From derek.c.job at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 01:28:40 2009
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 09:28:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <d7fbb3ac0912010028n3b0b978cj2092547800adee7b@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Robert,

I can see why your son might need some travel tips- he's going to Paris -
but booked a flight to Lyon!!!

Just joking.

I lived in Paris for 5 years and loved it all. I agree with the comments
Kees made. Get the TGV to Paris then travel around on the metro. It's cheap,
clean, easy to understand and very efficient with lots of trains going
everywhere.

What I learnt very quickly is that if you want people to help you then make
an effort to go through the prelimenary courtisies. In practice that means
before asking any question you must first say, at the very least, Bonjour
Monsieur, Bonjour Madame. If you know a bit more polite French then that's
even better, but don't miss out the formalty. It's considered very rude to
just start talking to somebody.

salut

Derek

On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 10:31 PM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Hi!
>
>
>
> My son is going to Paris over the Christmas holidays.  Unfortunately he
> booked
> a flight to Lyon when he should have gone direct to Paris.  Now, he's
> looking
> at taking a train from Lyon to Paris.  Does anyone on the list have any
> helpful information on how to get around there?  Including how well the
> French
> understand English? :)
>
>
> TIA!
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as derek.c.job at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dpaye at crocker.com  Tue Dec  1 03:16:56 2009
From: dpaye at crocker.com (Donald Paye)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 04:16:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Auto Trader healey
Message-ID: <152C4FE535CE488AB60F8C48454449C9@DonaldPayePC>

Has anyone had any experience purchasing cars listed on Auto Trader Classics.
Currently there is a 1964 AH BJ7 listed at $9900 being sold by a Joesph Perez
along with three other cars all at $9900. A friend has been in contact with
him and asking advise. If it sounds too good it probably is not......!!!!
Any thoughts appreciated.

Don
BN1,BJ7,Tiger

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 02:22:11 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 04:22:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Reno Red - revisit
In-Reply-To: <20865AFC38B6475EB9911B68A41ED3C7@user8634b3d69b>
References: <bff.6e920766.384482b6@aol.com><A70FAD0E445E4A00B17E90BC08AE077A@Dell>
	<002e01ca71fe$6c5ff3e0$451fdba0$@rr.com>
	<20865AFC38B6475EB9911B68A41ED3C7@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <000e01ca7267$c3682220$4a386660$@rr.com>

Dang!

-----Original Message-----
From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday at btinternet.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 7:28 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reno Red - revisit

I would query February 29th 1957.  It was not a leap year, February ended on

the 28th.

Guy R Day

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reno Red - revisit


> Hi, Alan -
>
> I have copies of BMIHT certificates for 661 BJ8s.  For some cars, I have
> multiple certificates issued for the same car at different times with
> different information.  So, I have ample evidence that there are errors on
> the certificates far too frequently for the price they are asking for them
> now.
>
> However, I'm not sure if you are considering a build date of 27 February 
> and
> a date when the car left the factory of 29 February as in conflict.  The
> certificates (for BJ8s, anyway) designate the build dates as the dates
> between "Off Body Line" and "Off Finishing".  There is another date not
> given on the certificates ("Date Advised") which I interpret as the date
> that Production notified the next department (Shipping?) that the car was
> ready to go.  The actual "Despatch" date could be the same date as the
> "build" date, or several days, weeks, or months later.  It's possible that
> your car's build date ("Off Finishing") was 27 February, but the date if
> left the factory ("Despatch date") was 29 February.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Dec  1 03:39:33 2009
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Eric Frenken)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 11:39:33 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net>
	<4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>

What was the finish of the gauge housings on the Big Healeys (in my case a
BJ7 if that matters)? Zinc plated? Bare metal?

Thanks in advance for all your wisdom.

Eric

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 04:26:09 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 06:26:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Auto Trader healey
In-Reply-To: <152C4FE535CE488AB60F8C48454449C9@DonaldPayePC>
References: <152C4FE535CE488AB60F8C48454449C9@DonaldPayePC>
Message-ID: <002701ca7279$147e20e0$3d7a62a0$@rr.com>

The red over black '64 BJ8 that is offered for $9,900 is certainly a scam.
It has been the subject of scams on eBay in the recent past.  When it first
appeared on eBay I notified the actual owner, who confirmed the sale was not
legitimate.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Donald Paye
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 5:17 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Auto Trader healey

Has anyone had any experience purchasing cars listed on Auto Trader
Classics.
Currently there is a 1964 AH BJ7 listed at $9900 being sold by a Joesph
Perez
along with three other cars all at $9900. A friend has been in contact with
him and asking advise. If it sounds too good it probably is not......!!!!
Any thoughts appreciated.

Don
BN1,BJ7,Tiger
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Dec  1 04:30:17 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 12:30:17 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <4B14FE49.5070504@club-internet.fr>

"Ou est la salle de bains" (where is the bathroom?) means you want to
have a shower or a bath literally.
If you're looking for the boys' (girls') room (or the loo), say: "Ou
sont les toilettes?" or even shorter: "les toilettes, s'il vous plait'.
B

Greg Lemon a icrit :
> If things aren't firmed up with Paris maybe head South to the 
> Nice/Cannes/Antibes/Monaco area, better scenery, fewer crowds, better 
> hotels for less money, generally more friendly folk.  My wife and I 
> visited both areas about 10 years ago and much preferred the Sunny 
> south of France to Paris, although if you are only going once I 
> suppose the Eiffel Tower, Louvre etc. should probably be on the to do 
> list.
>
> If they don't understand English try talking louder and making 
> exagerrated hand gestures, it helps the American image oh so much.
>
> Just kidding many know some little bit of English, but they don't 
> always seem happy about trying to converse in it.  If possible not a 
> bad idea to learn some basic conversational French, or at least add 
> "ou est la sal de bains" and  "Parlez-vous Anglais?"
>
> Greg Lemon _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Dec  1 05:58:53 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 6:58:53 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Trailering/AAA Flatbed Danger
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20091130200518.01fed998@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091201065853.FDBBA.1151932.root@ispmxfep13-z01>

Funny, over the last 5 years I have had my E-Type trailered 3 times by AAA-sponsored towers.  EACH time they were very careful and were happy to listen to my advice as to where to hook the cable and how to secure the car.  Not one scratch occurred.  I was VERY happy with them.  I also told them when I called what to bring---and they did it.

Tom

---- john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

=============
I switched to National Automobile Club quite some time ago and they 
have been great!

BTW, The California AAA reported over $3,500,000,000 in stocks and 
cash and cash equivalents in three years (2001-2004) I do not 
understand how they can be a non-profit and change so much. I had 
them for nearly 30 years and quit because they are expensive.

John

At 02:02 PM 11/23/2009 -0600, Jack Feldman wrote:
>Beware of AAA towing for a Healey. ...
>
>AAA is cheap, and doesn't really care about your car. *Be sure the person
>who puts it on a flatbed knows what he is doing.
>*....
>BEWARE OF AAA! They are more interested in selling you insurance and booking
>trips than servicing your special needs..
>
>Jack
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 06:33:19 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:33:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net>
	<4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net> <000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
Message-ID: <4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>

Good question!  I'd be interested to know as well. 

Can offer that the insides appeared to have been painted white, in order 
to reflect the back (6-cyl) or perimeter (4-cyl?) gauge lighting.  The 
outer case appears to be painted--it's a bit dark for Zn plating--but 
that's just a guess.


bs



Eric Frenken wrote:
> What was the finish of the gauge housings on the Big Healeys (in my case a
> BJ7 if that matters)? Zinc plated? Bare metal?
>
> Thanks in advance for all your wisdom.
>
> Eric
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 06:46:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:46:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Trailering/AAA Flatbed Danger
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0911302103y67fd6e62pa1a4307c9f8511a7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20911231202g5d4886aex424930c23ad16d7d@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091130200518.01fed998@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0911302103y67fd6e62pa1a4307c9f8511a7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B151E37.8040105@comcast.net>

re: "With google maps and Garmin, I guess the only AAA benefit these 
days is the towing"

The motel room discounts from AAA all but pay for my subscription; the 
maps and the travel guides--very helpful when trying to find a decent, 
reasonable motel room--and roadside assistance are a bonus.   Nothing 
against GPS, but when you simply want to find the most interesting/fun 
route a map works just fine (the 'scenic route' markings on the AAA maps 
are usually correct).

AARP has comparable discounts, but (so far) I've refused to join an 
organization that wants me just 'cause I'm old.


bs

Alan Seigrist wrote:
> John -
>
> As an insurance company, they don't have to follow standard GAAP accounting
> procedures.  They do need the cash and equivalents to operate properly as an
> insurance company, but they won't necessarily be non profit except according
> to the rules they are supposed to follow.  It's all a bit of a bait and
> switch, but to be fair, they need the cash on the books for their insurance
> business.  Are they really a non-profit?  Who knows.
>
> With google maps and Garmin, I guess the only AAA benefit these days is the
> towing, but honestly if I'm somewhere around my hometown neigborhood, towing
> insurance is far better than AAA because I can specify the tow company and
> ask for a flatbed tow.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From gstigen at msn.com  Tue Dec  1 07:26:18 2009
From: gstigen at msn.com (gene stigen)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 06:26:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
Message-ID: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>

Owning '63 BJ7&had '64 BJ7 phase 1&2,'65BJ8,still have very late '67 MK3
Phase2& early '53 100-4. Been driving, playing&working on them since '69,sorry
there were no BJ8s in '63,didn't happen to best of my knowledge,some late
'64s. cheers Geno

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Dec  1 07:40:19 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 09:40:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5><C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net><4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net>
	<000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com> <4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>

All that I have observed seem to have been a very dull greyish plating. I 
don't think it was paint.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: <eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com>
Cc: "'Healeys List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing


> Good question!  I'd be interested to know as well.
> Can offer that the insides appeared to have been painted white, in order 
> to reflect the back (6-cyl) or perimeter (4-cyl?) gauge lighting.  The 
> outer case appears to be painted--it's a bit dark for Zn plating--but 
> that's just a guess.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Eric Frenken wrote:
>> What was the finish of the gauge housings on the Big Healeys (in my case 
>> a
>> BJ7 if that matters)? Zinc plated? Bare metal?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for all your wisdom.
>>
>> Eric
>>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Tue Dec  1 07:49:19 2009
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:49:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear spring shackles
In-Reply-To: <8CC40A8753C00DC-37A0-30BC@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C73A971F.3DB1%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Many thanks  it9s a 65.  I sent the numbers to Steve Byers  so will check.
But, yes, my car does have the torque rods. The spring schackles seem to be
a combination of odd Healey bits (but not made of bits from the bin).

Tom


On 12/1/09 9:19 AM, "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> From the description, it is possible you have a Phase I BJ8, which would
mean
> that the springs & attachments are the same as earlier Healeys.
> The later BJ8's have two torgue rods (one on each end of the axle near the
> brakes) that connect to the frame. Does your car have these? If not it is a
> Phase I.
> Gary
>
> ...  got a new shackle set and they have a wider
> distance, bolt shackle to frame and bolt shackle to spring -- about a good
> quarter of an inch more distance between these two bolts, that is. What
will
> this mean, if anything, re wheel height into wheel well, etc.? Was my
> original set up just weird? Am I in for it when I try to do this job? (I9ve
> read the archives and gleaned caveats from web stories re leaf spring
> hassles. Am a bit worried.)
> ...

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 07:50:19 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 06:50:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5><C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net><4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net>
	<000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com> <4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>
	<A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>

Hi Rich,

Agreed--seems too thin to be paint.  But, it's too gray to be cadmium, 
and too dark to be zinc, as far as I can tell.

Anyone on a first name basis with Nisonger or MoMa that can ask them?

bs


Rich C wrote:
> All that I have observed seem to have been a very dull greyish 
> plating. I don't think it was paint.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec  1 07:53:31 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:53:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>

Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.



LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll request
that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.



He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 years, way
back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think with my
last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? ) ...
was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be some French
language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada

> From: glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> If things aren't firmed up with Paris maybe head South to the
> Nice/Cannes/Antibes/Monaco area, better scenery, fewer crowds, better hotels
> for less money, generally more friendly folk. My wife and I visited both
> areas about 10 years ago and much preferred the Sunny south of France to
> Paris, although if you are only going once I suppose the Eiffel Tower,
> Louvre etc. should probably be on the to do list.
>
> If they don't understand English try talking louder and making exagerrated
> hand gestures, it helps the American image oh so much.
>
> Just kidding many know some little bit of English, but they don't always
> seem happy about trying to converse in it. If possible not a bad idea to
> learn some basic conversational French, or at least add "ou est la sal de
> bains" and "Parlez-vous Anglais?"
>
> Greg Lemon

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Dec  1 08:02:00 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 9:02:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Trailering/AAA Flatbed Danger
In-Reply-To: <740c31620912010537h5f75ebc0qd7dc7f5f19036822@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091201090200.GO0SM.1155702.root@ispmxfep13-z01>

I think the difference is IF you are there watching what they do.


---- Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Several years ago my M-5 had to be towed. I requested a flatbed which AAA
sent while I was at work. My wife called a few hours later and said that the
BMW had rolled off the flatbed while they were loading it and the front
bumper fell off after it hit a tree...It was all due to an inexperienced kid
doing the towing for the AAA. Never again. I think the repair costs (which
their insurance paid), were about $5,500.

jon einhorn

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 7:58 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Funny, over the last 5 years I have had my E-Type trailered 3 times by
> AAA-sponsored towers.  EACH time they were very careful and were happy to
> listen to my advice as to where to hook the cable and how to secure the car.
>  Not one scratch occurred.  I was VERY happy with them.  I also told them
> when I called what to bring---and they did it.
>
> Tom
>
> ---- john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> I switched to National Automobile Club quite some time ago and they
> have been great!
>
> BTW, The California AAA reported over $3,500,000,000 in stocks and
> cash and cash equivalents in three years (2001-2004) I do not
> understand how they can be a non-profit and change so much. I had
> them for nearly 30 years and quit because they are expensive.
>
> John
>
> At 02:02 PM 11/23/2009 -0600, Jack Feldman wrote:
> >Beware of AAA towing for a Healey. ...
> >
> >AAA is cheap, and doesn't really care about your car. *Be sure the person
> >who puts it on a flatbed knows what he is doing.
> >*....
> >BEWARE OF AAA! They are more interested in selling you insurance and
> booking
> >trips than servicing your special needs..
> >
> >Jack
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jnhorn at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
412 Orange Street
New Haven, CT. 06511
tel: 203-7777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373

From pennell at cox.net  Tue Dec  1 08:11:51 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 10:11:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 3 Lefts Make a Right
In-Reply-To: <20091130200555.IU2DF.1153583.root@ispmxfep10-z02>
Message-ID: <20091201101151.YDUBM.2567.imail@eastrmwml36>

Right on Tom!!!!!!

---- Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote: 
> What's the matter Rich--you feeling "left out":):):):)  Sorry, I just couldn't resist one more.

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec  1 08:17:34 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 15:17:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <d7fbb3ac0912010028n3b0b978cj2092547800adee7b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>,
	<d7fbb3ac0912010028n3b0b978cj2092547800adee7b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W47664CCE01E7CD8A9A2F8AB8960@phx.gbl>

Salut Derek!



To me, that's no joke ( but funny, none the less :) ).  Believe me, that does
concern me!  I think what happened is that the plan changed somewhere along
the line and instead of meeting in Lyon, now they're meeting in Paris.  When
he went to change the ticket, the price had changed in a very inadvantageous
way for him and it's much cheaper to take the train.  I'll find out later what
happened.  I'm sure that there's a lesson to be learned here somewhere.



If he can get from Lyon to Paris and meet with his 'friend', then I'll be less
concerned.

Robert Duquette ( My mother's name was O'Reilly and my father's mother's name
was Keenan! And that's my excuse! :) )
Ottawa ON Canada





Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 09:28:40 +0100
Subject: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
From: derek.c.job at gmail.com
To: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
CC: healeys at autox.team.net

Hi Robert,

I can see why your son might need some travel tips- he's going to Paris - but
booked a flight to Lyon!!!

Just joking.

I lived in Paris for 5 years and loved it all. I agree with the comments Kees
made. Get the TGV to Paris then travel around on the metro. It's cheap, clean,
easy to understand and very efficient with lots of trains going everywhere.

What I learnt very quickly is that if you want people to help you then make an
effort to go through the prelimenary courtisies. In practice that means before
asking any question you must first say, at the very least, Bonjour Monsieur,
Bonjour Madame. If you know a bit more polite French then that's even better,
but don't miss out the formalty. It's considered very rude to just start
talking to somebody.

salut

Derek


On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 10:31 PM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

Hi!



My son is going to Paris over the Christmas holidays.  Unfortunately he
booked
a flight to Lyon when he should have gone direct to Paris.  Now, he's looking
at taking a train from Lyon to Paris.  Does anyone on the list have any
helpful information on how to get around there?  Including how well the
French
understand English? :)


TIA!


Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as derek.c.job at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 08:21:14 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:21:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Reamers
In-Reply-To: <759624276.7678721259600514801.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <751d05480911300820o776cc296p6312ceb930daa8c7@mail.gmail.com>
	<759624276.7678721259600514801.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <751d05480912010721l26b319bcqd3429f972b854858@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Absolutely, positively, no doubt in my mind!  UNF = SAE Fine and UNC = SAE
Coarse.  It was set up this way when the British transitioned away from the
Whitworth Standard.  Now, I initially was going to write that the two were
virtually identical because there are some minor differences, but I thought
that this would confuse some people with minutia.  The differences are too
minor and they are interchangeable.

If yours don't fit then something is amiss and you'll need to find out what
the problem could be.  Don't necessarily go by the Moss Catalog.  First, get
a proper thread gauge and check for yourself.  Whitworth thread gauges are
not that hard to come by and I have several.  Check against US Thread gauge
to be certain.

First make certain the threads are perfectly clean, and if possible I clean
them on a wire wheel.

If the threads are damaged in any way this could be your problem.  I've had
stretched fasteners with this problem where they will start to thread in and
then bind up.  When a used a die I would start to cut threads.  "British
Butter Bolts" is an accurate description and any stretch will cause what you
describe.  I've also had bolts where the threads became damaged and would
bind up.

Next, don't use cheap taps and dies.  My Whitworth stuff is high quality
German made of HSS, and the same goes for my UNF & UNC taps and dies,
quality made from the UK.  The stuff they sell at local US hardware stores
is not always up to par in my opinion (feel free to interpret this as CRAP.)

A lot of my information has come from my 16th Edition, 1959 Machinery's
Handbook and many articles that I have research over the years.  Plus 35
years of mucking around with Austin Healeys.

Oh, and FWIW there are several more obscure Whitworth thread forms which
include...

British Standard Screw Threads (Taper) for Copper Pipes.
British Standard Electrical Conduit (BSEC)
Model Engineers (ME)**

And there's more, but I won't go into them since they'll really obscure the
issue, but just remember, to be Whitworth they MUST have a 55 degree thread
angle.

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 9:01 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

>  re: "*Unified Fine (UNF)* - Identical to American SAE Fine and
> *Interchangeable*.  The angle of the threads is 60 degrees."
>
> Are you sure about this one?  For instance, the threads on the large U-bolt
> that fastens the axle to rear springs is noted as 'UNF' in, for instance,
> the Moss catalog.  I believe they are either 5/16" or 3/8."  Anyway, we
> tried to run SAE fine nuts on them--they'll go about 3/4" inch just fine,
> then jam.  A thread chaser will go 3/4", then cut, then go 3/4", then cut,
> etc.
>
> Same story with some of the nuts and bolts on the shock hardware.
>
> bs
>
> --------------------------------
>
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Dec  1 08:22:05 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:22:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] restoring cars and welding
Message-ID: <94D1811F24C94A86A8A38A0D1D7A671E@cardinalhealth.net>

Group,

Just wanted to share some experiences with welding.  I had a MIG welder that
was originally from Harbor Freight or equivalent.  It was always wrapping the
wire into a knot and or not working properly.  I finally asked my wife to take
it to get fixed.  The people at the welding shop said it was a piece of junk
and would not work on it.  My very nice wife bought me a Hobart 189.  After a
few adjustments, I am welding better than I ever have in my life.   Good
equipment works.   I know many of you know how to weld.  As many have said, it
just takes practice and a good welder.

 I have decided that you can't restore a car without a welder and a Dremel.

Jerry
BJ8
BN4

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 08:35:40 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 16:35:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net>
	<4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net> <000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
	<4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B1537CC.4000803@chello.nl>

The Smiths/Jaeger instrument housings were zinc electroplated and the 
inside was painted white or white and pale blue.
The zinc (re)plating can be done at home as there are several sets 
available running from a battery using a zincsalt solution, electrodes 
and a sponge. I cannot remember the brand.I do not know if they worked 
properly as I never tried them. They were/are used to repair the 
original zinc coat on modern cars after crash repair.
The zinc plating becomes dark gray with age and corrosion.
Some of the older instruments and the clocks had a cast mazac or zinc 
housing.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

> Good question!  I'd be interested to know as well.
> Can offer that the insides appeared to have been painted white, in 
> order to reflect the back (6-cyl) or perimeter (4-cyl?) gauge 
> lighting.  The outer case appears to be painted--it's a bit dark for 
> Zn plating--but that's just a guess.
>
>
>> What was the finish of the gauge housings on the Big Healeys (in my 
>> case a
>> BJ7 if that matters)? Zinc plated? Bare metal?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for all your wisdom.

From walt2727 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec  1 08:38:21 2009
From: walt2727 at yahoo.com (Walt Peterson)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:38:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <247951.16783.qm@web31406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tain't paint: Donald was able to recycle his old teabags for the mix...
 
