From WLLDBL at aol.com Sun Feb 1 00:43:58 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 02:43:58 EST Subject: [Healeys] batteries Message-ID: Len, I suspect, that Interstate and Optima contract out the actual manufacturing of their branded batteries, in the same way that so many bezillion other companies put their own names on products Made in China. Doug ----- Original Message ----- Doug: Interstate Batteries is another battery company and according to their web site is located in Dallas, Texas. To quote them, "Enjoying a reputation for top-quality products, business innovations and consistently reliable service, Interstate Batteries is the No. 1 replacement brand battery in North America. Now over a billion dollar, privately-held corporation, our enterprise continues to thrive on our innovation as well as our good old-fashioned business principles." Johnson Controls shows Optima as one of their products yet the Optima web site makes it sound like a stand alone company headquartered in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I see no mention of Johnson on the Optima web site although it is headquartered in Glendale, Wisconsin, which appears to be about six miles north of Milwaukee. ??? Len **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From Awgertoo at aol.com Sun Feb 1 05:47:40 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 07:47:40 EST Subject: [Healeys] batteries Message-ID: >From the Optima Battery warranty: "OPTIMA will provide arrangements to evaluate the replacement request at our Factory in Aurora, CO." Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://www.dell.com/co ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d hs%26~ck=anavml) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Feb 1 05:57:43 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 07:57:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] batteries In-Reply-To: <48AA9C228B94460A81FB8478055B0046@LeonardPCPC> References: <48AA9C228B94460A81FB8478055B0046@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <046f01c9846c$ac6b0900$05411b00$@net> I have used Interstate Batteries for years. One of the few that still makes batteries with the "ears" for the hold down rods/clamps. One Lister mentioned that after installing a new battery the starter cranked faster. If your starter cranks slowly, be sure to also check to see that the engine ground strap is connected properly. Makes one heck of a difference. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 12:02 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Doug: Interstate Batteries is another battery company and according to their web site is located in Dallas, Texas. To quote them, "Enjoying a reputation for top-quality products, business innovations and consistently reliable service, Interstate Batteries is the No. 1 replacement brand battery in North America. Now over a billion dollar, privately-held corporation, our enterprise continues to thrive on our innovation as well as our good old-fashioned business principles." Johnson Controls shows Optima as one of their products yet the Optima web site makes it sound like a stand alone company headquartered in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I see no mention of Johnson on the Optima web site although it is headquartered in Glendale, Wisconsin, which appears to be about six miles north of Milwaukee. ??? From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Feb 1 08:18:02 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:18:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] batteries References: Message-ID: <7369A5FBB53B4DDFAD7FB4C41573F36D@ophrdc.org> Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded Lucas case. The battery has a 10 year Optima warranty, there is no fussing with an acid battery, no topping up, no gassing, etc. Unscrew any of the Lucas filler caps and there's the bright orange Optima unit inside! Of course lots of warning tags and literature about not adding acid or water to this case! Now if we can only get them to install one of these in the 17L series 6V Lucas case, and another 17L case that is empty except for the terminal connections so it can be installed in series in the car, one on each side a per original, we'd have the problem solved for the 2 seater models. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > >From the Optima Battery warranty: > > "OPTIMA will provide arrangements to evaluate the replacement request at > our > Factory in Aurora, CO." > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://www.dell.com/co > ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d > hs%26~ck=anavml) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 08:38:59 2009 From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 07:38:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Gasoline References: Message-ID: <964715.22985.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com> To complicate matters, I just received notice from both Audi and Porsche recommending only "Top Tier" gasolines. Apparently the regulations that determined how much detergent had to be added to gasoline to be considered "premium" has changed. Most gas has only about one fourth of the previous amount which is leading to clogged injectors in some cars. Google top tier gasoline for more info. Only a few "brand"names qualify including Shell and Chevron. Probably little effect on a needle and seat cars but food for thought. Jim Brown ________________________________ From: "GSFuqua1 at aol.com" To: helyjohn at cablespeed.com; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:09:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gasoline John Snyder, what you say is true however the additives that are put in are usually a dye, a detergent and some type of oxygenate like ethanol or in the past MTBE. Having run refineries, sold & traded gasoline for a long time as well, there is just no additive that is worth 30 cents per gallon. Further when we put them in our LBC's many of those additives are not beneficial to our cars. Ethanol is a big waste in my personal opinion because it takes 3 times the energy to produce it than it gives off. It is also heavy subsidized from the government, which of course means us. It is also a proven fact that gasoline with ethanol will give you less miles per gallon. Again that energy thing. There is also no real reason for the spread or price difference between regular unleaded, mid-grade and premium gasoline. It takes a small amount of extra refining to made the different grades so there is some additional cost but again not what is being charged. Lest I sound negative oil companies have paid the bills for me & my family for 3 generations now. Buy what you are comfortable with or trust. Gary Fuqua **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From jnew at hazelden.ca Sun Feb 1 08:42:36 2009 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:42:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] batteries In-Reply-To: <7369A5FBB53B4DDFAD7FB4C41573F36D@ophrdc.org> References: <7369A5FBB53B4DDFAD7FB4C41573F36D@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <200902011042.36743.jnew@hazelden.ca> Rich, The only site on the Web that I can find is "Antique Auto Battery" in Ohio at www.antiqueautobattery.com, but they list only lead acid batteries (although the banner on their home page says "Ask us about our maintenance free sealed batteries"). Is this the place? If not, do you have the contact info for the supplier you're talking about? John New On February 1, 2009 10:18 am, Rich C wrote: > Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far > as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate > Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a > BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded > Lucas case. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 1 09:24:43 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 17:24:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gasoline In-Reply-To: <964715.22985.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <964715.22985.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4985CCCB.8000807@chello.nl> I would not worry with the old barges we have as long as the octane rating is OK. Get any petrol you like. Where I live (NL) petrol is delivered by two refineries to trucks of all oil brands, the major being Shell, Texaco, BP, Esso and a few smaller brands. These all may or may not add the so called specific dopes. Very often the same dopes are used for more than one brand or all brands. One truck load may provide petrol to stations of several brands. Also if you take samples from various (high volume) petrol stations of one and the same brand, these samples are hardly ever identical or even with the same station a week later the fomulae would be different. There is no way of knowing. There is one advise though: get petrol from a high volume station. Kees Oudesluijs NL jim brown schreef: To complicate matters, I just received notice from both Audi and Porsche recommending only "Top Tier" gasolines. Apparently the regulations that determined how much detergent had to be added to gasoline to be considered "premium" has changed. Most gas has only about one fourth of the previous amount which is leading to clogged injectors in some cars. Google top tier gasoline for more info. Only a few "brand"names qualify including Shell and Chevron. Probably little effect on a needle and seat cars but food for thought. Jim Brown From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Feb 1 10:21:18 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 12:21:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] batteries References: <7369A5FBB53B4DDFAD7FB4C41573F36D@ophrdc.org> <200902011042.36743.jnew@hazelden.ca> Message-ID: John, et al, That's the place. Sorry I misquoted their name. As they state, ask them about their maintenance free sealed batteries. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: "John P. New" To: Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > Rich, > > The only site on the Web that I can find is "Antique Auto Battery" in Ohio > at > www.antiqueautobattery.com, but they list only lead acid batteries > (although > the banner on their home page says "Ask us about our maintenance free > sealed > batteries"). > > Is this the place? If not, do you have the contact info for the supplier > you're talking about? > > John New > > > On February 1, 2009 10:18 am, Rich C wrote: >> Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as >> far >> as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate >> Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a >> BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the >> moulded >> Lucas case. From al at bighealey.org Sun Feb 1 10:37:46 2009 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 12:37:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Optimas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00a401c98493$cc861cd0$65925670$@org> Gary: What kind of transponder are you using on your Healey? Does it help keep you separated from others? :) Al Fuller al at bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimas In a message dated 1/30/09 11:06:18 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > >I need a new battery for my Healey. Anyone have any suggestions? I was > > interested in the sealed Optima but don't know much about it. > Keep one thing in mind: the Optima red is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and I'm not sure the Optima Yellow, which is a deep-cycle but more expensive, will fit (I could be wrong about that, but I know it won't fit in my MGA, though an Optima did. Did... as in past tense. Why? Simply because once you have completely discharged an Optima battery, it won't take a charge again. So if you've got a short somewhere in the system (or in my case a transponder that wasn't wired correctly) and the battery drains, poof, you're out the $150 these things cost. My suggestions: l. buy cheaper batteries -- you can get three for the price of an Optima if you shop around. 2. use a Battery Tender on the battery whenever it's parked in the garage. 3. Make sure you completely switch off the battery whenever the car is parked. 4. All of the above. Just my .02 bucks. Best, Gary From Wilkmanracing at aol.com Sun Feb 1 11:09:52 2009 From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 13:09:52 EST Subject: [Healeys] Subject (Healeys) Batteries Message-ID: >>>>>>>>>>>Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded Lucas case. The battery has a 10 year Optima warranty, there is no fussing with an acid battery, no topping up, no gassing, etc. Unscrew any of the Lucas filler caps and there's the bright orange Optima unit inside! Of course lots of warning tags and literature about not adding acid or water to this case! Now if we can only get them to install one of these in the 17L series 6V Lucas case, and another 17L case that is empty except for the terminal connections so it can be installed in series in the car, one on each side a per original, we'd have the problem solved for the 2 seater models. Rich Chrysler>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Rich I looked at the Antique Battery Supply web site but saw no reference to the Lucas case with Optima battery inside. Is there a secret password on their site to find this information? Bill Wilkman **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Feb 1 11:36:13 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 13:36:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Subject (Healeys) Batteries References: Message-ID: > Hi Rich > > I looked at the Antique Battery Supply web site but saw no reference to > the > Lucas case with Optima battery inside. Is there a secret password on > their > site to find this information? > > Bill Wilkman Bill, I just replied to John New and the entire Healey list stating that their web site is: www.antiqueautobattery.com and that in their text they don't actually state they use the Optima, but they state something like: "ask us about our maintenance free batteries". If you call them they'll tell you about them. Rich From f9cougar at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 11:39:45 2009 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:39:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Headliner for Sale Message-ID: <15619.64875.qm@web34804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Listers - I'll give you first shot at this. It's from a BN6 hardtop. It's complete except for that narrow front piece, and I have the pattern to make another. Probably needs new fabric/ some restoration. It's crated up in my basement. Let know offline if you're interested. Then I'll drag it out into the light and take some pics for you. - John close From f9cougar at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 17:30:31 2009 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 16:30:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Speedo and Tach for Sale Message-ID: <387630.56079.qm@web34807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Another sweet deal for you - Speedo is restored and ready to go. Tach needs restoration. Gold faces. Please contact me offline for pics. - John Close From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 1 18:10:32 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:10:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Gasoline In-Reply-To: <964715.22985.qm@web58604.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <> Well, yes and no Jim, (and Gents)!!! As most of you know (or have realized over the years) I 'service' LBC. As such I also have to work on newer ones than BJ-8 (I enjoy eating) but no 'newer' than 1980. That includes MGBs & Midgets. NO, the "shape of things to come" will NEVER grace my drive!! Just yesterday I answer a 1979 MGB "Pass Smog Test" question as follows: However, in my experience of couple decades: 1] Change oil/oil filter, Air Filter & Spark Plugs JUST prior to going. 2] Fill up with Shell Hi-test. NOTHING else has ever worked for me nor my Customers?!?!? 3] Go for a drive of a 100+ miles or so ONE-WAY. 4] Re-fill with Shell Hi-test. 5] Drive from point X drive DIRECTLY to test station. 6] Do NOT sit 'idling' whilst waiting!! If you don't pass the first time, lean the carb out to point of barely running and try again. The above has also NEVER failed me with both my '70 Caminos!! Ed From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun Feb 1 18:59:21 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 01:59:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Message-ID: Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for disc wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer bearing is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the later bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they cannot be fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 9 From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 1 20:20:46 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 21:20:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Holy SMOKES !!! Message-ID: Anybody one of you Bidding???? http://tinyurl.com/azqfvw Or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageNa me=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=170297708613 Check out the brake lines & carbs!!! And NOT painted underneath?? Don't we have a Frogeye Concours Judge amidst us??? From e-wilkins at cox.net Sun Feb 1 21:01:43 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 20:01:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. Wilko On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for > disc > wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer > bearing > is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the > later > bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they > cannot be > fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 > 9 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Sun Feb 1 21:50:58 2009 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:50:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Gland Message-ID: <001301c984f1$d748b160$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Thanks to all people for all the input into what the gland consists of I am sure I can work something out that will do the job much appreciated. Keith From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 06:41:22 2009 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 08:41:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> References: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> Message-ID: What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely Wright. - Tom On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jnhorn at aol.com Mon Feb 2 10:06:37 2009 From: jnhorn at aol.com (jnhorn at aol.com) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 12:06:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Right hand dash Message-ID: <8CB536FBE604EFD-C94-297@WEBMAIL-DZ08.sysops.aol.com> Does anyone have a right hand dash for a 100/6 or early 3000 that they'd like to sell? I'm doing over a race car and decided to convert it to right hand drive. thanks jon einhorn BJ8 (2) 100-6 From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Mon Feb 2 11:10:57 2009 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:10:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] batteries In-Reply-To: <04FA8925C184467EA6EFC398071CDD64@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <20090202181059.AE50B22DFD1@mpls-qmqp-04.inet.qwest.net> Let's see: 3,000/.2=15,000 178,000/15,000=11.87 You get 11.87 miles per gallon with your Healey? Herb -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 3:51 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries I'm sure we all know that batteries are not the only products that come down the assembly line and end up with different labels. "Store brand" products, mattresses, some automobiles, and gasoline are just a few examples. There are four oil refineries in the San Francisco area operated by Chevron, Valero, Tesoro, and Shell. There are seven additional brands of gasoline sold in my area and I am sure that they obtain their product from one of these refineries. California mandates the basic formula. The only difference is the additives. That is why I have no problem using the lowest priced 87 octane gasoline in my BJ8. In over 178,000 miles of not paying 20 cents more per gallon for something my car does not need, I have 'saved' about $3,000. I have found no negative aspects in doing this. "The First Mrs. Hartnett" (my wife's name for the car) is doing just fine on that diet. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > According to my latest information there are three auto battery > manufacturers in the USA: > > Doug > > **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, > stay > up-to-date with the latest news. > (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as hgmiller3 at qwest.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1924 - Release Date: 1/30/2009 5:31 PM From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Feb 2 11:23:21 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 10:23:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: References: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> Message-ID: <661B5D1B-1870-4241-9980-B421530744D6@cox.net> Margino Vera should have let my forgetting the the "s" on bearings that would have made my grammar at least passable... Wilko On Feb 2, 2009, at 5:41 AM, T W wrote: > What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely > Wright. > > - Tom > > > On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wilkins at cox.net> wrote: >> BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. >> >> Wilko >> >> >> On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: >> >>> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >>> disc >>> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >>> bearing >>> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >>> later >>> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >>> cannot be >>> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >>> _________________________________________________________________ >>> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >>> >> http://windowslive.com/howitworks? >> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 >>> >>> 9 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Feb 2 12:17:11 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:17:11 EST Subject: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff Message-ID: In a message dated 2/2/09 11:06:20 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed > > Margino Vera should have let my forgetting the the "s" on bearings > that would have made my grammar at least passable... > > Wilko > > On Feb 2, 2009, at 5:41 AM, T W wrote: > > > What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely > > Wright. > > > Gosh, can't you guys spell proper names: They are respectively statistician Marge N. O'Vera and staff grammarian I.M. Shirley Wright. Can't you get that straight. ************** Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000022) From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Feb 2 13:24:18 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:24:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 top questions Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502954@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> 1. I ordered some steel rivets for my top frame and the supplier sent me 1/4 inch diameter. The rivets I took out are 5/16. What is original? 2. Brass washers are present with the rivets on the frame. Is that original? Seems like a good idea. 3. On the rear rail J rubber seal, does it get glued to the drain channel or the rail? If it gets glued to the rail, I assume it gets glued after the jillion top clips are in place. Anybody tried straightening a bent tubular bow? Thanks, Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Feb 2 13:25:16 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:25:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Message-ID: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Feb 2 13:34:56 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:34:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502955@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Triumphs need all the help they can get. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 12:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as kendall.freese at aerojet.com http://www.team.net/archive From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Mon Feb 2 13:52:22 2009 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 21:52:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Gary, good question. It's more or less a question of "feeling" and listening to the engine. Not as perfect as an hour or two on the dyno, but it beats the pants off conventional dizzys. If you're unsure about the curve just tune in the one the original one's supposed to have and enjoy the other features like spark balancing, automatic dwell control and driving without bad rotors, condensors, etc. Eric From: Warthodson To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com Sent: 1/30/2009 12:30:11 P.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? If memory serves me right, the 123ignition distributor comes with "multiple choice" of advance curves. Other than a rolling road dyno, how does the average amateur Healey owner pick the best one? Gary In a message dated 1/30/2009 12:19:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, lists at brits-n-pieces.com writes: In case you want a reliable ignition system go for the complete dizzy or a 123ignition. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Feb 2 13:58:04 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 13:58:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electric fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: Not sure that I'm right about this but, I heard/read ? that the cooling fan and associated assembly actually are required for engine balance, not unlike a harmonic balancer. Not sure about that on a 4cyl engine, but that's my recollection. Maybe that will ring a bell with someone?? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 1:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 14:01:36 2009 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:01:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm just sure that her name is Marge Inovera Bob Johnson BJ8 > > Gosh, can't you guys spell proper names: They are respectively statistician > Marge N. O'Vera and staff grammarian I.M. Shirley Wright. > > Can't you get that straight. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Feb 2 14:01:45 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:01:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4097CAF871B2419A9D82752A0147101F@oscar> Road dyno Makes a slick unit one can hook up run down the road and download for analysis. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 1:52 PM To: Warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? Gary, good question. It's more or less a question of "feeling" and listening to the engine. Not as perfect as an hour or two on the dyno, but it beats the pants off conventional dizzys. If you're unsure about the curve just tune in the one the original one's supposed to have and enjoy the other features like spark balancing, automatic dwell control and driving without bad rotors, condensors, etc. Eric From: Warthodson To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com Sent: 1/30/2009 12:30:11 P.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? If memory serves me right, the 123ignition distributor comes with "multiple choice" of advance curves. Other than a rolling road dyno, how does the average amateur Healey owner pick the best one? Gary In a message dated 1/30/2009 12:19:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, lists at brits-n-pieces.com writes: In case you want a reliable ignition system go for the complete dizzy or a 123ignition. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 2 14:14:36 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:14:36 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: References: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> Message-ID: G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0120 0 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Mon Feb 2 14:28:53 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 16:28:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: References: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> Message-ID: Do you have to replace the front bearings if you want to convert a 100-6 to disc brakes?? Or what do you have to replace to convert drum to disc?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 4:15 PM To: 'T W'; 'Eric (Rick) Wilkins' Cc: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_ 0120 0 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 2 14:34:41 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:34:41 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs In-Reply-To: References: <83E9AF4C-9D79-42A4-9E43-EAA5981B4E39@cox.net> Message-ID: <23245A90D4724688801EB42A6936E362@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day No you don't, but it might be easier. Remember the disc wheel fitted 3000s also had front disc brakes as did the many BMC big sedans that also had front disc brakes. However they are probably easier to find in this part of the world than yours. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Taylor, Todd S [mailto:todd.s.taylor at lmco.com] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 8:29 AM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; T W; Eric (Rick) Wilkins Cc: healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Do you have to replace the front bearings if you want to convert a 100-6 to disc brakes?? Or what do you have to replace to convert drum to disc?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 4:15 PM To: 'T W'; 'Eric (Rick) Wilkins' Cc: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_ 0120 0 From shop at justbrits.com Mon Feb 2 15:29:37 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:29:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Holy SMOKES !!! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: HeeHee. Didn't sell at $21,000.00. Wonder what the reserve is?!?! How soon will it be re-listed (this was the 3rd)?? From e-wilkins at cox.net Mon Feb 2 15:29:29 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:29:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <54125445-968F-4017-83FD-4A76A940D734@cox.net> What the heck!? You must be some kind of editor or something. ;) I just pulled the name out of my clouded memory. I've never seen the names in print--only heard them on my car radio. According to their website, we're both wrong. Statistician Marge Innovera Here's the edited staff list (whole list is too long for this mail list): Car Talk's Official Staff Credits Accounts Payable Administrator Imelda Czechs Air-Quality Monitor Carmine Dioxide Appeals Specialist Bud Uronner Appetizer Coordinator Barbara Ganush Appointment Secretary Stu Earley Appointment Secretary II Amadeus O. Early Assertiveness Training Coach Lois Steem Assistant Customer Care Representive Kurt Reply Assistant Director of Moral Support Hugo Gurll Assistant to our Make Up Artist Gladys Radio Assistant Director of Strategic Planning Kent C. Detrees Assistant Disciplinarian Joaquin D'Planque Asst. Fleet Manager Lisa Carr Attorney General Janet Torino Auto-Body Expert James Bondo Automotive Finishes Consultant Rusty Steele Automotive Medical Researcher Dr. Denton Fender Automotive Registrar Megan Model Bean Counter Ed Amame Bolt Tightener Tilda Plierslip Bunji Jumping Instructor Hugo First Broadcast Philosopher Phillip Airtime Caffeine Addiction Counselor Bruno Moore Chief Accountant Candace B. Rittenoff Chief Benefactor Myra Chunkle Chief Cook and Bottle Washer Chef Boyar Ubusy Chief Estimator Edward James Almost Chief Information Officer Otto Delupe Chief Justice Harry Mental, aka Judge Mental Chief Legal Counsel Hugh Louis Dewey of Dewey, Cheetham & Howe Chief Negotiator Bernadette Bridge Chief of Stadium Seating for the Olympics Wayne Back Chief Procrastinator Juan Menudo From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Mon Feb 2 16:35:18 2009 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 17:35:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502955@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502955@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Message-ID: <70FC10E0C7A34F64A24E8033993FBA43@FredLaptop> I've been using an electric fan on my race Healey for many years. Gives a me an extra 29.016532 HP, substantially improved the handling, tire wear, brake wear, and I never break any spokes. Oooops, almost forgot. It really does help on cooling (compared to the fan), especially racing down here in the wonderful Republic of Texas. Another point (even tho' I've been told it's impolite to point), is that if you do sorta', kinda', not really on purpose of course, and entirely due to someone else's fault, scrunch (a techie race term) the front you don't end up with the fan in the radiator. Cheers, Fred Team Healey Texas > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 12:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive > fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley > creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden > on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul From rdavies1 at cox.net Mon Feb 2 16:46:31 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 15:46:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SoCal members interest only- others may delete Message-ID: <529309C63EFC4F61A89D8D10DB100964@OfficeDell> Cars and Coffee in Irvine at the Ford Premier Auto Group, which replaced the Newport Beach Crystal Cove show, has finally limited attendance in the main lot (holds 500) to pre 1978 cars!! Exceptions for rare modern cars will be made on a case by case basis if approved in advance by Freeman via email (don't have it). So if you have not been attending because of the huge numbers of "pimp my ride" Civics with $50k sound systems, now is the time to come on back. I'm told the final straw was a row of dealer cars for sale and a row of 2008 Evos. As a founding member of Crystal Cove I've always said: "If you bought it new and you're still making payments, it ain't a classic". Hope to see you Saturday if it isn't raining too badly (need new wipers). Ron Davies Laguna Hills 67 BJ8 97 DB7 (that can no longer go to C&C) From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Mon Feb 2 17:05:43 2009 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 18:05:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Message-ID: <0EA0EF8567C74FE181554C16BAFA9DFF@FredLaptop> I've been using an electric fan on my race Healey for many years. Gives a me an extra 29.016532 HP, substantially improved the handling, tire wear, brake wear, and I never break any spokes. Oooops, almost forgot. It really does help on cooling (compared to the fan), especially racing down here in the wonderful Republic of Texas. Another point (even tho' I've been told it's impolite to point), is that if you do sorta', kinda', not really on purpose of course, and entirely due to someone else's fault, scrunch (a techie race term) the front you don't end up with the fan in the radiator. Cheers, Fred Team Healey Texas From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Mon Feb 2 17:14:37 2009 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 00:14:37 GMT Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Message-ID: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 2 17:22:38 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 01:22:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <49878E4E.50206@chello.nl> Paul, The gain in power is solely due to the fact that the original fan on the waterpump is removed and not taking up any power. At normal speed the electric fan does (should) not come one as the speed of the car will generate enough flow through the radiator to keep the temperature in check. I shoulod only come one when the car is under extreme load at low speed or at idling when speed (and air flow through the radiator) is zero. The amount of power gained depends on the design of the fan and the engine speed. Generally up to about 6BHP. Kees Oudesluijs NL PG schreef: > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Awgertoo at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:33:12 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:33:12 EST Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Message-ID: In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:16:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kaynmike.bham at juno.com writes: Any ideas? Sure sounds like a blown gasket between 3 and 4. A leakdown test would be pretty definitive but ultimately you are going to have to pull the head anyway to resolve whatever the issue might be. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From Awgertoo at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:39:34 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:39:34 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: Beginning a year or so ago I stopped seeing copies of my own email posts to this list. I seem to get everyone else's posts to the list, including responses to posts that I make so I know mine are going through. The usual explanation is that " It's an AOL thing" and I am wondering if any subscribers who use AOL get copies of their own posts, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Feb 2 17:40:53 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:40:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] batteries In-Reply-To: <20090202181059.AE50B22DFD1@mpls-qmqp-04.inet.qwest.net> References: <20090202181059.AE50B22DFD1@mpls-qmqp-04.inet.qwest.net> Message-ID: <6A24BCB929A44C18970AC4115FE87190@LeonardPCPC> Herb: No. I actually get between 17 and 18 MPG overall, tank full to tank full over time with general driving. On long hauls on the Interstate, I can get up to 25 MPG. The figures I used were based upon my record book. I was trying to keep my e-mail short so I generalized over my 39 years of ownership. I used some fuzzy math. I did not take into consideration that the first two owners drove the car 14,000 before I bought it. Nor did I consider that when I bought the car in 1970, I was paying 27 cents a gallon and not sure if I even had the option of other octanes. I calculated the other way: 178,000 miles / 17 = 10, 470 gallons X .20 = $2,094. I can't find my worksheet for my original calculations but it looks like I either rounded up to the next thousand or used some other figures. Is that fuzzy enough for you? ;-) The whole point of the exercise was to criticize and hold in contempt those who say their Healeys will not run on anything but 200 octane (oops! fuzzy figures again) gasoline sold by XYZ oil company. I was attempting to say that my Healey does not NEED a higher octane at a higher price and therefore, IN MY OPINION (and my OPINION can never be wrong), it is economically foolish to waste the money. I know that others disagree with me. It's their money, they can spend it as they wish. (I wish there was an emoticon for 'tongue in cheek'. ? ) (I am not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herbert Miller" To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" ; "'Healey Mail List'" Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 10:10 AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] batteries > Let's see: > 3,000/.2=15,000 > 178,000/15,000=11.87 > > You get 11.87 miles per gallon with your Healey? > > Herb From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:52:35 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:52:35 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: I never seem to have a problem but we will see if this email is posted Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From Awgertoo at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:54:56 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:54:56 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:52:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Jwhlyadv writes: I never seem to have a problem but we will see if this email is posted Jim-- I see posts from you, plus several AOL users have just advised me they have no problems. Perhaps it is my breath..... Best--Michael **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:56:50 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:56:50 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: You must have done something to upset the major.domo. Probably when you bought the Elva....... Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 17:57:17 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:57:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Mike - Taking a head off the 100 is a really easy job. I could probably have the head off in an hour. 5 min drain the radiator, 10 min remove the carbs (4 nuts, 1 cable), 5 min remove the manifolds, and about 15 min to remove the head, and another 25 minutes for puttering about. It's not a difficult job and can be done in a morning or afternoon, your choice. Take the head off, and check the gasket. If it's fried, get a new one, If not, then take the head to a machine shop and have them crack test the head. If it's not cracked, check the valves and make sure their aren't sticking open (did you install bronze valve guides possibly - if so these have a nasty tendency to stick open?). Any way you cut it the head needs to come off. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:14 AM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com < kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote: > I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great > suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, > etc. > On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have > suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also > checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be > actually > blown. Any ideas? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 17:58:16 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:58:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:57 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mike - > > Taking a head off the 100 is a really easy job. I could probably have the > head off in an hour. 5 min drain the radiator, 10 min remove the carbs (4 > nuts, 1 cable), 5 min remove the manifolds, and about 15 min to remove the > head, and another 25 minutes for puttering about. It's not a difficult job > and can be done in a morning or afternoon, your choice. > > Take the head off, and check the gasket. If it's fried, get a new one, If > not, then take the head to a machine shop and have them crack test the head. > If it's not cracked, check the valves and make sure their aren't sticking > open (did you install bronze valve guides possibly - if so these have a > nasty tendency to stick open?). > > Any way you cut it the head needs to come off. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 From Awgertoo at aol.com Mon Feb 2 17:59:58 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:59:58 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:56:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Jwhlyadv writes: You must have done something to upset the major.domo. Probably when you bought the Elva....... Yes, that's probably it. BTW I have been through my subscription settings and amongst other options the one for me to receive copies was selected--nevertheless I resubmitted it so maybe things will clear up. I'll know in a minute.... Best--Michael **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 18:00:18 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:00:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Email problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Simple - switch to Gmail for the list. Love my Gmail, and you can POP3 it to your computer for no charge. No hate mail Ed, thanks. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:39 AM, wrote: > Beginning a year or so ago I stopped seeing copies of my own email posts to > this list. I seem to get everyone else's posts to the list, including > responses to posts that I make so I know mine are going through. > > The usual explanation is that " It's an AOL thing" and I am wondering if > any > subscribers who use AOL get copies of their own posts, etc. > > Best--Michael Oritt From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Feb 2 18:04:00 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:04:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> I'd bet you have a chunk of head hasket blown out between 3 and 4 bores. When the head comes off, have both the head and the deck checked for truth. I've seen this problem on more than one Hundred, where the head had been made dead true, but nobody checked the deck of the block....equally important. A good friend replaced his head gasket and made sure the head was flat 3 times in 26000 miles. Then we pulled the engine down and checked the deck and found it to be .0035" thou dished. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:14 PM Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 >I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great > suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, > etc. > On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have > suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also > checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be > actually > blown. Any ideas? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Feb 2 18:09:32 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:09:32 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Message-ID: Since we are off topic anyway - check this out. A guy goes to a house to install new windows. Calls one of our fellow Healey owners and tells him "this lady has one of those old sports cars in her back yard like you collect and wants rid of it" Not knowing what it is they are talking about but intrigued none the less he goes out to look at it. Turns out to be this: _Welcome to the history of 1958 Maserati 3500 GT 101.078_ (http://www.maserati3500.com/) These thing never happen to me...... Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Feb 2 18:20:53 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 18:20:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <51E89D22AAA14EF2BF417477B626D2D8@oscar> The fact that you still have some compression in those two holes is indicative of the gasket failing between the two bore holes. With all the plugs out and the engine turning over it will try to compress both holes at the same time. Just put your fingers over the plug holes to confirm. This is very common on the 100 engine. Order a new gasket.. frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 5:15 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 18:23:12 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:23:12 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Email problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you can believe it, a 3500GT Spider was available for sale in the Safeway parking lot near my house in Walnut Creek in 1983. It was sitting in the parking lot with a "for sale" sign. Top was down and completely open so I sat in it and popped the hood - completely looked the thing over. No one worried about vandals then. The guy wanted about $10,000 for it, was in very good running condition and no rust, but paint was a little faded (Maserati dark blue). Daytonas were selling for around $30K at the time. I remember thinking the thing must've been a straight 12 because it had 12 spark plug wires! I couldn't quite figure out how to pay for it and settled on paying $3,000 for my BJ8 instead.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:09 AM, wrote: > Since we are off topic anyway - check this out. > > A guy goes to a house to install new windows. Calls one of our fellow > Healey > owners and tells him "this lady has one of those old sports cars in her > back > yard like you collect and wants rid of it" > > Not knowing what it is they are talking about but intrigued none the less > he > goes out to look at it. > > Turns out to be this: > > _Welcome to the history of 1958 Maserati 3500 GT 101.078_ > (http://www.maserati3500.com/) > > These thing never happen to me...... > > Jim Werner > Louisville, KY > **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. > ( > http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. > net/clk;211531132;33070124;e > ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From stevemickelson at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 2 18:37:11 2009 From: stevemickelson at sbcglobal.net (Steven Mickelson) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 17:37:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <997211.48626.qm@web82503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Sorry...missed the responses from a few weeks ago, but before you pull the head you should squirt some oil in #3 and #4 cylinders and recheck the compression. That might tell you if it could be rings or valves (or both or other). ________________________________ From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Feb 2 18:40:28 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:40:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: I recall reading a book by LJK Setright on the history of Bristol cars, that the engineers there found the fan/waterpump accounted for about 5 HP, which sounds in line with what you mention. Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: "PG" To: "'healeys'" Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 3:25 PM Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive > fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley > creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 18:49:27 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:49:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: A few years ago when I put an electric fan on my BJ8, it was horrible and reduced the cooling capacity over the fan (the pancake motor blocked too much of the radiator). The newer fans have much higher CFMS (and I do believe make a big difference) - provided you get a good quality fan. I recently installed a 11" Spal fan on my Austin A90 and I can tell you the thing is crackers for keeping the car cool in Hong Kong, which is very very hot. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:40 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > I recall reading a book by LJK Setright on the history of Bristol cars, > that the engineers there found the fan/waterpump accounted for about 5 HP, > which sounds in line with what you mention. > > Mirek > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "PG" > To: "'healeys'" > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 3:25 PM > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the >> installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive >> fan) >> has increased their Power by about 7%. >> >> >> >> They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley >> creates >> a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the >> Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. >> >> >> >> Anybody have any thoughts? >> >> >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Mon Feb 2 19:52:05 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 21:52:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive 1/2 a horsepower!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 2 20:00:16 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:00:16 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Mike This is an interesting thread. The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain whatsoever. The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at all. Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water pump sold. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (Where it's 95 F today) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM To: 'PG'; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive 1/2 a horsepower!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul _______________________________________________ From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Mon Feb 2 21:50:26 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:50:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <269068.52803.qm@web52406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Which brings me in to ask: What about a fan w/clutch? Anyone tried that? Of course not to circumvent any persons commission JK --- On Mon, 2/2/09, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know > more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every > electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM > To: 'PG'; 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% > say 10 BHP would have > to be driven by the single "A" sectopm > "V" belt.. > The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of > "A" section belts to drive > 1/2 a horsepower!! > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of PG > Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have > claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of > belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the > waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the > burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Mon Feb 2 23:35:51 2009 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 06:35:51 GMT Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Message-ID: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is limited-work will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will verify the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 00:06:20 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:06:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: I believe you will find the gasket broken. If so, replace. If it breaks again, take the motor out and have the top of the block flattened. On the 100 you definitely want to retorque the head after 500 miles. You will likely find one or two nuts a bit loose, which causes oil leakage. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 2:35 PM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com < kaynmike.bham at juno.com> wrote: > Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is > limited-work > will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I > understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a > new > gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I > should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will > verify > the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this > head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 > miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 From rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au Tue Feb 3 00:31:31 2009 From: rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au (Rod Shepherd) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:31:31 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <748BB508EB074C49BCED55B3E5555E22@rodc151a3a212b> Mike, Head Gasket blowing between cylinders 3 and 4 appears to be the usual occurrence. I strongly suggest a straight-edge check of block and the head in that area. If you have not replaced the head bolts then I also would replace them and retorque the head after 100 miles or so, and do it when hot. Rod Shepherd. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 4:36 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is limited-work will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will verify the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 3 01:36:25 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 09:36:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> The electric waterpump is constantly running and needs power which is supplied by the engine. So you would not gain much if any. The only advantage may be a better design and thus more efficient. The fan is a different story as it not running most of the time. Kees Oudesluijs Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: > G'day Mike > > This is an interesting thread. > > The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many > years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of > coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain > whatsoever. > > The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the > thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a > simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the > Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at > all. > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM > To: 'PG'; 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have > to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. > The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive > 1/2 a horsepower!! > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of PG > Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Tue Feb 3 01:56:15 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:56:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Alan I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well start a new debate. Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users of older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of 100s asked me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page document which was the result of significant testing that they had carried out on older engines. It was titled Valve Seat Recession Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low compression, medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to the lack of lead on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non existent. Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. Regards >While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. > -- John Harper From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 02:05:24 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:05:24 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: John - As always, sage advice. Wasn't sure about the 100, but given your thoughts on cracking, that makes good sense. Actually, on the A90 I didn't put in the unleaded seats on my rebuild - my feeling was that a 6.9:1 compression and single springs on the valves meant that the chance of valve seat recession on the old girl was basically nil. I did, however, put in new exhaust valves and I still toss in some lead substitute from time to time. That being said, with the BJ8 running pretty high compression and higher revs.... I am contemplating otherwise.... ? I will be doing a complete rebuild on it. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 4:56 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Alan > > I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well > start a new debate. > > Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users of > older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of 100s asked > me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. > > Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page document > which was the result of significant testing that they had carried out on > older engines. > > It was titled > > Valve Seat Recession > Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines > > It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low compression, > medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to the lack of lead > on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non existent. > > Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without > changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. > > Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone > to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly > good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve > insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference > fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. > > My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is > happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have > to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. > > Regards From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 3 02:22:36 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 10:22:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <49880CDC.1060300@chello.nl> Alans story is quite correct. It mainly was a scare, which resulted in a lot of extra bussines for the trade, however there were some cars that used inferior cast iron for the heads that were prone to the dreaded valve seat recession, from my mind one was Ford Germany. Thousands of cars were "converted" to lead free or LPG (even worse, hotter) unneccesarily. Another example being old Landrovers. Just leave well alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). The cracking of the head due to retrofitting of valve seats inserts is not unique to the Healey's. In the unlikely event that valve seat recession shows it it is early enough to take steps. I have an old Landrover SIII that has been running on LPG from new (1974), without any modification or trouble from the exhaust valves or seats. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Harper schreef: > Alan > > I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well > start a new debate. > > Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users > of older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of > 100s asked me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. > > Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page > document which was the result of significant testing that they had > carried out on older engines. > > It was titled > > Valve Seat Recession > Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines > > It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low > compression, medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to > the lack of lead on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non > existent. > > Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without > changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. > > Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very > prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to > a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared > beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to > fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. > > My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is > happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would > have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. > > Regards > > >> While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. From shop at justbrits.com Tue Feb 3 02:33:58 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 03:33:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Your 'different' point of view is not far off the mark John, IMHO. AND, please LORD even tho it IS 'sleeping time for majority of Healeys' I HOPE not!! LOL And be quite, Patrick!! There have been a LOT of 'studies' John, like the one you refer to with the same conclusion(s) up to and including OLD Small Block Chevy motors (like the one in my '70 Camino). The "results" all were in the area of the fact that our motors have absorbed/retained 'lead' to the point that Valve Seat Recession is just not going to occur. YMMV & FWIW & blah-blah-blah!!!! !! Ed PS: Oh wait; my current daily driver '70 El Camino (Pics on my site in "Spec. People & Spec. Cars" has just shy of 600 BHP at rear wheels and I don't recall if valve seat were done!?!?!?! From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 3 02:40:32 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:40:32 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> Message-ID: <95D2B480B3104132963630FC60BD042B@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Now I am really confused. Perhaps someone can explain to me in words of one syllable why a variable speed 12v electric motor, in the place of a water pump does not free up power? Sure the electricity has to come from the generator/alternator/battery but I know that my car goes just as well with the lights on as it does with them off. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 7:36 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: 'Michael Salter'; 'PG'; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive The electric waterpump is constantly running and needs power which is supplied by the engine. So you would not gain much if any. The only advantage may be a better design and thus more efficient. The fan is a different story as it not running most of the time. Kees Oudesluijs Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: > G'day Mike > > This is an interesting thread. > > The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many > years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of > coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain > whatsoever. > > The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the > thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a > simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the > Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at > all. > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 3 03:20:34 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 11:20:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> <5DF51BE03E1349449F9D74B15D981972@PatrickQuinnPC> <4988153D.8090803@chello.nl> Message-ID: <49881A72.3060209@chello.nl> A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. Simple mathematics. Kees Oudesluijs From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 3 04:50:00 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 06:50:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Paint question Message-ID: <001401c985f5$8c043ee0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear coat , after some initial sanding and panel leveling. My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they are installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot them with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that needs to be done. I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I am not a painter. Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. Thanks for any comments, Mark From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Feb 3 05:55:31 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 05:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: no compression 100 Message-ID: <177401229B5745B5AA32E9160EE64E5E@oscar> Guys, I've posted a picture of this at http://porterbikes.com/ As to John's discussion (below) let me say this.. Before the introduction of unleaded fuel, I could pretty much be assured that on any given week I'd be doing at least one valve job. It was any shops best bread and butter repair. Ah, since unleaded, I might do a valve job once or twice a year! And they are usually unrelated to the fuel issue. So, while valve seat recession is still possible, it hasn't proven to be the fault that was predicted. The symptoms stated in the e-mail do not reflect a cracked head either. Most of those problems are seen as very slight seepage through the head to the rocker deck and I've never seen one that causes dramatic compression losses. As a helpful hint to all. Any time your engine falls on its nose, save a rod through the block, duh, check the compression first! It's so basic it's often overlooked. You can see what is the state of combustion in each cylinder instantly and quickly deduce all sorts of possibilities..IMHO Dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ 100s that I know are still running around without changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. Regards From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue Feb 3 06:04:36 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:04:36 EST Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Message-ID: In a message dated 2/3/2009 1:38:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, kaynmike.bham at juno.com writes: Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, ------------------------------------------- Mike-- If the gasket blew it did so for a reason. You'll need to check both the head and deck for flatness. Also check the studs to see if they are stretched, bent, worn, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From bjcap at optonline.net Tue Feb 3 06:22:21 2009 From: bjcap at optonline.net (Carroll A Phillips) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 08:22:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] re paint question Message-ID: <1B80CF0F78114602AAB8F0C63791FF9A@carrolls> Mark, Depends on whats underneath your paint now, how thick, other coats(types of paint) ,extensive body work? surface rust underneath that due to poor prep? I personally would not keep overcoating layers, and if Im reading your post correctly, would NOT paint an extra layer to see what needs to be sanded, filled then another top coat of 4 more layers base/clear. Seems to me someone needs to asses your current sheetmetal condition first,then make a decision, possibly a monetary one ($$$) on how far down you want to go,and level of body/paintwork. There are excellent writeups of the first steps recently done in the Austin Healey Magazine By Roger Moment and Gary Anderson Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 3 06:40:51 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 14:40:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49884963.9070202@chello.nl> You do not! It could be that that is all that is needed, but you have to investigate if a warped head or block may be the cause. When the head is removed, check that both the head and the block are absolutely true. Best to have both surfaces machined / skimmed as it is likely that the head has been removed and the head gasket replaced a number of times during the last 40/50 years, which makes warping of one or the other quite likely. Kees Oudesluijs NL Awgertoo at aol.com schreef: > In a message dated 2/3/2009 1:38:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > kaynmike.bham at juno.com writes: > > Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 > a new > gasket is all that would be required, > ------------------------------------------- > Mike-- From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 06:54:59 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:54:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <49884963.9070202@chello.nl> References: <49884963.9070202@chello.nl> Message-ID: A word of caution here - Skimming the block and head on a 100 is only advisable as a last resort. The water jacket interface between the head and block are cut at an angle, this means if you skim the block too much the water holes start moving out of alignment with the gasket and head. Not a huge issue but if you intend to keep your car for a lifetime, skim the block only as a last resort. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:40 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > You do not! > It could be that that is all that is needed, but you have to investigate if > a warped head or block may be the cause. > When the head is removed, check that both the head and the block are > absolutely true. Best to have both surfaces machined / skimmed as it is > likely that the head has been removed and the head gasket replaced a number > of times during the last 40/50 years, which makes warping of one or the > other quite likely. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Tue Feb 3 07:08:53 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:08:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <49884963.9070202@chello.nl> Message-ID: I fully agree with Alan and will also add that if anything significant is skimmed from the top of the block then you need to check the clearances of the pistons when at Top Dead Centre. With a standard head gasket you should be able to get away with a few thou. of piston top being proud of the block but any more and you need to check that the piston will not get too close to the centre of the head's heart shape. Compression Ratio will be increased when either the block or head are skimmed so it is best to take off as little metal as possible Regards >A word of caution here - > >Skimming the block and head on a 100 is only advisable as a last resort. >The water jacket interface between the head and block are cut at an angle, >this means if you skim the block too much the water holes start moving out >of alignment with the gasket and head. Not a huge issue but if you intend >to keep your car for a lifetime, skim the block only as a last resort. > >Alan > >'52 A90 >'53 BN1 >'64 BJ8 > > -- John Harper From dan at warner-associates.com Tue Feb 3 08:30:50 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:30:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Paint question In-Reply-To: <001401c985f5$8c043ee0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <1C3878CBF79B42D3AC8041B425462A2A@DANSTROM> My paint shop used polyurethane without a clear coat finish and it came out with a perfect finish-as good as the surface on any new car today I would say. I cannot understand for the life of me, after looking at the finish on my car, why you would need the clear coat. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:50 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Paint question What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear coat , after some initial sanding and panel leveling. My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they are installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot them with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that needs to be done. I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I am not a painter. Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. Thanks for any comments, Mark Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 09:28:58 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:28:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation Message-ID: <817642.89888.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I purchased a gear reduction starter from British Starters and I tried fitting it to the bell housing and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 09:34:58 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:34:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] degreaser Message-ID: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 09:38:37 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:38:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Message-ID: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Tue Feb 3 09:53:03 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 11:53:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] degreaser In-Reply-To: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've heard that you can use diet coke or pepsi and citric acid to remove rust etc.. then naturalize with baking soda. Anybody ever tried this?? Sounds cheap enough... Can this be used as a degreaser too?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:35 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] degreaser I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Tue Feb 3 10:01:01 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 9:01:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] degreaser In-Reply-To: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090203120101.EDQRQ.4315458.root@mp15> Jorge, I would recommend that you use a citric based grease buster. This is available by the gallon and spray at any auto parts store or chain. I would pull the car onto a grassy area let it warm slightly then spray the area to be cleaned heavily with the grease buster. Let it sit for 5 minutes and repeat. You can brush caked areas then rinse with plain water. Keep repeating until satisfied. This stuff is not harsh on the environment and works incredibly well. Doing it on a lawn will keep from having to clean up your driveway or garage floor. Tracy ---- Jorge Garcia wrote: > I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 3 10:14:59 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:14:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090202.223551.4832.0@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <197511E0-049B-402C-BE56-E4EEE3AFDA80@sbcglobal.net> The famous 100/4 head gasket, A common problem if you have two low compressions next to each other you will find a blown head gasket between those two cylinders. Now you have two choices remove head, surface and install original style copper head gasket and studs and still have a problem. Two remove head, surface head and install modern style multi steel head gasket and hard studs and no more problems. The 100/4 head is common for leaks, cracks and water leaks right along the engine id tag. While head is off I would recomend that you strip head, have checked for cracks, install new hard seats, valves and springs, we always install new bronze guide inserts into the original cast guides. This way you get the advantage of the bronze guide and not the problems of sticking valves that you get when installing a new bronze guide. Like i have said many times would you rather be out driving the car or working on it. Do it right the first time. Unless you just like working out and lifting that hunk of iron on and off. Alan, I would like to see how you get these times, 5 minutes jack up car, find jack stands, get drain pan, drain coolant 10 minutes remove carbs 5 minutes remove rusty manifold nuts to pipe and do not break any studs, remove intake and exhaust manifolds 15 minutes remove rocker assy, push rods, radiator hoses, hood latch assy, head nuts, heater hoses, find help to lift the 80 pound head and remove with out damaging the front shroud. Total 35 minutes In a perfect world with all the tools sitting right there, no rust and in a hurry possible but that never happens. Good luck David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 3, 2009, at 6:35 AM, kaynmike.bham at juno.com wrote: > Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is > limited-work > will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I > understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 > and 4 a new > gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were > intact I > should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) > Will verify > the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I > had this > head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST > @ 500 > miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 10:34:10 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:34:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Message-ID: Guys Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in the rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and the pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath the dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both and it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; file the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that takes the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into the hole. Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. thanks Andy _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get started! http://www.download.live.com/ From jculphealey at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 10:38:08 2009 From: jculphealey at yahoo.com (Jim Culp) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:38:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] New Austin Healey group on Gather dot com Message-ID: <538912.23793.qm@web46309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello all, I have started an Austin Healey group on Gather.com. For those of you that don't know, Gather is similar to Facebook, but the site is focused on like-minded groups of people with similar interests rather than simply "friends" that you know like Facebook. Anyway, if you are a Gather member, please join the group at: http://ahas.gather.com/ Cheers!, Jim Culp From bbb11489 at azboss.net Tue Feb 3 10:45:36 2009 From: bbb11489 at azboss.net (Russ Staub) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 10:45:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Hi all, Well, this is a bit embarrassing, but I had a similar problem to Mike's and thought maybe coming clean to the list might in some way, some day, save some one a bit of grief or shorten the problem solving procedure on their 100. A couple of weeks ago, I had similar problems with my newly restored Austin Atlantic (A90 engine, same as the 100). I was going uphill however, and with greatly reduced power (apparently running on 2 cylinders), I had to pull over. She was still idling roughly, and I saw steam (white vapor) coming out of the tailpipe. Shut her off immediately. The engine was still quite cool, so no overheating involved. The problem was a VERY blown head gasket, if there is such a thing. As Rich points out, a chunk of gasket was missing between # 3 & 4 cylinders. Turns out the head was inadvertently torqued incorrectly (only 55 ft lbs), when it should have been 70 to 75 ft lbs. The workshop manual I had inherited from a previous owner had a handwritten note indicating the 55 ft. lbs. for the head nuts, and the mechanic working on the car did as it said. I don't know how this could have worked for the previous owner, but that's what it said. I have seen slightly leaking head gaskets, but never one that was actually missing material between the cylinders. And of course, as Mike's low compression readings suggest, it almost always occurs between #'s 3 and 4 on this engine. I also have a BN2 Healey 100, and it seeps ever so slightly along the head gasket line in the area of 3 and 4. My Healey has been this way for years, and many miles in this condition, so I don't worry about it. The Atlantic however, was another story. Because of the missing gasket material (melted?), we re honed the cylinders, re lapped the valves (some copper was found between one and its seat), drained and replaced the oil, drained and flushed the cooling system about 5 or 6 times, etc., etc. We wanted to be sure we didn't have any additional problems from the missing copper section on this go-around. Torqued, and later re torqued (hot) to 73 ft. lbs. My mechanic, by the way, believes in re torquing iron heads hot, and aluminium heads cold. He has a good bit of experience with both. Regards, Russ Staub '50 Atlantic '56 BN2 '67 BJ8 '60 Bugeye Mesa, AZ Rich C wrote: > I'd bet you have a chunk of head hasket blown out between 3 and 4 > bores. When the head comes off, have both the head and the deck > checked for truth. I've seen this problem on more than one Hundred, > where the head had been made dead true, but nobody checked the deck of > the block....equally important. A good friend replaced his head gasket > and made sure the head was flat 3 times in 26000 miles. Then we pulled > the engine down and checked the deck and found it to be .0035" thou > dished. > > Rich Chrysler From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Feb 3 10:48:45 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:48:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans References: Message-ID: Andy, Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings. In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to the seat flange. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "andy pole" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 12:34 PM Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in > the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and > the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath > the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both > and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; > file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that > takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into > the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get > started! > http://www.download.live.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Feb 3 10:52:45 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:52:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] degreaser In-Reply-To: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150296B@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Jorge, Anything but Easy-Off. It will ruin some of the components. A club member tried it and learned the hard way. Gunk brand has always served me well. Brush on some kerosene first also helps. Hot water helps in the rinsing. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 10:58:46 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:58:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Rich Just wanted to double check before I get the grinder out! Why in the h*ll do they press a new seat pan that will not fit within a new pressed surround, its mad. I spent aes as well making a template out of card to get the holes in the right position for the studs (especially as the studs are not parallel and you need the larger hole to get them aligned) thanks again Andy> > Andy,> > Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! > As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are > replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as > indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently > to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings.> In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the > openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the > front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the > surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to > stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to > the seat flange.> > Rich Chrysler _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get started! http://www.download.live.com/ From javrugtman at htcnet.org Tue Feb 3 11:02:22 2009 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 13:02:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498886AE.4050704@htcnet.org> This was a major headache on my restoration. The entire seat pan area had to be replaced, and since none of the usual suspects had the entire piece, I had to combine the rear section from the Nocks with a cut off bottom section from HS. Of course the pans would not fit. After much grinding, and unprintable comments, and cutting off the studs and re welding new ones, they finally fit reasonably well. Some therapeutic assistance from many beers is needed. Some of the relevant photos are on my Flicker page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dryview/sets/72157609302724320/ John BJ8s andy pole wrote: > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy > _ From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com Tue Feb 3 11:15:02 2009 From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:15:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007c01c9862b$55f07ef0$01d17cd0$@com> Andy, I had the same problem on my BJ7. I got a new seat surround (the horizontal part from between the wheel arches where the seat pans fit) from AH Spares a few years back. The steel seat pans would not fit in it. I had to grind a substantial amount of metal away from the pan surround, and in essence, make the interior diameter of the seat pan surround larger. The seat pans fit much better, but still not right. More bending, grinding, shaping and padding will be in order. Randy Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ7 60 BT7 66 Cobra replica 06 Mini Cooper S -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:49 AM To: andy pole; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Andy, Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings. In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to the seat flange. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "andy pole" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 12:34 PM Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in > the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and > the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath > the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both > and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; > file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that > takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into > the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy From bj8Healey at msn.com Tue Feb 3 11:16:49 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:16:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Message-ID: Jorge et al; Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to protect not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; preferably where there is a small grade; 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of kitty litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, 3. minimize the water use, 4. add more absorbent as needed; 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 11:27:46 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 10:27:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <471272.45190.qm@web52412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Amen, thank you brother James Best JK --- On Tue, 2/3/09, James Sailer wrote: > From: James Sailer > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > To: "Healey List" > Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 1:16 PM > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a > method to protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the > environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or > other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of > large bags of kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and > throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dgay at simoncontractors.com Tue Feb 3 11:48:32 2009 From: dgay at simoncontractors.com (Dave Gay) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:48:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser In-Reply-To: <471272.45190.qm@web52412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <471272.45190.qm@web52412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6E279C1142B21349A389D7867D0E55DA0847B9@POSTMAN.simons.com> Use one of the cleaners such as "Fast Orange". We use a similar product from Zep to clean the asphalt off our pavers and asphalt distributers. Will usually take several applications and a stiff brush unless you have a good, heated, power washer. After the first application, use a scraper to capture a majority of the removed material. Dispose of properly. Subsequent applications can be washed off with water. The material washed off will be, more or less, "neutralized" by the cleaner and the quantity will be far less than that which naturally erodes off the street in front of your house in a day. The stuff is bio-degradable and comes in handy as a bug killer for that occasional critter that wanders across the garage floor. Dave -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jackson Krall Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:28 AM To: Healey List; James Sailer Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Amen, thank you brother James Best JK --- On Tue, 2/3/09, James Sailer wrote: > From: James Sailer > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > To: "Healey List" > Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 1:16 PM > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a > method to protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the > environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or > other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of > large bags of kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and > throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dgay at simoncontractors.com http://www.team.net/archive From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Feb 3 12:14:27 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:14:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser In-Reply-To: <6E279C1142B21349A389D7867D0E55DA0847B9@POSTMAN.simons.com> References: <471272.45190.qm@web52412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <6E279C1142B21349A389D7867D0E55DA0847B9@POSTMAN.simons.com> Message-ID: <3303E36850C146B0894D614741832CA3@LeonardPCPC> I tried Castrol Super Cleaner, Cleaner-Degreaser, Biodegradable, that I purchased at Harbor Freight several years ago. As I recall, it wasn't very effective on the grease on my engine but it did desolve the paint on the valve cover. Repainting the valve cover was another one of those added jobs necessary due to "unintended consequences" (e.g. I was only going to do a minor tuneup but I noticed that the radiator was leaking. I removed it then I saw .......etc., etc., .... ) ;-) I am back using concentrated Gunk mixed with cleaning solvent per product instructions. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 12:22:21 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:22:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] degreaser Message-ID: <713536.79082.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thank you for all the great responses to my degreaser question and Easy Off in particular. My car is immobile at the moment awaiting the installation of the new starter so all degreasing has to be done in situ in the garage. I don't have the luxury of using a water hose to remove excess degreaser because I will get everything else in garage wet. I have used degreasers in the past but they didn't get to the areas now exposed by the removal of the starter and the spin-off fuel filter. I will overlook the caked grease for now and once the car is mobile I will try some of your suggestions. Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 12:36:46 2009 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:36:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation References: <817642.89888.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <37569.71086.qm@web83906.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Jorge, I also purchased from British Starters, had the same issue with mounting. Simply take the mounting adaptor off the starter and rotate the stater to a position that will fit. The mounting plate is for many different applications and of course they don't set up the starter for a Healey. It may take a couple of tries but it does fit, I managed to get right in about two attempts, for me that was good. Bob ________________________________ From: Jorge Garcia fortee9er at yahoo.com I purchased a gear reduction starter from British Starters and I tried fitting it to the bell housing and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 3 14:18:00 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:18:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] degreaser In-Reply-To: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <397328184.2878961233695880524.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I've had good results with 'Kreen' from Kanolabs (the same people who make Kroil). Silly names, good products: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Of course, I get a massive commission as well ;) bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2009 8:34:58 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] degreaser I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 3 14:22:53 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:22:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] degreaser In-Reply-To: <397328184.2878961233695880524.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2035946187.2881921233696173996.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> My bad--the external cleaner is called "Floway" (Kreen is for internal cleaning). bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: fortee9er at yahoo.com Cc: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2009 1:18:00 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser I've had good results with 'Kreen' from Kanolabs (the same people who make Kroil). Silly names, good products: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Of course, I get a massive commission as well ;) bs From gvernau at containerhouse.com Tue Feb 3 14:23:26 2009 From: gvernau at containerhouse.com (G Vernau Sr) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:23:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation (Jorge Garcia) Message-ID: <20090203212742.77802187870@autox.team.net> Jorge- I don't remember the 'clock' position but it fit on mine with plenty of clearance and no shims required. Been working great for several years. Good luck- George Vernau Sr 1967 BJ8 From gvernau at containerhouse.com Tue Feb 3 14:31:24 2009 From: gvernau at containerhouse.com (G Vernau Sr) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:31:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Positive ground alternator- Jorge Message-ID: <20090203213540.92AF1187669@autox.team.net> Jorge- Try this- I haven't bought one yet but will if my generator ever fails- http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=135&catid=2&ret=catalog.php%3Fcategory%3D2 Good luck, George Vernau Sr '67 BJ8 From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com Tue Feb 3 14:37:21 2009 From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:37:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] driving lights questions! Message-ID: <001301c98647$99b5d380$cd217a80$@com> Fellow Healeyoids, Im progressing fairly well on my BJ7. It has been seven years in restoration. I just hooked up a stereo last week. I built two 5 x 5 inch boxes that are 2 > inches deep. I installed 4 inch speakers with a good frequency response. I bolted them up under the dash against the lateral running air box. I hooked up my I-Pod and it sounds great,..Ramones, Ventures, Sex Pistols, Doors. Granted, I could build a sub woofer then cover it with matching black vinyl and put it in the back seat area but this is good for now. Now, since Im in the mindset for doing electrical work, I want to hook up some driving lights. Mo** has them for $100 each, the 5 inch spot light type that are Lucas copies. Are these any good or cheap Chinese copies? Or I could order from The Cape and get 5 inch Lucas SLR576 lights for approx. 85 pounds or $118 US. I think that the latter would be the better choice. I was wondering what others thought?????????????? Any experience with these? I plan on running a driving light relay and switch system, not hooked to the high-beam wire. Im not going to have a bumper on the front for a while. It ruins the lines of the Healey in my opinion. I will run rally bumper over-riders on the back. Also, I split a couple of old mangled bumper brackets in half this morning and straightened them out. I then cut the outside 3 or so inches off. Then I welded a 1 = inch piece on the end of the bracket and perpendicular to the bracket. This looks just like what some Healey places sell for $115 or so per pair. Now a little paint in body color to blend them in and Im done. Thanks! Randy Healey Archaeologist healeyarchaeology.blogspot.com 63 BJ7 60 BT7 66 Cobra replica 06 Mini Cooper S From mgcharlie at comcast.net Tue Feb 3 15:02:31 2009 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 17:02:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] driving lights questions! In-Reply-To: <001301c98647$99b5d380$cd217a80$@com> References: <001301c98647$99b5d380$cd217a80$@com> Message-ID: <4988BEF7.8030406@comcast.net> Randy, The Moss copies that I bought a few years ago were identical to the originals to the point where parts were interchangeable. In other words, they are excellent. So if they are still the same, there is no need to pay any more or pay more for shipping from the UK. At the time you could buy parts from Moss too and I used those to rebuild some original lamps. Charlie Randy Dickson wrote: > Fellow Healeyoids, > > > > Im progressing fairly well on my BJ7. It has been seven years in > restoration. I just hooked up a stereo last week. I built two 5 x 5 inch > boxes that are 2 > inches deep. I installed 4 inch speakers with a good > frequency response. I bolted them up under the dash against the lateral > running air box. I hooked up my I-Pod and it sounds great,..Ramones, > Ventures, Sex Pistols, Doors. Granted, I could build a sub woofer then > cover it with matching black vinyl and put it in the back seat area but > this is good for now. > > > > Now, since Im in the mindset for doing electrical work, I want to hook up > some driving lights. Mo** has them for $100 each, the 5 inch spot light > type that are Lucas copies. Are these any good or cheap Chinese copies? Or > I could order from The Cape and get 5 inch Lucas SLR576 lights for approx. > 85 pounds or $118 US. I think that the latter would be the better choice. > I was wondering what others thought?????????????? Any experience with > these? I plan on running a driving light relay and switch system, not > hooked to the high-beam wire. > > > > Im not going to have a bumper on the front for a while. It ruins the lines > of the Healey in my opinion. I will run rally bumper over-riders on the > back. > > Also, I split a couple of old mangled bumper brackets in half this morning > and straightened them out. I then cut the outside 3 or so inches off. Then > I welded a 1 = inch piece on the end of the bracket and perpendicular to the > bracket. This looks just like what some Healey places sell for $115 or so > per pair. Now a little paint in body color to blend them in and Im done. > > Thanks! > > > > Randy > > > > Healey Archaeologist > > > > healeyarchaeology.blogspot.com > > > > 63 BJ7 > > 60 BT7 > > 66 Cobra replica > > 06 Mini Cooper S > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Feb 3 15:22:28 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:22:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser References: Message-ID: I agree James, you wrote: ... how about a method to protect not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment When I have a major degreasing job to deal with, I generally lay down plastic, as James suggests, then lay many layers of newspaper as an absorbent. I then scrape off as much as I can with a selection of old putty knifes (paint scrapers), and then do the final clean with mineral spirits and a stiff brush. I then pull the plastic and soiled newspaper out from under the project and, if I have time and space, and if it is summer (I am in Canada), I leave the whole mess sit for a while to let the solvent volatize off. I try to get the as much of the old greasy grit to the hazardous waste disposal, but they usually tell me to stick it in the garbage, from which it unfortunately goes into the landfill. I also agree with the earlier comment about the Easy Off oven cleaner - absolutely nasty stuff and very, very hard on the hands if you get any on you - if you ever use it wear rubber gloves and safety glasses. The only application I use it for is getting burned on oil off the chrome pipes on my Velocette (motorcycle) - with a bit of elbow grease - it is pretty good for that. cheers, Mirek From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue Feb 3 15:58:21 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:58:21 EST Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation Message-ID: In a message dated 2/3/2009 11:29:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, fortee9er at yahoo.com writes: and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks ------------------------------------------- Jorge-- I have gear reduction starters fitted to my 100 and my wife's 3000. In both cases I found that there was only one "clock" position that allowed clearance of the engine and the toebox--it is close but should be there somewhere. I initially had to fit some shims (cut from suspension shims, but aluminum cans work just fine) to my wife's car to get the gear to engage/disengage cleanly but later found that the problem was due to the ring gear's having become misaligned which ultimately required pulling the engine to fix, but that's a whole nother story. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 16:05:04 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 07:05:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Paint question In-Reply-To: <1C3878CBF79B42D3AC8041B425462A2A@DANSTROM> References: <001401c985f5$8c043ee0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> <1C3878CBF79B42D3AC8041B425462A2A@DANSTROM> Message-ID: Putting clear coat gives any paint job "depth" and when you see super shiny show cars, its because of clear coat. If you want a more original, normal finish, no clear coat. If you want people to go "wow", then clear coat. Your car won't look original with a clear coat. On 2/3/09, Dan Stromquist wrote: > My paint shop used polyurethane without a clear coat finish and it came out > with a perfect finish-as good as the surface on any new car today I would > say. I cannot understand for the life of me, after looking at the finish on > my car, why you would need the clear coat. > Dan > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:50 AM > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Healeys] Paint question > > What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear > coat > , after > some initial sanding and panel leveling. > > My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with > polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they > are > installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot > them > with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. > > He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that > needs to be done. > > I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I > am > not a painter. > > Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. > > Thanks for any comments, Mark > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From prafe at aol.com Tue Feb 3 16:49:10 2009 From: prafe at aol.com (prafe at aol.com) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? From e-wilkins at cox.net Tue Feb 3 17:00:31 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:00:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <84613404-0643-445C-A693-7E5F436AF57E@cox.net> I've seen 'em. Don't know of any issues. I've got 'em on my BN6 Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 3:49 PM, prafe at aol.com wrote: > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bjcap at optonline.net Tue Feb 3 17:29:04 2009 From: bjcap at optonline.net (Carroll A Phillips) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 19:29:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] re paint question Message-ID: <131C184775C24CF38B83B236320D92A8@carrolls> >From my experience on clearcoat is this,(for vintage cars) basecoat requires a clearcoat, usually metallic paints on our vintage cars cannot be replicated with out going this modern route. Clearcoating over a single stage to give depth is the easyway out for the painter not wanting to go the extra mile for the high gloss depth look ( not correct for our cars anyway) but most like a really deep shine. For the vintage old enamel look, go single stage urethane (durability)(also only solid colors) any metallics you will need base/clear. Remember clearcoats will also over repeated washes start to show more haze than a comparible singlestage job. Id rather have the least amount of material on my car doing its job anyway. Carroll From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 18:08:01 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:08:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Message-ID: Russ, et. al., There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the correct torque setting for head nuts for the 100. This confusion is not helped by the fact that neither the factory workshop manual for the 100 nor the A90 specifies this. That being said, I have two other publications, and they both clearly state that this head should be torqued to 65 ft-lbs. I have been told to torque to 75 ft - lbs by several people as this is what is used on the 6-cylinder motor, but for the 100 motor it is only 65 ft. lbs. These are the two publications I am talking about, which I have found VERY useful over the years: 1) Glenn's Austin and Austin Healey. It's this book that details many of the detailed dizzy, carb and engine settings & equipment for the Healey 100 & 6 cyl, as well as Austins with A-series motors. Very useful if you can get an old used one 2) Austin cars by TBD Service - This book covers all post war Austins (except AH's) and has a wealth of info for any A90 owner. Great thing is this book is very small and can be put in the glove box for easy reference. 