From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  1 05:03:23 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 04:03:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
Message-ID: <902863.81558.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone doing a video or are there any videos out there

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jul  1 07:50:39 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 09:50:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <c77.4bac0391.377cc3af@aol.com>

**************Dell Laptops: Huge Savings on Popular Laptops b Deals
starting at
$399(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222883570x1201497211/aol?redir=
http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D0)

From don at anglesey.us  Wed Jul  1 08:30:53 2009
From: don at anglesey.us (Don)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 08:30:53 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] paint and interior
In-Reply-To: <8327D8A6-69FD-4AC5-AC04-F4714D9519FC@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAArjc8DlOpI0OdpbgspWSgDgEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

Paint first then install carpet.  Sounds like something that could lead
up to a frame up restoration.
Don
57' BN4

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 7:54 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] paint and interior

If you are going to paint and recarpet a BN1 and redo door panels with  
a professional job,which is better to do first?
_______________________________________________

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Jul  1 11:59:49 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 10:59:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] paint and interior
References: <8327D8A6-69FD-4AC5-AC04-F4714D9519FC@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <88A1837841A24807B0643D57C240CA92@LIFEBOOK>

Jess,

I don't quite understand the wording of your question. It is always 
recommended to do any preparation and painting of the car first. The 
interior components should always follow after, avoiding contamination by 
the inevitable body shop dust and overspray. Also, with no interior in the 
way, the exterior colour can extend into covering all the metal surfaces of 
the chassis and body shell throughout the interior areas as it was 
originally.

Did I answer your question?

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jess Power" <jessmd1 at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 6:53 PM
Subject: [Healeys] paint and interior


> If you are going to paint and recarpet a BN1 and redo door panels with  a 
> professional job,which is better to do first?

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jul  1 09:16:32 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 11:16:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <c00.5e9756f6.377cd7d0@aol.com>

**************Dell Laptops: Huge Savings on Popular Laptops b Deals
starting at
$399(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222883570x1201497211/aol?redir=
http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D0)

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Jul  1 11:13:16 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 10:13:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear seat vertical wood question
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502FFE@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

The factory parts book lists 1/4 x 1 3/8 countersink screws quantity of
4 for "panel to wheel arch". The screws are CMZ0422. Countersink screws
are correct as you can see the dimples in the sheet metal.
My car seems to have the 4 screws. Does anybody only have 2 screws?
Maybe this changed with the seat belt anchoring change?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul  1 11:54:57 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 10:54:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear seat vertical wood question
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502FFE@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAIEBEDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Ken,
My '67 had only 2 (one on each side) but I recall they were bolts, not
screws. Can't find a photo of them at the moment. Maybe it had more to do
with cost, 2 being cheaper than 4. There are still the three screws that
hold the squab to the seat surround.

Cheers,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
The factory parts book lists 1/4 x 1 3/8 countersink screws quantity of
4 for "panel to wheel arch". The screws are CMZ0422. Countersink screws
are correct as you can see the dimples in the sheet metal.
My car seems to have the 4 screws. Does anybody only have 2 screws?
Maybe this changed with the seat belt anchoring change?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Jul  1 14:33:48 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 13:33:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Answer for BJ8 rear seat
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150300C@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

 I got the answer from the Concours Guide:
"On Phase I BJ8s there were two
of these screws per side. This continued into the Phase II BJ8s, and it
appears that only one
screw per side was used, starting with the introduction of separate turn
indicator lights
(front and back - in 1966)."

Ken Freese
65 BJ8 Phase II (late suspension)

From dwflagg at juno.com  Wed Jul  1 15:10:11 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 17:10:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BMC AM Radio
Message-ID: <20090701.141034.13510.1860@mailpop04.dca.untd.com>

I have a working, rust free, reverse polarity, BMC (Motorola)  push
button AM 
radio for the BJ8. Pictures available. If you have an interest please 
contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Criminal Lawyers - Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOVoLZZOZHJrIcdyCS40FHI3ypjMzUKapkjsRZdq8qrtmsHDl7468/

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  1 17:48:42 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:48:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint Removal Help Needed
Message-ID: <000601c9faa6$77926dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I just discovered a couple of patches (1 inch length)  of body paint from the
new paint job, on my newly covered vinyl dash.    The paint has set up for
about a week now.   What does the list suggest to remove the paint without
hurting the vinyl.

I tried lightly heating it with a blow dryer and scraping lightly with a dull
knife.  No good.

What next?     Before the panic sets in.

Thanks Mark

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Wed Jul  1 17:54:22 2009
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 18:54:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
Message-ID: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>

List -

I am about to put new brake pads on my BJ8 along with anti-squeal  
shims. Should I apply anti-squeal spray to any side of the shims or  
pads?  If so, which side(s)?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Jul  1 18:02:24 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 17:02:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paint Removal Help Needed
In-Reply-To: <000601c9faa6$77926dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000601c9faa6$77926dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY130-W4C37D79CCA598E15929A1A42F0@phx.gbl>

Try a clay bar and folow the instructions about lubricating the surface. Also
Goof-Off sold at paint and hardware stores will do the trick.

Rich Kahn
> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:48:42 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Paint Removal Help Needed
>
> I just discovered a couple of patches (1 inch length) of body paint from
the
> new paint job, on my newly covered vinyl dash. The paint has set up for
> about a week now. What does the list suggest to remove the paint without
> hurting the vinyl.
>
> I tried lightly heating it with a blow dryer and scraping lightly with a
dull
> knife. No good.
>
> What next? Before the panic sets in.
>
> Thanks Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 18:15:37 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 08:15:37 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
In-Reply-To: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
References: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907011715y4862ed55g9abff7bb0a42c835@mail.gmail.com>

Price -

Others have different experiences, but I have had the shims only with
no spray or goo, just like factory OEM spec - I've had no squeeks for
15 years.

I have had squeeks once or twice in the past when the shim fused to
the back of the pad over time - pulled the pad and seperated the shim
and voila, no squeaks again.

So in my opinion, just don't do it.

Alan

On 7/2/09, R. Price Lindsay <price at advocateadvisors.com> wrote:
> List -
>
> I am about to put new brake pads on my BJ8 along with anti-squeal
> shims. Should I apply anti-squeal spray to any side of the shims or
> pads?  If so, which side(s)?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed Jul  1 19:10:32 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 2009 21:10:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Answer for BJ8 rear seat
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150300C@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150300C@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <4A4C0907.2060600@htcnet.org>

That sounds right.  I have a phase I 1964, it has two, and a phase II 
1966 and it has one.

John
Hightown, VA

Freese, Ken wrote:
>  I got the answer from the Concours Guide:
> "On Phase I BJ8s there were two
> of these screws per side. This continued into the Phase II BJ8s, and it
> appears that only one
> screw per side was used, starting with the introduction of separate turn
> indicator lights
> (front and back - in 1966)."
>
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8 Phase II (late suspension)

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Wed Jul  1 19:27:03 2009
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:27:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor
Message-ID: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>

Hi All
        On my BN1 I have fitted 1 3/4 carbs with cold box. Question is the
over flow pipe from carburetor bowl goes into cold box
        as shown in healey restoration book however I have been advised not to
do this as it can effect balancing of carburetors
        I cannot under stand the logic behind this what are your comments.
        Regards Keith
        BT7
        BNI

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Jul  1 19:51:38 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:51:38 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor
In-Reply-To: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>
References: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <8F1AD77F277648E5B98953F7BC6EE985@PeterPC>

Hi Keith

I understand the theory behind this is to balance the pressure in the float 
chambers. However, I didn't do this with the Ward Spl when I put the cold 
air box on - the overflows just go to air down below the manifold. No ill 
effects that I can tell!

Cheers

Peter
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:27 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor


> Hi All
>        On my BN1 I have fitted 1 3/4 carbs with cold box. Question is the
> over flow pipe from carburetor bowl goes into cold box
>        as shown in healey restoration book however I have been advised not 
> to
> do this as it can effect balancing of carburetors
>        I cannot under stand the logic behind this what are your comments.
>        Regards Keith
>        BT7
>        BNI
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul  1 21:03:01 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 20:03:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Used Hood For Sale
Message-ID: <BLU144-W17745D3FC78A649CA94474DB2F0@phx.gbl>

If anyone is looking for a used hood, here's one about 60 miles north of
Phoenix, Az





sale-ag9zz-1240652859 at craigslist.org



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 21:40:51 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:40:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor
In-Reply-To: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>
References: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907012040o3a606db4j65a89df4f1dc23f1@mail.gmail.com>

Keith -

I think the deal is if they vent into the cold air box, and they are sealed
to the box like they were from the factory, you'll get positive air pressure
from the box pushing on the fuel chambers, causing the carbs to run rich
when you are driving fast.  I can't say for certain as I don't have a cold
air box on my BN1.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi All
>        On my BN1 I have fitted 1 3/4 carbs with cold box. Question is the
> over flow pipe from carburetor bowl goes into cold box
>        as shown in healey restoration book however I have been advised not
> to
> do this as it can effect balancing of carburetors
>        I cannot under stand the logic behind this what are your comments.
>        Regards Keith
>        BT7
>        BNI

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul  2 01:31:00 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:31:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Paint Removal Help Needed
In-Reply-To: <000601c9faa6$77926dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000601c9faa6$77926dd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4A4C6234.5090204@chello.nl>

Mark,
Which paint has been used. If it is a one pack paint you may get away 
with a dissolvent like white spirits if the paint is fresh. Thinner is 
probably to strong, depending on the material. Always try on a scrap of 
the vinyl first if it will take the solvent.
Two pack paint will only respond to an abrasive treatment like T-cut.
It cannot be said often enough: First paint, than do the rest.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Mark LaPierre schreef:
> I just discovered a couple of patches (1 inch length)  of body paint from the
> new paint job, on my newly covered vinyl dash.    The paint has set up for
> about a week now.   What does the list suggest to remove the paint without
> hurting the vinyl.
>
> I tried lightly heating it with a blow dryer and scraping lightly with a dull
> knife.  No good.
>
> What next?     Before the panic sets in.
>
> Thanks Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.1/2212 - Release Date: 07/01/09 05:53:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul  2 01:34:05 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:34:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
In-Reply-To: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
References: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <4A4C62ED.9030708@chello.nl>

Both sides and on the sliding surfaces of the calipers. I always use 
copper grease from a cannister. With spray there is always the chance of 
contamination.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


R. Price Lindsay schreef:
> List -
>
> I am about to put new brake pads on my BJ8 along with anti-squeal 
> shims. Should I apply anti-squeal spray to any side of the shims or 
> pads?  If so, which side(s)?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.1/2212 - Release Date: 07/01/09 05:53:00

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Thu Jul  2 07:12:15 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:12:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] parking brake
Message-ID: <869A20DECBAB413586EBD810527AF4E6@AtkinsonPC>

Any advice on removing the button and overall disassembly of the parking
brake? 

Thanks,

 

Simon

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul  2 07:15:39 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:15:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <bb9.488649d8.377e0cfb@aol.com>

I apologize for continuing to send test messages to the list. As of June
10, I have not received any new messages including copies of my own. I have
attempted to re-subscribe, but still nothing. I have not changed any of my
security settings & have contacted AOL to confirm that the settings are
correct. If someone knows how to correct this situation, please contact me
directly. If you just want to expound on how terrible AOL is please don't!
Gary Hodson
**************Dell Summer Savings: Cool Deals on Popular Laptops b Shop
Now!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222696924x1201468348/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D1)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 07:21:41 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 06:21:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
In-Reply-To: <4A4C62ED.9030708@chello.nl>
References: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
	<4A4C62ED.9030708@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4A4CB465.9080108@comcast.net>

Anyone know how/why the shims and/or paste work?  I know the shims cant the pads 
away from the direction of rotation of the rotor, but what's the theory behind 
either?


Bob


Oudesluys wrote:
> Both sides and on the sliding surfaces of the calipers. I always use 
> copper grease from a cannister. With spray there is always the chance of 
> contamination.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> 
> 
> R. Price Lindsay schreef:
>> List -
>>
>> I am about to put new brake pads on my BJ8 along with anti-squeal 
>> shims. Should I apply anti-squeal spray to any side of the shims or 
>> pads?  If so, which side(s)?
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Jul  2 07:22:50 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Healey List)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:22:50 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] test
In-Reply-To: <bb9.488649d8.377e0cfb@aol.com>
References: <bb9.488649d8.377e0cfb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0415F8AD-FB38-4FF5-8825-A57E173617C1@gmail.com>

My advice is to just Set up a separate gmail account just for this list

Sent from my iPhone

On 02/07/2009, at 11:15 PM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> I apologize for continuing to send test messages to the list. As of
> June
> 10, I have not received any new messages including copies of my own.
> I have
> attempted to re-subscribe, but still nothing. I have not changed any
> of my
> security settings & have contacted AOL to confirm that the settings
> are
> correct. If someone knows how to correct this situation, please
> contact me
> directly. If you just want to expound on how terrible AOL is please
> don't!
> Gary Hodson
> **************Dell Summer Savings: Cool Deals on Popular Laptops b
> Shop
> Now!
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222696924x1201468348/aol?redir=http
> :%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Thu Jul  2 08:00:56 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] parking brake
In-Reply-To: <869A20DECBAB413586EBD810527AF4E6@AtkinsonPC>
References: <869A20DECBAB413586EBD810527AF4E6@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <003b01c9fb1d$859b2350$90d169f0$@com>

The button unscrews from its actuating rod, although these are often very
tight.
I have always found it best to remove the entire assembly after removing the
right seat. 
If you remove the 2 mounting screws you can wiggle the assembly out of the
tunnel and remove the clevis attaching the cable to the lever. 
If you can't get things out far enough disconnect the other end of the cable
from the compensator on the rear axle casing to allow you to pull more cable
through.

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon & Christine Atkinson
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:12 AM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: [Healeys] parking brake

Any advice on removing the button and overall disassembly of the parking
brake? 

Thanks,

 

Simon
_______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul  2 08:06:21 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 16:06:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
In-Reply-To: <4A4CB465.9080108@comcast.net>
References: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com>
	<4A4C62ED.9030708@chello.nl> <4A4CB465.9080108@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A4CBEDD.6070904@chello.nl>

There are 2 theories.
-the grease acts as a damper to counteract vibration
-the grease lubricates to the point that the metal does not stick and 
screetches and just slides and does not vibrate
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Bob Spidell schreef:
> Anyone know how/why the shims and/or paste work?  I know the shims 
> cant the pads away from the direction of rotation of the rotor, but 
> what's the theory behind either?
>
>
> Bob

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Jul  2 08:23:47 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 07:23:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Front brake pad knock (no squeal)
Message-ID: <CEB78C26F2754E7983E5C09119E089A1@TRACY>

Has anyone experienced a knock from front brake pad slop?  Happens to mine
after the brake pad lube has dried or been wicked by brake dust.

I use a small dollop of disk brake lube at the read contact points between
caliber and back/edges of pads.



It will probably go away if I were to get motivated enough to pull the
wheels and pads and clean the areas up again.  I do this once a year but not
yet this season.  There is plenty of pad left but I expect better fit from
the next set of pads.  I do not remember where this set came from only that
they were new when installed a few years back along with anti squeal shims.
I have never had squeal just the know upon initial application of brake
pedal.



Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Jul  2 08:28:18 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 07:28:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907012040o3a606db4j65a89df4f1dc23f1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A69A42040A524A8E953FAC8B3935BB0F@KeithDell>
	<ff59076c0907012040o3a606db4j65a89df4f1dc23f1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503023@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

On the 100S, it was certainly done for mixture purposes. If 100M carb
needles are different than a BN1, try them. The only way to test
effectivness is probably an O2 sensor while you drive with and without
the overflow tubes installed.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Jul  2 08:29:16 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 07:29:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Front brake pad knock (no squeal)
In-Reply-To: <CEB78C26F2754E7983E5C09119E089A1@TRACY>
Message-ID: <56F9214969444BEDAD68DBED4C8DFAD4@TRACY>

Darn auto spell checker !!

Read=rear
Know=knock

Jeeeeeze - computer is too smart for it's own good.................

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 7:24 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Front brake pad knock (no squeal)

Has anyone experienced a knock from front brake pad slop?  Happens to mine
after the brake pad lube has dried or been wicked by brake dust.

I use a small dollop of disk brake lube at the read contact points between
caliber and back/edges of pads.



It will probably go away if I were to get motivated enough to pull the
wheels and pads and clean the areas up again.  I do this once a year but not
yet this season.  There is plenty of pad left but I expect better fit from
the next set of pads.  I do not remember where this set came from only that
they were new when installed a few years back along with anti squeal shims.
I have never had squeal just the know upon initial application of brake
pedal.



Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Jul  2 08:31:25 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 10:31:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test
In-Reply-To: <bb9.488649d8.377e0cfb@aol.com>
References: <bb9.488649d8.377e0cfb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBC938EA131309-6CC-200B@WEBMAIL-MA14.sysops.aol.com>

Gary--

You and all?AOL users are in the same boat so do what I did and get a free gmail account and then resubscribe to autox with that address, electing on gmail to have all your incoming mail forwarded to your aol account.? As you can see I can still post from my aol account and I read others' posts as well as my own on aol?via the forwarding, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt



I have not changed any of my
security settings & have contacted AOL to confirm that the settings are
correct. If someone knows how to correct this situation, please contact me
directly.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Jul  2 12:25:35 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:25:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
References: <96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E@advocateadvisors.com><4A4C62ED.9030708@chello.nl>
	<4A4CB465.9080108@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BCA3274FE101491F8254861DF50624B8@LIFEBOOK>

Hi Bob,

Brake squeal is simply a high frequency vibration of the pad against the 
piston. If this can be interrupted by a shim (usually but not always works). 
Any sort of grease or other substance between the parts will dampen the 
vibration. If shims don't stop the squeal, a high temp. silicone grease 
smeared lightly between the parts will do it.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes


> Anyone know how/why the shims and/or paste work?  I know the shims cant 
> the pads away from the direction of rotation of the rotor, but what's the 
> theory behind either?
>
>
> Bob

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Thu Jul  2 09:31:09 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 08:31:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
Message-ID: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I had a brand new gas cover that fell off on Tuesday.  I want to order one of
the Aston Martin flip type with lock.  Until that arrives, what will fit our
cars?  Can I go to NAPA and get a cap that will fit an old Chevy truck.  My
memory says they are the same size?

Jerry
BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 09:43:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 15:43:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
In-Reply-To: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <1916153711.1651901246549434633.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I got a replacement from Autozone a few years back. IIRC, they were able to cross-reference the A-H part. Fits perfectly. 

I carry a spare cap in my onboard parts cache--forgetting to re-install the cap is one of my paranoias. 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> 
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Thursday, July 2, 2009 8:31:09 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap 

I had a brand new gas cover that fell off on Tuesday. I want to order one of 
the Aston Martin flip type with lock. Until that arrives, what will fit our 
cars? Can I go to NAPA and get a cap that will fit an old Chevy truck. My 
memory says they are the same size? 

Jerry 
BJ8 

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Jul  2 09:47:03 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:47:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys]  Front brake pad knock (no squeal)
Message-ID: <a06200701c67285b09ec8@[192.168.0.102]>

I've had that knock on the pads. I found that the hole in the metal 
portion of the pad that the pin goes through wears out of roumd, and 
there is some room for the pad to move over the pin.  This results in 
a light knock. This seems to happen well before the pad itself is 
worn, so I don't get it on new pads, but after a few thousand miles.

Stephen,
BJ8

From Edward.Santoro at drbc.state.nj.us  Thu Jul  2 09:56:39 2009
From: Edward.Santoro at drbc.state.nj.us (Ed Santoro)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:56:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] dented oil pan
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKELDDJAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKELDDJAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4A4CD8B7.4010105@drbc.state.nj.us>

To the list:  I am looking for some factory Hardtop Bits for my BN4 L.  
Can someone send me a link?  Thanks, EDS

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  2 10:10:34 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:10:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dented oil pan
In-Reply-To: <4A4CD8B7.4010105@drbc.state.nj.us>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKELDDJAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<4A4CD8B7.4010105@drbc.state.nj.us>
Message-ID: <80FE7549-7009-4410-B41A-124479861243@sbcglobal.net>

What parts are you looking for for a hardtop.
We do have some misc pieces for a hardtop



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 2, 2009, at 8:56 AM, Ed Santoro wrote:

> To the list:  I am looking for some factory Hardtop Bits for my BN4  
> L.  Can someone send me a link?  Thanks, EDS
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  2 10:12:55 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
In-Reply-To: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <CE9433D1-0CE0-4248-B7F1-92B4D13E4281@sbcglobal.net>

Jerry, we have one in stock it is not a locking style


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 2, 2009, at 8:31 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote:

> I had a brand new gas cover that fell off on Tuesday.  I want to  
> order one of
> the Aston Martin flip type with lock.  Until that arrives, what  
> will fit our
> cars?  Can I go to NAPA and get a cap that will fit an old Chevy  
> truck.  My
> memory says they are the same size?
>
> Jerry
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Hartangus at aol.com  Thu Jul  2 10:15:21 2009
From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:15:21 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] cannot contact list
Message-ID: <cbb.3a59a74d.377e3719@aol.com>

test

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  2 10:24:40 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:24:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Used Hood For Sale
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W17745D3FC78A649CA94474DB2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W17745D3FC78A649CA94474DB2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BB95087A-0086-4381-BBB1-E891BE16DBAB@sbcglobal.net>

Dan, I have a couple of hoods in various conditions for all the
Healey's 100, 100/6 early,  3000s




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:03 PM, Dan wrote:

> If anyone is looking for a used hood, here's one about 60 miles
> north of
> Phoenix, Az
>
>
>
>
>
> sale-ag9zz-1240652859 at craigslist.org
>
>
>
> Dan Serrao
>
> 1963 BJ7
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?
> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  2 10:30:19 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:30:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap
Message-ID: <191472.30214.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thinking of putting a leather bonnet strap on my BJ7 (to remind me of the
solid 100M I passed on in the early 80s for $5k, aargh!) Do folks use one of
the 100M ones for this or is it a custom job? 

Thanks,
Rick

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul  2 10:36:11 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:36:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
In-Reply-To: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <00a401c9fb33$357b0b90$a07122b0$@rr.com>

Jerry, I lost my gas cap somewhere in Indiana during the trip to Lake Tahoe
in '02.  At the next NAPA I came to, I went in and asked for a cap for a '66
Austin-Healey.  The guy asked, "Locking or non-locking?"  ;^).
You should be able to get one at NAPA that's pretty close to the original
style cap.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:31 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap

I had a brand new gas cover that fell off on Tuesday.  I want to order one
of
the Aston Martin flip type with lock.  Until that arrives, what will fit our
cars?  Can I go to NAPA and get a cap that will fit an old Chevy truck.  My
memory says they are the same size?

Jerry
BJ8

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul  2 10:38:36 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:38:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
In-Reply-To: <1916153711.1651901246549434633.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<1916153711.1651901246549434633.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00a501c9fb33$8bf6a1f0$a3e3e5d0$@rr.com>

I try to make it a habit to put the fuel cap in my pocket while refueling.
Anyplace else and it's likely to be left behind, as has happened to me
before.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:44 AM
To: Jerry Costanzo
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] lost my gas cap

I got a replacement from Autozone a few years back. IIRC, they were able to
cross-reference the A-H part. Fits perfectly. 

I carry a spare cap in my onboard parts cache--forgetting to re-install the
cap is one of my paranoias. 


bs 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 10:43:16 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 16:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap
In-Reply-To: <191472.30214.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1408827561.1679941246552996727.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My dad went to a farm supply store--e.g. Tractor Supply--and got a nice strap and clips for our 100M. Probably under the 'saddles' section. 

bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 2, 2009 9:30:19 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap 

Thinking of putting a leather bonnet strap on my BJ7 (to remind me of the 
solid 100M I passed on in the early 80s for $5k, aargh!) Do folks use one of 
the 100M ones for this or is it a custom job? 

Thanks, 
Rick 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul  2 10:52:23 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 18:52:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Front brake pad knock (no squeal)
In-Reply-To: <CEB78C26F2754E7983E5C09119E089A1@TRACY>
References: <CEB78C26F2754E7983E5C09119E089A1@TRACY>
Message-ID: <4A4CE5C7.2020407@chello.nl>

Bad fitting pads because of wear of the metal backing or low quality not 
properly fitting pads. On rare occasions there may be some wear on the 
callipers. It does not usually affect safety, it is merely anoying. 
Copper grease or similar will lessen it to some extend as do some anti 
squeal shims, depending on construction.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Tracy Drummond schreef:
> Has anyone experienced a knock from front brake pad slop?  Happens to mine
> after the brake pad lube has dried or been wicked by brake dust.
>
> I use a small dollop of disk brake lube at the read contact points between
> caliber and back/edges of pads.
>
>
>
> It will probably go away if I were to get motivated enough to pull the
> wheels and pads and clean the areas up again.  I do this once a year but not
> yet this season.  There is plenty of pad left but I expect better fit from
> the next set of pads.  I do not remember where this set came from only that
> they were new when installed a few years back along with anti squeal shims.
> I have never had squeal just the know upon initial application of brake
> pedal.
>
>
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.2/2214 - Release Date: 07/02/09 05:54:00

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Jul  2 11:46:25 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 10:46:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
Message-ID: <01b601c9fb3d$0829e530$187daf90$@com>

Rich Chrysler wrote:

 

"Brake squeal is simply a high frequency vibration of the pad against the

piston. If this can be interrupted by a shim (usually but not always works).

Any sort of grease or other substance between the parts will dampen the

vibration. If shims don't stop the squeal, a high temp. silicone grease

smeared lightly between the parts will do it."

 

I've used duct tape on the back of the pads. Spray gasket, works, too.

 

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Thu Jul  2 12:03:59 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Used Hood For Sale
Message-ID: <26391289.1246557840173.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I have about 6 Hoods (bonnets) for 100/6 or 3000 including a longbridge in
Atlanta.

John Homonek
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

-----Original Message-----
>From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2009 12:24 PM
>To: Dan <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
>Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Used Hood For Sale
>
>Dan, I have a couple of hoods in various conditions for all the
>Healey's 100, 100/6 early,  3000s
>
>
>
>
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca 95205
>209-948-8767
>
>www.britishcarspecialists.com
>..
>..
>
>On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:03 PM, Dan wrote:
>
>> If anyone is looking for a used hood, here's one about 60 miles
>> north of
>> Phoenix, Az
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> sale-ag9zz-1240652859 at craigslist.org
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan Serrao
>>
>> 1963 BJ7
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
>> http://windowslive.com/explore?
>> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  2 15:00:04 2009
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:00:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap
Message-ID: <552805.59556.qm@web31504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you go to the 100M Registry they sell them there.  NFI

Joe
BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
BN2 100M
BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid

--- On Thu, 7/2/09, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, July 2, 2009, 12:30 PM

Thinking of putting a leather bonnet strap on my BJ7 (to remind me of the
solid 100M I passed on in the early 80s for $5k, aargh!) Do folks use one of
the 100M ones for this or is it a custom job?

Thanks,
Rick
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ah53 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Thu Jul  2 16:15:22 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 15:15:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
References: <004401c9fb2a$1f9f6db0$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<00a401c9fb33$357b0b90$a07122b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <001901c9fb62$979f3510$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

NAPA guys says no listing in his computer.  He was too lazy to use the 
catalogs.  So I asked him to give me a cap for a 56 Chevy truck.  Fit 
perfect and is even Chrome!

Jerry

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  2 16:43:55 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 18:43:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] parking brake
In-Reply-To: <869A20DECBAB413586EBD810527AF4E6@AtkinsonPC>
References: <869A20DECBAB413586EBD810527AF4E6@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W20326F4AC1961A0B6E5B63C82F0@phx.gbl>

Simon,

Here are some pictures of my disassembled hand brake parts in the order in
which they are reassembled.  I hope from these you can see how to take things
apart with confidence.  I know that the list strips the attachments.  If they
are of interest to any others, let me know and I will send them to John Sims'
site.

Take care,

George Haywood
'65 bj8 (resting from the Great Conclave trip and event)



> From: satkinson7314 at charter.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 09:12:15 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] parking brake
>
> Any advice on removing the button and overall disassembly of the parking
> brake?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009

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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 17:13:21 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 16:13:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
Message-ID: <66C9211FF1074B0EBD63F14A35CBBC21@LeonardPCPC>

> After refueling and driving away from a gas station, I was often concerned
> that I had not replaced my locking gas cap.  I can not see the installed 
> cap from the driver's seat so I would have to stop and look.  Now, I have 
> gotten into the habit of leaving my keys, including the ignition key, in 
> the locking cap.  That way, I can not drive the car without replacing the 
> cap and retrieving the ignition key.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:38 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] lost my gas cap
>
>
>>I try to make it a habit to put the fuel cap in my pocket while refueling.
>> Anyplace else and it's likely to be left behind, as has happened to me
>> before.
>>
>> Steve Byers

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Jul  2 17:33:44 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:33:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Leather Bonnet Strap
Message-ID: <d51.4fd5a3e1.377e9dd8@aol.com>

I had a bonnet strap made to replace the one that came with my car.  I
don't know anything about the grades of leather but the person who made it
used
 a relatively soft hide which always flaps annoyingly at speed and
stretches when  it gets wet.  I would talk to a saddlery and explain the
application--no  doubt there are different grades/thicknesses of leather
better suited
to  this use.

Best--Michael Oritt
**************Dell Summer Savings: Cool Deals on Popular Laptops b Shop
Now!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222696924x1201468348/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D1)

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  2 18:05:28 2009
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 00:05:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Strap  -
Message-ID: <BAY103-W28709051B92B04F2DCEE35D12C0@phx.gbl>

Cape International in the UK sells a nice bonnet strap for 51.95 British
Pounds, less than half the price of the one from the 100M Registry when you
consider that in order to buy it, you have to be a member.



Jean Caron

Vintage Roadster Restoration

_________________________________________________________________
Internet explorer 8 lets you browse the web faster.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655582

From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 21:16:44 2009
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:16:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
Message-ID: <A92B6A0BD026407E89383392F9401D7B@ElComputero>

Price,
When it comes to sprays and other anti-squeal goops make 
sure you use something that does not dry hard or have adhesive 
qualities.  Many of the easier-to-find squeal chemicals harden
like glue, and will cement your shim and pad to the piston rubber 
dust boot.  Then the next time the pad is disturbed the boot gets
torn, leaving the piston exposed to grit and wet.  Sta-Lube and
CRC both make an anti-squeal product called caliper grease.  I
have found it to be the most effective squeal remedy of all I have
tried, and it stays mooshy, lubricating the rubber instead of tearing
it.
regards,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks


>Message: 4
>Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 18:54:22 -0500
>From: "R. Price Lindsay" <price at advocateadvisors.com>
>Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
>To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID:
><96DD1755-3E27-4848-AE51-9FB7654F267E at advocateadvisors.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes; charset="us-ascii"
>
>List -
>
>I am about to put new brake pads on my BJ8 along with anti-squeal  
>shims. Should I apply anti-squeal spray to any side of the shims or  
>pads?  If so, which side(s)?
>
>Price Lindsay
>67 BJ8

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  2 18:23:56 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 17:23:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
Message-ID: <786989.3721.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    If you have squeaky brakes on a bicycle or a Austin Healey you need to
toe-in the brake pads, on a bicycle you can  tweak in the brake pad arms with
a wrench to give it toe- in .. you cant do that with your Healey but if you
look at the shim it shows how it should fit , this will give you a toe-in upon
application of the brakes ...The squeak comes from the worn rotor , a good
smooth rotor you should be able to draw a solid line across the rotor surface
, with a ball point pen , not a dotted line More info. is in A/H Magazine Jan
1994  or my Tech Talk book page 5         Norman Nock

--- On Thu, 7/2/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, July 2, 2009, 11:25 AM

Hi Bob,

Brake squeal is simply a high frequency vibration of the pad against the
piston. If this can be interrupted by a shim (usually but not always works).
Any sort of grease or other substance between the parts will dampen the
vibration. If shims don't stop the squeal, a high temp. silicone grease
smeared lightly between the parts will do it.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Squealing Brakes


> Anyone know how/why the shims and/or paste work?  I know the shims cant the
pads away from the direction of rotation of the rotor, but what's the theory
behind either?
>
>
> Bob
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 19:12:05 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 18:12:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Strap  -
In-Reply-To: <BAY103-W28709051B92B04F2DCEE35D12C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY103-W28709051B92B04F2DCEE35D12C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A4D5AE5.2020008@comcast.net>

Here's one I came across on the BCF:

http://www.kirks-auto.com/AustinHealey100/LeMansBonnetStrap.html


Jean Caron wrote:
> Cape International in the UK sells a nice bonnet strap for 51.95 British
> Pounds, less than half the price of the one from the 100M Registry when you
> consider that in order to buy it, you have to be a member.
> 
> 
> 
> Jean Caron
> 
> Vintage Roadster Restoration

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From pennell at cox.net  Thu Jul  2 21:13:33 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:13:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Express.com ad
Message-ID: <20090702231333.BCJ6P.155606.imail@eastrmwml34>

Listers,

Many of you have probably seen it already.  Got a flyer Tues in the mail from express.com.  The cover has a gorgeous model walking in front of a red BJ8 Mk III.  Car looks great and so does the model!

Inside is a shot of more models and you can see a bit of the side of the car.

These ad agencies really know how to pick a classic car to draw attention to their products don't they?

Does she belong to anyone on the list - the car not the model?

Keith Pennell

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Thu Jul  2 22:02:04 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 21:02:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge discussion
Message-ID: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I had sent my temp/oil pressure gauge to MOMA for repair.  It came back
looking new (in fact, I thought it was new).  The temp gauge seems to run
about 20 degrees hot when it gets above 190.  On my BN4, the gauge always
increases when you shut off the engine for a few min.  But that temp may go up
to about 212.  On my BJ8, the needle will go all the way past the water temps
and into the oil pressure to the 80 mark.    I know that these temp gauges
will only take so much heat before they no longer operate.   I used one of the
laser gun temp gauges to show the engine is actually at about 190, even though
the gauge shows it is 210.
The only differences between the two cars is the type of thermostat.  The BJ8
has one with the extra sleeves.

So the question is:   Live with the gauge, since I know the engine is not that
hot.
                               Replace the thermostat to one that does not
have the extra sleeve.
                                Adjust the gauge???

Thanks

Jerry
BN4
BJ8  showing hot

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 22:21:42 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 21:21:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Express.com ad
In-Reply-To: <20090702231333.BCJ6P.155606.imail@eastrmwml34>
References: <20090702231333.BCJ6P.155606.imail@eastrmwml34>
Message-ID: <4A4D8756.3020702@comcast.net>

re:
"... ad agencies really know how to pick a classic car to draw attention to 
their products don't they?"


They seem, for the most part, to use cars that ooze style and class without 
being pretentious/snobby; i.e. you don't see many exotics--Ferraris, Lambos, 
Porsches, etc.--in ads unless the marketeers are specifically targeting the 
'summer in the Hamptons' crowd. IMO, that's why you see (lots of) Healeys, MGs, 
old Mustangs, old T-Birds and a few old Jags (XK120s, mostly) in a lot of ads. 
Those are classy 'everyman' cars.


bs


pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Many of you have probably seen it already.  Got a flyer Tues in the mail from express.com.  The cover has a gorgeous model walking in front of a red BJ8 Mk III.  Car looks great and so does the model!
> 
> Inside is a shot of more models and you can see a bit of the side of the car.
> 
> These ad agencies really know how to pick a classic car to draw attention to their products don't they?
> 
> Does she belong to anyone on the list - the car not the model?
> 
> Keith Pennell

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  2 22:27:29 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 21:27:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge discussion
In-Reply-To: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4A4D88B1.4060301@comcast.net>

Jerry,


I believe the gauge can be calibrated.  Here's a site with some instructions:

http://www.minimaniauk.co.uk/web/SCatagory/GAUGES/DisplayType/Technical%20Information/DisplayID/201/ArticleV.cfm

--or--

http://tinyurl.com/l7ewf5


MOMA should have calibrated the gauge before they returned it.  Hopefully, it 
was just an oversight.


Bob


Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> I had sent my temp/oil pressure gauge to MOMA for repair.  It came back
> looking new (in fact, I thought it was new).  The temp gauge seems to run
> about 20 degrees hot when it gets above 190.  On my BN4, the gauge always
> increases when you shut off the engine for a few min.  But that temp may go up
> to about 212.  On my BJ8, the needle will go all the way past the water temps
> and into the oil pressure to the 80 mark.    I know that these temp gauges
> will only take so much heat before they no longer operate.   I used one of the
> laser gun temp gauges to show the engine is actually at about 190, even though
> the gauge shows it is 210.
> The only differences between the two cars is the type of thermostat.  The BJ8
> has one with the extra sleeves.
> 
> So the question is:   Live with the gauge, since I know the engine is not that
> hot.
>                                Replace the thermostat to one that does not
> have the extra sleeve.
>                                 Adjust the gauge???
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jerry
> BN4
> BJ8  showing hot



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul  2 23:04:39 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:04:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] An odd OD problem
Message-ID: <00fb01c9fb9b$c5787bc0$9101a8c0@home>

Norman Nock suggested I post my experience, as someone might find it useful. 
Here's the story:

My OD was intermittently engaging, sometimes not at all, and recently not at 
all period.  On some occasions, it would cycle in and out rapidly, 
"chattering" in the process.  In fairness, the first time if failed, I had a 
fried relay, and I purchased a used replacement from the Nocks.  The OD 
worked fine for awhile.  In trying to track down the recurring problem, I 
also purchased from the Nocks and replaced the gear selector switch and 
solenoid, since it acted like the solenoid was not strong enough to hold it 
in engaged.  I also disassembled and renewed the points and adjusted the 
throttle position switch, replaced the dash switch and adjusted the solenoid 
engagement lever per Teck Talk.  But I still had no OD engagement.

Finally, I put the car (a BN7) on jacks and proceeded to test and trace the 
entire circuit, including ground connections.  The meter showed that the 
relay and throttle position switch functioned as they should--a relief.  I 
had power to the gear selector switch and leaving the gear selector switch. 
So I started the car and tested it.  First test the OD engaged.  Second test 
it did not, so I hooked up a meter to the gear selector switch, and had no 
power on the downstream side with the lever in 4th.  I flipped the dash 
switch off, depressed the throttle to open the relay, then flipped the dash 
switch on and the OD chattered.  A friend (an electrician--I needed all the 
help I could get) who was helping me saw the lever on the right side of the 
OD jumping up and down.  I immediately reached for the gear lever to pop it 
out of gear and when I grabbed the lever the OD engaged.  I turned off the 
engine and reconnected the meter to the downstream side of the gear switch. 
Wiggling the gear lever caused an intermittent break in the circuit.  If I 
held the lever firmly to the right in 3rd or 4th, I had current and the OD 
engaged. If I jiggled it to the left WHILE STILL IN GEAR, I had an open or 
rapidly intermittent circuit--which explained the chattering.  The problem? 
The fiber washer on the gear selector switch gave just that much too much 
clearance to prevent the switch from being firmly closed by the gear lever 
when in the 3rd/4th slot.

I don't know if anyone else has had a similar problem, but I removed the 
fiber washer and used a generous amount of Teflon tape on the threads of the 
switch and it tested perfectly.  So I hope I've contributed to the 
collective knowledge base.  Thanks for both your (Norman's) input by phone 
and the info in Tech Talk.


Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  2 23:56:57 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:56:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HAPPY BIRTHDAY DONALD
Message-ID: <ACE4557208BD42FFA5716EA33317DBFE@LeonardPCPC>

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DONALD!

Donald Mitchell Healey,     3 July 1898 - 13 January 1988


(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 01:01:20 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:01:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny
Message-ID: <4e23c7250907030001v3341d0a2qde3f6761d7d7901@mail.gmail.com>

Hope the embedded pictures will pass.






  David Is To Be Returned To Italy

A bit of cultural news for a welcome change.







After a two year loan to the United States ,
Michelangelo's David is being returned to Italy .











*His Proud Sponsors were:  *



***     *




 ------------------------------

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul  3 03:32:52 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 11:32:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge discussion
In-Reply-To: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4A4DD044.1090201@chello.nl>

Jerry,
Check the gauge by inserting the eather bulb in boiling water and wait 
untill the needle settles down after lightly tapping the gauge. If it is 
on 100 degrees C (or F equivalent for boiling water) the meter is correct.
If not correct, adjust the gauge. Take the bezel and glass off. To do 
this you may have to bend back the three tabs on the bezel a bit before 
you can twist and remove it. Prise of the needle using two small screw 
drivers if you do not have a special tool to remove the needle.
Insert the eather bulb in boiling water (keep it boiling) and wait 
untill the needle does not move any more, tap the gauge lightly in the 
proces to get the proper position. Leaving the bulb in the boiling 
water, replace lightly the needle on the 100 degrees C, tap gently on 
the gauge and check the reading for accuracy. If OK press the needle 
home, if not readjust and repeat the procedure untill it reads 
accurately. Let it cool down and replace glass and bezel.
Of course be carefull not to kink the capillary line.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> I had sent my temp/oil pressure gauge to MOMA for repair.  It came back
> looking new (in fact, I thought it was new).  The temp gauge seems to run
> about 20 degrees hot when it gets above 190.  On my BN4, the gauge always
> increases when you shut off the engine for a few min.  But that temp may go up
> to about 212.  On my BJ8, the needle will go all the way past the water temps
> and into the oil pressure to the 80 mark.    I know that these temp gauges
> will only take so much heat before they no longer operate.   I used one of the
> laser gun temp gauges to show the engine is actually at about 190, even though
> the gauge shows it is 210.
> The only differences between the two cars is the type of thermostat.  The BJ8
> has one with the extra sleeves.
>
> So the question is:   Live with the gauge, since I know the engine is not that
> hot.
>                                Replace the thermostat to one that does not
> have the extra sleeve.
>                                 Adjust the gauge???
>
> Thanks
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> BJ8  showing hot
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.3/2216 - Release Date: 07/03/09 05:53:00

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Jul  3 10:25:31 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:25:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge discussion
References: <003401c9fb93$070bd4f0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <883F0BF4F72F44018A1F352EC636E552@XPS400>

I vote for sending the gage back to MOMA.  Sounds like they did not 
calibrate the gage correctly.
Ron



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:02 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge discussion


>I had sent my temp/oil pressure gauge to MOMA for repair.  It came back
> looking new (in fact, I thought it was new).  The temp gauge seems to run
> about 20 degrees hot when it gets above 190.  On my BN4, the gauge always
> increases when you shut off the engine for a few min.  But that temp may 
> go up
> to about 212.  On my BJ8, the needle will go all the way past the water 
> temps
> and into the oil pressure to the 80 mark.    I know that these temp gauges
> will only take so much heat before they no longer operate.   I used one of 
> the
> laser gun temp gauges to show the engine is actually at about 190, even 
> though
> the gauge shows it is 210.
> The only differences between the two cars is the type of thermostat.  The 
> BJ8
> has one with the extra sleeves.
>
> So the question is:   Live with the gauge, since I know the engine is not 
> that
> hot.
>                               Replace the thermostat to one that does not
> have the extra sleeve.
>                                Adjust the gauge???
>
> Thanks

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Fri Jul  3 17:59:20 2009
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 09:59:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
Message-ID: <916224ACD0E24FCB95F882903B8EE50B@KeithDell>

Hi all
        Have an of the members used Koolmat in their cars as insulation and
what are your comments?
        Have you glued it to the floor as recomended or used an alternate way
to use,  ie glue to carpet
        I would be interested in your comments.
        Keith

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  3 18:41:04 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:41:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
Message-ID: <435919.37941.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Keith,

I've spent a couple of hours today researching insulation for my Nasty Boy. 
Seems like there are all sorts of products at all price ranges.  I found this
thread particularly interesting as it presents a number of low cost
alternatives to some of the more spendy alternatives.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html  I
particularly like the faux Lizard Skin and have ordered up some of the ceramic
microspheres to mix into some leftover DP40 I have in the garage.

Hope this helps,
Rick

--- On Fri, 7/3/09, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com> wrote:

From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 3, 2009, 7:59 PM

Hi all
        Have an of the members used Koolmat in their cars as insulation and
what are your comments?
        Have you glued it to the floor as recomended or used an alternate way
to use,  ie glue to carpet
        I would be interested in your comments.
        Keith
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Jul  4 04:59:40 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 10:59:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
Message-ID: <1172596324.229311246705180646.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Keith-




I used the following product under the tranny tunnel on my BJ7:

Look on ebay for:B  AUTOMOTIVE HEAT SHIELD & SOUND INSULATION BARRIER 21x48

or you can use this link: B http://tinyurl.com/kj9wsz




I cut templates of paper before I began to cut this material. It has a stiff
outer layer of aluminum (a good thing, in my mind) and a very sticky back.
Sandwiched in between is a layer of fiberglass insulation. It took a few hours
to apply it to the relatively small area of the tranny cover, but in the end I
thought that this product was the perfect solution to the problem. I have no
fear that it will work itself loose, and the cover never gets more than warm
to the touch.




For the rest of the floor and toe board areas, I used a product from Lowes
that is essentially a double later of bubble wrap sandwicded between layers of
mylar. I looked it up on their website, and I think this is the product:
Reflectix
4' x 25' Double Reflective Foil Insulation




Item #: 13358B B B B B B B Model: BP48025




I fastened it to the firewall and toe board areas using the better quality 3m
trim adhesive. I just trimmed it to fit the floor areas and cut out openings
for the carpet snaps. The carpet keeps it in place. Now, be advised that this
cost me points when I recently was judged concours, but on the 1200 mile
journey i t took to get there, the floors never got too hot. The nice thing is
that I still have the option of switching out this mylar insulation with jute,
for show, if I choose to do so B  for judging next year. I just need to find a
source of the jute material (anyone know of one?).
Regards, Tom

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Jul  4 05:05:10 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 07:05:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
Message-ID: <FC69A557-ED8E-4F81-ADD2-F3B14C668677@mac.com>

Hi folks
I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I  
would try one more time before I give up. Thanks!


Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual  
components attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  
"blueprint" you can refer me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  
for things like height from bottom of oil pan at lowest point to the  
top of the rocker cover (or the vent "T" pipe on the cover), depth  
from fan center to engine backplate, depth from fan center to end of  
the gearbox, width of the block and width from the air cleaners to the  
distributor (widest point of the assembly).

Thanks for sharing if someone has this information.

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  4 05:40:38 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 07:40:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
References: <916224ACD0E24FCB95F882903B8EE50B@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <000401c9fc9c$411e43d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Didn't use the Koolmat but the underlayment that came with my Heritage 
carpet  seems to be very substantial in helping with  keeping the heat down. 
It appears to be about a half inch thick.   Couple this with the Dynamat 
Extreme that I already put down on the entire floor and the inside of the 
tunnel,  I feel that I have done all that I can do to try and beat the 
Healey Heat.

Dynamat Extreme is a "foil backed tarry material" that is self sticking.

Just as a follow up, the Dyamat cuts very easily with conventional scissors 
to any shape that you want.  It is
Goof Proof, in other words you can take it up if you need to change the 
placement  .  However, after the car is ran and the stuff is heated up, I 
assume it tacks to the floor pretty well. ( don't know, I haven't driven the 
car for any extended amount of time yet)  An upside to this is that I don't 
see how any moisture/water can ever get to the inside metal.  I should be 
able to just take out the carpet and towel off the dynamat then let things 
air dry, if I ever get caught in a down poor with my top down.  I bought a 
box for $190. from Eastwood that covers the entire floor, inside tunnel and 
some left over to sound deaden the doors etc.

Mosses cost will nickel and dime you to death for the small amount that they 
offer.

Mark



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 7:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation


> Hi all
>        Have an of the members used Koolmat in their cars as insulation and
> what are your comments?
>        Have you glued it to the floor as recomended or used an alternate 
> way
> to use,  ie glue to carpet
>        I would be interested in your comments.
>        Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jul  4 06:31:05 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 07:31:05 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] wanted-early 3000 sideshift tranny to rebuild. do not
 need bellhousing or OD. respond off list. thanx.
Message-ID: <1053010719.47687.1246710665180.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net>

/JjvuFm: Permission denied

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul  4 09:48:56 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:48:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
References: <FC69A557-ED8E-4F81-ADD2-F3B14C668677@mac.com>
Message-ID: <76A03601D3954DE7925C93FA0B9A31E6@LIFEBOOK>

Lin,

A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were heading to 
Conclave!

- height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover 27"
- length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
- length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
- Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 4:05 AM
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements


> Hi folks
> I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I  would 
> try one more time before I give up. Thanks!
>
>
> Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual  components 
> attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  "blueprint" you can 
> refer me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  for things like height 
> from bottom of oil pan at lowest point to the  top of the rocker cover (or 
> the vent "T" pipe on the cover), depth  from fan center to engine 
> backplate, depth from fan center to end of  the gearbox, width of the 
> block and width from the air cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of 
> the assembly).
>
> Thanks for sharing if someone has this information.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From g.rude at worldnet.att.net  Sat Jul  4 07:26:05 2009
From: g.rude at worldnet.att.net (Gerald Rude)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 06:26:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need Fender Portion
Message-ID: <009401c9fcab$02bd5720$e3cd480c@DJN9Q661>

Hi all,

I pulled out the left front fender from storage the other day, intending on
repairing the lower, rusted section with a new patch panel and discovered the
front of the fender was really mangled by the PO.  So I was wondering if any
one out there may have a piece of a fender laying around which they may want
to part with.

I need from the center of the wheel well forward, basically the head light
area.  Any help much appreciated.

Jerry Rude
Prather California

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Jul  4 08:37:15 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 14:37:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <1589336945.266661246718143631.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1865258239.267051246718235687.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi John-


The B's were a typo resulting from copying and pasting the info from the Lowes
website. Sorry about that. It should have read:


Item #: 13358B Model: BP48025


Regards, Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: tomleavy at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2009 9:02:45 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Insulation

Tom, I am curious about the "B's" that appear in your message and in ot
hers. What character did you originally type that got converted to "B"?

John


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tomleavy at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 7:00 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Insulation

Hi Keith-




I used the following product under the tranny tunnel on my BJ7:

Look on ebay for:B B AUTOMOTIVE HEAT SHIELD & SOUND INSULATION BARRIER 21x48

or you can use this link: B http://tinyurl.com/kj9wsz




I cut templates of paper before I began to cut this material. It has a stiff
outer layer of aluminum (a good thing, in my mind) and a very sticky back.
Sandwiched in between is a layer of fiberglass insulation. It took a few
hours
to apply it to the relatively small area of the tranny cover, but in the end
I
thought that this product was the perfect solution to the problem. I have no
fear that it will work itself loose, and the cover never gets more than warm
to the touch.




For the rest of the floor and toe board areas, I used a product from Lowes
that is essentially a double later of bubble wrap sandwicded between layers
of
mylar. I looked it up on their website, and I think this is the product:
Reflectix
4' x 25' Double Reflective Foil Insulation




Item #: 13358B B B B B B B Model: BP48025




I fastened it to the firewall and toe board areas using the better quality
3m
trim adhesive. I just trimmed it to fit the floor areas and cut out openings
for the carpet snaps. The carpet keeps it in place. Now, be advised that
this
cost me points when I recently was judged concours, but on the 1200 mile
journey i t took to get there, the floors never got too hot. The nice thing
is
that I still have the option of switching out this mylar insulation with
jute,
for show, if I choose to do so B B for judging next year. I just need to find
a
source of the jute material (anyone know of one?).
Regards, Tom
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jul  4 08:48:47 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 07:48:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need Fender Portion
In-Reply-To: <009401c9fcab$02bd5720$e3cd480c@DJN9Q661>
References: <009401c9fcab$02bd5720$e3cd480c@DJN9Q661>
Message-ID: <751d05480907040748x7a765e30xffcd767e2385d692@mail.gmail.com>

What model of Healey?

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 6:26 AM, Gerald Rude <g.rude at worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I pulled out the left front fender from storage the other day, intending on
> repairing the lower, rusted section with a new patch panel and discovered
> the
> front of the fender was really mangled by the PO.  So I was wondering if
> any
> one out there may have a piece of a fender laying around which they may
> want
> to part with.
>
> I need from the center of the wheel well forward, basically the head light
> area.  Any help much appreciated.
>
> Jerry Rude
> Prather California
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sat Jul  4 09:49:47 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:49:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
Message-ID: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!

I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a BJ8.  The
engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the carbs are
set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call normal, about
190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer around
here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is running at least
10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
thermostat.

I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is restricting water
flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to dissipate.

Any theories out there?

Jerry
BN4
BJ8

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sat Jul  4 10:14:42 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 12:14:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Keys Order
Message-ID: <c37.564da576.3780d9f2@aol.com>

Hi Dan-
 
My personal experience with getting proper British car keys has been with  
Pete Grosh. (If he doesn't have them you probably won't find them  anywhere.)
_http://britishcarkeys.com_ (http://britishcarkeys.com)     Unfortunately 
there are no examples shown for Healeys but you may check the  examples shown 
for Jaguar.
 
Our '67 BJ8 PH2 , BLACKIE, has a hexagonal head key for the  ignition/door 
locks FS and the glove box/ boot lid locks are an oblong ("T")  headed FS 
key. I was fortunate to be able to obtain some NOS  replacements from Pete 
Grosh at British Car Keys. 
No financial interest just a satisfied customer.    

Marion

**************It's raining cats and dogs -- Come to PawNation, a place 
where pets rule! (http://www.pawnation.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000008)

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul  4 10:23:23 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 18:23:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4A4F81FB.9060508@chello.nl>

Check the temperature gauges first by inserting the eather bulb in 
boiling water for a while, tapping the gauge regularly untill the 
reading is stable. They are probably both off but you can reset the 
needle at boiling point.
Are the thermostats the same in as: do they open at the same temperature 
and do they have the same flow restriction?
I presume the radiator's are OK.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!
>
> I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a BJ8.  The
> engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the carbs are
> set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call normal, about
> 190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer around
> here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is running at least
> 10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
> thermostat.
>
> I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is restricting water
> flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to dissipate.
>
> Any theories out there?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.3/2217 - Release Date: 07/03/09 18:11:00

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Jul  4 12:30:43 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 18:30:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <387179393.307441246732227539.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1023990020.307481246732243911.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Keith-


Just to follow up, the sticky backed insulation cost $40, and the roll of
mylar bubblewrap cost around $18 bucks. I opted not B to use koolmat or for
that matter dynamat or any of those other asphalt-based products. I didn't
like the fact that it was permanently glued down- think moisture and rust! The
solution that I used allows for removing all materials on the floor in the
event of any water in the cockpit (I was glad that I used this alternative
when I got pounded by rain on my way home from conclave. the passenger floor
was soaked thanks to my new door weatherstripping . I was able to strip down
the bare painted floor, and toweled it dry immediately B with no troubles when
I got home to my garage).


I have also concluded that asphalt does not act as an insulator, rather it
absorbs heat quite effectively- ever walk barefoot on blacktop in the summer?
These asphalt based products like dynamat are great sound deadeners if that's
what you're after, but not the best choice for insulation.


Just thoughts


Regards, Tom

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jul  4 17:56:44 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 09:56:44 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <49DC313558454CE8BB798FF18ADEF6FF@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Jerry

My experience with new engines is that being rebuilt there will be more
friction until it has been run in. More friction is more heat and that
perhaps contributes to the 10 degrees.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Where it's mid winter and cold!

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Sunday, 5 July 2009 1:50 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion

Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!

I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a BJ8.  The
engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the carbs are
set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call normal, about
190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer around
here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is running at
least
10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
thermostat.

I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is restricting water
flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to dissipate.

Any theories out there?

Jerry
BN4
BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jul  4 18:07:06 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 08:07:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>

Jerry -  a new build will run hotter until the rings bed in.  It'll
take probably about 500 miles to seat and then cool down.



On 7/4/09, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
> Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!
>
> I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a BJ8.  The
> engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the carbs are
> set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call normal, about
> 190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer around
> here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is running at
> least
> 10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
> thermostat.
>
> I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is restricting water
> flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to dissipate.
>
> Any theories out there?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul  4 22:06:22 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:06:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Project BN1 3 speed Laygear
Message-ID: <3526D8296361418C905265AB222D78A7@LIFEBOOK>

Hello all,

I have been working with a brilliant machinist who is into CNC machining, CAD
programming, and specializes in gear cutting.
He's looking for challenges in his business and asked me what's needed. I
handed him a later BN1 laygear with a shattered 2nd gear (3rd gear
internally), explaining that this seems to be their weakness and if I had good
laygears and 2nd gears, I could reassemble a number of BN1 gearboxes and put
them back into service.
He happily took this as a personal challenge and has come back to me 4 weeks
later with quotes and a metallurgy report on the original.
It seems that the original is very hard, too hard in his opinion, with a
Rockwell reading of 64 to 66 which is likely why when they let go, they simply
shatter like glass, taking the other gear with it.
Anyway, making the complete laygear new is no problem. Machining and
installing the bronze inserts in each end would be included as part of the
process.
Of course as with anything, the more pieces made, the cheaper it will be.
I am no machinist, but I'll quote what he has said. He gave me 3 prices for
different hardness qualities.

All case hardening to be approx. .020" deep as per original.

He recommends 9310 case hardened where:
-  5 pieces @  $1576
-  20 pieces @ $1335
-  50 pieces @ $1120

Next he quoted 8620 case hardened where:
- 5 pieces @ $1420
- 20 pieces @ $1183
- 50 pieces @ $1034

Last, he quoted 4140 Nitride where:
5 pieces @1490
20 pieces @1254
50 pieces @1105

These can be done as soon as there is an order placed of at least 5 pieces
minimum. We would ask for 50% up front.

I stated that I would need to run a prototype in a gearbox on the road to
prove out the product before accepting orders.
Please note that this would be a duplicate of the later laygear, as applied
from gearbox 5146, being part number 1B 3693, laygear c/w bushes.

He's now looking into doing the corresponding 2nd gear assembly (3rd gear
internally)

Interested? Discussion please.

Rich Chrysler

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Sat Jul  4 20:15:28 2009
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 22:15:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
Message-ID: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Hello All,

The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available 
exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."

Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just for 
the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good 
reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
Healey Motor Co. ?

Thanks,
Jim

From williamsantiks at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  4 22:05:20 2009
From: williamsantiks at hotmail.com (William Berg)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:05:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <1023990020.307481246732243911.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <387179393.307441246732227539.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1023990020.307481246732243911.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W43C5D8F6671086D35CDB96CD2A0@phx.gbl>

Dudes,
I bought a roll of that ceramic fiber matte that is super thin and easy to
cut, you should use a dust mask when working with it but I glued it to the
underside of my footwell panels, amarcord and jute in my '54 BN1. It is made
to withstand 2600 degrees of radiant heat, what more can you ask for, My Ice
Blue baby, runs super cool on my feet even on hot days with longer runs. I
will have to re-look up the name of the company that I bought it from. One
roll was more than adequate. There was a thread on this ceramic fiber matte a
couple of years ago. -William '54 BN1



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul  5 03:12:25 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 11:12:25 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>

Hmm,
Not so sure about this. The temperature is regulated by the thermostat, 
more or less. If more heat is developped it will open further to allow 
more cooling to drop the temperature to the set level.
The reading also depends on where the sensor is placed. In the cilinder 
head, intake manifold, thermostat housing, top of radiator etc.
Changing over the thermostats may cast some light here? Just to see what 
happens.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Jerry -  a new build will run hotter until the rings bed in.  It'll
> take probably about 500 miles to seat and then cool down.
>
>
>
> On 7/4/09, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
>   
>> Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!
>>
>> I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a BJ8.  The
>> engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the carbs are
>> set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call normal, about
>> 190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer around
>> here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is running at
>> least
>> 10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
>> thermostat.
>>
>> I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is restricting water
>> flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to dissipate.
>>
>> Any theories out there?
>>
>> Jerry
>> BN4
>> BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 03:38:04 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Healey List)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:38:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <FFB6C301-54C7-4D0E-849D-E016A60B4524@gmail.com>

I have a thermostat, a recored larger core radiator, and had my block  
& head cleaned by the redistrip process.
Temp never goes over 185, on the hottest day, on the track. Only goes  
over when you turn off.
If it does go over the thermostat rating, it's either the thermostat,  
or a probl in the cooling system (blocked head/ block galleries or rad  
core
And I don't have anything under the carpet - wrap your manifolds or  
ceramic coat them
Chris
Sydney Austrslia
wwwyaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 05/07/2009, at 7:12 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Hmm,
> Not so sure about this. The temperature is regulated by the  
> thermostat, more or less. If more heat is developped it will open  
> further to allow more cooling to drop the temperature to the set  
> level.
> The reading also depends on where the sensor is placed. In the  
> cilinder head, intake manifold, thermostat housing, top of radiator  
> etc.
> Changing over the thermostats may cast some light here? Just to see  
> what happens.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Alan Seigrist schreef:
>> Jerry -  a new build will run hotter until the rings bed in.  It'll
>> take probably about 500 miles to seat and then cool down.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/4/09, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Happy 4th of July for those of you in the states!
>>>
>>> I have two healeys, one has a early 3000 engine and the other is a  
>>> BJ8.  The
>>> engines are very similar, the timing has been checked on both, the  
>>> carbs are
>>> set.  The temperature in the early 3000 runs what I would call  
>>> normal, about
>>> 190- or up to a max of 210 on a hot day like we have in the summer  
>>> around
>>> here.  The BJ8 is a new engine, less than 100 miles but it is  
>>> running at
>>> least
>>> 10 degrees hotter and the only difference I can come up with is the
>>> thermostat.
>>>
>>> I bought a shielded thermostat and I am wondering if it is  
>>> restricting water
>>> flow such that the heat is not getting back to the radiator to  
>>> dissipate.
>>>
>>> Any theories out there?
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>> BN4

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun Jul  5 04:20:31 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 11:20:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <NTvr8cBv5HUKFwjy@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Jim

I don't know about later cars but on the 100 it was simply the original, 
chrome plated. I had an original on my BN1 but have recently had to have 
it re-chomed because it was peeling. The special hollow fixing nut heads 
are also chromed.

To the best of my knowledge the cast ribbed cover that many fit to their 
cars was not supplied by the Donald Healey Motor Company.

Regards



>
>The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
>exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>
>Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just for
>the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
>original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
>reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
>Healey Motor Co. ?
>
-- 
John Harper

From grday at btinternet.com  Sun Jul  5 06:54:34 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 13:54:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>

Kees,
I fully agree with your comments but suggest it is probable (although not a 
certainty - it could be poor engine timing) that in this case it is the 
friction in a newly rebuilt engine.  When that goes so the temperature 
should drop to similar levels to the other engine.
Relating this to your explanation - I am suggesting the overload is the 
additional friction from the newly rebuilt engine, when that goes so will 
the higher than wanted temperature.
Time (and engine use) will tell.

Guy R Day
OL11


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "GUY DAY" <grday at btinternet.com>
Cc: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion


 Guy,
 "A thermostat cannot control heat beyond it's maximum opening
temperature" is absolutely true. Problem is idealy the coolant should
never get that hot, certainly not when running in, as it is a sign of
overload..
 I have always used thermostats with a high as possible opening
temperature in any car. This increases the operating temperature and
efficiency of the engine. It also increases the temperature reading, but
in my experience this reading will remain constant at all times (new
engine, old engine, rebuild engine), unless overloaded (mountains, very
fast German autobahn driving) when the temperature will creep up and
slowing down is needed.
 (all assuming that the engine and cooling system are in good nick).
 Kees Oudesluijs
 NL

From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 07:12:34 2009
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 09:12:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
In-Reply-To: <902863.81558.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <902863.81558.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT104-W50CBB8D733F51642676638E62A0@phx.gbl>

To the best of my knowledge there was no complete video of Conclave Kingston.
We tried to arrange this with two different people but they both demanded a
minimum $1500 retainer. We did not feel we could guarantee the numbers
required to commit to this expense.

Frederique Constant, our major sponsor, commissioned a video of the Thursday
awards banquet. When completed this will be available to all Conclave
registrants. If you were not at Conclave and would like a copy please let me
know.



We had a number of photographers at Kingston taking photos every day and
compiling them in one location. Last I heard this had been reduced to around
1000 images. These will be posted to the www.conclave09.com web site when they
are ready. Again, we will advise Conclave registrants of this.



Hope this helps


Laurie Wilford

Conclave 2009


> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 04:03:23 -0700
> From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] conclave
>
> anyone doing a video or are there any videos out there
> _______________________________________________


_________________________________________________________________
Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666046

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Jul  5 07:29:56 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 09:29:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
Message-ID: <000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>

Although many good suggestions have been made it has been my experience that
it is the system's ability to dissipate heat, rather than variations in the
amount of heat generated that is the usual cause of overheating problems (
ignition timing and leaking gaskets excluded of course)
I would suggest that the air deflectors around the radiator be carefully
checked to ensure that no air is coming back past them and into the front of
the radiator.
Failing that I would recommend swapping the radiators between the 2 cars to
see if the problem moves with the radiator.
Diagnosis is 90% of the cure.
That will be 2 cents please.

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of GUY DAY
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 8:55 AM
To: Oudesluys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion

Kees,
I fully agree with your comments but suggest it is probable (although not a 
certainty - it could be poor engine timing) that in this case it is the 
friction in a newly rebuilt engine.  When that goes so the temperature 
should drop to similar levels to the other engine.
Relating this to your explanation - I am suggesting the overload is the 
additional friction from the newly rebuilt engine, when that goes so will 
the higher than wanted temperature.
Time (and engine use) will tell.

Guy R Day
OL11


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "GUY DAY" <grday at btinternet.com>
Cc: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion


 Guy,
 "A thermostat cannot control heat beyond it's maximum opening
temperature" is absolutely true. Problem is idealy the coolant should
never get that hot, certainly not when running in, as it is a sign of
overload..
 I have always used thermostats with a high as possible opening
temperature in any car. This increases the operating temperature and
efficiency of the engine. It also increases the temperature reading, but
in my experience this reading will remain constant at all times (new
engine, old engine, rebuild engine), unless overloaded (mountains, very
fast German autobahn driving) when the temperature will creep up and
slowing down is needed.
 (all assuming that the engine and cooling system are in good nick).
 Kees Oudesluijs
 NL

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 08:19:44 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 07:19:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
Message-ID: <4A50B680.3010904@comcast.net>

re:
"the system's ability to dissipate heat, rather than variations in the
amount of heat generated that is the usual cause of overheating problems"


I don't have Michael's experience or smarts, but from what I have seen most Big 
Healeys' ability to dissipate heat is marginal at best.  Wouldn't the extra heat 
produced by ring bed-in tax the cooling system even more?

As an aside, I once broke in an airplane engine that had a multiple port 
cylinder head temp (CHT) gauge.  The cylinder heads ran quite a bit hotter 
(50-100deg C, IIRC) for an hour or so during the initial run-in (critical in an 
aircraft engine).  The tolerances for an A/C engine are typically greater 
(bigger numbers) than an auto's, and the cylinder cross-hatching is quite a bit 
rougher, but I would expect a Healey engine to run at least a bit hotter for a 
few hours (depending on the machining, ring type, etc.).


Bob



Michael Salter wrote:
> Although many good suggestions have been made it has been my experience that
> it is the system's ability to dissipate heat, rather than variations in the
> amount of heat generated that is the usual cause of overheating problems (
> ignition timing and leaking gaskets excluded of course)
> I would suggest that the air deflectors around the radiator be carefully
> checked to ensure that no air is coming back past them and into the front of
> the radiator.
> Failing that I would recommend swapping the radiators between the 2 cars to
> see if the problem moves with the radiator.
> Diagnosis is 90% of the cure.
> That will be 2 cents please.
> 
> Michael Salter
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445


*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sun Jul  5 09:00:31 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 08:00:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
Message-ID: <005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Many good suggestions:

1. Wait for the new engine to bed in.
2.  Test or Replace the thermostat-  Cheap test and
      Could find the problem.
3.  Swap the radiator to see if there is a problem there.
    Not a quick job and the radiator was rodded by the shop.  For the price 
is should be clean.
4.  Check the baffles to make sure the air is getting through the radiator.
    Some additions here.  I have added the surround shroud to the fan area, 
so all force from the fan should pull though the radiator.  I also added a 
bottom baffle from the bottom of the grill opening to the bottom of the 
radiator.  This keeps the air from going under the car once it enters the 
front grill.
    I will also look at the stock baffles between the grill and the radiator 
to see there could be more directional flow for the air.

Excellent ideas from all.  Thank you for your time.

Now, out of fix some electrical gremlins.  My speedometer is stuck on 14 
MPH.  And I have a switch high up on the center console that is causing 
problems.  I think I will need my wifes hands for that one.

Jerry
BJ8 

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 09:50:27 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 09:50:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN-1 3 Speed Laygear
Message-ID: <7E7DDD43F752412981D7B8B47AC9330F@jackniolfz37if>

   Rich,
Sounds very interesting!   What would be the expected lead time to delivery of
the finished product  including some time to get a few miles of testing done
inside a gearbox  on the road?
Jack

From g.rude at worldnet.att.net  Sun Jul  5 10:18:07 2009
From: g.rude at worldnet.att.net (Gerald Rude)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 09:18:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need Fender Portion
References: <009401c9fcab$02bd5720$e3cd480c@DJN9Q661>
	<751d05480907040748x7a765e30xffcd767e2385d692@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004701c9fd8e$693564a0$24cf480c@DJN9Q661>

Sorry, thanks for the note.  Its for a BJ8, but I understand anything from a
BN4 on will work?  Jerry
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Curt/Nancy Arndt
  To: Gerald Rude
  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 7:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need Fender Portion


  What model of Healey?


  On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 6:26 AM, Gerald Rude <g.rude at worldnet.att.net>
wrote:

    Hi all,

    I pulled out the left front fender from storage the other day, intending
on
    repairing the lower, rusted section with a new patch panel and discovered
the
    front of the fender was really mangled by the PO.  So I was wondering if
any
    one out there may have a piece of a fender laying around which they may
want
    to part with.

    I need from the center of the wheel well forward, basically the head
light
    area.  Any help much appreciated.

    Jerry Rude
    Prather California
    _______________________________________________
    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Healeys at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

    You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com

    http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jul  5 11:19:02 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 13:19:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <000d01c9fd94$b14472d0$13cd5870$@rr.com>

"The temperature is regulated by the thermostat, more or less."
[TRUE, as long as coolant temperature is below the rated temperature of the
thermostat]

"If more heat is developed it will open further to allow 
more cooling..."
[TRUE, as long as the thermostat is not already open to the max.]

"...to drop the temperature to the set level."
[NOT EXACTLY.  The function of the automotive thermostat is not to maintain
the coolant temperature at a "set" point (as in a house), but only to
restrict the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine warms up to
operating temperature.  The automotive thermostat is a completely passive
device, responding to coolant temperature but not controlling it (except as
it restricts coolant flow during warmup).  At its rated temperature, the
thermostat begins to open in response to increasing coolant temperature, and
will continue to do so until it is wide open.  At that point, it has no
further ability to do anything to restrict coolant flow.  
It's a common misconception that installing a "lower temperature" thermostat
will help to cool the engine.  

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
----------------------

Hmm,
Not so sure about this. The temperature is regulated by the thermostat, more
or less. If more heat is developped it will open further to allow more
cooling to drop the temperature to the set level.
The reading also depends on where the sensor is placed. In the cilinder
head, intake manifold, thermostat housing, top of radiator etc.
Changing over the thermostats may cast some light here? Just to see what
happens.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul  5 12:10:30 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 20:10:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>

Rodding/cleaning a radiator is rather useless. For a bit more you have a 
new core installed and it is very hard or even impossible to remove 
scale from a core properly and so far I have had very little luck. These 
days I go for a new core or radiator.

Indeed it is vital that all air should pass through the radiator, so 
blocking up all openings around the radiator shell is called for. Very 
often the top is forgotten
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> Many good suggestions:
>
> 1. Wait for the new engine to bed in.
> 2.  Test or Replace the thermostat-  Cheap test and
>      Could find the problem.
> 3.  Swap the radiator to see if there is a problem there.
>    Not a quick job and the radiator was rodded by the shop.  For the 
> price is should be clean.
> 4.  Check the baffles to make sure the air is getting through the 
> radiator.
>    Some additions here.  I have added the surround shroud to the fan 
> area, so all force from the fan should pull though the radiator.  I 
> also added a bottom baffle from the bottom of the grill opening to the 
> bottom of the radiator.  This keeps the air from going under the car 
> once it enters the front grill.
>    I will also look at the stock baffles between the grill and the 
> radiator to see there could be more directional flow for the air.
>
> Excellent ideas from all.  Thank you for your time.
>
> Now, out of fix some electrical gremlins.  My speedometer is stuck on 
> 14 MPH.  And I have a switch high up on the center console that is 
> causing problems.  I think I will need my wifes hands for that one.
>
> Jerry
> BJ8 _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09 05:53:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul  5 12:20:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 20:20:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <000d01c9fd94$b14472d0$13cd5870$@rr.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl> <000d01c9fd94$b14472d0$13cd5870$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A50EF07.7040400@chello.nl>

The thermostat is used to maintain a minimum coolant temperature. This 
is neccesary as the cooling capacity of the radiator is generaly way 
higher that the heat production in an engine (in a proper working car). 
As the radiator will cool down to much, the thermostat will restrict 
flow so that the coolant in the engine can raise to the desired 
operating temperature again.
It is not at all passive once the engine has warmed up, it controls the 
engine's operating temperature. Without it the engine would run to cool.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

> "The temperature is regulated by the thermostat, more or less."
> [TRUE, as long as coolant temperature is below the rated temperature of the
> thermostat]
>
> "If more heat is developed it will open further to allow 
> more cooling..."
> [TRUE, as long as the thermostat is not already open to the max.]
>
> "...to drop the temperature to the set level."
> [NOT EXACTLY.  The function of the automotive thermostat is not to maintain
> the coolant temperature at a "set" point (as in a house), but only to
> restrict the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine warms up to
> operating temperature.  The automotive thermostat is a completely passive
> device, responding to coolant temperature but not controlling it (except as
> it restricts coolant flow during warmup).  At its rated temperature, the
> thermostat begins to open in response to increasing coolant temperature, and
> will continue to do so until it is wide open.  At that point, it has no
> further ability to do anything to restrict coolant flow.  
> It's a common misconception that installing a "lower temperature" thermostat
> will help to cool the engine.  
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> ----------------------
>
> Hmm,
> Not so sure about this. The temperature is regulated by the thermostat, more
> or less. If more heat is developped it will open further to allow more
> cooling to drop the temperature to the set level.
> The reading also depends on where the sensor is placed. In the cilinder
> head, intake manifold, thermostat housing, top of radiator etc.
> Changing over the thermostats may cast some light here? Just to see what
> happens.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09 05:53:00

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Sun Jul  5 12:51:39 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 20:51:39 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13178.1246800621.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1E70BDDC1C7D486C9B29A752A62C67E2@tm>

Maybe just once I can be of help here :-)

There was some discussion on the Jaguar forum about various insulations.
Some of the conclusions are here:
http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=181
http://tinyurl.com/pwlr4h 
and
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/jaguar_update_16_main.html
http://tinyurl.com/qhzmet

They seem to favor Koolmat...

Best, Tadek

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 13:00:33 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 12:00:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
Message-ID: <305731.6684.qm@web111416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Jim / John
   The finned alloy covers were an after market item never available from the
factory.  I believe they were a U.S. made item and sold thru accessories
suppliers such as MG Mitten or Hahn something??  I make a similar finned valve
cover for both the four and six and have replacement parts. ( knobs & logo
plates ) Have a look at my web page.  <healeyray.com>
Regards
Ray Juncal
--- On Sun, 7/5/09, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:




Jim

I don't know about later cars but on the 100 it was simply the original,
chrome plated. I had an original on my BN1 but have recently had to have
it re-chomed because it was peeling. The special hollow fixing nut heads
are also chromed.

To the best of my knowledge the cast ribbed cover that many fit to their
cars was not supplied by the Donald Healey Motor Company.

Regards



>
>The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
>exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>
>Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just for
>the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
>original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
>reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
>Healey Motor Co. ?
>
--
John Harper

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Jul  5 13:55:49 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 12:55:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <610C4966-971B-4E8D-A48B-7D5D8DF4F66C@cox.net>

As far as  know, the original six cylinder alloy cover looks similiar  
to the one fitted to my car, but looked a little narrower on top.

Here's my modern repro:
http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/engine.htm

Wilko
San Diego

On Jul 4, 2009, at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>
> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or  
> just for
> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
> Healey Motor Co. ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 14:00:54 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 13:00:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Drums
Message-ID: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>

I am installing new brake shoes on the rear of my BJ7. I haved the adjusters
all the way in and still can't get the drums to slide on. Any ideas on what
I'm doing wrong??



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 14:15:12 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 13:15:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Drums
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A5109D0.9040301@comcast.net>

Dan,


Just went through this on our BN2.  Couple things:

1) by "the adjusters all the way in" you mean the wedges are all the way in, or 
the adjuster screw?  The screw should be out/wedges in (dumb question, I know, 
but had to ask).

2) the drums will be hard to replace if the shoes aren't properly set into the 
wheel cylinders and pedestals and exactly centered, and the standoffs have to be 
adjusted so the shoe surfaces are 90deg to the backing plate.

Make sure the cylinders "float" properly.

Bob


Dan wrote:
> I am installing new brake shoes on the rear of my BJ7. I haved the adjusters
> all the way in and still can't get the drums to slide on. Any ideas on what
> I'm doing wrong??
> 
> 
> 
> Dan Serrao
> 
> 1963 BJ7

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 02:09:12 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 00:09:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Drums
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B20A2237-44AA-4646-AA06-AA436CEE817E@gmail.com>

Try having them arced to true the curve

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Jul 5, 2009, at 12:00 PM, Dan <jobu53 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I am installing new brake shoes on the rear of my BJ7. I haved the
> adjusters
> all the way in and still can't get the drums to slide on. Any ideas
> on what
> I'm doing wrong??
>
>
>
> Dan Serrao
>
> 1963 BJ7
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
>
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
> _Storage_062009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 16:12:15 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 15:12:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
Message-ID: <794407.78956.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

On my 29Dthe height from the lowest part of the oil pan to the top of the T
was more like 29", everything else matches Rich's dimensions.  Perhaps Rich
was measuring height in Canadian inches and I was measuring in American
inches?

Rick

--- On Sat, 7/4/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
To: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>, "healeylist"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 11:48 AM

Lin,

A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were heading to
Conclave!

- height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover 27"
- length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
- length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
- Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 4:05 AM
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements


> Hi folks
> I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I  would try
one more time before I give up. Thanks!
>
>
> Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual  components
attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  "blueprint" you can refer
me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  for things like height from bottom
of oil pan at lowest point to the  top of the rocker cover (or the vent "T"
pipe on the cover), depth  from fan center to engine backplate, depth from fan
center to end of  the gearbox, width of the block and width from the air
cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of the assembly).
>
> Thanks for sharing if someone has this information.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 16:23:17 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 15:23:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Project BN1 3 speed Laygear
In-Reply-To: <3526D8296361418C905265AB222D78A7@LIFEBOOK>
References: <3526D8296361418C905265AB222D78A7@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <751d05480907051523p94223aer4a791922b6d6dd3c@mail.gmail.com>

Rich,

I might be interested since I have two later gearboxes and one early gearbox
that I'd like to convert if all of the pieces become available.

Curt

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 9:06 PM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have been working with a brilliant machinist who is into CNC machining,
> CAD
> programming, and specializes in gear cutting.
> He's looking for challenges in his business and asked me what's needed. I
> handed him a later BN1 laygear with a shattered 2nd gear (3rd gear
> internally), explaining that this seems to be their weakness and if I had
> good
> laygears and 2nd gears, I could reassemble a number of BN1 gearboxes and
> put
> them back into service.
> He happily took this as a personal challenge and has come back to me 4
> weeks
> later with quotes and a metallurgy report on the original.
> It seems that the original is very hard, too hard in his opinion, with a
> Rockwell reading of 64 to 66 which is likely why when they let go, they
> simply
> shatter like glass, taking the other gear with it.
> Anyway, making the complete laygear new is no problem. Machining and
> installing the bronze inserts in each end would be included as part of the
> process.
> Of course as with anything, the more pieces made, the cheaper it will be.
> I am no machinist, but I'll quote what he has said. He gave me 3 prices for
> different hardness qualities.
>
> All case hardening to be approx. .020" deep as per original.
>
> He recommends 9310 case hardened where:
> -  5 pieces @  $1576
> -  20 pieces @ $1335
> -  50 pieces @ $1120
>
> Next he quoted 8620 case hardened where:
> - 5 pieces @ $1420
> - 20 pieces @ $1183
> - 50 pieces @ $1034
>
> Last, he quoted 4140 Nitride where:
> 5 pieces @1490
> 20 pieces @1254
> 50 pieces @1105
>
> These can be done as soon as there is an order placed of at least 5 pieces
> minimum. We would ask for 50% up front.
>
> I stated that I would need to run a prototype in a gearbox on the road to
> prove out the product before accepting orders.
> Please note that this would be a duplicate of the later laygear, as applied
> from gearbox 5146, being part number 1B 3693, laygear c/w bushes.
>
> He's now looking into doing the corresponding 2nd gear assembly (3rd gear
> internally)
>
> Interested? Discussion please.
>
> Rich Chrysler
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sun Jul  5 16:35:47 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 18:35:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
In-Reply-To: <794407.78956.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <794407.78956.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <23580BBD-666A-4ACC-82BE-021562D1D902@mac.com>

Thanks, Rick. I appreciate the assistance!

Lin Rose

On Jul 5, 2009, at 6:12 PM, HealeyRick wrote:

> On my 29Dthe height from the lowest part of the oil pan to the top  
> of the T was more like 29", everything else matches Rich's  
> dimensions.  Perhaps Rich was measuring height in Canadian inches  
> and I was measuring in American inches?
>
> Rick
>
> --- On Sat, 7/4/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
>
> From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
> To: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>, "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net 
> >
> Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 11:48 AM
>
> Lin,
>
> A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were  
> heading to Conclave!
>
> - height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover 27"
> - length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
> - length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
> - Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com 
> >
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 4:05 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
>
>
> > Hi folks
> > I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I   
> would try one more time before I give up. Thanks!
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual   
> components attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame   
> "blueprint" you can refer me to, I would appreciate it. I am  
> looking  for things like height from bottom of oil pan at lowest  
> point to the  top of the rocker cover (or the vent "T" pipe on the  
> cover), depth  from fan center to engine backplate, depth from fan  
> center to end of  the gearbox, width of the block and width from the  
> air cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of the assembly).
> >
> > Thanks for sharing if someone has this information.
> >
> > Lin
> > 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> > 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 16:57:45 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 15:57:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
Message-ID: <256275.64809.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

My apologies, Rich.  I meant U.S. inches, not American inches!

--- On Sun, 7/5/09, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
To: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>, "healeylist"
<healeys at autox.team.net>, "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Sunday, July 5, 2009, 6:12 PM

On my 29Dthe height from the lowest part of the oil pan to the top of the T
was more like 29", everything else matches Rich's dimensions.  Perhaps Rich
was measuring height in Canadian inches and I was measuring in American
inches?

Rick

--- On Sat, 7/4/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements
To: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>, "healeylist"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 11:48 AM

Lin,

A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were heading to
Conclave!

- height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover 27"
- length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
- length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
- Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 4:05 AM
Subject: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements


> Hi folks
> I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I  would
try
one more time before I give up. Thanks!
>
>
> Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual  components
attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  "blueprint" you can
refer
me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  for things like height from
bottom
of oil pan at lowest point to the  top of the rocker cover (or the vent "T"
pipe on the cover), depth  from fan center to engine backplate, depth from
fan
center to end of  the gearbox, width of the block and width from the air
cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of the assembly).
>
> Thanks for sharing if someone has this information.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 17:03:21 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 07:03:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>

Kees -

I live in the hottest climate of anyone here.

If you are lucky enough to still have a factory radiator core (many
BN1s and BN2s will have em), rodding will do wonders to improve
cooling.  The trick is you have to also power flush the block and use
a thermostat with a wide diameter opening.

Alan

On 7/6/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> Rodding/cleaning a radiator is rather useless. For a bit more you have a
> new core installed and it is very hard or even impossible to remove
> scale from a core properly and so far I have had very little luck. These
> days I go for a new core or radiator.
>
> Indeed it is vital that all air should pass through the radiator, so
> blocking up all openings around the radiator shell is called for. Very
> often the top is forgotten
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Jerry Costanzo schreef:
>> Many good suggestions:
>>
>> 1. Wait for the new engine to bed in.
>> 2.  Test or Replace the thermostat-  Cheap test and
>>      Could find the problem.
>> 3.  Swap the radiator to see if there is a problem there.
>>    Not a quick job and the radiator was rodded by the shop.  For the
>> price is should be clean.
>> 4.  Check the baffles to make sure the air is getting through the
>> radiator.
>>    Some additions here.  I have added the surround shroud to the fan
>> area, so all force from the fan should pull though the radiator.  I
>> also added a bottom baffle from the bottom of the grill opening to the
>> bottom of the radiator.  This keeps the air from going under the car
>> once it enters the front grill.
>>    I will also look at the stock baffles between the grill and the
>> radiator to see there could be more directional flow for the air.
>>
>> Excellent ideas from all.  Thank you for your time.
>>
>> Now, out of fix some electrical gremlins.  My speedometer is stuck on
>> 14 MPH.  And I have a switch high up on the center console that is
>> causing problems.  I think I will need my wifes hands for that one.
>>
>> Jerry
>> BJ8 _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09
>> 05:53:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Jul  5 17:19:49 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:19:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Drums
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W7F3A7FEC770A67D45BEA6DB2A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002201c9fdc7$189ecf70$49dc6e50$@com>

Dan the most likely cause is that the lining material on the shoes is too
thick. I used to have a brake shoe grinder and almost always had to remove a
little from new shoes to get them in.
It is important to ensure that the radius of the new shoes (curvature) is
exactly the same as the drum as well!!

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 4:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Drums

I am installing new brake shoes on the rear of my BJ7. I haved the adjusters
all the way in and still can't get the drums to slide on. Any ideas on what
I'm doing wrong??



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Sun Jul  5 17:30:06 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 09:30:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61AA@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day

I agree with Alan, as in warmer climates it's imperative to ensure that there
is maximum flow of coolant. If a number of radiator tubes are blocked it cuts
the effectiveness.

I have had considerable success with having radiators rodded, except that it's
a pain in the bum to remove the radiator from my car as it has to come out via
the grille opening.

Are we not forgetting the original problem? Isn't it a freshly rebuilt car
with just 100 miles on the clock? Surely the radiator won't need attention or
am I missing something?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, 6 July 2009 9:03 AM
To: Oudesluys; Jerry Costanzo; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion

Kees -

I live in the hottest climate of anyone here.

If you are lucky enough to still have a factory radiator core (many
BN1s and BN2s will have em), rodding will do wonders to improve
cooling.  The trick is you have to also power flush the block and use
a thermostat with a wide diameter opening.