Walt

--- On Tue, 12/1/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "'Healeys List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Date: Tuesday, December 1, 2009, 9:50 AM


Hi Rich,

Agreed--seems too thin to be paint.  But, it's too gray to be cadmium, and too
dark to be zinc, as far as I can tell.

Anyone on a first name basis with Nisonger or MoMa that can ask them?

bs


Rich C wrote:
> All that I have observed seem to have been a very dull greyish plating. I
don't think it was paint.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>


-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as walt2727 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Tue Dec  1 08:38:21 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 10:38:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B15386D.1060605@htcnet.org>

Early 64s.  I bought and still own a 64 BJ8 Ph1 in spring of 64.

John
BJ8s

gene stigen wrote:
> Owning '63 BJ7&had '64 BJ7 phase 1&2,'65BJ8,still have very late '67 MK3
> Phase2& early '53 100-4. Been driving, playing&working on them since '69,sorry
> there were no BJ8s in '63,didn't happen to best of my knowledge,some late
> '64s. cheers Geno

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  1 09:09:13 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 08:09:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor Driving Spindle
In-Reply-To: <20091129.051912.10765.30759@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20091129.051912.10765.30759@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <EB2F491E-09B5-4921-B3EF-EE4EE6A915A6@sbcglobal.net>

Doug, yes we do have some used 100/4 distributor drive spindles




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Nov 29, 2009, at 5:19 AM, dwflagg wrote:

> Would anyone have a drive gear (driving spindle) for a BN2 40495A
> distributor available? If so, please contact me off the list. Thanks.
>
> Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> One Up the Competition
> Earn your MBA from Post University. Free textbooks for new students!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c? 
> cp=bwCxFuTR7_TR2DpTvXgxYwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAQAAAAFAAAAAHvRIz4 
> AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABIhWQAAAAA=
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  1 09:09:59 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 08:09:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Left Front Fender Needed
In-Reply-To: <002f01ca70ac$3764f710$b1d2480c@DJN9Q661>
References: <002f01ca70ac$3764f710$b1d2480c@DJN9Q661>
Message-ID: <50CB39F1-0302-4CC0-8DBD-25AE461485C2@sbcglobal.net>

On Nov 28, 2009, at 8:27 PM, Gerald Rude wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Any one have a left front fender for sale?  the only portion that  
> needs to be
> good is from the center of the fender well forward.
>
> Please contact me off line.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Rude
> Prather California
> g.rude at att.net
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Gerald Rude
>   To: healeys at autox.team.net
>   Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 8:22 PM
>   Subject: Inner fender to fender spacing
>
>
>   Hi all,
>
>   I'm fitting the fenders to the car, and the left inner fender  
> well seems to
> have too much space between the lip to the fender.  The fender  
> stands at about
> 1 inch.  I compared dimensions to the other side, and the fender  
> well is short
> by 1 inch. This is the side that had the big shunt, and the frame  
> had to be
> replaced from the firewall forward on this side.  Anyway, the old  
> inner fender
> well was used, but I've tried to pull it outward, and have managed  
> about 1/2
> inch but I still have a 1 inch gap.  If I pull if further out, I  
> will have to
> reposition the upper shroud bracket on the fender well.  So my  
> options right
> now are to continue pulling, and reposition the shroud support and  
> possibly
> the inner shroud support which attaches to the inner fender well or  
> cut and
> splice in a section of sheet metal.
>
>   Is it necessary to have a small gap, say 1/4 inch or so?  That is  
> what the
> right side has, which was never in an accident.....Or can I get by  
> with the 1
> inch gap....??
>
>   any help much appreciated.
>
>   Jerry Rude
>   BJ8
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Gerald Rude
>     To: healeys at autox.team.net
>     Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 6:20 AM
>     Subject: Desperately seeking shroud
>
>
>     Hello all,
>
>     I still am seeking (desperately) a front shroud for a BJ7/early  
> BJ8.
>
>     Would any of you kind souls have one hanging in their garage  
> which may be
> repairable??  Or know of anyone who may?
>
>     Thank you so much,
>
>     Jerry Rude
>     Prather California.....
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 09:10:20 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:10:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Reamers
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912010721l26b319bcqd3429f972b854858@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1554609061.8107891259683820245.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Curt, 

I defer to your experience and knowledge; however, that's what happened to us. The U-bolts were previously untouched as far as we could tell, but when we tried to thread an SAE fine nut the nut jammed between about 3/4" down the thread--yes, we cleaned the threads first, and used new nuts--and when we thread-chased the U-bolt the die jammed in the same locations (both nuts and die ran up fine until then). 

I have no explanation, that's just what happened to us (can only surmise the TPI were slightly different). My dad wants to just double-nut the U-bolts--when he's not looking I'll replace them. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 




Bob, 

Absolutely, positively, no doubt in my mind! UNF = SAE Fine and UNC = SAE Coarse. It was set up this way when the British transitioned away from the Whitworth Standard. Now, 
. 
. 
. 
And there's more, but I won't go into them since they'll really obscure the issue, but just remember, to be Whitworth they MUST have a 55 degree thread angle. 

Cheers, 

Curt 


On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 9:01 AM, Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: 




re: "*Unified Fine (UNF)* - Identical to American SAE Fine and *Interchangeable*. The angle of the threads is 60 degrees." 

Are you sure about this one? For instance, the threads on the large U-bolt that fastens the axle to rear springs is noted as 'UNF' in, for instance, the Moss catalog. I believe they are either 5/16" or 3/8." Anyway, we tried to run SAE fine nuts on them--they'll go about 3/4" inch just fine, then jam. A thread chaser will go 3/4", then cut, then go 3/4", then cut, etc. 

Same story with some of the nuts and bolts on the shock hardware. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 

Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Dec  1 09:14:31 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 11:14:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>

Robert,

Make sure your son wears something that shows people he's Canadian; a maple 
leaf emblem on his collar, a Canadian flag pin, anything like that. It will 
make a huge difference in how much better he's treated throughout Europe and 
especially in France.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France


> Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.
>
>
>
> LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll 
> request
> that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.
>
>
>
> He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 years, way
> back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think with 
> my
> last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? ) 
> ...
> was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be some 
> French
> language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Dec  1 09:31:24 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 09:31:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5><C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net><4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net><000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
	<4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net><A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <71354409B38F4462911C5DB084CF5C6C@oscar>

..well, I spoke with Margaret at MoMa and she said they weren't plated at
all. Only painted on the inside. They have been using a Napa brand paint
(iron cast) to more or less duplicate the original external case color..
 I'm just the messenger...
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 7:50 AM
To: Rich C
Cc: 'Healeys List'; eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing

Hi Rich,

Agreed--seems too thin to be paint.  But, it's too gray to be cadmium, 
and too dark to be zinc, as far as I can tell.

Anyone on a first name basis with Nisonger or MoMa that can ask them?

bs


Rich C wrote:
> All that I have observed seem to have been a very dull greyish 
> plating. I don't think it was paint.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 09:52:30 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 17:52:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>

Better not to show you are a foreigner at all and always start with 
"Bonjour monsieur/madame/mademoiselle" or at least with "Excusez moi 
monsieur etc.". Europeans, esp. French, Italians, Spaniards, Portuguese, 
Germans do appreciate when at least you make an effort in their own 
language. It is not often that people are gauged by there nationality as 
long as you keep your voice down.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Rich C schreef:
> Robert,
>
> Make sure your son wears something that shows people he's Canadian; a 
> maple leaf emblem on his collar, a Canadian flag pin, anything like 
> that. It will make a huge difference in how much better he's treated 
> throughout Europe and especially in France.
>
> Rich Chrysler

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 10:28:53 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:28:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
In-Reply-To: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003501ca72ab$c1719160$4454b420$@rr.com>

Production of the Mark III (BJ8) began in October 1963.  According to most
of the world, except for the USA, the "year" of a car is the calendar year
in which it was built.  In the USA, the "new model year" begins in
September/October so that most cars (probably all) built in '63 and sold in
the USA would have been initially registered as '64s.

According to Clausager, there were 0 Home market cars, 0 right-hand drive
export cars, 1 left-hand drive export car, and 343 left-hand drive North
American export BJ8s built in calendar year 1963.  If any of those are
currently registered in non-USA countries, they are probably registered as
'63s.  The BJ8 registry has plenty of examples of cars that were "1965s" in
the USA becoming "1964s" when they went back to Europe.

The BJ8 registry has 10 cars claiming to be 1963s.  All except one of them
are in Germany or The Netherlands.  The exception is in Arizona.

Interestingly, the BJ8 with the lowest chassis number (25315) was not built
until 20 - 23 January 1964.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of gene stigen
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:26 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?

sorry
there were no BJ8s in '63,didn't happen to best of my knowledge,some late
'64s. cheers Geno
_______________________________________________

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 10:39:36 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 12:39:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in Hemmings S&E
Message-ID: <4B1554D8.4060201@comcast.net>

Did this make the list when I wasn't looking?

<http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html>

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Dec  1 10:44:59 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:44:59 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <000801ca72ae$010c26d0$03247470$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: 01 December 2009 16:53
To: Rich C
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France

Better not to show you are a foreigner at all and always start with 
"Bonjour monsieur/madame/mademoiselle" or at least with "Excusez moi 
monsieur etc.". Europeans, esp. French, Italians, Spaniards, Portuguese, 
Germans do appreciate when at least you make an effort in their own 
language. It is not often that people are gauged by there nationality as 
long as you keep your voice down.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Agreed. Not necessary to wear a badge. The Europeans don't...I live in the
UK and travel in Europe frequently and I don't see badges except, perhaps,
on sports gear....on ski gear for example.

Yes, keep your voice down. But, that's normal enough anywhere I'd have
thought.

A topic that's been skated around...better not to be thought to be from the
States/anti-American sentiment lingering in France etcetc? Well, were he
from the States in the first place he'd still be unlucky to encounter that.
It's easy enough to find French who are not George Bush admirers but the
great majority of them are polite, normal people on a one to one basis. I'd
not expect him to have any problems whatsoever - travel itinerary or
socially.

(It was different years ago. Churchill said to someone (Ike?) that neither
would the French forgive the British for not losing the war nor the
Americans for winning it! But that's pretty well all history now.) 
Simon

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 10:49:30 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 18:49:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <71354409B38F4462911C5DB084CF5C6C@oscar>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5><C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net><4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net><000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
	<4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net><A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>
	<71354409B38F4462911C5DB084CF5C6C@oscar>
Message-ID: <4B15572A.7080602@chello.nl>

Definitively zinc electro plated and later on cadmium plated, although 
it was so thin you could nearly rub it of. I have hundreds of these 
gauges and clocks, NOS and used. They are usually covered in surface 
rust in older cars that have been stored in damp conditions.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Dave Porter schreef:
> ..well, I spoke with Margaret at MoMa and she said they weren't plated at
> all. Only painted on the inside. They have been using a Napa brand paint
> (iron cast) to more or less duplicate the original external case color..
>  I'm just the messenger...
> dave

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 11:05:07 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 11:05:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
Message-ID: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>

Do any of you list participants have a good estimate of the compression
readings (psi) that one should get on a 4 cyl rebuilt  100-4 BN-1engine with
new rings, pistons, valves, etc.  Engine is just assembled with no break-in
miles so far.  Pistons are std 8:1 ratio with no competition or performance
mods.
TIA
Jack

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec  1 11:31:19 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 10:31:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical problem diagnostics
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W56C3991ECECE609BAA616ED59F0@phx.gbl>
References: <B8009371CCDB415C93AFEB466C0DDD66@PC1>
	<SNT103-W56C3991ECECE609BAA616ED59F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <967869.64440.qm@web110307.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

This is EE101 applied to a car battery being discharged when the car is parked
and not driven & isolating the current drain circuit when not obvious. With
battery shutoff switch and lack of fused circuits it is not as applicable to
AH as to others but it is definitely a procedure to remember, for shorts,
electric device current draw (not starter), etc. Also the double connectors in
the AH can isolate circuits as per elec. diagram.
Go to a Radio Shack & buy a
2 pack of 1.0 ohm, 10 watt resistors. 
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062290  They cost
$1.99.  Wrap the leads of the 2 resistors together(wiring in Parallel)to make
a 1/2 ohm resistor and then attach a alligator clip to each end, big enough to
clamp on the ungrounded battery  post (after disconnecting that battery
cable.  Note: battery disconnect switch should be 'on' and ign. switch 'off'.
Connect one alligator clip to the battery anode and the other alligator clip
to the removed battery cable( best to be on 'hot' post not ground).  This will
put a .5 ohm resistor in series with the removed battery cable.  You
absolutely have to have a voltmeter of some sort, a good digital vom is dirt
cheap.  Set the voltmeter controls to measure voltage, connect one lead of the
VOM to the battery alligator clip and the other battery lead to the + cable
alligator clip(parallel with the resistors).
  Using ohms law I=E/R where R
will be .5 ohms wired as shown, just reading voltmeter will tell you how much
current draw you have from a short or something left on .  For example, if the
voltmeter reads 5 volts,  5V/.5ohm= 10A current draw.  Then start pulling
fuses; when you pull the right fuse the voltage will drop drastically,; look
for a problem in this circuit.
  If no change or very little change in voltage
when you pull a fuse or connector, it's the wrong circuit.

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Tue Dec  1 12:01:35 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 11:01:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <000801ca72ae$010c26d0$03247470$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>
	<000801ca72ae$010c26d0$03247470$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4B15680F.4000108@pacbell.net>

Unless you want to be immediately identified as from the States, do not 
wear white sneakers!

Bill
Red Car


> A topic that's been skated around...better not to be thought to be from the
> States/anti-American sentiment lingering in France etcetc? Well, were he
> from the States in the first place he'd still be unlucky to encounter that.
> It's easy enough to find French who are not George Bush admirers but the
> great majority of them are polite, normal people on a one to one basis. I'd
> not expect him to have any problems whatsoever - travel itinerary or
> socially.

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Dec  1 12:10:46 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:10:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical problem diagnostics
In-Reply-To: <967869.64440.qm@web110307.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <B8009371CCDB415C93AFEB466C0DDD66@PC1><SNT103-W56C3991ECECE609BAA616ED59F0@phx.gbl>
	<967869.64440.qm@web110307.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <794508634B504EA8A416F2D9D5884D5D@oscar>

Why not just use an ammeter?
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Dryman
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 11:31 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical problem diagnostics

This is EE101 applied to a car battery being discharged when the car is
parked
and not driven & isolating the current drain circuit when not obvious. With
battery shutoff switch and lack of fused circuits it is not as applicable to
AH as to others but it is definitely a procedure to remember, for shorts,
electric device current draw (not starter), etc. Also the double connectors
in
the AH can isolate circuits as per elec. diagram.
Go to a Radio Shack & buy a
2 pack of 1.0 ohm, 10 watt resistors. 
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062290  They cost
$1.99.  Wrap the leads of the 2 resistors together(wiring in Parallel)to
make
a 1/2 ohm resistor and then attach a alligator clip to each end, big enough
to
clamp on the ungrounded battery  post (after disconnecting that battery
cable.  Note: battery disconnect switch should be 'on' and ign. switch
'off'.
Connect one alligator clip to the battery anode and the other alligator clip
to the removed battery cable( best to be on 'hot' post not ground).  This
will
put a .5 ohm resistor in series with the removed battery cable.  You
absolutely have to have a voltmeter of some sort, a good digital vom is dirt
cheap.  Set the voltmeter controls to measure voltage, connect one lead of
the
VOM to the battery alligator clip and the other battery lead to the + cable
alligator clip(parallel with the resistors).
  Using ohms law I=E/R where R
will be .5 ohms wired as shown, just reading voltmeter will tell you how
much
current draw you have from a short or something left on .  For example, if
the
voltmeter reads 5 volts,  5V/.5ohm= 10A current draw.  Then start pulling
fuses; when you pull the right fuse the voltage will drop drastically,; look
for a problem in this circuit.
  If no change or very little change in voltage
when you pull a fuse or connector, it's the wrong circuit.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 12:19:36 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 20:19:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <000801ca72ae$010c26d0$03247470$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>
	<000801ca72ae$010c26d0$03247470$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4B156C48.9020006@chello.nl>

You thought rightly but you forgot some Dutch, Germans and Americans who 
will make their presence very known.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
>
> Yes, keep your voice down. But, that's normal enough anywhere I'd have
> thought.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 12:24:45 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 20:24:45 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>
References: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>
Message-ID: <4B156D7D.2040807@chello.nl>

Generally you will not get a proper reading on the compression from an 
engine that has not been run in.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jack Newton schreef:
> Do any of you list participants have a good estimate of the compression
> readings (psi) that one should get on a 4 cyl rebuilt  100-4 BN-1engine with
> new rings, pistons, valves, etc.  Engine is just assembled with no break-in
> miles so far.  Pistons are std 8:1 ratio with no competition or performance
> mods.
> TIA
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 12:29:54 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:29:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in Hemmings S&E
In-Reply-To: <4B1554D8.4060201@comcast.net>
References: <4B1554D8.4060201@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DE743BD1-235C-4CCA-88C9-5A642EEDF13F@gmail.com>

You can see the full story here. Yes, it's me.   :-)  They got most of the
facts right!

http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html?GP=OTC-MJ175
2087487

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com







On Dec 1, 2009, at 12:39 PM, Kent McLean wrote:

> Did this make the list when I wasn't looking?
>
> <http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html>
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Dec  1 12:36:15 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 20:36:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <4B15702F.1060301@club-internet.fr>

That's true. I used to wear a "Canadian Armed Forces" jacket and I was 
always very well treated.
B

Rich C a icrit :
> Robert,
>
> Make sure your son wears something that shows people he's Canadian; a 
> maple leaf emblem on his collar, a Canadian flag pin, anything like 
> that. It will make a huge difference in how much better he's treated 
> throughout Europe and especially in France.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
>
>
>> Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.
>>
>>
>>
>> LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll 
>> request
>> that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.
>>
>>
>>
>> He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 
>> years, way
>> back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think 
>> with my
>> last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? 
>> ) ...
>> was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be 
>> some French
>> language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.
>>
>> Robert Duquette
>> Ottawa ON Canada
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 12:38:12 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 11:38:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <4B15680F.4000108@pacbell.net>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com> 
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl> 
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>  <4B15680F.4000108@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <173126440912011138m57e8a568mc60a147441b46672@mail.gmail.com>

just tell everyone you are Canadian.:)
Actually, my wife and I had a wonderful time in Paris over the summer. We
were worried about all of the horror stories we heard about being and
American. The people could not have been nicer. I agree it helps that we
tried to speak French, My wife far better than I, and yes we were polite. We
had a wonderful time. Just expect to spend more money in 24 hours than you
ever thought you would...

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:01 AM, Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:

> Unless you want to be immediately identified as from the States, do not
> wear white sneakers!
>
> Bill
> Red Car
>
>
> > A topic that's been skated around...better not to be thought to be from
> the
> > States/anti-American sentiment lingering in France etcetc? Well, were he
> > from the States in the first place he'd still be unlucky to encounter
> that.
> > It's easy enough to find French who are not George Bush admirers but the
> > great majority of them are polite, normal people on a one to one basis.
> I'd
> > not expect him to have any problems whatsoever - travel itinerary or
> > socially.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 12:56:50 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:56:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in Hemmings S&E
In-Reply-To: <DE743BD1-235C-4CCA-88C9-5A642EEDF13F@gmail.com>
References: <4B1554D8.4060201@comcast.net>
	<DE743BD1-235C-4CCA-88C9-5A642EEDF13F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9C3C8E5B-6E16-445E-81EA-DD102715010F@gmail.com>

Sorry, I guess you can only get there if you subscribe.

Randy


On Dec 1, 2009, at 2:29 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

>
http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html?GP=OTC-MJ175
> 2087487

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue Dec  1 13:09:35 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:09:35 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B482@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

Do not believe what was said here about French people. They are very
very nice. You just need to accept that they are superior to any other
human being on this earth (joking). They just do not want to show their
English is not as good as it should be to have a conversation. Show them
you are willing to speak some words of their language. Even you fail,
they see you had a try. Then they can be extremely helpful speaking with
hands and feet, asking others for you, and try to help you.
Just accept they are French and French people are very proud of their
own. Don't disturb that. Otherwise you loose.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  1 13:14:37 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:14:37 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <173126440912011138m57e8a568mc60a147441b46672@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com> 
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl> 
	<EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B1549CE.5050203@chello.nl>  <4B15680F.4000108@pacbell.net>
	<173126440912011138m57e8a568mc60a147441b46672@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B15792D.3080302@chello.nl>

Depends on the wife and the streets you allow to let her see (with the 
top notch shops). And do not sit down on a nice terasse but go inside 
for a drink. Restaurants are fairly cheap if you are a bit carefull as 
are hotels apart from 4 and 5 star. New York, San Francisco, Miami or 
Boston are more expensive I found.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

I Erbs schreef:
> Just expect to spend more money in 24 hours than you
> ever thought you would...
>
> On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:01 AM, Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 13:25:16 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:25:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
Message-ID: <282826607.10393181259699116710.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I used the Eastwood zinc plating kit to replate mine... worked great. 