75 ft-lbs should be perfectly fine, but the only downside of over torquing on the 100 motor is over time the metal around the studs will start pulling up. This can usually be fixed by drilling little bevels in the stud holes on the block but if it can be avoided with proper torquing, all the better. One thing to note - compression on the A90 is 6.9:1 and for a stock BN1/BN2 compression is 7.5:1 - both very low. Compression for an M spec 100, however, is 8.1:1 and some racing stuff you can get out there will put it as high as 9.5:1. If running with higher compression, torquing to 75 ft-lbs is probably more correct. Using a solid steel or copper head gasket is smart too in this case. Regards, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Feb 3 18:10:01 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:10:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3D8C94F3A03349E28A697506B734AEAF@ophrdc.org> Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!) I know, to each their own. Flame suit on. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? > _______________________________________________ From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 18:56:29 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:56:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues Message-ID: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From ynotink at msn.com Tue Feb 3 19:01:53 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:01:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the patience to be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the look, but I like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill Lawrence> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: prafe at aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From ynotink at msn.com Tue Feb 3 19:07:36 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:07:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <3D8C94F3A03349E28A697506B734AEAF@ophrdc.org> References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> <3D8C94F3A03349E28A697506B734AEAF@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: I think I've finally found a name for my 100.Bill Lawrence> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net> To: healeys at autox.team.net; prafe at aol.com> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:10:01 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!)> > I know, to each their own. Flame suit on.> > Rich Chrysler> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > >> Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?>> _______________________________________________> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue Feb 3 19:08:15 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:08:15 EST Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues Message-ID: In a message dated 2/3/2009 8:56:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fortee9er at yahoo.com writes: The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated ---------------------------------------- Jorge-- Though I used a thin nut and lock washer when mounting the gear starters on the Healeys on the Elva (MGA engine) I went a different route and had a new nose piece machined out of aluminum with threads in the bottom tab which eliminated the need for the nut. You might get away with a helicoil. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 19:12:37 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:12:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In-Reply-To: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: They make nyloc nuts that are thinner than a standard size nut - and then you would not need a lockwasher. Richard > Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:56:29 -0800> From: fortee9er at yahoo.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues> > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated.> Jorge Garcia> 1965 BJ8> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. goes where you go. On a PC, on the Web, on your phone. http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/learnmore/versatility.aspx#mobile?ocid=TXT _TAGHM_WL_HM_versatility_121208 From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Feb 3 19:14:05 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:14:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com><424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org><498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Message-ID: Alan, I am looking at an orignal hardback factory manual for the 100, it doesn't give much in the way of torque settings for the motor, but does provide head studs 65-70 lbs and flywheel crankshaft bolts 35-40 lbs. Manual is dated July 1954. I do agree that Glenn's is an excellent suppplement. When I rebuilt my motor on the recommendation of my machinist both the head and the block were planed a very slight amount to ensure a smooth even finish, and I used a standard issue copper head gasket, reused my head studs and had no problems with 8.5/1 compression .060 over pistons using the factory manual torque settings, did use a little permatex copper gasket sealer for head gasket. Maybe I am just a lucky fellow. Your mileage may vary. Greg Lemon From dwflagg at juno.com Tue Feb 3 19:20:36 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:20:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Message-ID: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! Doug > I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the > patience to > be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost > differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the > look, but I > like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill > Lawrence> To: > healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: > prafe at aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has > anyone have > some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> ____________________________________________________________ Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2uXsdSS2kHQi4SPH6LyBb1EjkyELcMYsgrPNvDTAYBahQCQ/ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Feb 3 19:25:58 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:25:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 2009 Concours Guidelines distribution Message-ID: <22BD82BC82ED45CC8F24BF297C50EA1B@ophrdc.org> Dear Healey Friends, I am pleased to announce that the distribution of the 2009 Concours Guidelines, Policies and Scoresheets has commenced today for anybody who has ordered them. Each shipment includes the appropriate CD for Big Healey's and/or Sprites. The Guidelines have been published in a PDF format and our distributor, Mike Osipik will send you an Email attachment that should answer any questions regarding opening the files. This PDF disc allows the individual to copy the content into paper format as needed, so it's right there and handy as you're working on your car. There is a lot of new material and more coloured pictures that have been added to the 2009 edition. Cost with postage in U.S. $20.00 Canada and Mexico $25.00 All other $27.00 These prices are all expressed in U.S. currency. Anybody planning to have their car judged at the AHCA Kingston Conclave this June should have this 2009 Edition on hand. In fact we are asking all entrants to bring a hard paper copy of their appropriate judging sheets for their series car. Anybody wishing the new 2009 Edition of the Guidelines, Policies and Score sheets should contact: Mike Osipik mikeosipik at earthlink.net 816-333-2506 816-729-9119 Cell 253-484-7331 Fax Rich Chrysler AHCA/National Concours Committee Liaison From edriver at sasktel.net Tue Feb 3 19:32:07 2009 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 20:32:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> References: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> Message-ID: <4988FE27.2090607@sasktel.net> Doug, I'm breathless ;-) Regards Ed Douglas W Flagg wrote: > When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about > tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the > years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it > was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my > 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn > Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! > > Doug > > >> I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the >> patience to >> be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost >> differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the >> look, but I >> like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill >> Lawrence> To: >> healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: >> prafe at aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has >> anyone have >> some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> >> > ____________________________________________________________ > Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2uXsdSS2kHQi4SPH6LyBb1EjkyELcMYsgrPNvDTAYBahQCQ/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 3 20:41:25 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 22:41:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser References: Message-ID: <002101c9867a$753305e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> James, I'd love to see the diaper arrangement that you use for the rumpis of your Healey so you don't pollute when you drive. ; ) Please don't go ballistic on me folks, I'm only kidding. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to > protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of > kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 3 20:45:59 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 22:45:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] degreaser References: <102628.91404.qm@web54502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002a01c9867b$185df540$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Sunnyside mineral spirits (paint thinner) Low cost, Low volatile and get it pretty much anywhere. And it cuts like a knife. Served me well for many years and I still have a few brain cells left to prove it. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:34 AM Subject: [Healeys] degreaser >I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block >and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a >strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can >scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never >tried it. > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Feb 3 21:14:05 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 23:14:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser In-Reply-To: <002101c9867a$753305e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <002101c9867a$753305e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: <001e01c9867f$0574f790$105ee6b0$@net> Reminds me when I was heavily into boating and laws were just being passed prohibiting the dumping of porta pottys into the ocean. One of the boating magazines started a campaign to diaper the whales. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 10:41 PM To: James Sailer; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser James, I'd love to see the diaper arrangement that you use for the rumpis of your Healey so you don't pollute when you drive. ; ) Please don't go ballistic on me folks, I'm only kidding. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to > protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of > kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From britcrs at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 21:53:27 2009 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:53:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In-Reply-To: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On my BN1 I inserted the bolt through the tab from the front before I reclocked the starter. With the starter reclocked the bolt is loosely captured when you install the starter. The nut/washer ends up on the aft side of the bellhousing but I wont tell anyone if you don't. Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:56 PM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that > it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no > problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the > nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should > clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am > thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any > ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Feb 3 22:47:33 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 05:47:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?paint_question?= Message-ID: <20090204054733.20895.qmail@server278.com> my bj8 is base coat/clear coat. the bn6 is single stage urethane. i have come to like the more original look of the single stage than the shiny clear coat. guess i am just old fashioned. hjim From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Feb 3 23:48:39 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 06:48:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?mo_ma?= Message-ID: <20090204064839.9506.qmail@server278.com> need email address for MoMa in albuqurque. one listed in google did not work. hjim From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Wed Feb 4 00:09:37 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 23:09:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In-Reply-To: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <618191228A09428C86890965F7951398@LeonardPCPC> Jorge: I can't go look at this time and I put the starter in quite a while ago but as I recall, the bolt head is thinner than the nut so I just turned things around and put the bottom bolt in from the front. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues >I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that >it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no >problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the >nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should >clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I >am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. >Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 02:26:09 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:26:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49895F31.7080900@chello.nl> I would not worry to much. Oil is a natural product (OK, it is refined and dopes are added) and thus biodegradable. It is not as bad as the environment people will let us believe. Just spill some oil on your driveway and it will be completely gone after a year. Years ago there was a huge oil spill in the Atlantic near Scotland during a storm and there was an enormous worry for polluting the coastal aerea, and right they were to worry. However, because of the storm and the violent waves the oil was broken down in small particles and quickly degraded. Practically nothing was to be found afterwards. Mind you I am not telling you to dump your waste oil, be carefull with oil spill's, but it is not a disaster when it happens. The only real reason to avoid oil stains is SWMBO, she will tell you in no uncertain terms when you leave an oil stain on the drive way. I do my degreasing on my gravel driveway when she is not at home. No one the wiser. Never saw any oil stains and the weeds are growing like mad. Kees Oudesluijs Mirek Sharp schreef: > I agree James, > > you wrote: ... how about a method to protect not only our own property > (driveway and lawn) but also the environment > > When I have a major degreasing job to deal with, I generally lay down > plastic, as James suggests, then lay many layers of newspaper as an > absorbent. I then scrape off as much as I can with a selection of old > putty knifes (paint scrapers), and then do the final clean with > mineral spirits and a stiff brush. I then pull the plastic and soiled > newspaper out from under the project and, if I have time and space, > and if it is summer (I am in Canada), I leave the whole mess sit for a > while to let the solvent volatize off. I try to get the as much of > the old greasy grit to the hazardous waste disposal, but they usually > tell me to stick it in the garbage, from which it unfortunately goes > into the landfill. > > I also agree with the earlier comment about the Easy Off oven cleaner > - absolutely nasty stuff and very, very hard on the hands if you get > any on you - if you ever use it wear rubber gloves and safety > glasses. The only application I use it for is getting burned on oil > off the chrome pipes on my Velocette (motorcycle) - with a bit of > elbow grease - it is pretty good for that. > > cheers, > > Mirek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 02:37:39 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:37:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Message-ID: <498961E3.2030106@chello.nl> What is usually ingnored by many is that the two front and the two rear head nuts/bolts should be torqued down slightly less than the rest. These four bolts have less surface to press down so the downforce should be less as well. This is especially important for alloy heads, but it is sound enginering practice for cast iron or steel heads as well. Go for about 10% less torque. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Russ, et. al., > > There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the > correct torque setting for head nuts for the 100. This confusion is not > helped by the fact that neither the factory workshop manual for the 100 nor > the A90 specifies this. > > That being said, I have two other publications, and they both clearly state > that this head should be torqued to 65 ft-lbs. I have been told to torque > to 75 ft - lbs by several people as this is what is used on the 6-cylinder > motor, but for the 100 motor it is only 65 ft. lbs. These are the two > publications I am talking about, which I have found VERY useful over the > years: > > 1) Glenn's Austin and Austin Healey. It's this book that details many of > the detailed dizzy, carb and engine settings & equipment for the Healey 100 > & 6 cyl, as well as Austins with A-series motors. Very useful if you can > get an old used one > 2) Austin cars by TBD Service - This book covers all post war Austins > (except AH's) and has a wealth of info for any A90 owner. Great thing is > this book is very small and can be put in the glove box for easy reference. > > 75 ft-lbs should be perfectly fine, but the only downside of over torquing > on the 100 motor is over time the metal around the studs will start pulling > up. This can usually be fixed by drilling little bevels in the stud holes > on the block but if it can be avoided with proper torquing, all the better. > > One thing to note - compression on the A90 is 6.9:1 and for a stock BN1/BN2 > compression is 7.5:1 - both very low. Compression for an M spec 100, > however, is 8.1:1 and some racing stuff you can get out there will put it as > high as 9.5:1. If running with higher compression, torquing to 75 ft-lbs is > probably more correct. Using a solid steel or copper head gasket is smart > too in this case. > > Regards, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > when it should have been 70 to 75 ft lbs. The workshop manual I had > inherited from a previous owner had a handwritten note indicating the 55 > ft. lbs. for the head nuts, and the mechanic working on the car did as it > said.> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 02:39:07 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:39:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In-Reply-To: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4989623B.80608@chello.nl> Do away with the lock washer and use locktide. Kees Oudesluijs Jorge Garcia schreef: > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 02:40:32 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:40:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <49896290.3030103@chello.nl> 5 slotted Wolfrace wheels look a whole lot better and are probably more appriate for the Healey. Kees Oudesluijs WILLIAM B LAWRENCE schreef: > I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the patience to > be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost > differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the look, but I > like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill Lawrence> To: > healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: > prafe at aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has anyone have > some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> > _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as > ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 04:53:04 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 19:53:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jorge - Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested > in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can > I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground > alternator to positive ground? > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 05:21:34 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 13:21:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4989884E.20508@chello.nl> However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Jorge - > > Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative ground > alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > > >> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested >> in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can >> I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground >> alternator to positive ground? >> Thanks >> Jorge Garcia >> 1965 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Feb 4 05:36:34 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:36:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: <4989884E.20508@chello.nl> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4989884E.20508@chello.nl> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Jorge - > > Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative > ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > > >> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am >> interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing >> exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to >> convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? >> Thanks >> Jorge Garcia >> 1965 BJ8 From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Feb 4 05:50:34 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 12:50:34 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> References: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> Message-ID: <000901c986c7$2d7d2580$88777080$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> And when I was at university, TCD, in Dublin, I didn't know anything [about anything?) either and one of my rear wires collapsed going round a corner in Ballsbridge rather too enthusiastically. There was less traffic in Dublin those days and that was possible in daylight hours. For the Irish amongst us, there was a guy in a back street off the far end of O'Connell Street who specialized in doing things to wire wheels. In the same street was a battery place where they could put new posts on batteries. They melted the lead(?) in moulds and, more or less, hey presto. Those guys, and the street too, would be long gone I'd guess. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas W Flagg Sent: 04 February 2009 02:21 To: ynotink at msn.com Cc: prafe at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! Doug From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 06:27:42 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:27:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <-8315880051509427808@unknownmsgid> References: <20090203.212036.4956.0.dwflagg@juno.com> <-8315880051509427808@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: Long gone from lead poisoning.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > And when I was at university, TCD, in Dublin, I didn't know anything [about > anything?) either and one of my rear wires collapsed going round a corner > in > Ballsbridge rather too enthusiastically. There was less traffic in Dublin > those days and that was possible in daylight hours. For the Irish amongst > us, there was a guy in a back street off the far end of O'Connell Street > who > specialized in doing things to wire wheels. In the same street was a > battery > place where they could put new posts on batteries. They melted the lead(?) > in moulds and, more or less, hey presto. Those guys, and the street too, > would be long gone I'd guess. > Simon > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Douglas W Flagg > Sent: 04 February 2009 02:21 > To: ynotink at msn.com > Cc: prafe at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > > When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about > tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the > years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it > was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my > 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn > Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! > > Doug > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From twillig at ruda.de Wed Feb 4 07:18:40 2009 From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas-Michael Willig) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 15:18:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover Message-ID: <2584B6D52282444EB65F179E04A895A6@pcn031> During the rebuild of my BN2 engine, I managed to lose the bolts which attach the clutch cover to the flywheel. Anyone knows which size/thread these bolts should have?? Somehow, none of the available bolts do fit. Thanks for any help here. Regards Thomas Willig From geatros at shaw.ca Wed Feb 4 07:38:01 2009 From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 06:38:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] lots of Healey parts for salewith 100-6 project $16K Message-ID: Hello Listers If anyone is looking for Healey parts and a 100-6 a fellow called me and has an iventory list he can send, too large to post, shrouds, 2 rebuilt center shift trans.engines, 100-6 project car,and lots more ect......$16k Call Geoffery Reis 610-776-7661 or geoffery at jagconnection.com He can send photos and an inventory list . He says theres no junk and I think he said he's he's near New York . No $ interest just passing on the info.... Good Luck Kenny Geatros Vancouver BC From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 07:57:35 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 15:57:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4989884E.20508@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <4989ACDF.1010004@chello.nl> There are bound to be people who have fitted an electric clock from Smiths (or Jaeger UK which is the same). I have seen later Healey's with 110: instuments. These usually need a voltage stabiliser (fuel or temperature meter when they ar bimetallic instruments). If they are original, I do not know, I am not an Austin Healey man. My Healey's most certainly had a voltage stabiliser from new. But than it is a Jensen. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > Kees, > Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 > An: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Austin Healey > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. > Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage > stabilizer if fitted. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Alan Seigrist schreef: > >> Jorge - >> >> Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative >> ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: >> >> >> >>> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am >>> interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing >>> exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to >>> convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? >>> Thanks >>> Jorge Garcia >>> 1965 BJ8 >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From kentmclean at comcast.net Wed Feb 4 08:54:19 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:54:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Save me Message-ID: <4989BA2B.7020305@comcast.net> From the spridgets list: Misspelled, and with a V6. Who knows what you'll get. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From britcrs at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 10:58:49 2009 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 10:58:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Message-ID: I have a factory workshop manual dated September 1956. On page D/2 under "Torque Wrench Settings" it lists cylinder head nuts as "65-70 lbs./ft, (8.987-9.678 kgm.) Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Russ, et. al., > > There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the From mlempert at bellsouth.net Wed Feb 4 11:02:39 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:02:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning Message-ID: Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction please use caution. I believe this to be a fraudulent sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 Mike Lempert From henry at vmtrc.ucdavis.edu Wed Feb 4 11:12:35 2009 From: henry at vmtrc.ucdavis.edu (henry) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:12:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Head Message-ID: <4989DA93.8040807@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu> Hello List: I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of cracked and warped heads, is it alright to use the 4 outside head bolts to hoist the engine? To store the engine, do I need to retorque the head? I don't want to damage the head. What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? Thanks From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 11:22:15 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 19:22:15 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <469501D9-F00D-40AF-BA07-ED51A44FF6D2@cox.net> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> <5DF51BE03E1349449F9D74B15D981972@PatrickQuinnPC> <4988153D.8090803@chello.nl> <49881A72.3060209@chello.nl> <469501D9-F00D-40AF-BA07-ED51A44FF6D2@cox.net> Message-ID: <4989DCD7.6040909@chello.nl> I just see I made a mistake, I ment an electrical water pump or fan. Sorry for the confusion. Degeneration of the gray cells I am afraid. I just want to keep it simple. Anyway the efficiency of electromotors and dynamo/alternators are fairly high (around 80-90%), so for ease keep them at 100%. Things automotive from the 50's ae not very accurate anyhow. Kees Oudesluijs Eric (Rick) Wilkins schreef: > Not that simple math. > > There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the > water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/may > not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once > the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an > alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. > > Wilko > > On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be >> driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come >> from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any >> difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So >> the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and >> powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. >> Simple mathematics. >> Kees Oudesluijs From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Feb 4 10:48:55 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:48:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <49881A72.3060209@chello.nl> References: <5EE7EA3E86364784B120C3973DD968DD@ecarecenters.net> <1BA82D15FDD84F96BF47F6D18B1679DB@PatrickQuinnPC> <49880209.9080304@chello.nl> <5DF51BE03E1349449F9D74B15D981972@PatrickQuinnPC> <4988153D.8090803@chello.nl> <49881A72.3060209@chello.nl> Message-ID: <469501D9-F00D-40AF-BA07-ED51A44FF6D2@cox.net> Not that simple math. There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > Simple mathematics. > Kees Oudesluijs From robertlarson at att.net Wed Feb 4 11:54:31 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 13:54:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 In-Reply-To: References: <20090202.161437.27026.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <424903DED46E40BABEC734207027A616@ophrdc.org> <498882C0.90902@azboss.net> Message-ID: <4989E467.2050305@att.net> The September 1954 issue of the service manual (Publication # 997B) also states the same. Bob Marvin James wrote: I have a factory workshop manual dated September 1956. On page D/2 under "Torque Wrench Settings" it lists cylinder head nuts as "65-70 lbs./ft, (8.987-9.678 kgm.) Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Russ, et. al., There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 4 12:35:59 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:35:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Head In-Reply-To: <4989DA93.8040807@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu> References: <4989DA93.8040807@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu> Message-ID: <4989EE1F.7000406@chello.nl> henry schreef: > Hello List: > > I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of > cracked and warped heads, > is it alright to use the 4 outside head bolts to hoist the engine? > To store the engine, do I need to retorque the head? > I don't want to damage the head. > > What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Feb 4 12:55:01 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:55:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay Message-ID: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From bighealey at charter.net Wed Feb 4 13:33:53 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 15:33:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090204153353.NTQRF.42603.root@mp15> Mike, Fradulent as in that is not a real LL wheel? Cheers! ---- M Lempert wrote: > Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction please use caution. I > believe this to be a fraudulent sale. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 > > Mike Lempert > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 4 13:43:48 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 20:43:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <418339911.3312971233776467662.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <569619175.3345961233780228845.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read the law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the engine, for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an electric pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, the engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% efficiency (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are probably around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to electrical (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of the electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always friction). IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me--is the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not needed. Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll be running off the alternator. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 9:48:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Not that simple math. There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > Simple mathematics. > Kees Oudesluijs From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Feb 4 14:20:00 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:20:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <569619175.3345961233780228845.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <569619175.3345961233780228845.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <41D5E978-245C-475C-A587-768089B559DD@cox.net> Like I was saying... It's not simple mathematics at all. Wilko On Feb 4, 2009, at 12:43 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... > > Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? > (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read > the law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the > water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the > engine, for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an > electric pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, > the engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% > efficiency (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump > impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven > units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are > probably around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to > electrical (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of > the electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always > friction). > > IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the > alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the > additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. > > The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me-- > is the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not > needed. Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll > be running off the alternator. > > > Bob From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Feb 4 15:21:12 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 09:21:12 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4989884E.20508@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Wed Feb 4 15:58:49 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:58:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Parts in NJ In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <755361.14464.qm@web52401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> quite a few good parts here http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/1017669198.html Best JK From mlempert at bellsouth.net Wed Feb 4 16:38:40 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 18:38:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay References: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> Message-ID: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do you think? http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman To: mlempert at bellsouth.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM Subject: Item on ebay Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From ynotink at msn.com Wed Feb 4 17:47:54 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 00:47:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> References: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Message-ID: Looks like a pretty easy signature to forge and it is kind of a sloppy job of engraving. On the other hand, an engraving tool is not a normal writing instrument and if someone (Sir Stirling?) were using one on a limited basis it might come out looking like that.Bill Lawrence> From: mlempert at bellsouth.net> To: mkgoodman at att.net> Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 18:38:40 -0500> CC: HealeyHundred at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay> > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and > has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed.> > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) > the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature > with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. > See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I > have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking > about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third > (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do > you think?> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575> > Mike L.> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mark Goodman> To: mlempert at bellsouth.net> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM> Subject: Item on ebay> > > Dear Mike,> > That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. > He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 > years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts > in his stockpile.> > Mark Goodman> 66 BJ8 35503> www.austinhealeyessence.com> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 17:48:04 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:48:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> References: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Message-ID: Maybe it's a 1960's Japanese ripoff? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:38 AM, M Lempert wrote: > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent > and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a > life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the > signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period > advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see > what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the > adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the > ebay wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 17:53:20 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:53:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> References: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Message-ID: Mike - I only say that - about 10 years ago I'd go into the shopping areas in Saigon, and the shops were chock full of counterfeit watches and lighters, etc. - the only thing unusual about it were all the counterfeits were from the 1960's and 1970's (i.e. not modern Chinese counterfeits), so I guess my point is Counterfeiting has been around a long time and this may very well be an old counterfeit. When I was a kid living in Taiwan in the 60's and 70's, you could buy any book published in the USA in Taiwan - Taiwan at that time was the world's biggest producer of counterfeit English language books. I still have a Taiwan Merriam Webster Dictionary around somewhere - as you well know a Webster's Dictionary in the US at the time costed a fortune, but was only about 1/5th the price in Taiwan! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:38 AM, M Lempert wrote: > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent > and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a > life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the > signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period > advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see > what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the > adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the > ebay wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. From tld6008 at mchsi.com Wed Feb 4 18:56:32 2009 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 01:56:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <020520090156.23221.498A4750000484EA00005AB5223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> I am trying to finish the interior of my BN7 and am unsure how to deal with the horizontal feature that is just above the drive shaft tunnel on the vertical bulkhead behind the seats. I believe the Armacord from the floor fits up underneath it and the carpet on the rear deck runs down to it but what actually is done with the what ever it's called. -- Tim Davis BN7 From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Feb 4 19:22:28 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:22:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> References: <004101c98702$79cb9800$6d62c800$@net> <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Message-ID: <001001c98738$981cc370$c8564a50$@net> Mike, I cannot verify if it is a true signature from Sir Sterling as that is not important to me, but it has been in his shop for over 15 years. You are obviously well versed on his signature, as you have several items that bear that. Concerning his ebay history, I know that this is a new experience for him. I have told him for the past 5 years to start moving his inventory on ebay, and with everyone's business activities being slow these days, he probably has some time now to sell some of his "stockpile". Probably the buy it now feature was chosen because he has not had much experience at the ebay game. He is an honest man and has always treated me fairly in any work that he has done on my Healey and any parts that I have purchased from him. He has an image of himself with Donald Healey next to the BJ8 he had in the 70's along with a signed letter from Donald. He is well respected in the Vintage Racing field and is very much involved in VSCCA and the Northeast Jaguar Club. You do not gain that from misbehaving or doing dishonest deals. Mark -----Original Message----- From: M Lempert [mailto:mlempert at bellsouth.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 6:39 PM To: Mark Goodman Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; HealeyHundred at comcast.net Subject: Re: Item on ebay Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do you think? http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman To: mlempert at bellsouth.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM Subject: Item on ebay Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 4 21:04:31 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 22:04:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Mike, I was about to write almost EXACTLY what Bill said (above). If I use my engraver ONCE a year (it is a LOT) and my own sig would have the minor differences as the ones in your pics. On a side note, Bill Lawrence, Mike Lempert and Mark Goodman are NOT getting TWO mails because I am NOT so LAZY as to not take the time to remove their addys BEFORE I hit Send. And it IS polite!! Ed From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Feb 4 21:55:05 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 20:55:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning In-Reply-To: <20090204153353.NTQRF.42603.root@mp15> Message-ID: <672499.73090.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I am not a wheel expert, but this is not the normal Stirling Moss signature - I know Moss and have several original sigs in my posession. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 2/4/09, bighealey at charter.net wrote: > From: bighealey at charter.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning > To: "M Lempert" , "Healey List" > Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2009, 12:33 PM > Mike, > > Fradulent as in that is not a real LL wheel? > > Cheers! > > ---- M Lempert wrote: > > Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction > please use caution. I > > believe this to be a fraudulent sale. > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 > > > > Mike Lempert > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From rnbmail at yahoo.com Wed Feb 4 22:01:17 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:01:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay In-Reply-To: <6F274B2E701A40D783E5C3DB9925E010@DadsPC> Message-ID: <250054.93196.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mike, Exactly my point - the D looks contrived and is probably not a production stencil of the original Moss sig. His later in life sig is different yet again - as you would expect - less legible of course. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Wed, 2/4/09, M Lempert wrote: > From: M Lempert > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay > To: "Mark Goodman" > Cc: HealeyHundred at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2009, 3:38 PM > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark > knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me > explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller > with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a > buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate > payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. > The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction > - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only > three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After > the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was > finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as > someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel > looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have > plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, > I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so > you can see what I'm talking about. The first two > signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is > from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay > wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman > To: mlempert at bellsouth.net > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM > Subject: Item on ebay > > > Dear Mike, > > That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob > Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been > very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight > shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his > stockpile. > > Mark Goodman > 66 BJ8 35503 > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Feb 4 22:11:50 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 00:11:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: <020520090156.23221.498A4750000484EA00005AB5223245003003010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> Message-ID: Tim, The inverted metal lip should be covered with the matching vinyl as the trim panels. The rear floor carpet will indeed be pushed tightly up under the flange, and will be hed there by the compression of the carpet, being forced to stay there by the floor snaps. Pictures included. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Healey list" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 8:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) > I am trying to finish the interior of my BN7 and am unsure how to deal > with the horizontal feature that is just above the drive shaft tunnel on > the vertical bulkhead behind the seats. I believe the Armacord from the > floor fits up underneath it and the carpet on the rear deck runs down to > it but what actually is done with the what ever it's called. > > -- > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0002.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010068.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010067.JPG] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 5 00:17:50 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 08:17:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <569619175.3345961233780228845.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <569619175.3345961233780228845.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <498A929E.1030107@chello.nl> Bob, Perfectly explained. The battery is charged by the dynamo/alternator thus also sapping the engine, allthough a bit spread out so peak HP will suffer a bit less. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... > > Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? > (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read the > law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the > water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the engine, > for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an electric > pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, the > engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% efficiency > (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump > impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven > units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are probably > around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to electrical > (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of the > electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always friction). > > IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the > alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the > additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. > > The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me--is > the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not needed. > Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll be running > off the alternator. > > > Bob > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > To: "Oudesluys" > Cc: "healeys" > Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 9:48:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > Not that simple math. > > There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run > the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ > may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, > once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an > alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. > > Wilko > > On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > > Simple mathematics. > > Kees Oudesluijs From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 4 23:56:41 2009 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 22:56:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Head In-Reply-To: <4989EE1F.7000406@chello.nl> References: <4989DA93.8040807@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu> <4989EE1F.7000406@chello.nl> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090204225330.02000de0@pop.att.yahoo.com> On the MKII 3000 engine the valve cover bolts are the lifting points, I would suspect it would be the same for the 100/4. John At 08:35 PM 2/4/2009 +0100, Oudesluys wrote: >henry schreef: >>Hello List: >> >>I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of .... >>What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? >> >>Thanks From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Feb 5 00:40:46 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:40:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4989884E.20508@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D81F5@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Patrick, Just for my knowledge, you say a 1947 Healey Duncan was fitted with a voltage stabilizer? How big was/is this device? Its just, because I cannot believe that cars in 1947 were fitted with semiconductor voltage stabilizers. But I am sure you are right, just wondering. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 23:21 An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] positive ground alternator G'day Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Thu Feb 5 00:48:08 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 18:48:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 In-Reply-To: <3D8C94F3A03349E28A697506B734AEAF@ophrdc.org> References: <8CB5471251B3F10-100-10AB@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> <3D8C94F3A03349E28A697506B734AEAF@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <20090205184808.11424g5snqgdxygo@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Solution Have wires on the right hand side and park accordingly at Rich's place and wires on your side when you walk upto you pride and joy to drive off. Benefits are it is reversible and both left and right side occupants can hang their heads out and be mesmerised by those flashing 'leftsideundos' and 'rightsideundos' Cheers Quoting Rich C : > Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!) > > I know, to each their own. Flame suit on. > > Rich Chrysler > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > > >> Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html[1] > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys[2] > > You are subscribed as sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au > > http://www.team.net/archive[3] > Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [3] http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 5 01:01:17 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 09:01:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D81F5@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4989884E.20508@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D81F5@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <498A9CCD.80908@chello.nl> It is a small metal box about 35x15mm. It is not a semiconductor but some bimetallic device that stabilises more or less on 10V. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > Patrick, > Just for my knowledge, you say a 1947 Healey Duncan was fitted with a voltage > stabilizer? How big was/is this device? Its just, because I cannot believe > that cars in 1947 were fitted with semiconductor voltage stabilizers. > But I am sure you are right, just wondering. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au] > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 23:21 > An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > G'day > > Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look > on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. > > Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and > instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks > and instruments > 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and > Jaeger clocks and instruments > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com > Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > Kees, > Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 > An: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Austin Healey > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get > damaged. > Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage > stabilizer if fitted. > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From ampole at hotmail.com Thu Feb 5 04:18:05 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:18:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer In-Reply-To: <498A9CCD.80908@chello.nl> References: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com><4989884E.20508@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D802C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC35@itfexch5.central.det.win> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D81F5@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> <498A9CCD.80908@chello.nl> Message-ID: I believe the old lucas stabilisers (which are bi-metallic contacts) work by trying to keep a constant 10v, this they do by taking an average (rms) of supply voltage (12-13ish volts) against time, giving the 10v as the 'points' constantly chatter open and closed. Cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Love Hotmail? Check out the new services from Windows Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/132630768/direct/01/ From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Thu Feb 5 04:26:48 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 03:26:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild Message-ID: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough idle any articles out there From mlempert at bellsouth.net Thu Feb 5 08:00:54 2009 From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:00:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning References: <672499.73090.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks to all for your comments, especially Mark Goodman for sharing his knowledge of the ebay seller. I discovered last night why I was having a case of dij` vu; I had done a signature comparison on a similar, but not the same, wheel two years ago. That wheel had the very same signature as the wheel in question today. This can be looked at two ways and I'm not sure which would be correct. Either there was a second signature used, or it's a counterfeit that was done more than once, probably many times more than once - getting to Alan's point of period counterfeiting. The best I can tell, the original signature looks to have been pressed, not engraved, although I could be wrong. The questionable signature was also likely to have been pressed, but definitely not personally hand engraved by Moss. The LL stamping was just that, stamped. All of this aside, and because of Mark's voucher, I withdraw my caution of the seller and apologize to the gentleman. Those who are familiar with ebay and the scams that go on will understand why the auction was suspicious. Since this one was marketing to Healey people, I chose to warn my friends. Regards, Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blair" I am not a wheel expert, but this is not the normal Stirling Moss signature - I know Moss and have several original sigs in my posession. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From mkgoodman at att.net Thu Feb 5 08:21:24 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:21:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] withdrawal of Caution Message-ID: <002001c987a5$68e96690$3abc33b0$@net> Dear Mike, I am glad that you have chosen to withdraw your caution on Bob Millstein. I spoke to Bob Millstein about the wheel that was sold and then reappeared. He said that the buyer was not aware that the wheel needed reconditioning, and even though it was a buy it now, Bob gave the man all his money back and put it back on ebay. He said that the signature was stamped on the wheel and that he has seen it on several wheels just like that. I know that he does have several personal letters written to him from Sir Sterling Moss, so he does have original copies of his signature on them. Sincerely, Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Feb 5 08:56:01 2009 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:56:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay Message-ID: I haven't been following this thread closely, but I looked at the signature comparison, and then I looked at my Les Leston Stirling Moss wheel ( purchased new from the Les Leston shop in London by my uncle back in the early sixties), and the signature looks the same as the engraved sample on Mike's site. Right down to the extra little tick to the left of the "t". I think they came up with a sort of "average" that would engrave well. I know nothing about the individual item, but the photo of the engraving is from a real Les Leston "Moss" wheel. Stephen, BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 10:41:29 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:41:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <544135437.3726281233855689952.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> False (again, the Law of Conservation of Energy: there are no freebies). This is expressed in the concept of 'load.' The load on the alternator increases or decreases depending on the electrical demands placed on it. At cruise, the load on the alternator--this applies to generators, too--is more or less stable. Turn on the lights, and the load, or power demand on the alternator increases by the power needed by the lights. The alternator needs to produce more power, measured in watts, to power the engine plus the lights (the voltage regulator, which controls power to the rotor of an alternator--or to the field coils of a generator--will supply the extra 'feed' current). This additional power, measured (usually) in HP, comes from the engine. There are conversion factors that convert HP to watts, to BTUs and any other measure of energy and back. If you track it carefully, you will find that your mileage is less at night with the lights on than during the day (not much, but measurable, esp. in a low-powered auto). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Johnson" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "Bob Spidell" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 8:24:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive There is an implication here, I believe, that the greater the power requirement, the harder it is to spin the generator/ alternator. Isn't the relationship between the engine and the gen/alt a fixed relationship between the pulleys? And following that, the the regulator controls the amount of electrical output as required to run whatever you are trying to run on your vehicle? I don't know, but it just seems logical to me that the motor turns, the gen/alt turns and the horsepower to do this work would be essentially constant regardless of electrical power requirements. If you take the mechanical water pump out of the system you would save hp requirement for the engine, IOW the engine would spin more easily. Then the electrical water pump, while requiring hp to run the pump motor would be "free" because more electricity would be released by the regulating system. It was always being produced, just not being used. Is this true or false? Bob Johnson BJ8 From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 10:41:50 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:41:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> An analogy is an air conditioning compressor. With A/C off, at idle, the compressor is not pushing refrigerant through the system. Turn the A/C on, and the compressor has to push the refrigerant through the system, the load on the engine increases and the idle speed will drop (modern cars compensate with the idle control valve/solenoid, so usually you don't get the drop). Similarly, when the load on an alter/generator increases, the unit is required to push more electrons through the resistance of the load. If you were turning the alternator by hand, you would feel more and more resistance--more effort required, i.e. more HP--to turn the alternator, at the same speed, as the load increases. Since the power output of an engine is more-or-less fixed, there will be less HP at the driven wheels when you have more electrical accessories running. Actually, electrically-driven accessories are LESS efficient than engine-driven accessories. Let's say the alternator is 90% efficient (it probably isn't), and a typical electric motor is 90% efficient (again, probably optimistic). Since the two are in series--and belt friction/slippage and the inefficiencies of the fan or impeller are a wash with mechanically-driven accessories, basically--the efficiency of the two is .9 times .9, or roughly 80%. Hence, the electrically-driven accessories would be roughly 20% less efficient, all else being equal. Again, the value of the electrics is the ability to cut or reduce the power to the motors when not needed. Also, you can crank up the fan motor at idle--when the engine is turning slowly and cars are more inclined to overheat--to keep the engine temps down. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Johnson" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "Bob Spidell" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 8:24:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive There is an implication here, I believe, that the greater the power requirement, the harder it is to spin the generator/ alternator. Isn't the relationship between the engine and the gen/alt a fixed relationship between the pulleys? And following that, the the regulator controls the amount of electrical output as required to run whatever you are trying to run on your vehicle? I don't know, but it just seems logical to me that the motor turns, the gen/alt turns and the horsepower to do this work would be essentially constant regardless of electrical power requirements. If you take the mechanical water pump out of the system you would save hp requirement for the engine, IOW the engine would spin more easily. Then the electrical water pump, while requiring hp to run the pump motor would be "free" because more electricity would be released by the regulating system. It was always being produced, just not being used. Is this true or false? Bob Johnson BJ8 From comkanuk at cgocable.ca Thu Feb 5 11:46:41 2009 From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:46:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] web site AHCA Message-ID: <79BF0CE4-CFDC-4854-964D-B8B8553DAFAD@cgocable.ca> Just to let you know about the new look of their web site Great looking Bravo Cole Gilbert From coll44 at msn.com Thu Feb 5 11:53:04 2009 From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:53:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? Thanks and regards, Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 11:53:09 2009 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:53:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > OK. Thanks for the explanation. This is the part that I was surprised to > learn: > If you were turning the alternator by hand, you would feel more and more resistance--more effort required, i.e. more HP--to turn the alternator, at the same speed, as the load increases. Since the power output of an engine is more-or-less fixed, there will be less HP at the driven wheels when you have more electrical accessories running. Bob Johnson BJ8 From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Thu Feb 5 12:01:35 2009 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:01:35 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive References: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Terry, I fitted one of the following fans to my BJ8 a couple of years ago and it has been a excellent addition to the car. Please see the following link: http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=12725 Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay Director Classic-Car-World Ltd 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 ----- Original Message ----- From: "TERRY COLL" To: Cc: "austin healey" Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an > electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? > > Thanks and regards, > > Terry Coll '64 BJ8 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu Feb 5 13:42:07 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 06:42:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors Message-ID: <6E8BB73DFB2A4A3DB232FE29AE14100D@PeterPC> G'day list I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian Deisgn rules because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" mirrors - what's the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door has holes at the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is going to be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the passenger side) Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 V6 Holden From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Feb 5 14:06:47 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:06:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <6E8BB73DFB2A4A3DB232FE29AE14100D@PeterPC> References: <6E8BB73DFB2A4A3DB232FE29AE14100D@PeterPC> Message-ID: <7FF9DD09-5EA7-4E66-BECB-C8019A2F51F2@cox.net> IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. Wilko San Diego On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian > Deisgn rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" > mirrors - what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door > has holes at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is > going to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the > passenger side) From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 14:13:59 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:13:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild In-Reply-To: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2F8619B5-C713-4932-91CC-A250934F8418@sbcglobal.net> There are many upgrades that can be done depending on what you want to put into it. Light flywheel Will allow the engine to rev up much easier, increase horse power, less load on engine Light Pistons Less spinning weight more power Performance Cam This is the heart of the performance, there are several options here and you will still have a good idle Headers Any time you make power you have to get the exhaust out headers will allow the exhaust to get out faster, this will also help pull in fresh air fuel mixture Aluminium Head Less weight, flows better but very pricey When doing the machine work to the motor you should balance the motor, line bore block, align rods, deck block and head, Fit guides and stainless valves and seats. The cylinder head you can do some polish work to the intake and exhaust ports. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 5, 2009, at 3:26 AM, john doe wrote: > looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of > it what are the available options without putting in a cam that > would make a rough idle any articles out there > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Thu Feb 5 15:21:27 2009 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 16:21:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan experience In-Reply-To: References: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01c987e0$16a7a780$43f6f680$@co@tx.rr.com> I had an electric fan (similar to the one referenced from classic Car World but from Vintage Air) mounted in front of the radiator as a pusher. It worked very well for city driving but at high speeds the pancake motor blocked too much air to cool the hard working engine coolant. A puller fan is much, much better. I did not have room behind the radiator, between the water pump pulley and cooling fins, to mount the fan with pancake motor. To solve the issue, I installed a 'sidewinder' electric fan behind the radiator. The sidewinder style has the electric motor mounted off to the side with an enclosed cog belt running the fan. I clocked the fan so that the motor sits on the lower left side of the engine. The location required a short extension of the lower water hose to place the hose behind the fan motor. The unit that I am using employs a 16" fan with a built in cast aluminum shroud. On a hot day, When the fan engages, the fan motor runs less than a minute to cool down the temperature enough to shut down. It produces a hurricane. The motor draws 19 amps. The engine stays cool at high speeds without the fan running. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open roads car From gardner5 at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 15:57:22 2009 From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 22:57:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <7FF9DD09-5EA7-4E66-BECB-C8019A2F51F2@cox.net> Message-ID: <441748416.1072721233874642638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work by adding bullet mirrors.B Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click on mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB knob on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple solution. Joel BN2 B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "healeys List" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. Wilko San Diego On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > Deisgn rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > mirrors - what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > has holes at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > going to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > passenger side) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Feb 5 16:05:00 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:05:00 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: References: <157384115.3721451233855159132.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><578500611.3726481233855710723.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC5F@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Of course while we have all been conjugating on the advantage of mechanical energy over electrical we have perhaps forgotten about what is the true advantage of using a computerised electric water pump and electric fan system. Once the temperature is set by the user it is then maintained through a more rapid (or slower) flow of coolant by the pump and cooling by the fan. Providing the engine/radiator are in good condition the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly and stays there, no matter the driving conditions. As the pump continues after the engine is shut down to the previously set temperature it also eliminates hotspot cavitation. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY COLL Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 5:53 AM To: bspidell at comcast.net Cc: austin healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? Thanks and regards, Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 16:40:41 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 23:40:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC5F@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <260593485.3907471233877241319.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Agreed (I did mention that the advantage of electric accessories is the ability to reduce or cut power to the motors as required). This would be a good use of the excess computing power available in our Healeys ;) My main point is that it takes the (essentially) the same power to drive the pump and/or fan, whether it comes from the engine directly or is converted to electricity by the alternator, and that from a strictly efficiency standpoint the conversion losses in the alternator and motors are not inconsequential. Of course, due to the reverse Coriolis Effect down under the power flows INTO the alternator from the motors, a HUGE advantage. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Quinn" To: "TERRY COLL" , bspidell at comcast.net Cc: "austin healey" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 3:05:00 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive G'day Of course while we have all been conjugating on the advantage of mechanical energy over electrical we have perhaps forgotten about what is the true advantage of using a computerised electric water pump and electric fan system. Once the temperature is set by the user it is then maintained through a more rapid (or slower) flow of coolant by the pump and cooling by the fan. Providing the engine/radiator are in good condition the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly and stays there, no matter the driving conditions. As the pump continues after the engine is shut down to the previously set temperature it also eliminates hotspot cavitation. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From sshadle at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 16:44:18 2009 From: sshadle at gmail.com (Sid Shadle) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:44:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <441748416.1072721233874642638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <7FF9DD09-5EA7-4E66-BECB-C8019A2F51F2@cox.net> <441748416.1072721233874642638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <889377d50902051544wfc27559p3b2ca65b75704c3b@mail.gmail.com> I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks awful*. But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting hole and, if so, how and what is involved? Sid On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 2:57 PM, wrote: > My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work by > adding bullet mirrors.B > > Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click > on > mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB > knob > on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple solution. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > > B > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > To: "healeys List" > Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors > > IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B > car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). > > Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B > requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. > > Wilko > San Diego > > On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > > > G'day list > > > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > > Deisgn rules > > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > > mirrors - what's > > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > > has holes at > > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > > going to > > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > > passenger side) > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as sshadle at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From britcrs at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 17:08:44 2009 From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:08:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <889377d50902051544wfc27559p3b2ca65b75704c3b@mail.gmail.com> References: <7FF9DD09-5EA7-4E66-BECB-C8019A2F51F2@cox.net> <441748416.1072721233874642638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <889377d50902051544wfc27559p3b2ca65b75704c3b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Easy on 6 cyl sidecurtain cars. On my early BN1 I had to extent the threaded stud and drill the hole in the door through. Then it works great. I can e-mail pictures if anyone wants to see it. They're only $20 at the HD store. I was the only guy in the store without piercings and tatoos. Marv J On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 4:44 PM, Sid Shadle wrote: > I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? > > I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car > Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks > awful*. > But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. > > Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am > wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting > hole and, if so, how and what is involved? > > Sid > > On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 2:57 PM, wrote: > > > My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work > by > > adding bullet mirrors.B > > > > Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click > > on > > mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB > > knob > > on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple > solution. > > > > > > > > Joel > > > > BN2 > > > > B > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > > To: "healeys List" > > Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors > > > > IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B > > car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). > > > > Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B > > requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. > > > > Wilko > > San Diego > > > > On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > > > > > G'day list > > > > > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > > > Deisgn rules > > > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > > > mirrors - what's > > > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > > > has holes at > > > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > > > going to > > > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > > > passenger side) > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as sshadle at gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 17:46:06 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 18:46:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <889377d50902051544wfc27559p3b2ca65b75704c3b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I use the round Harley mirrors (part nos. 91931-92T and 91930-92T) that look almost identical to the Lucas mirrors. They were $13.50 each in 2005 at the local Harley dealer. The do have "Harley Davidson" stamped on the mounting arm but one has to look real close to see it. They mount in the side curtain holes on my 3000 BT7 using the original side curtain wing nuts to hold them in place, as the thread matches.. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Sid Shadle Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 5:44 PM To: gardner5 at comcast.net Cc: healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks awful*. But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting hole and, if so, how and what is involved? Sid From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 18:09:35 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:09:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: <6E8BB73DFB2A4A3DB232FE29AE14100D@PeterPC> References: <6E8BB73DFB2A4A3DB232FE29AE14100D@PeterPC> Message-ID: Hi Peter - On my BN1, I installed Cape's mirror which installs on the knurled windshield fixing nut. These mirrors work great because even with the side curtains on the car, they don't interfere with the mirror. http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=29&thepart=16183 The best part about these things are, after your inspection, you can just take them off in 5 minutes if you are so inclined. I wouldn't want to drill holes in anything on my BN1! Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 4:42 AM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian Deisgn > rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" mirrors - > what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door has holes > at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is going > to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the passenger side) > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 V6 Holden From 57healey at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 18:11:50 2009 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:11:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <743b1e2f0902051711g68ab587ehf6b437b8fa2b8eb4@mail.gmail.com> Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics would be great if they have a vintage feel. I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. Thanks Patton On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: > Happy New Year to Everyone, > > I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art skills > and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those that > have not seen them: > > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overview=0 > > must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Thu Feb 5 18:22:12 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 12:22:12 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0902051711g68ab587ehf6b437b8fa2b8eb4@mail.gmail.com> References: <743b1e2f0902051711g68ab587ehf6b437b8fa2b8eb4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC67@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Patton I have lots of new ones, as long as you don't mind RHD. Great pics of AHs racing at Bathurst and in high resolution too. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 12:12 PM To: andy pole Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics would be great if they have a vintage feel. I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. Thanks Patton On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: > Happy New Year to Everyone, > > I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art skills > and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those that > have not seen them: > > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overvie w=0 > > must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au http://www.team.net/archive ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From 57healey at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 18:29:26 2009 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC67@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <743b1e2f0902051711g68ab587ehf6b437b8fa2b8eb4@mail.gmail.com> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC67@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <743b1e2f0902051729j6605594fy4dbf88dd2f01c56c@mail.gmail.com> New is fine, I just don't want something to place it as modern (like racing a miata). Send me a few of your favorites if you don't mind. Thanks Patton On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:22 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day Patton > > I have lots of new ones, as long as you don't mind RHD. Great pics of > AHs racing at Bathurst and in high resolution too. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson > Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 12:12 PM > To: andy pole > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos > > Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would > share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to > blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to > put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics > would be great if they have a vintage feel. > > I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can > take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. > > Thanks > Patton > > On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: >> Happy New Year to Everyone, >> >> I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art > skills >> and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those > that >> have not seen them: >> >> > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overvie > w=0 >> >> must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! > > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." > 1977 Newport '28 > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au > > http://www.team.net/archive > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as 57healey at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Feb 5 18:44:18 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:44:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Message-ID: <8EB83E9B90DB4CD1A25FC86C363A56A0@ophrdc.org> Hello Listers, I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff to turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil seal showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for these shims. Original part numbers are: .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at all, so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping down to investigate the situation. Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find these shims? Many thanks in advance. Rich Chrysler From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 5 19:10:01 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:10:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts In-Reply-To: <8EB83E9B90DB4CD1A25FC86C363A56A0@ophrdc.org> References: <8EB83E9B90DB4CD1A25FC86C363A56A0@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Rich - I just went through this exact exercise for my A90 - I literally searched the world for these shims and even called some poor guy in Switzerland who had bought a pile of NOS Healey diff parts from a shop in the UK. Of course he had nothing I could use, and probably thought I was batty. The upshot of all of my hard work was NO ONE had this stuff, and the best solution was to modify other shims or make your own. My guess is that shims used for 6 cyl front bearings might work? If not, there has to be a shop around that has lots of shims for some reason. In my case, I just reused the shims I had and, well, it's good enough for government work. By the way, I did find these guys, at the very least you could make up a bunch of the thinnest shims and stack them together to get the spacing you need: http://www.bokers.com/glwshr Actually, they have a little search thing on their website, if you can mic the shims you have, they might have something in stock very similar. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:44 AM, Rich C wrote: > Hello Listers, > > I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In > stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. > restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff > to > turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil > seal > showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF > Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no > shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for > the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for > these shims. > > Original part numbers are: > .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 > .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 > > I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at > all, > so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping > down > to investigate the situation. > Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. > > Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find > these shims? > > Many thanks in advance. > > Rich Chrysler From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Feb 5 20:09:45 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 22:09:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts In-Reply-To: <8EB83E9B90DB4CD1A25FC86C363A56A0@ophrdc.org> References: <8EB83E9B90DB4CD1A25FC86C363A56A0@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Hi Rich, You may have already tried this but Spaenaur carry a very good selection of shim rings. http://www.spaenaur.com/view_pdf.asp?Page=D78 I usually select one with the correct I. D. and then trim the O.D. with shears to suit. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: February 5, 2009 8:44 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Hello Listers, I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff to turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil seal showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for these shims. Original part numbers are: .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at all, so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping down to investigate the situation. Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find these shims? Many thanks in advance. Rich Chrysler From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu Feb 5 23:49:30 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:49:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors Message-ID: Thanks to all who made suggestions! I appreciate that drilling holes is to be avoided if possible, although I don't have a problem if (a) it's for a good reason and (b) I get them in the right place first time! I also quite like the look of bullet mirrors (aside from the fact that I already have them, & don't really want to fork out on others - the Cape ones are nice, but A$65.00 each plus freight! You can get those mirror heads separately & the brackets would be quite easy to make. I quite like the sidescreen socket option too - I may look at making a mount for the bullet mirrors to go in there. Cheers Peter Linn From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 00:10:02 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:10:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter - Just remember one of the sides is a LH thread, don't remember which side! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 2:49 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > Thanks to all who made suggestions! I appreciate that drilling holes is to > be > avoided if possible, although I don't have a problem if (a) it's for a good > reason and (b) I get them in the right place first time! I also quite like > the > look of bullet mirrors (aside from the fact that I already have them, & > don't > really want to fork out on others - the Cape ones are nice, but A$65.00 > each > plus freight! You can get those mirror heads separately & the brackets > would > be quite easy to make. I quite like the sidescreen socket option too - I > may > look at making a mount for the bullet mirrors to go in there. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Feb 6 02:23:47 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:23:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There is another thing to be careful of. The threads on your thumb screws might be BSF or UNF. It depends on the age of the car and if these are original or after market items. I had this problem but the supplier did not wish to know about it. Regards > >Just remember one of the sides is a LH thread, don't remember which side! > >Alan > >'52 A90 >'53 BN1 >'64 BJ8 > > -- John Harper From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Feb 6 03:28:38 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 11:28:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Side mirrors Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D8614@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Hi Peter, You can do Cape-like mirrors cheaper and with a nicer design as they offer. I have just used an available round aftermarket LUCAS door mirror and bought an aftermarket knurled windshield fixing nut. Think available at MOSS or other dealers. You just need to drill a bigger hole in the fixing nut and tap threads in of same size as already in the mirror stem, think 3/16" UNF. Then Use a short threaded rod to fix the mirror to the windshield fixing nut. Put a rubber shim between nut and stem. For me that works for several years now and half price of what Cape charges. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Februar 2009 02:10 An: Peter Linn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors Hi Peter - On my BN1, I installed Cape's mirror which installs on the knurled windshield fixing nut. These mirrors work great because even with the side curtains on the car, they don't interfere with the mirror. http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=29&thepart=16183 The best part about these things are, after your inspection, you can just take them off in 5 minutes if you are so inclined. I wouldn't want to drill holes in anything on my BN1! Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 4:42 AM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian > Deisgn rules because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass > "bullet" mirrors - what's the wisdom on the best place to position > these? The driver's door has holes at the front just below the curve > of the top, but I'm not sure this is going to be the most suitable > position (and would be useless on the passenger side) > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 V6 Holden Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as josef.eckert at t-systems.com http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 05:25:01 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:25:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My Web Site Message-ID: <00a801c98855$ef591440$ce0b3cc0$@net> I have built a new page to contain copies of Service Bulletins from the 60's. Very interesting items. My thanks to Sara Carr and Durl Edwards for giving these to me. There will be additional additions in the next couple of days now that I have plowed out my driveway. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From ryan at jimryan.com Fri Feb 6 08:22:00 2009 From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:22:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools Message-ID: <498c55bc.4403be0a.02f2.ffff9883@mx.google.com> -----Original Message----- From: Pete Muir Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:22 AM To: Jim Ryan Subject: Tools DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,' What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-ups into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles with the speed of a ballistic missile for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FO [The entire original message is not included] From ah3000me at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 10:07:08 2009 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom Williams) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:07:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Message-ID: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Feb 6 10:28:32 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 12:28:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey at salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Williams Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Fri Feb 6 10:41:28 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:41:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions Message-ID: Any body got any ideas on how to pop the trunnion off the king pins. Mine are frozen on. Can I use a wheel puller some how?? I don't want to wreck anything?? Heat?? I have to replace the bushings anyway. The Filcrum bolts are a bitch too.... Thanks ... From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 10:21:53 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:21:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00bb01c9887f$67f05e80$37d11b80$@net> Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Williams Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 11:00:07 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 11:00:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <00bb01c9887f$67f05e80$37d11b80$@net> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> <00bb01c9887f$67f05e80$37d11b80$@net> Message-ID: <471534970902061000uc349f47n9af93619dfa815f5@mail.gmail.com> Looks like they allowd the domain name to expire. There are people called "domain squatters" and they buy up expird domain names and put pages like that on them. Then, they will kindly sell you back your domain name for 5K. Bunch of w#nk at rs they are. So, if you own any domain names, check your registration for how long until it expires and renew it if it's less than a year. Jody On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 10:21 AM, John Sims wrote: > Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey > Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Feb 6 11:22:17 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:22:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <00c701c98885$59f3fd40$0ddbf7c0$@net> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> <002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> <00c701c98885$59f3fd40$0ddbf7c0$@net> Message-ID: <002101c98887$d8009890$8801c9b0$@rr.com> The Carolinas Chapter of AHCA has (had?) the website www.carolinahealeys.com. That club is based around Charlotte. The Triad chapter is based around Greensboro/Winston-Salem/High Point (the "triad") and is different from the Carolinas chapter. The Triad website is www.triadahc.org. Both chapters still exist and are active. Unfortunately, both are about 250 miles away from me. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:04 PM To: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who knows if they are still around. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey at salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 11:04:26 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 13:04:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> <002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00c701c98885$59f3fd40$0ddbf7c0$@net> Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who knows if they are still around. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey at salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- From healey at salisbury.net Fri Feb 6 11:26:53 2009 From: healey at salisbury.net (Carl Brown) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:26:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> <002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <001501c98888$7c2f6360$6800a8c0@carlhome> I am contacting the hosting site. They do not bill me for the domain name every year and let the registration expire. Will get the site back up and it looks like time to go to another hosting site. Carl Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > Kinda weird, huh? > No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is > also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at > healey at salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would > like to know that something's going on with the URL. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey at salisbury.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 11:39:09 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 13:39:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <471534970902061000uc349f47n9af93619dfa815f5@mail.gmail.com> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com> <00bb01c9887f$67f05e80$37d11b80$@net> <471534970902061000uc349f47n9af93619dfa815f5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00d201c9888a$33227390$99675ab0$@net> OR --- with my service for my 7 sites, I take advantage of their automatic emails to me 60 days before expiration and I also take advantage of their program of automatically renewing my domain registrations. And, anal as I am, I check about every two months just for the H@#$ of it so I do not have that problem. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Jody Kerr [mailto:jodyfkerr at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:00 PM To: John Sims Cc: Tom Williams; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks like they allowd the domain name to expire. There are people called "domain squatters" and they buy up expird domain names and put pages like that on them. Then, they will kindly sell you back your domain name for 5K. Bunch of w#nk at rs they are. So, if you own any domain names, check your registration for how long until it expires and renew it if it's less than a year. Jody On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 10:21 AM, John Sims wrote: > Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey > Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From tdrech at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 6 12:46:18 2009 From: tdrech at sbcglobal.net (Tom Rech) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:46:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: remove trunnions Message-ID: The best way to remove the trunnions is with a hydraulic press. I would soak them in PB Blaster before putting them on the press. -----Original Message----- Taylor, Todd S Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 11:41 AM To: Healey list Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions Any body got any ideas on how to pop the trunnion off the king pins. Mine are frozen on. Can I use a wheel puller some how?? I don't want to wreck anything?? Heat?? I have to replace the bushings anyway. From NPaul72464 at aol.com Fri Feb 6 13:30:44 2009 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:30:44 EST Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools Message-ID: very funny and frighteningly true! Ned Paulsen Webster, NY In a message dated 2/6/2009 10:23:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ryan at jimryan.com writes: -----Original Message----- From: Pete Muir Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:22 AM To: Jim Ryan Subject: Tools DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,' What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-ups into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles with the speed of a ballistic missile for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FO [The entire original message is not included] Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000001) From shop at justbrits.com Fri Feb 6 13:53:31 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:53:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: For Sale !!! Message-ID: For you dual Owners!! Already sent to Jensen List. Gentlemen: I have found in my "stuff" what has been ID'ed as for (possibly) an Interceptor, NOS Tail Light Lens. I am offering to you folks FIRST and before eBay & Craig's List!! Pics and Info in "LBC Parts for Sale" on my site. Regards... Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From bj8Healey at msn.com Fri Feb 6 14:02:04 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:02:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 BJ8 quarter light mirrors and driving lights Message-ID: Good day, Has anyone out there installed quarter light mirrors as used on some of the rally cars and have any opinions on them utility; places to get them etc.) or, good period door mirrors. I am simply not happy with my wing mounted mirrors. Also, I am going to install some driving auxiliary lights this winter so I am looking for the correct type of rally light and any thoughts on vendors. I almost hit a moose last year (at speed 2 ft away) and want some more light on the "subjects." Thanks very much. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From gbrierton at hotmail.com Fri Feb 6 14:18:27 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:18:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website In-Reply-To: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com><002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> <00c701c98885$59f3fd40$0ddbf7c0$@net> References: <498C6E3C.9070808@gmail.com><002001c98880$55b24e30$0116ea90$@rr.com> <00c701c98885$59f3fd40$0ddbf7c0$@net> Message-ID: The Triad Club is "still around", have been since '79. We are struggling to get a new website up and running, while at the same time having a Hel heck of a time killing three old sites!! More info will be posted when we succeed. Gary Brierton Triad AHCA -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Sims" Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:04 PM To: "'BJ8Healeys'" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the > Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who > knows if they are still around. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Kinda weird, huh? > No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is > also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at > healey at salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would > like to know that something's going on with the URL. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > ----- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca Fri Feb 6 14:35:38 2009 From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:35:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil Message-ID: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> Gents, My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. Thanks Mal From peter at nosimport.com Fri Feb 6 14:45:16 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 15:45:16 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil In-Reply-To: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> References: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <200902061345340.SM10916@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 (20W) It has antifoaming agents, etc. But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as will jack oil. Peter C = At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >Gents, >My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. >Thanks > >Mal From gardner5 at comcast.net Fri Feb 6 14:52:30 2009 From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:52:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] shock oil In-Reply-To: <200902061345340.SM10916@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <1895080281.1284861233957150638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Try your local Harley Davidson shop. Joel BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Caldwell" To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as will jack oil. B B B B B Peter C = At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >Gents, >My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. >Thanks > >Mal Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From gvernau at containerhouse.com Fri Feb 6 15:09:20 2009 From: gvernau at containerhouse.com (G Vernau Sr) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:09:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd Message-ID: <20090206221031.302071878D7@autox.team.net> Todd, I had to use a high speed cut off wheel to cut off the top part (threaded part) of the kingpin, before the trunnion would come off. Be careful not to damage the trunnion, you can buy new kingpins several places (some of dubious quality) but I don't know where you'll find the trunnion. Good luck, George Vernau Sr From bighealey at charter.net Fri Feb 6 15:21:36 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:21:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 BJ8 quarter light mirrors and driving lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090206172136.DYM8N.92785.root@mp08> A - Go negative ground (so you can go to an alternator) B - Change to an alternator for more output (brighter lights) C - Change to halogen standard or extra bright lights D - Install Lucas lights in cross eyed configuration. If you have the silly "no go - all show" triangle lights give them away and put real lights on the car. Save by arse on a few long (5000 mile) jaunts up and down the coast and through Canada. Just by having the alternator the lights will go from yellowish to brighter white. ---- James Sailer wrote: > Good day, > > Has anyone out there installed quarter light mirrors as used on some of the > rally cars and have any opinions on them utility; places to get them etc.) or, > good period door mirrors. > > I am simply not happy with my wing mounted mirrors. > > Also, I am going to install some driving auxiliary lights this winter so I am > looking for the correct type of rally light and any thoughts on vendors. I > almost hit a moose last year (at speed 2 ft away) and want some more light on > the "subjects." > > Thanks very much. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From e-wilkins at cox.net Fri Feb 6 16:27:57 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:27:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: <498c55bc.4403be0a.02f2.ffff9883@mx.google.com> References: <498c55bc.4403be0a.02f2.ffff9883@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <6637AF26-7AC2-4DAD-81FA-3FA6B9875C61@cox.net> I went online and found the rest: EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. On Feb 6, 2009, at 7:22 AM, Jim Ryan wrote: > EIGHT-FO > > [The entire original message is not included] From loftusdesign at cox.net Fri Feb 6 17:24:39 2009 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 16:24:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non-factory BJ8 hardtop for sale Message-ID: <498CD4C7.10507@cox.net> Thought I would offer this on the Healey List before advertising on Craig's list or through the local club. I don't want to hassle with shipping such a large item so it's only avail. for pickup in the Southern California region. It's a fiberglass Astro brand hardtop which came off a very original, one owner BJ8 (it appeared to be on this BJ8 for a long time). The round badge says "Fiberglass, Astro, S. El Monte". It needs to be restored but the fiberglass and rear plexiglass window are in good shape. Below is a link to a photo of the top. Can provide more photos if you are interested. $400. http://www.loftusdesign.net/astro_hardtop.jpg Cheers, John From jsoderling at astound.net Fri Feb 6 18:23:32 2009 From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 17:23:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil References: <1895080281.1284861233957150638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3E5724F987994EBCB60BCCF282769991@Soderling> I second this. They call it Fork Oil. Use their "heavy Duty" Fork Oil. Perfect for lever shocks. Vrooom vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Peter Caldwell" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > Try your local Harley Davidson shop. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Caldwell" > To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > B B B B B Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal From dan at warner-associates.com Fri Feb 6 19:17:14 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 20:17:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: <6637AF26-7AC2-4DAD-81FA-3FA6B9875C61@cox.net> Message-ID: HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. I might add it is also used to tenderize the meaty part of your thumb. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 5:28 PM To: List Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) I went online and found the rest: EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. On Feb 6, 2009, at 7:22 AM, Jim Ryan wrote: > EIGHT-FO > > [The entire original message is not included] Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From pennell at cox.net Fri Feb 6 19:41:42 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:41:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non-factory BJ8 hardtop for sale In-Reply-To: <498CD4C7.10507@cox.net> Message-ID: <20090206214142.0YZ2P.702429.imail@eastrmwml42> John, Well I have the east coast covered. I too have a nonfactory Htop for sale. It is a Parrish top of the period for a BJ8 and is in VG shape. Fiberglass, headliner and rear window no scratches or dings. Only needs the rubber seal kit which is available for $80 last I checked. Anybody looking for a Htop for a BJ8 I will meet you in eastern VA. $300 Keith Pennell > Thought I would offer this on the Healey List before advertising on > Craig's list or through the local club. I don't want to hassle with > shipping such a large item so it's only avail. for pickup in the > Southern California region. > > It's a fiberglass Astro brand hardtop which came off a very original, > one owner BJ8 (it appeared to be on this BJ8 for a long time). The round > badge says "Fiberglass, Astro, S. El Monte". > > It needs to be restored but the fiberglass and rear plexiglass window > are in good shape. Below is a link to a photo of the top. Can provide > more photos if you are interested. $400. > > http://www.loftusdesign.net/astro_hardtop.jpg > > Cheers, > John From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 19:46:36 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:46:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: <6637AF26-7AC2-4DAD-81FA-3FA6B9875C61@cox.net> References: <498c55bc.4403be0a.02f2.ffff9883@mx.google.com> <6637AF26-7AC2-4DAD-81FA-3FA6B9875C61@cox.net> Message-ID: This is how I have used this tool successfully in the past: THOR HAMMER: When completing a ground up restoration on an Austin Healey 3000, use this special tool to swing very hard at knock offs to get the wheels on so you can drive your car for the first time in 6 months. If you are in California during the summer, also be sure to be doing this work wearing sandals. Upon successfully misstriking the knock off, be sure to plunge copper end of hammer into big toe with full force, breaking the toe and causing substantial amounts of bleeding. Striking the toe in this manner will make driving the car impossible, not to mention walking for for about a week. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:27 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > I went online and found the rest: > > EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic > jack handle. > TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. > E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any > known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. > TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of > everything you forgot to disconnect. > 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an > accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. > PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style > paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be > used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. > AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- > burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into > compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that > grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford > and neatly rounds off their heads. > PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or > bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. > HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays > is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts > not far from the object we are trying to hit. From shop at justbrits.com Fri Feb 6 20:15:15 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:15:15 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> er Dan, 'plain' old flat faced ones do NOT do NEAR a well enough job at accomplishing the above UNLESS said "tool" is a 28oz Waffle-faced (aka SERIOUS framing 'tool') swung with almost full forced 'ability' and making PERFECT "contact" !!!! BTDT (ONCE) and it gives entirely NEW meaning to 'meaty'!!!! I didn't at the time but can now just say !!!! Ed From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Fri Feb 6 20:40:08 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 19:40:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Hardtop Available Message-ID: <951327.44656.qm@web52406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> As long as we're on the subject, I have a Parrish BN7 hardtop I would like to trade for a Bugeye hardtop. I think we can consider it "in need of restoration". NYC/Hudson Valley location. Best JK From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Feb 6 21:13:52 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 22:13:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <597C37C9A79B490BA9869BE26F7B415F@GregPC> All this talk of hammers reminded me of an oldie but goodie, and one of my favorites: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) > < part of your thumb.>> > > er Dan, 'plain' old flat faced ones do NOT do NEAR a > well enough job at accomplishing the above UNLESS > said "tool" is a 28oz Waffle-faced (aka SERIOUS > framing 'tool') swung with almost full forced 'ability' > and making PERFECT "contact" !!!! > > BTDT (ONCE) and it gives entirely NEW meaning to > 'meaty'!!!! > > I didn't at the time but can now just say !!!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From Awgertoo at aol.com Fri Feb 6 21:29:12 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 23:29:12 EST Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: A woman is arrested for shoplifting a bunch of six bananas--her third such offense in less than a year. She is tried and found guilty and before pronouncing sentence the judge asks her if she had any explanation, to which she replies: "I just like bananas". Angrily the judge sentences the woman to six months in jail--one month for each banana--when her husband suddenly stands up and says "She also stole some grapes!" Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From caddi5 at comcast.net Sat Feb 7 03:41:02 2009 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 10:41:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents Message-ID: <020720091041.22818.498D653E000198C7000059222216525856CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net> Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Feb 7 03:51:31 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:51:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] AH Aero Screen Message-ID: <04085B9CA3734B34B72CCC2CF881971D@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day A friend is after an AH Aero Screen for a very special car. Does anyone have one they would be willing to part with? A reasonable number of $$$ of course. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 7 06:17:07 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 08:17:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What will they think of next Message-ID: <010801c98926$60f6cf40$22e46dc0$@net> Very interesting article in Today's New York Times ( actually Sundays but I get it on Saturday) about making motor oil out of beef tallow. Apparently the 50,000 cattle slaughtered daily just in the Oklahoma panhandle for food provides enough beef tallow to make enough motor oil to satisfy the country's needs. Question is how much petroleum is needed to process it. A certificating is pending from the American Petroleum Institute and is expected in a few weeks. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/automobiles/08BIO.html?ref=automobiles John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 06:22:25 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:22:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What will they think of next In-Reply-To: <010801c98926$60f6cf40$22e46dc0$@net> References: <010801c98926$60f6cf40$22e46dc0$@net> Message-ID: I have a good friend in the UK who is making good money doing just this exact thing. He's been doing it for about 5 years, very successful. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:17 PM, John Sims wrote: > Very interesting article in Today's New York Times ( actually Sundays but I > get it on Saturday) about making motor oil out of beef tallow. Apparently > the 50,000 cattle slaughtered daily just in the Oklahoma panhandle for food > provides enough beef tallow to make enough motor oil to satisfy the > country's needs. Question is how much petroleum is needed to process it. A > certificating is pending from the American Petroleum Institute and is > expected in a few weeks. > > > > > > http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/automobiles/08BIO.html?ref=automobiles > > > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca Sat Feb 7 07:00:35 2009 From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 09:00:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil References: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> <200902061345340.SM10916@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: Thannks for all the replies on this topic. Mal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Caldwell" To: "Mal Bruce" ; Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 4:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.18/1937 - Release Date: 02/06/09 11:31:00 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Feb 7 07:15:15 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:15:15 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents In-Reply-To: <020720091041.22818.498D653E000198C7000059222216525856CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net> References: <020720091041.22818.498D653E000198C7000059222216525856CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87CC@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Mitch, don4t do it or buy aftermarket fenders and put the originals aside and keep them in good shape. Its always a shame to cut holes in good original fenders. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von caddi5 at comcast.net Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 11:41 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Install fender vents Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as josef.eckert at t-systems.com http://www.team.net/archive From pyoas at yahoo.com Sat Feb 7 08:05:24 2009 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 07:05:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 HardTop - Texas area covered Message-ID: <121966.98849.qm@web90501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have a new NOS Parris hardtop for sale., $.450.00 Still in original primer. Contact me for info. Patrick From Warthodson at aol.com Sat Feb 7 08:12:02 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:12:02 EST Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box Message-ID: When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Feb 7 10:26:22 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 12:26:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What will they think of next References: <010801c98926$60f6cf40$22e46dc0$@net> Message-ID: Interesting, and if we can graze the cattle near an industrial area with good zinc fallout, perhaps the resulting oil will even be suitably formulated for our old cars! (or as an alternative perhaps we could add a ZZDP additive to the corn feed and achieve the same result). Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "Healey List" Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 8:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] What will they think of next > Very interesting article in Today's New York Times ( actually Sundays but > I > get it on Saturday) about making motor oil out of beef tallow. Apparently > the 50,000 cattle slaughtered daily just in the Oklahoma panhandle for > food > provides enough beef tallow to make enough motor oil to satisfy the > country's needs. Question is how much petroleum is needed to process it. A > certificating is pending from the American Petroleum Institute and is > expected in a few weeks. > > > > > > http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/automobiles/08BIO.html?ref=automobiles > > > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 7 10:51:34 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:51:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild In-Reply-To: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic ignition to start with. If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, vibrations. Kees Oudesluijs, NL john doe schreef: > looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough idle any articles out there > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From STOCKLAND at aol.com Sat Feb 7 11:31:50 2009 From: STOCKLAND at aol.com (STOCKLAND at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 13:31:50 EST Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Message-ID: Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 7 11:34:34 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 18:34:34 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c98952$ba260ff0$2e722fd0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Have you checked the earth connection....at both ends? Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com Sent: 07 February 2009 18:32 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi0 0000003) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 7 11:48:53 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:48:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498DD795.50402@chello.nl> Check, clean and refit the battery connections, use a bit of petroleum jelly to avoid future corrosion. Also check the earthing strap and its connections, again clean and apply petroleum jelly or just plain rust preventive wax. Perhaps the starter solenoid contact points are burned. Take apart, inspect, clean and if to far gone repair the contact points with silver solder and file/sand until the complete surface of the points make contact when closed. Did this many times as a student when the budget was very, very low. Alternatively throw away and buy a new one. Kees Oudesluijs STOCKLAND at aol.com schreef: > Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago > and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was > OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. > Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was > bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is > though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is > bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would > cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if > there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jon > **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on > AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Feb 7 12:01:18 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 20:01:18 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: <498DD795.50402@chello.nl> References: <498DD795.50402@chello.nl> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E2@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Hi Kees, can I send you the starter solenoid to take apart and repair? I have two or three of them and do not find the clue how to take them apart. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 19:49 An: STOCKLAND at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Check, clean and refit the battery connections, use a bit of petroleum jelly to avoid future corrosion. Also check the earthing strap and its connections, again clean and apply petroleum jelly or just plain rust preventive wax. Perhaps the starter solenoid contact points are burned. Take apart, inspect, clean and if to far gone repair the contact points with silver solder and file/sand until the complete surface of the points make contact when closed. Did this many times as a student when the budget was very, very low. Alternatively throw away and buy a new one. Kees Oudesluijs From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sat Feb 7 12:44:23 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:44:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild In-Reply-To: <498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> Message-ID: What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS > valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic > ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on > very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and > balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using > a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the > relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before > starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it > does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, > drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, > vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > >> looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what >> are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough >> idle any articles out there _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Sat Feb 7 13:11:59 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:11:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the best to do? Many thanks for all opinions. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From insptwo at msn.com Sat Feb 7 13:16:34 2009 From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:16:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) In-Reply-To: References: <498c55bc.4403be0a.02f2.ffff9883@mx.google.com> <6637AF26-7AC2-4DAD-81FA-3FA6B9875C61@cox.net> Message-ID: Alan; Did you forget that you probably had to wipe the blood of the Healey? Bill BJ7> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:46:36 +0800> From: healey.nut at gmail.com> To: e-wilkins at cox.net> CC: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest)> > This is how I have used this tool successfully in the past:> > THOR HAMMER: When completing a ground up restoration on an Austin Healey> 3000, use this special tool to swing very hard at knock offs to get the> wheels on so you can drive your car for the first time in 6 months. If you> are in California during the summer, also be sure to be doing this work> wearing sandals. Upon successfully misstriking the knock off, be sure to> plunge copper end of hammer into big toe with full force, breaking the toe> and causing substantial amounts of bleeding. Striking the toe in this> manner will make driving the car impossible, not to mention walking for for> about a week.> > > Alan> > '52 A90> '53 BN1> '64 BJ8> From tomleavy at comcast.net Sat Feb 7 13:20:37 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 20:20:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Jamaican BN4 on EBAY In-Reply-To: <425391331.2128931234038027254.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1704487724.2128981234038037550.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Greetings- If anyone is interested, there is a Healey/Jamaican on Ebay. I spoke with the owner this morning, he says that the frame is ion pretty decent shape. Good price if your car needs an undercarriage. Just search "austin healey jamaican" No financial interest. Good luck. Tom From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Sat Feb 7 13:21:19 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:21:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting new grille to bonnet BJ8 Message-ID: Hello Folks, I am attempting to fit a new grille to the opening in the bonnet of a BJ 8. The vendor who sold it to me said that it should be installed differently than the original. I didn't take this car apart so can't rely on experience. I can get it to go on the inside of the bonnet or the outside. The 3 studs from the top piece seem to line up either way. It looks better on the outside. Was the original installed from the inside? Thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat Feb 7 13:42:43 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:42:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4029BDEAACD54E72882A0C63346A774C@michael> Here is somewhere to start!! http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=189 Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com Sent: February 7, 2009 2:44 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS > valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic > ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on > very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and > balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using > a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the > relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before > starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it > does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, > drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, > vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > >> looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what >> are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough >> idle any articles out there >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com http://www.team.net/archive From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Sat Feb 7 13:54:04 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 12:54:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 top riveting Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0223E638@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> I tried riveting the 5/16 steel rivets today. No way with the air hammer I have(lenty good for aluminium rivets). Per old McMaster Carr catalogs a hammer good enough for 1/4 is pushing $500. Am I breaking new ground, trying to put in new rivets? What have others used? a sledgehammer? a machine shop? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat Feb 7 14:10:43 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 16:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C8E43B0E6E94B43804C11348CF3028C@michael> Jon, The fact that you get sparks when you short the solenoid terminals indicates that the starter motor is probably taking current (unless the cable from the solenoid to the starter is shorting to ground). If the motor has been checked then I would recommend ensuring that the engine turns freely. The symptoms you describe sound suspiciously like a tight or seized engine!! One other thing which can cause similar problems is the terminal post on the starter having turned while you were tightening the cable to it. If this happens the terminal can touch the case inside the starter. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com Sent: February 7, 2009 1:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 7 15:12:56 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 23:12:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <498E0768.4030805@chello.nl> The same really except two instead of 3 Dell'Orto's. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger > SS valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, > electronic ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank > ground on very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it > tuftrided, polished and balanced, balance and polish the piston > rods increase oil pressure by using a high volume pump if that is > available or rebuild and use shims under the relief valve spring. > Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before starting up. > Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration > allthough it does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you > may wreck the gearbox, drive shaft and differential because of > unsufficiently damped, by mass, vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > > looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out > of it what are the available options without putting in a cam > that would make a rough idle any articles out there > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 7 15:16:24 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 23:16:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <498E0838.1090607@chello.nl> Stay original. If you are going concours it is not likely that you will either thrash, race, drive fast or accelerate hard, so why bother? Kees Oudesluijs or Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will > be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be > done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. > power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original > camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the > best to do? > Many thanks for all opinions. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 15:40:42 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:40:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Simple: Clean your battery terminals, re tighten engine ground straps. On 2/8/09, STOCKLAND at aol.com wrote: > Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks > ago > and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and > took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter > was > OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. > Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the > solenoid was > bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is > though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is > bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What > would > cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as > if > there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jon > **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time > on > AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 7 16:24:22 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:24:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <014001c9897b$372f28b0$a58d7a10$@net> As Alan says, absolutely critical to make sure that your battery connections are clean and tight AND make sure that your engine ground strap connections are also clean and tight. An otherwise fully charged battery will not crank well if the ground strap is not installed correctly. To check to see if it is correctly installed, once the car is running, grab onto the carb linkeage and if you feel it hot and tingling, then your ground strap is not correct as the engine is grounding through the linkage (at least on my BN6 until I realized what was happening) John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 5:41 PM To: STOCKLAND at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Simple: Clean your battery terminals, re tighten engine ground straps. On 2/8/09, STOCKLAND at aol.com wrote: > Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks > ago > and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and > took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter > was > OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. > Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the > solenoid was > bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is > though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is > bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What > would > cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as > if > there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jon > **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time > on > AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi0 0000003) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Sat Feb 7 16:58:13 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:58:13 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: <014001c9897b$372f28b0$a58d7a10$@net> Message-ID: <<(at least on my BN6 until I realized what was happening)>> SOP on ALL LBCs I have ever worked on, John!! And IF the car has been idling a while, one CAN get a nasty burn from it!! BTDT! From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 7 17:34:17 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:34:17 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] FOR SALE 2 SEATER ( BN6/BN7 ) COMPLETE TOP/HOOD FRAME Message-ID: <30883939.214918.1234053257107.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net> black everflex hood w/grey liner covered wood bow the elusive 2 seater latches rear curved metal retainer even includes the metal "patent applied for" tag on rear bow fabric finger loop complete........$485 + shipping, estimate $25-35 most domestic locations communications or questions, off list. call 24/7 214 202-5179 reason for sale: newly restored factory hardtop is now installed for the duration. JERRY WALL BN6 ROWLETT, TX From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 7 17:40:46 2009 From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 16:40:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <339523.13456.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Jon ... when your solenoid clicks (not chatters) and the engine does not crank, turn on your head lights and try again , if you still have a NO-CRANK again tell me what the head lights do ... If the head lights do not go dim then you have a starter problem .. if the armature has an open circuit on one winding it will not crank when the brushes have stopped on that commutator segment ...do this ... remove the cover on the END of the starter and turn the armature 1/4 turn and try again , if it now cranks you have a faulty armature , the armature should have been tested on a tester called a growler ... Norman Nock TECH TALK by Norman Nock l have been writing technical articles for Healey clubs for over 25 years . After numerous requests , l have gathered them together, along with some never before published articles and had them spiral bound in book form $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA 265 pages Updated Annually Both our catalogs are on line and can be down loaded www.BritishCarSpecialists.com 209 948 8767 Tech Talk SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205 >. > The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed > the starter and took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was > told the starter was > OK. From britishcars at shaw.ca Sat Feb 7 18:28:16 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:28:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears Message-ID: <93DC2CC852E84F9F8EC7BE2127249BCB@ecarecenters.net> Hi All, I'm assembling my overdrive. Before I mate the sun gear into the planetary carrier, there is a bronze bush that has to be inserted into the seat of the planetary carrier. There is no way this bronze bush is going into the carrier without removing one of the planet gears. Each planet gears seem to have one pin holding the shaft in place...I have no idea how to get this pin out to remove the shaft?????? Any and all help appreciated. Thanks Paul From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 7 19:49:20 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 02:49:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery Message-ID: <1690398621.4666461234061360705.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Listers, My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are is a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay side) are a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, it's clear these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it seems there should be something on the driver's side but we can't find a part nor a reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know what, if anything, goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the pedals--anyone know what goes there? TIA, Bob From ynotink at msn.com Sat Feb 7 19:52:02 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 02:52:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears In-Reply-To: <93DC2CC852E84F9F8EC7BE2127249BCB@ecarecenters.net> References: <93DC2CC852E84F9F8EC7BE2127249BCB@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: I'm looking at a spare carrier I have and it looks like the recess for the thrust washer is cut so that if the washer is of the correct size it will fit between the gears. Maybe you need to dress down the circumference of the washer. That would seem to be a lot simpler and the washer won't fit properly in the recess if it is too big anyway. Bill Lawrence > From: britishcars at shaw.ca> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:28:16 -0800> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears> > Hi All,> > > > I'm assembling my overdrive.> > > > Before I mate the sun gear into the planetary carrier, there is a bronze> bush that has to be inserted into the seat of the planetary carrier. There> is no way this bronze bush is going into the carrier without removing one of> the planet gears.> > > > Each planet gears seem to have one pin holding the shaft in place...I have> no idea how to get this pin out to remove the shaft??????> > > > Any and all help appreciated.> > > > Thanks> > Paul> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From Awgertoo at aol.com Sat Feb 7 19:55:37 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:55:37 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery Message-ID: In a message dated 2/7/2009 9:49:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: There are small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the pedals-- Bob-- Hey this is a Healey 100 we're talking about! What's the sense of sealing up one hole only to have hot air leaking in another? I am not 100% certain but believe the "draft excluders" are all there was originally. They should come pretty close to the back side of the toe box when the pedals are up but I doubt they ever gave a perfect seal. Which reminds me of a joke: Question: How are a walrus and tupperware similar? Answer: They both like a tight seal. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Sat Feb 7 22:43:02 2009 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:43:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <748979.57751.qm@web50410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> You must have a 22% OD. On the 28% OD the planet carrier washer just slides in. (it did on mine, 28% for a BN2 OD) On the 22% OD The planetary gears are larger. You will need to drill out a pin to remove a gear. Detailed instructions in the excellent pdf's on various sites: Nelson Riedel's article can be found on John Simms site (5 pdf's): http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm or greasy hands garage guide to rebuild the OD (2 pdf's): http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain-index.shtml On both sites scroll down to OD section for the articles. These articles focus on triumph A-type OD's but they are almost identical (accumulator piston is larger on most triumphs) Cheers, Bert www.austin-healey.org From rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au Sat Feb 7 22:43:32 2009 From: rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au (Rod Shepherd) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:43:32 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu Message-ID: <31CBBC22112E45DAA045D39798EB4EB8@rodc151a3a212b> _____ From: Rod Shepherd [mailto:rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au] Sent: Sunday, 8 February 2009 3:17 PM To: Healey List USA (healeys at aautox.team.net) Subject: Derusting engines insitu Hello fellow listers A question without notice - has anyone ever used a mixture of 1part molasses to 10 parts water to derust an engine in situ. A mate and I believe it should work as we have used this to desrust nuts, bolts and small components of our cars but, have never tried it in the way we propose. Any ideas out there? Rod Shepherd (The Beast back on the road again) From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Sun Feb 8 01:29:20 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:29:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery In-Reply-To: <1690398621.4666461234061360705.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1690398621.4666461234061360705.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob You should have a square plate approx. 6" x 3=" with the corners removed. The edges are turned in slightly to produce an approximate =" bevel on all four sides. There are holes top and bottom centre to take. I believe, 10-32 screws. A layer of felt is fitted under this plate to seal the edges. I believe that this plate was also fitted to Austin A40 and A70 saloons but I doubt that this information will help you. You should be able to find this part in the A-H parts list under floor fittings. Blanking plate 14B 2654 Felt 14B2655 Regards > >My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping >someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round >holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are >is a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay >side) are a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, >it's clear these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it >seems there should be something on the driver's side but we can't find >a part nor a reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know >what, if anything, goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are >small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, >but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come >all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there >should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the >pedals--anyone know what goes there? > -- John Harper From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Feb 8 05:12:03 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:12:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FILLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sun Feb 8 06:17:37 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:17:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you look closely the body and clip of that cap are satin black powder coated. I had a couple like that and they are from military vehicles. This one has had the powder coating removed from the lid.. Just in case you wanted to know.... Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: February 8, 2009 7:12 AM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FI LLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ 004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From mkgoodman at att.net Sun Feb 8 06:55:51 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:55:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] STARTER PROBLEM Message-ID: <001901c989f4$f5feecc0$e1fcc640$@net> Dear Jon, The problem with your starter is a short in the windings that only occurs when the starter heats up. I had that problem with mine. I decided that I would put in a gear reduction starter and have not had a problem since. Highly recommended from me. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinheaelyessence.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Feb 8 07:49:47 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:49:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5ABB481B7A1B4BC1BFE3EEC78C301873@GregPC> I always love the auctions of rare items "new and SEALED in factory package" or "never been out of the box" that show a bunch of pictures of the item out of the package. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FILLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Feb 8 07:52:40 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 22:52:40 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive In-Reply-To: <260593485.3907471233877241319.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC5F@itfexch5.central.det.win> <260593485.3907471233877241319.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: All - Not to beat a dead horse, but the reality is you will usually be better off with an electric fan set up (if it actually keeps your car cool). With a pully mounted fan - technically it may be more efficient to use a pully mounted fan, but these are always on and always sapping power from your engine. This is even more the case at highway speeds when you really don't need a fan. An electric fan, however, will only come on when you need it, so by default it operates less often than a mechanical fan, meaning it will sap less power, esp. when you are going fast. Upside is a good electric fan should work when you need it the most - in hot stop and go traffic. You don't need alot of horsepower in this situation. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 7:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Agreed (I did mention that the advantage of electric accessories is the > ability to reduce or cut power to the motors as required). This would be a > good use of the excess computing power available in our Healeys ;) > > My main point is that it takes the (essentially) the same power to drive > the pump and/or fan, whether it comes from the engine directly or is > converted to electricity by the alternator, and that from a strictly > efficiency standpoint the conversion losses in the alternator and motors are > not inconsequential. > > Of course, due to the reverse Coriolis Effect down under the power flows > INTO the alternator from the motors, a HUGE advantage. > > > Bob From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Feb 8 08:59:27 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 10:59:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu References: <31CBBC22112E45DAA045D39798EB4EB8@rodc151a3a212b> Message-ID: Rod, I have never used it myself, but I have a friend who does a lot of restoration work who swears by this molasses treatment. It is apparently very safe and gentle on the parts, as opposed to acids or blasting mediums. cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rod Shepherd" To: Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 12:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu > _____ > > From: Rod Shepherd [mailto:rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au] > Sent: Sunday, 8 February 2009 3:17 PM > To: Healey List USA (healeys at aautox.team.net) > Subject: Derusting engines insitu > > > > Hello fellow listers > > A question without notice - has anyone ever used a mixture of 1part > molasses > to 10 parts water to derust an engine in situ. > > A mate and I believe it should work as we have used this to desrust nuts, > bolts and small components of our cars but, have never tried it in the way > we propose. > > Any ideas out there? > > Rod Shepherd (The Beast back on the road again) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From editor_reid at hotmail.com Sun Feb 8 09:08:25 2009 From: editor_reid at hotmail.com (Reid Trummel) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:08:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Newspaper Covers Calendar Car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thought that some of you might be interested that Eric Mazarak's Sprite was featured in his local newspaper as a result of being featured in the 2009 Austin-Healey Club of America Calendar. Here's a link to the story: http://www.thedailystar.com/archivesearch/local_story_037073053.html I saw and photographed his Sprite at the Sprite Jubilee in Pennsylvania last May. It's always nice to see Healeys get some ink. RT Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Feb 8 10:00:17 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 11:00:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu In-Reply-To: References: <31CBBC22112E45DAA045D39798EB4EB8@rodc151a3a212b> Message-ID: <71FDEC41E8CF4354B9EA4EB7D16C5AEB@GregPC> I have a friend who is using to derust some parts on a tricarb he is restoring--he showed me some of the parts, it works very well, but is a slow acting deal, like put it in the molasses mix on Sunday and take it out the next Saturday, if you were going to do a whole engine block you would need a way to dip it in a large container or some other way to keep the stuff on their for a few days. Greg Lemon From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Feb 8 10:17:11 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 12:17:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: You've received an answer to your question about item NOS AC COBRA Original ENOTS 3.5" ASTON FUEL FILLER CAP. Message-ID: <20090208.121711.5668.1.dwflagg@juno.com> Received this in response to asking if it were the military version of the cap. eBay sent this message to Douglas Flagg (ah56bn2). Your registered name is included to show this message originated from eBay. Learn more. Seller has responded to your question about this item Do not respond to the sender if this message requests that you complete the transaction outside of eBay. This type of offer is against eBay policy, may be fraudulent, and is not covered by buyer protection programs. Learn More. Dear ah56bn2, Hi,look like a military version but is not.Military version is paint.Regards Geros. - geros1968Did this answer your question? If not, let the seller know. NOS AC COBRA Original ENOTS 3.5" ASTON FUEL FILLER CAP. Item Id:140285048230 End time:Feb-25-09 10:07:22 PST Seller: geros1968 (1827) 99.6% Positive Feedback Member since Mar-17-06 in Cyprus Listing Status:This message was sent while the listing was active. ____________________________________________________________ Discount Online Trading - Click Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1gh4u2rqqaNaKM1K60l2tpcEBxnKaCFnc3xQxk1JSMTKeag/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ebay_95x39.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ltCurve.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of rtCurve.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of iconAlert_32x32.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of s.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of btnRespond.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 140285048230.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of iconRedStar_25x25.gif] From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 8 10:47:02 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 18:47:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E2@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <498DD795.50402@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E2@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <498F1A96.6040508@chello.nl> Josef, These are general remarks for all sorts of vehicles. The ones I did in the past were DAF, Renault, Landrover and Spitfire. If you can not take yours apart, bad luck, renew. However they were put together so they can also be taken apart. If you have several old ones break one to learn how it is build up. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com schreef: > Hi Kees, > can I send you the starter solenoid to take apart and repair? I have two or > three of them and do not find the clue how to take them apart. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 19:49 > An: STOCKLAND at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 > > Check, clean and refit the battery connections, use a bit of petroleum jelly > to avoid future corrosion. Also check the earthing strap and its connections, > again clean and apply petroleum jelly or just plain rust preventive wax. > Perhaps the starter solenoid contact points are burned. Take apart, inspect, > clean and if to far gone repair the contact points with silver solder and > file/sand until the complete surface of the points make contact when closed. > Did this many times as a student when the budget was very, very low. > Alternatively throw away and buy a new one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Feb 8 11:02:41 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:02:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover References: <2584B6D52282444EB65F179E04A895A6@pcn031> Message-ID: <5C3AC8ED06FB4F8DAF888CDAAD400CA9@ophrdc.org> Thomas, Sorry to take so long answering, I had to do some digging and measuring. According to the Spare parts List, these bolts holding the clutch assembly to flywheel are Part number 2K 5881 with lockwashers 2K 5319. These are part numbers not numbered by the standard BMC fastener number coding system, therefore they are specific to this use. I measured some originals and they are 5/16" BSF thread shouldered black phosphate hex head capscrews by about 11/16" long (measurement taken from under the heads). A 5/16" BSF thread measures 5/16" diameter but has a thread pitch of 22 T.P.I. therefore cannot be substituted by SAE threaded fasteners. DON'T lose any more! Now speaking of "can't find", I don't seem to have any record of you or your car on the Hundred Registry. Would you please be so kind as to send me all your appropriate numbers and car information, etc. so we can add you and your BN2 to the Registry? Thanks Rich Chrysler AHCA Hundred Registrar ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas-Michael Willig" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:18 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover > During the rebuild of my BN2 engine, I managed to lose the bolts which > attach the clutch cover to the flywheel. Anyone knows which size/thread > these bolts should have?? Somehow, none of the available bolts do fit. > > Thanks for any help here. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Feb 8 11:44:11 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:44:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery References: <1690398621.4666461234061360705.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Bob, If I understand your question correctly, you are wondering if there are any other sealing pieces used to seal the pedal holes in the driver's side toeboard panel? In addition to the pedals arcing approximately through the middle of the two holes, the rubber sealing pads are affixed to the little metal locator plates welded to the pedal stalks, and with both pedals under return spring pressure when at rest, these approx. 1/2" thick rubber pads do a reasonably effective job of sealing the holes. In addition, the under felts and carpets in the toeboard area are glued in place and have quite snug fitting clearance slots to the pedal stalks, just enough clearance so they don't drag when in motion. Finally, this location is actually quite protected from any splask or road grime, being well up behind the inner wheel arch. I've driven a lot of Hundreds, some appreciable distances, and leakage of air or moisture has not been an issue here. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:49 PM Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery > Listers, > > My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping > someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round > holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are is > a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay side) are > a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, it's clear > these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it seems there > should be something on the driver's side but we can't find a part nor a > reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know what, if anything, > goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are small plates on the > pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come > near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the > floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel > to help seal up the area around the pedals--anyone know what goes there? > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of May06 pics 038.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of May06 pics 046.jpg] From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sun Feb 8 11:58:18 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland In-Reply-To: References: <1690398621.4666461234061360705.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4CA985D880EC4E5CB2E64F1587201547@michael> For those night owls in Eastern Canada you can catch AHX12 doing its thing in Targa Newfoundland on TSN in reruns at midnight Monday and 3:30 a.m. on Tuesday. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun Feb 8 12:13:44 2009 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 11:13:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland In-Reply-To: <4CA985D880EC4E5CB2E64F1587201547@michael> Message-ID: <980898.7909.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Don't have too Mike; I caught the show this morning. This TSN show was much better than the Speed TV version. You and Michael Oritt certainly did some nice driving with AHX12. --Scott Morris Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Michael Salter wrote: From: Michael Salter Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland To: healeys at autox.team.net Received: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 1:58 PM For those night owls in Eastern Canada you can catch AHX12 doing its thing in Targa Newfoundland on TSN in reruns at midnight Monday and 3:30 a.m. on Tuesday. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 __________________________________________________________________ Connect with friends from any web browser - no download required. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger for the Web BETA at http://ca.messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Feb 8 12:52:52 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 14:52:52 EST Subject: [Healeys] BN7 for sale in Lexington Kentucky Message-ID: Jay Hoskins of Lexington Kentucky has a 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BN7 for sale. This car is totally disassembled and has been off the road and stored inside since 1975. I looked at it this morning and the chassis requires the normal sills, trunk floor and a bit of floor repair near the drivers pedals. Other than that it is a very straight and solid substucture. Owner reports all parts are included and I believe the engine has been rebuilt. Fenders appeared straight and needed usual doglegs and lower repair panels. I have no financial interest, just passing along the information. This car would make an excellent restoration candidate. Contact Jay at _handyman at 2hoskins.com_ (mailto:handyman at 2hoskins.com) . Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From quenty at ntelos.net Sun Feb 8 14:16:39 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 16:16:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] De rusting Message-ID: <9C1194B1-B2C4-48E2-AE38-49917219DB9B@ntelos.net> If you Google "rust removal by electrolysis" You'll find a fascinating list of sites on rust removal. The" old engines" guy even has a picture of a 1918 Chevrolet V8 Engine. I used Wash Soda and a battery charger to remove rust from a lot of healey parts, large- rear axels, and small- all those little bits that lay around rusting. It works great. Dave and Daisy From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 8 14:47:41 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:47:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] De rusting In-Reply-To: <9C1194B1-B2C4-48E2-AE38-49917219DB9B@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <> Article on my site re that, gents. I have a Spridgeteer buddy in Penn that did an ENTIRE Midget tub with the method!! Ed From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 8 14:49:07 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:49:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Newspaper Covers Calendar Car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> How come you were NOT a Lake of the Ozarks, Reid?? Ed From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Sun Feb 8 16:04:08 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 10:04:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil In-Reply-To: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> References: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC72@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Mal Yes any good quality mineral oil within that range will be okay, but best to look for a specific shock oil. I know it may be hard to find, but Penrite make a two types of shock absorber oil for lever stle shock absorbers. Have a look at http://www.penrite.com.au Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mal Bruce Sent: Saturday, 7 February 2009 8:36 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] shock oil Gents, My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. Thanks Mal ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From craigsuerice at iquest.net Sun Feb 8 19:20:59 2009 From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig and Sue Rice) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:20:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil References: <1783108A4FD74A5B889B65FCF12332CB@mal71b83fb7a5c> Message-ID: <064701c98a5d$246a2ee0$2e602bd1@iquest.net> Mal & List, Several years ago I did a spectrographic analysis of Armstrong Shock Absorber Fluid and MIL-H-5606 (aircraft hydraulic fluid). They were an almost perfect match. The shock fluid is very pricey; maybe $25.00/quart. About two years ago I bought a gallon can of MIL-H-5606 for $22.50 from the FBO (fixed base operator) at a small local airport. The alternative to the fluid problem is to have your shocks rebuilt by Peter Caldwell, and never have to worry about adding fluid. Craig Rice BN1 & BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mal Bruce" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 3:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] shock oil > Gents, > My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is > fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. > Thanks > > Mal > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as craigsuerice at iquest.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.18/1937 - Release Date: 2/6/09 11:31 AM From tld6008 at mchsi.com Sun Feb 8 18:40:47 2009 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 01:40:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu In-Reply-To: <71FDEC41E8CF4354B9EA4EB7D16C5AEB@GregPC> References: <31CBBC22112E45DAA045D39798EB4EB8@rodc151a3a212b> <71FDEC41E8CF4354B9EA4EB7D16C5AEB@GregPC> Message-ID: <020920090140.12170.498F899D000EF29600002F8A223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> Can't vouch for the molasses method but the washing soda and a DC welder at low amperage works great in very little time. I have only used this on cast iron parts and heavy gauge steel. -- Tim Davis BN7 -------------- Original message from "Greg Lemon" : -------------- > I have a friend who is using to derust some parts on a tricarb he is > restoring--he showed me some of the parts, it works very well, but is a slow > acting deal, like put it in the molasses mix on Sunday and take it out the > next Saturday, if you were going to do a whole engine block you would need a > way to dip it in a large container or some other way to keep the stuff on > their for a few days. > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sun Feb 8 18:57:57 2009 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:57:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000301c98a59$d55f3a00$801dae00$@com> Sometimes the brushes in the starter motor hang up just off of the armature.... If you rap on the outside case of the starter with a hammer, it can dislodge the brushes and you'll be able to start the motor.... however, if dust from the brushes is clogging the channel where the brushes ride it will happen again. The brushes are spring loaded to keep pressure on the armature...however, dust from worn brushes can fill up the channel and cause the symptoms you describe.... the fix is to remove the starter, open it, and clean out the area where the brushes are located... then reinstall the brushes and all should be well... -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 1:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon From pennell at cox.net Sun Feb 8 19:07:01 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:07:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey ride Message-ID: <20090208210701.UFUDM.810530.imail@eastrmwml38> Listers, Temp was 70 and sunny here in Tidewater VA today so took "Patches" the BN7 out for a 70 or so mile drive. Started out with a sticky RR brake but after 10 minutes of slow starts and stops it smoothed out. Boy! Was it great to hear the drone of that six again after 3-4 months! She ran beautifully and did not miss a lick. You know I haven't had a radio in this car since its resto in 01 and I do not miss one at all! Just love the exhaust sounds both accelerating and decelerating. Did I mention how I wound it up doing through the tunnels???? Come on spring Keith Pennell From healeydoc at verizon.net Sun Feb 8 19:40:45 2009 From: healeydoc at verizon.net (healeydoc at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 18:40:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting on TV Message-ID: We just watched a movie that had lots of LBCs in it a RHD Black Bj8 played a starring role. The Wedding Date. One more Movie chalked up for the Healey marque. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialis.com From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 8 20:48:01 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:48:01 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: <000301c98a59$d55f3a00$801dae00$@com> Message-ID: <> Gentlemen, have you ALL missed WHAT Jon Said (above)?!?!?!? I am with the ones that DID read that and think it is a ground strap or strap connection(s). Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Sun Feb 8 21:00:21 2009 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:00:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Hardtop Available In-Reply-To: <951327.44656.qm@web52406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <358342.54186.qm@web52405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> While some interest has been shown, no takers yet, so, I'd like to add that I would also be interested in trading for a BN7 soft top frame in allmost any condition. Thanks and Best JK > As long as we're on the subject, I have a Parish BN7 > hardtop I would like to trade for a Bugeye hardtop. I think > we can consider it "in need of restoration". > NYC/Hudson Valley location. > Best > JK > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Mon Feb 9 07:06:11 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:06:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd In-Reply-To: <20090206221031.302071878D7@autox.team.net> References: <20090206221031.302071878D7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Thanks , I was able to get the trunnion off but I can't get the fulcrum Bolt out now, I guess I'll have to cut that off.. got it soaking I PB blaster right now.. There's two trunnions on Ebay right now.. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G Vernau Sr Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 5:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd Todd, I had to use a high speed cut off wheel to cut off the top part (threaded part) of the kingpin, before the trunnion would come off. Be careful not to damage the trunnion, you can buy new kingpins several places (some of dubious quality) but I don't know where you'll find the trunnion. Good luck, George Vernau Sr Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Mon Feb 9 07:13:09 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:13:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil In-Reply-To: <3E5724F987994EBCB60BCCF282769991@Soderling> References: <1895080281.1284861233957150638.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <3E5724F987994EBCB60BCCF282769991@Soderling> Message-ID: How about using power steering fluid that Audi uses, that's mineral based???? http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_fluid/audi_power_steering_fluid.shtml -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Soderling Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:24 PM To: gardner5 at comcast.net; Peter Caldwell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil I second this. They call it Fork Oil. Use their "heavy Duty" Fork Oil. Perfect for lever shocks. Vrooom vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Peter Caldwell" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > Try your local Harley Davidson shop. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Caldwell" > To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > B B B B B Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Feb 9 08:25:36 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 10:25:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Current Events Message-ID: <006801c98aca$a8675160$f935f420$@net> Here's hoping that our friends from the land of OZ are OK and away from the fires. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 9 09:08:06 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 08:08:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <04AA787D-E581-42A7-9F7B-2B9E39BFFE10@sbcglobal.net> You can upgrade the cam, pistons, and lighten the flywheel and no one will ever know. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 7, 2009, at 12:11 PM, wrote: > I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will > be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be > done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. > power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original > camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the > best to do? > Many thanks for all opinions. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Mon Feb 9 09:16:41 2009 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 11:16:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <000301c98a59$d55f3a00$801dae00$@com> Message-ID: <000501c98ad1$cb4e15e0$61ea41a0$@com> I've had "rebuilders" tell me my starter was ok.... and it "was almost ok"....but they missed the hanging brush issue. The brushes can fall down and make good connection in the tech shop (partially because the starter gets bumped around a bit when they are working on it and the brushes fall to where they are supposed to be.) However, when mounted on the car, the solid, stable (hard to keep tongue in cheek when saying "stable" about Healey's...but in this case it applies) non-moving car can allow the brushes to be hung up and to not fall to where they are supposed to be.... If all that happened was the tech guy at the starter checking place applied 12 volts, the thing would probably just sing away. But when re-installed it will exhibit the sporadic non-reliable behavior... (been there, seen that) The only way to be sure, is to check that the brush channel is very clean...slippery even..:-) ... (and the hold down springs are in good nick too, of course) Thanks -skip- PS....when the "obvious" problem areas aren't discovered to be the fix, sometimes the non-obvious solutions are worthwhile investigating. I would agree that one should think that after removal and checkout, the starter should be ok and one should be looking at ground straps or other similar causes....but premature elimination of a problem area has more than once caused very long diagnosis experiences...:-)...best to cover all bases (especially if they are easily covered...:-) ) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's Shop Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 10:48 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 <> Gentlemen, have you ALL missed WHAT Jon Said (above)?!?!?!? I am with the ones that DID read that and think it is a ground strap or strap connection(s). Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as tfsbj7 at mindspring.com http://www.team.net/archive From loftusdesign at cox.net Mon Feb 9 09:03:59 2009 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 08:03:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box Message-ID: <499053EF.5090501@cox.net> Gary, The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg Cheers, John ----------------- When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary From don at anglesey.us Mon Feb 9 10:02:40 2009 From: don at anglesey.us (Don ) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 10:02:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents In-Reply-To: <020720091041.22818.498D653E000198C7000059222216525856CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net> Message-ID: Mitch, I would use steel on steel. Not sure what is meant by flange or no flange and it has been several years since mine were installed. The vents I used were very deep and I needed to cut them or the pedal boxes when the fender was fitted back to the car. The pedal boxes on both sides of my 57' interfered and I cut a couple of chunks out of vents to make the fenders fit after vent installation. They do help with the heat and my car is more of a rally replica of the period so I had no problem with cutting into the original metal. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of caddi5 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 From loftusdesign at cox.net Mon Feb 9 10:06:53 2009 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:06:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting new grille to bonnet BJ8 Message-ID: <499062AD.3090707@cox.net> Hi Wes, I had a lot of trouble reinstalling that grille on the inside (maybe the re-chrome was too heavy) but that is the way I have seen it on original unmolested cars. If you install it on the outside then the top piece w/studs might stick up too high leaving an unsightly gap and/or some of the grill will poke out from under the top piece. At least that is what mine looked like when I tried to fit the grille on the outside of the scoop. BTW, originally there were rectangular rubber packing pieces installed on the studs that help prevent dimples in the top piece when tightening the fastening nuts. Make sure you use some rubber washers between the top piece/paint, some medium locktight and only hand tighten the nuts. If you pull them too tight you can ruin the look of the top piece. Cheers, John From bighealey at charter.net Mon Feb 9 10:31:18 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 9:31:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires Message-ID: <20090209123118.AVKV6.333870.root@mp11> Hope all our friends down under are OK. I was just reading the news about the blazes. T From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Feb 9 10:58:40 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 09:58:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires In-Reply-To: <20090209123118.AVKV6.333870.root@mp11> References: <20090209123118.AVKV6.333870.root@mp11> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015029C0@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> This was posted on the nasty boys list. Ken Gidday, Have got some sad news, we have had some horrendous weather down here , two weeks of temp. ranging from 38 deg. cels. to yesterday, 46.5 (115degs Fahrenheit), bush fires all over Victoria , 85 dead already and they say toll to go higher. Over 700 houses destroyed.Owen Holmes, a Nasty Boy member, has had his property destroyed, He and his wife saved the house but everything else destroyed, his shed with his two Healeys is on the ground, His Concourse winning BN2 is just a melted pile of metal, his nasty boy is the same, car was finished except for the wiring and paint,all his machinery etc gone. They are still in the house, no water , power. The police have all the roads blocked so can't get in to help him.He very upset, his friends 1926 Chev, and my 1960 Austin Lancer, where both destroyed, it doesn't matter as long as they have survived .I will keep you informed ,every body in shock happened so quick, stay safe my friends , Lance From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 9 12:39:28 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 06:39:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015029C0@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> References: <20090209123118.AVKV6.333870.root@mp11> <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015029C0@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Message-ID: <3336E9B28EAB4D4DA8058984E26A8550@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Yes Australia is a very sober place at the moment. The news this morning is that 166 are now confirmed dead, which is just mind shattering. Thanks for thinking of us. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Freese, Ken Sent: Tuesday, 10 February 2009 4:59 AM To: bighealey at charter.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires This was posted on the nasty boys list. Ken Gidday, Have got some sad news, we have had some horrendous weather down here , two weeks of temp. ranging from 38 deg. cels. to yesterday, 46.5 (115degs Fahrenheit), bush fires all over Victoria , 85 dead already and they say toll to go higher. Over 700 houses destroyed.Owen Holmes, a Nasty Boy member, has had his property destroyed, He and his wife saved the house but everything else destroyed, his shed with his two Healeys is on the ground, His Concourse winning BN2 is just a melted pile of metal, his nasty boy is the same, car was finished except for the wiring and paint,all his machinery etc gone. They are still in the house, no water , power. The police have all the roads blocked so can't get in to help him.He very upset, his friends 1926 Chev, and my 1960 Austin Lancer, where both destroyed, it doesn't matter as long as they have survived .I will keep you informed ,every body in shock happened so quick, stay safe my friends , Lance Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive From tld6008 at mchsi.com Mon Feb 9 14:42:40 2009 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 21:42:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 Exhaust clamps Message-ID: <020920092142.25334.4990A34F000EE078000062F6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> I'd like to know the size of the clamps for the front and rear of the muffler -- Tim Davis BN7 From rjh.co at tx.rr.com Mon Feb 9 18:38:54 2009 From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 19:38:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hardtop Headliner Material In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003c01c98b20$557f24e0$007d6ea0$@co@tx.rr.com> I have for sale a partial bolt of new, correct hardtop headliner material plus the foam padding that is used with the headliner. The piece of headliner material is approximately 87" x 55", enough for one complete hardtop finish out. I purchased the material and foam from the UK. The materials are extra to my BJ8 hardtop restoration. The color is off white/cream. The material is lightweight ribbed vinyl. I can ship the materials on a roll (probably expensive) or folded (less shipping cost). If interested, please contact me offline. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Mon Feb 9 21:01:02 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:01:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 9 21:31:54 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:31:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: Patrick - Holden sells these things, including the rewired regulator boxes for really super duper cheap already: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?pCode=081.204 I have to check my pockets to see if I have the spare change.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 12:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick < Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: > G'day > > Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who > have fitted modern alternators to their cars. > > Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator > does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just > I don't like the look of them. > > I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a > generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here > in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that > have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in > the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. > > Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless > you tell the concours police how are they going to know? > > The website is www.caenterprises.com.au > > However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. > > I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for > every one sold - I wish! > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Mon Feb 9 21:36:53 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:36:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! In-Reply-To: References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC94@itfexch5.central.det.win> Bloody Hell! And I thought the Au$900 being asked here was expensive. Thanks Alan! I learn something new every day. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, 10 February 2009 3:32 PM To: Quinn, Patrick Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Patrick - Holden sells these things, including the rewired regulator boxes for really super duper cheap already: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?pCode=081.204 I have to check my pockets to see if I have the spare change.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 12:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From linwoodrose at mac.com Mon Feb 9 21:40:19 2009 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <919088C2-0624-40FE-8E8E-C7911B93DB36@mac.com> Patrick, RaceMettle in the UK has been making them http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk but they are very expensive. Is the "Down Under" variant a little more reasonable? Lin 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" 1959 AN5 Bugeye On Feb 9, 2009, at 11:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners > who > have fitted modern alternators to their cars. > > Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator > does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's > just > I don't like the look of them. > > I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a > generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here > in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that > have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even > throw in > the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. > > Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless > you tell the concours police how are they going to know? > > The website is www.caenterprises.com.au > > However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so > new. > > I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas > for > every one sold - I wish! > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as linwoodrose at mac.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Feb 9 23:24:05 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 22:24:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: alternator conversion Message-ID: Patrick, et al: Following was sent to The List on November 13, last year: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)" To: "'David Nock'" Cc: "'HEALEY LIST'" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] alternator conversion > Not necessarily, David. We have an alternator for positive earth cars in > stock which looks exactly like a Lucas C45 generator. > > Eric Frenken > Brits'n'Pieces > http://brits-n-pieces.com > > > > > ... As for polarity if you install a alternator you will need to convert > to > neg ground... From Warthodson at aol.com Tue Feb 10 08:24:30 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:24:30 EST Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box Message-ID: John, et all, I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the wiper arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The parts book indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would like to verify this because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & his is a very tight fit when oriented this way, perhaps because the tubing around the cable was badly bent. It seems to fit slightly better with the cable below the gear. Thanks, Gary In a message dated 2/9/2009 10:04:14 A.M. Central Standard Time, loftusdesign at cox.net writes: Gary, The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg Cheers, John ----------------- When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From loftusdesign at cox.net Tue Feb 10 08:58:31 2009 From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 07:58:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4991A427.4030800@cox.net> Gary, I ran into the same problem when reinstalling mine. I found they fit much better with the cable below the gear box. Cheers, John BJ7 Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > John, et all, > I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the > wiper arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The > parts book indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would > like to verify this because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & > his is a very tight fit when oriented this way, perhaps because the > tubing around the cable was badly bent. It seems to fit slightly > better with the cable below the gear. > Thanks, > Gary From f9cougar at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 10:18:08 2009 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:18:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo Message-ID: <512335.17865.qm@web34807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC From pryner at verizon.net Tue Feb 10 10:55:46 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:55:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo In-Reply-To: <512335.17865.qm@web34807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <512335.17865.qm@web34807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Try some goof off. Worked on a lot of paints for me on several surfaces. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "john close" To: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo > Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? > Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jstmorris at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 11:38:45 2009 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:38:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Magazine Collection Message-ID: <637818.7009.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello All -- Austin Healey Club USA [Pacific Centre] newsletter/magazine began in February 1970. By the end of 2008, 408 issues were printed [includes some dual-month issues]. In my collection, I now have 387 issues and 140 duplicates. Ed Driver, the AHCUSA Historian, has provided some missing issues but my collection is still short the 25 issues listed below. 1 - 1973 November 1 - 1975 March 1 - 1976 April-May 1 - 1983 May 4 - 1984 May, June, November, December 4 - 1985 January, August, September, November 8 - 1986 January, February, April, June, July, August, September, October 1 - 1990 March-April 2 - 1994 February, April-May 1 - 1996 August 1 - 2008 January I would like to get originals or a high resolution jpeg scan of each issue. If you have any of these issues and are prepared to sell, trade, scan, whatever, then do contact me off-list. An Excel inventory of the 140 duplicates is available. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 10 17:00:36 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:00:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49921524.80300@chello.nl> What ever way you fit the boxes do not forget to turn the cam wheels 180: so that you can use the unworn part of the cam wheels. Lubricate with grafite grease or MoS2 grease. Kees Oudesluijs Warthodson at aol.com schreef: > John, et all, > I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the wiper > arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The parts book > indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would like to verify this > because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & his is a very tight fit when > oriented this way, perhaps because the tubing around the cable was badly bent. > It seems to fit slightly better with the cable below the gear. > Thanks, > Gary > > > > In a message dated 2/9/2009 10:04:14 A.M. Central Standard Time, > loftusdesign at cox.net writes: > > Gary, > > The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. > > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg > > Cheers, > John > > ----------------- > > When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the > actuating cable (on a BJ7)? > > Gary > > > > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe > bemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From fortee9er at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 18:45:51 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 17:45:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question Message-ID: <701603.27809.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I replaced the starter on my 65 BJ8 with a gear reduction unit from British Starters last week and now I am looking at replacing the solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Are there any solenoid dos or don'ts that I should know about? I am concerned that there may be quality issues with solenoids like we do with distributor rotors. Is the cable from the solenoid to the starter reproduced with the correct hardware and plastic bits or should I just make my own? Thanks Jorge Garcia From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 10 19:36:48 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 10:36:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question In-Reply-To: <701603.27809.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <701603.27809.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jorge - You don't need the solenoid at all, the gear reduction starter has its own solenoid. Just put the hot leads together on one terminal on the solenoid (or bypass it all together and remove the solenoid) and run the ignition wire straight to the solenoid on the gear reduction starter. Another option is to use the push button solenoid as a "relay" to put power to the solenoid trigger on the gear reduction starter, as sometimes the draw on this line is much bigger than what the original switch wire from the ignition switch can handle. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > I replaced the starter on my 65 BJ8 with a gear reduction unit from British > Starters last week and now I am looking at replacing the solenoid and the > cable from the solenoid to the starter. > Are there any solenoid dos or don'ts that I should know about? I am > concerned that there may be quality issues with solenoids like we do with > distributor rotors. > Is the cable from the solenoid to the starter reproduced with the correct > hardware and plastic bits or should I just make my own? > Thanks > Jorge Garcia From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Tue Feb 10 19:56:31 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:56:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Digital Photo of Austin-Healey Wings Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDCB3@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day For one of my projects I am looking for a digital photo of the front of an Austin-Healey showing the wings and looking backwards towards the screen. I don't mind if it's a 100, 100/6 or 3000 but I do not want a photo of the front badge that shows the model ie the Mk2. I want just the generic wings with the Austin-Healey script and the front section of the car. I don't mind what colour, but would prefer to not see the steering wheel as it would be a giveaway that it's a right or left hand drive car. If you have one can you please send me a high resolution copy? Either to this address or to p_cquinn at tpg.com.au No there is zilch $$$ involved, just warm feelings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Awgertoo at aol.com Tue Feb 10 20:27:58 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 22:27:58 EST Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question Message-ID: This nevertheless requires both solenoids to be operational in order for the reduction starter to work, doubling your chances of failure. Take Alan's first recommendation and do away with the original solenoid entirely or if you want to keep it for appearances' sake then pull all wires to one post. Best--Michael Oritt ==================== In a message dated 2/10/2009 9:37:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, healey.nut at gmail.com writes: Another option is to use the push button solenoid as a "relay" to put power to the solenoid trigger on the gear reduction starter, as sometimes the draw on this line is much bigger than what the original switch wire from the ignition switch can handle **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 21:15:58 2009 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:15:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo In-Reply-To: <512335.17865.qm@web34807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <826222.14602.qm@web111415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> John If it was regular enamel you are in luck. Paint thinner ( mineral spirits ) or turpentine will not react with the acrylic plastic window. (stronger solvents will attack the plastic) So gentile rubbing with a very soft clean cloth soaked in paint thinner will do the trick. It may take a while so be patient. Clean up with plastic polish then plastic cleaner. If it was catalyzed enamel, solvent won't touch it. You may be able to polish it off using a three step plastic polish system. there will be three grades of polish sort of coarse, medium, and fine. Try to rub only on the paint as much as possible. Especially with the "coarse" polish. Take your time and you should be able to wear away the paint without distorting the plastic.If you have more questions contact me and I'll give you my phone number. I do this kind of thing for a living. Good luck Ray Juncal --- On Tue, 2/10/09, john close wrote: From: john close Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo To: "Healeys" Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 9:18 AM Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyray at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Feb 11 00:18:34 2009 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:18:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator In-Reply-To: <22995.97803.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jorge, we have the alternator for positive ground available. As I see from your signature you have a BJ8, which used to have a Lucas C42. All previous models of the Big Healey had a Lucas C45, which we do offer as an alternator in the original generator housing with about 40-45 amps, also for positive earth. For details see http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7701 The same is available as C42, but unfortunately not for positive earth. Probably we could make one, but this would take some days/weeks. http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7699 Best regards Eric -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:39 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 From scthomton at yahoo.com Wed Feb 11 08:05:47 2009 From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:05:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Message-ID: <487953.54032.qm@web50610.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Patrick et al, for you guys here in the colonies there is a U.S. manufacture of alternators that look like generators http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/powergen.html These claim to put out more amps than the others listed....saying 60 amps at idle. These are designed to simulate the old U.S. cars generators. I've never done the due diligence to see if the size is a match for my Healey but if you were in the market it would be worth the effort as I believe these go for around $350ish which seems to be less than the others. Steve Thomton 1963 BJ7 Works Rally replica in progress --- On Mon, 2/9/09, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Monday, February 9, 2009, 9:01 PM G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as scthomton at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 10:17:57 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:17:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heater control spacers BJ8 Message-ID: Hello Folks, I am assembling the heater control on a BJ8. The previous restorer lost amongst other things the spacers that locate the cable mechanism in between the flanges of the plastic faceplate. It looks like from the parts manual that they are straight forward tube like spacers. Could someone give me the two lengths and the OD? Many Thanks The are part numbers are: 24 B 632 Spacer-Long 24 B 633 Spacer-Short On page BP 2 of the Parts manual Wes Keyes York, maine From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 10:40:25 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:40:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Routing of Speed cable BJ8 Right hand drive Message-ID: Hello Folks, Does the cable for speedo come into the engine bay from the right angle drive and then through the bulkhead? If so which hole does it go through? This is a right hand drive car. Many thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine From tld6008 at mchsi.com Wed Feb 11 12:15:13 2009 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:15:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust Message-ID: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? Tim Davis BN7 From e-wilkins at cox.net Wed Feb 11 12:21:22 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 11:21:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust In-Reply-To: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> Message-ID: <954AF49D-F331-40EF-BEA8-50683AF03C80@cox.net> The same material is being used. Seems a bit more flimsy and prone to leaks, though. Wilko On Feb 11, 2009, at 11:15 AM, tld6008 at mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car > had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler > which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material > being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer > mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Feb 11 12:42:27 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 20:42:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Message-ID: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Hello, I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. All advice is appreciated... Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. Thanks, Tadek From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Feb 11 13:10:01 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:10:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> Message-ID: <9ED66A3EF7334C889C5669B40BD1E84F@ophrdc.org> Go with Stainless of the original spiral flex construction. It looks right, and takes hi temp. paint no problem. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Healey list" Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 2:15 PM Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral >flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard >when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement >parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay >flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 13:13:57 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? Message-ID: Hello Folks, Thanks for putting up with all my questions. I'm getting down to the nitty gritty. I have obtained two types of hose clamps from two different vendors. One has a round head slotted screw and the other a slotted hex head. Are either of them like the original? I realize both are probably repros. Thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Feb 11 13:15:38 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:15:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? References: Message-ID: <552C7CA6661345DBA7D69C41D9C823A6@ophrdc.org> Round head slotted is correct. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Weston Keyes" To: "Ahealey Ahealey" Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:13 PM Subject: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? > Hello Folks, > > Thanks for putting up with all my questions. I'm getting down to the > nitty > gritty. > > I have obtained two types of hose clamps from two different vendors. One > has a > round head slotted screw and the other a slotted hex head. Are either of > them > like the original? I realize both are probably repros. > > Thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Feb 11 13:32:41 2009 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:32:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust In-Reply-To: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> Message-ID: <8CB5A9F051810B3-F34-1979@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com> I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of the opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the original cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate with the fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex section provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby (theoretically) reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system mounts. Aloha Perry tld6008 at mchsi.com wrote: I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ From linsley46 at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 14:01:36 2009 From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 16:01:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust In-Reply-To: <8CB5A9F051810B3-F34-1979@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com> References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> <8CB5A9F051810B3-F34-1979@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I drove a Healey off the ferry in Nova Scotia once and managed to break the flex tubing and a few other things. I found a lock muffler shop who removed the flex tubing, weld in standard exhaust pipe with no flex and fixed the other items. I drove the car for about 10,000 miles before I decided to put on a stainless steel exhaust. I had no problems without the flex pipe - never really know it wasn't there. Maybe their is some technical reason it is on the car, but other than lining things up, I am not sure what. John On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 3:32 PM, wrote: > I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of > years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of the > opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the original > cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate with the > fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex section > provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby (theoretically) > reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system mounts. > Aloha > Perry > > > > tld6008 at mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral > flex > tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I > removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or > are > they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as linsley46 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 11 14:01:52 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:01:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: <49933CC0.1060404@chello.nl> I am not so sure if there are great differences in quality between the bigger brands, but Vandervell is regarded as one of the best for British cars. However the main thing is that you choose the tolerances and surface finish of the crankshaft properly and measure the play of each journal with plastigauge. Go near the tight end of the tolerances given. You may have to swap shells to get all tolerances as equal as possible. Same with camshaft, but not so critical. Kees Oudesluijs Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Wed Feb 11 14:13:41 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:13:41 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <49933CC0.1060404@chello.nl> Message-ID: <48C92F254A5643D3A84CEAC23AB8A212@tm4> Kees, The way I did it before with other engines was simply to buy next oversize bearings and have my shop do the crankshaft for this set of bearings - what do you mean by swapping shells to get the best tolerances???.. Are the bearings sold not equal?? Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: 11 lutego 2009 22:02 To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? I am not so sure if there are great differences in quality between the bigger brands, but Vandervell is regarded as one of the best for British cars. However the main thing is that you choose the tolerances and surface finish of the crankshaft properly and measure the play of each journal with plastigauge. Go near the tight end of the tolerances given. You may have to swap shells to get all tolerances as equal as possible. Same with camshaft, but not so critical. Kees Oudesluijs Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Feb 11 15:23:49 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:23:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> <8CB5A9F051810B3-F34-1979@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I believe that because of the low ground clearance, when the muffler grounds out, the flex will take the shock instead of it being telegraphed back up to the next weakest link, the cast iron manifolds. I'd sooner replace a flex section than try to repair or replace an exhaust manifold flange. Of course the flex certainly aids in the fitting up of the system onto the flange studs and muffler mounts. The manufacturers certainly didn't do the flex section to save money. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of >years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of >the opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the >original cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate >with the fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex >section provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby >(theoretically) reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system >mounts. > Aloha > Perry > > > > tld6008 at mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had > spiral flex > tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I > removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or > are > they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Feb 11 15:59:52 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:59:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust In-Reply-To: References: <021120091915.12758.499323C10004E7F6000031D6223045151403010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com> <8CB5A9F051810B3-F34-1979@webmail-de06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <004801c98c9c$73173f60$5945be20$@net> Also, since it is a flex, it makes for easier fitting considering that these cars were "cobbled together" at the factory and who knows on the various restorations over the years. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 5:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; healeyguy at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I believe that because of the low ground clearance, when the muffler grounds out, the flex will take the shock instead of it being telegraphed back up to the next weakest link, the cast iron manifolds. I'd sooner replace a flex section than try to repair or replace an exhaust manifold flange. Of course the flex certainly aids in the fitting up of the system onto the flange studs and muffler mounts. The manufacturers certainly didn't do the flex section to save money. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 16:08:05 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:08:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Routing of Speed cable BJ8 Right hand drive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wes - The routing is the same whether LHD or RHD. It goes through the hole in the center top front of the fibreglass gearbox tunnel. There is a special grommet there to keep hot drafts out of the cockpit. Cheers, Alan On 2/12/09, Weston Keyes wrote: > Hello Folks, > > Does the cable for speedo come into the engine bay from the right angle > drive and then through the bulkhead? If so which hole does it go through? > This > is a right hand drive car. > > Many thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 16:23:32 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:23:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] rear disc brake conversion Message-ID: I have the DW rear disc brake conversion and need some new rotors. Has anyone found a less expensive source for new rotors?. With current exchange rate one rotor from DW is about $207 plus shipping from England. Alternatively, does anyone know of a dimensionally close rotor that can be machined to work? Richard _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From bn1 at pacbell.net Wed Feb 11 16:25:31 2009 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:25:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! In-Reply-To: References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDC92@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <49935E6B.2010104@pacbell.net> Hi Patrick and Listers, I've been running one from a UK vendor (of course I bought when the # was still high) for several months now and am sold on them. Like you, I just couldn't stand seeing a big ol' GM one sitting right up on top in front of God and everybody. I like to keep at least a reasonably original look. I modified the regulator to look stock while the inside was just a junction block. I used the stock, painted cooling fan and painted the casing engine color but left the cast end plates bare. Even though they show Lucas, they are not correct. But when someone notices, I simply say the ear broke off the rear one and I couldn't find another early plate with the brass oiler. "Oh, I knew something was wrong." Boy old eagle eyes, you should be a concours judge! LOL (Oops, I let the cat out of the bag!) A word of caution: Be absolutely sure the main battery switch is turned off while when making the change. One big "Zap!" from the otherwise always hot wire will cause a very costly mistake. DAMHIK I'm also changing to all LED's including the instrument panel, but that's a story for another day. Bill Barnett '53 BN1 (with even fewer original parts) >> G'day >> >> Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who >> have fitted modern alternators to their cars. >> >> Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator >> does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just >> I don't like the look of them. >> >> I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a >> generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here >> in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that >> have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in >> the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. >> >> Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless >> you tell the concours police how are they going to know? >> >> The website is www.caenterprises.com.au >> >> However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. >> >> I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for >> every one sold - I wish! >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia From michaelgladwin at mac.com Wed Feb 11 17:05:26 2009 From: michaelgladwin at mac.com (Michael Gladwin) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:05:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb foul Message-ID: <49321F45-CC5D-4B68-888B-C486226E9FF1@mac.com> Calling the Tricarb genius bar. I have just rebuilt my carbs and am having trouble setting the chokes. The rear jet-head (black plastic cap) is fouling the steering column when the choke is out, in fact it restricts choke movement. There is about .040 inch clearance with choke in on a cold engine. The jets are new and correctly fitted. (I thought about cutting one inch out of the middle of the steering column but decided that not having a choke and therefore not being able to start the car was probably the safer option). All I can think of is worn engine mounts but they look good, or is there a cranked jet for the rear that did not come with the kit - nothing in the parts list. Please advise, the weather is good here and I need a fix. Mike Gladwin BT7 II From quenty at ntelos.net Wed Feb 11 17:07:58 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:07:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim References: Message-ID: <5831F2D2-C2F2-4889-AD4C-606EEBA9D710@ntelos.net> Begin forwarded message: From: David Schweninger Date: February 11, 2009 7:03:47 PM EST To: Subject: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim Ok Jim. The first thing to do is figure out what is the biggest part you want to remove the rust from. Keep in mind long pieces can be done one half at a time. I used a plastic kitty litter bucket. (not the one used by the cats, the one used by the market). you then place pieces of iron (steel) around the sides of the bucket. I used 16GA. cold rolled sheet. You can use anything that contains Iron. I used the sheet because I could drill holes in the upper corners and hook them all together with 12Ga. solid copper wire (stripped). In order to hang parts in the tub I bent a piece of heavy copper wire so it would lay across top of the tub without touching the steel plates. I notched the rim of the bucket. This is about a 5 gallon bucket so I put in about 3 cups of Washing Soda. Fill the tub with water as required and your ready to go. Pick a part and hang it on the cross bar. Hook the minus clip of battery charger to your part and the plus clip to the steel plates. Keep in mind this process splits the water back into hydrogen and oxygen (bubbles) in small quantities. If you get a lot of bubbles try putting the charger on 6V. Keep it out in the open with adequate ventilation.In other words don't put it in a cabinet and close the door. I left really rusty stuff in over night. some things only a few hours. Most of the rust will fall off or you can knock it off. If there is loose paint with rust under it, it will sometimes fall off too. You can't hurt any thing by leaving it in too long. The water and soda is non toxic altho it gets pretty goopy after a while. I remove the parts and wash them off under running water. I use a wire scrub brush or steel wool. Sometimes there is a black scum which washes off easily. I blow dry everything as it will start to rust in a matter minutes. Paint, plate or oil ASAP. Hope this helps Dave and Daisy On Feb 8, 2009, at 10:58 PM, wrote: alright dave, tell me how you do that? the world wants to know. hjim > -------Original Message------- > From: David Schweninger > Subject: [Healeys] De rusting > Sent: Feb 08 '09 21:16 > > If you Google "rust removal by electrolysis" You'll find a > fascinating list of sites on rust removal. The" old engines" guy even > has a picture of a 1918 > Chevrolet V8 Engine. > I used Wash Soda and a battery charger to remove rust from a lot of > healey parts, large- rear axels, and small- all those little bits that > lay around rusting. > It works great. > > Dave and Daisy > _______________________________________________ From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 17:21:25 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 00:21:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim In-Reply-To: <5831F2D2-C2F2-4889-AD4C-606EEBA9D710@ntelos.net> References: <5831F2D2-C2F2-4889-AD4C-606EEBA9D710@ntelos.net> Message-ID: Hi Dave, I only have one question, regarding the washing soda. I have always thought that you only need to use about one tablespoon per gallon. Does using more enhance the process? Richard > From: quenty at ntelos.net > To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:07:58 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim > > Begin forwarded message: > > From: David Schweninger > Date: February 11, 2009 7:03:47 PM EST > To: > Subject: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim > > Ok Jim. > The first thing to do is figure out what is the biggest part you want > to remove the rust from. Keep in mind long pieces can be done one half > at a time. > I used a plastic kitty litter bucket. (not the one used by the cats, > the one used by the market). you then place pieces of iron (steel) > around the sides of the bucket. > I used 16GA. cold rolled sheet. You can use anything that contains > Iron. I used the sheet because I could drill holes in the upper > corners and hook them all together with 12Ga. solid copper wire > (stripped). > In order to hang parts in the tub I bent a piece of heavy copper wire > so it would lay across top of the tub without touching the steel > plates. I notched the rim of the bucket. > This is about a 5 gallon bucket so I put in about 3 cups of Washing > Soda. Fill the tub with water as required and your ready to go. Pick a > part and hang it on the cross bar. Hook the minus clip of battery > charger to your part and the plus clip to the steel plates. > Keep in mind this process splits the water back into hydrogen and > oxygen (bubbles) in small quantities. If you get a lot of bubbles try > putting the charger on 6V. Keep it out in the open with adequate > ventilation.In other words don't put it in a cabinet and close the door. > > I left really rusty stuff in over night. some things only a few > hours. Most of the rust will fall off or you can knock it off. If > there is loose paint with rust under it, it will sometimes fall off too. > You can't hurt any thing by leaving it in too long. The water and soda > is non toxic altho it gets pretty goopy after a while. > I remove the parts and wash them off under running water. I use a wire > scrub brush or steel wool. Sometimes there is a black scum which > washes off easily. > > I blow dry everything as it will start to rust in a matter minutes. > Paint, plate or oil ASAP. > > Hope this helps > > Dave and Daisy > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009 From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Feb 11 18:14:58 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 12:14:58 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healeys and the Australian Bushfires Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDCDB@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Just received this and thought I would pass on what happens to an Austin-Healey when it's in the way of a bushfire. The photos are on the Austin-Healey Owners Club of Victoria website at www.healeyvic.com.au Then click on Australian Bush Fires. Note how the front shock absorbers have melted allowing the front suspension to drop down. The photos are courtesy of Lance Clark who has been helping owner Owen Holmes. Thankfully their lives were spared. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From quenty at ntelos.net Wed Feb 11 18:15:22 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 20:15:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim In-Reply-To: References: <5831F2D2-C2F2-4889-AD4C-606EEBA9D710@ntelos.net> Message-ID: Richard, Hello I'm not sure if there is a correct amount. I reference an article by Andrew Westcott. He tried various % and wound up at 10%. He is primarily concerned with restoring small artifacts. Then---other than small, maybe our Healeys qualify. Google his name. Interesting web site. Dave PS I forgot to mention Wescott says to keep metals other than iron out of the tank. I stripped a steel part with a brass rivet and it worked fine. maybe it degrades the solution. On Feb 11, 2009, at 7:21 PM, richard mayor wrote: Hi Dave, I only have one question, regarding the washing soda. I have always thought that you only need to use about one tablespoon per gallon. Does using more enhance the process? Richard From rthrift at cox.net Wed Feb 11 19:31:29 2009 From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 18:31:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090211213129.K4SYK.53147.imail@fed1rmwml25> My guess is that more washing soda just increases the current. That's good, IF 1) the power supply can handle it and 2) the foaming doesn't get too violent. It depends on the setup. Either one of those issues could be the limiting factor in any specific setup. More current means more chemical reaction happens in a given time (also more heat is generated). A tablespoon per gallon should work but it would probably clean up FASTER with more soda, until you have so much current that the voltage starts dropping. The current is more important here than the voltage is. So if you can switch from 12 to 6 volts but double the current capacity of the charger (and throw in more soda), that would also be good, as far as speed goes Don't use stainless as an electrode. It generates some chromium which is hazardous. Richard Thrift ---- David Schweninger wrote: Richard, Hello I'm not sure if there is a correct amount. I reference an article by Andrew Westcott. He tried various % and wound up at 10%. He is primarily concerned with restoring small artifacts. Then---other than small, maybe our Healeys qualify. Google his name. Interesting web site. Dave PS I forgot to mention Wescott says to keep metals other than iron out of the tank. I stripped a steel part with a brass rivet and it worked fine. maybe it degrades the solution. On Feb 11, 2009, at 7:21 PM, richard mayor wrote: Hi Dave, I only have one question, regarding the washing soda. I have always thought that you only need to use about one tablespoon per gallon. Does using more enhance the process? Richard From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 20:07:54 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:07:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healeys and the Australian Bushfires In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDCDB@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDCDB@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: I don't know what to say other than.... "that just plain sucks." Being from California originally, I've had several friends lose everything in fire, it can be one of the most devastating things to happen to anyone. One very important tip for people who have their cars in sheds or workshops in the bush or forest - a simple step to prevent fire is to cover the underside of the eves, or even better if you have a corrugated metal shed is to put corrugated metal which covers the eves at an angle, or get rid of the overhang altogether: This is a big fire hazard: /\ / \ / \ /| |\ | | | | This is an improvement: /\ / \ / \ /_ _\ | | | | This is better This is the best: /\ / \ / \ / \ \ / | | OR /\ / \ / \ | | | | | | It's the eves that always let the cinders come up inside the structure and set it on fire. Another really good thing to have for a big workshop like this is to put hanging fire breaks from the ceiling (using metal or fire rated dry wall), say every 15 feet or so and at least 3 feet of depth which will keep smoke and cinders that rise up from moving from one sector of the shed/workshop to the next. Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 9:14 AM, Quinn, Patrick < Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: > G'day > > Just received this and thought I would pass on what happens to an > Austin-Healey when it's in the way of a bushfire. > > The photos are on the Austin-Healey Owners Club of Victoria website at > > www.healeyvic.com.au > > Then click on Australian Bush Fires. > > Note how the front shock absorbers have melted allowing the front > suspension to drop down. > > The photos are courtesy of Lance Clark who has been helping owner Owen > Holmes. Thankfully their lives were spared. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu Thu Feb 12 00:33:16 2009 From: cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:33:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Message-ID: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> Does anyone have any experience with using inexpensive ($100 or less) hand held two-way radios to communicate between lead and sweep cars to help keep groups together? Do they work OK? Any recommendations on brands or models? Thanks, Charlie Frazer From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 12 00:44:21 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 01:44:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: ensen-cars] any members near Cleveland, Brisbane? Message-ID: >From a (Jensen) Mate on Oz, Gents !! -----Original Message----- From: steve fzr [mailto:steve_fzr at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:30 PM To: jensen list Subject: [Jensen-cars] any members near Cleveland, Brisbane? Hi Folks, I'm interested in a non-Jensen in Cleveland, Brisbane. I'm trying to find someone who can have a lok and make sure it's not excessively noisy Can anyone help? Regards, Steve C Melbourne - Aus 1966 CV-8 Mk III 1969 Interceptor Mk 1.5 From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Feb 12 00:48:52 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:48:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb foul In-Reply-To: <49321F45-CC5D-4B68-888B-C486226E9FF1@mac.com> References: <49321F45-CC5D-4B68-888B-C486226E9FF1@mac.com> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500533836D@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Mike, Just use shims on the left hand front engine mount to raise the engine a bit on left hand side. That should solve your problem. Had the same on my car. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Michael Gladwin Gesendet: Donnerstag, 12. Februar 2009 01:05 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Tri-carb foul Calling the Tricarb genius bar. I have just rebuilt my carbs and am having trouble setting the chokes. The rear jet-head (black plastic cap) is fouling the steering column when the choke is out, in fact it restricts choke movement. There is about .040 inch clearance with choke in on a cold engine. The jets are new and correctly fitted. (I thought about cutting one inch out of the middle of the steering column but decided that not having a choke and therefore not being able to start the car was probably the safer option). All I can think of is worn engine mounts but they look good, or is there a cranked jet for the rear that did not come with the kit - nothing in the parts list. Please advise, the weather is good here and I need a fix. Mike Gladwin BT7 II _________ From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Feb 12 00:59:36 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:59:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <909718.27354.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><498DCA26.3010509@chello.nl> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750052D87E3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500533837A@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Many thanks to all responded to my Tricarb engine question. Consensus seems that there is no big difference in power output using the standard cam or the BJ8 one. I first thought the BJ8 one will set more horses free. So I will do the rebuild with what I have, dynamic balancing the crankshaft together with damper, flywheel and clutch assembly. I do not want to lighten the flywheel, as this would be a one way road and I like to keep original parts in genuine shape. Maybe that give me less responsive engine, as with lightened flywheel, but I am not a racer. So can live with that. Thanks again to all suggestions. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Eckert, Josef Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 21:12 An: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the best to do? Many thanks for all opinions. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 12 01:00:49 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 02:00:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> Message-ID: Hi Charlie!!! <> Only ever used the 'real' thing or CB!! But, read on. <> TOTALLY depends on prevailing 'conditions'. By definition (and licensing), they are VERY low power, so IN THERORY they only work in a "line of sight" situation, i.e. tip of antennae to tip of antennae!! BUT, in most cases the foregoing is actually not true!! They DO (no matter what the conditions) have limited range. If you are hoping to get a 10 - 12 mile distance then mountain-top-to-mountain-top is a qualified maybe!! <> Motorola or Kenwood. I am adding Mark Endicott (not sure if he is still here since he sold his BIG Healey - still has Frogeye) as he is more "current product" knowledgeable !! Mark, you can send your comments to me and I will forward to Healeys List. Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 12 01:35:54 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 02:35:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: [9issa] FW: Watch this child genius! Message-ID: Just when we had accepted that Rich & Gary (Listers - non-Listers not acknowledged) ARE genius, one of my "Joke" Listers sent THIS!!! http://tinyurl.com/bgoq5z OR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkPNoW7_0bkhttp://www.yo utube.com/watch?v=LkPNoW7_0bk This kid is UN-real !!!!! From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 02:00:31 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:00:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <48C92F254A5643D3A84CEAC23AB8A212@tm4> References: <48C92F254A5643D3A84CEAC23AB8A212@tm4> Message-ID: <4993E52F.90009@chello.nl> Tadek, The shells are made within a certain tolerance band, which means that there are very small differences in size. The same when you have a crankshaft reground, these are also ground within a certain tolerance band. If you have the smallest journal of the crankshaft with the largest diameter bearing, the play in that position will be slightly larger than in the rest. That is why you use the plastigauge, to find out whitch shells should be combined with which journal to get an as even as possible play in each bearing/journal. Kees Oudesluijs Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > Kees, > > The way I did it before with other engines was simply to buy next oversize > bearings and have my shop do the crankshaft for this set of bearings - what > do you mean by swapping shells to get the best tolerances???.. Are the > bearings sold not equal?? > > Best, Tadek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] > Sent: 11 lutego 2009 22:02 > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? > > I am not so sure if there are great differences in quality between the > bigger brands, but Vandervell is regarded as one of the best for British > cars. However the main thing is that you choose the tolerances and > surface finish of the crankshaft properly and measure the play of each > journal with plastigauge. Go near the tight end of the tolerances given. > You may have to swap shells to get all tolerances as equal as possible. > Same with camshaft, but not so critical. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > >> Hello, >> >> I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 >> > engine > >> rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. >> >> All advice is appreciated... >> >> Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the >> engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Tadek >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 02:06:24 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:06:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb foul In-Reply-To: <49321F45-CC5D-4B68-888B-C486226E9FF1@mac.com> References: <49321F45-CC5D-4B68-888B-C486226E9FF1@mac.com> Message-ID: <4993E690.2000804@chello.nl> I suppose you can shim out the engine mounts to get enough clearance? Kees Oudesluijs Michael Gladwin schreef: > Calling the Tricarb genius bar. I have just rebuilt my carbs and am > having trouble setting the chokes. The rear jet-head (black plastic > cap) is fouling the steering column when the choke is out, in fact it > restricts choke movement. There is about .040 inch clearance with > choke in on a cold engine. The jets are new and correctly fitted. (I > thought about cutting one inch out of the middle of the steering > column but decided that not having a choke and therefore not being > able to start the car was probably the safer option). > > All I can think of is worn engine mounts but they look good, or is > there a cranked jet for the rear that did not come with the kit - > nothing in the parts list. Please advise, the weather is good here > and I need a fix. > > Mike Gladwin > BT7 II > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 03:09:36 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:09:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> References: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> Message-ID: All - Rather than walkie talkies.... if you have a mobile phone with even basic graphics/data ability, this is something that probably would work wonders to tracking cars that are traveling in groups: http://www.google.com/latitude/intro.html I have been using it here in Hong Kong with my Blackberry and my wife's Nokia, and it is AWESOME. You don't even need GPS (although the GPS readings are more accurate)... it'll determine your location by pinging the cell sites and any nearby WiFi terminals, and plot it on Google Maps. Crazy technology. Great way to keep tabs on your kids too even if they don't have a GPS phone. The only thing about it is I notice it tends to draw the battery at a rate twice the normal standby time, but if you have an in car charger this is no big deal. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 3:33 PM, Charlie Frazer wrote: > Does anyone have any experience with using inexpensive ($100 or less) hand > held two-way radios to communicate between lead and sweep cars to help keep > groups together? Do they work OK? Any recommendations on brands or models? > Thanks, > Charlie Frazer_______________________________________________ From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 03:18:54 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:18:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: Tadek - Unfortunately, the Isreali company "County" has basically under priced everyone else out of the AH bearing business, probably in the last 5 years, and now it is next to impossible to get decent bearings for the Healey 100. County bearings are single metal tin bearings, and several racers have complained that they only last maybe two races before needing replacement. Other daily driver users have complained about these bearings as well. The best bearings, by far (that were available until only a couple of years ago) were Vandervell bearings. They are tri-metal layered bearings and will easily last the lifetime of your car (if you maintain the engine properly). If you are lucky, you may be able to find some old stock if you shop around a bit. You can also try some of the race shops, like Dennis Welch, Cape-International or possibly British Car Specialists (in California) and see if they have any ideas. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 3:42 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 03:22:10 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:22:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo Message-ID: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> Will this fit AH's? http://cgi.ebay.nl/ROVER-P6-2000-2200-NEW-BRAKE-SERVO-GIRLING-BRAKES_W0QQitemZ200308700802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200308700802&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Kees Oudesluijs From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 03:28:13 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:28:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo In-Reply-To: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> References: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees - I believe these will work on the Austin Healey. These are the no-name copies of the Lockheed servo unit, which is the aftermarket replacement for the original Girling unit. if you watch Ebay, these regularly come up on UK ebay for 99 pounds buy it now. The good thing with these is you will be able to use Lockheed rebuild kits with them in the future if necessary. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 6:22 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Will this fit AH's? > > http://cgi.ebay.nl/ROVER-P6-2000-2200-NEW-BRAKE-SERVO-GIRLING-BRAKES_W0QQitem Z200308700802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item20 0308700802&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 03:44:17 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:44:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo In-Reply-To: References: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4993FD81.6010808@chello.nl> Alan, This is not the original Lockheed or replica Lockheed servo, but a Girling servo, look at the clamp colar around the servo. I put it on the forum for anyone who may need it. Perhaps it is the same as used originally in the AH's. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Kees - > > I believe these will work on the Austin Healey. These are the no-name > copies of the Lockheed servo unit, which is the aftermarket > replacement for the original Girling unit. if you watch Ebay, these > regularly come up on UK ebay for 99 pounds buy it now. > > The good thing with these is you will be able to use Lockheed rebuild > kits with them in the future if necessary. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 6:22 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Will this fit AH's? > http://cgi.ebay.nl/ROVER-P6-2000-2200-NEW-BRAKE-SERVO-GIRLING-BRAKES_W0QQitemZ200308700802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200308700802&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 03:47:47 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:47:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo In-Reply-To: References: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4993FE53.8010403@chello.nl> Sorry Alan, My mistake, you are probably right after all. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Kees - > > I believe these will work on the Austin Healey. These are the no-name > copies of the Lockheed servo unit, which is the aftermarket > replacement for the original Girling unit. if you watch Ebay, these > regularly come up on UK ebay for 99 pounds buy it now. > > The good thing with these is you will be able to use Lockheed rebuild > kits with them in the future if necessary. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 6:22 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Will this fit AH's? > http://cgi.ebay.nl/ROVER-P6-2000-2200-NEW-BRAKE-SERVO-GIRLING-BRAKES_W0QQitemZ200308700802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200308700802&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 03:54:19 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:54:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo In-Reply-To: References: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4993FFDB.6000903@chello.nl> Alan, This may be the one. http://cgi.ebay.nl/RECONDITIONED-ASTON-MARTIN-DB2-4-GIRLING-BRAKE-SERVO_W0QQitemZ320340394635QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item320340394635&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Kees - > > I believe these will work on the Austin Healey. These are the no-name > copies of the Lockheed servo unit, which is the aftermarket > replacement for the original Girling unit. if you watch Ebay, these > regularly come up on UK ebay for 99 pounds buy it now. > > The good thing with these is you will be able to use Lockheed rebuild > kits with them in the future if necessary. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 6:22 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Will this fit AH's? > http://cgi.ebay.nl/ROVER-P6-2000-2200-NEW-BRAKE-SERVO-GIRLING-BRAKES_W0QQitemZ200308700802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200308700802&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 04:31:31 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:31:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo In-Reply-To: <4993FFDB.6000903@chello.nl> References: <4993F852.2000509@chello.nl> <4993FFDB.6000903@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees - Yes, this is very close to the Girling Mk1 servo used on BJ8s. The can size, however, is smaller. This is probably for a Sunbeam Tiger. The lister doesn't know what he's talking about, as far as I know they didn't put servos on AM DB 2/4s... it didn't even have disc brakes. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 6:54 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Alan, > This may be the one. > > http://cgi.ebay.nl/RECONDITIONED-ASTON-MARTIN-DB2-4-GIRLING-BRAKE-SERVO_W0QQi temZ320340394635QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=ite m320340394635&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318< http://cgi.ebay.nl/RECONDITIONED-ASTON-MARTIN-DB2-4-GIRLING-BRAKE-SERVO_W0QQi temZ320340394635QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=ite m320340394635&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3 A1318> > Kees Oudesluijs From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Feb 12 06:14:38 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:14:38 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> References: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> Message-ID: <000601c98d13$dea88190$9bf984b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Yes, I've used them like that. In the UK we have regulations which render most available sets pretty useless as they are restricted on power. I bought mine in the US however. So....the one issue that I confronted was that the signals can get lost in built up areas unless one is pretty much within line of sight. They are a lot better than nothing however and my pair did rescue one of our cars whilst trying to do a short cut in the Paris suburbs once....not an area where one might care to stop and ask the way! Also quite useful skiing as long one is not separated by too much mountain mass. Useful sailing too.....if the boat is in a foreign harbour, UK phones cost a fortune to use and may be u/s if the boat is, say at low tide, deep in the marina and/or the incoming phone is below the waterline. And the kids love them... Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Frazer Sent: 12 February 2009 07:33 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Does anyone have any experience with using inexpensive ($100 or less) hand held two-way radios to communicate between lead and sweep cars to help keep groups together? Do they work OK? Any recommendations on brands or models? Thanks, Charlie Frazer Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk http://www.team.net/archive From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Feb 12 06:23:35 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:23:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: <000601c98d13$dea88190$9bf984b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <82BCABC2-CAA8-433B-9644-CA954C5FF064@jcomm.uoregon.edu> <000601c98d13$dea88190$9bf984b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <97A784F4511643E6A8E8972C259B3CFA@michael> Hi Charlie, We use Motorola Talkabout radios http://www.motorola.com/consumers/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=54643d7c52b8d110VgnV CM1000008406b00aRCRD for support crew communications in Targa Newfoundland and they are quite satisfactory up to about 3 - 4 km. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: February 12, 2009 8:15 AM To: 'Charlie Frazer'; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Yes, I've used them like that. In the UK we have regulations which render most available sets pretty useless as they are restricted on power. I bought mine in the US however. So....the one issue that I confronted was that the signals can get lost in built up areas unless one is pretty much within line of sight. They are a lot better than nothing however and my pair did rescue one of our cars whilst trying to do a short cut in the Paris suburbs once....not an area where one might care to stop and ask the way! Also quite useful skiing as long one is not separated by too much mountain mass. Useful sailing too.....if the boat is in a foreign harbour, UK phones cost a fortune to use and may be u/s if the boat is, say at low tide, deep in the marina and/or the incoming phone is below the waterline. And the kids love them... Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Frazer Sent: 12 February 2009 07:33 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Does anyone have any experience with using inexpensive ($100 or less) hand held two-way radios to communicate between lead and sweep cars to help keep groups together? Do they work OK? Any recommendations on brands or models? Thanks, Charlie Frazer From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 12 06:27:44 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 05:27:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: <499423D0.4020608@comcast.net> Well, I immediately had to Google 'Vandervell,' and came across this bit of trivia, which I thought interesting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tony_Vandervell Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > Tadek - > > Unfortunately, the Isreali company "County" has basically under priced > everyone else out of the AH bearing business, probably in the last 5 years, > and now it is next to impossible to get decent bearings for the Healey 100. > County bearings are single metal tin bearings, and several racers have > complained that they only last maybe two races before needing replacement. > Other daily driver users have complained about these bearings as well. > > The best bearings, by far (that were available until only a couple of years > ago) were Vandervell bearings. They are tri-metal layered bearings and will > easily last the lifetime of your car (if you maintain the engine properly). > If you are lucky, you may be able to find some old stock if you shop around > a bit. > > You can also try some of the race shops, like Dennis Welch, > Cape-International or possibly British Car Specialists (in California) and > see if they have any ideas. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From rpmengr at bellsouth.net Thu Feb 12 06:38:54 2009 From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:38:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] walkie-talkies Message-ID: <4994266E.501@bellsouth.net> I have been using some Radio Shack walkie-talkies for several years and they work fine with one exception-in by 100 with the top down you need to keep them close so you can hear someone talking. Mine have a range of 6 miles and appear to work at that distance. I use mine most of the time to communicate with my wife who is reluctant to leave her Suburban for the comfort of my 100. Bob, BN1 From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Thu Feb 12 07:27:51 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:27:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sender orientation BJ8? Message-ID: Hello Folks, Which way does the terminal for the fuel sender face? Towards the front or the rear? The parts manual seems to have it pointing towards the rear. It may not matter. It seems to go in both ways. Thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 07:33:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 22:33:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sender orientation BJ8? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wes - Technically I believe it is best to face forward so that the float is as close to the fuel line pick up as possible. That way you will always know how much fuel is over the pickup, which matters if you are going up a long hill. It'll train you to tap the brakes from time to time to slosh fuel up to the pickup line if you are low on gas. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 10:27 PM, Weston Keyes wrote: > Hello Folks, > > Which way does the terminal for the fuel sender face? Towards the front > or the rear? The parts manual seems to have it pointing towards the rear. > It > may not matter. It seems to go in both ways. > > Thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Feb 12 08:24:21 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:24:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: <000601c98d13$dea88190$9bf984b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: Charlie: You might want to consider Marine radios. You can buy hand held units for around $100 a pop and are not restricted by line of sight. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Frazer Sent: 12 February 2009 07:33 To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Does anyone have any experience with using inexpensive ($100 or less) hand held two-way radios to communicate between lead and sweep cars to help keep groups together? Do they work OK? Any recommendations on brands or models? Thanks, Charlie Frazer Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From britishcars at shaw.ca Thu Feb 12 09:31:48 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:31:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: Hi Alan, When I did my rebuild, I asked my parts supplier to source me tri-metal bearings.....I was told that an apparently little known fact is that County makes both single as well as tri-metal bearings.....sure enough, my new bearings came in and were tri-metal and made by County. I took them down to a performance engine shop and they confirmed that they were of good quality. When I dug deeper, I found that County is primarily a marketing company and outsources much of it's manufacturing to third parties and that they can supply a wide range of quality depending upon what the purchaser/wholesaler requests.... Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining the quality and not County?? Just a thought. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 2:19 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Tadek - Unfortunately, the Isreali company "County" has basically under priced everyone else out of the AH bearing business, probably in the last 5 years, and now it is next to impossible to get decent bearings for the Healey 100. County bearings are single metal tin bearings, and several racers have complained that they only last maybe two races before needing replacement. Other daily driver users have complained about these bearings as well. The best bearings, by far (that were available until only a couple of years ago) were Vandervell bearings. They are tri-metal layered bearings and will easily last the lifetime of your car (if you maintain the engine properly). If you are lucky, you may be able to find some old stock if you shop around a bit. You can also try some of the race shops, like Dennis Welch, Cape-International or possibly British Car Specialists (in California) and see if they have any ideas. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 3:42 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca http://www.team.net/archive From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Feb 12 10:37:15 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:37:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <35DBA811D5F14F278E4D2C46C90835A2@LeonardPCPC> As Ed says, they are low power. From my experience, they work fine if there are only one or two cars in your caravan and they stay reasonably close together. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: Cc: "Mark" Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 12:00 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies > Hi Charlie!!! > > > TOTALLY depends on prevailing 'conditions'. > By definition (and licensing), they are VERY low power, so IN THERORY > they only work in a "line of sight" situation, i.e. tip of antennae to tip > of antennae!! BUT, in most cases the foregoing is actually not > true!! > They DO (no matter what the conditions) have limited range. If you are > hoping to get a 10 - 12 mile distance then mountain-top-to-mountain-top > is a qualified maybe!! > > > Ed From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 12 11:09:47 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:09:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: <9463746E-665F-4028-BF7C-F1CA64D164B9@sbcglobal.net> Yes they do make two different Healey bearings. One is a singe metal bearing and the other is a Tri Metal Bearing. If you install the tri metal bearing you must be sure and line bore the block. We also now have the TRI Metal Bearings available. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com > > When I dug deeper, I found that County is primarily a marketing > company and > outsources much of it's manufacturing to third parties and that > they can > supply a wide range of quality depending upon what the purchaser/ > wholesaler > requests.... > > Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining > the quality > and not County?? From britishcars at shaw.ca Thu Feb 12 11:32:59 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:32:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <9463746E-665F-4028-BF7C-F1CA64D164B9@sbcglobal.net> References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> <9463746E-665F-4028-BF7C-F1CA64D164B9@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <503449DC98FE40B8B800E1290749A301@ecarecenters.net> Thanks for your input David... While I did Line Bore my block, I am curious as to why it is particularly necessary for the Tri-metal bearings? Paul _____ From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 10:10 AM To: PG Cc: 'Alan Seigrist'; 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Yes they do make two different Healey bearings. One is a singe metal bearing and the other is a Tri Metal Bearing. If you install the tri metal bearing you must be sure and line bore the block. We also now have the TRI Metal Bearings available. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com When I dug deeper, I found that County is primarily a marketing company and outsources much of it's manufacturing to third parties and that they can supply a wide range of quality depending upon what the purchaser/wholesaler requests.... Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining the quality and not County?? From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Thu Feb 12 12:00:45 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:00:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Cam Specs Message-ID: Anyone have the 100M cam specs available so I can tell my cam grinder? Maybe a better profile for the 4 cylinder? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Thu Feb 12 12:22:35 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:22:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rene Cades Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502A0F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Rene Cades died yesterday. She was a long time Healey owner and enthusiast in Southern California. She hosted many many club events and had lots of contact with the Healey family. She will be missed by many around the world. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 ________________________________ Rene Stefani Cades Rene Stefani Cades (Goldblatt) of Fountain Valley, California passed away February 11, 2009. Born December 16, 1935 in Lancaster, Ohio to Gertrude and Edward Goldblatt, the family moved to Columbus where Rene grew up and graduated from Bexley High School and The Ohio State University. She then moved to California, married J. Richard Cades and raised three children. After raising her family, Rene graduated in 1978 with a BA in Nursing from California State University, Los Angeles. She worked as a surgical and critical care nurse and teacher throughout Orange County most recently at Western Medical Center in Santa Ana. Rene was a loving Mother, Grandmother, Aunt and fabulous friend and colleague. She was instrumental in keeping a strong family value in the sense of continual communications. She never missed sending a birthday card or a special occasion or a chance to share family news and this legacy will be instilled in our children for generations to come. She is survived by daughters Jennie Stevens (Trip) and Marcia Cades (Sharon), son Michael Cades and granddaughters Shaina and Danya Stevens. May her name and memory be a blessing. Services will be held at Harbor Lawn Mt. Olive Memorial Park, Costa Mesa, California on Sunday, February 15 at 11 am. Donations may be made to the City of Hope or Jewish National Fund in Rene's honor. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Rene Stephanie Cades Obituary.doc] From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Thu Feb 12 13:31:37 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 15:31:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color of spring for bonnet release rod BJ8 Message-ID: Hello Folks, Please advise on the color of the spring that returns the bonnet release rod. I mean the one near the horn not the one by the latch. I have seen pics from fellow listers. Some show a black spring and some show a silver or zinc colored one. Also where does the outer end of the return spring go? The one by the latch that has a black plastic cover on it. I can't find a hole anywhere. Many thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine From MGIROUX at SGL.COM Thu Feb 12 14:07:00 2009 From: MGIROUX at SGL.COM (Michael Giroux) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:07:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What thickness and type of aluminum should be used to repair my BT7 shrouds ? Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090212154630.038f4650@10.1.0.3> What thickness and type of aluminum should be used to repair my BT7 shrouds ? Michael Giroux 1962 BT7 From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 12 15:10:23 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 16:10:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What thickness and type of aluminum should be used to repair my BT7 shrouds ? In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090212154630.038f4650@10.1.0.3> Message-ID: Archives has a TON of info, Michael. From Awgertoo at aol.com Thu Feb 12 15:17:56 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:17:56 EST Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Message-ID: Marine handheld radios operate on VHF and are limited to line-of-sight communications--perhaps you might get 3-5 miles on open water from a 5 watt set, less on land. It is illegal to use Marine radios for land communications. Best--Michael Oritt In a message dated 2/12/2009 10:25:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, dan at warner-associates.com writes: Charlie: You might want to consider Marine radios. You can buy hand held units for around $100 a pop and are not restricted by line of sight. Dan **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From Awgertoo at aol.com Thu Feb 12 15:40:52 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:40:52 EST Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Message-ID: In a message dated 2/12/2009 5:23:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ahbn6 at verizon.net writes: AND, you need a FCC license to operate one on water. (Or at least you did when I had a boat several years ag0) Charley-- They dropped that a few years back. You still need a license to operate a land-base station which is the only legal way to use a VHF when not on the water, though pilots and even cabbies use them in the Keys and probably other places as well. Best--Michael **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Feb 12 15:23:52 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00a801c98d60$962edc00$c28c9400$@net> AND, you need a FCC license to operate one on water. (Or at least you did when I had a boat several years ag0) John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Awgertoo at aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 5:18 PM To: dan at warner-associates.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Marine handheld radios operate on VHF and are limited to line-of-sight communications--perhaps you might get 3-5 miles on open water from a 5 watt set, less on land. It is illegal to use Marine radios for land communications. Best--Michael Oritt In a message dated 2/12/2009 10:25:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, dan at warner-associates.com writes: Charlie: You might want to consider Marine radios. You can buy hand held units for around $100 a pop and are not restricted by line of sight. Dan From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Thu Feb 12 16:16:41 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:16:41 EST Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies Message-ID: We use CB Radios for our Healey trips. They work well in the noisy Healeys and add a bit of fun social chatter. I use one from Radio Shack because my cars are negative ground. Others use a Uniden model that you can buy at truck stops. Some big rigs are positive ground and Uniden makes a positive ground model for those trucks. For an antenna I use a mirror mount antenna bracket designed to clamp on the support bracket for the side mirrors on a big rig. With a little enlarging of the bolt holes it will clamp on the rear bumper bracket and stay permanently attached to the car. Then I use a 5/8 wave antenna that screws on easily (and removes easily). Measure the length of antenna cable you will need carefully, you will be surprised how long it needs to be if you hide it inside your interior. It really helps if you tune your antenna. Radio Shack sells a meter for this. Our club bought one that we share. I also use a extension speaker because it makes it a lot easier to hear with the top down. On my BJ8 I wired the console speaker as the CB speaker. When we arrive at an event we carry the personal radios. We all tend to go our own ways on purpose but if someone needs help or is making a beer run everyone is just a click away. Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000004) From rdavies1 at cox.net Thu Feb 12 16:37:14 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 15:37:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Walkie Talkies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50352BBA960746A7B4FDEC873B54B252@OfficeDell> ...or is making a beer run everyone is just a click away. Jim Werner.. -------------------------------------- NOW that's a good use! :-) Ron Davies Laguna Hills From quenty at ntelos.net Thu Feb 12 16:46:07 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:46:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear jet In-Reply-To: <57EFB856-BDD5-40F4-BC13-26C0291D07B7@mac.com> References: <39B36728-13B3-4807-B753-43ABEE79774F@ntelos.net> <57EFB856-BDD5-40F4-BC13-26C0291D07B7@mac.com> Message-ID: Yes to both questions. I think your problem is with the motors position. Check the rear mounts also. laterally as well as vertically. If you would like a better picture let me know. Dave and Daisy On Feb 11, 2009, at 8:35 PM, Michael Gladwin wrote: Dave, is the head piece co-linear with the jet - it appears canted in the picture. Are all of the manifold/heat-shield/carb spacers the same thickness? Thanks for the pic. Mike On Feb 11, 2009, at 7:29 PM, David Schweninger wrote: > Here is what mine looks like. It's inside the column. > > > > > Rear jet From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Feb 12 17:31:54 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:31:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Motorhead 101 - Unique Metal Shop Group Use Opportunity Message-ID: <22587344.1234485114905.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FABRICATORS o ENGINEERS o METAL ARTISTS o ADVANCED HOBBYISTS o Not enough room at home to build that special project? o Got the savvy and experience but not the proper tools? INTRODUCING : THE METAL SHOP The South Bay Do-It-Yourself Metal shop A unique new way to do projects that require more than a "home shop" could ever provide in a reasonable time share, club-like atmosphere in the South Bay. Easy freeway access . This is a fully equipped heated metalworking shop space that artists, and metalworking enthusiasts can utilize on a monthly basis with 24 hour, 7 day per week access. OPEN HOUSE INVITATION Saturday, February 14th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Sunday, February 15th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Come by and see the shop space, and the tools - Refreshments will be served Meet the people you could be working with. The Metal Shop 184B Morris Lane, Campbell, CA 95008 408-395-3783 evenings ask for Bob www.themetalshop.org We are ready to start operation and accept monthly memberships. o What tools are provided in the shop? The shop has a Bridgeport Milling machine with digital readout, 16"x40" metal lathe, machine tooling and measuring tools, drill presses, TIG welding. MIG welding, Oxyacetylene, compressed air, hand and power tools, and moreb&. o Can I use "The Metalshop" anytime? Yes, 24 hours a day 7 days a week during your paid up month. o How many people will use the shop and what does it cost to sign up? The shop is being offered to the first 10 members, each paying $250 per month. Rent for each month will be due on the last Saturday of the previous month. For users that consume excessive amounts of electricity, and consumables like welding gas there will be an additional charge. o About Bob, The shop Director: Bob Seinfeld has previously taught metalworking and welding for more than thirty years. Additional skill sets involve building electric cars for the highway, and mentoring high school robotics teams that participate in the US FIRST Robotics program. DON'T MISS OUT ON THIS UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY - CHECK IT OUT Look at the web site www.themetalshop.org RSVP to joyce at joycesteinfeld.com or 408-395-3783 From ynotink at msn.com Thu Feb 12 17:34:54 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 00:34:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: References: <7FBE1603551940BCB75A349A5A99CCCD@tm4> Message-ID: I see Dennis Welch is advertising Glacier brand. I think they are supposed to be very good.Bill Lawrence> Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:18:54 +0800> From: healey.nut at gmail.com> To: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> CC: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for?> > Tadek -> > Unfortunately, the Isreali company "County" has basically under priced> everyone else out of the AH bearing business, probably in the last 5 years,> and now it is next to impossible to get decent bearings for the Healey 100.> County bearings are single metal tin bearings, and several racers have> complained that they only last maybe two races before needing replacement.> Other daily driver users have complained about these bearings as well.> > The best bearings, by far (that were available until only a couple of years> ago) were Vandervell bearings. They are tri-metal layered bearings and will> easily last the lifetime of your car (if you maintain the engine properly).> If you are lucky, you may be able to find some old stock if you shop around> a bit.> > You can also try some of the race shops, like Dennis Welch,> Cape-International or possibly British Car Specialists (in California) and> see if they have any ideas.> > Alan> > '52 A90> '53 BN1> '64 BJ8> > > On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 3:42 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz> wrote:> >> Hello,>>>> I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine>> rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best.>>>> All advice is appreciated...>>>> Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the>> engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?..>>>> Thanks,>>>>>> Tadek>> _______________________________________________>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>>>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com>>>> http://www.team.net/archive> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 18:02:10 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 09:02:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Something for the kids out there Message-ID: All - For one reason or another, I fell into the ownership of one of these for my 2 year old son (a BMW mini). Click on this link, then select the catalog in the upper right hand corner: http://www.toystoys.it/ You'll see they make Fiat 500s (original), the new Fiat 500 Abarth!, Ferrari GTO (amongst others), Mercedes Gullwing, and at least a dozen modern classics... an awesome collection. More importantly, the cars are beautifully made from very high quality materials... and the electric circuits are first rate. Anyway, if any of you have little guys & gals running around, I'd REALLY recommend one of these great cars.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From Editorgary at aol.com Thu Feb 12 18:12:39 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 20:12:39 EST Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: In a message dated 2/12/09 11:11:21 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining the quality > and not County?? > > Just a thought. > M That could be. I had one of the seniormost folks at MOSS motors tell me quite sincerely that they don't buy the expensive high-quality stuff because "everyone knows that British car owners are cheap, and confronted by a higher price from one supplier or for a version of a part compared to another, they will always buy the cheaper part. So why should we stock the more expensive stuff?" Incidentally, that person is still a very senior person at Moss, well over the head of Kelvin Dodd, the person doing procurement now. If you do have a question re Moss parts, you might try e-mailing Kelvin - doddk at mossmotors.com Cheers Gary ************** Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Feb 12 18:58:22 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 20:58:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts References: Message-ID: <3FC2B4CFD3854897AA2F0AA3A87BA585@ophrdc.org> Gary, I quite agree with what the Moss fellow said about most Healey owners being "cheap". I know it's a terribly generalized statement, which in itself can be dangerous especially on a list like this where all "levels" of enthusiast resides. However, I've seen and experienced all too often where I'll try to find and lead the person to the "right" part, not because they asked, but because I happen to know they'll be needing it (stupid me), only to have them turn up their nose at it figuring they'll somehow find it cheaper somewhere else, even if it's made of unobtanium! Or the owner will be told where to find the best or the correct part, but they'll ignore the advise only to try to find it cheaper from a source whose part I know and tell them is inferior. They'll save a dime at the outset, only to struggle with the inferior part and regret it later. A learning curve in what is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby? I suppose so, but if the vendor can sell the junk all day long to the ignorant, how can we expect the vendor or the manufacturer to invest money to tool up something that's proper and correct? Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:12 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts > In a message dated 2/12/09 11:11:21 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining the >> quality >> and not County?? >> >> Just a thought. >> M > That could be. I had one of the seniormost folks at MOSS motors tell me > quite > sincerely that they don't buy the expensive high-quality stuff because > "everyone knows that British car owners are cheap, and confronted by a > higher price > from one supplier or for a version of a part compared to another, they > will > always buy the cheaper part. So why should we stock the more expensive > stuff?" > Incidentally, that person is still a very senior person at Moss, well over > the > head of Kelvin Dodd, the person doing procurement now. If you do have a > question re Moss parts, you might try e-mailing Kelvin - > doddk at mossmotors.com > Cheers > Gary From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Feb 12 18:59:45 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 20:59:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sender orientation BJ8? References: Message-ID: Wes, The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Weston Keyes" To: "Ahealey Ahealey" Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 9:27 AM Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sender orientation BJ8? > Hello Folks, > > Which way does the terminal for the fuel sender face? Towards the > front > or the rear? The parts manual seems to have it pointing towards the rear. > It > may not matter. It seems to go in both ways. > > Thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 12 19:39:06 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 20:39:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <3FC2B4CFD3854897AA2F0AA3A87BA585@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <> Whilst 'the Moss fellow' IS correct Gary, Rich is only somewhat 'correct' by saying "Healey Owners". LOL I have (somewhat dubiously??) celebrated my 25+ year of not only being a 'shop' but a "Parts Supplier" business for the major marques!! The order of CHEAP (with worst at the top) IS (in my experience): Midget Sprite tied with MGB MG (the entire rest of the family) Triumph (all) Austin-Healey Jags (XK series of cars) Minis. The rest don't count in my case as there is not enough 'history' for me to have an 'opinion' (yes, I know what the word connotates). Over the years, the 1st four have been the majority of my business therefore I AM quite 'qualified' to make my 'statement' !! LOL Now ask me WHO the absolute LOUDEST 'b*tchers' and 'moaners' and 'complainers' are ?!?!?! If you guessed Spridgeteers, you WOULD be correct. !! Rich & Gary have known me for DECADES (oops, sorry to let the cat out of the bag) and Rich ESPECIALLY 'knows' I am nuts!! Lucky for him (AND the lovely Lyn) he doesn't know that I have gotten WORSE due to the foregoing!!!!! LOL Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com PS: Rich, kiss yer bride for me!!! From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Feb 12 23:19:50 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:19:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <403EDA3BA1AE4F53ACCAFD8C89B2B4C0@tm4> Many thanks for the input!.. So, I understand this is how the market looks like: - Vandervell, in general not available, NOS only - Glacier - from DW - King (County tri layer) - BCS and maybe others - County single layer - everyone :-) Tadek From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 12 23:30:26 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:30:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49951382.6060608@chello.nl> The problem is that it is very difficult for the "public" to determine the quality of goods. As a former consumer researcher I found that there is not neccesarily a relation between price and quality. So the blame is not always on the customers buying cheap. It is mainly some of the trade to blame, they want to make an extra buck selling low quality stuff for high quality prices, thus muddling the picture. Dlso seals of approval like the German T|V are no indication of quality and sometimes even the opposit. Experienced buyers/restorers have sorted the proper sellers with knowledge of the goods they are selling from the slick salesman. Novices have yet to learn. Kees Oudesluijs Ed's Shop schreef: > < about most Healey owners being "cheap".>> > > Whilst 'the Moss fellow' IS correct Gary, Rich > is only somewhat 'correct' by saying "Healey Owners". > LOL > > I have (somewhat dubiously??) celebrated my 25+ > year of not only being a 'shop' but a "Parts Supplier" > business for the major marques!! > > The order of CHEAP (with worst at the top) IS > (in my experience): > > Midget > Sprite tied with MGB > MG (the entire rest of the family) > Triumph (all) > Austin-Healey > Jags (XK series of cars) > Minis. > The rest don't count in my case as there is > not enough 'history' for me to have an 'opinion' > (yes, I know what the word connotates). > > Over the years, the 1st four have been the > majority of my business therefore I AM quite > 'qualified' to make my 'statement' !! LOL > > Now ask me WHO the absolute LOUDEST 'b*tchers' > and 'moaners' and 'complainers' are ?!?!?! > > If you guessed Spridgeteers, you WOULD be correct. > !! > > Rich & Gary have known me for DECADES (oops, sorry > to let the cat out of the bag) and Rich ESPECIALLY > 'knows' I am nuts!! Lucky for him (AND the lovely > Lyn) he doesn't know that I have gotten WORSE due > to the foregoing!!!!! LOL > > Ed > Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com > > PS: Rich, kiss yer bride for me!!! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Thu Feb 12 23:29:27 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:29:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: <4A257F5DCDDD4ED6A11771986F8C56AF@tm4> Rich, I simply cannot understand why anyone in their right mind, owning a AH now would look for the cheaper/lower quality stuff. It is always more expensive in the end, so why would people insist o paying less when it will always end up in a higher bill??? This is so illogical, or maybe I am just weird.. Tadek From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Fri Feb 13 06:20:25 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 08:20:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5963BD60ED2D4CB188CB58819BD54CB8@michael> Having been in the British parts business for many years I have to agree with the "very senior person at Moss". We used to have an expression... "There are three things that our customers look for in parts: Price, price and price". Top quality and perfection are usually not included in the lowest price parts and it takes a very experienced restorer to recognize that that is the case. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com Sent: February 12, 2009 8:13 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In a message dated 2/12/09 11:11:21 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Perhaps it is a case of the N.A. wholesalers who are determining the quality > and not County?? > > Just a thought. > M That could be. I had one of the seniormost folks at MOSS motors tell me quite sincerely that they don't buy the expensive high-quality stuff because "everyone knows that British car owners are cheap, and confronted by a higher price from one supplier or for a version of a part compared to another, they will always buy the cheaper part. So why should we stock the more expensive stuff?" Incidentally, that person is still a very senior person at Moss, well over the head of Kelvin Dodd, the person doing procurement now. If you do have a question re Moss parts, you might try e-mailing Kelvin - doddk at mossmotors.com Cheers Gary ************** Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp000000 02) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com http://www.team.net/archive From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Feb 13 06:26:30 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:26:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <4A257F5DCDDD4ED6A11771986F8C56AF@tm4> References: <4A257F5DCDDD4ED6A11771986F8C56AF@tm4> Message-ID: <1FBA8F65FB9941D4BCE4F2CAAFB5E30A@GregPC> Tadek, while I certainly can't get in the mind of "the average healey parts buyer" at least here in the US we have two major suppliers of parts, Moss and Victoria British, and many mid-level to minor suppliers, Moss and VB have big catalogs listing hundreds if not thousands of parts for our cars, you may have one or both, if you look in the catalog for most parts there is a parts diagram (usually a reprint of the factory) and a two or three word parts description and a price. You have both books, looks like the same part, described as the same part, you buy the one that costs less. Many of the mid a minor distributors get there parts from Moss (not all) and so they get the same thing that the bui boys sell. I am now restoring a Triumph--some of the mid level guys, including the Roadster Factory and British Parts Northwest, list both tri-metal and single metal main bearings--so you can choose, this is a much better way for the buyer they have the knowledge and the choice. So because of the way Moss and VB list the parts in their catalog I can see why they go with the cheapest to compete, but they certainly could list the parts where options are being manafuactured for the higher and lower option quality parts. Maybe the bean counters don't want them to carry so much stock, which is actually somewhat understandable as they also sell service and same day shipping and stock a relatively large variety of low volume bits already. Maybe they don't want to add even more pages and complexity to their catalogs, but I doubt they would mind adding pages as long as what they are listing sells. So we can vote with our wallets and go to the guys that offer the quality bits and or let the guys that don't know that we want them. But for now that is the way it is. Greg Lemon From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Feb 13 06:59:01 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 08:59:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts References: <4A257F5DCDDD4ED6A11771986F8C56AF@tm4> Message-ID: I roger that It never makes sense to go cheap on something that we all intend to last forever. We may not always be able to afford the very best, but we should buy the best we can afford. Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 1:29 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts > Rich, > > I simply cannot understand why anyone in their right mind, owning a AH now > would look for the cheaper/lower quality stuff. It is always more > expensive > in the end, so why would people insist o paying less when it will always > end > up in a higher bill??? > > This is so illogical, or maybe I am just weird.. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Fri Feb 13 07:15:43 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 06:15:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <5963BD60ED2D4CB188CB58819BD54CB8@michael> Message-ID: I need a QUALITY headlight switch for a 76 Midget. The one I ordered from the big name supplier fell apart. I have no idea how this part could ever work for any one. Way too fragile. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 5:20 AM To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Having been in the British parts business for many years I have to agree with the "very senior person at Moss". We used to have an expression... "There are three things that our customers look for in parts: Price, price and price". Top quality and perfection are usually not included in the lowest price parts and it takes a very experienced restorer to recognize that that is the case. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From Warthodson at aol.com Fri Feb 13 08:00:35 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:00:35 EST Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: Have you looked at "Holden"? _http://www.holden.co.uk/default.asp_ (http://www.holden.co.uk/default.asp) Gary Hodson In a message dated 2/13/2009 8:16:35 A.M. Central Standard Time, bighealey at charter.net writes: need a QUALITY headlight switch for a 76 Midget. **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From Warthodson at aol.com Fri Feb 13 08:03:40 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:03:40 EST Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: ____________________________________ From: Warthodson To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sent: 2/13/2009 8:56:01 A.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts I worked, briefly, at Victoria British, many years ago. At that time, they offered the customer Lucas parts or the option of less expensive repro parts. They also offered MGB fenders from the original tooling or less expensive repro fenders. They even had a note in the catalog that indicated the less expensive fenders might need more work to get them to fit. Sales of the more expensive parts were almost non-existent. The complaints about the fenders were so numerous & costly to VB that they actually stopped selling them & only offered the better part. I don't know if that is still true today. I am often amazed at how often a reply to a question on this list is not directed to the to the original question, but "how to do it cheaper". Gary Hodson ____________________________________ Nothing says I love you like flowers! _Find a florist near you now_ (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) . **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 08:15:17 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 23:15:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: But guys, this was probably in the 80's and 70's when our cars weren't worth much and BMC was bankrupt. Even MGAs are worth 20K plus now... putting cheap parts on a car worth that much just don't make sense. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 11:03 PM, wrote: > ____________________________________ > From: Warthodson > To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > Sent: 2/13/2009 8:56:01 A.M. Central Standard Time > Subj: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts > > > I worked, briefly, at Victoria British, many years ago. At that time, they > offered the customer Lucas parts or the option of less expensive repro > parts. > They also offered > MGB fenders from the original tooling or less expensive repro fenders. > They > even had a note in the catalog that indicated the less expensive fenders > might need more work to get them to fit. Sales of the more expensive parts > were > almost non-existent. The complaints about the fenders were so numerous & > costly to VB that they actually stopped selling them & only offered the > better > part. I don't know if that is still true today. > I am often amazed at how often a reply to a question on this list is not > directed to the to the original question, but "how to do it cheaper". > Gary Hodson > > > > > > > ____________________________________ > Nothing says I love you like flowers! _Find a florist near you now_ > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002 > ) > > . > **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you > now. ( > http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Feb 13 10:33:04 2009 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 09:33:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think there are two types of transactions. The guy who works on his own "baby" out of love and the guys trying to rebuild for profit. (not you guys on this forum that seem to have very high standards but the rip off guy who sold me my BJ8 many years ago. I've replaced everything or will as the junk fails). At 70 mph on the freeway you don't need failures. I wouldn't by a discounted parachute, would you? Rich Kahn> Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 23:15:17 +0800> From: healey.nut at gmail.com> To: Warthodson at aol.com> CC: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Getting decent quality parts> > But guys, this was probably in the 80's and 70's when our cars weren't worth> much and BMC was bankrupt.> > Even MGAs are worth 20K plus now... putting cheap parts on a car worth that> much just don't make sense.> > Alan> > '52 A90> '53 BN1> '64 BJ8> > > On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 11:03 PM, wrote:> > > ____________________________________> > From: Warthodson> > To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> > Sent: 2/13/2009 8:56:01 A.M. Central Standard Time> > Subj: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts> >> >> > I worked, briefly, at Victoria British, many years ago. At that time, they> > offered the customer Lucas parts or the option of less expensive repro> > parts.> > They also offered> > MGB fenders from the original tooling or less expensive repro fenders.> > They> > even had a note in the catalog that indicated the less expensive fenders> > might need more work to get them to fit. Sales of the more expensive parts> > were> > almost non-existent. The complaints about the fenders were so numerous &> > costly to VB that they actually stopped selling them & only offered the> > better> > part. I don't know if that is still true today.> > I am often amazed at how often a reply to a question on this list is not> > directed to the to the original question, but "how to do it cheaper".> > Gary Hodson> >> >> >> >> >> >> > ____________________________________> > Nothing says I love you like flowers! _Find a florist near you now_> > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002> > )> >> > .> > **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you> > now. (> > http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002)> > _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Healeys at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> >> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com> >> > http://www.team.net/archive> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl Fri Feb 13 14:36:30 2009 From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 22:36:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <1FBA8F65FB9941D4BCE4F2CAAFB5E30A@GregPC> Message-ID: <0C82B2885A6A4C58A5D92FA032D73C3B@tm4> Greg, I am sorry, I still do not get it. I have to say I do not go for the part that costs less, but is of superior quality. Engine bearings cost below $50-200/set, rebuild goes into thousands. So, why choose cheaper and rebuild sooner?? I know I can get the cheapest bumpers, but why would I, if they need to be replated/replaced after a short time. This will cost me more in the end. It's a fairly simple economical equation for me.. There has been so many discussions on quality of the parts offered - trunk handles not fitting, gaskets not cut right, body panels being wrong shape, bumpers in wrong shape, etc, etc. For God's sake, it takes just a little more effort/cost to do the part right, an it takes soooo much effort/time/money to fix it.. Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon at neb.rr.com] Sent: 13 lutego 2009 14:27 To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Tadek, while I certainly can't get in the mind of "the average healey parts buyer" at least here in the US we have two major suppliers of parts, Moss and Victoria British, and many mid-level to minor suppliers, Moss and VB have big catalogs listing hundreds if not thousands of parts for our cars, you may have one or both, if you look in the catalog for most parts there is a parts diagram (usually a reprint of the factory) and a two or three word parts description and a price. You have both books, looks like the same part, described as the same part, you buy the one that costs less. Many of the mid a minor distributors get there parts from Moss (not all) and so they get the same thing that the bui boys sell. I am now restoring a Triumph--some of the mid level guys, including the Roadster Factory and British Parts Northwest, list both tri-metal and single metal main bearings--so you can choose, this is a much better way for the buyer they have the knowledge and the choice. So because of the way Moss and VB list the parts in their catalog I can see why they go with the cheapest to compete, but they certainly could list the parts where options are being manafuactured for the higher and lower option quality parts. Maybe the bean counters don't want them to carry so much stock, which is actually somewhat understandable as they also sell service and same day shipping and stock a relatively large variety of low volume bits already. Maybe they don't want to add even more pages and complexity to their catalogs, but I doubt they would mind adding pages as long as what they are listing sells. So we can vote with our wallets and go to the guys that offer the quality bits and or let the guys that don't know that we want them. But for now that is the way it is. Greg Lemon From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Feb 13 15:07:11 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 14:07:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <0C82B2885A6A4C58A5D92FA032D73C3B@tm4> References: <0C82B2885A6A4C58A5D92FA032D73C3B@tm4> Message-ID: Tadeusz: In my opinion, there is a difference between buying a cheap part versus a more expensive quality part and buying an equal quality part at the best price. If the vendor does not tell you where the part comes from and its quality, how do you know what you are buying? Shopping around and going for the most expensive part does not guarantee that you are, in fact, getting the better quality item. I say, go for the more expensive part if you have done your research and are sure of what you are getting. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" To: "'Greg Lemon'" ; Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 1:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts > Greg, > > I am sorry, I still do not get it. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Feb 13 16:14:42 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:14:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4995FEE2.5070603@chello.nl> Go ebay UK, plenty of Lucas switches AND cheap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! By the way as I mentioned before, quality and price are often not related. Kees Oudesluijs Tracy Drummond schreef: > I need a QUALITY headlight switch for a 76 Midget. The one I ordered from > the big name supplier fell apart. I have no idea how this part could ever > work for any one. Way too fragile. > > > > Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! > President AHCUSA www.healey.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 5:20 AM > To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts > > Having been in the British parts business for many years I have to agree > with the "very senior person at Moss". > We used to have an expression... > "There are three things that our customers look for in parts: Price, price > and price". > Top quality and perfection are usually not included in the lowest price > parts and it takes a very experienced restorer to recognize that that is the > case. > > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From racarbon at optonline.net Fri Feb 13 16:37:40 2009 From: racarbon at optonline.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:37:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: <001001c98e34$0ff1fad0$0402a8c0@chlowtaryn> I may be late to this thread but have never associated "CHEAP" with parts from Moss or most other US-based suppliers. Cost is something that is, in my experience, not a dependable Quality British Part Indicator. I reject the idea that Healey owners are either Cheap or looking for commodity pricing and, in my experience, Moss has never been inexpensive or provided consistent quality products in response to orders from my friends or me. If I need a quality part I go to someone like Dave Nock who will quality-check the item before sending them out. Let's face it, Moss, VB, and other suppliers are in business to generate a profit. Remember, the difference between a hobby and work is, if you have to do it..its work. Although I, and many, consider their Healeys a hobby, it has always been obvious to me that our main parts suppliers consider these as profit opportunities. Don't get me wrong, I want Moss and others to make a profit, however, I would have greater appreciation if I could trust the quality of part received. Over the past 45 years (in April) I have owned my Healey, I have looked to purchase good quality parts and paid for them even when they were not supplied. I have gone to primary, secondary, and independent vendors with similar results. When restoring my BJ8 in '90, for quality, I bought all my rubber parts from Moss and, in many (but on all) cases, after a few years the 30-year old replaced parts were in better shape than the newer units. To make things worse, the original parts were exposed to the weather for many years and the new parts were garage-protected. Lets face it, PRICE IS Important. I believe we are paying the price but question the value received. I know of many that have gone to vendors in other countries in hops of getting quality. In no example I know of was price the driving factor but in many instances the price, with shipping, was comparable or better than what was available in the US. Ray Carbone 64 BJ8 (original owner) From jsoderling at astound.net Fri Feb 13 17:02:09 2009 From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:02:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts References: <001001c98e34$0ff1fad0$0402a8c0@chlowtaryn> Message-ID: <76674F57D5C74B5F83D352290C01D381@Soderling> Ray wrote "Let's face it, Moss, VB, and other suppliers are in business to generate a profit." Give me a another reason why you or I would invest our money and time in starting or running a business. To make no money or lose money? Vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Carbone" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 3:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts >I may be late to this thread but have never associated "CHEAP" with parts >from Moss or most other US-based suppliers. Cost is something that is, in >my experience, not a dependable Quality British Part Indicator. I reject >the idea that Healey owners are either Cheap or looking for commodity >pricing and, in my experience, Moss has never been inexpensive or provided >consistent quality products in response to orders from my friends or me. >If I need a quality part I go to someone like Dave Nock who will >quality-check the item before sending them out. > > > > Let's face it, Moss, VB, and other suppliers are in business to generate a > profit. Remember, the difference between a hobby and work is, if you have > to do it..its work. Although I, and many, consider their Healeys a hobby, > it has always been obvious to me that our main parts suppliers consider > these as profit opportunities. Don't get me wrong, I want Moss and others > to make a profit, however, I would have greater appreciation if I could > trust the quality of part received. > > > > Over the past 45 years (in April) I have owned my Healey, I have looked to > purchase good quality parts and paid for them even when they were not > supplied. I have gone to primary, secondary, and independent vendors with > similar results. When restoring my BJ8 in '90, for quality, I bought all > my rubber parts from Moss and, in many (but on all) cases, after a few > years the 30-year old replaced parts were in better shape than the newer > units. To make things worse, the original parts were exposed to the > weather for many years and the new parts were garage-protected. > > > > Lets face it, PRICE IS Important. I believe we are paying the price but > question the value received. I know of many that have gone to vendors in > other countries in hops of getting quality. In no example I know of was > price the driving factor but in many instances the price, with shipping, > was comparable or better than what was available in the US. > > > > > > Ray Carbone 64 BJ8 (original owner) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 13 17:18:22 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:18:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts In-Reply-To: <76674F57D5C74B5F83D352290C01D381@Soderling> References: <001001c98e34$0ff1fad0$0402a8c0@chlowtaryn> <76674F57D5C74B5F83D352290C01D381@Soderling> Message-ID: <00b101c98e39$bf461110$3dd23330$@net> I do not think that Ray meant that in any way other than to state that there are several ways to turn a profit and God bless the fact that there is still a profit motive in this country albeit a waning one. One way to turn a profit is just to charge more than what it cost to buy from the original manufacturer and ship it to the consumer no matter the quality or fit and the other is to take a part from a manufacturer, (or wholesaler) test it, add an override (profit) and resell it to the consumer. The key is testing each item before it leaves the shop to make sure that the end consumer gets a part that works and/or fits. I know that the Nocks do this and so do many other Moss resellers. I mention Nock most often because I have been in their shop but emailing with others I know that they do the same thing. That is why Ray (a friend who lives a couple of miles away from me) and I prefer to buy from the resellers such as Nock or Ed Kaler among others. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Soderling Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:02 PM To: Ray Carbone; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Ray wrote "Let's face it, Moss, VB, and other suppliers are in business to generate a profit." Give me a another reason why you or I would invest our money and time in starting or running a business. To make no money or lose money? Vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Carbone" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 3:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts >I may be late to this thread but have never associated "CHEAP" with parts >from Moss or most other US-based suppliers. Cost is something that is, in >my experience, not a dependable Quality British Part Indicator. I reject >the idea that Healey owners are either Cheap or looking for commodity >pricing and, in my experience, Moss has never been inexpensive or provided >consistent quality products in response to orders from my friends or me. >If I need a quality part I go to someone like Dave Nock who will >quality-check the item before sending them out. From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Fri Feb 13 18:34:22 2009 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 11:34:22 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Mounts Message-ID: <001101c98e44$5d579130$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Hi All Seat mountings for BN1 I understand the early BN1 had fixed mountings for both seats, then a sliding mount for drivers seat and latter sliding on both seats at what stage was the modification carried out my BN1 chassis no is152199 Feb 54 Regards Keith From michaelgladwin at mac.com Fri Feb 13 19:09:40 2009 From: michaelgladwin at mac.com (Michael Gladwin) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 21:09:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear jet fouling steering column Message-ID: <5B6EACA5-D960-4632-AB42-1AD27A8B8AFA@mac.com> Thanks to those who responded to my question. The foul with the steering column was as the result of collapsed engine mounts. Although they seemed fine at first look a closer inspection showed that the rubber reaction stops were hard down on the engine mount so that the little reaction stops were acting as the main engine mount. There should be a clearance at that point. Replacing the rubbers lifted the engine and I even have to shim the reaction mount back down to achieve the proper clearance. I picked up new (quality) parts from Healey Surgeons, spent the afternoon in grease monkey heaven and "Bobs yer uncle". Incidentally, the LH and RH engine mount plates were reversed, even though they are clearly marked. I wonder how many others are like that out there in Healey-land. Thanks again for the rapid feedback, Mike BT7 M3 BMD From fortee9er at yahoo.com Fri Feb 13 20:19:56 2009 From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:19:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] What is the Control Box in a BJ8 Message-ID: <280884.85889.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am looking at the wiring diagram for my BJ8 the starter wiring in particular and I see that there is a connection to the "Control Box". Could someone explain to me what function the control box performs and where is it located in the car. Thanks Jorge Garcia From Awgertoo at aol.com Fri Feb 13 20:22:44 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 22:22:44 EST Subject: [Healeys] What is the Control Box in a BJ8 Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 10:20:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fortee9er at yahoo.com writes: the control box performs and where is it located in the car The control box is the voltage regulator and is mounted on the engine side of the firewall on the right. Best--Michael Oritt **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Feb 13 21:31:29 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 23:31:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Mounts References: <001101c98e44$5d579130$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Message-ID: <0511E9F87FF849C5A1BD616A850AD76C@ophrdc.org> Hi Keith, The sliding driver's seat began in Dec. '53 at car 149950 along with the introduction of non adjustable steering column. Your 152199 would have this arrangement, with the passenger's seat still on 5/8" wood packer strips on top of the 1/4" strips to equalize the seat heights. Your passenger's seat would have two sets of bolt hole adjustments in the metal seat pan. Rich Chrysler AHCA Hundred Registrar ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Bailey" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 8:34 PM Subject: [Healeys] Seat Mounts > Hi All > Seat mountings for BN1 > I understand the early BN1 had fixed mountings for both seats, then a > sliding > mount for drivers seat and latter sliding on both seats at what stage was > the > modification carried out my BN1 chassis no is152199 Feb 54 > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 21:43:45 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 12:43:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Mounts In-Reply-To: <001101c98e44$5d579130$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> References: <001101c98e44$5d579130$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Message-ID: Keith - According to Gary Anderson & Roger Moment's book, cars starting with C149930 had rails on the driver's side. Rails were only put on the passenger's side as an option. Note - I am 6'1" tall and the rail in my BN1 sits me a little too high. In addition, the driver's seat back now interferes with the soft top when it is down. I put the rail in my early BN1 when I didn't know any better, although originally it didn't have them. I will be taking the rail out soon. Alan On 2/14/09, Keith Bailey wrote: > Hi All > Seat mountings for BN1 > I understand the early BN1 had fixed mountings for both seats, then a > sliding > mount for drivers seat and latter sliding on both seats at what stage was > the > modification carried out my BN1 chassis no is152199 Feb 54 > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From ynotink at msn.com Sat Feb 14 09:18:17 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:18:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What is the Control Box in a BJ8 In-Reply-To: <280884.85889.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <280884.85889.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: "Control Box" AKA Voltage regulator.Bill Lawrence> Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:19:56 -0800> From: fortee9er at yahoo.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] What is the Control Box in a BJ8> > I am looking at the wiring diagram for my BJ8 the starter wiring in particular and I see that there is a connection to the "Control Box".> Could someone explain to me what function the control box performs and where is it located in the car.> Thanks> Jorge Garcia> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From rdavies1 at cox.net Sat Feb 14 13:51:28 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 12:51:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg ground Message-ID: Could someone please point me in the right direction (link) to directions on converting from pos to neg ground on my 67 BJ8 with Pertronix ignition already installed? TIA Ron Davies Laguna Hills From Awgertoo at aol.com Sat Feb 14 14:29:06 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:29:06 EST Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg ground Message-ID: In a message dated 2/14/2009 3:51:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, rdavies1 at cox.net writes: converting from pos to neg ground on my 67 BJ8 with Pertronix ignition already installed? Ron-- Pertronix modules are polarity-sensitive and if you change the car's polarity you will need to get a negative ground module. Best--Michael Oritt **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From healey at salisbury.net Sat Feb 14 14:58:40 2009 From: healey at salisbury.net (Carl Brown) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:58:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg ground References: Message-ID: <003601c98eef$65527340$6800a8c0@carlhome> go to http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ then select tech tips, then electrical then negative ground. Carl Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davies" To: Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 3:51 PM Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg ground > Could someone please point me in the right direction (link) to directions > on > converting from pos to neg ground on my 67 BJ8 with Pertronix ignition > already installed? > TIA > Ron Davies > Laguna Hills > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey at salisbury.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Sat Feb 14 15:22:26 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:22:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg ground In-Reply-To: <003601c98eef$65527340$6800a8c0@carlhome> Message-ID: <> Don't even have to do that, Carl!! Yo Ron, ever look at the 'trailers' on EVERY List Post?? LOL http://www.team.net/archive K.I.S.S Rule at it's finest !!!! From rdavies1 at cox.net Sat Feb 14 15:29:13 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:29:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] pertronix Message-ID: Does anyone know if the pertronix electronic ignition for a BJ8 in Positive ground can be changed to a negative system or does it need to be tossed and replaced? TIA Ron Davies From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Feb 14 15:59:39 2009 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:59:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari-Shell Commercial Message-ID: <608563.67983.