Alan

On 7/6/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> Rodding/cleaning a radiator is rather useless. For a bit more you have a
> new core installed and it is very hard or even impossible to remove
> scale from a core properly and so far I have had very little luck. These
> days I go for a new core or radiator.
>
> Indeed it is vital that all air should pass through the radiator, so
> blocking up all openings around the radiator shell is called for. Very
> often the top is forgotten
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Jerry Costanzo schreef:
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul  5 21:15:51 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 20:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  healey motor/gearbox measurements
Message-ID: <2AD3B2DA12804C77B55EDA9BF8A88881@LIFEBOOK>

Rick, et al,

I thought I was losing my mind so I just went out and checked the heights on a
26D series and a 29K series and used a straight edge across the bottom of the
pan on each engine (both engines are sitting in stands) and measured to the
top of the T breather pipe. Both measured within 3/16" of 27" total height.
Variation was due to one of them having the T pipe screwed in a bit further
than the other.
And that's measurements taken using the Queen's Imperial measuring system.

Rich
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: HealeyRick
  To: Linwood H Rose ; healeylist ; Rich C
  Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements


        On my 29Dthe height from the lowest part of the oil pan to the top of
the T was more like 29", everything else matches Rich's dimensions.  Perhaps
Rich was measuring height in Canadian inches and I was measuring in American
inches?

        Rick


          Lin,

          A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were
heading to Conclave!

          - height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover
27"
          - length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
          - length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
          - Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".

          Rich Chrysler

          ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose"


          > Hi folks
          > I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I
would try one more time before I give up. Thanks!
          >
          >
          > Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual
components attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  "blueprint"
you can refer me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  for things like
height from bottom of oil pan at lowest point to the  top of the rocker cover
(or the vent "T" pipe on the cover), depth  from fan center to engine
backplate, depth from fan center to end of  the gearbox, width of the block
and width from the air cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of the
assembly)

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 18:32:10 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 17:32:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  healey motor/gearbox measurements
Message-ID: <775535.52159.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Rich, I just measured again and still came up with 29"  Are you measuring from
the very bottom of the sump or from the sump directly under the "T".  Maybe I
have one of the rare "deep sump" pans from the Cape?

Regards,
Rick

--- On Sun, 7/5/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  healey motor/gearbox measurements
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, July 5, 2009, 11:15 PM

Rick, et al,

I thought I was losing my mind so I just went out and checked the heights on
a
26D series and a 29K series and used a straight edge across the bottom of the
pan on each engine (both engines are sitting in stands) and measured to the
top of the T breather pipe. Both measured within 3/16" of 27" total height.
Variation was due to one of them having the T pipe screwed in a bit further
than the other.
And that's measurements taken using the Queen's Imperial measuring system.

Rich
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: HealeyRick
  To: Linwood H Rose ; healeylist ; Rich C
  Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey motor/gearbox measurements


        On my 29Dthe height from the lowest part of the oil pan to the top of
the T was more like 29", everything else matches Rich's dimensions.  Perhaps
Rich was measuring height in Canadian inches and I was measuring in American
inches?

        Rick


          Lin,

          A couple of weeks ago a good portion of the list members were
heading to Conclave!

          - height from bottom of oil pan to top of T pipe on rocker cover
27"
          - length from fan centre to engine back plate 33 1/2"
          - length from fan centre to end of propshaft on gearbox/od 64"
          - Width from distributor across to air cleaners approx. 25".

          Rich Chrysler

          ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linwood H Rose"


          > Hi folks
          > I posted this a couple of weeks ago without a response. Thought I
would try one more time before I give up. Thanks!
          >
          >
          > Does anyone have linear measurements for the engine with usual
components attached? Or, if there is a document like the frame  "blueprint"
you can refer me to, I would appreciate it. I am looking  for things like
height from bottom of oil pan at lowest point to the  top of the rocker cover
(or the vent "T" pipe on the cover), depth  from fan center to engine
backplate, depth from fan center to end of  the gearbox, width of the block
and width from the air cleaners to the  distributor (widest point of the
assembly)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Sun Jul  5 18:51:09 2009
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 20:51:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
References: <902863.81558.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<SNT104-W50CBB8D733F51642676638E62A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1768D4CB10344F339E99EAFA8E3B2CB8@mal71b83fb7a5c>

Hi Laurie,
Any idea who's Healey made the front page of the Toronto Star Wheels 
section; blue with an Ontario plate?

Mal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laurie Wilford" <healeymk3 at hotmail.com>
To: <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] conclave


> To the best of my knowledge there was no complete video of Conclave 
> Kingston.
> We tried to arrange this with two different people but they both demanded 
> a
> minimum $1500 retainer. We did not feel we could guarantee the numbers
> required to commit to this expense.
>
> Frederique Constant, our major sponsor, commissioned a video of the 
> Thursday
> awards banquet. When completed this will be available to all Conclave
> registrants. If you were not at Conclave and would like a copy please let 
> me
> know.
>
>
>
> We had a number of photographers at Kingston taking photos every day and
> compiling them in one location. Last I heard this had been reduced to 
> around
> 1000 images. These will be posted to the www.conclave09.com web site when 
> they
> are ready. Again, we will advise Conclave registrants of this.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
> Laurie Wilford
>
> Conclave 2009
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 04:03:23 -0700
>> From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com
>> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] conclave
>>
>> anyone doing a video or are there any videos out there
>> _______________________________________________
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666046
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09 
05:53:00

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 22:47:32 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 21:47:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange basis
along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned about
the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.

Curt

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>
> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just
> for
> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
> Healey Motor Co. ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Sun Jul  5 22:57:41 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:57:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
	<751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61B8@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day

Now that's a coincidence as I just happen to have next to me a short article
by John Wheatley that says that for the price of 4 Pounds and 2 Shillings you
could have fitted, on an exchange basis from the DHMC a chromium plated rocker
cover and air cleaners.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt
Sent: Monday, 6 July 2009 2:48 PM
To: Jim Lyons
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover

Jim,

The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange basis
along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned about
the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.

Curt

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>
> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just
> for
> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
> Healey Motor Co. ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sun Jul  5 23:07:39 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 01:07:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy-Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
Message-ID: <001201c9fdf7$af621540$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

My copy of the DHMC's sheet of "Extra Available Equipment and Modifications"
for the Austin Healey 3000 lists:

-Chrome Rocker Cover (Exchange)   2 15 0

And (shades of grandma's living room) :

-Seat Covers , Clear Plastic (pair)    5 10 0

Best,
Peter

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Jul  5 23:40:59 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 15:40:59 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
Message-ID: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>

G'day list

I'm now looking at getting the V6-engined BN1 wired. Doesn't look like being a
huge problem, but it may be difficult to get the Smiths fuel and temperature
gauges working with the existing sensors on the Holden motor. This is all a
mystery to me, but my auto electrician says it's down to the impedance range
(Ohms) - for example, the Holden sender works at 40 Ohms (full) 97 Ohms (half)
and 280 Ohms (empty) Does anyone know these figures for the Smiths fuel gauge,
and, if it works on the same principle, the temperature gauge? Or is there a
way of recalibrating the Smiths gauges?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
Bn1 Holden V6

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Jul  5 23:55:13 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 15:55:13 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Miss Marple
Message-ID: <A5A409F81FFE4099BC7930BF890D14AF@PeterPC>

Watched the Agatha Christie Miss Marple episode "why didn't they ask Evans?"
on Oz ABC TV last night. One of the main (female) protagonists Frankie Derwent
"prangs" her red 100/6 (I think)  as part of the plot. Car was dirtied up for
the part & they went as far as taking off a door (at least I hope they took it
off!)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Jul  6 01:09:08 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 08:09:08 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
	<751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <M+x7XPCUMaUKFwRG@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Curt

For what it is worth I would have thought that the chromed air cleaners 
and chromed rocker cover combination on a 100 was rare. The examples I 
have seen had the H6 carburettors and early cold air box when a chromed 
rocker cover were fitted. What do others think?

Regards

>
>The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange basis
>along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned about
>the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.
>
>Curt
>
>On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
>> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>>
>> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just
>> for
>> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
>> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
>> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
>> Healey Motor Co. ?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 
>07/05/09 05:53:00

-- 
John Harper

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul  6 02:23:59 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 10:23:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
In-Reply-To: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <4A51B49F.8020208@chello.nl>

I would not be surprised if the Holden unit is also manufactured by 
SMITHS. At least the resistance seems to be rather similar.
 From my mind the SMITHS figures are ca. 30-280 Ohm.
Kees Oudesluijs


Peter Linn schreef:
> G'day list
>
> I'm now looking at getting the V6-engined BN1 wired. Doesn't look like being a
> huge problem, but it may be difficult to get the Smiths fuel and temperature
> gauges working with the existing sensors on the Holden motor. This is all a
> mystery to me, but my auto electrician says it's down to the impedance range
> (Ohms) - for example, the Holden sender works at 40 Ohms (full) 97 Ohms (half)
> and 280 Ohms (empty) Does anyone know these figures for the Smiths fuel gauge,
> and, if it works on the same principle, the temperature gauge? Or is there a
> way of recalibrating the Smiths gauges?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> Bn1 Holden V6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 02:24:11 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:24:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>

Kees -

Many people use tap water to fill their radiators... this is what causes the
scaling.  Using distilled water, as you suggest, is the only way to go.
I've only ever rodded the radiator on a car I've purchased from someone
else.  Once done, it runs cool and never clogs up again using distilled
water.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> What beats me is that blocked radiators still happen and rodding or a new
> core is still neccesary. Appearantly many people still use water instead of
> a proper formulated coolant which will prevent scale largely. Once I
> installed a new core or radiator I never had to clean the cooling system
> anymore afterwards using a mix of destilled water and antifreeze/inhibitor
> or a ready to use good quality coolant.
> Also in my daily drivers I never had the problems, and most of them clock
> up well over 300.000 miles which is a lot in this country.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 02:51:42 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:51:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
In-Reply-To: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>

G'day Peter -

I know down under it is legal to grow certain weeds in your house if you
wish, and I was wondering if your auto electrician has been smoking some of
his home grown herb?

The BN1 temp guage is operated through the laws of thermodynamics, not
electricity.  There is an ether bulb which is connected to the guage by a 2
meter long copper tube which senses the pressure in the bulb based on the
water temperature in the radiator on the BN1.  Sounds like someone snipped
off the copper tube and you are wondering how to wire it up to an electric
sensor... well you can't!

Fear not my friend, there are many easy ways to work around this.  The main
thing is to figure out how you want to take the temp off the motor.  The
best way is to take it from the motor's water jacket on the head where it is
hottest, the alternative is to plug it into the original port on the
radiator, but that doesn't register overheating if your thermostat fails and
shuts closed.

If you go with an electrical version, you can fit up one from an MGB or
someithing similar:

http://holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0611&agName=Smiths+Classic+Gauge+Fittings&pCode=070.017

I suspect the easiest thing will be for you to have the guage rebuilt by a
proper Smiths guage specialist with the ether sensing tube, and then you can
just screw that into the top of the radiatior like the original was designed
to do.  This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
your original guage without futzing around:

http://holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0607&agName=Smiths+Classic+52mm+Full+Scale&pCode=070.018

Cheers,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 1:40 PM, Peter Linn <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> G'day list
>
> I'm now looking at getting the V6-engined BN1 wired. Doesn't look like
> being a
> huge problem, but it may be difficult to get the Smiths fuel and
> temperature
> gauges working with the existing sensors on the Holden motor. This is all a
> mystery to me, but my auto electrician says it's down to the impedance
> range
> (Ohms) - for example, the Holden sender works at 40 Ohms (full) 97 Ohms
> (half)
> and 280 Ohms (empty) Does anyone know these figures for the Smiths fuel
> gauge,
> and, if it works on the same principle, the temperature gauge? Or is there
> a
> way of recalibrating the Smiths gauges?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> Bn1 Holden V6

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul  6 02:54:58 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 10:54:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>	
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>	
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>	
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>	
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>	
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>	
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>	
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>	
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>	
	<4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A51BBE2.3040201@chello.nl>

Alan,
At least use an inhibitor, especialy if you have a mix of different 
metals in you cooling system and you practically always have a mix of 
aluminium/cast iron on the engine (waterpump, thermostat housing or 
sometimes an aluminium cil. head), sometimes even a copper head gasket 
and lead/tin/brass/steel on the radiator.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Kees -
>
> Many people use tap water to fill their radiators... this is what 
> causes the scaling.  Using distilled water, as you suggest, is the 
> only way to go.  I've only ever rodded the radiator on a car I've 
> purchased from someone else.  Once done, it runs cool and never clogs 
> up again using distilled water.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     What beats me is that blocked radiators still happen and rodding
>     or a new core is still neccesary. Appearantly many people still
>     use water instead of a proper formulated coolant which will
>     prevent scale largely. Once I installed a new core or radiator I
>     never had to clean the cooling system anymore afterwards using a
>     mix of destilled water and antifreeze/inhibitor or a ready to use
>     good quality coolant.
>     Also in my daily drivers I never had the problems, and most of
>     them clock up well over 300.000 miles which is a lot in this country.
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2220 - Release Date: 07/05/09 17:54:00

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 03:01:00 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 17:01:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A51BBE2.3040201@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51BBE2.3040201@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907060201m70c2c6bdh852bbfc6759af2e8@mail.gmail.com>

yes of course.  I use very high quality coolant, usually at about 20%
coolant to water mixture, and replace the mixture once a year.  In
California where it isn't so hot, I just use 50/50 mix and keep it in the
car at least two to three years.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 4:54 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Alan,
> At least use an inhibitor, especialy if you have a mix of different metals
> in you cooling system and you practically always have a mix of
> aluminium/cast iron on the engine (waterpump, thermostat housing or
> sometimes an aluminium cil. head), sometimes even a copper head gasket and
> lead/tin/brass/steel on the radiator.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
>
> Alan Seigrist schreef:
>
>> Kees -
>>
>> Many people use tap water to fill their radiators... this is what causes
>> the scaling.  Using distilled water, as you suggest, is the only way to go.
>>  I've only ever rodded the radiator on a car I've purchased from someone
>> else.  Once done, it runs cool and never clogs up again using distilled
>> water.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:
>> coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>>
>>    What beats me is that blocked radiators still happen and rodding
>>    or a new core is still neccesary. Appearantly many people still
>>    use water instead of a proper formulated coolant which will
>>    prevent scale largely. Once I installed a new core or radiator I
>>    never had to clean the cooling system anymore afterwards using a
>>    mix of destilled water and antifreeze/inhibitor or a ready to use
>>    good quality coolant.
>>    Also in my daily drivers I never had the problems, and most of
>>    them clock up well over 300.000 miles which is a lot in this country.
>>
>>    Kees Oudesluijs
>>    NL
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database:
>> 270.13.5/2220 - Release Date: 07/05/09 17:54:00

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jul  6 04:25:48 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 06:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
In-Reply-To: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <4A51D12C.3090205@earthlink.net>

Peter,

The Smiths fuel sending unit is just a variable resistor - for the six 
cylinder Healey is 0 (empty) to 90-100 ohms (full).  The temperature 
sensor is not the same - the bulb and the capillary tube are filled with 
ether that expands with increasing temperature.  I assume that there's a 
Bourdon tube in the gauge which deflects causing the needle to swing.

I'm a bit confused as the Smiths/Healey fuel sending unit ought to be in 
the petrol tank, not on the Holden motor.

Cheers,

Bob

Peter Linn wrote:
> G'day list
> 
> I'm now looking at getting the V6-engined BN1 wired. Doesn't look like being a
> huge problem, but it may be difficult to get the Smiths fuel and temperature
> gauges working with the existing sensors on the Holden motor. This is all a
> mystery to me, but my auto electrician says it's down to the impedance range
> (Ohms) - for example, the Holden sender works at 40 Ohms (full) 97 Ohms (half)
> and 280 Ohms (empty) Does anyone know these figures for the Smiths fuel gauge,
> and, if it works on the same principle, the temperature gauge? Or is there a
> way of recalibrating the Smiths gauges?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> Bn1 Holden V6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jul  6 04:49:35 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 20:49:35 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Miss Marple
In-Reply-To: <A5A409F81FFE4099BC7930BF890D14AF@PeterPC>
References: <A5A409F81FFE4099BC7930BF890D14AF@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <7BC587885BE64EF181138F82B7A852E7@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Peter

By coincidence I was interviewing Steve Pike about how the Streamliner was
getting on at exactly the same time last night when that came on the box.

It was interesting as Steve and I are 600 miles apart, but still managed to
bag the terrible attempt they made at making the 100/6 look as if it had
been pranged.

Yes it was a 100/6 as the passenger door that was removed and later placed
on the jump seats had a door lock. 

I couldn't follow the plot either.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Linn
Sent: Monday, 6 July 2009 3:55 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Miss Marple

Watched the Agatha Christie Miss Marple episode "why didn't they ask Evans?"
on Oz ABC TV last night. One of the main (female) protagonists Frankie
Derwent
"prangs" her red 100/6 (I think)  as part of the plot. Car was dirtied up
for
the part & they went as far as taking off a door (at least I hope they took
it
off!)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jul  6 05:03:21 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:03:21 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
In-Reply-To: <4A51B49F.8020208@chello.nl>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<4A51B49F.8020208@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1C8B742569E34DBF98F3C34FBD869F2F@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Peter

I am fairly certain that Holden gauges are made by VDO here in Australia,
although VDO is a German company.

Have a word to Rod Smith of Classic Wiring Looms in Melbourne (03 9735
4317).

Rod is an ex Austin-Healey owner and will be able to assist, and make you a
harness that incorporates the wiring to allow the use of the Holden engine.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Monday, 6 July 2009 6:24 PM
To: Peter Linn
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges

I would not be surprised if the Holden unit is also manufactured by 
SMITHS. At least the resistance seems to be rather similar.
 From my mind the SMITHS figures are ca. 30-280 Ohm.
Kees Oudesluijs


Peter Linn schreef:
> G'day list
>
> I'm now looking at getting the V6-engined BN1 wired. Doesn't look like
being a
> huge problem, but it may be difficult to get the Smiths fuel and
temperature
> gauges working with the existing sensors on the Holden motor. This is all
a
> mystery to me, but my auto electrician says it's down to the impedance
range
> (Ohms) - for example, the Holden sender works at 40 Ohms (full) 97 Ohms
(half)
> and 280 Ohms (empty) Does anyone know these figures for the Smiths fuel
gauge,
> and, if it works on the same principle, the temperature gauge? Or is there
a
> way of recalibrating the Smiths gauges?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> Bn1 Holden V6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 06:33:39 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 08:33:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Miss Marple
In-Reply-To: <7BC587885BE64EF181138F82B7A852E7@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <A5A409F81FFE4099BC7930BF890D14AF@PeterPC>
	<7BC587885BE64EF181138F82B7A852E7@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS75BE5EA439754255FD001B32B0@phx.gbl>

...and how is the Streamliner coming along?
I am getting the Newsletter but thought you might be willing to share some
extra tidbits.  To all of the rest of the Listers, I encourage you to go to
www.healeysreturntobonneville.com and subscribe. See you at Bonneville!
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:49 AM
To: "'Peter Linn'" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Miss Marple

> G'day Peter
>
> By coincidence I was interviewing Steve Pike about how the Streamliner was
> getting on at exactly the same time last night when that came on the box.
>
> It was interesting as Steve and I are 600 miles apart, but still managed to
> bag the terrible attempt they made at making the 100/6 look as if it had
> been pranged.
>
> Yes it was a 100/6 as the passenger door that was removed and later placed
> on the jump seats had a door lock.
>
> I couldn't follow the plot either.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Peter Linn
> Sent: Monday, 6 July 2009 3:55 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Miss Marple
>
> Watched the Agatha Christie Miss Marple episode "why didn't they ask
Evans?"
> on Oz ABC TV last night. One of the main (female) protagonists Frankie
> Derwent
> "prangs" her red 100/6 (I think)  as part of the plot. Car was dirtied up
> for
> the part & they went as far as taking off a door (at least I hope they took
> it
> off!)
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 07:00:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 06:00:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A51F586.4020604@comcast.net>

I too, use distilled water.  However; am hearing that deionized is even better 
than distilled (ex: http://www.engineice.cc/faq.html)


Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Kees -
> 
> Many people use tap water to fill their radiators... this is what causes the
> scaling.  Using distilled water, as you suggest, is the only way to go.
> I've only ever rodded the radiator on a car I've purchased from someone
> else.  Once done, it runs cool and never clogs up again using distilled
> water.
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul  6 07:10:18 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 15:10:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A51F586.4020604@comcast.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<005301c9fd81$5775b470$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A50EC96.7000300@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907051603g3ab9e9e2i2717b62912169cdd@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51B178.1020900@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0907060124t14959bf5lfafb23b73cb64755@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A51F586.4020604@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A51F7BA.6050609@chello.nl>

Distilled should be free of any contaminants so in theory better that 
deionized, but I doubt if there is any noticable difference in practice. 
Anyhow, much of the so called distilled water is in fact deionized.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bob Spidell schreef:
> I too, use distilled water.  However; am hearing that deionized is 
> even better than distilled (ex: http://www.engineice.cc/faq.html)
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> Kees -
>>
>> Many people use tap water to fill their radiators... this is what 
>> causes the
>> scaling.  Using distilled water, as you suggest, is the only way to go.
>> I've only ever rodded the radiator on a car I've purchased from someone
>> else.  Once done, it runs cool and never clogs up again using distilled
>> water.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2220 - Release Date: 07/05/09 17:54:00

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 09:52:00 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 08:52:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>

To anyone who knows,

Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges


> G'day Peter -
> 
>...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
> your original guage without futzing around...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 10:25:46 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 12:25:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 09' Toronto Star Wheels
Message-ID: <BAY124-W3496BF9D0114AA5FAF3586D42B0@phx.gbl>

Viewed the article in the "Toronto Star" online and only saw one pic of a few
big Healeys from a right side/ frontal view.  Are there more in the paper
itself?  We were interviewed and they took some photos of us.  Love to see
them if there more.  Thanks, Shawn Miller
_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul  6 11:20:24 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:20:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings
Message-ID: <012401c9fe5e$0d38b190$9101a8c0@home>

Given that I've not packed a front wheel bearing since high school, I 
checked the service manual, which recommends repacking the grease cups every 
6,000 miles.  I then read that, on a disc wheel car (as mine was originally, 
and converted to wires with Dayton K-A series wheels, rather than 
replacement with wire wheel hubs) there is a special tool to remove the 
grease cups.

So, is there some trick to getting the cups off without damaging them?  I'm 
also assuming from the description in the manual that one does not pull the 
nuts and the bearings themselves for packing.  Can someone provide the 
procedure for pulling the cups and packing the bearings?

Thanks.

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 12:17:00 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Replacement
Message-ID: <000c01c9fe65$f4c457b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

After reading the archive postings on this subject I would really like the
consensus of the list
as to whether or not totally disassembling the windscreen is necessary.   I
was able to
install the left and right windscreen pillars and finally the doors actually
shut without hindrance.

The glass slid in between the pillars quite well and I was actually able to
get all the 10-24  screws installed quite easily.

My questions are:
           Am I kidding myself thinking that there aren't going to be leaks
around the glass and glass frame?

           Should there be sealant or a gasket material put between the
pillars and the glass frame?

I really don't want to tare the glass and frame apart unless it is know that
they do leak after so many years.  This all went together so nicely this
time.

Thanks,  Mark

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 12:20:06 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 14:20:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Its a BT7 windsceen
Message-ID: <000601c9fe66$63ad9790$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Fyi,   the car is a BT7

Mark

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 13:12:13 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:12:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250907061212v33dd8808gda184c2a054072dc@mail.gmail.com>

Well, for me as a Dutchman it's very simple: we say  Oztralia
Jack Aeckerlin

2009/7/6 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>

> To anyone who knows,
>
> Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
>
>
>  G'day Peter -
>>
>> ...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
>> your original guage without futzing around...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Mon Jul  6 13:25:20 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:25:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250907061212v33dd8808gda184c2a054072dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC><ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com><901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
	<4e23c7250907061212v33dd8808gda184c2a054072dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F33B47C4@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

I always thought it means Old Zealand. Not to confuse with New Zealand.

Josef Eckert

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Jaap Aeckerlin
Gesendet: Montag, 6. Juli 2009 21:12
An: healeys at autox.team.net; Douglas Lyon
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ

Well, for me as a Dutchman it's very simple: we say  Oztralia Jack Aeckerlin

2009/7/6 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>

> To anyone who knows,
>
> Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist"
> <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
>
>
>  G'day Peter -
>>
>> ...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
>> your original guage without futzing around...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as josef.eckert at t-systems.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From mkgoodman at att.net  Mon Jul  6 16:19:14 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 18:19:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anything going on in LA this weekend
Message-ID: <000801c9fe87$cc7130e0$655392a0$@net>

I am flying from NY to LA on Saturday afternoon  for business and wonder if
there is any Healey related events or "get together" this Sunday, July the
12th.   

 

Mark Goodman

66 BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Mon Jul  6 16:55:23 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 18:55:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC><ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
Message-ID: <C29B73F5DEB943B5A9281B8DC9C5FF51@AtkinsonPC>

In your best Australian accent say "oz-stralia". Which is the correct
pronunciation?
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Lyon
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:52 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ

To anyone who knows,

Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges


> G'day Peter -
> 
>...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
> your original guage without futzing around...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as satkinson7314 at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 17:13:38 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 19:13:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frauds
Message-ID: <001701c9fe8f$654503d0$2fcf0b70$@net>

Boy, I'll tell ya that the Healey fraud guys should look at the Michael
Jackson stuff on eBay to learn how to perpetrate one. Just go on eBay and
search for "Michael Jackson Memorial Tickets" Crazy stuff -- bidding
starting at 3k or so then runs up to almost a hundred million before eBay
pulls it off. Been looking at it off and on for about an hour (I Know, I've
gotta get a life) but it is sure fun seeing how eBay can be manipulated.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 17:21:44 2009
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:21:44 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
Message-ID: <5a607cf80907061621r2b903eb3m6a94db21c3f3880c@mail.gmail.com>

Because we are fundamentally lazy ,&  anti-Establishment  anything to stick
it up the Queens English is fair go,

Keith Taylor  OZ

BN1
BN2
100M.....if I ever finish them


 ,
2009/7/7 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>

> To anyone who knows,
>
> Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
>
>
> G'day Peter -
>>
>> ...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
>> your original guage without futzing around...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Mon Jul  6 17:22:00 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:22:00 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <C29B73F5DEB943B5A9281B8DC9C5FF51@AtkinsonPC>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC><ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
	<C29B73F5DEB943B5A9281B8DC9C5FF51@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61C1@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day

Fair suck of the sav, youse blokes.

Every Shelia and Bruce knows that the correct way of saying is Oztrayla.

Next youse will want us to speak like bloody pommies.

Hoo Roo

Bruce Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon & Christine Atkinson
Sent: Tuesday, 7 July 2009 8:55 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ

In your best Australian accent say "oz-stralia". Which is the correct
pronunciation?


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Lyon
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:52 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ

To anyone who knows,

Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges


> G'day Peter -
>
>...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
> your original guage without futzing around...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as satkinson7314 at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

http://www.team.net/archive
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 17:49:53 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:49:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Smiths instruments
Message-ID: <812744.69881.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have a book , hard cover  April 1970 called The Dashboard Revolution  ..
this a long way out of print , but it could still be available used  ...if you
need to know how a Smiths gauge works this is the book for you ..RPM-oil-
water-clocks-oil pressure- oil temp-amps-and much more by Smith Industries &
Patrick Stephens Ltd               Norman Nock

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 19:13:14 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:13:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <5a607cf80907061621r2b903eb3m6a94db21c3f3880c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
	<5a607cf80907061621r2b903eb3m6a94db21c3f3880c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907061813t12403ad4tb1d92efc6e9ddf8f@mail.gmail.com>

I'm sorry Keith, I don't speak your language.  Would you be so kind as to
explain exactly where on her anatomy is Her Majesty's English?

Many Thanks,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 7:21 AM, keith taylor <ktee20 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Because we are fundamentally lazy ,&  anti-Establishment  anything to stick
> it up the Queens English is fair go,
>
> Keith Taylor  OZ
>
> BN1
> BN2
> 100M.....if I ever finish them
>
>
>  ,
> 2009/7/7 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>
>
> > To anyone who knows,
> >
> > Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
> >
> > Douglas Lyon
> > Claremont, CA
> >
> > '59 BN7
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> > Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
> >
> >
> > G'day Peter -
> >>
> >> ...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
> >> your original guage without futzing around...
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >>
> >> Alan
> >>
> >> '52 A90
> >> '53 BN1
> >> '64 BJ8
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  6 19:17:33 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 18:17:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys]  Smiths instruments
Message-ID: <479874.35609.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Tks, Norm~~~
got one at Amazon a moment ago; there is one left. These are #1 used coming from associates.

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Mon Jul  6 19:32:53 2009
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:32:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC><ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com><901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1><C29B73F5DEB943B5A9281B8DC9C5FF51@AtkinsonPC>
	<7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61C1@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <02837708FE6B4CE5BD5D8E431110E402@mal71b83fb7a5c>

G'day Bruce,
Well you've got me this time; clarify : "fair suck of the sav", I'm ok with 
the first four words.

Bruce Bruce
Ontario, Canada
(former Pom, but friendly towards most colonials)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'Simon & Christine Atkinson'" <satkinson7314 at charter.net>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ


> G'day
>
> Fair suck of the sav, youse blokes.
>
> Every Shelia and Bruce knows that the correct way of saying is Oztrayla.
>
> Next youse will want us to speak like bloody pommies.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Bruce Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon & Christine Atkinson
> Sent: Tuesday, 7 July 2009 8:55 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
>
> In your best Australian accent say "oz-stralia". Which is the correct
> pronunciation?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Douglas Lyon
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:52 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
>
> To anyone who knows,
>
> Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
>
>
>> G'day Peter -
>>
>>...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
>> your original guage without futzing around...
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as satkinson7314 at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
> **********************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
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17:54:00

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Mon Jul  6 19:34:37 2009
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:34:37 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Insulation
Message-ID: <D5AD249CE59C458DAC3AB7C10B0B6076@KeithDell>

Hi All
        Thank you for the information on the matter of insulation for my
healey
        I now have something to work towards thanks again
        Keith

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Mon Jul  6 19:40:59 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:40:59 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <02837708FE6B4CE5BD5D8E431110E402@mal71b83fb7a5c>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC><ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com><901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1><C29B73F5DEB943B5A9281B8DC9C5FF51@AtkinsonPC>
	<7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61C1@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>
	<02837708FE6B4CE5BD5D8E431110E402@mal71b83fb7a5c>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01053D61C2@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day mal

You had to ask and I know that you will be sorry you did.

Hoo Roo

Patrick

An Australian manufacturer describes saveloys as "sausages made from quality
pork and beef finely minced with mild seasoning filled into distinctive red
casings and naturally woodsmoked." Australians may or may not believe the
words 'quality', 'finely', 'mild', 'distinctive',  and 'naturally', but they
expect their saveloys to be defiantly, gloriously red.

Boiled saveloys prompted a memorable Australian phrase, "fair suck of the
sav." The original meaning appears to have been lost, although it is possible
that it refers to what has been called red soup. In times of hardship,
'saveloy soup' is the red water in which the saveloy is boiled; it forms the
main meal, and as a treat one gets a suck (not a bite) of the saveloy itself.
That sausage is saved to serve another day.

The term could also have evolved from, "Fair crack of the whip," which
appeared in 1924 in the Sydney paper Truth, and "fair suck of the sauce
bottle," both colloquialisms meaning an equitable opportunity or a reasonable
chance. The following appeared in 1972 Bulletin Sydney, "Humpries goes down
under a knuckle sandwich, his mouth and detached teeth so reddened you can see
he's had more than a fair suck of the sauce bottle."

Traditionally saveloys were eaten boiled. How long Australians have been
battering them, let alone battering footballers, is uncertain.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mal Bruce [mailto:mbruce6 at cogeco.ca]

G'day Bruce,
Well you've got me this time; clarify : "fair suck of the sav", I'm ok with
the first four words.

Bruce Bruce
Ontario, Canada
(former Pom, but friendly towards most colonials)
----- Original Message -----

> G'day
>
> Fair suck of the sav, youse blokes.
>
> Every Shelia and Bruce knows that the correct way of saying is Oztrayla.
>
> Next youse will want us to speak like bloody pommies.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Bruce Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 19:51:05 2009
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:51:05 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907061813t12403ad4tb1d92efc6e9ddf8f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
	<5a607cf80907061621r2b903eb3m6a94db21c3f3880c@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0907061813t12403ad4tb1d92efc6e9ddf8f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5a607cf80907061851s16688c41qe1827287faf05423@mail.gmail.com>

Allan are you a Monarchist ?  In Feudal Times the reigning King or Queen
owned everything
probably still think they do ie The Kings Subjects
...The King Currency.."The Kings English  etc...This was not an anatomical
comment.

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL OZ
BN1
BN2
100m....if I ever finish them

2009/7/7 Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>

> I'm sorry Keith, I don't speak your language.  Would you be so kind as to
> explain exactly where on her anatomy is Her Majesty's English?
>
> Many Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
>   On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 7:21 AM, keith taylor <ktee20 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  Because we are fundamentally lazy ,&  anti-Establishment  anything to
>> stick
>> it up the Queens English is fair go,
>>
>> Keith Taylor  OZ
>>
>> BN1
>> BN2
>> 100M.....if I ever finish them
>>
>>
>>  ,
>> 2009/7/7 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>
>>
>> > To anyone who knows,
>> >
>> > Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>> >
>> > Douglas Lyon
>> > Claremont, CA
>> >
>> > '59 BN7
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" <
>> healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> > To: "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
>> > Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> > Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 1:51 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel and temperature gauges
>> >
>> >
>> > G'day Peter -
>> >>
>> >> ...This shouldn't cost too much to have done in OZ.  Then you can use
>> >> your original guage without futzing around...
>> >>
>> >> Cheers,
>> >>
>> >> Alan
>> >>
>> >> '52 A90
>> >> '53 BN1
>> >> '64 BJ8
>> >>
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com
>>    >
>> > http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  6 19:59:19 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 18:59:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
Message-ID: <888218.71455.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tire seekers,

Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big Healeys - Universal Vintage
Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.

www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  6 20:12:28 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 19:12:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Smiths instruments
Message-ID: <813557.57753.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

There is one on eBay at the moment at 300326643497   
http://tinyurl.com/l2jojc
The auction has about 7 hours to go with 2 bids at $9.15 US plus shipping from
Australia.
 
It is a great little book; I got my copy from a used book store about 20 years
ago for a couple of dollars.
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN& & '62 MkII BT7
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 7/6/09, Norman Nock <sjnnock at sbcglobal.net> wrote: << I have a
book , hard cover  April 1970 called The Dashboard Revolution  .. this a long
way out of print , but it could still be available used  ...if you need to
know how a Smiths gauge works this is the book for you
..RPM-oil-water-clocks-oil pressure- oil temp-amps-and much more by Smith
Industries & Patrick Stephens Ltd  >>
__________________________________________________________________
Be smarter
than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the
All-new Yahoo! Mail.  Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or
register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jul  6 21:55:59 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 03:55:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?radiator_water?=
Message-ID: <20090707035559.24733.qmail@server278.com>

i learned the hard way about adding tap water to a radiator.  here in vegas the water comes from the colorado river, which has massive amounts of calcium and other minerals that will eat up a cooling system.  it even ate up the pipes in my house and i had to have the house replumbed with some kind of plastic pipe and fittings.  you ought to see what it did to my neighbor's golf cart batteries.  i use only distilled or reverse osmosis water no matter where i go.  better safe than sorry.  BTW, i added some of that Water Wetter to my cooling system on the bn6 with negative results.  did not change the temp on the guage one iota.  worth a try, i guess.     hjim

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Jul  6 22:17:27 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>

I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to what might
be causing it would be greatly appreciated:

I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel starting
about 65 mph.  Below that speed I feel nothing unusual.  The vibration is more
pronounced as I apply brakes and goes away as the car slows below 45 to 55
mph.  Tires are relatively new and I have rotated them (front to back) which
has no effect on the vibration.  Brakes are good (recently checked by dealer).
The vibration seems to be stronger on ruff road surfaces, almost disappearing
if I hit a very smooth patch of concrete on the freeway.  Shocks seem OK.  Car
is not bouncing up and down as it would with worn shocks.  There is no
vibration at slower speeds or when applying brakes at slower speeds.

I'm not really setup to work on the vehicle myself so I need to take it to a
dealer but I hate to go in without any idea as to what might be wrong.

Thanks for any ideas.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 22:21:39 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:21:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
References: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
Message-ID: <471534970907062121n51818806r46b026699503c742@mail.gmail.com>

Ron,

Shimmy is the same whether it's a modern car or an older one.

#1. Are the tires balanced properly? Front tires on a FWD can greatly
affect the driving, and it shows up more at speed than moving slowly.
#2. Is the suspension aligned correctly?

Answering those two questions generally resolves most results.

Jody

On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 9:17 PM, Ron Fine<RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:
> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to what
might
> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
>
> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel
starting
> about 65 mph.  Below that speed I feel nothing unusual.  The vibration is
more
> pronounced as I apply brakes and goes away as the car slows below 45 to 55
> mph.  Tires are relatively new and I have rotated them (front to back)
which
> has no effect on the vibration.  Brakes are good (recently checked by
dealer).
> The vibration seems to be stronger on ruff road surfaces, almost
disappearing
> if I hit a very smooth patch of concrete on the freeway.  Shocks seem OK.
 Car
> is not bouncing up and down as it would with worn shocks.  There is no
> vibration at slower speeds or when applying brakes at slower speeds.
>
> I'm not really setup to work on the vehicle myself so I need to take it to
a
> dealer but I hate to go in without any idea as to what might be wrong.
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  6 23:36:02 2009
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (bertvanbrande at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 22:36:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anything going on in LA this weekend
Message-ID: <661279.18461.qm@web110215.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi Mark,

You can check out the activities of the Austin-Healey Association of
Southern-California at http://www.austin-healey.org in the event calendar or
in the recurring event section.

There is a club event on saturday (till 6pm) but not on sunday.  On sunday we
have 5 recurring events the club doesn't organize but participates in.  You
can also check on http://www.socalcarculture.com if you want to cast a wider
net.

I'll forward your request to our club president and vice-president as they
might know of clubmembers going to the sunday events listed below.

For a virtual visit, there's 2000+ Healey pics online in the image galleries.

cheers,

Bert
webmaster http://www.austin-healey.org


Recurring events for sunday, clubmembers might show up for:

Aliso Viejo / Cruisin' at the Neighborhood Cup / 1 Journey @ AV Public Library
/   8-11AM / Casual Meet / Contact: 949-716-5100

Long Beach / Car Lovers Celebration / Queen Mary @ Domed Plaza / 10-4PM Every
3rd or 4th Sun. / Sports & classics w/trophies / Contact: 951-845-5916

Santa Ana / Elks Dream Car Revue / 212 S. Elks Lane behind Saddleback Hotel /
11-2PM Every 1st Sun / Casual Meet w/prizes

Santa Ana / Gasoline Alley Customs & Classics / 100 S. Main St @ Original
Mike's /11-2PM Every 2nd & 4th Sun / Casual Meet

Tustin / Million Dollar Bkfst Cruise / 55 FWY & 17th Street &  @ Enderlee
center /  7-11AM / Every 1st and Last Sunday / Contact: 949-300-8329 /
949-422-6035

Yorba Linda / Cruisin' Main Street / 4902 Main St / 12-4PM Every 3rd Sun /
Casual Meet / Contact: 714-883-1661 




--- On Tue, 7/7/09, Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Anything going on in LA this weekend
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 12:19 AM
> I am flying from NY to LA on Saturday
> afternoon  for business and wonder if
> there is any Healey related events or "get together" this
> Sunday, July the
> 12th.   
>
> 
>
> Mark Goodman
> 66 BJ8 35503

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul  7 01:30:10 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 09:30:10 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey/MG question
In-Reply-To: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
References: <0CA7C654C1D143C799656977BC1CDDAE@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4A52F982.4040205@chello.nl>

Sounds like play in the front suspension ball joints or steering knuckles.
If done more than 50.000miles, suspect the dampers, even if the car does 
not bounce up and down.
Also look if a steering damper is fitted, if so this will probably be 
faulty.
Another possibility is worn or collapsed rubber suspension mountings/bushes.
Kees Oudesluijs


Ron Fine schreef:
> I have a 2003 Honda Minivan with a front end issue.  Any idea as to what might
> be causing it would be greatly appreciated:
>
> I get a vibration or shimmy (left/right) through the steering wheel starting
> about 65 mph.  Below that speed I feel nothing unusual.  The vibration is more
> pronounced as I apply brakes and goes away as the car slows below 45 to 55
> mph.  Tires are relatively new and I have rotated them (front to back) which
> has no effect on the vibration.  Brakes are good (recently checked by dealer).
> The vibration seems to be stronger on ruff road surfaces, almost disappearing
> if I hit a very smooth patch of concrete on the freeway.  Shocks seem OK.  Car
> is not bouncing up and down as it would with worn shocks.  There is no
> vibration at slower speeds or when applying brakes at slower speeds.
>
> I'm not really setup to work on the vehicle myself so I need to take it to a
> dealer but I hate to go in without any idea as to what might be wrong.
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
> 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.6/2221 - Release Date: 07/06/09 17:54:00

From jculphealey at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  7 07:15:19 2009
From: jculphealey at yahoo.com (Jim Culp)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 06:15:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Ex-Donald Healey 1961 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk II article
Message-ID: <255054.14732.qm@web46313.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

http://www.sportscarmarket.com/Profiles/2009/July/English/

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Jul  7 07:16:03 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:16:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] OZ
Message-ID: <4A534A93.8030705@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

I dont know which pub those other two experts were at but when 
Australians were at international sporting events the war cry was 
"Aussie,Aussie,Aussie".
Now when you say this quickly with gusto and national pride and 
excitement the rest of the world hears, "Ozy,ozy,ozy". Derived from this 
you have OZ, the place where the OZY comes from. The official journal of 
Australian language, The Macquarie Dictionary, managed and issued by the 
Macquarie University in Sydney ( named after an early Governor of the 
new British Colony) lists OZ as  - 'Australian'
Interestingly anyone can submit their own local or regional made up or 
bastardised version of an existing word and the Macqurie people will 
investigate how widely used the new word is and enter it in the next 
edition of the only true Australian dictionary.

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Jul  7 07:29:34 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:29:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres and Healey Tracking and Stability
Message-ID: <4A534DBE.2020705@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

James
You may already be aware that some tyres now have a 3 digit number on 
the sidewall beside the word WEAR FACTOR. This is apparently a rating 
indicating that under a controlled standard test it indicates relative 
wear. My opinion only, is that this indicates rubber softness to some 
extent which should also relate to grip and adhesion.
I have had good quality 17 inch, low profile  Michelens and Continentals 
with number 240. The lowest number on a 17 inch performance road tyre on 
a showroom new car was 140. High mileage tyres are often as high as 380
The Bridgestone Advan road legal track tyres I have on my racing Sprite 
are 80. Maybe this can help you with the relative performance of 
different tyres.
You obviously like to use your car some what differently to a lot of the 
listers who just tour from one location to another.

Joe

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Jul  7 07:45:44 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:45:44 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Shake
Message-ID: <4A535188.2050302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

Please do not assume that when your tyre has been dynamically balanced 
that you have necessarily eliminated all potential causes of vibration. 
Should the tyre be out of round, flat spoted etc. or as has happened to 
me with a new wheel the rim ( not spokes) had not been manufactured 
correctly, the wheel/ tyre can have weights added to compensate for the 
dynamic forces generated by the out of true. BUT when you return the 
assembly  to run on the radius of the tyre/wheel any dimensional error 
and out of tolerence will cause the wheel to rise and fall each time 
that point comes in contact with the road surface. Additionally a 
defective tyre may appear true at the low speeds used to dynamically 
balance them but at speeed and with heat it can deform to an out of 
round state. The join in the tread is often the point at where the 
dimensional accuracy fails. Thus balanced on a free standing axle or 
machine shaft is no guarantee of  NO SHAKES

From 3000mk3 at bighealey.org  Tue Jul  7 07:53:36 2009
From: 3000mk3 at bighealey.org (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:53:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel or Tire Shake
In-Reply-To: <4A535188.2050302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
References: <4A535188.2050302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <002901c9ff0a$5393f0d0$fabbd270$@org>

Discount Tire (and I'm guessing others) has a machine (at least that's what
they told me) that runs the tire and wheel at speed.
We had a bad (new) tire that was out of round, you could see it move up and
down. 
As a side note: I had to push them to find a solution, as they kept saying
everything was fine.

Tom Mitchell
1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MK3

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joe and Lenore Armour
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 9:46 AM
To: Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Shake

Please do not assume that when your tyre has been dynamically balanced 
that you have necessarily eliminated all potential causes of vibration. 
Should the tyre be out of round, flat spoted etc. or as has happened to 
me with a new wheel the rim ( not spokes) had not been manufactured 
correctly, the wheel/ tyre can have weights added to compensate for the 
dynamic forces generated by the out of true. BUT when you return the 
assembly  to run on the radius of the tyre/wheel any dimensional error 
and out of tolerence will cause the wheel to rise and fall each time 
that point comes in contact with the road surface. Additionally a 
defective tyre may appear true at the low speeds used to dynamically 
balance them but at speeed and with heat it can deform to an out of 
round state. The join in the tread is often the point at where the 
dimensional accuracy fails. Thus balanced on a free standing axle or 
machine shaft is no guarantee of  NO SHAKES
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as 3000mk3 at bighealey.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 08:35:01 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 07:35:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Windscreen Replacement
Message-ID: <1255BACB-7EBC-4636-B5D8-1770546642C8@comcast.net>

A couple of years ago I replaced the glass in my BJ8 windscreen.   
Whenever I go to the difficulty of removing a component, eg., the  
windscreen from my car I go through the item fairly comprehensively.   
After undergoing the effort to remove the item from the car I see no  
reason to take shortcuts.  Mr. La Pierre's question seems to indicate  
the rubber weather seal around the glass frame may not have been  
replaced.  I don't know if the old one will now leak. But, I replaced  
the seal as well as the windscreen to car body weather seal and  
experienced no leaks at those locations.  However, I initially had  
major leaks at the bases of the pillars, where they pass through the  
body metal and down to the bolt mountings.  I recommend careful and  
thorough repacking of glazing putty around the area beneath the hole  
in the body metal.  Then test for water proof seal before the first  
deluge from Mother Nature.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 08:55:24 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 07:55:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware
Message-ID: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>

Good morning list folk,

I recently completed a total gearbox and overdrive tear down, parts  
inspection and replacement as necessary, and reassembly.  After the  
system was back in the car and had 600-700 miles on it I needed to  
correct a major leak that had developed.  As a result of this second  
effort I found nearly all of the nuts and bolts on the system casework  
required re-tightening.  Having never before having tackled a project  
like a transmission overhaul I was surprised to find the fasteners had  
apparently loosened.  I had very carefully wrenched them all during  
the reassembly process with the objective of making sure all nuts/lock  
washers and bolts were as tight as they had been on disassembly.   Yet  
they all took one to two flats of re-tightening during the leak  
search.  Is this need to re-tighten transmission hardware at all  
common?  Oh yeah, leak found and fixed.

Mark 3
'66 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 09:02:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 08:02:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Solenoid Question
Message-ID: <4A536387.4020608@comcast.net>

Have learned there are two circuits in the solenoid: one high-current circuit to 
do the initial pull on the piston and another, lower-current circuit to hold the 
piston in the 'up' position.

How are the two circuits effected; i.e. are there two sets of windings and a 
switch to each, two sets of points with some resistance built-in (seems like 
this might get hot) or ????


TIA,
Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Jul  7 12:04:58 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:04:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware
References: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <803CD93F8A9241BCAE11CB82C9B8CE0C@LIFEBOOK>

Mark, et al,

I would suggest that if you used all new lockwashers where required, the 
situation was not likely the backing off of the hardware, but rather the 
settling of the gaskets and sealing agent at the joints. After some time of 
being repeatedly heated and cooled causing expansion and shrinkage, plus the 
compressing factoron the gaskets, it's quite common to have to retighten the 
joint fasteners.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Schneider" <mandmschneider at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 7:55 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware


> Good morning list folk,
>
> I recently completed a total gearbox and overdrive tear down, parts 
> inspection and replacement as necessary, and reassembly.  After the 
> system was back in the car and had 600-700 miles on it I needed to 
> correct a major leak that had developed.  As a result of this second 
> effort I found nearly all of the nuts and bolts on the system casework 
> required re-tightening.  Having never before having tackled a project 
> like a transmission overhaul I was surprised to find the fasteners had 
> apparently loosened.  I had very carefully wrenched them all during  the 
> reassembly process with the objective of making sure all nuts/lock 
> washers and bolts were as tight as they had been on disassembly.   Yet 
> they all took one to two flats of re-tightening during the leak  search. 
> Is this need to re-tighten transmission hardware at all  common?  Oh yeah, 
> leak found and fixed.
>
> Mark 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 09:30:16 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:30:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware
In-Reply-To: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>
References: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <41F8DD0B-70EC-41CA-AA31-9BD413903FCF@sbcglobal.net>

NO the bolts will not loosen up on the transmission after driving.  
The only way they could have been loose is that you did not tighten  
them up when it was put together.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 7, 2009, at 7:55 AM, Mark Schneider wrote:

> Good morning list folk,
>
> I recently completed a total gearbox and overdrive tear down, parts  
> inspection and replacement as necessary, and reassembly.  After the  
> system was back in the car and had 600-700 miles on it I needed to  
> correct a major leak that had developed.  As a result of this  
> second effort I found nearly all of the nuts and bolts on the  
> system casework required re-tightening.  Having never before having  
> tackled a project like a transmission overhaul I was surprised to  
> find the fasteners had apparently loosened.  I had very carefully  
> wrenched them all during the reassembly process with the objective  
> of making sure all nuts/lock washers and bolts were as tight as  
> they had been on disassembly.   Yet they all took one to two flats  
> of re-tightening during the leak search.  Is this need to re- 
> tighten transmission hardware at all common?  Oh yeah, leak found  
> and fixed.
>
> Mark 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 09:32:54 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:32:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Solenoid Question
In-Reply-To: <4A536387.4020608@comcast.net>
References: <4A536387.4020608@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A6854932-BE5F-41C2-8504-6AE6087E5ABC@sbcglobal.net>

There are two seperate windings and when the plunger comes up there  
is a set of contacts under the rubber boot that change the circuit  
form the primary to the secondary windings.

If the adjustment is not correct it will not switch over and the  
primary winding will burn up and ruin the solenoid


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 7, 2009, at 8:02 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Have learned there are two circuits in the solenoid: one high- 
> current circuit to do the initial pull on the piston and another,  
> lower-current circuit to hold the piston in the 'up' position.
>
> How are the two circuits effected; i.e. are there two sets of  
> windings and a switch to each, two sets of points with some  
> resistance built-in (seems like this might get hot) or ????
>
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 11:38:38 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 17:38:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware
Message-ID: <349086607.1148061246988318322.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Mark- 

I recently experienced the same thing on my centreshift gearbox. I torqued everything properly prior to installation, and found it leaked after initial running and subsequent heatup. I retorqued everything, and took the car on a 1200 mile trip with no recurrent leak troubles. 

Regards, Tom 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul  7 11:53:28 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 19:53:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox & Overdrive Hardware
In-Reply-To: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>
References: <C2A6246F-37D1-434A-8BF3-5081ACFA6C1A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A538B98.50308@chello.nl>

Did you use a torque wrench and did you apply the specified torque loads?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Mark Schneider schreef:
> Good morning list folk,
>
> I recently completed a total gearbox and overdrive tear down, parts 
> inspection and replacement as necessary, and reassembly.  After the 
> system was back in the car and had 600-700 miles on it I needed to 
> correct a major leak that had developed.  As a result of this second 
> effort I found nearly all of the nuts and bolts on the system casework 
> required re-tightening.  Having never before having tackled a project 
> like a transmission overhaul I was surprised to find the fasteners had 
> apparently loosened.  I had very carefully wrenched them all during 
> the reassembly process with the objective of making sure all nuts/lock 
> washers and bolts were as tight as they had been on disassembly.   Yet 
> they all took one to two flats of re-tightening during the leak 
> search.  Is this need to re-tighten transmission hardware at all 
> common?  Oh yeah, leak found and fixed.
>
> Mark 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.386 / Virus Database: 270.13.7/2222 - Release Date: 07/07/09 05:53:00

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Tue Jul  7 11:57:56 2009
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 17:57:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <012401c9fe5e$0d38b190$9101a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <070720091757.3421.4A538CA4000D9F0F00000D5D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>

 I made an adapter for my slide hammer to thread onto the cups stud and it pulls right off every time. I don't see how packing the cup with grease will replace packing the bearing, it needs to be pulled to pack it properly.

--
Tim Davis BN7 
  -------------- Original message from "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>: --------------


> Given that I've not packed a front wheel bearing since high school, I 
> checked the service manual, which recommends repacking the grease cups every 
> 6,000 miles.  I then read that, on a disc wheel car (as mine was originally, 
> and converted to wires with Dayton K-A series wheels, rather than 
> replacement with wire wheel hubs) there is a special tool to remove the 
> grease cups.
> 
> So, is there some trick to getting the cups off without damaging them?  I'm 
> also assuming from the description in the manual that one does not pull the 
> nuts and the bearings themselves for packing.  Can someone provide the 
> procedure for pulling the cups and packing the bearings?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA 
> _______________________________________________

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue Jul  7 13:59:19 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:59:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings, follow up
Message-ID: <00a101c9ff3d$6a3bc640$9101a8c0@home>

Thanks to those who replied to me directly.  So, my follow up question to 
the list, how frequently do the bearings need to be removed and repacked?

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 14:14:17 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 20:14:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings, follow up
In-Reply-To: <00a101c9ff3d$6a3bc640$9101a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <1466296961.1171151246997657616.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I do mine when I turn or replace the brake rotors (usually around 50K miles). 


Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> 
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2009 12:59:19 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings, follow up 

Thanks to those who replied to me directly. So, my follow up question to 
the list, how frequently do the bearings need to be removed and repacked? 

Bruce Steele 
1960 BN7 
Brea, CA 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Jul  7 14:49:27 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 16:49:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings, follow up
In-Reply-To: <1466296961.1171151246997657616.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <00a101c9ff3d$6a3bc640$9101a8c0@home>
	<1466296961.1171151246997657616.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00db01c9ff44$6b188d80$4149a880$@rr.com>

Yeah, me, too.  If you pack them well to start with, they probably won't
need it again until you have some other reason to pull the rotor.  Anytime I
remove the rotor I clean, inspect, and repack the bearings.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:14 PM
To: Healey Bruce
Cc: Healey Mail Group
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Packing front wheel bearings, follow up

I do mine when I turn or replace the brake rotors (usually around 50K
miles). 


Bob 

From bighealey at astound.net  Tue Jul  7 18:24:04 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 17:24:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
References: <888218.71455.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <411E22AF0E744B4E91E997029C622159@Soderling>

Or how about this one on sale 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657 93T  "T" rated and on 
sale for $45.64 at online tires at
http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+federal+ss657+93t.html

Vrooom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> Tire seekers,
>
> Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big Healeys - Universal 
> Vintage
> Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
>
> www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From charlieoc at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 19:21:31 2009
From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:21:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <411E22AF0E744B4E91E997029C622159@Soderling>
References: <888218.71455.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<411E22AF0E744B4E91E997029C622159@Soderling>
Message-ID: <007d01c9ff6a$6d58c440$480a4cc0$@net>

I have these on my BT7.  Don't know if I need the assurance of a "T" rating,
but it looks pretty good and appears to wear well.

Charlie O'Connors

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Soderling
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 8:24 PM
To: Robert Blair; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...

Or how about this one on sale 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657 93T  "T" rated and on 
sale for $45.64 at online tires at
http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+fede
ral+ss657+93t.html

Vrooom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> Tire seekers,
>
> Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big Healeys - Universal 
> Vintage
> Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
>
> www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as charlieoc at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  7 19:47:10 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 18:47:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <007d01c9ff6a$6d58c440$480a4cc0$@net>
References: <888218.71455.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<411E22AF0E744B4E91E997029C622159@Soderling>
	<007d01c9ff6a$6d58c440$480a4cc0$@net>
Message-ID: <298731.42252.qm@web110302.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

be sure and watch the date codes--even new tires can be 2 years or more old.
________________________________
From: Charlie O'Connors
<charlieoc at comcast.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 7, 2009 9:21:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire
choice available...

I have these on my BT7.  Don't know if I need the
assurance of a "T" rating,
but it looks pretty good and appears to wear well.
Charlie O'Connors

-----Original Message-----
From:
healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of John Soderling
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 8:24 PM
To: Robert
Blair; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice
available...

Or how about this one on sale 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657 93T  "T"
rated and on 
sale for $45.64 at online tires at
http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+fede
ral+ss657+93t.html

Vrooom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red

----- Original Message
----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject:
[Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> Tire seekers,
>
> Just
noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big Healeys - Universal 
> Vintage
>
Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
>
> www.universaltire.com
- 800233-3827.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are
subscribed as charlieoc at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

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From pennell at cox.net  Tue Jul  7 21:00:22 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 23:00:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <888218.71455.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090707230022.PY6DC.169498.imail@eastrmwml31>

Robert,

Which is the new tire?  All I have seen before and are each well over $10?

Keith

---- Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Tire seekers,
> 
> Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big Healeys - Universal Vintage
> Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
> 
> www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
> 
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From amalin at mac.com  Tue Jul  7 21:07:57 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 23:07:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] my conclave 2009 photos
Message-ID: <3A060FB9-0323-4CF7-A964-7F5E52056D15@mac.com>

I've posted my Conclave 2009 photos to my web site.

There are two pages of thumbnails.  Every photo has three views.   
Click on a thumbnail view to see a larger web view; click on a larger  
view to see a high resolution view.

If you have an interest in any of them, feel free to download and use  
them for your personal and non-commercial use.

http://tricarb.com/gallery/conclave09

Al Malin
Tricarb

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Tue Jul  7 21:13:24 2009
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:13:24 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Blue BJ8 at Conclave
Message-ID: <2388FB35555E4869A11EB9877FF1647C@your4dacd0ea75>

Looking to contact the owner of the blue BJ8 (California Plate UBR 128) that
is shown on the Tuesday A&W Cruise Night photo's from Conclave 2009 as I would
like some information/photographs of the throttle cable linkage.

Is the owner on the list or does anyone have contact details that they could
forward to me?

Thank you.

Norman
59 BN7

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  7 22:57:22 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:57:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
Message-ID: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John,  Not really a period looking tire design, and it is a /80 profile - not
std profile.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Tue, 7/7/09, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net> wrote:

> From: John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
> To: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>, "Healey List"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 5:24 PM
> Or how about this one on sale
> 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657 93T  "T" rated and on sale for
> $45.64 at online tires at
>
http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+feder
al+ss657+93t.html
>
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> Erika the Red
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>
>
> > Tire seekers,
> >
> > Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big
> Healeys - Universal Vintage
> > Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
> >
> > www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  7 22:58:15 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:58:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
Message-ID: <413247.49568.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Charlie, You do not need a T rating.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Tue, 7/7/09, Charlie O'Connors <charlieoc at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Charlie O'Connors <charlieoc at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 6:21 PM
> I have these on my BT7.  Don't
> know if I need the assurance of a "T" rating,
> but it looks pretty good and appears to wear well.
>
> Charlie O'Connors
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of John Soderling
> Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 8:24 PM
> To: Robert Blair; Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice
> available...
>
> Or how about this one on sale 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657
> 93T  "T" rated and on
> sale for $45.64 at online tires at
>
http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+fede
> ral+ss657+93t.html
>
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> Erika the Red
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>
>
> > Tire seekers,
> >
> > Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big
> Healeys - Universal
> > Vintage
> > Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
> >
> > www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as charlieoc at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TimWardUK at aol.com  Wed Jul  8 02:59:08 2009
From: TimWardUK at aol.com (TimWardUK at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 04:59:08 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
Message-ID: <c78.5889a97c.3785b9dc@aol.com>

Can anybody tell me why I have not received any Healey Mail from team.net  
since May?
 
Thanks
 
Tim
 
Tim Ward
Warwick House 
12 Mill  Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751

_www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk_ (http://www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk/) 
www.TimWardAssociates.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 03:30:28 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:30:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
In-Reply-To: <c78.5889a97c.3785b9dc@aol.com>
References: <c78.5889a97c.3785b9dc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907080230x4bd36fbi7beb180bc1b0f9e8@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Tim -

Because you are using AOL.  Everyone who is using AOL cannot receive emails
from the list.

The workaround is to set up a Gmail account, sign the Gmail account up to
Team.net, then forward the email from Gmail to your AOL account.  You can
still post from your AOL account (as you surmised).

Or if you are like me, you just switch to Gmail and work with the superior
bulletin board type format which is great for the list.

The list is very active these days, I get at least 15 emails a day from the
list.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 4:59 PM, <TimWardUK at aol.com> wrote:

>  Can anybody tell me why I have not received any Healey Mail from team.netsince May?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> Warwick House
> 12 Mill Road
> Kislingbury
> Northants. NN7 4BB
> Tel: 07855 388 751
>
> www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk <http://www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk/>
> *www.TimWardAssociates.com*

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  8 05:14:48 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 04:14:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] horn repair
Message-ID: <247791.82460.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

had to repair the trafficator now the horn doesn't work how can i test the horns bypassing the horn push

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 06:33:42 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 08:33:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Blue BJ8 at Conclave
In-Reply-To: <2388FB35555E4869A11EB9877FF1647C@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <2388FB35555E4869A11EB9877FF1647C@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <013401c9ffc8$5492aad0$fdb80070$@rr.com>

Norman, I have the contact info and will get in touch with the owner about
your interest.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Norman
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Blue BJ8 at Conclave

Looking to contact the owner of the blue BJ8 (California Plate UBR 128) that
is shown on the Tuesday A&W Cruise Night photo's from Conclave 2009 as I
would
like some information/photographs of the throttle cable linkage.

Is the owner on the list or does anyone have contact details that they could
forward to me?

Thank you.

Norman
59 BN7
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 07:09:51 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 06:09:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] horn repair
In-Reply-To: <247791.82460.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <247791.82460.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A549A9F.8060901@comcast.net>

There's at least 2 terminals on the horns (one or both have 4--to 'jump' to the 
other).  Pull the harness connectors off, and apply 12V to one terminal and 
ground/return to the other (run wires to your battery, or use a separate 12V 
power supply; e.g. battery).  If the horn's OK it will sound.

The horns have 12V power applied--the key might have to be in the 'run' 
position, don't recall for sure--the pushbutton in the trafficator completes the 
circuit to ground, firing the horns.  You can also use a voltmeter to test that 
you have 12V across the pushbutton terminals (if not, power to the horns has 
been interrupted, or your trafficator wiring is incorrect).

Assuming the horns were working before your trafficator repair, I'd suspect the 
wiring in your trafficator.


Bob





john doe wrote:
> had to repair the trafficator now the horn doesn't work how can i test the horns bypassing the horn push

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Jul  8 11:23:28 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 10:23:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
Message-ID: <00ed01c9fff0$cf63d4f0$6e2b7ed0$@com>

I see Harbor freight has a bearing packer, pn 97489-1RGH for $3.99

 

These allow you to use a grease gun to pack the wheel bearing - as long as
the gun has the right type of grease in it.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Wed Jul  8 10:06:09 2009
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (BobsBJ7)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 12:06:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] conclave 2009 photos
In-Reply-To: <3A060FB9-0323-4CF7-A964-7F5E52056D15@mac.com>
References: <3A060FB9-0323-4CF7-A964-7F5E52056D15@mac.com>
Message-ID: <1247069169.7520.3.camel@rob-laptop>

I have posted all the pictures taken by our 4 photograghers at Conclave
at this web address.

	http://picasaweb.google.com/ahconclave

                Bob Slater  Conclave Webmaster    1963 BJ7

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 12:10:07 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 18:10:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <00ed01c9fff0$cf63d4f0$6e2b7ed0$@com>
Message-ID: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO, it's messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly before use or you could be forcing dust and grit into the bearings). Also, disk brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick and sticky for a gun (it's usually sold in tubs). 

Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand. 


Bob 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2009 10:23:28 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings 

I see Harbor freight has a bearing packer, pn 97489-1RGH for $3.99 



These allow you to use a grease gun to pack the wheel bearing - as long as 
the gun has the right type of grease in it. 



-- 



Steve Gerow 

Pasadena, CA, USA 

BN6 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul  8 13:48:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:48:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A54F827.2040908@chello.nl>

Forget all those fancy short cuts. Just take it apart every 2-3 years, 
clean thoroughly, inspect, repack with clean grease, refit. If you are a 
regular driver, once every 5 years will do.
The advantage is that you will have a good idea of the condition of the 
bearings and they will last a lifetime.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Bob Spidell schreef:
> I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO, it's messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly before use or you could be forcing dust and grit into the bearings). Also, disk brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick and sticky for a gun (it's usually sold in tubs). 
>
> Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand. 
>
>
> Bob 
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com> 
> To: healeys at autox.team.net 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2009 10:23:28 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings 
>
> I see Harbor freight has a bearing packer, pn 97489-1RGH for $3.99 
>
>
>
> These allow you to use a grease gun to pack the wheel bearing - as long as 
> the gun has the right type of grease in it. 
>
>
>
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.8/2224 - Release Date: 07/08/09 05:53:00

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Jul  8 15:05:53 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:05:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
Message-ID: <cd6.516ab621.37866431@aol.com>

I have used these and do not like them--they are not that much more  
convenient and deprives one of what I consider to be the satisfying  experience of 
hand-packing the bearing. 
 
Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2009 1:31:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
steveg at abrazosdata.com writes:

I see  Harbor freight has a bearing packer, pn 97489-1RGH for $3.99.

These  allow you to use a grease gun to pack the wheel bearing - as long as
the  gun has the right type of grease in it.

Steve Gerow

Pasadena,  CA, USA

BN6


**************Popular laptop deals plus free shipping! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221917659x1201411421/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.media
plex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D2)

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Wed Jul  8 17:27:42 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 16:27:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ
References: <CAC6477F34614937BFB22E41F0800AB5@PeterPC>
	<ff59076c0907060151x287ff465y4e729fb55922e58c@mail.gmail.com>
	<901797D6F6924FCE9349E8CF18CC2CF6@lyon1>
	<5a607cf80907061621r2b903eb3m6a94db21c3f3880c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17DC29D71FC34625B7658BF2C7E2C267@lyon1>

Right...got it.   Thanks.

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "keith taylor" <ktee20 at gmail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just wondering about OZ


> Because we are fundamentally lazy ,&  anti-Establishment  anything to 
> stick
> it up the Queens English is fair go,
>
> Keith Taylor  OZ
>
> BN1
> BN2
> 100M.....if I ever finish them
>
>
> ,
> 2009/7/7 Douglas Lyon <lyon612 at verizon.net>
>
>> To anyone who knows,
>>
>> Why is Australia sometimes referred to here as "OZ" ???
>>
>> Douglas Lyon
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>> '59 BN7

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 17:31:00 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 18:31:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>

Actually 80 profile is pretty close to "standard" a 165/80 as we have had 
available is pretty close in dimension to the original equipment bias plys 
fitted to early cars, I would think the 185/80 would certainly fill the 
wheel wells up much better than the 185/70 that has been popular (though now 
is hard to find) on big Healeys.  I think a "standard"" aspect ratio may be 
more like 82%, but at 80 you are certainly pretty close.

The T rating is not needed, which I beleive means designed and tested for 
sustained speed up to 118 mph, but would assume that that requires a more 
robust design than and S rated which I beleive is 112, but to lazy too look 
up.

The availability of a reasonably priced 185/80 is a nice alternive for 
Healeys, and a size to my knowledge not availabe for some time, I do agree 
that the tread pattern certainly looks anything but vintage, but other than 
the $140 on up tires from Coker, etc, what does these days?

So thanks for pointing this out, was thinking of sending the info to my 
club.

Greg Lemon
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "John Soderling" 
<bighealey at astound.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> John,  Not really a period looking tire design, and it is a /80 profile - 
> not
> std profile.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/7/09, John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net> wrote:
>
>> From: John Soderling <bighealey at astound.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>> To: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>, "Healey List"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 5:24 PM
>> Or how about this one on sale
>> 185/80-15 FEDERAL SS657 93T  "T" rated and on sale for
>> $45.64 at online tires at
>>
> http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F80-15+feder
> al+ss657+93t.html
>>
>> Vrooom vrooom,
>> John
>> Erika the Red
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
>> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:59 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>>
>>
>> > Tire seekers,
>> >
>> > Just noticed a 'new' 185R15 tire choice for big
>> Healeys - Universal Vintage
>> > Tire shows the Universal Sport - 130mph rated so ok.
>> >
>> > www.universaltire.com - 800233-3827.
>> >
>> > Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Jul  8 17:52:58 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 16:52:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net>

That website doesn't give a lot of real specs on that 185/80 tire,  
but that 80 means 80% of 185. 80% of 165 is a whole different animal.

Basic math gives a diameter of damn near 26.7 inches for a 185/80 tire.

Factory manuals for the Austin Healey list 25.39 as the standard  
diameter.

Wilko
San Diego

On Jul 8, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:

> Actually 80 profile is pretty close to "standard" a 165/80 as we  
> have had available is pretty close in dimension to the original  
> equipment bias plys fitted to early cars, I would think the 185/80  
> would certainly fill the wheel wells up much better than the 185/70  
> that has been popular (though now is hard to find) on big Healeys.   
> I think a "standard"" aspect ratio may be more like 82%, but at 80  
> you are certainly pretty close.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 18:25:14 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:25:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com><2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
	<4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net>
Message-ID: <45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>

I stand corrected, from the handy dandy Miata tire calculator page 
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html I see a 185/70 specs out to about 
25.2" only slightly undersized, perhaps it is the wider lower profile look 
of the 185/70 that makes it look too small in diameter (to my eyes at 
least).

Nice chart here as well, 
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/45_conversionchart.html the 100 had a 
5.90 x 15" close to the
6.00 x 15" listed on the chart, don't know about the later cars.

Happy Healeying

Regards, Greg

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  8 18:44:05 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:44:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
Message-ID: <512604.11214.qm@web110314.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

As info:     The Federal tire in 165x80x15 is new and is used on Healeys: 
available here:  www.hendrixwirewheel.com and other places.  
BRAND: 
FEDERAL    SIZE: 165/80R-15  cost: $80-$100.
DESCRIPTION:  4PLY standard
load SS-657 All season Radial
   Performance/load Index: 420AA 87T  
WIDTH: 6.4 inches  HEIGHT: 25.2 inches  
RIM DIAMETER: 15 inch

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  8 18:53:55 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:53:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey/MG question
Message-ID: <DB1AD251A3ED48E4B9B4F616070CF708@XPS400>

Thanks to everyone for the suggested fix to my Honda van front end vibration
problem.  I had the car in a dealer today and they claim that the front end
all checks out, including balancing the wheels but they did find two "broken"
motor mounts.  I assume that means the rubber inside the mount has separated.
I haven't driven the car yet but with a front wheel drive transverse
engine/transmission setup the engine would vibrate a lot with two broken
mounts and that would transfer to the wheels and steering wheel.  I'll find
out tomorrow when I pick up the car.  And  the good news was that it was
covered under warranty!

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From justbrits at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 19:02:47 2009
From: justbrits at comcast.net (JB@comcast)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 20:02:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907080230x4bd36fbi7beb180bc1b0f9e8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>

<<Hi Tim -

Because you are using AOL.  Everyone who is using AOL cannot receive emails
from the list.>>

Alan  correct, Tim.	What he doesn't tell you is that POS aol is NOT
"playing-by-the-Rules" put out by RFC, the governing body for ALL web-based
email AGAIN.

<<The workaround is to set up a Gmail account,>>

That IS in-correct<G>!!!  As I have said a number of times<sigh> (but will
re-type for a good Brit Gent<G>).   I penned this just yesterday (for a MGs
Team Net Gent)

Worst to "best":

1]    aol
2]    google    &    yahoo
3]    hotmail
4]    msn

<<sign the Gmail account up to Team.net, then forward the email from Gmail
to your AOL account.  You can still post from your AOL account (as you
surmised).>>

WASTE of time IMHO.  Just DUMP POS aol<G>!!  Not that hard to set up an
Account on your box !!

<<Or if you are like me, you just switch to Gmail and work with the superior
bulletin board type format which is great for the list.>>

Same thing again.  Just set up a NEW account using whatever eMail
Client/Program
you use at work<G>/home.  If you need assistance, just PM me.

Ed

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 18:58:44 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:58:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
	<4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net>
	<45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907081758u409ee82cl4fb30c2ebb5425a6@mail.gmail.com>

All -

You are all incorrect except for Greg here.   The 185 15 is a much taller
tire than original, but then again each manufactured tire varies in
measurement.

Longstone tyres in the UK lists all the pertinent measurements for our cars,
and the closest diameter to original Dunlops (look at the top of the list)
are the 185/70s, with the Pirelli 185/70 the closest diameter on the list.
Given that radials compress less than original cross-plys means the Pirelli
will probably maintain the same ride height as the original tires:


http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15

and for 185/15 comparisons you can look here:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185+X+15


You can actually see the various diameters specifically for the Austin
Healey here (as shown on the first link above):

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/Austin-Healey.php
http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/image/healey%20options.jpg

The tire in the middle is the Dunlop.  The tire next to it is the Micheline
180/15, which is a taller tire as well.  My favorite in this bunch is the
one on the far left, the 185/70 by Pirelli.  It's a remake of the Classic
Pirellis available in the 1970s, and the stick and ratings are excellent.
At 98 pound it's not too bad price wise for what it is.  Also for safety
reasons since no one will keep these tires on for more than 5 - 10 years,
the faster wear characteristics of the Pirelli are moot.

Incidentally, i have ordered from Longstone several times.  I don't know how
they do it, but their shipping costs are VERY low.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:25 AM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> I stand corrected, from the handy dandy Miata tire calculator page
> http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html I see a 185/70 specs out to
> about 25.2" only slightly undersized, perhaps it is the wider lower profile
> look of the 185/70 that makes it look too small in diameter (to my eyes at
> least).
>
> Nice chart here as well,
> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/45_conversionchart.html the 100 had
> a 5.90 x 15" close to the
> 6.00 x 15" listed on the chart, don't know about the later cars.
>
> Happy Healeying
>
> Regards, Greg

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:06:06 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:06:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907081758u409ee82cl4fb30c2ebb5425a6@mail.gmail.com>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
	<4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net>
	<45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>
	<ff59076c0907081758u409ee82cl4fb30c2ebb5425a6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907081806p12cd98e3ma62c92dc5bb74c44@mail.gmail.com>

Incidentally, the tire with the closest diameter to original on the list is
the Vredestein 205/70R15:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/productPage.php?productID=1700&categoryFilename=radial.php

Note Vredesteins tend to have a slightly narrower track than advertised, so
this may be closer to a standard 180/70.

You can see this , the width of the Pirelli 185/70/15 is 220 mm at the width
of the Veredestein 205/20/15 is 201!... so this means the Pirelli 185 is
wider than the Vredestein 205!

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/productPage.php?productID=2072&categoryFilename=radial.php

Given all of this, the Veredestein 205 may be the closest tire you can get
out there.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 8:58 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> All -
>
> You are all incorrect except for Greg here.   The 185 15 is a much taller
> tire than original, but then again each manufactured tire varies in
> measurement.
>
> Longstone tyres in the UK lists all the pertinent measurements for our
> cars, and the closest diameter to original Dunlops (look at the top of the
> list) are the 185/70s, with the Pirelli 185/70 the closest diameter on the
> list.  Given that radials compress less than original cross-plys means the
> Pirelli will probably maintain the same ride height as the original tires:
>
>
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15
>
> and for 185/15 comparisons you can look here:
>
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185+X+15
>
>
> You can actually see the various diameters specifically for the Austin
> Healey here (as shown on the first link above):
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/Austin-Healey.php
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/image/healey%20options.jpg

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:11:59 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:11:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] New OEM Late BN1 - BN6 brake drums
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907081811q5ab76a7cyc6d881fb21c0b50@mail.gmail.com>

Hope I didn't ruin anyone's secret plans here, but thought you early AH
owners would like to know these are available OEM new:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200360029644&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1123

Looks like they were centered pretty well...

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:18:16 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:18:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
In-Reply-To: <CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
References: <ff59076c0907080230x4bd36fbi7beb180bc1b0f9e8@mail.gmail.com>
	<CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907081818h5dcde046i6d53c6500aaebaec@mail.gmail.com>

Ed -

Can you show me where I can get one of these msn email accounts?

I already have a Hotmail account so I don't want that, it sucks and the junk
mail filter is rubbish.

Was thinking of switching to msn mail like you have commanded us for the
50th time, but I can't seem to find a link.  Also, does msn do pop email
forwarding?  Gmail does, Yahoo and Hotmail doesn't.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 9:02 AM, JB at comcast <justbrits at comcast.net> wrote:

> <<Hi Tim -
>
> Because you are using AOL.  Everyone who is using AOL cannot receive emails
> from the list.>>
>
> Alan  correct, Tim.     What he doesn't tell you is that POS aol is NOT
> "playing-by-the-Rules" put out by RFC, the governing body for ALL web-based
> email AGAIN.
>
> <<The workaround is to set up a Gmail account,>>
>
> That IS in-correct<G>!!!  As I have said a number of times<sigh> (but will
> re-type for a good Brit Gent<G>).   I penned this just yesterday (for a MGs
> Team Net Gent)
>
> Worst to "best":
>
> 1]    aol
> 2]    google    &    yahoo
> 3]    hotmail
> 4]    msn
>
> <<sign the Gmail account up to Team.net, then forward the email from Gmail
> to your AOL account.  You can still post from your AOL account (as you
> surmised).>>
>
> WASTE of time IMHO.  Just DUMP POS aol<G>!!  Not that hard to set up an
> Account on your box !!
>
> <<Or if you are like me, you just switch to Gmail and work with the
> superior
> bulletin board type format which is great for the list.>>
>
> Same thing again.  Just set up a NEW account using whatever eMail
> Client/Program
> you use at work<G>/home.  If you need assistance, just PM me.
>
> Ed

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:29:12 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:29:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com><2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC><4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net><45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>
	<ff59076c0907081758u409ee82cl4fb30c2ebb5425a6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EDC093D68D904B4F806AEA1AB3068BE1@your4dacd0ea75>

This is all good information, but to be considered also is the wheel width 
that one is using.
In general the 60 spoke wheels are 4.5 inch and 175s are the widest 
recommended .
72 spoke wheels are 5.0 or 5.5 widths and can  accept the 185 widths.

FWIW



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> All -
>
> You are all incorrect except for Greg here.   The 185 15 is a much taller
> tire than original, but then again each manufactured tire varies in
> measurement.
>
> Longstone tyres in the UK lists all the pertinent measurements for our 
> cars,
> and the closest diameter to original Dunlops (look at the top of the list)
> are the 185/70s, with the Pirelli 185/70 the closest diameter on the list.
> Given that radials compress less than original cross-plys means the 
> Pirelli
> will probably maintain the same ride height as the original tires:
>
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15
>
> and for 185/15 comparisons you can look here:
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185+X+15
>
>
> You can actually see the various diameters specifically for the Austin
> Healey here (as shown on the first link above):
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/Austin-Healey.php
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/image/healey%20options.jpg
>
> The tire in the middle is the Dunlop.  The tire next to it is the 
> Micheline
> 180/15, which is a taller tire as well.  My favorite in this bunch is the
> one on the far left, the 185/70 by Pirelli.  It's a remake of the Classic
> Pirellis available in the 1970s, and the stick and ratings are excellent.
> At 98 pound it's not too bad price wise for what it is.  Also for safety
> reasons since no one will keep these tires on for more than 5 - 10 years,
> the faster wear characteristics of the Pirelli are moot.
>
> Incidentally, i have ordered from Longstone several times.  I don't know 
> how
> they do it, but their shipping costs are VERY low.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 20:34:49 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 19:34:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
In-Reply-To: <EDC093D68D904B4F806AEA1AB3068BE1@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com><2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC><4A1B64A2-A891-424A-B427-3E4F3B7AF504@cox.net><45976AA2127E47E6A5C333610C906856@GregPC>
	<ff59076c0907081758u409ee82cl4fb30c2ebb5425a6@mail.gmail.com>
	<EDC093D68D904B4F806AEA1AB3068BE1@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <4A555749.9030600@comcast.net>

re:
"72 spoke wheels are 5.0 or 5.5 widths"


Dayton also makes a 72-spoker with 6-inch rims.  I have them on my BJ8 with 
185/70 Vreds.  They handle well, but I do think the rim is a bit wide.

bs



Dallas Congleton wrote:
> This is all good information, but to be considered also is the wheel 
> width that one is using.
> In general the 60 spoke wheels are 4.5 inch and 175s are the widest 
> recommended .
> 72 spoke wheels are 5.0 or 5.5 widths and can  accept the 185 widths.
> 
> FWIW

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Wed Jul  8 20:48:00 2009
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 19:48:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A555A60.2000504@qwest.net>

What are the gloves for?  I never use 'em...

lol

bob walker
phx, az

Bob Spidell wrote:
> I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO, it's messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly before use or you could be forcing dust and grit into the bearings). Also, disk brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick and sticky for a gun (it's usually sold in tubs). 
>
> Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand. 
>
>
> Bob 
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com> 
> To: healeys at autox.team.net 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2009 10:23:28 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings 
>
> I see Harbor freight has a bearing packer, pn 97489-1RGH for $3.99 
>
>
>
> These allow you to use a grease gun to pack the wheel bearing - as long as 
> the gun has the right type of grease in it. 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 20:52:52 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 19:52:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <4A555A60.2000504@qwest.net>
References: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4A555A60.2000504@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <4A555B84.6000502@comcast.net>

I never wash my hands.


bs


the walkers wrote:
> What are the gloves for?  I never use 'em...
> 
> lol
> 
> bob walker
> phx, az
> 
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO, it's 
>> messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly before use or 
>> you could be forcing dust and grit into the bearings). Also, disk 
>> brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick and sticky for a gun (it's 
>> usually sold in tubs).
>> Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand.
>>
>> Bob


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  8 22:53:44 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:53:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
In-Reply-To: <CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
References: <CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B5739CB4BB244ACCA88F51CC99788D9E@LeonardPCPC>

Quite a shift from Hardtops to IPs.  All this talk about AOL and how 'this' 
IP is better than 'that' IP but I have never heard any negative comments or 
recommendations concerning Earthlink.  I have used Earthlink since January, 
2000, and have not had the problems discussed on this List.  No blocked 
e-mails and no extraneous characters in my text (unless they are my typos). 
Being somewhat computer challenged, I don't know how it is happening but I 
receive very little, if any, junk mail/spam (although I periodically have 
the opportunity to receive humongous amounts of money) in spite of the fact 
that my Earthlink junk e-mail filter support is turned OFF.  My protection 
consists of whatever Earthlink is providing, Zone Alarm's free firewall and 
Webroot's Spysweeper Anti-virus/Anti-spyware program.  Those programs are 
keeping my computer operating in a very satisfactory way.

For those wanting Healey content:  This Mail List is great - and - the 
Healey will be on the road Sunday for a post-Rendezvous meeting in Oakland.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  9 08:10:25 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:10:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
References: <CGEOLIBNCFCCMCPAKEKCCEPACDAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
	<B5739CB4BB244ACCA88F51CC99788D9E@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <E8C28C8AC2CF43CFB1496C350EEB0D55@XPS400>

I second this endorsement of Earthlink.  I have used Earthlink as my service 
provider since they started in business without any complaints about any of 
their services, including email.
Ron Fine 

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 08:25:00 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:25:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...the /ratio.
Message-ID: <893240.68213.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg, Yes - the /70 is the cross section height/width ratio - ie slightly
smaller diameter tire - ie lower rubber height, with a 'fatter' cross section
on the rim.  /lower number = more bloated look.

Think about a modern 245/45/16 tire - it almost looks like a strip of rubber
glued on the rim - the ratio of rubber hight to width is extreme - super
ugly.

In my book the best look for a big healey outside the original cross ply size
is the '185x15' - no/xx.  Fills the wheel well and appears to be designed for
the radius of the fender.  To my eye the 165x15 has the appearance of being
too small, meaning the radius is less concentric with the fender and the gap
between the tire tread and the fender line is too large.  If you do the maths
on the tire radius, you will find that the 185x15 is very close to the
original cross ply specs - I believe it was 5.90x15??

Universal is one option, Vredestein is another.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 7/8/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
> To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>, "Healey List"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, July 8, 2009, 5:25 PM
> I stand corrected, from the handy
> dandy Miata tire calculator page http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
> I see a 185/70 specs out to about 25.2" only slightly
> undersized, perhaps it is the wider lower profile look of
> the 185/70 that makes it look too small in diameter (to my
> eyes at least).
>
> Nice chart here as well,
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/45_conversionchart.html
> the 100 had a 5.90 x 15" close to the
> 6.00 x 15" listed on the chart, don't know about the later
> cars.
>
> Happy Healeying
>
> Regards, Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From amalin at mac.com  Thu Jul  9 08:45:18 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:45:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <4A555B84.6000502@comcast.net>
References: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4A555A60.2000504@qwest.net> <4A555B84.6000502@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5091E88B-997B-4E52-A4BD-3A1BA107E845@mac.com>

I always wash my hands after going to the rest room but I never have  
to use water since they're already wet.

al

On Jul 8, 2009, at 10:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> I never wash my hands.
>
>
> bs
>
>
> the walkers wrote:
>> What are the gloves for?  I never use 'em...
>> lol
>> bob walker
>> phx, az
>> Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO,  
>>> it's messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly  
>>> before use or you could be forcing dust and grit into the  
>>> bearings). Also, disk brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick  
>>> and sticky for a gun (it's usually sold in tubs).
>>> Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand.
>>>
>>> Bob
>
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  9 09:16:57 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:16:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Size Site
In-Reply-To: <893240.68213.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <893240.68213.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8313B0B7-737C-42E0-9C11-8934C8351801@sbcglobal.net>

This is a site we use to compare tires. You just put in the sizes you  
are looking at and you can see the differences.

www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 9, 2009, at 7:25 AM, Robert Blair wrote:

> Greg, Yes - the /70 is the cross section height/width ratio - ie  
> slightly
> smaller diameter tire - ie lower rubber height, with a 'fatter'  
> cross section
> on the rim.  /lower number = more bloated look.
>
> Think about a modern 245/45/16 tire - it almost looks like a strip  
> of rubber
> glued on the rim - the ratio of rubber hight to width is extreme -  
> super
> ugly.
>
> In my book the best look for a big healey outside the original  
> cross ply size
> is the '185x15' - no/xx.  Fills the wheel well and appears to be  
> designed for
> the radius of the fender.  To my eye the 165x15 has the appearance  
> of being
> too small, meaning the radius is less concentric with the fender  
> and the gap
> between the tire tread and the fender line is too large.  If you do  
> the maths
> on the tire radius, you will find that the 185x15 is very close to the
> original cross ply specs - I believe it was 5.90x15??
>
> Universal is one option, Vredestein is another.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 7/8/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>> To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>, "Healey List"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, July 8, 2009, 5:25 PM
>> I stand corrected, from the handy
>> dandy Miata tire calculator page http://www.miata.net/garage/ 
>> tirecalc.html
>> I see a 185/70 specs out to about 25.2" only slightly
>> undersized, perhaps it is the wider lower profile look of
>> the 185/70 that makes it look too small in diameter (to my
>> eyes at least).
>>
>> Nice chart here as well,
> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/45_conversionchart.html
>> the 100 had a 5.90 x 15" close to the
>> 6.00 x 15" listed on the chart, don't know about the later
>> cars.
>>
>> Happy Healeying
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 10:17:05 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:17:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Tire size site
Message-ID: <448160.94277.qm@web110310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Tks, David, that site( http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html ) puts to bed
the discussion of the 185x70x15 being larger and looking better in the
wheelwell; when,in fact, the new 165x80x15 is larger in diameter thus has
to fill better in the wheelwell and is almost 2/3 price to boot compared to
big 'M'. And thus gives slightly more 'overdrive',albeit, 1/2 MPH.
I feel
better already~~~~
Richard

From dthall at btinternet.com  Thu Jul  9 13:00:20 2009
From: dthall at btinternet.com (dthall at btinternet.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 19:00:20 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bighealey.ltd.uk
Message-ID: <43018.61631.qm@web86410.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Can you help?
I am trying to contact Mr David Ward who trades/traded as "Big Healey
Restorations" from a workshop near Newark in Nottinghamshire here in the UK.
If you have any information on his new location or his old residual stock,
would you please contact me off list.
David Hall

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Thu Jul  9 13:03:44 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 12:03:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Proper care of your vinyl/leather
Message-ID: <C67B8D20.316C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I spoke with a very knowledgeable upholstery person the other day about
shrinkage of the vinyl and leather on the car.  The soft top is tight and
does not completely cover the interior parts over the windows on by BJ8, and
the boot cover will not snap in two places.