Regards, Tom 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 13:30:08 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:30:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical problem diagnostics
In-Reply-To: <794508634B504EA8A416F2D9D5884D5D@oscar>
References: <B8009371CCDB415C93AFEB466C0DDD66@PC1>
	<SNT103-W56C3991ECECE609BAA616ED59F0@phx.gbl>
	<967869.64440.qm@web110307.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<794508634B504EA8A416F2D9D5884D5D@oscar>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912011230p6a7bc4bavee848b202f011737@mail.gmail.com>

Or give the hard job to the lazy guy, who will show you the easy way to do
it.
Disconnect one battery terminal and connect a 12V test light in series
between the battery post and the battery cable end.
If there is a draw that is large enough to be a concern, the test light will
light.  Start puling fuses or whatever until the light goes out.
If the test light does not light, there probably is no draw, but if you are
anal retentive, and want to be sure, at this point you can set your DMM to
the milliamp scale and hook it in series.  If you have a clock, alarm, or a
modern radio that has an electronic you will see a few milliamps, probably
way less than 20.
this is a normal and acceptable draw for these devices.
This is auto diagnostics 101.
Rick

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:10 AM, Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>wrote:

> Why not just use an ammeter?
> dave

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Dec  1 13:33:10 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:33:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <EE157AD1B1DD4FA2ABA508324D054A0A@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <20091201143310.OSZFU.1164935.root@ispmxfep13-z01>

Better than what/who??  Do I read "American" in this?

REgards
Tom

---- Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote: 

=============
Robert,

Make sure your son wears something that shows people he's Canadian; a maple 
leaf emblem on his collar, a Canadian flag pin, anything like that. It will 
make a huge difference in how much better he's treated throughout Europe and 
especially in France.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France


> Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.
>
>
>
> LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll 
> request
> that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.
>
>
>
> He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 years, way
> back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think with 
> my
> last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? ) 
> ...
> was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be some 
> French
> language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Dec  1 13:49:26 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:49:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B482@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B482@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <4B158156.2030404@club-internet.fr>

and you'll be "wie Gott in Franreich", (like god in France) isn't it Josef?
B

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com a icrit :
> Do not believe what was said here about French people. They are very
> very nice. You just need to accept that they are superior to any other
> human being on this earth (joking). They just do not want to show their
> English is not as good as it should be to have a conversation. Show them
> you are willing to speak some words of their language. Even you fail,
> they see you had a try. Then they can be extremely helpful speaking with
> hands and feet, asking others for you, and try to help you.
> Just accept they are French and French people are very proud of their
> own. Don't disturb that. Otherwise you loose.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/GERMANY

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Dec  1 13:43:56 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 15:43:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <173126440912011138m57e8a568mc60a147441b46672@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091201144356.KJIM7.1165265.root@ispmxfep13-z01>

My experience as well---after about 5 times in Paris and travelling throughout France and Europe---and living in The Netherlands for 5 years and Turkey 1 year.  I think it is how YOU treat people from any country, not where you are from.


---- I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
just tell everyone you are Canadian.:)
Actually, my wife and I had a wonderful time in Paris over the summer. We
were worried about all of the horror stories we heard about being and
American. The people could not have been nicer. I agree it helps that we
tried to speak French, My wife far better than I, and yes we were polite. We
had a wonderful time. Just expect to spend more money in 24 hours than you
ever thought you would...

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:01 AM, Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:

> Unless you want to be immediately identified as from the States, do not
> wear white sneakers!
>
> Bill
> Red Car
>
>
> > A topic that's been skated around...better not to be thought to be from
> the
> > States/anti-American sentiment lingering in France etcetc? Well, were he
> > from the States in the first place he'd still be unlucky to encounter
> that.
> > It's easy enough to find French who are not George Bush admirers but the
> > great majority of them are polite, normal people on a one to one basis.
> I'd
> > not expect him to have any problems whatsoever - travel itinerary or
> > socially.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From rkorn at simnet.is  Tue Dec  1 14:28:28 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:28:28 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in Hemmings S&E
References: <4B1554D8.4060201@comcast.net>
	<DE743BD1-235C-4CCA-88C9-5A642EEDF13F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3CC88C85F0034027A6A3B59DA8E1C999@velad>

Randy,
It4s a great issue with your car ( beautiful)and the Speedwell Sprite.
 The only thing that stood out was that " Two-tone paint wasn4t available on 
the 1004s" :(

Richard
BN2 blue over white :)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 in Hemmings S&E


> You can see the full story here. Yes, it's me.   :-)  They got most of the
> facts right!
>
> http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html?GP=OTC-MJ175
> 2087487
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100M
> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 1, 2009, at 12:39 PM, Kent McLean wrote:
>
>> Did this make the list when I wasn't looking?
>>
>> <http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/12/01/hmn_feature1.html>
>>
>> --
>> Kent McLean
>> '56 100 BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 15:44:37 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:44:37 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Trailering/AAA Flatbed Danger
Message-ID: <48720d20912011444r71b0b7dfg3897acc8d545c7ab@mail.gmail.com>

Please note that I said BEWARE!. AAA does send good folks to move your car,
but it is a crapshoot. If you remember, my experience to get the car to the
shop was great. It was on the way back that I ran into a non caring,
unskilled worker. Watching him did no good.  I did watch him, and tried to
explain that he needed some wood to make a ramp. He didn't have any, and
didn't know what I was talking about. You still have to be lucky to get an
AAA driver that knows what he is doing.  Don't trust that the driver will
know what he is doing, but be sure to be there to make sure he knows his
job, and does it.

When I initially called for a tow, I was cross examined by the person at AAA
who wanted every detail about why the car needed a tow. They said that no
company would not tow my car because they were afraid I would claim damage
that they did not do.

The company that AAA called, came was not afraid of the car, and did an
outstanding job. Unfortunately, the closest to the shop my car was in,
wasn't up to anything more than a routing tow.

One experience doesn't negate all the good ones, or all the bad ones. You
just have to treasure you car enough to be sure it is taken care of
properly, and I don't think AAA really cares.

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 15:58:05 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:58:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
In-Reply-To: <71354409B38F4462911C5DB084CF5C6C@oscar>
References: <20091130232000.UYBO7394.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<C770EB24-CF5E-46FE-B0F5-34A9227BBF93@cox.net>
	<4B145B7D.7030307@sasktel.net> <000f01ca7272$92436910$b6ca3b30$@com>
	<4B151B1F.7060007@comcast.net>
	<A9E194DDA779479D88355544DB7CB41F@LIFEBOOK>
	<4B152D2B.2080702@comcast.net>
	<71354409B38F4462911C5DB084CF5C6C@oscar>
Message-ID: <751d05480912011458l6bde879fx28dd8881cd084d0d@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Margaret must be getting senile in her old age, but I know that the several
sets of gauges for my 100 all had a thin zinc plating.

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>wrote:

> ..well, I spoke with Margaret at MoMa and she said they weren't plated at
> all. Only painted on the inside. They have been using a Napa brand paint
> (iron cast) to more or less duplicate the original external case color..
>  I'm just the messenger...
> dave
>
> frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
>  www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> blog: http://porterbikes.com/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 7:50 AM
> To: Rich C
> Cc: 'Healeys List'; eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] finish of gauge housing
>
> Hi Rich,
>
> Agreed--seems too thin to be paint.  But, it's too gray to be cadmium,
> and too dark to be zinc, as far as I can tell.
>
> Anyone on a first name basis with Nisonger or MoMa that can ask them?
>
> bs
>
>
> Rich C wrote:
> > All that I have observed seem to have been a very dull greyish
> > plating. I don't think it was paint.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Dec  1 16:07:34 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 18:07:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
References: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>
Message-ID: <8803886D7A004025B01DFF7C5390991D@LIFEBOOK>

Jack,

Just as an aside, as I understand it, standard pistons for the Hundred were 
7.5 to 1 ratio. The Le Mans kit pistons were offered in 8.1 to 1 or 8.5 to1

Rich Chrysler



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack Newton" <jmnewt at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 1:05 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement


> Do any of you list participants have a good estimate of the compression
> readings (psi) that one should get on a 4 cyl rebuilt  100-4 BN-1engine 
> with
> new rings, pistons, valves, etc.  Engine is just assembled with no 
> break-in
> miles so far.  Pistons are std 8:1 ratio with no competition or 
> performance
> mods.
> TIA
> Jack

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec  1 16:20:33 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 23:20:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Motorsports calendar
Message-ID: <BAY112-W38203BE7E73DE86C9FA5E4B8960@phx.gbl>

Is that anyone 'we' know in a blue over white 100 with Colorado License
plates?  The blurb mentions Arizona's Copperstate 1000.  Looks familiar to
me.


Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 16:56:21 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:56:21 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <8803886D7A004025B01DFF7C5390991D@LIFEBOOK>
References: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>
	<8803886D7A004025B01DFF7C5390991D@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <01B961ADF37D4C33B04A660B47828304@GregPC>

For what it is worth when I rebuilt my 100 engine with .060" over 8.5/1 
pistons and Le Mans cam I got readings in the neighborhood of 165-170 psi 
across the four.

At 8.0/1 I would assume you owuld be slightly lower but in the ballpark, I 
would think maybe in the 145-160 psi range with little variation from 
cylinder to cylinder (I forget what is considered acceptable 2-3%, or maybe 
5 psi or so on a rebuilt motor?) would be in the ballpark.

Greg Lemon

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  1 17:36:33 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:36:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
In-Reply-To: <4B15386D.1060605@htcnet.org>
References: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>,
	<4B15386D.1060605@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <COL121-W47C049210CA7B8B9C8E246A4950@phx.gbl>

There seems to be a lot of Phase 1's out there. Maybe we should get our own
registry.  One book I have suggests only about 850 came to the US.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 10:38:21 -0500
> From: javrugtman at htcnet.org
> To: gstigen at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
>
> Early 64s.  I bought and still own a 64 BJ8 Ph1 in spring of 64.
>
> John
> BJ8s
>
> gene stigen wrote:
> > Owning '63 BJ7&had '64 BJ7 phase 1&2,'65BJ8,still have very late '67 MK3
> > Phase2& early '53 100-4. Been driving, playing&working on them since
'69,sorry
> > there were no BJ8s in '63,didn't happen to best of my knowledge,some late
> > '64s. cheers Geno
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with Messenger straight from your Hotmail inbox.
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  1 17:47:35 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:47:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
In-Reply-To: <003501ca72ab$c1719160$4454b420$@rr.com>
References: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>,
	<003501ca72ab$c1719160$4454b420$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W32E7E8CC9EBB379A9A26FA4950@phx.gbl>

I'm trying to get the California black plates as a '63 cause the plate says
63. I cannot use it if it is a 64. I argued that YOM plates stand for year of
manufacture not model year. They are considering it.  American cars use to
come out in September dated for the following year. We use to go to the
Autorama every August to see what GM was coming out with for the following
year.
Rich Kahn

> From: sbyers at ec.rr.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:28:53 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
>
> Production of the Mark III (BJ8) began in October 1963.  According to most
> of the world, except for the USA, the "year" of a car is the calendar year
> in which it was built.  In the USA, the "new model year" begins in
> September/October so that most cars (probably all) built in '63 and sold in
> the USA would have been initially registered as '64s.
>
> According to Clausager, there were 0 Home market cars, 0 right-hand drive
> export cars, 1 left-hand drive export car, and 343 left-hand drive North
> American export BJ8s built in calendar year 1963.  If any of those are
> currently registered in non-USA countries, they are probably registered as
> '63s.  The BJ8 registry has plenty of examples of cars that were "1965s" in
> the USA becoming "1964s" when they went back to Europe.
>
> The BJ8 registry has 10 cars claiming to be 1963s.  All except one of them
> are in Germany or The Netherlands.  The exception is in Arizona.
>
> Interestingly, the BJ8 with the lowest chassis number (25315) was not built
> until 20 - 23 January 1964.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of gene stigen
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:26 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
>
> sorry
> there were no BJ8s in '63,didn't happen to best of my knowledge,some late
> '64s. cheers Geno
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
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ubl=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_Shopping_Giftsforthem_cashback_1x1

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Tue Dec  1 18:43:23 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:43:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8
Message-ID: <806sno$5gsvkd@pd7mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>

To lower a phase 2 BJ8, it is common to put metal blocks between the axle
and the springs.  It gives a much nicer stance to the car..similar to a
phase 1 BJ8.

 

Does anybody know the thickness of the blocks used?  I'm thinking of about
1"

 

Paul

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Dec  1 19:07:55 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:07:55 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8
In-Reply-To: <806sno$5gsvkd@pd7mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20091201200755.Z1PIO.1176551.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

FWIF, I lowered mine by having the springs de-stressed by a commercial spring place.  They wanted to know how much I wanted and I guessed at about 20%----the result was perfect for me.  I do not like the high rear look of the P2 BJ8.

tom
---- PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote: 

=============
To lower a phase 2 BJ8, it is common to put metal blocks between the axle
and the springs.  It gives a much nicer stance to the car..similar to a
phase 1 BJ8.

 

Does anybody know the thickness of the blocks used?  I'm thinking of about
1"

 

Paul
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Dec  1 20:29:15 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:29:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Electrical problem diagnostics
Message-ID: <15C39C35DF4141B394489DBAA9B6C72D@oscar>

 Members,

Didn't intend to sound flippant, but Digital Multi Meters are pretty
inexpensive and very handy for other household or business usage as well.
Obviously, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 If folks want to make their own tools or employ other methods I can't
argue, been there done that.  My point is when one introduces variables,
such as home made testers, there are always doubts as to the results when
the results are unexpected. YRMV in today's short hand.

 

dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 20:46:25 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 19:46:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] '63 BJ8?
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10912011940k2c2711d5w109df3281ecb5188@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SNT114-W1984900D0DF82D6F34A904A0960@phx.gbl>
	<003501ca72ab$c1719160$4454b420$@rr.com>
	<COL121-W32E7E8CC9EBB379A9A26FA4950@phx.gbl>
	<a3b984e10912011940k2c2711d5w109df3281ecb5188@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912011946l6e5cbbecm251a941027ba9363@mail.gmail.com>

::: Sigh:::
> The problem here is you need an older DMV clerk.
> Before California went to the blue and yellow plates in 1968-69ish, all the
> plates in the state were the same color and were turned in for a new set  of
> plates when the number/letter combo ran out.
> In 1956 the plates were yellow with black numbers.  The plates were
> embossed with the number 56 in one of the license tab wells. All the cars
> issued these plates got a plate embossed with a 56 regardless of the year
> they were issued.  So if you bought a brand new 1962 car, it would get a
> yellow and black plate embossed 56.  The 56 just represented the first year
> the plate was issued NOT the year of  the car.
> In 1963 as was the practice back then the state had run out of letter
> /number combos and everybody in the state got to go to the DMV and turn in
> their old plate and get a new black and yellow plate. ( I am old enough to
> remember the lines AROUND the block as my dad drove by the DMV.)
> So if in 1963 you owned a 1957 car you would turn in your yellow/black
> plates embossed 56 for a set of black with yellow number plates embossed 63.
> The black with yellow number plates were continued to be issued with the
> embossed 63 until the state went to the blue with yellow numbers.
> By this time, the DMV had wised up and realized that bringing in every car
> owner in the state to issue new plates was a huge drain on manpower, and the
> public hated it also, so from then on, a plate stayed good.
> If you have a buddy that has a non 1963 black plate car that is currently
> registered in California, you can prove this to the DMV by taking a close up
> photograph of the front license plate which will show the embossed 63.  they
> can run the plate on their computer and see it is a (65, 67, 56 whatever)
> Perhaps one of the listers has a black plate car and can help you out.
> FWIW I had a 1967 MGB with a black plate and yes it was embossed 63.
> I hope this helps you in your quest.
> Also don't be afraid to try a different DMV.  You can often get a different
> answer from another branch.
> Good luck
> Rick
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 4:47 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to get the California black plates as a '63 cause the plate
>> says
>> 63. I cannot use it if it is a 64.

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 21:02:48 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:02:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] more YOM
Message-ID: <5caeedb50912012002y476e845r80c43dad6878d646@mail.gmail.com>

i have black '63 plates (with the proper decal)  on my 65, 66, 67 cars.
ron

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 4:47 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I'm trying to get the California black plates as a '63 cause the plate says
> 63. I cannot use it if it is a 64. I argued that YOM plates stand for year
> of
> manufacture not model year. They are considering it.  American cars use to
> come out in September dated for the following year. We use to go to the
> Autorama every August to see what GM was coming out with for the following
> year.
> Rich Kahn

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec  1 21:08:48 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 04:08:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?france?=
Message-ID: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>

well, i for one am proud to be an american and spent 27 years of my life defending our way of life.  when travelling i always try to avoid france.  if i have to go there, i plan to wear white tennis shoes, a do-rag on my head, some body piercings and maybe a few really nasty tattooes.  that'll show 'em.    hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec  1 21:12:43 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 04:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?early_friday_funnies?=
Message-ID: <20091202041243.27291.qmail@server278.com>

what is the difference between a golf ball and a car?

tiger woods can drive a golf ball 400 yards.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 21:50:01 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 12:50:01 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] early friday funnies
In-Reply-To: <20091202041243.27291.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091202041243.27291.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912012050x7fae2dbdu3098446420ac6223@mail.gmail.com>

If you want the truth of what happened, you have to watch this Chinese
video, esp. the second part.  It is very helpful:

http://trueslant.com/jonpyle/2009/12/01/the-definitive-tiger-woods-video/

Wish we had news like this in the west.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 12:12 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> what is the difference between a golf ball and a car?
>
> tiger woods can drive a golf ball 400 yards.

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue Dec  1 23:29:42 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 07:29:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <4B158156.2030404@club-internet.fr>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl><173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com><43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC><6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B482@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
	<4B158156.2030404@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B496@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

 Bernhard,
Yes, that's what we say here.

But the origin of it is, we say "Leben wie Gott in Frankreich" (To live like
God in France), which means you can really enjoy your stay and have good food,
good wine, and all the comfort God may enjoy.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bernard Cristalli
Gesendet: Dienstag, 1. Dezember 2009 21:49
An: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France

and you'll be "wie Gott in Franreich", (like god in France) isn't it Josef?
B

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com a icrit :
> Do not believe what was said here about French people. They are very
> very nice. You just need to accept that they are superior to any other
> human being on this earth (joking). They just do not want to show
> their English is not as good as it should be to have a conversation.
> Show them you are willing to speak some words of their language. Even
> you fail, they see you had a try. Then they can be extremely helpful
> speaking with hands and feet, asking others for you, and try to help you.
> Just accept they are French and French people are very proud of their
> own. Don't disturb that. Otherwise you loose.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/GERMANY

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Dec  1 23:30:59 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 07:30:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4B1609A3.4080501@club-internet.fr>

French lay people just love Americans.
La Fayette, WWI and D-day in june 44 are deeply rooted in our minds.
What the French dislike (sometimes) is the decisions of US gvt.


healeymanjim at hansencc.net a icrit :
> well, i for one am proud to be an american and spent 27 years of my life defending our way of life.  when travelling i always try to avoid france.  if i have to go there, i plan to wear white tennis shoes, a do-rag on my head, some body piercings and maybe a few really nasty tattooes.  that'll show 'em.    hjim

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue Dec  1 23:34:55 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 07:34:55 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3C4B497@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

Does it help? I would rather enjoy my live.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 2. Dezember 2009 05:09
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] france

well, i for one am proud to be an american and spent 27 years of my life
defending our way of life.  when travelling i always try to avoid france.  if
i have to go there, i plan to wear white tennis shoes, a do-rag on my head,
some body piercings and maybe a few really nasty tattooes.  that'll show 'em.
hjim
___________________________________________

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 00:39:22 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 23:39:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <4B1609A3.4080501@club-internet.fr>
References: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
	<4B1609A3.4080501@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50912012339q5d91dfd3g4346114d8dcc53b4@mail.gmail.com>

my experience as well and I will test the theory again next may
ron

On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 10:30 PM, Bernard Cristalli
<bcrist at club-internet.fr> wrote:
> French lay people just love Americans.
> La Fayette, WWI and D-day in june 44 are deeply rooted in our minds.
> What the French dislike (sometimes) is the decisions of US gvt.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 02:53:31 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:53:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <4B1609A3.4080501@club-internet.fr>
References: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
	<4B1609A3.4080501@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912020153l6faed351o90a501b5e849a83a@mail.gmail.com>

All -

What Americans often misunderstand about France is they think the attitude
is directed at them because they are American.  That is completely
false.  Many of the offending French use the same attitude with everyone,
including themselves.  French from Paris, Burgundy and Provence all look
down on each other.  I guess if you are from Brittany you get the short end
of the stick.

That being said, many of the French I have dealt with in the country are
absolutely wonderful.

Strangely enough, my grandfather, who fought in the trenches in France in
the Great War, forbid my father from fighting in Europe in WWII because of
how he was treated in France in 1918, so my father signed up for Pacific
duty in 1943.

Ma father stayed in Asia and later met my mom in Taiwan in the 50's (who is
Chinese) so if it wasn't for French arrogance, I would not exist.

Therefore, I will always be forever grateful to the French for offending my
Grandfather in 1918.

Vive La France!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 2:30 PM, Bernard Cristalli
<bcrist at club-internet.fr>wrote:

> French lay people just love Americans.
> La Fayette, WWI and D-day in june 44 are deeply rooted in our minds.
> What the French dislike (sometimes) is the decisions of US gvt.
>
>
> healeymanjim at hansencc.net a icrit :
>
> well, i for one am proud to be an american and spent 27 years of my life
>> defending our way of life.  when travelling i always try to avoid france.
>>  if i have to go there, i plan to wear white tennis shoes, a do-rag on my
>> head, some body piercings and maybe a few really nasty tattooes.  that'll
>> show 'em.    hjim
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 02:59:49 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:59:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912020159sa0abeaek352701a942c020ac@mail.gmail.com>

Robert -

I had a lovely French aristocrat for a girlfried when I was living in
Vietnam in 1995.  I fully support this sort of travel, but I didn't speak
any French.

