM01280@wavecable.net> <000601c9e096$231dedd0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net> Message-ID: <4A2048DB.4070808@chello.nl> Now with link!! This one is exactly the same and will be a lot cheaper even including the shipping. I bought several brake servo's from them in the past. No problems. Kees Oudesluijs NL http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Servo-Kit-Lotus-Elan-2_W0QQitemZ390050227655QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad0ce25c7&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A30 Jerry Costanzo schreef: > http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/AH%20BN1-BJ8--Braking%20Components/8258/Brake%20Booster%20Kit%20%208%26quot%3B%20AH%20Jaguar > > > this one works and resonably priced. > > Jerry From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri May 29 14:57:53 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 16:57:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 In-Reply-To: References: <35dbb5b40905290856x3d7e8adcpac846a1bba3e1ea7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A204C51.80707@comcast.net> Another source may be from Volvo 122S station wagons. Most Volvo people just remove them or bypass them when they go bad. There doesn't seem to be much difference in braking effort without them. I don't have a BJ8 to compare to, but do a Volvo unit lying out in my garage that I removed from my 122S wagon when it kept sucking the brake fluid into the engine. I have a friend that has two warehouses full of old Volvos with many wagons, so he may have some lying around too. If someone would tell me what to measure, I can check it out and also take a picture of the one that I have. Charlie Rich C wrote: > Bill, > > If yours is complete and not physically damaged it can be rebuilt. If > a unit is actually needed, check out the Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger > listings on Ebay. The Alpine had the same hydraulic body, just the > size of the vacuum chamber was different, and maybe yours can be used. > The Tiger's servo was exactly the same as the BJ8's, chamber and all. > I've found two good ones going this route. > > Rich Chrysler > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill B" > To: > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 11:56 AM > Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 > > >> hello healey listers: >> may need a brake servo for 1967 bj8...any for sale on the list? clues >> as to >> where to find one cheap? kits to rebuild? >> >> much obliged >> >> Bill Browning >> charlotte >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 29 18:23:14 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 20:23:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay Message-ID: <000801c9e0bc$d2c55130$784ff390$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - eBay item 230345956033 appears to be a scam to me. This car was offered on eBay in May 2004 by Phil Newey Cars in California and was subsequently repainted from blue (with red interior) to white over red. The current eBay offering out of McDonough, Georgia is using the same photos and description as in 2004. Buy it now for only $10K. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat May 30 00:04:29 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 06:04:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?addendum_to_tach_problem?= Message-ID: <20090530060429.9709.qmail@server278.com> going down freeway yesterday at about 70 mph and noticed that tach was intermittently registering about 1500 to about 2000 rpm. would quit for a while then crank up again at highway speed, estimating 2800-3000 rpm. should i reverse the loop? hjim From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat May 30 06:29:17 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 08:29:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] addendum to tach problem In-Reply-To: <20090530060429.9709.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090530060429.9709.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <000701c9e122$4076b970$c1642c50$@rr.com> Jim, if the loop is backwards for the polarity of the car, the tach wouldn't work at all. Sounds to me as if you have an intermittent wiring/connection problem. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 2:04 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] addendum to tach problem going down freeway yesterday at about 70 mph and noticed that tach was intermittently registering about 1500 to about 2000 rpm. would quit for a while then crank up again at highway speed, estimating 2800-3000 rpm. should i reverse the loop? hjim _______________________________________________ From al at bighealey.org Sat May 30 08:44:40 2009 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 10:44:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant Message-ID: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> All: Having searched the archives to no avail. What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty gas / fuel tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants almost $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I can seal it myself if I can locate the right product. Suggestions? Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From bcrist at club-internet.fr Sat May 30 08:54:28 2009 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 16:54:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> Message-ID: <4A2148A4.8050305@club-internet.fr> Take care of the fire hazard ++++ B Al Fuller a icrit : > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 30 09:21:33 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 08:21:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> Message-ID: <4A214EFD.1090605@comcast.net> Al, We sealed the (new) tank on my BJ8 probably over 15 years ago with a tank sealant from Bill Hirsch (advertises in Hemmings). We just sealed the (used) tank on our BN2/100M with the same product. Through all the weird gas formulations that California throws at us, I have had zero problems with fuel (except for fuel pumps, of course). I don't even use a filter--except for the stock thimble-screens--and never have problems with detritus in the fuel line (I use Grose-Jets in the BJ8, which are arguably more sensitive to crud). The key is careful prep of the tank; follow the instructions carefully, and make sure the inside is properly etched before applying the sealant. The sealant, when properly applied, makes a hard, nearly bullet-proof coating on the metal. I suspect other brands work just as well. Bob Al Fuller wrote: > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From al at bighealey.org Sat May 30 09:46:37 2009 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 11:46:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <4A2148A4.8050305@club-internet.fr> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> <4A2148A4.8050305@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <02ee01c9e13d$d2a679f0$77f36dd0$@org> Thanks for the fire warning. The tank is currently at the radiator shop, and they flushed it before repairing the hole which my assistant drilled into the bottom of the tank. I assume [but will confirm] that the tank will have no residual gasoline fumes when I get it back from the radiator shop. Now to find a product to do the inside of the tank. Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bernard Cristalli Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 10:54 AM To: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant Take care of the fire hazard ++++ B Al Fuller a icrit : > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as al at bighealey.org http://www.team.net/archive From pieters at pt.lu Sat May 30 09:56:07 2009 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 17:56:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> Message-ID: Al, I used the kit from POR15 about 5 years ago. It included a special wash, a metal prep and finally the sealant. Easy to use and no problems since. Make sure you keep air flowing back in through the fuel outlet so the filter on the pick up doesn't get sealed as well, cheers Pieter On 30/05/2009, at 4:44 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty > gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants > almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I > can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Sat May 30 13:49:15 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 14:49:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay In-Reply-To: <000601c9e121$d4bce790$7e36b6b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Gents: I sent Steve B. the below 'quote' yesterday!! I DID get a DIRECT (NON-eBay 'mail' reply) and it IS below the "*" line. "Smells" like she thinks I just fell off the turnip truck !! LOL Note that there is NO 'answer' to my DIRECT Question !!! The two towns involved are 8 miles apart!! Ed -----Original Message----- From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 10:19 PM To: BJ8 Healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay I just sent seller the following, Steve: I have a friend in Stockbridge that I would like to have take a look at the car. Is it possible to do so either tomorrow or Sunday ?? TIA ! Ed Reply 'should' be interesting. Sure looks like scam to me also. *************************************************** Hi Thank you for your interest in my 1967 Austin Healey. The car is located in McDonough GA. It has all the papers (complete). This was my son's car who passed away 6 months ago, it only brings me bad memories. I want this transaction to be smooth as I am caught in the middle of some very important events and I don't have much time at my disposal. The car is in perfect condition, no scratches, no special marks, no need for additional repairs what so ever, no leaks, rust free. It has a new soft top and an excellent original interior, the wood dash is superb and the steering wheel and gauges are just lovely. This is not an out of state rust bucket, it has an excellent body, all the doors fit perfect as does the trunk and hood. The car drives extremely well, no noise in first gear, the syncros are excellent, plenty of power, tight suspension and brakes. 133,000 original miles. A great car ready to be yours. It has a clear title. The price is $10,000 including shipping costs anywhere in the continental US. There are no other costs regarding this transaction. Regarding payment I am aware of the eBay's rules and we will use Vehicle Purchase Protection Program which will hold the payment until you receive the car. If you are interested please provide me the following informations necessary to make a decision: -full name -any negative feedback and if so .... for what reason . If I receive the requested information you will be informed by eBay during the next hours with details about your purchase. Thank you, Abigail Montana PS: I have uploaded some photos for your consideration: http://i43.tinypic.com/332w9yr.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/hurcdk.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/29lxs3r.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/125p85x.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/2roi5u1.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/jsdlyb.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/208iusp.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/14lhmu.jpg From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sat May 30 14:21:21 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:21:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay In-Reply-To: References: <000601c9e121$d4bce790$7e36b6b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: A few years ago I tangled with a scammer on eBay over a series 1 E-Type. The price was just cheap enough to be real. When I realized it was a scam I decided to have a bit of fun. So I wrote to them and told them I understood about how they were concerned about scams, so rather than using pay pal, I told them that my uncle Mr. Benjamin Dover lived in their area, and he would be happy to meet them at the bank, give them cash in return for the title. I did remember to mention that uncle Ben was a retired FBI agent who spent 10 years investigating cyber crimes. For some reason they never wrote back... I wonder why? Rick On Sat, May 30, 2009 at 12:49 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > Gents: > > I sent Steve B. the below 'quote' yesterday!! > I DID get a DIRECT (NON-eBay 'mail' reply) and it IS > below the "*" line. "Smells" like she thinks I just > fell off the turnip truck !! LOL Note that there is NO 'answer' > to my DIRECT Question !!! The two towns involved are 8 miles > apart!! > > Ed From al at bighealey.org Sat May 30 14:34:22 2009 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 16:34:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> Message-ID: <030e01c9e166$04975470$0dc5fd50$@org> Thanks, Pieter - I will see if my local paint supply place has it [or the others suggested]. Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: Pieter and Linda [mailto:pieters at pt.lu] Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 11:56 AM To: Al Fuller Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant Al, I used the kit from POR15 about 5 years ago. It included a special wash, a metal prep and finally the sealant. Easy to use and no problems since. Make sure you keep air flowing back in through the fuel outlet so the filter on the pick up doesn't get sealed as well, cheers Pieter On 30/05/2009, at 4:44 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty > gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants > almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I > can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu > > http://www.team.net/archive From Awgertoo at aol.com Sat May 30 14:39:10 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 16:39:10 EDT Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: just a test.... Best--Michael Oritt **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve -Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml cntnew00000007) From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat May 30 15:30:18 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 15:30:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay In-Reply-To: References: <000601c9e121$d4bce790$7e36b6b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <027DC9A83CEC4A0CA4185A1F33A792AC@oscar> I got this one today from Craig's List... These people just never cease to amaze me with their stupidity.. Dave Hello, Thanks for the quick response and i am interested in the item you advertised because I like the condition you stated about it and I will like to make an outright purchase immediately so I will like you withdraw the advert from the web. Regarding the payment term,I can only for now pay you with a certified check in U.S. dollars, Kindly get back to me the following information's so that the payment can be made to you : 1.Your full name to be on the check. 2.Your postal address. 3.Your postal code 4.Your mobile phone number (For easier communications). Kindly get me the above requested information as soon as possible. Concerning the shipment,it is my regular mover that will come for the pick up as soon as you receive your money in hands. You can easily get in touch with me on my mobile cell # 206-279-9155.........Should in case i am not available, you can leave your message and i will actual get back to you.Asap Thanks in Advance... Smith. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 2:21 PM To: Ed's Shop Cc: 00 - Healeys at Autox Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 scam on eBay A few years ago I tangled with a scammer on eBay over a series 1 E-Type. The price was just cheap enough to be real. When I realized it was a scam I decided to have a bit of fun. So I wrote to them and told them I understood about how they were concerned about scams, so rather than using pay pal, I told them that my uncle Mr. Benjamin Dover lived in their area, and he would be happy to meet them at the bank, give them cash in return for the title. I did remember to mention that uncle Ben was a retired FBI agent who spent 10 years investigating cyber crimes. For some reason they never wrote back... I wonder why? Rick On Sat, May 30, 2009 at 12:49 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > Gents: > > I sent Steve B. the below 'quote' yesterday!! > I DID get a DIRECT (NON-eBay 'mail' reply) and it IS > below the "*" line. "Smells" like she thinks I just > fell off the turnip truck !! LOL Note that there is NO 'answer' > to my DIRECT Question !!! The two towns involved are 8 miles > apart!! > > Ed Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive From ah3000me at gmail.com Sat May 30 15:33:47 2009 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 17:33:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting Message-ID: Saw a very nice blue/white BJ8 in the Mt Washington section of Baltimore City this afternoon. Anyone on the list? After a long train ride to Baltimore, and a couple hours shuttling thru BWI to get a rental car, this sighting was quite a treat! - Tom From austinbj8 at yahoo.com Sat May 30 18:25:46 2009 From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 17:25:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth tools Message-ID: <776568.55896.