He told me all vinyl and leather shrinks over time.  He made two
suggestions:  use vinyl or leather conditioner regularly (not Armor-all);
and when car is stored at any time, put the top up.  Keeping it up and
stretched out, with conditioner, will make the car look better when top is
up and keep the threads in a more relaxed state.

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  9 13:42:25 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 12:42:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys]  Proper care of your vinyl/leather
Message-ID: <486836.18263.qm@web110309.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Something I have done many years (25+) after having to replace the front top
bow is to leave the front two top hooks in a loose position (BJ8) and NOT
tight when parked in the garage.  The front wooden top bow had pulled up in
the middle and allowed rain to drip in. By taking the pressure off the bow it
cannot be pulled down on the edges more than the middle and cannot take a
'set'. But lock latches before going down road even tho they are on safety
catch.
Think the edges above the doors would stay more normal also, tho that
wasn't my initial intent. But mine has shrunk side to side and pulled up some
at the door area.
Also, leave the door latchs on 'half latch'. The door latch
position is so the rubber seals will not be deformed and stay like new longer
(this applies to any old car that stays in the garage more than it is
driven).  Also leave both windows down some especially with a car cover for
air circulation to prevent spot mildew on the vinyl.
RD~~~

From bighealey at astound.net  Thu Jul  9 20:00:04 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 19:00:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Actual experience wanted 'New' 185R15 tire choice
 available...
Message-ID: <250BEE5414344ECD95C4BCAF5AC47251@Soderling>

 The Universal 185R15 shows a diameter of 26.5" (don't know the rim width
 used) and most 165R15 have a diameter of 25.4"  for a radius difference of
 0.55".  It'll give one an additional clearance of 1/2" and might rub the
 inner front fender a little at full turn.

 I would be interest to hear from anyone using the 185R15 (80 aspect ratio)
 tires on their six cylinder Austin Healeys if they have any clearance
problems or significant rubbing, or any other down sides to the larger tire.

 Vrooom vrooom,
John

healey> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 4:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
>
>
>> That website doesn't give a lot of real specs on that 185/80 tire,  but 
>> that 80 means 80% of 185. 80% of 165 is a whole different animal.
>>
>> Basic math gives a diameter of damn near 26.7 inches for a 185/80 tire.
>>
>> Factory manuals for the Austin Healey list 25.39 as the standard 
>> diameter.
>>
>> Wilko
>> San Diego
>>
>> On Jul 8, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
>>
>>> Actually 80 profile is pretty close to "standard" a 165/80 as we  have 
>>> had available is pretty close in dimension to the original  equipment 
>>> bias plys fitted to early cars, I would think the 185/80  would 
>>> certainly fill the wheel wells up much better than the 185/70  that has 
>>> been popular (though now is hard to find) on big Healeys.   I think a 
>>> "standard"" aspect ratio may be more like 82%, but at 80  you are 
>>> certainly pretty close.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as bighealey at astound.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From scbronson5 at msn.com  Thu Jul  9 21:56:03 2009
From: scbronson5 at msn.com (Sid  & Maria Bronson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 21:56:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] visors
Message-ID: <BLU133-DAV958100B6AF0E79C4A860C83270@phx.gbl>

I AM TRYING TO FIND A SOURCE FOR A SET OF ATTACHABLE VISORS TO FIT ON THE
TOP RAIL OF A BJ8 WINDSCREEN.  THANKS,    SID     BJ8  27368

From krtaylor at exemail.com.au  Fri Jul 10 00:58:02 2009
From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 16:58:02 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday in OZ
Message-ID: <89C98891DFD54A9AA612FB33D85FE8E6@keith>

A young lass went for an interview at Social Security to up date her payments

Various questions led to how many children do you have

I got 10

Somewhat startled the officer asked for their names

Nathan-Nathan-Nathan-Nathan- Nathan-Nathan-Nathan-Nathan-Nathan & Nathan

Is that not confusing

Yah I yells cum-n-git ya dinner Nathan     Git ta bed Nathan

But how do you address them individually

I use's their Surnames

From medlabinc at msn.com  Thu Jul  9 14:56:22 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 13:56:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Keys
Message-ID: <COL109-DS7B6E0C77D1DB94FEBB566A2260@phx.gbl>

OK.

On which firewall tag and on which side of the tag has the extra ignition key
been found sometimes.

Dick Matson / Bj8

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Thu Jul  9 22:15:07 2009
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 22:15:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Blue BJ8 at Conclave
Message-ID: <B88502C98AC84A31A58DCCE92E08B31E@your4dacd0ea75>

Thank you to all who responded to my request for contact details of the owner
of the Blue BJ8 at Conclave.

This list is a great source of information and contact help.

Norman
59 BN7

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Thu Jul  9 20:54:04 2009
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 19:54:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Packing Front wheel bearings
In-Reply-To: <5091E88B-997B-4E52-A4BD-3A1BA107E845@mac.com>
References: <2027888234.1531841247076607332.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4A555A60.2000504@qwest.net> <4A555B84.6000502@comcast.net>
	<5091E88B-997B-4E52-A4BD-3A1BA107E845@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4A56AD4C.5070806@qwest.net>

Two dudes are at the urinal, one guy finishes and starts to walk out 
without washing his hands.

The dude still pissing says, in a smug, superior tone of voice, very 
loudly, "My mom taught US to wash our hands after going to pee.

To which the guy leaving says, in a more smug and superior tone, and not 
quite as loud, "Well, my mom taught US not to pee all over our hands.

The old classics never die....

bob walker
phx, az





Al Malin wrote:
> I always wash my hands after going to the rest room but I never have 
> to use water since they're already wet.
>
> al
>
> On Jul 8, 2009, at 10:52 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
>> I never wash my hands.
>>
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>> the walkers wrote:
>>> What are the gloves for?  I never use 'em...
>>> lol
>>> bob walker
>>> phx, az
>>> Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>> I've got something similar (it's all metal, with a zerk). IMO, it's 
>>>> messy and wasteful (and you'd better clean it thoroughly before use 
>>>> or you could be forcing dust and grit into the bearings). Also, 
>>>> disk brake wheel bearing grease is a bit thick and sticky for a gun 
>>>> (it's usually sold in tubs).
>>>> Invest instead in disposable nitrile gloves and pack by hand.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thewalkers at qwest.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Fri Jul 10 01:54:38 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:54:38 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <25651D58BCBF4BAEBB3ABD797AFA7225@rowe4323ef3cc5>


From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Thu Jul  9 19:59:22 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 11:59:22 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <B735618E5E4F427FA60938CFFEAE9367@rowe4323ef3cc5>


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 10 02:05:36 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 10:05:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] nice piece of kit
In-Reply-To: <89C98891DFD54A9AA612FB33D85FE8E6@keith>
References: <89C98891DFD54A9AA612FB33D85FE8E6@keith>
Message-ID: <4A56F650.3040206@chello.nl>

Here is some real carburation.

http://cgi.ebay.nl/AUSTIN-HEALEY-TRIPLE-WEBER-KIT-WITH-MANIFOLD-LINKAGE_W0QQitemZ250457993155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a5075afc3&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|293%3A1|294%3A30

Kees Oudesluijs

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 21:24:51 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 11:24:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Plastic Replacement Fuel Pump - BN1 / BN2 ?
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>

All -

I'd like to get one of those semi-generic plastic SU pump copies for my BN1
to carry as a spare in the boot.  Since all my fuel pump connections are
original I don't want to deal with a FACET pump or something like that.

Does anyone know where to get one of these plastic pumps which will fit in
the original pump housing for my BN1?  I recall at one time they were quite
common as that fuel pump was used on lots of LBCs int he 50s.

Thanks,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 14:36:31 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 16:36:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bighealey.ltd.uk
In-Reply-To: <43018.61631.qm@web86410.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <43018.61631.qm@web86410.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0907091336q31938fcepca6326b16e7d8b72@mail.gmail.com>

I had trouble getting my tonneau to fit on my BJ8.   A couple of folks on
this list suggested setting it out in the sun on a hot day.   It's still a
tight fight, but now I can get the tonneau to snap in place.

- Tom


On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 3:00 PM, <dthall at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Can you help?
> I am trying to contact Mr David Ward who trades/traded as "Big Healey
> Restorations" from a workshop near Newark in Nottinghamshire here in the
> UK.
> If you have any information on his new location or his old residual stock,
> would you please contact me off list.
> David Hall
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jul 10 08:39:11 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 07:39:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Question
Message-ID: <8DF8C9809B5740918AC9DFE5C72ECD57@LIFEBOOK>

Hello all,

I'm suddenly having a problem with a very early HP pump on a BN1. Fuel is
literally squirting out a very small (breather?) hole in the side of the
solenoid body with every beat of the diaphragm. Removed the pump and carefully
striped it down expecting a tear in the diaphragm. I can't see one anywhere. I
suspect that must be it anyway.
Comments?

Rich Chrysler

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 10 06:27:20 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:27:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <8DF8C9809B5740918AC9DFE5C72ECD57@LIFEBOOK>
References: <8DF8C9809B5740918AC9DFE5C72ECD57@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4A5733A8.1090306@chello.nl>

Most definite a leak in/around the diaphagm somewhere. Just renew and 
rebuild using a very sparingly amout of sealant.
There should not be any petrol in the solenoid body.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Rich C schreef:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm suddenly having a problem with a very early HP pump on a BN1. Fuel is
> literally squirting out a very small (breather?) hole in the side of the
> solenoid body with every beat of the diaphragm. Removed the pump and carefully
> striped it down expecting a tear in the diaphragm. I can't see one anywhere. I
> suspect that must be it anyway.
> Comments?
>
> Rich Chrysler
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.9/2228 - Release Date: 07/09/09 18:07:00

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Jul 10 06:39:15 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 07:39:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Plastic Replacement Fuel Pump - BN1 / BN2 ?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <64BA471465834E968782522366E6510F@GregPC>

Alan, I put a Facet type on my BN1 with a minimal fuss using the original 
fittings, same size rubber tube will fit over the facet connections and the 
flared metal tube used for the fuel line---had to push the pipes around just 
a little when I did this as a roadside repair, but nothing so great that 
strained any metal or wasn't completely reversible.  Maybe not as tidy as 
you would like for a permanent installation, but perfectly serviceable as a 
temporary fix.

I drove around that way several months until I rebuilt the SU pump and put 
it back on, no problems with the temporary fix or re-install.

Greg Lemon 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 10 07:12:45 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 06:12:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Plastic Replacement Fuel Pump - BN1 / BN2 ?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A573E4D.2060903@comcast.net>

Alan,

Why not carry a spare SU?  Since the List pretty much agrees (non-electronic) 
SUs require regular preventative maintenance, use the swap as your opportunity 
to perform PM on the pump you take out, then keep it for spare.

Probably a $80-100 price premium over the plastic--I've seen them somewhere but 
can't recall--but you save some hassle.  BTW, Moss just had SU pumps on sale (I 
know that helps ;)


Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> All -
> 
> I'd like to get one of those semi-generic plastic SU pump copies for my BN1
> to carry as a spare in the boot.  Since all my fuel pump connections are
> original I don't want to deal with a FACET pump or something like that.
> 
> Does anyone know where to get one of these plastic pumps which will fit in
> the original pump housing for my BN1?  I recall at one time they were quite
> common as that fuel pump was used on lots of LBCs int he 50s.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8


*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Jul 10 07:15:12 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:15:12 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies Revived (Delete if not interested)
Message-ID: <cae.494c0816.378898e0@aol.com>

:
IRISH  VIAGRA
 
An  Irish woman  of advanced age visited  her physician to ask his advice 
on reviving her  husband's libido.
 
'What  about trying Viagra?' asked the doctor.
 
'Not  a chance', she said. 'He won't even take an  aspirin.'
 
'Not  a problem,' replied the doctor. 'Give him an 'Irish Viagra.'  It's 
when you  drop the Viagra tablet into his coffee.  He won't even taste it.  
Give  it a try and call me in a week to let me know how things  went..'
 
It  wasn't a week later when she called the doctor, who directly inquired 
as to her  progress.
 
The  poor dear exclaimed, 'Oh, faith, bejaysus and begorrah!  T'was  
horrid!  Just terrible, doctor!'
 
'Really?  What happened?' asked the doctor.
 
'Well,  I did as you advised and slipped it in his coffee and the effect 
was almost  immediate.  He jumped straight up, with a twinkle in his eye and 
with his  pants a-bulging fiercely!  With one swoop of his arm, he sent me 
cups and  tablecloth flying, ripped me clothes to tatters and took me then and 
there  passionately on the tabletop!  It was a nightmare, I tell you, an 
absolute  nightmare!'
 
'Why  so terrible?' asked the doctor, 'Do you mean the sex your husband 
provided  wasn't good?'
 
'Freakin'  jaysus, 'twas the best sex I've had in 25 years! But  sure as 
I'm sittin' here, I'll never be able to show me face in Starbucks  again!'


 
**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 10 07:27:57 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 06:27:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <8DF8C9809B5740918AC9DFE5C72ECD57@LIFEBOOK>
References: <8DF8C9809B5740918AC9DFE5C72ECD57@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4A5741DD.3030306@comcast.net>

Hi Rich,

re:
"... expecting a tear in the diaphragm. I can't see one anywhere ..."


Maybe the leak is behind/under the metal disk where the diaphragm attaches to 
the throw-over shaft?


Bob



Rich C wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm suddenly having a problem with a very early HP pump on a BN1. Fuel is
> literally squirting out a very small (breather?) hole in the side of the
> solenoid body with every beat of the diaphragm. Removed the pump and carefully
> striped it down expecting a tear in the diaphragm. I can't see one anywhere. I
> suspect that must be it anyway.
> Comments?
> 
> Rich Chrysler

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Fri Jul 10 07:32:07 2009
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:32:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock PLUNGER PIN
Message-ID: <000301ca0162$d27a1780$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Hello All,

Does anyone know where I can find the spring loaded plunger pin in the lock 
barrel. This is the pin that should snap into the outer chrome sleeve 
preventing the barrel from coming out ?

Would a local locksmith have such a pin ?

Thanks,
Jim 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 10 07:42:20 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:42:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Plastic Replacement Fuel Pump - BN1 / BN2 ?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0907092024x52ce343bn6838970c94ae305@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A57453C.40100@chello.nl>

I found one in my boxes of old junk/spares. It has written on it: "Auto 
Pump, made in New Zealand".
It has spade pos and neg terminals.
It should be fitted to a bracket with 2 small bolts.
Fuel lines are fittied using either banjo fittings ur plumbed in lines.
It works like a Lucas fuel pump and also looks a bit like it. It is 
solid state.
I could not find any reference when Googling.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Alan Seigrist schreef:
> All -
>
> I'd like to get one of those semi-generic plastic SU pump copies for my BN1
> to carry as a spare in the boot.  Since all my fuel pump connections are
> original I don't want to deal with a FACET pump or something like that.
>
> Does anyone know where to get one of these plastic pumps which will fit in
> the original pump housing for my BN1?  I recall at one time they were quite
> common as that fuel pump was used on lots of LBCs int he 50s.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.9/2228 - Release Date: 07/09/09 18:07:00

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 10 11:46:52 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 10:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...
References: <616684.71920.qm@web37903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2CB1AE4FD7E14FD2BB59275CEA6FE831@GregPC>
Message-ID: <49414564FFED4418B5F6ED4EF44A7FBE@lyon1>

Original tires on all big Healeys were 5.90/90-15, with a diameter of 
25.62". *   If you translate that original size into the metric lingo of 
current tire sizing that would be 150/90-15.

                        Diameter
185/80-15   =   26.65"
175/80-15   =   26.02"
5.90/90-15  =   25.62"
165/80-15   =   25.39"
155/80-15   =   24.76"

So, as far as tire diameter goes, the 165/80-15 would be the closest fit to 
the original, albeit just a hair smaller.
As for tread width, the 165/80-15 will more closely resemble the original 
tires than will anything wider (while still being 15mm wider than the 
originals).
The 155/80-15 is definately getting too short.

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7


* Courtesy of an old Moss Motors, British Motoring article.



---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "John Soderling" 
<bighealey at astound.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 'New' 185R15 tire choice available...


> Actually 80 profile is pretty close to "standard" a 165/80 as we have had
> available is pretty close in dimension to the original equipment bias plys
> fitted to early cars, I would think the 185/80 would certainly fill the
> wheel wells up much better than the 185/70 that has been popular (though 
> now
> is hard to find) on big Healeys.  I think a "standard"" aspect ratio may 
> be
> more like 82%, but at 80 you are certainly pretty close.
>
>
> Greg Lemon

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Fri Jul 10 15:10:48 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 07:10:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Test
References: <B735618E5E4F427FA60938CFFEAE9367@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<671980.56205.qm@web83914.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42BFB07779DA4113980A12B10C7F44B6@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Thanks Bob
List must have been down for some time. List went very quiet most of
yesterday
They were sent 6 hours apart, reply was the received 4 hours later.Definitely
not on AOL
John
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Brown
  To: John & Kerry Rowe
  Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 9:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test


  John,
  Both of your tests came through the list.
  Bob




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
  To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2009 8:59:22 PM
  Subject: [Healeys] Test






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-



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18:07:00

From grday at btinternet.com  Fri Jul 10 17:20:03 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 00:20:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel or Tire Shake
References: <4A535188.2050302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
	<002901c9ff0a$5393f0d0$fabbd270$@org>
Message-ID: <3112861555FF4F9F901A1A08555E64B5@dell330>

The tyre and wheel may be balanced but the hub and brake parts rotate as 
well.  There are very few fully dynamic machines left that can test when the 
wheel is on an axle as the vibration from the hub etc is normally fairly 
neutral.
Check wheel bearings and suspension bushes.
Have a good look and feel for bulges in the sidewalls and check the tread to 
see if it kinks sideways.
Have someone drive alongside to look at the suspect wheel and tyre to see if 
it is behaving abnormally.
Could it be a driveshaft joint problem you are putting down to wheel shake?

Best of luck,

Guy R Day

From scotyp at comcast.net  Fri Jul 10 18:15:30 2009
From: scotyp at comcast.net (scotyp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 00:15:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
Message-ID: <57073742.275761247271330130.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi John,



A few months ago I ordered some 185/15's from Vredestein and had some issues
with theB right rear wheel well only, the other 3 were OK..B The tire was
contacting the forward mostB point in the wheel well on the fender.B 

It would rub justB  enough to slow the tire down with a good handB spin
...obviously unacceptable. Thought about trying to move the fender by various
means but decided would be cheaper to just return them to

BWW and get the Vred 185/70R15's. I was quite disappointed as I loved the way
the 185/15's looked in the wells. I was running Michelin 185/70R15's before.

My car had a partial off the body restoration in the late 80's and I'm
wondering if that fender was even put backB on correctly.B The door gaps all
seem correct. Since these cars all had the fenders put on by hand at the
factory,B I would be interested to know if others have had this problem with
these tires in that spot. Anyone know what the tolerance range was for the
rear fender placement?

Anyway,you may wish to measureB for this area more carefully than I did.



Cheers,



Scot

'66 BJ8 (Ice Blue)

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 10 18:32:48 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:32:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel or Tire Shake
In-Reply-To: <3112861555FF4F9F901A1A08555E64B5@dell330>
References: <4A535188.2050302@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
	<002901c9ff0a$5393f0d0$fabbd270$@org>
	<3112861555FF4F9F901A1A08555E64B5@dell330>
Message-ID: <209875.14643.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

May be of interest on the Healey 'shake' problems (common problem
corrections):
Healey brake drum out-of-balance:
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/drums.html

Wheel and tire trueing give
results:
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/testimonials.html
________________________________
From: GUY DAY <grday at btinternet.com>
To: Tom
Mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>; Joe and Lenore Armour
<sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>; Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Friday, July 10, 2009 7:20:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel or Tire Shake
The tyre and wheel may be balanced but the hub and brake parts rotate as
well.  There are very few fully dynamic machines left that can test when the
wheel is on an axle as the vibration from the hub etc is normally fairly
neutral.
Check wheel bearings and suspension bushes.
Have a good look and feel
for bulges in the sidewalls and check the tread to see if it kinks sideways.
Have someone drive alongside to look at the suspect wheel and tyre to see if
it is behaving abnormally.
Could it be a driveshaft joint problem you are
putting down to wheel shake?

Best of luck,

Guy R Day
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul 10 21:08:15 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 20:08:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
In-Reply-To: <57073742.275761247271330130.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEDLDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Scot,
I'd be more inclined to think your rear axle isn't aligned properly.

-----Original Message-----
A few months ago I ordered some 185/15's from Vredestein and had some issues
with theB right rear wheel well only, the other 3 were OK..B The tire was
contacting the forward mostB point in the wheel well on the fender.B

It would rub justB  enough to slow the tire down with a good handB spin
...obviously unacceptable. Thought about trying to move the fender by
various
means but decided would be cheaper to just return them to

BWW and get the Vred 185/70R15's. I was quite disappointed as I loved the
way
the 185/15's looked in the wells. I was running Michelin 185/70R15's before.

My car had a partial off the body restoration in the late 80's and I'm
wondering if that fender was even put backB on correctly.B The door gaps all
seem correct. Since these cars all had the fenders put on by hand at the
factory,B I would be interested to know if others have had this problem with
these tires in that spot. Anyone know what the tolerance range was for the
rear fender placement?

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Jul 10 21:18:39 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 03:18:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?healey_tires?=
Message-ID: <20090711031839.28720.qmail@server278.com>

a buddy and i recently put vredstein 185/80-15 tires on a bj8 we were working on.  did not have any problems when we road tested it and have heard no complaints from owner.  he likes the look of the tires and so do i.   hjim

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 10 22:12:53 2009
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 04:12:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] healey tires
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS281F84AD5DE3A1817658ABF240@phx.gbl>

I have them on my BN7, no issues.
Richard of KY
BN7 440
------Original Message------
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] healey tires
Sent: Jul 10, 2009 22:18

a buddy and i recently put vredstein 185/80-15 tires on a bj8 we were working
on.  did not have any problems when we road tested it and have heard no
complaints from owner.  he likes the look of the tires and so do i.   hjim
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>

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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jul 11 03:06:49 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:06:49 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot
Message-ID: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

I am in the process of preparing the BN3/1 for new carpets. 

 

Part of the job is sealing where the gearlever enters through the gearbox
tunnel which in the car consists of 5 separate pieces. The gearbox is 100S,
with gearlever affixed to the gearbox the same way as any side shift.

 

In the past the rubber gearlever boot has just sat there with nothing
holding it and of course the hot air just rushed in. I was fitting a plate I
had made to hold the boot to the tunnel when it occurred to me that for 25
years I have had the gearlever boot (gaiter) upside down - don't laugh!!!!

 

I never realised that the gearlever boot actually stretches and fits over
what is described in my spare parts book as the gearlever cover - that's the
round metal shallow cup.

 

Can anyone confirm that I have been a drongo for quarter of a century and
that it actually does fit over the gearlever cover??

 

Plus in a standard car, is there anything that holds the gearlever boot
(gaiter) to the gearbox tunnel and therefore stops the entry of hot air.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jul 11 03:10:27 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:10:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot
In-Reply-To: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <11358F9F4FDB4E48A3359A0A7B7D5EA6@PatrickQuinnPC>

Whoops!

I should have also asked if there is anything that retains the rubber
gearlever boot to the gearlever cover. It seems perfect for a large clip or
screw clip.

Hoo R oo

Patrick Quinn

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Saturday, 11 July 2009 7:07 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot

G'day

 

I am in the process of preparing the BN3/1 for new carpets. 

 

Part of the job is sealing where the gearlever enters through the gearbox
tunnel which in the car consists of 5 separate pieces. The gearbox is 100S,
with gearlever affixed to the gearbox the same way as any side shift.

 

In the past the rubber gearlever boot has just sat there with nothing
holding it and of course the hot air just rushed in. I was fitting a plate I
had made to hold the boot to the tunnel when it occurred to me that for 25
years I have had the gearlever boot (gaiter) upside down - don't laugh!!!!

 

I never realised that the gearlever boot actually stretches and fits over
what is described in my spare parts book as the gearlever cover - that's the
round metal shallow cup.

 

Can anyone confirm that I have been a drongo for quarter of a century and
that it actually does fit over the gearlever cover??

 

Plus in a standard car, is there anything that holds the gearlever boot
(gaiter) to the gearbox tunnel and therefore stops the entry of hot air.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From TimWardUK at aol.com  Sat Jul 11 03:24:40 2009
From: TimWardUK at aol.com (TimWardUK at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 05:24:40 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] AOL and Team.Net
Message-ID: <d53.50afed18.3789b458@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/07/2009 06:32:46 GMT Daylight Time,  
Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com writes:

Folks, 
Hope this is legible, am  typing from my blackberry. I 'think' I've 
resolved the AOL block issue, should  know within 48 hours. (see below)

Fingers crossed,
Jim  

-----------
Hello,I am contacting you regarding the ticket you  opened with AOL 
concerning an email delivery issue for the IP  166.70.156.34.The block on the IP 
has been removed. Please allow 24-48  business hours for this removal to take 
effect. Also, please set up a Feedback  Loop at our website to manage any 
complaints in the  future.http://postmaster.aol.com/cgi-bin/fbl.pl
-- 
Thank  you,
Sridhar
AOL Postmaster.



Wow!!! After all the denials AOL now finally admit there has been a  block!
 
Strangely I received a mail yesterday telling me that me membership of  
Healey.autox.Team.Net had been suspended for too many bounces and asking me to  
reconfirm. Which I have done. Now I am waiting with eager anticipation to 
see if  AOL does start to let them through again!
 
Tim
Frogeye
BJ8
 
Tim Ward
Warwick House 
12 Mill  Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751

_www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk_ (http://www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk/) 
www.TimWardAssociates.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul 11 09:16:02 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 08:16:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot
References: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<11358F9F4FDB4E48A3359A0A7B7D5EA6@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <8F363100417B4774B1F4DBAAF28C5C08@LIFEBOOK>

Patrick,

The lower smaller diameter portion of the rubber boot fits snugly over the 
round metal gear lever "cup". The upper larger diameter portion of the boot 
has another lip which fits snugly into the round hole of the gearbox cover. 
Finally the carpet with its vinyl bound ring lays over all this. The carpet 
snaps should hold the carpet securely in place.

These pictures are on a BN7 but I believe the arrangement should be the 
same.

Rich Chrysler

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot


> Whoops!
>
> I should have also asked if there is anything that retains the rubber
> gearlever boot to the gearlever cover. It seems perfect for a large clip 
> or
> screw clip.
>
> Hoo R oo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
> Sent: Saturday, 11 July 2009 7:07 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I am in the process of preparing the BN3/1 for new carpets.
>
>
>
> Part of the job is sealing where the gearlever enters through the gearbox
> tunnel which in the car consists of 5 separate pieces. The gearbox is 
> 100S,
> with gearlever affixed to the gearbox the same way as any side shift.
>
>
>
> In the past the rubber gearlever boot has just sat there with nothing
> holding it and of course the hot air just rushed in. I was fitting a plate 
> I
> had made to hold the boot to the tunnel when it occurred to me that for 25
> years I have had the gearlever boot (gaiter) upside down - don't laugh!!!!
>
>
>
> I never realised that the gearlever boot actually stretches and fits over
> what is described in my spare parts book as the gearlever cover - that's 
> the
> round metal shallow cup.
>
>
>
> Can anyone confirm that I have been a drongo for quarter of a century and
> that it actually does fit over the gearlever cover??
>
>
>
> Plus in a standard car, is there anything that holds the gearlever boot
> (gaiter) to the gearbox tunnel and therefore stops the entry of hot air.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Sept.08 204.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Sept.08 187.jpg]

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jul 11 07:24:06 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 09:24:06 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <c96.434e1d38.3789ec76@aol.com>

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823300x1201398714/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)

From bighealey at charter.net  Sat Jul 11 07:42:17 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 06:42:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Test
In-Reply-To: <c96.434e1d38.3789ec76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BB245A4021A14F5B8F7C98AC6F21D4ED@TRACY>

Got it via list

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 6:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Test

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823300x1201398714/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
JulystepsfooterNO62)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From kit at henrymotorsports.com  Sat Jul 11 09:09:30 2009
From: kit at henrymotorsports.com (Kit Henry)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:09:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Last Chance Before E-Bay
Message-ID: <B8DF9834FE9E48EEAFF2F894E81FBE15@henryfce283bea>

1968

Jaguar XKE Roadster



Minor restoration needs to be completed

New style nose, series 1 rear end

All new paint in yellow, professionally done

Complete new Interior (seats, squabs, carpet, console, door panels, dash,
etc.) kit is a OSJI Brand (This is top of the line - formerly Bartlett)
http://www.osji.com/index.php?op=history as is the new Original Specification
top.

All professionally installed

Needs weather strips installed for final door adjustments

4.2 Liter inline 6

Dual carbs rebuilt by professional technician.

Car runs fine, carb linkage still needs tweaking

New heater box

New Battery

New brakes all 4 corners

California car cover

Stored in controlled climate garage

Chrome replaced as needed

Original Wheels in Good Solid Condition



Gold Book Report



      1968 JAGUAR XKE Series I 4.2L
     Dsp/HP
     Eng
     Fair
     Good
     Exc
     Show

     Loan

      CONVERTIBLE 1964-68
     4.2/265
     6C
     35,000
     64,000
     122,000
     140,000
     H
     58,000




Asking 45,000.00  Price Lowered $10,000.00 from last year

Car Located in Bellevue, Ohio

More Photos and Information available



We realize the car needs finishing and have the price set accordingly WILL
DEAL !



Car is in Bellevue, Ohio 44811, = way between Toledo, Ohio, and Cleveland,
Ohio

Just south of Sandusky, Ohio  Cedar Point amusement park.



Kit Henry

419-217-0685

From scotyp at comcast.net  Sat Jul 11 10:32:51 2009
From: scotyp at comcast.net (scotyp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 16:32:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Tires
In-Reply-To: <509928606.401561247329867809.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <197135725.402071247329971836.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: scotyp at comcast.net
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:31:07 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires




Hi Greg,



I thought about fooling with the alignment also but my old rearB tires showed
no unusual wear on them. Also, Since the axle is one solid piece across
wouldn't moving one side aft move the other side forward? The clearance was
fine on the other side. Not sure about that one!



Scot



----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:08:15 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires

Hi Scot,
I'd be more inclined to think your rear axle isn't aligned properly.

-----Original Message-----
A few months ago I ordered some 185/15's from Vredestein and had some issues
with theB right rear wheel well only, the other 3 were OK..B The tire was
contacting the forward mostB point in the wheel well on the fender.B

It would rub justB B enough to slow the tire down with a good handB spin
...obviously unacceptable. Thought about trying to move the fender by
various
means but decided would be cheaper to just return them to

BWW and get the Vred 185/70R15's. I was quite disappointed as I loved the
way
the 185/15's looked in the wells. I was running Michelin 185/70R15's before.

My car had a partial off the body restoration in the late 80's and I'm
wondering if that fender was even put backB on correctly.B The door gaps all
seem correct. Since these cars all had the fenders put on by hand at the
factory,B I would be interested to know if others have had this problem with
these tires in that spot. Anyone know what the tolerance range was for the
rear fender placement?
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as scotyp at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul 11 10:47:19 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 18:47:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Tires
In-Reply-To: <197135725.402071247329971836.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <197135725.402071247329971836.JavaMail.root@sz0134a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A58C217.2060702@chello.nl>

I think that aligning the rear axle dead in the middle was meant. The 
rear axle may be fitted slightly offset to the right. Perhaps bushes are 
not pressed fully home, they may be worn, spring location on axle not 
exact etc.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


scotyp at comcast.net schreef:
> ----- Forwarded Message -----
> From: scotyp at comcast.net
> To: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:31:07 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires
>
>
>
>
> Hi Greg,
>
>
>
> I thought about fooling with the alignment also but my old rearB tires showed
> no unusual wear on them. Also, Since the axle is one solid piece across
> wouldn't moving one side aft move the other side forward? The clearance was
> fine on the other side. Not sure about that one!
>
>
>
> Scot
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:08:15 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires
>
> Hi Scot,
> I'd be more inclined to think your rear axle isn't aligned properly.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> A few months ago I ordered some 185/15's from Vredestein and had some issues
> with theB right rear wheel well only, the other 3 were OK..B The tire was
> contacting the forward mostB point in the wheel well on the fender.B
>
> It would rub justB B enough to slow the tire down with a good handB spin
> ...obviously unacceptable. Thought about trying to move the fender by
> various
> means but decided would be cheaper to just return them to
>
> BWW and get the Vred 185/70R15's. I was quite disappointed as I loved the
> way
> the 185/15's looked in the wells. I was running Michelin 185/70R15's before.
>
> My car had a partial off the body restoration in the late 80's and I'm
> wondering if that fender was even put backB on correctly.B The door gaps all
> seem correct. Since these cars all had the fenders put on by hand at the
> factory,B I would be interested to know if others have had this problem with
> these tires in that spot. Anyone know what the tolerance range was for the
> rear fender placement?
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as scotyp at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul 11 11:29:22 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 13:29:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paging Chris Dimmock
Message-ID: <007601ca024d$2167f980$6437ec80$@rr.com>

Chris, would you contact me, please?
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Sat Jul 11 13:39:32 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 13:39:32 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield and Top Frame Available
Message-ID: <2A5C1BDD8AD041F7A9F22174C2A83310@jackniolfz37if>

I have a brand new, never used widshield available for sale (not OEM) at
$125.00 Plus a used  BJ-7/BJ-8 Top Frame assembly in good condition at
$200.00.  These items are offered to list members before they go on Ebay.
Contact me off list if you are interested.
Jack

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 11 16:51:36 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 18:51:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
Message-ID: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>

The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid 
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models 
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store.

Bob

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 11 17:01:22 2009
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:01:22 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearlever Boot
In-Reply-To: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <26CEEFC015A6472FB5D55279BAC8F9F1@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <5a607cf80907111601l10e5ad9ch124918839fe51846@mail.gmail.com>

Patrick if you kicked off a DRONGO FORUM it would get more hits than
healeys at autox

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL  OZ
BN1
BN2
100M....if I ever finish them

2009/7/11 Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>

> G'day
>
>
>
> I am in the process of preparing the BN3/1 for new carpets.
>
>
>
> Part of the job is sealing where the gearlever enters through the gearbox
> tunnel which in the car consists of 5 separate pieces. The gearbox is 100S,
> with gearlever affixed to the gearbox the same way as any side shift.
>
>
>
> In the past the rubber gearlever boot has just sat there with nothing
> holding it and of course the hot air just rushed in. I was fitting a plate
> I
> had made to hold the boot to the tunnel when it occurred to me that for 25
> years I have had the gearlever boot (gaiter) upside down - don't laugh!!!!
>
>
>
> I never realised that the gearlever boot actually stretches and fits over
> what is described in my spare parts book as the gearlever cover - that's
> the
> round metal shallow cup.
>
>
>
> Can anyone confirm that I have been a drongo for quarter of a century and
> that it actually does fit over the gearlever cover??
>
>
>
> Plus in a standard car, is there anything that holds the gearlever boot
> (gaiter) to the gearbox tunnel and therefore stops the entry of hot air.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey at salisbury.net  Sat Jul 11 17:02:55 2009
From: healey at salisbury.net (healey)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 23:02:55 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] sighting
Message-ID: <200907111902149.SM155677@[66.187.164.86]>

Saw a BRG Healey in Matone Bay on Nova Scotia about noon today, Plate on the
front said TallyHO.?Anybody on the list know who this might be?
Thanks
Carl Brown
1966 BJ8
1959BN6

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jul 11 19:17:42 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 01:17:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?parts?=
Message-ID: <20090712011742.8596.qmail@server278.com>

have some old aluminum door trim.  if someone can use it let me know and i will not toss it out.  needs thorough cleaning.    yours for the shipping cost.   hjim

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sat Jul 11 20:58:04 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 19:58:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Project BN1 3 speed Laygear]
Message-ID: <4A59513C.6000309@pacbell.net>

(Bounced.  Here's a cut down one.  B)

Hi Rich & List,

I thought there would be more discussion about this but perhaps you had 
more off List.  Or maybe I'm one of the few die hards who still love the 
3-speed with overdrive coupled to Lempert gears.

I am surprised that you're starting with the laygear.  I've had two 
boxes break on me and did not damage the laygear either time.  Maybe I 
am just quick to clutch when it goes "Bang".  Both occurred during WOT 
in second (3rd) and broke the teeth adjacent to one of the three oiling 
holes.  That seems to be the weak point.  Please see the attached 
picture which will be stripped for the List.  I've been looking a long 
time for a NOS 1B3697 (which I believe belongs to the gear set you're 
speaking of) because every used one I have found, no matter how good it 
looks, will jump out of gear when backing off.  We even had a Club 
member go to Autojumble during Goodwood and he was almost laughed at. 

I think you might have a much larger market if you first started with 
that gear and then went to the laygear.  I know I would be happy to take 
a couple of them off your hands!

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1M


Rich C wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have been working with a brilliant machinist who is into CNC machining, CAD
> programming, and specializes in gear cutting.
> He's looking for challenges in his business and asked me what's needed. I
> handed him a later BN1 laygear with a shattered 2nd gear (3rd gear
> internally), explaining that this seems to be their weakness and if I had good
> laygears and 2nd gears, I could reassemble a number of BN1 gearboxes and put
> them back into service.
> He happily took this as a personal challenge and has come back to me 4 weeks
> later with quotes and a metallurgy report on the original.
> It seems that the original is very hard, too hard in his opinion, with a
> Rockwell reading of 64 to 66 which is likely why when they let go, they simply
> shatter like glass, taking the other gear with it.
> Anyway, making the complete laygear new is no problem. Machining and
> installing the bronze inserts in each end would be included as part of the
> process.
> Of course as with anything, the more pieces made, the cheaper it will be.
> I am no machinist, but I'll quote what he has said. He gave me 3 prices for
> different hardness qualities.
>   
<SNIP>

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 1B3697 BN1 gear.jpg]

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jul 11 22:06:25 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 04:06:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?signal_light_problem?=
Message-ID: <20090712040625.3377.qmail@server278.com>

i have noticed that on my bn6 when i make a right turn, the dash signal indicator light flashes just a few times before quitting, however the signal lights continue to work.  left turn does not seem to be a problem.  i have a new lucas flasher.  is this some kind of ground problem or do i need to get a new flasher.   hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jul 11 22:13:17 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 04:13:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?decision?=
Message-ID: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>

i need some advice.  i have inherited a bunch of old healey parts, mostly engine and front end stuff.   i have been cleaning it up, sandblasting and refurbishing, etc.  i have an bj8 engine that i need to move from storage and do something with.  i have absolutely no use for another engine.  should i break it up and sell it for parts or rebuild it and try to sell it.  i do not want to be responsible for any work that i do not do, such a machine shop work.  i also would have to hunt up manifolds and carbs.   what thinks the list?    hjim

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 11 22:14:56 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:14:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAMEDPDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

When did they start selling that? I've been using that part for a little
over 4 years. Yes the local parts stores sell them. I bought mine at Kragen.

Cheers,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jul 11 23:56:05 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 13:56:05 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] New Project BN1 3 speed Laygear
In-Reply-To: <3526D8296361418C905265AB222D78A7@LIFEBOOK>
References: <3526D8296361418C905265AB222D78A7@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907112256n7e387b23n21ccc1b1f9969526@mail.gmail.com>

Rich -

Generally I am supportive of this, but the costs involved are pretty steep
for me, as the cost of used boxes aren't all that far off.  I know, I have 5
good spare boxes as back ups for my BN1 and A90!

If it could be done at that price for a complete matched set of gears
(remember, early boxes can't take a partial swap), that might work better.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 12:06 PM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have been working with a brilliant machinist who is into CNC machining,
> CAD
> programming, and specializes in gear cutting.
> He's looking for challenges in his business and asked me what's needed. I
> handed him a later BN1 laygear with a shattered 2nd gear (3rd gear
> internally), explaining that this seems to be their weakness and if I had
> good
> laygears and 2nd gears, I could reassemble a number of BN1 gearboxes and
> put
> them back into service.
> He happily took this as a personal challenge and has come back to me 4
> weeks
> later with quotes and a metallurgy report on the original.
> It seems that the original is very hard, too hard in his opinion, with a
> Rockwell reading of 64 to 66 which is likely why when they let go, they
> simply
> shatter like glass, taking the other gear with it.
> Anyway, making the complete laygear new is no problem. Machining and
> installing the bronze inserts in each end would be included as part of the
> process.
> Of course as with anything, the more pieces made, the cheaper it will be.
> I am no machinist, but I'll quote what he has said. He gave me 3 prices for
> different hardness qualities.
>
> All case hardening to be approx. .020" deep as per original.
>
> He recommends 9310 case hardened where:
> -  5 pieces @  $1576
> -  20 pieces @ $1335
> -  50 pieces @ $1120
>
> Next he quoted 8620 case hardened where:
> - 5 pieces @ $1420
> - 20 pieces @ $1183
> - 50 pieces @ $1034
>
> Last, he quoted 4140 Nitride where:
> 5 pieces @1490
> 20 pieces @1254
> 50 pieces @1105
>
> These can be done as soon as there is an order placed of at least 5 pieces
> minimum. We would ask for 50% up front.
>
> I stated that I would need to run a prototype in a gearbox on the road to
> prove out the product before accepting orders.
> Please note that this would be a duplicate of the later laygear, as applied
> from gearbox 5146, being part number 1B 3693, laygear c/w bushes.
>
> He's now looking into doing the corresponding 2nd gear assembly (3rd gear
> internally)
>
> Interested? Discussion please.
>
> Rich Chrysler
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 00:05:07 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:05:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] decision
In-Reply-To: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907112305i3bc7e54bs8673d243e817af77@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

BJ8 blocks are always in demand.  I'd leave it alone and let the next guy
build it the way he wants.

Out of curiosity, what's the number on the motor?  It might be out of
someone's car and they may want it back.  I know my BJ8 does not have the
original BJ8 motor in it, but a later BJ8 motor.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 12:13 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> i need some advice.  i have inherited a bunch of old healey parts, mostly
> engine and front end stuff.   i have been cleaning it up, sandblasting and
> refurbishing, etc.  i have an bj8 engine that i need to move from storage
> and do something with.  i have absolutely no use for another engine.  should
> i break it up and sell it for parts or rebuild it and try to sell it.  i do
> not want to be responsible for any work that i do not do, such a machine
> shop work.  i also would have to hunt up manifolds and carbs.   what thinks
> the list?    hjim

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Jul 12 00:18:58 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 16:18:58 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] test
References: <431190.36592.qm@web86404.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B81D03DFCF994EA8AEB518D1CE75A5BE@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Sorry David- not over yet though!
I dont think our US friends etc would know what we are talking about
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: D HALL
  To: John & Kerry Rowe
  Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 3:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] test


        John & Kerry
        Thats not fair talking about the Test (1st)
        Regards from England

        David Hall

        --- On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
wrote:


          From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
          Subject: [Healeys] test
          To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
          Date: Friday, 10 July, 2009, 8:54 AM



          _______________________________________________
          Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

          Healeys at autox.team.net
          http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

          You are subscribed as dthall at btinternet.com

          http://www.team.net/archive




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17:57:00

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Jul 12 01:53:34 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:53:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] test
In-Reply-To: <B81D03DFCF994EA8AEB518D1CE75A5BE@rowe4323ef3cc5>
References: <431190.36592.qm@web86404.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<B81D03DFCF994EA8AEB518D1CE75A5BE@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <EEA0CBA00D534029A66A12104DC86443@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day David

Surely it's worthwhile letting everyone know that only rain or a miracle
could stop Australia from winning the first test.

To you blokes who don't understand I am talking about cricket and you should
know the ashes really belong in Australia.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John & Kerry Rowe
Sent: Sunday, 12 July 2009 4:19 PM
To: D HALL
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] test

Sorry David- not over yet though!
I dont think our US friends etc would know what we are talking about
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: D HALL
  To: John & Kerry Rowe
  Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 3:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] test


        John & Kerry
        Thats not fair talking about the Test (1st)
        Regards from England

        David Hall

        --- On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
wrote:


          From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
          Subject: [Healeys] test
          To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
          Date: Friday, 10 July, 2009, 8:54 AM

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 12 05:04:36 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:04:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] decision
References: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <000401ca02e0$8ba8b620$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Me thinks  sell it as is.   Your not bound to any future problems with it, 
its out of your way and some
needy Healey dude has a smile on his face.   Pass it forward.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 12:13 AM
Subject: [Healeys] decision


>i need some advice.  i have inherited a bunch of old healey parts, mostly 
>engine and front end stuff.   i have been cleaning it up, sandblasting and 
>refurbishing, etc.  i have an bj8 engine that i need to move from storage 
>and do something with.  i have absolutely no use for another engine. 
>should i break it up and sell it for parts or rebuild it and try to sell 
>it.  i do not want to be responsible for any work that i do not do, such a 
>machine shop work.  i also would have to hunt up manifolds and carbs. 
>what thinks the list?    hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 12 07:09:32 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:09:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <011001ca02f1$ff68c2b0$fe3a4810$@net>

Also available at:

http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=49052&cat=2,3
,4,5,9


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 6:52 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; ahbn6 at verizon.net
Subject: Brake reservoir gasket

The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store.

Bob

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 07:26:14 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:26:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] decision
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907112305i3bc7e54bs8673d243e817af77@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
	<ff59076c0907112305i3bc7e54bs8673d243e817af77@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000e01ca02f4$55004fc0$ff00ef40$@rr.com>

Jim's spare engine is original to HBJ8L/29104, an Ivory White car with red
trim built 17 - 21 September 1964 and despatched to the USA (Port of Entry
not specified).  Its current location or existence is unknown, and there is
no history on it in the BJ8 registry.

The engine in your car, Alan, came out of HBJ8L/38498, a Healey Blue car
with blue trim built 12 - 13 October 1966 and shipped to San Francisco.  Its
current location or existence is unknown and there is no history on it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 2:05 AM
To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] decision

Jim -

BJ8 blocks are always in demand.  I'd leave it alone and let the next guy
build it the way he wants.

Out of curiosity, what's the number on the motor?  It might be out of
someone's car and they may want it back.  I know my BJ8 does not have the
original BJ8 motor in it, but a later BJ8 motor.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 12:13 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> i need some advice.  i have inherited a bunch of old healey parts, mostly
> engine and front end stuff.   i have been cleaning it up, sandblasting and
> refurbishing, etc.  i have an bj8 engine that i need to move from storage
> and do something with.  i have absolutely no use for another engine.
should
> i break it up and sell it for parts or rebuild it and try to sell it.  i
do
> not want to be responsible for any work that i do not do, such a machine
> shop work.  i also would have to hunt up manifolds and carbs.   what
thinks
> the list?    hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 07:29:01 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:29:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] decision
In-Reply-To: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090712041317.8979.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <000f01ca02f4$b8966420$29c32c60$@rr.com>

I think you should keep the engine intact, Jim.  We know which car it came
out of, and that car might eventually surface somewhere.  I recommend you
try to sell it as is on eBay or Craigslist.  Just let me know what happens
to it so I can keep up with it.

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 12:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] decision

i need some advice.  i have inherited a bunch of old healey parts, mostly
engine and front end stuff.   i have been cleaning it up, sandblasting and
refurbishing, etc.  i have an bj8 engine that i need to move from storage
and do something with.  i have absolutely no use for another engine.  should
i break it up and sell it for parts or rebuild it and try to sell it.  i do
not want to be responsible for any work that i do not do, such a machine
shop work.  i also would have to hunt up manifolds and carbs.   what thinks
the list?    hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 12 07:41:48 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 06:41:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W263C2518423B9CAE1CB63EDB250@phx.gbl>

Can I ask what is the advantages of using this "no splash" seal.

> Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 18:51:36 -0400
> From: rchaskell at earthlink.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; ahbn6 at verizon.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
>
> The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
> reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
> 2004-1987. Might be available at your local auto parts store.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 12 08:30:47 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:30:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
	<BLU144-W263C2518423B9CAE1CB63EDB250@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>

Check out this link:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
To: <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>; <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket


> Can I ask what is the advantages of using this "no splash" seal.

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 12 08:46:07 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:46:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
	<BLU144-W263C2518423B9CAE1CB63EDB250@phx.gbl> 
	<029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W304F34AA80C87EC325F6C5DB250@phx.gbl>

Perfect, thanks for the info.



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

> From: lyon612 at verizon.net
> To: jobu53 at hotmail.com; rchaskell at earthlink.net; healeys at autox.team.net;
ahbn6 at verizon.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
> Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:30:47 -0700
>
> Check out this link:
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
> To: <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>;
<ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
>
>
> > Can I ask what is the advantages of using this "no splash" seal.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 12 08:49:50 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:49:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] parts
References: <20090712011742.8596.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <F1B159A2F0614DADB05E4212974C526F@lyon1>

Hi,

If they're original Healey parts, and in anywhere usable condition, it would 
be a real shame to trash them.
Adveritse your extra parts in the club newsletters????
Just wondering out loud, could all of the clubs offer free classified 
advertising for original, used parts???? (or do they already?), just to 
encourage people to pass along their un-needed parts rather than tossing 
them.

[For some reason, our club's Healey Motor News no longer has a Classifieds 
secton.   Hmmm.]

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 6:17 PM
Subject: [Healeys] parts


> have some old aluminum door trim.  if someone can use it let me know and i 
> will not toss it out.  needs thorough cleaning.    yours for the shipping 
> cost.   hjim

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 12 09:12:04 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:12:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
	<BLU144-W263C2518423B9CAE1CB63EDB250@phx.gbl>
	<029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>
Message-ID: <011701ca0303$1ddedb10$599c9130$@net>

Also stocked at Pep Boys and Advance Auto Parts stores using the part number
42072. Runs about 6 bucks which is cheaper than Moss when you consider
shipping.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Lyon [mailto:lyon612 at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 10:31 AM
To: Dan; rchaskell at earthlink.net; healeys at autox.team.net; ahbn6 at verizon.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket

Check out this link:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
To: <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>; <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket


> Can I ask what is the advantages of using this "no splash" seal.

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Sun Jul 12 10:11:58 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:11:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
Message-ID: <EB2DCD6F11D24610B2470957C6CC4638@AtkinsonPC>

I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
which they can share a photo?

I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some opinions. My
interior is black.

Thanks,

Simon

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 12 10:25:42 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:25:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
Message-ID: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Mike's got a few thousand pics on his website: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
He's a great guy to work with and his craftsmanship is absolutely superb.

Rick


--- On Sun, 7/12/09, Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net> wrote:

From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, July 12, 2009, 12:11 PM

I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
which they can share a photo?

I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some opinions. My
interior is black.

Thanks,

Simon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 12 12:10:12 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:10:12 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl>

Moto-Lita is making similar wheels and some models can be had fairly 
cheaply new on Ebay. May be one is a good replacement for your existing 
wheel. One example of the many from this ebay shop is:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTO-LITA-DERRINGTON-WOODRIM-15-FLAT-STEERING-WHEEL_W0QQitemZ380136803051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5881eb4aeb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1689|293%3A1|294%3A50

I have no financial interest in the firm.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


> Mike's got a few thousand pics on his website: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
> He's a great guy to work with and his craftsmanship is absolutely superb.
>
> Rick
>
>
> --- On Sun, 7/12/09, Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net> wrote:
>
> From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 2009, 12:11 PM
>
> I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
> which they can share a photo?
>
> I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some opinions. My
> interior is black.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.11/2232 - Release Date: 07/11/09 17:56:00

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Jul 12 13:06:07 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 19:06:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl>
References: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl>

I don't think any of the Moto-Lita wheels has the 120 degree spoke layout
originally used in the big Healeys. Anything else just looks wrong.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:10:12 +0200
> From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
>
> Moto-Lita is making similar wheels and some models can be had fairly
> cheaply new on Ebay. May be one is a good replacement for your existing
> wheel. One example of the many from this ebay shop is:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTO-LITA-DERRINGTON-WOODRIM-15-FLAT-STEERING-WHEEL_W0Q
QitemZ380136803051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=i
tem5881eb4aeb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1689|
293%3A1|294%3A50
>
> I have no financial interest in the firm.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
>> Mike's got a few thousand pics on his website:
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
>> He's a great guy to work with and his craftsmanship is absolutely superb.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>> --- On Sun, 7/12/09, Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
wrote:
>>
>> From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sunday, July 12, 2009, 12:11 PM
>>
>> I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
>> which they can share a photo?
>>
>> I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some opinions. My
>> interior is black.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.11/2232 - Release Date: 07/11/09
17:56:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun Jul 12 13:17:44 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:17:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
References: <4A591778.7090408@earthlink.net>
	<BLU144-W263C2518423B9CAE1CB63EDB250@phx.gbl>
	<029B5B6F8E9143A2A1EF3722244D6FDC@lyon1>
	<011701ca0303$1ddedb10$599c9130$@net>
Message-ID: <2195963E73F74C2286D83C726496DAF3@computer>

Gents:

I had one of these gaskets on my BT7 reservoir for a couple of years - got 
it from NAPA - p/n 675-1210.  Looks identical to the one Moss sells - little 
slit on the top, everything.  I say 'had' because I had a really weird 
experience with it:

The clutch m/cyl. developed a fluid leak.  Believe it of not, what started 
to happen was the fluid in the brake (outer) part of the reservoir dropped. 
Before anyone states the obvious - calls me a 'drongo' - that the reservoir 
outlet pipes were reversed, that was absolutely not the case.  It was 
checked multiple times.  For some reason, somehow, the aftermarket gasket 
caused that to happen.  We're still trying to figure that one out!  (when I 
say 'we', a couple of very knowlegeable British car professional mechanics 
were consulted).

So the clutch master cyl. was repaired with a kit, and the original reervoir 
gasket was re-installed -for now.  This was last fall, and the car has not 
been driven much since.

If any of the list members would care to hazard a guess as to why this would 
have happened, take your best shot - we are totally stumped here.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8 

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sun Jul 12 13:46:02 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 12:46:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
In-Reply-To: <2195963E73F74C2286D83C726496DAF3@computer>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEEDDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Earl,
Just curious, if you're stumped with the cause of the leak, how can you
blame the gasket?
Cheers,
Greg

-----Original Message-----
Gents:

 The clutch m/cyl. developed a fluid leak.  Believe it of not, what started
to happen was the fluid in the brake (outer) part of the reservoir dropped.
Before anyone states the obvious - calls me a 'drongo' - that the reservoir
outlet pipes were reversed, that was absolutely not the case.  It was
checked multiple times.  For some reason, somehow, the aftermarket gasket
caused that to happen.  We're still trying to figure that one out!  (when I
say 'we', a couple of very knowlegeable British car professional mechanics
were consulted).

So the clutch master cyl. was repaired with a kit, and the original reervoir
gasket was re-installed -for now.  This was last fall, and the car has not
been driven much since.

If any of the list members would care to hazard a guess as to why this would
have happened, take your best shot - we are totally stumped here.

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Jul 12 14:23:15 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 06:23:15 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cricket test
References: <565586.11110.qm@web86412.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F6D9C48F7EFC496D8AF7C15F8C415E8F@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Hi David
Didnt need rain- Monty did it for them- I thought the tail might wag
Cheers
John
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: D HALL
  To: John & Kerry Rowe
  Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] test


        John & Kerry
        Does not look like rain will save the day.
        Float the "cricket" and lets see if the other half of the world have
any thoughts !
        Regards David

        David Hall


                   On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe
<jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:




                    _____________________________________________



--------------------------------------------------------------------

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 12 14:24:05 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 22:24:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl>
References: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl>
	<BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A5A4665.7020401@chello.nl>

They also have the120 degree spok, see www.motolita.co.uk
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

WILLIAM B LAWRENCE schreef:
> I don't think any of the Moto-Lita wheels has the 120 degree spoke 
> layout originally used in the big Healeys. Anything else just looks 
> wrong.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:10:12 +0200
> > From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
> > To: healeyrick at yahoo.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
> >
> > Moto-Lita is making similar wheels and some models can be had fairly
> > cheaply new on Ebay. May be one is a good replacement for your existing
> > wheel. One example of the many from this ebay shop is:
> >
> > 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTO-LITA-DERRINGTON-WOODRIM-15-FLAT-STEERING-WHEEL_W0QQitemZ380136803051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5881eb4aeb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1689|293%3A1|294%3A50
> >
> > I have no financial interest in the firm.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> >
> >> Mike's got a few thousand pics on his website: 
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels
> >> He's a great guy to work with and his craftsmanship is absolutely 
> superb.
> >>
> >> Rick
> >>
> >>
> >> --- On Sun, 7/12/09, Simon & Christine Atkinson 
> <satkinson7314 at charter.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Sunday, July 12, 2009, 12:11 PM
> >>
> >> I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
> >> which they can share a photo?
> >>
> >> I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some 
> opinions. My
> >> interior is black.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Simon
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.11/2232 - Release Date: 
> 07/11/09 17:56:00
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
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> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.11/2232 - Release Date: 07/11/09 17:56:00

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun Jul 12 15:12:44 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:12:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
References: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEEDDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <404ED10F39F540A7A059D91E284D57FF@computer>

Greg:

Sorry I wasn't clearer - the leak in the clutch slave was from normal 
causes - 17 years and about 50K miles of wear on the seal - not caused in 
any way that I could see by the aftermarket reservoir gasket.

The siphoning of brake fluid from the outer (brake) section of the reservoir 
to the centre (clutch) section - (and then of course all over the bottom of 
the car!) - is what has us stumped.  We feel it could only have been caused 
by the use of the modified gasket, but we have no clue as to how or why.  It 
seems to be impossible.

Earl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket


Hi Earl,
Just curious, if you're stumped with the cause of the leak, how can you
blame the gasket?
Cheers,
Greg

-----Original Message-----
Gents:

 The clutch m/cyl. developed a fluid leak.  Believe it of not, what started
to happen was the fluid in the brake (outer) part of the reservoir dropped.
Before anyone states the obvious - calls me a 'drongo' - that the reservoir
outlet pipes were reversed, that was absolutely not the case.  It was
checked multiple times.  For some reason, somehow, the aftermarket gasket
caused that to happen.  We're still trying to figure that one out!  (when I
say 'we', a couple of very knowlegeable British car professional mechanics
were consulted).

So the clutch master cyl. was repaired with a kit, and the original reervoir
gasket was re-installed -for now.  This was last fall, and the car has not
been driven much since.

If any of the list members would care to hazard a guess as to why this would
have happened, take your best shot - we are totally stumped here.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 16:47:28 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:47:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Free to a good home 100 Side Curtains
In-Reply-To: <404ED10F39F540A7A059D91E284D57FF@computer>
References: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEEDDPAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
	<404ED10F39F540A7A059D91E284D57FF@computer>
Message-ID: <DE5BF49F085E4DA79192B2C5F61B752C@GregPC>

I got a set when I got my 100 ten years ago, they look to be very much 
homemade, they are old and ugly, they do however, keep the weather out after 
a fashion, so if you want a set and like me, you don't really drive around 
much except with the top down but want a set just in case, I will send for 
the price of shipping, which I would guess to be about $15 here in the 
continental USA.

Don't want to send pics or mess around just offering them to the list as an 
alternative to storing or pitching them.

Happy Healying,

Greg Lemon


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags at shaw.ca>
To: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>; "Healey List" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket


> Greg:
>
> Sorry I wasn't clearer - the leak in the clutch slave was from normal
> causes - 17 years and about 50K miles of wear on the seal - not caused in
> any way that I could see by the aftermarket reservoir gasket.
>
> The siphoning of brake fluid from the outer (brake) section of the 
> reservoir
> to the centre (clutch) section - (and then of course all over the bottom 
> of
> the car!) - is what has us stumped.  We feel it could only have been 
> caused
> by the use of the modified gasket, but we have no clue as to how or why. 
> It
> seems to be impossible.
>
> Earl
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
>
>
> Hi Earl,
> Just curious, if you're stumped with the cause of the leak, how can you
> blame the gasket?
> Cheers,
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Gents:
>
> The clutch m/cyl. developed a fluid leak.  Believe it of not, what started
> to happen was the fluid in the brake (outer) part of the reservoir 
> dropped.
> Before anyone states the obvious - calls me a 'drongo' - that the 
> reservoir
> outlet pipes were reversed, that was absolutely not the case.  It was
> checked multiple times.  For some reason, somehow, the aftermarket gasket
> caused that to happen.  We're still trying to figure that one out!  (when 
> I
> say 'we', a couple of very knowlegeable British car professional mechanics
> were consulted).
>
> So the clutch master cyl. was repaired with a kit, and the original 
> reervoir
> gasket was re-installed -for now.  This was last fall, and the car has not
> been driven much since.
>
> If any of the list members would care to hazard a guess as to why this 
> would
> have happened, take your best shot - we are totally stumped here.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Sun Jul 12 18:31:07 2009
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (BobsBJ7)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:31:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Pictures
Message-ID: <1247445067.6425.13.camel@rob-laptop>

Hi Everyone

    I am the process of uploading many pictures from Conclave. I have
already uploaded them to Picasa in a smaller file format at this web
address,

	http://picasaweb.google.com/ahconclave

There are also fairly high definition copy's at this web address  ( I
still have 2 more files to upload so 2 of the links on this page will
not work until the pictures are there ).Instructions are at 

	www.conclave09.com

on how to download and print on your computor. 

	http://s841.photobucket.com/albums/zz336/BJ7healey/


	Also these links can be found from

           www.conclave09.com

       and www.ahcso.com

            Bob     Conclave 09 Webmaster         

       any questions contact me    at      rob at acanac.net

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 20:08:37 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:08:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Another Austin-Healey in movie
In-Reply-To: <41670.53324.qm@web110204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <41670.53324.qm@web110204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0907121908p41c58f34qddda1db3f9a6177f@mail.gmail.com>

I just saw the movie and its there.  Did you find the location.

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Bert Van Brande<bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Hi,
>
> For those with young teens going to see the Disney movie 'Race to Witch
Mountain'  there is a couple of shots with a glimpse of a dusty (rusty?) late
model 6 cyl Austin-Healey.  I believe a BJ8 but I can be wrong.  It's a night
scene in a dark old shabby garage (to which the Healey contributes I must
admit) and I believe I know where this location is in SoCal.  I'll update when
I can confirm.
>
> cheers,
>
> Bert

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Jul 13 02:45:47 2009
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:45:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers
Message-ID: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D10@dw01.ruda.local>

Were are the 1" square spacers on  the "asbestos" heat shield on the BN2
used:

On all pieces?
No spacers at all?
Only on the shield above the muffler?



Were can I get the big washers with only a 3/16" center hole which are
used to attach the heat shield to the body?



Thanks





Thomas Willig

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Jul 13 02:52:41 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:52:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chemical/gel filled battery issue.
Message-ID: <000001ca0397$49ab0450$dd010cf0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

An (elderly one-legged) friend of mine has an electric buggy with which he
can get around our village and achieve a degree of mobility. He left it
switched on for about 3 weeks and totally drained its batteries. Now they
won't accept a charge and he's facing having to replace them and - because
the batteries are probably only obtainable through the buggy's agent - he
will have to pay about six times what they are worth.
They are sealed batteries. Not electrolyte and plate per a traditional car
and I gathered that they are filled with some form of vile gel. They sound
to be much like the batteries that I acquaint with boats....
So, moving on, I recall that someone on this list explained how similar
batteries could be revived despite their being "written off" by most
sources. Of course, I wasn't interested then and did not retain the
information......Can anyone advise?
Thanks, Simon.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 03:14:45 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 17:14:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chemical/gel filled battery issue.
In-Reply-To: <-2548432352931682775@unknownmsgid>
References: <-2548432352931682775@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907130214v2cebcacdr83e44211c0d9a00a@mail.gmail.com>

Simon -

The trick is to attach the battery in parallel with a standard lead
acid battery, then attach a slow-ish charger (not trickle, I think
about 2amp) and attach the charger to the lead acid battery.  After 12
to 24 hours the Gel battery should be fully charged.

Alan

On 7/13/09, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> An (elderly one-legged) friend of mine has an electric buggy with which he
> can get around our village and achieve a degree of mobility. He left it
> switched on for about 3 weeks and totally drained its batteries. Now they
> won't accept a charge and he's facing having to replace them and - because
> the batteries are probably only obtainable through the buggy's agent - he
> will have to pay about six times what they are worth.
> They are sealed batteries. Not electrolyte and plate per a traditional car
> and I gathered that they are filled with some form of vile gel. They sound
> to be much like the batteries that I acquaint with boats....
> So, moving on, I recall that someone on this list explained how similar
> batteries could be revived despite their being "written off" by most
> sources. Of course, I wasn't interested then and did not retain the
> information......Can anyone advise?
> Thanks, Simon.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rkorn at simnet.is  Mon Jul 13 03:20:14 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 09:20:14 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers
References: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D10@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <5E79844A7B1D4055A845FAD5E17FAB73@velad>

Thomas,

On my BN2 all of the original asbestos is still in place and the washers are 
all round. 2 on each of the 2 panels where the pedals come out  and the same 
on the next panels above.I don4t have the size but can measure them when I 
get back to the states in 2 weeks if someone else doesn4t answer first.

Richard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig at ruda.de>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 8:45 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers


> Were are the 1" square spacers on  the "asbestos" heat shield on the BN2
> used:
>
> On all pieces?
> No spacers at all?
> Only on the shield above the muffler?
>
>
>
> Were can I get the big washers with only a 3/16" center hole which are
> used to attach the heat shield to the body?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of asb footwells+ 008.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of asb footwells+ 006.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of asb footwells+ 011.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Jul 13 08:56:59 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:56:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers
References: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D10@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <92E4554C7FC94D15874CD588ED445685@LIFEBOOK>

Thomas,

All insulating panels on all Hundreds were installed flat against the metal 
with no spacers. The 1" square stand-offs were not installed until the MK 2 
3000's.

In addition, there was no insulating panel originally under the floor above 
the muffler on any Hundreds.

The large washers that come in the popular commercial kits have the right 
i.d and o.d. but are too thin. Clarke Spares & Restorations 
ClarkeSpares at worldnet.att.net
have just tooled up to produce these washers with the correct thickness.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig at ruda.de>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:45 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers


> Were are the 1" square spacers on  the "asbestos" heat shield on the BN2
> used:
>
> On all pieces?
> No spacers at all?
> Only on the shield above the muffler?
>  Where can I get the big washers with only a 3/16" center hole which are
> used to attach the heat shield to the body?
> Thanks
>  Thomas Willig

From dthall at btinternet.com  Mon Jul 13 06:57:57 2009
From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:57:57 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Cricket test
Message-ID: <375799.86238.qm@web86407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

John
Having to understand short leg, silly mid on, deep extra cover, slip and a
googlyB makes "whos on first" appear simple.
Regards David
David Hall

--- On Sun, 12/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:


From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Cricket test
To: "D HALL" <dthall at btinternet.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, 12 July, 2009, 9:23 PM


o;?


Hi David
Didnt need rain- Monty did it for them- I thought the tail might wag
Cheers
John

----- Original Message -----
From: D HALL
To: John & Kerry Rowe
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] test






John & Kerry
Does not look like rain will save the day.
Float the "cricket" and lets see if the other half of the world have any
thoughts !
Regards David

David Hall









B On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:




_____________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 07:15:33 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 06:15:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Footwell Heat shield 100 BN2 -spacers and washers
In-Reply-To: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D10@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D10@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <4A5B3375.7010602@comcast.net>

We're restoring a BN2/100M.  I didn't see any evidence of any spacers anywhere 
when we disassembled the car.  I believe the 100s did not originally have a heat 
shield above the muffler (ours had no shield, holes or captive nuts).  The Moss 
catalog confirms this (FWIW).  We may add one.

I haven't found the thick washers anywhere.  We're short one or two, and if we 
can't find them there are fender washers that are too thin but otherwise 
dimensionally very close.  Two of them stacked are close to one thick washer in 
thickness.


Bob



Thomas Willig wrote:
> Were are the 1" square spacers on  the "asbestos" heat shield on the BN2
> used:
> 
> On all pieces?
> No spacers at all?
> Only on the shield above the muffler?
> 
> 
> 
> Were can I get the big washers with only a 3/16" center hole which are
> used to attach the heat shield to the body?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thomas Willig


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Mon Jul 13 08:00:13 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 00:00:13 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Rocker Covers
Message-ID: <4A5B3DED.6080202@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

By coincidence I found a document I have from the;
 'Donald Healey Motor Company Ltd.'  that lists 'Austin-Healey '100',
 'Additional Equipment Available.'

Chromium plated rocker cover and Chromium plated air cleaners.  ( Price 
the three items on exchange basis)   UK 4 pound and  4 shillings.

Remember The Healey Family held a unique position. They owned the design 
of the cars, they developed the concept of the next model, they were 
paid to promote Healey Marque thro racing,they were a recognised 
distributor of the Austin models ( focusing on the sports car range )  
and had exclusive rights to sell Healeys to the U.S. occupied English 
air bases.  Also there was a seperate company selling Healey Speed 
Equipment. Austin managed and paid for the manufacture of the cars and 
controlled their distribution.

Therefore the question arises, was the above mentioned 'Additional 
Equipment' Factory ( Austin ) listed and fitted or was it a dealer 
option. Is a list from a Seller a standard Factory Option?

The list I refer has approx. 36  ' Additional Equipment ' items.   At 
this period of time in Australia at least there were two seperate 
distribution and sales organisations and not all Austin Dealers were 
Healey sellers.

So what is 'Factory' ?

Joe

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 08:15:35 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:15:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Simon Lachlan : Battery Discharge
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907130715v7a5e3d87v4d79bf4c15fc159f@mail.gmail.com>

Simon -

Here's more detailed information from the charging procedure for these
batteries, which I found in my archive.  This is more detailed than my
procedure, and more likely better.  I guess a 10 amp charger is fine.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimas
To: Editorgary at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net


The following is taken directly from a reply I got from Optima tech
department regarding charging Optima batteries:


It is likely that your battery only need to be charged.  If your battery has
been discharged below 10.5v, most chargers will not charge any battery
unless you use a procedure different than what one would typically use.
Please read and try the following:

A deeply discharged Optima Battery (less than 10.5 volts) will not test or
recharge properly if treated as a regular flooded battery or Gel battery.
Most of the time a handheld electronic battery tester will provide
inaccurate test results.

One of the best performance benefits to using an AGM battery is the fact
that they have low internal resistance. Since this low internal resistance
will allow AGM batteries to discharge to a lower voltage than conventional
batteries, they can have compatibility issues with many of the older but
common battery chargers.  In addition, If any battery has rested in a
discharged condition, sulfation has occurred and we need to convert this
back into electrolyte.  We need to "trick" the charger into thinking it is a
recoverable battery. The solution is actually quite simple.

Before hooking up your traditional automatic battery charger to the AGM
battery, take any  automotive battery (anyone will do with decent voltage,
12V or above) and wire it in parallel (positive to positive, negative to
negative) with the discharged AGM. Now hook up the charger to the
conventional battery, set the charger at up to but no more than 10 amps. The
charger will now "see" the resistance and voltage of the conventional
battery and it will start providing a charge. Leave the two batteries hooked
up for an hour or so. Check the AGM each hour to see when it reaches 10.5
volts or above and then you can remove the traditional battery. Continue
charging the AGM until it reaches a full charge or until the automatic
charger completes the charge process.

In most cases the AGM battery will be recovered. During the charging process
if the AGM battery gets slightly warm that's OK.  Hot to the touch is not OK
and this method should be discontinued.


Ron

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 08:18:18 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:18:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <M+x7XPCUMaUKFwRG@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
	<751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
	<M+x7XPCUMaUKFwRG@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>

John

I believe this option to be rare in that I've only seen two over the years.
It would be nice to hear from others on the list who may have or have seen
this chrome valve cover and/or air cleaners on the 100.

Curt

On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:09 AM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>
> Curt
>
> For what it is worth I would have thought that the chromed air cleaners and
> chromed rocker cover combination on a 100 was rare. The examples I have seen
> had the H6 carburettors and early cold air box when a chromed rocker cover
> were fitted. What do others think?
>
> Regards
>
>
>> The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange
>> basis
>> along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned about
>> the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Hello All,
>>>
>>> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
>>> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>>>
>>> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or just
>>> for
>>> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
>>> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
>>> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
>>> Healey Motor Co. ?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jim
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/05/09
>> 05:53:00
>>
>
> --
> John Harper

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 08:21:56 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:21:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Rocker Covers
In-Reply-To: <4A5B3DED.6080202@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
References: <4A5B3DED.6080202@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907130721y47eb5a7cueb0d5629034ac9b7@mail.gmail.com>

Joe -

Generally speaking I think most Concours judges accept anything as "factory"
as any configuration you were able to purchase a car from the dealer when
new.  If there were dealer modifications (such are red coves on a white car)
then I think this is considered okay as long as you have documentation
proving that this is how the dealer supplied the car to the buyer.  If it's
a standard "factory" option, then anything goes.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 10:00 PM, Joe and Lenore Armour <
sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> By coincidence I found a document I have from the;
> 'Donald Healey Motor Company Ltd.'  that lists 'Austin-Healey '100',
> 'Additional Equipment Available.'
>
> Chromium plated rocker cover and Chromium plated air cleaners.  ( Price the
> three items on exchange basis)   UK 4 pound and  4 shillings.
>
> Remember The Healey Family held a unique position. They owned the design of
> the cars, they developed the concept of the next model, they were paid to
> promote Healey Marque thro racing,they were a recognised distributor of the
> Austin models ( focusing on the sports car range )  and had exclusive rights
> to sell Healeys to the U.S. occupied English air bases.  Also there was a
> seperate company selling Healey Speed Equipment. Austin managed and paid for
> the manufacture of the cars and controlled their distribution.
>
> Therefore the question arises, was the above mentioned 'Additional
> Equipment' Factory ( Austin ) listed and fitted or was it a dealer option.
> Is a list from a Seller a standard Factory Option?
>
> The list I refer has approx. 36  ' Additional Equipment ' items.   At this
> period of time in Australia at least there were two seperate distribution
> and sales organisations and not all Austin Dealers were Healey sellers.
>
> So what is 'Factory' ?
>
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 08:25:19 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:25:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Rocker Covers
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907130721y47eb5a7cueb0d5629034ac9b7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A5B3DED.6080202@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
	<ff59076c0907130721y47eb5a7cueb0d5629034ac9b7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <751d05480907130725s183a0bfaqf9022b3a90335ad2@mail.gmail.com>

Alan

This would be an accurate statement.

Curt Arndt

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 7:21 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Joe -
>
> Generally speaking I think most Concours judges accept anything as
> "factory"
> as any configuration you were able to purchase a car from the dealer when
> new.  If there were dealer modifications (such are red coves on a white
> car)
> then I think this is considered okay as long as you have documentation
> proving that this is how the dealer supplied the car to the buyer.  If it's
> a standard "factory" option, then anything goes.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 10:00 PM, Joe and Lenore Armour <
> sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:
>
> > By coincidence I found a document I have from the;
> > 'Donald Healey Motor Company Ltd.'  that lists 'Austin-Healey '100',
> > 'Additional Equipment Available.'
> >
> > Chromium plated rocker cover and Chromium plated air cleaners.  ( Price
> the
> > three items on exchange basis)   UK 4 pound and  4 shillings.
> >
> > Remember The Healey Family held a unique position. They owned the design
> of
> > the cars, they developed the concept of the next model, they were paid to
> > promote Healey Marque thro racing,they were a recognised distributor of
> the
> > Austin models ( focusing on the sports car range )  and had exclusive
> rights
> > to sell Healeys to the U.S. occupied English air bases.  Also there was a
> > seperate company selling Healey Speed Equipment. Austin managed and paid
> for
> > the manufacture of the cars and controlled their distribution.
> >
> > Therefore the question arises, was the above mentioned 'Additional
> > Equipment' Factory ( Austin ) listed and fitted or was it a dealer
> option.
> > Is a list from a Seller a standard Factory Option?
> >
> > The list I refer has approx. 36  ' Additional Equipment ' items.   At
> this
> > period of time in Australia at least there were two seperate distribution
> > and sales organisations and not all Austin Dealers were Healey sellers.
> >
> > So what is 'Factory' ?
> >
> > Joe
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From buhler at memphisassociates.com  Mon Jul 13 08:28:40 2009
From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:28:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
Message-ID: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>

Fellows, this weekend when I was backing my 67 3000 out of the garage, the
left rear brake locked up.  When I drove forward, it released but locked up
again in reverse.  The hand brake had not been on and I had not used the foot
brake prior to this happening.  Your thougnts please.

Thanks,

Jon

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 08:36:42 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:36:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>
References: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907130736s757e2699u2b37fd37e7e183df@mail.gmail.com>

John -
The rear brakes have a leading and a trailing shoe, so one shoe brakes best
going forward, and the other brakes best going backwards.  It sounds to me
like your trailing shoe might be loose or the brake springs are old or maybe
hung up on something inside the brakes.  The only thing to do is to take the
drum off and inspect it.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 10:28 PM, Jon Buhler
<buhler at memphisassociates.com>wrote:

> Fellows, this weekend when I was backing my 67 3000 out of the garage, the
> left rear brake locked up.  When I drove forward, it released but locked up
> again in reverse.  The hand brake had not been on and I had not used the
> foot
> brake prior to this happening.  Your thougnts please.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
> _____

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Mon Jul 13 09:04:04 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:04:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Code for BJ8
Message-ID: <29598148.1247497444348.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi,

what are the correct AEC cast codes for BJ8 front and rear exhaust manifolds?  Are there more than for BJ8s and if so, what are they?

Word is that if I convert HD6s to HD8s, I have to have the corresponding exhaust manifolds too?  I have the HD8s and intake manifold refurbished and rebuilt already.  Any advice on this conversion?

TIA

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 13 09:09:07 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:09:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>
References: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W212D7B2A0F16EE07BAF21DB220@phx.gbl>

Jon,

  I had this happen a few years ago and the wheel cylinder was bad. I replaced
and everything was fine.



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

> Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:28:40 -0400
> From: buhler at memphisassociates.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
>
> Fellows, this weekend when I was backing my 67 3000 out of the garage, the
> left rear brake locked up. When I drove forward, it released but locked up
> again in reverse. The hand brake had not been on and I had not used the
foot
> brake prior to this happening. Your thougnts please.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jul 13 09:22:46 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:22:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?contact?=
Message-ID: <20090713152246.22118.qmail@server278.com>

ed santaro, contact me off list.  your address keeps getting bounced.  healeymanjim

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Mon Jul 13 09:32:14 2009
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:32:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir gasket
Message-ID: <4A5B537E.5040502@cox.net>

Earl,


The gasket could be applying some pressure on the internal can when the reservoir cap is tightened down causing a less than perfect seal at the bottom to occur.  So when the clutch fluid dropped, the outside fluid leaked into the center can area (less than perfect seal on the alum. gasket under the center can or split in the can soldering).

Or maybe there is some capillary/vacuum action going on with the gasket dropping down and touching the rim of the inside can. Vacuum created as the clutch fluid level drops and splashing and/or capillary action with the outside brake fluid.

I sealed the little slit on the gasket with a dab of RTV gasket maker before installing mine (Dave Russell first tried this and didn't see a need for the system to be vented as many modern brake systems are not vented). Somehow a little bit of brake fluid still gets into the top area of the gasket (between gasket and reservoir top) so think there is some capillary/vacuum action going on.

Cheers,
John

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Jul 13 10:07:41 2009
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:07:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys]  Lempert Wheels
Message-ID: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D1B@dw01.ruda.local>

I bought a 100S replica wheel (the one from the 1955 Le Mans car) from
Mike Lempert last year. Absolutely perfect! He can make the wheels to
order, that means you can chose the type of wood used on your wheel. He
even followed my wishes (even with slight hesitation) not to polish the
wheel to much and to leave some nicks and scratches on the aluminum
part...as on the original.

I would always buy from him again. Very helpful and courteous...he even
puts your wheel on his homepage in a customer pre-view section, so you
can look at your wheel before it is shipped.

Thomas Willig
Germany

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Mon Jul 13 10:56:22 2009
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:56:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>

 I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used. If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean the points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory manual and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized experts. Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas appreciated.

--
Tim Davis BN7

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Mon Jul 13 11:13:19 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:13:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl>
References: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl>
	<BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CEAA6C19-CA34-4798-BEC0-4DA8B5A49C79@cox.net>

I guess you could click the link in his original email which leads  
directly to a Derrington style wheel which is three slotted spokes at  
120 degree spaces.

Here's my Moto Lita wheel compared the normal Moto Lita:

http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/derrington.htm

Wilko
San Diego



On Jul 12, 2009, at 12:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:

> I don't think any of the Moto-Lita wheels has the 120 degree spoke  
> layout
> originally used in the big Healeys. Anything else just looks wrong.
> Bill Lawrence
>
>>
>>
>> Moto-Lita is making similar wheels and some models can be had fairly
>> cheaply new on Ebay. May be one is a good replacement for your  
>> existing
>> wheel. One example of the many from this ebay shop is:
>>
>>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTO-LITA-DERRINGTON-WOODRIM-15-FLAT-STEERING- 
> WHEEL_W0Q
> QitemZ380136803051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM 
> ?hash=i
> tem5881eb4aeb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1| 
> 72%3A1689|
> 293%3A1|294%3A50
>>
>> I have no financial interest in the firm.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL

From dan at warner-associates.com  Mon Jul 13 11:11:12 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:11:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <9551d66a24334c93b25ee4327a90dce2@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <A8087B974EB846B389546604CF2F7431@DANSTROM>

I have had this happen.  Pull those wheels off and look at the brakes and
drums checking for rust and green crystalation of the brake fluid around the
pistons.  If you try to drive it you run the risk of one of the liners on
the brake shoes detaching.  The inside of the brake drums where the brake
shoes hit are probably rusty.  You might be able to clean everything up and
get buy without replacing the rubber parts.
Dan



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jon Buhler
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 9:29 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem

Fellows, this weekend when I was backing my 67 3000 out of the garage, the
left rear brake locked up.  When I drove forward, it released but locked up
again in reverse.  The hand brake had not been on and I had not used the
foot
brake prior to this happening.  Your thougnts please.

Thanks,

Jon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Jul 13 11:13:08 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:13:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <a06200703c6811ae43885@[192.168.0.102]>

It doesn't seem to take much moisture in the atmosphere to result in 
the points sticking when a car is left for an extended period. That's 
been my only problem with the fuel pump, and it stopped happening 
after being stored for the winter in my new garage which has a vapour 
barrier in the floor.

Stephen, BJ8

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 11:36:33 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:36:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cricket test
In-Reply-To: <375799.86238.qm@web86407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <375799.86238.qm@web86407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <173126440907131036s46df0237x2fb0374129ec1a70@mail.gmail.com>

watched some of the test when we were in England over the weekend. anA
mazing game, not sure of the rules. In American baseball a team woul dbe
hard pressd to score 20 runs in a inning, let alone 245 as per cricket. care
to provide a quick overview of the game?

I went to the MGLive event at Silverstone.
a gazillion MGs about 50 Healeys. They did have a 60 minute Healeys only
race. Had a Healey Silverstone and a100s racing. Took som epoor video of
some of the action on my cell phone. Will post the video and pics on line
then send along the link to the list,
cheers,
Ira Erbs
BT7 1959

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 5:57 AM, D HALL <dthall at btinternet.com> wrote:

> John
> Having to understand short leg, silly mid on, deep extra cover, slip and a
> googlyB makes "whos on first" appear simple.
> Regards David
> David Hall
>
> --- On Sun, 12/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
>
> From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
> Subject: Re: Cricket test
> To: "D HALL" <dthall at btinternet.com>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, 12 July, 2009, 9:23 PM
>
>
> o;?
>
>
> Hi David
> Didnt need rain- Monty did it for them- I thought the tail might wag
> Cheers
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: D HALL
> To: John & Kerry Rowe
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] test
>
>
>
>
>
>
> John & Kerry
> Does not look like rain will save the day.
> Float the "cricket" and lets see if the other half of the world have any
> thoughts !
> Regards David
>
> David Hall
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  B On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Jul 13 12:14:54 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:14:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] visors
In-Reply-To: <000501ca0112$585f9a60$4000a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <000501ca0112$585f9a60$4000a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503098@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I got some Moss ones once, listed for a Triumph. They were dark green
plastic, I think. The clamps certainly scratched or made a divot in the
chrome. They didn't really work that well, at my height, might as well
move my head to have the sun blocked by the top of the windshield frame
like I have been doing for 40 years.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 13 12:48:29 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:48:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <4A5B817D.8040300@chello.nl>

Do not clean the points using emery paper. If you did, polish the points 
using flower paper followed with thin cardboard or stiff paper 
inpregnated with some metalpolish, clean and spray with some contact spray.
One of my cars has been inoperable for 25 years, but once every few 
years I start up the engine and never had problems with the SU electric 
pump.
Also check the voltage accross the running pump.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

tld6008 at mchsi.com schreef:
>  I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used. If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean the points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory manual and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized experts. Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2235 - Release Date: 07/13/09 05:56:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 13 12:53:31 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:53:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] visors
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503098@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <000501ca0112$585f9a60$4000a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503098@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <4A5B82AB.3000204@chello.nl>

Base ball caps are the best sun screens ever. Don't bother with the add ons.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Freese, Ken schreef:
> I got some Moss ones once, listed for a Triumph. They were dark green
> plastic, I think. The clamps certainly scratched or made a divot in the
> chrome. They didn't really work that well, at my height, might as well
> move my head to have the sun blocked by the top of the windshield frame
> like I have been doing for 40 years.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2235 - Release Date: 07/13/09 05:56:00

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Jul 13 15:54:53 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:54:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <A47CE8F1757D4029A99661F7BB6C90D8@LIFEBOOK>

Sounds like a diaphragm stiffening up from non use. It might also benefit 
from loosening the throw over adjustment by another hole or two.