Incidentally, whenever I am in a foriegn land and am drunk and completely
abusive to everyone else, I let everyone know that "I'M FROM CANADA!!"  I
suggest all Americans repeat this particular phrase often when being rude,
it is very effective for our country's image.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 10:53 PM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.
>
>
>
> LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll
> request
> that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.
>
>
>
> He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 years, way
> back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think with
> my
> last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? ) ...
> was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be some
> French
> language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Dec  2 06:15:08 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 7:15:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <20091202040848.22435.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <20091202071508.PLTX0.1209778.root@ispmxfep11-z01>

I spent 12 years of my life defending my country and I love visiting France.  I find the people warm and friendly, not to mention the beautiful countryside and food.

tom



---- healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote: 

=============
well, i for one am proud to be an american and spent 27 years of my life defending our way of life.  when travelling i always try to avoid france.  if i have to go there, i plan to wear white tennis shoes, a do-rag on my head, some body piercings and maybe a few really nasty tattooes.  that'll show 'em.    hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Wed Dec  2 07:19:13 2009
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 07:19:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject:  Lowering a BJ8
Message-ID: <SNT104-DS17E609FF2BB4C7B86DBABEE9950@phx.gbl>

Attached a few photos of my BJ8 with 1/4 inch spacer and in conjunction with
conversion to tube shocks (both from Cape International), which as I recall
lowered it an additional 1/4 inch.  I resulted with a relatively uniform gap
all the way around the wheel arch.  1" I believe would be too low.

>From what David Nock recently told me, BT7 front springs will lower the front
some; which I plan to explore more.

James Sailer
66 BJ8

><((((:>   ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7...  ><((((:>
    ><((((:>   ><((((:>
                ><((((:>

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of JimS_002.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of JimS-003.jpg]

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Dec  2 07:51:40 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:51:40 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4, Atlantic diff on UK eBay
Message-ID: <001101ca735e$f5149f90$df3ddeb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

260513043674

Simon

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Dec  2 07:56:08 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:56:08 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 head on UK eBay
Message-ID: <001201ca735f$95422d70$bfc68850$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

260513056100

I don't know if it's the right one and, as I have a 3000, I'm only posting
this for others' interest.
Simon

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  2 08:03:26 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 16:03:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <20091202071508.PLTX0.1209778.root@ispmxfep11-z01>
References: <20091202071508.PLTX0.1209778.root@ispmxfep11-z01>
Message-ID: <4B1681BE.5080802@chello.nl>

I travel to France between 5 and 10 times a year to visit relatives, for 
holidays and for work. I have visited this country for over 50 years and 
my first serious girlfriend was French.

The people are generally very nice and helpfull (as in any country 
really) but often very formal in the beginning and they do appreciate 
good manners (who does not) and proper clothing. Waiters in Paris can be 
gruff, but it is part of the Paris experience.
 
Official meetings and conferences with the French generally is a cause 
for trouble, but that is equally true with Brits and Germans. They 
simply hate compromises and fight to the end to have it their way, so 
nothing gets done in the end.

It is the best holiday country in the world I know. You have everything: 
second to none touristic information in any town, stunning scenery of 
all kinds, perfect beaches, rolling countryside, high mountains, 
wintersports, moutaineering, rafting, beautifull cities and villages, 
castles, musea (do not miss the Bugatti museum and associated railway 
museum in Mulhouse or the car museum in the Imperial Palace in Compiegne 
just north of Paris), loads of history everywhere, good weather, perfect 
roads for relaxed driving in classics (avoid the motorways, boring as 
hell), extremely good medical services for all, good public transport, 
perfect wines and food (from $15-20 for a simple 3-course meal), good 
small and simple hotels (e.g. Logis de France) everywhere in the country 
for very reasonable prices, often with a perfect restaurant, shops for 
the missus to go wild, theatre, concerts etc. etc.

That I speak the language reasonably well does help though.
I am lucky as Paris is only a 4 hour drive from where I live.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Dec  2 08:48:07 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 07:48:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Lowering_a_BJ8_-_Cape_shocks?=
Message-ID: <20091202154807.19004.qmail@hoster902.com>

James Sailer wrote:

> ...and in conjunction with
>conversion to tube shocks (both from Cape International), which as I recall
>lowered it an additional 1/4 inch. 

Jim,

I'm running the Cape rear tube shock kit and it lowers the car via the use of insufficient travel on the rear shocks. When I installed mine, with the car on stands, the rear axle didn't rest against the rubber pads on the frame rails. The shocks limited the rebound travel. Obviously this problem would be exacerbated on the BJ8 with its longer rear suspension travel.

The Cape lower mounts consist of an approximately 1/4" thick plate which sandwiches between the spring and lower spring plate. This has a stud extending from it which is the lower shock mount itself.

After driving, both lower shock mounts bent upward and the one on the passenger side is cracked halfway through. At some point I plan on replacing Cape's rear shocks with longer-travelling SPAX units and repairing the lower plates.

I've found Cape to be communicative for Sales but not for Service.

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6 with Cape rear shocks

From buhler at memphisassociates.com  Wed Dec  2 08:48:27 2009
From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 10:48:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
Message-ID: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>

Is there any way to extend the adjustment of the Jet adjusting screw.  The
screws have bottomed out but I  still need just a little more enrichment to
get the carbs to perform when the pistons are lifted.  Thanks for your help.
Jon

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Dec  2 09:09:56 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 16:09:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4, Atlantic diff on UK eBay
In-Reply-To: <001101ca735e$f5149f90$df3ddeb0$@lachlan>
References: <001101ca735e$f5149f90$df3ddeb0$@lachlan>
Message-ID: <zJAEKXRUFpFLFwIy@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Anybody interested in this needs to check with the seller the ratio. If 
33/8 (4.125:1) then not very rare and virtually the same as an early BN1

However if 33/9 (3.667:1) then rare and valuable and does for the BN1 
what the 3.454:1 does for later cars. Well worth it for long distance 
driving and economy. However the speedometer will then need changing or 
re-calibrating.

Regards

>260513043674
>
>Simon
-- 
John Harper

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec  2 09:58:20 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 08:58:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
In-Reply-To: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
References: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <BA416B9B-5D33-4E0D-A2CD-39EA76E73D4F@sbcglobal.net>

Then you must have another problem.

Ignition timing, float level low, fuel volume, cam timing, vacuum leaks



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 2, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Jon Buhler wrote:

> Is there any way to extend the adjustment of the Jet adjusting  
> screw.  The
> screws have bottomed out but I  still need just a little more  
> enrichment to
> get the carbs to perform when the pistons are lifted.  Thanks for  
> your help.
> Jon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  2 10:11:39 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 09:11:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hugh Sutherland not well
Message-ID: <584336.73098.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good Day;
 
I have just received word, via the Lotus Club of Canada, that Hugh Sutherland
has inoperable cancer of the lower bowel and liver.  He is in North York
General Hospital in Room 364, phone 416-756-6000   Ext.2364, and is waiting to
be transferred from the hospital to a palliative care centre.  If you feel
like giving him a phone call, evidently that is alright with Hugh.  Please
bear in mind that Hugh will be moved in the near future and the telephone
number will change.
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo!
Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Dec  2 10:16:01 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 09:16:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
In-Reply-To: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
References: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <222E55D0-5A86-4A4E-8B55-C4D1F868346F@cox.net>

What you want to do is make sure the carbs are in good shape. The only  
scenario that a common Healey would have in not getting rich enough is  
an air leak.

If you just want to get richer, change needles.

BTW: your choke control should get it plenty rich.

Wilko

On Dec 2, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Jon Buhler wrote:

> Is there any way to extend the adjustment of the Jet adjusting  
> screw.  The
> screws have bottomed out but I  still need just a little more  
> enrichment to
> get the carbs to perform when the pistons are lifted.  Thanks for  
> your help.
> Jon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 10:54:21 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:54:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
In-Reply-To: <BA416B9B-5D33-4E0D-A2CD-39EA76E73D4F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1828956561.8598321259776461333.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Are the needles correctly positioned in the vacuum piston? 

My guess is float level. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Then you must have another problem. 

Ignition timing, float level low, fuel volume, cam timing, vacuum leaks 



David Nock 
British Car Specialists 
Stockton Ca 95205 
209-948-8767 

www.britishcarspecialists.com 


On Dec 2, 2009, at 7:48 AM, Jon Buhler wrote: 

> Is there any way to extend the adjustment of the Jet adjusting 
> screw. The 
> screws have bottomed out but I still need just a little more 
> enrichment to 
> get the carbs to perform when the pistons are lifted. Thanks for 
> your help. 
> Jon 

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Dec  2 10:54:25 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:54:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 head on UK eBay
In-Reply-To: <001201ca735f$95422d70$bfc68850$@lachlan>
References: <001201ca735f$95422d70$bfc68850$@lachlan>
Message-ID: <iaRwebSRnqFLFw7Q@jharper.demon.co.uk>

I am sorry to have to say this but this is not an original A-H 100, A70 
or A90 Atlantic head. The give away is that it has the three stud 
thermostat housing of a later 2.2 or 2.5 litre engine. It quite likely 
came off an Austin Gypsy but could also have been another BMC vehicle 
fitted with a four cylinder petrol engine around that time.

It could be used in emergency on a 100 and I know of a handful of owners 
who have taken this route. These later heads appear to be less crack 
prone but you will need a different thermostat housing. One from a later 
Rover Metro can be made to fit. Compression Ratio is still about the 
same but with smaller inlet valves the engine appears to run less smooth 
but not so as to be annoying.

Regards

>260513056100
>
>I don't know if it's the right one and, as I have a 3000, I'm only posting
>this for others' interest.
>Simon
-- 
John Harper

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  2 11:02:16 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 19:02:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
In-Reply-To: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
References: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <4B16ABA8.8040109@chello.nl>

If you cannot get a richer mixture with an SU something is amiss. False 
air, wrong jet, wrong needle, wrong spring, wrong fuel level, wrong 
(heavy) oil in damper.
Before playing around with the carbs make sure that valve clearances, 
valve timing, ingnition timing are spot on. If these are off you will 
get the wrong readings.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Jon Buhler schreef:
> Is there any way to extend the adjustment of the Jet adjusting screw.  The
> screws have bottomed out but I  still need just a little more enrichment to
> get the carbs to perform when the pistons are lifted.  Thanks for your help.
> Jon

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Wed Dec  2 11:10:39 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:10:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Maybe of interest to the list: Dangerous Tires Video
In-Reply-To: <8CC40FE665BD50F-192C-E7E8@webmail-m061.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC40FE665BD50F-192C-E7E8@webmail-m061.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CC4191E3A32F0E-3758-7A14@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>

This is by ABC news about aged tires.




THIS VIDEO IS WORTH THE WATCH.  PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO SEE IT.  COULD SAVE
YOUR LIFE.    AND ....  CHECK YOUR TIRES OR HAVE THEM CHECKED.


There is a 30 sec. commercial
at first ---- and then the video.  The video is well worth watching.  Please
watch until the end,
Because some of the most important stuff you need to hear and see are
past the middle of the segment.   It could save your life or that of
someone you love.
    http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

Larry Wendland
'67 BJ8


=

From coll44 at msn.com  Wed Dec  2 12:01:04 2009
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:01:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <01B961ADF37D4C33B04A660B47828304@GregPC>
References: <A1F9F12A3C0A45D9A3CE46975AB6A548@jackniolfz37if>,
	<8803886D7A004025B01DFF7C5390991D@LIFEBOOK>,
	<01B961ADF37D4C33B04A660B47828304@GregPC>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W26C0D7E05A7CAA30A9DCB8C9950@phx.gbl>

Sorry, but I'm not following the math here.  Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi
(at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi.
Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is?



Terry Coll  '64 BJ8

> From: glemon at neb.rr.com
> To: jmnewt at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:56:21 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
>
> For what it is worth when I rebuilt my 100 engine with .060" over 8.5/1
> pistons and Le Mans cam I got readings in the neighborhood of 165-170 psi
> across the four.
>
> At 8.0/1 I would assume you owuld be slightly lower but in the ballpark, I
> would think maybe in the 145-160 psi range with little variation from
> cylinder to cylinder (I forget what is considered acceptable 2-3%, or maybe
> 5 psi or so on a rebuilt motor?) would be in the ballpark.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coll44 at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Dec  2 12:29:42 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 11:29:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 Carb. Question
In-Reply-To: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
References: <6a02a52456af4d66872a7488f0fa1839@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342005F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Jon,
Something related could well be out of whack as others suggested, but if
these are brand new Burlen made carbs, you will find casting flaws that
prevent as much travel as on a 60's era BJ8.
Ken Freese

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Wed Dec  2 12:38:03 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 20:38:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <4B1681BE.5080802@chello.nl>
References: <20091202071508.PLTX0.1209778.root@ispmxfep11-z01>
	<4B1681BE.5080802@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4B16C21B.7000001@club-internet.fr>

What else could I say ?
Bernard, Paris, France


Oudesluys a icrit :
> I travel to France between 5 and 10 times a year to visit relatives, 
> for holidays and for work. I have visited this country for over 50 
> years and my first serious girlfriend was French.
>
> The people are generally very nice and helpfull (as in any country 
> really) but often very formal in the beginning and they do appreciate 
> good manners (who does not) and proper clothing. Waiters in Paris can 
> be gruff, but it is part of the Paris experience.
>
> Official meetings and conferences with the French generally is a cause 
> for trouble, but that is equally true with Brits and Germans. They 
> simply hate compromises and fight to the end to have it their way, so 
> nothing gets done in the end.
>
> It is the best holiday country in the world I know. You have 
> everything: second to none touristic information in any town, stunning 
> scenery of all kinds, perfect beaches, rolling countryside, high 
> mountains, wintersports, moutaineering, rafting, beautifull cities and 
> villages, castles, musea (do not miss the Bugatti museum and 
> associated railway museum in Mulhouse or the car museum in the 
> Imperial Palace in Compiegne just north of Paris), loads of history 
> everywhere, good weather, perfect roads for relaxed driving in 
> classics (avoid the motorways, boring as hell), extremely good medical 
> services for all, good public transport, perfect wines and food (from 
> $15-20 for a simple 3-course meal), good small and simple hotels (e.g. 
> Logis de France) everywhere in the country for very reasonable prices, 
> often with a perfect restaurant, shops for the missus to go wild, 
> theatre, concerts etc. etc.
>
> That I speak the language reasonably well does help though.
> I am lucky as Paris is only a 4 hour drive from where I live.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 13:16:10 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 20:16:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-W26C0D7E05A7CAA30A9DCB8C9950@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure beyond nominal. 

There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to google it right now. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi 
(at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi. 
Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is? 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 14:26:42 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 21:26:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Found a link: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio 

Look at: " Fault finding and diagnosis" 


bs 
-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure beyond nominal. 

There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to google it right now. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi 
(at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi. 
Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is? 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  2 15:28:25 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 23:28:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>

Allthough there are ways to compute the final pressure, it is very 
complicated and probably not very accurate.
You have to take into account pressure loss through leakage, heat 
exchange air/cilinder/piston, engine and ambient temperature, cranking 
speed, valve timing and overlap etc.
Most important is that all cilinders show the same pressure within ca. 
5% of each other and that there is no significant oil burning or 
crankcase pressure.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bob Spidell schreef:
> Found a link: 
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio 
>
> Look at: " Fault finding and diagnosis" 
>
>
> bs 
> -------------------------------- 
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
>
>
> Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure beyond nominal. 
>
> There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to google it right now. 
>
>
> bs 
>
> -------------------------------- 
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
>
>
>
> Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi 
> (at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi. 
> Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is? 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 15:37:35 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:37:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912021437n142bcdf5kf9c2660758242edb@mail.gmail.com>

Don't forget that everyone assumes their compression gauge is accurate.  The
truth is it could be off by who knows how many PSI.
I've seen two gauges disagree on the same engine by more than 20lbs.
With that in mind, I am more interested in how even the readings are from
hole to hole than I am in the absolute number.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 1:26 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Found a link:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio
>
> Look at: " Fault finding and diagnosis"
>
>
> bs
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
> Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure
> beyond nominal.
>
> There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to
> google it right now.
>
>
> bs
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7
> psi
> (at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi.
> Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 15:39:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 22:39:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1188387808.8741401259793594640.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

True, but the original question was '... compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi ...' 

The short answer is 'Ideal Gas Law.' 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Allthough there are ways to compute the final pressure, it is very 
complicated and probably not very accurate. 
You have to take into account pressure loss through leakage, heat 
exchange air/cilinder/piston, engine and ambient temperature, cranking 
speed, valve timing and overlap etc. 
Most important is that all cilinders show the same pressure within ca. 
5% of each other and that there is no significant oil burning or 
crankcase pressure. 
Kees Oudesluijs 
NL 

Bob Spidell schreef: 
> Found a link: 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio 
> 
> Look at: " Fault finding and diagnosis" 
> 
> 
> bs 
> -------------------------------- 
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
> 
> 
> Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure beyond nominal. 
> 
> There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to google it right now. 
> 
> 
> bs 
> 
> -------------------------------- 
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi 
> (at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi. 
> Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is? 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 18:26:10 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 09:26:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] france
In-Reply-To: <4B16C21B.7000001@club-internet.fr>
References: <20091202071508.PLTX0.1209778.root@ispmxfep11-z01>
	<4B1681BE.5080802@chello.nl> <4B16C21B.7000001@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912021726l2e15b519q4d01869910e8b47@mail.gmail.com>

Bernard -

You have to understand many American men have "hang ups" with the French
because your countrymen are always good at romancing our women!

By the way, I spent my honeymoon in Cote d'azure... loved it (except for the
angry union workers in my hotel in Nice!!).  I am tempted to move my 100 to
France so that I have something to drive there when I visit!  One of the
greatest countries in the world for classic car driving.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 3:38 AM, Bernard Cristalli
<bcrist at club-internet.fr>wrote:

> What else could I say ?
> Bernard, Paris, France

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Dec  2 18:41:39 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 19:41:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Longstone Tyres
Message-ID: <DBB658E05BC24A01A3CD5E3DF377FF0B@DANSTROM>

I am considering  placing an order with Longstone Classic Tyres out of the
UK.  Has anyone had any experience with them and would care to comment.

Dan 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  2 19:29:34 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:29:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Longstone Tyres
In-Reply-To: <DBB658E05BC24A01A3CD5E3DF377FF0B@DANSTROM>
References: <DBB658E05BC24A01A3CD5E3DF377FF0B@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912021829l5a5f6ee5rd9c48b7dca4ba7bf@mail.gmail.com>

Dan -

I have ordered from them several times.  Very professional and fast.
Shipping fees very reasonable (I don't know how they do it).  I get my tires
from them in the UK to HK in three days.

They have tires no one else has, and they even do special runs with many of
the European tire manufacturers for oddball sizes, like the 5.50x16 Michelin
radials I have on my A90.  No one else in the world has them.

Also if you need tubes, get them from them.  They have proper reinforced
michelin tubes for use in radials.

Highly recommended.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 9:41 AM, Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com>wrote:

> I am considering  placing an order with Longstone Classic Tyres out of the
> UK.  Has anyone had any experience with them and would care to comment.
>
> Dan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 03:26:48 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 04:26:48 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
Message-ID: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>

 From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!

<quote>
1900 into the 1940s

http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
</quote>

This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

</div>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 04:37:10 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 19:37:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>

How about this old car pic?

http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:

> From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
>
> <quote>
> 1900 into the 1940s
>
> http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
> </quote>
>
> This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
>
> </div>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 04:39:32 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 19:39:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] AH 4000
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912030339t55ab137cl47f490e162c6160a@mail.gmail.com>

I stumbled across this fun little french drawing of the AH 4000:

http://bp0.blogger.com/_R5VJQ2XQscA/SGCpTCl205I/AAAAAAAAARs/qCPfT6zR7qY/s1600-h/cabriolet+1.png

So chic!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 05:03:21 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 23:03:21 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
References: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>

I totally agree with Kees

"Most important is that all cilinders show the same pressure within  
ca. 5% of each other and that there is no significant oil burning or  
crankcase pressure."

Forget the number - look at the variance between the numbers, and look  
for the visible signals of wear - exactly what Kees said.

A Healey engine is made of 4 or 6 cylinders, which should all be  
operating the same. The critical issue is making each cylinder to be  
operating identically . Identical height pistons, identical combustion  
chamber volumes per cylinder, identical cam lift etc and so on. Why do  
you think balancing is so important in any performance reciprocating  
internal combustion engine?

Once you start playing with high compression engines, with huge valve  
overlaps, you'll realise how little the actual compression guage  
numbers mean on their own at starter motor/ idle rpm. The goal is as  
close to identical as humanly possible. Not a specific number.

Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com


Sent from my iPhone

On 03/12/2009, at 9:28 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Allthough there are ways to compute the final pressure, it is very  
> complicated and probably not very accurate.
> You have to take into account pressure loss through leakage, heat  
> exchange air/cilinder/piston, engine and ambient temperature,  
> cranking speed, valve timing and overlap etc.
> Most important is that all cilinders show the same pressure within  
> ca. 5% of each other and that there is no significant oil burning or  
> crankcase pressure.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Bob Spidell schreef:
>> Found a link:
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio
>> Look at: " Fault finding and diagnosis"
>>
>> bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>> Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising  
>> pressure beyond nominal.
>> There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to  
>> lazy to google it right now.
>>
>> bs
>> -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>> Sorry, but I'm not following the math here. Atmospheric pressure is  
>> 14.7 psi (at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild  
>> appx. 125 psi. Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain  
>> what it is?

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec  3 05:48:13 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 13:48:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B17B38D.5020909@chello.nl>

Hard to choose, depending on your age.
Kees Oudesluijs

Alan Seigrist schreef:
> How about this old car pic?
>
> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
>>
>> <quote>
>> 1900 into the 1940s
>>
>> http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
>> </quote>
>>
>> This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
>>
>> Ed
>> Please visit MY site at:
>> www.justbrits.com
>>
>> </div>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 06:47:33 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 05:47:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
References: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
	<C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B17C175.9030008@comcast.net>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 07:12:49 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 22:12:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
References: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
	<C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912030612m29f4ff94w82b9d6617ae1e000@mail.gmail.com>

Just another note on this:

compression is more or less self correcting once you get over 500 rpms, so
regardless of how good or bad your rings are, you will have plenty
compression for the engine to run normally, even with bad rings or a scored
cylinder.  It just may burn oil.