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The following note and link has been lifted from the Cdn Motorsport Historical Group list. Enjoy!! http://www.youtube. com/watch? v=m0jrPrjW3Oc --Scott J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ***************************************************************************** *********************** Here's a link to a Shell commercial shown in Europe . Ostensibly they're selling gasoline, but the Ferrari's used in the video steal the show. Ferrari pulled several of their race-cars from various ages out of storage, flew them around the world, and filmed them running through the streets of Rome , Rio , New York , Hong Kong and Monaco . No CGI - these are the original cars on the original streets. The best part is the sound - from the basso-profundo notes of the early, front-engine era, each scene cuts to a later and later generation, ending with the banshee-wail of a modern F1 car. The sounds alone bring a tear to the eye. Even if you're not a gearhead, this video will stir the soul. There's just something about 3 litres and 14,000 RPM that's music to my ears!!! __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 14 16:31:58 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 15:31:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] pertronix In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4997546E.8010902@comcast.net> Ron, Since the Pertronix unit is solid-state it likely has diodes, capacitors and transistors that cannot be reverse-biased (the main part of the circuit is probably a power transistor that is switched by Hall Effect from the magnets in the rotor--like solid-state SU fuel pumps). If Pertronix could make a dual-polarity (bipolar ;) unit--like some SU fuel pumps that use non-electrolytic capacitors (points don't care about polarity)--they probably would because they could design, build, stock and support fewer products for the same number of sales. I believe we've heard from at least one Lister who installed a Pertronix 'backwards' and the unit was fried instantly. Don't 'toss' your pos. ground unit--I'd be glad to take it off your hands. Bob Ron Davies wrote: > Does anyone know if the pertronix electronic ignition for a BJ8 in Positive > ground can be changed to a negative system or does it need to be tossed and > replaced? > TIA > > Ron Davies > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Feb 14 16:54:23 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 18:54:23 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay Message-ID: First off, I know I didn't use a tiny URL, but I was just wondering if this was for real. Seems like a pretty low "buy it now" price for such a car. Any comments? Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1954-Austin-Healey-100M_W0QQitem Z280312252377QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Tru cks?hash=item280312252377&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C24 0%3A1308_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1954-Austin-Healey-100M_W0QQitemZ280312252377QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU S_Cars_Trucks?hash=item280312252377&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:7|39:1| 240:1308) **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Feb 14 17:06:21 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:06:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari-Shell Commercial In-Reply-To: <608563.67983.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <875482.55939.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Great vid, Scott. Thanks for posting! Happy Healeying Rick --- On Sat, 2/14/09, J. Scott Morris wrote: From: J. Scott Morris Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari-Shell Commercial To: "Austin Healey" Date: Saturday, February 14, 2009, 5:59 PM The following note and link has been lifted from the Cdn Motorsport Historical Group list. Enjoy!! http://www.youtube. com/watch? v=m0jrPrjW3Oc --Scott J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ***************************************************************************** *********************** Here's a link to a Shell commercial shown in Europe . Ostensibly they're selling gasoline, but the Ferrari's used in the video steal the show. Ferrari pulled several of their race-cars from various ages out of storage, flew them around the world, and filmed them running through the streets of Rome , Rio , New York , Hong Kong and Monaco . No CGI - these are the original cars on the original streets. The best part is the sound - from the basso-profundo notes of the early, front-engine era, each scene cuts to a later and later generation, ending with the banshee-wail of a modern F1 car. The sounds alone bring a tear to the eye. Even if you're not a gearhead, this video will stir the soul. There's just something about 3 litres and 14,000 RPM that's music to my ears!!! __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Feb 14 17:27:57 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:27:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <637533.25147.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I know the car is real. I was lucky enough to crew for Bob Wilson on this car at Lime Rock during the Team Healey Challenge in 1990. It was a weekend I'll never forget with some great friends and great Healeys. Happy Healeying, Rick --- On Sat, 2/14/09, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, February 14, 2009, 6:54 PM First off, I know I didn't use a tiny URL, but I was just wondering if this was for real. Seems like a pretty low "buy it now" price for such a car. Any comments? Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1954-Austin-Healey-100M_W0QQite m Z280312252377QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Tr u cks?hash=item280312252377&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C2 4 0%3A1308_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1954-Austin-Healey-100M_W0QQite mZ280312252377QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU S_Cars_Trucks?hash=item280312252377&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:7|39:1 | 240:1308) **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Feb 14 17:31:54 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 19:31:54 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay Message-ID: Then it seems like a real steal at that price. Especially with its history. Steven In a message dated 2/14/2009 4:28:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, healeyrick at yahoo.com writes: I know the car is real. I was lucky enough to crew for Bob Wilson on this car at Lime Rock during the Team Healey Challenge in 1990. It was a weekend I'll never forget with some great friends and great Healeys. Happy Healeying, Rick **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From rdavies1 at cox.net Sat Feb 14 17:37:48 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:37:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] pertronix In-Reply-To: <4997546E.8010902@comcast.net> References: <4997546E.8010902@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks Bob: It sounds logical but I thought I should at least ask. Are you still Pos ground also? Is that why you could use it? Be happy to send it to you after the conversion which may take awhile, if you pay postage and what, if anything, you think it's worth to you :-) So contact me off list directly. Ron ------------------------------------ Don't 'toss' your pos. ground unit--I'd be glad to take it off your hands. Bob From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Feb 14 17:39:07 2009 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:39:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Ferrari-Shell Commercial Message-ID: <566788.30033.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Sorry about the broken link. Here it is again along with a tiny url. Enjoy!! http://tinyurl.com/ccp3ss http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0jrPrjW3Oc --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Sat, 2/14/09, J. Scott Morris wrote: From: J. Scott Morris Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari-Shell Commercial To: "Austin Healey" Received: Saturday, February 14, 2009, 5:59 PM The following note and link has been lifted from the Cdn Motorsport Historical Group list. Enjoy!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0jrPrjW3Oc --Scott J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ***************************************************************************** Here's a link to a Shell commercial shown in Europe . Ostensibly they're selling gasoline, but the Ferrari's used in the video steal the show. Ferrari pulled several of their race-cars from various ages out of storage, flew them around the world, and filmed them running through the streets of Rome , Rio , New York , Hong Kong and Monaco . No CGI - these are the original cars on the original streets. The best part is the sound - from the basso-profundo notes of the early, front-engine era, each scene cuts to a later and later generation, ending with the banshee-wail of a modern F1 car. The sounds alone bring a tear to the eye. Even if you're not a gearhead, this video will stir the soul. There's just something about 3 litres and 14,000 RPM that's music to my ears!!! __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Feb 14 17:54:11 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 08:54:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Ferrari-Shell Commercial In-Reply-To: <566788.30033.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <566788.30033.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hmmm... I drive my '52 Austin Atlantic every day through the streets of Hong Kong, and my mental vision of it is exactly the same as the Shell commercial. I even make the cool engine noises with my mouth.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sun, Feb 15, 2009 at 8:39 AM, J. Scott Morris wrote: > Sorry about the broken link. Here it is again along with a tiny url. > Enjoy!! > > http://tinyurl.com/ccp3ss > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0jrPrjW3Oc > > --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada > J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives > > --- On Sat, 2/14/09, J. Scott Morris wrote: From gardner5 at comcast.net Sat Feb 14 18:58:05 2009 From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 01:58:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1097736574.450191234663085419.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Seems fairly priced considering that this is a race car and should likely be enjoyed as such.B You would be upside-down if you tried to restore this to original, since it is a BN1 and not a factory "M".B It's important to separate race cars from street cars when valuing (just look at the Porsche Speedster as an example and you'll find race cars valued at less than half of a condition 1 street car; unless the car has a well documented history with provenance).B It is important to separate " bitsa " race carsB from cars with true provenance. Joel Following the market ----- Original Message ----- From: ATIGHTPROD @ aol .com To: healeyrick @yahoo.com Cc: healeys @ autox .team.net Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 4:31:54 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [ Healeys ] 100M on Ebay Then it seems like a real steal at that price. Especially with its B history. Steven B B In a message dated 2/14/2009 4:28:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, B healeyrick @yahoo.com writes: I know the car is real. B I was lucky enough to crew B for Bob Wilson on this car at Lime Rock during the Team Healey Challenge B in 1990. B It was a weekend I'll never forget with some great B friends and great Healeys . B Happy B Healeying , Rick B **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. ( http :// yellowpages . aol .com/search?query=florist& ncid =emlcntusyelp00000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http :// www .team.net/donate. html Healeys @ autox .team.net http :// autox .team.net/mailman/ listinfo / healeys You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net http :// www .team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Feb 14 19:13:00 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 21:13:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay References: <1097736574.450191234663085419.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I'd still like to get the numbers from it for the Hundred Registry and follow where it goes. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 8:58 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay > Seems fairly priced considering that this is a race car and should likely > be > enjoyed as such.B You would be upside-down if you tried to restore this > to > original, since it is a BN1 and not a factory "M".B It's important to > separate race cars from street cars when valuing (just look at the Porsche > Speedster as an example and you'll find race cars valued at less than half > of > a condition 1 street car; unless the car has a well documented history > with > provenance).B It is important to separate " bitsa " race carsB from cars > with > true provenance. > > > > Joel > > > > > > Following the market ----- Original Message ----- > From: ATIGHTPROD @ aol .com > To: healeyrick @yahoo.com > Cc: healeys @ autox .team.net > Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 4:31:54 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [ Healeys ] 100M on Ebay > > Then it seems like a real steal at that price. Especially with its B > history. > Steven > B > B > In a message dated 2/14/2009 4:28:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, B > healeyrick @yahoo.com writes: > > I know the car is real. B I was lucky enough to crew B for Bob Wilson on > this > car at Lime Rock during the Team Healey Challenge B in 1990. B It was a > weekend > I'll never forget with some great B friends and great Healeys . B > > Happy B Healeying , > Rick > > > B > > > > > **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near > you > now. ( http :// yellowpages . aol .com/search?query=florist& ncid > =emlcntusyelp00000002) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http :// www .team.net/donate. html > > Healeys @ autox .team.net > http :// autox .team.net/mailman/ listinfo / healeys > > You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net > > http :// www .team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Feb 14 19:13:56 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 21:13:56 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay Message-ID: Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense now. Steven In a message dated 2/14/2009 6:00:34 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, gardner5 at comcast.net writes: Seems fairly priced considering that this is a race car and should likely be enjoyed as such.B You would be upside-down if you tried to restore this to original, since it is a BN1 and not a factory "M".B It's important to separate race cars from street cars when valuing (just look at the Porsche Speedster as an example and you'll find race cars valued at less than half of a condition 1 street car; unless the car has a well documented history with provenance).B It is important to separate " bitsa " race carsB from cars with true provenance. Joel Following the market ----- Original Message ----- From: ATIGHTPROD @ aol .com To: healeyrick @yahoo.com Cc: healeys @ autox .team.net Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 4:31:54 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [ Healeys ] 100M on Ebay Then it seems like a real steal at that price. Especially with its B history. Steven B B In a message dated 2/14/2009 4:28:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, B healeyrick @yahoo.com writes: I know the car is real. B I was lucky enough to crew B for Bob Wilson on this car at Lime Rock during the Team Healey Challenge B in 1990. B It was a weekend I'll never forget with some great B friends and great Healeys . B Happy B Healeying , Rick B **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. ( http :// yellowpages . aol .com/search?query=florist& ncid =emlcntusyelp00000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http :// www .team.net/donate. html Healeys @ autox .team.net http :// autox .team.net/mailman/ listinfo / healeys You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net http :// www .team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as atightprod at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From jwbn6 at verizon.net Sun Feb 15 07:49:30 2009 From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 08:49:30 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] side screen part needed for 100-6/3000 version Message-ID: <1301258851.201069.1234709370695.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> if anyone has some assorted parts laying around, i need a left hand (driver's side) front bracket. the threaded one which passes through the hole in the door. if you can help, respond off list or call 24/7 214 202-5179 JERRY WALL BN6 ROWLETT, TX From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Feb 15 08:44:05 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 10:44:05 EST Subject: [Healeys] cars for sale Message-ID: As one of the keepers of the Healey flame here in Kentucky people just send me info about cars for sale. I'm happy to pass them along to help find a good home. (I will be keeping the cheap 100-M's to myself) Here are three, no financial interest, no knowledge about the cars. Please contact the owners direct for more information. Jim Werner Louisville, KY BJ7 Healey, I'll sell if for $7000, they seem to be going for $8000 to $9500 in this condition. Besides the rear fender that needs to be replace it has the usual rust along the bottom of the front fenders and below the doors. The drivers side floor by the pedals has a hole but passenger side and trunk seem solid. Carbs were stolen while in storage. Joe Fisher _joefisher at fuse.net_ (mailto:joefisher at fuse.net) Cincinnati, Ohio area For Sale-1958 Austin-Healey BN4. Car has typical Healey rust in trunk pan. doglegs and rockers. Complete car. $5000.00.Call 812 473-0882 or email at pat0691 at aol.com. For Sale- Rear shroud, bonnet and both doors for a 1966 Big Healey. All in very good shape. Other miscellaneous parts including original grill available as well. Call 812 473-0882 or email at _pat0691 at aol.com_ (mailto:pat0691 at aol.com) . I'm in Evansville. . Thanks again-Pat Graninger 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BN7 for sale. This car is totally disassembled and has been off the road and stored inside since 1975. the chassis requires the normal sills, trunk floor and a bit of floor repair near the drivers pedals. Other than that it is a very straight and solid substucture. Owner reports all parts are included and I believe the engine has been rebuilt. Fenders appeared straight and needed usual doglegs and lower repair panels. Contact Jay at _handyman at 2hoskins.com_ (mailto:handyman at 2hoskins.com) Lexington Ky **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From healeydoc at verizon.net Sun Feb 15 11:13:28 2009 From: healeydoc at verizon.net (healeydoc at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 10:13:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] side screen part needed for 100-6/3000 version In-Reply-To: <1301258851.201069.1234709370695.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> References: <1301258851.201069.1234709370695.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Jerry, we have some used ones if you want to contact me on Tuesday David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialis.com On Feb 15, 2009, at 6:49 AM, jerry wall wrote: > if anyone has some assorted parts laying around, i need a > left hand > (driver's side) front bracket. the threaded one which passes > through > the hole in the door. if you can help, respond off list or > call 24/7 > 214 202-5179 > JERRY WALL BN6 > ROWLETT, TX > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Sun Feb 15 11:42:01 2009 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 19:42:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? In-Reply-To: <403EDA3BA1AE4F53ACCAFD8C89B2B4C0@tm4> Message-ID: Tadek, tell me what size bearings you're looking for. I might be able to get Vandervell. Best regards Eric -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:20 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Many thanks for the input!.. So, I understand this is how the market looks like: - Vandervell, in general not available, NOS only - Glacier - from DW - King (County tri layer) - BCS and maybe others - County single layer - everyone :-) Tadek From Editorgary at aol.com Sun Feb 15 16:04:28 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 18:04:28 EST Subject: [Healeys] Redundant Dept of Redundancies Message-ID: Why are you repeating yourself? In a message dated 2/15/09 11:29:45 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > It is important to separate " bitsa " race cars ... > Show me a race car that has the original bits, and I'll show you a car with absolutely no racing experience. Cheers gary Gary Anderson Editor, The Star Magazine Mercedes-Benz Club of America Editorial Offices: 361 North San Antonio Road Los Altos, CA 94022 ofc: 650-949-9680 cell: 650-255-6006 fax: 650-949-1632 ************** Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Sun Feb 15 16:26:18 2009 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:26:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Mounts Message-ID: <001301c98fc4$ce0b9f80$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Hi Guys Thank you both for the information Keith From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Sun Feb 15 16:34:37 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 15:34:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s Message-ID: Did someone post some pictures of Healeys racing in the 60s the other week? I think I deleted the email and would like to look at them again. Anyone save this email? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Feb 15 17:01:40 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:01:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <481230.69416.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, Don't know if this site is the one, but it's pretty cool: healeyracing.com Regards, Rick --- On Sun, 2/15/09, rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote: From: rrengineer @dslextreme.com Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s To: "healeys" Date: Sunday, February 15, 2009, 6:34 PM Did someone post some pictures of Healeys racing in the 60s the other week? I think I deleted the email and would like to look at them again. Anyone save this email? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Sun Feb 15 17:03:20 2009 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 19:03:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Texas Cooler Message-ID: Don't waste your time. I have tried six blade fans, Texas coolers, electric auxillary fans, oil coolers etc. Nothing cooled my baby down until I had my radiator modified. A local shop (Cap a Radiator) in Farmingdale NY added two extra rows to the core. The radiator had to be installed with a shoe horn, but I don't run hot any longer. That includes driving in 90+ degrees at 70-80 MPH. _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sun Feb 15 17:10:03 2009 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:10:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Texas Cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5caeedb50902151610se7350b0oa1d58faaec37b7e@mail.gmail.com> re coring the radiator and adding a couple of rows is a great start. the rebuilding the water pump and and add the best fan of your choice, but only if you want to drive in bumper to bumper traffic over 100 degrees or 80 MPH over the grapevine in the summer (113 degrees on Bakersfield) it works ron rader Los Angles. 1965 BJ8 (for sale) 1954 Nash Healey On Sun, Feb 15, 2009 at 4:03 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > > A local shop (Cap a Radiator) in Farmingdale NY added two > extra rows to the core. From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Feb 15 17:59:21 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 19:59:21 EST Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s Message-ID: >From _http://healeyracing.com_ (http://healeyracing.com/) "Alan Barker driving the last big Healey to win the SCCA national Championship in 1965" The Barker Brothers have one of the greatest Healey story's that has never really been recorded nor talked about in years. They are two brothers from Louisville who bought a wrecked 100-6 as teenagers and rebuilt it as a race car in their mothers one car frame garage. Donald was the car builder and Alan the driver. No money, just talent and ambition. They went on to win almost every SCCA race they entered in the early 60's. Donald has letters from Geoff Healey where Geoff asks them how they made the car so fast. Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 15 18:20:02 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 19:20:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> And as Paul Harvey might say Jim, "And Now what is The Rest of The Story??" From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Feb 15 18:31:42 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:31:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think you mean this link: http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overview=0 Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 7:34 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > Did someone post some pictures of Healeys racing in the 60s the other week? > I think I deleted the email and would like to look at them again. Anyone > save this email? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sun Feb 15 19:10:47 2009 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 18:10:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Avon tires deal Message-ID: <5caeedb50902151810if7af153o57a5b1824f4808c1@mail.gmail.com> Listers: my friend is running his 100s in the upcoming Mille Miglia. see below for a deal on some Avon tires. No personal interest. contact Stan direct. ron rader ________________________________ From: Stanley Bauer [mailto:stanleybauer at roadrunner.com] I have been advised by FIVA that I have to change my tires on my Healey for the Mille Miglia as 70 Ratios were not available at that time. I have 5 Avon; 185x70 RS 89R, that have done approximately 1,200 miles, that I wish to sell. I paid about $350each; I will take $200 each OBO. I also have 1new Avon 175x 70RS 15. Please contact me if you are interested. Stan From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun Feb 15 21:53:13 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 04:53:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100M on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: <1097736574.450191234663085419.JavaMail.root@sz0158a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > I am very familiar with this car from the 1990 Team Healey Challenge Series. To call this a "racecar" is a bit of a stretch. Although it was entered in a number of events, maybe even all of the them, it was always dead ass last. I do know that Bob "Kermit" Wilson and I were the only two that raced in the MeadowBrook Historics (Waterford Hills, Michigin) in August, 1990. This was one of the original events on the itinerary that somehow got dropped in the weeks leading up to it. In my case, coming from Oregon, I never got the memo. Apparently, Bob didn't either. The main reason I remember him being there is because he broke his transmission and I saw him, with help from some others, rebuidling that transmission on the taligate of a pickup truck in the paddock. Richard Mayor _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Faster_022009 From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sun Feb 15 23:22:10 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:22:10 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Bearings Message-ID: <20090216172210.8150236tou4aduky@webmail.hotkey.net.au> I am by no means an expert but multi layer shell bearings were developed to (a) provide a shell backing to allow ease of having spares on hand, consistent sizing and ease of replacement. No machining of the bearing assembly. (b) the backing layer is harder and has a higher load carring capacity, therefore made of different materials. (c) the facing material is relatively softer so that small imputities that come with the lubrication oil can be embedded in the bearing material rather than scour the crankshaft journal. Generally it is better to replace worn bearings rather than grind cranks. Inspection of well lubricated but worn bearings will often show the different colours of the soft layer at the joint line and the load carrying backing as a different colour underneath. From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Feb 16 02:05:43 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 03:05:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <30F31D2D48994D53875A327D2BC60579@GregPC> Jim, your reference the the Barker brothers got me curious, but all I got from googling was a reference in a regional SCCA newsletter talking about the vintage races at Road America, apparently (in 2004 at least) the Barker's 100/6 survives as a vintage racer http://www.scca-milwaukee.org/Newsletter/PDF/aug04_drift.pdf See page 7 for more. Greg Lemon From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Mon Feb 16 07:34:43 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:34:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Late Friday Funny... In-Reply-To: <20090216172210.8150236tou4aduky@webmail.hotkey.net.au> References: <20090216172210.8150236tou4aduky@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Message-ID: <5B8502403B3741EFBA0E873A3ECEF53E@michael> ---Husband Store. A store that sells new husbands has opened in New York City where a woman may go to choose a husband. Among the instructions at the entrance is a description of how the store operates: You may visit this store ONLY ONCE! There are six floors and the value of the products increase as the shopper ascends the flights. The shopper may choose any item from a particular floor, or may choose to go up to the next floor, but you cannot go back down except to exit the building! So, a woman goes to the Husband Store to find a husband. On the first floor the sign on the door reads: Floor 1 - These men Have Jobs. She is intrigued, but continues to the second floor, where the sign shows: Floor 2 - These men Have Jobs and Love Kids. 'That's nice,' she thinks, 'but I want more.'So she continues upward. The third floor sign reads: Floor 3 - These men Have Jobs, Love Kids, and are Extremely Good Looking. 'Wow,' she thinks, but feels compelled to keep going. She goes to the fourth floor, and the sign reads: Floor 4 - These men Have Jobs, Love Kids, are Drop-dead Good Looking and Help With Housework. 'Oh, mercy me!' she exclaims, 'I can hardly stand it!' Still, she goes to the fifth floor and the sign reads: Floor 5 - These men Have Jobs, Love Kids, are Drop-dead Gorgeous, Help with Housework, and Have a Strong Romantic Streak. She is so tempted to stay, but she goes to the sixth floor, where the Sign reads: Floor 6 - You are visitor 31,456,012 to this floor. There are no men on this floor. This floor exists solely as proof that women are impossible to please. Thank you for shopping at the Husband Store. PLEASE NOTE: To avoid gender bias charges, the store's owner opened a New Wives store just across the street. The first floor has wives that love sex. The second floor has wives that love sex and have money and like beer. The third, fourth, fifth and sixth floors have never been visited. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From WLLDBL at aol.com Mon Feb 16 07:43:01 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:43:01 EST Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: Hello all, I had my parts-buying epiphany a number of years ago when I bought the cheapest replacement alternator I could find ("Rebuilt in Thailand"), because I just HAD to save that last $1.73. That horrible piece of junk broke within six weeks, causing me to, of course, go out and spend more money buying a quality replacement ('cause I certainly wasn't going to exchange it for another one of the same!). What that experience finally made me realize about "cheap" parts was, that cheap parts are not really cheap. That buying them virtually guarantees at least one of the following will happen: 1. it won't fit properly, 2. it won't function properly, 3. it will break prematurely. Nowadays, whilst shopping for parts, I invariably ask the salesperson for the highest quality part available. The problem that then arises, though, is that the salesperson EITHER doesn't really know anything about the quality level of the part in question, OR, just wants to sell me the part that he happens to stock, regardless. What's a body to do???? Doug Lyon Claremont, CA '59 BN7 ----- Original Message ----- Gary, I quite agree with what the Moss fellow said about most Healey owners being "cheap". I know it's a terribly generalized statement, which in itself can be dangerous especially on a list like this where all "levels" of enthusiast resides. However, I've seen and experienced all too often where I'll try to find and lead the person to the "right" part, not because they asked, but because I happen to know they'll be needing it (stupid me), only to have them turn up their nose at it figuring they'll somehow find it cheaper somewhere else, even if it's made of unobtanium! Or the owner will be told where to find the best or the correct part, but they'll ignore the advise only to try to find it cheaper from a source whose part I know and tell them is inferior. They'll save a dime at the outset, only to struggle with the inferior part and regret it later. A learning curve in what is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby? I suppose so, but if the vendor can sell the junk all day long to the ignorant, how can we expect the vendor or the manufacturer to invest money to tool up something that's proper and correct? Rich Chrysler **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 07:46:42 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 22:46:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo Choke Carby Thingy Q Message-ID: Hi All - Apologies - I know this is the Austin Healey list (not the Jaguar list) but generally speaking I find collectively you all are far more mechanically minded than your typical Jag person, so I am asking the question here. I believe I am having a problem with the Thermo choke unit on my Jaguar Mk IX. The set up is identical to the early Mk1s with the thermo choke (i.e. dual HD6s - TC on the front carb). My Mk IX is running decent at speed, but at idle she runs very rough and keeps wanting to die. She is using LOTS of go-juice. I figured it just needed a tune, and went to tune the Carbies but when I got into it, I realized that fuel was dripping from the Venturi chamber of the front carb which is where the Thermo Choke is attached (even when the car is warm & the TC is off). I realized it was leaking so much fuel that the fuel was puddling on the bottom of the Venturi chamber, probably blocking off the little hole for the slow idle causing the very rough idle.... My question is... is it the TC causing this, or maybe do I have a cracked diaphragm on the carby? Is there something specific that commonly causes this problem? I just want to be prepared before I start ripping the whole thing apart to fix it. I already have my SU Burlen rebuild kits for the HD6s... is this enough? Thanks for your sage advice... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From tomleavy at comcast.net Mon Feb 16 07:56:55 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 14:56:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] British Wire Wheel package deal Message-ID: <1764723081.589171234796215205.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi List- Thought I'd share that i just bought a set of 4 Vredestein Sprint+ mounted and balanced on painted 60 spoke Dayton's from British Wire Wheel. Delivered, they only set me back $1100. Mark, at BWW, did me right, and he is willing to extend the offer to anyone else interested. No financial interest other than helping the next guy save a buck. Thomas Leavy 451 Branchport Ave Oceanport, NJ 07757 908-433-9322 From WLLDBL at aol.com Mon Feb 16 08:02:47 2009 From: WLLDBL at aol.com (WLLDBL at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:02:47 EST Subject: [Healeys] Getting decent quality parts Message-ID: Amen!!! Doug Lyon Claremont, CA '59 BN7 -----Original Message----- Greg, I am sorry, I still do not get it. I have to say I do not go for the part that costs less, but is of superior quality. Engine bearings cost below $50-200/set, rebuild goes into thousands. So, why choose cheaper and rebuild sooner?? I know I can get the cheapest bumpers, but why would I, if they need to be replated/replaced after a short time. This will cost me more in the end. It's a fairly simple economical equation for me.. There has been so many discussions on quality of the parts offered - trunk handles not fitting, gaskets not cut right, body panels being wrong shape, bumpers in wrong shape, etc, etc. For God's sake, it takes just a little more effort/cost to do the part right, an it takes soooo much effort/time/money to fix it.. Best, Tadek **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 16 08:44:21 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 16:44:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] British Wire Wheel package deal In-Reply-To: <1764723081.589171234796215205.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1764723081.589171234796215205.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <499989D5.1010508@chello.nl> Thomas, Look out for any imperfections on the side walls of the Vredestein tires. Sometimes these tires can be the cause of vibrations even if they are balanced properly. The suspicion is that there may sometimes be some imperfections in the cord layers which may cause these vibrations and that some cars are more sensitive to it than others. Look for small recessed and/or raised areas in the side walls, if you have properly balanced wheels and still have vibrations. This also applies to TR's. Kees Oudesluijs NL tomleavy at comcast.net schreef: > Hi List- > > Thought I'd share that i just bought a set of 4 Vredestein Sprint+ mounted and balanced on painted 60 spoke Dayton's from British Wire Wheel. Delivered, they only set me back $1100. Mark, at BWW, did me right, and he is willing to extend the offer to anyone else interested. > > No financial interest other than helping the next guy save a buck. > > > Thomas Leavy > 451 Branchport Ave > Oceanport, NJ 07757 > 908-433-9322 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com Mon Feb 16 10:32:21 2009 From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:32:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non-healey related Message-ID: I'm getting ready to buy parts for my MGB, I need a new clutch so I have to pull the motor and tranny, While I'm doing it , my plan is to replace gaskets seals, mounts etc... on the engine and transmission with overdrive. My question is (if any one is familiar with MGB's) can I replace the oil seals (front and back) on the engine and transmission(overdrive) Without dismantling the whole thing?? Can I just pull the seals off and replace them?? My hope is to stop oil leaks , HA HA HA ...... I know!! From shop at justbrits.com Mon Feb 16 12:58:13 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:58:13 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good taste Message-ID: Thought you gents might like to see this!! ************************************** -----Original Message----- From: Larry Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:59 AM To: Spridgets List; bugeye at yahoogroups.com Subject: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good taste . http://tinyurl.com/anhhw9 From a BE to a square body PU? I won't even ask why. From a BE to a square body PU? I won't even ask why. From a BE to a square body PU? I won't even ask why. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 16 13:13:11 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:13:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good taste In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4999C8D7.9060507@chello.nl> Very nice and well executed, but only one SU? At least it will attract interest. Kees Oudesluijs Ed's Shop schreef: > Thought you gents might like to see this!! > ************************************** > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:59 AM > To: Spridgets List; bugeye at yahoogroups.com > Subject: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good > taste > > . > > http://tinyurl.com/anhhw9 > > From a BE to a square body PU? > > I won't even ask why. > > From a BE to a square body PU? > > I won't even ask why. > > From a BE to a square body PU? > > I won't even ask why. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From jnhorn at aol.com Mon Feb 16 13:26:25 2009 From: jnhorn at aol.com (jnhorn at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 15:26:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Parts from England... Message-ID: <8CB5E8BF9BBE937-758-104C@webmail-db12.sysops.aol.com> however, While we're on the subject of quality parts, I have a complaint about parts from England. I have three big Healeys and 2 are racecars, so I like Denis Welch parts and have bought from Cape International also. My problem, is that it is not feasible to return wrong or defective parts considering shipping costs and the delay. Many of Denis Welch parts requirie some "adjustments" but are generally very impressive. Cape International has twice sent me wrong parts. Once, a set of cobra-laced wire wheels arrived from Cape International too wide for any big Healey (except with modified fenders). They were too expensive to return although I complained that they really weren't Healey wheels. Last week I received the wrong fuel filler cap (aluminum and not chrome), and they will not pay return postage. At least Moss is easy to deal with under such circumstances. jon einhorn From shop at justbrits.com Mon Feb 16 13:53:19 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 14:53:19 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good taste In-Reply-To: <4999C8D7.9060507@chello.nl> Message-ID: <> Most likely HIF44 or HS-6 are the 'common' trick, Kees. Ed From rdavies1 at cox.net Mon Feb 16 14:32:37 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:32:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] pos to neg Message-ID: <914A8221FBF14256A5ACD5D9E33634C3@OfficeDell> Thanks to all that responded to my request for info on pos to neg conversions. What a great asset this listserve is. However, my brake servo just went out Saturday morning and since the part is $600 alone, well, you get the picture..... conversion for another time. :-) Ron Davies Laguna Hills From linsley46 at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 15:03:21 2009 From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:03:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Mk II wiring harness Message-ID: I am looking for a "concours" level wiring harness for my BN7 Mk II with the fuel pump behind the drivers seat. I have spoken to both British Wiring and Rhode Island Wiring both described wiring harnesses for the BT7 and BJ7 but not for the BN7 Mk II. The primary problem seems to be the chassis harness. British Wiring described the harness with the blue tracer as having a tail light harness as a part of the chassis harness with the cut off switch wire at the end in the trunk. The Rhode Island Wiring person look up his base wiring for this harness and it was based on a BJ7. If any one out there has ordered a wiring harnesses for a BN7 MK II from either of these companies or another company or another location that has the correct configuration I would appreciate hearing about it - especially if you have any part number or order number that I can reference please let me know. I would like to get the correct harness and need advice since I must not be explaining it correctly to the vendors. Thanks, John From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Feb 16 15:45:36 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 14:45:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Racing in the 60s In-Reply-To: <30F31D2D48994D53875A327D2BC60579@GregPC> References: <30F31D2D48994D53875A327D2BC60579@GregPC> Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502A36@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> I don't really have too many race results for Barker in my database. I do have a poor copy of a VHS tape where Mr. Barker discussed some of his exploits at a club dinner meeting. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 TRACK CITY STATE DATE DRIVER MODEL SN ADDRESS EVENT CARNO COLOR START FINISH COMMENTS Daytona Beach Daytona Beach Fl. 11/28/1965 Barker, Allan 100-6 Race 6 E Prod 31 4th 1st SCCA championship race ave 73.566mph SCCA 11/28/1965 Barker, Allan 100-6 Central National Champion 1st E Production SCCA championship raceave 73.566mph, 51 points Road America Elkhart Lake Wisc. 6/21/1964 Barker, Allan J. 100-6 Louisville, Ky Race 3 D&E 81 E P Meadowdale Ill. 7/4/1965 Barker, Allen 100-6 E & F Production Road America Elkhart Lake Wisc. 9/8/1962 Barker, Allen 3000 0 12 Meadowdale ILl. 8/4/1963 Barker, Allen 100-6 0 3 oall, 1 EP From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 16 15:56:55 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 23:56:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... The epitome of good taste In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4999EF37.4060509@chello.nl> Ed's Shop schreef: > <> > > Most likely HIF44 or HS-6 are the 'common' trick, Kees. > > Ed > > > > Over here they would bang on a double or single twin DellOrto/Weber/Solex or keep the double SU's. Keeps the fun of balancing the carbs in the game. Never saw this set up here. Kees Oudesluijs From tomleavy at comcast.net Mon Feb 16 18:23:26 2009 From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 01:23:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Mk II wiring harness In-Reply-To: <1661338287.882941234833610324.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <834813497.884331234833806411.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Jon- Try these guys: www. autosparks .co.uk/ They will thread the tracer you need to order, and supply alot of the guys reselling them in the US. got mine from them- they were slow and a a little disorganized, but nice product and best price. Just be aware, as with others, the bulb holders for instrument lghts will have to be switched out for originals, as they're plastic. Tom From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Feb 16 18:28:46 2009 From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:28:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Mk II wiring harness Message-ID: <20090216.202846.536.7.dwflagg@juno.com> Jon, It was my understanding when Leslie and her husband owned British Wiring, that they got their harnesses from Autosparks and that you could order one to your specs through them (British Wiring). Has this changed? Doug > Jon- > Try these guys: > www. autosparks .co.uk/ > > They will thread the tracer you need to order, and supply alot of > the guys reselling them in the US. got mine from them- they were > slow and a a little disorganized, but nice product and best price. > Just be aware, as with others, the bulb holders for instrument lghts > will have to be switched out for originals, as they're plastic. > > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Click now for fast, effective bail bonds! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2QoL0FSovJuOyUIEuDZXYfVJkH3uAnkPXl0V3Qw9xUcddTe/ From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 18:31:20 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 09:31:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Mk II wiring harness In-Reply-To: <834813497.884331234833806411.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1661338287.882941234833610324.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <834813497.884331234833806411.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: All - Even better than Autosparks, I will personally vouch for these guys: http://www.thewiringharness.co.uk/ Be sure to talk to Peter, he's the owner and VERY helpful. He will make your harness exactly as you specify, even send him your old one to copy if necessary. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 9:23 AM, wrote: > Jon- > Try these guys: > www. autosparks .co.uk/ > > They will thread the tracer you need to order, and supply alot of the guys > reselling them in the US. got mine from them- they were slow and a a little > disorganized, but nice product and best price. Just be aware, as with > others, the bulb holders for instrument lghts will have to be switched out > for originals, as they're plastic. > > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From don at anglesey.us Tue Feb 17 08:58:52 2009 From: don at anglesey.us (Don ) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 08:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo Choke Carby Thingy Q In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Alan, Every time my HD6's start to drip it is the jet assembly causing the problem. I had a 59' with the thermo choke and never had a problem with it leaking. Sounds like a minor rebuild is in order and the Burlen kits should have everything you need. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:47 AM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Thermo Choke Carby Thingy Q Hi All - Apologies - I know this is the Austin Healey list (not the Jaguar list) but generally speaking I find collectively you all are far more mechanically minded than your typical Jag person, so I am asking the question here. I believe I am having a problem with the Thermo choke unit on my Jaguar Mk IX. The set up is identical to the early Mk1s with the thermo choke (i.e. dual HD6s - TC on the front carb). My Mk IX is running decent at speed, but at idle she runs very rough and keeps wanting to die. She is using LOTS of go-juice. I figured it just needed a tune, and went to tune the Carbies but when I got into it, I realized that fuel was dripping from the Venturi chamber of the front carb which is where the Thermo Choke is attached (even when the car is warm & the TC is off). I realized it was leaking so much fuel that the fuel was puddling on the bottom of the Venturi chamber, probably blocking off the little hole for the slow idle causing the very rough idle.... My question is... is it the TC causing this, or maybe do I have a cracked diaphragm on the carby? Is there something specific that commonly causes this problem? I just want to be prepared before I start ripping the whole thing apart to fix it. I already have my SU Burlen rebuild kits for the HD6s... is this enough? Thanks for your sage advice... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From lgalper1 at cox.net Tue Feb 17 13:05:31 2009 From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:05:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Parts from England... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499B188B.3090905@cox.net> Besides the usual suppliers, have you used Anglo parts? I've never ordered from them, but they have extensive Healey/MG/ Triumph/ Jaguar catalogs. Lou BN1 AN5 From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Feb 17 13:18:17 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:18:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK Message-ID: Be careful when doing business with Alistair Shaw magicmidgetman . He offered me a part yesterday one on one, only to write back today that he listed it on eBay. He seems to suffer from assholeism.. Dave On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for the UK eBay? frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ From jobu53 at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 13:24:40 2009 From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:24:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Message-ID: I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 17 13:33:22 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:33:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non-healey related In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Todd, on the MGB you can replace the all the seals with out any major work. The rear seal you will need to remove the rear engine plate, The from seal remove the timing cover. While the timing cover is off replace the timing chain and tensioner. Make sure you replace the side cover gaskets and motor mounts while the engine is out. Also the motor mount brackets commonly break. The transmission also front seal remove front cover, rear seal remove flange only. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 16, 2009, at 9:32 AM, Taylor, Todd S wrote: > I'm getting ready to buy parts for my MGB, I need a new clutch so I > have > to pull the motor and tranny, > > While I'm doing it , my plan is to replace gaskets seals, mounts > etc... > on the engine and transmission with overdrive. > > > > My question is (if any one is familiar with MGB's) can I replace the > oil seals (front and back) on the engine and transmission(overdrive) > > Without dismantling the whole thing?? Can I just pull the seals > off and > replace them?? From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Tue Feb 17 13:34:33 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:34:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502A43@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> For what its worth: I am no longer a fan of lightened flywheels. Too much jerking in slow traffic and slowing down for stop lights. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as kendall.freese at aerojet.com http://www.team.net/archive From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Feb 17 13:36:25 2009 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:36:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> nope Dave Porter wrote: > > On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for the UK > eBay? From WILLYS49 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 13:35:46 2009 From: WILLYS49 at aol.com (WILLYS49 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:35:46 EST Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Message-ID: Dan, I recently wrestled with those same questions. I wanted to get the extra acceleration and sent my flywheel off to a recommended machine shop. The cost unexpectedly escalated when incidentals like polishing and balancing were suddenly added as "extras." Get the full package price! Was it worth it? In my case, probably not. I just wanted a reliable A-H that I can use on local paved roads. I used replacing my clutch as an opportunity (excuse) to spend the extra money. I really don't feel much added performance but never have a chance to drive it before clutch quit on me. I guess it depends on how you will use your Healey and how much $ is available. Just my thoughts. Thanks, Eric In a message dated 2/17/09 12:25:13 PM, jobu53 at hotmail.com writes: > I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do some > engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will improve > performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much lighter the > BJ8 > flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if the BJ8 flywheel is > the best option or should I have mine machined down or purchase an aluminum > flywheel? Thanks for any input. > > > > Dan Serrao > > 1963 BJ7 > > ************** You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Tue Feb 17 14:09:20 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:09:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Parts from England... In-Reply-To: <499B188B.3090905@cox.net> References: <499B188B.3090905@cox.net> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750053B3329@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Lou, Parts quality similar to other suppliers, but Anglo Parts price is about 20% higher. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Lou G Gesendet: Dienstag, 17. Februar 2009 21:06 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Subject: Parts from England... Besides the usual suppliers, have you used Anglo parts? I've never ordered from them, but they have extensive Healey/MG/ Triumph/ Jaguar catalogs. Lou BN1 AN5 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 14:26:46 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:26:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <762024349.2530641234906006068.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> A while back I asked what was to be gained from lightening Healey flywheels. It didn't make sense to me, since a few pounds on the flywheel would have to be inconsequential compared to the 2,400 lbs or so the engine was being asked to motivate; i.e. the rotating mass of the flywheel didn't matter squat compared to the mass of the drivetrain and the car overall. Gary Andersen (our own 'editorgary') pointed out the main advantage was that the engine could free rev quicker, allowing for faster downshifts in races. Given the 'crashbox' personality of a stock Healey gearbox it didn't seem like there was much to be gained outside of racing, where either the gearboxes were modified or the driver was willing to tolerate crunching shifts for a few seconds off the clock. Plus, if your car is a street driver you'll spend lots of time idling in traffic and the heavier flywheel makes for a smoother, more consistent idle. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: WILLYS49 at aol.com To: jobu53 at hotmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:35:46 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Dan, I recently wrestled with those same questions. I wanted to get the extra acceleration and sent my flywheel off to a recommended machine shop. The cost unexpectedly escalated when incidentals like polishing and balancing were suddenly added as "extras." Get the full package price! Was it worth it? In my case, probably not. I just wanted a reliable A-H that I can use on local paved roads. I used replacing my clutch as an opportunity (excuse) to spend the extra money. I really don't feel much added performance but never have a chance to drive it before clutch quit on me. I guess it depends on how you will use your Healey and how much $ is available. Just my thoughts. Thanks, Eric I From bcrist at club-internet.fr Tue Feb 17 14:44:27 2009 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:44:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> True, you can't access ebay.uk from ebay.com B Bob Haskell a icrit : > nope > > Dave Porter wrote: > >> >> On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for >> the UK >> eBay? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Feb 17 15:26:54 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:26:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> For all national ebay sites you keep your own ID/user name and password. Just change .com into .co.uk (GB), .de (Germany), .au (Australia, .at (Austria), .it (Italy), .nl (Netherlands, .fr (France) etc. You can even put up your selling add on an ebay site outside your own country. I do it most of the time. I usualy use the co.uk site to cover more potential clients. You can access all international sites from .com by selecting the correct items when you go to advanced searching. Kees Oudesluijs Bernard Cristalli schreef: > True, you can't access ebay.uk from ebay.com > B > > Bob Haskell a icrit : >> nope >> >> Dave Porter wrote: >> >>> >>> On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for >>> the UK >>> eBay? >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Feb 17 15:38:31 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 17:38:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo Choke Carby Thingy Q References: Message-ID: I concur, I have a thermo choke on my '60 and it had never leaked. Mirek 60 BT7 > Alan, > Every time my HD6's start to drip it is the jet assembly causing the > problem. I had a 59' with the thermo choke and never had a problem with > it leaking. Sounds like a minor rebuild is in order and the Burlen kits > should have everything you need. > Don > 57' BN4 From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Tue Feb 17 15:59:07 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:59:07 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Message-ID: <20090218095907.10975ipai4dmxhkr@webmail.hotkey.net.au> FWIW To fit $500 running shoes on an overweight, breathing restricted man with one short leg and one leaky heart valve will not make him run faster. Improved car performance is a matter of overall increase in efficiencies. No one modification will deliver value for money performance increases. Driveability is a personal thing. My 3000 has a 3.5 diff. a Sebring set of gear ratios ( good for 80mph in second, havent tested first) and I have driven it across Sydney Harbour Bridge and down the main streets of Sydney, no drama. The car engine, if the Webers are ignored, appears quite standard spec. except for the huge cam timing. But obviously it is all a matching set of blue-printed details to take advantage of the Webers and cam From bcrist at club-internet.fr Tue Feb 17 16:08:35 2009 From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 00:08:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> <499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> I do the same thing Kees, but there are some incompatibilities when you are in "my ebay.uk" to access other sites. See below a try to access a US add from ebay.uk item # 130287512312 /Dear User:/ /Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay./ /Thank You./ /Hit the return button to return to the previous page./ Bernard Oudesluys a icrit : > For all national ebay sites you keep your own ID/user name and > password. Just change .com into .co.uk (GB), .de (Germany), .au > (Australia, .at (Austria), .it (Italy), .nl (Netherlands, .fr (France) > etc. > You can even put up your selling add on an ebay site outside your own > country. I do it most of the time. I usualy use the co.uk site to > cover more potential clients. > You can access all international sites from .com by selecting the > correct items when you go to advanced searching. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Bernard Cristalli schreef: >> True, you can't access ebay.uk from ebay.com >> B >> >> Bob Haskell a icrit : >>> nope >>> >>> Dave Porter wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for >>>> the UK >>>> eBay? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From pennell at cox.net Tue Feb 17 17:06:54 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 19:06:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502A43@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> Message-ID: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> Ken, I disagree. I cannot tell any difference in smoothness of engine. It does rev noticeably quicker than my BJ8. Does it make a difference in acceleration/performance? I have no data but it feels quicker. Keith > For what its worth: I am no longer a fan of lightened flywheels. Too > much jerking in slow traffic and slowing down for stop lights. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:25 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels > > I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do > some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will > improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much > lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if > the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down > or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. > > > > Dan Serrao From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Feb 17 17:50:41 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:50:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr><499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: I tried to list a pre-war MG part on Ebay UK with my Ebay USA Userid and Password and it would not let me, I don't remember the message, and I didn't pursue it, but it definitely did not let me list the item, don't know about buying from other countries E-bay, haven't tried it. Greg Lemon From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 18:18:54 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:18:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo Choke Carby Thingy Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All - I learned something new today and thought I would share it with anyone interested. Apparently, the Thermo choke used on my Jag Mk IX (and some early BN7/BT7s) is a gravity fed device and is very sensitive to the level of fuel in the SU's Carburettor float chamber. This means if the level of fuel in the float chamber goes too high, it will leak through the Thermo Choke and back into the Carb. It's actually a bit of a long path for it to go from the Float chamber, through the SU carb body, through the Thermo choke, and back into the SU Venturi chamber - my mind didn't understand this was going on..... For normal SUs, if the fuel level goes to high it just goes out the overflow tube on top of your float chamber. In the case of a thermo choke equipped carb, this will never happen, it will overflow through the thermo choke into the carb's venturi chamber. Needless to say, I had a devil of a time to figure this one out, and to make matters worse I had a float chamber jet which passed the blowing test, but in fact was leaking when fuel was put to it. My leaky carb problem was fixed by replacing the jet with a new Grose jet I happened to have in my kit. Cheers, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 6:38 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > I concur, > > I have a thermo choke on my '60 and it had never leaked. > > Mirek From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Feb 17 18:25:40 2009 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 20:25:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: <8CB5F7EF1EC3365-A70-176E@WEBMAIL-MB14.sysops.aol.com> Slightly off the lighten flywheel topic, well maybe not. The engines we are mainly talking about, the Austin 6 cylinder, is an inherently smooth engine. Not a V12 but an inline 6 generally has good balance characteristics. Less cylinders has added issues especially in the older designs. To the point, I use a BJ8 flywheel on our BN2 which is substantially lighter than the stock BN2 unit. IM(not so)HO there is a difference in seat of the pants enjoyment especially on acceleration with no noticeable change in traffic or at idle. Of course not every one drives these cars the same (not even on the same side of the road) but I don't think anyone is running a 12 pound flywheel on the street, perhaps some of you guys in Australia! Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: pennell at cox.net To: Dan ; Freese, Ken ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 2:06 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flywheels Ken, I disagree. I cannot tell any difference in smoothness of engine. It does rev noticeably quicker than my BJ8. Does it make a difference in acceleration/performance? I have no data but it feels quicker. Keith > For what its worth: I am no longer a fan of lightened flywheels. Too > much jerking in slow traffic and slowing down for stop lights. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:25 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels > > I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do > some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will > improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much > lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if > the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down > or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. > > > > Dan Serrao From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 18:41:01 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:41:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit Message-ID: To the electrically minded - I would like to create an "OR" circuit (i.e. OR gate) using standard automotive relays (or similar equipment), basically if one or another input is on, or both, then the output wire is on. Maybe if I'm lucky someone knows of an off the shelf OR relay I can buy? Any suggestions on how this is easily or simply achieved? Thanks, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 19:20:44 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:20:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not sure if I understand what you are trying to do. Are you trying to: A) If input is on output #1 is on, or if input is off, output #2 is on (one input, two outputs) Or B) If input #1 is on, output is on, and/or if output #2 is on then output is on (two inputs one output) Or C) ??? A is no problem, B is only slightly harder, C is in the I have no idea area. Rick On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 5:41 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > To the electrically minded - > > I would like to create an "OR" circuit (i.e. OR gate) using standard > automotive relays (or similar equipment), basically if one or another input > is on, or both, then the output wire is on. Maybe if I'm lucky someone > knows of an off the shelf OR relay I can buy? > > Any suggestions on how this is easily or simply achieved? > > Thanks, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 19:26:48 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 10:26:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick - Input 1 Input 2 | Output 1 If Input 1 OR Input 2 is on (or both are on), then Output 1 is on. Output 1 is off only if both Input 1 and Input 2 are off. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Not sure if I understand what you are trying to do. > Are you trying to: > A) If input is on output #1 is on, or if input is off, output #2 is on (one > input, two outputs) > Or > B) If input #1 is on, output is on, and/or if output #2 is on then output > is on (two inputs one output) > Or > C) ??? > > A is no problem, B is only slightly harder, C is in the I have no idea > area. > Rick > > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 5:41 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> To the electrically minded - >> >> I would like to create an "OR" circuit (i.e. OR gate) using standard >> automotive relays (or similar equipment), basically if one or another >> input >> is on, or both, then the output wire is on. Maybe if I'm lucky someone >> knows of an off the shelf OR relay I can buy? >> >> Any suggestions on how this is easily or simply achieved? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From kags at shaw.ca Tue Feb 17 19:34:53 2009 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:34:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels References: Message-ID: <9FB1E167D3CA44419D50B18F8FB995D8@computer> Dan, Gentlemen: What everyone seems to have missed here is the primary reason that people convert to a BJ8 flywheel in the earlier 6 cyl. engine - the ability to install a BJ8 clutch without having to have a machine shop rework the dowel peg locations and clutch mounting bolt pattern. Those who have done so - myself included - seem to think that the BJ8 clutch is a great improvement over the earlier one. I believe that the flywheel weights are the same on both the BJ7 and BJ8. Whether or not to lighten the flywheel on a road car wouild depend on what the owner is trying to achieve, and the result would depend on exactly how light the modification is. I did this on my BT7 years ago - moderately lightened BJ8 flywheel and clutch and have been very happy with the result. The engine (otherwise totally stock) builds revs slightly quicker on hard acceleration, and yet still has a good idle quality. I used a flywheel from Bill Bolton - I think the weight reduction is something like 4 - 5 pounds, not really enough if you're building a competition engine, but fine for a driver Healey. I was happy enough with the change that I had Bill lighten my BJ8 flywheel as well - that has also worked out very well - idle quality has been fine. So ---------- Dan, as long as you're 'in there anyway', I would recommend a BJ8 flywheel (moderately lightened if you wish) along with the BJ8 clutch. >From personal experience, it will work well on your BJ7. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:24 PM Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 19:43:59 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 02:43:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> <499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: Bernard I am a Uk resident and Uk ebay lister and had no problem seeing the MgBGt that you referenced, I think it all has to do with how the lister chooses to list his auction, and in this case it is available for shipping worldwide, hence I will NOT see it if I did a UK local ebay search for mgbgt but WOULD if I then changed the preference on the left column to location = worldwide. Andy > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 00:08:35 +0100 > From: bcrist at club-internet.fr > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] eBay UK > > I do the same thing Kees, but there are some incompatibilities when you > are in "my ebay.uk" to access other sites. > See below a try to access a US add from ebay.uk > > item # 130287512312 > > /Dear User:/ > > /Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to > legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an > effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in > some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not > within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing > technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may > cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay./ > > /Thank You./ > > /Hit the return button to return to the previous page./ > > > Bernard > _________________________________________________________________ Make a mini you and download it into Windows Live Messenger http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/111354029/direct/01/ From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 19:59:34 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 02:59:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <8CB5F7EF1EC3365-A70-176E@WEBMAIL-MB14.sysops.aol.com> References: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> <8CB5F7EF1EC3365-A70-176E@WEBMAIL-MB14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Perry Along those lines, that why the BMW straight six engines were always so good (especially in the M3, god knows why they went v8), also thats why Audi started the straight 5 engines (Audi Quatro) so that the cycles would overlap in degrees unlike the 4, but not as costly as the 6. Andy > > Slightly off the lighten flywheel topic, well maybe not. The engines we > are mainly talking about, the Austin 6 cylinder, is an inherently > smooth engine. Not a V12 but an inline 6 generally has good balance > characteristics. Less cylinders has added issues especially in the > older designs. To the point, I use a BJ8 flywheel on our BN2 which is > substantially lighter than the stock BN2 unit. IM(not so)HO there is a > difference in seat of the pants enjoyment especially on acceleration > with no noticeable change in traffic or at idle. Of course not every > one drives these cars the same (not even on the same side of the road) > but I don't think anyone is running a 12 pound flywheel on the street, > perhaps some of you guys in Australia! > Aloha > Perry > _________________________________________________________________ Discover Bird's Eye View now with Multimap from Live Search http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/111354026/direct/01/ From ampole at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 20:38:01 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 03:38:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan To put it really simply you would not need a relay as you will be using switches to drive the relay, you can do it with just 2 way switches wired in parallel, (parrallel is OR, series is AND) input 1 on first switch (2 way switch) input 2 on second switch (2 way switch) then for arguments sake wire both sides of the switch to a bulb, then earth the bulb. Either switches will turn on the bulb, or both together, if both are off the bulb will be off you could do it with a semiconductor logic gate, but 2 switches would do hope that makes sense Andy > Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit > > To the electrically minded - > > I would like to create an "OR" circuit (i.e. OR gate) using standard > automotive relays (or similar equipment), basically if one or another input > is on, or both, then the output wire is on. Maybe if I'm lucky someone > knows of an off the shelf OR relay I can buy? > > Any suggestions on how this is easily or simply achieved? _________________________________________________________________ Get all your favourite content with the slick new MSN Toolbar - FREE http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/111354027/direct/01/ From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 20:41:09 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 11:41:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Andy - Great, thank you, this is helpful. I will need to use Relays to do the switching (as the circuits are auto switched) but this helps me mentally. Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 11:38 AM, andy pole wrote: > Alan > > To put it really simply you would not need a relay as you will be using > switches to drive the relay, you can do it with just 2 way switches wired in > parallel, (parrallel is OR, series is AND) > > input 1 on first switch (2 way switch) > input 2 on second switch (2 way switch) > > then for arguments sake wire both sides of the switch to a bulb, then earth > the bulb. > > Either switches will turn on the bulb, or both together, > if both are off the bulb will be off > > you could do it with a semiconductor logic gate, but 2 switches would do > > hope that makes sense > > Andy From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 20:51:34 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 11:51:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... Message-ID: from Top Gear. He gave me a nice nod and salute (my Mk IX is in very good shape). They are filming next season of Top Gear here in Hong Kong, and they've asked for my Austin A90 Atlantic to be on display... I'll let you know if anything comes of it. I think they selected my car for display because when I submitted the car for the show, I wrote a note that the A90 was "the biggest automotive financial failure in British history." I figured they would like that, I was right. Cheers! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Tue Feb 17 22:43:04 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:43:04 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090218164304.44832pulkaomvkko@webmail.hotkey.net.au> the A90 was "the biggest automotive financial failure in British history." I figured they > would like that, I was right. > > IT IS AN ILL WIND THAT BLOWS NO GOOD Without the por acceptance and sales of the A.90 Atlantic there would never have been a ready availability of running gear for Donald and Geoff Healey to base their new Healey on and be confidant that components would be available to a small specialist outfit such as the Dona;ld Healey Motor Co. Remember it was the limited and diminishing access to the previous Riley engine and gearbox the previous Healeys ( NO AUSTIN ) were based on From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Tue Feb 17 22:46:55 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:46:55 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090218164655.181737zovl8cnzrj@webmail.hotkey.net.au> Alan Please ask Mr. Hammond how the 998 cc Austin Healey Sprite out performed the modern V.6 Renault or was it a Citroen at a hillclimb featured in one of their older series From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com Wed Feb 18 00:19:56 2009 From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:19:56 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Break Pedal Message-ID: <001201c99199$4d058140$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Hi All I am experiencing a problem with the break pedal an my BN1 on the pedal assembly the short arm that connects to the master cylinder hits the foot well thus not allowing the pedal to be in the fully off position. The approx length of this arm 3 inch if I were to shorten by about 1/2 inch and re position the hole that connects to the push rod brake master cylinder .Does any one see a problem Regards Keith From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 18 01:59:50 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:59:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net> <499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr> <499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl> <499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: <499BCE06.8000002@chello.nl> Bernard, I never came accross anything like it, but I can imagine that there are some legal implications resultong in certain restrictions. Thanks for the update. The only thing that happens to me is that a bid is sometimes blocked automatically when the seller wants to sell to one country or a group of countries only. Most people do not know how to do this and may not send the item to you, but the majority will even if it is indicated for one country in they live Kees Oudesluijs NL Bernard Cristalli schreef: > I do the same thing Kees, but there are some incompatibilities when you > are in "my ebay.uk" to access other sites. > See below a try to access a US add from ebay.uk > > item # 130287512312 > > /Dear User:/ > > /Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to > legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an > effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in > some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not > within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing > technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may > cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay./ > > /Thank You./ > > /Hit the return button to return to the previous page./ > > > Bernard > > > > > Oudesluys a icrit : > >> For all national ebay sites you keep your own ID/user name and >> password. Just change .com into .co.uk (GB), .de (Germany), .au >> (Australia, .at (Austria), .it (Italy), .nl (Netherlands, .fr (France) >> etc. >> You can even put up your selling add on an ebay site outside your own >> country. I do it most of the time. I usualy use the co.uk site to >> cover more potential clients. >> You can access all international sites from .com by selecting the >> correct items when you go to advanced searching. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Bernard Cristalli schreef: >> >>> True, you can't access ebay.uk from ebay.com >>> B >>> >>> Bob Haskell a icrit : >>> >>>> nope >>>> >>>> Dave Porter wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>> On a side note, is it required to have a separate ID/user name for >>>>> the UK >>>>> eBay? >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com >>>> >>>> http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 18 02:25:33 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 10:25:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> References: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> Message-ID: <499BD40D.8020407@chello.nl> It is always hard to compare before and after the rebuild performances. Before, the engine was probably tired hence the rebuild. After, performance will always be better, even if the rebuild is bog standard. A lightened flywheel will not give you extra BHP, but it will give you a better engine response and better accelleration (mainly because one can shift gears quicker) at the cost of less smoothness, depending of how much inertia you removed. If overdone drivebility will be affected, but worse may be the possible damage to the drivetrain, especially in highly tuned engines. Sometimes you get pitting of the gears in the gearbox and/or differential if the engine vibrations (bangs per pot) are not sufficiently damped (by the inertia of the flywheel). I experienced this way back in the 60's with a Fiat Abarth 1000 and a Glas 1304TS run on the track. It is also sound engineering knowledge and a well known phenomina with gearbox designers. It may call for different oil and/or an oil cooler for the gearbox. Kees Oudesluijs NL pennell at cox.net schreef: > Ken, > > I disagree. I cannot tell any difference in smoothness of engine. It does rev noticeably quicker than my BJ8. Does it make a difference in acceleration/performance? I have no data but it feels quicker. > > Keith > > >> For what its worth: I am no longer a fan of lightened flywheels. Too >> much jerking in slow traffic and slowing down for stop lights. >> Ken Freese >> 65 BJ8 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan >> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:25 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels >> >> I have a BJ7 with engine number 29F-H4376 and am getting ready to do >> some engine work. I have read here that a lightened flywheel will >> improve performance. I want to ask the group if anyone knows how much >> lighter the BJ8 flywheel is compared to the BJ7. Also, your thoughts if >> the BJ8 flywheel is the best option or should I have mine machined down >> or purchase an aluminum flywheel? Thanks for any input. >> >> >> >> Dan Serrao >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Hartangus at aol.com Wed Feb 18 05:30:03 2009 From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 07:30:03 EST Subject: [Healeys] flywheels Message-ID: Way back in 1959 I lightened my BN4 flywheel simply to get faster gear changes, and it worked Regards Barrie from England From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com Wed Feb 18 05:58:54 2009 From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 06:58:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A546A@XMBIL101.northgrum.com> Alan - You don't need a relay to accomplish what you want. All you need are two silicon diodes (rectifiers).They must have a current capacity that is higher than the circuit you wish to drive. Hook up is as follows (Assuming negative ground). The Anode of diode 1 is connected to "input 1". Anode of diode 2 connected to "input 2". The Cathodes of the two diodes are connected together and they are the "output". For positive ground, reverse the diode polarity. - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 10:41 PM To: andy pole Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question - OR Circuit Andy - Great, thank you, this is helpful. I will need to use Relays to do the switching (as the circuits are auto switched) but this helps me mentally. Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 11:38 AM, andy pole wrote: > Alan > > To put it really simply you would not need a relay as you will be > using switches to drive the relay, you can do it with just 2 way > switches wired in parallel, (parrallel is OR, series is AND) > > input 1 on first switch (2 way switch) input 2 on second switch (2 way > switch) > > then for arguments sake wire both sides of the switch to a bulb, then > earth the bulb. > > Either switches will turn on the bulb, or both together, if both are > off the bulb will be off > > you could do it with a semiconductor logic gate, but 2 switches would > do > > hope that makes sense > > Andy Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bernard.johnsen at ngc.com http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Wed Feb 18 06:22:35 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 05:22:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1615A5FBA5B84EFDA133D3BBAF88E968@TRACY> Alan, Are you saying that the Austin A90 Atlantic is Britain's Edsel? Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 7:52 PM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... from Top Gear. He gave me a nice nod and salute (my Mk IX is in very good shape). They are filming next season of Top Gear here in Hong Kong, and they've asked for my Austin A90 Atlantic to be on display... I'll let you know if anything comes of it. I think they selected my car for display because when I submitted the car for the show, I wrote a note that the A90 was "the biggest automotive financial failure in British history." I figured they would like that, I was right. Cheers! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 06:57:37 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:57:37 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard Hammond... In-Reply-To: <1615A5FBA5B84EFDA133D3BBAF88E968@TRACY> References: <1615A5FBA5B84EFDA133D3BBAF88E968@TRACY> Message-ID: EXACTLY! It's actually how the A90 is commonly described... Alan On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 9:22 PM, Tracy Drummond wrote: > Alan, > > Are you saying that the Austin A90 Atlantic is Britain's Edsel? > > Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! > President AHCUSA www.healey.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 7:52 PM > To: Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Just drove by a cafe in the Jag Mk IX and saw Richard > Hammond... > > from Top Gear. > > He gave me a nice nod and salute (my Mk IX is in very good shape). > > They are filming next season of Top Gear here in Hong Kong, and they've > asked for my Austin A90 Atlantic to be on display... I'll let you know if > anything comes of it. I think they selected my car for display because when > I submitted the car for the show, I wrote a note that the A90 was "the > biggest automotive financial failure in British history." I figured they > would like that, I was right. > > Cheers! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 06:58:13 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 05:58:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <499BD40D.8020407@chello.nl> References: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> <499BD40D.8020407@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499C13F5.8090206@comcast.net> Good info, Kees. I still don't see how a lightened flywheel gives faster upshifts (or acceleration), given that revving isn't (usually) required, as it is for smooth downshifts. Bob Oudesluys wrote: > It is always hard to compare before and after the rebuild > performances. Before, the engine was probably tired hence the rebuild. > After, performance will always be better, even if the rebuild is bog > standard. > A lightened flywheel will not give you extra BHP, but it will give you > a better engine response and better accelleration (mainly because one > can shift gears quicker) at the cost of less smoothness, depending of > how much inertia you removed. If overdone drivebility will be > affected, but worse may be the possible damage to the drivetrain, > especially in highly tuned engines. Sometimes you get pitting of the > gears in the gearbox and/or differential if the engine vibrations > (bangs per pot) are not sufficiently damped (by the inertia of the > flywheel). I experienced this way back in the 60's with a Fiat Abarth > 1000 and a Glas 1304TS run on the track. It is also sound engineering > knowledge and a well known phenomina with gearbox designers. It may > call for different oil and/or an oil cooler for the gearbox. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 18 07:20:56 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:20:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels In-Reply-To: <499C13F5.8090206@comcast.net> References: <20090217190654.9A9QQ.12046.imail@eastrmwml49> <499BD40D.8020407@chello.nl> <499C13F5.8090206@comcast.net> Message-ID: <499C1948.20708@chello.nl> Bob, When you lift the accelerator/loud pedal the engine drops its revs faster and the synchro hubs/rings will need less effort (thus quicker) to equalize the revs of the engine and gearbox input shaft. Also if you have a no synchro box (racing) or worn synchro rings you have to double declutch at down shifts which will also be faster if the engine respons to the accelerator is better. Also banging in the gearstick at upshifts is faster as again the engine drops its revs faster. Hope this helps. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > Good info, Kees. > > I still don't see how a lightened flywheel gives faster upshifts (or > acceleration), given that revving isn't (usually) required, as it is > for smooth downshifts. > > > Bob > > > Oudesluys wrote: >> It is always hard to compare before and after the rebuild >> performances. Before, the engine was probably tired hence the >> rebuild. After, performance will always be better, even if the >> rebuild is bog standard. >> A lightened flywheel will not give you extra BHP, but it will give >> you a better engine response and better accelleration (mainly because >> one can shift gears quicker) at the cost of less smoothness, >> depending of how much inertia you removed. If overdone drivebility >> will be affected, but worse may be the possible damage to the >> drivetrain, especially in highly tuned engines. Sometimes you get >> pitting of the gears in the gearbox and/or differential if the engine >> vibrations (bangs per pot) are not sufficiently damped (by the >> inertia of the flywheel). I experienced this way back in the 60's >> with a Fiat Abarth 1000 and a Glas 1304TS run on the track. It is >> also sound engineering knowledge and a well known phenomina with >> gearbox designers. It may call for different oil and/or an oil cooler >> for the gearbox. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - > Henry Ford > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 18 07:35:14 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:35:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Message-ID: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> There is a multiplier effect in the lower gears especially, I took about 10-12 pounds off my BN1 flywheel, which is a boat anchor at the 40 some pounds it weighs stock. Anyway 1st gear in the BN1 is 9.28 to 1. So when you accelerate you are not only accelerating the mass of the vehicle, but also the reciprocating mass of the motor, multplied by 9 plus times when in 1st gear. Now I don't know if 10 pounds off the flywheel translates directly to 90 pounds off the car, but the gear ratio multiplier does have some effect. When you upshift to match engine speed with car speed the motor needs to slow down as you go up each gear, lighter flywheel means motor slows down faster when you get off the gas and shift. That all being said when I redid my 100 motor I didn't notice any change in shifting speed, from my admittedly slow synchros in the original 3 speed, nor did I notice any problem or change with driveability or smoothness. I don't know what others charge, but my local clutch and brake shop charged me $70 to take 10 plus pounds off, balance, polish, but my local clutch and brake shop is known by the locals "in the know" as a treasure for its quality service and reasonable prices. So all said, IMHO, if you are building a racing engine or want that last little bit of performance definitely lighten, if you are building your Healey to be a street car with "a little more performance than stock with little or no degradation of driveability" I would say it is a judgment call. You will probably not get a lot of seat of the pants or measurable performance difference, but on the other hand it is all the tweaks put together that make the better motor, balancing, maybe a little cam, compression boost, porting and polishing etc. So look at your goals and budget and decide accordingly. Greg Lemon Been there done that From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 18 07:39:43 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:39:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels Correction In-Reply-To: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> References: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> Message-ID: <695C73D8FFAD459888CA58F6692B61E9@GregPC> I should have said rotating mass in the first paragraph, not reciprocating mass, which would be the up and down stuff, pistones, rods, etc. which benefits even more from weight reduction, but that is another story, or perhaps can of worms for this list. Greg Lemon From rdavies1 at cox.net Wed Feb 18 10:31:41 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:31:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] adj steering wheel Message-ID: <0101F9C0DBE2480C8E877F2DF3641CD4@OfficeDell> Listers: My 67 BJ8 adjustable steering column is pushing the wheel forward as my aging stomach is pushing out. I can't remember whether the collet turns clockwise or counter clockwise as I'm sitting in the car. Don't want to force it either way. Anyone know off hand? TIA Ron Davies Laguna Hills From nlaredbt7 at tbc.net Wed Feb 18 11:09:40 2009 From: nlaredbt7 at tbc.net (Neil Anderson) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 12:09:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] adj steering wheel References: <0101F9C0DBE2480C8E877F2DF3641CD4@OfficeDell> Message-ID: Hi Ron, Just checked mine. Right is Loose, Left is Tight. Opposite to a normal nut/bolt arrangement. Neil Anderson '60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davies" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 11:31 AM Subject: [Healeys] adj steering wheel > Listers: > My 67 BJ8 adjustable steering column is pushing the wheel forward as my > aging stomach is pushing out. > I can't remember whether the collet turns clockwise or counter clockwise > as > I'm sitting in the car. > Don't want to force it either way. > Anyone know off hand? > TIA > Ron Davies > Laguna Hills > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as nlaredbt7 at tbc.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 18 11:15:07 2009 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 13:15:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] adj steering wheel In-Reply-To: <0101F9C0DBE2480C8E877F2DF3641CD4@OfficeDell> References: <0101F9C0DBE2480C8E877F2DF3641CD4@OfficeDell> Message-ID: <000001c991f4$d4613d40$7d23b7c0$@rr.com> Ron, as you sit in the seat, you turn the collet clockwise to loosen. It's a normal right-hand thread, so if you were looking at it from the front of the car you would be turning it counterclockwise to loosen. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Davies Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 12:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] adj steering wheel Listers: My 67 BJ8 adjustable steering column is pushing the wheel forward as my aging stomach is pushing out. I can't remember whether the collet turns clockwise or counter clockwise as I'm sitting in the car. Don't want to force it either way. Anyone know off hand? TIA Ron Davies Laguna Hills From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 18 13:20:27 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:20:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] bearings Vandervell Message-ID: <499C6D8B.6000905@chello.nl> I came accross this site http://www.glaciervandervell.com/ .Appearantly the original company is now part of the Mahle group, who were originally making top pistons and liners. Kees Oudesluijs From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Wed Feb 18 15:23:45 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 14:23:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? Message-ID: Thanks to Doug I have the specs for the 100S cam which I am told is the same as the 100M cam, but after reading some discussions on the list about cams and flywheel lightening I am not sure what to do. My BN2 engine is not in the car yet, but the short block is assembled with a standard Moss pistons and a standard 100-4 cam profile. I still have time to change the cam as I have a spare to get re-profiled. I want a streetable car with a little more get up and go than stock. I will be using the larger carbs of the Lemans version. I am also getting the head ported and polished along with the combustion chambers evened out in volume. My question is, with the 100S/M cam, will I have to be in higher rpm ranges to get any benefit from the upgrade? Also, using a lightened (and I don't know how much to lighted it either) flywheel, am I turning this car into something which has to driven hard to get the benfit while losing a nice idle? Will the lightened flywheel beat up my transmission? That alone is a costly rebuild. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 15:32:57 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:32:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike - For reasons I won't get into, I ended up putting H6 carbs on my stock BN1 motor. The result was improved power and improved mileage! 25+ mpg! I think the M cam will improve horsepower about 10% and reduce mileage about ... 10% On 2/19/09, rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote: > Thanks to Doug I have the specs for the 100S cam which I am told is the same > as the 100M cam, but after reading some discussions on the list about cams > and flywheel lightening I am not sure what to do. My BN2 engine is not in > the car yet, but the short block is assembled with a standard Moss pistons > and a standard 100-4 cam profile. I still have time to change the cam as I > have a spare to get re-profiled. I want a streetable car with a little more > get up and go than stock. I will be using the larger carbs of the Lemans > version. I am also getting the head ported and polished along with the > combustion chambers evened out in volume. My question is, with the 100S/M > cam, will I have to be in higher rpm ranges to get any benefit from the > upgrade? Also, using a lightened (and I don't know how much to lighted it > either) flywheel, am I turning this car into something which has to driven > hard to get the benfit while losing a nice idle? Will the lightened > flywheel beat up my transmission? That alone is a costly rebuild. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From quenty at ntelos.net Wed Feb 18 16:02:15 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:02:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: Hi guys. Sometime back I asked the list if anyone had discovered a stainless exhaust system that fit with a minimum of problems. The consensus was that Falcon Systems appeared to have their quality control issues straightened out. So I ordered a system From a Moss distributor. Here's what I found, starting at the front: Picture #1,4,5 The forward pipe from the manifold to the muffler has the flange welded on crooked, swinging the pipe inward. It jams against the rear pipe and won't allow the flange to lay flat against the manifold. I only found this out after having to file the flange holes to get it on the manifold. Remedy: Heat pipe just below the flange and pull it out bit by bit. Picture. There is a picture on page A03 Moss Fall/Winter 2007 Moss needs some engineering help. Their drawing doesn't correct a damn thing. The Flange itself is the most bazaar piece of crap in this whole set- up. It is obviously laser-cut, holes and all. The center to center distance between the flange holes is 2.365. The center to center distance on the exhaust manifold studs is 2.493. That makes the Falcon holes 1/8" too close together. So what did the brilliant engineers at Falcon do? They made the holes bigger. (.470) But not quite big enough, as I had to file about .030 on each hole to allow the flange to go over the manifold studs which are .312 Dia. Precision Engineering. Picture #6 The front pipe is about 1" too long at rear of the flex area. This means the part that slips on the muffler will have to be cut off. The front bracket on the muffler is in the right place, although it could be 1/2" shorter. Picture #2,3,8,9,10 The Falcon hanger at the rear of the muffler/front of the tail pipes is off-center with a bolt welded in. My old pipes had the bracket hole centered between the pipes, I can't move the pipes over as the muffler hits the rocker and the pipes won't lay in the relief in the outrigger. Remedy: Saw off Falcon bracket. Make up a bracket to clamp both pipes with a stud on center. Picture #7 The angle clip at the extreme rear is welded on to the tail pipes about 1/2" too far forward. Remedy: Make two 1/2" spacers to put behind the mounting bracket. I have pictures of all of this which I'll be glad to provide for somebody to post. Dave and a thoroughly exhausted Daisy From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Feb 18 16:10:49 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:10:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <003601c9921e$23dd0010$6b970030$@net> I will post them with the caveat that I bought the same system for my BN6 and everything fit perfectly AND, my BN6 is a mutt with an engine out of a BT7 and a center shift tranny. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:02 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited Hi guys. Sometime back I asked the list if anyone had discovered a stainless exhaust system that fit with a minimum of problems. The consensus was that Falcon Systems appeared to have their quality control issues straightened out. So I ordered a system From a Moss distributor. Here's what I found, starting at the front: Picture #1,4,5 The forward pipe from the manifold to the muffler has the flange welded on crooked, swinging the pipe inward. It jams against the rear pipe and won't allow the flange to lay flat against the manifold. I only found this out after having to file the flange holes to get it on the manifold. Remedy: Heat pipe just below the flange and pull it out bit by bit. Picture. There is a picture on page A03 Moss Fall/Winter 2007 Moss needs some engineering help. Their drawing doesn't correct a damn thing. The Flange itself is the most bazaar piece of crap in this whole set- up. It is obviously laser-cut, holes and all. The center to center distance between the flange holes is 2.365. The center to center distance on the exhaust manifold studs is 2.493. That makes the Falcon holes 1/8" too close together. So what did the brilliant engineers at Falcon do? They made the holes bigger. (.470) But not quite big enough, as I had to file about .030 on each hole to allow the flange to go over the manifold studs which are .312 Dia. Precision Engineering. Picture #6 The front pipe is about 1" too long at rear of the flex area. This means the part that slips on the muffler will have to be cut off. The front bracket on the muffler is in the right place, although it could be 1/2" shorter. Picture #2,3,8,9,10 The Falcon hanger at the rear of the muffler/front of the tail pipes is off-center with a bolt welded in. My old pipes had the bracket hole centered between the pipes, I can't move the pipes over as the muffler hits the rocker and the pipes won't lay in the relief in the outrigger. Remedy: Saw off Falcon bracket. Make up a bracket to clamp both pipes with a stud on center. Picture #7 The angle clip at the extreme rear is welded on to the tail pipes about 1/2" too far forward. Remedy: Make two 1/2" spacers to put behind the mounting bracket. I have pictures of all of this which I'll be glad to provide for somebody to post. Dave and a thoroughly exhausted Daisy Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Wed Feb 18 16:37:34 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:37:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds like the carbs and the cam cancel each other out as far as mileage goes. Mike On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 2:32 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mike - > > For reasons I won't get into, I ended up putting H6 carbs on my stock BN1 > motor. > > The result was improved power and improved mileage! 25+ mpg! > > I think the M cam will improve horsepower about 10% and reduce mileage > about ... 