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 9:56 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump


> I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used. 
> If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean 
> the points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory 
> manual and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized 
> experts. Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended 
> period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas 
> appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 13 13:07:51 2009
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:07:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <CEAA6C19-CA34-4798-BEC0-4DA8B5A49C79@cox.net>
Message-ID: <174192.90734.qm@web110201.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I just acquired a Lempert wheel from a clubmember that sold his Austin-Healey.  As a result I have a 120 degree spoke Derrington steering wheel for sale.  I bought this from the same ebay UK vendor, The wheel is indentical albeit a bit lighter.  The wheel is already in the US, brand new, never put on a car.

Tinyurl of the ebay listing: http://preview.tinyurl.com/m8qpam

email me off list if interested,  I'll send out pics.

Bert

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 13 14:22:57 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:22:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] visors
Message-ID: <859451.89546.qm@web110305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

very easy to 'tint' the top of the windshield as new cars. go to Advance, Zone, etc and buy static-cling tinted vinyl. It is made to 'stick onto' side windows or windshields. Cut into a strip approx. 4" wide and 'stick' at the top interior of the windshield. Roll up and put in glovebox. Also cut a misc. piece for your better half to put whereever.
Had had these for approx. 20 years and they still cling. Also have the screw on things being discussed; yes, they will make big screw dents in the chrome at the inside top of the windshield--and you can't put the top up with these anyway.
No problem !!!!!

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Mon Jul 13 15:20:40 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:20:40 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cricket test
References: <375799.86238.qm@web86407.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<173126440907131036s46df0237x2fb0374129ec1a70@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0A5517DC74B843F992D6AB64F9D09171@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Ira
Twenty runs in an innings!!. That would be worse than watching the poms
stonewalling for time to force a draw
John Rowe  Qld Aust
BN1 BT7
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: I Erbs
  To: D HALL
  Cc: John & Kerry Rowe ; healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 3:36 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cricket test


  watched some of the test when we were in England over the weekend. anA
mazing game, not sure of the rules. In American baseball a team woul dbe hard
pressd to score 20 runs in a inning, let alone 245 as per cricket. care to
provide a quick overview of the game?

  I went to the MGLive event at Silverstone.
  a gazillion MGs about 50 Healeys. They did have a 60 minute Healeys only
race. Had a Healey Silverstone and a100s racing. Took som epoor video of some
of the action on my cell phone. Will post the video and pics on line then send
along the link to the list,
  cheers,
  Ira Erbs
  BT7 1959


  On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 5:57 AM, D HALL <dthall at btinternet.com> wrote:

    John
    Having to understand short leg, silly mid on, deep extra cover, slip and
a
    googlyB makes "whos on first" appear simple.
    Regards David
    David Hall

    --- On Sun, 12/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:


    From: John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
    Subject: Re: Cricket test
    To: "D HALL" <dthall at btinternet.com>
    Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
    Date: Sunday, 12 July, 2009, 9:23 PM


    o;?



    Hi David
    Didnt need rain- Monty did it for them- I thought the tail might wag
    Cheers
    John

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: D HALL
    To: John & Kerry Rowe
    Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 1:52 AM
    Subject: Re: [Healeys] test






    John & Kerry
    Does not look like rain will save the day.
    Float the "cricket" and lets see if the other half of the world have any
    thoughts !
    Regards David

    David Hall










    B On Fri, 10/7/09, John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au> wrote:




    _____________________________________________
    _______________________________________________
    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

    Healeys at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

    You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

    http://www.team.net/archive





  --
  I Erbs
  Portland, OR



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2234 - Release Date: 07/12/09
17:56:00

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:02:08 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:02:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907131602n677f1e5bnfdc73b0e9f96e42b@mail.gmail.com>

Tim -

SU Burlen sells electronic conversion kits for the pump, its about 30 pound....

Alan

On 7/14/09, tld6008 at mchsi.com <tld6008 at mchsi.com> wrote:
>  I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used.
> If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean the
> points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory manual
> and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized experts.
> Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended period.
> The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:02:48 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:02:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <174192.90734.qm@web110201.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <CEAA6C19-CA34-4798-BEC0-4DA8B5A49C79@cox.net>
	<174192.90734.qm@web110201.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <173126440907131602i4c144ba3wdcc8679708ec2694@mail.gmail.com>

need help sorting out the correct adapter for a non adjustable column on a
59 BT7. Hard to sort out which one is correct.Ira Erbs
POrtland,OR

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 12:07 PM, Bert Van Brande
<bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>wrote:

> I just acquired a Lempert wheel from a clubmember that sold his
> Austin-Healey.  As a result I have a 120 degree spoke Derrington steering
> wheel for sale.  I bought this from the same ebay UK vendor, The wheel is
> indentical albeit a bit lighter.  The wheel is already in the US, brand new,
> never put on a car.
>
> Tinyurl of the ebay listing: http://preview.tinyurl.com/m8qpam
>
> email me off list if interested,  I'll send out pics.
>
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 17:09:21 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:09:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <173126440907131609q63719745m838faadeabea6e8@mail.gmail.com>

drive it more often :)leave a trickle charger on it
Ira Erbs

On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 9:56 AM, <tld6008 at mchsi.com> wrote:

>  I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used.
> If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean the
> points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory manual
> and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized experts.
> Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended period.
> The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From onehundredbnone at msn.com  Mon Jul 13 17:47:17 2009
From: onehundredbnone at msn.com (greg newton)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 23:47:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
	<751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com>
	<M+x7XPCUMaUKFwRG@jharper.demon.co.uk> 
	<751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT116-W463DEF0A292F8E95B3D31BAD220@phx.gbl>

I do believe I have one of these covers on my BN1, how can I be certain. any
distinguishing marks



Greg Newton

Port dover Ontario, canada

BJ7/63

BN1/ 53



> Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:18:18 -0700
> From: cnaarndt at gmail.com
> To: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
> CC: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
>
> John
>
> I believe this option to be rare in that I've only seen two over the years.
> It would be nice to hear from others on the list who may have or have seen
> this chrome valve cover and/or air cleaners on the 100.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:09 AM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > For what it is worth I would have thought that the chromed air cleaners
and
> > chromed rocker cover combination on a 100 was rare. The examples I have
seen
> > had the H6 carburettors and early cold air box when a chromed rocker
cover
> > were fitted. What do others think?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> >
> >> The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange
> >> basis
> >> along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned
about
> >> the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.
> >>
> >> Curt
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hello All,
> >>>
> >>> The Originality Guide states that "chrome valve covers were available
> >>> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
> >>>
> >>> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or
just
> >>> for
> >>> the early 100 cars ? Can anyone point me to a photo of this
> >>> original chrome cover ? Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
> >>> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
> >>> Healey Motor Co. ?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Jim
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>>
> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>
> >>> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
> >>>
> >>> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date:
07/05/09
> >> 05:53:00
> >>
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as onehundredbnone at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 13 18:27:35 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:27:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HealeysReturnToBonneville
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS62AC2C79B05FE6CE9C8A9B3230@phx.gbl>

All-Right,
Dozens of enthusiasts are planning to come on 9/16 -9/19  to Bonneville "World
of Speed" to see the Austin-Healey Streamliner and the Endurance car run.  If
you would like some more information on this event and the Saturday 9/12 event
at Miller Motorsports Park (west of Salt Lake City), here are a couple web
sites and I'll also try and stay in touch.
www.healeysreturntobonneville.com
www.saltflats.com
www.millermotorsportspark.com
GaryB

From tdrech at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 13 18:44:34 2009
From: tdrech at sbcglobal.net (Tom Rech)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:44:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert 3.54 Diffs
Message-ID: <FA8668AEC4694935BAAC2F98B17B117A@RECH2001>

Has anyone got a heads up on whether or not Mike Lempert will have more 3.54
diffs manufactured?  I waited over 2 years for the last batch which never
materialized.  What's the story?  Mike?

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jul 13 18:47:28 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 00:47:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <CEAA6C19-CA34-4798-BEC0-4DA8B5A49C79@cox.net>
References: <604283.65267.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A5A2704.6030609@chello.nl> 
	<BAY144-W2002E221C99D0AF328EED4A5250@phx.gbl> 
	<CEAA6C19-CA34-4798-BEC0-4DA8B5A49C79@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W28899BFC8BF33DF8654EFCA5230@phx.gbl>

I guess I could at that! There are still a number of reasons to prefer Mike
Lempert's product.
Bill Lawrence

> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> From: e-wilkins at cox.net
> Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:13:19 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
>
> I guess you could click the link in his original email which leads
> directly to a Derrington style wheel which is three slotted spokes at
> 120 degree spaces.
>
> Here's my Moto Lita wheel compared the normal Moto Lita:
>
> http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/derrington.htm
>
> Wilko
> San Diego
>
>
>
> On Jul 12, 2009, at 12:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
>> I don't think any of the Moto-Lita wheels has the 120 degree spoke
>> layout
>> originally used in the big Healeys. Anything else just looks wrong.
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Moto-Lita is making similar wheels and some models can be had fairly
>>> cheaply new on Ebay. May be one is a good replacement for your
>>> existing
>>> wheel. One example of the many from this ebay shop is:
>>>
>>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTO-LITA-DERRINGTON-WOODRIM-15-FLAT-STEERING-
>> WHEEL_W0Q
>> QitemZ380136803051QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM
>> ?hash=i
>> tem5881eb4aeb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|
>> 72%3A1689|
>> 293%3A1|294%3A50
>>>
>>> I have no financial interest in the firm.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jamesfwerner at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 19:06:07 2009
From: jamesfwerner at gmail.com (jim werner)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 21:06:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Southeastern Classic
Message-ID: <1e40548a0907131806m8ed666j59b7dfbc3a4891ab@mail.gmail.com>

 Hey Guys! I am sending you information about the Southeastern Classic that
we are hosting September 17  20, 2009 in Townsend, TN.  I hope you will
look at your calendars and try to attend. PLEASE sent this to all of YOUR
club members to pass the word around. Anyone can go to the club website at
www.smokymthealeys.org to get the registration information and hotel
information for this event.

 The hotel where the event is being held (Valley View Lodge with incredibly
low room rates) has just built a new Lodge meeting structure that is
fabulous! It is perfect for our casual gathering of Healey lovers in the
mountains. We will be driving The Dragon (US 129), many mountain drives,
shopping with discount coupons!!!, a great silent auction and Silverstone
Gymkana. (with go-karts) There will be a bluegrass band, outdoor movies and
of course Margaritaville!

 We will have babysitters available for those who want to bring their kids.
The facility is very kid friendly with lots of pools and playgrounds. The
grounds are beautiful with mountain landscaping, wood carvings, and water
features.

 What are you waiting for???? Go to www.smokymthealeys.org and register
TODAY!!!! See you in September!

 Denise Wilie Denton, President

Smoky Mountain Austin Healey Club

denise at wsdassociates.com

www.smokymthealeys.org

From pennell at cox.net  Mon Jul 13 19:09:12 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 21:09:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Wheels
In-Reply-To: <EB2DCD6F11D24610B2470957C6CC4638@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <20090713210912.KV22U.287319.imail@eastrmwml32>

Simon,

As for the wood I feel a light wood with the black interior is striking.  And the style most definitely should be the Pennell model!

Go to his homepage and look at all the different models and woods.

:)
Keith Pennell

> I have a 59 BT7 and was wondering if anyone else has a lempert wheel of
> which they can share a photo?
> 
> I can't decide which wheel/wood to select and would like some opinions. My
> interior is black.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Simon

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Mon Jul 13 19:45:09 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:45:09 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301c9fd16$774c5990$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3><751d05480907052147p6729d006pae3dc9b31a57266e@mail.gmail.com><M+x7XPCUMaUKFwRG@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <40095B24C796466180562CD319100CA7@PeterPC>

G'day Curt

I have a chrome cover on the Ward Spl - however, as everything else under 
the bonnet (hood) was chromed at one time, including the carburettors, I 
suspect this might be aftermarket!

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
To: "John Harper" <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: "Jim Lyons" <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover


> John
>
> I believe this option to be rare in that I've only seen two over the 
> years.
> It would be nice to hear from others on the list who may have or have seen
> this chrome valve cover and/or air cleaners on the 100.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:09 AM, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> For what it is worth I would have thought that the chromed air cleaners 
>> and
>> chromed rocker cover combination on a 100 was rare. The examples I have 
>> seen
>> had the H6 carburettors and early cold air box when a chromed rocker 
>> cover
>> were fitted. What do others think?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>>> The chrome valve cover was available for the 100s only on an exchange
>>> basis
>>> along with the air filters, and as John Harper has already mentioned 
>>> about
>>> the valve covers, the original filter covers were just chrome plated.
>>>
>>> Curt
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hello All,
>>>>
>>>> The Originality Guide states that  "chrome valve covers were available
>>>> exchange from the Donald Healey Motor Co."
>>>>
>>>> Were these covers available from the factory for the BJ8 in 1966 or 
>>>> just
>>>> for
>>>> the early 100 cars ?  Can anyone point me to a photo of this
>>>> original chrome cover ?   Do any of the parts suppliers offer a good
>>>> reproduction of this cover that was available from the Donald
>>>> Healey Motor Co. ?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Jim
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 
>>> 07/05/09
>>> 05:53:00
>>>
>>
>> --
>> John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 13 20:09:05 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:09:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] visors
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503098@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <000501ca0112$585f9a60$4000a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01503098@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <BAY130-W109CBB9DE3409B82B8720A4230@phx.gbl>

I use pieces of plastic I cut from the top of a 5 gal bucket. Screw the allen
screw into the plastic and Ive had no chrome damage. The thickness is perfect.
The visor doesn't help much but it is better than nothing. Mine are dark grey
and I have been thinking of adding some UV grey window filter to make it
darker. It also serves to deflect/direct the wind down on hot days.

Rich Kahn
.
> Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:14:54 -0700
> From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com
> To: scbronson5 at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] visors
>
> I got some Moss ones once, listed for a Triumph. They were dark green
> plastic, I think. The clamps certainly scratched or made a divot in the
> chrome. They didn't really work that well, at my height, might as well
> move my head to have the sun blocked by the top of the windshield frame
> like I have been doing for 40 years.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 13 21:25:45 2009
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 23:25:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ivory White (OEW)  Longbridge 57 BN4 at Conclave?
Message-ID: <BAY104-W209B89FA6240119310F86CC5230@phx.gbl>

Does anyone have any info about the owner of this Longbridge 57 BN4 with
Ontario plates that I saw at the Ft Henry gathering at Conclave? I did not see
the car at the popular car show in the park during the day.  I would like to
see details of interior, trunk, and engine areas

thank you for your assistance

jim



_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 14 04:34:39 2009
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 06:34:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix Association | British Car
	Day
In-Reply-To: <328682E141014FFEB4BBD26A91E5289A@DIETZ>
References: <328682E141014FFEB4BBD26A91E5289A@DIETZ>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W11DE2F962A501F50EB9587A1230@phx.gbl>

  Great Event! Any listers attending? This weekend. 7/18-19.

 WD 67 BJ8









 http://www.pvgp.org/674693113112149/site/default.asp


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009

From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com  Tue Jul 14 08:01:51 2009
From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard F (AS))
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:01:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907131602n677f1e5bnfdc73b0e9f96e42b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
	<ff59076c0907131602n677f1e5bnfdc73b0e9f96e42b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A54AA@XMBIL101.northgrum.com>

Tim -
	Have you tried whacking the Fuel Pump ? Each spring, when my BJ8
awakes from its winter hibernation, the fuel pump does not work. I keep
a rubber mallet on the floor behind the passenger seat. I use the mallet
to whack the bulkhead under the rear seat, where the fuel pump is
mounted, and the pump immediately comes to life. I only have to do this
once a year, and then the pump works fine. My pump is a standard SU pump
for a BJ8, modified with transistors to do the switching.
- Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 08:51:30 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:51:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] visors
Message-ID: <c0c.6274e96d.378df572@aol.com>

I wonder if a piece of "static cling" film (Approx. 5" X 12") could be  
temporarily stuck on the inside of the windscreen to block the sun. It  could 
easily be repositioned if necessary & removed for storage when not  required. 
One for the driver & one for the navigator.
Looking into this is on my never ending list of things to do.
I think I am back on the list.
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/13/2009 1:54:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:


Freese, Ken schreef:
> I got some Moss ones once, listed for  a Triumph. They were dark green
> plastic, I think. The clamps certainly  scratched or made a divot in the
> chrome. They didn't really work that  well, at my height, might as well
> move my head to have the sun blocked  by the top of the windshield frame
> like I have been doing for 40  years.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>  _______________________________________________



**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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yExcfooterNO62)

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Jul 14 09:01:54 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:01:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] visors
References: <c0c.6274e96d.378df572@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B3037419A0F549099D23E0F41F99C680@your4dacd0ea75>

I have some "sun blockers" that are two small tinted pieces of plastic about 
2 inches in diameter with little attachments for the ears  :^)

sorry, couldn't resist
Dallas




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] visors


>I wonder if a piece of "static cling" film (Approx. 5" X 12") could be
> temporarily stuck on the inside of the windscreen to block the sun. It 
> could
> easily be repositioned if necessary & removed for storage when not 
> required.
> One for the driver & one for the navigator.
> Looking into this is on my never ending list of things to do.
> I think I am back on the list.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> In a message dated 7/13/2009 1:54:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:
>
>
> Freese, Ken schreef:
>> I got some Moss ones once, listed for  a Triumph. They were dark green
>> plastic, I think. The clamps certainly  scratched or made a divot in the
>> chrome. They didn't really work that  well, at my height, might as well
>> move my head to have the sun blocked  by the top of the windshield frame
>> like I have been doing for 40  years.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
>>  _______________________________________________

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 09:11:52 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:11:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels
Message-ID: <d28.4b8f45ae.378dfa38@aol.com>

And as an added benefit, Moto Lita actually manufactured the original  
"Derrington" wheel (120 degree slotted spokes) for Victor Derrington. See the  
Aug. 1993 issue of the Chatter for further details. This is not to say that 
the  wheel they are making today is identical to the original Derrington. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2009 5:37:47 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
coudesluijs at chello.nl writes:

They  also have the120 degree spok, see www.motolita.co.uk
Kees  Oudesluijs
NL




**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323036x1201367247/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 09:21:44 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:21:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <bcb.53c7e0cc.378dfc88@aol.com>

To quote SU (service sheet AUA211, October 1959)  " then  turn to the 
diaphragm. and in order to restore its original pliability, ruckle  each of the 
two fabric layers vigorously between the thumb and fingers, after  which it 
can be reassembled and carefully reset for the 'throw over'."
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/13/2009 2:01:38 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
richchrysler at quickclic.net writes:

Sounds  like a diaphragm stiffening up from non use. It might also benefit 
from  loosening the throw over adjustment by another hole or two.

Rich  Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From:  <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: "Healey list"  <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 9:56  AM
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump


> I have a rebuilt SU fuel  pump, albeit several years old, but hardly 
used. 
> If my car sits for a  couple of months I have to take it apart and clean 
> the points etc to  get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory 
> manual and per  all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized 
> experts.  Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an 
extended 
>  period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas 
>  appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are  subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive  
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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yExcfooterNO62)

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 14 09:44:59 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <bcb.53c7e0cc.378dfc88@aol.com>
References: <bcb.53c7e0cc.378dfc88@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS3706AE3F1B80DA17ECDD5B3230@phx.gbl>

Several things can be improved if you "ruckle" them vigorously...
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 11:21 AM
To: <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <tld6008 at mchsi.com>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Pump

> To quote SU (service sheet AUA211, October 1959)  " then  turn to the
> diaphragm. and in order to restore its original pliability, ruckle  each 
> of the
> two fabric layers vigorously between the thumb and fingers, after  which 
> it
> can be reassembled and carefully reset for the 'throw over'."
> Gary Hodson

From 55healey at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 09:49:40 2009
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 08:49:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
Message-ID: <1464329A-A630-4018-A22E-1653F3ED5937@comcast.net>

I am just ready to install a new aluminum oil pan on the 100.  I  
wonder if there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and what I  
should torque them too.
Any opinions on gasket sealer?

Thanks,

Rob

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 10:01:58 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:01:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
In-Reply-To: <1464329A-A630-4018-A22E-1653F3ED5937@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <687904333.1279891247587318383.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Generally, unless a specific pattern is known, torque from the inner to the outer, alternating sides, in two or three steps (e.g. if the final torque is 25ft-lbs, torque all in sequence to 15 or 20ft-lbs, then final torque to 25). 

The torque will depend on the type and size of bolt; e.g. 3/8" fine should be torqued to about 30-35ft-lbs (somewhat less if you oil the bolts). I think the bolts on the pan are smaller, so figure out what size bolt you have and look up the setting in a torque table (google 'torque table'). 

If you're going to use a cork gasket, I like to 'glue' one side in place with 3M yellow snot, then put a small bead of blue RTV on the other (this works well for me for valve cover gaskets). If you're going to go gasketless, I like 'Right Stuff' (expensive, but since you probably just spent north of $400 on the Al pan ...). 



bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 8:49:40 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan 

I am just ready to install a new aluminum oil pan on the 100. I 
wonder if there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and what I 
should torque them too. 
Any opinions on gasket sealer? 

Thanks, 

Rob 
_______________________________________________ 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 10:28:58 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:28:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
In-Reply-To: <687904333.1279891247587318383.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <701030298.1295031247588938459.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Neglected to add that if you do use a cork gasket, you probably can't torque to the recommended setting for the bolt--you'll just squash the gasket. In this case, torque in sequence 'to feel' (e.g. 'snug'). 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
To: "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:01:58 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] new oil pan 

Generally, unless a specific pattern is known, torque from the inner to the outer, alternating sides, in two or three steps (e.g. if the final torque is 25ft-lbs, torque all in sequence to 15 or 20ft-lbs, then final torque to 25). 

The torque will depend on the type and size of bolt; e.g. 3/8" fine should be torqued to about 30-35ft-lbs (somewhat less if you oil the bolts). I think the bolts on the pan are smaller, so figure out what size bolt you have and look up the setting in a torque table (google 'torque table'). 

If you're going to use a cork gasket, I like to 'glue' one side in place with 3M yellow snot, then put a small bead of blue RTV on the other (this works well for me for valve cover gaskets). If you're going to go gasketless, I like 'Right Stuff' (expensive, but since you probably just spent north of $400 on the Al pan ...). 



bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 8:49:40 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan 

I am just ready to install a new aluminum oil pan on the 100. I 
wonder if there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and what I 
should torque them too. 
Any opinions on gasket sealer? 

Thanks, 

Rob 

From medlabinc at msn.com  Tue Jul 14 10:32:12 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 09:32:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  visors
Message-ID: <COL109-DS65F9B275639C5577BF013A2230@phx.gbl>

I like the flexible tinted plastic idea.  You can place them as needed.  They
are small to stow.

We have been using tinted plastic sun visors with suction cups.
Reverse install procedure to uninstall.  No damage to chrome and except for a
circle of saliva there is no sign anything  was ever there.

Dick Matson / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Warthodson at aol.com<mailto:Warthodson at aol.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] visors


I wonder if a piece of "static cling" film (Approx. 5" X 12") could be
temporarily stuck on the inside of the windscreen to block the sun. It  could
easily be repositioned if necessary & removed for storage when not  required.
One for the driver & one for the navigator.
Looking into this is on my never ending list of things to do.
I think I am back on the list.
Gary Hodson


In a message dated 7/13/2009 1:54:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl> writes:


Freese, Ken schreef:
> I got some Moss ones once, listed for  a Triumph. They were dark green
> plastic, I think. The clamps certainly  scratched or made a divot in the
> chrome. They didn't really work that  well, at my height, might as well
> move my head to have the sun blocked  by the top of the windshield frame
> like I have been doing for 40  years.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 14 11:05:25 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 13:05:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  visors
References: <COL109-DS65F9B275639C5577BF013A2230@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000e01ca04a5$487fcb10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

And where do I find a set of the suction cup visors for my driving pleasure?

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: visors


>I like the flexible tinted plastic idea.  You can place them as needed. 
>They
> are small to stow.
>
> We have been using tinted plastic sun visors with suction cups.
> Reverse install procedure to uninstall.  No damage to chrome and except 
> for a
> circle of saliva there is no sign anything  was ever there.
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 14 11:19:40 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:19:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907130718g6dbdd5d5if570a98ce439a386@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <679266.97979.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Curt
   My 1954 Healey Hundred (in long term resto) was purchased by my father in
late 1963 in Los Angeles.  It came with chrome stock valve cover and chrome
Burgess air cleaners (front, back and perferated screen ).  I have always
assumed it was a done by a pervious owner but since just these parts and
nothing else was chrome it may have been original dealer or factory order. 
Seems like a hot rodder would have chromed other items while he was at it like
hood prop rod, relay covers, nuts, bolts, dip stick, etc.
Regards
Ray Juncal

--- On Mon, 7/13/09, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alloy -Chrome Rocker (Valve) Cover
To: "John Harper" <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: "Jim Lyons" <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, July 13, 2009, 7:18 AM

John

I believe this option to be rare in that I've only seen two over the years.
It would be nice to hear from others on the list who may have or have seen
this chrome valve cover and/or air cleaners on the 100.

Curt

From medlabinc at msn.com  Tue Jul 14 11:25:16 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:25:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Fw:  visors
Message-ID: <COL109-DS18F1E823AC957628688D26A2230@phx.gbl>

Check in at your nearest Shucks or AutoZone.  Size them as desired.

Dick





----- Original Message -----
From: Mark LaPierre<mailto:lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: Dick Matson<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com> ; AustinHealey
List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: visors


And where do I find a set of the suction cup visors for my driving pleasure?

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>>
To: "AustinHealey List"
<healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: visors


>I like the flexible tinted plastic idea.  You can place them as needed.
>They
> are small to stow.
>
> We have been using tinted plastic sun visors with suction cups.
> Reverse install procedure to uninstall.  No damage to chrome and except
> for a
> circle of saliva there is no sign anything  was ever there.
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 14 11:59:37 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:59:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] visors
Message-ID: <654235.48398.qm@web110303.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Note small storage space for 'cling' tint: 4" x 1" diameter--put in zip-lock bag and put in glovebox or door pocket. no problem!!
R

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 14 12:01:45 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:01:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top rear window
Message-ID: <49827.61666.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Listers
   A couple of months back someone asked me about making a rear window for a
non-factory hardtop.  (sorry I deleted the email so I don't remember who.)  I
have been involved in building movie vehicles with custom windshield glass so
I understand the process.  It is possible for the"do it yourselfer" but pretty
complicated.
    Later that same lifetime I happened to be waiting in a doctors office.  I
take that as an opportunity to catch up with my reading of out of date
esoteric periodicals.  Well lo and behold in a nine month old issue of
"Trailer Boats" I found a article on replacing the windscreen on your ski
boat.
    The article used a fabrication shop in the Los Angeles area ( Wayne-Earl
Mfg. in Placentia, California. <wayneearl.com>  (714) 577-0632  contact Dan
Porter )  They need the original part for a pattern and the cost runs $200-
$600.  The sample in the article looks larger and more complicated than a rear
glass for a hard top and cost $400.  They deal across the U.S. but there may
be a supplier closer to you.  Check with boat repair shops in your area. 
    I can scan and send the article if you need it but all the important info
is above.  The article mentions two things that seem important.  Specify an
acrylic that is both U.S. made and cast as opposed to extruded.  Also look for
a "marine grade" plastic that will have better UV stability.
    I hope this is useful information for those out there restoring hardtops.
Regards
Ray Juncal

From 55healey at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 12:54:55 2009
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:54:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
In-Reply-To: <687904333.1279891247587318383.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <687904333.1279891247587318383.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6DDA1031-7A33-453C-89DC-4102E527DCBA@comcast.net>

Thanks Bob,

The pan bolts were just a little more than hand tightened and the seal  
wasn't leaking.  Bad news is the box shaped "Oil strainer" is really  
hammered, the screens have torn and the bottom is loose.  Who knows  
how long that thing has been rattling around in there. Do I really  
need the thing?  Do I have to find a replacement, there isn't much  
left to braze back together again.  Looks like the same hammer  
mechanic that worked the pan over did his magic on this as well. I was  
wondering if I could just leave this thing off, I haven't used chunky  
oil for 8 years.

Thanks for the information on re-torquing the bolts, the gasket is  
regular gasket material, not cork. The bolts are 1/4" fine (1/16"  
heads). I need to figure out what to do with the oil strainer before I  
get to bolt it back up.

Rob

On Jul 14, 2009, at 9:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Generally, unless a specific pattern is known, torque from the inner  
> to the outer, alternating sides, in two or three steps (e.g. if the  
> final torque is 25ft-lbs, torque all in sequence to 15 or 20ft-lbs,  
> then final torque to 25).
>
> The torque will depend on the type and size of bolt; e.g. 3/8" fine  
> should be torqued to about 30-35ft-lbs (somewhat less if you oil the  
> bolts).  I think the bolts on the pan are smaller, so figure out  
> what size bolt you have and look up the setting in a torque table  
> (google 'torque table').
>
> If you're going to use a cork gasket, I like to 'glue' one side in  
> place with 3M yellow snot, then put a small bead of blue RTV on the  
> other (this works well for me for valve cover gaskets).  If you're  
> going to go gasketless, I like 'Right Stuff' (expensive, but since  
> you probably just spent north of $400 on the Al pan ...).
>
>
>
> bs

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul 14 12:59:23 2009
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:59:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 1
References: <mailman.15429.1247586592.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E6AAF715AD904890A57C2CF043AA81D2@DadsPC>

Okay, I wasn't going to participate in this discussion for fear of conflict
of interest, but Gary flushed me out with his comment:
> And as an added benefit, Moto Lita actually manufactured the original
> "Derrington" wheel (120 degree slotted spokes) for Victor Derrington. See
> the
> Aug. 1993 issue of the Chatter for further details. This is not to say
> that
> the  wheel they are making today is identical to the original Derrington.
> Gary Hodson

I would like to add to this and clarify involvement by Moto-Lita.  The
original Derrington was developed by Victor Derrington circa 1953-1954, and
he applied successfully for a patent in October of 1954. Those interested in
such trivia may view it here:
http://v3.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=GB&NR=791052A&KC=A&FT=D&date=19580219&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_GB

The patent specifies a few traits that never materialized in actual
production, but for the most part, is accurate. Victor's early wheels were
well made out of rich mahogany and either obeechi or white sycamore,
creating lovely contrasting layers. At some point Victor must have gotten
too busy to keep up with all the work and chose to outsource. Moto-Lita was
one such outsource provider, but not until around 1957. The Moto-Lita
"Derrington" wheels were not made precisely like the early Derringtons and
were not of the same high quality or workmanship. Finding an ORIGINAL
Derrington is difficult.  In the 1960's, Moto-Lita did supply Derrington
style wheels to Healey and were sold as optional accessories with a
personalized badge to go with it:
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/107240008
TO BE CONTINUED...

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul 14 13:00:51 2009
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:00:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 2
References: <mailman.25.1247594402.20760.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6936963336A641CE8A70BFF37C48A8BB@DadsPC>

CONTINUATION...

Derrington has since become a generic term for any evenly spaced, slotted 
wheel (although Derrington made another style). However, Derrington was more 
than just the spoke, it was also that striking laminate rim. The rims took a 
downward turn over the years and today are nothing like the originals. 
Moto-Lita uses a marine plywood to create their rims; they are reasonably 
attractive, just not anything like the originals. Here is an original Victor 
Derrington rim: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/105200736 You have to 
imagine the colors when new.  Here is a well preserved and varnish stripped 
rim from a Healey Moto-Lita supplied 1965 Derrington: 
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/109383215  And last is my Derrington 
style rim: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/109383211 (during 
finishing). Compare all with current day Moto-Lita.

Mike L. 

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Jul 14 13:56:00 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 12:56:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top rear window
In-Reply-To: <49827.61666.qm@web111401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090714155600.4N35J.1796728.root@mp17>

Original hardtop rear plexiglass used to be and probably still is available from Bill Bolton.  it works for both 2 and 4 seater version.


Ray see ya at Monterey?

---- Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Listers
>    A couple of months back someone asked me about making a rear window for a
> non-factory hardtop.  (sorry I deleted the email so I don't remember who.)  I
> have been involved in building movie vehicles with custom windshield glass so
> I understand the process.  It is possible for the"do it yourselfer" but pretty
> complicated.
>     Later that same lifetime I happened to be waiting in a doctors office.  I
> take that as an opportunity to catch up with my reading of out of date
> esoteric periodicals.  Well lo and behold in a nine month old issue of
> "Trailer Boats" I found a article on replacing the windscreen on your ski
> boat.
>     The article used a fabrication shop in the Los Angeles area ( Wayne-Earl
> Mfg. in Placentia, California. <wayneearl.com>  (714) 577-0632  contact Dan
> Porter )  They need the original part for a pattern and the cost runs $200-
> $600.  The sample in the article looks larger and more complicated than a rear
> glass for a hard top and cost $400.  They deal across the U.S. but there may
> be a supplier closer to you.  Check with boat repair shops in your area. 
>     I can scan and send the article if you need it but all the important info
> is above.  The article mentions two things that seem important.  Specify an
> acrylic that is both U.S. made and cast as opposed to extruded.  Also look for
> a "marine grade" plastic that will have better UV stability.
>     I hope this is useful information for those out there restoring hardtops.
> Regards
> Ray Juncal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 14:13:54 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 13:13:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top rear window
In-Reply-To: <20090714155600.4N35J.1796728.root@mp17>
References: <20090714155600.4N35J.1796728.root@mp17>
Message-ID: <049EFC33-678A-4658-9351-0B08F5FC6422@cox.net>

While Bolton sells a high quality product, it's not "original" (it  
fits factory hardtops).

On Jul 14, 2009, at 12:56 PM, <bighealey at charter.net>  
<bighealey at charter.net> wrote:

> Original hardtop rear plexiglass used to be and probably still is  
> available from Bill Bolton.  it works for both 2 and 4 seater version.

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Jul 14 14:23:23 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 13:23:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top rear window
In-Reply-To: <049EFC33-678A-4658-9351-0B08F5FC6422@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20090714162323.ZOQYR.1798401.root@mp17>

Rear plexiglass  for original hardtops used to be and probably still is  
> > available from Bill Bolton.  it works for both 2 and 4 seater version.

---- "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote: 
> While Bolton sells a high quality product, it's not "original" (it  
> fits factory hardtops).
> 
> On Jul 14, 2009, at 12:56 PM, <bighealey at charter.net>  
> <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> > Original hardtop rear plexiglass used to be and probably still is  
> > available from Bill Bolton.  it works for both 2 and 4 seater version.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 14 14:26:55 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 20:26:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 1
In-Reply-To: <E6AAF715AD904890A57C2CF043AA81D2@DadsPC>
Message-ID: <110894072.1405271247603215539.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Mike, 

re :" Finding an ORIGINAL Derrington is difficult" 

How can one know if his Derrington is "original?" I have one that's been on my car since before I owned it--would like to know if it's a genuine Derrington. 

Cheers, 
Bob 





I would like to add to this and clarify involvement by Moto-Lita. The 
original Derrington was developed by Victor Derrington circa 1953-1954, and 
he applied successfully for a patent in October of 1954. Those interested in 
such trivia may view it here: 
http://v3.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=GB&NR=791052A&KC=A&FT=D&date=19580219&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_GB 

The patent specifies a few traits that never materialized in actual 
production, but for the most part, is accurate. Victor's early wheels were 
well made out of rich mahogany and either obeechi or white sycamore, 
creating lovely contrasting layers. At some point Victor must have gotten 
too busy to keep up with all the work and chose to outsource. Moto-Lita was 
one such outsource provider, but not until around 1957. The Moto-Lita 
"Derrington" wheels were not made precisely like the early Derringtons and 
were not of the same high quality or workmanship. Finding an ORIGINAL 
Derrington is difficult. In the 1960's, Moto-Lita did supply Derrington 
style wheels to Healey and were sold as optional accessories with a 
personalized badge to go with it: 
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/107240008 
TO BE CONTINUED... 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 15:54:18 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:54:18 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave concours (SP?)  BJ7
Message-ID: <c0c.627ed5bc.378e588a@aol.com>

I was reviewing my Conclave photos including a BJ7 under the Concours  
(SP?) tent. What caught my eye was a photo of the boot. The spare tyre  (SP?) 
was on the right side, near the battery. Was this correct on  some cars? 
Thanks,
Gary 
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323036x1201367247/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Tue Jul 14 16:01:02 2009
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:01:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 1
References: <110894072.1405271247603215539.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6B57F485AF9F40DAB50F1A9C8119021F@DadsPC>

Bob: It is not easy. There is only one type where I can be sure. They had an 
unusual and unique bolt pattern using eight bolts with uneven spacing and 
only one bolt aligned with a spoke - in the early years; when they went to 
the nine bolt pattern, it got hard to tell.  Here is a picture of an early 
original: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/105200702

Mike L.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Bob Spidell
To: Michael Lempert
Cc: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 1


Hi Mike,

re :" Finding an ORIGINAL Derrington is difficult"

How can one know if his Derrington is "original?"  I have one that's been on 
my car since before I owned it--would like to know if it's a genuine 
Derrington.

Cheers,
Bob

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 16:17:40 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:17:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Wheels PART 1
In-Reply-To: <110894072.1405271247603215539.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <110894072.1405271247603215539.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BA1D2CF0-5680-41A5-BB6E-324CEDB10D24@cox.net>

It may be easier to rule out Derrington by finding clues that is is  
Mota Lita instead. You may find a Mota Lita mark under the mounting  
ring. Mnay of the Mota Lita wheels have more rivets around the  
perimeter.

If it's really "old" there not too many other makers it could be, if  
not a Derrington or Mota Lita.

On Jul 14, 2009, at 1:26 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> re :" Finding an ORIGINAL Derrington is difficult"
>
> How can one know if his Derrington is "original?" I have one that's  
> been on my car since before I owned it--would like to know if it's  
> a genuine Derrington.
>
> Cheers,
> Bob

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Jul 14 17:10:50 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:10:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] new oil pan
In-Reply-To: <6DDA1031-7A33-453C-89DC-4102E527DCBA@comcast.net>
References: <687904333.1279891247587318383.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<6DDA1031-7A33-453C-89DC-4102E527DCBA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <357F653AF5CD462CB0BDDDED9F389F7B@GregPC>

The oil strainers on the 100 motor is quite prone to getting squished, I 
tried to find a used one, but they were all squished and broken.

Some of the new ones do not fit, they curl they lip on the bottom down and 
it hits the pan when you try to install it.  I got a well made one from the 
Nocks at Brit Car Specialists.

If a piece or pieces of metal falls off your engine and into the sump the 
screen could be all that saves your motor from an expansive rebuild, I would 
not consider putting a broken oil strainer screen on a motor or leaving it 
off altogether.

Greg Lemon 

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Jul 14 21:02:04 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 20:02:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
Message-ID: <002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I pulled 
the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While it did start 
opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and the opening is 
limited.
I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think the 
sleaved model was restricting flow.

Jerry
BJ8 

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 23:50:39 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 22:50:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>

my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
not stay in the radiator long enough.

i think they are wrong.
ron rader

1965 BJ8
1967 E type w 160 degree stat also

On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 8:02 PM, Jerry Costanzo
<grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
>
> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I pulled
the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While it did start
opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and the opening is
limited.
> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think the
sleaved model was restricting flow.

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Wed Jul 15 00:18:37 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 16:18:37 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330><000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com><002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CD527FBA7E7540EC81A7193468BBDAD5@rowe4323ef3cc5>

I run a 160 deg thermostat (obtained from the Nocks) in the 3000 BT7.  In 
Qld Australia temps,the car runs between 160-165 degs all the time 
(admittedly with a modern core in the radiator)
Being of the sleeved type which covers or uncovers the bypass as required I 
know it is diverting the water where it is supposed to go through the motor 
and not bypassing the rear of the engine. On a steep climb the temp might 
rise to 170-175 but soon comes back. At least at this temperature you have a 
few degrees up your sleeve, like about 40 deg before you start panicking.
This is with the standard fan blades (4) although I have the backup of an 
electric fan (manually switched) should it be required. When i turn the 
engine off, the temperature rarely goes above 190deg which manages to retain 
coolant in the radiator and not on the ground
Surprisingly this cooler running makes the cockpit temperatures very 
bearable without all the aftermarket insulation.
Should the modern sleeved thermostat fail, they will do so in the open 
position, unlike the original bellows which shut off
Ron, I think those at the shop are wrong also
Just my 20 cents worth
John Rowe
Qld Australia
Bn1 Bt7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion


> my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
> although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
> degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
> 180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
> the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
> thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
> not stay in the radiator long enough.
>
> i think they are wrong.
> ron rader
>
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E type w 160 degree stat also

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 15 00:33:36 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 06:33:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] steering box worm gear question
Message-ID: <COL106-W13E463CFB82639ABD8163C0200@phx.gbl>

Greetings Listmates,  I have a question for the group regarding early 3000
steering boxes. I have one box where a previous owner cut off the worm
gear/steering shaft about 5 inches above the box.  The part # is 16097 9 58. I
have a donor shaft that has a part # of 16097 11 59. The donor worm
gear/steering shaft seems to work OK as I do a bench assembly. However, I have
learned from past experience that working smooth on the bench is not the same
as working smooth under load in the car. Does anyone know what these part
numbers mean? The first 5 numbers are the same - but the last 3 are different.
Is this a distinction without a difference?
 Richard Mayor

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 00:45:58 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:45:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] steering box worm gear question
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W13E463CFB82639ABD8163C0200@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W13E463CFB82639ABD8163C0200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907142345q55850ecap8c3ed21e17441b6f@mail.gmail.com>

Richard -

You will feel a fool when I tell you.

*Month Year*

:)

Cheers,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 2:33 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Greetings Listmates,  I have a question for the group regarding early 3000
> steering boxes. I have one box where a previous owner cut off the worm
> gear/steering shaft about 5 inches above the box.  The part # is 16097 9
> 58. I
> have a donor shaft that has a part # of 16097 11 59. The donor worm
> gear/steering shaft seems to work OK as I do a bench assembly. However, I
> have
> learned from past experience that working smooth on the bench is not the
> same
> as working smooth under load in the car. Does anyone know what these part
> numbers mean? The first 5 numbers are the same - but the last 3 are
> different.
> Is this a distinction without a difference?
>  Richard Mayor
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live : Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 15 01:15:37 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:15:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4A5D8219.8080006@chello.nl>

The new replacement thermostat probably has a lower operating 
temperature. It is not particularly a good thing that the engine is 
running cooler. The higher the operating temperature the higher the 
efficiency of the engine. Also less carbon build up in the cilinder 
head. Compare the stamped temperature figures on both thermostats.
The idea is that the temperature remains constant (more or less) at any 
load. If that is not so there is trouble in the cooling system, usually 
scale in the engine and or radiator on USA cars as often tap water has 
been used in the past instead of proper coolant.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I 
> pulled the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While 
> it did start opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and 
> the opening is limited.
> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think 
> the sleaved model was restricting flow.
>
> Jerry
> BJ8 _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 15 05:03:35 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 04:03:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] pittsburg grand-prix
Message-ID: <496534.9877.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

is anyone on the list going and does anyone know if there are any healeys running

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 08:59:19 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:59:19 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
Message-ID: <c75.55d0da2d.378f48c7@aol.com>

I have a sleeved thermostat & it seems to be working properly.  According 
to the Moss catalog there are two versions of this stat. Both are 160  
degree. One is for 4 to 7 Lb. radiator caps, as original. The other is for  
modified systems using caps rated for over 7 Lbs. I think I have the later,  even 
though I have a 7 Lb. cap. I thought I might put a higher pressure cap  on 
if I have over heating problems. So far, I haven't need to do  this. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2009 10:10:43 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net writes:

I wanted  to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I pulled 
the  sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While it did 
start  
opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and the opening is  
limited.
I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs  cooler.  I think the 
sleaved model was restricting  flow.

Jerry
BJ8  
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************Performance you need and the value you want! Check out great 
laptop deals from Dell! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081934x1201714279/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D819
39%2D1629%2D4)

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Jul 15 08:58:28 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 09:58:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D19E47671A7F4057AD8EFF944F4D540D@DANSTROM>

This begs for the question then of what is the temperature Healeys should
run at.  MY 64 BJ8 runs at 190-195F and after turned off goes to 212 and
percolates on hot days.  In traffic on hot days it runs hotter but cools
back to 190 as soon as I hit the highway.  Everyone seems so concerned about
getting their temperature down but I am not so sure 160-165 is better?

Dan
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:51 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion

my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
not stay in the radiator long enough.

i think they are wrong.
ron rader

1965 BJ8
1967 E type w 160 degree stat also

On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 8:02 PM, Jerry Costanzo
<grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
>
> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I pulled
the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While it did start
opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and the opening is
limited.
> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think the
sleaved model was restricting flow.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 15 09:00:49 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:00:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <AB5D4922-ABD6-4248-80D9-51E95C225199@sbcglobal.net>

The reason for the sleeved thermostat is to close off the water  
bypass that is made into the cylinder head. The bypass is there to  
allow the water to circulate when the thermostat is closed. Then when  
the engine is warm the sleeve closes off the bypass thus making all  
the water go thru the radiator.

Also remember the thermostat does not control the high end  
temperature. It is there to get the engine up to operating  
temperature as soon as possible. When the thermostat is open the  
engine temperature is now controlled by the radiator and fan.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Jul 14, 2009, at 8:02 PM, Jerry Costanzo wrote:

> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I  
> pulled the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.   
> While it did start opening at 160, it was not fully open till about  
> 185 and the opening is limited.
> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think  
> the sleaved model was restricting flow.
>
> Jerry
> BJ8 _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 09:02:46 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:02:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <4A5D8219.8080006@chello.nl>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<4A5D8219.8080006@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4A5DEF96.3050406@comcast.net>

re:
"It is not particularly a good thing that the engine is running cooler. The 
higher the operating temperature the higher the efficiency of the engine. Also 
less carbon build up in the cilinder head."


Plus, an engine needs to run hot enough to "boil" combustion byproducts--esp. 
water--out of the oil, else nasty acidic compounds will form (faster).

I was researching thermostats online and apparently, 195degF is considered 
'standard' for a Big Healey (makes sense for a car in England).


bs



Oudesluys wrote:
> The new replacement thermostat probably has a lower operating 
> temperature. It is not particularly a good thing that the engine is 
> running cooler. The higher the operating temperature the higher the 
> efficiency of the engine. Also less carbon build up in the cilinder 
> head. Compare the stamped temperature figures on both thermostats.
> The idea is that the temperature remains constant (more or less) at any 
> load. If that is not so there is trouble in the cooling system, usually 
> scale in the engine and or radiator on USA cars as often tap water has 
> been used in the past instead of proper coolant.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Jul 15 09:17:04 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 15:17:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?thermostats?=
Message-ID: <20090715151704.6938.qmail@server278.com>

i recently put a new "high efficiency" core in my radiator on the bj8.  i have a 190 thermostat and it stays at 190 as long as i am moving even on 108degree days.  at a stoplight it might go up to 210 but comes back down when i start moving again.  when i had a 160 thermostat, it never go below 200 on hot days, so i decided it was irrelevant.  hjim

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Wed Jul 15 09:48:26 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:48:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <D19E47671A7F4057AD8EFF944F4D540D@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <C683485A.331A%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

My BJ8 runs best at 190F.  At 170 - 180F it runs as if it is too cool,
carburetion is simply better at 190F.

Michael Hartfield


Dan Stromquistdan at warner-associates.com

> This begs for the question then of what is the temperature Healeys should
> run at.  MY 64 BJ8 runs at 190-195F and after turned off goes to 212 and
> percolates on hot days.  In traffic on hot days it runs hotter but cools
> back to 190 as soon as I hit the highway.  Everyone seems so concerned about
> getting their temperature down but I am not so sure 160-165 is better?
> 
> Dan
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
> Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:51 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
> 
> my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
> although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
> degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
> 180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
> the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
> thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
> not stay in the radiator long enough.
> 
> i think they are wrong.
> ron rader
> 
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E type w 160 degree stat also
> 
> On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 8:02 PM, Jerry Costanzo
> <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I pulled
> the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.  While it did start
> opening at 160, it was not fully open till about 185 and the opening is
> limited.
>> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think the
> sleaved model was restricting flow.
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 10:20:06 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 16:20:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] thermostats
In-Reply-To: <1714673796.1697581247674234518.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <80269347.1701951247674806525.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Same story with my BJ8 with Excel core, Texas Cooler and 180degF sleeved thermostat--180deg while moving, hotter while sitting at idle (on a cold day, she may not even get up to 180). Makes me believe getting air through the radiator and out of the engine compartment is key (I presume louvers, side vents and extra baffling would help). 

I did survive the long, steep westbound grade out of Death Valley on a hot day (115degF in the shade--I was hallucinating ;). We turned the heater on--no fun, but bought us about 5deg--and stayed under 212 (100deg C for the Old World) even though there were several cars--and a tour bus--on the side of the road with their bonnets up. 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 8:17:04 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] thermostats 

i recently put a new "high efficiency" core in my radiator on the bj8. i have a 190 thermostat and it stays at 190 as long as i am moving even on 108degree days. at a stoplight it might go up to 210 but comes back down when i start moving again. when i had a 160 thermostat, it never go below 200 on hot days, so i decided it was irrelevant. hjim 
_______________________________________________ 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 15 10:43:19 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:43:19 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <AB5D4922-ABD6-4248-80D9-51E95C225199@sbcglobal.net>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<AB5D4922-ABD6-4248-80D9-51E95C225199@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4A5E0727.8050607@chello.nl>

David,

I am afraid this is incorrect. The thermostat regulates the flow through 
the radiator to maintain a more or less constant operating temperature. 
It starts to open  at a set temperature, this is to warm up the engine 
quicker as the rad is bypassed when the coolant/engine temperature is 
below this temperature and the thermostat opens up fully when the 
temperature is a number of degrees higher. Ideally in a properly 
maintained engine, this higher temperature is never reached as coolant 
that was circulating through the radiator will cool the engine down 
again thus the thermostat will close a bit again. This continues untill 
an equlibrium is reached, at the proper operating temperature of the engine.
The temperature should be practically the same at 50mph or at 100mph
If under heavy load the engine temperature starts to rise considerably 
something is amiss with the cooling system (assuming engine, ignition, 
carbs are healthy and properly adjusted).

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


David Nock schreef:
>
> Also remember the thermostat does not control the high end  
> temperature. It is there to get the engine up to operating  
> temperature as soon as possible. When the thermostat is open the  
> engine temperature is now controlled by the radiator and fan.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> ..
> ..
>
> On Jul 14, 2009, at 8:02 PM, Jerry Costanzo wrote:
>
>   
>> I wanted to give some feedback on the thermostat/ heating issue.  I  
>> pulled the sleaved thermostat and tested it in a pot of water.   
>> While it did start opening at 160, it was not fully open till about  
>> 185 and the opening is limited.
>> I put in a modern Stant themostat and the car runs cooler.  I think  
>> the sleaved model was restricting flow.
>>
>> Jerry
>> BJ8 _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.15/2239 - Release Date: 07/15/09 06:07:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 15 10:47:33 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:47:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostats
In-Reply-To: <20090715151704.6938.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090715151704.6938.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4A5E0825.4050308@chello.nl>

This means that you have a correct set up, your temperature is on the 
operating temperature all the time and your cooling system has the 
required overcapacity or more.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef:
> i recently put a new "high efficiency" core in my radiator on the bj8.  i have a 190 thermostat and it stays at 190 as long as i am moving even on 108degree days.  at a stoplight it might go up to 210 but comes back down when i start moving again.  when i had a 160 thermostat, it never go below 200 on hot days, so i decided it was irrelevant.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.15/2239 - Release Date: 07/15/09 06:07:00

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 15:31:18 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 17:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
Message-ID: <E69E6229F0B840578E4F653764829417@universal1>

    I was approached by someone in Pittsburgh about a BJ-8 MKIII for sale in
Effingham (IL - I assume).

    Anyone know of a car that matches that very brief description?

    Thanks in advance, off-list please,

                                                                        CB

From design at soltec.net  Wed Jul 15 15:46:30 2009
From: design at soltec.net (Andrew Fell Architecture Design)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 23:46:30 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
In-Reply-To: <E69E6229F0B840578E4F653764829417@universal1>
Message-ID: <414986370.94811247694390421.JavaMail.root@white.riverwatcher.com>

I live in Champaign - about an hour and 15 minutes north of Effingham, and I go thru at least once a month.   I would be happy to have a look at the car if anyone would be interested.

Andrew Fell

----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 4:31:18 PM (GMT-0600) America/Chicago
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info

    I was approached by someone in Pittsburgh about a BJ-8 MKIII for sale in
Effingham (IL - I assume).

    Anyone know of a car that matches that very brief description?

    Thanks in advance, off-list please,

                                                                        CB
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as design at soltec.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jamesfwerner at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 15:46:37 2009
From: jamesfwerner at gmail.com (jim werner)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 17:46:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
In-Reply-To: <E69E6229F0B840578E4F653764829417@universal1>
References: <E69E6229F0B840578E4F653764829417@universal1>
Message-ID: <1e40548a0907151446u7387ed99k680997caf0732ab1@mail.gmail.com>

Might be this one

http://www.67austinhealey.com/

He is doing an email blitz.

Jim Werner

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 5:31 PM, Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net> wrote:

>    I was approached by someone in Pittsburgh about a BJ-8 MKIII for sale in
> Effingham (IL - I assume).
>
>    Anyone know of a car that matches that very brief description?
>
>    Thanks in advance, off-list please,
>
>                                                                        CB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jamesfwerner at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Jul 15 15:57:05 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:57:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
In-Reply-To: <E69E6229F0B840578E4F653764829417@universal1>
Message-ID: <20090715175705.FIQJM.1881623.root@mp07>

I also received a message asking me to find a buyer.


---- Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net> wrote: 
>     I was approached by someone in Pittsburgh about a BJ-8 MKIII for sale in
> Effingham (IL - I assume).
> 
>     Anyone know of a car that matches that very brief description?
> 
>     Thanks in advance, off-list please,
> 
>                                                                         CB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Jul 15 16:25:46 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 23:25:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
References: <071320091656.14477.4A5B67360002A0900000388D223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <47FBBF89A78940998EB15CBE3BEF84E4@dell330>

To add to the usual problems, if you remove the diaphragm and blow an 
airline into the body of the pump along the central hole you may find a 
large quantity of rust and muck that will slow the pump down and eventually 
stop it.  I had one that would seize after a couple of days 'rest' and doing 
this cured it for the next 3 years 'till I sold the motor.  If you strip the 
body down to component parts it is an easier but more time consuming job to 
clean it thoroughly.  If you do, paint a little clear varnish on the inside 
of the body to seal it.
Do not look along the hole as you squirt compressed air down it and be 
prepared for a quantity of muck that looks as if it came from something 10 
times the size!.  If you don't have a compressor, use a footpump with a 
length of screen wash tube clipped into the connector.

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump


> I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used. 
> If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean 
> the points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory 
> manual and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized 
> experts. Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended 
> period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas 
> appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________

From austinbj8 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 15 16:47:02 2009
From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 15:47:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale
Message-ID: <965581.88927.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am selling off the rest of my big Healey stuff( sorry no list available) for
specific wants send me an e/m off list.
The item that I currently have for sale is a Payen Head Gasket Set, ( part #
CD891 ) and a
valve cover gasket. Both items being sold as a package.  Thanks very much,
John Gillespie

From johnlink1 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 15 16:51:11 2009
From: johnlink1 at comcast.net (John Linkosky)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:51:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
Message-ID: <001201ca059e$c20fafa0$462f0ee0$@net>

I will be there, but with an MGB on Saturday and AC MKIV on Sunday. I
imagine Tom Felts will be there. There are usually a couple of healeys
running in the postwar sportscar class. John

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Wed Jul 15 16:16:21 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 15:16:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net><ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com><4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl><296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330><4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl><BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<AB5D4922-ABD6-4248-80D9-51E95C225199@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000001ca05a1$1deac880$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

It looks like this discussion is getting "hot".   I think David's comment
below is how we want the sleeved unit to work.  The one I bought is set to
open at 160,  but does not open much.  The sleeve itself never moves and based
on measurements,  would not change the bypass.   I don't remember where I
bought it but I think it is defective.  The car stays close to 185-195
yesterday after replacement with the Stant and it was 102 outside.  The Stant
allows more water to move.  I know we don't want it to move to fast through
the radiator, but too slow is also not good.

Jerry
BJ8


  The reason for the sleeved thermostat is to close off the water bypass that
is made into the cylinder head. The bypass is there to allow the water to
circulate when the thermostat is closed. Then when the engine is warm the
sleeve closes off the bypass thus making all the water go thru the radiator.


  Also remember the thermostat does not control the high end temperature. It
is there to get the engine up to operating temperature as soon as possible.
When the thermostat is open the engine temperature is now controlled by the
radiator and fan.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 17:11:13 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:11:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
In-Reply-To: <20090715175705.FIQJM.1881623.root@mp07>
References: <20090715175705.FIQJM.1881623.root@mp07>
Message-ID: <7610C5E576C440D6A613320743EB44F3@GregPC>

One of the club members got the 3000 note and posted it to our message 
board, must be quite a blitz--anybody know anything about the car/seller 
Greg Lemon 

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 15 17:26:48 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 23:26:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
Message-ID: <BAY112-W45A9DFFADED3161BC7C22CB5200@phx.gbl>

I finally have my '59 BN4 back on the road with everything working except the
overdrive.  I checked the electrical side of things and it works fine.
Solenoid engages and operating lever is adjusted correctly. I moved on to the
hydraulics. I removed the operating valve and ran the engine in gear. I
discovered that no oil was being pumped into the valve chamber. The gearbox
was rebuilt by a friend who has worked on many British gearboxes. The
overdrive was not disturbed because it had been working perfectly previously.
The problem that prompted the rebuild was jumping out of gear.
It has been suggested that when the gearbox and overdrive were reassembled,
perhaps the oil pump cam was installed backwards. To check this I removed the
oil drain plug, strainer and the plug that screws into the oil pump body. I
then inserted a screwdriver against the oil pump plunger. I hoped it was stuck
in its lowest position. I tapped upwards but got a very solid clunk. The
plunger spring seems to be doing its job of forcing the plunger up. With the
screwdriver against the plunger I turned the right rear wheel. I thought that
if the cam was installed correctly I should feel the oil pump plunger moving
up and down as the cam rotates. I can feel just barely perceptible movement -
which to me indicates the plunger is not in contact with the cam. Am I
correct? How much movement of the plunger should there be? Am I going to have
to pull the gearbox to reinstall the oil pump cam right way round?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Rick Swain

_________________________________________________________________
We are your photos. Share us now with Windows Live Photos.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Jul 15 17:26:45 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 19:26:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
Message-ID: <cb8.4fd773fe.378fbfb5@aol.com>

Hi John--  

There are a number of 100's entered  in Group 5--for an entry list go to:
 

_http://pvgp2.schoolwires.net/6746981220111824/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=
2000&BCOB=0&C=53223_ 
(http://pvgp2.schoolwires.net/6746981220111824/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&C=53223) 
 
I will be driving a white Elva  Courier in Group 4 (Under two liters) and 
will be set up in the paddock at  or alongside Michael Clifford's rig which 
has blue and white striped  awning.  Please come by and say hello.
 
Best--Michael  Oritt


 
 
**************Performance you need and the value you want! Check out great 
laptop deals from Dell! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081934x1201714279/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D819
39%2D1629%2D4)

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 18:06:25 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:06:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info
In-Reply-To: <7610C5E576C440D6A613320743EB44F3@GregPC>
References: <20090715175705.FIQJM.1881623.root@mp07>
	<7610C5E576C440D6A613320743EB44F3@GregPC>
Message-ID: <002801ca05a9$431a00f0$c94e02d0$@rr.com>

The car may have a record in the BJ8 Registry, but not under the guy who is
selling it.  Have to have a VIN to know if the car has a history.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 7:11 PM
To: bighealey at charter.net; Charley Braum; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] For Sale Info

One of the club members got the 3000 note and posted it to our message 
board, must be quite a blitz--anybody know anything about the car/seller 
Greg Lemon 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 18:39:47 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002a01ca05ad$ec62f5f0$c528e1d0$@rr.com>

If the argument is that the water flows too fast through the radiator for
the rad to cool it, then it should also be flowing too fast through the
engine to pick up its normal load of heat, yes?  So the faster the coolant
flows, the less it cools?  I think something is wrong with the
thermodynamics here.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  UsA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 1:51 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion

my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
not stay in the radiator long enough.

i think they are wrong.
ron rader

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Jul 15 18:50:22 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:50:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W45A9DFFADED3161BC7C22CB5200@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY112-W45A9DFFADED3161BC7C22CB5200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003301ca05af$672f01b0$358d0510$@com>

Hi Rick, 
That is exactly the check that I use to determine if the pump plunger is
moving up and down correctly. It normally moves about 3/16 - 1/4" and I
suspect your diagnosis is correct.
Unfortunately there really is no option but to remove the gearbox. I have
actually removed an overdrive unit with the gearbox in situ but it was
really difficult to reassemble and not worth the trouble.
If you remove the overdrive pump, be sure to remove the non return valve
first, you can actually see the cam. May be worth the trouble to confirm
your diagnosis. Reinstalling the pump can be a bit of a pain without the
correct guide screws. 
Good luck. 

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick Swain
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 7:27 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem

I finally have my '59 BN4 back on the road with everything working except
the
overdrive.  I checked the electrical side of things and it works fine.
Solenoid engages and operating lever is adjusted correctly. I moved on to
the
hydraulics. I removed the operating valve and ran the engine in gear. I
discovered that no oil was being pumped into the valve chamber. The gearbox
was rebuilt by a friend who has worked on many British gearboxes. The
overdrive was not disturbed because it had been working perfectly
previously.
The problem that prompted the rebuild was jumping out of gear.
It has been suggested that when the gearbox and overdrive were reassembled,
perhaps the oil pump cam was installed backwards. To check this I removed
the
oil drain plug, strainer and the plug that screws into the oil pump body. I
then inserted a screwdriver against the oil pump plunger. I hoped it was
stuck
in its lowest position. I tapped upwards but got a very solid clunk. The
plunger spring seems to be doing its job of forcing the plunger up. With the
screwdriver against the plunger I turned the right rear wheel. I thought
that
if the cam was installed correctly I should feel the oil pump plunger moving
up and down as the cam rotates. I can feel just barely perceptible movement
-
which to me indicates the plunger is not in contact with the cam. Am I
correct? How much movement of the plunger should there be? Am I going to
have
to pull the gearbox to reinstall the oil pump cam right way round?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Rick Swain

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jul 15 19:10:47 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:10:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
In-Reply-To: <cb8.4fd773fe.378fbfb5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090715201047.MSDM0.961388.root@ispmxfep14-z01>

Hope to roam over and visit with you also.  

Cheers
tom 
---- Awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 
> Hi John--  
> 
> There are a number of 100's entered  in Group 5--for an entry list go to:
>  
> 
> _http://pvgp2.schoolwires.net/6746981220111824/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=
> 2000&BCOB=0&C=53223_ 
> (http://pvgp2.schoolwires.net/6746981220111824/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&C=53223) 
>  
> I will be driving a white Elva  Courier in Group 4 (Under two liters) and 
> will be set up in the paddock at  or alongside Michael Clifford's rig which 
> has blue and white striped  awning.  Please come by and say hello.
>  
> Best--Michael  Oritt
> 
> 
>  
>  
> **************Performance you need and the value you want! Check out great 
> laptop deals from Dell! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081934x1201714279/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D819
> 39%2D1629%2D4)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jul 15 19:23:42 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 20:23:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
In-Reply-To: <001201ca059e$c20fafa0$462f0ee0$@net>
Message-ID: <20090715202342.UAZKH.961593.root@ispmxfep14-z01>

Hi John---yes, I'll be there.  I've been off list for about three weeks so missed a lot of discussion.  

Heard there was a thread on Ed recently.  Is he still on the list?

tom 
---- John Linkosky <johnlink1 at comcast.net> wrote: 
> I will be there, but with an MGB on Saturday and AC MKIV on Sunday. I
> imagine Tom Felts will be there. There are usually a couple of healeys
> running in the postwar sportscar class. John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eddog at sympatico.ca  Wed Jul 15 21:03:07 2009
From: eddog at sympatico.ca (john f barron)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 23:03:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] steering box worm gear question
References: <COL106-W13E463CFB82639ABD8163C0200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP33B66A24CB7BB18EBA71EBDC210@phx.gbl>

The last 3 numbers look like dates of manufacture
                                                                 John Barron
                                                                      BJ7, 
BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "richard mayor" <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 2:33 AM
Subject: [Healeys] steering box worm gear question


> Greetings Listmates,  I have a question for the group regarding early 3000
> steering boxes. I have one box where a previous owner cut off the worm
> gear/steering shaft about 5 inches above the box.  The part # is 16097 9 
> 58. I
> have a donor shaft that has a part # of 16097 11 59. The donor worm
> gear/steering shaft seems to work OK as I do a bench assembly. However, I 
> have
> learned from past experience that working smooth on the bench is not the 
> same
> as working smooth under load in the car. Does anyone know what these part
> numbers mean? The first 5 numbers are the same - but the last 3 are 
> different.
> Is this a distinction without a difference?
> Richard Mayor
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eddog at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 15 23:27:21 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 22:27:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
References: <BAY112-W45A9DFFADED3161BC7C22CB5200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FEE79997C7C04321AF576B7B7FAD543E@XPS400>

It may not be the pump but the cam that is installed backwards.  When I 
rebuild my gearbox (the first one I ever rebuilt) I somehow managed to 
replace the cam back on the shaft facing the wrong way.  The cam was turning 
but the top of the pump piston was not ridding on the cam surface but along 
the edge.  I had to pull the gearbox apart to remove the cam and turn it 
around on the shaft.  If you don't pay very close attention to the position 
of the cam it is easy to put in on backwards.

Ron
61BN7


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Swain" <rjswain at hotmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 4:26 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem


>I finally have my '59 BN4 back on the road with everything working except 
>the
> overdrive.  I checked the electrical side of things and it works fine.
> Solenoid engages and operating lever is adjusted correctly. I moved on to 
> the
> hydraulics. I removed the operating valve and ran the engine in gear. I
> discovered that no oil was being pumped into the valve chamber. The 
> gearbox
> was rebuilt by a friend who has worked on many British gearboxes. The
> overdrive was not disturbed because it had been working perfectly 
> previously.
> The problem that prompted the rebuild was jumping out of gear.
> It has been suggested that when the gearbox and overdrive were 
> reassembled,
> perhaps the oil pump cam was installed backwards. To check this I removed 
> the
> oil drain plug, strainer and the plug that screws into the oil pump body. 
> I
> then inserted a screwdriver against the oil pump plunger. I hoped it was 
> stuck
> in its lowest position. I tapped upwards but got a very solid clunk. The
> plunger spring seems to be doing its job of forcing the plunger up. With 
> the
> screwdriver against the plunger I turned the right rear wheel. I thought 
> that
> if the cam was installed correctly I should feel the oil pump plunger 
> moving
> up and down as the cam rotates. I can feel just barely perceptible 
> movement -
> which to me indicates the plunger is not in contact with the cam. Am I
> correct? How much movement of the plunger should there be? Am I going to 
> have
> to pull the gearbox to reinstall the oil pump cam right way round?
> Thanks for any help or advice.
> Rick Swain

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul 16 00:10:52 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:10:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <002a01ca05ad$ec62f5f0$c528e1d0$@rr.com>
References: <003201c9fcbf$0f1be810$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<ff59076c0907041707v3003461axf87ff54a13faf0da@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A506E79.2000301@chello.nl>
	<296AB5364E7D4DC3A3288457B6E55899@dell330>
	<4A5087DE.4040203@chello.nl>
	<BAD6B2D569B64C3EAB164D8CB007DDB4@dell330>
	<000301c9fd74$b08d8c70$11a8a550$@com>
	<002701ca04f8$a1e684c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<5caeedb50907142250w3883e45ciceb35fece30967db@mail.gmail.com>
	<002a01ca05ad$ec62f5f0$c528e1d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A5EC46C.2080805@chello.nl>

Steve,
The total flow of coolant is more or less the same at a given engine 
speed. At all times all the coolant is passed through the engine.When 
the engine is cold most coolant will be circulated through the by-pass 
and only a trickle through the radiator. At the opening temperature of 
the thermostat more coolant will start to flow through the radiator and 
less through the by-pass. When the coolant gets hotter the thermostat 
will open further allowing more coolant to flow through the radiator and 
even less through the bypass. However if all is in good nick the 
thermostat will never open fully except possibly when idling for a long 
period, when it is not unusual for the coolant temperature to rise above 
normal or even over boiling point. That is why ideally you should  fit a 
thermostaticly controlled electric fan to the radiator if you are 
traveling in modern traffic(jams).
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


BJ8 Healeys schreef:
> If the argument is that the water flows too fast through the radiator for
> the rad to cool it, then it should also be flowing too fast through the
> engine to pick up its normal load of heat, yes?  So the faster the coolant
> flows, the less it cools?  I think something is wrong with the
> thermodynamics here.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  UsA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
> Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 1:51 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
>
> my apologies. i miss the first part of this thread.
> although my BJ8 runs at 165 on the hottest days in traffic with a 160
> degree thermostat my 1966 Mustang (with ALL new parts) runs between
> 180 and 200 because i have a 180 degree thermostat.
> the shop that works on it insists that i should not change to a 160
> thermostat because it wont make it run cooler because the water does
> not stay in the radiator long enough.
>
> i think they are wrong.
> ron rader
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 06:45:09 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:45:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
Message-ID: <c58.4a618f0e.37907ad5@aol.com>

>From this description, it seems that a sleeved thermostat when operating  
correctly would result in better cooling than a non-sleeved stat. Does anyone 
 sell a fixed position sleeve to blank off the bypass when using a  
non-sleeved type of stat? I assume the danger with this approach would  be that hot 
spots would form in the water jacket without water circulating while  the 
stat is closed.
Gary Hodson   
 
 
In a message dated 7/15/2009 6:08:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net writes:

The  bypass is there to allow the water to
circulate when the thermostat is  closed. Then when the engine is warm the
sleeve closes off the bypass thus  making all the water go thru the  
radiator.


**************S T R E T C H  your technology dollars with great laptop 
deals from Dell! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223081712x1201714210/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2
D5)

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 06:53:05 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 08:53:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
Message-ID: <bd9.37d4eb38.37907cb1@aol.com>

It is also possible the install cam correctly but not get the oil pump  
roller correctly riding on the cam lobe. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/15/2009 7:53:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
msalter at precisionsportscar.com writes:

if the  cam was installed correctly I should feel the oil pump plunger 
moving
up  and down as the cam rotates. I can feel just barely perceptible  
movement


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deals from Dell! 
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D5)

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Thu Jul 16 08:30:20 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 15:30:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gel filled batteries
Message-ID: <000701ca0621$f3752ab0$da5f8010$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Many thanks for all the help and advice regarding the above. I shall have a
go this weekend.
Much appreciated,
Simon.

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 10:20:16 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:20:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - Part 1
Message-ID: <004e01ca0631$4e6beb20$eb43c160$@rr.com>

Kees, I understand how cooling systems work, but your reply doesn't address
the point that "going to a 160 thermostat will allow the coolant to flow too
fast through the radiator to cool it."  That is what I was responding to.  
 
Your arguments about the thermostat seem to be based on modern automotive
cooling systems that have the capability overcool the engine, and thereby
(with the influence of the thermostat) regulate the coolant temperature to a
more or less constant stabilized value.  Thus, the temp gauge on a modern
car seems unaffected by ambient conditions -- heat of the day, level of
traffic, quantity of traffic lights, use of air conditioner, etc.
My experience with my Healey is that the temperature of the coolant (as
displayed on the gauge) depends very closely on ambient conditions.  It has
been that way in the 25 years I've owned the car, even after a complete
engine rebuild and a new radiator.
I have a 180-deg. thermostat.  I can leave home pre-dawn on a long cruise
and the gauge will hold steady at 180 - 190 until the sun comes up.  The
gauge will show a rise to somewhere above 190 until the heat of the day,
when on a really hot day it can approach 200 at cruise.  During our return
across the California desert last summer (ambient temps 115 - 118), the car
ran at 212 on the gauge.  I can drop the temperatures on my gauge 10 degrees
temporarily just by coasting down a long hill.  With a 180 (or any other)
thermostat, once the coolant temperature goes above that due to ambient
conditions, the thermostat has no further ability to affect the coolant
temperature.
 
Part 2 to follow.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl]
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 2:11 AM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
 
Steve,
The total flow of coolant is more or less the same at a given engine speed.
At all times all the coolant is passed through the engine.When the engine is
cold most coolant will be circulated through the by-pass and only a trickle
through the radiator....

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 10:24:51 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 12:24:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - Part 2
Message-ID: <005301ca0631$f250dbb0$d6f29310$@rr.com>

I am not convinced that Big Healey cooling systems have the capability to
"overcool" the engine.  The system was not designed to a gnat's eyebrow by
computers, and most parts came out of the BMC parts bin and were not
designed specifically for the car.  The close quarters of the engine bay and
the marginal size of the radiator made such modifications as fender vents
and bonnet louvers necessary even on the works cars and are still being
installed in an effort to get the heat out of the engine bay.  
 
By the way, the factory parts manual lists a blanking sleeve to close off
the bypass "For use in extremely hot climates in lieu of thermostat".
Apparently, the factory didn't consider leaving the thermostat out would
cause the coolant to flow too fast for the radiator to cool it.
 
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From medlabinc at msn.com  Thu Jul 16 11:04:22 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:04:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  thermostat discussion - Part 2
Message-ID: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>

Hi Steve:

     With some possible exceptions my guess is that the field experience
you've had with Bj8 coolant temperatures - described in your posts to the list
parts 1 & 2 - is typical.

     I wonder how many temp gauges have been checked - verify the needle is
indicating 212F in boiling water/altitude factored in.  That would be another
good starting point to diagnose a possible heating issue.

Dick Matson / Bj8



----- Original Message -----
From: BJ8 Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - Part 2


I am not convinced that Big Healey cooling systems have the capability to
"overcool" the engine.  The system was not designed to a gnat's eyebrow by
computers, and most parts came out of the BMC parts bin and were not
designed specifically for the car.  The close quarters of the engine bay and
the marginal size of the radiator made such modifications as fender vents
and bonnet louvers necessary even on the works cars and are still being
installed in an effort to get the heat out of the engine bay.

By the way, the factory parts manual lists a blanking sleeve to close off
the bypass "For use in extremely hot climates in lieu of thermostat".
Apparently, the factory didn't consider leaving the thermostat out would
cause the coolant to flow too fast for the radiator to cool it.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
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http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

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From medlabinc at msn.com  Thu Jul 16 11:06:37 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:06:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat discussion - Part 2
Message-ID: <COL109-DS16F4713C190145E9DEF574A2210@phx.gbl>

Hi Steve:

     With some possible exceptions my guess is that the field experience
you've had with Bj8 coolant temperatures - described in your posts to the list
parts 1 & 2 - is typical.

     I wonder how many temp gauges have been checked - verify the needle is
indicating 212F in boiling water/altitude factored in.  That would be another
good starting point to diagnose a possible heating issue.

Dick Matson / Bj8



----- Original Message -----
From: BJ8 Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - Part 2


I am not convinced that Big Healey cooling systems have the capability to
"overcool" the engine.  The system was not designed to a gnat's eyebrow by
computers, and most parts came out of the BMC parts bin and were not
designed specifically for the car.  The close quarters of the engine bay and
the marginal size of the radiator made such modifications as fender vents
and bonnet louvers necessary even on the works cars and are still being
installed in an effort to get the heat out of the engine bay.

By the way, the factory parts manual lists a blanking sleeve to close off
the bypass "For use in extremely hot climates in lieu of thermostat".
Apparently, the factory didn't consider leaving the thermostat out would
cause the coolant to flow too fast for the radiator to cool it.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Thu Jul 16 12:05:37 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:05:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Paint
Message-ID: <E56265BD43D644D5A4731904DFEC5772@tm>

Hello,

Does anyone know if the engine paint sold by AH Spares is close to original
color?

Thanks, Tadek

From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jul 16 12:28:32 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:28:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
In-Reply-To: <bd9.37d4eb38.37907cb1@aol.com>
References: <bd9.37d4eb38.37907cb1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBD45A5B5E6C49-2200-1C53@webmailalpo-m07.sysops.aol.com>

True but the result is usually a jammed up OD, nicked pump roller or a 
bent pump shaft. This is where the reassembly instructions mentioning 
that if the OD doesn't easily slide home when tightening the two nuts 
on the long studs, STOP.  One of those memories that made a gearbox 
rebuild much more expensive. I leave the pump out now days and install 
after the OD and gearbox are mated.
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Warthodson at aol.com
To: msalter at precisionsportscar.com; rjswain at hotmail.com; 
healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 16, 2009 2:53 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem



It is also possible the install cam correctly but not get the oil pump
roller correctly riding on the cam lobe.
Gary Hodson

From Waschu2 at charter.net  Thu Jul 16 14:54:16 2009
From: Waschu2 at charter.net (Wayne)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:54:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lempert gears
Message-ID: <4A5F9378.7080404@charter.net>

Hello,


            I bought a 3:5 gear set from Mike a couple of years ago and 
recently installed my gear set in a friends car with a Toyota five speed 
(awesome combination).  Question is what is the current cost to replace 
the gears? I know Mike is trying to get another set out this year and I 
would like to get on his list to replace mine.


                                                                 Wayne

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 17:22:39 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:22:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>

I am certainly not a thermodynamics expert, but my experience with Healeys 
and other British cars is consitent with Steve's the thermostat serves to 
bring the engine up to operating temp faster, but once there the inherent 
limits of the cooling system capacity and ambient temp determine temp not 
the thermostat.

In fact for those of us that drove the cars around in temparate climates 
year round back in the day, the thermostat switch from winter to summer 
served the purpose of warming the car up faster and and getting a little 
warmer "mouse breath" out of the heater in the winter, and not to keep the 
car cooler in the summer.  And through my own use and experience I found out 
swapping from the 195 or 180 "winter" thermostat to the 160 degree "summer" 
thermostat did not make the car run any cooler in the summer, but the winter 
thermostat made the car run warmer and better (and a warmer heater!) in the 
winter.

Greg Lemon

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Jul 16 17:30:45 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:30:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
	<9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>
Message-ID: <063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>

Thermostats set the low end of the temp range, and the amount allowed  
to flow through them can have an effect on the top end--depending on  
how well they flow while open.

In Healeys I've always found that you can't flow too much though the  
radiator. It will always be maxed out and wanting more. Here in CA I  
don't have to wait long for the engine to get up to good running temp  
even without a thermostat. Modern or extra cores certainly help.

I run a pressurized system with a recovery tank.

Wilko
San Diego

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 18:06:09 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:06:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS16F4713C190145E9DEF574A2210@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS16F4713C190145E9DEF574A2210@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <006801ca0672$63857710$2a906530$@rr.com>

Dick, I did have a problem with my engine constantly running "hot" during my
trip to Lake Tahoe and back in '02.  The gauge had been rebuilt just prior
to that and I would have thought it would be calibrated.  But after the
aggravation experienced on the Tahoe trip I decided to bite the bullet and
pull the gauge out of the car to check it with the sensor in boiling water.
I found the gauge was reading about 10 - 12 degrees too high, so I
recalibrated it by pulling off the needle and repositioning it between the
two little dots at 212 (I live at sea level).  Most of my "overheating"
problems were then solved.  But I still see the gauge push toward 200 on a
warm afternoon in the summer around here, and the gauge will vary with the
ambient conditions, as it always has.  
When we were coming across the California desert last summer, returning from
Conclave in San Diego, the ambient temperature was 115F - 118F.  For hours,
my BJ8 ran at 212 on the gauge, but never went over that.  Actually,
comparing that with modern cars that run a much higher pressure in the
cooling system and some with normal operating temp of 212 and up, the Healey
didn't do too badly.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dick Matson
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 1:07 PM
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat discussion - Part 2

Hi Steve:

     With some possible exceptions my guess is that the field experience
you've had with Bj8 coolant temperatures - described in your posts to the
list
parts 1 & 2 - is typical.

     I wonder how many temp gauges have been checked - verify the needle is
indicating 212F in boiling water/altitude factored in.  That would be
another
good starting point to diagnose a possible heating issue.

Dick Matson / Bj8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 19:50:48 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 09:50:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
	<9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>
	<063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907161850rf6daadct68a83244d5b0d20a@mail.gmail.com>

I run three classics in the very hot tropical heat of Hong Kong, and my
experience is as follows:

1) High coolant flow is important, but will not make a difference if the
rest of your system is stock and definitely if it is compromised through
scale or rust.
2) The best solution is to increase radiator capacity, which will then slow
down the increased coolant flow.  The result will be a much cooler running
car.
3) Your standard narrow throat thermostat is not up to the job for a hot
climate like Hong Kong.  I've used them and my cars always overheat when I
do.
4) Using a higher percentage of water to coolant makes a big difference
5) I have discovered that probably the most important thing is getting alot
of air flow over the radiator.  Not all radiator fans are the same, and with
time I have learned that high performance radiator fans can make a huge
difference.  I have a SPAL high performance fan on both the A90 and the Mk
IX, both cars run in 95 deg, 100% humidity bumper to bumper traffic like it
was a cold winter's day.
6) getting under bonnet temps down makes a huge difference too.  Jet Hot
coatings on headers and downpipes seem to make the most difference, I have
found!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Jul 16 19:56:02 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:56:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: thermostat discussion - Part 2
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl><9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC><063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0907161850rf6daadct68a83244d5b0d20a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EB0CC2F8E2AD407585BE5D2793B434DD@your4dacd0ea75>

Alan , with all that fan power will the air flow be too fast for heat 
exchange ?

 :^)
Dallas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>
Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: thermostat discussion - Part 2


>I run three classics in the very hot tropical heat of Hong Kong, and my
> experience is as follows:
>
> 1) High coolant flow is important, but will not make a difference if the
> rest of your system is stock and definitely if it is compromised through
> scale or rust.
> 2) The best solution is to increase radiator capacity, which will then 
> slow
> down the increased coolant flow.  The result will be a much cooler running
> car.
> 3) Your standard narrow throat thermostat is not up to the job for a hot
> climate like Hong Kong.  I've used them and my cars always overheat when I
> do.
> 4) Using a higher percentage of water to coolant makes a big difference
> 5) I have discovered that probably the most important thing is getting 
> alot
> of air flow over the radiator.  Not all radiator fans are the same, and 
> with
> time I have learned that high performance radiator fans can make a huge
> difference.  I have a SPAL high performance fan on both the A90 and the Mk
> IX, both cars run in 95 deg, 100% humidity bumper to bumper traffic like 
> it
> was a cold winter's day.
> 6) getting under bonnet temps down makes a huge difference too.  Jet Hot
> coatings on headers and downpipes seem to make the most difference, I have
> found!
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 20:05:26 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:05:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <EB0CC2F8E2AD407585BE5D2793B434DD@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
	<9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>
	<063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0907161850rf6daadct68a83244d5b0d20a@mail.gmail.com>
	<EB0CC2F8E2AD407585BE5D2793B434DD@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907161905o3d6f067amed153c47f135207a@mail.gmail.com>

Dallas -

Not sure if you are joking with me so here goes:

The cooling system is a closed system so it is sensitive to rate of coolant
flow.  Too fast, it won't cool enough in the radiator, too slow it keeps the
hot fluid in the motor too long.

The radiator's heat exchanger is an open system, so the more cool air you
get over it the better.  If you put your healey radiator on the top of a
Saturn 5 rocket, for example, it would help it to keep your Healey very nice
and cool, well at least before it ends up in space.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com
> wrote:

> Alan , with all that fan power will the air flow be too fast for heat
> exchange ?
>
> :^)
> Dallas

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Jul 16 20:28:09 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 02:28:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?o/d_oil_pump?=
Message-ID: <20090717022809.3133.qmail@server278.com>

when i disassemble the o/d on the bn6 during the restoration, i immedietly notice the oil pump stuck down and locked.  had to take the pump out, straighten out the shaft and replace.  this was due to an idiot putting the o/d and trans together without rotating the end of the shaft to make sure the oil pump was seated on the cam properly.  you can feel it "thunk" into place and i never tighten the nuts until the o/d adapter is  flush with the trans.  otherwise  REAL TROUBLE.    hjim

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 21:14:38 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:14:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907161905o3d6f067amed153c47f135207a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL109-DS16CC071BA5EC83B70317F0A2210@phx.gbl>
	<9B6808BB9FAE4018B15446AC0501CF0B@GregPC>
	<063501D7-EFC6-4058-812A-DA9329CC946F@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0907161850rf6daadct68a83244d5b0d20a@mail.gmail.com>
	<EB0CC2F8E2AD407585BE5D2793B434DD@your4dacd0ea75>
	<ff59076c0907161905o3d6f067amed153c47f135207a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <751d05480907162014x3c28cef9nc6887269abe733a6@mail.gmail.com>

Alan

I believe the symbol at the end of  Dallas' post  *:^)* is "Tongue in
cheek."

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 7:05 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dallas -
>
> Not sure if you are joking with me so here goes:
>
> The cooling system is a closed system so it is sensitive to rate of coolant
> flow.  Too fast, it won't cool enough in the radiator, too slow it keeps
> the
> hot fluid in the motor too long.
>
> The radiator's heat exchanger is an open system, so the more cool air you
> get over it the better.  If you put your healey radiator on the top of a
> Saturn 5 rocket, for example, it would help it to keep your Healey very
> nice
> and cool, well at least before it ends up in space.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Dallas Congleton <
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> > Alan , with all that fan power will the air flow be too fast for heat
> > exchange ?
> >
> > :^)
> > Dallas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 23:24:50 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:24:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
Message-ID: <5caeedb50907162224y408e7d6dm7150abc1ae31d99@mail.gmail.com>

Listers:
since i posed the question relative to my new 1966 Mustang....

my 1965 Healey and my 1967 E type FHC both have 165 degree thermostats.
both have new radiators and new water pumps.
the E type with A/C has an electric fan and the BJ8 has a "desert" fan.

both keep the water very cool.
both have 50 / 50 water and anti freeze
they run about 165 no matter how hot it gets.
both seem to run strong.
neither over heats, even the E type which is black, with the A/C on in
100 degree weather.
so i think i am going to switch my mustang back to a 165 'stat and see
what happens.

ron rader
 LAX

1965 BJ8 BRG
1966 Mustang GT 350 H - black
1967 E type FHC - black

On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 6:50 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I run three classics in the very hot tropical heat of Hong Kong, and my
> experience is as follows:

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 23:30:03 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:30:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - part 2
Message-ID: <5caeedb50907162230u2c713b90tf107dada4ca8d1e8@mail.gmail.com>

I forgot to mention.
both have rebuilt water pumps.
both have jet hot on the exhaust manifold.
both have the lower exhaust pipes 'wrapped'
both have new radiators either aluminum or four core.
ron

On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 10:24 PM, F Ronald Rader
<f.ronald.rader at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Listers:
> since i posed the question relative to my new 1966 Mustang....
>
> my 1965 Healey and my 1967 E type FHC both have 165 degree thermostats.
> both have new radiators and new water pumps.
> the E type with A/C has an electric fan and the BJ8 has a "desert" fan.
>
> both keep the water very cool.
> both have 50 / 50 water and anti freeze
> they run about 165 no matter how hot it gets.
> both seem to run strong.
> neither over heats, even the E type which is black, with the A/C on in
> 100 degree weather.
> so i think i am going to switch my mustang back to a 165 'stat and see
> what happens.
>
> ron rader
>  LAX
>
> 1965 BJ8 BRG
> 1966 Mustang GT 350 H - black
> 1967 E type FHC - black
>
> On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 6:50 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
wrote:
> >
> > I run three classics in the very hot tropical heat of Hong Kong, and my
> > experience is as follows:

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Jul 17 03:09:10 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 19:09:10 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cooling. Thermostats. Radiator Caps. Overheating. Texas
 Coolers. Water Wetta. ad in finitem.
Message-ID: <AA87380174B14509AD01BA023FDC3E0C@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

How much longer can all this go on for?