Main thing is to make sure the numbers are all very close, that helps reduce
stress on the crank and helps your car run smooth.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 07:18:09 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 09:18:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>

Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that.  It's 
interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in _une_ AC 
Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra.  If  a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not 
sure what car would be. :-)
Charlie

Alan Seigrist wrote:
> How about this old car pic?
>
> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
>>
>> <quote>
>> 1900 into the 1940s
>>
>> http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
>> </quote>
>>
>> This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
>>
>> Ed
>> Please visit MY site at:
>> www.justbrits.com
>>
>> </div>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 07:38:08 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 06:38:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
References: <481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4B16EA09.30201@chello.nl>
	<C7841B9D-6942-4908-9195-13392836C15D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B17CD50.9020205@comcast.net>


From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Dec  3 08:22:46 2009
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 10:22:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10912021437n142bcdf5kf9c2660758242edb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<a3b984e10912021437n142bcdf5kf9c2660758242edb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC42439943A1AC-9884-4821@webmail-d060.sysops.aol.com>

The compression readings will also vary depending upon wheather or not they
were taken with the throttle opened or closed.
Gary Hodson

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 08:51:16 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 07:51:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com> 
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <173126440912030751v6bede87br9c95d86f419444c9@mail.gmail.com>

you would think the snake named thing would be masculine....

On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:18 AM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>wrote:

> Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that.  It's
> interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in _une_ AC
> Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra.  If  a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not
> sure what car would be. :-)
> Charlie
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
> > How about this old car pic?
> >
> > http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '52 A90
> > '53 BN1
> > '59 Jag Mk IX
> > '64 BJ8
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
> >>
> >> <quote>
> >> 1900 into the 1940s
> >>
> >> http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
> >> </quote>
> >>
> >> This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
> >>
> >> Ed
> >> Please visit MY site at:
> >> www.justbrits.com
> >>
> >> </div>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
> of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From coll44 at msn.com  Thu Dec  3 08:58:12 2009
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:58:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BLU111-W26C0D7E05A7CAA30A9DCB8C9950@phx.gbl>,
	<686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W2690F8EF75BCB71806A02FC9940@phx.gbl>

Makes sense!  Thanks Bob!



Terry Coll



Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 20:16:10 +0000
From: bspidell at comcast.net
To: coll44 at msn.com
CC: glemon at neb.rr.com; jmnewt at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement




Compressing a gas causes it to heat and (try to) expand, raising pressure
beyond nominal.

There are formulas for computing the total compression, but I'm to lazy to
google it right now.


bs

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA



Sorry, but I'm not following the math here.  Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi
(at sea level) so a compression ratio of 8.5 should yeild appx. 125 psi.
Assuming I'm missing something, can anyone splain what it is?



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Dec  3 09:08:53 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 08:08:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AAD365DB-8711-437E-9A83-05940F87AE5C@cox.net>

They, as many refer to the "sexy" lines.
Also, vehicles (notably ships) are always addressed in the feminine in  
most parts of the world.

On Dec 3, 2009, at 6:18 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:

> Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that.  It's
> interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in  
> _une_ AC
> Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra.  If  a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not
> sure what car would be. :-)
> Charlie
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> How about this old car pic?
>>
>> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '59 Jag Mk IX
>> '64 BJ8

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Thu Dec  3 09:09:33 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:09:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] travelling assistance in France
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912020159sa0abeaek352701a942c020ac@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY112-W4650A198E8F5886A66C157B8970@phx.gbl>,
	<173126440911301444r79300c3eid2c107695fc89718@mail.gmail.com>,
	<43849415FF3E4FD0B6F29F5F5A27B27D@GregPC>,
	<BAY112-W1AF0CD9082B527145F6E8B8960@phx.gbl>,
	<ff59076c0912020159sa0abeaek352701a942c020ac@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W1CA76BC79590CD6D44DD2B8940@phx.gbl>

My kids are living larger than I and I fully support it.



I dated ( Canadian French ) girls without knowing the language.



>> am drunk and completely abusive



Does this happen often?  :)


Don't forget to say "eh!", eh!







Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:59:49 +0800


Robert -

I had a lovely French aristocrat for a girlfried when I was living in Vietnam
in 1995.  I fully support this sort of travel, but I didn't speak any French.

Incidentally, whenever I am in a foriegn land and am drunk and completely
abusive to everyone else, I let everyone know that "I'M FROM CANADA!!"  I
suggest all Americans repeat this particular phrase often when being rude, it
is very effective for our country's image.
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8



On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 10:53 PM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

Scenery is secondary.  He's going to see a girl.



LOL!  If he does need to talk louder and use the hand gestures, I'll request
that he put a US flag patch on to help your image.



He should know 'some' French.  He was in French immersion for 3 years, way
back when ... but he hasn't had much need to use it.  One might think with my
last name and that I grew up ... ( maybe that's not the right phrase? ) ...
was born and raised in the province of Quebec that there might be some French
language in me somewhere to pass down, but alas, no.


Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 09:15:50 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 03:15:50 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8 - Cape shocks
In-Reply-To: <20091202154807.19004.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20091202154807.19004.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <A4C01831-2EBD-44B8-AEF2-EC2784F8EEA0@gmail.com>

Springs determine ride height.
Shocks (dampers) determine oscilation of springs.
If you don't understand the principles, your Healey will never handle.
i.e shocks stop springs from oscilating. They dampen (stop/limit)  
spring oscilation (the bounce in a spring) They don't determine ride  
height.
In my experience, the easiest way to lower a BJ8 is to fit earlier  
3000 (ie Mk I/ ii rear) springs, and drill out the centre locating  
bolt hole to fit the BJ8 one.
Then you can use an earlier 3000 competition main leaf, if you need to.
I did.
And I used 1/2 inch lowering blocks.
Then worry about your shocks.
I still have Armstrong lever arms.
But then, I'm an old school kinda guy.
And the maths said they were cine. At the back, with leaf springs.

Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com.

Sent from my iPhone

On 03/12/2009, at 2:48 AM, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>  
wrote:

> James Sailer wrote:
>
>> ...and in conjunction with
>> conversion to tube shocks (both from Cape International), which as  
>> I recall
>> lowered it an additional 1/4 inch.
>
> Jim,
>
> I'm running the Cape rear tube shock kit and it lowers the car via  
> the use of insufficient travel on the rear shocks. When I installed  
> mine, with the car on stands, the rear axle didn't rest against the  
> rubber pads on the frame rails. The shocks limited the rebound  
> travel. Obviously this problem would be exacerbated on the BJ8 with  
> its longer rear suspension travel.
>
> The Cape lower mounts consist of an approximately 1/4" thick plate  
> which sandwiches between the spring and lower spring plate. This has  
> a stud extending from it which is the lower shock mount itself.
>
> After driving, both lower shock mounts bent upward and the one on  
> the passenger side is cracked halfway through. At some point I plan  
> on replacing Cape's rear shocks with longer-travelling SPAX units  
> and repairing the lower plates.
>
> I've found Cape to be communicative for Sales but not for Service.
>
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> BN6 with Cape rear shocks

From dan at warner-associates.com  Thu Dec  3 09:20:53 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:20:53 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Longstone Tyres
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912021829l5a5f6ee5rd9c48b7dca4ba7bf@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5435E3E534234F909ED34F998834FC18@DANSTROM>

Thanks Alan.  I just place an order for new Dunlop Roadspeed RS5 tyres.
Universal wanted about $100 more per tire.  Longstone's shipping was very
reasonable.

Dan

 

 

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 8:30 PM
To: Dan Stromquist
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longstone Tyres

 

Dan -

 

I have ordered from them several times.  Very professional and fast.
Shipping fees very reasonable (I don't know how they do it).  I get my tires
from them in the UK to HK in three days.

 

They have tires no one else has, and they even do special runs with many of
the European tire manufacturers for oddball sizes, like the 5.50x16 Michelin
radials I have on my A90.  No one else in the world has them.  

 

Also if you need tubes, get them from them.  They have proper reinforced
michelin tubes for use in radials.

 

Highly recommended.


Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8



On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 9:41 AM, Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com>
wrote:

I am considering  placing an order with Longstone Classic Tyres out of the
UK.  Has anyone had any experience with them and would care to comment.

Dan
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec  3 09:32:27 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 17:32:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Cyl Compression Measurement
In-Reply-To: <8CC42439943A1AC-9884-4821@webmail-d060.sysops.aol.com>
References: <686080733.8669081259784970054.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><481268393.8703281259789202472.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<a3b984e10912021437n142bcdf5kf9c2660758242edb@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CC42439943A1AC-9884-4821@webmail-d060.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B17E81B.6060003@chello.nl>

Compresion readings should always be taken with the trottle fully open.
Kees Oudesluijs


warthodson at aol.com schreef:
> The compression readings will also vary depending upon wheather or not they
> were taken with the throttle opened or closed.
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Thu Dec  3 09:51:47 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 17:51:47 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B17ECA3.9060705@club-internet.fr>

A car is always female.
"Une" because it is a car. "Voiture" is feminine.
You say "un" only when it's a coupi, because it is "un coupi".

B

Charlie Baldwin a icrit :
> Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that.  It's 
> interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in _une_ AC 
> Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra.  If  a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not 
> sure what car would be. :-)
> Charlie
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>   
>> How about this old car pic?
>>
>> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '59 Jag Mk IX
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>   
>>     
>>> From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
>>>
>>> <quote>
>>> 1900 into the 1940s
>>>
>>> http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
>>> </quote>
>>>
>>> This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
>>>
>>> Ed
>>> Please visit MY site at:
>>> www.justbrits.com
>>>
>>> </div>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>     
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 10:36:47 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 09:36:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912030936w9ddfeb8wcc71ab632bee6e50@mail.gmail.com>

That is a fine piece of machinery.
The car isn't bad either.
Rick

On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 3:37 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> How about this old car pic?
>
> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
> >
> > <quote>
> > 1900 into the 1940s
> >
> > http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
> > </quote>
> >
> > This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
> >
> > Ed
> > Please visit MY site at:
> > www.justbrits.com
> >
> > </div>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Thu Dec  3 10:40:40 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 17:40:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>,
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W18E3E0ACE8F8E6EEC2CE70B8940@phx.gbl>

I'm not complaining.



Someone who is Francophone, please correct me, but I've been lead to believe
that there is a flow of speach that is involved in the gender designation.
une flows better than un in front of the AC.  I could be completely wrong ...





> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 09:18:09 -0500
>
> Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that. It's
> interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in _une_ AC
> Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra. If a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not
> sure what car would be. :-)
> Charlie
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
> > How about this old car pic?
> >
> > http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '52 A90
> > '53 BN1
> > '59 Jag Mk IX
> > '64 BJ8

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec  3 10:46:32 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 18:46:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8 - Cape shocks
In-Reply-To: <A4C01831-2EBD-44B8-AEF2-EC2784F8EEA0@gmail.com>
References: <20091202154807.19004.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<A4C01831-2EBD-44B8-AEF2-EC2784F8EEA0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B17F978.10608@chello.nl>

Not quite correct. If you have gas pressurized shock absorbers they will 
slightly increase the ride hight.
However shock absorbers should never limit suspension travel as this 
will destroy the dampers and or their mountings on chassis/body.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Kees Oudesluijs
Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Springs determine ride height.
> Shocks (dampers) determine oscilation of springs.
> If you don't understand the principles, your Healey will never handle.
> i.e shocks stop springs from oscilating. They dampen (stop/limit) 
> spring oscilation (the bounce in a spring) They don't determine ride 
> height.
> In my experience, the easiest way to lower a BJ8 is to fit earlier 
> 3000 (ie Mk I/ ii rear) springs, and drill out the centre locating 
> bolt hole to fit the BJ8 one.
> Then you can use an earlier 3000 competition main leaf, if you need to.
> I did.
> And I used 1/2 inch lowering blocks.
> Then worry about your shocks.
> I still have Armstrong lever arms.
> But then, I'm an old school kinda guy.
> And the maths said they were cine. At the back, with leaf springs.
>
> Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com.

From dpaye at crocker.com  Thu Dec  3 11:24:15 2009
From: dpaye at crocker.com (Donald Paye)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 12:24:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] New BN1 Wiring Harness
Message-ID: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>

I am looking for suggestions on the best source for a new wiring harness for
my BN1. ;I recently purchased a new cloth covered wire and cloth laced harness
from a long time reputable supplier but was disappointed to see that it is
laced with solid black thread. My original harness is covered in a brown weave
with black traces. I have been told that 100's were black with a white stitch
or trace through the covering. What is the quality of Moss's cloth covered
harness?  Appreciate any input. This will not be a concours restoration but
want as near original and good quality harness.

Thanks,

Don Paye

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec  3 13:11:32 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 21:11:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] New BN1 Wiring Harness
In-Reply-To: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>
References: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>
Message-ID: <4B181B74.1040002@chello.nl>

Possibles:
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/fr/1613~wiring+loom-details/
http://www.autosparks.co.uk/ (these are very well known)
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Donald Paye schreef:
> I am looking for suggestions on the best source for a new wiring harness for
> my BN1. ;I recently purchased a new cloth covered wire and cloth laced harness
> from a long time reputable supplier but was disappointed to see that it is
> laced with solid black thread. My original harness is covered in a brown weave
> with black traces. I have been told that 100's were black with a white stitch
> or trace through the covering. What is the quality of Moss's cloth covered
> harness?  Appreciate any input. This will not be a concours restoration but
> want as near original and good quality harness.
>
> Thanks,

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 13:56:46 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 12:56:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] New BN1 Wiring Harness
In-Reply-To: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>
References: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>
Message-ID: <751d05480912031256l6aa8d309r7da3086a8399a50c@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Don,

Long time since we've spoken

My BN1 also has a Brown and Black Harness.  So do other BN1 owners however
the patten never seems to be the same.

I did some research 10+ years ago and I was told by Ed and Leslie at British
Wiring that when the wiring was originally covered that the quality of the
black in the tracers cotton varied and while ALL the spools looked black
when new some of the black cloth has faded to brown over that last 55
years.  This is why for example the brown on my BN1 loom is more prevalent
that the black and just the opposite on other BN1s I've examined.

Think about this for a moment, a tracer in the black is supposed to be just
that, a contrasting color to identify the harness.  As I stated Mine is more
brown than black in some areas and vice versa in others and several other
harnesses I compared are never that same.  What Ed told me makes sense.

If you send "Rhode Island Wiring" your original loom they will match the
brown and the black, for a price.  I did ask Ed at British wiring about
doing the same thing and he thought I was foolish to try and match what he
considered a defect in manufacture.

Now I will say that Roger Moment and I are in total disagreement about this
issue and he thinks that this Brown tracer was planned at the Factory.  We
remain in disagreement to this day.

I hope this helps.

In Conclusion, the BN1 wiring looms were supposed to be all black and I
won't deduct at a Concours judging if they are all  black or black and
brown.

Cheers,

Curt - AH Concours Committee

On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Donald Paye <dpaye at crocker.com> wrote:

> I am looking for suggestions on the best source for a new wiring harness
> for
> my BN1. ;I recently purchased a new cloth covered wire and cloth laced
> harness
> from a long time reputable supplier but was disappointed to see that it is
> laced with solid black thread. My original harness is covered in a brown
> weave
> with black traces. I have been told that 100's were black with a white
> stitch
> or trace through the covering. What is the quality of Moss's cloth covered
> harness?  Appreciate any input. This will not be a concours restoration but
> want as near original and good quality harness.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don Paye
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Thu Dec  3 14:09:09 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 21:09:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>,
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
	<BAY112-W18E3E0ACE8F8E6EEC2CE70B8940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AE18A7FF26E646798EFD327AE68AD5DE@user8634b3d69b>

Everything french has been allocate a gender.  There is no rhyme nor reason 
as to which of the two genders the french have decided to use for any 
object.  BUT woe is you to choose the wrong gender as you not gain your exam 
results and you get laughed at in polite french society.  You get a couple 
of months in the Bastille in impolite french society.  If you refer to 
something as 'it' - gender neutral - you will be accused of murdering the 
french language and spend a couple of years in the Bastille followed by 
enforced signing up in the french foreign legion and you may not borrow my 
kepi or boots.

Seriously, to the best of my knowledge, there are no rules as to the 
allocation of gender to an object.

Guy R Day

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures


> I'm not complaining.
>
>
>
> Someone who is Francophone, please correct me, but I've been lead to 
> believe
> that there is a flow of speach that is involved in the gender designation.
> une flows better than un in front of the AC.  I could be completely wrong 
> ...
>
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 09:18:09 -0500
>>
>> Nice pic, though I'm a bit surprised that she posed for that. It's
>> interesting that the French think an AC Cobra is feminine as in _une_ AC
>> Cobra rather than _un_ AC Cobra. If a Cobra isn't masculine, I'm not
>> sure what car would be. :-)
>> Charlie
>>
>> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> > How about this old car pic?
>> >
>> > http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>> > '52 A90
>> > '53 BN1
>> > '59 Jag Mk IX
>> > '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as grday at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 14:16:00 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 13:16:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8 - Cape shocks
In-Reply-To: <4B17F978.10608@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <922522.37015.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If your brand of gas shocks control the car height that is not good - dont use
them.  Certainly dont use them to set the cosmetic height of the car.
Over-tech is not the way to go unless you are doing a seious chassis makeover
for serious track work - then it becomes a 'different car' from the road car
that we all own and drive.

Standard shocks work fine in my book if in proper working condition.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 12/3/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lowering a BJ8 - Cape shocks
> To: "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, December 3, 2009, 9:46 AM
> Not quite correct. If you have gas
> pressurized shock absorbers they will slightly increase the
> ride hight.
> However shock absorbers should never limit suspension
> travel as this will destroy the dampers and or their
> mountings on chassis/body.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Chris Dimmock schreef:
> > Springs determine ride height.
> > Shocks (dampers) determine oscilation of springs.
> > If you don't understand the principles, your Healey
> will never handle.
> > i.e shocks stop springs from oscilating. They dampen
> (stop/limit) spring oscilation (the bounce in a spring) They
> don't determine ride height.
> > In my experience, the easiest way to lower a BJ8 is to
> fit earlier 3000 (ie Mk I/ ii rear) springs, and drill out
> the centre locating bolt hole to fit the BJ8 one.
> > Then you can use an earlier 3000 competition main
> leaf, if you need to.
> > I did.
> > And I used 1/2 inch lowering blocks.
> > Then worry about your shocks.
> > I still have Armstrong lever arms.
> > But then, I'm an old school kinda guy.
> > And the maths said they were cine. At the back, with
> leaf springs.
> >
> > Chris
> > www.myaustinhealey.com.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 15:06:56 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 14:06:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Hugh Sutherland Doing Well
Message-ID: <866160.55560.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yesterday, I sent an email [see below] regarding Hugh Sutherlandbs health
after receiving a bulletin from the Lotus Club of Canada.B  An initial
confirmation from Michael Eddenden of the Lotus Club of Canada stated in part
b& bHugh was a works driver for BMC many years ago, if as an amateur.bB 
B However that Murphy Guy struck again.
B 
The Hugh Sutherland referred to by the Lotus Club of Canada Bulletin is NOT
the same Hugh Sutherland that was a well known works driver for BMC-Austin in
the 50bs and 60bs and raced an Austin Healey 100S and eventually became
the first owner of this BMC Canada works car.B  Hugh also had a famous
underground home in the Schomberg area and had acquired a vast collection of
really neat cars.B  In the Fall of 2001 I had the privilege to visit his home
as part of a club tour and to view his collection of cars, wines and world
wide artefacts, all underground.
B 
One of the recipients of that initial email contacted me and suggested that
there may be a mix up; that he had been in touch with Hugh Sutherland and that
he was fine.B  Today I received a call from Hugh who let me know that, from
his point of view, the Hugh Sutherland in the Toronto hospital must be his
doppel-ganger.B 
B 
In short, the well known BMC-Austin works race driver and wine connoisseur is
doing quite well. He is quite involved with his wine business and car
restoration projects.B  B He can be reached through his website
B http://www.carriagetradewines.com .B 
B 
I have apologized to Hugh for the mix up and I do so to you.B  I also request
representatives of the Lotus Club of Canada to convey my apology to their Hugh
Sutherland who has, according to the latest bulletin, been moved to the
Sunnybrook Hospital in Toronto.
B 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
B 
Re:B B B B B B B B B  [CMSHG] Hugh Sutherland not well
Date:B B B B B  Wednesday, December 2, 2009 12:11 PM
From: B B  "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
To:B B B B B B B "Canadian Motorsport Historical Group"
<cmshg at yahoogroups.com>, "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>




Good Day; B B I have just received word, via the Lotus Club of Canada, that
Hugh Sutherland has inoperable cancer of the lower bowel and liver.B  He is in
North York General Hospital in Room 364, phone 416-756-6000B B  Ext.2364,B and
is waiting to be transferred from the hospital to a palliative care centre.B 
If you feel like giving him a phone call, evidently that is alright with
Hugh.B  Please bear in mind that Hugh will be moved in the near future and the
telephone number will change.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 15:17:13 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 14:17:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Endurance Car at Millbrook
Message-ID: <654435.56781.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Some nice pics here:http://www.sportscardigest.com/austin-healey-endurance-speed-record-attempt-photo-gallery/ 

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Thu Dec  3 17:44:53 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 19:44:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures - now French
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>,
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B17C8A1.2050901@comcast.net>
	<BAY112-W18E3E0ACE8F8E6EEC2CE70B8940@phx.gbl>
	<AE18A7FF26E646798EFD327AE68AD5DE@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <4AA9FB767EC7451888299E671D42F499@universal1>

    If I remember, after Mark Twain published "The Celebrated Jumping Frog of
Calaveras County", he found a copy that had been translated into French. He
then re-translated it back into English, word for word and with French grammar
rules; pretty funny.