10% > > > On 2/19/09, rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote: > > Thanks to Doug I have the specs for the 100S cam which I am told is the > same > > as the 100M cam, but after reading some discussions on the list about > cams > > and flywheel lightening I am not sure what to do. My BN2 engine is not > in > > the car yet, but the short block is assembled with a standard Moss > pistons > > and a standard 100-4 cam profile. I still have time to change the cam as > I > > have a spare to get re-profiled. I want a streetable car with a little > more > > get up and go than stock. I will be using the larger carbs of the Lemans > > version. I am also getting the head ported and polished along with the > > combustion chambers evened out in volume. My question is, with the > 100S/M > > cam, will I have to be in higher rpm ranges to get any benefit from the > > upgrade? Also, using a lightened (and I don't know how much to lighted > it > > either) flywheel, am I turning this car into something which has to > driven > > hard to get the benfit while losing a nice idle? Will the lightened > > flywheel beat up my transmission? That alone is a costly rebuild. > > Mike MacLean > > 56 BN2 > > 60 AN5 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 From drberkowitz at hotmail.com Wed Feb 18 16:40:27 2009 From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:40:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler Message-ID: My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. Since the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything to keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was the radiator rebuild. _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Wed Feb 18 16:48:45 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:48:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have heard that putting a chevy neck on the rad also to bring up the pressure helps also. That being said I had my radiator recored with a better core but did not change the neck, still low pressure. Have not assembled the car yet so i cannot tell you if it works. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. > Since > the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything > to > keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was > the > radiator rebuild. From jcavenaugh at mac.com Wed Feb 18 17:02:23 2009 From: jcavenaugh at mac.com (James Cavenaugh) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:02:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Tray table template Message-ID: <2B150CC6-0548-4B8C-9BA1-E9649AD96ECC@mac.com> Looking for dimensions to the wood frame of the folding table (3 panels, 5 hinges). I removed it when the wood rotted (15 years ago). Now that im ready to build one i cant find the original. AKA- Parcel Shelf. James Cavenaugh BJ8 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Feb 18 17:10:59 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:10:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. I know from experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs and one would want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one before taking that step. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com Sent: February 18, 2009 6:49 PM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler I have heard that putting a chevy neck on the rad also to bring up the pressure helps also. That being said I had my radiator recored with a better core but did not change the neck, still low pressure. Have not assembled the car yet so i cannot tell you if it works. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. > Since > the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything > to > keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was > the > radiator rebuild. From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 18 17:15:13 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:15:13 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <847E1F986FBF455F848E7F9C9D202174@GregPC> I rebult my hundred motor to M spec including increasing the compression ratio from the stock 7.5/1 to 8.5, the only thing I did not do was go with the bigger M carbs, used an M cam. I got better gas mileage going from the low 20s on the highway to high 20s, 28 29 mpg. Lightened flywheel as well to about 29 pounds, no issues with lumpy idle or loss of low end torque, the M cam is very conservative, their may be better grinds out there now for HP, but the M is tried and true and if you don't want to compromise driveability the M cam is a good choice. The M cam is 40 plus pounds stock (42? don't recall exactly), taking 10-12 pounds out of it will not result in any more wear and tear or fatigue on the tranny. Greg Lemon From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Feb 18 17:18:39 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:18:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] eBay UK References: <499B1FC9.6000202@earthlink.net><499B2FBB.8070407@club-internet.fr><499B39AE.6070604@chello.nl><499B4373.8080204@club-internet.fr> Message-ID: I buy from eBay UK from time to time with my NA userid and password with no problems. Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Bernard Cristalli" ; "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] eBay UK >I tried to list a pre-war MG part on Ebay UK with my Ebay USA Userid and >Password and it would not let me, I don't remember the message, and I >didn't pursue it, but it definitely did not let me list the item, don't >know about buying from other countries E-bay, haven't tried it. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 17:22:34 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 00:22:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <847E1F986FBF455F848E7F9C9D202174@GregPC> Message-ID: <1426208784.3112531235002954989.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Dang, that's a heavy cam!!! ;) bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "healeys" Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 4:15:13 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? I rebult my hundred motor to M spec including increasing the compression ratio from the stock 7.5/1 to 8.5, the only thing I did not do was go with the bigger M carbs, used an M cam. I got better gas mileage going from the low 20s on the highway to high 20s, 28 29 mpg. Lightened flywheel as well to about 29 pounds, no issues with lumpy idle or loss of low end torque, the M cam is very conservative, their may be better grinds out there now for HP, but the M is tried and true and if you don't want to compromise driveability the M cam is a good choice. The M cam is 40 plus pounds stock (42? don't recall exactly), taking 10-12 pounds out of it will not result in any more wear and tear or fatigue on the tranny. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Wed Feb 18 18:01:07 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:01:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <1426208784.3112531235002954989.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <847E1F986FBF455F848E7F9C9D202174@GregPC> <1426208784.3112531235002954989.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <485681168AC94982834A09F6C41A1B33@michael> BIG lifters I guess!!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: February 18, 2009 7:23 PM To: Greg Lemon Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? Dang, that's a heavy cam!!! ;) bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "healeys" Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 4:15:13 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? I rebult my hundred motor to M spec including increasing the compression ratio from the stock 7.5/1 to 8.5, the only thing I did not do was go with the bigger M carbs, used an M cam. I got better gas mileage going from the low 20s on the highway to high 20s, 28 29 mpg. Lightened flywheel as well to about 29 pounds, no issues with lumpy idle or loss of low end torque, the M cam is very conservative, their may be better grinds out there now for HP, but the M is tried and true and if you don't want to compromise driveability the M cam is a good choice. The M cam is 40 plus pounds stock (42? don't recall exactly), taking 10-12 pounds out of it will not result in any more wear and tear or fatigue on the tranny. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ From rdavies1 at cox.net Wed Feb 18 18:11:15 2009 From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:11:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: "So I ordered a system From a Moss distributor. " -------------------------- David: Just FYI and for the group.... I use Moss all the time and generally like them. When I bought my 67 BJ8 in 2002 the exhaust system was totally rusted out in spots. Thankfully about the only rust on the car. I ordered the Moss stainless steel system. Even though the advertisement said that it was only a weekend project with a couple of friends on your driveway, I took everything still boxed up to a muffler shop that came highly recommended. They said "sure, I've done these Moss kits before on Healeys. $100, two hours". So I said sure, took a seat and grabbed a magazine. Six hours later with TWO mechanics on it full time, welding, bending, cutting, swearing, and sweating, they finished. I got my wallet out. He said "you know I have to charge you more than the estimate". I said that was obvious. He said $140. I couldn't believe my ears. And yes I go back to him for any/all other muffler issues. "A couple of friends on your driveway"?? How about two pros with the car up on a lift with welding torches and tools to bend, shimmy, hammer and pry into place. I guarantee that shop will never do it again so cheaply. Unfortunately I never called Moss to complain as I probably should have. I felt so lucky to have gotten off that easily and had more projects underway. Sorry everyone about that. So when it came to installing my top kit and upholstery.....I bought and watched the installation videos then went directly to the pros and had them do it. Ron Davies Laguna Hills From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 18:22:11 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 09:22:11 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: That's a real shame. It means Falcon's quality control is all over the place. I installed a Falcon system on my BJ8 about 10 years ago, and I did the entire job by myself (with the car on jack stands) in about two hours. There was only one thing that didn't fit all that well was the inside header pipe was too short, so I just bought pipe extension at Kragen and fit it up, haven't had a problem with the system in 10 years. I probably need to wash it out, I think it's full of carbon by now. The Bell system I put on my BN1 fit like a factory OEM item. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 9:11 AM, Ron Davies wrote: > "So I ordered a system From a Moss distributor. " > -------------------------- > David: > Just FYI and for the group.... > > I use Moss all the time and generally like them. > When I bought my 67 BJ8 in 2002 the exhaust system was totally rusted out > in > spots. Thankfully about the only rust on the car. > > I ordered the Moss stainless steel system. > Even though the advertisement said that it was only a weekend project with > a > couple of friends on your driveway, I took everything still boxed up to a > muffler shop that came highly recommended. > > They said "sure, I've done these Moss kits before on Healeys. $100, two > hours". So I said sure, took a seat and grabbed a magazine. > > Six hours later with TWO mechanics on it full time, welding, bending, > cutting, swearing, and sweating, they finished. I got my wallet out. He > said "you know I have to charge you more than the estimate". I said that > was obvious. He said $140. I couldn't believe my ears. And yes I go back > to > him for any/all other muffler issues. > > "A couple of friends on your driveway"?? How about two pros with the car up > on a lift with welding torches and tools to bend, shimmy, hammer and pry > into place. I guarantee that shop will never do it again so cheaply. > > Unfortunately I never called Moss to complain as I probably should have. I > felt so lucky to have gotten off that easily and had more projects > underway. > Sorry everyone about that. > > So when it came to installing my top kit and upholstery.....I bought and > watched the installation videos then went directly to the pros and had them > do it. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Feb 18 18:21:59 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:21:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Break Pedal References: <001201c99199$4d058140$0300000a@keitheacba02ac> Message-ID: <80A481B353E341D18788071FDF011D64@ophrdc.org> Keith, Originally there is a small diamond shaped relief in the original toe board panel to allow exactly the relief needed for this. If your toe board panel has been repaired or replaced, you'll need to carefully tap the metal back (toward the inside of the car) to gain this relief. It is about 1/4" offset. See pictures. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Bailey" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 2:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] Break Pedal > Hi All > I am experiencing a problem with the break pedal an my BN1 on the > pedal assembly the short arm that connects to the master cylinder hits the > foot well thus not allowing the pedal to be in the fully off position. The > approx length of this arm 3 inch if I were to shorten by about 1/2 inch > and re > position the hole that connects to the push rod brake master > cylinder .Does any one see a problem > Regards Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Easter 05 Plus Work 086.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 4Jan09 022.jpg] From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Feb 18 18:28:59 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:28:59 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Can someone tell me in words of less than one syllable how to paste a photo to the body of an email. I use Microsoft Office Outlook and clicked on insert, clicked on picture and clicked "From File". Looks great on my screen and then sent a test to another address. Opened at the other address and it's not there. I think the computer views it as a nasty and automatically deleted it. HELP! Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 18:33:45 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:33:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <471534970902181732n1b2a1a76jd4f9deca88b0b188@mail.gmail.com> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> <471534970902181732n1b2a1a76jd4f9deca88b0b188@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <471534970902181733x2661dc49j7b7b52dc3a79d32@mail.gmail.com> Send the picture as an attachment, not in the body of the email. It's less prone to failure. To attach a file click on the paperclip icon. On Feb 18, 2009 6:29 PM, "Quinn, Patrick" wrote: G'day Can someone tell me in words of less than one syllable how to paste a photo to the body of an email. I use Microsoft Office Outlook and clicked on insert, clicked on picture and clicked "From File". Looks great on my screen and then sent a test to another address. Opened at the other address and it's not there. I think the computer views it as a nasty and automatically deleted it. HELP! Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Wed Feb 18 18:39:11 2009 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:39:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Computer Question Message-ID: <2F5B527A830E4306B1A4D8AC5B529B6E@rowe4323ef3cc5> > Patick > I use outlook express but just tried this on Micrtosoft Outlook > > Right click on photo, click Copy > Open outlook, move curser to body of new message area, right click Paste > and voila there it was > Try it, worked for me > Cheers > JohnRowe Toowoomba Qld > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Quinn, Patrick" > To: > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:28 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question > > >> G'day >> >> Can someone tell me in words of less than one syllable how to paste a >> photo to the body of an email. >> >> I use Microsoft Office Outlook and clicked on insert, clicked on picture >> and clicked "From File". >> >> Looks great on my screen and then sent a test to another address. Opened >> at the other address and it's not there. I think the computer views it >> as a nasty and automatically deleted it. >> >> HELP! >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 18:40:05 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 09:40:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: Patrick - Okay, one syllables, here we go... If the picture you want to put in your email is on a web page, then you can simply select the picture with your cursor (left button) while looking at it in IE (or firefox) and then right button it and select "copy." Then go to your new Outlook message and paste it directly in the message area. If the picture is on your computer, then go to the picture and right click it, and select "open with", and open it with Internet Explorer. Again, once opened in internet explorer you just right click copy it then paste into your email. It's quite simple actually. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 9:28 AM, Quinn, Patrick < Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: > G'day > > Can someone tell me in words of less than one syllable how to paste a > photo to the body of an email. > > I use Microsoft Office Outlook and clicked on insert, clicked on picture > and clicked "From File". > > Looks great on my screen and then sent a test to another address. Opened > at the other address and it's not there. I think the computer views it > as a nasty and automatically deleted it. > > HELP! > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Feb 18 18:54:03 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:54:03 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD2A@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day Alan No sorry it still won't work. The image is on my computer and I clicked on it. Opened it with Internet Explorer and copied and paste into the email. Looks wonderful on my screen. Then sent it to my home address and the photo is deleted so that I open the message and all I get is a blank message. Back to the key board. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, 19 February 2009 12:40 PM To: Quinn, Patrick Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Computer Question Patrick - Okay, one syllables, here we go... If the picture you want to put in your email is on a web page, then you can simply select the picture with your cursor (left button) while looking at it in IE (or firefox) and then right button it and select "copy." Then go to your new Outlook message and paste it directly in the message area. If the picture is on your computer, then go to the picture and right click it, and select "open with", and open it with Internet Explorer. Again, once opened in internet explorer you just right click copy it then paste into your email. It's quite simple actually. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 9:28 AM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: G'day Can someone tell me in words of less than one syllable how to paste a photo to the body of an email. I use Microsoft Office Outlook and clicked on insert, clicked on picture and clicked "From File". Looks great on my screen and then sent a test to another address. Opened at the other address and it's not there. I think the computer views it as a nasty and automatically deleted it. HELP! Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 19:03:55 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:03:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD2A@itfexch5.central.det.win> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD2A@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <471534970902181803g139134bei1ac005772545727c@mail.gmail.com> (*Resending because of Bounce*) Sorry Mates, The problem isn't with Patrick or his Outlook, it's with the mail servers inbetween. To keep a long nerdy answer short you cannot directly embed binary data in an email, it must be attached. The only exclusion to this is Microsoft Exchange servers, which will allow it because of a proprietary mechanism DIME (Think Whitworth socket). If you want to send an image to another person you should always snd it as an attachment to the email. And before people reply and tell me that they get emails with images in them all the time, they are not images, but HTML (the stuff that web pags are made from, which is text) that refers to imags out on the internet. Cheers! Jody From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 19:12:36 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 10:12:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <471534970902181802o21506007x4c90006040f33984@mail.gmail.com> References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD2A@itfexch5.central.det.win> <471534970902181802o21506007x4c90006040f33984@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Maybe the problem is you didn't send the message to Bill Gates telling him to shove this Outlook email up his ... oh.... never mind. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Jody Kerr wrote: > Sorry Mates, > > The problem isn't with Patrick or his Outlook, it's with the mail > servers inbetween. To keep a long nerdy answer short you cannot > directly embed binary data in an email, it must be attached. The only > exclusion to this is Microsoft Exchange servers, which will allow it > because of a proprietary mechanism DIME (Think Whitworth socket). > > If you want to send an image to another person you should always snd > it as an attachment to the email. > > And before people reply and tell me that they get emails with images > in them all the time, they are not images, but HTML (the stuff that > web pags are made from, which is text) that refers to imags out on the > internet. > > Cheers! > Jody From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au Wed Feb 18 20:09:56 2009 From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 14:09:56 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD2A@itfexch5.central.det.win> <471534970902181802o21506007x4c90006040f33984@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD33@itfexch5.central.det.win> G'day I have been a member of this list for quite some years and even now find myself very pleasantly surprised by the generosity of those who are on it. In case you are thinking that it has something to do with the list - no it's not. It's got everything to do with the marque of Austin-Healey and those who find that through time have become passionate about them. Far more I find than other marques. I am at my office and after I sent out my call for help I received a barrage of helpful emails. Thanks you to everyone. Then as I was about to go out for lunch, my phone goes. No not a business call, but Ed Driver from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan calling a fellow Austin-Healey owner in Sydney, Australia to discuss computer problems. Sure we discussed other things and in the end I sent him the photo and he sent it back - embedded in the email. Not as an attachment but actually in the body that will allow me to add text above and below. In case you thinking that it's some uncouth image of a scantily clad chassis, not it's not. It's a D-type Jaguar circulating the Bathurst circuit and I am putting together emails to prospective advertisers in the race programme for the next meeting. So I type this over my take-away sweet and sour pork, beef and black bean, satay chicken and rice I will say that in my 37 years of Austin-Healey ownership I have found everyone to be helpful and more important friendly. That definitely goes to those on this list. Ed called me again to make sure it came through. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 18 20:14:48 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:14:48 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C7035CDD26@itfexch5.central.det.win> Message-ID: <> Yes, Patrick. Ooops, two (2) words. Actually it will take more than ONE but I WILL 'walk you thru it'. Write me direct and I WILL explain PROPERLY (which NO ONE else has done anywhere NEAR correctly). Ed From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 18 20:16:24 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:16:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: <471534970902181733x2661dc49j7b7b52dc3a79d32@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <> You 'might' mention that clue HAS to be in a open NEW mail waiting to be sent, Jody. From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 18 20:18:29 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:18:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Computer Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Won't work Alan, if 'function' is DIS-abled in the page HTML! From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 18 20:25:41 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:25:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <1426208784.3112531235002954989.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <> STRANGER yet Bob, a Sprite cam is about TWO (2) pounds!!! HOW did a 100 4 banger cam GAIN 38 pounds?!?!?!?!? Enquiring minds REALLY need........... Anon From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 18 20:28:30 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:28:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> Should have said "flywheel" I know you guys know it, but you are just having too much fun to stop aren't you.... Greg From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 20:29:14 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:29:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: <1426208784.3112531235002954989.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: >>HOW did a 100 4 banger cam GAIN 38 pounds?!?!?!?!? > > Too many deserts, and not enough exercise. From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 18 20:42:36 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:42:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> Message-ID: <> Nah Greg, shirley you jest !!!! From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 20:50:08 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:50:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> Message-ID: He's not jesting, and stop calling him Shirley. On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 7:42 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > < having too much fun to stop aren't you....>> > > Nah Greg, shirley you jest !!!! > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Wed Feb 18 20:52:18 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 03:52:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Lightened flywheels Message-ID: The following only applies to 6 cylinder cars, of which I have some experiance, which all have flywheels that weigh 28-30 pounds. It's all realtive. Do you drive your prized and pampered Healey like an old woman, or do you enjoy spirited driving in a hot sexy sportscar? With the first scenario, you will never notice the difference if 4 or 5 pounsds are shaved off. You might notice some difference if 8 or 9 pounds are shaved - but, I suspect not much of a difference because you drive like an old woman. In the second case, you will appreciate the new found crispness in the acceration of your hot sexy sportscar. In the old days (when we "chopped" flywheels) , material was machined off the back side which only resulted in 3 or 4 pounds being removed. Today, we scallop out and around the pressure plate on the front side and can loose about 7 or 8 pounds. Taking a little more off the back side and you can get down close to 9+ pounds. The effect is the same as kicking that 200 pound person out of the passenger seat of your Healey and then doing some spirited driving. AND ENJOYING IT MUCH MORE. Just my 2 cents. Richard Mayor _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Feb 18 21:16:58 2009 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:16:58 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels One more time In-Reply-To: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> References: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> Message-ID: For the 100 folks, the original four flywheel does weigh in at 45 pounds. These are straight out of the dark ages and I'm fairly certain the part number is the same as the flywheel on the WW1 British battle tank. The 6 cylinder flywheels are close to 28 pounds. You can shave 17 pounds as a bolt-on change. The pressure plate and clutch disc is about 16.5 pounds for all except the bigger 10 inch clutch which is about 17.5 pounds. Pretty much a wash if you are concerned with weight. As stated previously the real improvement is with the diaphragm BJ8 pressure plate. Make sure you use the correct release bearing if you change over. As mentioned earlier the swap doesn't impact the idle. I can get it down to 450-500 RPM and its steady although it is normally set at 800. Aloha Perry From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 21:30:06 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:30:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> References: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> Message-ID: <499CE04E.2090809@comcast.net> Slow news day. Greg Lemon wrote: > Should have said "flywheel" I know you guys know it, but you are just > having too much fun to stop aren't you.... > > Greg > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 21:52:31 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:52:31 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <499CE04E.2090809@comcast.net> References: <1D568B6000CE408DADE1E7151E46AC64@GregPC> <499CE04E.2090809@comcast.net> Message-ID: True, today they're only talking about spending 20 billion of your money to bail out our beloved car industry for doing such a crap job over the last 20 years. I'd like to get a couple billion for being incompetent, where do I sign up? Alan On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 12:30 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Slow news day. From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 21:55:17 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:55:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels One more time In-Reply-To: References: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> Message-ID: Has anyone put the BJ8 pressure plate on a BN1? I would assume it should be an easy switch, just keep the BN1 clutch disc and use the BJ8 Pressure plate. The clutch lever is mechanical, but adjustable. Would make the car much nicer to drive.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 12:16 PM, Healeyguy wrote: > For the 100 folks, the original four flywheel does weigh in at 45 pounds. > These are straight out of the dark ages and I'm fairly certain the part > number is the same as the flywheel on the WW1 British battle tank. The 6 > cylinder flywheels are close to 28 pounds. You can shave 17 pounds as a > bolt-on change. The pressure plate and clutch disc is about 16.5 pounds for > all except the bigger 10 inch clutch which is about 17.5 pounds. Pretty much > a wash if you are concerned with weight. As stated previously the real > improvement is with the diaphragm BJ8 pressure plate. Make sure you use the > correct release bearing if you change over. As mentioned earlier the swap > doesn't impact the idle. I can get it down to 450-500 RPM and its steady > although it is normally set at 800. > Aloha > Perry From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Wed Feb 18 22:13:49 2009 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:13:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: I recently installed a Bell SS system, front to back, on my 66MGB. It bolted up without any significant problems. I did it on the ground in a few hours. Maybe MG's are easier but I also purchased a Bell mild steel muffler system for my Healey last year and had no problems fitting it to my BN7. Ron From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Feb 18 22:21:01 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:21:01 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? Message-ID: Hi folks, Been away for awhile...so I took out the tranny. It was much lighter than feared once I started wrestling it. Unfortunately the problem engaging was not the shifter. I do not have the funds to do a full blown tranny repair right now so I may just buy and gather parts slowly. My Brit mechanic said it would be an ugly repair. 1st gear is toast. I suppose that is why it also makes so much noise in reverse. It needs a 1st gear and laygear. I am fearful of the laygear cost. Anyone have any estimates on repair for a side shift BN7 tranny? Core swaps? Also, any ideas on how to save money on parts? He says around $2k complete rebuild with labor with laygear if I can find the laygear. He says there may be an issue with buying the 1st gear by itself (Moss outer ring $283.95) and not buying the 1st gear assembly (Moss $535). He says some aftermarket parts dont fit and the gear may not fit the shaft well. Dunno. He said he thought laygear would be $500-$600 but from where should we buy? I don't really understand the tranny so speak like you are speaking to my 7 year old daughter. Please respond to ALL or include my swillis at insightbb.com so I get the message at an email I check more regularly. I hope you all are getting ready for warm Healey weather. Coming soon... Cheers, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 00:07:14 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:07:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499D0522.6040408@chello.nl> Mike, With the mods you already did it is best to fit the hotter cam as wel. Yes, you will be in the higher rev range, not only because of the camshaft but also because of the larger carbs and better flow, however it will not be that dramatic. Lightening the flywheel does not make to much sense for a street car but if you would, moderately lighten your flywheel, say max. 1-1,5kg. This will probably not do any damage to your gearbox/diff as the engine is not highly tuned. Also make sure that all ridges and gaskets between carbs/inlet manifold/cilinder head/exhaust manifold are smoothed out. If not all your porting and polishing may be in vain. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > Thanks to Doug I have the specs for the 100S cam which I am told is the same > as the 100M cam, but after reading some discussions on the list about cams > and flywheel lightening I am not sure what to do. My BN2 engine is not in > the car yet, but the short block is assembled with a standard Moss pistons > and a standard 100-4 cam profile. I still have time to change the cam as I > have a spare to get re-profiled. I want a streetable car with a little more > get up and go than stock. I will be using the larger carbs of the Lemans > version. I am also getting the head ported and polished along with the > combustion chambers evened out in volume. My question is, with the 100S/M > cam, will I have to be in higher rpm ranges to get any benefit from the > upgrade? Also, using a lightened (and I don't know how much to lighted it > either) flywheel, am I turning this car into something which has to driven > hard to get the benfit while losing a nice idle? Will the lightened > flywheel beat up my transmission? That alone is a costly rebuild. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 00:15:52 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:15:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Michael, What will give in the water pump? Kees Oudesluijs Michael Salter schreef: > Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. I know from > experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs and one would > want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one before taking that > step. > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com > Sent: February 18, 2009 6:49 PM > To: Leonard Berkowitz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler > > I have heard that putting a chevy neck on the rad also to bring up the > pressure helps also. That being said I had my radiator recored with a > better core but did not change the neck, still low pressure. Have not > assembled the car yet so i cannot tell you if it works. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > >> My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. >> Since >> the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything >> to >> keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was >> the >> radiator rebuild. >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Thu Feb 19 00:55:16 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:55:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <499D0522.6040408@chello.nl> References: <499D0522.6040408@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, that certainly does not sound like very much weight to remove from the flywheel. Mike On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 11:07 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Mike, > With the mods you already did it is best to fit the hotter cam as wel. Yes, > you will be in the higher rev range, not only because of the camshaft but > also because of the larger carbs and better flow, however it will not be > that dramatic. > Lightening the flywheel does not make to much sense for a street car but if > you would, moderately lighten your flywheel, say max. 1-1,5kg. This will > probably not do any damage to your gearbox/diff as the engine is not highly > tuned. > Also make sure that all ridges and gaskets between carbs/inlet > manifold/cilinder head/exhaust manifold are smoothed out. If not all your > porting and polishing may be in vain. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > >> Thanks to Doug I have the specs for the 100S cam which I am told is the >> same >> as the 100M cam, but after reading some discussions on the list about cams >> and flywheel lightening I am not sure what to do. My BN2 engine is not in >> the car yet, but the short block is assembled with a standard Moss pistons >> and a standard 100-4 cam profile. I still have time to change the cam as >> I >> have a spare to get re-profiled. I want a streetable car with a little >> more >> get up and go than stock. I will be using the larger carbs of the Lemans >> version. I am also getting the head ported and polished along with the >> combustion chambers evened out in volume. My question is, with the 100S/M >> cam, will I have to be in higher rpm ranges to get any benefit from the >> upgrade? Also, using a lightened (and I don't know how much to lighted it >> either) flywheel, am I turning this car into something which has to driven >> hard to get the benfit while losing a nice idle? Will the lightened >> flywheel beat up my transmission? That alone is a costly rebuild. >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 01:17:59 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 16:17:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Message-ID: Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it fails. FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all (open system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest weather - radiator is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water with wetter. Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it should be a last resort. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 3:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Michael, > What will give in the water pump? > Kees Oudesluijs > > Michael Salter schreef: > >> Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. I know from >> experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs and one >> would >> want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one before taking >> that >> step. >> >> Michael Salter >> 100 (1953) #174 >> AHX12 (1953) >> Bugeye (1961) >> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 03:49:55 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:49:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499D3953.5070000@chello.nl> So the carbon seal gets lifted from the impellor. That is odd as it should easily hold more than 1bar as is the case in most cars of the era. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it > fails. > > FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all > (open system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest > weather - radiator is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water > with wetter. Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it > should be a last resort. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 3:15 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Michael, > What will give in the water pump? > Kees Oudesluijs > > Michael Salter schreef: > > Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. > I know from > experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs > and one would > want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one > before taking that > step. > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 From 57healey at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 05:47:02 2009 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:47:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <743b1e2f0902190447s458b724dte03352daffe83643@mail.gmail.com> You might consider the 5 speed conversion as a cheaper alternative. I seem to remember that a Smitty kit plus transmission was about half what rebuilding the original was. I am sure that one of the several that have done the conversion will share costs as I could be way off. Patton On 2/18/09, scott willis wrote: > Hi folks, > Been away for awhile...so I took out the tranny. It was much lighter than > feared once I started wrestling it. Unfortunately the problem engaging was > not > the shifter. I do not have the funds to do a full blown tranny repair right > now so I may just buy and gather parts slowly. > > My Brit mechanic said it would be an ugly repair. 1st gear is toast. I > suppose > that is why it also makes so much noise in reverse. It needs a 1st gear and > laygear. I am fearful of the laygear cost. Anyone have any estimates on > repair > for a side shift BN7 tranny? Core swaps? Also, any ideas on how to save > money > on parts? > > He says around $2k complete rebuild with labor with laygear if I can find > the > laygear. He says there may be an issue with buying the 1st gear by itself > (Moss outer ring $283.95) and not buying the 1st gear assembly (Moss $535). > He > says some aftermarket parts dont fit and the gear may not fit the shaft > well. > Dunno. He said he thought laygear would be $500-$600 but from where should > we > buy? > > I don't really understand the tranny so speak like you are speaking to my 7 > year old daughter. Please respond to ALL or include my swillis at insightbb.com > so I get the message at an email I check more regularly. > > I hope you all are getting ready for warm Healey weather. Coming soon... > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life together at home, work, or on the > go. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as 57healey at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Feb 19 05:58:33 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 07:58:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Message-ID: Alan is correct. The seal in the water pump is a carbon ring under spring pressure against a cast iron surface. If the spring is too strong the seal wears quickly so the design is such that there is sufficient pressure to resist the design pressure of the system and little more. Modern pumps use ceramic seals an can therefore withstand higher spring pressures. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] Sent: February 19, 2009 2:16 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler Michael, What will give in the water pump? Kees Oudesluijs Michael Salter schreef: > Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. I know from > experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs and one would > want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one before taking that > step. > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com > Sent: February 18, 2009 6:49 PM > To: Leonard Berkowitz > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler > > I have heard that putting a chevy neck on the rad also to bring up the > pressure helps also. That being said I had my radiator recored with a > better core but did not change the neck, still low pressure. Have not > assembled the car yet so i cannot tell you if it works. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > >> My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. >> Since >> the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything >> to >> keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was >> the >> radiator rebuild. From dwhite4949 at wowway.com Thu Feb 19 06:22:17 2009 From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:22:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <499D5D09.7060402@wowway.com> I installed a Bell SS "big bore" exhaust system on my BN7 and everything is beautiful from the down pipes to the sound that comes out the rear end. Dan White 1962 BN7 Mk II From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 19 06:46:44 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 05:46:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> Doesn't pressurization just raise the boiling point--something like a couple degrees F per PSI (i.e., it doesn't help the system run cooler, necessarily)? Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it fails. > > FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all (open > system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest weather - radiator > is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water with wetter. > Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it should be a last > resort. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 07:32:38 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 15:32:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> Message-ID: <499D6D86.6070903@chello.nl> Just takes a higher temperature to have the coolant boiling and you can run your engine a tad hotter, which makes it more efficient (in theory) and keeps the engine cleaner as less water from condensation will get into the oil. I usually have my engines on a hotter thermostat than standard, on old machines 92:C, but then the ambient temperature is barely ever over 30:C overhere. If the cooling capacity of the system is known to be insufficient (e.g. in hot climates) one should lower this considerably to create more time for warning that something is going amiss. In Britain and parts of Continental Europe there used to be summer and winter thermostats. Kees Oudesluijs NL Bob Spidell schreef: > Doesn't pressurization just raise the boiling point--something like a > couple degrees F per PSI (i.e., it doesn't help the system run cooler, > necessarily)? > > > Bob From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 07:38:03 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 15:38:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499D6ECB.2030003@chello.nl> However there are plenty of cars with waterpumps fitted with a carbon seal that run on about 1bar (around 12psi I think), e.g. the Lotus 907 engine or the old slant four Vauxhall, several Sunbeams, Renaults, Peugeots etc. I suppose they increased the surface to keep the pressure similar? Kees Oudesluijs Michael Salter schreef: > Alan is correct. The seal in the water pump is a carbon ring under spring > pressure against a cast iron surface. If the spring is too strong the seal > wears quickly so the design is such that there is sufficient pressure to > resist the design pressure of the system and little more. > Modern pumps use ceramic seals an can therefore withstand higher spring > pressures. > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] > Sent: February 19, 2009 2:16 AM > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler > > Michael, > What will give in the water pump? > Kees Oudesluijs > > Michael Salter schreef: > >> Be very careful about increasing the cooling system pressure. I know from >> experience that the 4 cylinder water pump will not take 12 lbs and one >> > would > >> want to check the maximum pressure of the 6 cylinder one before taking >> > that > >> step. >> >> Michael Salter >> 100 (1953) #174 >> AHX12 (1953) >> Bugeye (1961) >> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > >> On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com >> Sent: February 18, 2009 6:49 PM >> To: Leonard Berkowitz >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas cooler >> >> I have heard that putting a chevy neck on the rad also to bring up the >> pressure helps also. That being said I had my radiator recored with a >> better core but did not change the neck, still low pressure. Have not >> assembled the car yet so i cannot tell you if it works. >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> >> On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Leonard Berkowitz >> wrote: >> >> >> >>> My Healey has the original water pump a rebuilt engine and stock fan. >>> Since >>> the upgrade of the radiator it does not over heat. I had tried everything >>> to >>> keep my little love cool but the only thing that has been successful was >>> the >>> radiator rebuild. From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 08:02:46 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:02:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> Message-ID: Actually it does help move heat... It reduces surface boiling on the head allowing more heat transfer - car runs hotter but your head temp may actually be cooler. This is most important for high performance aluminum motors..... On 2/19/09, Bob Spidell wrote: > Doesn't pressurization just raise the boiling point--something like a > couple degrees F per PSI (i.e., it doesn't help the system run cooler, > necessarily)? > > > Bob > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it >> fails. >> >> FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all (open >> system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest weather - >> radiator >> is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water with wetter. >> Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it should be a last >> resort. >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - > Henry Ford > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Feb 19 08:19:48 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 09:19:48 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited Message-ID: <7E13C1CA40CE4ABC8D9E86A861823F7A@DANSTROM> I bought the SS Bell and we slapped it on in one afternoon. One of the rear hanger brackets had to be tweaked but otherwise fits perfect and very quiet. Expensive but of quality. Seems like we come up against this same issue time and time again. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 5:11 PM To: 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited I will post them with the caveat that I bought the same system for my BN6 and everything fit perfectly AND, my BN6 is a mutt with an engine out of a BT7 and a center shift tranny. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:02 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited Hi guys. Sometime back I asked the list if anyone had discovered a stainless exhaust system that fit with a minimum of problems. The consensus was that Falcon Systems appeared to have their quality control issues straightened out. So I ordered a system From a Moss distributor. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 08:28:33 2009 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 07:28:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flywheels One more time In-Reply-To: References: <54D61D4E76A64F6F8C274D569ABD07B2@GregPC> Message-ID: <751d05480902190728x6e20a1b9of72c62a19957f5e6@mail.gmail.com> Alan, I talked to Denis Welch and several others years ago about doing this and was told that unfortunately it will not work with the original 3 speed transmission. The BJ8 pressure plate will foul on the smaller 3 speed bell housing and so much has to be cut away as to make it unpractical. The conversion works just fine with the BN2 and its 4 speed tranny. Cheers, Curt '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Cooper S On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 8:55 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Has anyone put the BJ8 pressure plate on a BN1? I would assume it should > be > an easy switch, just keep the BN1 clutch disc and use the BJ8 Pressure > plate. The clutch lever is mechanical, but adjustable. > > Would make the car much nicer to drive.... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 12:16 PM, Healeyguy wrote: > > > For the 100 folks, the original four flywheel does weigh in at 45 pounds. > > These are straight out of the dark ages and I'm fairly certain the part > > number is the same as the flywheel on the WW1 British battle tank. The 6 > > cylinder flywheels are close to 28 pounds. You can shave 17 pounds as a > > bolt-on change. The pressure plate and clutch disc is about 16.5 pounds > for > > all except the bigger 10 inch clutch which is about 17.5 pounds. Pretty > much > > a wash if you are concerned with weight. As stated previously the real > > improvement is with the diaphragm BJ8 pressure plate. Make sure you use > the > > correct release bearing if you change over. As mentioned earlier the > swap > > doesn't impact the idle. I can get it down to 450-500 RPM and its steady > > although it is normally set at 800. > > Aloha > > Perry > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Feb 19 09:11:20 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:11:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? Message-ID: <25DF529E82D04C71B1A1C987CCB159E7@ophrdc.org> > Almost all these gearboxes with many miles on them will need 1st gear, > reverse gear and the laygear (with layshaft) that meshes with them. Of > course new synchros, bearings, seals and gaskets are a given. > > I have dealt with Bob Yule at Autofarm > http://www.autofarm.net/autofarm/home.aspx for these parts a number of > times. Bob tries to keep these items in stock. In fact I ordered all these > exact parts for a BN2 gearbox only last week. Items include all bearings, > needle rollers, baulk (synchro) rings, exchange laygear, new 1st gear > (outer only, and have never had a problem fitting to original sliding hub > assembly), lay shaft, reverse gear, seals, and gasket set. He had > everything in stock on his shelves but the 1st gear outer, and it's > arriving in a week! > > It's worth noting here that the exchange laygears we get from Autofarm > have worked out very well over the years with many thousands of miles > being experienced without problems. Returning the old core cuts the cost > in half. > > There is no good reason to sideline a 4 speed Healey gearbox when all > these parts are reasonably available. > > Now if we could only get the same parts for the BN1 gearbox....... > > Rich Chrysler Scott Willis wrote: I do not have the funds to do a full blown tranny repair >> right >> now so I may just buy and gather parts slowly. 1st gear is toast. I suppose that is why it also makes so much noise in reverse. It needs a 1st gear >> and >> laygear. I am fearful of the laygear cost. Anyone have any estimates on >> repair >> for a side shift BN7 tranny? Core swaps? Also, any ideas on how to save >> money >> on parts? >> >> He says around $2k complete rebuild with labor with laygear if I can find >> the >> laygear. He says there may be an issue with buying the 1st gear by itself >> (Moss outer ring $283.95) and not buying the 1st gear assembly (Moss >> $535). He >> says some aftermarket parts dont fit and the gear may not fit the shaft >> well. >> Dunno. He said he thought laygear would be $500-$600 but from where >> should we >> buy? From dwhite4949 at wowway.com Thu Feb 19 09:30:01 2009 From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:30:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited In-Reply-To: <499D5D09.7060402@wowway.com> References: <1F8ADDC1-B5BB-4E32-8FE6-76840D13E8C1@ntelos.net> <499D5D09.7060402@wowway.com> Message-ID: <499D8909.6000204@wowway.com> Bob- I got the system from A H Spares. Regards, Dan Hi Dan, Where did you get your system? Thanks, Bob Daniel and Diane White wrote: > I installed a Bell SS "big bore" exhaust system on my BN7 and > everything is beautiful from the down pipes to the sound that comes > out the rear end. > Dan White > 1962 BN7 Mk II From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 10:35:33 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 18:35:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> <499D62C4.5080306@comcast.net> Message-ID: <499D9865.3010708@chello.nl> Sounds very plausible to me. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Actually it does help move heat... It reduces surface boiling on the > head allowing more heat transfer - car runs hotter but your head temp > may actually be cooler. > > This is most important for high performance aluminum motors..... > > > On 2/19/09, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Doesn't pressurization just raise the boiling point--something like a >> couple degrees F per PSI (i.e., it doesn't help the system run cooler, >> necessarily)? >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> Alan Seigrist wrote: >> >>> Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it >>> fails. >>> >>> FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all (open >>> system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest weather - >>> radiator >>> is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water with wetter. >>> Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it should be a last >>> resort. >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> '52 A90 >>> '53 BN1 >>> '64 BJ8 >>> >>> >>> >>> >> -- >> ******************************************************************* >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - >> Henry Ford >> ******************************************************************* >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From quenty at ntelos.net Thu Feb 19 11:43:37 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:43:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems Message-ID: Hello John, Here are the pictures. I went with the Falcon system primarily because it was the lists opinion that Falcon had its quality problems straightened out. I ordered this system on 2/4/08. Perhaps it had been laying around for a while. I sent Falcon an Email explaining the problem before I changed anything. They did not respond. Of the folks that have commented on the list so far. there have been four good Bell systems, two bad Falcon. One was a minor (Seigrist) and the other sounds like mine. One happy Falcon camper-- You. I have to say now that the the system is on It looks great and sounds even better. The pictures tell the story. Thanks, Dave # 1 Flange is welded on exhaust pipe crooked #2 Bracket stud is about 1" off center #3 and about 1/2" too far aft. #4 Pipe interference #5 pipe interference #8 Falcon bracket location #9 My homemade bracket #7 Rear hanger W/ 1/2" spacers #10 Corrected pipe #6 about 1" cut off of outside pipe From bj8Healey at msn.com Thu Feb 19 13:58:38 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:58:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: FW: Quality parts... Stainless Exhaust Revisited Message-ID: I too bought a Bell Stainless System for my BJ8. I had to tweak the exit pipes from the rear silencer but other than that it was perfect and I am happy with my choice. jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Thu Feb 19 14:36:34 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:36:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? Message-ID: I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis Welch 15 pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The only caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait longer for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and supposedly idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 19 15:27:51 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:27:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down should be faster as well. Kees Oudesluijs NL rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis Welch 15 > pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be > considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The only > caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait longer > for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and supposedly > idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Feb 19 16:22:18 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 18:22:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: That was always my understanding too - less rotating mass should translate to more responsiveness and revs should rise and fall faster. I am finding this thread interesting as I am contemplating a lighter flywheel when I rebuild the engine in my BT7 down the road (well, I hope not literally, I really hope to do it in the garage). Mirek BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" To: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 5:27 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? > This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down should be > faster as well. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: >> I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis Welch >> 15 >> pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be >> considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The only >> caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait >> longer >> for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and >> supposedly >> idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From fandy at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 19 18:42:16 2009 From: fandy at sbcglobal.net (Fred Anderson) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 19:42:16 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: test From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Thu Feb 19 18:46:21 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:46:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: I said the same ting to David, that I thought it would drop rpm faster because of less rotational mass. Granted, he has a 6 cylinder car, but he swears that is what happens with his car. Mike On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down should be > faster as well. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > >> I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis Welch >> 15 >> pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be >> considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The only >> caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait >> longer >> for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and >> supposedly >> idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! >> Mike MacLean >> 56 BN2 >> 60 AN5 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 19:07:45 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:07:45 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: All I have to say is using your brass synchros to spin up your big fat Austin motor & rotating mass on a downshift is not a very smart way to drive a Healey. Better to just use your brakes and change pads a little more often. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 9:46 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > I said the same ting to David, that I thought it would drop rpm faster > because of less rotational mass. Granted, he has a 6 cylinder car, but he > swears that is what happens with his car. > Mike > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > > This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down should be > > faster as well. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > NL > > > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > > > >> I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis Welch > >> 15 > >> pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be > >> considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The only > >> caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait > >> longer > >> for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and > >> supposedly > >> idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! > >> Mike MacLean > >> 56 BN2 > >> 60 AN5 > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > >> > >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Feb 19 19:21:52 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:21:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: ... or double clutch and match the engine revs to the newly selected gear ratio with grace, elegance and skill (thus minimizing wear on the synchro rings). Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? > All I have to say is using your brass synchros to spin up your big fat > Austin motor & rotating mass on a downshift is not a very smart way to > drive > a Healey. Better to just use your brakes and change pads a little more > often. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 9:46 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com < > rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: > >> I said the same ting to David, that I thought it would drop rpm faster >> because of less rotational mass. Granted, he has a 6 cylinder car, but >> he >> swears that is what happens with his car. >> Mike >> >> On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> >> > This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down should >> > be >> > faster as well. >> > Kees Oudesluijs >> > NL >> > >> > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: >> > >> >> I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a Dennis >> >> Welch >> >> 15 >> >> pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also to be >> >> considered. According to David, the difference is startling. The >> >> only >> >> caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to wait >> >> longer >> >> for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and >> >> supposedly >> >> idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> 56 BN2 >> >> 60 AN5 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 19 19:38:53 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:38:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <<... or double clutch and match the engine revs to the newly selected gear ratio with grace, elegance and skill (thus minimizing wear on the synchro rings).>> And just a 'tad' of 'talent' (but easily learned) Mirek (and you are 1000% CORRECT) !! Ed From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Thu Feb 19 21:17:55 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:17:55 EST Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? Message-ID: OK, let me add some definitive input. I have the Denis Welch flywheel installed in my BN2. I also have his aluminum head and 100M cam and the rest of the 100M set up. I also have a BJ 8 clutch set up. I have found NO need to shift more slowly. My car is extremely responsive up and down the RPM range and it will run circles around most 3000's. Sorry to Big Healey Owners. I have had several including Gold Concours. I'll take my little roadster. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO Ps...My car is basically a sister car to David Russell's (God Bless Him) and Michael Oritt's. So if you have seen theirs you have seen mine. Michael, how does yours run? I KNOW the answer. **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Thu Feb 19 21:24:49 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:24:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: O.K., which Dennis Welch flywheel. He sells a standard flywheel that has been lightened and a steel flywheel that is very light. You probably get the most from the aluminum head. I hear they really flow some air. Mike On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:17 PM, wrote: > OK, let me add some definitive input. I have the Denis Welch flywheel > installed in my BN2. I also have his aluminum head and 100M cam and the > rest of > the 100M set up. I also have a BJ 8 clutch set up. I have found NO need > to > shift more slowly. My car is extremely responsive up and down the RPM > range > and it will run circles around most 3000's. Sorry to Big Healey Owners. > I > have had several including Gold Concours. I'll take my little roadster. > > Cheers, > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > > Ps...My car is basically a sister car to David Russell's (God Bless Him) > and > Michael Oritt's. So if you have seen theirs you have seen mine. Michael, > how does yours run? I KNOW the answer. > **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. > ( > http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003 > ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Thu Feb 19 21:34:24 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:34:24 EST Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? Message-ID: It is the Steel Flywheel and yes, I do get a lot from the head. I forgot to mention I also have his Roller Rocker set. **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 21:42:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:42:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The only thing is you have to have the 5-speed or the 4speed sideshift box to make this work. If you have a BN1 you won't want to be doing these modifications until you replace the box - the old BN1 box will break with even the smallest amount of additional power. Don't ask how I know this! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 12:34 PM, wrote: > It is the Steel Flywheel and yes, I do get a lot from the head. I forgot > to > mention I also have his Roller Rocker set. From roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com Thu Feb 19 21:45:35 2009 From: roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com (Ronald Corazzo) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:45:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <756575.51300.qm@web30601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Another option is to put a Toyota transmission in the car. Fairly easy to find, cost reasonable, the transmission is almost indestructible and a smoother ride. Several Minn. Member have done this and are very happy. I have a side shift and considering doing this with my car --- On Wed, 2/18/09, scott willis wrote: > From: scott willis > Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? > To: healeys at autox.team.net, swillis at insightbb.com > Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 11:21 PM > Hi folks, > Been away for awhile...so I took out the tranny. It was > much lighter than > feared once I started wrestling it. Unfortunately the > problem engaging was not > the shifter. I do not have the funds to do a full blown > tranny repair right > now so I may just buy and gather parts slowly. > > My Brit mechanic said it would be an ugly repair. 1st gear > is toast. I suppose > that is why it also makes so much noise in reverse. It > needs a 1st gear and > laygear. I am fearful of the laygear cost. Anyone have any > estimates on repair > for a side shift BN7 tranny? Core swaps? Also, any ideas on > how to save money > on parts? > > He says around $2k complete rebuild with labor with laygear > if I can find the > laygear. He says there may be an issue with buying the 1st > gear by itself > (Moss outer ring $283.95) and not buying the 1st gear > assembly (Moss $535). He > says some aftermarket parts dont fit and the gear may not > fit the shaft well. > Dunno. He said he thought laygear would be $500-$600 but > from where should we > buy? > > I don't really understand the tranny so speak like you > are speaking to my 7 > year old daughter. Please respond to ALL or include my > swillis at insightbb.com > so I get the message at an email I check more regularly. > > I hope you all are getting ready for warm Healey weather. > Coming soon... > > Cheers, > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, > work, or on the go. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Feb 19 21:58:21 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:58:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: <9BD8492882C34CC1A3F26342AEC349EE@LeonardPCPC> Alan: Darn! I've been driving my Healey all wrong for 39 years? And that includes every other car I have ever owned, automatic transmissions included. Why didn't someone tell me this sooner? ;-) I've been bragging about only changing my brake pads on the BJ8 twice in 189,000 miles. I always believed that if I was in eminent danger of crashing into something, I'd rather have a useable set of brakes than try to rely on my transmission to stop the car. Silly me! But, then, I have not destroyed a single transmission - yet. However, the last time I changed the oil in the overdrive, I did find a piece of thrust washer in the screen of the drain plug. I'll have to look into that one of these days. Can't do it right now though. The driving season has just started. Tech session at BCS this Saturday. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 6:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Cam? > All I have to say is using your brass synchros to spin up your big fat > Austin motor & rotating mass on a downshift is not a very smart way to > drive > a Healey. Better to just use your brakes and change pads a little more > often. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Feb 20 02:47:54 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:47:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: <499DDCE7.4020508@chello.nl> Message-ID: <499E7C4A.80407@chello.nl> You can always double declutch and kick the loud pedal in between. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > All I have to say is using your brass synchros to spin up your big fat > Austin motor & rotating mass on a downshift is not a very smart way to > drive a Healey. Better to just use your brakes and change pads a > little more often. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 9:46 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com > > wrote: > > I said the same ting to David, that I thought it would drop rpm faster > because of less rotational mass. Granted, he has a 6 cylinder > car, but he > swears that is what happens with his car. > Mike > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > > This is odd, as the rpm will come down faster so shifting down > should be > > faster as well. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > NL > > > > rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > > > >> I just got off the phone with David Nock and he suggested a > Dennis Welch > >> 15 > >> pound flywheel. As an alternative, the 100-6 flywheel is also > to be > >> considered. According to David, the difference is startling. > The only > >> caveat is you have to re-learn downshifting because you have to > wait > >> longer > >> for the rpms to come down. The engine will accelerate faster and > >> supposedly > >> idle smoothly with the 15 pound flywheel. Wow! > >> Mike MacLean > >> 56 BN2 > >> 60 AN5 > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > >> > >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Feb 20 03:14:04 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:14:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? In-Reply-To: <756575.51300.qm@web30601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <756575.51300.qm@web30601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <499E826C.7090808@chello.nl> I suppose you mean the Toyota Celica box of the earlier series. These boxes are very sturdy but fairly hard to find these days as they were/are very popular for conversions of many cars. I think there is some Australian firm that imported these boxes from Japan and made new bellhousings or adaptor plates for various vehicles, e.g. Jensen Healey. A popular box these days is the 5-sp. one from the Ford Sierra (Europe). Some British firm is doing the mods I believe. Kees Oudesluijs Ronald Corazzo schreef: > Another option is to put a Toyota transmission in the car. Fairly easy to find, cost reasonable, the transmission is almost indestructible and a smoother ride. Several Minn. Member have done this and are very happy. I have a side shift and considering doing this with my car > > > --- On Wed, 2/18/09, scott willis wrote: From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 07:43:04 2009 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:43:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Message-ID: A man walks into a restaurant with a full-grown ostrich behind him. The waitress asks them for their orders. The man says, 'A hamburger, fries and a coke,' and turns to the ostrich, 'What's yours?' 'I'll have the same,' says the ostrich. A short time later the waitress returns with the order 'That will be $9.40 please,' and the man reaches into his pocket and pulls out the exact change for payment. The next day, the man and the ostrich come again and the man says, 'A hamburger, fries and a coke.' The ostrich says, 'I'll have the same.' Again the man reaches into his pocket and pays with exact change. This becomes routine until the two enter again. 'The usual?' asks the w aitress. 'No, this is Friday night, so I will have a steak, baked potato and a salad,' says the man. 'Same,' says the ostrich. Shortly the waitress brings the order and says, 'That will be $32.62.' Once again the man pulls the exact change out of his pocket and places it on the table. The waitress cannot hold back her curiosity any longer. 'Excuse me, sir. How do you manage to always come up with the exact change in your pocket every time?' 'Well,' says the man, 'several years ago I was cleaning the attic and found an old lamp. When I rubbed it, a Genie appeared and offered me two wishes. My first wish was that if I ever had to pay for anything, I would just put my hand in my pocket and the right amount of money would always be there.' 'That's brilliant!' says the waitress. 'Most people would ask for a million dollars or something, but you'll always be as rich as you want for as long as you live!' 'That's right. Whether it's a gallon of milk or a Rolls Royce, the exact money is always there,' says the man.. The waitress asks, 'What's with the ostrich?' The man sighs, pauses and answers, 'My second wish was for a tall chick with a big butt and long legs who agrees with everything I say.' From don at anglesey.us Fri Feb 20 07:52:23 2009 From: don at anglesey.us (Don ) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 07:52:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Dave, Add another happy Falcon camper to the mix. I put mine on my BN4 in a couple of hours as well a couple of years back. I had to cut about half an inch off one of the tail pipes where it mated with the muffler for correct fit and used muffler compound to seal it up but other than that it fit like a glove. Blew fiberglass out the back for a month as well. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:44 AM To: John Sims; Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems Hello John, Here are the pictures. I went with the Falcon system primarily because it was the lists opinion that Falcon had its quality problems straightened out. I ordered this system on 2/4/08. Perhaps it had been laying around for a while. I sent Falcon an Email explaining the problem before I changed anything. They did not respond. Of the folks that have commented on the list so far. there have been four good Bell systems, two bad Falcon. One was a minor (Seigrist) and the other sounds like mine. One happy Falcon camper-- You. I have to say now that the the system is on It looks great and sounds even better. The pictures tell the story. Thanks, Dave From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Feb 20 07:50:19 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:50:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Texas cooler In-Reply-To: <499D3953.5070000@chello.nl> References: <499D0728.1060401@chello.nl> <499D3953.5070000@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees Not from the impeller but it is the seal that is lifted off the casting against the spring pressure. I think that you will find that very few British cars in the early 1950s had pressurised cooling systems. In the latter part of the 1950s many manufactures started to fit pressurised caps but only 4, 7 or 10 p.s.i. I have found one on Bedford Viva van at 13 p.s.i. in an AC catalogue but that specifically only applies when a special radiator is fitted. Regards >So the carbon seal gets lifted from the impellor. That is odd as it >should easily hold more than 1bar as is the case in most cars of the >era. >Kees Oudesluijs > >Alan Seigrist schreef: >> Nothing will give in the pump per se, it'll just leak water until it >>fails. >> >> FYI, the radiator in my A90 in Hong Kong is not pressurized at all >>(open system) - it actually keeps very cool even in the hottest >>weather - radiator is clean, block is backflushed annually, 90% water >>with wetter. Pressurizing the rad doesn't really get you there, it >>should be a last resort. >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 3:15 PM, Oudesluys >> wrote: >> >> Michael, >> What will give in the water pump? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> -- John Harper From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Fri Feb 20 08:11:39 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 15:11:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan I don't believe that you should dismiss the BN1 gearbox out of hand so easily. I agree that it will not stand up to the same amount of abuse as the BN2 on, (Morris) gearbox and it only has the type of synchromesh that needs to be used accordingly but there are many 100s out there with sound BN1 boxes. I am in danger of repeating something I have put on this list before but I acquired a gold seal A70 gearbox back in the early 1960s. I fitted this to an A70 with a BN1M engine. I also fitted the cross shaft and an A90 9" clutch at the same time. I drove this for about 50,000 miles often pulling a 1 ton load in a trailer made from the back end of an A70 pick-up. I had not problems with the gearbox but did, I admit, break a half shaft. About 15 years ago I converted the same gearbox with an overdrive and side shift but left the bottom gear un-blanked. The gearbox has now done over 25,000 miles in my BN1 Le Mans. My view is that if you have a BN1 gearbox that has been driven sensibly and not abused in it past it will be worth leaving the car as standard. Regards >The only thing is you have to have the 5-speed or the 4speed sideshift box >to make this work. If you have a BN1 you won't want to be doing these >modifications until you replace the box - the old BN1 box will break with >even the smallest amount of additional power. Don't ask how I know this! > >Alan > >'52 A90 >'53 BN1 >'64 BJ8 > > >On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 12:34 PM, wrote: > >> It is the Steel Flywheel and yes, I do get a lot from the head. I forgot >> to >> mention I also have his Roller Rocker set. >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >You are subscribed as ah at jharper.demon.co.uk > >http://www.team.net/archive > -- John Harper From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 20 08:15:10 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:15:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <013501c9936e$0646aaf0$12d400d0$@net> Ok - two of us have had installations that fit with no problems - my only delay in the installation was in that I started late in the afternoon so had to stop for a while to have my 4pm afternoon martini. Perhaps we were lucky. Regardless, there seems to be a problem with some or many of the pipes so I have posted David's photos and narrative on my site in the engine section of the Technical page. As with the others, they are in PDF format so you can download and print easily. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:52 AM To: 'David Schweninger'; 'John Sims'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems Dave, Add another happy Falcon camper to the mix. I put mine on my BN4 in a couple of hours as well a couple of years back. I had to cut about half an inch off one of the tail pipes where it mated with the muffler for correct fit and used muffler compound to seal it up but other than that it fit like a glove. Blew fiberglass out the back for a month as well. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:44 AM To: John Sims; Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Falcon Exhaust Problems From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri Feb 20 09:00:46 2009 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:00:46 EST Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies Message-ID: "Flying a Kite and get it right" A husband in his back yard is trying to fly a kite. He throws the kite up in the air. The wind catches it for a few seconds, then it comes crashing back down to earth. He tries this a few more times with no success. All the while, his wife is watching from the kitchen window, Muttering to herself how men need to be told how to do everything. She opens the window and yells to her husband, 'You need a piece of tail.' The man turns with a confused look on his face and says, 'Make up your mind. Last night, you told me to go fly a kite.' **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri Feb 20 09:10:03 2009 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:10:03 EST Subject: [Healeys] Another FRIDAY FUNNIES Message-ID: _The Old Cowboy Ya think you have lived to be 71 and know who you are...then along comes someone and blows it all to the dickens......._ (http://www.gen-e-rators.com/) _ An old cowboy sat down at the Starbucks and ordered a cup of coffee. As he sat sipping his coffee, a young woman sat down next to him. She turned to the cowboy and asked, 'Are you a real cowboy?' He replied, 'Well, I've spent my whole life breaking colts, working cows, going to rodeos, fixing fences, pulling calves, bailing hay, doctoring calves, cleaning my barn, fixing flats, working on tractors, and feeding my dogs, so I guess I am a cowboy.' She said, 'I'm a lesbian. I spend my whole day thinking a bout women. As soon as I get up in the morning, I think about women. When I shower, I think about women. When I watch TV, I think about women I even think about women when I eat. It seems that everything makes me think of women.' The two sat sipping in silence. A little while later, a man sat down on the other side of the old cowboy and asked, 'Are you a real cowboy?' He replied, 'I always thought I was, but I just found out that I'm a lesbian.'_ (http://www.gen-e-rators.com/) (http://www.gen-e-rators.com/) **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From ashbrook at mail.nih.gov Fri Feb 20 09:43:05 2009 From: ashbrook at mail.nih.gov (Ashbrook, Doug (NIH/CIT) [E]) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:43:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? Message-ID: I have seen several references to Healey 3000's with air conditioning. Was this a factory option or are these after-market additions? Thanks. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 20 09:48:37 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:48:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology Message-ID: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> This is absolutely astonishing! The first part is a short commercial but watch the whole clip. You will be amazed - especially restorers who can not find a good part from the usual suspects. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=944641 Thanks to Don Hambrick for forwarding it to me. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From wmseverin at charter.net Fri Feb 20 09:47:06 2009 From: wmseverin at charter.net (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:47:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale Message-ID: <009201c9937a$df072390$9d156ab0$@net> For sale: 1958 Austin Healey Sprite (titled as a 1959) 19,000 original mile car, unrestored, in time capsule condition. A true "survivor car". certainly one of the finest examples of an unrestored Bugeye in the world. "Survivor cars" are rapidly growing in value, and the rarity of this car's condition attests to its "investment quality". This car won the Road & Track Reserve Award at the 2006 Brian Redman International Challenge Concours in Elkhart Lake, WI. This car was also featured in the January issue of Road & Track, in Peter Egan's "Side Glances" column. Details on its documented history, condition and pictures at http://www.thicko.com/Walter.htm Car runs like a Swiss watch. Comes complete with original soft top and side curtains (with bag). Currently sits on Michelin X tires it last raced on in the early 60's. It is very drivable, or showable as it sits. $22,000 or best offer. Wm. Severin Thompson Team Thicko wsthompson at thicko.com From ahmg at aol.com Fri Feb 20 10:45:09 2009 From: ahmg at aol.com (ahmg at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:45:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? Message-ID: <132323623-1235151899-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1917521845-@bxe1019.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> In 1966 air conditioning was an approved BMC factory accessory as listed in the salesman guide and showroom material. This was a very rare option and not many were sold. I have just installed a factory system in my BJ8 with the help of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro NC. I have also assumed the duties of maintaing the registry that was started by Pat Yoas in the 80's. I have one remaing complete system NOS still in orignal boxes as well as all literature associated with the unit. They were actually produced by Coolaire of Miami, but they also had a plant in Luton England. According to Pat Y, who discussed the unit with Donald, told him that several were installed at the factory. Since each unit has its own serial number, we have record of cars installed with a/c. Recently we believe we uncovered the earliest production unit based on recorded serial numbers. I will be glad to discuss the units and my installation with you if you would like to contact me off list. Ken ------Original Message------ From: Ashbrook, Doug (NIH/CIT) [E] Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? Sent: Feb 20, 2009 11:43 AM I have seen several references to Healey 3000's with air conditioning. Was this a factory option or are these after-market additions? Thanks. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahmg at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my BlackBerry. wireless device From wsthompson at thicko.com Fri Feb 20 10:55:22 2009 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:55:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale Message-ID: <013001c99384$689b1590$39d140b0$@com> Subject: 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale For sale: 1958 Austin Healey Sprite (titled as a 1959) 19,000 original mile car, unrestored, in time capsule condition. A true "survivor car". certainly one of the finest examples of an unrestored Bugeye in the world. "Survivor cars" are rapidly growing in value, and the rarity of this car's condition attests to its "investment quality". This car won the Road & Track Reserve Award at the 2006 Brian Redman International Challenge Concours in Elkhart Lake, WI. This car was also featured in the January issue of Road & Track, in Peter Egan's "Side Glances" column. Details on its documented history, condition and pictures at http://www.thicko.com/Walter.htm Car runs like a Swiss watch. Comes complete with original soft top and side curtains (with bag). Currently sits on Michelin X tires it last raced on in the early 60's. It is very drivable, or showable as it sits. $22,000 or best offer. Wm. Severin Thompson Team Thicko wsthompson at thicko.com From shop at justbrits.com Fri Feb 20 11:15:32 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:15:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology In-Reply-To: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> Message-ID: <> H O L Y S M O K E S !!!!!! THANKS for sharing, John !!! Boggles the mind!! Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From wsthompson at thicko.com Fri Feb 20 11:54:44 2009 From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:54:44 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] [Thicko] 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale In-Reply-To: <013001c99384$689b1590$39d140b0$@com> References: <013001c99384$689b1590$39d140b0$@com> Message-ID: <015901c9938c$b3d958c0$1b8c0a40$@com> The Peter Egan article can be seen here. http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=26&article_id=7246 > -----Original Message----- > From: team-thicko-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:team-thicko- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 11:55 AM > To: 'Healey list Forum'; Vintage-Race at Autox.Team.Net; 'MG List'; > spridgets at autox.team.net; Team-Thicko at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Thicko] 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale > > Subject: 19,000 mile original Bugeye for sale > > > > For sale: 1958 Austin Healey Sprite (titled as a 1959) > > > > 19,000 original mile car, unrestored, in time capsule condition. A true > "survivor car". certainly one of the finest examples of an unrestored > Bugeye > in the world. > > > > "Survivor cars" are rapidly growing in value, and the rarity of this > car's > condition attests to its "investment quality". > > > > This car won the Road & Track Reserve Award at the 2006 Brian Redman > International Challenge Concours in Elkhart Lake, WI. > > > > This car was also featured in the January issue of Road & Track, in > Peter > Egan's "Side Glances" column. > > > > Details on its documented history, condition and pictures at > http://www.thicko.com/Walter.htm > > > > Car runs like a Swiss watch. Comes complete with original soft top and > side > curtains (with bag). Currently sits on Michelin X tires it last raced > on in > the early 60's. > > > > It is very drivable, or showable as it sits. > > > > $22,000 or best offer. > > > > Wm. Severin Thompson > > Team Thicko > > wsthompson at thicko.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 12:51:18 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:51:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology In-Reply-To: References: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> Message-ID: <471534970902201151l5f46df98ta5fb7ca8467817c2@mail.gmail.com> That has to be the COOLEST THING EVER. I'm scared to find ou how much it might actually cost. On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: > <> > > H O L Y > S M O K E S !!!!!! > > THANKS for sharing, John !!! > > Boggles the mind!! > > Ed > Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From brentshealey at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 12:52:32 2009 From: brentshealey at gmail.com (Brent Porter) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:52:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Prayers and thoughts please Message-ID: <995024c50902201152r33c77c07of5e2ddbf89d934a5@mail.gmail.com> Friends, I am sending this email on behalf of a fellow club member and his family. Please take a few minutes and keep them in your thoughts and prayers. This is the email that I received. Today at 12:30 Bruce was told that the transplant team had accepted a heart for him. The surgery should take place in the next 12 hours, we think, and be completed four to six hours later. They won't tell us where the donor heart is coming from, so we have no way of gauging a precise timetable. Please pray for: 7 Success for surgery 7 Wisdom for the doctors and medical staff 7 Stamina for both of us and family 7 Protection from infections and drug errors 7 And, especially for the family whose loved one lost his/her life and who generously offered a chance for a new life for Bruce God bless you all for your faithfulness and friendship. Love, Charlene and Bruce -- Brent Porter Indianapolis, IN From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 20 12:58:10 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:58:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology In-Reply-To: <471534970902201151l5f46df98ta5fb7ca8467817c2@mail.gmail.com> References: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> <471534970902201151l5f46df98ta5fb7ca8467817c2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <014301c99395$8f102560$ad307020$@net> What is amazing is that it does it in 3-D and pieces with multiple parts, come out of the machine with the multiple parts WORKING! And, it is AMERICAN made! (At least for now!) John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jody Kerr Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 2:51 PM To: Ed's Shop Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology That has to be the COOLEST THING EVER. I'm scared to find ou how much it might actually cost. On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: > <> > > H O L Y > S M O K E S !!!!!! > > THANKS for sharing, John !!! > > Boggles the mind!! > > Ed > Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 13:10:27 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:10:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology In-Reply-To: <014301c99395$8f102560$ad307020$@net> References: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> <471534970902201151l5f46df98ta5fb7ca8467817c2@mail.gmail.com> <014301c99395$8f102560$ad307020$@net> Message-ID: <471534970902201210g76a0ed40xf830dab445829b9c@mail.gmail.com> Yeah, that is amazing.... And the cool scondary through that i had was you coule immediately reproduce any/all plastic parts. I think about the number of NLA plastic bits on the jensen healey, the triumphs, mgs, etc. You could concievably set yourself up a nice little business reproducing those NLA plastic bits. Jody On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 12:58 PM, John Sims wrote: > What is amazing is that it does it in 3-D and pieces with multiple parts, > come out of the machine with the multiple parts WORKING! And, it is AMERICAN > made! (At least for now!) > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jody Kerr > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 2:51 PM > To: Ed's Shop > Cc: Healey Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology > > That has to be the COOLEST THING EVER. > > I'm scared to find ou how much it might actually cost. > > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: >> <> >> >> H O L Y >> S M O K E S !!!!!! >> >> THANKS for sharing, John !!! >> >> Boggles the mind!! >> >> Ed >> Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 13:17:24 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:17:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology In-Reply-To: <471534970902201210g76a0ed40xf830dab445829b9c@mail.gmail.com> References: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> <471534970902201151l5f46df98ta5fb7ca8467817c2@mail.gmail.com> <014301c99395$8f102560$ad307020$@net> <471534970902201210g76a0ed40xf830dab445829b9c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <471534970902201217o1537139bo95986e8f98c74092@mail.gmail.com> FYI, th scanner is ~3,000 usd. The printer they show is ~30,000 usd. They also offer a "personal" desktop version of the printer for ~14,000. And, the way technology goes the bits will just get cheaper over time. It's like a star trek replicator. Jody On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 1:10 PM, Jody Kerr wrote: > Yeah, that is amazing.... And the cool scondary through that i had was > you coule immediately reproduce any/all plastic parts. I think about > the number of NLA plastic bits on the jensen healey, the triumphs, > mgs, etc. You could concievably set yourself up a nice little business > reproducing those NLA plastic bits. > > Jody > > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 12:58 PM, John Sims wrote: >> What is amazing is that it does it in 3-D and pieces with multiple parts, >> come out of the machine with the multiple parts WORKING! And, it is AMERICAN >> made! (At least for now!) >> >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Jody Kerr >> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 2:51 PM >> To: Ed's Shop >> Cc: Healey Mail List >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology >> >> That has to be the COOLEST THING EVER. >> >> I'm scared to find ou how much it might actually cost. >> >> On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Ed's Shop wrote: >>> <> >>> >>> H O L Y >>> S M O K E S !!!!!! >>> >>> THANKS for sharing, John !!! >>> >>> Boggles the mind!! >>> >>> Ed >>> Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >> >> >> > > > > -- > http://www.theymightberacing.com/ > 1953 Studebaker Champion > 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) > http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! > > "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn > from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent > disinclination to do so." > --Douglas Adams > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Feb 20 15:14:55 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:14:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Modified Tappets Message-ID: Dennis Welch sells a modified tappet for the 100-4 where he machines a groove down the side from the bottom hole to the tappet face. He claims this gets more lubrication to the tappet face and the cam. Also, the tappet itself does not fill with oil resulting in less weight to shove up and down. Is this really a problem? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From satkinson7314 at charter.net Fri Feb 20 15:49:11 2009 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:49:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] front suspension assembly order Message-ID: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> What's the best method for re-assembling the front suspension, wishbones and wheels? I've mounted the shocks, wishbones and sway bar - but that's it for now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Simon From racarbon at optonline.net Fri Feb 20 16:24:44 2009 From: racarbon at optonline.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:24:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires Message-ID: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> Hi all, I would like some recommendations. Due to too many 4-wheel drifts, a year after I purchased my 64BJ8, I followed the recommendations of a BMC Rep and replaced my original Dunlop RS5s with 165r15 Pirelli Cinturatos. Since that time I have tried a few different brands, however, all were 165s. I am now considering the replacement of my '91-purchased Dunlops, but, after reviewing a number of archive entries and other on-line sites (http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/tech_talk/wheels_tires.htm), I am now in a quandary as to what the optimal size would be. It seems that a 175/80r15 provides the same circumference as the original Dunlop RS5s but are very difficult to find. Some recommend the 195/70r15s and warn they may rub on tight turns. Others feel the 185/80r15s are best and only 0.7" diameter larger the RSs. As it seems any of these sizes are not commonly available, I would like your thoughts on what would be the best, reasonably prices, size and brand available today for someone that enjoys, but does not push, his Healey. Also, based upon the fact that all are wider and larger-by-mass than the 165s I am used to, how is the steering and balancing affected. Thanks all, Ray Carbone 64BJ8 Phase 1 From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 16:31:25 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 07:31:25 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires In-Reply-To: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> Message-ID: Are you using your original rims or chromed ones that are wider? On 2/21/09, Ray Carbone wrote: > Hi all, > > I would like some recommendations. > > Due to too many 4-wheel drifts, a year after I purchased my 64BJ8, I > followed the recommendations of a BMC Rep and replaced my original Dunlop > RS5s with 165r15 Pirelli Cinturatos. Since that time I have tried a few > different brands, however, all were 165s. > > > > I am now considering the replacement of my '91-purchased Dunlops, but, after > reviewing a number of archive entries and other on-line sites > (http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/tech_talk/wheels_tires.htm), I am now > in a quandary as to what the optimal size would be. It seems that a > 175/80r15 provides the same circumference as the original Dunlop RS5s but > are very difficult to find. Some recommend the 195/70r15s and warn they may > rub on tight turns. Others feel the 185/80r15s are best and only 0.7" > diameter larger the RSs. > > > > As it seems any of these sizes are not commonly available, I would like your > thoughts on what would be the best, reasonably prices, size and brand > available today for someone that enjoys, but does not push, his Healey. > Also, based upon the fact that all are wider and larger-by-mass than the > 165s I am used to, how is the steering and balancing affected. > > > > Thanks all, > > > > Ray Carbone > > 64BJ8 Phase 1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From racarbon at optonline.net Fri Feb 20 16:51:09 2009 From: racarbon at optonline.net (Ray Carbone) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:51:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> Message-ID: <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> Hi Alan, Forgot to mention, I am running 72 spoke Chromes. Thanks for the question. All the best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Ray Carbone" ; Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:31 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires > Are you using your original rims or chromed ones that are wider? > > > On 2/21/09, Ray Carbone wrote: >> Hi all, >> >> I would like some recommendations. >> >> Due to too many 4-wheel drifts, a year after I purchased my 64BJ8, I >> followed the recommendations of a BMC Rep and replaced my original Dunlop >> RS5s with 165r15 Pirelli Cinturatos. Since that time I have tried a few >> different brands, however, all were 165s. >> >> >> >> I am now considering the replacement of my '91-purchased Dunlops, but, >> after >> reviewing a number of archive entries and other on-line sites >> (http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/tech_talk/wheels_tires.htm), I am >> now >> in a quandary as to what the optimal size would be. It seems that a >> 175/80r15 provides the same circumference as the original Dunlop RS5s but >> are very difficult to find. Some recommend the 195/70r15s and warn they >> may >> rub on tight turns. Others feel the 185/80r15s are best and only 0.7" >> diameter larger the RSs. >> >> >> >> As it seems any of these sizes are not commonly available, I would like >> your >> thoughts on what would be the best, reasonably prices, size and brand >> available today for someone that enjoys, but does not push, his Healey. >> Also, based upon the fact that all are wider and larger-by-mass than the >> 165s I am used to, how is the steering and balancing affected. >> >> >> >> Thanks all, >> >> >> >> Ray Carbone >> >> 64BJ8 Phase 1 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Feb 20 17:23:35 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:23:35 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? In-Reply-To: <499E826C.7090808@chello.nl> References: <756575.51300.qm@web30601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <499E826C.7090808@chello.nl> Message-ID: G'day The Australia company is called Dellow (www.dellowauto.com.au) who are not to be confused with the English manufacturer of trials and sports cars (http://www.dellowregister.co.uk/dellow_history.htm). It's Saturday morning here and I have 2 hours of sitting on the ride-on mower in front of me. The secret to avoid the tedium is to add a splash of castor oil to the petrol mix. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, 20 February 2009 9:14 PM To: roncorazzo02 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? I suppose you mean the Toyota Celica box of the earlier series. These boxes are very sturdy but fairly hard to find these days as they were/are very popular for conversions of many cars. I think there is some Australian firm that imported these boxes from Japan and made new bellhousings or adaptor plates for various vehicles, e.g. Jensen Healey. A popular box these days is the 5-sp. one from the Ford Sierra (Europe). Some British firm is doing the mods I believe. Kees Oudesluijs From Awgertoo at aol.com Fri Feb 20 18:26:07 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:26:07 EST Subject: [Healeys] What Cam? Message-ID: I agree--the engine is very responsive to throttle and rev-matching to facilitate downshifts is easy whether with a full double clutch or simply blipping the gas. The 100's overall feel versus that of my wife's BN7 is like a comparing a cutting pony to a draft horse. BTW a few days back I differed with someone's post that the BJ8 clutch will not clear the BN1 bellhousing. and reported that the BJ8 clutch fits my BN1 just fine, but did not state that I have a Smitty's setup. My apologies to that poster for taking issue with your statement which was no doubt correct. Best--Michael Oritt ------------------------------------------------------------ In a message dated 2/19/2009 11:18:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, GSFuqua1 at aol.com writes: I have the Denis Welch flywheel installed in my BN2. I also have his aluminum head and 100M cam and the rest of the 100M set up. I also have a BJ 8 clutch set up. I have found NO need to shift more slowly. My car is extremely responsive up and down the RPM range and it will run circles around most 3000's. Sorry to Big Healey Owners. I have had several including Gold Concours. I'll take my little roadster. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO Ps...My car is basically a sister car to David Russell's (God Bless Him) and Michael Oritt's. So if you have seen theirs you have seen mine. Michael, how does yours run? I KNOW the answer. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 18:52:43 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:52:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] front suspension assembly order In-Reply-To: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> References: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> Message-ID: <499F5E6B.4050209@comcast.net> I think people usually assemble the A-arms (wishbones) to the stub axle before fitting both to the chassis and shock arms. There is a specific procedure for setting the clearance between the A-arms and the end caps on the stub axle fulcrum (bottom of the king pin). Then, the springs go in. Wheels go on last ;) Bob Simon & Christine Atkinson wrote: > What's the best method for re-assembling the front suspension, wishbones and > wheels? I've mounted the shocks, wishbones and sway bar - but that's it for > now. > > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From shop at justbrits.com Fri Feb 20 21:25:22 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 22:25:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 60 BN7 Tranny Problem and cost?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> How about a tank of Racing Fuel, Patrick ????? A 'go fast' "ride-on mower". HALF (or one hour) the time!!!!!! Or would that be twice as long since YOU are up-side-down ???? Anon From rrengineer at dslextreme.com Fri Feb 20 22:06:58 2009 From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:06:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Piston Depth Message-ID: Can anyone tell me how close you can get the top of your pistons to the top of the block? The bare block I got for nothing that I built my motor from does not have the head on it yet. I am having the head ported and polished. During this process, the polisher asked me to take some modeling clay and fill one of the piston tops at TDC and skim the excess off the top. He said to wad up what would fit in this void and he would drop it in a measured beaker to see how many CCs it displaced to get an idea of how much he could grind out of the combustion chamber in the head. When I went to fill this area with clay I discovered that the piston sits approx. 1/16th of an ich ABOVE the top of the block. This is something I did not notice before because none of the pistons were at TDC before. I'm guessing that this will be a problem. I have no idea how much was cut from the block before I got it. All I had done was a clean-up cut during machining. Could the cheap Moss pistons be too tall? I'm thinking not, but maybe I'm gonna need some custon pistons for this engine. Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 21 02:15:50 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:15:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Piston Depth In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <499FC646.5030609@chello.nl> You could use custom pistons but you may be able to get away fitting a thicker head gasket, e.g. one made from red copper plate ca. 2mm thick, using your old gasket as a template and making sure that the gasket will not faul the pistons. Check that the all the channels/holes still line up between head /gasket/block. Heat the copper plate to cherry red and immerse in water first to make it softer. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > Can anyone tell me how close you can get the top of your pistons to the top > of the block? The bare block I got for nothing that I built my motor from > does not have the head on it yet. I am having the head ported and > polished. During this process, the polisher asked me to take some modeling > clay and fill one of the piston tops at TDC and skim the excess off the > top. He said to wad up what would fit in this void and he would drop it in > a measured beaker to see how many CCs it displaced to get an idea of how > much he could grind out of the combustion chamber in the head. When I went > to fill this area with clay I discovered that the piston sits approx. 1/16th > of an ich ABOVE the top of the block. This is something I did not notice > before because none of the pistons were at TDC before. I'm guessing that > this will be a problem. I have no idea how much was cut from the block > before I got it. All I had done was a clean-up cut during machining. Could > the cheap Moss pistons be too tall? I'm thinking not, but maybe I'm gonna > need some custon pistons for this engine. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 21 04:48:10 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 06:48:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] British Wire Wheel package deal References: <1764723081.589171234796215205.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000c01c9941a$45acc1a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Just curious. How does that break down approximately. Wheels, tires, shipping. Is that the only tire he will include. Those are usually a bit pricy for our needs. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 9:56 AM Subject: [Healeys] British Wire Wheel package deal > Hi List- > > Thought I'd share that i just bought a set of 4 Vredestein Sprint+ mounted > and balanced on painted 60 spoke Dayton's from British Wire Wheel. > Delivered, they only set me back $1100. Mark, at BWW, did me right, and he > is willing to extend the offer to anyone else interested. > > No financial interest other than helping the next guy save a buck. > > > Thomas Leavy > 451 Branchport Ave > Oceanport, NJ 07757 > 908-433-9322 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Feb 21 05:24:15 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:24:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires In-Reply-To: <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> Message-ID: Ray - Selecting tires for your car is a matter of personal taste. For me, the cars were styled around the Roadspeed ply tires, but that doesn't mean I think bigger is necessarily better looking. The thing with the old RS5s is they are tall, but very narrow. Modern radials aren't as tall, but have a fatter tread. This means looks-wise, a modern tire with a slightly smaller diameter looks about right to me, because the treads are usually fatter. So if you go for a 175/80 and esp 185/80, personally I think the tires look too baloonish on the car... but others will differ with me here. 185/80s might scrape your wheel wells. For your 72 spoke chromes, you'll have a 5" inch rim, this means the 165s will be a little too small for your car (they work better on the original 4.5" rims), 175 80s should be pretty good, or you can go with 185/70s which is the most common for a 15x5" rim. I run the 185/70R15 Vredesteins on my Healey, and they are excellent tires. But recently Longstone brought back the Pirelli CN36 in 185/70R15 ... at a pretty good price - I would buy the Pirellis if I hadn't just purchased the Vredesteins: http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15 As you can see on the page, the Pirelli is the closest in diameter to the old RS5s, and also has the fattest tread of all options. Note they also have a 180/80 by michelin (at twice the price!), but still either the Pirelli or the Vredestein would be the choice for me. The Pirelli is the one on the far left in this picture(I really like this tire!): http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/image/healey%20options.jpg http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/Austin-Healey.php Pirelli - great tires, great road holding... a little expensive but well worth it. By the way, I have ordered from Longstone before, their shipping rates are VERY reasonable, considering they are in the UK. I don't know how they ship so cheap! Cheers, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 7:51 AM, Ray Carbone wrote: > Hi Alan, > > Forgot to mention, I am running 72 spoke Chromes. Thanks for the question. > > > > All the best, > > > > Ray From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 21 06:49:04 2009 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:49:04 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] sorry, only a test Message-ID: <000401c9942b$28d17510$7a745f30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> 123456789 From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 21 07:09:27 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 06:09:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires In-Reply-To: References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> Message-ID: <49A00B17.4080000@comcast.net> Interesting that the Pirellis have a larger diameter, and much larger cross-section than the Michelins, Avons or Vredesteins. My 185/70R Vreds barely fit--I get a little rubbing on the bumper box bolts in the rear on hard cornering--but I run 6" rims. Bob Alan Seigrist wrote: > ... > > I run the 185/70R15 Vredesteins on my Healey, and they are excellent tires. > But recently Longstone brought back the Pirelli CN36 in 185/70R15 ... at a > pretty good price - I would buy the Pirellis if I hadn't just purchased the > Vredesteins: > > http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15 > ... > Cheers, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 7:51 AM, Ray Carbone wrote: > > >> Hi Alan, >> >> Forgot to mention, I am running 72 spoke Chromes. Thanks for the question. >> >> >> >> All the best, >> >> >> >> Ray >> ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From Warthodson at aol.com Sat Feb 21 07:57:49 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 09:57:49 EST Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Piston Depth Message-ID: Don't panic, yet. In general, It is not uncommon for a piston top to be above the surface of a block at top dead center. If necessary, it is probably possible to machine the tops of the pistons to lower the compression. It is necessary to take the head gasket thickness into account when figuring the compression ratio. Sorry, but I can't address the 100 engine specifically. Gary In a message dated 2/21/2009 3:24:50 A.M. Central Standard Time, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: You could use custom pistons but you may be able to get away fitting a thicker head gasket, e.g. one made from red copper plate ca. 2mm thick, using your old gasket as a template and making sure that the gasket will not faul the pistons. Check that the all the channels/holes still line up between head /gasket/block. Heat the copper plate to cherry red and immerse in water first to make it softer. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > Can anyone tell me how close you can get the top of your pistons to the top > of the block? The bare block I got for nothing that I built my motor from > does not have the head on it yet. I am having the head ported and > polished. During this process, the polisher asked me to take some modeling > clay and fill one of the piston tops at TDC and skim the excess off the > top. He said to wad up what would fit in this void and he would drop it in > a measured beaker to see how many CCs it displaced to get an idea of how > much he could grind out of the combustion chamber in the head. When I went > to fill this area with clay I discovered that the piston sits approx. 1/16th > of an ich ABOVE the top of the block. This is something I did not notice > before because none of the pistons were at TDC before. I'm guessing that > this will be a problem. I have no idea how much was cut from the block > before I got it. All I had done was a clean-up cut during machining. Could > the cheap Moss pistons be too tall? I'm thinking not, but maybe I'm gonna > need some custon pistons for this engine. > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as warthodson at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From Jwhlyadv at aol.com Sat Feb 21 08:04:39 2009 From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:04:39 EST Subject: [Healeys] SpringThing 2009 Message-ID: SpringThing 2009 Back to the Bluegrass! Join us May 14-17 SpringThing 2009 takes you and your Healey back to the Bluegrass. Our exciting new format that allows you to tour more of the beauty that is Kentucky returns for a second year. And webll be sure to include the special behind-the-scenes access to some of the statebs legendary locations youbve come to expect. As the signature event of the Bluegrass Club, SpringThing 2009 promises the best of Bluegrass country along with familiar friends and new comrades. Celebrate the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the 3000 and join us for an exciting adventure in the heart of the Bluegrass. Louisville will serve as the SpringThing 2009 Paddock on Thursday and Friday with plenty of big town culture and amenities without all the big town hassle. On Saturday webll gallop off into horse country and enjoy a relaxing cruise to our next location as we continue our VIP access to the bluegrass. Trust us, youbve never seen Kentucky like this! Put your horsepower to the test as we take you back to the Bluegrass! On Friday we set out for Millionairebs Row at historic Churchill Downs. Come experience the majesty of the Downs in the comfort of the Row with a full buffet and special parking. The Kentucky Horse Park, host of the 2010 FEI World Equestrian Games, will provide the venue for our banquet. Included in your banquet fee is admission and VIP tours, including a hay ride, at the Horse Park. Upon receiving your Registration you will be sent a packet of information regarding hotel reservations. Please note the hotel costs: Night 1&2: $72 Night 3: $80 Join us May 14-17! Registration form attached or visit _http://www.bluegrassclub.com/Registration.pdf_ (http://www.bluegrassclub.com/Registration.pdf) **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Registration.pdf] From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Feb 21 09:30:43 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:30:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?stainless_steel_parts?= Message-ID: <20090221163043.23161.qmail@server278.com> i have put two falcon stainless steel exhausts on a bj7 and bn6. both had to have the flanges filed out to fit, and i had to alter the hangers to fit, i.e., to include grinding off and rewelding the rear on. decided to stay away from them when it comes time to replace the bj8 exhaust. hjim From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Feb 21 09:39:03 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:39:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem Message-ID: Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will probably just try to accumulate parts over the next year. Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible sounds in 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all the teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct repair right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. Thoughts? Cheaply yours, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. From watterbury at yahoo.com Sat Feb 21 09:48:00 2009 From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:48:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Amazing technology Message-ID: <662467.9530.qm@web31810.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Yes, great technology. We have one of the FDM (fused deposition modeling) machines. But one wonders, why did they go to all the trouble of laser scanning the part and creating a plastic rendition when they could have simply used the old part as a pattern to sand cast the new part? If they really wanted to show off, they would have fabricated a new part from the CAD data using an SLS process (selective laser sintering - Wiki it). Think of a similar process to FDM, but uses powdered metal that is fused together in layers using a laser. Strong enough for gears or tooling, and certainly much stronger than a cast iron D valve. Bill Atterbury '62 BT7 >Message: 12 >Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:48:37 -0500 >From: "John Sims" >Subject: [Healeys] FW: Amazing technology >To: "'Healey Mail List'" >Message-ID: <013c01c9937b$13d02b80$3b708280$@net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >This is absolutely astonishing! The first part is a short commercial but >watch the whole clip. You will be amazed - especially restorers who can not >find a good part from the usual suspects. > >http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=944641 > >Thanks to Don Hambrick for forwarding it to me. > >John Sims, BN6 >Aberdeen, NJ >www.healey6.com >------------------------------ From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Feb 21 10:13:07 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:13:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Never Mind... More...60 BN7 Tranny problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: OK never mind. My mechanic shot the idea down due to particles possibly causing more wear. I'll be a good boy and park it until I get the funds together. It is a good thing I have two cars for back-up. Vroom, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY ---------------------------------------- > From: ahpowered at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:39:03 -0600 > Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem > > Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" > spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will > have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have > that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will probably > just try to accumulate parts over the next year. > > Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible > sounds in > 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think > about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all > the > teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct repair > right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear > and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. > > Thoughts? > > Cheaply yours, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 21 10:14:55 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 18:14:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A0368F.5060205@chello.nl> Scott, Did you actually take the gearbox apart or did someone make a diagnosis just listenig to the noises. If the latter is the case, dismantle the gearbox and renew as many bearings as you can, that should not cost an arm and a leg. Make sure all parts including the casing are spotlessly clean before reassembly. Change oil frequently to get rid of the metal particles. Leave the OD well alone if that functioned properly. I would not venture running the box into smithereens. Dangerous and costly. Kees Oudesluijs scott willis schreef: > Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" > spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will > have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have > that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will probably > just try to accumulate parts over the next year. > > Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible > sounds in > 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think > about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all > the > teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct repair > right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear > and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. > > Thoughts? > > Cheaply yours, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 21 10:30:38 2009 From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:30:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem References: Message-ID: <000c01c9944a$1d8695e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Jeesh Scott, your getting a bit desperate here , ; ) Why not put Smashy away for a while and drive your beautiful "A" which is probably screaming for your affection out of jealousy towards Smashy. The "smiles per mile" is exactly the same and you don't risk screwing up any other parts in your gear box. While Smashy is laid up waiting for the trany repair you can tend to the other areas that need non-financially draining attention. You have a nice situation in having another LBC to fall back on. Go drive the "A" , is what I say. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "scott willis" To: Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 11:39 AM Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem > Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" > spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will > have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have > that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will > probably > just try to accumulate parts over the next year. > > Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible > sounds in > 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think > about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all > the > teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct > repair > right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear > and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. > > Thoughts? > > Cheaply yours, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From satkinson7314 at charter.net Sat Feb 21 10:31:37 2009 From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:31:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wiring pics Message-ID: <30BE39306E494E9EBFB44D1E12997989@AtkinsonPC> Would anyone have any pictures they can share of the wiring around the fuel pump (location of any clips and how the main harness comes through this area to the trunk) and in the trunk for a 3000 BT7L? Fuel pump being on the drivers side. Thanks, Simon From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Feb 21 11:26:53 2009 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:26:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem In-Reply-To: <000c01c9944a$1d8695e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> References: <000c01c9944a$1d8695e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q> Message-ID: Hi Mark, Yes, I have ZERO patience as you can see. I need to relax and enjoy fiddling but I am a driver more than a fiddler. I have been driving the A and the E but I long for the Healey grunt. It comes out of twisties with such purpose. It also slides through the turns with confidence. The Jag is nose heavy for really tight roads and the A is a bit weak though a riot in it's own right. I will just long for the day and save up for tranny repair. I'll just watch this twitchy vid of er on the road to get me by. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NXxZRUEWdM I do need to attend to the interior. I will go ahead and install my Bill Bolton lightened flywheel that I bought years back and do so some other minor things. See ya on the road! Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://www.bgeuroclassics.org BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY ---------------------------------------- > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net > To: ahpowered at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:30:38 -0500 > > Jeesh Scott, your getting a bit desperate here , ; ) Why not put Smashy > away for a while and drive > your beautiful "A" which is probably screaming for your affection out of > jealousy towards Smashy. > The "smiles per mile" is exactly the same and you don't risk screwing up any > other parts in your gear > box. While Smashy is laid up waiting for the trany repair you can tend to > the other areas that need > non-financially draining attention. > > You have a nice situation in having another LBC to fall back on. > > Go drive the "A" , is what I say. > > Mark > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "scott willis" > To: > Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 11:39 AM > Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem > > >> Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" >> spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will >> have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have >> that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will >> probably >> just try to accumulate parts over the next year. >> >> Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible >> sounds in >> 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think >> about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all >> the >> teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct >> repair >> right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear >> and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Cheaply yours, >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://www.bgeuroclassics.org >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY _________________________________________________________________ Its the same Hotmail.. If by same you mean up to 70% faster. From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sat Feb 21 11:45:53 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:45:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Large Stash of NOS Lucas Parts Message-ID: <25444302.1235241953352.JavaMail.root@elwamui-chisos.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI, Best, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Michael Balch in Des Moins This is a website for a company that recently purchased a 2 story warehose full of NOS auto parts. Appears to be mostly vintage Lucas from the 1950s to the 1980s. You can go on the website and see pictures of what they have inventoried so far. If you want something, you send you them an e-mail and they will list it on EBAY. Some of the parts are already listed on EBAY. You may want to pass this on to the British car clubs/folks you know. http://maxwell-thomas.com/default.aspx Mike From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Sat Feb 21 16:10:41 2009 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 15:10:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Amazing technology In-Reply-To: <662467.9530.qm@web31810.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Bill, >From what I understand of sand casting, using the original part would make a new part that is too small. As the metal cools after solidifying, it contracts. Each type of metal has a different characteristic. I was in Smitty's shop a few years back and he was explaining what he went through to make his bell housing for the Toyota transmission conversion. His master mould had to account for two cycles of shrinking. He'd make expendable intermediate moulds from the master. -----Original Message----- But one wonders, why did they go to all the trouble of laser scanning the part and creating a plastic rendition when they could have simply used the old part as a pattern to sand cast the new part? From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Feb 21 16:46:53 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 07:46:53 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires In-Reply-To: <49A00B17.4080000@comcast.net> References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> <49A00B17.4080000@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - You get the rubbing on th 6" rims because more offset is to the inside. With 5" rims you wouldn't get the rubbing with 185/70s. Alan On 2/21/09, Bob Spidell wrote: > Interesting that the Pirellis have a larger diameter, and much larger > cross-section than the Michelins, Avons or Vredesteins. My 185/70R Vreds > barely fit--I get a little rubbing on the bumper box bolts in the rear > on hard cornering--but I run 6" rims. > > > Bob > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: >> ... >> > >> I run the 185/70R15 Vredesteins on my Healey, and they are excellent >> tires. >> But recently Longstone brought back the Pirelli CN36 in 185/70R15 ... at a >> pretty good price - I would buy the Pirellis if I hadn't just purchased >> the >> Vredesteins: >> >> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15 >> ... > >> Cheers, >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 7:51 AM, Ray Carbone >> wrote: >> >> >>> Hi Alan, >>> >>> Forgot to mention, I am running 72 spoke Chromes. Thanks for the >>> question. >>> >>> >>> >>> All the best, >>> >>> >>> >>> Ray >>> > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - > Henry Ford > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Feb 21 17:32:51 2009 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:32:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If I may put in my two cents, I would talk with Bill Bolton (tricarb at aol.com). He is the best and since you already have the trans out of the car you can send it via UPS on a pallet. I found his prices to be very reasonable. Three years since he rebuilt mine and its like new. I think he charges way too little for his skill so it must be a labor of love for these beasts that makes him do it. His work is top notch. AND a very nice person. Rich Kahn > From: ahpowered at hotmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:39:03 -0600 > Subject: [Healeys] More...60 BN7 Tranny problem > > Thanks everybody for your suggestions. Unfortunately "right now" > spending $2k-ish to repair my side shift is out of the question. I will > have to postpone. I love the side shift and I will always want to have > that and the overdrive. It is too fun and unique to give up. I will probably > just try to accumulate parts over the next year. > > Hey, an idea...the tranny worked before I pulled it. It just made horrible > sounds in > 1st and popped out of first if I did not hold it in. What do you think > about me re-installing the tranny and driving the hell out of it until all > the > teeth are gone on 1st gear since I do not have the funds for a correct repair > right now? Will it hurt if I have to replace 1st gear > and the laygears anyway. I assume all metal bits will gather in the sump. > > Thoughts? > > Cheaply yours, > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://www.bgeuroclassics.org > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Its the same Hotmail.. If by same you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Same_022009 From shop at justbrits.com Sat Feb 21 19:26:14 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:26:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Amazing technology In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Which WOULD explain how Overriders and Bumpers got 'reduced', Greg. I think Roger Moment fist pointed the diffs out to me WITH actual sizes. Perhaps Richard Gordon (Lister) could ask and post the info??? As I am sure David & Norman Nock will attest to, there ARE a number of LBC (I deal with more than just Healeys) parts where this situation crops up. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com Sat Feb 21 19:47:55 2009 From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 18:47:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Amazing technology In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Ed, I wouldn't think shrinking would apply. Bumpers aren't cast, but stamped? I'd chalk it up to bad manufacturing. As my dad always said, "measure twice, cut once." :~) Cheers, Greg -----Original Message----- <> Which WOULD explain how Overriders and Bumpers got 'reduced', Greg. I think Roger Moment fist pointed the diffs out to me WITH actual sizes. Perhaps Richard Gordon (Lister) could ask and post the info??? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 22 01:11:03 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 09:11:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tiers Tires which Tires In-Reply-To: References: <4FC89E8669244196BFACD214C080FB96@RAC> <9EE642C79C954CAC80CDCD72F9A2E74B@RAC> <49A00B17.4080000@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49A10897.7020108@chello.nl> If you have wire wheels you could have the spokes adjusted to change the offset so that the rim would be a bit more to the outside. For solid wheels you can of course use spacers/shims. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Bob - > > You get the rubbing on th 6" rims because more offset is to the > inside. With 5" rims you wouldn't get the rubbing with 185/70s. > > Alan > > On 2/21/09, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Interesting that the Pirellis have a larger diameter, and much larger >> cross-section than the Michelins, Avons or Vredesteins. My 185/70R Vreds >> barely fit--I get a little rubbing on the bumper box bolts in the rear >> on hard cornering--but I run 6" rims. >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> Alan Seigrist wrote: >> >>> ... >>> >>> >>> I run the 185/70R15 Vredesteins on my Healey, and they are excellent >>> tires. >>> But recently Longstone brought back the Pirelli CN36 in 185/70R15 ... at a >>> pretty good price - I would buy the Pirellis if I hadn't just purchased >>> the >>> Vredesteins: >>> >>> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?searchMethod=term&searchTerm=590+X+15 >>> ... >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> '52 A90 >>> '53 BN1 >>> '64 BJ8 >>> >>> >>> On Sat, Feb 21, 2009 at 7:51 AM, Ray Carbone >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>>> Hi Alan, >>>> >>>> Forgot to mention, I am running 72 spoke Chromes. Thanks for the >>>> question. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> All the best, >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Ray >>>> >>>> >> ******************************************************************* >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - >> Henry Ford >> ******************************************************************* >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 22 02:25:36 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:25:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <132323623-1235151899-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1917521845-@bxe1019.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <132323623-1235151899-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1917521845-@bxe1019.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <49A11A10.30202@chello.nl> Will the NOS original AC work properly with modern refrigerants as the old stuff is not available legally anymore. Better to use and modify a modern unit, perhaps using some original under dashboard components. These units should work properly and will have a far more reliable compressor. There are plenty of cars to choose from. Best would probably be some unit from a small Japanese car (sorry). Kees Oudesluijs ahmg at aol.com schreef: > In 1966 air conditioning was an approved BMC factory accessory as listed in the salesman guide and showroom material. This was a very rare option and not many were sold. I have just installed a factory system in my BJ8 with the help of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro NC. I have also assumed the duties of maintaing the registry that was started by Pat Yoas in the 80's. I have one remaing complete system NOS still in orignal boxes as well as all literature associated with the unit. They were actually produced by Coolaire of Miami, but they also had a plant in Luton England. According to Pat Y, who discussed the unit with Donald, told him that several were installed at the factory. Since each unit has its own serial number, we have record of cars installed with a/c. Recently we believe we uncovered the earliest production unit based on recorded serial numbers. I will be glad to discuss the units and my installation with you if you would like to contact me off list. > > Ken > ------Original Message------ > From: Ashbrook, Doug (NIH/CIT) [E] > Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? > Sent: Feb 20, 2009 11:43 AM > > I have seen several references to Healey 3000's with air conditioning. Was > this a factory option or are these after-market additions? Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahmg at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Sent from my BlackBerry. wireless device > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbagby45 at aol.com Sun Feb 22 07:02:22 2009 From: wbagby45 at aol.com (WBagby45) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 09:02:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <49A11A10.30202@chello.nl> References: <132323623-1235151899-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1917521845-@bxe1019.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>, <49A11A10.30202@chello.nl> Message-ID: <134f51d6.14c9.4855.8ad3.497ff359f5dd@aol.com> Vintage Air in San Antonio, Texas makes units that will fit any application. They are very helpful and are familiar with sizing needed for a Healey. Wright In a message dated 02/22/09 04:26:50 Eastern Standard Time, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: Will the NOS original AC work properly with modern refrigerants as the old stuff is not available legally anymore. Better to use and modify a modern unit, perhaps using some original under dashboard components. These units should work properly and will have a far more reliable compressor. There are plenty of cars to choose from. Best would probably be some unit from a small Japanese car (sorry). Kees Oudesluijs ahmg at aol.com schreef: > In 1966 air conditioning was an approved BMC factory accessory as listed in the salesman guide and showroom material. This was a very rare option and not many were sold. I have just installed a factory system in my BJ8 with the help of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro NC. I have also assumed the duties of maintaing the registry that was started by Pat Yoas in the 80's. I have one remaing complete system NOS still in orignal boxes as well as all literature associated with the unit. They were actually produced by Coolaire of Miami, but they also had a plant in Luton England. According to Pat Y, who discussed the unit with Donald, told him that several were installed at the factory. Since each unit has its own serial number, we have record of cars installed with a/c. Recently we believe we uncovered the earliest production unit based on recorded serial numbers. I will be glad to discuss the units and my installation with you if you would like to contact me off list. > > Ken > ------Original Message------ > From: Ashbrook, Doug (NIH/CIT) [E] > Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? > Sent: Feb 20, 2009 11:43 AM > > I have seen several references to Healey 3000's with air conditioning. Was > this a factory option or are these after-market additions? Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahmg at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Sent from my BlackBerry. wireless device > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as wbagby45 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From britishcars at shaw.ca Sun Feb 22 08:14:08 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 07:14:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil Message-ID: Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or resisted? I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports coil..I don't know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul From Warthodson at aol.com Sun Feb 22 09:05:58 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:05:58 EST Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? Message-ID: I have been out of the heating & A/C industry for a few years, but as far as I know the "old" refrigerants are still available for servicing "old" systems. Just not legal for new equipment. Gary Hodson In a message dated 2/22/2009 3:26:25 A.M. Central Standard Time, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: Will the NOS original AC work properly with modern refrigerants as the old stuff is not available legally anymore. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 09:31:39 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:31:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> Don't ballasted systems require two primary circuits; i.e. one for starting (non-ballasted) and one for running (ballasted)? The distributor won't care, as it switches the primary circuit--12V or otherwise--to ground. AFAIK, Sports Coils are not ballasted, and work with std. Healey ignition circuits. The nominal resistance for Healey-suitable coils is just over 1 ohm (i.e. only slight internal resistance). Neither our BN2 or BJ8 has ballasted systems. I could be wrong (but this should start an interesting thread ;) Bob PG wrote: > Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or > resisted? > > > > I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports coil..I don't > know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. > > > > Any help is appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Paul > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sun Feb 22 09:45:10 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:45:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> References: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9D8B3B5CA7E94BC3A3E583A4E3A3ECB1@michael> With all due respects that just doesn't sound correct. As I recall a coil for use with a ballast resistor has an impedance of something like 1.5 ohms whereas one for use without is more like 3.2 ohms... You certainly should not use a coil designed for use with a resistor in a non resistor system..things get very warm... Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: February 22, 2009 11:32 AM To: PG Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil Don't ballasted systems require two primary circuits; i.e. one for starting (non-ballasted) and one for running (ballasted)? The distributor won't care, as it switches the primary circuit--12V or otherwise--to ground. AFAIK, Sports Coils are not ballasted, and work with std. Healey ignition circuits. The nominal resistance for Healey-suitable coils is just over 1 ohm (i.e. only slight internal resistance). Neither our BN2 or BJ8 has ballasted systems. I could be wrong (but this should start an interesting thread ;) Bob PG wrote: > Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or > resisted? > > > > I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports coil..I don't > know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. > > > > Any help is appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Paul > > > -- From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 09:55:53 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:55:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> References: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> Message-ID: You are 1/2 right. If it didn't matter, then they would not have put ballast resistors (either internal or external) into the ignition systems. If you use an internally ballested coil on a system with an external ballast resistor, the points won't see enough voltage, which wile the distributor won't care, the spark plugs might. Not enough voltage in primary = not enough voltage in the secondary, which can lead to a miss-fire. If you use a coil that requires an external ballast resistor on a car with no external ballast resistor I can assure you that the distributor will in fact care. A lot. The points are not designed to switch full system voltage, and if there is not ballast resistor in the system (external or internal) the excess voltage will lead to excess arcing of the points and them burning out very quickly. In the case of an electronic system will this cause issues? I don't know as I am unfamiliar with the particular system being discussed. On some electronic systems, you might pop a power transistor. You are correct that an external ballast resistor system has a bypass circuit during starting, so that the coil see full voltage during crank. The reason for this is, full system voltage during crank is in the 9-10 volt range not 13-14 like when the car is running. The starter motor drags the battery voltage way down. On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Don't ballasted systems require two primary circuits; i.e. one for starting > (non-ballasted) and one for running (ballasted)? The distributor won't care, > as it switches the primary circuit--12V or otherwise--to ground. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 10:38:11 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 09:38:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: References: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49A18D83.1090301@comcast.net> OK, so ignition systems with ballast--either external resistor or internal to coil--use points/condensers than can't handle 12V+ continuously (makes sense--the bean counters can save a few shillings)? Don't Healey points switch 12V+ continuously? My main point was that Healeys don't use any ballast--so that's correct? Bob Richard Ewald wrote: You are 1/2 right. ... If you use a coil that requires an external ballast resistor on a car with no external ballast resistor I can assure you that the distributor will in fact care. A lot. The points are not designed to switch full system voltage, and if there is not ballast resistor in the system (external or internal) the excess voltage will lead to excess arcing of the points and them burning out very quickly. In the case of an electronic system will this cause issues? I don't know as I am unfamiliar with the particular system being discussed. On some electronic systems, you might pop a power transistor. ... On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Don't ballasted systems require two primary circuits; i.e. one for starting (non-ballasted) and one for running (ballasted)? The distributor won't care, as it switches the primary circuit--12V or otherwise--to ground. -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently." - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 22 10:55:00 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 18:55:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> References: <49A17DEB.7030005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49A19174.7050503@chello.nl> If you have an electronic system you have to take care with the coil and ballast resistor if present. Some electronic ignition systems require a minimum resistance of coil (plus resistor) of 3 Ohms I think, anyway check with the fitting instructions. Also should the resistor be in the circuit during cranking for some elctronic ignition systems. If not adhered to the electronic ignition module may burn out. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > Don't ballasted systems require two primary circuits; i.e. one for > starting (non-ballasted) and one for running (ballasted)? The > distributor won't care, as it switches the primary circuit--12V or > otherwise--to ground. > > AFAIK, Sports Coils are not ballasted, and work with std. Healey > ignition circuits. The nominal resistance for Healey-suitable coils is > just over 1 ohm (i.e. only slight internal resistance). Neither our > BN2 or BJ8 has ballasted systems. > > I could be wrong (but this should start an interesting thread ;) > > > Bob > > > PG wrote: >> Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or >> resisted? >> >> >> >> I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports >> coil..I don't >> know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. >> >> >> >> Any help is appreciated. >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> Paul From ampole at hotmail.com Sun Feb 22 12:10:11 2009 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:10:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] front suspension assembly order In-Reply-To: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> References: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> Message-ID: Simon I found it very easy to build up the kingpin (endfloat done), disc and wishbone assembly as pictured here: (you might find it easier to raise the unit onto a box rather than struggling with it in your lap, and its easier to push the bushes into the chassis points, hold the wishbone arms while someone else puts the bolts thru) http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5132614&prev=1 http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5132646&prev=1 then mount the shock, you can then lift the unit up pivoting on the bottom trunnion bolt and slide the top bolt thru. Then put the spring in and use 4 lengths of threaded bar or long tensile bolts thru the spring pan to wind up, replacing one at a time for the correct bolts (if you dont have a spring compresser). Dont forget to place a 2" piece of wood under the shock to determine the correct placement / simulate correct loading of suspension: http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5133157&prev=1 Then you can set the gap on the lower trunnion, and load /shim the bearings. ps I know Rich that the shock bodies should be upainted, cant get everything right :) cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Check out the new and improved services from Windows Live. Learn more! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/132630768/direct/01/ From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 12:50:03 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:50:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> I checked a book I have called "Tuning Lucas Ignition Systems." In it, there's a schematic for a ballasted system showing a lead from the ignition switch through a ballast resistor to the coil and one from the starter solenoid to the coil. When cranking the starter, the lead from the solenoid will short around the ballast resistor. If your distributor requires a ballasted system you could wire it this way. Bob PG wrote: > Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or > resisted? > > > > I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports coil..I don't > know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. > > > > Any help is appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Paul > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 13:09:24 2009 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:09:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Casting Parts Message-ID: <8138ED83-BF9F-44BD-833B-21132595FD27@comcast.net> In response to the Amazing Technology question, Roger Moment has sent me the following response: Richard, Here are some comments you are welcome to post. I Shrinking of metal in molds is significant . 5% is a typical amount and since it is a percentage, the larger the part the more noticeable the change in size. When I do investment casting (wax master, parts cast in bronze) there are three shrinkage stages if I use an original as a master for my mold. First is the mold rubber. Second is the wax and third is the final bronze casting. Some silicone rubbers shrink less than others. There are also different types of wax that you can use, some of which shrink more than others. In fact, the wax has a coefficient of thermal expansion such that it can change dimensions if it is at room temperature as opposed to inside a refrigerator. When I made a reproduction of the earliest 100 flash that was attached to Healey grilles (the numerals are only about 3/4" tall and the lightning bolt does not have a slight raised ridge down the center but is flat with a very fine scribed groove) my rubber mold. The rubber mold ended up only very slightly smaller than the original piece I cast it around. But when I made the waxes, if I chilled them in the 'frig to speed up their solidifying, they would shrink away from the mold and be measurably smaller. When I treed them up at room temperature, they would be closer to the correct size. By changing wax material, I was able to significantly reduce this thermal dimension changing. The final bronzes still were about 0.080" shorter than the original piece. But for this application it was acceptable. I also reproduced some pieces for a lock assembly on a Victorian house. Here the original part was cast in iron. The side cover plates -- about 4x5" in size -- were measurably smaller than the part they mated to, but I was able to get them to work. I made an aluminum casting cup holder for my BMW and to get a proper size to perfectly fit I had to make the master (built up out of masonite and body putty) about 7% large. I think it took two tries before the final Al sand casting came out the correct size. I was fortunate in that a friend owned the foundry and helped me with my sizing issues. Casting urethane parts in rubber or aluminum molds does not encounter such sizing issues. The final bits I have made came out dimensionally within measurement error of what I wanted. Roger I hope that helps with the quest for perfection! Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 22 13:30:11 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:30:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <134f51d6.14c9.4855.8ad3.497ff359f5dd@aol.com> Message-ID: <> And I would BET that their units COMPLY to modern regulations, Wright!! Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 13:35:07 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:35:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> References: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49A1B6FB.9050307@comcast.net> More info: http://www.burtonpower.com/technical_1/ignition_systems.aspx Bob Spidell wrote: > I checked a book I have called "Tuning Lucas Ignition Systems." In it, > there's a schematic for a ballasted system showing a lead from the > ignition switch through a ballast resistor to the coil and one from > the starter solenoid to the coil. When cranking the starter, the lead > from the solenoid will short around the ballast resistor. > > If your distributor requires a ballasted system you could wire it this > way. > > > Bob > > > PG wrote: >> Does anybody know if the Lucas Sports Coil is internally ballasted or >> resisted? >> >> >> >> I'm installing a Unilite distributor and already have a sports >> coil..I don't >> know if I have to add a ballast resistor or not. >> >> >> >> Any help is appreciated. >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> Paul >> >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - > Henry Ford > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently. - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 22 13:37:12 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:37:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <<...but as far as I know the "old" refrigerants are still available for servicing "old" systems.>> While it 'may' be available Gary, it IS illegal for ANY legit Service (auto or home/commercial) Business to use it. AS I have TWO (1 F/S) and DRIVE 1970 El Caminos (both with Factory Installed A/C) I am 'up-to-speed' on the subject!! That is if I want the A/C to WORK which I VERY much desire. Both vehicles HAD to be converted for the ability to use the "new" stuff. And if was NOT cheap!! <> True and see above. Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Feb 22 14:18:00 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:18:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62571444CE5644D390D739E91FDCEED5@LeonardPCPC> >From the EPA website: "...The following people can only buy refrigerant found suitable for use in a motor vehicle air conditioner (for example, R-12, R-406A, R-414A, R-414B, etc.), including "small cans" containing less than 20 pounds of R-12: technicians certified to service motor vehicle air-conditioners (MVACs) by a Section 609 EPA-certified testing organization ..." >From what I understand in the law, although R12 is no longer produced it can be reclaimed, cleaned, and reused by certified technicians. R22 has a phase-out date of 2020 but I could not find any date for R12. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air conditioning? > <<...but as far as I know the "old" > refrigerants are still available for servicing > "old" systems.>> > > While it 'may' be available Gary, it IS illegal > for ANY legit Service (auto or home/commercial) > Business to use it. > > Ed > Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 15:03:16 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:03:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <67206C4E-5EFF-45A0-9EE2-0A1F97EA7509@gmail.com> Sorry Ed but you are the victim of some poor information. It is entirely legal for a certified technician here in the US to service and recharge an R-12 system. The only time it becomes illegal is if an uncertified person does the work, or the R-12 isn't recovered, or if the system is leaky. Conversion to R-134 (refridgerant of choice for autos) is often cheap and easy. The oil in the system will either have to be changed to an ester oil or PAG oil will have to be added. The fittings will have to be converted to 134 style to prevent contamination. Usually a new reciever drier or accumulator will be needed. I converted my '76 GMC to 134 and it was a breeze. I replaced the existing bad compressor, added a new receiver drier new fittings and I was good to go. Rick -Who used to teach AC certification classes. Sent from my iPhone On Feb 22, 2009, at 12:37 PM, "Ed's Shop" wrote: > > While it 'may' be available Gary, it IS illegal > for ANY legit Service (auto or home/commercial) > Business to use it. > > AS I have TWO (1 F/S) and DRIVE 1970 > El Caminos (both with Factory Installed A/C) > I am 'up-to-speed' on the subject!! That > is if I want the A/C to WORK which I VERY > much desire. > > Both vehicles HAD to be converted for the > ability to use the "new" stuff. And if was > NOT cheap!! From shop at justbrits.com Sun Feb 22 16:52:47 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:52:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <67206C4E-5EFF-45A0-9EE2-0A1F97EA7509@gmail.com> Message-ID: <> While info could be 'poor' Rick, at LEAST 10 shops/guys ALL said the SAME thing. However, I AM in Dirty/Filthy Politics Illinoise !! As a side note, 'recovery' was NOT a problem as NEITHER system had anything to 'recover'!!! NOT sorry BUT A/C'd El Camino Ed From pyoas at yahoo.com Sun Feb 22 17:27:45 2009 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 16:27:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 122 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <602634.96537.qm@web90505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The Factory AC units used the old R12 refrigerant which has been replaced with "Freeze 12" which I understand is very close to the original R12. I sold my Factory AC to Ken and had a system made and installed by Bret BLades who is in the Dallas, Texas area. Many of the AC components made work with R134 or R12. The system the Bret installed is from Old Air in Ft Worth, TX which many other mods. The "developement" bracket for the compressor was which holds both the compressor and alternator was paid for by me. The system is very good and it blows 44 degrees out of the vents. Go to Photobucket "pyoas" for pictures. Patrick Yoas Message: 7 Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:25:36 +0100 From: Oudesluys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air conditioning? To: ahmg at aol.com Cc: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net, "Ashbrook, Doug \(NIH/CIT\) \[E\]" , Healey Mail List Message-ID: <49A11A10.30202 at chello.nl> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Will the NOS original AC work properly with modern refrigerants as the old stuff is not available legally anymore. Better to use and modify a modern unit, perhaps using some original under dashboard components. These units should work properly and will have a far more reliable compressor. There are plenty of cars to choose from. Best would probably be some unit from a small Japanese car (sorry). Kees Oudesluijs ahmg at aol.com schreef: > In 1966 air conditioning was an approved BMC factory accessory as listed in the salesman guide and showroom material. This was a very rare option and not many were sold. I have just installed a factory system in my BJ8 with the help of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro NC. I have also assumed the duties of maintaing the registry that was started by Pat Yoas in the 80's. I have one remaing complete system NOS still in orignal boxes as well as all literature associated with the unit. They were actually produced by Coolaire of Miami, but they also had a plant in Luton England. According to Pat Y, who discussed the unit with Donald, told him that several were installed at the factory. Since each unit has its own serial number, we have record of cars installed with a/c. Recently we believe we uncovered the earliest production unit based on recorded serial numbers. I will be glad to discuss the units and my installation with you if you would like to contact me off list. > > Ken > ------Original Message------ > From: Ashbrook, Doug (NIH/CIT) [E] > Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? > Sent: Feb 20, 2009 11:43 AM > > I have seen several references to Healey 3000's with air conditioning. Was > this a factory option or are these after-market additions? Thanks. From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 18:08:47 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:08:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: References: <67206C4E-5EFF-45A0-9EE2-0A1F97EA7509@gmail.com> Message-ID: Ed, And I am in California. There are two indisputable facts when comparing Illinois and California. 1. Our Governor can beat up your Governor 2. We have way more environmental regulation than you do. For example nobody talks about an Illinois spec car, but everyone has heard of a California spec car. It may not be economical to fix up and R-12 system, and recharge it, but it is legal. Getting back to the question at hand, if I was installing a NOS AC system I would get a R-134 receiver drier, R-134 seals for the hoses (cheap, and why not go with the good stuff) put PAG (Poly Alkaline Glycol) oil in the compressor, and I would give serious consideration to replacing the rubber hoses, not because they are not compatible with R-134 (They are) but because they are at least 40 years old. The receiver drier will probably run between $50-100 bucks, the seals a buck or two each retail, the oil maybe $15, and hoses who knows, go to an AC shop and they can make them up for a reasonable amount. Rick On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 3:52 PM, Ed's Shop wrote: > < entirely legal for a certified technician here in the US to service > and recharge an R-12 system. >> > > While info could be 'poor' Rick, at LEAST 10 shops/guys ALL said > the SAME thing. > > However, I AM in Dirty/Filthy Politics Illinoise !! > > As a side note, 'recovery' was NOT a problem as NEITHER > system had anything to 'recover'!!! > > NOT sorry BUT A/C'd El Camino Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Sun Feb 22 21:18:03 2009 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 04:18:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] front suspension assembly order In-Reply-To: References: <20E65217E2C44CA089F31643F97A07E4@AtkinsonPC> Message-ID: Would it not be easier to attach things first without the hub and rotor bolted up to the stub axle? Richard . > From: ampole at hotmail.com > To: satkinson7314 at charter.net; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:10:11 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] front suspension assembly order > > Simon > > > > I found it very easy to build up the kingpin (endfloat done), disc and > wishbone assembly as pictured here: (you might find it easier to raise the > unit onto a box rather than struggling with it in your lap, and its easier to > push the bushes into the chassis points, hold the wishbone arms while someone > else puts the bolts thru) > > > > http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5132614&prev=1 > > > > http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5132646&prev=1 > > > > then mount the shock, you can then lift the unit up pivoting on the bottom > trunnion bolt and slide the top bolt thru. Then put the spring in and use 4 > lengths of threaded bar or long tensile bolts thru the spring pan to wind up, > replacing one at a time for the correct bolts (if you dont have a spring > compresser). Dont forget to place a 2" piece of wood under the shock to > determine the correct placement / simulate correct loading of suspension: > > > > http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5133157&prev=1 > > > > Then you can set the gap on the lower trunnion, and load /shim the bearings. > > > > ps I know Rich that the shock bodies should be upainted, cant get everything > right :) > > > > cheers Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > Check out the new and improved services from Windows Live. Learn more! > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/132630768/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009 From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 21:55:26 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:55:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Message-ID: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Hey all, I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film that it becomes such. Here's my working list: 1) Italian Job (Original) 2) Vanishing Point 3) Bullett 4) Cars 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) 7) Herbie the love bug 8) Smokey and the Bandit 9) Cannoball Run There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond films, etc, etc. What do you all think? Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Feb 22 22:04:02 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:04:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: G'day Jody What about Le Mans? After all you do get to see the Healey XR37 three times throughout the film. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jody Kerr Sent: Monday, 23 February 2009 3:55 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Hey all, I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film that it becomes such. Here's my working list: 1) Italian Job (Original) 2) Vanishing Point 3) Bullett 4) Cars 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) 7) Herbie the love bug 8) Smokey and the Bandit 9) Cannoball Run There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond films, etc, etc. What do you all think? Jody From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Feb 22 22:07:49 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 23:07:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <70BD108970FB4A04A2AE23EDF60601DF@GregPC> "Heart Like a Wheel " is a good racing flick You could probably have "Grand Prix" with James Garner and or "Le Mans" with Steve McQueen on the list. I prefer the "Gumball Rally" to the "Cannonball Run" If you can count motorcycle flicks "The Worlds Fastest Indian" should definitely be on the list. "The Racers" with Kirk Douglas is worth a watch I am sure others will follow with more, Greg Lemon From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 22:08:18 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:08:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <471534970902222108s26fc48capc6dff43d8dc901d7@mail.gmail.com> Is that: Le Mans (1971) "A classic auto-racing movie, Le Mans is a 24-hour pedal-to-the-metal jaunt through the French countryside. Steve McQueen plays an American driver locked in an intense grudge match with his German counterpart, even as he wrestles with his guilt over causing an accident that cost the life of a close friend. McQueen comes through with a penetrating, stoic performance, and the racing sequences are nothing less than thrilling." I've not seen it. It's on my list of "Not seen yet" films.... It predated me by a few years and my dad never sat me down for that one. Jody On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 10:04 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day Jody > > What about Le Mans? After all you do get to see the Healey XR37 three times > throughout the film. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jody Kerr > Sent: Monday, 23 February 2009 3:55 PM > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > > Hey all, > > I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight > and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I > don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a > really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is > that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film > that it becomes such. Here's my working list: > > 1) Italian Job (Original) > 2) Vanishing Point > 3) Bullett > 4) Cars > 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) > 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) > 7) Herbie the love bug > 8) Smokey and the Bandit > 9) Cannoball Run > > There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill > Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond > films, etc, etc. > > What do you all think? > > Jody > > > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 22:12:49 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <70BD108970FB4A04A2AE23EDF60601DF@GregPC> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> <70BD108970FB4A04A2AE23EDF60601DF@GregPC> Message-ID: <471534970902222112n3ddb8f35i9f8d22a6eac9bc27@mail.gmail.com> Greg, Thanks! I've never seen the James Garner one, but grew up on the "Support your local..." and the Rockford Files, so I'll bet I'll like it. In fact, there's an old VW Bus for sale here locally that appeared numerous times in the Rockford Files. If it wasn't more rust than sheetmetal I would have bought it. I'll have to track down "Gumball Rally" and "The Racers" Honstly I was unhappy with the latter half of my list and knew there'd be better films. (Personally, if the Porsche had been in more of the film I'd have put Downhill Racer on the list). On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 10:07 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > "Heart Like a Wheel " is a good racing flick > > You could probably have "Grand Prix" with James Garner and or "Le Mans" > with Steve McQueen on the list. > > I prefer the "Gumball Rally" to the "Cannonball Run" > > If you can count motorcycle flicks "The Worlds Fastest Indian" should > definitely be on the list. > > "The Racers" with Kirk Douglas is worth a watch > > I am sure others will follow with more, > > Greg Lemon > > > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Feb 22 22:24:45 2009 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:24:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Since Greg brought up the possible inclusion of Motorcycle Movies, I would have to add: On any Sunday, the Bruce Brown period classic starring Steve McQueen, Mert Lawill and Malcolm Smith; and V-for Victory, the first 2/3 of which is a bit boring, but than has a heart-stopping full lap (37 km?) by Joey Dunlop at the Isle of Man at race speeds with the camera mounted on the bike Great stuff for any gear-head, although I agree TheWorld's Fastest Indian is the best. Mirek From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 22:30:43 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <471534970902222130x45ff645bo9aaed873764f9258@mail.gmail.com> Ok, "Worlds Fastest Indian" reminds me of my father (he was also a Kiwi). It's an amazing film. Mr Hopkins brings tears to my eyes every time I watch it. My dad was half that, half Jeremy Clarkson. I didn't include it because a Motorocycle list could be just as long. :) Ok, V for Victory, wasn't that the football (soccer) movie? Jody On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 10:24 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Since Greg brought up the possible inclusion of Motorcycle Movies, I would > have to add: > > On any Sunday, the Bruce Brown period classic starring Steve McQueen, Mert > Lawill and Malcolm Smith; > and > V-for Victory, the first 2/3 of which is a bit boring, but than has a > heart-stopping full lap (37 km?) by Joey Dunlop at the Isle of Man at race > speeds with the camera mounted on the bike > > Great stuff for any gear-head, although I agree TheWorld's Fastest Indian is > the best. > > Mirek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From richard.ewald at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 22:33:28 2009 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:33:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222112n3ddb8f35i9f8d22a6eac9bc27@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> <70BD108970FB4A04A2AE23EDF60601DF@GregPC> <471534970902222112n3ddb8f35i9f8d22a6eac9bc27@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: My list: 1. Grand Prix 2. Le Mans 3. Rendezvous 4. The Italian Job (original) 5. Mad Max/ The Road Warrior 6. Gumball Rally 7. Winning 8. Heart like a Wheel 9. Cars 10. The Great Race From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 22:48:01 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:48:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Oh dear. You have all missed the most important car movie ever made, *EVER*. In fact, it is the very first full length movie to be directed by Steven Spielberg, no less. Duel. Starring: Dennis Weaver & one exceptionally irate driver of a Peterbilt tractor trailer with smoked windows. 1971. One car, one tractor trailer, and about 1,000 miles of desert highway. Alan PS., by the way F&F Tokyo Drift is probably the best car+chick+no brains movie ever made. I still don't know what that movie is about, but I can visualize most scenes in my head. Best watched at 3 in the morning. The Cars movie is pretty cool too.... '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au Sun Feb 22 23:28:21 2009 From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 17:28:21 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Car 9Culture) Film Message-ID: <20090223172821.67833nadp5qir9c5@webmail.hotkey.net.au> It has got to be American Graffiti, look for the Bugeye at the traffic lights.If you dont like the cars then turn up the sound From rnbmail at yahoo.com Mon Feb 23 00:16:12 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 23:16:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <681588.80182.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Jody, LE MANS .... Steve McQueen .... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Jody Kerr wrote: > From: Jody Kerr > Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > To: "Healey Mail List" > Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 8:55 PM > Hey all, > > I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the > wife tonight > and then started making a top ten car films list because of > it. I > don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor > could I determine a > really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? > The idea is > that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral > to the film > that it becomes such. Here's my working list: > > 1) Italian Job (Original) > 2) Vanishing Point > 3) Bullett > 4) Cars > 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) > 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) > 7) Herbie the love bug > 8) Smokey and the Bandit > 9) Cannoball Run > > There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, > Downhill > Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new > Pussycat, the Bond > films, etc, etc. > > What do you all think? > > Jody > > -- > http://www.theymightberacing.com/ > 1953 Studebaker Champion > 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) > http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr > <--I'm selling parts on ebay! > > "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the > ability to learn > from the experience of others, are also remarkable for > their apparent > disinclination to do so." > --Douglas Adams > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dthall at btinternet.com Mon Feb 23 02:23:57 2009 From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:23:57 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Film Classics (Ronin) Message-ID: <73236.98638.qm@web86409.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The film Ronin takes some beating for cars, car chases and their demise. It isalso a great film and story line about ....... Regards David Hall From gbrierton at hotmail.com Mon Feb 23 03:13:07 2009 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 05:13:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Be sure to browse through http://www.imcdb.org when making your list. GaryB -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jody Kerr" Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 11:55 PM To: "Healey Mail List" Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Feb 23 01:32:03 2009 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:32:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> References: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob Good point. To elaborate this; one has to consider adding an extra contact to the starter button or switch or alternatively a relay circuit if one wishes to convert a standard A-H to a ballasted system. This will give a stronger spark whilst the engine is cranking and the battery voltage is reduced but one has to consider whether this is worth all the bother. One related point. On some British 1970s cars, and perhaps many others, the ballast resistor is hidden as a length of resistance wire in the loom. This can lead to one looking for a visible ballast resistor. When one cannot be found one incorrectly assumes that one should fit a non-ballast coil. I found this on a car, not a A-H, that misfired at higher revs after a so called repairer had been involved. This is something else in life that I learnt the hard way. Regards >I checked a book I have called "Tuning Lucas Ignition Systems." In it, >there's a schematic for a ballasted system showing a lead from the >ignition switch through a ballast resistor to the coil and one from the >starter solenoid to the coil. When cranking the starter, the lead from >the solenoid will short around the ballast resistor. > -- John Harper From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 23 03:53:51 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:53:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Sports Coil In-Reply-To: References: <49A1AC6B.2030100@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49A2803F.7090801@chello.nl> If you have an electronic ignition system fitted always check that it can handle the the lower resistance/impedance of the coil less balast resistor. In many systems you always have to have the resistor wired in. They demand a total minimum resistance of some 3 Ohm. Neglecting this may lead to a fried ingnition unit. I have seen this happening several times with a Lumenition Magnetronic. Kees Oudesluijs John Harper schreef: > Bob > > Good point. To elaborate this; one has to consider adding an extra > contact to the starter button or switch or alternatively a relay > circuit if one wishes to convert a standard A-H to a ballasted system. > This will give a stronger spark whilst the engine is cranking and the > battery voltage is reduced but one has to consider whether this is > worth all the bother. > > One related point. On some British 1970s cars, and perhaps many > others, the ballast resistor is hidden as a length of resistance wire > in the loom. This can lead to one looking for a visible ballast > resistor. When one cannot be found one incorrectly assumes that one > should fit a non-ballast coil. I found this on a car, not a A-H, that > misfired at higher revs after a so called repairer had been involved. > > This is something else in life that I learnt the hard way. > > Regards > >> I checked a book I have called "Tuning Lucas Ignition Systems." In >> it, there's a schematic for a ballasted system showing a lead from >> the ignition switch through a ballast resistor to the coil and one >> from the starter solenoid to the coil. When cranking the starter, the >> lead from the solenoid will short around the ballast resistor. From nickzarkades at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 06:45:01 2009 From: nickzarkades at comcast.net (nickzarkades at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:45:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Seat Pans For 60 Bugeye Message-ID: <495258115.618301235396701156.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I looking for a set of usable seat pans, I refuse to pay Moss $289. each for stamped meta l. From bj8Healey at msn.com Mon Feb 23 07:25:03 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 07:25:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Message-ID: although not one of my favorites there is also "Two Lane Blacktop" jim Sailer 66 BJ8 60 Frogeye (in maaaany small pieces) From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 07:31:09 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 07:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Film Classics (Ronin) In-Reply-To: <73236.98638.qm@web86409.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <73236.98638.qm@web86409.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <471534970902230631t1c5d5c5re939996a2313e6f5@mail.gmail.com> ooo... Ronin is a great film. On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 2:23 AM, D HALL wrote: > The film Ronin takes some beating for cars, car chases and their demise. It > isalso a great film and story line about ....... > Regards > David Hall > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 07:35:04 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:35:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan Message-ID: <48720d20902230635h129dd01aj1a69577e1ce3bc3b@mail.gmail.com> Yesterday was the Chicagoland MG clubs autojumble. I found a great deal on an aftermarket electric fan, but didn't buy it. It was a 10" for an MG. The reason I didn't buy it was because I didn't know what size fan would b e proper for a BT7,and didn't want to get one too small. It is better tor have the right size, rather than a great deal. I would like to hear from any folks who have install an electric fan, particularly what size I need. Jack From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 07:40:47 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 22:40:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <48720d20902230635h129dd01aj1a69577e1ce3bc3b@mail.gmail.com> References: <48720d20902230635h129dd01aj1a69577e1ce3bc3b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Jack - I am thinking about the 16" puller sidewinder that was mentioned on the list a couple of weeks ago... BTW, I have a SPAL 11" flat blade pusher on the A90 - that thing blows like a hurricane. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 10:35 PM, Jack Feldman wrote: > Yesterday was the Chicagoland MG clubs autojumble. I found a great deal on > an aftermarket electric fan, but didn't buy it. It was a 10" for an MG. The > reason I didn't buy it was because I didn't know what size fan would b e > proper for a BT7,and didn't want to get one too small. It is better tor > have > the right size, rather than a great deal. > > I would like to hear from any folks who have install an electric fan, > particularly what size I need. > > Jack From Warthodson at aol.com Mon Feb 23 08:14:47 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:14:47 EST Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? Message-ID: One more consideration. There will be some loss of capacity when substituting R-134a for R-12. Just to get an argument started, I would estimate about 10% & you will need every BTU of cooling you can get in a Healey. Gary Hodson In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:10:02 P.M. Central Standard Time, richard.ewald at gmail.com writes: if I was installing a NOS AC system I would get a R-134 receiver drier, R-134 seals for the hoses **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 08:22:10 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:22:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <471534970902230722s62089ed6l30414c2760f6bae5@mail.gmail.com> So, I know the environmntalists will show up at my door after stating this. You can buy R-12 at just about any hardware store in Mexico. If you have the old recharge line connectors the cans were only something like $12.00 usd. I used to take my old 944 over the border to recharge it & eat some tacos. But I'm close to Mexico. Jody On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 8:14 AM, wrote: > One more consideration. There will be some loss of capacity when > substituting R-134a for R-12. Just to get an argument started, I would estimate about > 10% & you will need every BTU of cooling you can get in a Healey. > > Gary Hodson > > > > In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:10:02 P.M. Central Standard Time, > richard.ewald at gmail.com writes: > > if I was installing a NOS AC system I > would get a R-134 receiver drier, R-134 seals for the hoses > > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID > %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From rpmengr at bellsouth.net Mon Feb 23 08:28:44 2009 From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:28:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] classic car films Message-ID: <49A2C0AC.8080100@bellsouth.net> How about the race scene at the end of "On the Beach" which takes place down under. Bob BN1 From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Feb 23 08:37:38 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:37:38 EST Subject: [Healeys] Films Message-ID: To truly understand what it's like to be the spouse of a car club nut: Nominees in the vintage category have to include: Genevieve: two couples participate in the 1954 London to Brighton run. The background scenes of cars in the English countryside, parked in Pub forecourts, a lorry full of Morris Minors, etc. is worth one whole run-through of the movie. Your wife will be cheering for the women who put up with all this madness. The Green Helmet, with great scenes of road racing in the '50s. And another one in the "watch it with your wife car films:" A Man and A Woman: built around the 1964 Monte Carlo rally, with the rally scenes taken from original footage of the event. Gary ************** Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 23 08:42:25 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:42:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <471534970902230722s62089ed6l30414c2760f6bae5@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902230722s62089ed6l30414c2760f6bae5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49A2C3E1.3080604@chello.nl> Lucky you! Kees Oudesluijs Jody Kerr schreef: > So, I know the environmntalists will show up at my door after stating this. > > You can buy R-12 at just about any hardware store in Mexico. If you > have the old recharge line connectors the cans were only something > like $12.00 usd. I used to take my old 944 over the border to recharge > it & eat some tacos. But I'm close to Mexico. > > Jody > > On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 8:14 AM, wrote: > >> One more consideration. There will be some loss of capacity when >> substituting R-134a for R-12. Just to get an argument started, I would estimate about >> 10% & you will need every BTU of cooling you can get in a Healey. >> >> Gary Hodson >> >> >> >> In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:10:02 P.M. Central Standard Time, >> richard.ewald at gmail.com writes: >> >> if I was installing a NOS AC system I >> would get a R-134 receiver drier, R-134 seals for the hoses >> >> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy >> steps! >> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID >> %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From dphilippo at gtp-eng.com Mon Feb 23 09:22:42 2009 From: dphilippo at gtp-eng.com (Drew Philippo, P.E.) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:22:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Imports Message-ID: <006701c995d2$f4b7b240$de2716c0$@com> This question is for those in the US who have ordered parts directly from the suppliers in Great Britain. What type of import duty should I expect to pay and how does that work. I am looking into buying a Bell SS exhaust for my BJ8 to replace my currently leaking SS Falcon exhaust (too thin material on the ends of the silencers have caused the ends to fail). The price and shipping seem reasonable given the exchange rate but I want to make sure that I'm taking into account any and all costs. The shipping would be by FEDEX. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure that the shipper can probably help me with this but I figured if I ask here I should get the full information and share it with others as well. Many thanks, Drew Philippo 65 BJ8 From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Mon Feb 23 09:45:28 2009 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:45:28 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan References: <48720d20902230635h129dd01aj1a69577e1ce3bc3b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20B079D3C9264CA9A7C1EE6A58F112CA@ClassicCarWorld.local> Hi Jack, I fitted a 14" fan to my BJ8 a while back and was asked by someone how I did it. I produced the following instructions and images to describe the process. Please see the following link: http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/healey/Healey_Fan_fitting_Instructions.pdf I hope this helps, drop me an e-mail if you need clarification on anything. Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay Director Classic-Car-World Ltd 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 2:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan > Yesterday was the Chicagoland MG clubs autojumble. I found a great deal on > an aftermarket electric fan, but didn't buy it. It was a 10" for an MG. > The > reason I didn't buy it was because I didn't know what size fan would b e > proper for a BT7,and didn't want to get one too small. It is better tor > have > the right size, rather than a great deal. > > I would like to hear from any folks who have install an electric fan, > particularly what size I need. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk > > http://www.team.net/archive From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Feb 23 09:48:59 2009 From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:48:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502A7E@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local> The Vintage Air catalog says the condenser generally should be enlarged by 20% when converting to 134A. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From pyoas at yahoo.com Mon Feb 23 09:58:15 2009 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:58:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey Message-ID: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The race scene is good but Ava Gardner blasting through the country side in her Healey with "sound" is equally impressive. Ava Gardner is even better than the Healey!! If nothing else, the movies plot is excellent even if the outcome is depressing. Makes you think!! Patrick Message: 10 Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:28:44 -0500 From: Bob Memler Subject: [Healeys] classic car films To: Healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <49A2C0AC.8080100 at bellsouth.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed How about the race scene at the end of "On the Beach" which takes place down under. Bob BN1 From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Mon Feb 23 10:07:42 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 12:07:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Center console BJ8 Message-ID: Hello Folks, I have a new metal center console and don't have the original. Can someone give me an idea how far from the top edge the holes are for the chrome trim? I have viewed a video from Moss Motors about covering the console, unfortunately they gloss over the subject. They basically give you a before/after treatment with no content. I'm just guessing but does one: 1. Put the sides on over the foam and overlap the top by some amount 2. Cover the top 3. Run a razor down a line directly under where the chrome strip will go ????????? Thanks for your help Wes Keyes York, Maine From dan at warner-associates.com Mon Feb 23 10:15:54 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:15:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Imports In-Reply-To: <006701c995d2$f4b7b240$de2716c0$@com> Message-ID: You can buy that Bell in the US at Engel Imports in Kalamazoo Michigan (better price for shops) and also British Car Specialists. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Drew Philippo, P.E. Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:23 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Imports This question is for those in the US who have ordered parts directly from the suppliers in Great Britain. What type of import duty should I expect to pay and how does that work. I am looking into buying a Bell SS exhaust for my BJ8 to replace my currently leaking SS Falcon exhaust (too thin material on the ends of the silencers have caused the ends to fail). The price and shipping seem reasonable given the exchange rate but I want to make sure that I'm taking into account any and all costs. The shipping would be by FEDEX. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure that the shipper can probably help me with this but I figured if I ask here I should get the full information and share it with others as well. Many thanks, Drew Philippo 65 BJ8 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive From lelle at lellesgarage.com Mon Feb 23 10:52:11 2009 From: lelle at lellesgarage.com (Lennart Nystedt) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 18:52:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Message-ID: <49A2E24B.1010104@lellesgarage.com> There is just one: Blues Brothers.......... Regards Lennart Nystedt Stockholm Sweden From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 10:58:00 2009 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:58:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <49A2E24B.1010104@lellesgarage.com> References: <49A2E24B.1010104@lellesgarage.com> Message-ID: <471534970902230958i466a1a29oef7e435c4e1c8c59@mail.gmail.com> "New Oldsmobiles are in early this year" Classic classic flick. On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 10:52 AM, Lennart Nystedt wrote: > There is just one: > > Blues Brothers.......... > > > Regards > Lennart Nystedt > Stockholm > Sweden > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From shop at justbrits.com Mon Feb 23 10:58:42 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:58:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air conditioning? In-Reply-To: <471534970902230722s62089ed6l30414c2760f6bae5@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <> And IT IS getting "closer" to YOU, Jody !!! I have a customer/buddy in El Paso the lives just inside NM and that is what he tells me!! I stopped and met him during the trip back from Orange Co., CA to Chi. picking up my 'new' Camino (wrote the trip off ) and his words were quite evident!! Ed From Editorgary at aol.com Mon Feb 23 11:06:46 2009 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:06:46 EST Subject: [Healeys] Films: Healeys in On the Beach Message-ID: In a message dated 2/23/09 8:51:44 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > How about the race scene at the end of "On the Beach" which takes place > down under. > Bob > BN1 > Great racing scenes filmed in California, and Astaire committing suicide in my idea of the appropriate way to bring a desired end to one's life. Also remember that the Gregory Peck's love interest in Oz drives a 100-six without the heater option. In one scene they arrive at a country inn in pouring rain, with the side curtains and top on. In the penultimate scene, she is standing next to the car with the top stowed, while she watches the submarine head under the bridge (was this Sydney? I can't remember) and out to sea. If you freeze frame and zoom in, you can see that where there would normally be a heater control panel, there's just an Austin-Healey trim panel. (This is what concours guys do when their wife is reaching for the second Kleenex box. Cheers gary ************** Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Feb 23 11:10:14 2009 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:10:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902230958i466a1a29oef7e435c4e1c8c59@mail.gmail.com> References: <49A2E24B.1010104@lellesgarage.com> <471534970902230958i466a1a29oef7e435c4e1c8c59@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Has anyone mentioned "Two for the Roak" with Audry Hepburn and Albert Finney. Great movie with an MG TD (burns up) and a Mercedes. Timless story and great roads of Europe. Rich Kahn > Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:58:00 -0700 > From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com > To: lelle at lellesgarage.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > > "New Oldsmobiles are in early this year" > > Classic classic flick. > > On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 10:52 AM, Lennart Nystedt > wrote: > > There is just one: > > > > Blues Brothers.......... > > > > > > Regards > > Lennart Nystedt > > Stockholm > > Sweden > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > -- > http://www.theymightberacing.com/ > 1953 Studebaker Champion > 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) > 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) > http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! > > "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn > from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent > disinclination to do so." > --Douglas Adams > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 022009 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 23 11:26:44 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 19:26:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <20B079D3C9264CA9A7C1EE6A58F112CA@ClassicCarWorld.local> References: <48720d20902230635h129dd01aj1a69577e1ce3bc3b@mail.gmail.com> <20B079D3C9264CA9A7C1EE6A58F112CA@ClassicCarWorld.local> Message-ID: <49A2EA64.3050904@chello.nl> A nice and neat mod. To prevent possible fatigue fracture and vibrations you could spot weld a small L-shaped profile over the full length on the top/bottom of the mounting brackets. The brackets as they are look a bit fragile to me. Make shure you seal the fan shroud to the radiator core using foam tape or similar, so all displaced air is forced through the radiator. Kees Oudesluijs Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd schreef: > Hi Jack, I fitted a 14" fan to my BJ8 a while back and was asked by > someone how I did it. I produced the following instructions and images > to describe the process. > > Please see the following link: > > http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/healey/Healey_Fan_fitting_Instructions.pdf > > > I hope this helps, drop me an e-mail if you need clarification on > anything. > > Kindest Regards > > Tom > Tom McCay Director Classic-Car-World Ltd 32 Washingborough Road > Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) > enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com > > Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 > 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and > Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" > > To: > Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 2:35 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Aftermarket Electric Fan > > >> Yesterday was the Chicagoland MG clubs autojumble. I found a great >> deal on >> an aftermarket electric fan, but didn't buy it. It was a 10" for an >> MG. The >> reason I didn't buy it was because I didn't know what size fan would b e >> proper for a BT7,and didn't want to get one too small. It is better >> tor have >> the right size, rather than a great deal. >> >> I would like to hear from any folks who have install an electric fan, >> particularly what size I need. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From quenty at ntelos.net Mon Feb 23 11:57:22 2009 From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:57:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Windshield Message-ID: <696301D8-7924-417B-9C6A-495091716FA6@ntelos.net> I have started to assemble my windshield and upon unwrapping and cleaning up my old glass I found there was a yellow stain about a 1/2' all around the edges. This looks like it was caused by the old seal and apparently is on the plastic between the glass. If I slide the glass toward the top the lower corners are inside the frame. Any ideas to get rid of the yellow, or recommendations on where to get a new wind shield? Thanks, Dave and Daisy From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 23 12:04:51 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 20:04:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Windshield In-Reply-To: <696301D8-7924-417B-9C6A-495091716FA6@ntelos.net> References: <696301D8-7924-417B-9C6A-495091716FA6@ntelos.net> Message-ID: <49A2F353.90002@chello.nl> You will not be able to remove the yellow staining of the plastic layer of a laminated screen. If it is only 1/2" around the rim it would nearly all be covered bij the rubber seal. It is an old car so I would not bother to put in a new windscreen, but put back in the old windscreen. Looks more authentic. Kees Oudesluijs David Schweninger schreef: > I have started to assemble my windshield and upon unwrapping and > cleaning up my old glass I found there was a yellow stain about a 1/2' > all around the edges. > This looks like it was caused by the old seal and apparently is on the > plastic between the glass. > If I slide the glass toward the top the lower corners are inside the > frame. > Any ideas to get rid of the yellow, or recommendations on where to > get a new wind shield? > > Thanks, > Dave and Daisy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 23 12:51:45 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:51:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Windshield In-Reply-To: <696301D8-7924-417B-9C6A-495091716FA6@ntelos.net> Message-ID: Dave, What you have is a discoloration of the polyvinyl butyryl interlayer between the two layers of glass. The yellow is simply a result of the aging process associated with "vinyl". To my knowledge, there is no means of restoring the vinyl to it's original clear appearance. Hopefully, most of the discoloration will be covered by the windshield frame. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Schweninger Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 12:57 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Windshield I have started to assemble my windshield and upon unwrapping and cleaning up my old glass I found there was a yellow stain about a 1/2' all around the edges. This looks like it was caused by the old seal and apparently is on the plastic between the glass. If I slide the glass toward the top the lower corners are inside the frame. Any ideas to get rid of the yellow, or recommendations on where to get a new wind shield? Thanks, Dave and Daisy From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Mon Feb 23 12:59:50 2009 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 12:59:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Films In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What about the all time classic- Chitty Chtty Bang Bang - What could be better than an old thirties race car that can fly and you can get a Corgi repro. My kids love it. Just don't let your friends know you are watching it as it is a musical.:) Another 1 star classic Those Daring Young Men in Their Jaunty Jalopies (Monte Carlo or Bust) ----- Original Message ----- From: Editorgary at aol.com Date: Monday, February 23, 2009 8:38 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Films To: healeys at autox.team.net > To truly understand what it's like to be the spouse of a car > club nut: > > Nominees in the vintage category have to include: > > Genevieve: two couples participate in the 1954 London to > Brighton run. The > background scenes of cars in the English countryside, parked in > Pub forecourts, > a lorry full of Morris Minors, etc. is worth one whole run- > through of the > movie. Your wife will be cheering for the women who put up with > all this madness. > > The Green Helmet, with great scenes of road racing in the '50s. > > And another one in the "watch it with your wife car films:" > > A Man and A Woman: built around the 1964 Monte Carlo rally, with > the rally > scenes taken from original footage of the event. > > Gary > > > > > > ************** > Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your > neighborhood today. > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rvmaylor at shaw.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 15:39:44 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 06:39:44 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Imports In-Reply-To: <006701c995d2$f4b7b240$de2716c0$@com> References: <006701c995d2$f4b7b240$de2716c0$@com> Message-ID: Drew - Do not import anything into the US using Fed Ex or UPS. It will intentionally get held up at customs (protectionist procedure to support the US post office). Have them send it to you using Parcel Force (UK Post, but with tracking numbers) - stuff that comes by post never gets held up in customs and never gets dutied. Even if dutied I think the rate is 1% or something silly like that. I do it ALL the time. Alan On 2/24/09, Drew Philippo, P.E. wrote: > This question is for those in the US who have ordered parts directly from > the suppliers in Great Britain. What type of import duty should I expect to > pay and how does that work. I am looking into buying a Bell SS exhaust for > my BJ8 to replace my currently leaking SS Falcon exhaust (too thin material > on the ends of the silencers have caused the ends to fail). The price and > shipping seem reasonable given the exchange rate but I want to make sure > that I'm taking into account any and all costs. The shipping would be by > FEDEX. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure that the shipper > can probably help me with this but I figured if I ask here I should get the > full information and share it with others as well. > > > > Many thanks, > > Drew Philippo > > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Feb 23 16:25:18 2009 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 09:25:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Films In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: G'day all I'm surprised nobody's mentioned "The Fast and the Furious" - not the recent CGI crap but the 1955 John Ireland/Dorothy Malone movie. I reckon it's one of the best for classic car spotting. The plot isn't up to much but it's centred on the "International" race from California to Mexico. The main protagonists are in white (roadster) and black (dark anyway - it's a b&w movie) drophead XK120s. But there's also a 100, Nash Healey, Aston DB2, MGTD, TR2, several Allard J2X, (the heroine commandeers one at one point - as you do!) Kurtis, Jowett Jupiter, Porche Speedster etc etc. Some of the film appears to be genuine race footage judging by the "offs"! There's even a vintage race (Bearcats or something similar) One to watch with your finger on the "pause" button! Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 From glembotski at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 23 18:02:10 2009 From: glembotski at sbcglobal.net (glembotski at sbcglobal.net) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 17:02:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <007101c9961b$85f2e020$210110ac@JOHNNY> No body mentioned The Racers 1955 with Kirk Douglas, The Green Helmet, and of course the Rendezvous with the Ferrari V-12 ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary brierton" To: "Jody Kerr" ; "healeys" Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 2:13 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > Be sure to browse through http://www.imcdb.org when making your list. > GaryB > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Jody Kerr" > Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 11:55 PM > To: "Healey Mail List" > Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as glembotski at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rnbmail at yahoo.com Mon Feb 23 22:42:48 2009 From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 21:42:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil Choice - More trivia... Message-ID: <574528.62708.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi All, I happened to be at Kragens Auto today and decided to pick up a couple of spare quarts of engine oil - Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing - same as I currently use. FYI, I noticed something new - a nice yellow add-on sticker attached to each quart plastic bottle that said "High Zinc - Great for pushrod and flat tappet engines" I was encouraged by a meaningful marketing message.... Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 23 23:11:31 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 17:11:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey In-Reply-To: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <60654897DB3B4951A64D814764AF2051@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day I was even more depressing that it was set in Melbourne. Ava Gardner was correct when she said it was the perfect city to make a film about the end of the world. The race scene was shown as taking place in Australia, but was actually shot in California. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick Yoas Sent: Tuesday, 24 February 2009 3:58 AM To: Healey Forum Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey The race scene is good but Ava Gardner blasting through the country side in her Healey with "sound" is equally impressive. Ava Gardner is even better than the Healey!! If nothing else, the movies plot is excellent even if the outcome is depressing. Makes you think!! Patrick Message: 10 Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:28:44 -0500 From: Bob Memler Subject: [Healeys] classic car films To: Healeys at autox.team.net Message-ID: <49A2C0AC.8080100 at bellsouth.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed How about the race scene at the end of "On the Beach" which takes place down under. Bob BN1 From ktee20 at gmail.com Tue Feb 24 00:35:20 2009 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:35:20 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey In-Reply-To: <60654897DB3B4951A64D814764AF2051@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <60654897DB3B4951A64D814764AF2051@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <5a607cf80902232335t4720d56cu63d15782af5e548a@mail.gmail.com> ON THE BEACH .....AAH....Read the book The movie script was crap ( Ava & Healey excepted ) " The last world Grand Prix " Nevill Shutes AVRO ANSON engine powering a straight line special into oblivion has stayed with me "forever" probably why II haven't grown up This book leaves Biggles for dead. If you do not read this book I will come over there and tear your bloody head off No commercial interest , Just a besotted teenager Keith Taylor Wamberal OZ BN1 BN2 100M.....if I ever finish them 2009/2/24 Patrick and Caroline Quinn > G'day > > I was even more depressing that it was set in Melbourne. Ava Gardner was > correct when she said it was the perfect city to make a film about the end > of the world. > > The race scene was shown as taking place in Australia, but was actually > shot > in California. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Patrick Yoas > Sent: Tuesday, 24 February 2009 3:58 AM > To: Healey Forum > Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey > > The race scene is good but Ava Gardner blasting through the country side in > her Healey with "sound" is equally impressive. Ava Gardner is even better > than > the Healey!! If nothing else, the movies plot is excellent even if the > outcome > is depressing. Makes you think!! > Patrick > > Message: 10 > Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:28:44 -0500 > From: Bob Memler > Subject: [Healeys] classic car films > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <49A2C0AC.8080100 at bellsouth.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed > > How about the race scene at the end of "On the Beach" which takes place > down under. > Bob > BN1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 24 00:48:33 2009 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:48:33 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey In-Reply-To: <5a607cf80902232335t4720d56cu63d15782af5e548a@mail.gmail.com> References: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com><60654897DB3B4951A64D814764AF2051@PatrickQuinnPC> <5a607cf80902232335t4720d56cu63d15782af5e548a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: G'day Keith You're dead right. Neville Shute's book was far better than the film. I went through a stage of reading every Neville Shute book I could find. My favourite was "Trustee from the Toolroom". All of Shute's books left Biggles for dead. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of keith taylor Sent: Tuesday, 24 February 2009 6:35 PM To: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey ON THE BEACH .....AAH....Read the book The movie script was crap ( Ava & Healey excepted ) " The last world Grand Prix " Nevill Shutes AVRO ANSON engine powering a straight line special into oblivion has stayed with me "forever" probably why II haven't grown up This book leaves Biggles for dead. If you do not read this book I will come over there and tear your bloody head off No commercial interest , Just a besotted teenager Keith Taylor Wamberal OZ BN1 BN2 100M.....if I ever finish them 2009/2/24 Patrick and Caroline Quinn From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Feb 24 09:58:11 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 16:58:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?motor_oil?= Message-ID: <20090224165811.32530.qmail@server278.com> could someone tell me why that gasoline prices have fallen quite a bit but motor oil is still priced around $3.00 or so a quart. is this market manipulation or just selling off the old stuff they bought at a high price. should not it be coming down to a reasonable price soon? hjim From mkgoodman at att.net Tue Feb 24 10:42:26 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 12:42:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rivet-less Rotors Message-ID: <004201c996a7$42541000$c6fc3000$@net> I found out today that Jeff at Advanced Distributors now has a Rotor for our distributors that is minus the holding rivet and is made of plastic without the conductive black carbon. I have no financial interest, but after having my 3000 towed due to 2 defective rotors, I feel it necessary to let others know about this. Here is the link: http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/84779/6-Cylinder-ignition-rot or_422544.html Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From bighealey at charter.net Tue Feb 24 13:05:33 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 12:05:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rivet-less Rotors In-Reply-To: <004201c996a7$42541000$c6fc3000$@net> Message-ID: <20090224150533.LIDTN.680272.root@mp08> Highly recommended. Jeff is a straight shooter. ---- Mark Goodman wrote: > I found out today that Jeff at Advanced Distributors now has a Rotor for our > distributors that is minus the holding rivet and is made of plastic without > the conductive black carbon. I have no financial interest, but after having > my 3000 towed due to 2 defective rotors, I feel it necessary to let others > know about this. > > Here is the link: > > http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/84779/6-Cylinder-ignition-rot > or_422544.html > > > Mark Goodman > 66 BJ8 35503 > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ynotink at msn.com Tue Feb 24 17:33:59 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 00:33:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey In-Reply-To: References: <427091.46904.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com><60654897DB3B4951A64D814764AF2051@PatrickQuinnPC> <5a607cf80902232335t4720d56cu63d15782af5e548a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Amen! What he said. Neville Shute was the best. Bill Lawrence > > > You're dead right. Neville Shute's book was far better than the film. > > I went through a stage of reading every Neville Shute book I could find. My > favourite was "Trustee from the Toolroom". > > All of Shute's books left Biggles for dead. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of keith taylor > Sent: Tuesday, 24 February 2009 6:35 PM > To: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] On The Beach - Ava Gardner in Healey > > ON THE BEACH .....AAH....Read the book The movie script was crap > ( Ava & Healey excepted ) > " The last world Grand Prix " Nevill Shutes AVRO ANSON engine powering a > straight line special into oblivion has stayed with me "forever" probably > why II haven't grown up > This book leaves Biggles for dead. > > If you do not read this book I will come over there and tear your bloody > head off > > No commercial interest , Just a besotted teenager > > Keith Taylor > Wamberal OZ > > BN1 > BN2 > 100M.....if I ever finish them > > 2009/2/24 Patrick and Caroline Quinn > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Feb 24 18:11:27 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:11:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100 Water Pump Core In-Reply-To: <20090224165811.32530.qmail@server278.com> References: <20090224165811.32530.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <89267F45138F405B913CE7D6FD6F5535@GregPC> I have a water pump core (needs rebuilt, no pulley) for a 100 if someone is interested, not a bad thing to rebuild and carry around as a spare (ask me how I know, or having said that you probably don't need to ask) reasonable before I E-bay it. Greg Lemon From shop at justbrits.com Tue Feb 24 18:52:46 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:52:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Great Fun w/o sex Message-ID: Gun LOVERS "HEAVEN" ~~~~ Gwad I would LOVE to go !!!!! http://tinyurl.com/cue5al OR http://g4tv.com/attackoftheshow/exclusives/64615/OFASTS -Gun-Apocalypse.html Me From ktee20 at gmail.com Tue Feb 24 20:06:02 2009 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:06:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Great Fun w/o sex In-Reply-To: <5a607cf80902241904q14171d0fmc2611e7601eec4aa@mail.gmail.com> References: <5a607cf80902241904q14171d0fmc2611e7601eec4aa@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5a607cf80902241906v31275ea5p2fa847bc28be1a7@mail.gmail.com> This stuff mounted front and rear on the Healey would guarantee a GP win > in > "THE LAST RACE".... ( Re " On the Beach" thread ) Any offers for > co-driver. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > BN1 > BN2 > 100M......Must finish before the Apocalypse > > 2009/2/25 Ed's Shop > > Gun LOVERS "HEAVEN" ~~~~ Gwad I would LOVE to go >> !!!!! >> >> http://tinyurl.com/cue5al >> >> OR >> >> >> http://g4tv.com/attackoftheshow/exclusives/64615/OFASTS >> -Gun-Apocalypse.html >> >> Me >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as ktee20 at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From tdrech at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 24 22:22:20 2009 From: tdrech at sbcglobal.net (Tom Rech) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 23:22:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Jump starting a pos. earth car using a neg. earth car Message-ID: <500E9A579C8545EDBF76301577BA5EB0@RECH2001> I've done the prerequisite searching and can't find any information on this subject. I'm thinking it can be done, but you must isolate the battery in the neg. earth car before connecting pos. to pos. and neg. to neg. as always. Anybody know the proper procedure? From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 24 23:10:15 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:10:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Jump starting a pos. earth car using a neg. earth car In-Reply-To: <500E9A579C8545EDBF76301577BA5EB0@RECH2001> References: <500E9A579C8545EDBF76301577BA5EB0@RECH2001> Message-ID: Just connect the + terminal to + terminal, and - to -. With modern maintenance free batteries the chance of problems associated with attaching jump cables terminal to terminal is very small. If you are worried, you can attach the positive jumper to the chassis of your + ground car if it is receiving the juice. Don't touch one car with one hand and the other with the other at the same time!!!!!!! Alan On 2/25/09, Tom Rech wrote: > I've done the prerequisite searching and can't find any information on this > subject. I'm thinking it can be done, but you must isolate the battery in > the neg. earth car before connecting pos. to pos. and neg. to neg. as > always. Anybody know the proper procedure? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From britishcars at shaw.ca Tue Feb 24 23:29:22 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 22:29:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In-Reply-To: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <703902.96814.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8472B6383B224734B5E043577853A42B@ecarecenters.net> Hi Jorge, I installed mine today....seemed to go fine however, with respect to the lower bolt, I reversed the direction. Ie: instead of the bolt facing forward with the nut on the engine side, I had to reverse the bolt direction and have the nut on the transmission side. Paul -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:56 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca http://www.team.net/archive From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 25 00:06:05 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 01:06:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Jump starting a pos. earth car using a neg. earth car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <> Absolutely CORRECT, gents. <> There is no prob possible UNLESS cable(s) insulation(s) have BARED TO THE WIRE probs. <> NO. Begging for "electronic(s)" 'oops' (remote but possible). <> Possible, I suppose. One more thing. Do NOT let (if by chance both cars chromed bumpered) touch each other. Zero 'metal-to-metal' contact allowed. + to + = + - to - = - K.I.S.S. Rule and it ALWAYS works! Ed PS: When all else fails, CHECK THE ARCHIVES as this subject MUST have a bazillion entries!! From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 25 06:33:55 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 21:33:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor Advance Curve Data Message-ID: All - I have installed a Pertronix 4 cyl distributor on my A90 and a 6 cyl distributor on my Jag Mk IX with very good results. The only limitation with these distributors is that the advance curve and vacuum advance are fixed, unlike the 123 dizzy. Generally speaking I figured this wasn't a big deal for my daily drivers, but I was still curious about the advance curves. The curves do seem to roughly follow the Lucas curves for the Big Healeys, although the Vacuum advance seems to be about 30% more agressive for most applications except the BN1/BN2. I've passed the charts to John Sims so that he can post on his website (if he has the time!). Let me know if you want the data. Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 25 06:37:51 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 07:37:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Jump starting a pos. earth car using a neg. earth car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: " One more thing. Do NOT let (if by chance both cars chromed bumpered) touch each other. Zero 'metal-to-metal' contact allowed." I had a '66 Sprite in High School, my brother had a later Sprite that was negative ground, the '66 was always a "hard starter" in the winter. So it would get jumped by the '68 on a regular basis, one time the cars were close and the bumpers touched while elctrically connected. Big impressive sparks but no damage. Yes, just match the polarity up and it should work fine. Greg Lemon From healey100m at gmail.com Wed Feb 25 06:38:04 2009 From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:38:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop Message-ID: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) ebay Item number: 250379327480 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan-The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250379327480&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1153wt_1023 Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Feb 25 06:50:35 2009 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:50:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1958 100-6 BN4 Message-ID: <000001c99750$092f9160$1b8eb420$@net> I have no financial interest in this car, but it is still available and Paul does have images that he can forward to someone who is interested. It is a good car for someone looking to have a 100-6 driver with little work. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From: cudo55 at aol.com [mailto:cudo55 at aol.com] Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 10:13 PM To: mkgoodman at att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1958 100-6 BN4 Regards, Paul My cell # is 917-817-3974. I bought this beauty in 1968 from the original owner, a Brit who kept it immaculate. I have been the only driver for 40 years, and it has always been garaged. One paint job in 20 yrs. It has a fiberglass top; no rag top or frame for same. Rust free, needs very minor body work, & the paint is quite acceptably good. Interior is practically new. It is in excellent running condition. E-mail for further details. -----Original Message----- From: Mark Goodman To: cudo55 at aol.com Sent: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 10:25 am Subject: FW: [Healeys] 1958 100-6 BN4 Paul, This was from a Healey List person in Southern California. You should have no problem selling the car, so if it is rust free, then hold your price. Can you send me images? Mark From: PhilRitten at aol.com [ mailto:PhilRitten at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:02 AM To: mkgoodman at att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1958 100-6 BN4 I'm sort of intrigued as I have a '58 BN4. _____ Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! _____ McCain or Obama? Stay up to date on the latest from the campaign trail with AOL News. From larryrph at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 25 06:51:32 2009 From: larryrph at sbcglobal.net (Lawrence Wysocki) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 05:51:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <160024.89400.qm@web83404.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I think the seller is confused by the fact that the Metropolitan had an Austin Motor Company engine LarryWysocki 1958 BN 6 --- On Wed, 2/25/09, Randy Hicks wrote: From: Randy Hicks Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop To: "Healey List" Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 7:38 AM Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) ebay Item number: 250379327480 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan- The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcm dZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250379327480&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_tr kparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1153wt_1023 Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as larryrph at sbcglobal.net http://www.team.net/archive From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 25 06:53:25 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:53:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> References: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <49A54D55.5000203@chello.nl> Nash Metropolitan I believe. Kees Oudesluijs Randy Hicks schreef: > Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) > > ebay Item number: 250379327480 > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan-The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250379327480&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1153wt_1023 > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > '56 100M > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Feb 25 06:54:20 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:54:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> References: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500541EFA4@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> At least its got the right glove box lock for the BJ8. But is the original still there on this car? Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Randy Hicks Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Februar 2009 14:38 An: Healey List Betreff: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) ebay Item number: 250379327480 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan- The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcm dZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250379327480&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_tr kparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1%%3A1318#ht_1153wt_1023 Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com _________________________ From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Feb 25 07:20:32 2009 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:20:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500541EFA4@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> References: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500541EFA4@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Message-ID: <760DF89CBF85443A864E959B91CC95F3@GregPC> Simple mistake--or clever marketing ploy using the Healey name to up the image of the lowly commuter Nash? Who knows?, motor is from an MGA--so calling it an AH is just not right. Greg Lemon From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Feb 25 07:28:55 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 09:28:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor Advance Curve Data Message-ID: <031501c99755$63cc5680$2b650380$@net> Posted on the site in the Technical Page John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 8:34 AM To: Healey; John Sims Subject: Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor Advance Curve Data All - I have installed a Pertronix 4 cyl distributor on my A90 and a 6 cyl distributor on my Jag Mk IX with very good results. The only limitation with these distributors is that the advance curve and vacuum advance are fixed, unlike the 123 dizzy. Generally speaking I figured this wasn't a big deal for my daily drivers, but I was still curious about the advance curves. The curves do seem to roughly follow the Lucas curves for the Big Healeys, although the Vacuum advance seems to be about 30% more agressive for most applications except the BN1/BN2. I've passed the charts to John Sims so that he can post on his website (if he has the time!). Let me know if you want the data. Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From tdrech at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 25 07:36:45 2009 From: tdrech at sbcglobal.net (Tom Rech) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:36:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Jump starting a pos. earth car using a neg. earth car Message-ID: <1955E8A751194A1298378CF6863CAE78@RECH2001> Thanks to all who replied. BTW, Ed, the Healeys archive was the first place I looked. Tried searching several different ways, and all I could come up with was pos. to neg. conversion posts! Thanks again. Tom R. From larryrph at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 25 08:39:59 2009 From: larryrph at sbcglobal.net (Lawrence Wysocki) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 07:39:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <760DF89CBF85443A864E959B91CC95F3@GregPC> Message-ID: <237023.64540.qm@web83405.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Greg, The engine was an Austin Motors engine I don't know who manufactured the MGA engine. I owned a Metropolitan for about 10 years in the 90's and it was a very simple car and a lot of fun to drive. The most unique feature was it was almost identical in appearance to the regular Nash cars made at that time but was about 2/3 the size I think the posting on ebay was a simple mistake-something like punching up "Austin - Healey related items " The price on ebay is totally ridicuilous! Larry Wysocki 1958 BN 6 --- On Wed, 2/25/09, Greg Lemon wrote: From: Greg Lemon Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com, Healeys at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 8:20 AM Simple mistake--or clever marketing ploy using the Healey name to up the image of the lowly commuter Nash? Who knows?, motor is from an MGA--so calling it an AH is just not right. Greg Lemon Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as larryrph at sbcglobal.net http://www.team.net/archive From peter.svilans at rogers.com Wed Feb 25 11:55:19 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 13:55:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan Message-ID: <003001c9977a$9af1ec40$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> The Met's engine was rather more tame than the MGA's. The first Metropolitans were fitted with the Austin-built A-Series OHV 1200cc motor from the Austin A-40 Somerset, and produced 42 bhp. (The A-40 Somerset was itself a slightly stronger version of the 1947 A-40 Devon, with 40 bhp- hence the name). Austin and Morris merged in 1952, and the new "corporate" BMC B-Series 1500 engine of late 1953 was first used in the MG ZA Magnette. The Metropolitan was fitted with a 1200 cc version of this new engine, as was the Austin A-40 Cambridge. It still produced 42 bhp but was a better engine. In 1956 the Metropolitan, as well as the A-50 Cambridge, were offered with the new 1500 engine, making 50 bhp, but the smaller displacement engine was still available for the Met parallel to the 1500 engine until 1957. This ran until 1959. The last Mets to 1962 had the 52 bhp version of the 1500 motor used in the A-55 Cambridge. In comparison, the MG marque had a rather more sporting image to uphold, and the same B-Series 1500 engine produced 60 bhp in the ZA Magnette and 68 bhp in the first model of MGA. Best Peter From f9cougar at yahoo.com Wed Feb 25 12:40:28 2009 From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:40:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop In-Reply-To: <10BCCF86-F89D-449C-8FAA-2413057F478E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <343165.1035.qm@web34803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Drop a big ol' V8 into that sucker. Only thing for it. - JRC --- On Wed, 2/25/09, Randy Hicks wrote: From: Randy Hicks Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Hardtop To: "Healey List" Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 5:38 AM Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) ebay Item number: 250379327480 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan-The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item250379327480&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1153wt_1023 Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as f9cougar at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From ktee20 at gmail.com Wed Feb 25 14:54:02 2009 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 08:54:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] CASTING NUMBERS Message-ID: <5a607cf80902251354o7d473c8ct1dec68146cacd8d@mail.gmail.com> What are the correct casting numbers for BN1 and BN2 heads THANKS Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1 BN2 100M.......if* ever finish them* From shop at justbrits.com Wed Feb 25 20:10:28 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 21:10:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: [Mgs] Need an independant inspector to look at an MG in the Deltona, Florida area. Message-ID: >From MGs List if anybody can assist !! Ed PS: Reply to Jim NOT me !!! ********************************************************* -----Original Message----- From: James Schulte [mailto:schultejim at msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 8:22 PM To: Mgs at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Need an independant inspector to look at an MG in the Deltona, Florida area. Please get back to me ASAP if you are ready willing and able to look at a 1958 MG Magnette in the Deltona, Florida area. I have a verbal agreement and just need some one to verify what pictures show as a outstanding rebuild. Jim Schulte Aquatic Coordinator Souderton Area S.D. Former Secretary of the Philadelphia MG Club You are subscribed as shop at justbrits.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Feb 25 22:27:17 2009 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 21:27:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Rebuild Message-ID: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> Ok..I've rebuilt a transmission and overdrive to replace the one in my BJ8..back to front..all new bearings, first gear, idler, thrust bushings etc etc. I pulled the existing motor/transmission out of the car today and I need to confirm something with all you wise ones... The old transmission with lots of miles spins freely, easy to turn. By comparison, the rebuilt transmission is "stiff". I'm thinking that because all of the bearings are new in the rebuilt trany, they have not really been broken in oil circulated. But then, I have this whisper in my ear planting seeds of doubt that perhaps, once again, I've screwed up. That maybe the annulus brake on the overdrive is dragging or something. Can anybody out there give me their experience? Thanks Paul From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 26 01:48:51 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:48:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Rebuild In-Reply-To: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> References: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <49A65773.5080104@chello.nl> In general. The rebuild transmission should be a bit stiffer but still fairly easy to turn. If overly stiff something is not right. Hard to say what is to stiff and what is normal in lbf. It is the feel of it. The extra stiffness is also caused by new, tighter seals. If there are any preloaded bearings in the rebuilt gear box these will also be the cause of stiffness. In the old box this preload is practically non existant because of wear/settling. Kees Oudesluijs NL PG schreef: > Ok..I've rebuilt a transmission and overdrive to replace the one in my > BJ8..back to front..all new bearings, first gear, idler, thrust bushings etc > etc. > > > > I pulled the existing motor/transmission out of the car today and I need to > confirm something with all you wise ones... > > > > The old transmission with lots of miles spins freely, easy to turn. By > comparison, the rebuilt transmission is "stiff". > > > > I'm thinking that because all of the bearings are new in the rebuilt trany, > they have not really been broken in oil circulated. But then, I have this > whisper in my ear planting seeds of doubt that perhaps, once again, I've > screwed up. That maybe the annulus brake on the overdrive is dragging or > something. > > > > Can anybody out there give me their experience? > > > > Thanks > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Thu Feb 26 05:34:35 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 07:34:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Rebuild In-Reply-To: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> References: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <1B173765B3264DEE9D71DF896D643207@michael> I'm inclined to suggest that you have some sort of problem. Generally speaking even newly rebuilt transmissions one can turn by hand quite easily in any gear. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: February 26, 2009 12:27 AM To: 'Austin Healey' Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Rebuild Ok..I've rebuilt a transmission and overdrive to replace the one in my BJ8..back to front..all new bearings, first gear, idler, thrust bushings etc etc. I pulled the existing motor/transmission out of the car today and I need to confirm something with all you wise ones... The old transmission with lots of miles spins freely, easy to turn. By comparison, the rebuilt transmission is "stiff". I'm thinking that because all of the bearings are new in the rebuilt trany, they have not really been broken in oil circulated. But then, I have this whisper in my ear planting seeds of doubt that perhaps, once again, I've screwed up. That maybe the annulus brake on the overdrive is dragging or something. Can anybody out there give me their experience? Thanks Paul From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Feb 26 07:24:25 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:24:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket Message-ID: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Hello all, I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a July '54 BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of the right size for the crown pinion end float, available from Spaenaur, the excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there doesn't seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one that would seal the diff body casting to the axle case. I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used this axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? Rich Chrysler From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Feb 26 07:37:37 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:37:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket In-Reply-To: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> References: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500541F3C3@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Hello Rich, The only supplier I found who lists them is SC-Parts/Limora in the UK. Here is the link: http://www.scparts.co.uk/index/lang-2/lkz-195/markenid-1/katnr-1/kat_sprache- 2/hrubnr-12/rubrik-61/index.php?tpl=clickable_vertikal.tpl&teil=23&kat_id=937 9&artikelnr=205243&artikeldetailtop=120 Josef Eckert Konigswinter / GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rich C Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. Februar 2009 15:24 An: Healeys Betreff: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket Hello all, I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a July '54 BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of the right size for the crown pinion end float, available from Spaenaur, the excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there doesn't seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one that would seal the diff body casting to the axle case. I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used this axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? Rich Chrysler __________________ From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 26 07:37:52 2009 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 06:37:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket In-Reply-To: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> References: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <49A6A940.303@comcast.net> Hi Rich, If all else fails, I've had success using "gasket-in-a-can" products. In particular, I've used a product called "Right Stuff" on a couple of diffs (most newer cars don't have a diff drain plug--you have to remove the cover). It appears to be the same/similar to what manufacturers are using on modern cars to seal oil pans, etc. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gaske t_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm -or- http://tinyurl.com/cph33x Bob Rich C wrote: Hello all, I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a July '54 BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of the right size for the crown pinion end float, available from Spaenaur, the excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there doesn't seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one that would seal the diff body casting to the axle case. I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used this axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? Rich Chrysler ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently." - Henry Ford ******************************************************************* From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Feb 26 07:41:31 2009 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:41:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket In-Reply-To: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> References: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: Rich: Check www.ahead4healeys.co.uk they have the part you need, part#RX4010 and its cost is 0.95 pound Jean Caron Winnipeg > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:24:25 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket > > Hello all, > > I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a July '54 > BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of the > right size for the crown pinion end float, available from Spaenaur, the > excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. > > Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there doesn't > seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one that would seal > the diff body casting to the axle case. > > I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used this > axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. > > Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ How fun is this? IMing with Windows Live Messenger just got better. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/products/messenger.aspx From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Feb 26 07:47:03 2009 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:47:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket In-Reply-To: References: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500541F3D9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com> Jean, Sorry, but that is not the one Rich needs. He needs it for the early axle. Josef Eckert Konigswinter / GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jean Caron Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. Februar 2009 15:42 An: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket Rich: Check www.ahead4healeys.co.uk they have the part you need, part#RX4010 and its cost is 0.95 pound Jean Caron Winnipeg > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:24:25 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket > > Hello all, > > I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a > July '54 > BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of > the right size for the crown pinion end float, available from > Spaenaur, the excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. > > Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there > doesn't seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one > that would seal > the diff body casting to the axle case. > > I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used > this axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. > > Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? > > Rich Chrysler From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 26 07:51:44 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:51:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Spiral Bevel Diff Gasket In-Reply-To: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> References: <61761FAC67CB4FC3B03FEFC77576FB4A@ophrdc.org> Message-ID: <49A6AC80.5060907@chello.nl> Rich, Buy a sheet of gasket paper and get out a copper faced hammer. Put the sheet over the diff and beat out the gasket on the rims of the surface to be sealed. Alternatively cut out using scissors, but that is rather difficult. Use a suitably sized steel ball from a ball bearing or simply a hammer with a rounded end and tap out the bolt holes. Kees Oudesluijs NL Rich C schreef: > Hello all, > > I'm continuing work on this early series spiral bevel rear axle for a July '54 > BN1. Thanks to Mike Salter for directing me to some excellent shims of the > right size for the crown pinion end float, available from Spaenaur, the > excellent fastener supply house in Kitchener, Ontario. > > Now everything's going back together and I suddenly discover there doesn't > seem to be a diff gasket available. That's the big round one that would seal > the diff body casting to the axle case. > > I find this rather strange, as some 6000 or so BN1's and the 100S used this > axle, and the 4 bolt hub gasket is readily available. > > Any leads to finding this diff gasket, anybody? > > Rich Chrysler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From edmyed at harbornet.com Thu Feb 26 10:53:03 2009 From: edmyed at harbornet.com (Richard Bittmann) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:53:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BRAKE + CLUTCH RESEVOIR DECALS Message-ID: Brake + Clutch Fluid Resevoir DECALS adhesive backed tape "BRAKE" + "CLUTCH" SEND $2.00 FOR EACH SET TO RECEIVE BY RETURN MAIL to: Richard Bittmann 3320 North 35th Street Tacoma, WA 98407 From bj8Healey at msn.com Thu Feb 26 11:27:04 2009 From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 11:27:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up Message-ID: Greetings all, My last request for information didn't get me too far so I have done some more research and have some more pointed questions which maybe there will be some some base knowledge out there. I am putting driving lights on my BJ8. To date I have gotten as far as having in hand a set of the Cape International light brackets. The correct period lights appear to be the Lucas SFT 700 Fog and SLR 700 flamethrower (I have also seen SLR 700S but do not know the difference). I have also seen a few photos of period cars with CIBIE lights but it seems uncommon. While I want to have a period look I am also looking for utility. 1. It seems from some information that cars were set up with one of each of the lights (fog and driving) identified above. Does anyone know if this was done regularly? 2. I am also looking for the correct lights referenced above. Can anyone recommend a good source for them? 3. I have found no information concerning a premade wiring loom (harness) for installation of lights. Does anyone know of such? Thanks in advance: Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From e-wilkins at cox.net Thu Feb 26 11:37:29 2009 From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 10:37:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BD5E5F7-DB4D-4012-9213-04B8FC3D4E52@cox.net> Yeah, they used 1 of each quite a bit. I have a few 700 size Lucas lamps that I don't need. For a wiring harness pre-made with relays, Pep Boys and/or Kragen stores will have them for "off-road" lights. (that's what I'm using) My car has one of each type of light: http://ewilkins.com/wilko On Feb 26, 2009, at 10:27 AM, James Sailer wrote: > Greetings all, > > My last request for information didn't get me too far so I have > done some more > research and have some more pointed questions which maybe there > will be some > some base knowledge out there. I am putting driving lights on my > BJ8. To > date I have gotten as far as having in hand a set of the Cape > International > light brackets. The correct period lights appear to be the Lucas > SFT 700 Fog > and SLR 700 flamethrower (I have also seen SLR 700S but do not know > the > difference). I have also seen a few photos of period cars with > CIBIE lights > but it seems uncommon. While I want to have a period look I am > also looking > for utility. > > 1. It seems from some information that cars were set up with one > of each of > the lights (fog and driving) identified above. Does anyone know if > this was > done regularly? > > 2. I am also looking for the correct lights referenced above. Can > anyone > recommend a good source for them? > > 3. I have found no information concerning a premade wiring loom > (harness) for > installation of lights. Does anyone know of such? > > Thanks in advance: > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 26 12:00:47 2009 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 11:00:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Rebuild In-Reply-To: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> References: <36B92A091DC945BDA1CA5BAE1E52E470@ecarecenters.net> Message-ID: <25E88B57-B6FC-4E6E-9ADC-39141588466F@sbcglobal.net> There should be almost no resistance to turn either the rear flange or the input shaft. If the rear flange is tight to turn you probably have the adjustments in the overdrive wrong or a bearing in the rear housing is not seated all the way. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 25, 2009, at 9:27 PM, PG wrote: > Ok..I've rebuilt a transmission and overdrive to replace the one in my > BJ8..back to front..all new bearings, first gear, idler, thrust > bushings etc > etc. > > > > I pulled the existing motor/transmission out of the car today and I > need to > confirm something with all you wise ones... > > > > The old transmission with lots of miles spins freely, easy to > turn. By > comparison, the rebuilt transmission is "stiff". > > > > I'm thinking that because all of the bearings are new in the > rebuilt trany, > they have not really been broken in oil circulated. But then, I > have this > whisper in my ear planting seeds of doubt that perhaps, once again, > I've > screwed up. That maybe the annulus brake on the overdrive is > dragging or > something. > > > > Can anybody out there give me their experience? > > > > Thanks > > > > Paul From bighealey at charter.net Thu Feb 26 12:10:16 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:10:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090226141016.4V8F3.1521746.root@mp11> Jim Use a relay. You can get a kit from the off-road folks. Ebay had them for 8$ Included heavy two wire in a plastic sheath, relay and relay socket. ---- James Sailer wrote: > Greetings all, > > My last request for information didn't get me too far so I have done some more > research and have some more pointed questions which maybe there will be some > some base knowledge out there. I am putting driving lights on my BJ8. To > date I have gotten as far as having in hand a set of the Cape International > light brackets. The correct period lights appear to be the Lucas SFT 700 Fog > and SLR 700 flamethrower (I have also seen SLR 700S but do not know the > difference). I have also seen a few photos of period cars with CIBIE lights > but it seems uncommon. While I want to have a period look I am also looking > for utility. > > 1. It seems from some information that cars were set up with one of each of > the lights (fog and driving) identified above. Does anyone know if this was > done regularly? > > 2. I am also looking for the correct lights referenced above. Can anyone > recommend a good source for them? > > 3. I have found no information concerning a premade wiring loom (harness) for > installation of lights. Does anyone know of such? > > Thanks in advance: > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From kentmclean at comcast.net Thu Feb 26 12:24:15 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:24:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A6EC5F.5070204@comcast.net> john close wrote: > Drop a big ol' V8 into that sucker. Only thing for it. - JRC > > From: Randy Hicks > Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) > > ebay Item number: 250379327480 > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan-The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQ Nonsense. Just seeing it was enough for me. My kindergarten teacher, Ms. Johnson, a fresh-out-of-college perky blonde and my first crush, had a brand-new red-on white one. It was the perfect car for her. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Thu Feb 26 12:29:15 2009 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:29:15 EST Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 Message-ID: Tony Otley had one in High School, when we discovered that any GM key would open and start the car, we steal it from him on almost a daily basis. He'd be sitting in class and we would drive by his room and honk and wave at him! Steven Kingsbury BN1 In a message dated 2/26/2009 11:25:00 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, kentmclean at comcast.net writes: john close wrote: > Drop a big ol' V8 into that sucker. Only thing for it. - JRC > > From: Randy Hicks > Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) > > ebay Item number: 250379327480 > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan-The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQ Nonsense. Just seeing it was enough for me. My kindergarten teacher, Ms. Johnson, a fresh-out-of-college perky blonde and my first crush, had a brand-new red-on white one. It was the perfect car for her. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as atightprod at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Feb 26 12:30:53 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:30:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 In-Reply-To: <49A6EC5F.5070204@comcast.net> References: <49A6EC5F.5070204@comcast.net> Message-ID: <03a301c99848$bda34170$38e9c450$@net> I had a teacher in High School that had one and one day the football team carried it into the school lobby. Lotsa laughs. Today, they would have been prosecuted. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kent McLean Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 2:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan The 1500 john close wrote: > Drop a big ol' V8 into that sucker. Only thing for it. - JRC > > From: Randy Hicks > Haven't run into one of these before! ????? :-) > > ebay Item number: 250379327480 > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Austin-Healey-1959-Metropolitan -The-1500-Hardtop_W0QQitemZ250379327480QQ Nonsense. Just seeing it was enough for me. My kindergarten teacher, Ms. Johnson, a fresh-out-of-college perky blonde and my first crush, had a brand-new red-on white one. It was the perfect car for her. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Thu Feb 26 12:34:06 2009 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 13:34:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Austin Healey 1959 Metropolitan Message-ID: <48720d20902261134y7753ead8y8cfa1a208e99140e@mail.gmail.com> BMC naturally used as many common parts as possible. The Metropolitan had a lot of parts like my BugEye. One day I was sitting in my friends Met waiting for him. The Met had the same light switch/ignition key set up as the BugEye. They key number was on the ignition switch tumbler. It looked familiar so I took out my Healey key and they were the exact same key! I wonder how often they repeated the keys. Uncle Sam was even dumber. Years ago I bought a Post Office Jeep. It came with a chain bolted to the car, just where the bail for the door opener was located. When I asked what it was for I was told that the specification for the Jeep required that ALL OF THEM be keyed alike. When someone realized that stealing one key would allow access to all the Jeeps, they fastened the chains to the car so the driver could use the chain and a padlock to lock the vehicle! And we though the British Car industry was slow witted. Jack From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 26 12:41:28 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 20:41:28 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A6F068.2020804@chello.nl> Jim, It was quite usual that one of each was used in day to day driving, mostly Lucas (LR 8; SFT/R700(S); FT/LR etc, but there were other British makes as well, Notek, Kent, Wypac, Raydyot, Butlers. Quality varied. However for serious driving two of each were used, yellow or white fog lights and white spot lights. In Europe the French Cibii or Marchall was the way to go in the 60's, they were far superior to the Lucas stuff but prone to corrosion. Another good make was Hella (German), probably the best in durability. Some allready had halogen (iode) bulbs in the sixties In addition a manual adjusting spotlight fitted/stuck on the inside of the windscreen was used, I cannot remember the make, or an adjustable one with a grip that was fitted on the door or front wing operated by hand, e.g. Styla. Always switch these lights through relays and preferably (for the looks) use a Lucas toggle switch (plenty around on ebay.co.uk from Landrover, Jaguar, MG etc.). The older purpose made relays are still available. A good source is ebay.co.uk, ebay.fr or ebay.de Kees Oudesluijs NL James Sailer schreef: > Greetings all, > > My last request for information didn't get me too far so I have done some more > research and have some more pointed questions which maybe there will be some > some base knowledge out there. I am putting driving lights on my BJ8. To > date I have gotten as far as having in hand a set of the Cape International > light brackets. The correct period lights appear to be the Lucas SFT 700 Fog > and SLR 700 flamethrower (I have also seen SLR 700S but do not know the > difference). I have also seen a few photos of period cars with CIBIE lights > but it seems uncommon. While I want to have a period look I am also looking > for utility. > > 1. It seems from some information that cars were set up with one of each of > the lights (fog and driving) identified above. Does anyone know if this was > done regularly? > > 2. I am also looking for the correct lights referenced above. Can anyone > recommend a good source for them? > > 3. I have found no information concerning a premade wiring loom (harness) for > installation of lights. Does anyone know of such? > > Thanks in advance: > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From ghess4 at cox.net Thu Feb 26 15:01:10 2009 From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:01:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Old horse, new wagon..... Message-ID: <28C7400546924D59BD81E54985EE119D@GalePC> Subject: Old horse, new wagon..... Young Chuck bought a horse from a farmer for $100. The farmer agreed to deliver the horse the next day. The next day the farmer drove up and said, "Sorry son, but I have some bad news... the horse died." Chuck replied, "Then give me my money back." The farmer said, "Can't do that. I spent it already." Chuck said, "Ok, then, then bring me the dead horse." The farmer asked, "What ya gonna do with him?" Chuck said, "I'm going to raffle him off." The farmer said, "You can't raffle off a dead horse!" Chuck said, "Sure I can. I just won't tell anybody he's dead." A month later, the farmer ran across Chuck and asked, "What ever happened with that dead horse?" Chuck said, "I raffled him off. I sold 500 tickets at two dollars a piece." The farmer said, "Didn't anyone complain?" Chuck said, "Just the guy who won. So I gave him his two dollars back. I made a profit of $998 - all cash I don't have to report... all on people's "hope" they were gonna get a horse for $2" "Then I sold the corpse to a rendering plant for another $20 cash... Now that I have paperwork showing my only horse died, and no way to make I living, I applied for government aid, and they're giving me enough welfare that I can buy a really nice horse with my cash, and the Government will never know about it." That was several years ago... Chuck now works for the government. He's the one who came up with the Obama "bail-out" scheme. From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Feb 26 15:45:46 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 16:45:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story Message-ID: There is justice-Won best lawyer of the year story: This took place in Charlotte, North Carolina. A lawyer purchased a box of very rare and expensive cigars, then insured them against, among other things, fire. Within a month, having smoked his entire stockpile of these great cigars, the lawyer filed a claim against the insurance company. In his claim, the lawyer stated the cigars were lost 'in a series of small fires.' The insurance company refused to pay, citing the obvious reason, that the man had consumed the cigars in the normal fashion. The lawyer sued and WON! (Stay with me.) Delivering the ruling, the judge agreed with the insurance company that the claim was frivolous. The judge stated nevertheless, that the lawyer held a policy from the company, in which it had warranted that the cigars were insurable and also guaranteed that it would insure them against fire, without defining what is considered to be unacceptable 'fire' and was obligated to pay the claim. Rather than endure lengthy and costly appeal process, the insurance company accepted the ruling and paid $15,000 to the lawyer for his loss of the cigars that perished in the 'fires'. NOW FOR THE BEST PART... After the lawyer cashed the check, the insurance company had him arrested on 24 counts of ARSON!!! With his own insurance claim and testimony from the previous case being used against him, the lawyer was convicted of intentionally burning his insured property and was sentenced to 24 months in jail and a $24,000 fine. This true story won First Place in last year's Criminal Lawyers Award contest. From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Feb 26 15:57:35 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:57:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03bc01c99865$9db31d50$d91957f0$@net> According to www.snopes.com, this is FALSE and has been circulating the internet since 1997. AND, before that was to be found in several joke books dating back as far as 1965. Ah, the dangers of blindly relaying emails. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 5:46 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story There is justice-Won best lawyer of the year story: This took place in Charlotte, North Carolina. A lawyer purchased a box of very rare and expensive cigars, then insured them against, among other things, fire. Within a month, having smoked his entire stockpile of these great cigars, the lawyer filed a claim against the insurance company. In his claim, the lawyer stated the cigars were lost 'in a series of small fires.' The insurance company refused to pay, citing the obvious reason, that the man had consumed the cigars in the normal fashion. The lawyer sued and WON! (Stay with me.) From robertlarson at att.net Thu Feb 26 16:21:37 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 18:21:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story In-Reply-To: <03bc01c99865$9db31d50$d91957f0$@net> References: <03bc01c99865$9db31d50$d91957f0$@net> Message-ID: <49A72401.10703@att.net> Maybe so... but does qualify as a Friday Funny if told as such. Some come early some late. Was a good read. Bob 55BN1 John Sims wrote: >According to www.snopes.com, this is FALSE and has been circulating the >internet since 1997. AND, before that was to be found in several joke books >dating back as far as 1965. Ah, the dangers of blindly relaying emails. > >John Sims, BN6 >Aberdeen, NJ > >www.healey6.com > > >-----Original Message----- >From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist >Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 5:46 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story > > There is justice-Won best lawyer of the year story: > > > >This took place in Charlotte, North Carolina. > >A lawyer purchased a box of very rare and expensive cigars, then insured >them against, among other things, fire. > >Within a month, having smoked his entire stockpile of these great cigars, >the lawyer filed a claim against the insurance company. > >In his claim, the lawyer stated the cigars were lost 'in a series of small >fires.' > >The insurance company refused to pay, citing the obvious reason, that the >man had consumed the cigars in the normal fashion. > >The lawyer sued and WON! (Stay with me.) From shop at justbrits.com Thu Feb 26 16:29:47 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:29:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Best lawyer of the year story In-Reply-To: <03bc01c99865$9db31d50$d91957f0$@net> Message-ID: <> LMAO, John !! For grins I check the Archives of my "Joke List". It was there from 3.5 years ago TWICE !!! And I know I have seen it on the "Joke List" at least twice in the last 3 or 4 months !! LOL Ed PS: "Joke List" IS open to ALL (there are 3 - I think - Big Healey guys that are on it !! PPS: To join, just send a mail to: 9issa-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just subscribe in the body. Rest IS automatic just like this List!! From dan at warner-associates.com Thu Feb 26 16:57:02 2009 From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:57:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny Lawyer Joke: Message-ID: <2159692FD94240BF8F758DAF1BA9E8F8@DANSTROM> OK, so I search Snoops this one looks good but just in case, I offer it up in the early Friday funny category: Judge Jerry Buchmeyer of the US District Court for the Northern District of Texas has a monthly article in the Texas Bar Journal. He prints reader submissions of humorous exchanges between lawyers and witnesses taken from deposition and trial transcripts. This one is a classic: Attorney: So, doctor, you determined that a gunshot wound was the cause of death of the patient? Doctor: That's correct. Attorney: Did you examine the patient when he came to the emergency room? Doctor: No, I performed the autopsy. Attorney: OK, were you aware of his vital signs while he was at the hospital? Doctor: Yes, he came to the emergency room in shock and died in the emergency room a short time after arriving. Attorney: Did you pronounce him dead at the time? Doctor: No, I am the pathologist who performed the autopsy. I was not involved with the patient initially. Attorney: Well, are you even sure, then, that he died in the emergency room? Doctor: That is what they records indicate. Attorney: But if you weren't there, how could you have pronounced him dead, having not seen or physically examined the patient at the time? Doctor: The autopsy showed massive hemorrhage into the chest, and that was the cause of death. Attorney: I understand that, but you were not actually present to examine the patient and pronounce him dead, isn't that right? Doctor: No, sir, I did not see the patient or actually pronounce him dead, but I did perform the autopsy and right now his brain is in a jar over at the county morgue. As for the rest of the patient, for all I know, he could be out practicing law somewhere. From kentmclean at comcast.net Thu Feb 26 17:18:48 2009 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 19:18:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 1959 Metropolita In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A73168.2090600@comcast.net> Jack Feldman wrote: > One day I was sitting in my friends Met waiting for him. The Met had the > same light switch/ignition key set up as the BugEye. They key number was on > the ignition switch tumbler. It looked familiar so I took out my Healey key > and they were the exact same key! I wonder how often they repeated the keys. I had a year-old '78 Fiat X1/9. One Saturday night I was leaving a party at an apartment complex. The first car I saw was an X1/9. I knew it wasn't mine (wrong color), but I had my keys in my hand, so as I came up to it, I tried the key. I laughed my arse off when the door unlocked. Keys and locks certain aren't unique. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From Warthodson at aol.com Thu Feb 26 18:07:28 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 20:07:28 EST Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up Message-ID: ____________________________________ From: Warthodson To: coudesluijs at chello.nl Sent: 2/26/2009 7:06:28 P.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up I have always thought the 700 series were more commonly used on the race/rally 100's & the 576 series were more commonly used on the race/rally 100-6 & 3000's. Gary In a message dated 2/26/2009 1:42:44 P.M. Central Standard Time, coudesluijs at chello.nl writes: Lucas (LR 8; SFT/R700(S); FT/LR etc, ____________________________________ A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. _See yours in just 2 easy steps!_ (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www .freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=febemailfooterNO 62) **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Fri Feb 27 05:28:03 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 07:28:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet kit manufacturer in UK Message-ID: Hello Folks, I checked the archives and have gotten a few opinions on quality of carpet from John Skinner Manufacturing in the UK. I need a carpet kit and quarter panels with original embossed checkerboard pattern. They claim to have the welding tool for pressing into the vinyl. I'd love opinions from folks who have purchased their products. Offline please!!! Thanks Wes Keyes From westonkeyes at hotmail.com Fri Feb 27 06:18:49 2009 From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 08:18:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dash mount studs or bolts BJ8 Message-ID: Hello Folks, I am restoring a car I didn't take apart. There was body work done around where the dash ends mount to the body and also the windshield is attached. There are 2 cast aluminum brackets that are screwed into the dash and attach to the body. Was there originally a stud welded to the body that goes through the hole in the casting? I just have a hole now. If they used a bolt the head would be covered up by the mounting plate of the windshield. Any clues? Thanks for your patience. Wes Keyes From bighealey at charter.net Fri Feb 27 07:25:27 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 06:25:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 1955 Austin Healey 100 S Message-ID: <74966F7D4F824333903EE8B7D2C9A68B@TRACY> Antique, futuristic cars share stage at Concours d'Elegance The Desert Sun - Palm Springs,CA,USA ... Lana Turner, Jean Harlow and Norma Shearer; a 1955 Austin Healey 100 S owned and raced by actor Jackie Cooper; And a 1958 Cadillac El Dorado Brougham ... Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org From Warthodson at aol.com Fri Feb 27 07:49:05 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 09:49:05 EST Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Old horse, new wagon..... Message-ID: You are incorrect. Look it up on snoops. He lied to his customers & cheated on his taxes. He either works for a bank, wall street or congress. Gary Hodson In a message dated 2/26/2009 4:06:54 P.M. Central Standard Time, ghess4 at cox.net writes: That was several years ago... Chuck now works for the government. He's the one who came up with the Obama "bail-out" scheme. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 27 08:05:15 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:05:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Dash mount studs or bolts BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wes - The bolt goes through the bracket, through the A pillar and through the windshield mount and fixed with a nut. Actually I think the nut is fixed on the inside... there is no captive or welded nut here. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 9:18 PM, Weston Keyes wrote: > Hello Folks, > > I am restoring a car I didn't take apart. There was body work done > around > where the dash ends mount to the body and also the windshield is attached. > There are 2 cast aluminum brackets that are screwed into the dash and > attach > to the body. Was there originally a stud welded to the body that goes > through > the hole in the casting? I just have a hole now. If they used a bolt the > head > would be covered up by the mounting plate of the windshield. Any clues? > > Thanks for your patience. > > Wes Keyes > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From medlabinc at msn.com Fri Feb 27 09:58:10 2009 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 08:58:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: Dick Matson To: AustinHealey List Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 8:44 AM Subject: Fw: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up In his nifty 2007 100-6 and 3000 book Graham Robson makes an interesting point re all those lights on the '62 and following rally cars - on pages 25-26. The 'halogen' headlights of the time had only one filament. I never thought of that. I would presume then that one or more pair of headlights would be set up equivalent to low beams. The others would be set up as high beam - turned on and off as called for. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Oudesluys To: James Sailer Cc: Healey List Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 11:41 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Questions on Big Healey Rally Light set up Jim, It was quite usual that one of each was used in day to day driving, mostly Lucas (LR 8; SFT/R700(S); FT/LR etc, but there were other British makes as well, Notek, Kent, Wypac, Raydyot, Butlers. Quality varied. However for serious driving two of each were used, yellow or white fog lights and white spot lights. In Europe the French Cibii or Marchall was the way to go in the 60's, they were far superior to the Lucas stuff but prone to corrosion. Another good make was Hella (German), probably the best in durability. Some allready had halogen (iode) bulbs in the sixties Kees Oudesluijs NL James Sailer schreef: > Greetings all, > > My last request for information didn't get me too far so I have done some more > research and have some more pointed questions which maybe there will be some > some base knowledge out there. I am putting driving lights on my BJ8. > > 1. It seems from some information that cars were set up with one of each of > the lights (fog and driving) identified above. Does anyone know if this was > done regularly? > > 2. I am also looking for the correct lights referenced above. Can anyone > recommend a good source for them? > > 3. I have found no information concerning a premade wiring loom (harness) for > installation of lights. Does anyone know of such? > > Thanks in advance: > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 27 10:54:46 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 09:54:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?DMD_manifold_project_complete_-_pictures?= Message-ID: <20090227175446.15756.qmail@hoster902.com> For those who are interested in the DMD 2-carb manifold on a LHD car, the following shows pictures of all the tweaks I went through to make this bad boy fit. http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/dmd2inch The last part is the construction of a dual-cable choke puller in the underdash (early roadster) position using the BJ8 coupler and teflon-lined bicycle cable housings. Choke operation is now almost effortless and provides a positive seating of the choke levers in the downward position. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri Feb 27 12:02:15 2009 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:02:15 EST Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies Message-ID: Subject: Italion Grandfather An old Italian Mafia Don is dying. He calls his grandson to his bedside. " Guido, I wanna you lissina me. I wanna you to take-a my chrome plated ..38 revolver so you will always remember me." "But grandpa, I really don't like guns. How about you leave me your Rolex watch instead?" "You lissina me, boy. Somma day you gonna be runna da business, you gonna have a beautiful wife, lotsa money, a big-a home and maybe a couple of bambinos " "Somma day you gonna come-a home and maybe finda you wife inna bed with another man. "Whatta you gonna do then? Pointa to you watch and say, 'Time's Up'?" **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From shop at justbrits.com Fri Feb 27 13:18:23 2009 From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:18:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] DMD manifold project complete - pictures In-Reply-To: <20090227175446.15756.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: GREAT job, Steve !!!!! Ed From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Fri Feb 27 17:16:13 2009 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (stevesylvia2) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 17:16:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Message-ID: <34DE065631A44E9D9559D734E5062728@DC2LDS61> Hi All, I'm in the assembly process with my BN7 and was wondering if a heat shield was installed under the drivers seat floor pan from the factory. When I look for heat shields, all I ever find is heat shields for the engine bay. Before I had the frame stripped and re-painted, I didn't notice any studs, or weld marks to suspend a heat shield for the muffler. Does anyone know if there is a solution for installing a heat shield under the drivers floor pan or where I can find one? I live in Tucson Arizona and its hot enough here without a muffler adding to it. Thanks for any assistance, Steve Meyer '61 BN7 From ynotink at msn.com Fri Feb 27 17:27:50 2009 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 00:27:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Old horse, new wagon..... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Isn't he the new treasury secretary? Oh! No that's a different tax cheat... > > > You are incorrect. Look it up on snoops. He lied to his customers & cheated > on his taxes. He either works for a bank, wall street or congress. > Gary Hodson > > > Chuck now works for the government. He's the one who came up with the Obama > "bail-out" scheme. > > > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID > %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 27 17:55:15 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:55:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <34DE065631A44E9D9559D734E5062728@DC2LDS61> References: <34DE065631A44E9D9559D734E5062728@DC2LDS61> Message-ID: Yes, for all 3000s there is a heat shield under the Left Hand floor pan. British Car Specialists and Bob Yule will sell them, usually as part of a complete heat shield kit. The are affixed to 5 T bolts (not carriage bolts) which are spot welded to the floor pan. On 2/28/09, stevesylvia2 wrote: > Hi All, > > I'm in the assembly process with my BN7 and was wondering if a > heat shield was installed under the drivers seat floor pan from the factory. > When I look for heat shields, all I ever find is heat shields for the engine > bay. Before I had the frame stripped and re-painted, I didn't notice any > studs, or weld marks to suspend a heat shield for the muffler. Does anyone > know if there is a solution for installing a heat shield under the drivers > floor pan or where I can find one? I live in Tucson Arizona and its hot > enough here without a muffler adding to it. > > > > Thanks for any assistance, > > Steve Meyer '61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 27 18:07:39 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 19:07:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <34DE065631A44E9D9559D734E5062728@DC2LDS61> Message-ID: Steve, Perhaps you don't have a copy of the Anderson and Moment book, or the Austin Healey "Originality Guide for Restorations and Registry Inspections". Even if you are not completely respecting the originality of the car, these documents offer a wealth of information that is fundamental to the reassembly of any Austin Healey. The heat shield under the driver's side floor is installed with through bolts, large washers against the heat shield, and nuts. The fire wall heat shield, and some of the bolts for the foot well heat shields, use bolts and washers with captive nuts that are welded to the sheet metal. AH Spares offers "original type" heat shields in a kit that includes the driver's side floor board, foot wells, fire wall, and the bolts, washers, and nuts. I suspect Moss has an identical or similar kit. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of stevesylvia2 Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 6:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Hi All, I'm in the assembly process with my BN7 and was wondering if a heat shield was installed under the drivers seat floor pan from the factory. When I look for heat shields, all I ever find is heat shields for the engine bay. Before I had the frame stripped and re-painted, I didn't notice any studs, or weld marks to suspend a heat shield for the muffler. Does anyone know if there is a solution for installing a heat shield under the drivers floor pan or where I can find one? I live in Tucson Arizona and its hot enough here without a muffler adding to it. Thanks for any assistance, Steve Meyer '61 BN7 From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Feb 27 18:22:07 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:22:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Message-ID: <003101c99942$f943a120$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Hi Steve, You probably didn't see any mounting studs under your floor because Healeys were originally shield-less until the introduction of the Mark II model in March of 1961, at Chassis No.13,751. The BN 7 model ran till Mar.'62. Best regards Peter '58 BN 6 ( with heat shield ) From Awgertoo at aol.com Fri Feb 27 18:25:48 2009 From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:25:48 EST Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Message-ID: In a message dated 2/27/2009 7:25:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, stevesylvia2 at comcast.net writes: Does anyone know if there is a solution for installing a heat shield under the drivers floor pan or where I can find one? ------------------------------------------------------- Steve-- I have sheets of DynaMat on top of and under the floor on the driver's side--also inside the transmission tunnel. It is quite effective in cutting down heat and is easy to apply to flat and curved surfaces. There are other more expensive products specifically sold for heat insulation--check out the Pegasus racing site. Best--Michael Oritt **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From pennell at cox.net Fri Feb 27 18:34:00 2009 From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:34:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <34DE065631A44E9D9559D734E5062728@DC2LDS61> Message-ID: <20090227203400.4HKPE.138142.imail@eastrmwml38> Steve, As others have already noted there should be studs on the underside of the pan for mounting the asbestos/modern ceramic heat shield. Others have given sources too. However, I observed that modern cars use a metal shield with spacing above so that must be a more effective way to go. I cut wood discs maybe 1/2 thick for spacing. Basically my shield is rectangular to cover the entire area between the front fand rear outriggers. At the front it is bent down to maybe 1/2 inch below the outrigger to catch air to move above it. At the rear it also bends down slightly to allow the hot air to escape below the rear outrigger. That's is my story and I am sticking to it! Keith Pennell > Hi All, > > I'm in the assembly process with my BN7 and was wondering if a > heat shield was installed under the drivers seat floor pan from the factory. > When I look for heat shields, all I ever find is heat shields for the engine > bay. Before I had the frame stripped and re-painted, I didn't notice any > studs, or weld marks to suspend a heat shield for the muffler. Does anyone > know if there is a solution for installing a heat shield under the drivers > floor pan or where I can find one? I live in Tucson Arizona and its hot > enough here without a muffler adding to it. > > > > Thanks for any assistance, > > Steve Meyer '61 BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Fri Feb 27 19:06:20 2009 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins ) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 02:06:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Message-ID: Guess that's why my BN7 440 built in 1959 doesn't have one. I put dynamat under my carpet which seems to work OK. Richard of KY ------Original Message------ From: Peter Svilans To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Sent: Feb 27, 2009 19:22 Hi Steve, You probably didn't see any mounting studs under your floor because Healeys were originally shield-less until the introduction of the Mark II model in March of 1961, at Chassis No.13,751. The BN 7 model ran till Mar.'62. Best regards Peter '58 BN 6 ( with heat shield ) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From linwoodrose at mac.com Fri Feb 27 19:08:44 2009 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:08:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Michael Salter Message-ID: <20A4E3DA-5CBE-423C-9ADC-2CF4CCC8CCE6@mac.com> Well, if I am correct, tomorrow is a big day for our own Michael Salter. Happy birthday Michael! Lin Rose 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" 1959 AN5 Bugeye From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 27 19:10:41 2009 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:10:41 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield In-Reply-To: <003101c99942$f943a120$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Message-ID: My June 1959 chassis number 1646 had asbestos heat shields with through bolts that looked "original" when I bought it in 1971. Apparently a prior owner must have added them, possibly buying them from a BMC dealer, in a token attempt to reduce the temperature in the passenger compartment Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Peter Svilans Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 7:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Hi Steve, You probably didn't see any mounting studs under your floor because Healeys were originally shield-less until the introduction of the Mark II model in March of 1961, at Chassis No.13,751. The BN 7 model ran till Mar.'62. Best regards Peter '58 BN 6 ( with heat shield ) From peter.svilans at rogers.com Fri Feb 27 19:17:46 2009 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:17:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Muffler Heat Shield Message-ID: <001001c9994a$bf3d6030$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B> Air is an effective insulator. This was recognized by the factory when they introduced square asbestos spacers at each mounting screw to create a layer of air between the asbestos footwell panels and the steel footwell itself. Can't recall just off the top of my head but it was probably at the same time as the muffler heat shield was introduced. Up to then the asbestos had been screwed directly to the footwell. The muffler heat shield would have been obtainable from BMC and retrofitted anytime from the summer of 1961 on. Peter From RAWDAWGS at aol.com Fri Feb 27 20:17:43 2009 From: RAWDAWGS at aol.com (RAWDAWGS at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:17:43 EST Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 Pistons Message-ID: I am looking for some early BN4 "clamp style" pistons. Does anyone have the Hepolite part number for these? Were they used in any other application other than the BN4? The block is virgin and I may be able to just go back with std size but might need to go 20 over, waiting on the machine shop verdict. I would like to just go back with the Longbridge set up for now and start working on a BJ8 engine I have laying around so if I can limp along for another 10k miles with this engine I would be happy. If I were to find a set of BN6 pistons with con rods would they work? Thanks in advance. Scott **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Feb 27 20:51:28 2009 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:51:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - To be honest, if your pistons aren't severly worn, and you are looking for a temp solution for a year or two, all you need to do is to replace the rings. In fact, if only 10 or 20 over you can get by with using the STD pistons with 10 or 20 over rings. The cars aren't exactly stressed so a little fudge here or there won't hurt anything. Be sure to hone your cylinders. Alan On 2/28/09, RAWDAWGS at aol.com wrote: > I am looking for some early BN4 "clamp style" pistons. Does anyone have the > Hepolite part number for these? Were they used in any other application > other > than the BN4? The block is virgin and I may be able to just go back with > std > size but might need to go 20 over, waiting on the machine shop verdict. I > would like to just go back with the Longbridge set up for now and start > working > on a BJ8 engine I have laying around so if I can limp along for another 10k > miles with this engine I would be happy. If I were to find a set of BN6 > pistons with con rods would they work? Thanks in advance. Scott > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID > %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Feb 27 20:51:55 2009 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 03:51:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?muffler_heat_shield?= Message-ID: <20090228035155.11555.qmail@server278.com> there were no bolts welded underneath the driver on my bn6. living in vegas and wanting to do everything i can to cut down on the heat, i fabricated a heat shield from the backer board and drilled holes and put spacers in. may not be councourse, but works for me. hjim From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 27 20:52:32 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 19:52:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Update_to_DMD_choke_pictures?= Message-ID: <20090228035232.31878.qmail@hoster902.com> I added a catch to keep choke in wide-open position with revised pictures showing the catch. http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/gallery/dmd2inch -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 27 22:07:04 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:07:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?DMD_manifold_project_complete_-_pictures?= Message-ID: <20090228050704.1649.qmail@hoster902.com> Paul, There are two K&N kits consisting of Gauge, sensor and mounting plug. My friend Peter Roses shopped around online and bought both kits and we split the price. The kits were $175 each for a total of $350. We plan to try some replacement needles in the near future. Then we're working on a plan to make the set available to members of our local Healey club, the Austin Healey Association. I see Pegaus Auto Racing has the kits for $192.99. You can buy one kit and use a toggle switch to alternate between two sensors. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA BN6 > -------Original Message------- > From: PG > Subject: RE: [Healeys] DMD manifold project complete - pictures > Sent: Feb 27 '09 17:40 > > Hi Steve, > > I noticed that you put an air/fuel monitor on your car......how do you find > it? What brand did you use and where did you get it? > > Paul From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 27 22:24:03 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:24:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Update_to_DMD_choke_pictures?= Message-ID: <20090228052403.8524.qmail@hoster902.com> Ed, Nothing as lame as a clothespin. It's the little wedge, pop-riveted to the inside of the BJ8 bracket. When you pull the crossbar outward past it, it rides over the wedge and snaps down in place, leaving the handle all the way out. A slight twist counter-clockwise rotates the end of the bar over the wedge allowing you to push the choke home, fully seating the jets. -- Steve Gerow > -------Original Message------- > From: Ed's Shop > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Update to DMD choke pictures > Sent: Feb 27 '09 20:26 > > I don't 'see' any 'locker' much less a cloths pin, Steve???? From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Feb 27 23:49:09 2009 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:49:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Update to DMD choke pictures In-Reply-To: <20090228052403.8524.qmail@hoster902.com> References: <20090228052403.8524.qmail@hoster902.com> Message-ID: <516CE3226F564B788CD559B8F76B629B@LeonardPCPC> Steve: Is that a standard Healey choke cable? If so, twisting the knob clockwise locks it in place. No wedge needed. If it is not a Healey cable, then the wedge looks like it will work for you. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve B. Gerow" To: "Ed's Shop" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Update to DMD choke pictures > Ed, > Nothing as lame as a clothespin. > > It's the little wedge, pop-riveted to the inside of the BJ8 bracket. When > you pull the crossbar outward past it, it rides over the wedge and snaps > down in place, leaving the handle all the way out. A slight twist > counter-clockwise rotates the end of the bar over the wedge allowing you > to push the choke home, fully seating the jets. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > > > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: Ed's Shop >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Update to DMD choke pictures >> Sent: Feb 27 '09 20:26 >> >> I don't 'see' any 'locker' much less a cloths pin, Steve???? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bighealey at charter.net Sat Feb 28 04:44:40 2009 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 03:44:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone near Leicester, United Kingdom Message-ID: <0A64E331200145C8BD647FEF2811F6BF@TRACY> Is any one real close to Leicester, United Kingdom? I am looking at an ebay item that would need to be picked up and shipped to California. If you are willing to help me out here by picking up in Leicester, and shipping to CA let me know soon. Tracy Drummond Gang Warily ! President AHCUSA www.healey.org From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Feb 28 08:13:06 2009 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:13:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] WTB - Busted Tach Message-ID: <854016.77966.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Does anyone have a broken white-faced tach they'd like to sell cheap? I'm looking for chrome, glass, face and needle to be in good condition, but innards needn't be. Thanks, Rick From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Feb 28 10:03:45 2009 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:03:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Powerful Liquid Friday funny Message-ID: <90DF21CFC6B04D598C4B2FB6D3A6E2D8@oscar> A little boy was sitting on the curb with a gallon of turpentine, shaking it up and watching all the bubbles. A while later a Priest came along and asked the little boy what he had. The little boy replied, 'This is the most powerful liquid in the world, it's called turpentine.' The Priest said, 'No, the most powerful liquid in the world is Holy Water. If you take some of this Holy Water and rub it on a pregnant woman's belly, she'll pass a healthy baby.' The little boy replied, 'You take some of this turpentine and rub it on a cat's ass, he'll pass a Harley Davidson.' From bn1 at pacbell.net Sat Feb 28 11:15:15 2009 From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:15:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49A97F33.3090609@pacbell.net> Joining this thread late as I just returned from Carnival in Mazatlan. Hey, what could I do? I was kidnapped ;-) Am I the only weirdo Healey owner out there who absolutely loves the cult classic Christine? Bill Jody Kerr wrote: > Hey all, > > I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight > and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I > don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a > really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is > that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film > that it becomes such. Here's my working list: > > 1) Italian Job (Original) > 2) Vanishing Point > 3) Bullett > 4) Cars > 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) > 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) > 7) Herbie the love bug > 8) Smokey and the Bandit > 9) Cannoball Run > > There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill > Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond > films, etc, etc. > > What do you all think? > > Jody From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 28 11:40:29 2009 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:40:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <49A97F33.3090609@pacbell.net> References: <471534970902222055m45209cccpe0740946ec6b055b@mail.gmail.com> <49A97F33.3090609@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <043b01c999d4$08383e70$18a8bb50$@net> Great movie and it got me hooked on Stephen King. Never read him before I saw the movie and I was curious as to how he could write a book that is so visual. Of course, after reading about a dozen of his books I was afraid to go to sleep at night so stopped reading him. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mr. Bill Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:15 PM To: Jody Kerr Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Joining this thread late as I just returned from Carnival in Mazatlan. Hey, what could I do? I was kidnapped ;-) Am I the only weirdo Healey owner out there who absolutely loves the cult classic Christine? Bill From kaynmike.bham at juno.com Sat Feb 28 12:50:51 2009 From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 19:50:51 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? Message-ID: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> I can't put it off a minute longer. (Sun's coming out) must remove the head and look. How much must I remove to get the head off? Just the manifold nuts, water lines and....? Is there an order to all this? (What? The cabinet maker is going to take the head off ? Is he completely crazy? Mike Gougeon 56BN2 From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sat Feb 28 13:19:25 2009 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 12:19:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Choke_cable_question?= Message-ID: <20090228201925.13095.qmail@hoster902.com> Len Hartnett wrote: >Steve: Is that a standard Healey choke cable? If so, twisting the knob >clockwise locks it in place. No wedge needed. If it is not a Healey cable, >then the wedge looks like it will work for you. Len, I decided not to replicate the BJ8 setup as I didn't like the Rube Goldberg look of it. Also, I wanted an absolutely positive push-back as well as 2 cables coming through the previous hole for a neater appearance. I'm used to the choke being under the dash - no problem there. I'd also read from folks on this forum the locking mechanism on that cable is iffy or non-existant, perhaps on the replacements. So I went with a VW replacement manual choke kit from Kragen. There was too much friction in the metal housings so I replaced them with teflon-lined bicycle cable housings which I highly recommend even for the stock setup. However this lack of friction kept the cable from staying all the way out so I had to install the lock ratchet. It works by pulling the clutch straight out. Rotating is only necessary to retract it. More than you wanted to know, but there you have it. -- Steve Gerow From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 28 14:14:26 2009 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 22:14:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? In-Reply-To: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <49A9A932.9040005@chello.nl> Mike, Get proper workshop manuals first, the official book (for professionals)and one from e.g. Haynes or Autobooks (for DIY nuts like us). Everything is explained and made to look simple in the books. Easy to find them on ebay.co.uk. Do not start these kind of jobs without the proper documentation. Kees Oudesluijs NL kaynmike.bham at juno.com schreef: > I can't put it off a minute longer. (Sun's coming out) must remove the head > and look. How much must I remove to get the head off? Just the manifold nuts, > water lines and....? Is there an order to all this? (What? The cabinet maker > is going to take the head off ? Is he completely crazy? > Mike Gougeon 56BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive From Warthodson at aol.com Sat Feb 28 14:21:13 2009 From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:21:13 EST Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 grill & steering wheel advise Message-ID: If anyone has comments &/or recommendations of either of the subjects, I will forward them on. Thanks, Gary Could you ask another couple of questions for your "friend who is reatoring a BJ7" Looking for information on restoration of vertical grill; cleaning, anodizing and replacing teeth and/or any quality exact copy reproductions available in particular the teeth. Looking for restorer/rebuilder of original steering wheels **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From msalter at precisionsportscar.com Sat Feb 28 14:21:46 2009 From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:21:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? In-Reply-To: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <9668F53745704EA7A5817B9A6EC0D6BC@michael> Kees advice is, I'm sure, born of experience and an absolute must. One thing to be aware of, in case you are not, is that all the fasteners in the BN1/2 engine are BSF or BSW threads so take particular care of those nuts and bolts..they are not available at Home Depot!!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com Sent: February 28, 2009 2:51 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? I can't put it off a minute longer. (Sun's coming out) must remove the head and look. How much must I remove to get the head off? Just the manifold nuts, water lines and....? Is there an order to all this? (What? The cabinet maker is going to take the head off ? Is he completely crazy? Mike Gougeon 56BN2 Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com http://www.team.net/archive From robertlarson at att.net Sat Feb 28 13:38:02 2009 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:38:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? In-Reply-To: <9668F53745704EA7A5817B9A6EC0D6BC@michael> References: <20090228.115051.4356.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com> <9668F53745704EA7A5817B9A6EC0D6BC@michael> Message-ID: <49A9A0AA.8020400@att.net> As Michael points out PLUS, make sure you have the correct wrenches of you will be replacing all the ones that got rounded off. Bob 55BN1 Michael Salter wrote: >Kees advice is, I'm sure, born of experience and an absolute must. >One thing to be aware of, in case you are not, is that all the fasteners in >the BN1/2 engine are BSF or BSW threads so take particular care of those >nuts and bolts..they are not available at Home Depot!!! > >Michael Salter >100 (1953) #174 >AHX12 (1953) >Bugeye (1961) >http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham at juno.com >Sent: February 28, 2009 2:51 PM >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] 100blown gasket? > >I can't put it off a minute longer. (Sun's coming out) must remove the head >and look. How much must I remove to get the head off? Just the manifold >nuts, >water lines and....? Is there an order to all this? (What? The cabinet maker >is going to take the head off ? Is he completely crazy? >Mike Gougeon 56BN2 From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sat Feb 28 17:14:32 2009 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 19:14:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dash mount studs or bolts BJ8 References: Message-ID: <729272A20C0448ABB038DEA9A50C4DAA@ophrdc.org> Wes, There are four mounting holes that line up the base of the windshield stanchions to the body in this location. One of these bolt holes (second one down) should also line up the oval hole in the dash mounting bracket. There are usually aluminum shims that need to pack between these stanchions and the body to adjust the fit of the windscreen assembly to the body. These also have the 1/4" bolts passing through these shims. The heads of the bolts should be on the inside of the car with the flats, lockwashers and nuts sitting outboard as shown in the accompanying picture. There is relief in the under side of the quarter trim panels to allow for the thickness of the bolt heads. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Weston Keyes" To: "Ahealey Ahealey" Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 8:18 AM Subject: [Healeys] Dash mount studs or bolts BJ8 > Hello Folks, > > I am restoring a car I didn't take apart. There was body work done > around > where the dash ends mount to the body and also the windshield is attached. > There are 2 cast aluminum brackets that are screwed into the dash and > attach > to the body. Was there originally a stud welded to the body that goes > through > the hole in the casting? I just have a hole now. If they used a bolt the > head > would be covered up by the mounting plate of the windshield. Any clues? > > Thanks for your patience. > > Wes Keyes > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Dec 06 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Convertible Detail 0002.jpg] From rudedoggg at earthlink.net Sat Feb 28 18:49:20 2009 From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (rudedoggg at earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 19:49:20 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films Message-ID: <4371005.1235872160861.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Duel. Steven Spielberg directed. Dennis Weaver starring. And some truck. JR -----Original Message----- >From: "Mr. Bill" >Sent: Feb 28, 2009 12:15 PM >To: Jody Kerr >Cc: Healey Mail List >Subject: Re: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films > >Joining this thread late as I just returned from Carnival in Mazatlan. >Hey, what could I do? I was kidnapped ;-) > >Am I the only weirdo Healey owner out there who absolutely loves the >cult classic Christine? > >Bill > >Jody Kerr wrote: >> Hey all, >> >> I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight >> and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I >> don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a >> really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is >> that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film >> that it becomes such. Here's my working list: >> >> 1) Italian Job (Original) >> 2) Vanishing Point >> 3) Bullett >> 4) Cars >> 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) >> 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) >> 7) Herbie the love bug >> 8) Smokey and the Bandit >> 9) Cannoball Run >> >> There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill >> Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond >> films, etc, etc. >> >> What do you all think? >> >> Jody >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >You are subscribed as rudedoggg at earthlink.net > >http://www.team.net/archive From healeynut at hotmail.com Sat Feb 28 21:15:22 2009 From: healeynut at hotmail.com (DON HARDIE) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 15:15:22 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] [ot] classic car films In-Reply-To: <4371005.1235872160861.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <4371005.1235872160861.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: The Fast Lady, not much of a movie, but a great 1925 Red Label Bentley. Don Lake Haven OZ BN1 > > > >Joining this thread late as I just returned from Carnival in Mazatlan. > >Hey, what could I do? I was kidnapped ;-) > > > >Am I the only weirdo Healey owner out there who absolutely loves the > >cult classic Christine? > > > >Bill > > > >Jody Kerr wrote: > >> Hey all, > >> > >> I was trying to explain the movie Vanishing Point to the wife tonight > >> and then started making a top ten car films list because of it. I > >> don't like all of the list I've come up with (nor could I determine a > >> really good #10). What movies am I missing from my list? The idea is > >> that the car is either a central carachter, or so integral to the film > >> that it becomes such. Here's my working list: > >> > >> 1) Italian Job (Original) > >> 2) Vanishing Point > >> 3) Bullett > >> 4) Cars > >> 5) Mad Max (including the Road Warrior) > >> 6) Gone in 60 Seconds (Both versions) > >> 7) Herbie the love bug > >> 8) Smokey and the Bandit > >> 9) Cannoball Run > >> > >> There's many b-stars to go with this. Harold and Maude, Downhill > >> Racer, THX1138, Fast and the Furious, What's new Pussycat, the Bond > >> films, etc, etc. > >> > >> What do you all think? > >> > >> Jody > >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >Healeys at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > >You are subscribed as rudedoggg at earthlink.net > > > >http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeynut at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Need a new place to rent, share or buy? Let ninemsn property help http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Edomain%2Ecom%2Eau%2 F%3Fs%5Fcid%3DFDMedia%3ANineMSN%5FHotmail%5FTagline&_t=774152450&_r=Domain_ta gline&_m=EXT