[Healeys] Rear Axle Removal

[Michael Salter]

Well Paul this is actually a complex subject. One of the failings of the
earlier Healeys, in the opinion of the press at the time, was that the ride
was just too stiff for the American palate, or probably more correctly
"backside". The modification in 1965 to install a dip in the frame and
soften the rear springs to provide more travel was intended to address this.

As a result of this you will find that lowering the rear without adding
stiffer springs  will result in the axle frequently hitting the bump stops
which is a definite no no when improved handling s the goal but, if that is
the route that you want to go then "you go boy".
The Healey rear axle is a very robust unit, and will probably not be in need
of any major work, but a major inspection and cleanup is an honorable task
and should keep you entertained for a few days.
As you will be disassembling it I woould strongly recommend removing the
half shafts and pumpkin and even one brake back plate before attempting to
remove the housing from the car.
If you car has been in a "rust producing" environment at any time your will
probably find that the bolts inside the rubber bushes of both the radius
arms and spring eye bushes are seized into the metal sleeves in the bushes.
These can be a bear to remove and I usually resort to cutting through the
bolts and part of the sleeve with a "Sabresaw" or similar device of mass
destruction in order to remove the axle.
Good luck.
BTW if you are considering installing an anti roll bar on the back I would
suggest taht you read this article on my blog before you do.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=71

Michael Salter

On Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 12:38 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> RE:  '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> Ok..so I am of weak mind and strong back and a bit of a sucker for
> punishment.
>
>
>
> One of my projects this winter is to lower the car by about 1"...just don't
> like the way the rear of the Mark 3 BJ8 sits..too high.  Also, I have a
> rear
> sway bar that's been taking space in my garage waiting for installation.
>
>
>
> While getting into this job, I started thinking thinking that I've done the
> transmission and engine so I might as well finish the drive train and do
> the
> axle.nothing particularly wrong with it..bit of play but nothing terrible.
>
>
>
> So, I have a couple of questions:
>
>
>
> 1.      To get the axle out, I need to slide it over the frame and springs.
> While Haynes recommends this approach, I'm looking at the pumpkin and
> wondering if will actually fit (even with rotating it);
>
>
>
> 2.      I assume it make sense to replace the bushing on the tie bars while
> I"ve got everything apart.  However, am a little concerned that once I
> start
> I'm going to find the bolts/nuts frozen and get myself into a bit of a jam.
> Likewise for the bushings on the springs.
>
>
>
> 3.      Is this something where you leave well enough alone?
>
>
>
> Thanks fro the help.all advice and comments appreciated as always.
>
>
>
> Paul