    Later,

                                                                             
   CB

From wpollock at inbox.com  Thu Dec  3 17:49:10 2009
From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 19:49:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
Message-ID: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>

Today I jacked the rear of the my car to remove the rear wheels.  With the car
in 4th gear,while removing the knockoffs,I noted I could move the rear wheels
3/8 to 1/2 inch back and forth before feeling the the resistance from the
transmission.  I haven't noted this large amount of play in the rear wheels
before and my question is,have I missed this movement in the past or do I have
excessive play in the rear.  With a tape I marked each hub and than with a
finger moved the hub  and the measurement is the same on both sides.
I appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

Bill Pollock
100-6

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 18:32:29 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:32:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] New BN1 Wiring Harness
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912031256l6aa8d309r7da3086a8399a50c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <29CB0274A42E412C92FD1773CFB64A00@DonaldPayePC>
	<751d05480912031256l6aa8d309r7da3086a8399a50c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912031732y5bd29abble9ebba54869f23b4@mail.gmail.com>

Donald -

Regarless of what you decide to do, I highly recommend you talk to Peter at:

http://thewiringharness.co.uk/index.htm

And he will make the exact harness you need, to your spec.  Note that not
only the USD is in the toilet, but the GBP is conveniently in the toilet
too, so exchange rates are decent.

Peter is old school, knows everything, and close to retirement, so if you
want a harness from him, better get it now.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 4:56 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Don,
>
> Long time since we've spoken
>
> My BN1 also has a Brown and Black Harness.  So do other BN1 owners however
> the patten never seems to be the same.
>
> I did some research 10+ years ago and I was told by Ed and Leslie at
> British
> Wiring that when the wiring was originally covered that the quality of the
> black in the tracers cotton varied and while ALL the spools looked black
> when new some of the black cloth has faded to brown over that last 55
> years.  This is why for example the brown on my BN1 loom is more prevalent
> that the black and just the opposite on other BN1s I've examined.
>
> Think about this for a moment, a tracer in the black is supposed to be just
> that, a contrasting color to identify the harness.  As I stated Mine is
> more
> brown than black in some areas and vice versa in others and several other
> harnesses I compared are never that same.  What Ed told me makes sense.
>
> If you send "Rhode Island Wiring" your original loom they will match the
> brown and the black, for a price.  I did ask Ed at British wiring about
> doing the same thing and he thought I was foolish to try and match what he
> considered a defect in manufacture.
>
> Now I will say that Roger Moment and I are in total disagreement about this
> issue and he thinks that this Brown tracer was planned at the Factory.  We
> remain in disagreement to this day.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> In Conclusion, the BN1 wiring looms were supposed to be all black and I
> won't deduct at a Concours judging if they are all  black or black and
> brown.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt - AH Concours Committee

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Dec  3 19:24:24 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 18:24:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
Message-ID: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>

For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their racing jacks
are currently on sale for $99.99

Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely with the
aluminum body - God bless globalization!

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec  3 20:04:46 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 22:04:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
Message-ID: <BAY124-W3882CD5DD6064F28809B67D4930@phx.gbl>

If you get oil leaking from your rear end on your rear brake shoes, then your
rear brakes become ineffective.  Most would just replace the rear hub oil
seals, gaskets, and o-rings.  There is three other critical things to also
consider.

First thing is to check the hub itself.  Many times the hub have burrs around
the edges that can keep the hub and axle from seating properly and making a
good seal.  If there are burrs just lightly file the edges flat with the hub
face.

Second thing to consider is the rear end breather that is positioned on top of
the rear housing on the right hand side from center.  It can be turned out
with a large standard stubby screwdriver or carefully turned out with pliers.
Clean it thoroughly and make sure the holes are clear so the rear end can
breath.  If the breather becomes clogged, the pressure (caused when the rear
oil heats up) can cause the oil to be forced out past the oil seals.

Third thing is to clear the rear housing oil drain holes that are located on
the rear axle housing just inside the rear brake back plates (at about the six
o'clock position).  These holes tend to get clogged up with road debris and if
your oil seals do leak they are designed to keep most of the oil out of the
brake drums/ shoe area and drain down the rear of the brake back plate.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1
&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 20:19:08 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 11:19:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
In-Reply-To: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
References: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912031919u38a55499j11b61fa99ce6cd51@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

This back and forth play will always be identical on both sides because of
the spider gear assembly in the differential will put the play to one side
or the other or both, depending on whether one wheel is being held in place
or not.

1/2" of play isn't anything to be worried about.  Just make sure your diff
is full of oil.

You probably should check your U joints while it's jacked up.  Put the car
in gear (give some resistance from the motor) then have a person hold one
wheel and spin the other one back and forth.  If you see movement between
the driveshaft and the diff or gearbox, then you know you U joints are bad -
pretty easy repair job while the car is up.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 8:49 AM, wpollock at inbox <wpollock at inbox.com> wrote:

> Today I jacked the rear of the my car to remove the rear wheels.  With the
> car
> in 4th gear,while removing the knockoffs,I noted I could move the rear
> wheels
> 3/8 to 1/2 inch back and forth before feeling the the resistance from the
> transmission.  I haven't noted this large amount of play in the rear wheels
> before and my question is,have I missed this movement in the past or do I
> have
> excessive play in the rear.  With a tape I marked each hub and than with a
> finger moved the hub  and the measurement is the same on both sides.
> I appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
>
> Bill Pollock
> 100-6

From amalin at mac.com  Thu Dec  3 20:40:19 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 22:40:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
In-Reply-To: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
References: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <3970F045-74AF-4A24-9EFB-D8004A86C5B0@mac.com>

This could be the wrong group to help you find out if you "have excessive play
in the rear".  ;=)

Al


On Dec 3, 2009, at 7:49 PM, wpollock at inbox wrote:

> Today I jacked the rear of the my car to remove the rear wheels.  With the
car
> in 4th gear,while removing the knockoffs,I noted I could move the rear
wheels
> 3/8 to 1/2 inch back and forth before feeling the the resistance from the
> transmission.  I haven't noted this large amount of play in the rear wheels
> before and my question is,have I missed this movement in the past or do I
have
> excessive play in the rear.  With a tape I marked each hub and than with a
> finger moved the hub  and the measurement is the same on both sides.
> I appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
>
> Bill Pollock
> 100-6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From david at dleong.org  Thu Dec  3 20:44:51 2009
From: david at dleong.org (David Leong)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 19:44:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
Message-ID: <000601ca7494$2e667990$8b336cb0$@org>

$79.99 on the web

Dave 


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 6:24 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks

For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their racing jacks
currently on sale for $99.99

Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely with the
aluminum body - God bless globalization! 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Dec  3 20:56:51 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 03:56:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B179268.6020506@comcast.net>,
	<ff59076c0912030337n6d75ab26y17ad644eb9051d63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W175577223217212773A77BA5930@phx.gbl>

Somehow I just don;t see any of the Unsers doing this...
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 19:37:10 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
> To: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting old car pictures
>
> How about this old car pic?
>
> http://www.leblogauto.com/wpg2/?g2_itemId=163986
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 6:26 PM, 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > From a NJ Spridgeteer !!!!!
> >
> > <quote>
> > 1900 into the 1940s
> >
> > http://mred-old-cars.blogspot.com/
> > </quote>
> >
> > This is VERY KOOL !!!!!!!   So ENJOY !!!
> >
> > Ed
> > Please visit MY site at:
> > www.justbrits.com
> >
> > </div>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 21:34:37 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 20:34:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
In-Reply-To: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
References: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <4B18915D.7090604@comcast.net>

Sounds like normal slack in the differential and gearbox to me.


bs



wpollock at inbox wrote:
> Today I jacked the rear of the my car to remove the rear wheels.  With the car
> in 4th gear,while removing the knockoffs,I noted I could move the rear wheels
> 3/8 to 1/2 inch back and forth before feeling the the resistance from the
> transmission.  I haven't noted this large amount of play in the rear wheels
> before and my question is,have I missed this movement in the past or do I have
> excessive play in the rear.  With a tape I marked each hub and than with a
> finger moved the hub  and the measurement is the same on both sides.
> I appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
>
> Bill Pollock
> 100-6
>
>   


*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 21:38:27 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 20:38:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
Message-ID: <5B14402B-F001-47B4-9C35-60C1569321C0@gmail.com>

Can someone make me a pattern tracing of front and rear tow hooks?  I  
want to machine some for my car. Please contact off list.
59BT7
I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

From 55healey at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 23:50:08 2009
From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 22:50:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
Message-ID: <E2288179-3756-408A-AB65-0519E7EC4586@comcast.net>

Most magazines like Popular Science and Popular Mechanics have 20% off  
coupons too boot.  Makes an even better deal.

Rob


On Dec 3, 2009, at 6:24 PM, Steve Gerow wrote:

> For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their  
> racing jacks
> are currently on sale for $99.99
>
> Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely with  
> the
> aluminum body - God bless globalization!

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec  4 00:55:02 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 08:55:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
In-Reply-To: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
References: <946A95EDDE4E4587BAB9245D717F2444@saybrook1>
Message-ID: <4B18C056.2070206@chello.nl>

This movement, play is caused by the differential and is perfectly normal.
Play is usually measured at the drive shaft flange with both wheels on 
the ground and on many British cars appearantly you should get worried 
if you can turn this flange for more than 90:. I prefer a lot less.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

wpollock at inbox schreef:
> Today I jacked the rear of the my car to remove the rear wheels.  With the car
> in 4th gear,while removing the knockoffs,I noted I could move the rear wheels
> 3/8 to 1/2 inch back and forth before feeling the the resistance from the
> transmission.  I haven't noted this large amount of play in the rear wheels
> before and my question is,have I missed this movement in the past or do I have
> excessive play in the rear.  With a tape I marked each hub and than with a
> finger moved the hub  and the measurement is the same on both sides.
> I appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
>
> Bill Pollock
> 100-6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wpollock at inbox.com  Fri Dec  4 06:51:15 2009
From: wpollock at inbox.com (wpollock@inbox)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:51:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] rear wheel movement
Message-ID: <982B94C5FBF14C79916EB40001528742@saybrook1>

Thanks for all the replies. Worries over with.

Bill Pollock

____________________________________________________________
Receive Notifications of Incoming Messages
Easily monitor multiple email accounts & access them with a click.
Visit http://www.inbox.com/notifier and check it out!

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Fri Dec  4 07:12:14 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:12:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
In-Reply-To: <5B14402B-F001-47B4-9C35-60C1569321C0@gmail.com>
References: <5B14402B-F001-47B4-9C35-60C1569321C0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W28BDDEE66E27D0D9AF1BEB8930@phx.gbl>

This says 'front'.



http://www.healeys.ca/towing_eyes.html

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )





> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 20:38:27 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
>
> Can someone make me a pattern tracing of front and rear tow hooks? I
> want to machine some for my car. Please contact off list.
> 59BT7
> I Erbs
> Sent from my iPod
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 07:23:57 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:23:57 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
Message-ID: <13c5.1a3b125.384a757d@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/3/2009 11:33:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
stmiller96 at hotmail.com writes:

First  thing is to check the hub itself.  Many times the hub have burrs  
around
the edges that can keep the hub and axle from seating properly and  making a
good seal.  If there are burrs just lightly file the edges  flat with the 
hub
face.



--------------------------------------------------------------
If the bearing surface on the stub axle ends (where the seals ride) are  
scored then filing them will not do the job and you will still get leaking  
into the brakes.  You can restore the sealing surface by installing a  
speedi-sleeve which is driven on over the stub.  It is just slightly  smaller in OD 
than the the original and will restore the effectiveness of  the hub seal.
 
Best--Michael Oritt 

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  4 07:58:05 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:58:05 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
In-Reply-To: <BAY124-W3882CD5DD6064F28809B67D4930@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY124-W3882CD5DD6064F28809B67D4930@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301ca74f2$2f6ada80$8e408f80$@net>

Back in the early 1970s, I helped a much older friend race his Bugeye in
SCCA H-Production.
He found that an O-ring from a Ford something was just oversized enough to
solve the oil leakage problem.
 
Ron
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of S and T Miller
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 9:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
 
If you get oil leaking from your rear end on your rear brake shoes, then
your
rear brakes become ineffective.  Most would just replace the rear hub oil
seals, gaskets, and o-rings.  There is three other critical things to also
consider.
 
First thing is to check the hub itself.  Many times the hub have burrs
around
the edges that can keep the hub and axle from seating properly and making a
good seal.  If there are burrs just lightly file the edges flat with the hub
face.
 
Second thing to consider is the rear end breather that is positioned on top
of
the rear housing on the right hand side from center.  It can be turned out
with a large standard stubby screwdriver or carefully turned out with
pliers.
Clean it thoroughly and make sure the holes are clear so the rear end can
breath.  If the breather becomes clogged, the pressure (caused when the rear
oil heats up) can cause the oil to be forced out past the oil seals.
 
Third thing is to clear the rear housing oil drain holes that are located on
the rear axle housing just inside the rear brake back plates (at about the
six
o'clock position).  These holes tend to get clogged up with road debris and
if
your oil seals do leak they are designed to keep most of the oil out of the
brake drums/ shoe area and drain down the rear of the brake back plate.
 
The Millers
"British Car Nuts"
 
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
 
1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
 
1964 MGB 40841
 
1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
 
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 08:17:44 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 10:17:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
In-Reply-To: <13c5.1a3b125.384a757d@aol.com>
References: <13c5.1a3b125.384a757d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W337CC70C4647B7E4880A44D4930@phx.gbl>

Very true.  I would never recommend filing the axle stub.  I was referring to
the hub itself.  The outing edges sometimes have burs on them that can keep
the surfaces from seating properly (o-ring/ gasket).

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."






From: awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:23:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye rear- tech tip
To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net



In a message dated 12/3/2009 11:33:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
stmiller96 at hotmail.com writes:
First thing is to check the hub itself.  Many times the hub have burrs around
the edges that can keep the hub and axle from seating properly and making a
good seal.  If there are burrs just lightly file the edges flat with the hub
face.


--------------------------------------------------------------
If the bearing surface on the stub axle ends (where the seals ride) are scored
then filing them will not do the job and you will still get leaking into the
brakes.  You can restore the sealing surface by installing a speedi-sleeve
which is driven on over the stub.  It is just slightly smaller in OD than the
the original and will restore the effectiveness of the hub seal.

Best--Michael Oritt
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1
&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Fri Dec  4 08:34:43 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 07:34:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission noise
Message-ID: <9D63F189-025B-490F-AEBC-2643D8FE4C0E@comcast.net>

Listers,

Recently I sought assistance from the Healey list members regarding a  
transmission noise I was hearing from my totally rebuilt drive line.   
I had removed the transmission/overdrive, clutch, propeller shaft and  
U-joints from my BJ8 and completely dismantled everything and replaced  
all worn parts with new components, particularly bearings, synchro  
rings, and thrust washers.  A few hundred miles after re-installing  
everything I began to detect a rattle associated with acceleration and  
a metallic tinkling sound when at a stop with engine running, in  
neutral with the clutch pedal fully out.  I got a number of very  
helpful suggestions from the list members but I have finally  
identified the sound source and it is not one of the sources  
suggested.  Perhaps this story will save somebody from making the same  
mistake I made.  Today I will once again remove the BJ8 interior and  
transmission/overdrive so that I can correct a drooping clutch fork  
that is allowing the throw out bearing to make contact with the first  
motion shaft.  I was so focused on the transmission that I missed the  
worn bushes on the fork shaft.  Oh well.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Fri Dec  4 08:33:44 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 07:33:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
	<E2288179-3756-408A-AB65-0519E7EC4586@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F232ABA8B5B746F685ABA741EAC14AA6@cardinalhealth.net>

These jacks work great for our little cars.  I tried to use this jack on a 
3400# car and it was on a very slight grade.  The jack started to bend.  For 
$79-99 , just beware!

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Fri Dec  4 09:30:58 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:30:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
In-Reply-To: <5B14402B-F001-47B4-9C35-60C1569321C0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <806sno$5ic2l3@pd7mo1no-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>

Check out this link from the AH British Columbia Website

http://www.healeys.ca/towing_eyes.html

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 8:38 PM
To: healey
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks

Can someone make me a pattern tracing of front and rear tow hooks?  I  
want to machine some for my car. Please contact off list.
59BT7
I Erbs
Sent from my iPod
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 09:40:36 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:40:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] thanks, got the tow hook drawings
Message-ID: <173126440912040840i26cb261ev1eb81a52c493dbff@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the reply. I got the measured drawings I needed. The machine shop
teacher at school will make them foe me out of Aluminum.


-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 09:45:23 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:45:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] right rear fender needed
Message-ID: <173126440912040845n12f3734fg61deb2f79bac4aa@mail.gmail.com>

My left (driver side) rear fender has rusted doglegs and a lot of bondo in
the rear of the fender. anyone have a decent replacement ? they want to
donate :) to the cause.... Ok I would pay for one if I had too.

59 BT7

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 09:53:45 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 08:53:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
Message-ID: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>

looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold air
box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any ideas
on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
Thanks

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Dec  4 10:01:51 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:01:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission noise
In-Reply-To: <9D63F189-025B-490F-AEBC-2643D8FE4C0E@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1653802332.100191259946111423.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks for sharing. 

I wouldn't have thought to check the clutch fork bushings ... I will now. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



Listers, 

Recently I sought assistance from the Healey list members regarding a 
transmission noise I was hearing from my totally rebuilt drive line. 
I had removed the transmission/overdrive, clutch, propeller shaft and 
U-joints from my BJ8 and completely dismantled everything and replaced 
all worn parts with new components, particularly bearings, synchro 
rings, and thrust washers. A few hundred miles after re-installing 
everything I began to detect a rattle associated with acceleration and 
a metallic tinkling sound when at a stop with engine running, in 
neutral with the clutch pedal fully out. I got a number of very 
helpful suggestions from the list members but I have finally 
identified the sound source and it is not one of the sources 
suggested. Perhaps this story will save somebody from making the same 
mistake I made. Today I will once again remove the BJ8 interior and 
transmission/overdrive so that I can correct a drooping clutch fork 
that is allowing the throw out bearing to make contact with the first 
motion shaft. I was so focused on the transmission that I missed the 
worn bushes on the fork shaft. Oh well. 

Marks 3 
'66 BJ8 

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Dec  4 10:36:50 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 17:36:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?harbor_freight_jacks?=
Message-ID: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>

not sure if i bought the racing version, but they had aluminum jacks for 59.95 a while back and i had a 20percent coupon i tore out of a popular science book from the barber shop.  i really love it because i do not have to crawl out from under the car to move the jack like the old steel one.  the new one is so light i can move it laying on my back and it has little handle on the side.  doesn't get any better than that!   hjim

From philritten at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 11:13:58 2009
From: philritten at aol.com (philritten at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 13:13:58 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
Message-ID: <1011.5e159148.384aab66@aol.com>

My father got me a "Roadmaster electric push button car jack", which  
appears to be about $50 online. It slides very easily under the frame of my '58  
and lifts it up quickly so that I can slide my floor jack or a jack stand  
underneath . Only trouble is that it works via a cigaret lighter (so I have 
to  pull another car up next to it to operate).
 
Phil
 
 
In a message dated 12/3/2009 9:29:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
david at dleong.org writes:

$79.99  on the web

Dave 


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve  Gerow
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 6:24 PM
To:  healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks

For  stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their racing  
jacks
currently on sale for $99.99

Mine came with a cool iridescent  blue handle to contrast nicely with the
aluminum body - God bless  globalization! 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA,  USA

BN6
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  philritten at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Fri Dec  4 11:15:02 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 10:15:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] thanks, got the tow hook drawings
In-Reply-To: <173126440912040840i26cb261ev1eb81a52c493dbff@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912040840i26cb261ev1eb81a52c493dbff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420072@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

If you make them out of steel, you stick a bar between them and use it
for a floor jack lift instead of the frame cross member.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 8:41 AM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] thanks, got the tow hook drawings

Thanks for the reply. I got the measured drawings I needed. The machine
shop teacher at school will make them foe me out of Aluminum.


--
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  4 12:02:45 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 11:02:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 BT7 Chassis
Message-ID: <7A0C4B9E-79DF-4EBB-AC2A-713AE8C2A441@sbcglobal.net>

We have just parted out a BN6 that has a pretty rust free frame.
It will need outer sills and possibly nothing else as for rust  
replacement.
It has been hit in the left front and the shock tower is bent back  
about 15 degrees. If anyone is looking at restoring a rusty BN6/7  
this would be a good donor chassis.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Dec  4 12:14:22 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:14:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <F232ABA8B5B746F685ABA741EAC14AA6@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>,
	<E2288179-3756-408A-AB65-0519E7EC4586@comcast.net>,
	<F232ABA8B5B746F685ABA741EAC14AA6@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <COL109-W126225BA826C4C8E4034AAAD930@phx.gbl>

I have found, over the years, the one of the best jacks to use is a jack from
a Clark Fork Lift. It scissors under the BJ7 easily even with a flat, and has
a high lift. It will also take a load of weight. Note how heavy fork lifts
are! It fits in the trunk neatly. It may take a little more room than the
Healey jack, but it works so much better.

Bill

BJ7
> From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 07:33:44 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
>
> These jacks work great for our little cars. I tried to use this jack on a
> 3400# car and it was on a very slight grade. The jack started to bend. For
> $79-99 , just beware!