 

Anyone who has owned an Austin-Healey for more than 5 minutes will know that
at best its cooling is very marginal. Even when new they ran hot. Trying to
equate a 50 + year old design to modern cooling systems is quite frankly,
farcical. For anyone to equate old and new, just doesn't know
Austin-Healeys.

 

The solution is to ensure that you have maximum coolant flowing through the
engine/radiator at the same time as there is maximum air flow through the
radiator. The job of the thermostat is to ensure that the engine warms up
quickly and in correctly maintained cooling systems doesn't drop below its
setting. Too bad overflow tanks were never fitted as original as these
ensure that the maximum water stays in the system.

 

How did BMC cope with the extra heat being produced during the evolution of
the six-cylinder Austin-Healey?????? Increasing the pressure of the radiator
cap. Have a look at the parts list and you will see that the part number for
the BN4 radiator is exactly the same as the BJ8. The only difference is the
radiator cap.

 

Saw a BT7 MKII once that had a BMC Mini radiator plumbed in between the
bottom radiator outlet and the engine. Worked well! 

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From twillig at ruda.de  Fri Jul 17 03:49:48 2009
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:49:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Paint
References: <E56265BD43D644D5A4731904DFEC5772@tm>
Message-ID: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D3B@dw01.ruda.local>

Hi Tadek,

yes, the current paint from A-H Spares is very similar to the original. I have
just painted the gearbox on my BN2 and it matches the original color well. The
paint is easy to work with and can be spray painted (that's what I did), after
diluting it with thinner.

Regards


Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2009 20:06
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Engine Paint

Hello,

Does anyone know if the engine paint sold by AH Spares is close to original
color?

Thanks, Tadek

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 07:26:20 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:26:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cooling. Thermostats. Radiator Caps. Overheating.
 Texas Coolers. Water Wetta. ad in finitem.
In-Reply-To: <AA87380174B14509AD01BA023FDC3E0C@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <AA87380174B14509AD01BA023FDC3E0C@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4A607BFC.3010307@comcast.net>

Question:  "How much longer can all this go on for?"

Answer:  Forever!



How much does an oil cooler help with engine temps?



bs



Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
> 
>  
> 
> How much longer can all this go on for? ...

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 17 08:08:57 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:08:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Cooling. Thermostats. Radiator Caps. Overheating.
 Texas Coolers. Water Wetta. ad in finitem.
In-Reply-To: <4A607BFC.3010307@comcast.net>
References: <AA87380174B14509AD01BA023FDC3E0C@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<4A607BFC.3010307@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A6085F9.1040804@chello.nl>

Depends on the size of the oil cooler and the flow rate but it can help 
considerably to keep the temperature down, especially on high revving 
engines. It also serves to keep the oil pressure up.
Kees Oudesluijs

Bob Spidell schreef:
> Question:  "How much longer can all this go on for?"
>
> Answer:  Forever!
>
>
>
> How much does an oil cooler help with engine temps?
>
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
>> G'day
>>
>>  
>>
>> How much longer can all this go on for? ...
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.17/2242 - Release Date: 07/16/09 18:00:00

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Fri Jul 17 08:27:41 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:27:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pump
Message-ID: <43DE5A6BC738447998D0FC3E311E5656@tm>

Hello,

Is the pump advertised here http://tinyurl.com/lcc6xm on ebay the original
one?

Thanks, Tadek

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Fri Jul 17 08:27:41 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:27:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Front?
Message-ID: <10E8DE7751744B24B8406DBD60D244F9@tm>

An interesting AH 100 front grill solution...

http://tinyurl.com/m5urto

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Fri Jul 17 08:27:41 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:27:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
Message-ID: <F834F08C9F9C42E28FAB6D593D31EF2E@tm>

BTW, can anyone explain the difference between the original type thermostat
(sold by MOSS at the moment) and the modern looking thermostat? Which one is
better?

Many thanks,

Tadek

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Jul 17 11:09:45 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:09:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pump
In-Reply-To: <43DE5A6BC738447998D0FC3E311E5656@tm>
References: <43DE5A6BC738447998D0FC3E311E5656@tm>
Message-ID: <200907170809742.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

They were an original manufacturer, and that is the correct pump.

With it you'll be getting 50 year old seals and grease at no extra charge!

Peter C.
==
At 07:27 AM 7/17/2009, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
>Hello,
>
>Is the pump advertised here http://tinyurl.com/lcc6xm on ebay the original
>one?
>
>Thanks, Tadek

From bpark at ebtech.net  Fri Jul 17 09:20:07 2009
From: bpark at ebtech.net (Bill Park)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:20:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat
Message-ID: <4D02F7EAB69D4207B17BBE83B5B12A9D@dell4500s>

Does anyone have experience using the bypass sleeve instead of a thermostat. I
have one, acquired years ago, but was always reluctant to use it because I
have always been told that it is necessary to have some kind of thermostat in
place.
Are these sleeves still available?
Thanks,

Bill

53 BN1
55 BN1

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Fri Jul 17 09:35:31 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:35:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pump
In-Reply-To: <43DE5A6BC738447998D0FC3E311E5656@tm>
References: <43DE5A6BC738447998D0FC3E311E5656@tm>
Message-ID: <cd4PPZBDpJYKFwh4@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Tadeusz

This looks correct in general terms for a 100 but it is configured for 
an engine with a direct heater outlet. This tube could be unscrewed and 
the heater tap fitted instead.

Without a pulley fitted it is hard to tell but it could be for use with 
a later 4 cylinder engine such as a petrol gypsy or London Taxi.

Most application do not fit a grease nipple and only have a small access 
screw into which a few drops of oil should be added from time to time. 
With a grease nipple there is a temptation to over lubricate.

Without a pulley I would have thought that the price is rather high.

Regards
>
>Is the pump advertised here http://tinyurl.com/lcc6xm on ebay the original
>one?
>
>Thanks, Tadek
-- 
John Harper

From powellinsac at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 17 10:49:47 2009
From: powellinsac at yahoo.com (Frank Powell)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 09:49:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Front?
In-Reply-To: <10E8DE7751744B24B8406DBD60D244F9@tm>
Message-ID: <330462.45595.qm@web111301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Only if interesting is another word for UGLY.
 
Frank Powell

--- On Fri, 7/17/09, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl>
wrote:


From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Front?
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 17, 2009, 7:27 AM


An interesting AH 100 front grill solution...

http://tinyurl.com/m5urto
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as powellinsac at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Jul 17 10:50:07 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 12:50:07 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies (continued)
Message-ID: <c15.4277f2c6.379205bf@aol.com>

Friendship among women:
A women didn't come home one night.
The  next morning she told her husband that she had slept over at a 
friends  house.
The man called his wife's 10 best friends.
None of them knew  anything about it.

Friendship among men:
A Man didn't come home one  night.
The next morning he told his wife that he had slept over at a  friends
house.
The woman called her husbands 10 best friends.
Eight  confirmed that he had slept over, and two said he was  still 
there.




**************Snoop, Lil Wayne, Lady GaGa -- land the tix you need for this 
summer's biggest tours. Tourtracker.com 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000007)

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 17 11:25:12 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 13:25:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat discussion - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS16F4713C190145E9DEF574A2210@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS16F4713C190145E9DEF574A2210@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ce473f960907171025m7c54807aj9baac7cf2008cbdc@mail.gmail.com>

I agree with Steve about "empirical" results. My experience was going
along these lines: In normal driving conditions of 35-65 mph my car
regularly registered very near to 190 degrees. I wanted it cooler
because literature indicated that the car theoretically had a 180
thermo. I deduced that this was what the design spec was. So, I bought
a new 180 thermo. Temps ran exactly the same. OK, time for a test. Put
the old thermo in a pot of water on the stove with my wife's candy
thermometer. When the thermometer read 180 the thermostat was fully
open. Humph! Put the new thermostat in the water, fully open at 180.
After many (2-3) seconds of deep pondering it became obvious that the
problem is the temp gauge. If it ever bothers me enough, I will adjust
the gauge. My suggestion to others who are bothered by engine temp not
being what you expect: Test the thermostat. It very well could be OK
and it is simply the gauge that is off.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 1:06 PM, Dick Matson<medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:
> Hi Steve:
>
>     With some possible exceptions my guess is that the field experience
> you've had with Bj8 coolant temperatures - described in your posts to the
list
> parts 1 & 2 - is typical.
>
>     I wonder how many temp gauges have been checked - verify the needle is
> indicating 212F in boiling water/altitude factored in.  That would be
another
> good starting point to diagnose a possible heating issue.
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: BJ8 Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 9:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] thermostat discussion - Part 2
>
>
> I am not convinced that Big Healey cooling systems have the capability to
> "overcool" the engine.  The system was not designed to a gnat's eyebrow by
> computers, and most parts came out of the BMC parts bin and were not
> designed specifically for the car.  The close quarters of the engine bay
and
> the marginal size of the radiator made such modifications as fender vents
> and bonnet louvers necessary even on the works cars and are still being
> installed in an effort to get the heat out of the engine bay.
>
> By the way, the factory parts manual lists a blanking sleeve to close off
> the bypass "For use in extremely hot climates in lieu of thermostat".
> Apparently, the factory didn't consider leaving the thermostat out would
> cause the coolant to flow too fast for the radiator to cool it.
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bjsbj8 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Waschu2 at charter.net  Fri Jul 17 12:47:59 2009
From: Waschu2 at charter.net (Wayne)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 14:47:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For sale
Message-ID: <4A60C75F.9030403@charter.net>

Hello,


            I have a  4:11 ring and pinion that came out of a quiet 
running rear end. I recently rebuilt the rear with 4:54 gears and no 
longer need the 4:11 gear set. This is the ring and pinion gear set only.
Email me if interested.

                                                                                        
Wayne

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 13:01:29 2009
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 19:01:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey items seen on local (NH) Craigslist for sale
In-Reply-To: <4A60C75F.9030403@charter.net>
Message-ID: <96127943.2711981247857289128.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Guys,B  Don't know this gentleman, but thought someone may need the parts...



http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/1236701304.html Austin Healey Parts - $599
(Nashua NH)







Reply to: sale-kgf5w-1236701304 at craigslist.org
Date: 2009-06-23, 10:37PM EDT



I have a Austn Healey shroud that goes to a 1967 BJ8 $599.00 Also I have a
pair of doors that will fit a 1960 BT-7 $500.00 for the pair or $300.00each no
door handles. I have a complete head and valve cover that will fit a six
cylinder Healey. You can call me at 603-882-8682 or cell 603-930-8682 before
9PM. Thanks and ask for Wil Bernstein


    b" Location: Nashua NH

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 17 13:55:16 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 12:55:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey items seen on local (NH) Craigslist for  sale
In-Reply-To: <96127943.2711981247857289128.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4A60C75F.9030403@charter.net>
	<96127943.2711981247857289128.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <173126440907171255k9de3310p2795f493dcd0c766@mail.gmail.com>

another craigs list posting, this time in Portland, Oregon
http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/pts/1273453821.html

<http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/pts/1273453821.html>
http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/pts/1264105977.
Ira Erbs,
BT7
no financial interest

On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 12:01 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:

> Guys,B  Don't know this gentleman, but thought someone may need the
> parts...
>
>
>
> http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/1236701304.html Austin Healey Parts - $599
> (Nashua NH)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Reply to: sale-kgf5w-1236701304 at craigslist.org
> Date: 2009-06-23, 10:37PM EDT
>
>
>
> I have a Austn Healey shroud that goes to a 1967 BJ8 $599.00 Also I have a
> pair of doors that will fit a 1960 BT-7 $500.00 for the pair or $300.00each
> no
> door handles. I have a complete head and valve cover that will fit a six
> cylinder Healey. You can call me at 603-882-8682 or cell 603-930-8682
> before
> 9PM. Thanks and ask for Wil Bernstein
>
>
>    b" Location: Nashua NH
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 14:00:14 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 15:00:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat discussion - Part 2
Message-ID: <13670389.819689.1247860814427.JavaMail.root@vms063.mailsrvcs.net>


From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Fri Jul 17 15:16:27 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:16:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] McCahill Drives The Austin Healey (Nov, 1953)
Message-ID: <D650D292-7691-46BF-8AD5-A4096590D4A7@cgocable.ca>

I folk ,

i found this article on the web, it could be interesting for the  
healey owner ...

cheers

gilbert

BT7 1960

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Fri Jul 17 15:18:00 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:18:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: McCahill Drives The Austin Healey (Nov, 1953)
References: <D650D292-7691-46BF-8AD5-A4096590D4A7@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <61B72036-5ADA-4259-83AE-8AE1953C277B@cgocable.ca>

Ups forgot the link ....http://tinyurl.com/m7zhzn

Dibut du message riexpidii :

> De : gilbert gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca>
> Date : 17 juillet 2009 17:16:27 HAE
> @ : HEALEY  MAIL <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Objet : McCahill Drives The Austin Healey (Nov, 1953)
>
> I folk ,
>
> i found this article on the web, it could be interesting for the
> healey owner ...
>
> cheers
>
> gilbert
>
> BT7 1960

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 17 18:36:28 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:36:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
Message-ID: <000601ca073f$cb1a4130$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I know I read about this a couple years ago but can't find it in the archival
replays.
Sooo,   is it necessary to take a new rear BT7 reflector unit apart to install
the rubber grommet,
and then reassemble it on the car.    Or does one have to wrestle the
reflector into position  as a set.

I don't want to learn the hard way with a scratched paint job.

Thanks,  Mark

FWIW,   a nice surprise when I received my Moss order the other day.    I
ordered the reflector
grommets and got the entire assemble for the same price.  A thumbs up for
Moss.

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Fri Jul 17 20:35:56 2009
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 19:35:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
References: <000601ca073f$cb1a4130$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <CCECC5E4681D461B9BD2BD847AF2E54C@FRED>

No, you do not need to take it apart.  Just put some dish washer soap in the 
rubber groove and thread it in through one of the slots in the shroud.  Not 
easy, just take your time.  Put some masking tape around the exterior of the 
opening in the shroud.

John Snyder


>I know I read about this a couple years ago but can't find it in the 
>archival
> replays.
> Sooo,   is it necessary to take a new rear BT7 reflector unit apart to 
> install
> the rubber grommet,
> and then reassemble it on the car.    Or does one have to wrestle the
> reflector into position  as a set.
>
> I don't want to learn the hard way with a scratched paint job.
>
> Thanks,  Mark

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 17 21:14:42 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite
Message-ID: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>

Just noticed the passing of this icon of broadcasting and remembered that he
was a Healey enthusiast and raced them


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Jul 17 21:37:11 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 03:37:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?reflectors?=
Message-ID: <20090718033711.18187.qmail@server278.com>

i recently installed two new reflectors on a bj8.  i took the rim  and reflector plate off, squeezed the rubber into the hole, then put the reflector and ring back on. took about 20 seconds each one.  hjim

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 21:42:05 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:42:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>
References: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>
Message-ID: <4A61448D.6080604@comcast.net>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bySosXZHnfI


John Sims wrote:
> Just noticed the passing of this icon of broadcasting and remembered that he
> was a Healey enthusiast and raced them
> 
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Sat Jul 18 01:01:08 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 09:01:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Paint
In-Reply-To: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D3B@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <71324486C82B4E9FBB712870BB2A6C48@tm>

Hello all,

many thanks for replys on the paint...

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Willig [mailto:twillig at ruda.de]
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 11:50 AM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Healeys] Engine Paint

Hi Tadek,

yes, the current paint from A-H Spares is very similar to the original. I
have just painted the gearbox on my BN2 and it matches the original color
well. The paint is easy to work with and can be spray painted (that's what I
did), after diluting it with thinner.

Regards


Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2009 20:06
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Engine Paint

Hello,

Does anyone know if the engine paint sold by AH Spares is close to original
color?

Thanks, Tadek

From kturk at adelphia.net  Sat Jul 18 04:27:21 2009
From: kturk at adelphia.net (Keith Turk)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 05:27:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] unsubscribe healeys
References: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>
	<4A61448D.6080604@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B1E0387976E74D4A9C7CDD173C85ED6D@keithhrijwmm4p>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bySosXZHnfI
>
>
> John Sims wrote:
>> Just noticed the passing of this icon of broadcasting and remembered that 
>> he
>> was a Healey enthusiast and raced them
>>
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as kturk at adelphia.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 08:28:48 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 10:28:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
Message-ID: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's time
to replace the rear springs.
 
Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any reason
not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally changed
during a spring change?
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 18 09:42:14 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 08:42:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
Message-ID: <143371.74173.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

>From the Vintage Race list:

--- On Sat, 7/18/09, Ralph Steinberg
<ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com> wrote:

> From: Ralph Steinberg
<ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com>
> Subject: [Vintage-race] (no subject)
> To:
"Vintage Race" <vintage-race at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, July 18, 2009,
11:05 AM
> I want to thank everyone who came out
> to this year's PVGP/VRG
Historic Races
> at BeaveRun. And I really want to thank Mike & Nial for
>
some nifty footage.
> 
>  I would like everyone to view this tape of Mike in
the
> Charity rides
> #6-IN-CAR VIDEO-Michael
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NioTloY98k>
> Oritt-Elva-During Charity Rides
> 
>  Let me fill you in a bit - This is why we do this! The boy
> in the car
is 14
> years old and a non-verbal autistic child. His father told
> me he
loves speed
> and when he is happy he starts to rock. The happier he is
> the
more he rocks!
> He was recalling rock and rolling here!! 
> 
>  Michael,
thank you so much!
> 
> We also got this same boy into a safety car for the
start
> of one of our
> races - he loved it! Thanks to all of you for helping
us
> bring some joy into
> this families life and to further our charities
which
> directly help people
> like this.
> 
>  Thanks again and I hope to see
everyone back next year and
> bring a friend!
> 
>  Ralph Steinberg
> 
> PVGPA
Director of Competition BeaveRun
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> You are subscribed as
healeyrick at yahoo.com
> 
> Vintage-race at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Jul 18 10:06:20 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 09:06:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Denso Alternator Article
Message-ID: <000901ca07c1$b1534f30$13f9ed90$@com>

John Sims at the Healey6 site has posted my article on using the
Hendrix-Lenschow mounting kit with the smaller Denso Mini-Chevy alternator:

 

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Alternator1.pdf

 

Thanks, John.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 10:23:31 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 09:23:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
References: <000601ca073f$cb1a4130$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <2C2D74B4B8AF452786D6BA968D3E8573@lyon1>

Mark,

I can't find the 'reflector grommets' listed separately in the Moss catalog, 
or on thier website.
I can only find the whole reflector assembly (grommet, reflector, and trim 
ring), part number 544-700.
What is their part number for the rubber grommet only???

Does anyone else sell the rubber reflector grommets by themselves (as 
opposed to the whole assembly)???

Thanks in advance,

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 5:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install


>
>
> Thanks,  Mark
>
> FWIW,   a nice surprise when I received my Moss order the other day.    I
> ordered the reflector
> grommets and got the entire assemble for the same price.  A thumbs up for
> Moss. 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 10:36:25 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 00:36:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907180936k663aadeapb597d62ef0fe5600@mail.gmail.com>

Steve -

I think this is one of the parts that Moss has got right, but then again I
ordered mine about 10 years ago, but I've heard other say recently this is a
good item.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sat, Jul 18, 2009 at 10:28 PM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
> Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's time
> to replace the rear springs.
>
> Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any reason
> not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally changed
> during a spring change?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 18 10:40:23 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 16:40:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W40F6DAB272D2660C063515D51F0@phx.gbl>

Steve



I bet you will probably shear a couple of the u bolts, and I would change them
all, I would also get new rear shackle bolts and new front half moon bolts as
you may end up grinding or cutting out. Also you will need the rubbers/poly
bushes for; front bolt, back shackles and pad for spring plate.



Cant help with US suppliers, but my Healey guy reckons the only bj8 springs
made to the correct curvature are supplied by Dennis Welsch, hence thats where
I got mine.



Put a small block of wood between the shackle and chassis as you jack the
spring up, to stop the shackle doing any damage before it finds it correct
position.



Its up to you if you want to go the whole, back end bush kit and also do the
radius arm, but this could be a pig.



cheers Andy




_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organise, edit, and share your photos.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul 18 14:41:06 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:41:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
References: <000601ca073f$cb1a4130$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<2C2D74B4B8AF452786D6BA968D3E8573@lyon1>
Message-ID: <C0FDC6B01D50414E96A6C84B25095365@LIFEBOOK>

Dougls,

No, it's all or nothing as far as I've ever seen. I'd recommend saving the 
original Lucas reflector portion and using it in the new rubber.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas Lyon" <lyon612 at verizon.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Reflector Install


> Mark,
>
> I can't find the 'reflector grommets' listed separately in the Moss 
> catalog, or on thier website.
> I can only find the whole reflector assembly (grommet, reflector, and trim 
> ring), part number 544-700.
> What is their part number for the rubber grommet only???
>
> Does anyone else sell the rubber reflector grommets by themselves (as 
> opposed to the whole assembly)???
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 5:36 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
>
>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,  Mark
>>
>> FWIW,   a nice surprise when I received my Moss order the other day.    I
>> ordered the reflector
>> grommets and got the entire assemble for the same price.  A thumbs up for
>> Moss.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 11:42:07 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:42:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
Message-ID: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>

Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full of
gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak and
what do I use to patch it.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 18 11:52:21 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 10:52:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W278057FE981482E9258591DB1F0@phx.gbl>

Hi John,

  On your website under replacement parts, you list a new float from Ford part
#COAZ9202-B. Will that work?



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:42:07 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
>
> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak
and
> what do I use to patch it.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_ML
OGEN_Local_Local_Restaurants_1x1

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sat Jul 18 11:55:17 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:55:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
Message-ID: <A82DED37B9354FD3A0DE78C9DD763B13@OFFICE>

    First you need to make another hole in the float.  This will enable you 
to get the gas out that is in it.  If you blow into the hole that you make 
then the gas will come out of the original hole.  When the float is empty, 
if its plastic, use a soldering iron to seal both holes.  On a metal unit 
use the soldering iron to solder the holes shut. Other units are available, 
one is from a Ford Pickup I believe and it is tin.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 1:42 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit


> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full 
> of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak 
> and
> what do I use to patch it.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.387 / Virus Database: 270.13.19/2245 - Release Date: 07/18/09 
05:57:00

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 12:17:43 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:17:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W278057FE981482E9258591DB1F0@phx.gbl>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<BLU144-W278057FE981482E9258591DB1F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007601ca07d4$0b59dbe0$220d93a0$@net>

One of these days I will learn to look at my own site before I send out a
SOS. Just too lazy I guess.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

http://www.healey6.com

 

From: Dan [mailto:jobu53 at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 1:52 PM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

 

Hi John,
  On your website under replacement parts, you list a new float from Ford
part #COAZ9202-B. Will that work?
 
Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
 
> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:42:07 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
> 
> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full
of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak
and
> what do I use to patch it.
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
> 
> http://www.healey6.com

From robertlarson at att.net  Sat Jul 18 12:19:08 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:19:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
Message-ID: <4A62121C.6010909@att.net>

Hi John,

               I'm not sure I like doing this...  But here is a link to 
your site:

http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm

               There is a part number for  a replacement float from 
Ford.   Will that do it??

Bob

Stockhom, NJ
55BN1

John Sims wrote:
> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak and
> what do I use to patch it.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 13:11:39 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 15:11:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <4A62121C.6010909@att.net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net> <4A62121C.6010909@att.net>
Message-ID: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>

The Ford brass float is a direct replacement for the plastic float you get
with a Moss sending unit.  It does not work with the original float, at
least not with the original brass float for a BJ8 that is soldered to the
float arm.  

I haven't tried this myself, but if I were going to try to find the leak in
a brass float I would dip it in liquid dishwashing detergent, and then heat
the float gently.  The expanding air in the float should cause a bubble
where the leak is.  I would fix the leak with a soldering iron.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 2:19 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

Hi John,

               I'm not sure I like doing this...  But here is a link to 
your site:

http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm

               There is a part number for  a replacement float from 
Ford.   Will that do it??

Bob

Stockhom, NJ
55BN1

John Sims wrote:
> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full
of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak
and
> what do I use to patch it.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 18 14:28:49 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:28:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys]  Gas tank/carb. floats
In-Reply-To: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

To find a leak in a float ( empty of gas ) put the float in HOT water , you
will see air bubbles coming from the leak , just like finding a leak in a
bicycle inner tube .. this is how new floats used to be checked in1950's in
England on a production line ...                          Norman Nock


--- On Sat, 7/18/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 18, 2009, 12:11 PM

The Ford brass float is a direct replacement for the plastic float you get
with a Moss sending unit.  It does not work with the original float, at
least not with the original brass float for a BJ8 that is soldered to the
float arm. 

I haven't tried this myself, but if I were going to try to find the leak in
a brass float I would dip it in liquid dishwashing detergent, and then heat
the float gently.  The expanding air in the float should cause a bubble
where the leak is.  I would fix the leak with a soldering iron.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 2:19 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

Hi John,

               I'm not sure I like doing this...  But here is a link to
your site:

http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm

               There is a part number for  a replacement float from
Ford.   Will that do it??

Bob

Stockhom, NJ
55BN1

John Sims wrote:
> Any secrets on how to find a leak on the sender unit float? Mine is full
of
> gas. Can I buy just the float anywhere? If not, how do I locate the leak
and
> what do I use to patch it.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 14:36:21 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:36:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank/carb. floats
In-Reply-To: <601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <471534970907181336t3835d393g8a20f5a6f53278bd@mail.gmail.com>

This yet again explains British quality control. All the test baths
were heated with Lucas water heaters :)

:)
Jody

On Sat, Jul 18, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Norman Nock<sjnnock at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> To find a leak in a float ( empty of gas ) put the float in HOT water , you
> will see air bubbles coming from the leak , just like finding a leak in a
> bicycle inner tube .. this is how new floats used to be checked in1950's in
> England on a production line ...                          Norman Nock
>


--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 15:34:06 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:34:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank/carb. floats
In-Reply-To: <601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005501ca07ef$7aa9b180$6ffd1480$@rr.com>

I had forgotten the little detail that the float is already full of gas.
You're going to have to get that out anyway by drilling a hole in the float,
so I would second Bob Yule's approach to the repair:  drill a small hole,
drain the gas, find the leak using your favorite technique, then solder the
leak and drilled hole closed.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Norman Nock
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 4:29 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank/carb. floats

To find a leak in a float ( empty of gas ) put the float in HOT water , you
will see air bubbles coming from the leak , just like finding a leak in a
bicycle inner tube .. this is how new floats used to be checked in1950's in
England on a production line ...                          Norman Nock

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 15:47:04 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:47:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<4A62121C.6010909@att.net> <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>

The local Ford dealer had the float in stock. I do not know about a BJ8 but
the replacement assembly that I got from Moss a couple of years ago had a
plastic float. Popping that one off and installing the brass (or tin or
whatever) Ford float is real easy. I found the leak on the plastic float.
There is a semi ring at the end of the float arm where the float attaches.
The end of the ring was a little rough and wore a slit approx 1/8 of an inch
through the plastic. Doubt if that will happen with the metal replacement.

Since it will be raining tomorrow, I think that I will spend some time and
see just what I have put on my site over the years.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:12 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

The Ford brass float is a direct replacement for the plastic float you get
with a Moss sending unit.  It does not work with the original float, at
least not with the original brass float for a BJ8 that is soldered to the
float arm.

I haven't tried this myself, but if I were going to try to find the leak in
a brass float I would dip it in liquid dishwashing detergent, and then heat
the float gently.  The expanding air in the float should cause a bubble
where the leak is.  I would fix the leak with a soldering iron.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 15:50:52 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:50:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank/carb. floats
In-Reply-To: <005501ca07ef$7aa9b180$6ffd1480$@rr.com>
References: <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<601660.45274.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<005501ca07ef$7aa9b180$6ffd1480$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <471534970907181450j6bd4e685od3b4edd513086895@mail.gmail.com>

In theory, JB Weld will hold. I find, however, in gasoline
environemtns that it tends to break down over time.

Jody

On Sat, Jul 18, 2009 at 2:34 PM, BJ8 Healeys<sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> I had forgotten the little detail that the float is already full of gas.
> You're going to have to get that out anyway by drilling a hole in the
float,
> so I would second Bob Yule's approach to the repair:  drill a small hole,
> drain the gas, find the leak using your favorite technique, then solder the
> leak and drilled hole closed.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Norman Nock
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 4:29 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Gas tank/carb. floats
>
> To find a leak in a float ( empty of gas ) put the float in HOT water , you
> will see air bubbles coming from the leak , just like finding a leak in a
> bicycle inner tube .. this is how new floats used to be checked in1950's in
> England on a production line ...                          Norman Nock
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 16:47:34 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 18:47:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<4A62121C.6010909@att.net> <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
Message-ID: <005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>

I ordered a replacement sending unit from Moss several years ago.  I
installed it, but about three days later when the gas gauge registered
permanently empty I found a small crack in the plastic float at the end of
the curve in the float arm wire where the float clips in, same as yours.  I
sent that unit back and they sent me another one with a HOLE in the same
place right out of the box.  I told Moss that I thought they needed to have
a look at the way the end of the wire was cut off, that it was too sharp and
was damaging the plastic float.  All they need to do is add a small curve at
the end of the wire in the opposite direction.  Sounds like they didn't do
anything about it.
The third unit came with the plastic float that I replaced with the Ford
brass float, but the rheostat coil in that one was wound very sloppily and
producted an erratic gauge.
I gave up on the Moss unit and went back to the original (a spare given to
me by someone who had sold his BJ8).

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC



-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 5:47 PM
To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

The local Ford dealer had the float in stock. I do not know about a BJ8 but
the replacement assembly that I got from Moss a couple of years ago had a
plastic float. Popping that one off and installing the brass (or tin or
whatever) Ford float is real easy. I found the leak on the plastic float.
There is a semi ring at the end of the float arm where the float attaches.
The end of the ring was a little rough and wore a slit approx 1/8 of an inch
through the plastic. Doubt if that will happen with the metal replacement.

Since it will be raining tomorrow, I think that I will spend some time and
see just what I have put on my site over the years.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 18:20:11 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:20:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<4A62121C.6010909@att.net> <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
	<005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <009501ca0806$aeb7fd80$0c27f880$@net>

And, when all else fails, do what I did and make up an Emergency Fuel Dip
Stick as developed by Jim Lea in Maine. I carry one in my boot and it works
well. AND, I remembered this time that the instructions to make one can be
found on the Technical page of my site!!!!! A glass of wine at dinner erased
my Senior moments and gave me a clear head.

BTW my fuel gauge now reads full which it should. Let's see if it goes down
after driving a while. Ah, the mysteries of Healeydom.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 6:48 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit

I ordered a replacement sending unit from Moss several years ago.  I
installed it, but about three days later when the gas gauge registered
permanently empty I found a small crack in the plastic float at the end of
the curve in the float arm wire where the float clips in, same as yours.  I
sent that unit back and they sent me another one with a HOLE in the same
place right out of the box.  I told Moss that I thought they needed to have
a look at the way the end of the wire was cut off, that it was too sharp and
was damaging the plastic float.  All they need to do is add a small curve at
the end of the wire in the opposite direction.  Sounds like they didn't do
anything about it.
The third unit came with the plastic float that I replaced with the Ford
brass float, but the rheostat coil in that one was wound very sloppily and
producted an erratic gauge.
I gave up on the Moss unit and went back to the original (a spare given to
me by someone who had sold his BJ8).

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 18:46:04 2009
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
Message-ID: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Hello All,

I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8.  I see that MOSS has a " 
Pilkington " windshield for
$430 and a "aftermarket" for $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is 
worth an extra $285.

What is the difference in the two windshields ?

Thanks,
Jim 

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sat Jul 18 18:59:19 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:59:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net><4A62121C.6010909@att.net>
	<005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com><008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
	<005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <31608A5C271049FFAFA573B4FCFB0415@your4dacd0ea75>

There is an eBay vendor named noslocators that sells a better reproduction 
fuel level sending than the Moss unit.
It does have a plastic float

Here is a link to one presently listed
http://tinyurl.com/n4qpzp

Dallas




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit


>I ordered a replacement sending unit from Moss several years ago.  I
> installed it, but about three days later when the gas gauge registered
> permanently empty I found a small crack in the plastic float at the end of
> the curve in the float arm wire where the float clips in, same as yours. 
> I
> sent that unit back and they sent me another one with a HOLE in the same
> place right out of the box.  I told Moss that I thought they needed to 
> have
> a look at the way the end of the wire was cut off, that it was too sharp 
> and
> was damaging the plastic float.  All they need to do is add a small curve 
> at
> the end of the wire in the opposite direction.  Sounds like they didn't do
> anything about it.
> The third unit came with the plastic float that I replaced with the Ford
> brass float, but the rheostat coil in that one was wound very sloppily and
> producted an erratic gauge.
> I gave up on the Moss unit and went back to the original (a spare given to
> me by someone who had sold his BJ8).
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 18 19:12:01 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 21:12:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
In-Reply-To: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W212FC2BF9C51057ED82C3DC81C0@phx.gbl>

Hi Jim,

I first bought the cheaper windshield glass from Victoria British.  After
three attempts to install it and finding that the glass appeared to be too
narrow from pillar to pillar and therefore not seating deep enough into the
seal at the edges I sprung for the the Pilkington glass from Moss.  It was a
better fit.  When I received the Pilkington glass and compared it to the
cheaper glass I noted that the curvature of the Pilkington was greater and the
glass was wider pillar to pillar.

Having said this, I have also heard of many success stories of those using the
cheaper Moss and V.B. brands.  This is just my experience with the two.  If I
ever have to do it again I will buy the Pilkington glass if it's available.

Good luck,

George Haywood
"65 bj8

----------------------------------------
> From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:46:04 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
>
> Hello All,
>
> I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8. I see that MOSS has a "
> Pilkington " windshield for
> $430 and a "aftermarket" for $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is
> worth an extra $285.
>
> What is the difference in the two windshields ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as haywoodone at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Store, access, and share your photos. See how.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 19:23:19 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 09:23:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
In-Reply-To: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907181823s36cf9f0em77530a373cb69b10@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

Pilkington has the trademarks for Triplex so I believe the Pilkington
windsheild comes with the XXX marks and triplex on it.  I also believe
the fit of the Pilkington windscreens are better than some of the
repros floating around....

Alan

On 7/19/09, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8.  I see that MOSS has a "
> Pilkington " windshield for
> $430 and a "aftermarket" for $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is
> worth an extra $285.
>
> What is the difference in the two windshields ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 19:31:45 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 21:31:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <31608A5C271049FFAFA573B4FCFB0415@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net><4A62121C.6010909@att.net>
	<005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com><008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
	<005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
	<31608A5C271049FFAFA573B4FCFB0415@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <08CE58E6-6811-4C90-9EAE-56696DC6C1D1@gmail.com>

I have this unit in my BJ8 and very happy with it. No fit issues and  
it took all the jumping around of the needle out.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com






On Jul 18, 2009, at 8:59 PM, Dallas Congleton wrote:

> There is an eBay vendor named noslocators that sells a better  
> reproduction fuel level sending than the Moss unit.
> It does have a plastic float
>
> Here is a link to one presently listed
> http://tinyurl.com/n4qpzp
>
> Dallas
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 6:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
>
>
>> I ordered a replacement sending unit from Moss several years ago.  I
>> installed it, but about three days later when the gas gauge  
>> registered
>> permanently empty I found a small crack in the plastic float at  
>> the end of
>> the curve in the float arm wire where the float clips in, same as  
>> yours. I
>> sent that unit back and they sent me another one with a HOLE in  
>> the same
>> place right out of the box.  I told Moss that I thought they  
>> needed to have
>> a look at the way the end of the wire was cut off, that it was too  
>> sharp and
>> was damaging the plastic float.  All they need to do is add a  
>> small curve at
>> the end of the wire in the opposite direction.  Sounds like they  
>> didn't do
>> anything about it.
>> The third unit came with the plastic float that I replaced with  
>> the Ford
>> brass float, but the rheostat coil in that one was wound very  
>> sloppily and
>> producted an erratic gauge.
>> I gave up on the Moss unit and went back to the original (a spare  
>> given to
>> me by someone who had sold his BJ8).
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jul 18 19:38:06 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 01:38:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?gas_guage_sending_unit?=
Message-ID: <20090719013806.20244.qmail@server278.com>

john, at least 5 years ago or so, my sending unit quit working and i discovered the float was full of gas.  not having much luck soldering the hole closed since it was in  the seam, i cut the end off the float, filled it with two corks from home depot, and replaced the unit.  working fine and i assume will continue for a long time.    hjim

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sat Jul 18 21:55:02 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:55:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net><4A62121C.6010909@att.net><005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com><008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net><005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
	<31608A5C271049FFAFA573B4FCFB0415@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <001d01ca0824$b1a3b020$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I bought that float from NOS locators.  It developed a hole a few days after 
installation.  I think they all are made by the same manufacturer.

Jerry 

From aajr at verizon.net  Sat Jul 18 23:04:34 2009
From: aajr at verizon.net (Al Adams)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 22:04:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EOS
Message-ID: <007f01ca082e$692c9e10$2f01a8c0@yourvp7x3s9ctm>

I just purchased a 16 oz. container of GM EOS. How much do I add when I change
the oil on my BJ7? Thanks.

Al Adams
1963 BJ7

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 19 02:24:38 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:24:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<4A62121C.6010909@att.net> <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
Message-ID: <4A62D846.80305@chello.nl>

John,
Smooth down the rough end of the wire loop around the float. It will 
prevent future problems. It is a well known problem that affects many 
other cars world wide accross the makes.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

John Sims schreef:
> The local Ford dealer had the float in stock. I do not know about a BJ8 but
> the replacement assembly that I got from Moss a couple of years ago had a
> plastic float. Popping that one off and installing the brass (or tin or
> whatever) Ford float is real easy. I found the leak on the plastic float.
> There is a semi ring at the end of the float arm where the float attaches.
> The end of the ring was a little rough and wore a slit approx 1/8 of an inch
> through the plastic. Doubt if that will happen with the metal replacement.
>
> Since it will be raining tomorrow, I think that I will spend some time and
> see just what I have put on my site over the years.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 3:12 PM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
>
> The Ford brass float is a direct replacement for the plastic float you get
> with a Moss sending unit.  It does not work with the original float, at
> least not with the original brass float for a BJ8 that is soldered to the
> float arm.
>
> I haven't tried this myself, but if I were going to try to find the leak in
> a brass float I would dip it in liquid dishwashing detergent, and then heat
> the float gently.  The expanding air in the float should cause a bubble
> where the leak is.  I would fix the leak with a soldering iron.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 19 02:28:50 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:28:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
In-Reply-To: <009501ca0806$aeb7fd80$0c27f880$@net>
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net>
	<4A62121C.6010909@att.net> <005001ca07db$94920430$bdb60c90$@rr.com>
	<008a01ca07f1$4a592770$df0b7650$@net>
	<005f01ca07f9$be2a6120$3a7f2360$@rr.com>
	<009501ca0806$aeb7fd80$0c27f880$@net>
Message-ID: <4A62D942.10209@chello.nl>

Talking about a glass of wine: a cork will do as well.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


John Sims schreef:
> And, when all else fails, do what I did and make up an Emergency Fuel Dip
> Stick as developed by Jim Lea in Maine. I carry one in my boot and it works
> well. AND, I remembered this time that the instructions to make one can be
> found on the Technical page of my site!!!!! A glass of wine at dinner erased
> my Senior moments and gave me a clear head.
>
> BTW my fuel gauge now reads full which it should. Let's see if it goes down
> after driving a while. Ah, the mysteries of Healeydom.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 6:48 PM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
>
> I ordered a replacement sending unit from Moss several years ago.  I
> installed it, but about three days later when the gas gauge registered
> permanently empty I found a small crack in the plastic float at the end of
> the curve in the float arm wire where the float clips in, same as yours.  I
> sent that unit back and they sent me another one with a HOLE in the same
> place right out of the box.  I told Moss that I thought they needed to have
> a look at the way the end of the wire was cut off, that it was too sharp and
> was damaging the plastic float.  All they need to do is add a small curve at
> the end of the wire in the opposite direction.  Sounds like they didn't do
> anything about it.
> The third unit came with the plastic float that I replaced with the Ford
> brass float, but the rheostat coil in that one was wound very sloppily and
> producted an erratic gauge.
> I gave up on the Moss unit and went back to the original (a spare given to
> me by someone who had sold his BJ8).
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 19 02:40:28 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:40:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
In-Reply-To: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <4A62DBFC.5030409@chello.nl>

Jim,
The Pilkington wind screen is probeably the better option as they took 
over the Triplex company who made the original wind screens. The 
Pilkingtons are generally a very good fit on most makes of cars and are 
usually a bit thicker than (some of) the cheaper windscreens. The two 
glass layers are also of  a different thickness. They may be tinted.
I would go for the Pilkington.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
 
Jim Lyons schreef:
> Hello All,
>
> I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8.  I see that MOSS has a " 
> Pilkington " windshield for
> $430 and a "aftermarket" for $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is 
> worth an extra $285.
>
> What is the difference in the two windshields ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 03:21:38 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 17:21:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Apollo 11
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907190221o46c01faft5f48d478c045e357@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Someone just pointed this out to me, very cool website.

http://www.wechoosethemoon.org/#

It is following the 40th anniversary of the moon landing, in real time. +40
years that is.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 19 04:29:59 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 6:29:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20090719052959.KZQB5.38379.root@ispmxfep11-z01>

On the BJ8, when adding new springs, you will find they sit pretty high.  IMO, that is an "ugly" look.

When I bough my new springs about 10 years ago, I had then pre-sprung about 25% by a local commercial spring place.  The stance of the car looked so much better to me.  I found no problems driving over speed bumps either.

Cheers
tom
---- BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote: 
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>  
> On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
> Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's time
> to replace the rear springs.
>  
> Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any reason
> not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally changed
> during a spring change?
>  
> Thanks in advance!
>  
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 05:31:16 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:31:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <1897298803.2953411248003002050.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <630017247.2953551248003076948.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I can understand the enthusiasm of Mike's passenger. A month later, I am still grinning from ear to ear having been his passenger around a few laps at Shannonville! 


Regards, Tom 

From clint.hatton at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 06:25:31 2009
From: clint.hatton at gmail.com (Clint)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 08:25:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thermostat discussion
In-Reply-To: <49DC313558454CE8BB798FF18ADEF6FF@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <49DC313558454CE8BB798FF18ADEF6FF@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4A6310BB.8080600@gmail.com>

Patrick,

Please contact me offline.

-- 
If you forward this correspondence, PLEASE delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address! It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the world!  Erasing the history helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and viruses from being propagated.

From westonkeyes at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 07:29:04 2009
From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 09:29:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock operation
Message-ID: <BAY114-W251EF283767EA09DE1E5A7BA1C0@phx.gbl>

Hello Folks,

    How is the glove box lock/latch supposed to work?

Does one need to turn the key to open it? Does it snap shut without the key?
My customer has bought a used one that appears to be frozen. When I turn the
key the barrel moves out from the handle.

Many thanks

Wes Keyes
York, Maine

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 07:44:00 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 09:44:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Apollo 11
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907190221o46c01faft5f48d478c045e357@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0907190221o46c01faft5f48d478c045e357@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ad01ca0876$f9659e30$ec30da90$@net>

Thanks, Alan. This is amazing, especially for those of us who actually lived
through it and I have spread it out to others. I find that it is really
great if you zoom the screen to 125 percent. (of course, dependant upon the
computer being used, that is)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 5:22 AM
To: Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey - Apollo 11

All -

Someone just pointed this out to me, very cool website.

http://www.wechoosethemoon.org/#

It is following the 40th anniversary of the moon landing, in real time. +40
years that is.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 08:01:27 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 14:01:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock operation
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W251EF283767EA09DE1E5A7BA1C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1410959522.2938621248012087286.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Wes, 

My BJ8's latch--original--works as follows: 

- the barrel should be more-or-less even with the face of the body in 'neutral' position; i.e. it does not pop out 
- you push the barrel in about a quarter-inch to retract the 'tongue' and open the box 
- once opened, you can just push the glove box closed (though I prefer to depress the barrel first to save wear-and-tear on the latch ) 
- to lock, insert key with barrel in 'neutral' position and turn key one quarter-turn counterclockwise 

HTH, 
Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Weston Keyes" <westonkeyes at hotmail.com> 
To: "Ahealey Ahealey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 6:29:04 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock operation 

Hello Folks, 

How is the glove box lock/latch supposed to work? 

Does one need to turn the key to open it? Does it snap shut without the key? 
My customer has bought a used one that appears to be frozen. When I turn the 
key the barrel moves out from the handle. 

Many thanks 

Wes Keyes 
York, Maine 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 09:02:49 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:02:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
Message-ID: <d5e.52930dd1.37948f99@aol.com>

I purchased & installed the Pilkington windscreen for my BJ8 & was  
satisfied with the fit. As most people on this list have indicated, be prepaired  
for at least some frustration because the assemble is not easy. I have no  
experience with the less expensive glass. While Plinkington has the rights to  
the Triplex trademark, the markings on the windscreen are far from 
"original" in  appearance.
Gary    
 
 
In a message dated 7/18/2009 7:47:36 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com writes:

Hello  All,

I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8.  I see that  MOSS has a " 
Pilkington " windshield for
$430 and a "aftermarket" for  $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is 
worth an extra  $285.

What is the difference in the two windshields  ?

Thanks,
Jim  
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 09:08:39 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:08:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
Message-ID: <c42.4c257bf2.379490f7@aol.com>

A friend just bought a sending unit from Victoria British. It had a hole in 
 the float, too. The Ford float is a perfect replacement for the plastic 
float. I  also think they all come from the same source.
Gary
 
 
In a message dated 7/18/2009 10:55:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net writes:

I bought  that float from NOS locators.  It developed a hole a few days 
after  
installation.  I think they all are made by the same  manufacturer.


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 09:32:10 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 08:32:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pilkington triplex windshield glass
Message-ID: <4E79EED5-94E6-43A1-AF03-FCF88B9F6082@comcast.net>

Listers,

I replaced the windscreen glass in my BJ8 a couple of years ago.   
There is absolutely no doubt  it was worth every dollar extra the  
glass might cost.  The glass is perfectly clear.  When I take the  
effort to clean the glass thoroughly it is extraordinarily clear.  The  
fit of the new glass in the windscreen frame is perfect.  I have heard  
stories of the cheaper replacement glass leaving gaps between the  
weather seal and the glass once it has been fitted.  Regarding the  
price, I would urge you to shop around.  I paid approximately $250.00  
for my Pilkington glass.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 19 09:42:35 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pilkington triplex windshield glass
Message-ID: <20090719.084254.26667.22607@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>

Where?????
 
> Listers,
> 
> I replaced the windscreen glass in my BJ8 a couple of years ago.   
> There is absolutely no doubt  it was worth every dollar extra the  
> glass might cost.  The glass is perfectly clear.  When I take the  
> effort to clean the glass thoroughly it is extraordinarily clear.  
> The  
> fit of the new glass in the windscreen frame is perfect.  I have 
> heard  
> stories of the cheaper replacement glass leaving gaps between the  
> weather seal and the glass once it has been fitted.  Regarding the  
> 
> price, I would urge you to shop around.  I paid approximately 
> $250.00  
> for my Pilkington glass.
> 
> Marks 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Unlimited Sites Reseller
ASP.NET, MS SQL, PHP   Windows 2008   Plesk, 24/7 support
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From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 19 11:08:57 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:08:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock operation
In-Reply-To: <1410959522.2938621248012087286.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1410959522.2938621248012087286.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <215046.43483.qm@web110310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Reminds me of something: in 39 years of owning a BJ8 I have never seen another hood latch located where I have mine. It goes thru a hole at the bottom back of the glovebox and lies flat on the bottom of the glovebox. Seemed like it needed to be 'under-lock-and-key', so now it is when the glovebox is locked. This is very simple, list.
Richard


________________________________
- to lock, insert key with barrel in 'neutral' position and turn key one quarter-turn counterclockwise 

HTH, 
Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Weston Keyes" <westonkeyes at hotmail.com> 
To: "Ahealey Ahealey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 6:29:04 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock operation 

Hello Folks, 

How is the glove box lock/latch supposed to work? 

Does one need to turn the key to open it? Does it snap shut without the key? 
My customer has bought a used one that appears to be frozen. When I turn the 
key the barrel moves out from the handle. 

Many thanks 

Wes Keyes 
York, Maine 

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 19 11:16:43 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:16:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <20090719052959.KZQB5.38379.root@ispmxfep11-z01>
Message-ID: <27378.40372.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Steve, I also dislike the BJ8 'ugly' look.

So I lowered my car by having simple blocks made and inserted between the
spring and axle.  Drops the car by the thickness of the block - easy.  You
have my pics.

Blocks were machined from alu on cnc machine - cost me $60 each.  They have
the program on file obviously.

If you wish I could have the same shop make you a pair - just need to tell me
the thickness/drop that you want.

Originally I made 2 1/4 inch blocks for my car.  Turned out to be a bit too
low, so I made 2 more to better suite the age/sag of my original springs.  If
you buy new springs and want to lower by 2 1/4 inches you can have my original
blocks for free - they are steel not alu.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sun, 7/19/09, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> From: tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
> To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 3:29 AM
> On the BJ8, when adding new springs,
> you will find they sit pretty high.  IMO, that is an
> "ugly" look.
>
> When I bough my new springs about 10 years ago, I had then
> pre-sprung about 25% by a local commercial spring
> place.  The stance of the car looked so much better to
> me.  I found no problems driving over speed bumps
> either.
>
> Cheers
> tom
> ---- BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Sun Jul 19 13:04:44 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John Homonek)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 15:04:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex
In-Reply-To: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301ca080a$4ba7be20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <BC644BB44A28471DB62626F4DAC3DC39@HP20985147692>

Those in the AHCA or AHCUSA can buy direct from Pilkington in Ohio.  I
believe the rep's name was Shawn.  John Miner and I in the Atlanta Club have
bought direct and they give a discount too.  Shipping is well done and my 2
windscreens arrived in great shape.  John Miner actually bought his on site
in Ohio and carried it on a plane home to Atlanta.  I guess it was too big
to be considered a weapon.

Call them direct, tell them about your club affiliation and ask for the
discount.
I think I paid about $320.00 and was able to ship 2 for the same price as 1.
They have both the roadster and convertible styles...not sure about 100.

That should save all of you a little money!

John E. Homonek II
bn7 at mindspring.com
1959 3000 BN7 - 1974 Jensen-Healey

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Lyons
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 8:46 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Glass-Pilkington/Triplex

Hello All,

I am thinking about a new windshild for my BJ8.  I see that MOSS has a " 
Pilkington " windshield for
$430 and a "aftermarket" for $165. Can anyone tell me if the Pilkington is 
worth an extra $285.

What is the difference in the two windshields ?

Thanks,
Jim 
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 19 15:25:22 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 17:25:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
Message-ID: <20090719.142530.5383.22677@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>

Does anyone know the application for 14A 9904 , which is an oval shaped
gauge cluster. TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 19 16:02:03 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 17:02:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <630017247.2953551248003076948.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090719170203.WW7M8.41684.root@ispmxfep13-z02>

Just got home from the PVGP.  Mike was leading his class the whole time and was increasing his lead when the red flag came down.  An Alpha (I think) wrecked so that race was scrapped.  Sure hope they give him the win because he was leading the pack with no obvious challengers.

Mike---can you give us an update?

tom 
---- tomleavy at comcast.net wrote: 
> I can understand the enthusiasm of Mike's passenger. A month later, I am still grinning from ear to ear having been his passenger around a few laps at Shannonville! 
> 
> 
> Regards, Tom 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dht3000 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 16:22:33 2009
From: dht3000 at comcast.net (dean)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:22:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <20090719170203.WW7M8.41684.root@ispmxfep13-z02>
References: <20090719170203.WW7M8.41684.root@ispmxfep13-z02>
Message-ID: <771A4F110C6E4F8EAE94E421B423B5CE@DeanPC>

I just got a call about 4:30 and was told Michael did win.


Dean


> Just got home from the PVGP.  Mike was leading his class the whole time 
> and was increasing his lead when the red flag came down.  An Alpha (I 
> think) wrecked so that race was scrapped.  Sure hope they give him the win 
> because he was leading the pack with no obvious challengers.
>
> Mike---can you give us an update?
>
> tom
> ---- tomleavy at comcast.net wrote:
>> I can understand the enthusiasm of Mike's passenger. A month later, I am 
>> still grinning from ear to ear having been his passenger around a few 
>> laps at Shannonville!
>>
>>
>> Regards, Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dht3000 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Jul 19 16:33:22 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:33:22 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
Message-ID: <ca5.451f6ff3.3794f932@aol.com>

We ran more than 50% of the event--I think we completed 5 laps--and so it  
was an official race.  I started at the pole, kept the competition at  bay 
and won group 4 which is the "Pre-1960 Under Two Liters"  group.  I will be 
posting a video of the event to YouTube in the next few  days and will share 
it with the list.  
 
Best--Michael 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
 
 
In a message dated 7/19/2009 6:12:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tomfelts at windstream.net writes:

Mike---can you give us an  update?


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From ruvino at ripnet.com  Sun Jul 19 16:48:30 2009
From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:48:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] non healey-moon landing
Message-ID: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>

got to tell you this-apologies in advance.

40 years ago I had completed my doctorate and my wife and I (with little
money) decided to travel in France for 6 weeks. We were not keeping track of
time but it when  time we decided it was time to have a night in a first class
rather than a 4th class accomodation it turned out to be a wonderful hotel in
a park setting with a  3 star michelin restaurant. As we were sitting on the
patio we noticed this family of mom and dad (americans-we being their canadian
neighbours we new)  and little boy had a portable radio on their table (no
TV's in this place). While listening in we realized they were listening for
the moon landing-and so waas everybody in the place. Well when it happened we
all (staff included) stood up and clapped. The house provided the champagne.
Unbelieveable memory in the heart of Bordeaux.

From bighealey at astound.net  Sun Jul 19 17:31:22 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 16:31:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EOS
References: <007f01ca082e$692c9e10$2f01a8c0@yourvp7x3s9ctm>
Message-ID: <586677C5887E44AFBB5688D1A813D518@Soderling>

Al,
There is no recommended as a supplement amount by GM because it is a 
"break-in" lub.  I been adding 4 to 6 ounces per oil change.  I'm out of it 
now.
In the future, I'm going to use the STP Oil Treatment in the blue bottle.  I 
says it has added ZDDP (small print) and it's less than $4.00 a bottle.

Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Al Adams" <aajr at verizon.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 10:04 PM
Subject: [Healeys] EOS


>I just purchased a 16 oz. container of GM EOS. How much do I add when I 
>change
> the oil on my BJ7? Thanks.
>
> Al Adams
> 1963 BJ7

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul 19 21:24:27 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 20:24:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
References: <20090719.142530.5383.22677@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <2B12E902741546B39906498BF245FCB1@LIFEBOOK>

Any pictures?

Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster


> Does anyone know the application for 14A 9904 , which is an oval shaped
> gauge cluster. TIA.
> 
> Doug

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 18:31:07 2009
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 20:31:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>
References: <004c01ca0755$e6806830$b3813890$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W7C52A802AB6D1431A93CBC51D0@phx.gbl>

Here's Walter Cronkite test driving a big Healey.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bySosXZHnfI








> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:14:42 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite
>
> Just noticed the passing of this icon of broadcasting and remembered that
he
> was a Healey enthusiast and raced them
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cleona44 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_ML
OGEN_Local_Local_Restaurants_1x1

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul 19 21:57:11 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 20:57:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
References: <20090719.173107.13510.23228@mailpop04.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <2566CE7309B74442BB22D8A8EAD2DE1F@LIFEBOOK>

Austin Mini gauge cluster. The extra holes may be for a Cooper or some other 
modified version.

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster


> Rich,
>
> How's this?
>
> Doug
>
>> Any pictures?
>>
>> Rich
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:25 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
>>
>>
>> > Does anyone know the application for 14A 9904 , which is an oval
>> shaped
>> > gauge cluster. TIA.
>> >
>> > Doug
>> >
>>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click to publish your book fast with high quality presses.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEIOzMR5YzQmBY3hgB0uMIQUmbmJUj4cYmMNdg85tlh9o0nByEJyg/ 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of c225-gauges-thumb.jpg]

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 19 19:14:51 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:14:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
In-Reply-To: <2566CE7309B74442BB22D8A8EAD2DE1F@LIFEBOOK>
References: <20090719.173107.13510.23228@mailpop04.dca.untd.com>
	<2566CE7309B74442BB22D8A8EAD2DE1F@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4A63C50B.6020109@earthlink.net>

Google search turns up a couple of ebay listings - it's for the Mini 
Cooper and Mini Cooper S which had a couple of extra gauges, one on 
either side of the speedometer.  I have a 64 Cooper but my parts book 
doesn't have an index.

Rich C wrote:
> Austin Mini gauge cluster. The extra holes may be for a Cooper or some other 
> modified version.

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sun Jul 19 19:39:34 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:39:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
Message-ID: <001601ca08da$efa37480$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

The Mini Cooper/ Cooper 'S' Parts List says 14A 9904 is:

"Plate, instrument nacelle support"

The picture shows it fitting inside and behind the face of the black oval
instrument nacelle cover assembly.

Peter

From insptwo at msn.com  Sun Jul 19 19:57:37 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:57:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <ca5.451f6ff3.3794f932@aol.com>
References: <ca5.451f6ff3.3794f932@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W605E0C4AD7D07DF9A3219DAD1D0@phx.gbl>

Congrads Mike. Way to go!

Bill

BJ7

> From: Awgertoo at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:33:22 -0400
> To: tomfelts at windstream.net; tomleavy at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
>
> We ran more than 50% of the event--I think we completed 5 laps--and so it
> was an official race. I started at the pole, kept the competition at bay
> and won group 4 which is the "Pre-1960 Under Two Liters" group. I will be
> posting a video of the event to YouTube in the next few days and will share
> it with the list.
>
> Best--Michael
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
>
>
> In a message dated 7/19/2009 6:12:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tomfelts at windstream.net writes:
>
> Mike---can you give us an update?
>
>
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
> Steps!
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 19 20:30:36 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:30:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
Message-ID: <20090719.193058.5904.23765@mailpop02.dca.untd.com>

Thanks to all who responded. This is a great group!!

Doug

> Austin Mini gauge cluster. The extra holes may be for a Cooper or 
> some other 
> modified version.
> 
> Rich Chrysler
____________________________________________________________
Mardi Gras Beads
Let The Good Times Roll. Order Your Mardi Gras Throws And Beads Today.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=xW8PPkZRUhXhtzx2QAOJIQAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAUAAAAAAAAAAB6naD25FmUKZ6Ui1phVkp054X4HAAAAAA==

From healeydoc at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 22:20:30 2009
From: healeydoc at verizon.net (healeydoc at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:20:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <FBE2337B-E114-4E9B-B33B-D521DE210B1A@verizon.net>

Be very careful there are a lot of rear springs out there that come  
from India of Taiwan that are crap they will put the rear of the car  
up abourt 3"  to high. We have some from England that we have been  
using for several years and have not had any problems with them


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialis.com

On Jul 18, 2009, at 7:28 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear  
> spring.
> Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess  
> it's time
> to replace the rear springs.
>
> Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any  
> reason
> not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally  
> changed
> during a spring change?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 55healey at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 00:20:51 2009
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:20:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] non healey-moon landing
In-Reply-To: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>
References: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <A7EEAF24-A574-475C-8235-B5FABB9735CF@comcast.net>

I was watching in the Officers Club at Clark AFB in the Philippines,  
the place went nuts.

Rob


On Jul 19, 2009, at 3:48 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote:

> While listening in we realized they were listening for
> the moon landing-and so waas everybody in the place. Well when it  
> happened we
> all (staff included) stood up and clapped. The house provided the  
> champagne.
> Unbelieveable memory in the heart of Bordeaux.
> __________________________________________

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Jul 20 02:30:44 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:30:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3mE1BiD0sCZKFw+3@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Steve

Some of what I am about to say may repeat what others have said.

I don't know about suppliers but here are a few points to watch out for 
when changing rear springs.

If it is a long time since these were removed then the front pins may 
well be stuck solid in the silentbloc inner sleeve. Even if you release 
the tab and try to turn the pin then the whole inner sleeve will usually 
turn in the rubber. It is very difficult to get anything in place to 
drive the pin out and in any case it is easy to damage the chassis if 
one is over enthusiastic.

The technique that I have used is to use a one ended blade power Sabre 
Saw and cut through the pin both sides of the spring. It is worth 
getting close to the spring leaves so that one cuts through both the pin 
and the ends of the protruding silentbloc inner sleeve. Once the main 
spring is out the remaining parts are easily dealt with.

Obviously you will need new silentblocs if these do not come already 
fitted to the new springs but you would replace these anyway. You will 
also need replacement pins.

Regards

>
>On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
>Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's time
>to replace the rear springs.
>
>Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any reason
>not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally changed
>during a spring change?
>
-- 
John Harper

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Jul 20 02:10:12 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:10:12 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gauge Cluster
In-Reply-To: <20090719.142530.5383.22677@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090719.142530.5383.22677@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <vmAzBXBkZCZKFwdN@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Doug

I don't know the answer but as a clue a 14Axxxx part number would have 
been allocated to a small BMC saloon. The highest 14A number that I can 
find was used on an A55 countryman built from 1959 to 1961. 14A 9904 is 
higher than this so you are looking at cars like Minis or A40 Farina; 
but not necessarily one of these.

Regards

>Does anyone know the application for 14A 9904 , which is an oval shaped
>gauge cluster. TIA.
>
-- 
John Harper

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 02:49:41 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:49:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] non healey-moon landing
In-Reply-To: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>
References: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250907200149q4b49dcdi5325c379002b90cc@mail.gmail.com>

Don't think there is any time difference between Holland and France -  40
years ago my family watched the moon landing in the middle of the night - if
I remember correctly it was around 2 o'clock in the morning.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands

2009/7/20 Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino at ripnet.com>

> got to tell you this-apologies in advance.
>
> 40 years ago I had completed my doctorate and my wife and I (with little
> money) decided to travel in France for 6 weeks. We were not keeping track
> of
> time but it when  time we decided it was time to have a night in a first
> class
> rather than a 4th class accomodation it turned out to be a wonderful hotel
> in
> a park setting with a  3 star michelin restaurant. As we were sitting on
> the
> patio we noticed this family of mom and dad (americans-we being their
> canadian
> neighbours we new)  and little boy had a portable radio on their table (no
> TV's in this place). While listening in we realized they were listening for
> the moon landing-and so waas everybody in the place. Well when it happened
> we
> all (staff included) stood up and clapped. The house provided the
> champagne.
> Unbelieveable memory in the heart of Bordeaux.

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 06:26:10 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:26:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] non healey-moon landing
In-Reply-To: <A7EEAF24-A574-475C-8235-B5FABB9735CF@comcast.net>
References: <6A4CB76B607E40F9996AE35B1BF5B33B@RubinoPC>
	<A7EEAF24-A574-475C-8235-B5FABB9735CF@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000701ca0935$440fc000$cc2f4000$@rr.com>

I was working on the Apollo Applications Project at Marshall Space Flight
Center in Huntsville, Alabama at that time, but watching the video from the
moon on television at home.  It was a strange feeling to look at the TV and
then turn my head to look at the moon out my window and realize what was
going on up there.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of robert westcott
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 2:21 AM
To: Dr. C. Rubino
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non healey-moon landing

I was watching in the Officers Club at Clark AFB in the Philippines,  
the place went nuts.

Rob


On Jul 19, 2009, at 3:48 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote:

> While listening in we realized they were listening for
> the moon landing-and so waas everybody in the place. Well when it  
> happened we
> all (staff included) stood up and clapped. The house provided the  
> champagne.
> Unbelieveable memory in the heart of Bordeaux.
> __________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Jul 20 07:45:57 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 06:45:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Walter Cronkite
Message-ID: <000001ca0940$6baeb890$430c29b0$@com>

 I remember the half-hour "Twentieth Century" program from which this was
excerpted - "Sports Cars: The Rage to Race"

It was pretty cool back in the day. 

 

Didn't realize Cronkite had done a lot of endurance racing in a Volvo PV544!

 

Jim Lesher wrote:

 

Here's Walter Cronkite test driving a big Healey.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bySosXZHnfI

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jul 20 08:05:45 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:05:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave panel discussion
Message-ID: <d17.4c995db8.3795d3b9@aol.com>

I understand that someone recorded the Wisdom/Sprinzel/Riley panel  
discussion at Conclave. Does anyone know if there is a plan to make this  recording 
available? I really enjoyed hearing their stories & think it would  make 
for an interesting local club meeting. 
Also, I arrived late for the rally movie & John Sprinzel presentation.  
Very entertaining.
What rally & year was that?
Gary Hodson
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323041x1201367261/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From rkorn at simnet.is  Mon Jul 20 08:20:16 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 14:20:16 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave panel discussion
References: <d17.4c995db8.3795d3b9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E0C321CDF5394547AF728688C5738381@velad>

I believe it was the 1958 Alpine Rally...Great show, they couldn4t get the 
original soundtrack  to work so John Sprinzel made one up on the spot...That 
was a treat.

Richard
BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 2:05 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave panel discussion


>I understand that someone recorded the Wisdom/Sprinzel/Riley panel
> discussion at Conclave. Does anyone know if there is a plan to make this 
> recording
> available? I really enjoyed hearing their stories & think it would  make
> for an interesting local club meeting.
> Also, I arrived late for the rally movie & John Sprinzel presentation.
> Very entertaining.
> What rally & year was that?
> Gary Hodson
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
> Steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323041x1201367261/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 08:24:08 2009
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:24:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pilkington Glass Direct Buy
Message-ID: <000301ca0945$be7c96f0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Hello All,
Thanks for the response on the windshield glass.
I have decided to go with the Pilkington.

Does anyone know how to make the direct buy from Pilkington in Ohio.  John 
Homonek said this offer was available to members of AHCA or AHCUSA ?

Also, can anyone recommend a glass shop to install the glass in Upstate NY 
near Rochester ?

Jim 

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Jul 20 08:30:51 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:30:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit
References: <006f01ca07cf$125bef00$3713cd00$@net><BLU144-W278057FE981482E9258591DB1F0@phx.gbl>
	<007601ca07d4$0b59dbe0$220d93a0$@net>
Message-ID: <AF951966914E44CE96938EA486FC50FD@S0026273562>

Alternatively, put the float in the freezer for a while, then immerse it in 
very hot water -- as the air inside the float expands, it will bubble out 
the hole(s).  Same procedure for finding holes in carb floats.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: "'Dan'" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas gauge sender unit


> One of these days I will learn to look at my own site before I send out a
> SOS. Just too lazy I guess.
>
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> http://www.healey6.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 20 08:35:49 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:35:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear springs
In-Reply-To: <3mE1BiD0sCZKFw+3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <000c01ca07b4$1115a7a0$3340f6e0$@rr.com>
	<3mE1BiD0sCZKFw+3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4A6480C5.5020204@chello.nl>

If available it may be worth to replace the springs with parabolics 
(single leaf), usually slightly softer but no corrosion or wear between 
the leaves. Replace all pins, bolts, nuts, bushes, U-clamps etc. as a 
matter of course and fit using plenty of cupaslip.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

John Harper schreef:
> Steve
>
> Some of what I am about to say may repeat what others have said.
>
> I don't know about suppliers but here are a few points to watch out 
> for when changing rear springs.
>
> If it is a long time since these were removed then the front pins may 
> well be stuck solid in the silentbloc inner sleeve. Even if you 
> release the tab and try to turn the pin then the whole inner sleeve 
> will usually turn in the rubber. It is very difficult to get anything 
> in place to drive the pin out and in any case it is easy to damage the 
> chassis if one is over enthusiastic.
>
> The technique that I have used is to use a one ended blade power Sabre 
> Saw and cut through the pin both sides of the spring. It is worth 
> getting close to the spring leaves so that one cuts through both the 
> pin and the ends of the protruding silentbloc inner sleeve. Once the 
> main spring is out the remaining parts are easily dealt with.
>
> Obviously you will need new silentblocs if these do not come already 
> fitted to the new springs but you would replace these anyway. You will 
> also need replacement pins.
>
> Regards
>
>>
>> On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
>> Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's 
>> time
>> to replace the rear springs.
>>
>> Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week.  Is there any 
>> reason
>> not to buy the springs from Moss?  What other parts are normally changed
>> during a spring change?
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2249 - Release Date: 07/19/09 17:59:00

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 08:35:30 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 10:35:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale Info - end of story
Message-ID: <BD41D142DC9E4242BF4524A6E265B91A@universal1>

    Last week I asked for info on a BJ-8 for sale in Illinois. An acquaintance
here near Pittsburgh was very interested.

    When we went back to the seller his listed phone number was unavailable as
was an alternate number and the car had been removed from the web-site
(Auto-Trader . com)

    It was a recent restoration to near perfect condition for $12,900.00.

    So, someone got a great deal or it was an attempted scam. I'm voting for
the latter.

    Case Closed - unless you-all have additional comments. Thanks for all the
return info and offers to go look at the car.

    Regards,

                                                                    CB

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Jul 20 08:36:06 2009
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:36:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper part for BN1 urgently needed
References: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D1B@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629D42@dw01.ruda.local>

During the long restoration of my BN1 I lost one of the distance pieces
of the wiper wheelboxes. This is the cast aluminum "tube" which slides
over the wiper shaft on the BN1 wiper wheel box. It makes the wiper
shaft protrude in exactly the right angle through the front shroud.
Anyone out there has a spare??

Any help highly appreciated.


Thomas Willig

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jul 20 09:09:30 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:09:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?moon_landing?=
Message-ID: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>

i was in flight training at Randolph AFB where we had two astronouts getting their jet ratings in our class.  we had a huge party at someone's house with everybody yelling and backslapping.  it was great.     hjim

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Mon Jul 20 09:28:48 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:28:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4A648D30.4030709@club-internet.fr>

Who were the two?
B

healeymanjim at hansencc.net a icrit :
> i was in flight training at Randolph AFB where we had two astronouts getting their jet ratings in our class.  we had a huge party at someone's house with everybody yelling and backslapping.  it was great.     hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From al at bighealey.org  Mon Jul 20 09:38:12 2009
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:38:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mich Fall wind-up Oct 2-4
Message-ID: <006801ca0950$17d1f5b0$4775e110$@org>

All:



While the summer driving season is still in full effect, I'd like to remind
those of you in the Ontario-Michigan-Illinois-Indiana-Ohio areas about the
plans for our "Fall Wind-Up".  This year's Fall Wind-Up is being held in
Lake Orion, Michigan in southeast Michigan, in a wooded and beautiful area
some 50+ miles north of the Detroit area.



This event is jointly held between the southern Ontario and Southeast
Michigan chapters, and is open to all ACHA members, and we already have
entries from several members in both chapters - please join us!!



Dates:                  October 2 - 4, 2009 [Friday - Sunday]

Activities:            Welcome party

Chrysler Museum tour [others available]

Car show

Custom made stained glass Austin Healey "Best of Show" trophy

Box lunch

                              Rally

                              Indoor funkahna

                              Directed raffle

                              Simulator driving competition

                              Hospitality rooms each evening

                              Catered banquet dinner

                              Usual Healey camaraderie

Registration:       Al Fuller  fallwindup at bighealey.org

Information:       http://www.semahc.com/2009_Events_Calendar.html

Reg Form:           http://www.semahc.com/FWU_2009_Reg_.pdf



Al Fuller

'62 BT-7

'65 BJ-8

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Mon Jul 20 09:46:23 2009
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:46:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EOS
References: <007f01ca082e$692c9e10$2f01a8c0@yourvp7x3s9ctm>
Message-ID: <3D9E0F3A0DDE45AF94F7F6B8B92D1027@FRED>

I did some research based on data in a detailed report from LN Engineering 
(www.lnengineering.com/oil.html).  Based on that data, I'm using 1 1/2 pints 
of EOS with 6 1/4 quarts of Chevron Delo 400.  This blend gives 
approximately the same ratio of Zinc and Phosphorus as the "old" Delo that 
was used before diesel trucks had to have catalytic converters.

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2



>I just purchased a 16 oz. container of GM EOS. How much do I add when I 
>change
> the oil on my BJ7? Thanks.
>
> Al Adams
> 1963 BJ7

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Mon Jul 20 09:47:16 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:47:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>

Here's an un-released clip of the "giant leap" moment bit:

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/moonwalk.wmv

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 09:54:10 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:54:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <ca5.451f6ff3.3794f932@aol.com>
References: <ca5.451f6ff3.3794f932@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A649322.3090805@comcast.net>

Michael,
Each time that you came past our vantage point at the top of the 
serpentine at turn 18, Manley Ford was hot on your heels.
Apparently other places you were able to pull away a bit?
Looking forward to the video on YouTube.
Charlie

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> We ran more than 50% of the event--I think we completed 5 laps--and so it  
> was an official race.  I started at the pole, kept the competition at  bay 
> and won group 4 which is the "Pre-1960 Under Two Liters"  group.  I will be 
> posting a video of the event to YouTube in the next few  days and will share 
> it with the list.  
>  
> Best--Michael 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
>  
>  
> In a message dated 7/19/2009 6:12:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> tomfelts at windstream.net writes:
>
> Mike---can you give us an  update?
>
>
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
> Steps! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585099x1201462822/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 10:15:30 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 02:15:30 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
	<9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
Message-ID: <f39489810907200915r24e84529r14d83a8e26cb6ed1@mail.gmail.com>

Geez, I remember the Moon landing.... I watched it at school, on a Black &
White TV, in the Assembly Hall....
I was 8 years old. And I collected all the newspaper clippings/
commemorative newspaper covers etc etc. No idea where they are now -
landfill I expect.
Humbling.
Chris



On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 1:47 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net>wrote:

> Here's an un-released clip of the "giant leap" moment bit:
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/moonwalk.wmv
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as austin.healey at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gaagten at hetnet.nl  Mon Jul 20 10:16:47 2009
From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:16:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
Message-ID: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>

Hello,
Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage I
noticed a strange behavour of my brakes.
The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just drove
some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several times
resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved
anymore).
However after a little time the brakes released themselves again.
My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The servo is on
the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km)
So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I have
probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed
servo.

Any other idea

Thanks and regards,
Ge Aagten
BJ8
The Netherlands

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 20 10:21:03 2009
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:21:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
Message-ID: <900013.24623.qm@web83915.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

 Pushing the brake pedal several times
resulted in blocking of the front
brakes and the car could not be moved
anymore).
However after a little time
the brakes released themselves again.


More likely a rubber brake line has
collapsedinside where it can't be seen. 
When you push the pedal to force
fluid through the line opens, but fluid can not 
return due to the old brake
line. If your rubber lines to the caliper are old 
I would repace them first
before attacking the servo as the problem.

Bob

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Mon Jul 20 10:23:45 2009
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:23:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
Message-ID: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>

Hi all,

I'm trying to sort out my 3 point type seat belts on the BJ7. My 
understanding is the drive shaft tunnel has an eyelet anchor point 
(eyelet bolted to side of tunnel). The short belt (with buckle) is 
attached to the eyelet with a hook type clasp.

My question concerns the outboard attachment. Is that also supposed to 
be a hook type clasp going to an eyelet? Or does the outboard belt just 
bolt directly to the floor? My belts have just a simple single hole 
bracket for this end. I could bolt this to the floor but then the belt 
routing isn't great i.e. it would be better if the belt bracket was 
perpendicular to the floor.

The factory service bulletin A-437 
<http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf> shows some type 
of 90 degree bracket. But at the same time they don't show any eyelets 
and hook type clasps being used.

They also show the bracket for the rear wheel arch (shoulder belt 
attachment) having a two hole bracket. My belt has just one hole in the 
bracket.

Any guidance appreciated!

Cheers,
John

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 10:29:11 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey])
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 02:29:11 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <900013.24623.qm@web83915.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
	<900013.24623.qm@web83915.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f39489810907200929w53432ffbg66bfa152228dd496@mail.gmail.com>

Agree with Bob 100%
Replace the flexible Brake hoses (all 3) - one to each caliper, and the
single flexible line to the rear Brakes at the diff centre.
A Booster failure doesn't generally stop the car from moving, nor fix
itself. And replacing 3 x flexible brake hoses is about 1/4 - 1/5 the cost
of rebuiling a BJ8 original booster.
Did you replace these hoses previously?
Chris
http://www.myaustinhealey.com



On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 2:21 AM, Bob Brown <blkbt7 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>  Pushing the brake pedal several times
> resulted in blocking of the front
> brakes and the car could not be moved
> anymore).
> However after a little time
> the brakes released themselves again.
>
>
> More likely a rubber brake line has
> collapsedinside where it can't be seen.
> When you push the pedal to force
> fluid through the line opens, but fluid can not
> return due to the old brake
> line. If your rubber lines to the caliper are old
> I would repace them first
> before attacking the servo as the problem.
>
> Bob
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as austin.healey at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 10:39:20 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:39:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
Message-ID: <1016567134.3254111248107960599.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

A quick test you can perform on the servo: hold (foot) pressure on the brake pedal when you start the car. If the servo is working, the pedal should go down an inch (25.4mm) or so when the engine starts. 

I agree with others about the flexible lines. 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gaagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl> 
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 9:16:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo 

Hello, 
Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage I 
noticed a strange behavour of my brakes. 
The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just drove 
some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several times 
resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved 
anymore). 
However after a little time the brakes released themselves again. 
My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The servo is on 
the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km) 
So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I have 
probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed 
servo. 

Any other idea 

Thanks and regards, 
Ge Aagten 
BJ8 
The Netherlands 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Jul 20 13:54:09 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:54:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com><9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
	<f39489810907200915r24e84529r14d83a8e26cb6ed1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <27C3B8A57D404F6F98DB94E7D0E0E9F1@LIFEBOOK>

I also remember it well as I was 16. We were on a family camping vacation 
(last one I took with the folks) and were set up beside a lake in a park in 
new Liskeard, Ontario. It was a warm and beautiful summer evening and we 
listened on our old Zenith transistor AM radio while looking up at the moon 
shining over the lake. I remember Dad telling us those boys are up there 
while we were listening to history happen.

Rich Chrysler 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 11:04:10 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:04:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <27C3B8A57D404F6F98DB94E7D0E0E9F1@LIFEBOOK>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com><9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
	<f39489810907200915r24e84529r14d83a8e26cb6ed1@mail.gmail.com>
	<27C3B8A57D404F6F98DB94E7D0E0E9F1@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <001401ca095c$1a566030$4f032090$@net>

My parents were visiting me at the time (I lived in Seattle and they were
still in the SF Bay Area). We watched it on my B&W tv. My father was excited
because he was born before the Wright Brothers flight and was proud that he
lived through what at that time was the entire history of manned powered
flight. He grew up with horses pulling the plows on his parents farm. Quite
a dramatic change.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 3:54 PM
To: Chris Dimmock [Healey]; Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] moon landing

I also remember it well as I was 16. We were on a family camping vacation
(last one I took with the folks) and were set up beside a lake in a park in
new Liskeard, Ontario. It was a warm and beautiful summer evening and we
listened on our old Zenith transistor AM radio while looking up at the moon
shining over the lake. I remember Dad telling us those boys are up there
while we were listening to history happen.

Rich Chrysler
_______________________________________________

From medlabinc at msn.com  Mon Jul 20 12:08:05 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:08:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  moon landing
Message-ID: <COL109-DS13EF9669C4DD28B50DF595A21D0@phx.gbl>

Great memory.  But then again did you see the  uncut video posted Eric Wilkins
?

Dick Matson / Bj8
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich C<mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: Chris Dimmock [Healey]<mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] moon landing


I also remember it well as I was 16. We were on a family camping vacation
(last one I took with the folks) and were set up beside a lake in a park in
new Liskeard, Ontario. It was a warm and beautiful summer evening and we
listened on our old Zenith transistor AM radio while looking up at the moon
shining over the lake. I remember Dad telling us those boys are up there
while we were listening to history happen.

Rich Chrysler

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 12:16:38 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:16:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS13EF9669C4DD28B50DF595A21D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS13EF9669C4DD28B50DF595A21D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <471534970907201116n6e5ae8d0u2cf57c0e9274f671@mail.gmail.com>

I'll admit that I wasn't even a twinkle when we landed on the moon.

That being said, I used to run a NASA Data facility and had all of the
film footage from every Apollo mission on videocassette. I used to
watch the videos all the time and for a long time, just played them
one after the other as background noice in the lab. They were always
so amazing to watch.

I wonder if anyone at Nasa has thought to convert them to DVD yet.
They're considered public information now, I wonder if I should borrow
them and make DVDs.

Jody

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:08 AM, Dick Matson<medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:
> Great memory.  But then again did you see the  uncut video posted Eric
Wilkins
> ?
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rich C<mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: Chris Dimmock [Healey]<mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] moon landing
>
>
> I also remember it well as I was 16. We were on a family camping vacation
> (last one I took with the folks) and were set up beside a lake in a park in
> new Liskeard, Ontario. It was a warm and beautiful summer evening and we
> listened on our old Zenith transistor AM radio while looking up at the moon
> shining over the lake. I remember Dad telling us those boys are up there
> while we were listening to history happen.
>
> Rich Chrysler
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 20 12:17:22 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
In-Reply-To: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>
References: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>
Message-ID: <793452.40834.qm@web110311.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Think a lot of belts are different--but my belts(BMC) have 2-piece hooks which
swivel together to fasten to a eyelet; the shoulder belt has one hole. I
fastened the shoulder belts to the closest chrome nut stud on the side
swab?(been that way for years). The 'floor' connections are hooked to forged
eyelet studs probably screwed in the hole in the rear tunnel and
probably(don't remember) thru a hole between the inner sill and seat
back{about 3-4" behind hinge point; be sure and use a big washer under this.
If your floor connections on the belts just have a hole you should probably
make thick brackets for straight pulls.
R




________________________________
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:23:45 PM
Subject:
[Healeys] seat belt attachment question

Hi all,

I'm trying to sort out my 3
point type seat belts on the BJ7. My understanding is the drive shaft tunnel
has an eyelet anchor point (eyelet bolted to side of tunnel). The short belt
(with buckle) is attached to the eyelet with a hook type clasp.

My question
concerns the outboard attachment. Is that also supposed to be a hook type
clasp going to an eyelet? Or does the outboard belt just bolt directly to the
floor? My belts have just a simple single hole bracket for this end. I could
bolt this to the floor but then the belt routing isn't great i.e. it would be
better if the belt bracket was perpendicular to the floor.

The factory
service bulletin A-437 <http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf>
shows some type of 90 degree bracket. But at the same time they don't show any
eyelets and hook type clasps being used.

They also show the bracket for the
rear wheel arch (shoulder belt attachment) having a two hole bracket. My belt
has just one hole in the bracket.

Any guidance appreciated!

Cheers,
John
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 12:21:38 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:21:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
In-Reply-To: <471534970907201116n6e5ae8d0u2cf57c0e9274f671@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL109-DS13EF9669C4DD28B50DF595A21D0@phx.gbl>
	<471534970907201116n6e5ae8d0u2cf57c0e9274f671@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <173126440907201121s3915bb4ard2f04337f147fb29@mail.gmail.com>

I was 14 and followed every launch from the first mercury flight. I was an
amazing time for science, adventure and discovery.Ira Erbs

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:16 AM, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'll admit that I wasn't even a twinkle when we landed on the moon.
>
> That being said, I used to run a NASA Data facility and had all of the
> film footage from every Apollo mission on videocassette. I used to
> watch the videos all the time and for a long time, just played them
> one after the other as background noice in the lab. They were always
> so amazing to watch.
>
> I wonder if anyone at Nasa has thought to convert them to DVD yet.
> They're considered public information now, I wonder if I should borrow
> them and make DVDs.
>
> Jody
>
> On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:08 AM, Dick Matson<medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:
> > Great memory.  But then again did you see the  uncut video posted Eric
> Wilkins
> > ?
> >
> > Dick Matson / Bj8
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Rich C<mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> > To: Chris Dimmock [Healey]<mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] moon landing
> >
> >
> > I also remember it well as I was 16. We were on a family camping vacation
> > (last one I took with the folks) and were set up beside a lake in a park
> in
> > new Liskeard, Ontario. It was a warm and beautiful summer evening and we
> > listened on our old Zenith transistor AM radio while looking up at the
> moon
> > shining over the lake. I remember Dad telling us those boys are up there
> > while we were listening to history happen.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on
> ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 12:28:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:28:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
In-Reply-To: <471534970907201116n6e5ae8d0u2cf57c0e9274f671@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <340381737.3309511248114511097.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Read an article the other day said NASA had recorded over most of the moon landing tapes. 

Still got those videocassettes? 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> 
To: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com> 
Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 11:16:38 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing 

I'll admit that I wasn't even a twinkle when we landed on the moon. 

That being said, I used to run a NASA Data facility and had all of the 
film footage from every Apollo mission on videocassette. I used to 
watch the videos all the time and for a long time, just played them 
one after the other as background noice in the lab. They were always 
so amazing to watch. 

I wonder if anyone at Nasa has thought to convert them to DVD yet. 
They're considered public information now, I wonder if I should borrow 
them and make DVDs. 

Jody 

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 12:31:10 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:31:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
In-Reply-To: <340381737.3309511248114511097.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <471534970907201116n6e5ae8d0u2cf57c0e9274f671@mail.gmail.com>
	<340381737.3309511248114511097.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <471534970907201131o4a5d0eb7q534481343764a747@mail.gmail.com>

They're in the lab. Since they were "old stuff" most of the
scientists/researchers/grad students weren't terribly interested in
them. I'm willing to bet they're sitting right where I left them with
7 years of accumulated dust on them.

Jody

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:28 AM, Bob Spidell<bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> Read an article the other day said NASA had recorded over most of the moon
> landing tapes.
>
> Still got those videocassettes?
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com>
> To: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
> Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 11:16:38 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
>
> I'll admit that I wasn't even a twinkle when we landed on the moon.
>
> That being said, I used to run a NASA Data facility and had all of the
> film footage from every Apollo mission on videocassette. I used to
> watch the videos all the time and for a long time, just played them
> one after the other as background noice in the lab. They were always
> so amazing to watch.
>
> I wonder if anyone at Nasa has thought to convert them to DVD yet.
> They're considered public information now, I wonder if I should borrow
> them and make DVDs.
>
> Jody
>
>
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 12:37:16 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:37:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing
In-Reply-To: <471534970907201131o4a5d0eb7q534481343764a747@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1416560535.3314891248115036235.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

http://www.reuters.com/article/newsOne/idUSTRE56F5MK20090716 


Oz to the rescue!: 

http://www.express.co.uk/posts/view/110442/WORLD-EXCLUSIVE-NASA-finds-missing-moon-landing-tapes 



bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com> 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 11:31:10 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: moon landing 

They're in the lab. Since they were "old stuff" most of the 
scientists/researchers/grad students weren't terribly interested in 
them. I'm willing to bet they're sitting right where I left them with 
7 years of accumulated dust on them. 