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello fellow listers, Recently there has been some interest in purchasing BS and Whitworth tools. I have a complete set of Snap On tools for sale, they are in excellent and almost unused condition. They consist of seven (7) open/box BS and 12 sockets. Four of the sockets are 1/2 drive, 12 pt, shallow and the others are 3/8 drive shallow. Any interest let me know. TIA, John From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Sat May 30 16:32:11 2009 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 17:32:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] No Power Message-ID: Hi all, Well I gave the old girl her first test drive today and what pick up! Before I began to drive I let the engine get good and warm but after a couple of minutes of driving, all of a sudden there's no power and acts like it wants to stall. I've got the timing around 5 degrees. I didn't rebuild the engine because the compression test was good so I just replaced all the electrials and gaskets. I also didn't rebuild the carbs. I'm wondering if the carbs need adjustment. When I give the gas, you can hear the air sucking in through the air filters a bit too long before the engine revs. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve Meyer 61 BN7 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 30 19:04:10 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 18:04:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A21D78A.8090704@comcast.net> If it runs fine for a while then wants to quit it probably isn't the carbs. Sounds like you either just bought the car or it's been sitting for awhile. My guess would be the fuel pump based on the (limited) info. Bob Steve wrote: > Hi all, > Well I gave the old girl her first test drive today and what > pick up! Before I began to drive I let the engine get good and warm but > after a couple of minutes of driving, all of a sudden there's no power > and acts like it wants to stall. I've got the timing around 5 degrees. > I didn't rebuild the engine because the compression test was good so I > just replaced all the electrials and gaskets. I also didn't rebuild the > carbs. I'm wondering if the carbs need adjustment. When I give the > gas, you can hear the air sucking in through the air filters a bit too > long before the engine revs. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 30 19:42:08 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:42:08 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Steve - It's hard to say without more data, but sounds like fuel starvation. If cars sit for a long time, the fuel tanks rust up and the rust scale clogs up the fuel pump causing it to work overtime. The fact that it worked for a short while suggests this is your problem (ie it took a few minutes to suck the rust into your system) I'd say drain and flush your tank and take out the fuel pump and dissassemble and clean. To be honest as I get older I think SU pumps have a bad wrap. They actually work fine, but they fail usually when they get clogged with crap. All cars I buy, I ALWAYS pull the tank and fuel pump and clean them out thoroughly. On 5/31/09, Steve wrote: > Hi all, > Well I gave the old girl her first test drive today and what > pick up! Before I began to drive I let the engine get good and warm but > after a couple of minutes of driving, all of a sudden there's no power > and acts like it wants to stall. I've got the timing around 5 degrees. > I didn't rebuild the engine because the compression test was good so I > just replaced all the electrials and gaskets. I also didn't rebuild the > carbs. I'm wondering if the carbs need adjustment. When I give the > gas, you can hear the air sucking in through the air filters a bit too > long before the engine revs. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From pennell at cox.net Sat May 30 20:51:39 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 22:51:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090530225139.891HD.126844.imail@eastrmwml47> Steve, Disconnect the fuel line at the carbs and place a small pot/pan under the end. Turn on the ignition. Does the pump click? Does it go on and on and on? Does fuel run into the pan? Repeat several times. Do you still get gas in the pan? If not then follow Alan's advice. Keith Pennell ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: > Steve - > > It's hard to say without more data, but sounds like fuel starvation. > If cars sit for a long time, the fuel tanks rust up and the rust scale > clogs up the fuel pump causing it to work overtime. The fact that it > worked for a short while suggests this is your problem (ie it took a > few minutes to suck the rust into your system) > > I'd say drain and flush your tank and take out the fuel pump and > dissassemble and clean. > > To be honest as I get older I think SU pumps have a bad wrap. They > actually work fine, but they fail usually when they get clogged with > crap. > > All cars I buy, I ALWAYS pull the tank and fuel pump and clean them > out thoroughly. From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 30 21:23:06 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 20:23:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> re: "I think SU pumps have a bad wrap" Not necessarily. IMO, the problem with SU pumps is they use points to switch the current. When the points open the induced magnetic field in the coil collapses producing a back current which arcs across the points (similar to what happens in an ignition coil). This arcing transfers metal with each occurrence, and also produces ozone which exacerbates the arcing (that's why the electronic end of the pump is vented). Eventually, the gap changes and/or the points stick and the pump becomes intermittent or fails outright. The arcing is why SU pumps went from nothing, to a capacitor to a diode (called a 'flywheel diode') across the points to reduce the arcing. The final cure is a fully electronic pump, with a Hall Effect and transistor-switched design (which solved my pump problems--I've never had a contamination problem). Also, the diaphragm can get stiff from age and non-use. Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > Steve - > > It's hard to say without more data, but sounds like fuel starvation. > If cars sit for a long time, the fuel tanks rust up and the rust scale > clogs up the fuel pump causing it to work overtime. The fact that it > worked for a short while suggests this is your problem (ie it took a > few minutes to suck the rust into your system) > > I'd say drain and flush your tank and take out the fuel pump and > dissassemble and clean. > > To be honest as I get older I think SU pumps have a bad wrap. They > actually work fine, but they fail usually when they get clogged with > crap. > > All cars I buy, I ALWAYS pull the tank and fuel pump and clean them > out thoroughly. > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sat May 30 21:34:06 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 20:34:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <030e01c9e166$04975470$0dc5fd50$@org> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> <030e01c9e166$04975470$0dc5fd50$@org> Message-ID: <471534970905302034q64b9c179xcbede14df9aff664@mail.gmail.com> Take a look at the following article on my site: http://www.theymightberacing.com/ShopTech/FuelTankRestoration.aspx It's using the POR-15 kit as already recommended. The tank is a Studebaker tank, but the steps are the same regardles of type. Jody On Sat, May 30, 2009 at 1:34 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > Thanks, Pieter - I will see if my local paint supply place has it [or the > others suggested]. > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pieter and Linda [mailto:pieters at pt.lu] > Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 11:56 AM > To: Al Fuller > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant > > Al, > I used the kit from POR15 about 5 years ago. It included a special > wash, a metal prep and finally the sealant. Easy to use and no > problems since. Make sure you keep air flowing back in through the > fuel outlet so the filter on the pick up doesn't get sealed as well, > cheers > Pieter > On 30/05/2009, at 4:44 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > >> All: >> >> >> >> Having searched the archives to no avail. >> >> >> >> What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty >> gas / fuel >> tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants >> almost >> $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I >> can >> seal it myself if I can locate the right product. >> >> >> >> Suggestions? >> >> >> >> Al Fuller >> >> al at bighealey.org >> >> '62 BT-7 >> >> '65 BJ-8 >> >> '85 Rx-7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun May 31 05:19:58 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 06:19:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <471534970905302034q64b9c179xcbede14df9aff664@mail.gmail.com> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org><030e01c9e166$04975470$0dc5fd50$@org> <471534970905302034q64b9c179xcbede14df9aff664@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I too have used the Bill Hirsch product, ten years ago no issues since. Greg From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 31 07:12:34 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:12:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5937FE18A7E64C98877F4DFEB7000447@ophrdc.org> I'd like to share an observation here: Last year we prepared a 1954 BN1 with an amazing 4126 original miles for the road after the car had been stored for over 4 decades. The entire fuel system was filthy and had to be thoroughly cleaned. New kits went into the carbs, the tank was removed, cleaned and sealed, the lines were blown out, etc. The original single point SU pump was cleaned thoroughly, the points were cleaned and the setting checked. Initially the pump struggled a bit with the stiff diaphragm, so I "exercised" the diaphragm gently by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver under the rocker pedestal and levering the stem up and down a few times. Then current was applied and away it went with a steady strong beat. Everything was reinstalled and the car has been running flawlessly for the last year and a half. As for many SU pumps installed either new or rebuilt, I believe a lot of the arcing problem and so called unreliability can be traced to the diaphragm not being set correctly, causing undue arcing as the diaphragm struggles to complete it's proper "throw over". I see this on almost half the new SU pumps. In those cases, a 1/3 turn (2 screw holes) of the diaphragm setting to allow a slightly longer stroke does the trick. As an aside, the above mentioned BN1 (original and extremely rare one of 7 done in Gunmetal Gray Metallic with red trim) will be one of four survivor cars being reviewed at an indoor tech session at Conclave in Kingston, Ontario 3 weeks from now. Hope you are planning to be there. Rich Chrysler Bob Wrote > re: > "I think SU pumps have a bad wrap" > > Not necessarily. IMO, the problem with SU pumps is they use points to > switch the current. When the points open the induced magnetic field in > the coil collapses producing a back current which arcs across the points > (similar to what happens in an ignition coil). This arcing transfers > metal with each occurrence, and also produces ozone which exacerbates the > arcing (that's why the electronic end of the pump is vented). Eventually, > the gap changes and/or the points stick and the pump becomes intermittent > or fails outright. The arcing is why SU pumps went from nothing, to a > capacitor to a diode (called a 'flywheel diode') across the points to > reduce the arcing. The final cure is a fully electronic pump, with a Hall > Effect and transistor-switched design (which solved my pump problems--I've > never had a contamination problem). > > Also, the diaphragm can get stiff from age and non-use. Alan Wrote >> To be honest as I get older I think SU pumps have a bad wrap. They >> actually work fine, but they fail usually when they get clogged with >> crap. >> >> All cars I buy, I ALWAYS pull the tank and fuel pump and clean them >> out thoroughly. From cbaustin at verizon.net Sun May 31 07:37:07 2009 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:37:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test for Mike - all others delete Message-ID: <4A228803.3020803@verizon.net> Test - sent from Denver at 7:35 am local time. CB From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com Sun May 31 07:57:09 2009 From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:57:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun Message-ID: <004301c9e1f7$b1412ca0$13c385e0$@com> It is the last day of May, tomorrow is the last day you can post your entry to the PVGPA Historic races at BeaveRun and still get the discount! In today's world it is probably the best deal in Vintage Racing! If you opt for the full 3 day package you will get more driving time than you may have tires for! We have all sorts of things planned from our included trackside reception on Friday to the optional race dinner on Saturday. On Friday the kart track will be open and we are working on having that open all weekend. If we can entice enough mini's to come out and play we have a separate race for them. Since we offer full refunds there is no reason not to send in your check today. (remember it is made out to PVGPA and so a portion of it is tax deductable - how much is between you, your accountant and God) OUR REFUND POLICY IS THUS - IF YOU DO NOT PUT A WHEEL ON THE TRACK ON Friday OR SATURDAY YOU GET YOUR ENTIRE REFUND. IF YOU PACK UP FRIDAY NIGHT AND GO DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY MORE ACTIVITIES WE WILL REFUND THE RACE WEEKEND PORTION - IF YOU WANT TO HANG AROUND FOR THE WEEKEND BUT YOUR CAR HAS DIED BEFORE THE FIRST SESSION ON SATURDAY WE WILL REFUND JUST YOUR ENTRY FEE. We are planning a big Trans-Am race so we really want to see all of the classic sedans out there. At this particular race we have a spot for a number of cars that are not normally seen at VRG events. One that comes to mind is air cooled Super VEE. Great racing, great fun, and great charities that your entry fees are going to. A perfect summer weekend! For more information forms, links, etc please go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com and click the vintage racing link - click the BeaveRun link next and you should find all you need there or a link to where ever you may want to go - VRG, PVGPA, etc Thanks and I expect to see you there Ralph Steinberg PVGPA Director of Competition BeaveRun Historics From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 09:02:53 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 08:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) In-Reply-To: <5937FE18A7E64C98877F4DFEB7000447@ophrdc.org> References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> <5937FE18A7E64C98877F4DFEB7000447@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <4A229C1D.9090708@comcast.net> Hi Rich, Are you saying the 'book' setting is too tight, or that the pumps aren't set according to the book (something like 'screw the diaphragm in until the points don't throw over, then back off 2/3 turns')? The arcing occurs when the points open; if the coil is saturated with a 'normal' setting, having the diaphragm too tight won't matter (the coil might overheat, though). Once saturated the coil won't draw any additional marginal current due to the induced impedance in the coil. Bob Rich C wrote: > I'd like to share an observation here: > > Last year we prepared a 1954 BN1 with an amazing 4126 original miles for > the road after the car had been stored for over 4 decades. The entire > fuel system was filthy and had to be thoroughly cleaned. New kits went > into the carbs, the tank was removed, cleaned and sealed, the lines were > blown out, etc. > > The original single point SU pump was cleaned thoroughly, the points > were cleaned and the setting checked. Initially the pump struggled a bit > with the stiff diaphragm, so I "exercised" the diaphragm gently by > inserting a small flat blade screwdriver under the rocker pedestal and > levering the stem up and down a few times. Then current was applied and > away it went with a steady strong beat. Everything was reinstalled and > the car has been running flawlessly for the last year and a half. > > As for many SU pumps installed either new or rebuilt, I believe a lot of > the arcing problem and so called unreliability can be traced to the > diaphragm not being set correctly, causing undue arcing as the diaphragm > struggles to complete it's proper "throw over". I see this on almost > half the new SU pumps. In those cases, a 1/3 turn (2 screw holes) of the > diaphragm setting to allow a slightly longer stroke does the trick. > > As an aside, the above mentioned BN1 (original and extremely rare one of > 7 done in Gunmetal Gray Metallic with red trim) will be one of four > survivor cars being reviewed at an indoor tech session at Conclave in > Kingston, Ontario 3 weeks from now. Hope you are planning to be there. > > Rich Chrysler ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 31 09:04:06 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 11:04:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> <5937FE18A7E64C98877F4DFEB7000447@ophrdc.org> <4A229C1D.9090708@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, What I have been observing is that on new pumps, they are often not set correctly from the factory and often seem to need that extra bit of length for proper throw over. Once this was done, these new pumps worked fine. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Rich C" Cc: "Alan Seigrist" ; ; "Steve" Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:02 AM Subject: Re: SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) > Hi Rich, > > Are you saying the 'book' setting is too tight, or that the pumps aren't > set according to the book (something like 'screw the diaphragm in until > the points don't throw over, then back off 2/3 turns')? > > The arcing occurs when the points open; if the coil is saturated with a > 'normal' setting, having the diaphragm too tight won't matter (the coil > might overheat, though). Once saturated the coil won't draw any > additional marginal current due to the induced impedance in the coil. > > > Bob > > > Rich C wrote: >> I'd like to share an observation here: >> >> Last year we prepared a 1954 BN1 with an amazing 4126 original miles for >> the road after the car had been stored for over 4 decades. The entire >> fuel system was filthy and had to be thoroughly cleaned. New kits went >> into the carbs, the tank was removed, cleaned and sealed, the lines were >> blown out, etc. >> >> The original single point SU pump was cleaned thoroughly, the points were >> cleaned and the setting checked. Initially the pump struggled a bit with >> the stiff diaphragm, so I "exercised" the diaphragm gently by inserting a >> small flat blade screwdriver under the rocker pedestal and levering the >> stem up and down a few times. Then current was applied and away it went >> with a steady strong beat. Everything was reinstalled and the car has >> been running flawlessly for the last year and a half. >> >> As for many SU pumps installed either new or rebuilt, I believe a lot of >> the arcing problem and so called unreliability can be traced to the >> diaphragm not being set correctly, causing undue arcing as the diaphragm >> struggles to complete it's proper "throw over". I see this on almost half >> the new SU pumps. In those cases, a 1/3 turn (2 screw holes) of the >> diaphragm setting to allow a slightly longer stroke does the trick. >> >> As an aside, the above mentioned BN1 (original and extremely rare one of >> 7 done in Gunmetal Gray Metallic with red trim) will be one of four >> survivor cars being reviewed at an indoor tech session at Conclave in >> Kingston, Ontario 3 weeks from now. Hope you are planning to be there. >> >> Rich Chrysler > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From Hartangus at aol.com Sun May 31 09:09:07 2009 From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 11:09:07 EDT Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: testing From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sun May 31 12:22:35 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:22:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) In-Reply-To: References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> <5937FE18A7E64C98877F4DFEB7000447@ophrdc.org> <4A229C1D.9090708@comcast.net> Message-ID: Rich You might be interested to hear that Burlen have provided revised settings in line with what you have found. As you say the original setting did not allow reliable throw over. I produced a test rig some time ago; similar to those on the workshop manual where I pumped paraffin of kerosene as you might call it. I had a pump that let me down after a long run and then got better after a rest. I traced this using the rig to the body of the pump heating up, after many hours running, where the throw over mechanism just stopped working. I then revised my set up procedure as you have but it was some years later that a colleague brought the Burlen note to my attention. Regards > >What I have been observing is that on new pumps, they are often not set >correctly from the factory and often seem to need that extra bit of >length for proper throw over. Once this was done, these new pumps >worked fine. > >Rich > -- John Harper From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Sun May 31 13:06:07 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:06:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo for '67 bj8 Message-ID: <658BB1FB7AEB43FEB24DD6EA5319632A@TM44> Hello there, The Girling Brake servo was used on the Amazons (as an option) and on 1800S. They do appear no ebay every now and then, but most often are not useable. They have 2 problems: - the aluminum housing deteriorates, as the aluminum used there reacts with brake fluid - this means the servo begins to leak and in turn leaks fluid. - the servo boost (the metal can) does not hold pressure due to deteriorating seal. All replacements (PBR, Lockheed, the Taiwan Lockheed copy currently sold) replace the unit, but do remember that their characteristic is not the same as original Girling. I do know there is a company in Sweden who plans to try to reproduce the original Girling. If I know anything further I will let you know. Best, Tadek From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 31 13:33:41 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:33:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant In-Reply-To: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> References: <02e901c9e135$2aae1da0$800a58e0$@org> Message-ID: <4A22DB95.5090904@chello.nl> Al, Before sealing, fill if with a few kilo's sharp gravel and a few hands of builders sand (sharp sand), pour in 10liter of water, seal the tank openings and shake the tank vigurously for some time. Rinse out, and again and again untill all sand and gravel is removed. Most if not of the rust can be removed that way. Dry the tank very carefully as quickly as possible using a heat gun or hair dryer inserted in the filler opening and directed on the seams from the outside. Seal immediately after the drying using one of the usual slush sealants. I do not know what is available in the US, but your countrymen will undoubtedly put that matter straight. Kees Oudesluijs NL Al Fuller schreef: > All: > > > > Having searched the archives to no avail. > > > > What product have any of you used to seal the inside of a rusty gas / fuel > tank? The radiator shop which is fixing a hole in the tank wants almost > $300 to seal it. Well, a new tank is less than that, and I figure I can > seal it myself if I can locate the right product. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey.org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 31 13:45:42 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:45:42 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A22DE66.7070607@chello.nl> Steve, No fuel, probably because of blocked fuel line or filter. Clean the gauze filters in the carbs supply line, try to clean out the lines themselves using an air nozzle From the carbs towards the tank with the filler cap open and the fuel pump removed, clean out the fuel pump and renew the fuel filter. Also fit a fuel filter between tank and pump. I suppose you have to clean out the carbs themselves as well in the end. All caused by prolonged non running. Kees Oudesluijs NL Steve schreef: > Hi all, > Well I gave the old girl her first test drive today and what > pick up! Before I began to drive I let the engine get good and warm but > after a couple of minutes of driving, all of a sudden there's no power > and acts like it wants to stall. I've got the timing around 5 degrees. > I didn't rebuild the engine because the compression test was good so I > just replaced all the electrials and gaskets. I also didn't rebuild the > carbs. I'm wondering if the carbs need adjustment. When I give the > gas, you can hear the air sucking in through the air filters a bit too > long before the engine revs. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Steve Meyer > 61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 31 13:58:06 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:58:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A22E14E.9080403@chello.nl> I tend to agree with Alan, I never had any problems with SU fuel pumps, but then I always use a filter in the fuel line before the pump and I do clean the points regularly using a bit of stiff and roughish paper. Changing the points is an easy job (I carry a spare set, but I never had to do it yet) and you can replace the points with a solid state switching unit,. I think Burlen do them.. Kees Oudesluijs, NL Bob Spidell schreef: > re: > "I think SU pumps have a bad wrap" > > Not necessarily. IMO, the problem with SU pumps is they use points to > switch the current. When the points open the induced magnetic field > in the coil collapses producing a back current which arcs across the > points (similar to what happens in an ignition coil). This arcing > transfers metal with each occurrence, and also produces ozone which > exacerbates the arcing (that's why the electronic end of the pump is > vented). Eventually, the gap changes and/or the points stick and the > pump becomes intermittent or fails outright. The arcing is why SU > pumps went from nothing, to a capacitor to a diode (called a 'flywheel > diode') across the points to reduce the arcing. The final cure is a > fully electronic pump, with a Hall Effect and transistor-switched > design (which solved my pump problems--I've never had a contamination > problem). > > Also, the diaphragm can get stiff from age and non-use. > > > Bob > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Steve - >> >> It's hard to say without more data, but sounds like fuel starvation. >> If cars sit for a long time, the fuel tanks rust up and the rust scale >> clogs up the fuel pump causing it to work overtime. The fact that it >> worked for a short while suggests this is your problem (ie it took a >> few minutes to suck the rust into your system) >> >> I'd say drain and flush your tank and take out the fuel pump and >> dissassemble and clean. >> >> To be honest as I get older I think SU pumps have a bad wrap. They >> actually work fine, but they fail usually when they get clogged with >> crap. >> >> All cars I buy, I ALWAYS pull the tank and fuel pump and clean them >> out thoroughly. From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sun May 31 14:26:33 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:26:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] positive to negative ground conversion Message-ID: <2CCF0A33-7EAB-481D-AD86-CC8A9881629B@comcast.net> I am converting my 1954 BN1 to negative ground from positive ground.Is it necessary to convert the wiring to the diodes in the tachometer? Other than the ammeter and the coil does anything else have to be converted? From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sun May 31 14:33:23 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:33:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] positive to negative ground conversion In-Reply-To: <2CCF0A33-7EAB-481D-AD86-CC8A9881629B@comcast.net> References: <2CCF0A33-7EAB-481D-AD86-CC8A9881629B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F31CBC14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> I would not do that, as you may have one of these extremely rare BN1s with the diodes in the tachometer and ammeter fitted. Do you have this verified in the Heritage Certificate? Josef Eckert -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jess Power Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Mai 2009 22:27 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] positive to negative ground conversion I am converting my 1954 BN1 to negative ground from positive ground.Is it necessary to convert the wiring to the diodes in the tachometer? Other than the ammeter and the coil does anything else have to be converted? _ From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net Sun May 31 14:36:40 2009 From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 13:36:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] SU pump test rig Message-ID: <938414.67901.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Rich C & John H ... I used an S.U test rig when I was rebuilding the S.U fuel pumps back in the 50's .. if you have my Tech Talk book check page 113 ,my article was run in Chatter about 20 years ago ,my only notes say later than April but no year.. it shows the test rig and how it works .. if any body can tell me the year and month it was run I will note it in my Tech Talk book ... this test rig was available then from Nuffield Export Ltd Norman Nock --- On Sun, 5/31/09, John Harper wrote: From: John Harper Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) To: "Rich C" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "Steve" Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 11:22 AM Rich You might be interested to hear that Burlen have provided revised settings in line with what you have found. As you say the original setting did not allow reliable throw over. I produced a test rig some time ago; similar to those on the workshop manual where I pumped paraffin of kerosene as you might call it. I had a pump that let me down after a long run and then got better after a rest. I traced this using the rig to the body of the pump heating up, after many hours running, where the throw over mechanism just stopped working. I then revised my set up procedure as you have but it was some years later that a colleague brought the Burlen note to my attention. Regards > > What I have been observing is that on new pumps, they are often not set correctly from the factory and often seem to need that extra bit of length for proper throw over. Once this was done, these new pumps worked fine. > > Rich > -- John Harper Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net http://www.team.net/archive From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net Sun May 31 14:49:13 2009 From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 13:49:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank Message-ID: <679794.83148.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> An empty gas tank is a bomb , very dangerous , take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and checked ... I have never seen filter screen in a gas tank .. Norman Nock From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun May 31 14:55:01 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:55:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] positive to negative ground conversion In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F31CBC14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> References: <2CCF0A33-7EAB-481D-AD86-CC8A9881629B@comcast.net> <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F31CBC14@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <744ADCFC2C9C4090A2A0EC76E565D2B9@GregPC> Jess, the BN1 conversion is easy and quite reversible, mechanical tachometer, so no wiring issues there, Greg From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun May 31 15:02:17 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:02:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] SU pump test rig In-Reply-To: <938414.67901.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <938414.67901.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I used Marvel Mystery oil for my test fluid, couple lengts of suitable rubber hose, plastic cup for fluid to flow in and out of, model train transformer (supplies 12v DC, great for auto electrical testing of items that don't draw a lot of amps) for the power source, you can get old train set transformer for next to nothing at train shows, ebay, garage sales, etc. Marvel Mystery oil doesn't smell half bad. Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norman Nock" To: Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:36 PM Subject: [Healeys] SU pump test rig > Rich C & John H ... I used an S.U test rig when I was rebuilding the S.U > fuel > pumps back in the 50's .. if you have my Tech Talk book check page 113 ,my > article was run in Chatter about 20 years ago ,my only notes say later > than > April but no year.. it shows the test rig and how it works .. if any body > can > tell me the year and month it was run I will note it in my Tech Talk book > ... > this test rig was available then from Nuffield Export Ltd Norman > Nock > > --- On Sun, 5/31/09, John Harper wrote: > > From: John Harper > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Pumps Bad Rap (was No Power) > To: "Rich C" > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, "Steve" > Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 11:22 AM > > Rich > > You might be interested to hear that Burlen have provided revised settings > in > line with what you have found. As you say the original setting did not > allow > reliable throw over. > > I produced a test rig some time ago; similar to those on the workshop > manual > where I pumped paraffin of kerosene as you might call it. I had a pump > that > let me down after a long run and then got better after a rest. I traced > this > using the rig to the body of the pump heating up, after many hours > running, > where the throw over mechanism just stopped working. I then revised my set > up > procedure as you have but it was some years later that a colleague brought > the > Burlen note to my attention. > > Regards > >> >> What I have been observing is that on new pumps, they are often not set > correctly from the factory and often seem to need that extra bit of length > for > proper throw over. Once this was done, these new pumps worked fine. >> >> Rich >> > -- John Harper > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 31 15:40:04 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 17:40:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank References: <679794.83148.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Norman writes: "An empty gas tank is a bomb" You are pretty much right there Norman - although I have been told that they do not actually explode and blow shrapnel all over the place, but sort of bulge out and rupture as the gas expands very, very quickly when ignited. As you well know, fuel burns, it does not explode - still, nothing I want to try just so I can give you more detail!! If you want to see what an "exploded" gas tank from a motorbike looks like - check out the link below - it is not as bad as you might think. The site may be of interest as Ross Thomson, the guy who fixed the tank, is a phenomenal metalworker who just repairs motorcycle gas tanks and stainless steel car and bike trim. I have used him to restore several tanks and he is exceptional. Also, before he works on tanks, he hooks the outlet side of small shop vac to the filler hole and duct tapes it on, opens up the fuel cocks and blows air through it for 20+ minutes. The tank will get quite warm, but this really clears out all the fumes and any little pockets of gas that may be lurking in seams. I have done it several times before taking tanks to him. http://www.execulink.com/~rosst/velocette.htm Cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 31 15:41:26 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 17:41:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gas / fuel tank sealant Message-ID: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas / fuel tank sealant > Kees wrote: "Most if not of the rust can be removed that way." > > .. or use a 15% solution of phosphoric acid. I buy this locally from a > lab suppliers and use it a lot for de-rusting parts where cleanliness is > paramount - fuel tanks included. However, the bare metal will "flash > rust" pretty quick as the acid drives out all moisture as well. Use > common sense, rubber gloves etc, although it is not a very bad one to use. > Also dispose of it responsibly at a hazardous waste centre. It is great > for re-rusting nuts and bolts, but be fore-warned that if they are cadmium > plated, it will strip the cad. It does not seem to affect zinc plated > fasteners, which is what the fasteners on at least the 6 cyl Healeys all > have. > > Lastly, to add my 2 cents, I have heard good things about the Por-15 that > others have recommended as a fuel tank sealer, although I have never used > it. Another one that came very highly recommended from someone whose > judgment I trust is a Yamaha product specifically for cleaning, etching > and sealing fuel tanks. I have not used it either, but have bought two > kits in anticipation of two tanks that I need to do in the near future. > The part number is ACC-FUELT-CD-KT. I bought mine from a Yamaha dealer in > the US - it is unavailable in Canada and I recall it was about $15 for the > kit. > > One I would stay away from is KREEM tank sealer. I used this many years > ago and it stood up well until about when they started introducing Ethanol > to the fuel. I am not saying the Ethanol was the problem, there could > have been other additives added at the same time. The sealer has gone > very soft and it is starting to separate from the tank. I am > anticipating an unholy mess in the near future. The solvent for it is > methyl-ethyl-ketone (MEK) which is one really nasty chemical and is part > of the application procedure - just don't buy it! > > cheers, > > Mirek > '60 BT7 From peter.svilans at rogers.com Sun May 31 16:08:58 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:08:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank Message-ID: <001401c9e23c$658dd980$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> << an empty gas tank is a bomb >> I had removed the empty gas tank from a vintage scooter, and it had been lying on the patio for at least three days with the filler neck open. I was torching off a rusty bolt and the orange-red nut dropped and rolled near the open filler tube. There was a loud, very memorable "chuff" sound exactly like a shovelful of gravel tossed into a tin pail ( I can hear it to this day ) and the tank spun away across the patio like a deflating balloon. No distortion or damage to the tank. Peter From Awgertoo at aol.com Sun May 31 16:24:50 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:24:50 EDT Subject: [Healeys] test again Message-ID: last time, sorry. Best--Michael **************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve -Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml cntnew00000007) From shop at justbrits.com Sun May 31 16:51:55 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 17:51:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] test again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> It currently IS aol, Michael as I have heard from THREE Spridgeteers ALSO on the POS aol (Within the past 8 hours)!!! Ed From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 31 17:04:06 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:04:06 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] test- haven't tried in a while Message-ID: <1303795656.1209516.1243811046586.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net> From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sun May 31 17:15:43 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:15:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ammeter Message-ID: <455B40BD-290A-4A83-AC60-7BE94CF278F5@comcast.net> Ok guys,what does the ammeter look like in a 1954 BN1? Is it just the little light above the steering column? I don't see anything that looks like a voltmeter From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 17:30:34 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:30:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] No Power In-Reply-To: <4A22E14E.9080403@chello.nl> References: <4A21F81A.2060200@comcast.net> <4A22E14E.9080403@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4A23131A.90103@comcast.net> Kees, I think we're in violent agreement here. Points are the SU fuel pumps' weak knee; if you clean/replace and adjust the points every few thousand miles--Norman Nock once told me they did this as routine service back in the day--they probably won't fail. But that's hardly the epitome of durability and reliability (mechanical pumps, for instance, can be expected to last up to the life of an engine). Bob Oudesluys wrote: > I tend to agree with Alan, I never had any problems with SU fuel pumps, > but then I always use a filter in the fuel line before the pump and I do > clean the points regularly using a bit of stiff and roughish paper. > Changing the points is an easy job (I carry a spare set, but I never had > to do it yet) and you can replace the points with a solid state > switching unit,. I think Burlen do them.. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun May 31 17:29:35 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:29:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ammeter References: <455B40BD-290A-4A83-AC60-7BE94CF278F5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7FBF33B1947A46EDA7E47DBE71E1FB0B@ophrdc.org> Jess, There are no ammeters or voltmeters in a BN1 unless somebody added them. The "little light" above the steering column is the greeen lens turn signal indicator. I am the AHCA Hundred Registrar. Please contact me directly regarding recording your Hundred's data and numbers, ownership details, etc. I can also help you with a lot of your questions regarding the car. I can also send you all sorts of pictures of BN1 details. Rich Chrysler AHCA Hundred Registrar ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jess Power" To: Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 7:15 PM Subject: [Healeys] Ammeter > Ok guys,what does the ammeter look like in a 1954 BN1? Is it just the > little light above the steering column? I don't see anything that looks > like a voltmeter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun May 31 17:51:51 2009 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:51:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Subscriber Message-ID: Hi Folks-- I'm a new subscriber here (sort of) and look forward to getting lots of emails now that I have signed up using this gmail address. FWIW I have not been receiving posts regularly for several weeks. Best--Michael Oritt From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 31 18:00:37 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 08:00:37 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ammeter In-Reply-To: <455B40BD-290A-4A83-AC60-7BE94CF278F5@comcast.net> References: <455B40BD-290A-4A83-AC60-7BE94CF278F5@comcast.net> Message-ID: Jess - The BN1 doesn't have an ammeter. If your car does have one, just swap the two wires on the back. Tach is mechanical. Alan On 6/1/09, Jess Power wrote: > Ok guys,what does the ammeter look like in a 1954 BN1? Is it just the > little light above the steering column? I don't see anything that > looks like a voltmeter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 31 18:11:00 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 08:11:00 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] New Subscriber In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael - Welcome back to the healey list. How is your Toyota BN1 ;) ? Alan On 6/1/09, Michael Oritt wrote: > Hi Folks-- > > I'm a new subscriber here (sort of) and look forward to getting lots of > emails now that I have signed up using this gmail address. FWIW I have not > been receiving posts regularly for several weeks. > > Best--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From jessmd1 at comcast.net Sun May 31 19:13:01 2009 From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 20:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] smith guages Message-ID: <917EDAAB-C575-4931-BE4E-C26B984C735B@comcast.net> My AH BN1 was restored in 1995.I am converting from positive to negative ground.All the guages are Smith guages--- temp,speedometer,tachometer,and fuel.Do I need to convert any/all to negative ground? From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun May 31 19:25:23 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 20:25:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] smith guages In-Reply-To: <917EDAAB-C575-4931-BE4E-C26B984C735B@comcast.net> References: <917EDAAB-C575-4931-BE4E-C26B984C735B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0A3A14B1001F405F82925E5BA0C1FD68@GregPC> I just sent you this offline, but here it is for the benefit of the list as well, nice article at the the MGA gura.com your Lucas electricals in the Healey or the same, you don't need to do anything to anything under the dash, just under the hood as explained below. 100 guages don't care about poloarity, the later ones were pulse electric and do care, Greg From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Sun May 31 19:39:22 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:39:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuse for power takeoff Message-ID: I'm going to add a power outlet to my BN7 for cell phone and GPS. I think I should put a fuse inline. What size fuse should I use?? Thanks, Ron Fine 61BN7 From tomleavy at comcast.net Sun May 31 19:59:27 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 01:59:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Free wheels and brake lines Message-ID: <872862829.14857971243821567036.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi Listers- Anyone interested in 3 original 60 spokers, please contact me off list. Yours B for the pickup, not interested in shipping, though. Also, anyone in need of an original set of brake lines for reference only (they are not usable) again, contact me off list. They're yours for the pickup. These parts are form a BJ7. Cheers, Tom From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun May 31 20:18:33 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 20:18:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] smith gauges In-Reply-To: <917EDAAB-C575-4931-BE4E-C26B984C735B@comcast.net> References: <917EDAAB-C575-4931-BE4E-C26B984C735B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4D13D5A2D4434015A4E44DAC7D84A0A5@oscar> Just the fuel pump if still SU model. Switch the coil and re-polarize the generator. Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 7:13 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] smith guages My AH BN1 was restored in 1995.I am converting from positive to negative ground.All the guages are Smith guages--- temp,speedometer,tachometer,and fuel.Do I need to convert any/all to negative ground? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 20:31:32 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:31:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuse for power takeoff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A233D84.1040306@comcast.net> Ron, The GPS should have a power rating somewhere in the literature or on the case, expressed in amps or watts (if it's in watts, divide by 12 to get amps). Allow some cushion (50-100%). For example, if the power consumption rating for the GPS is 24 watts, it'll pull 2 amps max @12V; you could use a 3 amp or larger fuse. The cell phone should pull less juice than the GPS. Make sure the wire can handle more than the fuse. Bob Ron Fine wrote: > I'm going to add a power outlet to my BN7 for cell phone and GPS. I think I > should put a fuse inline. What size fuse should I use?? > > Thanks, > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 20:36:16 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:36:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuse for power takeoff In-Reply-To: <4A233D84.1040306@comcast.net> References: <4A233D84.1040306@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A233EA0.2020200@comcast.net> Of course, if you're going to use both at the same time add the power consumption for both. bs Bob Spidell wrote: > Ron, > > The GPS should have a power rating somewhere in the literature or on the > case, expressed in amps or watts (if it's in watts, divide by 12 to get > amps). Allow some cushion (50-100%). For example, if the power > consumption rating for the GPS is 24 watts, it'll pull 2 amps max @12V; > you could use a 3 amp or larger fuse. The cell phone should pull less > juice than the GPS. > > Make sure the wire can handle more than the fuse. > > > > Bob > > > > Ron Fine wrote: >> I'm going to add a power outlet to my BN7 for cell phone and GPS. I >> think I >> should put a fuse inline. What size fuse should I use?? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ron Fine >> 61BN7 ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun May 31 23:06:16 2009 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:06:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New Subscriber In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Welcome, You find many helpful and some informed people on the list;) Glad you sorted out how to beat the filters. Cheers I Erbs Sent from my iPod On May 31, 2009, at 4:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > Hi Folks-- > > I'm a new subscriber here (sort of) and look forward to getting lots > of > emails now that I have signed up using this gmail address. FWIW I > have not > been receiving posts regularly for several weeks. > > Best--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive