[Healeys] body panel fit

[wilkmanracing at aol.com]

I would suggest you do all the body work and have the panels primed with an
epoxy primer.  Then install the drive train.  With that in place you will have
the exact weight and distribution you need. There is no need to test fit
panels before everything else is in place.  On the steel panels, I'd suggest
you have them dipped by one of the professional stripping places.  It will
remove all rust, bondo, and paint in one shot.  Then when you get the panels
back, have a body shop prime them with an epoxy primer. These paints are
extremely toxic, so they are not for a home brew job, unless you have a fresh
air system and and some sort of enclosed space with good ventilation.  The
body shop could also do any straightening before applying the epoxy primer.  I
believe aluminum will melt in the stripping solution, so those will have to be
stripped by hand.  You can use aircraft paint stripper or do as I did, use a
3M Bristle Disk in a grinder.  It's a plastic brush-like tool that strips the
paint, but spares the aluminum.

Bill Wilkman
BT7


-----Original Message-----
From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2009 12:17 pm
Subject: [Healeys] body panel fit


Need some advice.
Have my chassis rolling with all brake lines and electrical done, dash
nstalled and gas tank in.

Question 1:
Has anyone had any experience test fitting body panels while adding weight
o simulate the engine/trans in place? How much weight did you add?

Question 2:
What's the best way to strip 2 coats of paint off the panels? Should this be
one after all repairs so you can immediately prime and paint after?

Question 3:
Anyone know of a good shop within 100miles of Connecticut that would rebuild
he engine and transmission/OD together? Any experience on price paid over
he past 12months for a 2600cc 6cyl?

Thanks,

Simon
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