Jody 

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 11:28 AM, Bob Spidell<bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Read an article the other day said NASA had recorded over most of the moon 
> landing tapes. 
> 
> Still got those videocassettes? 
> 
> 
> bs 

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul 20 12:42:39 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 14:42:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
Message-ID: <8CBD780FDCAD06E-202C-4B331@webmailalpo-m06.sysops.aol.com>

Ge
Although the brake hoses may be bad they don't usually fail all at 
once. The Girling servo on the other hand will lock up the brakes 
quickly. I vote for a failing servo. My experience is that the vacuum 
piston sticks in the pressure on position due to fluid in the can and 
will release when the large spring overcomes the friction between the 
piston leather seal and the can bore. In really bad cases the piston 
does not release on its own and the hydraulic pressure in the line must 
be released by cracking a fitting open a bit in order to move the car. 
The servo will usually lock all four wheels if the rear shoes are in 
adjustment. A rebuild or replacement is in order.
Aloha
Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Gaagten <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
To: Healey forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 20, 2009 6:16 am
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo



Hello,
Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage 
I
noticed a strange behavour of my brakes.
The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just 
drove
some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several 
times
resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved
anymore).
However after a little time the brakes released themselves again.
My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The 
servo is on
the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km)
So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I 
have
probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed
servo.

Any other idea

Thanks and regards,
Ge Aagten
BJ8
The Netherlands
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyguy at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Mon Jul 20 12:58:52 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 14:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
In-Reply-To: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>
References: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4A64BE6B.8090807@htcnet.org>

The Nocks have a floor bolted bracket that allows the seat belt bracket 
to be perpendicular to the floor.  I just installed a set of them.

John


John Loftus wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm trying to sort out my 3 point type seat belts on the BJ7. My 
> understanding is the drive shaft tunnel has an eyelet anchor point 
> (eyelet bolted to side of tunnel). The short belt (with buckle) is 
> attached to the eyelet with a hook type clasp.
>
> My question concerns the outboard attachment. Is that also supposed to 
> be a hook type clasp going to an eyelet? Or does the outboard belt 
> just bolt directly to the floor? My belts have just a simple single 
> hole bracket for this end. I could bolt this to the floor but then the 
> belt routing isn't great i.e. it would be better if the belt bracket 
> was perpendicular to the floor.
>
> The factory service bulletin A-437 
> <http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf> shows some type 
> of 90 degree bracket. But at the same time they don't show any eyelets 
> and hook type clasps being used.
>
> They also show the bracket for the rear wheel arch (shoulder belt 
> attachment) having a two hole bracket. My belt has just one hole in 
> the bracket.
>
> Any guidance appreciated!
>
> Cheers,
> John

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Mon Jul 20 14:10:22 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:10:22 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
Message-ID: <bec.425240a6.3796292e@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 11:54:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mgcharlie at comcast.net writes:

Apparently other places you were able to pull away a bit?
Looking  forward to the video on YouTube.



Yes, he would get close to me at the top of the course, then I  would pull 
away from him as we went down the serpentines, by the start/finish,  up the 
hill and over the bridge, etc.  Frankly my goal was simply to  beat him, not 
to lose him OR go off course somewhere!
 
I will be posting some video by tomorrow--the one from the  feature will 
probably not be very exciting as I started on the pole  and finished first, 
but I will also put up one from Saturday's qualifier where I  was chasing a 
fast TD and an equally fast MGA for the entire session and  fortunately wound 
up with the best lap time to get the pole in the  feature.
 
Best--Michael  
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323041x1201367261/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jul 20 14:39:27 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:39:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
In-Reply-To: <bec.425240a6.3796292e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090720153927.6J5M2.57794.root@ispmxfep10-z02>

Dick Gaier and I were yelling and cheering Mike as he went around, but, of course, he couldn't hear us.  You put on a great show Mike.

BTW, any of the Healey guys who can, you really need to think about the PVGP as a premier show for you to attend.  It is always in July of each year and has a web site to review.

Many many Brit cars, Italian, German, American, Miata's, on and on, and the race is very special as it is on city streats with a few hay bales and barriers strategically placed.

The event is BIG and VERY enjoyable.

Cheers
tom 
---- Awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 7/20/2009 11:54:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> mgcharlie at comcast.net writes:
> 
> Apparently other places you were able to pull away a bit?
> Looking  forward to the video on YouTube.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, he would get close to me at the top of the course, then I  would pull 
> away from him as we went down the serpentines, by the start/finish,  up the 
> hill and over the bridge, etc.  Frankly my goal was simply to  beat him, not 
> to lose him OR go off course somewhere!
>  
> I will be posting some video by tomorrow--the one from the  feature will 
> probably not be very exciting as I started on the pole  and finished first, 
> but I will also put up one from Saturday's qualifier where I  was chasing a 
> fast TD and an equally fast MGA for the entire session and  fortunately wound 
> up with the best lap time to get the pole in the  feature.
>  
> Best--Michael  
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
> Steps! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323041x1201367261/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 15:21:14 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 14:21:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Seat Belt Harness Mounting
Message-ID: <D52EDE16-4BEA-4F7F-AC47-9110A28FCE94@comcast.net>

Richard,

I have a three point harness in my BJ8.  I have the short section of  
the lap belt connected to an eyebolt threaded into the side of the  
transmission tunnel, i.e., the rearward metal section of the tunnel.   
One end of the shoulder strap/lap belt is anchored to the floor by way  
of a second eyebolt that is threaded vertically through the floor.  I  
wish there was a better way of doing this because when there is no  
tension on the webbing the spring loaded clasp falls over and lays on  
the floor and nearly always finds its way into a poor position  
requiring messing around with it every time I get into the car.   I  
think the fix to this annouyance is to rig the webbing anchor so that  
the belt is held vertical.  Finally, the other end of the shoulder  
strap/lap belt webbing is anchored by a special hardware item anchored  
by two studs located near the top of the rear wheel arches.  The  
special hardware item can be found in British Car Specialists "Rare  
and Hard to Find  Parts Catalogue".  I believe the seat belt anchoring  
points in my car were installed in the factory.  All three anchor  
points have heavy additional metal plates welded in place to take the  
load if necessary.  The holes are also threaded to receive the  
eyebolts.   I have the eyebolts threaded into place and then locked  
there by a nut on the underside of the mounting location.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From dhugh at tscnet.com  Mon Jul 20 15:49:08 2009
From: dhugh at tscnet.com (Robert D. Hughes)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 14:49:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moon landing
Message-ID: <auto-000403938275@donobi.com>

I was at home watching it on a Heathkit color TV that I just finished 
assembling two days before.  The excuse for buying
the kit was to watch the moon landing -- which was in 
black-and-white!  The tube kit was on sale because Heathkit had
recently introduced their transistorized model.  Worked great for 
several years, generating Healey quantities of heat.

I grew up on science fiction and was excited about us finally going 
to the moon -- but I was just blown away watching it
happen real-time!  Incredible achievement, perhaps only passed by the 
effort that saved the Apollo 13 astronauts!!

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
60 AN5

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 16:20:29 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 06:20:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907201520l5442d994w8a3c3e9cf914bf8@mail.gmail.com>

Ge -

A broken servo will not cause these types os symptoms so your servo is
probably ok.

Repace you flexible rubber brake hoses, it sounds like that is your
problem.  One of them has delaminated inside.

Alan

On 7/21/09, Gaagten <gaagten at hetnet.nl> wrote:
> Hello,
> Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage I
> noticed a strange behavour of my brakes.
> The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just drove
> some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several times
> resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved
> anymore).
> However after a little time the brakes released themselves again.
> My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The servo is
> on
> the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km)
> So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I have
> probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed
> servo.
>
> Any other idea
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Jul 20 16:44:59 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907201520l5442d994w8a3c3e9cf914bf8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
	<ff59076c0907201520l5442d994w8a3c3e9cf914bf8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004a01ca098b$b703bca0$250b35e0$@com>

Actually I think this may be a servo problem. If the piston the servo does
not return all the way the symptoms are similar to those when the master
cylinder push rod is not adjusted correctly. 
The check, the best trick I know of, is to create the locked on brake
situation then with the engine turned off tap the brake pedal gently a few
times which will usually result in the servo piston returning to its home
position and the brakes releasing. 
Usually when a brake hose collapses the brake pedal feels normal and one
front or both rear brakes are locked on.

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 6:20 PM
To: Gaagten; Healey forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake servo

Ge -

A broken servo will not cause these types os symptoms so your servo is
probably ok.

Repace you flexible rubber brake hoses, it sounds like that is your
problem.  One of them has delaminated inside.

Alan

On 7/21/09, Gaagten <gaagten at hetnet.nl> wrote:
> Hello,
> Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage I
> noticed a strange behavour of my brakes.
> The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just drove
> some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several times
> resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved
> anymore).
> However after a little time the brakes released themselves again.
> My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The servo
is
> on
> the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km)
> So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I have
> probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed
> servo.
>
> Any other idea
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 20 17:39:19 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
In-Reply-To: <4A649A11.9010409@cox.net>
Message-ID: <318134.57373.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

John Loftus  Down load our Rare and Hard To Find Catalog and see page 28 ..
seat belt fittings ... Norman Nock

--- On Mon, 7/20/09, John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net> wrote:

From: John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
To: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 20, 2009, 9:23 AM

Hi all,

I'm trying to sort out my 3 point type seat belts on the BJ7. My understanding
is the drive shaft tunnel has an eyelet anchor point (eyelet bolted to side of
tunnel). The short belt (with buckle) is attached to the eyelet with a hook
type clasp.

My question concerns the outboard attachment. Is that also supposed to be a
hook type clasp going to an eyelet? Or does the outboard belt just bolt
directly to the floor? My belts have just a simple single hole bracket for
this end. I could bolt this to the floor but then the belt routing isn't great
i.e. it would be better if the belt bracket was perpendicular to the floor.

The factory service bulletin A-437
<http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf> shows some type of 90
degree bracket. But at the same time they don't show any eyelets and hook type
clasps being used.

They also show the bracket for the rear wheel arch (shoulder belt attachment)
having a two hole bracket. My belt has just one hole in the bracket.

Any guidance appreciated!

Cheers,
John
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From johnlink1 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 18:37:03 2009
From: johnlink1 at comcast.net (John Linkosky)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 20:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Michael Oritt at PVGP
Message-ID: <001101ca099b$5e042030$1a0c6090$@net>

Nice race Michael. I was at the start/finish line and it looked to me like
you had the situation with the second car well at hand. John

From pollpete at ix.netcom.com  Mon Jul 20 18:38:49 2009
From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:38:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
	<9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4A650E19.3040205@ix.netcom.com>

"the moontruth.com site eventually published a disclaimer 
<http://web.archive.org/web/20030610181152/moontruth.com/full.htm> 
noting that:
Yes, the clip is fake. It was shot in a studio in London in spring 2002."

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/hoaxes/moonhoax.asp



Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote:
> Here's an un-released clip of the "giant leap" moment bit:
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/moonwalk.wmv
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as pollpete at ix.netcom.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
IMPORTANT - PLEASE NOTE
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this in error please contact the sender and destroy this message.

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Mon Jul 20 19:52:22 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:52:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] moon landing
In-Reply-To: <4A650E19.3040205@ix.netcom.com>
References: <20090720150930.20575.qmail@server278.com>
	<9AA290D7-A4AD-43ED-9C44-C4030327058E@cox.net>
	<4A650E19.3040205@ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <85740C5E-5875-48F5-B8AC-1FAE1C1D1AD0@cox.net>

Just for the record: I posted it as a joke. I'm not a "truther" and I  
know we landed on the moon.

Here's a link with real pictures of many landing sites:

www.nasa.gov

On Jul 20, 2009, at 5:38 PM, P.M. Pollock wrote:

> "the moontruth.com site eventually published a disclaimer <http://web.archive.org/web/20030610181152/moontruth.com/full.htm 
> > noting that:
> Yes, the clip is fake. It was shot in a studio in London in spring  
> 2002."
>
> http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/hoaxes/moonhoax.asp

From bighealey at astound.net  Mon Jul 20 21:32:55 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 20:32:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rendezvous 2009 Photos
Message-ID: <3FB838A8284640C08C27267A958992BB@Soderling>

Here are some photos from Healey Rendezvous 2009 held last month in the
California Gold Country at Jackson, CA.  It was a terrific event put on by the
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club with Healeys from eight states plus British
Columbia attending.
http://www.goldengatehealeys.com/4images/categories.php?cat_id=7

Vrooom vrooom,
John

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 22:03:41 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 21:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Black
Message-ID: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net>

A while back I asked the List for recommendations for something to restore that 
'new' look to tires.  I got a lot of good advice, but hadn't come across any 
recommended products in a convenient store (and I'm too lazy/cheap to order 
online and pay shipping).

Anyway, I was at Pep Boys the other day getting other stuff when I noticed a 
product called 'Black Magic Titanium Matte Tire Finish' amongst the myriad boy 
racer 'wet look' products.  So I bought a bottle and gave it a try and it did 
exactly what I wanted; i.e. restore the original, new tire color without the 
phony, glossy look.  Not cheap at about $10 for a quart or so, but worth it IMO.

Thought I'd pass it along.


Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 00:34:17 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 14:34:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Black
In-Reply-To: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net>
References: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>

I wonder, would black shoe polish work?

On 7/21/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> A while back I asked the List for recommendations for something to restore
> that
> 'new' look to tires.  I got a lot of good advice, but hadn't come across any
> recommended products in a convenient store (and I'm too lazy/cheap to order
> online and pay shipping).
>
> Anyway, I was at Pep Boys the other day getting other stuff when I noticed a
> product called 'Black Magic Titanium Matte Tire Finish' amongst the myriad
> boy
> racer 'wet look' products.  So I bought a bottle and gave it a try and it
> did
> exactly what I wanted; i.e. restore the original, new tire color without the
> phony, glossy look.  Not cheap at about $10 for a quart or so, but worth it
> IMO.
>
> Thought I'd pass it along.
>
>
> Bob
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul 21 01:02:25 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 21:02:25 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Black
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net>,
	<ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cb47f0b1.1f95.40d0.8e2b.b0aba11a2901@aol.com>

We can recommend No Touch Tire Care from Permantex. The directions imply that you just spray on and let it dry.  The trick to get the new tire look is to let the foam set on the tire for a minute or so and then wipe it off with a shop rag. The foam lifts the brown tire oxidation and grime and rubbing it down removes the extra gloss.  Provides a clean slightly more than matte finish. It will stain the concrete driveway/garage floor so lay down a bit of protection before spraying.  Cost varies on where you buy it. 
Aloha
Perry

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Jul 21 01:22:04 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:22:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Black
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B252B37483034ED18D1BDC7A214788BE@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Black shoe polish works very well indeed if the pigment is still in the
tyre. However if we go back to the start of this thread the problem was that
some of the pigment had leached out.

Any product that contains a pigment will be suitable. I have used 'Forever
Black' with great success and it doesn't leave a shiny finish.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Tuesday, 21 July 2009 4:34 PM
To: Bob Spidell; healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tire Black

I wonder, would black shoe polish work?

On 7/21/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> A while back I asked the List for recommendations for something to restore
> that
> 'new' look to tires.  I got a lot of good advice, but hadn't come across
any
> recommended products in a convenient store (and I'm too lazy/cheap to
order
> online and pay shipping).
>
> Anyway, I was at Pep Boys the other day getting other stuff when I noticed
a
> product called 'Black Magic Titanium Matte Tire Finish' amongst the myriad
> boy
> racer 'wet look' products.  So I bought a bottle and gave it a try and it
> did
> exactly what I wanted; i.e. restore the original, new tire color without
the
> phony, glossy look.  Not cheap at about $10 for a quart or so, but worth
it
> IMO.
>
> Thought I'd pass it along.
>
>
> Bob
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 21 02:58:02 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:58:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
References: <7558AA5978A54469829CAC62DB8F71C6@Laptop>
Message-ID: <4A65831A.2040004@chello.nl>

Ge,

Possibly collapsed brake lines, although if they are that old they 
should have failed the APK (MOT) years ago.
Best to replace these with Goodridge teflon/braided SS lines. No need to 
change these every so often anymore. They would cost about GBP40 on Ebay 
I think. I got a set for the Jensen Healey for GBP33 not to long ago.
It could be the servo as well but not that likely. They are fairly easy 
to take apart. You will most likely find brake fluid inside. Clean, 
derust, paint, use tough enamel paint on the inside where the leather 
seal is touching, treat the leather generously with leather oil for a 
few days if it is still intact, renew all rubber seals. Repair kits for 
the Girling remote servo's are also available through Ebay.
New Lockheed type servo's from Powertune are available at very little 
cost in various ratio's (1,6-3,0:1) through various suppliers on Ebay. 
Watch the prices, they can vary quite a bit.
I have used  mgservicesheathrow  in the past, they have one or more on 
offer on Ebay now: 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Servo-Kit-Alfa-Romeo-CHEAPEST-ON-EBAY-89_W0QQitemZ150275973182QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item22fd25603e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|293%3A1|294%3A50
(Do not be concerned about the Alfa bit, it would be the same unit for 
the Healey, 3.0:1 ratio)
I used the 1,9:1 ratio to improve the heavy clutch on my Landrover SIII. 
Works fine.
I have a nasty suspicion that most new "genuine" Lockheed servo's are 
from the same manufacturer as Powertune.

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Gaagten schreef:
> Hello,
> Yesterday I intended to go for a ride. Taking the car out of the garage I
> noticed a strange behavour of my brakes.
> The pedal felt very hard and not too much breaking was there. I just drove
> some blocks and nothing was chanced. Pushing the brake pedal several times
> resulted in blocking of the front brakes and the car could not be moved
> anymore).
> However after a little time the brakes released themselves again.
> My conclusion is that something is wrong with the brake servo. The servo is on
> the car as long as I have it (almost 15 years, about 20.000 km)
> So, if I have to replace the unit, which servo type should I take. I have
> probably a girling now. I know that the substitute for this is a Lockeed
> servo.
>
> Any other idea
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2250 - Release Date: 07/20/09 06:16:00

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Tue Jul 21 07:17:50 2009
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:17:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  Tire Black
Message-ID: <SNT104-DS795A2668F4DEBE98076E0E91A0@phx.gbl>

y'all need to just drive the car harder so you have to buy new tires more
often..  sideways sure takes the rubber off the rear tires quick ... Lol ..

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
"If you follow all the rules you only have half the fun!"

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 21 07:32:44 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 06:32:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Black
In-Reply-To: <AFDF46987DA94CC58B619E8B88E7DC8C@dell330>
References: <4A653E1D.5010607@comcast.net><ff59076c0907202334n53d1f5b1gbcda8ef60a65cfbb@mail.gmail.com>
	<B252B37483034ED18D1BDC7A214788BE@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<AFDF46987DA94CC58B619E8B88E7DC8C@dell330>
Message-ID: <4A65C37C.20301@comcast.net>

Excellent points.

The Black Magic Matte Finish I used says only 'contains surfactants' on the 
ingredients label (surfactant=='SURFace ACtive AgeNT'; i.e. soap).  I believe 
petroleum-based ingredients would have been listed.  The product is clear, not 
colored (may still discolor concrete though, didn't try it ;)  BTW, it's about 
$10/pint, not per quart as I wrote earlier.

The tires in question are on my 2008 Mustang (date code 4507).  They've faded 
some and were stained by brake dust washed off during washing.  Ordinarily I 
wouldn't care what the tires looked like, but they looked like sh*t on that 
brand new car.  The tires aren't very sticky, I'll replace them with performance 
summer tires when they wear out--I'm working on it ;)--but they have a wear 
factor of 400.

If the stuff damages the tire I won't lose too much sleep; I don't think 
anything it does to the surface rubber is going to affect the integrity of the tire.


bs



GUY DAY wrote:
> Couple of things from my viewpoint...
> 
> I'm going to throw a spanner in the works and suggest that any tyre 
> where the pigment has leached out is too decayed to be used safely.  For 
> a car not being driven it's fine, put whatever you want on it.
> 
> If you use a tyre wall cleaner that takes away an outer part of the tyre 
> material and stains concrete it won't be doing the tyre much good in the 
> long run so that would be a big no-no.
> 
> Any tyre cleaner containing oil based solvents will degrade the tyre 
> even though it may leave a pretty finish in the short term.
> 
> If I'm driving then I don't want to be thinking that the only four 
> things that keep my car going in the direction I want it to go is being 
> chemically degraded as I drive along.
> 
> Guy R Day


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From blackiebrantley at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 08:57:25 2009
From: blackiebrantley at gmail.com (Marion Brantley)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:57:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <d165c2750907210757y2448b304u9478f537b99677ec@mail.gmail.com>

un-subscribe Healeys

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Jul 21 09:10:36 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:10:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install
In-Reply-To: <2C2D74B4B8AF452786D6BA968D3E8573@lyon1>
Message-ID: <686D3A2D26B04835B0E5E987EE72C4C5@DANSTROM>

Doug:
I looked all over hell for the just correct original reflector rubber and
had to order the whole unit.  Did exactly what Rich recommended.  Think I
paid $25 per reflector just to get the $.25 rubber and trashed the rest of
the parts because they did not have the original Lucas writing on them, etc.
Be careful on the switch over.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Lyon
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 11:24 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Reflector Install

Mark,

I can't find the 'reflector grommets' listed separately in the Moss catalog,

or on thier website.
I can only find the whole reflector assembly (grommet, reflector, and trim 
ring), part number 544-700.
What is their part number for the rubber grommet only???

Does anyone else sell the rubber reflector grommets by themselves (as 
opposed to the whole assembly)???

Thanks in advance,

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 5:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] New Reflector Install


>
>
> Thanks,  Mark
>
> FWIW,   a nice surprise when I received my Moss order the other day.    I
> ordered the reflector
> grommets and got the entire assemble for the same price.  A thumbs up for
> Moss. 
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From buhler at memphisassociates.com  Tue Jul 21 09:42:15 2009
From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 11:42:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
Message-ID: <bddb49510d914cddae3ff75de594da88@memphisassociates.com>

I reported earlier about a driver side rear brake problem on my 67 3000.  When
backing up, the brake would tighten up.  Went away when driving forward. Had
not used the foot or emergency brake prior to this.  Removed the drum and
found that part of the brake shoe lining had fallen off the shoe and was
lodging in between the remaining shoe liner and drum.  Cleaned out the liner
pieces and works fine now. 

Ordered a set on new brake shoes and was
wondering if there are any suggestions about installing these on the reat
brakes.

Thanks,

Jon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 21 10:30:44 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:30:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <bddb49510d914cddae3ff75de594da88@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <1286222594.3688551248193844469.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

re: " any suggestions about installing these on the reat brakes." 

- observe current installation (take picture if necessary) 
- clean all internal parts thoroughly with brake cleaner 
- back out the adjusting screw--collapse the adjuster wedges--all the way 
- get new felts for the standoff pillars if necessary 
- put a drop of heavy oil or light grease on the end of the felts 
- install the springs--there's some evidence the original springs are different lengths, but replacements are the same. If yours are different lengths refer to the shop manual for correct placement 
- make sure the shoe ends are 'opposite'--i.e. there's a square hole on one end for the 'hook' on the slave cylinder and a solid end on the other--make sure the solid end butts against the backside of the cylinder (someone on the BCF had 'hole-to-hole' and it caused binding ) 
- install the new shoes with springs and make sure the lining surface is orthogonal to the backplate (not sure what the scientific method is to accomplish this--I use a carpenter's square and mark one eyeball) 
- make sure the shoes are centered; i.e. the lining edges are equidistant from the edge of the backplate all around 
- clean all internal parts thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe down the shoes with clean cloth 
- clean inside of drum and install 
- adjust with parking brake off (maybe even detach the cable--I don't and haven't had any issues) 


bs 




I reported earlier about a driver side rear brake problem on my 67 3000. When 
backing up, the brake would tighten up. Went away when driving forward. Had 
not used the foot or emergency brake prior to this. Removed the drum and 
found that part of the brake shoe lining had fallen off the shoe and was 
lodging in between the remaining shoe liner and drum. Cleaned out the liner 
pieces and works fine now. 

Ordered a set on new brake shoes and was 
wondering if there are any suggestions about installing these on the reat 
brakes. 

Thanks, 

Jon 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 21 10:37:36 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:37:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <1286222594.3688551248193844469.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <bddb49510d914cddae3ff75de594da88@memphisassociates.com>
	<1286222594.3688551248193844469.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005501ca0a21$8e558bd0$ab00a370$@net>

Only thing that I would add to this is to change the phrase "(take picture
if necessary)" to read "it is mandatory to take more pictures than you think
that you will need" One of the best  tools for any garage is a digital
camera.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 12:31 PM
To: buhler at memphisassociates.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem

re: " any suggestions about installing these on the reat brakes."

- observe current installation (take picture if necessary)
- clean all internal parts thoroughly with brake cleaner
- back out the adjusting screw--collapse the adjuster wedges--all the way
- get new felts for the standoff pillars if necessary
- put a drop of heavy oil or light grease on the end of the felts
- install the springs--there's some evidence the original springs are
different lengths, but replacements are the same. If yours are different
lengths refer to the shop manual for correct placement
- make sure the shoe ends are 'opposite'--i.e. there's a square hole on one
end for the 'hook' on the slave cylinder and a solid end on the other--make
sure the solid end butts against the backside of the cylinder (someone on
the BCF had 'hole-to-hole' and it caused binding )
- install the new shoes with springs and make sure the lining surface is
orthogonal to the backplate (not sure what the scientific method is to
accomplish this--I use a carpenter's square and mark one eyeball)
- make sure the shoes are centered; i.e. the lining edges are equidistant
from the edge of the backplate all around
- clean all internal parts thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe down the
shoes with clean cloth
- clean inside of drum and install
- adjust with parking brake off (maybe even detach the cable--I don't and
haven't had any issues)


bs




I reported earlier about a driver side rear brake problem on my 67 3000.
When
backing up, the brake would tighten up. Went away when driving forward. Had
not used the foot or emergency brake prior to this. Removed the drum and
found that part of the brake shoe lining had fallen off the shoe and was
lodging in between the remaining shoe liner and drum. Cleaned out the liner
pieces and works fine now.

Ordered a set on new brake shoes and was
wondering if there are any suggestions about installing these on the reat
brakes.

Thanks,

Jon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From gaagten at hetnet.nl  Tue Jul 21 12:19:42 2009
From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:19:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
Message-ID: <82F72F97333A470ABD06FB24851F272C@Laptop>

Dear list,
Thanks for all the good ideas about my problem. Most of the people went for
the solution of changing the flexible break lines.
I ordered these items today, I will keep you informed.
Second option was the servo unit. Also a test was recommended which I did,
putting my foot on the brake pedal and start the engine.
I did not notice any change in the feeling of the pedal? (It should go down
for an inch).

Regards,
Ge Aagten
BJ8 1964
THe Netherlands

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 21 12:39:35 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 11:39:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
In-Reply-To: <82F72F97333A470ABD06FB24851F272C@Laptop>
References: <82F72F97333A470ABD06FB24851F272C@Laptop>
Message-ID: <E66672BD-4B0F-4FD2-B4C6-6B1B5DFEB772@sbcglobal.net>

The brake hoses probably will not fix your problem. If the hoses were  
the problem then you would only have one front sticking on or both  
rear. It is not very likley that all three rubber hoses will have the  
same problem at the same time.  If all the wheels are locking up and  
the pedal is hard there are only two things that can cause this.  
Either the master cylinder has no free play or the servo is sticking on.

If the pedal did not move when you started the engine with your foot  
on the pedal then the problem is in the servo.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 21, 2009, at 11:19 AM, Gaagten wrote:

> Dear list,
> Thanks for all the good ideas about my problem. Most of the people  
> went for
> the solution of changing the flexible break lines.
> I ordered these items today, I will keep you informed.
> Second option was the servo unit. Also a test was recommended which  
> I did,
> putting my foot on the brake pedal and start the engine.
> I did not notice any change in the feeling of the pedal? (It should  
> go down
> for an inch).
>
> Regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8 1964
> THe Netherlands
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Tue Jul 21 13:06:34 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:06:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo
References: <82F72F97333A470ABD06FB24851F272C@Laptop>
Message-ID: <897DC7E0E43F47D1B1A88EF8038F78F6@dell330>

The correct way to do this brake servo test is to first evacuate the vacuum 
chamber by pressing on the pedal 6 or 7 times, without the engine running. 
You should hear a slight hissing noise when you press the pedal as the 
chamber evacuates.  Keep pressing until there is no more hissing.  Finish 
the last press with a longer (5 or 6 seconds) hard press to see if the pedal 
goes down.  It shouldn't, it should remain solid.  Whilst your foot is still 
on the pedal start the engine and as the vacuum builds up the pedal should 
go down slightly underfoot.  This should happen more or less straight away 
and you may even feel the pedal moving before the engine actually fires up.
After the engine has started and the pedal has gone down slightly, lift your 
foot off the pedal for 3 or 4 seconds and the next time you press it it 
should be at its normal braking level.  Press the pedal hard enough to bend 
the steering wheel ( ! ! ) and the pedal should sink to its maximum braking 
position and stay there.  Keep pressed for 8 to 10 seconds, your foot / 
pedal should not sink any further.

If all of those conditions are met the servo has passed the UK DOT annual 
test.

Guy R Day

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gaagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake servo


 Dear list,
 Thanks for all the good ideas about my problem. Most of the people went for
 the solution of changing the flexible break lines.
 I ordered these items today, I will keep you informed.
 Second option was the servo unit. Also a test was recommended which I did,
 putting my foot on the brake pedal and start the engine.
 I did not notice any change in the feeling of the pedal? (It should go down
 for an inch).

 Regards,
 Ge Aagten
 BJ8 1964
 THe Netherlands

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 21 13:09:28 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 15:09:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
References: <bddb49510d914cddae3ff75de594da88@memphisassociates.com><1286222594.3688551248193844469.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<005501ca0a21$8e558bd0$ab00a370$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP752BA54C3FDCE8FB7F2EFDC31A0@phx.gbl>

"John Sims" wrote: Only thing that I would add to this is to change the 
phrase "(take picture if necessary)" to read "it is mandatory to take more 
pictures than you think
that you will need" One of the best  tools for any garage is a digital 
camera.

I agree, but I would add the caution that you should not assume that what 
ever assembly you are working on was correctly assembled by those who came 
before you.  When working as a mechanic, I used to constantly find things 
assembled incorrectly, sometimes with parts missing.  Always check the 
workshop manual and preferably the parts list so you can see from the 
exploded drawings the correct assembly.

cheers,

Mirek
60 BT7

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 21 14:23:46 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:23:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cooling problem
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>

Actually it is a heating problem.  A few years ago I was having cooling
problems and I consulted Norm Nock's book for advice.  I ended up removing the
rad and heater core and having them cleaned at a rad shop. I back-flushed the
engine block, just with the garden hose.  I also fitted an original type
sleeve thermostat from British Car Specialists.  I have recently had the temp
gauge out and checked its accuracy with a lab thermometer and found it to be
very accurate.  After these changes the car did not overheat, but the
temperature was always a bit sporadic, sometimes staying at around 160 and
other times closer to 180.  The car has always suffered from "hill boil" (as
Michael Salter told me), the temperature needle swinging up to 212 whenever I
am stopped, but never boiling over. I put this down to some irregular water
circulation around the temp sensor when at idle.  I am not worried about that
- it has been doing it for 35 years.

However, the irregular running temp is getting worse.  Yesterday, driving on a
cool morning, the temp settled in at around 170, but inexplicably dropped to
around 120, where it stayed for the rest of the 2 hour trip.  I can only think
the thermostat is sticking open, but why would it function intermittently?
Also, the thermostat is only  a few years old and I do not drive the car
regularly.  I plan to pull the thermostat and test it, but thought I would
plumb the depth of knowledge on the list first.  I have no other explanation.
Suggestions?

Mirek
60 BT7

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 21 15:08:47 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 23:08:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] cooling problem
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A662E5F.9000307@chello.nl>

Scale build up in the thermostat or lose bits of scale partially 
blokking it or part of the radiator now and again?
Are you using tap water in stead of coolant? Always use coolant (or an 
appropriate mixture) to prevent scale build up.
Thermostats do go wrong once in a while, even brand new ones. Check it 
first.
The radiator may be the problem as that was "cleaned". The question is 
how good a job did the rad shop. My guestimate is not to good and 
perhaps loose bits of scale are circulating. It is neigh impossible to 
clean a radiator without partial dismanteling and cleaning out every 
single tube. It is better to fit a new core with a higher cooling 
capacity. You can never have enough cooling capacity as long as you use 
the proper thermostat (bar polar expeditions).
It could also be that scale has formed in the cilinderhead and is 
partially blocking the water ways. It hardly ever presents to much 
problems in the block.
Back flushing with a water hose will not help much. You at least  have 
to use caustic soda at high temperatures. Better to have the head 
cleaned ultrasonicly after you have chisseled away as much scale as you 
can get at.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Mirek Sharp schreef:
> - it has been doing it for 35 years.
>
> However, the irregular running temp is getting worse.  Yesterday, driving on a
> cool morning, the temp settled in at around 170, but inexplicably dropped to
> around 120, where it stayed for the rest of the 2 hour trip.  I can only think
> the thermostat is sticking open, but why would it function intermittently?
> Also, the thermostat is only  a few years old and I do not drive the car
> regularly.  I plan to pull the thermostat and test it, but thought I would
> plumb the depth of knowledge on the list first.  I have no other explanation.
> Suggestions?

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 16:18:39 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 06:18:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] cooling problem
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907211518u421736dfu5f6d7e81409b6ff0@mail.gmail.com>

Mirek -

The only disadvantage with the sleeve thermostat is there is very
little clearance between the sleeve and the housing in which it sits.
I would take out the thermostat and very thouroughly clean the housing
with a wire brush - I suspect the sleeve is getting caught up from
time to time when it tries to open or close.

Alan

On 7/22/09, Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Actually it is a heating problem.  A few years ago I was having cooling
> problems and I consulted Norm Nock's book for advice.  I ended up removing
> the
> rad and heater core and having them cleaned at a rad shop. I back-flushed
> the
> engine block, just with the garden hose.  I also fitted an original type
> sleeve thermostat from British Car Specialists.  I have recently had the
> temp
> gauge out and checked its accuracy with a lab thermometer and found it to be
> very accurate.  After these changes the car did not overheat, but the
> temperature was always a bit sporadic, sometimes staying at around 160 and
> other times closer to 180.  The car has always suffered from "hill boil" (as
> Michael Salter told me), the temperature needle swinging up to 212 whenever
> I
> am stopped, but never boiling over. I put this down to some irregular water
> circulation around the temp sensor when at idle.  I am not worried about
> that
> - it has been doing it for 35 years.
>
> However, the irregular running temp is getting worse.  Yesterday, driving on
> a
> cool morning, the temp settled in at around 170, but inexplicably dropped to
> around 120, where it stayed for the rest of the 2 hour trip.  I can only
> think
> the thermostat is sticking open, but why would it function intermittently?
> Also, the thermostat is only  a few years old and I do not drive the car
> regularly.  I plan to pull the thermostat and test it, but thought I would
> plumb the depth of knowledge on the list first.  I have no other
> explanation.
> Suggestions?
>
> Mirek
> 60 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Jul 21 16:42:18 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:42:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brake Problem
In-Reply-To: <005501ca0a21$8e558bd0$ab00a370$@net>
References: <bddb49510d914cddae3ff75de594da88@memphisassociates.com><1286222594.3688551248193844469.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<005501ca0a21$8e558bd0$ab00a370$@net>
Message-ID: <5B94A6B41F304208BC23E25BAA312791@GregPC>

Although judging from the comments on where you were when Neal Armstrong 
walked on the moon I am younger than most of you...but I do remember back in 
the day before we had digital cameras it worked pretty well to take the 
drums off both sides, dissassemble one side at a time, and use the other for 
reference.

All good tips though,

Greg Lemon

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Tue Jul 21 18:13:04 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:13:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor
Message-ID: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>

I received my new air compressor today.  Ingersoll Rand Electric
Stationary Air Compressor  5 HP, 18.1 CFM @ 90 PSI, 230 Volt, Model#
SS5L5 60 lb. tank.

Directions say to bolt to the floor. I have a brand new garage floor
with brand new professional epoxy paint job. I will drill holes in the
floor if I must, but is there no other alternative? This is the first
compressor I have ever had - always done it the hard way - you know
wire brush in a drill, and turn those spanners, so this is all new
territory for me.

Is it an absolute no-no to put heavy duty hard rubber casters WITH
LOCKS on the feet of the compressor? I would then safety strap the
tank to the wall since these things do appear to be a little top heavy.

Your thoughts and admonishments please.

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 21 18:12:24 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:12:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] cooling problem
References: <BLU0-SMTP377700D032F69034E47DE1C31A0@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0907211518u421736dfu5f6d7e81409b6ff0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP13B3AB8511B88CA695F1F9C31B0@phx.gbl>

Good thought Alan,  I wondered about that as when I installed it I had to 
file a few thou off the rough casting inside the thermostat housing.  With 
expansion from the heat, it may just be doing as you say.  If so, there 
should be evidence on the thermostat body.

Also, responding to Kees, I only ever use a 50/50 mixture of distilled water 
and coolant.

Mirek

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Mirek Sharp" <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>; "Healey List" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cooling problem


> Mirek -
>
> The only disadvantage with the sleeve thermostat is there is very
> little clearance between the sleeve and the housing in which it sits.
> I would take out the thermostat and very thouroughly clean the housing
> with a wire brush - I suspect the sleeve is getting caught up from
> time to time when it tries to open or close.
>
> Alan
>
> On 7/22/09, Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Actually it is a heating problem.  A few years ago I was having cooling
>> problems and I consulted Norm Nock's book for advice.  I ended up 
>> removing
>> the
>> rad and heater core and having them cleaned at a rad shop. I back-flushed
>> the
>> engine block, just with the garden hose.  I also fitted an original type
>> sleeve thermostat from British Car Specialists.  I have recently had the
>> temp
>> gauge out and checked its accuracy with a lab thermometer and found it to 
>> be
>> very accurate.  After these changes the car did not overheat, but the
>> temperature was always a bit sporadic, sometimes staying at around 160 
>> and
>> other times closer to 180.  The car has always suffered from "hill boil" 
>> (as
>> Michael Salter told me), the temperature needle swinging up to 212 
>> whenever
>> I
>> am stopped, but never boiling over. I put this down to some irregular 
>> water
>> circulation around the temp sensor when at idle.  I am not worried about
>> that
>> - it has been doing it for 35 years.
>>
>> However, the irregular running temp is getting worse.  Yesterday, driving 
>> on
>> a
>> cool morning, the temp settled in at around 170, but inexplicably dropped 
>> to
>> around 120, where it stayed for the rest of the 2 hour trip.  I can only
>> think
>> the thermostat is sticking open, but why would it function 
>> intermittently?
>> Also, the thermostat is only  a few years old and I do not drive the car
>> regularly.  I plan to pull the thermostat and test it, but thought I 
>> would
>> plumb the depth of knowledge on the list first.  I have no other
>> explanation.
>> Suggestions?
>>
>> Mirek
>> 60 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 21 19:57:32 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:57:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor
References: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP76ED692959632306CDAC32C31B0@phx.gbl>

Hi Lin,

I have my compressor bolted to a couple of  4x4s just sitting on the floor 
and it seems quite happy.  It is a large one with a vertical tank - can't 
recall the capacity off hand.

Mirek

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 8:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor


>I received my new air compressor today.  Ingersoll Rand Electric
> Stationary Air Compressor  5 HP, 18.1 CFM @ 90 PSI, 230 Volt, Model#
> SS5L5 60 lb. tank.
>
> Directions say to bolt to the floor. I have a brand new garage floor
> with brand new professional epoxy paint job. I will drill holes in the
> floor if I must, but is there no other alternative? This is the first
> compressor I have ever had - always done it the hard way - you know
> wire brush in a drill, and turn those spanners, so this is all new
> territory for me.
>
> Is it an absolute no-no to put heavy duty hard rubber casters WITH
> LOCKS on the feet of the compressor? I would then safety strap the
> tank to the wall since these things do appear to be a little top heavy.
>
> Your thoughts and admonishments please.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Jul 21 20:11:06 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:11:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP76ED692959632306CDAC32C31B0@phx.gbl>
References: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP76ED692959632306CDAC32C31B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3696232AAC5F4F778BED75CEFB8F0720@GregPC>

Although I don't have experience with the large compressor you are talking 
about, I assume in this day and age the "bolt to the floor" instructions may 
be based upon liability concerns.

"The big compressor squished me (or my wife or my nice expensive Healey) and 
the instructions didn't tell me to secure it right well...waah waah"

I notice tall bookcases often come with a securing strap you are supposed to 
attach to the wall for similar anti-squish/liability reasons.

I would think that the two by four base or a good sturdy strap on mouted 
securely to a good sturdy wall would do the trick--use some good common 
engineering sense and all should be good.

Welcome to the world of air tools, I was in the same electric and hand tool 
world too for many many years, the thing I find the most useful is the most 
simple, the little air blaster attachment, use it all the time to blow off 
dust and debris, dry off water, blow out tubes and passageways.

Greg

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 20:25:08 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:25:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor
In-Reply-To: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
References: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907211925r280862d9p2f01adc22bc94c4f@mail.gmail.com>

Lin -

I've had my fair share of big and small compressors over the years.  As long
as they have rubber feet on them, they really don't travel because the tanks
are pretty heavy.  the bigger they get, the less they travel.  I would not
worry about it - it's the little ones that bounce all over the place.   If
anything just put the thing in the corner in your shop and it won't travel
at all.

If you put lockable rubber casters and strap it to the wall, it won't go
anywhere.  I'd get softer rubber casters, or even feet, rather than hard
rubber.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 8:13 AM, Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com> wrote:

> I received my new air compressor today.  Ingersoll Rand Electric
> Stationary Air Compressor   5 HP, 18.1 CFM @ 90 PSI, 230 Volt, Model#
> SS5L5 60 lb. tank.
>
> Directions say to bolt to the floor. I have a brand new garage floor
> with brand new professional epoxy paint job. I will drill holes in the
> floor if I must, but is there no other alternative? This is the first
> compressor I have ever had - always done it the hard way - you know
> wire brush in a drill, and turn those spanners, so this is all new
> territory for me.
>
> Is it an absolute no-no to put heavy duty hard rubber casters WITH
> LOCKS on the feet of the compressor? I would then safety strap the
> tank to the wall since these things do appear to be a little top heavy.
>
> Your thoughts and admonishments please.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Tue Jul 21 22:01:55 2009
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] seat belt attachment question
Message-ID: <4A668F33.8080406@cox.net>

Thanks everyone who responded. I learned a few things and know where to 
buy the parts. The list comes through, as usual.

Cheers,
John

From nlaredbt7 at tbc.net  Tue Jul 21 22:22:48 2009
From: nlaredbt7 at tbc.net (Neil Anderson)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 23:22:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey race video
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com><751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>
	<EMEW-k7DDNS0c076ad5933a07fc5627d66b6c552d77-7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <26E341F4D94649A38D1280FAA318EE2A@owner7ccec1fe9>

Here is some video coverage of the 1 hour enduro, The John Gott Memorial 
Race at Silverstone on the 11th.  The in-car footage was taken by #19, which 
finished 11th in the race.  The car was race prepared by my buddy Pete 
Farmer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPqN4ilRho0&feature=channel_page

It must have been a great site to see 30 Healeys, which included 100's, a 
100S, 100-6s, 3000s, DD 300, and a Silverstone, all blasting around that 
historic track in honor of the 50th anniversery of the 3000 series cars.

Here are some additional still shots from the weekend's races.  Click on 
"Healey 50th" and "Healey 50th Prizegiving" for all the shots.  Included in 
the end of race prizegiving shots are John Chatham, Peter Riley, Ann Wisdom 
Riley, and 1st and 2d place race finishers Jeremy Welch and Anders Schildt.

CRUCIAL IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY

Enjoy,

Neil Anderson
Midwest AHC

From nlaredbt7 at tbc.net  Tue Jul 21 22:27:14 2009
From: nlaredbt7 at tbc.net (Neil Anderson)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 23:27:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Link for still photos
Message-ID: <61C19F0934904015BB4196AEDD2BA94F@owner7ccec1fe9>

It doesn't look like the link to the Silverstone race still shots made it
through.  Here it is:

https://www.theimagefile.com/web/kelvincrucialimage/client_events.html

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 22:34:12 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:34:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey race video
In-Reply-To: <26E341F4D94649A38D1280FAA318EE2A@owner7ccec1fe9>
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
	<751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>
	<EMEW-k7DDNS0c076ad5933a07fc5627d66b6c552d77-7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
	<26E341F4D94649A38D1280FAA318EE2A@owner7ccec1fe9>
Message-ID: <173126440907212134lc4ef9e6m92a7b89774d4015e@mail.gmail.com>

I was there. It was great to see a 100s and a Healey Silverstone racing a
brace of 100-4s, 100-6s and 3000s around the historic track. I shot some bad
phone video, still trying to fix it up enough to post.cheers,
Ira Erbs
Portland, Oregon
59 BT7owned 35 years.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 9:22 PM, Neil Anderson <nlaredbt7 at tbc.net> wrote:

> Here is some video coverage of the 1 hour enduro, The John Gott Memorial
> Race at Silverstone on the 11th.  The in-car footage was taken by #19, which
> finished 11th in the race.  The car was race prepared by my buddy Pete
> Farmer.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPqN4ilRho0&feature=channel_page
>
> It must have been a great site to see 30 Healeys, which included 100's, a
> 100S, 100-6s, 3000s, DD 300, and a Silverstone, all blasting around that
> historic track in honor of the 50th anniversery of the 3000 series cars.
>
> Here are some additional still shots from the weekend's races.  Click on
> "Healey 50th" and "Healey 50th Prizegiving" for all the shots.  Included in
> the end of race prizegiving shots are John Chatham, Peter Riley, Ann Wisdom
> Riley, and 1st and 2d place race finishers Jeremy Welch and Anders Schildt.
>
> CRUCIAL IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Neil Anderson
> Midwest AHC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 23:23:15 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:23:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Help from CA, NZ and AUS peers
Message-ID: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>

Hey folks,

This question is specifically for my peers in the Canada, Australia
and New Zealand areas. I've been compiling a list of interesting cars
owned by my family over the years and I'm interested in trying to
track down these cars to see what has happened to them. Interestingly
enough, we seem to remember our cars as importantly as our genealogy.

What I really want to know is how well these three countries have
tracked registrations and vehicle ownership over the years and how
willing they are to give that sort of information out to requestors.
Any tips and/or leads on who to contact are greatly appreciated. My
family has had Gullwings in NZ, Ferraris in AUS, Minis in CAN, and a
plethora of other british cars (E-types, Austin Healeys and the like).

Consider this, if you will, an automotive family tree. I understand
that the likelihood of me learning anything usefull is near to nil,
but it's better to try and fail, than not try at all.

Jody

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 23:34:06 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:34:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Help from CA, NZ and AUS peers
In-Reply-To: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907212234s46dc2c04x36faffd022dec35c@mail.gmail.com>

Jody -

I know for certain that NZ, through Motocheck(?) still keeps track of
all historical registrations.  I have the printout for all owners
since 1953 for my Atlantic to prove it.  I think you can request
online, if not maybe a friendly car dealer will do it for you.

Alan




On 7/22/09, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> This question is specifically for my peers in the Canada, Australia
> and New Zealand areas. I've been compiling a list of interesting cars
> owned by my family over the years and I'm interested in trying to
> track down these cars to see what has happened to them. Interestingly
> enough, we seem to remember our cars as importantly as our genealogy.
>
> What I really want to know is how well these three countries have
> tracked registrations and vehicle ownership over the years and how
> willing they are to give that sort of information out to requestors.
> Any tips and/or leads on who to contact are greatly appreciated. My
> family has had Gullwings in NZ, Ferraris in AUS, Minis in CAN, and a
> plethora of other british cars (E-types, Austin Healeys and the like).
>
> Consider this, if you will, an automotive family tree. I understand
> that the likelihood of me learning anything usefull is near to nil,
> but it's better to try and fail, than not try at all.
>
> Jody
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 23:36:25 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:36:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Help from CA, NZ and AUS peers
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907212234s46dc2c04x36faffd022dec35c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0907212234s46dc2c04x36faffd022dec35c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471534970907212236t43f501eelbd9c8ab1dccb15be@mail.gmail.com>

Alan,

Do you know if they allow searches by owner, rather than VIN? I don't
have the VIN number for all of the vehicles.

Jody

On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> Jody -
>
> I know for certain that NZ, through Motocheck(?) still keeps track of
> all historical registrations.  I have the printout for all owners
> since 1953 for my Atlantic to prove it.  I think you can request
> online, if not maybe a friendly car dealer will do it for you.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
> On 7/22/09, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hey folks,
>>
>> This question is specifically for my peers in the Canada, Australia
>> and New Zealand areas. I've been compiling a list of interesting cars
>> owned by my family over the years and I'm interested in trying to
>> track down these cars to see what has happened to them. Interestingly
>> enough, we seem to remember our cars as importantly as our genealogy.
>>
>> What I really want to know is how well these three countries have
>> tracked registrations and vehicle ownership over the years and how
>> willing they are to give that sort of information out to requestors.
>> Any tips and/or leads on who to contact are greatly appreciated. My
>> family has had Gullwings in NZ, Ferraris in AUS, Minis in CAN, and a
>> plethora of other british cars (E-types, Austin Healeys and the like).
>>
>> Consider this, if you will, an automotive family tree. I understand
>> that the likelihood of me learning anything usefull is near to nil,
>> but it's better to try and fail, than not try at all.
>>
>> Jody
>>
>> --
>> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
>> 1953 Studebaker Champion
>> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
>> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
>> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
>> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
>> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on
ebay!
>>
>> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
>> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
>> disinclination to do so."
>> --Douglas Adams
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 06:23:01 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:23:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Help from CA, NZ and AUS peers
In-Reply-To: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W150EEF861F58897BE93ECFB51B0@phx.gbl>

Jody
In Canada, motor vehicle registrations are handled by the province in which
the car is owned. Here in Nova Scotia it's difficult to get current
information, unless you know a friendly law enforcement officer who will run a
check for you. Older records (I don't really know what the cutoff date is but
at least as far back as the sixties and earlier) are housed in the Provincial
archives and anyone can do research there. If you had the date and the owner's
name it would be relatively easy, but time consuming. If the records haven't
been computerized, and they weren't the last I heard, the search would involve
going through reels (and reels) of microfilm.
I don't know if you could get a friendly archivist to do this for you -
probably not.
I have a friend who used to do this when he was looking for old motorcycles.
He would start with a list of motorcycle club members and their bikes from a
certain date, pick the ones he was interested in and start following the
microfilm trail of registrations forward to as recent as he could get. He'd
then phone the most recent owner and see if he still owned the bike, or if he
knew who did. He did find several bikes that way.
Good luck with your search
Rick Swain



_________________________________________________________________
Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 06:26:04 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:26:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Air Compressor
In-Reply-To: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
References: <547EA5CB-175E-4507-A41C-A7FB59536229@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4A67055C.4090005@comcast.net>

Mine sits on a 2 x 4 frame and has a chain around it attached to the 
wall studs.

Linwood H Rose wrote:
> I received my new air compressor today.  Ingersoll Rand Electric
> Stationary Air Compressor  5 HP, 18.1 CFM @ 90 PSI, 230 Volt, Model#
> SS5L5 60 lb. tank.
>
> Directions say to bolt to the floor. I have a brand new garage floor
> with brand new professional epoxy paint job. I will drill holes in the
> floor if I must, but is there no other alternative? This is the first
> compressor I have ever had - always done it the hard way - you know
> wire brush in a drill, and turn those spanners, so this is all new
> territory for me.
>
> Is it an absolute no-no to put heavy duty hard rubber casters WITH
> LOCKS on the feet of the compressor? I would then safety strap the
> tank to the wall since these things do appear to be a little top heavy.
>
> Your thoughts and admonishments please.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 09:34:27 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 08:34:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Help from CA, NZ and AUS peers
In-Reply-To: <471534970907212223x3bf05a7ei24af9db3b4c79ba9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <705498.55829.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jody, that is one giant task you have picked up.  But as you say "it's better
to try and fail, than not try at all". 
 
In addition to the "official" government base for tracking registrations and
vehicle ownerships, you may wish to try both vintage insurance companies and
enthusiasts vehicle registries. 
 
For example, to get a list of the insurance companies, try googling [ "vintage
car insurance" Canada ] and change the country/province/state name as you go. 
This will likely give you both companies and brokers in each country.  Your
task is going to be tedious due to privacy laws but if you approach it
carefully, you may convince the respective bodies to pass on your request to
the current owner[s].  I know, it is all a very long shot.
 
Good luck with your quest for a Automotive Family Tree  Jody.  Press On, Keep
Smiling and remember, Murphy Lives.  It will be very interesting to see how
you make out.
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling,  Murphy Lives

--- On Wed, 7/22/09, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr at gmail.com> wrote: << Hey folks, This
question is specifically for my peers in the Canada, Australia and New Zealand
areas. I've been compiling a list of interesting cars owned by my family over
the years and I'm interested in trying to track down these cars to see what
has happened to them. Interestingly enough, we seem to remember our cars as
importantly as our genealogy.

What I really want to know is how well these three countries have tracked
registrations and vehicle ownership over the years and how willing they are to
give that sort of information out to requestors. Any tips and/or leads on who
to contact are greatly appreciated. My family has had Gullwings in NZ,
Ferraris in AUS, Minis in CAN, and a plethora of other british cars (E-types,
Austin Healeys and the like).

Consider this, if you will, an automotive family tree. I understand that the
likelihood of me learning anything usefull is near to nil, but it's better to
try and fail, than not try at all. >>
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 11:00:16 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:00:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HealeysReturnToBonneville
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS65E8C17A96193EF8795A2B31B0@phx.gbl>

Only eight weeks before Healeys return again to Bonneville.  I have received
notes from about 20 folks who are planning to converge on the Salt Flats for
the World of Speed, September 16th to 19th.  There will also be a car show
(including the two Record Cars) and Bar-B-Q event at Miller Motorsports Park
on Saturday, September 12, just west of Salt Lake City.  If you want to go and
need further information, contact me at gbrierton at hotmail.com .  I will be
driving my BJ-8, leaving North Carolina September 6th, using mostly US-50 to
Salt Lake City on the 11th, then Wenover on the 14th.
See you there?
Gary Brierton
AHCA VP-Club Support
'67 BJ-8 aka The Silver Bullet

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Jul 22 13:03:43 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:03:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glamour Healey Picture
Message-ID: <010b01ca0aff$22d96050$688c20f0$@com>

Famed architectural photographer, Julius Shulman, who died recently at 98
took this great picture of a pre-Disneyland gas station in Anaheim, CA near
brand-new Disneyland.

http://www.deepglamour.net/deep_glamour/2009/07/julius-shulman-master-of-arc
hitectural-glamour.html

Interestingly in the interview quoted he refers to the car, a 100-4, as an
Alfa Romeo!

 

The driver does indeed look glamorous with her white gloves!

 

(Apologies - TinyURL no longer works as of Flash 10)

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 13:46:35 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:46:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Glamour Healey Picture
In-Reply-To: <010b01ca0aff$22d96050$688c20f0$@com>
References: <010b01ca0aff$22d96050$688c20f0$@com>
Message-ID: <331469.24832.qm@web110307.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

TinyURL does work, but it has changed; you have to have it access the
clipboard{if you don't it will not be a link}; also you can customize it and
name the link anything you want--love that.
You did not 'link' the entire URL
anyway.
here is the 'tiny' link customized:   http://tinyurl.com/healeyart
go
figure ?????
for instance, here is the earlier slideshow customized:
http://tinyurl.com/healeyraces
Richard



________________________________
From: Steve Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent:
Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:03:43 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Glamour Healey Picture
Famed architectural photographer, Julius Shulman, who died recently at 98
took
this great picture of a pre-Disneyland gas station in Anaheim, CA near
brand-new Disneyland.
http://www.deepglamour.net/deep_glamour/2009/07/julius-shulman-master-of-arc
hitectural-glamour.html

Interestingly in the interview quoted he refers to
the car, a 100-4, as an
Alfa Romeo!



The driver does indeed look glamorous
with her white gloves!



(Apologies - TinyURL no longer works as of Flash 10)
--



Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From f9cougar at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 14:08:20 2009
From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Gearbox and O/D for Sale
Message-ID: <676253.69261.qm@web34801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers - Gearbox is a core - 1st and 2nd in bad shape. $350 plus shipping
for it. O/D is is the 28% type, and it is awesome. Has all the Dennis Welch
soup-up parts in it. Engages and disengages smartly and reliably. About 10,000
miles on it since rebuild. It's also  $350 plus shipping. Take both for $650;
then I won't have to detach them. - JRC 

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 14:12:28 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:12:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville
In-Reply-To: <c0d7ebc50907221222k601497dcgdb078726268074f8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c0d7ebc50907221222k601497dcgdb078726268074f8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS2B818FA28C50C144B903BB31B0@phx.gbl>

Hi Jim,
This is the annual "World of Speed"  (use to be Speed Week) where everybody
with all sorts of cars comes to make record runs.  That definitely runs from
9/16 through 9/19 (see www.saltflats.com ).  What we are all excited about is
the running of the two replica Healeys from Australia (the 1954 Streamliner
and the endurance record  breaker), put together by Steve Pike (and others).
That whole team will be there to start runs on Wednesday 9/16.  Roy
Jackson-Moore, Carroll Shelby, John Chatham and many others are expected to be
there.  Also, on the preceding Saturday, the cars will be at Miller
Motorsports Park and a carshow/Bar-B-Q will be held (see
www.millermotorsportspark.com ) hosted by the Bonneville AHCA.  There are
small fees for all events.
All the info is on www.healeysreturntobonneville.com
You can always contact me for more details.
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Cox" <tappiokie at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:22 PM
To: <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
Subject: Bonneville

> Hi Gary - I am interested in going also. Is this strictly a Healey
> speed run or are other cars going to be there also? Are the dates firm
> 9/16-9/19? The newsletter seems to leave this open a bit. Thanks, Jim
> Cox National Member, AHCA

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Wed Jul 22 14:46:53 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:46:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Sender and Positive Ground
Message-ID: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I have purchased a fuel tank sender from NOS Locators and before I install
it, I thought I would ask if I will have any problems in wiring, since my
BJ8 is positive ground?

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 22 15:16:17 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 23:16:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Sender and Positive Ground
In-Reply-To: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <4A6781A1.8040504@chello.nl>

Should not be any problem. It is only a resistor in line with the gauge.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Michael Hartfield schreef:
> I have purchased a fuel tank sender from NOS Locators and before I install
> it, I thought I would ask if I will have any problems in wiring, since my
> BJ8 is positive ground?
> _______________________________________________

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 22 15:19:17 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 17:19:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Sender and Positive Ground
In-Reply-To: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <00a401ca0b12$128eb660$37ac2320$@net>

Problem that you are sure to have is that in time the wire clamp will wear a
hole in the float as the one you will be getting has the plastic float. I
would either swap it out from the one from the Ford dealer or be sure to
bend the tip of the wire up a little so that it does not wear a hole in the
float as others have suggested. As far as positive ground, that is what my
car has and it works fine.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Hartfield
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 4:47 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Sender and Positive Ground

I have purchased a fuel tank sender from NOS Locators and before I install
it, I thought I would ask if I will have any problems in wiring, since my
BJ8 is positive ground?
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Jul 22 15:53:57 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 14:53:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville
In-Reply-To: <BLU107-DS2B818FA28C50C144B903BB31B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090722175357.P485L.2232133.root@mp06>

Gary,

Also Steve Pike sent a note yesterday that although the cars were to come here to the Bay Area and up to Laguna Seca, that will not happen.  Continued work caused delays such that the cars will come to the Seattle Port.  So if folks were planning to come to Laguna Seca and the AHCUSA BBQ at "On the Road Again" it has been cancelled.

Steve said he will be at the Historics though.

See you in Utah as  Brian Bliven and I will camp at the bend in the road.

Cheers!

Tracy Drummond 
President AHCUSA

---- gary brierton <gbrierton at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Hi Jim,
> This is the annual "World of Speed"  (use to be Speed Week) where everybody
> with all sorts of cars comes to make record runs.  That definitely runs from
> 9/16 through 9/19 (see www.saltflats.com ).  What we are all excited about is
> the running of the two replica Healeys from Australia (the 1954 Streamliner
> and the endurance record  breaker), put together by Steve Pike (and others).
> That whole team will be there to start runs on Wednesday 9/16.  Roy
> Jackson-Moore, Carroll Shelby, John Chatham and many others are expected to be
> there.  Also, on the preceding Saturday, the cars will be at Miller
> Motorsports Park and a carshow/Bar-B-Q will be held (see
> www.millermotorsportspark.com ) hosted by the Bonneville AHCA.  There are
> small fees for all events.
> All the info is on www.healeysreturntobonneville.com
> You can always contact me for more details.
> GaryB
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jim Cox" <tappiokie at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:22 PM
> To: <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Bonneville
> 
> > Hi Gary - I am interested in going also. Is this strictly a Healey
> > speed run or are other cars going to be there also? Are the dates firm
> > 9/16-9/19? The newsletter seems to leave this open a bit. Thanks, Jim
> > Cox National Member, AHCA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 16:04:59 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:04:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem
Message-ID: <BAY112-W139F389034035874AC5229B51B0@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for your suggestions about my overdrive problem. As suspected
it turned out that the oil pump cam had been installed backwards. I was able
to use a friend's shop which has a hoist (good kind of friend to have) and got
everything ready for taking out the gearbox on Saturday. My friend who rebuilt
the box came down to help on Sunday and in a bit over 3 hours we had the box
out, split, cam replaced correctly (he was embarrassed that he had made that
mistake) reassembled and back in the car. Thank you Mr. Finespanner and your
"wire trick."
Overdrive is now working as it should. I must mention that when I adjusted the
setting lever to align with the 3/16" hole in the case the overdrive wouldn't
work. I had to move it a little farther which is where it had been when the
car was taken apart.
Anyway, finally, after my almost 2 year rebuild which entailed a new Kilmartin
frame, most of the underlying sheet metal except for most of the front
bulkhead and inner front fenders, as well as new front and rear fenders and
trunk lid, my car is back on the road, fully functional and looking gorgeous.
I only have about 100 miles on the car but it is working great and feels great
- no shakes and rattles or squeaks. It feels like a new (if somewhat noisy)
car.
Rick'59 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
Stay on top of things, check email from other accounts!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9671355

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Jul 22 16:06:07 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 08:06:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville
In-Reply-To: <20090722175357.P485L.2232133.root@mp06>
References: <BLU107-DS2B818FA28C50C144B903BB31B0@phx.gbl>
	<20090722175357.P485L.2232133.root@mp06>
Message-ID: <83D075BEF2434B77B6EA76B06F8A1999@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Last week I travelled 800 miles to our state of Victoria to visit Steve and
Helen Pike and take photos of the two cars.

Both are absolutely stunning and on first sight the Streamliner literally
will take your breath away.

If anyone would like a low res image of the cars drop me a note back and by
the end of my day I'll send one to those who respond.

It's just gone 8am here on the East Coast of Australia so please let me know
over the next 8 hours.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of bighealey at charter.net
Sent: Thursday, 23 July 2009 7:54 AM
To: gary brierton; Jim Cox
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonneville

Gary,

Also Steve Pike sent a note yesterday that although the cars were to come
here to the Bay Area and up to Laguna Seca, that will not happen.  Continued
work caused delays such that the cars will come to the Seattle Port.  So if
folks were planning to come to Laguna Seca and the AHCUSA BBQ at "On the
Road Again" it has been cancelled.

Steve said he will be at the Historics though.

See you in Utah as  Brian Bliven and I will camp at the bend in the road.

Cheers!

Tracy Drummond 
President AHCUSA

---- gary brierton <gbrierton at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Hi Jim,
> This is the annual "World of Speed"  (use to be Speed Week) where
everybody
> with all sorts of cars comes to make record runs.  That definitely runs
from
> 9/16 through 9/19 (see www.saltflats.com ).  What we are all excited about
is
> the running of the two replica Healeys from Australia (the 1954
Streamliner
> and the endurance record  breaker), put together by Steve Pike (and
others).
> That whole team will be there to start runs on Wednesday 9/16.  Roy
> Jackson-Moore, Carroll Shelby, John Chatham and many others are expected
to be
> there.  Also, on the preceding Saturday, the cars will be at Miller
> Motorsports Park and a carshow/Bar-B-Q will be held (see
> www.millermotorsportspark.com ) hosted by the Bonneville AHCA.  There are
> small fees for all events.
> All the info is on www.healeysreturntobonneville.com
> You can always contact me for more details.
> GaryB
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jim Cox" <tappiokie at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:22 PM
> To: <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Bonneville
> 
> > Hi Gary - I am interested in going also. Is this strictly a Healey
> > speed run or are other cars going to be there also? Are the dates firm
> > 9/16-9/19? The newsletter seems to leave this open a bit. Thanks, Jim
> > Cox National Member, AHCA

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jul 22 18:01:06 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:01:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Sender and Positive Ground
In-Reply-To: <C68CC8CD.357F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <20090722190106.2WTBY.99283.root@ispmxfep11-z02>

Is this the same NOS Locators who sell windshields?  If so, before you buy one from them check with me.

tom

---- Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu> wrote: 
> I have purchased a fuel tank sender from NOS Locators and before I install
> it, I thought I would ask if I will have any problems in wiring, since my
> BJ8 is positive ground?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 19:41:32 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 21:41:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
Message-ID: <4A67BFCC.5090703@comcast.net>

This past weekend I ran into Melody Cooke at the Pittsburgh Vintage 
Grand Prix who was selling Bill's (and her) new Healey and Austin-Healey 
DVD called /Historic Healeys "Speed and Beauty". / It is hot off the 
press, as I was apparently the first buyer./
/So far I've watched some of it and it is not only very informative, but 
well done with some historic footage. A must have for all of us serious 
Healey and Austin-Healey fans.
They've set up a website http://www.HistoricHealeys.com where more can 
be learned about it and it can be ordered.
Melody plans to be at Encounter at Pocono Manor in a couple of weeks, so 
maybe you can make some sort of deal to pick up your copy there and save 
the shipping.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jul 22 19:38:44 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 20:38:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <4A67BFCC.5090703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02>

Bill stopped by to visit with me at the PVGP and told me about his new video.  I had good intentions of going to his stand and buying one but it totally slipped my mind.  I'll have to try to get one from him.

tom


---- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote: 
> This past weekend I ran into Melody Cooke at the Pittsburgh Vintage 
> Grand Prix who was selling Bill's (and her) new Healey and Austin-Healey 
> DVD called /Historic Healeys "Speed and Beauty". / It is hot off the 
> press, as I was apparently the first buyer./
> /So far I've watched some of it and it is not only very informative, but 
> well done with some historic footage. A must have for all of us serious 
> Healey and Austin-Healey fans.
> They've set up a website http://www.HistoricHealeys.com where more can 
> be learned about it and it can be ordered.
> Melody plans to be at Encounter at Pocono Manor in a couple of weeks, so 
> maybe you can make some sort of deal to pick up your copy there and save 
> the shipping.
> Charlie Baldwin
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 20:33:00 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:33:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02>
References: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>

I am pretty sure Bill said he will be at Bonneville for the Healey runs on 
9/16.  In his note mailed out last week he gives this address order the DVD:
Bill Emerson
9030 E. Devils Neck Rd.
Floral City, FL  34436
$35.00 + $4.95 s & h
check cash or money order
I have no financial interest yadayada
GB

--------------------------------------------------
From: <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 9:38 PM
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>; "Capital Area Austin Healey" 
<CAAHC at yahoogroups.com>; "Joe Spear" <bjspear1 at verizon.net>; "healeylist" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD

> Bill stopped by to visit with me at the PVGP and told me about his new 
> video.  I had good intentions of going to his stand and buying one but it 
> totally slipped my mind.  I'll have to try to get one from him.
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:
>> This past weekend I ran into Melody Cooke at the Pittsburgh Vintage
>> Grand Prix who was selling Bill's (and her) new Healey and Austin-Healey
>> DVD called /Historic Healeys "Speed and Beauty". / It is hot off the
>> press, as I was apparently the first buyer./
>> /So far I've watched some of it and it is not only very informative, but
>> well done with some historic footage. A must have for all of us serious
>> Healey and Austin-Healey fans.
>> They've set up a website http://www.HistoricHealeys.com where more can
>> be learned about it and it can be ordered.
>> Melody plans to be at Encounter at Pocono Manor in a couple of weeks, so
>> maybe you can make some sort of deal to pick up your copy there and save
>> the shipping.
>> Charlie Baldwin
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name 
>> of mgcharlie.vcf]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Jul 22 21:53:20 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:53:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>
References: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02>
	<BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A926937F91B54563B1C8E78DEED297FC@GregPC>

Speaking of Mr. Emerson, there is a wonderful story in the September 2009 
issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotic about Donald and Geoffrey Healey's trip 
across the USA in a Healey Westland in 1948, photos "courtesy of Bill 
Emerson".

Great pictures as well as Donald's reflections on American car and other 
culture and conditions of the day.  Definitely worth a look for those of you 
interested in all things Healey.

Greg Lemon

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Jul 22 22:04:02 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:04:02 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <A926937F91B54563B1C8E78DEED297FC@GregPC>
References: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02><BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>
	<A926937F91B54563B1C8E78DEED297FC@GregPC>
Message-ID: <B276BFC90AED40CB9C96A7A51BEF92C0@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Greg

Copies of Hemmings are few and far between in this part of the world. Any
chance of scanning and send it across?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Thursday, 23 July 2009 1:53 PM
To: gary brierton; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD

Speaking of Mr. Emerson, there is a wonderful story in the September 2009 
issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotic about Donald and Geoffrey Healey's trip 
across the USA in a Healey Westland in 1948, photos "courtesy of Bill 
Emerson".

Great pictures as well as Donald's reflections on American car and other 
culture and conditions of the day.  Definitely worth a look for those of you

interested in all things Healey.

Greg Lemon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jul 22 22:20:48 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 04:20:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <B276BFC90AED40CB9C96A7A51BEF92C0@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02><BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>
	<A926937F91B54563B1C8E78DEED297FC@GregPC> 
	<B276BFC90AED40CB9C96A7A51BEF92C0@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W22490900CA216D0E001B1A5180@phx.gbl>

Incidentally I just noticed a copy of Bill's book on eBay for an asking price
of $475. I assume it's one of the special editions...
Bill Lawrence

> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> To: glemon at neb.rr.com; gbrierton at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:04:02 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
>
> G'day Greg
>
> Copies of Hemmings are few and far between in this part of the world. Any
> chance of scanning and send it across?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
> Sent: Thursday, 23 July 2009 1:53 PM
> To: gary brierton; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
>
> Speaking of Mr. Emerson, there is a wonderful story in the September 2009
> issue of Hemmings Sports and Exotic about Donald and Geoffrey Healey's trip
> across the USA in a Healey Westland in 1948, photos "courtesy of Bill
> Emerson".
>
> Great pictures as well as Donald's reflections on American car and other
> culture and conditions of the day.  Definitely worth a look for those of
you
>
> interested in all things Healey.
>
> Greg Lemon
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Jul 23 08:02:06 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:02:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W22490900CA216D0E001B1A5180@phx.gbl>
References: <20090722203844.C0OEX.101040.root@ispmxfep11-z02><BLU107-DS17E6F8F713C4B02A6E8C0B3180@phx.gbl>
	<A926937F91B54563B1C8E78DEED297FC@GregPC> 
	<B276BFC90AED40CB9C96A7A51BEF92C0@PatrickQuinnPC> 
	<BAY144-W22490900CA216D0E001B1A5180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL109-W42B47EEE96BCB63F675571AD180@phx.gbl>

I found a copy of Bill's Book "The Healey Book" on ebay for about $189.00.
Makes me glad that my wife bought a Limited Edition of it, as a gift for me,
from Bill one night at our club meeting after he had just had them printed. He
and Melody arre always a joy to talk with.

Bill

BJ7




> Incidentally I just noticed a copy of Bill's book on eBay for an asking
price
> of $475. I assume it's one of the special editions...
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> > To: glemon at neb.rr.com; gbrierton at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:04:02 +1000
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Bill Emerson DVD
> >
> > G'day Greg
> >
> > Copies of Hemmings are few and far between in this part of the world. Any
> > chance of scanning and send it across?
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Sydney, Australia

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 09:07:32 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:07:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville
In-Reply-To: <BLU107-DS2B818FA28C50C144B903BB31B0@phx.gbl>
References: <c0d7ebc50907221222k601497dcgdb078726268074f8@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU107-DS2B818FA28C50C144B903BB31B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS573F48B07FA00D9D7DED2B3180@phx.gbl>

My mistake listers.  The  "World of Speed" where the Healey Streamliner and 
endurance cars are going to run September 16 - ff is not the re-named Speed 
Week!  Speed Week still exists and will be on Aug 8-14 this year.  Pardon my 
confusion.  Come to the Salt Flats on September 16 - 19 to see the Healeys 
Return To  Bonneville.
GaryB
--------------------------------------------------
From: "gary brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 4:12 PM
To: "Jim Cox" <tappiokie at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonneville

> Hi Jim,
> This is the annual "World of Speed"  (use to be Speed Week) where 
> everybody
> with all sorts of cars comes to make record runs.  That definitely runs 
> from
> 9/16 through 9/19 (see www.saltflats.com ).  What we are all excited about 
> is
> the running of the two replica Healeys from Australia (the 1954 
> Streamliner
> and the endurance record  breaker), put together by Steve Pike (and 
> others).
> That whole team will be there to start runs on Wednesday 9/16.  Roy
> Jackson-Moore, Carroll Shelby, John Chatham and many others are expected 
> to be
> there.  Also, on the preceding Saturday, the cars will be at Miller
> Motorsports Park and a carshow/Bar-B-Q will be held (see
> www.millermotorsportspark.com ) hosted by the Bonneville AHCA.  There are
> small fees for all events.
> All the info is on www.healeysreturntobonneville.com
> You can always contact me for more details.
> GaryB

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 23 10:02:03 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:02:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] THE WOODSTOCK (NY) BRITISH CAR MEET - SATURDAY,
	SEPTEMBER  26th
Message-ID: <5251343.1248364923731.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

econd Annual
WOODSTOCK BRITISH CAR MEET
(British motorcycles & pre-1980 European cars invited too)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER  26th  -  10:00AM to 4:PM
(Rain Date: Sunday, September 27)

AT THE WOODSTOCK PLAYHOUSE
Intersection of Route 212 and Route 375, Woodstock, NY

Join more than 100 British car owners for a smashing display of classic, 
quirky, and lovable British classics, right in the heart of Woodstock New 
York and the Catskill Mountains.

Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Projects-in-progress, daily drivers, 
and vintage racers are just as welcome as Concours quality show cars. 
If it's British, bring it!   The heart of the picturesque and historic hamlet of 
Woodstock is just a few minutes walk from the Playhouse, offering shops, 
restaurants, live music, & much more.

Cars will enter the field starting at 10:AM, and the fun goes on all day. 
Around 2 pm, we'll present awards, including People's Choice and the 
Longest Distance Traveled. Spectators are welcome -  FREE parking 
is available.

The registration fee for British cars is $15 per car at the gate; there is no 
pre-registration.  All of the proceeds from this event benefit the non-profit 
Woodstock Playhouse. non-profit Food and Refreshments will be available

DIRECTIONS
>From NYS Thruway / I-87: Take Exit 19 (Kingston) and head west on Route 
28 for 5.8 miles (Speed Trap - stay under 50 mph) then turn right onto Route 
375 North, which will end 2.9 miles later at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
>From Saugerties (Exit 20) Take Route 212 West into the hamlet of Woodstock.
The intersection of Route 375 will be on your left; the Playhouse entrance is on 
your right. From points west: Take Route 28 East to Route 375 North. Travel 
2.9 miles, and the road will end at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: e-mail Woodstock.British at gmail.com

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Thu Jul 23 15:02:03 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 17:02:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
Message-ID: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>

List,
Just want to say thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. All of  
your comments were quite helpful, and appreciated.

I am going to mount some adjustable shock absorbing feet on the bottom  
of two pieces of 4 x 4 and then bolt the compressor to the wood 4 x 4.  
This will allow me to be sure the unit is level, and I will be able to  
slide a drip pan under the unit easily. Then I will turn it on and see  
if it wants to "walk." If it does, I will put a strap around it, but I  
will wait on that until I see what it happens.

Again. Thanks everyone. I really did not want to drill the holes in  
the floor! The purchaser's comments of this particular unit call it  
especially quiet, but I will reserve judgment until I see it in action.

Lin

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Thu Jul 23 16:32:53 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:32:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Questions about convertible top Boot
Message-ID: <C68E3325.35E2%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I need a boot for my BJ8 top.  Has anyone purchased items from britboy55?

He has a boot on eBay:  http://tinyurl.com/koavks

Thanks, 

Michael

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 16:49:26 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 22:49:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Questions about convertible top Boot
In-Reply-To: <C68E3325.35E2%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <1690508079.4696201248389366617.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I bought a refurbed BJ8 speedometer from him a couple months ago. He was helpful and product was as advertised. Took him a few days to get the shipment out, though. The business is Britanniclassics, LLC. 

FWIW, the new replacement boots I've seen don't fit as well as the originals (they seem to lay too 'flat' and don't contain the hood as well). The original boots have a different grain--coarser--than what appears in the photos (as far as can be told from the photos). 


Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu> 
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 3:32:53 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Questions about convertible top Boot 

I need a boot for my BJ8 top. Has anyone purchased items from britboy55? 

He has a boot on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/koavks 

Thanks, 

Michael 
_______________________________________________ 

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 16:52:18 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:52:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Questions about convertible top Boot
In-Reply-To: <C68E3325.35E2%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C68E3325.35E2%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W1979C81E0DA6829BA3DD63DB180@phx.gbl>

I bought mine from AH Spares a few years ago. Not sure if this one on Ebay has
the snaps included.

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
Fountain Hills, AZ

People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the
newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain




> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:32:53 -0700
> From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Questions about convertible top Boot
>
> I need a boot for my BJ8 top. Has anyone purchased items from britboy55?
>
> He has a boot on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/koavks
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jobu53 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Search, add, and share the webs latest sports videos.
Check it out.
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_QA_HM_sports_videos_072009&cat=sports

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 03:10:32 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 11:10:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
In-Reply-To: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>

Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/7/23 Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>

> List,
> Just want to say thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. All of your
> comments were quite helpful, and appreciated.
>
> I am going to mount some adjustable shock absorbing feet on the bottom of
> two pieces of 4 x 4 and then bolt the compressor to the wood 4 x 4. This
> will allow me to be sure the unit is level, and I will be able to slide a
> drip pan under the unit easily. Then I will turn it on and see if it wants
> to "walk." If it does, I will put a strap around it, but I will wait on that
> until I see what it happens.
>
> Again. Thanks everyone. I really did not want to drill the holes in the
> floor! The purchaser's comments of this particular unit call it especially
> quiet, but I will reserve judgment until I see it in action.
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 05:58:07 2009
From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 04:58:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump "burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while. Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace 2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller had become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
 morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops. Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is clean. Any ideas. 

Jim Brown




________________________________
From: Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 5:10:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air compressor install

Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/7/23 Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>

> List,
> Just want to say thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. All of your
> comments were quite helpful, and appreciated.
>
> I am going to mount some adjustable shock absorbing feet on the bottom of
> two pieces of 4 x 4 and then bolt the compressor to the wood 4 x 4. This
> will allow me to be sure the unit is level, and I will be able to slide a
> drip pan under the unit easily. Then I will turn it on and see if it wants
> to "walk." If it does, I will put a strap around it, but I will wait on that
> until I see what it happens.
>
> Again. Thanks everyone. I really did not want to drill the holes in the
> floor! The purchaser's comments of this particular unit call it especially
> quiet, but I will reserve judgment until I see it in action.
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 24 06:08:31 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 08:08:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
	<421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00e001ca0c57$76a20c60$63e62520$@net>

Do you have a filter between the tank and the pumps??? Seems to me that is
where it should be to prevent crud from fouling your pumps.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jim brown
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem

A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump
"burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was
one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One
went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car
has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance
and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while.
Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the
carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the
filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the
other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace
2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after
shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller had
become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
 morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock
in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but
all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas
which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops.
Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is
clean. Any ideas.

Jim Brown

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 24 07:29:29 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 15:29:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
	<421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A69B739.40307@chello.nl>

These are not impeller pumps but diaphragm pumps. As they both tick away
I suspect that they are just full of dirt from the tank.
Dismantle, clean, check and rebuild and fit filters between tank and pumps.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


jim brown schreef:
> A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump
"burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was
one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One
went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car has
become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance and then
dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while. Both pumps
are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the carbs when it
begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the filter). On each of 3
occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the other kept going but
still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace 2 pumps). The dead pump
wouldn't work at first on the bench but after shooting some lubricant into it
it began to run-seemed like the impeller had become stuck. After being towed
home the car started right up the next
>  morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock
in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but all
three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas which I
suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops. Gas tank
seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is clean. Any
ideas.
>
> Jim Brown

From grday at btinternet.com  Fri Jul 24 07:37:48 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:37:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005F6B7C7DC94030BA31BFE2DC975F15@dell330>

LOL.
It is a LBC - a Little Blasted Compressor.


Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air compressor install


> Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
>
> 2009/7/23 Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
>
>> List,
>> Just want to say thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. All of your
>> comments were quite helpful, and appreciated.
>>
>> I am going to mount some adjustable shock absorbing feet on the bottom of
>> two pieces of 4 x 4 and then bolt the compressor to the wood 4 x 4. This
>> will allow me to be sure the unit is level, and I will be able to slide a
>> drip pan under the unit easily. Then I will turn it on and see if it 
>> wants
>> to "walk." If it does, I will put a strap around it, but I will wait on 
>> that
>> until I see what it happens.
>>
>> Again. Thanks everyone. I really did not want to drill the holes in the
>> floor! The purchaser's comments of this particular unit call it 
>> especially
>> quiet, but I will reserve judgment until I see it in action.
>>
>> Lin
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as grday at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wpollock at inbox.com  Fri Jul 24 07:41:10 2009
From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 09:41:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys 1948 trans US trip
Message-ID: <9687F3C5108D49F0B1EF9FA93CF0AFBE@saybrook1>

In the Sept  issue of , Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car, is an interesting
article of Donald Healeys 1948 trip across the US in a  Healey Westland.  The
article has a map of the route and a number of interesting photos taken along
the way.

Bill Pollock

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 07:50:48 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:50:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
	<421173.20040.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A69BC38.5040203@comcast.net>

Sounds to me like you have an air leak on the inlet side.  The pumps are 
overheating.

You didn't specify if these are SU pumps or aftermarket rotary/impeller type. 
SUs don't require any lubrication (in fact, it would probably be a bad idea to 
put oil on/in an SU).  The aftermarket rotary pumps--AFAIK--don't use fuel for 
lubrication (only fuel injection pumps that are immersed in the tank require 
fuel for lubrication--again, AFAIK).


Bob



jim brown wrote:
> A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump "burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while. Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace 2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller had become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
>  morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops. Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is clean. Any ideas. 
> 
> Jim Brown

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Jul 24 07:57:34 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:57:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys 1948 trans US trip
In-Reply-To: <9687F3C5108D49F0B1EF9FA93CF0AFBE@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <0EDD5E72591F44D4984411F2A882E0C2@TRACY>

This is a good article.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wpollock at inbox
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 6:41 AM
To: list
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys 1948 trans US trip

In the Sept  issue of , Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car, is an interesting
article of Donald Healeys 1948 trip across the US in a  Healey Westland.
The
article has a map of the route and a number of interesting photos taken
along
the way.

Bill Pollock
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From vern at srvinet.com  Fri Jul 24 07:58:07 2009
From: vern at srvinet.com (Vern)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
Message-ID: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>

Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
alumium alloy. Would be great to know
what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
explaination.
Vern

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 24 07:59:27 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 8:59:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <4A69BC38.5040203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090724085927.O0Q2W.128500.root@ispmxfep15-z01>

I'll bet the in-tank sock fuel filter is clogged.  Happened to my BJ8 once and took me a few years to figure it out.


---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Sounds to me like you have an air leak on the inlet side.  The pumps are 
> overheating.
> 
> You didn't specify if these are SU pumps or aftermarket rotary/impeller type. 
> SUs don't require any lubrication (in fact, it would probably be a bad idea to 
> put oil on/in an SU).  The aftermarket rotary pumps--AFAIK--don't use fuel for 
> lubrication (only fuel injection pumps that are immersed in the tank require 
> fuel for lubrication--again, AFAIK).
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> jim brown wrote:
> > A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump "burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while. Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace 2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller had become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
> >  morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops. Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is clean. Any ideas. 
> > 
> > Jim Brown
> 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
> 
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kit at henrymotorsports.com  Fri Jul 24 08:20:58 2009
From: kit at henrymotorsports.com (Kit Henry)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:20:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone Interested at a new lower price
Message-ID: <6D4F7300B3DA46A1BCA3E67C269C8DC6@henryfce283bea>

1968

Jaguar XKE Roadster



Minor restoration needs to be completed

New style nose, series 1 rear end

All new paint in yellow, professionally done

Complete new Interior (seats, squabs, carpet, console, door panels, dash,
etc.) kit is a OSJI Brand (This is top of the line - formerly Bartlett)
http://www.osji.com/index.php?op=history as is the new Original Specification
top.

All professionally installed

Needs weather strips installed for final door adjustments

4.2 Liter inline 6

Dual carbs rebuilt by professional technician.

Car runs fine, carb linkage still needs tweaking

New heater box

New Battery

New brakes all 4 corners

California car cover

Stored in controlled climate garage

Chrome replaced as needed

Original Wheels in Good Solid Condition



Gold Book Report



      1968 JAGUAR XKE Series I 4.2L
     Dsp/HP
     Eng
     Fair
     Good
     Exc
     Show

     Loan

      CONVERTIBLE 1964-68
     4.2/265
     6C
     35,000
     64,000
     122,000
     140,000
     H
     58,000




Asking 35,000.00  Price Lowered $20,000.00 from last year

Car Located in Bellevue, Ohio

More Photos and Information available



Kit Henry kit at henrymotorsports.com

419-217-0685



We realize the car needs finishing and have set the price accordingly



Car is in Bellevue, Ohio 44811, = way between Toledo, Ohio, and Cleveland,
Ohio

Just south of Sandusky, Ohio  Cedar Point amusement park.



Kit Henry

419-217-0685

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 08:27:50 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 07:27:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
Message-ID: <4A69C4E6.8070701@comcast.net>

Vern,

The scuttle is what we Yanks call a firewall.

I too am interested in an alloy discussion.


Bob



Vern wrote:
> Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
> have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
> alumium alloy. Would be great to know
> what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
> The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
> references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
> it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
> explaination.
> Vern
> _______________________________________________

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 24 08:53:26 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 16:53:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
Message-ID: <4A69CAE6.2070506@chello.nl>

Vern,
Scuttle (UK) is often used as meaning firewall (US). This is not 
strictly correct I believe, as it is the part between bonnet (hood) and 
windscreen, more or less the structure the dashboard is fitted to.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Vern schreef:
> Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
> have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
> alumium alloy. Would be great to know
> what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
> The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
> references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
> it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
> explaination.
> Vern
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.27/2258 - Release Date: 07/24/09 05:58:00

From scvc70 at epix.net  Fri Jul 24 08:58:32 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:58:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
	<4A69C4E6.8070701@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0D17F6F5FC894930911AB9B54A23DB55@S0026273562>

Not just the firewall -- the OED definition is:

    "The part of a motor-car body between the bonnet and the windscreen."

(I've always translated it as "cowl").

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Vern" <vern at srvinet.com>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] aluminum shroud


> Vern,
>
> The scuttle is what we Yanks call a firewall.
>
> I too am interested in an alloy discussion.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> Vern wrote:
>> Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
>> have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
>> alumium alloy. Would be great to know
>> what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
>> The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
>> references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
>> it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
>> explaination.
>> Vern
>> _______________________________________________
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as scvc70 at epix.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 24 09:21:32 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 15:21:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W281DEC7EC874CE18ACAF8BD5190@phx.gbl>

Vern



There has been alot of discussion if you search the archives: ie click on the
> http://www.team.net/archive on any email from the list and try searching
shroud welding etc, you will get plenty of info.



One material recommended is 0.063 inch thick 6061-T6 alloy for the shrouds,
some have tig and some gas welded, everyone will have an opinion.



And heres the link to the original jensen stuff:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organise, edit, and share your photos.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 09:46:48 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 15:46:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W281DEC7EC874CE18ACAF8BD5190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1170680752.4905811248450408135.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Cool ... the shrouds were TIG-welded, hand-finished with no filler required. Pretty advanced stuff for the time, methinks. 

Another one for the English<->American dictionary: Argonarc==TIG 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com> 
To: vern at srvinet.com, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 8:21:32 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] aluminum shroud 

Vern 



There has been alot of discussion if you search the archives: ie click on the 
> http://www.team.net/archive on any email from the list and try searching 
shroud welding etc, you will get plenty of info. 



One material recommended is 0.063 inch thick 6061-T6 alloy for the shrouds, 
some have tig and some gas welded, everyone will have an opinion. 



And heres the link to the original jensen stuff: 
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html 



cheers Andy 



You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 24 10:01:27 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 16:01:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <007e01ca0c75$1a56bf00$4f043d00$@com>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
	<SNT103-W281DEC7EC874CE18ACAF8BD5190@phx.gbl>
	<007e01ca0c75$1a56bf00$4f043d00$@com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W282EC5F749DE34BE918643D5190@phx.gbl>

Jim



With respect, my point was :)



That is there is a wealth of information if you know how to search for it! I
profess to only knowing only a little about welding (gas / mig) and
'apparently' the closest original ali as specified by Roger M was as
mentioned. As most people only repair the flanges, would little shaping be
required? I am sure Vern will find the info helpfull.



My point is that the next discussion might be on oil, if so please someone do
a search on zddp first!



Perhaps I was not being as helpful as I thought giving examples of the
archive, foot in mouth springs to mind.



cheers Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Celebrate a decade of Messenger with free winks, emoticons, display pics, and
more.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/157562755/direct/01/

From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 11:28:20 2009
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:28:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
Message-ID: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
As always any and all info would be helpful.

     Thanks Don
     67BJ-8 still under re-construction   

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jul 24 12:07:44 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:07:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  fuel problem
Message-ID: <6BC3748FA1AF4AAFA3D19147D3CE73A0@LIFEBOOK>

 Jim,

 What sort of pumps are they? They certainly don't sound like SU's. I can't
 imagine where you would "lubricate" an SU pump, and SU's do not have an
 impeller. Let's sort that fact out first, then we can diagnose from there.

 Rich Chrysler

 ----- Original Message ----- 
 From: "jim brown" <jbrown5093 at yahoo.com>
 To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:58 AM
 Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem


A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump
"burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was
one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One
went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car
has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance
and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while.
Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the
carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the
filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the
other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace
2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after
shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller
had become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
 morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock
 in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but
 all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas
 which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops.
 Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is
 clean. Any ideas.

 Jim Brown

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 12:26:23 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:26:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <881154191.4970801248459983101.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

FWIW, the balancer on my BJ8 was cracked and looked tired but we used it anyway when we rebuilt the engine about 80K miles ago. Still running fine. 

The risk is the balancer coming apart, but I've never heard of that happening. 



Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Day" <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:28:20 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer 

I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350. 
As always any and all info would be helpful. 

Thanks Don 
67BJ-8 still under re-construction 
_______________________________________________ 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 13:09:23 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:09:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <881154191.4970801248459983101.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1100925890.4988581248462563868.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oops ... should have written the RUBBER was cracked and looked tired. I wouldn't use a balancer if the metal part was cracked (of if the keyway was worn). 


Bob 




Re: 


FWIW, the balancer on my BJ8 was cracked and looked tired but we used it anyway when we rebuilt the engine about 80K miles ago. Still running fine. 

The risk is the balancer coming apart, but I've never heard of that happening. 



Bob 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 13:13:45 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:13:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <6BC3748FA1AF4AAFA3D19147D3CE73A0@LIFEBOOK>
References: <6BC3748FA1AF4AAFA3D19147D3CE73A0@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <173126440907241213w3563681by3e334953ca894b38@mail.gmail.com>

I picked up a copy of Classics monthly, while in England first of the month.
It is the Aug 2009 addition. Besides a great article on restoring a 100-4,
there is a lengthy photo supported article on how to rebuild a SU fuel pump.
Really informative. I am leaving for boy scout camp fro a week, but could
try to scan it when I get home 1st of Aug. and send it to whomever wants
it.. The do not appear to have an electronic copy of the magazine or I would
have included a link.
If I find one, I will post.
Ira Erbs
Portland, Oregon (on the west coast of the US, above California)
1959 BT7 owned over 35 years
BTW other LBCs owned ( or cared for /drove girlfriends car)
1965 Sunbeam Imp with race motor owned
1963 MGB project never finished sold foolishly 25 years ago
1959 MGA coupe girlfriend
TR6 girlfriend


On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> What sort of pumps are they? They certainly don't sound like SU's. I can't
> imagine where you would "lubricate" an SU pump, and SU's do not have an
> impeller. Let's sort that fact out first, then we can diagnose from there.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "jim brown" <jbrown5093 at yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 7:58 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
>
>
> A couple of weeks ago there was a post outlining a problem with a fuel pump
> "burnning" out on 2 occations. I didn't see a final resolution if there was
> one. I have had 2 electric fuel pumps in parallel on my BT7 for years. One
> went about 3 months ago. I just thought it was old age. Since then the car
> has become fuel starved on 2 occasions. It sills run for a short distance
> and then dies, full choke sometimes keeps it sputtering along for a while.
> Both pumps are working (they click very fast) but no fuel delivery to the
> carbs when it begins to die (scant fuel and a occasional bubble in the
> filter). On each of 3 occasions one of the pumps eventually died while the
> other kept going but still no fuel (shut it off so I didn't have to replace
> 2 pumps). The dead pump wouldn't work at first on the bench but after
> shooting some lubricant into it it began to run-seemed like the impeller
> had become stuck. After being towed home the car started right up the next
> morning on the still good pump. . I've never had a problem with vapor lock
> in 15 years and think that an electric pump should overcome it anyway but
> all three times it was a hot day. I think the pumps are not getting gas
> which I suspect lubricates the impeller then it binds and the pump stops.
> Gas tank seems ok, no leaks. no junk and the filter before the carbs is
> clean. Any ideas.
>
> Jim Brown
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Fri Jul 24 13:47:06 2009
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:47:06 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
Message-ID: <20090724.124706.5531.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>

The fuel delivery problem is back, though with a twist. Son's '59 AN5. Car
starts right up. Drive it away and around town . (So it warms up some.) At
idle at a stop light starts to miss, then one cylinder is definately "off" ,
then another and then an ignomenious tow home- by the WIFE! Not GOOD! Any
ideas? TIA
Mike Gougeon '56 BN2

From robertlarson at att.net  Fri Jul 24 14:05:40 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 16:05:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem - Classics Monthly Magazine
In-Reply-To: <173126440907241213w3563681by3e334953ca894b38@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6BC3748FA1AF4AAFA3D19147D3CE73A0@LIFEBOOK>
	<173126440907241213w3563681by3e334953ca894b38@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A6A1414.9020208@att.net>

Anybody know of a USA source for this magazine.  I would like to obtain 
a copy for the 100-4
article.

Bob
55BN1

I Erbs wrote:
> I picked up a copy of Classics monthly, while in England first of the month.
> It is the Aug 2009 addition. Besides a great article on restoring a 100-4,
> there is a lengthy photo supported article on how to rebuild a SU fuel pump.
> Really informative. I am leaving for boy scout camp fro a week, but could
> try to scan it when I get home 1st of Aug. and send it to whomever wants
> it.. The do not appear to have an electronic copy of the magazine or I would
> have included a link.
> If I find one, I will post.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, Oregon (on the west coast of the US, above California)
> 1959 BT7 owned over 35 years
> BTW other LBCs owned ( or cared for /drove girlfriends car)
> 1965 Sunbeam Imp with race motor owned
> 1963 MGB project never finished sold foolishly 25 years ago
> 1959 MGA coupe girlfriend
> TR6 girlfriend

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 14:06:58 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:06:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
In-Reply-To: <20090724.124706.5531.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090724.124706.5531.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10907241306k22cf2e7ax96f54a46f9101876@mail.gmail.com>

What makes you think is is fuel related?

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 12:47 PM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com <
kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote:

> The fuel delivery problem is back, though with a twist. Son's '59 AN5. Car
> starts right up. Drive it away and around town . (So it warms up some.) At
> idle at a stop light starts to miss, then one cylinder is definately "off"
> ,
> then another and then an ignomenious tow home- by the WIFE! Not GOOD! Any
> ideas? TIA
> Mike Gougeon '56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Fri Jul 24 14:35:34 2009
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 20:35:34 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
Message-ID: <20090724.133534.26631.1@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

One of you guys asked the obvious question--how did I know if it was, indeed,
fuel at all? Truth? I have no idea! I'm open to whatever might make this
happen.  Mike Gougeom 56BN2

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 14:41:03 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem - Classics Monthly Magazine
In-Reply-To: <4A6A1414.9020208@att.net>
References: <6BC3748FA1AF4AAFA3D19147D3CE73A0@LIFEBOOK>
	<173126440907241213w3563681by3e334953ca894b38@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A6A1414.9020208@att.net>
Message-ID: <378154.40899.qm@web110313.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

the source is the website:  
http://tinyurl.com/classicsmonthly 
 
Go down to
the bottom of the page and click 'ordering outside of the UK'.
or else click
'contact us'
 




________________________________
From: Bob
<robertlarson at att.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday,
July 24, 2009 4:05:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel problem - Classics
Monthly Magazine

Anybody know of a USA source for this magazine.  I would
like to obtain a copy for the 100-4
article.

Bob
55BN1

I Erbs wrote:
> I
picked up a copy of Classics monthly, while in England first of the month.
>
It is the Aug 2009 addition. Besides a great article on restoring a 100-4,
>
there is a lengthy photo supported article on how to rebuild a SU fuel pump.
>
Really informative. I am leaving for boy scout camp fro a week, but could
>
try to scan it when I get home 1st of Aug. and send it to whomever wants
>
it.. The do not appear to have an electronic copy of the magazine or I would
>
have included a link.
> If I find one, I will post.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,
Oregon (on the west coast of the US, above California)
> 1959 BT7 owned over
35 years
> BTW other LBCs owned ( or cared for /drove girlfriends car)
> 1965
Sunbeam Imp with race motor owned
> 1963 MGB project never finished sold
foolishly 25 years ago
> 1959 MGA coupe girlfriend
> TR6 girlfriend
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
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You are subscribed as
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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 15:00:46 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 14:00:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
In-Reply-To: <20090724.133046.26631.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090724.133046.26631.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10907241400k1a7ce5bepab9877eaab3855f1@mail.gmail.com>

I'm in the car business (former tech, now a service manager)  many a time
guys would go for a test drive on a car that was acting up and when it acted
up one tech would look at the other and say "It feels like fuel"  or "It
feel like ignition"
My response was always
"So just what does fuel feel like?"
If you dropped one cylinder and then a second, it is not pump or supply.  It
might be one carb that is bad, but that is not where I would look first.
Fuel
Air
Spark.
In the right place
At the right time
In the right amount.

One of the first three has an issue with one of the second three.
If I had to guess where to start looking I would start with spark.  Are the
points opening and closing?  Is the point gap right?  Is there a spark when
they open?  Does the coil make a big ass spark when the points open?  Put
the cap back on and make sure the spark gets to the plugs? (bad rotor?)
Check the timing.
Only then would I start looking at fuel.
Rick

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 1:30 PM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com <
kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote:

> Hmmmmm. You are right-- why DO I think fuel? (Honestly I know little about
> this-- hit me with your best shot!
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
> To: "kaynmike.bham at juno.com" <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:06:58 -0700
>
> What makes you think is is fuel related?
>
> On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 12:47 PM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com <
> kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote:
>
>> The fuel delivery problem is back, though with a twist. Son's '59 AN5. Car
>> starts right up. Drive it away and around town . (So it warms up some.) At
>> idle at a stop light starts to miss, then one cylinder is definately "off"
>> ,
>> then another and then an ignomenious tow home- by the WIFE! Not GOOD! Any
>> ideas? TIA
>> Mike Gougeon '56 BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 18:03:17 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 08:03:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <881154191.4970801248459983101.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<881154191.4970801248459983101.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907241703t20eefccbkb5952456e9f0760@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

There are a couple of people on the list who have had their balancers
delaminate and damage the chassis crossmember.  I would be careful ,
esp with the later BJ8 balancer which has the integrated pully which
will put additional pressure on the rubber.  The one on my BJ8 is
wobbling (!) And so I've parked it and will be pulling the motor soon.

Alan

On 7/25/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> FWIW, the balancer on my BJ8 was cracked and looked tired but we used it
> anyway when we rebuilt the engine about 80K miles ago. Still running fine.
>
> The risk is the balancer coming apart, but I've never heard of that
> happening.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Day" <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:28:20 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
>
> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in
> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber
> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the
> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it
> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>
> Thanks Don
> 67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 24 18:39:44 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 00:39:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W62A79C763A0884DA36EE6C0160@phx.gbl>

Your "balancer" is really a damper. It absorbs harmonic vibrations that will
kick in on our 6 cylinder engines somewhere around 5900 RPM.  Although there
may be some harmonics going on at lower RPMs, it's not really a problem. The
stock dampers usually just dry up from old age, not from dampening anything.
If you are really going to use your motor in anger, then think about a
performance damper. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.
Richard Mayor
BN7L-466 Vintage Racer

> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:28:20 -0700
> From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
>
> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in
the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber looks
dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the list
is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it would be
a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>
>      Thanks Don
>      67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 24 18:42:50 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 00:42:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
Message-ID: <COL106-W225215F45D5B541FF0AE7AC0160@phx.gbl>

The shroud alloy is 3003.  Richard Mayor

> From: vern at srvinet.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:58:07 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
>
> Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
> have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
> alumium alloy. Would be great to know
> what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
> The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
> references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
> it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
> explaination.
> Vern
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From justbrits at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 18:57:44 2009
From: justbrits at comcast.net (justbrits at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:57:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A6A5888.10000@comcast.net>


From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Fri Jul 24 19:11:53 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:11:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
In-Reply-To: <20090724.133534.26631.1@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <20090725011202.7DF8C18764A@autox.team.net>

Ignition coil?

- Peter Schauss

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 4:36 PM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
> 
> One of you guys asked the obvious question--how did I know if it was,
> indeed,
> fuel at all? Truth? I have no idea! I'm open to whatever might make this
> happen.  Mike Gougeom 56BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rosowski at tampabay.rr.com  Fri Jul 24 19:31:40 2009
From: rosowski at tampabay.rr.com (Ron Osowski)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:31:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
References: <881154191.4970801248459983101.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003f01ca0cc7$a9ba3b20$0201a8c0@ronmt6or4k6l23>

Don,

Here's one instance.  Speaking from experience, I would say buy a new one 
and put it on now while the engine is out of the car.  Earlier this year I 
was running my BJ8 home from the Kaiser Devereaux car show following Marion 
Brantley at about 70 - 75 mph, when all of a sudden it sounded like I had 
run over an empty coffee can on the highway.  I slowed down, stopped and 
looked under the hood, checked oil, radiator, etc., but could not see 
anything wrong.  I decided to try driving on, and everything seemed to be 
OK.  It was not until we got back home and driving slow that I could hear a 
peculiar grinding noise like brakes with no lining rubbing.  Upon further 
examination, but not until after my lady companion asked "Parnelli, what's 
that shiny thing down there" that the problem became evident.  The pulley 
and balancer hub were intact on the crankshaft, but the balancing mass and 
remains of the rubber ring were sitting on the chassis cross member and 
bouncing against the hub.

I thought it might be feasible to pry it back on and get more use out of it, 
when I discovered that the ring had worn a perilous amount out of the brake 
line running across the chassis cross member.  This is the line rom the 
master cyclinder to the 3-way coupling, so if that goes there'e nothing more 
than the emergency brakes to stop you.  Needless to say, 36800 is laid up 
until I get the time and money to fix it.  It appears that the front of the 
engine must be lifted to do this, inspite of what the shop manual says.

Ron Osowski

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Don Day" <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer


> FWIW, the balancer on my BJ8 was cracked and looked tired but we used it 
> anyway when we rebuilt the engine about 80K miles ago. Still running fine.
>
> The risk is the balancer coming apart, but I've never heard of that 
> happening.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don Day" <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 10:28:20 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
>
> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in 
> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber 
> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the 
> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it 
> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>
> Thanks Don
> 67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rosowski at tampabay.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From britcrs at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 20:03:02 2009
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:03:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>

I've never used these guys myself but I have read good things about them.
They don't list Austin Healey but I understand they can rebuild yours. They
do list the very rare Austin Martin.
http://www.damperdoctor.com/

Marv J

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:28 AM, Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in
> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber
> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the
> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it
> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>
>     Thanks Don
>     67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 23:48:10 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:48:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] su fuel pump article
Message-ID: <173126440907242248s7f30bee4g6a779be9f023af43@mail.gmail.com>

Many have requested a copy. Please keep in mind, I will be out of town for a
> week attending
> boy scout camp with my son. So it could be at east a week and half before I can get it scanned and sent out
>  cheers,

Ira

>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 5:10:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] air compressor install
>
> Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
>
> 2009/7/23 Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
>
> > List,
> > Just want to say thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. All of your
> > comments were quite helpful, and appreciated.
> >
> > I am going to mount some adjustable shock absorbing feet on the bottom of
> > two pieces of 4 x 4 and then bolt the compressor to the wood 4 x 4. This
> > will allow me to be sure the unit is level, and I will be able to slide a
> > drip pan under the unit easily. Then I will turn it on and see if it
> wants
> > to "walk." If it does, I will put a strap around it, but I will wait on
> that
> > until I see what it happens.
> >
> > Again. Thanks everyone. I really did not want to drill the holes in the
> > floor! The purchaser's comments of this particular unit call it
> especially
> > quiet, but I will reserve judgment until I see it in action.
> >
> > Lin
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 01:54:32 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 09:54:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
In-Reply-To: <xYjU+nCm7caKFwk3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
	<xYjU+nCm7caKFwk3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250907250054o74fd3c4eq2f0fdf1e502478d4@mail.gmail.com>

John,
First of all my apologies for a remark which apparently offends you - that
was not my intention. I just wanted to be funny. On the other hand my
childish remark is not only based on my own experience - it is a well known
fact that British engines, both car engines and motorbike engines, have a
tendency to leak oil. I am not the only one who is of that opinion, as a
matter of fact there are a large number of jokes floating around on this
subject, like: "why have the British never built TV sets? Because they can't
leak oil".
Kind regards from a guy who has been selling and working with British
equipment all his working life.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/7/24 John Harper <100reg at jharper.demon.co.uk>

>
> Jaap
>
> Please explain to me what point there is in making such a childish remark.
>
>
>  Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
>> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
>> 1964 BJ8 29432
>>
> --
> John Harper
>
> 100 Register Secretary
>
> Austin-Healey Club      UK

From vern at srvinet.com  Sat Jul 25 06:53:08 2009
From: vern at srvinet.com (Vern)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 05:53:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
	<SNT103-W281DEC7EC874CE18ACAF8BD5190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CE2A545DD7F9482E9C362DC9534EF9BE@kitchen>

Thanks all of you for your quick and informative replys.  Very nice to join
such a respnsive group.  I have
spent a little time reading the referenced material(good stuff) now to
practice a lot of gas aluminum
welding.  Most of my shrouds problem involve reshaping rather than welding,
but need both.  It is
also nice to know what a scuttle is. thanks again all.
Vern

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: andy pole
  To: vern at srvinet.com ; healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 8:21 AM
  Subject: RE: [Healeys] aluminum shroud


  Vern

  There has been alot of discussion if you search the archives: ie click on
the > http://www.team.net/archive on any email from the list and try searching
shroud welding etc, you will get plenty of info.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Jul 25 07:54:14 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 13:54:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
In-Reply-To: <20090724.124706.5531.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090724.124706.5531.0@webmail16.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W22DAD3A9E6910452D9A367A5160@phx.gbl>

Buy wife a tow dolly?

> From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:47:06 +0000
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Fuel snafu
>
> The fuel delivery problem is back, though with a twist. Son's '59 AN5. Car
> starts right up. Drive it away and around town . (So it warms up some.) At
> idle at a stop light starts to miss, then one cylinder is definately "off"
,
> then another and then an ignomenious tow home- by the WIFE! Not GOOD! Any
> ideas? TIA
> Mike Gougeon '56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Sat Jul 25 08:38:05 2009
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 10:38:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com><4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com><xYjU+nCm7caKFwk3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<4e23c7250907250054o74fd3c4eq2f0fdf1e502478d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001a01ca0d35$86433660$0401a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Jaap,



Thanks for all the info you have shared in the past with me and fellow 
healyphiles. Your hard work and dedication in restoring a Healey that you 
got, in pieces, is amazing and it really turned out beautifully. I didn't 
take offense to your making sport of British stuff because I don't think 
it's a very well kept secret that these beautiful cars leak oil. Why else 
would I, and others, install a rear crankshaft oil seal kit. Norman Nock in 
his Austin-Healey Tech Talk book dedicates numerous pages to Healey oil 
leaks. Please don't hesitate to say whatever you want because I am not 
sensitive, nor easily offended, and I always enjoy your posts. Keep on 
Healeying!



Mel Brunet

HBJ8L/39749





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "John Harper" <100reg at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 3:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air compressor install


> John,
> First of all my apologies for a remark which apparently offends you - that
> was not my intention. I just wanted to be funny. On the other hand my
> childish remark is not only based on my own experience - it is a well 
> known
> fact that British engines, both car engines and motorbike engines, have a
> tendency to leak oil. I am not the only one who is of that opinion, as a
> matter of fact there are a large number of jokes floating around on this
> subject, like: "why have the British never built TV sets? Because they 
> can't
> leak oil".
> Kind regards from a guy who has been selling and working with British
> equipment all his working life.
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
>
> 2009/7/24 John Harper <100reg at jharper.demon.co.uk>
>
>>
>> Jaap
>>
>> Please explain to me what point there is in making such a childish 
>> remark.
>>
>>
>>  Lin, a drip pan under your compressor? Is it made in Britain then?
>>> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
>>> 1964 BJ8 29432
>>>
>> --
>> John Harper
>>
>> 100 Register Secretary
>>
>> Austin-Healey Club      UK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edic at tampabay.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From charlieoc at comcast.net  Sat Jul 25 09:10:45 2009
From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:10:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] KingDick Jack Handle
Message-ID: <05c801ca0d3a$16422ba0$42c682e0$@net>

I recently acquired a nice KingDick Jack, but without a handle.  It was
suggested that I have a local fabrication shop make one for me.  Does anyone
have the specifications for a jack handle?  Or does anyone know where I can
find a jack handle?

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie O'Connors

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 25 09:33:14 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 15:33:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] KingDick Jack Handle
In-Reply-To: <05c801ca0d3a$16422ba0$42c682e0$@net>
References: <05c801ca0d3a$16422ba0$42c682e0$@net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W94902401369B5BDECC191D5160@phx.gbl>

Charlie



You might try this item on ebay: 220449070385 , the lister Albion British
Spares have repro jacks, and on this listing they say contact them for handles
as they are getting them fabricated. It might be worth chasing.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Messenger: Happy 10-Year Anniversaryget free winks and
emoticons.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/157562755/direct/01/

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 25 09:47:22 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:47:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms
Message-ID: <000601ca0d3f$334f82b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Can anyone tell me if the more conventional wiper arms and blades from the BJ8
will fit the windscreens on the roadsters or do they foul out on the frame
etc.

I would like to be able to purchase future blades over the counter like you
can for the BJ8.  The early style arms that I purchased from Moss look sooo
cheap so I don't even want to go down that road unless I have too.  I would
like to stay away from the "hook ended" arm if possible.

Thanks,  Mark

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 10:48:39 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 09:48:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] su pump article
Message-ID: <173126440907250948p7e5f4f6w3bfe19ac89579894@mail.gmail.com>

I have heard from quite a few folks about the su pump article.
Please reply to me directly @ eyera3 at gmail.com subject article.
That way I can create a single mail list and sent it all out at once.
Thanks.
If you have already replied you are good. This request is for any new emails
for the article.

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul 25 11:19:42 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 19:19:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] su pump article
In-Reply-To: <173126440907250948p7e5f4f6w3bfe19ac89579894@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440907250948p7e5f4f6w3bfe19ac89579894@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A6B3EAE.8090509@chello.nl>

There is an excellent 190 odd pages book describing the workings, 
setting, overhaul etc. of SU-carbs and fuel pumps:
SU CARBURETTERS TUNING TIPS and TECHNIQUES (also covers all SU fuel 
pumps) by G.R. Wade.
It is well written with lots of clear drawings. It also features jet and 
needle charts.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


I Erbs schreef:
> I have heard from quite a few folks about the su pump article.
> Please reply to me directly @ eyera3 at gmail.com subject article.
> That way I can create a single mail list and sent it all out at once.
> Thanks.
> If you have already replied you are good. This request is for any new emails
> for the article.
>
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.29/2261 - Release Date: 07/25/09 05:58:00

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Sat Jul 25 11:22:04 2009
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 12:22:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090725172206.1454853BF2C@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net>

I am building a spare 3000 motor. Needed a damper. Bought a junk damper on
ebay. Sent it to the "Damperdoctor". Came back rebuilt and looking fine. I
think it was about $150. I had it balanced at my machine shop. Ready to go.

Herb Miller
1962 BT7 tricarb
1967 BJ8  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Marvin James
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 9:03 PM
To: Don Day
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer

I've never used these guys myself but I have read good things about them.
They don't list Austin Healey but I understand they can rebuild yours. They
do list the very rare Austin Martin.
http://www.damperdoctor.com/

Marv J

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:28 AM, Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in
> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber
> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the
> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it
> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>
>     Thanks Don
>     67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as hgmiller3 at qwest.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sat Jul 25 11:49:56 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 13:49:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] King Dick Jack Handle.
Message-ID: <002701ca0d50$52ec40c0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

Charlie,

Healeys used mostly thin-base Shelley jacks, but the middle-period 4-cylinders
used the heavy-base King Dick B1077 for a while.  These had a 3/4" socket for
the drive gear.  Healey jacks had "L" shaped saddles, while MG jacks had
curved ones.

The jack handle is not quite so simple.  It was assembled from three pieces:
Two parts made from 1/2"square rod and one from 3/8"round bar.

The first square bar (15") had one end that was "swollen up" in a furnace into
an onion-shaped 3/4"knob, incorporating a spring-loaded ball bearing to plug
into the jack.  The other end had a 2.25" long connector sleeve held onto the
rod by two punch marks.  Also there were two holes in the sleeve for the
second rod's ball bearing to lock into.

The second square bar (14") plugged into this connector sleeve with a ball
bearing.  The other end of this bar had its end also "swollen up" like the
first, but it was for a 3/8" diameter hole for the third piece.

The third round bar (12") was inserted into the hole halfway to act as a 90
degree lever to turn the whole works.

The Shelley jacks used on most roadster Healeys had a 1/2" socket for the
drive gear, so the first handle piece didn't need the "swelling up" of the end
to fit the socket.

The last 3000's and convertibles of course used the red cone-shaped pot jacks
which only needed a 1/2" x 18" round bar to operate.

Have pictures if you want.

Peter

From wmseverin at charter.net  Sat Jul 25 11:55:10 2009
From: wmseverin at charter.net (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 12:55:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <20090725172206.1454853BF2C@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net>
References: <cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090725172206.1454853BF2C@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net>
Message-ID: <007901ca0d51$0e0f8290$2a2e87b0$@net>

Damper Doctor is excellent. I've had him do about a dozen Sprite race motor
dampers over the years for myself & friends.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herbert Miller
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 12:22 PM
> To: 'Marvin James'; 'Don Day'
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
> 
> I am building a spare 3000 motor. Needed a damper. Bought a junk damper
> on
> ebay. Sent it to the "Damperdoctor". Came back rebuilt and looking
> fine. I
> think it was about $150. I had it balanced at my machine shop. Ready to
> go.
> 
> Herb Miller
> 1962 BT7 tricarb
> 1967 BJ8

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Jul 25 12:04:02 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:04:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
In-Reply-To: <20090725011202.7DF8C18764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20090724.133534.26631.1@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<20090725011202.7DF8C18764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W24A18496F470E5AF778694A5160@phx.gbl>

Yeah, before investing in a tow dolly I would check out the coil and ignition
system. The coil is prone to a failure mode that resembles the symptoms you
describe. They will sometimes develop an open in the windings that only occurs
when the coil heats up in use.
Bill Lawrence

> From: schauss at worldnet.att.net
> To: kaynmike.bham at juno.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:11:53 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
>
> Ignition coil?
>
> - Peter Schauss
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com
>> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 4:36 PM
>> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Sprite fuel snafu
>>
>> One of you guys asked the obvious question--how did I know if it was,
>> indeed,
>> fuel at all? Truth? I have no idea! I'm open to whatever might make this
>> happen.  Mike Gougeom 56BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Jul 25 12:07:04 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:07:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>
References: <553073.33701.qm@web53809.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W27D30086BC99AD1128E249A5160@phx.gbl>

As long as they don't call it an Aston Holey...

> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:03:02 -0700
> From: britcrs at gmail.com
> To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
>
> I've never used these guys myself but I have read good things about them.
> They don't list Austin Healey but I understand they can rebuild yours. They
> do list the very rare Austin Martin.
> http://www.damperdoctor.com/
>
> Marv J
>
> On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:28 AM, Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it back in
>> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The rubber
>> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question to the
>> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as though it
>> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
>> As always any and all info would be helpful.
>>
>>     Thanks Don
>>     67BJ-8 still under re-construction
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul 25 12:11:42 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:11:42 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
In-Reply-To: <007901ca0d51$0e0f8290$2a2e87b0$@net>
References: <cd33dd3a0907241903wa12151cqdcccd1c845f6ee88@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090725172206.1454853BF2C@mpls-qmqp-02.inet.qwest.net>
	<007901ca0d51$0e0f8290$2a2e87b0$@net>
Message-ID: <4A6B4ADE.3090108@chello.nl>

Does anyone know the proper Shore hardness of the rubber used?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Wm. Severin Thompson schreef:
> Damper Doctor is excellent. I've had him do about a dozen Sprite race motor
> dampers over the years for myself & friends.
>
>   
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herbert Miller
>> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 12:22 PM
>> To: 'Marvin James'; 'Don Day'
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
>>
>> I am building a spare 3000 motor. Needed a damper. Bought a junk damper
>> on
>> ebay. Sent it to the "Damperdoctor". Came back rebuilt and looking
>> fine. I
>> think it was about $150. I had it balanced at my machine shop. Ready to
>> go.
>>
>> Herb Miller
>> 1962 BT7 tricarb
>> 1967 BJ8
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.29/2261 - Release Date: 07/25/09 05:58:00

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Jul 25 12:27:41 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 14:27:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
Message-ID: <20090725.112842.29366.30960@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>

Or like the attendant at the service station on the Jersey Turnpike said,
"I used to have one of them Austin Harley's once!!".


> As long as they don't call it an Aston Holey...
> 
> > Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:03:02 -0700
> > From: britcrs at gmail.com
> > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
> >
> > I've never used these guys myself but I have read good things 
> about them.
> > They don't list Austin Healey but I understand they can rebuild 
> yours. They
> > do list the very rare Austin Martin.
> > http://www.damperdoctor.com/
> >
> > Marv J
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:28 AM, Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> 
> wrote:
> >
> >> I am getting my 67 BJ-8 motor cleaned up to paint before I put it 
> back in
> >> the car.I noticed the harmonic Balancer looked a little tired.The 
> rubber
> >> looks dried up,it's still all there but it has cracks.My question 
> to the
> >> list is,what damage would be done to leave it alone?It looks as 
> though it
> >> would be a job to remove it and a replacement is around $350.
> >> As always any and all info would be helpful.
> >>
> >>     Thanks Don
> >>     67BJ-8 still under re-construction
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Click for an affordable Health Insurance plan that fits your needs.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIn7IwuAex6Goh3MGy9d1hSVd1hSygIF7qN4EaHQB7h5H5G6Vp8FS/

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sat Jul 25 05:28:53 2009
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 06:28:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speedo Angle Drive
Message-ID: <68ED56AB-6B3B-4AC3-9D10-19C88B9DCF82@advocateadvisors.com>

I am putting a new angle drive in my BJ8. There is a bolt in the top  
which I presume is for oil. First is this a lub point and second do I  
need to put a drop of oil into a new unit?

Thanks

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul 25 14:03:16 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:03:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Speedo Angle Drive
References: <68ED56AB-6B3B-4AC3-9D10-19C88B9DCF82@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <F3950BEEFA0F43F6AD4DB9DF27023914@LIFEBOOK>

Subject: [Healeys] Speedo Angle Drive


>I am putting a new angle drive in my BJ8. There is a bolt in the top  which 
>I presume is for oil. First is this a lub point and second do I  need to 
>put a drop of oil into a new unit?
>
> Thanks
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8


Hello Price,

The little screw on the body of the speedo drive is indeed filling an oiling 
hole. An old British mechanic back in the early '70's told me that if a 
couple of drops of thin oil went into that screw hole once a year, the unit 
would last virtually forever.

Rich Chrysler

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Jul 25 14:09:05 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:09:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms
References: <000601ca0d3f$334f82b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <AE0C8608FEA3415BB53855E4CBE49BA4@LIFEBOOK>

It's rather ironic that of the very few items I buy from Moss, their wiper 
arms for the roadsters are the ones of my choice because they are very 
accurate to the originals. The "hooked end" design works very well and their 
repro wiper blade refills are accurate, drop right in to the original 
Rainbow" blade assemblies and seem to work well clearing the glass too.
That said, I've been using Rainex lately so the wipers only need to do the 
occasional pass over the glass.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms


> Can anyone tell me if the more conventional wiper arms and blades from the 
> BJ8
> will fit the windscreens on the roadsters or do they foul out on the frame
> etc.
>
> I would like to be able to purchase future blades over the counter like 
> you
> can for the BJ8.  The early style arms that I purchased from Moss look 
> sooo
> cheap so I don't even want to go down that road unless I have too.  I 
> would
> like to stay away from the "hook ended" arm if possible.
>
> Thanks,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sat Jul 25 14:17:58 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:17:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
Message-ID: <000001ca0d65$0a766630$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

Here is an article from the late fifties showing how the Healey's aluminum
shrouds were welded together. It is a visit to the Jensen factory with photos,
and shows the jigs, discusses the welding equipment and the materials used.

,http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html

Peter

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Jul 25 17:01:47 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 19:01:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <000001ca0d65$0a766630$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <000001ca0d65$0a766630$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <003201ca0d7b$e3f82770$abe87650$@com>

You can see the article here of Larry's excellent Healey site.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Svilans
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 4:18 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud

Here is an article from the late fifties showing how the Healey's aluminum
shrouds were welded together. It is a visit to the Jensen factory with
photos,
and shows the jigs, discusses the welding equipment and the materials used.

,http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/jensenweld.html

Peter
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 25 18:10:14 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:10:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms
References: <000601ca0d3f$334f82b0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<AE0C8608FEA3415BB53855E4CBE49BA4@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <000601ca0d85$73918ad0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Thanks for the feedback Rich.   I have  Clear-Flex blades that were on my 
car when I bought it.
I may switch over the refill rubber from the Moss  Taiwan units to the 
Clear-flex.

Moss uses a rivet at each end to keep the refill from sliding out rather 
than a clip arrangement.  The long part of the rivet shows and not the flat 
side.   It looks ridiculous.    The Moss arms seem to be very close to 
original as you said and should work fine.

Thanks again,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms


> It's rather ironic that of the very few items I buy from Moss, their wiper 
> arms for the roadsters are the ones of my choice because they are very 
> accurate to the originals. The "hooked end" design works very well and 
> their repro wiper blade refills are accurate, drop right in to the 
> original Rainbow" blade assemblies and seem to work well clearing the 
> glass too.
> That said, I've been using Rainex lately so the wipers only need to do the 
> occasional pass over the glass.
>
> Rich Chrysler

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 19:53:23 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:53:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W225215F45D5B541FF0AE7AC0160@phx.gbl>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
	<COL106-W225215F45D5B541FF0AE7AC0160@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <751d05480907251853g3972fea7h321c747c4b21d23f@mail.gmail.com>

Richard,

I believe that the shroud alloy is closer to 1100 and not 3300.   I have
always used pieces of old shrouds for welding so that the weld material is
as close to the original as possible.

Any comments from the list?  I believe this has been discussed ad nauseum in
the past on the list.

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 5:42 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>wrote:

> The shroud alloy is 3003.  Richard Mayor
>
> > From: vern at srvinet.com
> > To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:58:07 -0700
> > Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
> >
> > Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and
> > have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the
> > alumium alloy. Would be great to know
> > what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.
> > The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing
> > references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think
> > it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better
> > explaination.
> > Vern
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
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> Check it out.
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From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 25 21:13:06 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 03:13:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <751d05480907251853g3972fea7h321c747c4b21d23f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DF6E2BD6BAC74975A2DA6E56385DE594@kitchen>
	<COL106-W225215F45D5B541FF0AE7AC0160@phx.gbl> 
	<751d05480907251853g3972fea7h321c747c4b21d23f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W331C889AE1C45B56833C5FC0170@phx.gbl>

The alloy is 3003, not 3300. And one should not use old shroud material as
welding rod. No discussion!

Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:53:23 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] aluminum shroud
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com
To: mayorrichard at hotmail.com
CC: vern at srvinet.com; healeys at autox.team.net

Richard,

I believe that the shroud alloy is closer to 1100 and not 3300.   I have
always used pieces of old shrouds for welding so that the weld material is as
close to the original as possible.

Any comments from the list?  I believe this has been discussed ad nauseum in
the past on the list.


Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 5:42 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
wrote:

The shroud alloy is 3003.  Richard Mayor



> From: vern at srvinet.com

> To: Healeys at autox.team.net

> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 06:58:07 -0700

> Subject: [Healeys] aluminum shroud

>

> Hi;  I am just starting work on my Healey, 57 BN4, and

> have a lot of work to do on the aluminum shrouds,  Can anyone tell me the

> alumium alloy. Would be great to know

> what the melting temp is before I start to experiment.

> The other question is, What is the scuttle  I keep seeing

> references to the scuttle and from Websters can only think

> it must be the cocpit opening, but would appreciate a better

> explaination.

> Vern

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

>

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

>

> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com

>

> http://www.team.net/archive



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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 25 22:23:50 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 21:23:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] windshield wiper article
Message-ID: <854922.38392.qm@web111408.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

    Kudos to Roger Moment for a great article in "Austin Healey Magazine" on
windshield wiper mechanism and rebuild.  This one is going in the permanent
file.  It's all you ever need to know.  Good job, thanks.
    Now how about a similar article on rebuilding the horns.
Regards
Ray Juncal

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 25 23:07:31 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 22:07:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A-pillar face plate
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090725215604.01fcc628@pop.att.yahoo.com>

I need to remove and replace the A-pillar face plate; just the upper portion.

The replacement part tucks up under the inner scuttle top panel. What 
should I do to bend the scuttle flange up then back down again? I 
think I need to heat it, but I am not sure of the heating and cooling 
process so as to not damage the metal.

I check the archives and around the Internet but did not find what I needed.

Help from the list would be very much appreciated.

Thank you,
John

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Sun Jul 26 00:54:56 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:54:56 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms
Message-ID: <1DB072F14A284FA2A21545DD513ECDB8@tm>

Rich,

 

Is Moss also good for the 100 arms and wipers?

 

Best, Tadek

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Sun Jul 26 03:07:38 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:07:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
Message-ID: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>

http://tinyurl.com/l8u442

Either it's a fake or the recession is getting big..

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul 26 04:38:21 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (Robert Duquette)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 06:38:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
In-Reply-To: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
References: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP762EF3661ADFF00421FD1FB8170@phx.gbl>

I don't know.  The car looks pretty good from the top, but underneath looks
like a project?

I think, with no real experience, that the price is about right for the car.
I would be interested to hear other people's opinions, as I have convinced
myself that I am in the market for a 100/4.

He says he has too many cars AND a wife ... and he choosing to sell the car?
;)

RD
Ottawa ON Canada


-----Original Message-----
From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz

http://tinyurl.com/l8u442

Either it's a fake or the recession is getting big..

From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 26 06:09:32 2009
From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 05:09:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
Message-ID: <692464.88396.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Sorry I should have made it clear that the pumps are NAPA pumps. I
appreciate all the advice and can use the SU information since I have a
couple of old ones that need rebuilding. I have now hooked the NAPA
pumps in series to start over so to speak and cut down on the number of
possible connections. I'll be back if that doesn't work. The list is, and
always has been great for us with little or no fixit skills. 
JIm Brown

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul 26 06:21:33 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:21:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] A-pillar face plate
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090725215604.01fcc628@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <817CB95574254AAA8DA93A1FF80EC6A7@LIFEBOOK>

John,

What series Healey?

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 1:07 AM
Subject: [Healeys] A-pillar face plate


>I need to remove and replace the A-pillar face plate; just the upper 
>portion.
>
> The replacement part tucks up under the inner scuttle top panel. What 
> should I do to bend the scuttle flange up then back down again? I think I 
> need to heat it, but I am not sure of the heating and cooling process so 
> as to not damage the metal.
>
> I check the archives and around the Internet but did not find what I 
> needed.
>
> Help from the list would be very much appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul 26 06:25:28 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:25:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms
References: <1DB072F14A284FA2A21545DD513ECDB8@tm>
Message-ID: <33B29C7DC68641B1BDEF65E99650ED15@LIFEBOOK>

Tadek, et al,

Yes, but do keep in mind I'm not using their "no name" blade assembly with the
over sized keeper pins. I just use their arms and the blade refills. I search
out to find original "Rainbow" blade assemblies.

Rich
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
  To: healeys at autox.team.net ; 'Rich C'
  Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 2:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Blades and arms


  Rich,



  Is Moss also good for the 100 arms and wipers?



  Best, Tadek

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Jul 26 06:51:42 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
References: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
	<BLU0-SMTP762EF3661ADFF00421FD1FB8170@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50B163A64E8043CBB1DC26A1DED2F98E@LIFEBOOK>

I looked this car over in the pictures very carefully. Should be okay as a 
driver but needs just about a full restoration to be really good, hence the 
price.
He certainly screwed up on stating his chassis number. I've figured it out 
due to his stating engine number, batch and body numbers, and date of build, 
so it was easy to place it in a consistent grouping on the Hundred Registry. 
He states the chassis number as being BN146162314. I'm pretty sure that 
should read BN1L 152314.

Rich Chrysler
North American Hundred Registrar



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Duquette" <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?


>I don't know.  The car looks pretty good from the top, but underneath looks
> like a project?
>
> I think, with no real experience, that the price is about right for the 
> car.
> I would be interested to hear other people's opinions, as I have convinced
> myself that I am in the market for a 100/4.
>
> He says he has too many cars AND a wife ... and he choosing to sell the 
> car?
> ;)
>
> RD
> Ottawa ON Canada
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
>
> http://tinyurl.com/l8u442
>
> Either it's a fake or the recession is getting big..
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Sun Jul 26 08:04:46 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 07:04:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem
In-Reply-To: <692464.88396.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2304A77D2E4B4DC2B99D120D95BE1163@TRACY>

Jim,

I have run twin NAPA (faucet) pumps in series for a few years now.  I ran a
few wires in a heavy sheath from the rear wheel well to under dash and use a
on-off-on switch hidden under dash to switch from pump to pump or off.

Put a plastic or metal can filter (non-glass) before the pumps.  I mount
then back to back and use standoffs.

The ones in there now are the plastic bodied pumps but have also used the
older metal box ones (louder).

All this assumes no banjo fittings.  Mine were long gone by the time I got
the car.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jim brown
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 5:10 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] fuel problem

Sorry I should have made it clear that the pumps are NAPA pumps. I
appreciate all the advice and can use the SU information since I have a
couple of old ones that need rebuilding. I have now hooked the NAPA
pumps in series to start over so to speak and cut down on the number of
possible connections. I'll be back if that doesn't work. The list is, and
always has been great for us with little or no fixit skills.
JIm Brown
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 08:33:26 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 07:33:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
In-Reply-To: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
References: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
Message-ID: <4A6C6936.4050300@comcast.net>

Seems like a lot of grease AND rust underneath for "10,411" miles.

I think his answer to a question about that is a bit evasive ("surface rust").


bs



Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
> http://tinyurl.com/l8u442
> 
> Either it's a fake or the recession is getting big..
> _______________________________________________

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 26 09:38:46 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:38:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies???
References: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
	<4A6C6936.4050300@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <439CF3EE3F21408C94F17E8DDCD2BC0E@lyon1>

What's happened to our Friday Funnies???

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 26 10:16:48 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:16:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies???.........the economy?
Message-ID: <244115572.2633662.1248625008118.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>


From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 26 10:39:21 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 12:39:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies???
Message-ID: <20090726.094007.13510.32237@mailpop04.dca.untd.com>

PC............................
 
> What's happened to our Friday Funnies???
> 
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
> 
> '59 BN7
> _______________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
Get your dream car or truck. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLa8vWBkiy7Ss6o1sB3fB5oNvQyv1aI1Ztebggo5GLCxmr1MIjmLW/

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Jul 26 10:49:10 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:49:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?harmonic_balancer?=
Message-ID: <20090726164910.28543.qmail@server278.com>

a few years ago one of our club members bj8 had the harmonic balancer, the later type, self destruct at an event. i was able to determine that the outer ring had come loose and we pried it back on and he limped on home.  the damper was sent to the damper doctor in redding california and he did a rebuild on it for about 250 bucks.    working fine so far.  might check with him.     hjim

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 26 12:46:57 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:46:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] A-pillar face plate
In-Reply-To: <817CB95574254AAA8DA93A1FF80EC6A7@LIFEBOOK>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090725215604.01fcc628@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<817CB95574254AAA8DA93A1FF80EC6A7@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090726114621.02020f78@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Rich,

MKII 3000 - BT7

John

At 08:21 AM 7/26/2009 -0400, Rich C wrote:
>John,
>
>What series Healey?
>
>Rich Chrysler
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 1:07 AM
>Subject: [Healeys] A-pillar face plate
>
>
>>I need to remove and replace the A-pillar face plate; just the upper portion.

From mkgoodman at att.net  Sun Jul 26 14:23:56 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:23:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Rebuilding
Message-ID: <000001ca0e2f$021c6eb0$06554c10$@net>

Dear Jim,

 

I had my pump rebuilt by David Dubois a few years ago.  It was his old
design and now he uses an optical method.  He only rebuilds pumps from
October to June, but he rebuilds them to last a long time with no
maintenance.  Here is his website and I highly recommend him.  His new
optical circuit will work for many years as there are no points to wear out
or have carbon buildup.  

 

http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

 

Mark Goodman

66 BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Jul 26 15:15:16 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:15:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] for sale-NOS laygear AEC3359, for early 3000 sideshift,
 $485  includes shipping.  reply off list.  jerry wall
Message-ID: <575498772.2048582.1248642916184.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>


From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Jul 26 17:17:43 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 18:17:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <000001ca0e2f$021c6eb0$06554c10$@net>
References: <000001ca0e2f$021c6eb0$06554c10$@net>
Message-ID: <C0F7E9597A9446F7BCA97F7EBB4C627D@GregPC>

I will second the recommendation of Dave Dubois, he did not rebuild me pump 
for me, but he walked me through my rebuild and provided a small electrical 
part (whose name escapes me, but which he characterized as an upgrade) free, 
good guy and very knowledgable about SU pumps.

Greg Lemon

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sun Jul 26 18:21:44 2009
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:21:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
Message-ID: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>

At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that  
told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled  
the speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle drive  
and the male part into the od was broken.

Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the repaired speedo was  
returned I installed it along with a new angle drive. The cable was  
not damaged so I did not install the new one. Put the car back  
together and 32 miles later the speedo goes flat.

I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I drove. I pulled  
the cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I put a drill on the  
cable while connected to the speedo and ran it up to 50 mph. When I  
tried to turn the cable by hand it was difficult but it did turn. I  
suspect the angle drive is again broken.

OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?  
Could the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive have failed/been  
faulty?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 18:34:46 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:34:46 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Your Smile For The Day
Message-ID: <cd0.4653ac9d.379e5026@aol.com>

Hi  Douglas-
 
I was not going to send any "Friday  Funnies" but since you seem to have 
felt left out I have made an exception and I  am sending an Extremely Early 
"Friday Funnies." 
Hope you enjoy  it. 
 
 
THE MEANING OF A  HINDU FOREHEAD   DOT 

For centuries, Hindu women have  worn a dot (Bindi)
on their foreheads.

Most of us have naively thought  this was connected
with tradition or religion, but the Indian Embassy  in
Washington, D.C. has recently revealed the true story.
When a Hindu  woman gets married, she brings a dowry
into the union. On her wedding night,  the husband
scratches off the dot to see whether he's won a
convenience  store, a gas station, a donut shop, a
taxi cab or a motel in America  ...  

If nothing is there he must remain in India to answer  telephones and
provide us with technical  support.

So  now you  know!!!




**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 26 18:37:55 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 17:37:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emereson / Healey Westland
Message-ID: <785829.45673.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

    Very nice series of articles in "Sports & Exotic Car" about Bill's
Westland  and Donald and Geoff's drive in it across America in 1948.
    Bill the photo in upper right corner, page 27, is taken at Malaga Cove
Plaza, Palos Verdes Estates, CA.  Just south of Los Angeles.  The statue of
Neptune and the Plaza remain very much as they were then.  Thought you might
want to add this info to your photo collection.
Regards
Ray Juncal

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 19:01:11 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 18:01:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <4A6CFC57.30207@comcast.net>

Price,

Can only speculate, but FWIW (I've been working on mine a lot lately):

- the internal workings of a speedometer are fragile.  I really doubt the speedo 
'froze' and broke the angle drive (there's not much in there to freeze up).  The 
internals of the speedo would have been destroyed beyond repair first (and the 
cable would still probably turn).  Who did your speedo rebuild?  Did they report 
to you what they found?
- if the cable doesn't turn when you drive the problem is likely in the angle 
drive (only other thing it could be is a broken cable)
- since you've had two angle drives fail, I would suspect the mechanism that 
drives the angle drive (not sure, but believe it's a worm gear on the O/D output 
shaft--anyone familiar with this?)


Bob



R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that 
> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled the 
> speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle drive and 
> the male part into the od was broken.
> 
> Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the repaired speedo was 
> returned I installed it along with a new angle drive. The cable was not 
> damaged so I did not install the new one. Put the car back together and 
> 32 miles later the speedo goes flat.
> 
> I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I drove. I pulled the 
> cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I put a drill on the cable 
> while connected to the speedo and ran it up to 50 mph. When I tried to 
> turn the cable by hand it was difficult but it did turn. I suspect the 
> angle drive is again broken.
> 
> OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn easily? Could 
> the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive have failed/been faulty?
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8



*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 19:09:03 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:09:03 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>

Perhaps the reasons for demise of the Friday Funnies is twofold:
 
1.  They usually weren't very funny, and
2.  They were often attempts at humor told at the expense of some  
population subset whether ethnic, sexual, religious, etc.
 
In any case I have not missed them. 
 
Best--Michael Oritt
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Jul 26 19:20:32 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>

Price,

This is a long shot, but I have had two angle drives fail, apparently,
because I reset the trip counter while the car was moving.

YMMV,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 8:22 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
> 
> 
> OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?
> Could the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive have failed/been
> faulty?
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 26 19:47:33 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:47:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W42FC356A6E249B1E334EEBC8140@phx.gbl>

Price,

There is suppose to be a washer inserted at the angle drive/tranny fitting on
Austin Healeys.  Evidently the short drive is a little too long and is said to
create too much pressure on the angle drive causing premature failure.  You
would think that manufacturers of these products would just produce the
correct part for our application.  The washer came with my new angle drive
along with a BMC product warning regarding the use of the washer.  If you did
use the washer as directed then I don't have any other explanation for the
rapid failure of you drive.  Some of the new speedo cables are too long also
and there is a specific length to cut the cable, which I can't find at the
moment.

George Haywood
'65 bj8


> From: price at advocateadvisors.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:21:44 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
>
> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that
> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled
> the speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle drive
> and the male part into the od was broken.
>
> Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the repaired speedo was
> returned I installed it along with a new angle drive. The cable was
> not damaged so I did not install the new one. Put the car back
> together and 32 miles later the speedo goes flat.
>
> I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I drove. I pulled
> the cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I put a drill on the
> cable while connected to the speedo and ran it up to 50 mph. When I
> tried to turn the cable by hand it was difficult but it did turn. I
> suspect the angle drive is again broken.
>
> OK, what's the cause? Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?
> Could the speedo have failed? Could the angle drive have failed/been
> faulty?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
NEW mobile Hotmail. Optimized for YOUR phone.  Click here.

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sun Jul 26 19:51:12 2009
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:51:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W42FC356A6E249B1E334EEBC8140@phx.gbl>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<SNT110-W42FC356A6E249B1E334EEBC8140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F120C57B-68A0-468E-BFC9-346224D2A0AC@advocateadvisors.com>

Thanks George. I used the washer as recomended.  This is a puzzle.

Price

On Jul 26, 2009, at 8:47 PM, "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>  
wrote:

>
> Price,
>
> There is suppose to be a washer inserted at the angle drive/tranny  
> fitting on Austin Healeys.  Evidently the short drive is a little  
> too long and is said to create too much pressure on the angle drive  
> causing premature failure.  You would think that manufacturers of  
> these products would just produce the correct part for our  
> application.  The washer came with my new angle drive along with a  
> BMC product warning regarding the use of the washer.  If you did use  
> the washer as directed then I don't have any other explanation for  
> the rapid failure of you drive.  Some of the new speedo cables are  
> too long also and there is a specific length to cut the cable, which  
> I can't find at the moment.
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
>
>> From: price at advocateadvisors.com
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:21:44 -0500
>> Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
>>
>> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that
>> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled
>> the speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle  
>> drive
>> and the male part into the od was broken.
>>
>> Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the repaired speedo was
>> returned I installed it along with a new angle drive. The cable was
>> not damaged so I did not install the new one. Put the car back
>> together and 32 miles later the speedo goes flat.
>>
>> I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I drove. I pulled
>> the cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I put a drill on  
>> the
>> cable while connected to the speedo and ran it up to 50 mph. When I
>> tried to turn the cable by hand it was difficult but it did turn. I
>> suspect the angle drive is again broken.
>>
>> OK, what's the cause? Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?
>> Could the speedo have failed? Could the angle drive have failed/been
>> faulty?
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8
> _________________________________________________________________
> NEW mobile Hotmail. Optimized for YOUR phone.  Click here.
> http://windowslive.com/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_CS_MB_new_hotmail_072009

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Jul 26 19:59:34 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 01:59:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP762EF3661ADFF00421FD1FB8170@phx.gbl>
References: <8ADD2362A53D4206ADC423FC5B5E60E1@tm>
	<BLU0-SMTP762EF3661ADFF00421FD1FB8170@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W1145576E4AB15E3F770F3FA5140@phx.gbl>

I agree with your assessment. A lot of work to do to make it a #1 car. The
potential is there though.
Bill Lawrence

> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 06:38:21 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN1 on ebay?
>
> I don't know.  The car looks pretty good from the top, but underneath looks
> like a project?
>
> I think, with no real experience, that the price is about right for the
car.
> I would be interested to hear other people's opinions, as I have convinced
> myself that I am in the market for a 100/4.
>
> He says he has too many cars AND a wife ... and he choosing to sell the
car?
> ;)
>
> RD
> Ottawa ON Canada
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
>
> http://tinyurl.com/l8u442
>
> Either it's a fake or the recession is getting big..
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Jul 26 19:59:27 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:59:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ED02ACD123FC482FA8CD9DE98ACCA171@michael>

Actually it has been my experience that angle drive failure can often be
traced to a tight or seized component in the speedometer itself, frequently
either the odometer or trip meter tumblers.
Inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the cable socket and spinning
it anticlockwise (as I recall) to simulate forward movement of the car will
often reveal that the drive tightens up after a short period of operation.

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: July 26, 2009 9:21 PM
To: 'R. Price Lindsay'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Price,

This is a long shot, but I have had two angle drives fail, apparently,
because I reset the trip counter while the car was moving.

YMMV,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 8:22 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
> 
> 
> OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?
> Could the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive have failed/been
> faulty?
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 20:14:52 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:14:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <ED02ACD123FC482FA8CD9DE98ACCA171@michael>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>
	<ED02ACD123FC482FA8CD9DE98ACCA171@michael>
Message-ID: <4A6D0D9C.1080603@comcast.net>

I stand (sit) corrected.  I've been into my speedo a lot lately, and it's hard 
to believe the little bits inside could freeze up a cable and break the angle 
drive (without blowing the speedo apart).  The angle drive must be REALLY fragile.


Bob



Michael Salter wrote:
> Actually it has been my experience that angle drive failure can often be
> traced to a tight or seized component in the speedometer itself, frequently
> either the odometer or trip meter tumblers.
> Inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the cable socket and spinning
> it anticlockwise (as I recall) to simulate forward movement of the car will
> often reveal that the drive tightens up after a short period of operation.
> 
> Michael Salter
> 100 (1953) #174
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 26 20:34:49 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 22:34:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] angle drive
Message-ID: <BAY124-W202D4C29DFE07570440923D4140@phx.gbl>

I had one do the same thing.  Try drilling a small hole in the and removing
the "freeze plug" type cap and see if the press fit is turning under pressure.
I tack welded the square cable to the gear and it worked great! Replace the
cap and seal it with caulk or weld the hole shut.  Shawn Miller
_________________________________________________________________
NEW mobile Hotmail. Optimized for YOUR phone.  Click here.
http://windowslive.com/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_CS_MB_new_hotmail_072009

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Jul 26 20:41:19 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 22:41:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250907250054o74fd3c4eq2f0fdf1e502478d4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DFAD0169-447E-4290-A272-B3C368AA7C0B@mac.com>
	<4e23c7250907240210g2337043bw15762f70262b83df@mail.gmail.com>
	<xYjU+nCm7caKFwk3@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<4e23c7250907250054o74fd3c4eq2f0fdf1e502478d4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06200700c692c3343182@[192.168.0.102]>

Funny though, the British not only built, but invented television!
First broadcast from Alexandra palace in the 30's!
Stephen, BJ8

>John,
>First of all my apologies for a remark which apparently offends you - that
>was not my intention. I just wanted to be funny. On the other hand my
>childish remark is not only based on my own experience - it is a well known
>fact that British engines, both car engines and motorbike engines, have a
>tendency to leak oil. I am not the only one who is of that opinion, as a
>matter of fact there are a large number of jokes floating around on this
>subject, like: "why have the British never built TV sets? Because they can't
>leak oil".
>Kind regards from a guy who has been selling and working with British
>equipment all his working life.
>Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
>1964 BJ8 29432

From frankyow_99 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 26 20:51:29 2009
From: frankyow_99 at yahoo.com (frank yow)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:51:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Message-ID: <863493.98702.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Was just watching PBS Masterpiece Mystery, Miss Marple, lovely red 100 6, or early 3000, several appearances. Frank Yow, 1961 BT7

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun Jul 26 20:57:31 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:57:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>
	<ED02ACD123FC482FA8CD9DE98ACCA171@michael>
Message-ID: <F71A5528E37F48AB9F1D91D1C4BA666B@computer>

Gents:

Further to this:  I'll recount the experience of a friend of mine with his 
BJ8 a few years ago.  This is with a newly refurbished instrument from a 
reliable source in the UK.

Speedo stopped working after some time in the car.  Diagnosis determined 
that speedo head / cable seemed to be in good shape.  Turned out that the 
short cable end of the angle drive was toast.  New angle drive installed, 
everything worked - for a short while.

Same exercise, same fix, another new angle drive.  This happened yet again 
shortly thereafter.

It was at this point that by buddy remembered / confessed that the speedo / 
odo was not correctly recording the distance - it was erratic - something 
like 50% of the mileage actually recording.

After yet another angle drive was destroyed, we finally took the speedo head 
out of the car and opened it up.  A little fiddling and eureka!  One of the 
springs governing the lever that ratchets the set of wheels forward was 
completely missing.  This caused the little lever to miss the tooth on the 
wheel and not advance the dials on occasion.  When we attempted to reverse 
the cable, the lever jammed solid - enough to destroy the weakest component 
in the system - the angle drive's short cable.  A spring from another speedo 
(actually from an MGB) solved the problem permanently.  Apparently when the 
car was put in reverse to back up, the loose lever jammed on occasion, and 
poof went the angle drive.

As Michael says, resistance in the instrument itself doesn't have to be 
great to smoke the angle drive - we proved it.  Anyone want about 6 
repairable angle drives?

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Peter Schauss'" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>; "'R. Price Lindsay'" 
<price at advocateadvisors.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8


Actually it has been my experience that angle drive failure can often be
traced to a tight or seized component in the speedometer itself, frequently
either the odometer or trip meter tumblers.
Inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the cable socket and spinning
it anticlockwise (as I recall) to simulate forward movement of the car will
often reveal that the drive tightens up after a short period of operation.

Michael Salter

From mkgoodman at att.net  Sun Jul 26 21:11:16 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 23:11:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18627.1248659996.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18627.1248659996.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001ca0e67$e996b970$bcc42c50$@net>

I as a former contributor to Friday Funnies and finally seeing the light.  I
agree whole heartedly with Michael.  

This is a site for to help us keep our Healeys operational and to share our
Healey experiences and should remain that way.

Mark
66BJ8 35503
www.austinhealeyessence.com

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Sun Jul 26 21:27:46 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:27:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] air compressor install
In-Reply-To: <a06200700c692c3343182@[192.168.0.102]>
Message-ID: <C6926CC2.36E6%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

Perhaps, not quite that cut and dried.

Many hands stirred the TV pot.

http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae408.cfm


Stephen Hutchingss.hutchings at rogers.com

> Funny though, the British not only built, but invented television!
> First broadcast from Alexandra palace in the 30's!
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> John,
>> First of all my apologies for a remark which apparently offends you - that
>> was not my intention. I just wanted to be funny. On the other hand my
>> childish remark is not only based on my own experience - it is a well known
>> fact that British engines, both car engines and motorbike engines, have a
>> tendency to leak oil. I am not the only one who is of that opinion, as a
>> matter of fact there are a large number of jokes floating around on this
>> subject, like: "why have the British never built TV sets? Because they can't
>> leak oil".
>> Kind regards from a guy who has been selling and working with British
>> equipment all his working life.
>> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
>> 1964 BJ8 29432
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 21:38:53 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 11:38:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <000001ca0e67$e996b970$bcc42c50$@net>
References: <mailman.18627.1248659996.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<000001ca0e67$e996b970$bcc42c50$@net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907262038i4665fcbeg8165d951482d6cea@mail.gmail.com>

Mark -

Finally, thank you for standing up for me.  I am very sensitive to when
people make fun of my Lucas electrical system.  I find the Lucas smoke jokes
to be downright discriminatory.  I've had it with the constant comparison to
Teutonic/Asiatic superiority.

I think I'll drown my sorrows in some of the finest warm beer available.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> I as a former contributor to Friday Funnies and finally seeing the light.
>  I
> agree whole heartedly with Michael.
>
> This is a site for to help us keep our Healeys operational and to share our
> Healey experiences and should remain that way.
>
> Mark
> 66BJ8 35503
> www.austinhealeyessence.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 26 22:04:35 2009
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (rudedoggg at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 23:04:35 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting--Des Moines
Message-ID: <29917796.1248667475928.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Anybody on the list driving a six-cylinder roadster westbound on I-80 (I-235?) Saturday night?  With a young kid--young smiling kid--in the right seat?

John Rued

From stevemickelson at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 26 22:04:40 2009
From: stevemickelson at sbcglobal.net (Steven Mickelson)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:04:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907262038i4665fcbeg8165d951482d6cea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.18627.1248659996.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<000001ca0e67$e996b970$bcc42c50$@net>
	<ff59076c0907262038i4665fcbeg8165d951482d6cea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <926200.27061.qm@web82508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All.

It is not PC to make fun of listers that have escaping Lucas smoke.
Maybe we should move to Monday Funnies so folks would have the weekend to
consider their PC contributions?

Maybe there are other non-Lucas-smoke
contributions that should be considered?

Think we'd get down to far fewer,
but PC fun stuff.  Maybe none, as recent, since PC is hard to come by! 

Steve
BN1L-156610, "Brutus", the Garage King




________________________________
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>

Mark -

Finally, thank you for
standing up for me.  I am very sensitive to when
people make fun of my Lucas
electrical system.  I find the Lucas smoke jokes
to be downright
discriminatory.  I've had it with the constant comparison to
Teutonic/Asiatic
superiority.

I think I'll drown my sorrows in some of the finest warm beer
available.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 11:11 AM,
Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> I as a former contributor to Friday
Funnies and finally seeing the light.
>  I
> agree whole heartedly with
Michael.
>
> This is a site for to help us keep our Healeys operational and to
share our
> Healey experiences and should remain that way.
>
> Mark
> 66BJ8
35503
> www.austinhealeyessence.com

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Jul 26 22:29:57 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 04:29:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907262038i4665fcbeg8165d951482d6cea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.18627.1248659996.20693.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<000001ca0e67$e996b970$bcc42c50$@net> 
	<ff59076c0907262038i4665fcbeg8165d951482d6cea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W2857ED4B73A8FEB359D937A5140@phx.gbl>

mmmmm... beer...

> Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 11:38:53 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
> To: mkgoodman at att.net
> CC: Awgertoo at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
> Mark -
>
> Finally, thank you for standing up for me.  I am very sensitive to when
> people make fun of my Lucas electrical system.  I find the Lucas smoke
jokes
> to be downright discriminatory.  I've had it with the constant comparison
to
> Teutonic/Asiatic superiority.
>
> I think I'll drown my sorrows in some of the finest warm beer available.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:
>
> > I as a former contributor to Friday Funnies and finally seeing the light.
> >  I
> > agree whole heartedly with Michael.
> >
> > This is a site for to help us keep our Healeys operational and to share
our
> > Healey experiences and should remain that way.
> >
> > Mark
> > 66BJ8 35503
> > www.austinhealeyessence.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jul 27 04:57:57 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:57:57 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>
References: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <14B3179E891A4C22BCCF30A9AC2B55BD@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Being a member of an ethnic minority (Australian born named Bruce) I take
exception to the very unfunny jokes about all my friends with the same name.

Hoo Roo

Bruce Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com
Sent: Monday, 27 July 2009 11:09 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies

Perhaps the reasons for demise of the Friday Funnies is twofold:
 
1.  They usually weren't very funny, and
2.  They were often attempts at humor told at the expense of some  
population subset whether ethnic, sexual, religious, etc.
 
In any case I have not missed them. 
 
Best--Michael Oritt

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 27 05:34:16 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 06:34:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting--Des Moines................. what
 colour?
Message-ID: <1670599744.1773168.1248694456410.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>

/AQpJAj: Permission denied

From isgraham at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 05:38:28 2009
From: isgraham at yahoo.com (scott@scottjgraham.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 04:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE
Message-ID: <640793.20707.qm@web110615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi all
 
Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last minute check to see if
there is a simple solution out there for a throttle pedal that allows heel toe
changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the headlight dipper
switch.  Any recommendations?
 
Thanks
 
Scott

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jul 27 05:58:26 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 6:58:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <926200.27061.qm@web82508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090727065826.HNZKD.151006.root@ispmxfep15-z02>

FWIW, a few weeks ago, while travelling through beautiful central Va in my E-Type, I let a LOT of smoke out.  The alternator shorted, caught fire and melted all of the alternator harness wires.  Smoke pouring out of the bonnet and dash.

Grabbed the fire extinguisher and put it out.  Thank God for fire extinguishers!

AAA took my to Warrenton to a place called Waterloo Motors Imported Car Service---and yes--I "met" my Waterloo there.  Anyone contemplating using this facility should contact me before you do.

On the E, I had to add a new alternator harness and ammeter.  Then the lights wouldn't work and it took me two days of pulling things off the car to find out why and fix.

Wouldn't have happened had I been driving the Healey!!:):)
---- Steven Mickelson <stevemickelson at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> All.
> 
> It is not PC to make fun of listers that have escaping Lucas smoke.
> Maybe we should move to Monday Funnies so folks would have the weekend to
> consider their PC contributions?
> 
> Maybe there are other non-Lucas-smoke
> contributions that should be considered?
> 
> Think we'd get down to far fewer,
> but PC fun stuff.  Maybe none, as recent, since PC is hard to come by! 
> 
> Steve
> BN1L-156610, "Brutus", the Garage King
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> 
> Mark -
> 
> Finally, thank you for
> standing up for me.  I am very sensitive to when
> people make fun of my Lucas
> electrical system.  I find the Lucas smoke jokes
> to be downright
> discriminatory.  I've had it with the constant comparison to
> Teutonic/Asiatic
> superiority.
> 
> I think I'll drown my sorrows in some of the finest warm beer
> available.
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 11:11 AM,
> Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:
> 
> > I as a former contributor to Friday
> Funnies and finally seeing the light.
> >  I
> > agree whole heartedly with
> Michael.
> >
> > This is a site for to help us keep our Healeys operational and to
> share our
> > Healey experiences and should remain that way.
> >
> > Mark
> > 66BJ8
> 35503
> > www.austinhealeyessence.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 06:29:39 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:29:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
In-Reply-To: <863493.98702.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <863493.98702.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A6D9DB3.2050800@comcast.net>

Frank,
I took it to be a 100-6 because the door had an exterior lock on it.  I 
wasn't watching terribly closely and had it muted, so was reading the 
audio.  Why was the driver's door sitting in the rear seat area?
Charlie

frank yow wrote:
> Was just watching PBS Masterpiece Mystery, Miss Marple, lovely red 100 6, or early 3000, several appearances. Frank Yow, 1961 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From dht3000 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 07:03:23 2009
From: dht3000 at comcast.net (dean)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:03:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <20090727065826.HNZKD.151006.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
References: <20090727065826.HNZKD.151006.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
Message-ID: <3A5D47F06CBE415E8524B51911D60ACB@DeanPC>

Tom sorry to hear about your trouble. I live in Warrenton VA. If you had 
your reg. book with you , you could have called me. I have restores Healey's 
as well as E type Jag's. I also have a lift in my garage and would have 
opened it up to you and helped as much as I could. Next time carry the good 
book LOL


Dean

.

> FWIW, a few weeks ago, while travelling through beautiful central Va in my 
> E-Type, I let a LOT of smoke out.  The alternator shorted, caught fire and 
> melted all of the alternator harness wires.  Smoke pouring out of the 
> bonnet and dash.
>
> Grabbed the fire extinguisher and put it out.  Thank God for fire 
> extinguishers!
>
> AAA took my to Warrenton to a place called Waterloo Motors Imported Car 
> Service---and yes--I "met" my Waterloo there.  Anyone contemplating using 
> this facility should contact me before you do.
>
> On the E, I had to add a new alternator harness and ammeter.  Then the 
> lights wouldn't work and it took me two days of pulling things off the car 
> to find out why and fix.

From scthomton at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 07:19:25 2009
From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 06:19:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE
Message-ID: <505873.63723.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com>

Scott,
I don't know about the single best whole package you asked about that is, in
part, dependent on how tall you are and how long are your legs.  That said, I
made a dead pedal to put in place of my dimmer switch and put the "dip" switch
on the dash in place of the OD switch...Jag XKE's had a nice escheon that says
"Headlight Dip" which can replace the OD escheon. I wired the dip switch in
with a relay. I also cut the throttle pedal down almost 2", it's in the same
location with the same swing length, it's just the portion that sticks out
that I cut back.  Then on the brake and clutch I used aluminum spacers to get
the relationship with the throttle that worked best for me.
Here is a link to some pictures of what I've got.  I haven't done a full
project write-up on it but I think you can get the idea. 
http://stevesaustinhealey.com/index.php?option=com_phocagallery&view=category
&id=19:dead-pedal&Itemid=9 
 
I have a 5 speed so I didn't need the OD switch.  If you have the overdrive,
of course, you'd have to find another location on the dash for the dip switch.
 
Cheers,
Steve
 
Oh, I forgot to mention that I have a 5 speed so the OD switch wasn't d
--- On Mon, 7/27/09, scott at scottjgraham.com <isgraham at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: scott at scottjgraham.com <isgraham at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, July 27, 2009, 5:38 AM


Hi all

Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last minute check to see if
there is a simple solution out there for a throttle pedal that allows heel
toe
changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the headlight dipper
switch.  Any recommendations?

Thanks

Scott
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as scthomton at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 07:30:52 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:30:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>
References: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001801ca0ebe$76e402f0$64ac08d0$@net>

I agree completely, Michael.

 Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 8:09 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies

Perhaps the reasons for demise of the Friday Funnies is twofold:
 
1.  They usually weren't very funny, and
2.  They were often attempts at humor told at the expense of some  
population subset whether ethnic, sexual, religious, etc.
 
In any case I have not missed them. 
 
Best--Michael Oritt

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 08:04:15 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:04:15 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
Message-ID: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>

Do you have the spacer/washer installed between the angle drive & the  
overdrive/transmission? See parts book or Moss catalog. It is my understanding  
that this spacer is required to prevent the angle drive from binding when  
it is installed.
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2009 8:04:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
bspidell at comcast.net writes:

R. Price  Lindsay wrote:
> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a  mechanic there that 
> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system  to fail. I pulled the 
> speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also  removed the angle drive and 
> the male part into the od was  broken.
> 
> Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the  repaired speedo was 
> returned I installed it along with a new angle  drive. The cable was not 
> damaged so I did not install the new one.  Put the car back together and 
> 32 miles later the speedo goes  flat.
> 
> I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I  drove. I pulled the 
> cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I  put a drill on the cable 
> while connected to the speedo and ran it up  to 50 mph. When I tried to 
> turn the cable by hand it was difficult  but it did turn. I suspect the 
> angle drive is again broken.
>  
> OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn  easily? Could 
> the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive  have failed/been faulty?
> 
> Price  Lindsay


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 27 08:26:53 2009
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 07:26:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <F71A5528E37F48AB9F1D91D1C4BA666B@computer>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<20090727012041.E6E08187643@autox.team.net>
	<ED02ACD123FC482FA8CD9DE98ACCA171@michael> 
	<F71A5528E37F48AB9F1D91D1C4BA666B@computer>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W1E3A7AB33D792DDD687E1BF140@phx.gbl>

We went thru 2 angle drives and a cable before the third one including a
speedo repair solved the issue...Any form of binding destroys the angle drive
so it is essential the washer at the rear end be used and the cable itself is
run to minimize friction at the speedo end as well...this is a very fragile
gear at the angle drive which seems to be re-engineered

Richard of KY

60 BN7 #440

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 27 08:51:47 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 07:51:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
References: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>

Can anyone suggest a solution/cause to the needle bouncing all over the place
at about 50 mph but not at 70+ or less than 40? It does this often but
sometimes it behaves. The speedo was rebuilt 8K ago. I think it always has
done this. Seems to be accurate according the GPS.
Rich (yea, another Richard) Kahn

> From: Warthodson at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:04:15 -0400
> To: bspidell at comcast.net; price at advocateadvisors.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
>
> Do you have the spacer/washer installed between the angle drive & the
> overdrive/transmission? See parts book or Moss catalog. It is my
understanding
> that this spacer is required to prevent the angle drive from binding when
> it is installed.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> In a message dated 7/26/2009 8:04:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> bspidell at comcast.net writes:
>
> R. Price  Lindsay wrote:
> > At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a  mechanic there that
> > told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system  to fail. I pulled the
> > speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also  removed the angle drive and
> > the male part into the od was  broken.
> >
> > Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the  repaired speedo was
> > returned I installed it along with a new angle  drive. The cable was not
> > damaged so I did not install the new one.  Put the car back together and
> > 32 miles later the speedo goes  flat.
> >
> > I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I  drove. I pulled the
> > cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I  put a drill on the cable
> > while connected to the speedo and ran it up  to 50 mph. When I tried to
> > turn the cable by hand it was difficult  but it did turn. I suspect the
> > angle drive is again broken.
> >
> > OK, what's the cause?  Should the cable in the speedo turn  easily? Could
> > the speedo have failed?  Could the angle drive  have failed/been faulty?
> >
> > Price  Lindsay
>
>
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
> Steps!
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 27 09:02:02 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:02:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Your Smile For The Day
References: <cd0.4653ac9d.379e5026@aol.com>
Message-ID: <71F8877CB96A40C1904F740F210C29D4@lyon1>

THANK  YOU!!

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 09:09:49 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:09:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
References: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
	<BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001f01ca0ecc$498e24d0$dcaa6e70$@net>

Richard,

My speedometer bounces at every speed even after being rebuilt by MOKAN
twice.
Hopefully someone on this list can help us both with this problem.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 9:52 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com; bspidell at comcast.net; price at advocateadvisors.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Can anyone suggest a solution/cause to the needle bouncing all over the
place
at about 50 mph but not at 70+ or less than 40? It does this often but
sometimes it behaves. The speedo was rebuilt 8K ago. I think it always has
done this. Seems to be accurate according the GPS.
Rich (yea, another Richard) Kahn

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Jul 27 11:52:42 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:52:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <001f01ca0ecc$498e24d0$dcaa6e70$@net>
References: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
	<BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
	<001f01ca0ecc$498e24d0$dcaa6e70$@net>
Message-ID: <200907270852491.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

Having rebuilt quite a few angle drives, it is never the gear that's 
at issue, it's the insert in the gear that retains the bit of cable 
that goes into the transmission.  The insert can slip, but more often 
the small section of cable breaks.  Usually caused by some tightness 
"upstream" toward the gauge.

Bouncing is often caused by the cable end going into the speedo being 
too long, and pushing the cone against the cup so that it touches 
every now and again.... the bounce. The jewel bearing will wear a bit 
as a result. At higher speeds, the counter spring is wound tight 
enough to over come the bouncing.

Try inserting a washer or 2 at the gauge end of the cable to space 
the inner cable out of the gauge a little farther. It should help the 
bouncing.  Spacing the angle drive similarly will help its life span as well.

Peter C.

=
At 08:09 AM 7/27/2009, Ron Ray wrote:
>Richard,
>
>My speedometer bounces at every speed even after being rebuilt by MOKAN
>twice.
>Hopefully someone on this list can help us both with this problem.
>
>Ron
>Can anyone suggest a solution/cause to the needle bouncing all over the
>place
>at about 50 mph but not at 70+ or less than 40? It does this often but
>sometimes it behaves. The speedo was rebuilt 8K ago. I think it always has
>done this. Seems to be accurate according the GPS.
>Rich (yea, another Richard) Kahn

From autofarm at cyg.net  Mon Jul 27 10:02:30 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:02:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <97259A0BB9A545E78E1F7109D0D8BD8A@OFFICE>

    The cable in the speedo should turn very easily.  My money is still on 
the speedo being a problem.  The bushing that the magnet shaft goes through 
will seize when it gets warm and it will break the angle drive.  This shaft 
and bushing have to be clean. Remove the angle drive. If the part that goes 
into the transmission is broken off, retrieve it.  Remove the cable from the 
back of the speedo and insert the broken piece from the angle drive, just 
far enough that you can still get hold of it.  Now try turning the speedo 
with your fingers anti-clockwise.  It should turn very easily.  If 
everything checks out OK, then look at the cable.  There should be no frayed 
areas, and if the speedo is hard to turn an older cable will "bulge" and 
bind in the outer sheath causing angle drive failure.  Having rambled on 
enough, my money is, as I said, still on a problem with the speedo.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "R. Price Lindsay" <price at advocateadvisors.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 8:21 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8


> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that
> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled
> the speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle drive
> and the male part into the od was broken.

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 10:29:49 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:29:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <4A6CFC57.30207@comcast.net>
References: <A7B08F3B-7B7B-4939-8BC7-6D00ADAD626D@advocateadvisors.com>
	<4A6CFC57.30207@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090727092812.02001c50@pop.att.yahoo.com>

A frozen speedo bearing can cause angle drive failure.

The angle drive can be rebuilt with a small piece from the inner part 
of an old speedo cable.

John

At 06:01 PM 7/26/2009 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote:
>Price,
>
>Can only speculate, but FWIW (I've been working on mine a lot lately):
>
>- the internal workings of a speedometer are fragile.  I really 
>doubt the speedo 'froze' and broke the angle drive (there's not much 
>in there to freeze up).

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 10:31:48 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:31:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <001f01ca0ecc$498e24d0$dcaa6e70$@net>
References: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
	<BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
	<001f01ca0ecc$498e24d0$dcaa6e70$@net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090727093001.02011b68@pop.att.yahoo.com>

The inner speedo cable is kinked. Pull the cable out of the housing 
and lay it on a table. Then roll it and you should see where the kink 
is when that portion of the cable pops up or makes the cable hop.

You will need to replace the inner cable.

John

At 10:09 AM 7/27/2009 -0500, Ron Ray wrote:
>Richard,
>
>My speedometer bounces at every speed even after being rebuilt by MOKAN
>twice.
>Hopefully someone on this list can help us both with this problem.
>
>Ron
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
>Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 9:52 AM
>To: warthodson at aol.com; bspidell at comcast.net; price at advocateadvisors.com
>Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
>
>Can anyone suggest a solution/cause to the needle bouncing all over the
>place
>at about 50 mph but not at 70+ or less than 40? It does this often but
>sometimes it behaves. The speedo was rebuilt 8K ago. I think it always has
>done this. Seems to be accurate according the GPS.
>Rich (yea, another Richard) Kahn
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 27 10:41:58 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 18:41:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
References: <c77.4e3d8c97.379f0ddf@aol.com>
	<BAY130-W2989F1A6FF0A16153C6E5AA4140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A6DD8D6.1030707@chello.nl>

This is often associated with the speedo cable being routed wrongly i.e. 
not in smooth curves. The cable may also need a good internal clean and 
a smear of clean lithium grease. Not oil. Beware of kinks.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Richard Kahn schreef:
> Can anyone suggest a solution/cause to the needle bouncing all over the place
> at about 50 mph but not at 70+ or less than 40? It does this often but
> sometimes it behaves. The speedo was rebuilt 8K ago. I think it always has
> done this. Seems to be accurate according the GPS.
> Rich (yea, another Richard) Kahn

From healeydriver1 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 11:26:01 2009
From: healeydriver1 at gmail.com (R Phillips)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:26:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
Message-ID: <6ea3ee9e0907271026o5591ebcai8f56780b5edc4d73@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know where I might find a 10 lb radiator cap for a '65 BJ8 and
whether it is advisable to switch from the 7 lb.  Radiator tend to spit some
coolant when stopped.

Ric
'65 BJ8

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 11:51:33 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:51:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <6ea3ee9e0907271026o5591ebcai8f56780b5edc4d73@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6ea3ee9e0907271026o5591ebcai8f56780b5edc4d73@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <230433.49929.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

you can use the overflow kit Advance Auto, etc. are now selling(didn't have
these 20 years ago) with the round piece of rubber to go in the radiator cap(
it will not suck it back without that piece of rubber--make sure it has it).
Use the 5 yr antifreeze 70/30% for 252 degree boilover w/7# cap. Note that
1psi on cap increases boil by 3 degrees. I own a 65BJ8 w/ Air Cond. and it
doesn't boil over.

 



________________________________
From: R Phillips
<healeydriver1 at gmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 27,
2009 1:26:01 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap

Does anyone know where I
might find a 10 lb radiator cap for a '65 BJ8 and
whether it is advisable to
switch from the 7 lb.  Radiator tend to spit some
coolant when stopped.

Ric
'65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

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From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Jul 27 12:51:43 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 11:51:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Anyone have a source for the number 4 cup washers used under the small
flat head screws for upholstery? Number 6 seems popular, but not number
4.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From medlabinc at msn.com  Mon Jul 27 13:06:55 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:06:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Bill Emereson / Healey Westland
Message-ID: <COL109-DS21A8682A51387A67100B99A2140@phx.gbl>

Is this the (Sept) Hemmings article ?

Dick Matson / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Juncal<mailto:healeyray at yahoo.com>
To: List Healey<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 5:37 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emereson / Healey Westland


    Very nice series of articles in "Sports & Exotic Car" about Bill's
Westland  and Donald and Geoff's drive in it across America in 1948.
    Bill the photo in upper right corner, page 27, is taken at Malaga Cove
Plaza, Palos Verdes Estates, CA.  Just south of Los Angeles.  The statue of
Neptune and the Plaza remain very much as they were then.  Thought you might
want to add this info to your photo collection.
Regards
Ray Juncal

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 27 13:15:51 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:15:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <001a01ca0eee$a870f1e0$f952d5a0$@net>

Try Restoration Specialties at:

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

They have an EXTENSIVE catalog of just about every screw, bolt, nut,
fastener, etc. etc. ever made. Specific to your request is the first page of
their washers at:

http://tinyurl.com/lt7o6e

They list a number 4 cup washer.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 2:52 PM
To: Healey list
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source

Anyone have a source for the number 4 cup washers used under the small
flat head screws for upholstery? Number 6 seems popular, but not number
4.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From bighealey at astound.net  Mon Jul 27 14:25:37 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 13:25:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-blade plastic Texas Cooler fan Source
Message-ID: <FA501A9A47DC418081CABF2F460EBE3B@Soderling>

Does anyone know where you can still buy the 6-blade plastic Texas cooler fan?
I don't believe the NTAHC sells it any more.  Moss has stopped selling it
too.

Vrooom vrooom,
John Soderling
   & Erika the Red

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Mon Jul 27 14:41:07 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 06:41:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
In-Reply-To: <4A6D9DB3.2050800@comcast.net>
References: <863493.98702.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A6D9DB3.2050800@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8DA5EF8891C64B3E9DB8C6C815CAA0A9@PeterPC>

That's because one of the main (female) protagonists Frankie Derwent 
"pranged" it (her word) as part of the plot. Not sure why that caused the 
door to fall off though!

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: "frank yow" <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting


> Frank,
> I took it to be a 100-6 because the door had an exterior lock on it.  I
> wasn't watching terribly closely and had it muted, so was reading the
> audio.  Why was the driver's door sitting in the rear seat area?
> Charlie
>
> frank yow wrote:
>> Was just watching PBS Masterpiece Mystery, Miss Marple, lovely red 100 6, 
>> or early 3000, several appearances. Frank Yow, 1961 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name 
> of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Mon Jul 27 15:00:44 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:00:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No car stuff, just lots of stuff!
Message-ID: <8F702743485C47ADA07E6B1829E640B0@universal1>

            www.jwoodandcompany.com/2009/jack_dash/jack_dash.htm

    I know, I know, just take a look!

                                                        CB

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 15:02:55 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:02:55 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 6-blade plastic Texas Cooler fan Source
Message-ID: <d0e.503697c6.379f6fff@aol.com>

The Texas Cooler fan is now available from Moss Mtrs. and from any of your  
Moss distributors. 
I just got one about three weeks ago and it is the proper "yellow " color  
for 6 cylinder Healeys after late (?)  1960.
**************A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgI
D=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 27 15:08:22 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 23:08:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
In-Reply-To: <8DA5EF8891C64B3E9DB8C6C815CAA0A9@PeterPC>
References: <863493.98702.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A6D9DB3.2050800@comcast.net>
	<8DA5EF8891C64B3E9DB8C6C815CAA0A9@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <4A6E1746.4090601@chello.nl>

I am not sure but I think I heard someone mention it is the same or 
similar as from a Lotus Esprit-Eclat-Elite / Jensen Healey. Easy to find 
through Ebay if you have a bit of patience. If you know the PCD of the 4 
bolts I can check.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Peter Linn schreef:
> That's because one of the main (female) protagonists Frankie Derwent 
> "pranged" it (her word) as part of the plot. Not sure why that caused 
> the door to fall off though!
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Baldwin" 
> <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
> To: "frank yow" <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting
>
>
>> Frank,
>> I took it to be a 100-6 because the door had an exterior lock on it.  I
>> wasn't watching terribly closely and had it muted, so was reading the
>> audio.  Why was the driver's door sitting in the rear seat area?
>> Charlie
>>
>> frank yow wrote:
>>> Was just watching PBS Masterpiece Mystery, Miss Marple, lovely red 
>>> 100 6, or early 3000, several appearances. Frank Yow, 1961 BT7
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a 
>> name of mgcharlie.vcf]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.32/2266 - Release Date: 07/27/09 05:58:00

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 15:11:33 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <4a6e1807.0407560a.4517.ffffbc30@mx.google.com>

I would agree totally.

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Ray <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 6:30 AM
To: Awgertoo at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies

I agree completely, Michael.

 Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 8:09 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies

Perhaps the reasons for demise of the Friday Funnies is twofold:

1.  They usually weren't very funny, and
2.  They were often attempts at humor told at the expense of some
population subset whether ethnic, sexual, religious, etc.

In any case I have not missed them.

Best--Michael Oritt
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 15:29:56 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:29:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <776342.52256.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Don't remember the number--it is a cheap kit;<$20., with a plastic
receiver;clear vinyl hose and a round rubber 'washer' to put in the radiator
cap. Is a 'square' receiver, about 1/2 gal. Name on the red cap is
Interdynamics Coolant Return System. I mounted above the brake servo, behind
the back horn, beside the rt vent cool fan; the clear hose replaces the black
overflow hose and is long enough to go about 1/2 down the radiator then over
to the side rail and to the receiver. And it works guys--the radiator stays
"Plumb Full" and you are never embarrassed with the tell-tale wet mark.
________________________________
From: Michael Hartfield
<hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: Richard Dryman <rdryman1 at yahoo.com>
Sent:
Monday, July 27, 2009 4:48:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator cap

Do you
happen to know the number on the reservoir kit you bought.  They sell
quite a
few, and most will not fit in the car.


Richard Drymanrdryman1 at yahoo.com

>
you can use the overflow kit Advance Auto, etc. are now selling(didn't have
>
these 20 years ago) with the round piece of rubber to go in the radiator cap(
> it will not suck it back without that piece of rubber--make sure it has it).
> Use the 5 yr antifreeze 70/30% for 252 degree boilover w/7# cap. Note that
>
1psi on cap increases boil by 3 degrees. I own a 65BJ8 w/ Air Cond. and it
>
doesn't boil over.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From:
R Phillips
> <healeydriver1 at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent:
Monday, July 27,
> 2009 1:26:01 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
> 
> Does
anyone know where I
> might find a 10 lb radiator cap for a '65 BJ8 and
>
whether it is advisable to
> switch from the 7 lb.  Radiator tend to spit some
> coolant when stopped.
> 
> Ric
> '65 BJ8
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
>
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as
>
rdryman1 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as
hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 27 15:37:01 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:37:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <380697.29291.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

finally got smart and went here: __ http://tiny.cc/coolantreturnhealey
It is #
MCR-3 and is $9.49 ;[again, make sure the rubber washer is there]
________________________________
From: Michael Hartfield
<hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: Richard Dryman <rdryman1 at yahoo.com>
Sent:
Monday, July 27, 2009 4:48:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator cap

Do you
happen to know the number on the reservoir kit you bought.  They sell
quite a
few, and most will not fit in the car.


Richard Drymanrdryman1 at yahoo.com

>
you can use the overflow kit Advance Auto, etc. are now selling(didn't have
>
these 20 years ago) with the round piece of rubber to go in the radiator cap(
> it will not suck it back without that piece of rubber--make sure it has it).
> Use the 5 yr antifreeze 70/30% for 252 degree boilover w/7# cap. Note that
>
1psi on cap increases boil by 3 degrees. I own a 65BJ8 w/ Air Cond. and it
>
doesn't boil over.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From:
R Phillips
> <healeydriver1 at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent:
Monday, July 27,
> 2009 1:26:01 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
> 
> Does
anyone know where I
> might find a 10 lb radiator cap for a '65 BJ8 and
>
whether it is advisable to
> switch from the 7 lb.  Radiator tend to spit some
> coolant when stopped.
> 
> Ric
> '65 BJ8
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
>
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as
>
rdryman1 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as
hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From normcay at volcano.net  Mon Jul 27 15:38:11 2009
From: normcay at volcano.net (Norman Cay)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 14:38:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <4A6E1E43.4030204@volcano.net>

McMaster Carr has them,
www.mcmaster.com/#cup-washers/=2xk9wf
Norm

Freese, Ken wrote:
> Anyone have a source for the number 4 cup washers used under the small
> flat head screws for upholstery? Number 6 seems popular, but not number
> 4.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Mon Jul 27 16:25:25 2009
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 22:25:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
In-Reply-To: <4A6E1E43.4030204@volcano.net>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<4A6E1E43.4030204@volcano.net>
Message-ID: <072720092225.10012.4A6E2954000D6DEB0000271C223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>

Their definition of cup washer looks a little different Healeys need the ones w/o shoulders. I just bought 100 from Restoration Specialities, excellent source.

--
Tim Davis BN7 
  -------------- Original message from Norman Cay <normcay at volcano.net>: --------------


> McMaster Carr has them,
> www.mcmaster.com/#cup-washers/=2xk9wf
> Norm
> 
> Freese, Ken wrote:
> > Anyone have a source for the number 4 cup washers used under the small
> > flat head screws for upholstery? Number 6 seems popular, but not number
> > 4.
> > Thanks,
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tld6008 at mchsi.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 27 16:31:17 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:31:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
Message-ID: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>

I need some input on transmission problems.  First gear started to exhibit 
what I'll call a rattlely sort of growl, or a chatter.  This quickly got 
worse and while first will easily engage, as soon as I let out the clutch, 
it will throw itself out of gear, and rather violently at that.  I had to 
limp home from Ventura yesterday starting in second.  Not a lot of fun in 
Sunday afternoon beach traffic.

Secondly, there has developed something of a clunking sound when reverse is 
engaged, whether the clutch is in or out.  No sound when coasing backward in 
neutral.  Don't know if these are related or not.

Can anyone diagnosis this--or at least give some educated guesses?  I'll be 
pulling the transmission out ASAP, but wanted to get any input the list 
might have.

Thanks.

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA 

From bighealey at astound.net  Mon Jul 27 16:47:46 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:47:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-blade plastic Texas Cooler fan Source
References: <d0e.503697c6.379f6fff@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3CF0571035884A3287AF0E1AB094E473@Soderling>

Thanks.  When I called them earlier today they said they didn't sell it.  I
then went on line to the Moss website and found it.  I called them again with
the part number and they acknowledged they have it.  I guess the first guy I
spoke with was new.
Thanks, Marion.
Vrooom,
John
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: MBran89793 at aol.com
  To: bighealey at astound.net ; healeys at autox.team.net
  Cc: jerryw at healey.org
  Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 2:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-blade plastic Texas Cooler fan Source


  The Texas Cooler fan is now available from Moss Mtrs. and from any of your
Moss distributors.
  I just got one about three weeks ago and it is the proper "yellow " color
for 6 cylinder Healeys after late (?) 1960.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 16:52:29 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 06:52:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>
References: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907271552scc7a191g7a7b567611f2d7bb@mail.gmail.com>

Bruce -

First and reverse share the same gear on the laygear and when
either/or is in gear the other gear parts can rotate as well.  The
clunking in reverse suggests that something with first gear is amiss -
I suspect it won't be too serious but the box has to come out and be
rebuilt.

Alan

On 7/28/09, Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> I need some input on transmission problems.  First gear started to exhibit
> what I'll call a rattlely sort of growl, or a chatter.  This quickly got
> worse and while first will easily engage, as soon as I let out the clutch,
> it will throw itself out of gear, and rather violently at that.  I had to
> limp home from Ventura yesterday starting in second.  Not a lot of fun in
> Sunday afternoon beach traffic.
>
> Secondly, there has developed something of a clunking sound when reverse is
> engaged, whether the clutch is in or out.  No sound when coasing backward in
> neutral.  Don't know if these are related or not.
>
> Can anyone diagnosis this--or at least give some educated guesses?  I'll be
> pulling the transmission out ASAP, but wanted to get any input the list
> might have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Jul 27 17:04:18 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 18:04:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <380697.29291.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<380697.29291.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B196508069C94551AF50E12787475D89@GregPC>

I put one on too, on my 100 I mounted it up in the fender well on the 
drivers or carb side, took a little spaghetti arm bending to get it back 
there, but could hardly see it, I was surprised when not only did the 
overflow got to the radiator, but it sucked it back up after it cooled down, 
nice way to avoid leaving the puddle and keeping the radiator topped up.

There were was a large and small size, I got the smaller one.

Greg Lemon 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 17:07:42 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:07:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>
References: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <68BBB043-1126-4171-9094-049560AA6B33@sbcglobal.net>

Either a broken tooth or baddly worn first sliding hub. The klunking  
noise is usually a broken or chipped tooth, the jumping out of gear  
is a worn sliding hub.
The only way to fix the problem is to replace the cluster gear as  
well as the fist sliding hub assy.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 27, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Healey Bruce wrote:

> I need some input on transmission problems.  First gear started to  
> exhibit what I'll call a rattlely sort of growl, or a chatter.   
> This quickly got worse and while first will easily engage, as soon  
> as I let out the clutch, it will throw itself out of gear, and  
> rather violently at that.  I had to limp home from Ventura  
> yesterday starting in second.  Not a lot of fun in Sunday afternoon  
> beach traffic.
>
> Secondly, there has developed something of a clunking sound when  
> reverse is engaged, whether the clutch is in or out.  No sound when  
> coasing backward in neutral.  Don't know if these are related or not.
>
> Can anyone diagnosis this--or at least give some educated guesses?   
> I'll be pulling the transmission out ASAP, but wanted to get any  
> input the list might have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 17:13:04 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:13:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAC2@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <167795.83696.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Ken Freeze ... check page 29 in our Rare and Hard to Find Parts Catalog down
load it if you don't have this catalog    Norman Nock

Tech Talk
SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE 
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way 
Stockton CA 95205


www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

British Car Specialist
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton CA95205     209 948 8767 
--- On Mon, 7/27/09, Freese, Ken <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com> wrote:

From: Freese, Ken <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Number 4 cup washer source
To: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 27, 2009, 11:51 AM

Anyone have a source for the number 4 cup washers used under the small
flat head screws for upholstery? Number 6 seems popular, but not number
4.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jul 27 17:24:02 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 23:24:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <14B3179E891A4C22BCCF30A9AC2B55BD@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <d45.4d660733.379e582f@aol.com>
	<14B3179E891A4C22BCCF30A9AC2B55BD@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W130FBB4D1B2499CFEEF7C3A5140@phx.gbl>

If you are a straight, employed, caucasian male you have no standing to take
exception about anything. Check your "PC For Idiots Handbook" for details...
Bill Lawrence

> From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> To: Awgertoo at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:57:57 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
> G'day
>
> Being a member of an ethnic minority (Australian born named Bruce) I take
> exception to the very unfunny jokes about all my friends with the same
name.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Bruce Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, 27 July 2009 11:09 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
> Perhaps the reasons for demise of the Friday Funnies is twofold:
>
> 1.  They usually weren't very funny, and
> 2.  They were often attempts at humor told at the expense of some
> population subset whether ethnic, sexual, religious, etc.
>
> In any case I have not missed them.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 27 17:30:30 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:30:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <00a601ca0f09$f56bde90$9101a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <861442.40926.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bruce Steele ... To prevent this problem read Healey Marque July 2008 or page
266                         in my Tech Talk book , you will a picture of a
damaged cluster gear 
                        and a new cluster gear ... Norman Nock



TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for
Healey clubs for over 25 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered
them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them
spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
2009 has  275
pages Updated Annually

Both our catalogs are on line and can be down loaded 
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

209 948 8767

Tech Talk
SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE 
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way 
Stockton CA 95205


www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

British Car Specialist
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton CA95205     209 948 8767 
--- On Mon, 7/27/09, Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:

From: Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, July 27, 2009, 3:31 PM

From writeian at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 17:56:22 2009
From: writeian at aol.com (writeian at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:56:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <861442.40926.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBDD2CFA8CAF44-A9C-1886@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com>

Just read p. 266 of Norm Nock's Tech Talk book.  Not only did I highlight the warning statement:
"Do not use EP90" weight oil in Healey gearboxes, I underlined it so to help remember and review it in the future.
A good friend recently experienced a damaged-beyond-use sideshift gearbox in his '60 BN7.  The net resulting cost (aside from no driving fun for at least half a year) will be a $1500-$2000 exchange replacement rebuilt gearbox (from Quantum in Connecticut) some day in the future.
The relevance you wonder ?  He'd been using RedLine gearbox fluid-oil EP75-90 !

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 18:29:05 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:29:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
Message-ID: <d45.4d8141d2.379fa051@aol.com>

Redline gear lubes (GL 5's) are for differentials and are not to be used in 
 the presence of "yellow metals".   
Redline transmission oils--MTL or MT 90 (GL4's)--are for manual  
transmissions and are safe for our cars.
 
Best--Michael Oritt 
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 18:29:36 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:29:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <8CBDD2CFA8CAF44-A9C-1886@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBDD2CFA8CAF44-A9C-1886@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A6E4670.6000500@comcast.net>

Are you sure?  I couldn't find 'EP75-90' anywhere on Redline's site:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?categoryID=6

"EP" means "Extreme Pressure;" these oils have sulfur compounds added which are 
known to be problematic with gearboxes containing brass (e.g. Healey gearboxes). 
  EP oils are usually used in hypoid differentials.

I've used Redline products for years and am very happy with them.


bs





writeian at aol.com wrote:
> Just read p. 266 of Norm Nock's Tech Talk book.  Not only did I highlight the warning statement:
> "Do not use EP90" weight oil in Healey gearboxes, I underlined it so to help remember and review it in the future.
> A good friend recently experienced a damaged-beyond-use sideshift gearbox in his '60 BN7.  The net resulting cost (aside from no driving fun for at least half a year) will be a $1500-$2000 exchange replacement rebuilt gearbox (from Quantum in Connecticut) some day in the future.
> The relevance you wonder ?  He'd been using RedLine gearbox fluid-oil EP75-90 !
> _______________________________________________

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 18:57:55 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:57:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <B196508069C94551AF50E12787475D89@GregPC>
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<380697.29291.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B196508069C94551AF50E12787475D89@GregPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907271757t7ed5f09di99e93e5563cab0ce@mail.gmail.com>

To be honest I prefer the old set up.  It gives me a reason to check
the radiator once a week/month to make sure all is ok....

On 7/28/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> I put one on too, on my 100 I mounted it up in the fender well on the
> drivers or carb side, took a little spaghetti arm bending to get it back
> there, but could hardly see it, I was surprised when not only did the
> overflow got to the radiator, but it sucked it back up after it cooled down,
> nice way to avoid leaving the puddle and keeping the radiator topped up.
>
> There were was a large and small size, I got the smaller one.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Mon Jul 27 20:19:58 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 22:19:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
Message-ID: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>

Ok, as I said last week, I have received my compressor (5 hp, 60 lb  
tank) and will have it installed in the next couple of days. What are  
your recommendations on a blast cabinet? I have about 48" width  
maximum, but would prefer closer to 40", depth and height not a  
problem. I assume dust collector and foot pedal are musts - any other  
features that I really need to be considering? Brands and/or vendors  
would be appreciated. This is for my personal use in my garage, so I  
am not talking about doing a car frame in this thing. More likely just  
bits that would not exceed 18-24", but your advice will be appreciated.

Thanks very much.

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 20:39:27 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:39:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
In-Reply-To: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
References: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
Message-ID: <471534970907271939g69623fe6o87a06c1969430efd@mail.gmail.com>

Lin,

Have you considered building your own? Are you planning on running a
siphon feed or a pressurized kit?

The things I always look at in cabinets are the actual opening of the
door area, ease of replacing glass. I'm presently running a smaller
media cabinet that I've modified a fair bit, and it used to suit my
needs, but I'm getting to the point of growing past it. All the bigger
cabinets I want are $$$$. So, my latest plan was to design/build my
own kit.

Jody

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 7:19 PM, Linwood H Rose<linwoodrose at mac.com> wrote:
> Ok, as I said last week, I have received my compressor (5 hp, 60 lb tank)
> and will have it installed in the next couple of days. What are your
> recommendations on a blast cabinet? I have about 48" width maximum, but
> would prefer closer to 40", depth and height not a problem. I assume dust
> collector and foot pedal are musts - any other features that I really need
> to be considering? Brands and/or vendors would be appreciated. This is for
> my personal use in my garage, so I am not talking about doing a car frame in
> this thing. More likely just bits that would not exceed 18-24", but your
> advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 20:41:34 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:41:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
In-Reply-To: <471534970907271939g69623fe6o87a06c1969430efd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
	<471534970907271939g69623fe6o87a06c1969430efd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471534970907271941s23517f38m114a9d7f02de202d@mail.gmail.com>

Forgot to include this. A link to my setup:

http://www.theymightberacing.com/ShopTech/MediaCabinetModifications.aspx

Jody
-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 21:09:57 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:09:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907271757t7ed5f09di99e93e5563cab0ce@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<380697.29291.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B196508069C94551AF50E12787475D89@GregPC>
	<ff59076c0907271757t7ed5f09di99e93e5563cab0ce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A6E6C05.8060006@comcast.net>

Me too.  I just let the radiator find its own level--usually 2-3 inches from the 
top--then no more wetting the floor.


bs


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> To be honest I prefer the old set up.  It gives me a reason to check
> the radiator once a week/month to make sure all is ok....
> 
> On 7/28/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>> I put one on too, on my 100 I mounted it up in the fender well on the
>> drivers or carb side, took a little spaghetti arm bending to get it back
>> there, but could hardly see it, I was surprised when not only did the
>> overflow got to the radiator, but it sucked it back up after it cooled down,
>> nice way to avoid leaving the puddle and keeping the radiator topped up.
>>
>> There were was a large and small size, I got the smaller one.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>> _______________________________________________

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 21:47:44 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:47:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] External Engine Hardware
Message-ID: <2BFA31F7-B2E6-4244-A6B9-BF8577C3B213@comcast.net>

Listers,

Can anyone tell me the bolt diameter, length, thread pitch/count for  
the two bolts associated with the "blanking plate" area on the forward  
right side of the engine.  The Healey models in question are BN7, BT7,  
BJ7, and BJ8.  This hardware may be seen on pages 10 & 11 of the Moss  
catalogue AHY-104 under page heading "External Engine 100-6, 3000".   
The bolt is item 39, two are required.  Also listed are four (4)  
copper washers, item 40.

On earlier Healey engines, i.e., BN4 & BN6, a blanking plate, gasket,  
studs, nuts, and washers served to seal an area of the block.  On the  
later cars the bolts apparently sealed the threaded holes and the  
plate was no longer necessary.  We are about to fire up a rebuilt  
engine and do not have the bolts or the technical information on the  
bolt size, length, or threads and are hoping one of the listers can  
provide the information.

Thanks.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From healeynut at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 27 23:45:47 2009
From: healeynut at hotmail.com (Don Hardie)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 15:45:47 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
In-Reply-To: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
References: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-W37340EC163706DE7AAFCF9BC150@phx.gbl>

Lin

I have attached plans of one I built in the dim distant past, which if you
have the time and inclination you could build.
If anyone else would like the let me know.

Don
BN1
Lake Haven NSW
OZ



> From: linwoodrose at mac.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 22:19:58 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
>
> Ok, as I said last week, I have received my compressor (5 hp, 60 lb
> tank) and will have it installed in the next couple of days. What are
> your recommendations on a blast cabinet? I have about 48" width
> maximum, but would prefer closer to 40", depth and height not a
> problem. I assume dust collector and foot pedal are musts - any other
> features that I really need to be considering? Brands and/or vendors
> would be appreciated. This is for my personal use in my garage, so I
> am not talking about doing a car frame in this thing. More likely just
> bits that would not exceed 18-24", but your advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeynut at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Need a new model in your life? Sell your car fast.
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fsecure%2Dau%2Eimrworldwide%2E
com%2Fcgi%2Dbin%2Fa%2Fci%5F450304%2Fet%5F2%2Fcg%5F801459%2Fpi%5F1004813%2Fai%
5F866383&_t=758314219&_r=carpoint_tagline&_m=EXT

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf]

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 04:44:58 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 06:44:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets
References: <8610E45A-0E2B-461C-B262-A88704850906@mac.com>
Message-ID: <001201ca0f70$73d62bd0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

If your not going to do another restoration Lin then a cabinet will just 
take up a lot of space.
After cleaning up a batch of parts 2 years ago for my Healey I haven't used 
my cabinet sense.

A good dust collector/vacuum is a must.   I did the same thing my buddy did 
a used a shop vac.   Bad
move.   I had dust every where before I new what was happening.

 I purchased a small , top load
table top, blasting unit .  One problem was that the vac would suck the 
gloves off their mounts so I couldn't run the vac when blasting.   I had to 
open the lid a little to let some air in.

It takes a large compressor to keep up with blasting so don't buy too small.

If I need to use this again I will roll the cabinet outside to do the work.

Just my experiences.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linwood H Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 10:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] blast cabinets


> Ok, as I said last week, I have received my compressor (5 hp, 60 lb  tank) 
> and will have it installed in the next couple of days. What are  your 
> recommendations on a blast cabinet? I have about 48" width  maximum, but 
> would prefer closer to 40", depth and height not a  problem. I assume dust 
> collector and foot pedal are musts - any other  features that I really 
> need to be considering? Brands and/or vendors  would be appreciated. This 
> is for my personal use in my garage, so I  am not talking about doing a 
> car frame in this thing. More likely just  bits that would not exceed 
> 18-24", but your advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
> 1959 AN5 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Jul 28 06:37:16 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:37:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] External Engine Hardware
References: <2BFA31F7-B2E6-4244-A6B9-BF8577C3B213@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1EEDDC309DF0442E967C04DCE9043ADD@LIFEBOOK>

Those are listed in the BMC Mechanical Service Parts List as being Hex head 
5/16" NF x 5/8" long.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Schneider" <mandmschneider at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 11:47 PM
Subject: [Healeys] External Engine Hardware


> Listers,
>
> Can anyone tell me the bolt diameter, length, thread pitch/count for  the 
> two bolts associated with the "blanking plate" area on the forward  right 
> side of the engine.  The Healey models in question are BN7, BT7,  BJ7, and 
> BJ8.  This hardware may be seen on pages 10 & 11 of the Moss  catalogue 
> AHY-104 under page heading "External Engine 100-6, 3000".   The bolt is 
> item 39, two are required.  Also listed are four (4)  copper washers, item 
> 40.
>
> On earlier Healey engines, i.e., BN4 & BN6, a blanking plate, gasket, 
> studs, nuts, and washers served to seal an area of the block.  On the 
> later cars the bolts apparently sealed the threaded holes and the  plate 
> was no longer necessary.  We are about to fire up a rebuilt  engine and do 
> not have the bolts or the technical information on the  bolt size, length, 
> or threads and are hoping one of the listers can  provide the information.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Marks 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From amalin at mac.com  Tue Jul 28 07:22:59 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 09:22:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Bill Emereson / Healey Westland
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS21A8682A51387A67100B99A2140@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS21A8682A51387A67100B99A2140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F41DCD0D-C34D-4E0B-ADF1-CFF5A9B53B33@mac.com>

Here are two photos of the Healey Westland at Euro Auto Festival 2007  
in Spartansburg, SC.

http://tricarb.com/gallery/euroauto2007/IMG_5384

http://tricarb.com/gallery/euroauto2007/IMG_5425

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Jul 27, 2009, at 3:06 PM, Dick Matson wrote:

> Is this the (Sept) Hemmings article ?
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ray Juncal<mailto:healeyray at yahoo.com>
> To: List Healey<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 5:37 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emereson / Healey Westland
>
>
>    Very nice series of articles in "Sports & Exotic Car" about Bill's
> Westland  and Donald and Geoff's drive in it across America in 1948.
>    Bill the photo in upper right corner, page 27, is taken at Malaga  
> Cove
> Plaza, Palos Verdes Estates, CA.  Just south of Los Angeles.  The  
> statue of
> Neptune and the Plaza remain very much as they were then.  Thought  
> you might
> want to add this info to your photo collection.
> Regards
> Ray Juncal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 09:50:25 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:50:25 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Flasher questions for the Healey Detectives
Message-ID: <c4a.56e08f86.37a07841@aol.com>

While trying to solve some flasher problems we observed the  following:
 
Three BJ8's (one Phase 1 with relay box, two Phase 2) The Phase one car has 
 higher wattage halogen bulbs. The Phase 2 cars have stock wattage bulbs. 
The turn signals work normally for a while. Length of time depends on how  
often & long the turn signals are on. Then, the dash lights begin to  
operate erratically.
Sometimes the dash light will miss a beat, sometimes it will stop  flashing 
completely, sometimes BOTH dash lights will flash. The external lights  
continue to operate normally. 
While double checking the wiring we discovered that on all three cars the  
dash lights were reversed from what the wiring diagram would indicate. I.E. 
The  left dash light (green/red wire) was on the right side of the dash  & 
visa versa. Have others noticed this discrepency?
Now the really strange part. If the wire (LGP) on terminal "P" is removed  
from the flasher & grounded (see Norm Knock's article on replacing the  
flasher unit with a two wire "loud" unit) the intermitant problem dissappears  & 
the dash lights seem to be brighter, but the dash lights are now reversed!  
I.E. When the left turn signal is on, the right dash light flashes! We do  
not understand why grounding the "LGP" wire would change which dash light  
flashes. The external lights continue to operate normally. Of  course, the 
bulb holders can simply be reversed & it would appear  that our intermitant 
problems are gone & the dash lights are brighter. Has  anyone else tried this? 
By the way, one of us did replace the flasher with the  "loud" two terminal 
flasher relay, but did not move it inside the passenger  compartment. He 
reports that it is not loud enough to hear over all the  other sounds (noise).
Gary Hodson
    
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377107x1201454434/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From writeian at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 11:21:58 2009
From: writeian at aol.com (writeian at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 13:21:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
Message-ID: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>

I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the MT or MTL fluid-oil.

I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period. 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Jul 28 11:37:12 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 13:37:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
References: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <333F2F591B6F452CA0DDC0237CA7F1C9@LIFEBOOK>

"Me too, Ollie!" (famous line from Stan Laurel)

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <writeian at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission troubles


>I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the gearbox 
>of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring replacement.? He 
>had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>
> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its overdrive 
> and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Jul 28 11:39:43 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 03:39:43 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C8879147-F175-47EA-9ADB-94D6652798AF@gmail.com>

So what was the actual failure? I've blown up engines, and busted  
gearboxes in Sprites in the past, but it never had anything to do with  
the oil.... ;-)
I've been using the correct Redline synthetic oils in my BJ8 gearbox/  
overdrive, and diff (which are 2 different oils), for many years, and  
am very happy with them. As have numerous others on this list.
Sounds like he may have used EP diff oil in his brass synchro gearbox...

Chris
Sydney Australia
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 29/07/2009, at 3:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:

> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the  
> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring  
> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the  
> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>
> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its  
> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
> ______________________________

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 12:10:58 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:10:58 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
Message-ID: <bea.44be5de0.37a09932@aol.com>

Ian--
 
The designation 75/90 tells me it was GL5 diff oil which is a  different 
product than the GL4 Manual Transmission oils (Redline MTL or  MT90).  I don't 
know what was the nature of your friend's transmission  failure and it 
might or might have been related to the lubricant, but it  certainly helps to 
use the correct and recommended product.  
 
FWIW I use MT90 in my Healeys which both have Toyota 5-speeds and  my Elva 
which has an MGA non-overdrive CR transmission, all with good  results. I 
have no financial involvement with Redline though I sure wish I  did! 
 
Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 7/28/2009 1:22:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
writeian at aol.com writes:

He had  been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the MT or MTL  fluid-oil.




**************A bad credit score is 600 & below. Checking won't affect your 
score. See now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgI
D=62&bcd=JulyBadfooterNO62)

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 12:15:32 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:15:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CA9A88D8-A807-4B70-9762-0FCBE2456BBB@sbcglobal.net>

The Red Line Gear oils are several different ones

Red Line MTL is a 75/80 gear oil.  This is designed for a manual  
transmission that requires 30 wt oils.

Red Line 90wt gear oils are designed for transmissions and rear axle  
units that require a 90 wt gear oil, This will also vary if you have  
a limit slip rear axle.

Also gear oils do not have the same viscocity ratings as engine oils  
so a 75/80 gear oil is the same as a 30 wt engine oil. The British  
transmissions that did not have a syncro  first gear did  not use a  
90wt gear oil that all required a 30wt non detergent engine oil.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:

> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the  
> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring  
> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the  
> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>
> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its  
> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From don at anglesey.us  Tue Jul 28 12:16:39 2009
From: don at anglesey.us (Don)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:16:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <8CBDDBF0C3D1694-A54-1479@FWM-M38.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAy3q/n82Csk+kxyORTujD9wEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

Redline 75W90 NS is GL-5 gear oil designed for limited-slip hypoid
differentials. The MT and MTL are GL-4 Gear Oil and designed to work
perfectly in a Healey transmission.  Check the archives there is a ton
of info on it.
Don
57' BN4

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of writeian at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 11:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission troubles

I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the
gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring
replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the MT
or MTL fluid-oil.

I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its overdrive
and will probably not ever use anything else, period. 

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Jul 28 12:25:15 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:25:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
Message-ID: <20090728.112523.5383.35146@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>

It is, I believe, Ollie: "Well, here's another nice mess you've gotten me
into."  

You're showing your age Rich. :)

Doug

> "Me too, Ollie!" (famous line from Stan Laurel)
> 
> Rich Chrysler
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <writeian at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
> 
> 
> >I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the 
> gearbox 
> >of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring 
> replacement.? He 
> >had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the MT or MTL 
> fluid-oil.
> >
> > I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its 
> overdrive 
> > and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
 
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From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Tue Jul 28 13:15:37 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:15:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <CA9A88D8-A807-4B70-9762-0FCBE2456BBB@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

Does than mean my using Redline MT-90 in my Healey would be the wrong oil?


David Nockhealeydoc at sbcglobal.net

> The Red Line Gear oils are several different ones
> 
> Red Line MTL is a 75/80 gear oil.  This is designed for a manual
> transmission that requires 30 wt oils.
> 
> Red Line 90wt gear oils are designed for transmissions and rear axle
> units that require a 90 wt gear oil, This will also vary if you have
> a limit slip rear axle.
> 
> Also gear oils do not have the same viscocity ratings as engine oils
> so a 75/80 gear oil is the same as a 30 wt engine oil. The British
> transmissions that did not have a syncro  first gear did  not use a
> 90wt gear oil that all required a 30wt non detergent engine oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
> 
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> ..
> ..
> 
> On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:
> 
>> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the
>> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring
>> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the
>> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>> 
>> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its
>> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Tue Jul 28 13:38:18 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 15:38:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <6A323D07-B929-4A87-9D53-E06752C0A6C1@gmail.com>

Read the specs off the Redline site.

http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/6.pdf

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com






On Jul 28, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Michael Hartfield wrote:

> Does than mean my using Redline MT-90 in my Healey would be the  
> wrong oil?
>
>
> David Nockhealeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>> The Red Line Gear oils are several different ones
>>
>> Red Line MTL is a 75/80 gear oil.  This is designed for a manual
>> transmission that requires 30 wt oils.
>>
>> Red Line 90wt gear oils are designed for transmissions and rear axle
>> units that require a 90 wt gear oil, This will also vary if you have
>> a limit slip rear axle.
>>
>> Also gear oils do not have the same viscocity ratings as engine oils
>> so a 75/80 gear oil is the same as a 30 wt engine oil. The British
>> transmissions that did not have a syncro  first gear did  not use a
>> 90wt gear oil that all required a 30wt non detergent engine oil.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> ..
>> ..
>>
>> On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the
>>> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring
>>> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the
>>> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>>>
>>> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its
>>> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 14:23:18 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 13:23:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <85FBE269-6C22-4183-9B99-AD601EED12B5@sbcglobal.net>

Since the Red Line MTL is the equivalent to a 30 wt engine oil which  
is the manufactures recomendation we use that. We have used the MTL  
for several years and all the cars we have changed over the owners  
have reported that the transmission shift smother that ever.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 28, 2009, at 12:15 PM, Michael Hartfield wrote:

> Does than mean my using Redline MT-90 in my Healey would be the  
> wrong oil?
>
>
> David Nockhealeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>> The Red Line Gear oils are several different ones
>>
>> Red Line MTL is a 75/80 gear oil.  This is designed for a manual
>> transmission that requires 30 wt oils.
>>
>> Red Line 90wt gear oils are designed for transmissions and rear axle
>> units that require a 90 wt gear oil, This will also vary if you have
>> a limit slip rear axle.
>>
>> Also gear oils do not have the same viscocity ratings as engine oils
>> so a 75/80 gear oil is the same as a 30 wt engine oil. The British
>> transmissions that did not have a syncro  first gear did  not use a
>> 90wt gear oil that all required a 30wt non detergent engine oil.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> ..
>> ..
>>
>> On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the
>>> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring
>>> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the
>>> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
>>>
>>> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its
>>> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 28 15:34:54 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 17:34:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
References: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <002401ca0fcb$3fa0a1f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

MT-90 here.   Looking forward to some smoooooooth shifting.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>; <writeian at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission troubles


> Does than mean my using Redline MT-90 in my Healey would be the wrong oil?

From brunoverstraete at mac.com  Tue Jul 28 15:34:46 2009
From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:34:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys return to Bonneville
Message-ID: <F8FD7D25-F167-4819-B058-C1FF701F47A7@mac.com>

Dear Healey Enthusiasts,

Many amongst you might have heard about the Healeys return to  
Bonneville project. Between 16-19th of September 2009, two  
reconstructed Special Healeys, the Endurance Car and the Streamliner  
will return to the Saltflats in Bonneville, Utah. For more information  
and subscribing to the Newsletter check out www.healeysreturntobonneville.com 
.

For those who already registered and who indicated that they will come  
to see these Healeys take speed on the Salt, there will be a  
competition for the best dressed participants. As this is a Revival we  
thought it would be nice to come in 1950's clothing. We expecat at  
this stage more than 100 enthusiasts from all over the world to cheer  
us on and experience this Unique event!

Looking forward to see you all!
Happy Healeying.
Bruno Verstraete

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 28 18:21:33 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 00:21:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
In-Reply-To: <C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <CA9A88D8-A807-4B70-9762-0FCBE2456BBB@sbcglobal.net>
	<C6949C69.379F%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <COL106-W5994EE802AE84C37F9D17AC0120@phx.gbl>

Yes, it is the wrong oil for your transmission. Use Redline 30wt engine oil.
Richard Mayor


> Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:15:37 -0700
> From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net; writeian at aol.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission troubles
>
> Does than mean my using Redline MT-90 in my Healey would be the wrong oil?
>
>
> David Nockhealeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> > The Red Line Gear oils are several different ones
> >
> > Red Line MTL is a 75/80 gear oil.  This is designed for a manual
> > transmission that requires 30 wt oils.
> >
> > Red Line 90wt gear oils are designed for transmissions and rear axle
> > units that require a 90 wt gear oil, This will also vary if you have
> > a limit slip rear axle.
> >
> > Also gear oils do not have the same viscocity ratings as engine oils
> > so a 75/80 gear oil is the same as a 30 wt engine oil. The British
> > transmissions that did not have a syncro  first gear did  not use a
> > 90wt gear oil that all required a 30wt non detergent engine oil.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > David Nock
> > British Car Specialists
> > Stockton Ca 95205
> > 209-948-8767
> >
> > www.britishcarspecialists.com
> > ..
> > ..
> >
> > On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:21 AM, writeian at aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> I made a mistake reporting the fluid-oil my friend had used in the
> >> gearbox of his '60 BN7 who experienced a gearbox failure requiring
> >> replacement.? He had been using Redline 75W90NS whether that is the
> >> MT or MTL fluid-oil.
> >>
> >> I use?SAE 30 non-detergent oil in my '60 3000 gearbox and its
> >> overdrive and will probably not ever use anything else, period.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 29 08:01:25 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 07:01:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
References: <C69360B2.3734%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<776342.52256.qm@web110315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5533C83386D54648A4A3328396EC7623@lyon1>

We all know how embarrassing wet marks are!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Dryman" <rdryman1 at yahoo.com>
To: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2009 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator cap


> to the side rail and to the receiver. And it works guys--the radiator 
> stays
> "Plumb Full" and you are never embarrassed with the tell-tale wet mark.

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Wed Jul 29 08:00:18 2009
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:00:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey Mini
Message-ID: <70B203D91C304DC3A34A20EBDC3416AD@ClassicCarWorld.local>

Hi Guys, a slight twist to the normal Healey talk. I received the following link from a friend at the British Mini Club today about a mini which Donald Healey owned in 1965 and had converted to a 2-seater convertible.

http://www.miniworld.co.uk/news/Happy_50th_birthday_Mini__Mini_news_and_updates_article_280010.html

The car is currently in Japan and is apparently the 2nd mini off the production line.

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay  Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd  32 Washingborough Road  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE  01522 888178 (Tel)  0870 705 9115 (fax)  enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE.  Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Jul 29 12:29:17 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:29:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?flasher_unit?=
Message-ID: <20090729182917.7853.qmail@server278.com>

i recently replaced the buss flasher on my bj8 with a lucas unit because both my dash lights flash at the same time.  it made no difference.  i have no idea why this happens as it does not appear to be a wiring problem(unless up inside the harness where i cannot see).  in order to make sure i do not go down the highway with my turn signal on i went to radio shack and bought one of their little 4 dollar buzzers and wired it under the dash with one wire coming from flasher tab that goes to dash lights and one to ground.  makes noise as long as flasher is working, even over wind noise on freeway and i am getting deaf as a post.   hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Jul 29 12:55:40 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 18:55:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Redline_oil?=
Message-ID: <20090729185540.29709.qmail@server278.com>

when i restored the bn6 i put redline oil in the trans.  within a day it had started to leak out.  having had bad experiences with synthetic oil in the engine, i drained the trans oil and replaced with 30 weight ND.  it took a while but most of the leaks stopped within a week or two.   seems to be more slippery.    hjim

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Jul 29 13:08:21 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 14:08:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Redline oil
In-Reply-To: <20090729185540.29709.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <20090729140821.SFLFT.215484.root@ispmxfep16-z01>

I'm using it in my BJ8 and there is a noticable (positive) difference in shifting, and no more leaks than before, if any.

tom 
---- healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: 
> when i restored the bn6 i put redline oil in the trans.  within a day it had started to leak out.  having had bad experiences with synthetic oil in the engine, i drained the trans oil and replaced with 30 weight ND.  it took a while but most of the leaks stopped within a week or two.   seems to be more slippery.    hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Jul 29 14:02:56 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:02:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE
In-Reply-To: <640793.20707.qm@web110615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <640793.20707.qm@web110615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3603C8EE-89C1-4015-9C1F-E3A3E3A37958@mac.com>

Here is a photo of the dead pedal on my Tricarb which consists of the  
original dipper bracket covered with a aluminium plate.

http://tricarb.com/download/deadpedal.jpg

Al Malin
Tricarb



On Jul 27, 2009, at 7:38 AM, scott at scottjgraham.com wrote:

> Hi all
>
> Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last minute check to  
> see if
> there is a simple solution out there for a throttle pedal that  
> allows heel toe
> changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the headlight  
> dipper
> switch.  Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Jul 29 17:22:24 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:22:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys return to Bonneville
In-Reply-To: <F8FD7D25-F167-4819-B058-C1FF701F47A7@mac.com>
References: <F8FD7D25-F167-4819-B058-C1FF701F47A7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0341FAF8@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Dressed like 50's Hot Rodders or 50's Tea Baggers?????
A lot of the current participants are still in the basic blue jeans and
white T-shirts. Not so many rolled up sleeves with cigarette packs in
them, though.
Ken Freese

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruno Verstraete
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 2:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys return to Bonneville

Dear Healey Enthusiasts,

Many amongst you might have heard about the Healeys return to Bonneville
project. Between 16-19th of September 2009, two reconstructed Special
Healeys, the Endurance Car and the Streamliner will return to the
Saltflats in Bonneville, Utah. For more information and subscribing to
the Newsletter check out www.healeysreturntobonneville.com .

For those who already registered and who indicated that they will come
to see these Healeys take speed on the Salt, there will be a competition
for the best dressed participants. As this is a Revival we thought it
would be nice to come in 1950's clothing. We expecat at this stage more
than 100 enthusiasts from all over the world to cheer us on and
experience this Unique event!

Looking forward to see you all!
Happy Healeying.
Bruno Verstraete

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 18:59:10 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 08:59:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey Mini
In-Reply-To: <70B203D91C304DC3A34A20EBDC3416AD@ClassicCarWorld.local>
References: <70B203D91C304DC3A34A20EBDC3416AD@ClassicCarWorld.local>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907291759i3706803cu39f4ef6d1c800f48@mail.gmail.com>

The writer didn't seem to like the convertible conversion, but I think it
looks nice.  Interesting the rear fender treatment...

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 10:00 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd <
enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi Guys, a slight twist to the normal Healey talk. I received the following
> link from a friend at the British Mini Club today about a mini which Donald
> Healey owned in 1965 and had converted to a 2-seater convertible.
>
>
> http://www.miniworld.co.uk/news/Happy_50th_birthday_Mini__Mini_news_and_updates_article_280010.html
>
> The car is currently in Japan and is apparently the 2nd mini off the
> production line.
>
> Kindest Regards
>
> Tom
> Tom McCay  Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd  32 Washingborough Road
>  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE  01522 888178 (Tel)  0870 705 9115 (fax)
> enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com
>
> Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE.
>  Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with
> company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 29 19:07:58 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:07:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] flasher unit
References: <20090729182917.7853.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <000701ca10b2$2e23ed50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

 Its amazing how that buzz cuts through the road noise.
  And it gives me a tool to use when the wife gets under my skin ,  she 
hates the sound.

To fine tune that little guy you can apply a piece of electrical tape over 
the grille
of the buzzer.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 2:29 PM
Subject: [Healeys] flasher unit


>i recently replaced the buss flasher on my bj8 with a lucas unit because 
>both my dash lights flash at the same time.  it made no difference.  i have 
>no idea why this happens as it does not appear to be a wiring 
>problem(unless up inside the harness where i cannot see).  in order to make 
>sure i do not go down the highway with my turn signal on i went to radio 
>shack and bought one of their little 4 dollar buzzers and wired it under 
>the dash with one wire coming from flasher tab that goes to dash lights and 
>one to ground.  makes noise as long as flasher is working, even over wind 
>noise on freeway and i am getting deaf as a post.   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From akronzips at aol.com  Wed Jul 29 22:34:41 2009
From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 00:34:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] membership
Message-ID: <8CBDEE630AB5216-1658-243A@webmail-mh43.sysops.aol.com>

akronzips at aol.com

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 29 22:59:03 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:59:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE / Disaster...
In-Reply-To: <3603C8EE-89C1-4015-9C1F-E3A3E3A37958@mac.com>
Message-ID: <823002.79595.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

VERY good pint on the heel/toe - the lack thereof.

The throttle position relative to the break is a disaster on the BJ8 at least.
I dont think it is just my car - is it???

Has anyone make a simple mod to this design flaw??

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 7/29/09, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:

> From: Al Malin <amalin at mac.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL
TOE
> To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 2009, 1:02 PM
> Here is a photo of the dead pedal on
> my Tricarb which consists of the original dipper bracket
> covered with a aluminium plate.
>
> http://tricarb.com/download/deadpedal.jpg
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
>
>
> On Jul 27, 2009, at 7:38 AM, scott at scottjgraham.com
> wrote:
>
> > Hi all
> >
> > Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last
> minute check to see if
> > there is a simple solution out there for a throttle
> pedal that allows heel toe
> > changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the
> headlight dipper
> > switch.  Any recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Scott
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From brunoverstraete at mac.com  Tue Jul 28 15:20:13 2009
From: brunoverstraete at mac.com (Bruno Verstraete)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:20:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys return to Bonneville
Message-ID: <D11A871B-9888-4DE0-AED3-4C09D41B5C36@mac.com>

Dear Healey Enthusiasts,

Many amongst you might have heard about the Healeys return to  
Bonneville project. Between 16-19th of September 2009, two  
reconstructed Special Healeys, the Endurance Car and the Streamliner  
will return to the Saltflats in Bonneville, Utah. For more information  
and subscribing to the Newsletter check out www.healeysreturntobonneville.com 
.

For those who already registered and who indicated that they will come  
to see these Healeys take speed on the Salt, there will be a  
competition for the best dressed participants. As this is a Revival we  
thought it would be nice to come in 1950's clothing. We expecat at  
this stage more than 100 enthusiasts from all over the world to cheer  
us on and experience this Unique event!

Looking forward to see you all!
Happy Healeying.
Bruno Verstraete

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Jul 29 23:35:07 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 15:35:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE / Disaster...
In-Reply-To: <823002.79595.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <823002.79595.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EC691D0A36094CDCB5FDDC0A8C5E971B@PeterPC>

Do the 6 cyls have the same organ pedal type throttle pedal as the 4 cyls? 
If so - I simply attached a 1/2" thick x 1" x 2" block of rubber with wiring 
ties about 2" up from the pivot of the throttle pedal - allows heel & toe 
but doesn't inerefere with normal use of the throttle pedal.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Al Malin" 
<amalin at mac.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE / Disaster...


> VERY good pint on the heel/toe - the lack thereof.
>
> The throttle position relative to the break is a disaster on the BJ8 at 
> least.
> I dont think it is just my car - is it???
>
> Has anyone make a simple mod to this design flaw??
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 7/29/09, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Al Malin <amalin at mac.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL
> TOE
>> To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 2009, 1:02 PM
>> Here is a photo of the dead pedal on
>> my Tricarb which consists of the original dipper bracket
>> covered with a aluminium plate.
>>
>> http://tricarb.com/download/deadpedal.jpg
>>
>> Al Malin
>> Tricarb
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 27, 2009, at 7:38 AM, scott at scottjgraham.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi all
>> >
>> > Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last
>> minute check to see if
>> > there is a simple solution out there for a throttle
>> pedal that allows heel toe
>> > changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the
>> headlight dipper
>> > switch.  Any recommendations?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > Scott

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 29 23:59:24 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 22:59:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE / Disaster...
In-Reply-To: <823002.79595.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <823002.79595.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <09C38FE180724997B43AF81CABC75018@LeonardPCPC>

Robert:  Many years ago, I acquired an aluminum gas pedal that is 9 inches 
long, 2 inches wide, and fastens to the floor with a hinged fitting.  The 
back of the pedal merely pushes against the stock pedal.  Very easy to heel 
and toe.  Not exactly like mine but if you look at the OMIX ACCELERATOR 
PEDAL at J. C. Whitney, you will get the idea.  I don't know why the JCW 
price is so outrageous.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Al Malin" 
<amalin at mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL TOE / Disaster...


> VERY good pint on the heel/toe - the lack thereof.
>
> The throttle position relative to the break is a disaster on the BJ8 at 
> least.
> I dont think it is just my car - is it???
>
> Has anyone make a simple mod to this design flaw??
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 7/29/09, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Al Malin <amalin at mac.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] DRIVER'S SIDE FOOTREST / ACCELERATOR PEDAL / HEEL
> TOE
>> To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 2009, 1:02 PM
>> Here is a photo of the dead pedal on
>> my Tricarb which consists of the original dipper bracket
>> covered with a aluminium plate.
>>
>> http://tricarb.com/download/deadpedal.jpg
>>
>> Al Malin
>> Tricarb
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 27, 2009, at 7:38 AM, scott at scottjgraham.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi all
>> >
>> > Off to sprint my BJ7 this weekend and making a last
>> minute check to see if
>> > there is a simple solution out there for a throttle
>> pedal that allows heel toe
>> > changes and / or a left footrest to go in place of the
>> headlight dipper
>> > switch.  Any recommendations?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > Scott
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>> >
>> > http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Thu Jul 30 04:55:20 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 06:55:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Blast Cabinets
Message-ID: <923A20A3-75E0-4F0A-B6A0-C2AF3FA6CB87@mac.com>

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question about blast cabinet  
recommendations. I will post what I end up doing.

Cheers,

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Jul 30 06:09:24 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 08:09:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Blast Cabinets
In-Reply-To: <923A20A3-75E0-4F0A-B6A0-C2AF3FA6CB87@mac.com>
References: <923A20A3-75E0-4F0A-B6A0-C2AF3FA6CB87@mac.com>
Message-ID: <00da01ca110e$94c938b0$be5baa10$@net>

There are now instructions and diagrams on how to build your own blast
cabinet and metal folding brake on my site on the Technical page in the
Miscellaneous section. Could be good projects for local clubs.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Linwood H Rose
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 6:55 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Blast Cabinets

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question about blast cabinet
recommendations. I will post what I end up doing.

Cheers,

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye
_______________________________________________

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul 30 08:23:40 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:23:40 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] flasher unit
Message-ID: <c75.57388dff.37a306ec@aol.com>

Three of us recently had the same thing happen including the Buss & a  new 
Lucas flasher. If you remove the wire from the "P" terminal (the LPG wire)  
and ground it, the dash lights will work "normally", however (I predict)  
they will be reversed. I.E. When you turn on the right signal, the right  
external lights will flash, but the left dash light will flash. To correct  
this, simply reverse the lights behind the dash. Norm Nock has written a lot  
about the flasher operation in his Tech Talk publication. But I have not heard 
 anyone report a similar experience. Nor explain what is going on here.
Gary Hodson   
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2009 1:35:00 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
healeymanjim at hansencc.net writes:

i  recently replaced the buss flasher on my bj8 with a lucas unit because 
both my  dash lights flash at the same time.  it made no  difference.

**************Hot Deals at Dell on Popular Laptops perfect for Back to 
School 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223105306x1201716871/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D9)

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Thu Jul 30 12:16:45 2009
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 14:16:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2 Seater Hardtop
Message-ID: <DA92FC5E1B244988B6694DC54DB43D01@DadsPC>

I mentioned a short while back that I was considering selling my 2-seater 
hardtop. I've finally decided to part with it and am serving notice to any 
listers that may be interested. I already have heard from several and have 
kept their emails, but this is to confirm that it will be for sale so any 
others that might be interested can be in the hunt.  I'll send a detailed 
email in a couple of days to all who are interested.  The black top can be 
seen at the bottom of this gallery: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/mybn7

Regards,
Mike L. 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul 30 15:35:49 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:35:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
Message-ID: <20090730163549.Q9RLF.219811.root@ispmxfep15-z02>

Other than the round external knob and the round inner threaded part, are there other pieces that need to go with mounting the lock mechanism?

Unless I leave the external knob loose, the lock won't push in, and this is with the rear mounting plate flush with the back of the glovebox door.  Must be a spacer on the outer knob that I don't have.

Anyone know?

TIA
tom 

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Jul 31 05:30:56 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 04:30:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cross country travelers
Message-ID: <74AD73982E2C43B6A6DB6D0ECB82F135@TRACY>

Someone want to reach out to this Midget driver

 

http://bridgetthemidget.co.uk/2009/07/31/lone-star-country/

 

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From healeydriver1 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 06:37:26 2009
From: healeydriver1 at gmail.com (R Phillips)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a mechanic
Message-ID: <6ea3ee9e0907310537j32394f9brb521095726bceb31@mail.gmail.com>

I am moving my '65 BJ8 from the Boston area to Naples, FL.  In so doing, I
am leaving one of the best British car mechanics in the country.  Can anyone
suggest someone who
truly understands these cars in Southwest Florida?

Ric
'65 BJ8

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 06:58:59 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:58:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <20090730163549.Q9RLF.219811.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
References: <20090730163549.Q9RLF.219811.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0907310558w45237bf0r3f654697c4910a38@mail.gmail.com>

My glove box didn't want to push in, and when I did push it in, it didn't
want to pop back out.  I removed it from the lid, took it apart, greased it
with a white lithium grease, and now it works great.

- Tom

On Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 5:35 PM, <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Other than the round external knob and the round inner threaded part, are
> there other pieces that need to go with mounting the lock mechanism?
>
> Unless I leave the external knob loose, the lock won't push in, and this is
> with the rear mounting plate flush with the back of the glovebox door.  Must
> be a spacer on the outer knob that I don't have.
>
> Anyone know?
>
> TIA
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From CAWS52803 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 07:02:25 2009
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:02:25 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a mechanic
Message-ID: <d54.56db5b45.37a44561@aol.com>

Try Paul Tsikuris in Lakeland. FL.  _rosscreek at aol.com_ 
(mailto:rosscreek at aol.com) 
 
Rudy Streng
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 07:19:08 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:19:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0907310558w45237bf0r3f654697c4910a38@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090730163549.Q9RLF.219811.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
	<d9b7a14d0907310558w45237bf0r3f654697c4910a38@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A72EF4C.2030407@comcast.net>

A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps better.  Grease 
will eventually attract dust and dirt and get gunky--could stop the tumblers 
from falling properly.

Not too much, or you'll get 'black hand disease' from opening the box.  I once 
overdid it and my passenger/navigator was not amused ;)


bs



Tom wrote:
> My glove box didn't want to push in, and when I did push it in, it didn't
> want to pop back out.  I removed it from the lid, took it apart, greased it
> with a white lithium grease, and now it works great.
> 
> - Tom



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From wwscpo at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 07:47:30 2009
From: wwscpo at aol.com (wwscpo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:47:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windows
Message-ID: <8CBDFFC9540D7A0-C68-1A21@WEBMAIL-MZ37.sysops.aol.com>

I have a lingering problem with my windows.? I replaced the glass in both and cleaned up the winding mechanisms.? They worked smoothly and easily when I put them back.? I added the chrome and rubber seals and I can barely crank the windows up or down. What could have happened?? The chrome is after market from a good source, but was very difficult to install, with or without the rubber.
Your thoughts are appreciated.

Bill Schumann

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 08:09:15 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:09:15 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>

: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)  

Skinny  
Dipping  


An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years. 
 
He  had  a large pond in the back.    


It  was  properly shaped for swimming, so he fixed it up nice with picnic  
tables,  horseshoe courts, and some apple, and  peach trees..

One evening the old farmer  decided to go down to  the pond, as he hadn't  
been there for a while,  and look it  over. 

He  grabbed  a five-gallon bucket  to bring back some fruit. 

As he neared the  pond, he heard voices shouting and laughing  with glee.  

As  he  came closer, he saw it was a bunch of young women  skinny-dipping  
in his pond.    


He made  the women aware of his presence and they all went to the deep  
end.  

One of  the women shouted to him, 'we're not coming out until you leave!'  

The old man frowned, 'I didn't come down 
here to watch  you ladies swim naked or make you get out of the pond  
naked.'

Holding the bucket up he said, 'I'm here to 
feed the  alligator.'

Some old men can still  think fast. 









**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 31 09:15:27 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:15:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A3DCDFA43A6458E85F840FA656A1E55@lyon1>

Those easily offended should be advised to delete "Friday Funnies" without 
opening them.

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MBran89793 at aol.com>
To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies


>: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
>
> Skinny
> Dipping
>
>
> An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years.
>
> He  had  a large pond in the back.

From lyon612 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 31 09:19:33 2009
From: lyon612 at verizon.net (Douglas Lyon)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:19:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 2 Seater Hardtop
References: <DA92FC5E1B244988B6694DC54DB43D01@DadsPC>
Message-ID: <B729B4FB560D4EDC9FB64233CE5A668D@lyon1>

Mike,

I'm not sure I understand you.
Are you selling the car, or just the hardtop???

Douglas Lyon
Claremont, CA

'59 BN7


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 11:16 AM
Subject: [Healeys] 2 Seater Hardtop


>I mentioned a short while back that I was considering selling my 2-seater
> hardtop. I've finally decided to part with it and am serving notice to any
> listers that may be interested. I already have heard from several and have
> kept their emails, but this is to confirm that it will be for sale so any
> others that might be interested can be in the hunt.  I'll send a detailed
> email in a couple of days to all who are interested.  The black top can be
> seen at the bottom of this gallery: http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/mybn7
>
> Regards,
> Mike L. 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 10:01:06 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:01:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
Message-ID: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Any input on where to buy new fender side chrome emblems for the big healeys
would be appreciated.  Quality is my main concern.   I have my old ones but
they need a rechrome.
How are the Moss units?

Also I prefer not to remove my lower fenders to install these emblems, any
success stories
on after market adhesives that have worked or even the 2 sided emblem tape
that 3M sells
maybe.

Comments  appreciated,   Mark

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:07:02 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:07:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <4A72EF4C.2030407@comcast.net>
References: <20090730163549.Q9RLF.219811.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
	<d9b7a14d0907310558w45237bf0r3f654697c4910a38@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A72EF4C.2030407@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A7316A6.1000705@comcast.net>

<<A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps 
better.  Grease will eventually attract dust and dirt and get 
gunky--could stop the tumblers from falling properly. >>

Bob is 1000% correct, Tom.  Better take it apart & clean - again<G>!!

Ed

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 10:14:43 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:14:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <4A7316A6.1000705@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090731111443.YU6ME.243407.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

That's not the problem.  It works like a charm.  the problem is when I mount it flush with the door, it is squeezed so much that it can't move.  Loosening the front knob allows it to move freely but then I have a loose lock.  I have added a rubber spacer under the front knob and now it works nicely.  I was wondering if there was a spacer under it originally.

Thanks
tom 
---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote: 
> <<A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps 
> better.  Grease will eventually attract dust and dirt and get 
> gunky--could stop the tumblers from falling properly. >>
> 
> Bob is 1000% correct, Tom.  Better take it apart & clean - again<G>!!
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Jul 31 10:21:53 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:21:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
References: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <E7DB5136E2214FDDA39CD718724C172D@LIFEBOOK>

I believe all the available side spears are from the same source. It's not 
difficult to fit them. A couple of the studs are reachable from inside the 
engine bay to inside the fender. Lying flat on your back, you can reach 
straight up to get the others.

Just make sure you put them on right way around. The thicker part goes to 
the rear.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise


> Any input on where to buy new fender side chrome emblems for the big 
> healeys
> would be appreciated.  Quality is my main concern.   I have my old ones 
> but
> they need a rechrome.
> How are the Moss units?
>
> Also I prefer not to remove my lower fenders to install these emblems, any
> success stories
> on after market adhesives that have worked or even the 2 sided emblem tape
> that 3M sells
> maybe.
>
> Comments  appreciated,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Fri Jul 31 10:22:57 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:22:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3CB65A98-DCE6-4656-9C40-ED71C62DB7EE@cox.net>

I went to check in to a hotel with my family and after taking  
everyone to our room I went back to the front office and said to the  
manager, "I just came back to make sure the porn channel was disabled"

He got all indignant and said "we just just have regular porn, you  
sick bastard!"

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:40:39 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:40:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <20090731111443.YU6ME.243407.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
References: <20090731111443.YU6ME.243407.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
Message-ID: <4A731E87.1000003@comcast.net>

<<That's not the problem.>>

The point IS Tom, it WILL be !!!

Right, Bob<G>?!?!

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:48:24 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:48:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <4A731E87.1000003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <107863854.7393071249058904901.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I just think graphite is more appropriate for this application (I believe it's what locksmiths use). 

Make sure to add Eos or STP for ZDDP. 


bs 


disclaimer: don't use Eos or STP 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "63ahbj7" <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 9:40:39 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question 

<<That's not the problem.>> 

The point IS Tom, it WILL be !!! 

Right, Bob<G>?!?! 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 10:54:52 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:54:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
In-Reply-To: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <5AB092C8-16E4-4CBF-8037-A13E84B3365D@sbcglobal.net>

There are several options of these available. We have both available.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Jul 31, 2009, at 9:01 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> Any input on where to buy new fender side chrome emblems for the  
> big healeys
> would be appreciated.  Quality is my main concern.   I have my old  
> ones but
> they need a rechrome.
> How are the Moss units?
>
> Also I prefer not to remove my lower fenders to install these  
> emblems, any
> success stories
> on after market adhesives that have worked or even the 2 sided  
> emblem tape
> that 3M sells
> maybe.
>
> Comments  appreciated,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomkayb at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 10:56:05 2009
From: tomkayb at comcast.net (Tom Blaskovic)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 12:56:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] good mechanic
Message-ID: <35519945E6414490A66A2BFD97C15996@tomdesktop>

I am looking for a good mechanic in the Morgantown WV, Pittsburg Pa area who
is interested and knowledgeable in working with Big Healeys

Tom Blaskovics
BJ7 Registry
Tomkayb at comcast.net
Happy Healeying


__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 4294 (20090731) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 11:27:33 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:27:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <107863854.7393071249058904901.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <107863854.7393071249058904901.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <743917.22828.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

hesitate to even get into this important subject: but someone needs to use
powdered Teflon--it is white and slicker than graphite; graphite is almost
obsolete. You can get the teflon at Ace hdwr or many many other places. Can't
believe noone has heard of it ??? You can spray it or puff it--depends what
you want.
Have used it in lock tumblers for years.
To:
63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July
31, 2009 12:48:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question

I just
think graphite is more appropriate for this application (I believe it's what
locksmiths use). 

Make sure to add Eos or STP for ZDDP. 


bs 


disclaimer:
don't use Eos or STP 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "63ahbj7"
<63ahbj7 at comcast.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009
9:40:39 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox
Question 

<<That's not the problem.>> 

The point IS Tom, it WILL be !!!
Right, Bob<G>?!?! 
_______________________________________________
Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
rdryman1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Jul 31 11:59:01 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:59:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
In-Reply-To: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F354141F@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

 Mark,
The best fender spears on the market are from Ahead4Healeys in the UK, see
http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/. They are absolutely plain and not that wavy
like from the other sources and the chrome is excellent. They have their own
manufacturer source. They are not cast, but pressed brass. But that is not
visible when they are fitted.
Don't try to clue them on. You can reach the studs from underneath with "long"
arms.
Good luck.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Mark LaPierre
Gesendet: Freitag, 31. Juli 2009 18:01
An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Betreff: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise

Any input on where to buy new fender side chrome emblems for the big healeys
would be appreciated.  Quality is my main concern.   I have my old ones but
they need a rechrome.
How are the Moss units?

Also I prefer not to remove my lower fenders to install these emblems, any
success stories on after market adhesives that have worked or even the 2 sided
emblem tape that 3M sells maybe.

Comments  appreciated,   Mark

From vern at srvinet.com  Fri Jul 31 12:22:54 2009
From: vern at srvinet.com (Vern)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:22:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel removal
Message-ID: <B43F2B4E10E84BD280B598311C117888@kitchen>

Sorry if this looks like more of the same, but
I am currently disassembling my 57 BN4 healey.
In attempting to remove the steering wheel I put on
a little PB Blaster and after a while  the wheel appeared
to  break loose.  It seems loose and moved about a quarter
inch toward off, then hit with a clunk.  just far enough that
with the nut on a few threads it is against the wheel so
I can't pound on it. I can't emagine what could be catching
it.  Anyone had this happen?  I couldn't find anything in
the archives
Vern

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Fri Jul 31 12:33:33 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:33:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F354141F@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
References: <000801ca11f8$1d60df90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F354141F@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <4A7338FD.8090500@htcnet.org>

BYW All of Ahead4healeys parts are available through Bob Yule in 
Ontario.  */http://www.autofarm.net/*

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
>  Mark,
> The best fender spears on the market are from Ahead4Healeys in the UK, see
> http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/. They are absolutely plain and not that wavy
> like from the other sources and the chrome is excellent. They have their own
> manufacturer source. They are not cast, but pressed brass. But that is not
> visible when they are fitted.
> Don't try to clue them on. You can reach the studs from underneath with "long"
> arms.
> Good luck.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/GERMANY
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Mark LaPierre
> Gesendet: Freitag, 31. Juli 2009 18:01
> An: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Betreff: [Healeys] Fender emblem advise
>
> Any input on where to buy new fender side chrome emblems for the big healeys
> would be appreciated.  Quality is my main concern.   I have my old ones but
> they need a rechrome.
> How are the Moss units?
>
> Also I prefer not to remove my lower fenders to install these emblems, any
> success stories on after market adhesives that have worked or even the 2 sided
> emblem tape that 3M sells maybe.
>
> Comments  appreciated,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as javrugtman at htcnet.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 13:03:33 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:03:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <4A731E87.1000003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090731140333.I4TTG.246016.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Huh???

Guess you don't understand.  <G>


---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote: 
> <<That's not the problem.>>
> 
> The point IS Tom, it WILL be !!!
> 
> Right, Bob<G>?!?!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 13:08:41 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:08:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] good mechanic
In-Reply-To: <35519945E6414490A66A2BFD97C15996@tomdesktop>
Message-ID: <20090731140841.9JO95.246094.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Foreign Traffic in Allison Park.  724-449-9999


---- Tom Blaskovic <tomkayb at comcast.net> wrote: 
> I am looking for a good mechanic in the Morgantown WV, Pittsburg Pa area who
> is interested and knowledgeable in working with Big Healeys
> 
> Tom Blaskovics
> BJ7 Registry
> Tomkayb at comcast.net
> Happy Healeying
> 
> 
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
> database 4294 (20090731) __________
> 
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
> 
> http://www.eset.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From drmasucci at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 14:50:38 2009
From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:50:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shrouds
Message-ID: <1268062268-1249073382-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2144668789-@bxe1201.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

There's a couple of rear shrouds on ebay for a good price.

Dave
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Fri Jul 31 15:14:54 2009
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 17:14:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002901ca1223$f39eb3e0$0401a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2>

Marion,

Too late. As a fellow Floridian I take offense to alligator jokes. In the 
future be more careful.

Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/39749
Land O Lakes, Fl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MBran89793 at aol.com>
To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies


>: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
>
> Skinny
> Dipping
>
>
> An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years.
>
> He  had  a large pond in the back.
>
>
> It  was  properly shaped for swimming, so he fixed it up nice with picnic
> tables,  horseshoe courts, and some apple, and  peach trees..
>
> One evening the old farmer  decided to go down to  the pond, as he hadn't
> been there for a while,  and look it  over.
>
> He  grabbed  a five-gallon bucket  to bring back some fruit.
>
> As he neared the  pond, he heard voices shouting and laughing  with glee.
>
> As  he  came closer, he saw it was a bunch of young women  skinny-dipping
> in his pond.
>
>
> He made  the women aware of his presence and they all went to the deep
> end.
>
> One of  the women shouted to him, 'we're not coming out until you leave!'
>
> The old man frowned, 'I didn't come down
> here to watch  you ladies swim naked or make you get out of the pond
> naked.'
>
> Holding the bucket up he said, 'I'm here to
> feed the  alligator.'
>
> Some old men can still  think fast.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
> Steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edic at tampabay.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 16:04:13 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 06:04:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <20090731111443.YU6ME.243407.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
References: <4A7316A6.1000705@comcast.net>
	<20090731111443.YU6ME.243407.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907311504q4b428856s77808642da167394@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

There should be a spacer between the back of the lock and the chrome
finisher plate on the inside of the door, so yes what you did is
correct.  I used a teflon fender washer I bought at home depot and cut
it to fit accordingly.

Also it helps to have the little BSC set screw on the bottom of the
chrome cylinder, but not totally required if missing.

Alan

On 8/1/09, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
> That's not the problem.  It works like a charm.  the problem is when I mount
> it flush with the door, it is squeezed so much that it can't move.
> Loosening the front knob allows it to move freely but then I have a loose
> lock.  I have added a rubber spacer under the front knob and now it works
> nicely.  I was wondering if there was a spacer under it originally.
>
> Thanks
> tom
> ---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> <<A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps
>> better.  Grease will eventually attract dust and dirt and get
>> gunky--could stop the tumblers from falling properly. >>
>>
>> Bob is 1000% correct, Tom.  Better take it apart & clean - again<G>!!
>>
>> Ed
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 17:03:43 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:03:43 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
Message-ID: <c51.53ebf5e4.37a4d24f@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/31/2009 6:09:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:

Also it  helps to have the little BSC set screw on the bottom of the
chrome  cylinder, but not totally required if missing.



If you are striving for a 100 point Concours BJ8 this happens to be an item 
 that I will always check for a possible deduction if it is missing.  

Marion S.  Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee  Member

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Jul 31 17:52:03 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 23:52:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <0A3DCDFA43A6458E85F840FA656A1E55@lyon1>
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
	<0A3DCDFA43A6458E85F840FA656A1E55@lyon1>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W142D6E41BF2EE9B363A06FA5100@phx.gbl>

I don't understand how anyone who is easily offended could be a british car
owner...
Bill Lawrence

> From: lyon612 at verizon.net
> To: MBran89793 at aol.com; tanderson at kkledlighting.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:15:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
> Those easily offended should be advised to delete "Friday Funnies" without
> opening them.
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59 BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MBran89793 at aol.com>
> To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
>
> >: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
> >
> > Skinny
> > Dipping
> >
> >
> > An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years.
> >
> > He  had  a large pond in the back.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Jul 31 18:04:04 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W142D6E41BF2EE9B363A06FA5100@phx.gbl>
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com><0A3DCDFA43A6458E85F840FA656A1E55@lyon1>
	<BAY144-W142D6E41BF2EE9B363A06FA5100@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AAC54AD84394481FBAC5309610E37A4F@GregPC>

Anyone who has shaken their head in amazement with cobbled up repairs on 
their Healey or other collection car may find this page amusing.

I especially like the pictures towards the bottom of the page.

I was sent this link by a Triumph guy--go figure

http://thereifixedit.com/page/3/

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Jul 31 18:08:00 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 00:08:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Windows
In-Reply-To: <8CBDFFC9540D7A0-C68-1A21@WEBMAIL-MZ37.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBDFFC9540D7A0-C68-1A21@WEBMAIL-MZ37.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W7DF00022E3015660626B4A5110@phx.gbl>

Ooops! I thought you said you had a lingerie problem...
That said, real Healeys don't have windows.
Bill LawrenceBN1

> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:47:30 -0400
> From: wwscpo at aol.com
> Subject: [Healeys] Windows
>
> I have a lingering problem with my windows.? I replaced the glass in both
and cleaned up the winding mechanisms.? They worked smoothly and easily when I
put them back.? I added the chrome and rubber seals and I can barely crank the
windows up or down. What could have happened?? The chrome is after market from
a good source, but was very difficult to install, with or without the rubber.
> Your thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Bill Schumann
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 18:21:25 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 08:21:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Windows
In-Reply-To: <8CBDFFC9540D7A0-C68-1A21@WEBMAIL-MZ37.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBDFFC9540D7A0-C68-1A21@WEBMAIL-MZ37.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907311721j91226c5u5db4261dd317be22@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

Your email is sort of unclear.  Did you put rubber in the window
channels or did you just replace the rubber wiper on the chrome spear
(for the window) and the chrome spear is new too?

If you mean the second, I suspect the rubber wiper you bought from
your vendor is probably too big -or- you did not fix the rubber wiper
to the chrome spear correctly with the special little two sided clips
you are supposed to use.

Please explain more...

Thanks,

Alan



On 7/31/09, wwscpo at aol.com <wwscpo at aol.com> wrote:
> I have a lingering problem with my windows.? I replaced the glass in both
> and cleaned up the winding mechanisms.? They worked smoothly and easily when
> I put them back.? I added the chrome and rubber seals and I can barely crank
> the windows up or down. What could have happened?? The chrome is after
> market from a good source, but was very difficult to install, with or
> without the rubber.
> Your thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Bill Schumann
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 19:25:31 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 09:25:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W142D6E41BF2EE9B363A06FA5100@phx.gbl>
References: <c92.4fc129b6.37a4550b@aol.com>
	<0A3DCDFA43A6458E85F840FA656A1E55@lyon1>
	<BAY144-W142D6E41BF2EE9B363A06FA5100@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907311825p7752a5f3u5777e77bcd3313a5@mail.gmail.com>

I was offended one day at a stop light when the guy next to me rolled
down his window and asked "is that a kit car?"

On 8/1/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> I don't understand how anyone who is easily offended could be a british car
> owner...
> Bill Lawrence
>
>> From: lyon612 at verizon.net
>> To: MBran89793 at aol.com; tanderson at kkledlighting.com;
>> healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:15:27 -0700
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>>
>> Those easily offended should be advised to delete "Friday Funnies" without
>> opening them.
>>
>> Douglas Lyon
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>> '59 BN7
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <MBran89793 at aol.com>
>> To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:09 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>>
>>
>> >: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
>> >
>> > Skinny
>> > Dipping
>> >
>> >
>> > An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years.
>> >
>> > He  had  a large pond in the back.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 19:34:05 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:34:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <743917.22828.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <107863854.7393071249058904901.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<743917.22828.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A739B8D.9060404@comcast.net>

Hoo boy .... another controversy brewing:

http://www.scoutorama.com/derby/derby_display.cfm?race_id=1



Richard Dryman wrote:
> hesitate to even get into this important subject: but someone needs to 
> use powdered Teflon--it is white and slicker than graphite; graphite is 
> almost obsolete. You can get the teflon at Ace hdwr or many many other 
> places. Can't believe noone has heard of it ??? You can spray it or puff 
> it--depends what you want.
> Have used it in lock tumblers for years.

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 19:28:56 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:28:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <c51.53ebf5e4.37a4d24f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090731202856.Q8MQ6.238857.root@ispmxfep15-z02>

Good thought Marion and mine IS missing.  What exactly does it screw into, the lock mechanism chamber?  What does BSC stand for and if I don't have that one, what do you use as an alternative?

Thanks
tom 
---- MBran89793 at aol.com wrote: 
>  
> In a message dated 7/31/2009 6:09:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
> healey.nut at gmail.com writes:
> 
> Also it  helps to have the little BSC set screw on the bottom of the
> chrome  cylinder, but not totally required if missing.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are striving for a 100 point Concours BJ8 this happens to be an item 
>  that I will always check for a possible deduction if it is missing.  
> 
> Marion S.  Brantley, Jr.
> Concours Committee  Member
> 
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
> steps! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
> =JulystepsfooterNO115)

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 19:34:50 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:34:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907311825p7752a5f3u5777e77bcd3313a5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090731203450.SHWFI.238956.root@ispmxfep15-z02>

Almost as bad as being asked if it is an MG:):):):):):)



---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote: 
> I was offended one day at a stop light when the guy next to me rolled
> down his window and asked "is that a kit car?"
> 
> On 8/1/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> > I don't understand how anyone who is easily offended could be a british car
> > owner...
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> >> From: lyon612 at verizon.net
> >> To: MBran89793 at aol.com; tanderson at kkledlighting.com;
> >> healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:15:27 -0700
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
> >>
> >> Those easily offended should be advised to delete "Friday Funnies" without
> >> opening them.
> >>
> >> Douglas Lyon
> >> Claremont, CA
> >>
> >> '59 BN7
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <MBran89793 at aol.com>
> >> To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:09 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
> >>
> >>
> >> >: (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
> >> >
> >> > Skinny
> >> > Dipping
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > An  elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several years.
> >> >
> >> > He  had  a large pond in the back.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Jul 31 19:39:18 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 20:39:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0907311504q4b428856s77808642da167394@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090731203918.KQVKO.239043.root@ispmxfep15-z02>

Are you saying that a spacer fits in the hole where the threaded ring is or under the chrome back plate itself?

Thanks
Tom 
---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Tom -
> 
> There should be a spacer between the back of the lock and the chrome
> finisher plate on the inside of the door, so yes what you did is
> correct.  I used a teflon fender washer I bought at home depot and cut
> it to fit accordingly.
> 
> Also it helps to have the little BSC set screw on the bottom of the
> chrome cylinder, but not totally required if missing.
> 
> Alan
> 
> On 8/1/09, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
> > That's not the problem.  It works like a charm.  the problem is when I mount
> > it flush with the door, it is squeezed so much that it can't move.
> > Loosening the front knob allows it to move freely but then I have a loose
> > lock.  I have added a rubber spacer under the front knob and now it works
> > nicely.  I was wondering if there was a spacer under it originally.
> >
> > Thanks
> > tom
> > ---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
> >> <<A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps
> >> better.  Grease will eventually attract dust and dirt and get
> >> gunky--could stop the tumblers from falling properly. >>
> >>
> >> Bob is 1000% correct, Tom.  Better take it apart & clean - again<G>!!
> >>
> >> Ed
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 20:05:44 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 10:05:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glovebox Question
In-Reply-To: <20090731203918.KQVKO.239043.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
References: <ff59076c0907311504q4b428856s77808642da167394@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090731203918.KQVKO.239043.root@ispmxfep15-z02>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907311905n4ed0f0d7h16bc54a26920816b@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

Behind the back plate.  Offhand the spacer would be rectangular, about
1/2" by 1" by about 1/8" or something similar to that.

The set screw is a slotted countersunk BSC or BCY thread (not sure
which).  Actually to correct myself I don't think it is BSC (british
standard coarse) but actually BCY (British Cycle Thread), although the
threading is so short probably any coarse thread screw of a similar
diameter will work in there.

Alan

On 8/1/09, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
> Are you saying that a spacer fits in the hole where the threaded ring is or
> under the chrome back plate itself?
>
> Thanks
> Tom
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Tom -
>>
>> There should be a spacer between the back of the lock and the chrome
>> finisher plate on the inside of the door, so yes what you did is
>> correct.  I used a teflon fender washer I bought at home depot and cut
>> it to fit accordingly.
>>
>> Also it helps to have the little BSC set screw on the bottom of the
>> chrome cylinder, but not totally required if missing.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On 8/1/09, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>> > That's not the problem.  It works like a charm.  the problem is when I
>> > mount
>> > it flush with the door, it is squeezed so much that it can't move.
>> > Loosening the front knob allows it to move freely but then I have a
>> > loose
>> > lock.  I have added a rubber spacer under the front knob and now it
>> > works
>> > nicely.  I was wondering if there was a spacer under it originally.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > tom
>> > ---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> >> <<A (small) shot of graphite powder into the key slot is perhaps
>> >> better.  Grease will eventually attract dust and dirt and get
>> >> gunky--could stop the tumblers from falling properly. >>
>> >>
>> >> Bob is 1000% correct, Tom.  Better take it apart & clean - again<G>!!
>> >>
>> >> Ed
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >>
>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >>
>> >> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>> >>
>> >> http://www.team.net/archive
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>> >
>> > http://www.team.net/archive
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 20:17:50 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 22:17:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box question
Message-ID: <bf0.567cc99b.37a4ffce@aol.com>

(What does BSC stand for and if I don't have that one, what do you use as  
an alternative?)
 
BSC stands for British Standard Cycle. (Check this _BSC screw thread_ 
(http://www.sizes.com/tools/thread_BSC.htm) ) 
 
I don't know where to find any for the glove box lock, but if you do find a 
 source maybe we should buy a "Brazilian" of them. 
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 20:33:20 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 22:33:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box question
In-Reply-To: <bf0.567cc99b.37a4ffce@aol.com>
References: <bf0.567cc99b.37a4ffce@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0907311933o7fd906a6n9ceeac12e97aba4@mail.gmail.com>

I stand corrected, I was right, just my abbreviations wrong!!!

On 8/1/09, MBran89793 at aol.com <MBran89793 at aol.com> wrote:
> (What does BSC stand for and if I don't have that one, what do you use as
> an alternative?)
>
> BSC stands for British Standard Cycle. (Check this _BSC screw thread_
> (http://www.sizes.com/tools/thread_BSC.htm) )
>
> I don't know where to find any for the glove box lock, but if you do find a
>  source maybe we should buy a "Brazilian" of them.
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
> steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
> =JulystepsfooterNO115)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 31 20:38:35 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:38:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel removal
In-Reply-To: <B43F2B4E10E84BD280B598311C117888@kitchen>
References: <B43F2B4E10E84BD280B598311C117888@kitchen>
Message-ID: <BAY130-W112DFDEEBF192A0A1F1D34A4110@phx.gbl>

My BJ8 (with adjustable wheel) has a circular retaining ring that stops the
wheel from just sliding off the splines. Spread it a little, remove it and the
wheel slides off. I hope this is a help on the BN4 as well.
Rich Kahn

> From: vern at srvinet.com
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:22:54 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel removal
>
> Sorry if this looks like more of the same, but
> I am currently disassembling my 57 BN4 healey.
> In attempting to remove the steering wheel I put on
> a little PB Blaster and after a while  the wheel appeared
> to  break loose.  It seems loose and moved about a quarter
> inch toward off, then hit with a clunk.  just far enough that
> with the nut on a few threads it is against the wheel so
> I can't pound on it. I can't emagine what could be catching
> it.  Anyone had this happen?  I couldn't find anything in
> the archives
> Vern
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
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_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 21:07:14 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 22:07:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny - or is it?????
Message-ID: <4A73B162.5000601@comcast.net>

 From a Cal. Spridgeteer, YIKES !!!!!

Ordering a Pizza in 2012



This is absolutely hilarious, but the scary part about it is 
that it's probably not too far away from being reality.

Want to know how to order a pizza in 2012?  Click the link 
and see.

Turn up the volume, listen closely and watch the pointer!


<http://aclu.org/pizza/images/screen.swf>

http://aclu.org/pizza/images/screen.swf

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 21:13:15 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 23:13:15 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <d63.3bb9cee5.37a50ccb@aol.com>

Now that was the funniest of the bunch! 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2009 4:55:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
ynotink at msn.com writes:

I don't  understand how anyone who is easily offended could be a british  
car
owner...
Bill Lawrence

> From: lyon612 at verizon.net
>  To: MBran89793 at aol.com; tanderson at kkledlighting.com;  
healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:15:27 -0700
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
> Those easily offended  should be advised to delete "Friday Funnies" 
without
> opening  them.
>
> Douglas Lyon
> Claremont, CA
>
> '59  BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:  <MBran89793 at aol.com>
> To: <tanderson at kkledlighting.com>;  <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 7:09  AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
>
>
> >:  (I certainly hope that this does not offend anyone.)
> >
> >  Skinny
> > Dipping
> >
> >
> > An   elderly  man in Louisiana  had owned a large farm for several  
years.
> >
> > He  had  a large pond in the  back.
> _______________________________________________
> Support  Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are  subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
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**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Jul 31 22:31:44 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 22:31:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] AOL stuff
Message-ID: <4A73C530.9010608@bradakis.com>

I think I have all the AOL folks reinstated on the list.  What fun.
I do sometimes wonder why I bother, sigh.  But I did get a chuckle out of
one message on another list, not related to the AOL blockage, which I saw
while whacking away on admin stuff.  The body of the mail was:

  A while back Mark posted a note which included a link to PayPal to make it
  easy for donations. I also checked his site for the same info but no joy.
  Anybody have the link?  Thanks


Well, *everybody* has the link - it is included as the first line in
the trailer of each and every message sent to the list.  Some people!


Anyway, if you are subscribed to this list with an AOL address and
don't get this message, let me know ;-)

mjb.

From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Sat Jul 25 05:37:17 2009
From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 07:37:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] VRG Historic Races at NJ
Message-ID: <000001ca0d1c$43f9f320$cbedd960$@com>

Mark Palmer of the VRG asked me to let everyone know about the second annual
VRG Historic Races at New Jersey Motorsports Park.

 I drove a friend's K1 cycle fender Allard there last year and it was a
blast. The track is really set up for our older cars. Big track, fun to
drive and safe. VRG knows how to put on event, they ought to these are the
same guys that have been running The Vintage Festival at New Hampshire
International for the past 7 years, PVGP/VRG Historic Races at BeaveRun for
the last 5 and they added the Jefferson 500 this year. Also been running the
Turkey Bowl forever so Like I said people who know how to put on a fun safe
event. Even if you do not race let your friends know who do and come on out
anyway and meet us. Perhaps you will start!

 

 

 

September 18-20


 

Come join us for the second annual New Jersey Historic Races, on the
Lightning Circuit at New Jersey Motorsports Park!  Last year, we had over
150 entries, making it the largest vintage race of NJMP's inaugural year.  

 

VRG offers the only vintage event on the Lightning Circuit, a fast 1.9-mile
course designed by Carroll Shelby with sweeping turns, some interesting
elevation changes, and the signature  "Lightbulb" banked turn leading onto
the front straight.  Some of the turns are reminiscent of the old
Bridgehampton track, and Mont Tremblant, two of our favorite layouts - this
is a real driver's track!  

 

The convenient location in southern New Jersey can't be beat, it's a short
tow from anywhere in the Northeast or Mid-Atlantic(about an hour south of
Philadelphia, or two hours from New York City).  We'll have tons of track
time during our full three-day event, and a great dinner again this year at
the nearby Millville Army Airfield Museum.  We're working on a special
surprise for Saturday night, too.

 

Don't hesitate to invite your significant other!  There are things to do
right in Millville (the world-class glass museum), good restaurants
downtown, and Atlantic City and the Jersey shore are less than an hour's
drive from the track.  So please send your entry soon - as with all VRG
events, non-members are always welcome!  Entry blanks and additional
information is available on the VRG web site at www.vrgonline.org under
"Events".