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 13:29:16 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 12:29:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>

Be cautious with these jacks! I purchased one and loved the up part but it
crashed coming down every time. Scared the s--- out of me first time. I could
have been under it. I went back to the HF store and tried their floor models.
Same thing. I like it to come down slowly especially if I am putting jack
stands under. I bought a low profile steel one that works well but weighs a
ton.

> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:36:50 +0000
> Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
>
> not sure if i bought the racing version, but they had aluminum jacks for
59.95 a while back and i had a 20percent coupon i tore out of a popular
science book from the barber shop.  i really love it because i do not have to
crawl out from under the car to move the jack like the old steel one.  the new
one is so light i can move it laying on my back and it has little handle on
the side.  doesn't get any better than that!   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From rca53 at columbia.edu  Fri Dec  4 14:10:18 2009
From: rca53 at columbia.edu (Atkinson, Robert)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 16:10:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Roll Bars
Message-ID: <C73EE4EA.16793%rca53@columbia.edu>

Can anyone recommend a source for a non-racing rollbar for a BJ8 that fits
under the convertible top so that the top can be used in inclement weather?
Any idea about the cost?  Has anyone actually rolled a car with such a rollbar
installed and how did it perform?

Thanks

Bob Atkinson

From willig at wtnet.de  Fri Dec  4 14:35:51 2009
From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 22:35:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
Message-ID: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>

After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the right
side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh steering
lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the list able
to help me with a good s/h unit?  I have shipping addresses in the US and in
Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about shipping
issues.

 

Thomas Willig

From mkgoodman at att.net  Fri Dec  4 15:32:30 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:32:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tow Bars for jack placement
Message-ID: <001d01ca7531$ab61ef90$0225ceb0$@net>

Dear Ken,

 

I have both front and rear tow hooks and never thought to put a bar between
them to jack up the car, rather than the cross member.

Great idea!!!!

 

  

     Mark Goodman

     66BJ8 35503

     www.austinhealeyessence.com

From Mauser9 at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 17:00:34 2009
From: Mauser9 at aol.com (Mauser9 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 19:00:34 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Jack
Message-ID: <cd7.60adefff.384afca2@aol.com>

I use my ATV/motorcycle hyd jack to lift my BT7 to place my jack  stands. 
Plenty of clearance and pads are long to catch anywhere.  99.99 at  HF not on 
sale.
 
Don
62BT7

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Dec  4 17:20:06 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:20:06 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>

Richard, The Harbor Freight Aluminum Floor Jack is on my Christmas list, and 
I think my wife might even get it for me instead of the usual clothing items 
she seems to think are important.  You say the jack slams back down, most 
hydraulic floor jacks I am familiart with you are opening a valve to let 
them lower, the less you open it the slower it goes down, is this Jack 
different? or is the opening/release just hypersensitive?

Thanks, Greg

From bighealey at astound.net  Fri Dec  4 18:11:46 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:11:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2E4CD78C58AA4718A916F26AE963C877@Soderling>

I'm also interested in this topic for my Erika the Red.
Vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 8:53 AM
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000


> looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold air
> box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any ideas
> on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
> Thanks
>
> -- 
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bighealey at astound.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 18:20:20 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 12:20:20 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
In-Reply-To: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>
References: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>
Message-ID: <D54EAEE8-E58C-4BC5-B63C-2063B276E6B2@gmail.com>

So, are you looking for a right hand steering arm for a left hand  
drive BN2; or a right hand steering arm for a right hand drive BN2?

And we all thought the handed discussion was finally over.....

:-)
Right Hand drive BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

On 05/12/2009, at 8:35 AM, "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de> wrote:

> After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the  
> right
> side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh  
> steering
> lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the  
> list able
> to help me with a good s/h unit?  I have shipping addresses in the  
> US and in
> Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about  
> shipping
> issues.
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
> ___________________

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Dec  4 18:48:52 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 20:48:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
References: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>
Message-ID: <7917E9C31A7A4DBD82C5549ED06C645B@LIFEBOOK>

I took a bent lever to my local machine shop (owner has his aircraft 
mechanic's certificate) and for $35.00  and a good hydraulic press, they 
were able to bend it back exactly to original configuration. I had taken 
them another good one for accurate measurements and they got it to within a 
few thousandths of an inch.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever


> After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the right
> side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh steering
> lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the list able
> to help me with a good s/h unit?  I have shipping addresses in the US and 
> in
> Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about shipping
> issues.
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 19:01:26 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 02:01:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Roll Bars
In-Reply-To: <C73EE4EA.16793%rca53@columbia.edu>
References: <C73EE4EA.16793%rca53@columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <COL106-W13359D14E08F792652A73EC0920@phx.gbl>

Bob, If you install a "non racing" roll bar that fits under the top, then it
is worthless. If you roll, your head will extend above and beyond the area of
protection. That area of protection is determined by drawing a line from the
topmost front of the engine (which is the point that the front of the car will
crush down to and contact the pavement) to the top of the bar above your head.
The area under that line is the area of protection. The Brits that race under
the FIA guidelines, have bars that fit under the hardtops, but, it is a cage
that also has a another bar that goes across the top of the windshield. I
suspect that anyone that has rolled a Healey with a roll-bar that you are
contemplating is no longer with us and cannot help you with your question.
Richard Mayor

> From: rca53 at columbia.edu
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 16:10:18 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Roll Bars
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for a non-racing rollbar for a BJ8 that fits
> under the convertible top so that the top can be used in inclement weather?
> Any idea about the cost?  Has anyone actually rolled a car with such a
rollbar
> installed and how did it perform?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Atkinson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 20:25:38 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 19:25:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>,
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
Message-ID: <COL121-W60137DBDFD491618318158A4920@phx.gbl>

I could not get the open valve to open slowly. It was closed and wide open
with just a slight twist of the valve. Check it out before you get under or
raise the car very high. Maybe they just got a bad batch but go to your local
HF and stand on it and release the valve. My new jack and my cheapy from
Kregan both allow for slow decent.
Rich Kahn

> From: glemon at neb.rr.com
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeymanjim at hansencc.net;
healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:20:06 -0600
>
> Richard, The Harbor Freight Aluminum Floor Jack is on my Christmas list, and
> I think my wife might even get it for me instead of the usual clothing items
> she seems to think are important.  You say the jack slams back down, most
> hydraulic floor jacks I am familiart with you are opening a valve to let
> them lower, the less you open it the slower it goes down, is this Jack
> different? or is the opening/release just hypersensitive?
>
> Thanks, Greg
>

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
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From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Fri Dec  4 20:33:05 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 21:33:05 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Roll Bars
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W13359D14E08F792652A73EC0920@phx.gbl>
References: <C73EE4EA.16793%rca53@columbia.edu>
	<COL106-W13359D14E08F792652A73EC0920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B19D471.1090504@comcast.net>

<< Bob, If you install a "non racing" roll bar that fits under the top,
then it is worthless.>>

You beat me to it, Richard !!!

And "worthless" IS the correct word, Bob.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 20:54:00 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:54:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
In-Reply-To: <D54EAEE8-E58C-4BC5-B63C-2063B276E6B2@gmail.com>
References: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>
	<D54EAEE8-E58C-4BC5-B63C-2063B276E6B2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912041954o79fc0614r19a2cb3a0762cc06@mail.gmail.com>

Chris -

I think he's talking about the right hand track rod....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:

> So, are you looking for a right hand steering arm for a left hand drive
> BN2; or a right hand steering arm for a right hand drive BN2?
>
> And we all thought the handed discussion was finally over.....
>
> :-)
> Right Hand drive BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On 05/12/2009, at 8:35 AM, "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de> wrote:
>
>  After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the right
>> side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh steering
>> lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the list able
>> to help me with a good s/h unit?  I have shipping addresses in the US and
>> in
>> Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about shipping
>> issues.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thomas Willig
>> ___________________
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 21:10:47 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 23:10:47 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
Message-ID: <c3d.6c37634f.384b3747@aol.com>

(I want to machine some for my car.)
 
Why go to all that trouble when you can get them from Bill Bolton 
(_TRICARB at aol.com_ (mailto:TRICARB at aol.com) ) at Bolt on Healeys for a  very 
reasonable price. Bill Bolton has been making these items for years and  makes a 
super product. Why try to improve on something that has already been  done 100% 
accurate. 
No financial interest just a satisfied customer.
 
Marion Brantley
BJ8 Ph2-"Blackie"

From nir6709 at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 21:57:45 2009
From: nir6709 at aol.com (nir6709 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 23:57:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] hydraulic supply tank
Message-ID: <8CC437E9E3720CC-557C-4050@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>

Hi, my name is Bob,currently rebuilding a 60 BT7 love it.I know that somebody
on this list has rebuilt their duel supply tank,need to know what steps to
take to prevent leakage on the bottom of the tank.Thanks so much Bob Richmond

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Fri Dec  4 22:22:00 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 21:22:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Harbor_Freight_Jacks?=
Message-ID: <20091205052200.13598.qmail@hoster902.com>

FWIW - I used my new jack to lift up one side of the front of my wife's 240Z (no Healey endangerment allowed around here - but don't tell her!) about 6" and released it by turning the handle about 1/8 turn. It went down slowly & controllably but with a slight screeching noise. Not as bad as stepping on the tail of one of our cats, though. Nope, not that bad.

So far so good.

If it craps out at some point I will surely post a followup. You bet!

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
BN6

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 22:23:17 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:23:17 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] rollbars
Message-ID: <628A2394-3B5F-40A9-B425-5DD7001428AD@gmail.com>

Your comments are valid and true Richard, i agree with the sentiments,  
but you can, depending on the driver, achieve the desired outcome by  
careful attention to the other variables. The other variables with a  
single hoop, full car width rollbar are seat location (height) from  
the floor; driver "height" below the rollbar (ie how tall the driver  
is from bum to top of head whilst seated); and driver being firmly  
secured to the car.
For example, Joe Armor's LeMans (Le Mans?) right hand drive (sorry,  
couldnt help myself...) ex-works Sprite coupe has has the floorpan  
lowered under the drivers seat to achieve rollbar head clearance &  
safety compliance inside the coupe.
Many quite tall guys racing single full width hoop roll bar healeys  
have made a "lower" cushion on the drivers seat in order for the top  
of their helmet to be the mandatory 2 inches below the rollbar; and/  
or bolted the seat base directly to the floor without a; and/or moved  
the seat forward, and wedged the front of the seat base to tilt the  
seat back more backwards. All of which assumes you can still see the  
road....
Most single hoop full width rollbars also have either rear braces/ and  
or a forward brace into the passengers footwell.

The biggest issue these days, from personal experience, on road going  
Healys is compliance with road registration rules, engineering  
certificates/ manufacturer specs, and the product liability issues  
with roll bar manufacturers insurance policies. No roll bar  
manufacturer in Australia I spoke to will make & fit a roll bar to a  
road registered convertible these days. Just not worth their while in  
event of a fatality.

So unless you are prepared to engineer it properly, rather than just  
"bolt in a rollbar" I agree with Richard's sentiments. If you don't do  
it properly, the rollbar will be as much use as those (usually chrome)  
driver only "roll hoops" you usually see on MGBs. You know, where the  
hoop comes up to the middle of the back of the drivers head.... But  
fits neatly under the hood..

Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 05/12/2009, at 1:01 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>  
wrote:

> Bob, If you install a "non racing" roll bar that fits under the top,  
> then it
> is worthless. If you roll, your head will extend above and beyond  
> the area of
> protection. That area of protection is determined by drawing a line  
> from the
> topmost front of the engine (which is the point that the front of  
> the car will
> crush down to and contact the pavement) to the top of the bar above  
> your head.
> The area under that line is the area of protection.

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 22:42:04 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 21:42:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Roll Bars
Message-ID: <4b19f28c.9513f30a.3c39.460b@mx.google.com>

Worse that worthless dangerous . Could pin your head or crack it if your head
rocks back into it

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 7:33 PM
To: richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>; healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Roll Bars

<< Bob, If you install a "non racing" roll bar that fits under the top,
then it is worthless.>>

You beat me to it, Richard !!!

And "worthless" IS the correct word, Bob.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Dec  5 00:05:31 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 01:05:31 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com><COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
Message-ID: <C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>

Hey they call it an aluminum RACING jack, ever watch a NASCAR or F1 race? do
they slowly lower the car to the ground after changing the tires and filling
up with fuel in 6.2 seconds or so? NO! they drop it like a stone.

All kidding aside, I appreciate the input, it may already be hidden away
somewhere in the house, will give it a try, but will be extra careful with
it.

Greg Lemon

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  4 23:20:08 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 22:20:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Return to Bonneville Videos
In-Reply-To: <cd9.60a7709e.383592d4@aol.com>
References: <cd9.60a7709e.383592d4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091204221917.02025600@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Steven,
Great video, thank you for sharing.
John

At 01:11 PM 11/18/2009 -0500, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote:
>Here's the links to two little videos I shot for the Healeys Return to....
>enjoy ...

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 04:09:58 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 06:09:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
Message-ID: <000801ca759b$7bf895f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not using 
jack stands along with there
jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its such 
cheap, easy insurance. Many
of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the value they 
put on lives when it comes
to turning a profit.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 9:24 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks


> For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their racing 
> jacks
> are currently on sale for $99.99
>
> Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely with the
> aluminum body - God bless globalization!
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> Pasadena, CA, USA
>
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 04:15:40 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 06:15:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] hydraulic supply tank
References: <8CC437E9E3720CC-557C-4050@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001101ca759c$478c5e90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

The Moss catalog gives a pretty good pictorial of the washers that are 
needed.   British Car Specialist
books also show a good brake down of the washers needed.   The ones that I 
received appeared to be
an aluminum type and a special sized hole to fit tightly.  I don't remember 
any type of rubber seals that were
used which surprised me a bit.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nir6709 at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:57 PM
Subject: [Healeys] hydraulic supply tank


> Hi, my name is Bob,currently rebuilding a 60 BT7 love it.I know that 
> somebody
> on this list has rebuilt their duel supply tank,need to know what steps to
> take to prevent leakage on the bottom of the tank.Thanks so much Bob 
> Richmond
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat Dec  5 04:59:17 2009
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 12:59:17 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <000801ca759b$7bf895f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
	<000801ca759b$7bf895f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <D6A8D60B-5876-475C-B348-9E114B5A2B4B@pt.lu>

You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair  
for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete  
surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of  
torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and  
fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the  
fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down  
he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
Pieter
On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not  
> using jack stands along with there
> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its  
> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
> of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the  
> value they put on lives when it comes
> to turning a profit.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com 
> >
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 9:24 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
>
>
>> For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their  
>> racing jacks
>> are currently on sale for $99.99
>>
>> Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely  
>> with the
>> aluminum body - God bless globalization!
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Gerow
>>
>> Pasadena, CA, USA
>>
>> BN6
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 05:59:24 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 20:59:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <D6A8D60B-5876-475C-B348-9E114B5A2B4B@pt.lu>
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com>
	<000801ca759b$7bf895f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<D6A8D60B-5876-475C-B348-9E114B5A2B4B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912050459j60e3b29dgcc4d34340b07569e@mail.gmail.com>

I also used wood 2x4s under the frame for additional safety

On 12/5/09, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:
> You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair
> for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete
> surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of
> torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and
> fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the
> fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down
> he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
> Pieter
> On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
>> The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not
>> using jack stands along with there
>> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its
>> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
>> of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the
>> value they put on lives when it comes
>> to turning a profit.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com
>> >
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 9:24 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
>>
>>
>>> For stateside folks within range of Harbor Freight Tools, their
>>> racing jacks
>>> are currently on sale for $99.99
>>>
>>> Mine came with a cool iridescent blue handle to contrast nicely
>>> with the
>>> aluminum body - God bless globalization!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Steve Gerow
>>>
>>> Pasadena, CA, USA
>>>
>>> BN6
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Dec  5 06:56:02 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 8:56:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tow hooks
In-Reply-To: <c3d.6c37634f.384b3747@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091205075602.B4R3Y.1290791.root@ispmxfep12-z01>

I have his tow hooks on my BJ8.  Made good use of them when I shipped the car to Europe.  They fit perfectly.

tom

---- MBran89793 at aol.com wrote: 

=============
(I want to machine some for my car.)
 
Why go to all that trouble when you can get them from Bill Bolton 
(_TRICARB at aol.com_ (mailto:TRICARB at aol.com) ) at Bolt on Healeys for a  very 
reasonable price. Bill Bolton has been making these items for years and  makes a 
super product. Why try to improve on something that has already been  done 100% 
accurate. 
No financial interest just a satisfied customer.
 
Marion Brantley
BJ8 Ph2-"Blackie"
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Dec  5 07:14:08 2009
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 09:14:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
References: <008001ca7488$e5b2e040$b118a0c0$@com><000801ca759b$7bf895f0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<D6A8D60B-5876-475C-B348-9E114B5A2B4B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <10AB4BE78C6A49FBB87FF562D23BD580@atc0f226cd3237>

Solid hardwood blocks are also useful to ensure safety. They can often be 
obtained from boatyards. Mine are about 2-ft long and 10 inches square. 
It's easy to place them at strategic points.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks


> You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair
> for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete
> surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of
> torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and
> fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the
> fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down
> he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
> Pieter
> On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
>> The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not
>> using jack stands along with there
>> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its
>> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
>> of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the
>> value they put on lives when it comes
>> to turning a profit.
>>
>> Mark


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Dec  5 09:12:56 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 08:12:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] hydraulic supply tank
References: <8CC437E9E3720CC-557C-4050@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com>
	<001101ca759c$478c5e90$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <7852BC42D99F42D2A4FCA17A565EF649@XPS400>

When rebuilding my BN7 I tried to fit new washers of several types to seal 
the bottom fittings of the brake fluid tank without success.  Upon close 
inspection, I discovered that there was some surface rust or etching around 
the holes that just seemed to prevent the washers from sealing.  I gave up 
and purchased a new tank.  No problem after that with leaking.

Ron

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Dec  5 09:16:18 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:16:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
Message-ID: <150290728.12206761260029778875.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Buy American. 


(unless it's British, of course) 

Tom 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Dec  5 09:32:34 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 11:32:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
Message-ID: <006601ca75c8$8cdc5780$a6950680$@net>

Take a look at the method that I use that is on the Technical Page of my
site.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One Method of Raising a Car onto Jack
Stands.pdf


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 7:59 AM
To: Pieter and Linda; Mark LaPierre; Steve Gerow; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks

I also used wood 2x4s under the frame for additional safety

On 12/5/09, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu> wrote:
> You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair
> for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete
> surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of
> torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and
> fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the
> fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down
> he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
> Pieter
> On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
>> The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not
>> using jack stands along with there
>> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its
>> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
>> of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the
>> value they put on lives when it comes
>> to turning a profit.

From willig at wtnet.de  Sat Dec  5 09:35:54 2009
From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 17:35:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
In-Reply-To: <7917E9C31A7A4DBD82C5549ED06C645B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>
	<7917E9C31A7A4DBD82C5549ED06C645B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <000101ca75c9$043eeef0$0cbcccd0$@de>

Hi Rich,

thanks for the advice, I was thinking already about that, but I was to
scared, because I did not know which material it is made of.

Have a nice weekend


Thomas

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net]
Gesendet: Samstag, 5. Dezember 2009 02:49
An: T+ B Willig; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever

I took a bent lever to my local machine shop (owner has his aircraft
mechanic's certificate) and for $35.00  and a good hydraulic press, they
were able to bend it back exactly to original configuration. I had taken
them another good one for accurate measurements and they got it to within a
few thousandths of an inch.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message -----
From: "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever


> After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the right
> side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh steering
> lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the list able
> to help me with a good s/h unit?  I have shipping addresses in the US and
> in
> Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about shipping
> issues.
>
>
>
> Thomas Willig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sat Dec  5 09:50:46 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 08:50:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Noise
Message-ID: <8245D581-8D62-4AE1-9C09-95E74051E4BC@comcast.net>

Email listers,

As I reviewed the trail of emails regarding my recent effort to locate  
the source of a transmission noise I realized that I had failed to  
give credit to the gentleman who actually identified the problem.
Bob Macherone, owner of the Sports Car Shop in Eugene, OR is the man  
that put me on the right trail to finding the the drooping clutch fork  
that allows the T/O bearing to make contact with the first motion  
shaft.  Without Bob's initial suggestion to check for play in the fork  
it is unlikely that I would have found the sound generator.   It is  
only fair to give credit where it is due.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Dec  5 09:54:42 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:54:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a BN2 rh steering lever
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912041954o79fc0614r19a2cb3a0762cc06@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001ca7529$c0979930$41c6cb90$@de>,
	<D54EAEE8-E58C-4BC5-B63C-2063B276E6B2@gmail.com>,
	<ff59076c0912041954o79fc0614r19a2cb3a0762cc06@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W20AAE201274B541636115B8920@phx.gbl>

A picture is often worth a thousand words.  Perhaps, in cases like these, it
might be best to go to an online catalogue and send the link and number of the
part from one of the suppliers like:

www.mossmotors.com

www.ahead4healeys.co.uk

www.ahspares.co.uk

etc.
or a photo of the offending piece posted online??


Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:54:00 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Chris -
>
> I think he's talking about the right hand track rod....
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Chris Dimmock
<austin.healey at gmail.com>wrote:
>
> > So, are you looking for a right hand steering arm for a left hand drive
> > BN2; or a right hand steering arm for a right hand drive BN2?
> >
> > And we all thought the handed discussion was finally over.....
> >
> > :-)
> > Right Hand drive BJ8
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
> > On 05/12/2009, at 8:35 AM, "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de> wrote:
> >
> > After long measuring, comparing the lft side of the steering to the right
> >> side, aided by some members of the list, I found out that my rh steering
> >> lever on my 100 BN2 is seriously bend inwards. Is someone on the list
able
> >> to help me with a good s/h unit? I have shipping addresses in the US and
> >> in
> >> Europe were the part could be send. So don't be scared off about
shipping
> >> issues.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thomas Willig

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 10:07:17 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 10:07:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
Message-ID: <471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>

I also have one of those aluminum "racing jacks" from HF. I've had no
problems lowering cars slowly with it, and this even includes the
heavier ones like my Studebaker. The person who had the problem may
have gotten one from a bad batch.

I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.

Jody

On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 12:05 AM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> Hey they call it an aluminum RACING jack, ever watch a NASCAR or F1 race? do
> they slowly lower the car to the ground after changing the tires and filling
> up with fuel in 6.2 seconds or so? NO! they drop it like a stone.
>
> All kidding aside, I appreciate the input, it may already be hidden away
> somewhere in the house, will give it a try, but will be extra careful with
> it.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Dec  5 11:14:16 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:14:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Noise
In-Reply-To: <8245D581-8D62-4AE1-9C09-95E74051E4BC@comcast.net>
References: <8245D581-8D62-4AE1-9C09-95E74051E4BC@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8730680916B8462E81988CF6F85DD799@oscar>

Mark,
 Not to diminish any credit to Bob, but I think most of us who guessed at
your noise assumed that in the course of rebuilding a gearbox that you would
have replaced the release bearing and would have noticed that the fork was
drooping about an inch... shame on us..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Schneider
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 9:51 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Noise

Email listers,

As I reviewed the trail of emails regarding my recent effort to locate  
the source of a transmission noise I realized that I had failed to  
give credit to the gentleman who actually identified the problem.
Bob Macherone, owner of the Sports Car Shop in Eugene, OR is the man  
that put me on the right trail to finding the the drooping clutch fork  
that allows the T/O bearing to make contact with the first motion  
shaft.  Without Bob's initial suggestion to check for play in the fork  
it is unlikely that I would have found the sound generator.   It is  
only fair to give credit where it is due.

Marks 3
'66 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 11:14:22 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 13:14:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>

Boy, that endorsement makes me want to rush out and buy something from them!

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com






On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:

> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 12:04:00 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:04:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] wood block stands
In-Reply-To: <10AB4BE78C6A49FBB87FF562D23BD580@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <637483.96385.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

 You forget the car is in gear and you crank the engine , your car will be off
those wood blocks VERY quick ... now you have a big problem . Norman Nock

--- On Sat, 12/5/09, Alex <alexmm at roadrunner.com> wrote:

From: Alex <alexmm at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>, "Mark LaPierre"
<lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 5, 2009, 6:14 AM

Solid hardwood blocks are also useful to ensure safety. They can often be
obtained from boatyards. Mine are about 2-ft long and 10 inches square.
It's easy to place them at strategic points.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message -----
From: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks


> You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair
> for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete
> surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of
> torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and
> fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the
> fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down
> he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
> Pieter
> On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
>> The more I read the more it is apparent that some are actually not
>> using jack stands along with there
>> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get underneath gents.   Its
>> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
>> of these units are made in China and I don't have to mention the
>> value they put on lives when it comes
>> to turning a profit.
>>
>> Mark


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send
plain text.]
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 12:04:59 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:04:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] hs6 SUs for sale
Message-ID: <173126440912051104y15e6dae0p723748582c8586cf@mail.gmail.com>

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/1490716861.html

no financial involevment

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 12:06:31 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:06:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] MGC GT for sale
Message-ID: <173126440912051106nb0cb78dl1c52a16b2e2babcf@mail.gmail.com>

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/1492649119.html

willing to go check it out if interested
-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 12:30:07 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 13:30:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca75e1$5a992dc0$0fcb8940$@net>

I happen to have two of these jacks from Harbor Freight ("US General
Aluminum Racing Jack").
One I bought  some years ago which works fine.  The other came from a
friend's estate that seems to have the sudden lowering problem discussed
here.  So Jody may have a very valid point. However, it only takes a little
practice with turning the handle to minimize the sudden lowering issue.
 
Last week I received a mailing from Harbor Freight that included a $30 off
coupon for the same jack that currently list for around $99.  I friend will
be purchasing a jack for himself with the coupon.  It will be interesting to
see how the jack he buys works in the lowering mode.
 
Ron
 
 
-----Original Message-----


 
 
On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:
 
> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sat Dec  5 12:36:54 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 14:36:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <D6A8D60B-5876-475C-B348-9E114B5A2B4B@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <20091205193717.F4073187658@autox.team.net>

This is the reason that I rationalized buying a four post lift ten years
ago.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda
> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 6:59 AM
> To: Mark LaPierre
> Cc: Steve Gerow; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
> 
> You are so right Mark. I have a friend who will be in a wheel chair
> for life after not using Axle stands. The car was on a flat concrete
> surface, on a very substantial trolley jack. The simple act of
> torquing  up a nut was enough for the car to slip off the jack and
> fall, breaking his back and a number of ribs. Had it not been for the
> fact that his head was just clear of the gearbox as the car came down
> he would be dead. Our hobby is not worth dying or being crippled for,
> Pieter
> On 05/12/2009, at 12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Dec  5 14:20:59 2009
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:20:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] wood block stands
References: <637483.96385.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <12F6F46EA245407181732F7E20866184@atc0f226cd3237>

Norman, I use the blocks in conjunction with my hydraulic jack and multiple 
jack stands.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Norman Nock
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: Alex
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 2:04 PM
Subject: wood block stands


 You forget the car is in gear and you crank the engine , your car will be 
off those
wood blocks VERY quick ... now you have a big problem . Norman Nock

--- On Sat, 12/5/09, Alex <alexmm at roadrunner.com> wrote:


From: Alex <alexmm at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight Jacks
To: "Pieter and Linda" <pieters at pt.lu>, "Mark LaPierre" 
<lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Steve Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 5, 2009, 6:14 AM


Solid hardwood blocks are also useful to ensure safety. They can often be
obtained from boatyards. Mine are about 2-ft long and 10 inches square.
It's easy to place them at strategic points.

== Alex in Maine


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sat Dec  5 17:04:57 2009
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:04:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <006601ca75c8$8cdc5780$a6950680$@net>
Message-ID: <437551.55807.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I get an error message when trying to use the link to the article. Even when I
enter it manually it still doesn't work.

--- On Sat, 12/5/09, John Sims
<ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> Subject:
[Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date:
Saturday, December 5, 2009, 10:32 AM
> Take a look at the method that I use
>
that is on the Technical Page of my
> site.
> 
>
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One
> Method of Raising a Car onto Jack
>
Stands.pdf
> 
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> http://www.healey6.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
> Sent:
Saturday, December 05, 2009 7:59 AM
> To: Pieter and Linda; Mark LaPierre;
Steve Gerow; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight
Jacks
> 
> I also used wood 2x4s under the frame for additional
> safety
> 
>
On 12/5/09, Pieter and Linda <pieters at pt.lu>
> wrote:
> > You are so right
Mark. I have a friend who will be in
> a wheel chair
> > for life after not
using Axle stands. The car was on a
> flat concrete
> > surface, on a very
substantial trolley jack. The
> simple act of
> > torquing  up a nut was
enough for the car to slip
> off the jack and
> > fall, breaking his back and
a number of ribs. Had it
> not been for the
> > fact that his head was just
clear of the gearbox as
> the car came down
> > he would be dead. Our hobby is
not worth dying or
> being crippled for,
> > Pieter
> > On 05/12/2009, at
12:09 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
> >
> >> The more I read the more it is
apparent that some
> are actually not
> >> using jack stands along with there
> >> jacks.  Put the car on stands before you get
> underneath gents.   Its
>
>> such cheap, easy insurance. Many
> >> of these units are made in China and
I don't have
> to mention the
> >> value they put on lives when it comes
> >>
to turning a profit.
> _______________________________________________
>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as
fortee9er at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Dec  5 17:33:45 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 19:33:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <437551.55807.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <006601ca75c8$8cdc5780$a6950680$@net>
	<437551.55807.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <011201ca760b$c5630840$502918c0$@net>

Works fine for me. Alternatively you can just go to the site, access the
Technical Page and on that page go to Miscellaneous and you will find it
there.



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Jorge Garcia [mailto:fortee9er at yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 7:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; John Sims
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Harbor Freight Jacks

I get an error message when trying to use the link to the article. Even when
I enter it manually it still doesn't work.

--- On Sat, 12/5/09, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, December 5, 2009, 10:32 AM
> Take a look at the method that I use
> that is on the Technical Page of my
> site.
>
> http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One
> Method of Raising a Car onto Jack
> Stands.pdf

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 20:11:35 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 19:11:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  Tow hooks
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091205190854.020648f8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

>Hi,
>
>I have created a PDF and an AutoCAD 10 file for one of the front tow 
>bar attachement based on the drawing from 
>http://www.healeys.ca/towing_eyes.html
>It is accurate as far as I could read the drawing but the drawing 
>did not have any information for the curves and radii so I guessed there.
>
>Let me know if anyone has the drawing for the rear tow hook and I 
>can create that too and dimension it if needed.
>
>John
>'62 BT7
>
>At 08:38 PM 12/3/2009 -0800, you wrote:
>>Can someone make me a pattern tracing of front and rear tow hooks?  I
>>want to machine some for my car. Please contact off list.
>>59BT7
>>I Erbs

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 21:27:34 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 23:27:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Final alignment help needed
Message-ID: <00c601ca762c$6f704df0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I am doing a final alignment tweak on my Bt7.  First off I need to get the
tires aligned with each other.  Can some one give me a good rule of thumb
as to how much movement a tire will make with one full turn of the the cross
bar tie rod end.  I have the drivers tire where I want it and now I need to
bring the passenger side in a bit to match up with the drivers side.

One screw thread certainly doesn't cover much distance so I am thinking that 2
turns of one of the cross rod ends would move a tire inward or outward about
1/16th  of an inch.

Does any one have any sound figures on this  adjustment.

After I get the tires aligned with each other I know that I can just turn the
cross bar one way or the other to adjust the tires in or out.

Thanks,    Mark

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 21:39:29 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 23:39:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement
Message-ID: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I just recently reinstalled my rebuilt trafficator in my car and noticed that
it turns with the steering
wheel about an inch  then stops as normal.  This happens when turning the
wheel either way.  Is there an adjustment to get the trafficator to just stay
in one position at all times or is a small amount of movement like this,
normal.

Thanks,   Mark

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Dec  5 22:25:38 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 22:25:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>

Randy,

Well, The quality control group in China was trained by the finest
engineers that the Lucas folks could lend them at the time. I believe
they were from the wiring harness smoke containment group. :)

Interestingly, over the years of buying Harbor Freight stuff, I can
say that the quality has improved dramatically. We used to buy their
right angle gringers as "single use and toss" tools. Now they last at
least two, sometimes three uses. :)

Jody

On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:
> Boy, that endorsement makes me want to rush out and buy something from them!
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100M
> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:
>
>> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
>> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.
>
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Dec  6 04:34:14 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 06:34:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement
In-Reply-To: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4B1B96B6.7050108@earthlink.net>

Mark,

No adjustment per se.

Watch the stator tube at the front of the steering box as someone turns 
the steering wheel.  If the tube rotates, try tightening the nut that 
clamps the stator tube to the steering box.

If that's not it,  do you have an adjustable steering wheel?  The 
adjustable steering wheel has two stator tubes.  The trafficator 
(control head) mounts to the short stator tube with three screws.  At 
the other end of the short stator tube, the tube is upset to form three 
keys.  The long stator tube (in the steering column) fits inside the 
short stator tube and the keys slide in a slot in the long stator tube. 
  Any slop with the keys/slot will cause the head to rotate. The long 
stator tube is prone to cracking at the end of the slot, which will 
increase the slop.

The short stator tube has a plate that the control head mounts to and a 
larger plate that gets clamped to the steering wheel by three grub 
screws.  Does it take much effort to rotate the large diameter plate? 
That would increase the tendency for the trafficator to rotate.  Try 
lubricating the spring loaded joint (from the front side) and see if 
that helps.

How soon do you want to fix this?  If needed, I can bring a new long 
stator tube to Spring Tune-Up at the Manhensmiths in April.  Or it you 
want to do it sooner, I could head north some weekend.

Bob

Mark LaPierre wrote:
> I just recently reinstalled my rebuilt trafficator in my car and noticed that
> it turns with the steering
> wheel about an inch  then stops as normal.  This happens when turning the
> wheel either way.  Is there an adjustment to get the trafficator to just stay
> in one position at all times or is a small amount of movement like this,
> normal.
> 
> Thanks,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 05:32:06 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 20:32:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement
In-Reply-To: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912060432w2b0e0025t9d62c5ae5bf0b470@mail.gmail.com>

Mark -

At the front end of the steering box, where the wires come out of the
steering box, is how the trafficator is fixed in place.  There's a little
brass nut that clamps down on a little brass olive (like a washer) that
cinches down on the stator tube.  If that nut is loose or the olive is
missing, your trafficator will move.

You do need to fix this.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 12:39 PM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I just recently reinstalled my rebuilt trafficator in my car and noticed
> that
> it turns with the steering
> wheel about an inch  then stops as normal.  This happens when turning the
> wheel either way.  Is there an adjustment to get the trafficator to just
> stay
> in one position at all times or is a small amount of movement like this,
> normal.
>
> Thanks,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Dec  6 08:10:01 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 10:10:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement
References: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <B410F7F17ED24D2ABC1F74A2EF1FFF13@LIFEBOOK>

Mark,

The symptoms you describe almost certainly indicate that the machined slot 
in the top end (steering wheel end) of the long stator tube has widened, 
allowing excessive rotaotion of the entire switch head. As Bob described, 
the base of the slot is very crack prone, which makes the condition worse.
New stator tubes are available though they usually need a bit of careful 
file dressing of the milled slot to allow a good smoth fit of everything.

Rich Chrysler


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 11:39 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement


>I just recently reinstalled my rebuilt trafficator in my car and noticed 
>that
> it turns with the steering
> wheel about an inch  then stops as normal.  This happens when turning the
> wheel either way.  Is there an adjustment to get the trafficator to just 
> stay
> in one position at all times or is a small amount of movement like this,
> normal.
>
> Thanks,   Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec  6 10:10:02 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 17:10:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>,
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>,
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>,
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>,
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>,
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>,
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>,
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W2299357025B2AB1DA808A3A5910@phx.gbl>

This topic, while easy to treat humorously, has serious ramifications that
could easily turn into a political argument. I have determined never to buy a
Chinese made product if there is an alternative available. That is getting
harder and harder to do, but a few years ago when my wife asked what I wanted
for Christmas I said i wanted a bench vise. As a result I got a very heavy,
compact package under the tree that turned out to be a four inch (primitively
finished) Chinese made bench vise from Home Depot. Joining in the recent
holiday tradition of returning gifts the day after Christmas, I went back to
Home Depot and found a replacement for it proudly labeled "Made in England"
For less than $10 difference I now own a high quality tool that I am confident
was not made by a prisoner working for slave wages or having his body parted
out when he is no longer useful to the collective.
The communists said they would sell us the rope with which they will hang us.
I think our dependence on Chinese goods is the first step.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 22:25:38 -0700
> From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com
> To: Healey100M at gmail.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net; clyde.stutzman at att.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
>
> Randy,
>
> Well, The quality control group in China was trained by the finest
> engineers that the Lucas folks could lend them at the time. I believe
> they were from the wiring harness smoke containment group. :)
>
> Interestingly, over the years of buying Harbor Freight stuff, I can
> say that the quality has improved dramatically. We used to buy their
> right angle gringers as "single use and toss" tools. Now they last at
> least two, sometimes three uses. :)
>
> Jody
>
> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Boy, that endorsement makes me want to rush out and buy something from
them!
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > Randy Hicks
> > www.austinhealey100m.com
> > '56 100M
> > '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
> > '62 BN7 MkII
> > '65 BJ8
> > '53 MGTD
> > Healey100M at gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:
> >
> >> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
> >> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on
ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sun Dec  6 10:44:03 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 09:44:03 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2010 Austin-Healey Rendezvous
Message-ID: <6BE9629F-D7BF-43D2-9FA8-9258943919FC@comcast.net>

Healey Listers,
Fabulous Oregon scenery and hospitality await Austin-Healey owners  
attending

the 2010 Austin-Healey USA Rendezvous, June 28 through July 2 in  
Eugene Oregon.

Event headquarters is the Valley River Inn on the banks of the  
Willamette River.

Situated between the Cascades Mountains and the Oregon Coast Mountain  
Range,

Eugene is surrounded by great touring roads, exceptional vineyards and  
beautiful river

vistas.  Eugene is also the home of the University of Oregon and many  
cultural amentities.



The Austin-Healey Club of Oregon is hosting this Rendezvous.  Detailed  
plans are well

along in development as is evidenced on the Oregon Club website at

http://healey-oregon.org/Rendezvous.  The website presents the  
registration form and will

be updated frequently as planning proceeds.



Marks 3

'66 BJ8

From pennell at cox.net  Sun Dec  6 11:55:34 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 13:55:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator Movement
In-Reply-To: <00d101ca762e$193f9150$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <20091206135534.IQ78Y.67527.imail@eastrmwml32>

Mark,

I had this issue when restoring my BN7 some time ago.  To take care of the slop in the slot of the long tube I welded two new spots on the short tube in the same location as the orig.  Then with careful use of a Dremel and numerous trial and error fits I got a nice fit of one tube in the other and no rotation of the traf.

Hope this helps
Keith Pennell

---- Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> I just recently reinstalled my rebuilt trafficator in my car and noticed that
> it turns with the steering
> wheel about an inch  then stops as normal.  This happens when turning the
> wheel either way.  Is there an adjustment to get the trafficator to just stay
> in one position at all times or is a small amount of movement like this,
> normal.
> 
> Thanks,   Mark

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 13:00:47 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 15:00:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] E-bay top
Message-ID: <BAY124-W2D7CF57D874C31D7905F2D4910@phx.gbl>

Anyone know if this top is for later 100-6/3000 ?  Says Bugeye, but it's not
for a Sprite at all.

Item #200414114344


The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1
&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Dec  6 15:45:17 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 17:45:17 EST
Subject: [Healeys] E-bay top
Message-ID: <d30.5e763949.384d8dfd@aol.com>

Hi Shawn-
With just the one picture for review I would have to say that it looks more 
 like a set of top bows for a BT7.  
That is just my humble opinion as an original owner of a '60 BT7. I still  
have 2 sets of top bows on hand and could be talked into parting with one at 
a  reasonable price.  
 
Marion Brantley
Tampa Bay AHC-Delegate 
 
 
In a message dated 12/6/2009 3:53:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
stmiller96 at hotmail.com writes:

Anyone  know if this top is for later 100-6/3000 ?  Says Bugeye, but it's  
not
for a Sprite at all.

Item #200414114344


The  Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4  35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB  40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive  them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a  test
drive."




_________________________________________________________________
Windows  7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn  more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=
1
&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-
U
S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  mbran89793 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun Dec  6 18:05:17 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 17:05:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com><COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl><531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC><120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net><C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC><471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com><DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001401ca76d9$5789f440$9001a8c0@home>

My right angle grinder didn't even finish the first job before it was 
smoking like it was on fire.  Oh well.  For $19.99 what can I expect?

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com>
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <clyde.stutzman at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks


> Randy,
>
> Well, The quality control group in China was trained by the finest
> engineers that the Lucas folks could lend them at the time. I believe
> they were from the wiring harness smoke containment group. :)
>
> Interestingly, over the years of buying Harbor Freight stuff, I can
> say that the quality has improved dramatically. We used to buy their
> right angle gringers as "single use and toss" tools. Now they last at
> least two, sometimes three uses. :)
>
> Jody
>
> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Boy, that endorsement makes me want to rush out and buy something from 
>> them!
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> www.austinhealey100m.com
>> '56 100M
>> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
>> '62 BN7 MkII
>> '65 BJ8
>> '53 MGTD
>> Healey100M at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:
>>
>>> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
>>> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on 
> ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Dec  6 18:58:29 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 20:58:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <001401ca76d9$5789f440$9001a8c0@home>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com><COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl><531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC><120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net><C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC><471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com><DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
	<001401ca76d9$5789f440$9001a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <016d01ca76e0$c6454220$52cfc660$@net>

And, Friday I just got a power tool stand (29.99) that was missing the four
lower braces making it useless. Will have an interesting telephone call with
them Monday morning.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Healey Bruce
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 8:05 PM
To: Jody Kerr; Randy Hicks
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; clyde.stutzman at att.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks

My right angle grinder didn't even finish the first job before it was
smoking like it was on fire.  Oh well.  For $19.99 what can I expect?

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com>
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <clyde.stutzman at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks


> Randy,
>
> Well, The quality control group in China was trained by the finest
> engineers that the Lucas folks could lend them at the time. I believe
> they were from the wiring harness smoke containment group. :)
>
> Interestingly, over the years of buying Harbor Freight stuff, I can
> say that the quality has improved dramatically. We used to buy their
> right angle gringers as "single use and toss" tools. Now they last at
> least two, sometimes three uses. :)
>
> Jody
>
> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Boy, that endorsement makes me want to rush out and buy something from
>> them!
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> www.austinhealey100m.com
>> '56 100M
>> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
>> '62 BN7 MkII
>> '65 BJ8
>> '53 MGTD
>> Healey100M at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Jody Kerr wrote:
>>
>>> I find at HF that if one is no good, the whole lot are, and you need
>>> to wait a few months until they get a fresh batch in from China.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on
> ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 19:27:35 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:27:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <001401ca76d9$5789f440$9001a8c0@home>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
	<001401ca76d9$5789f440$9001a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912061827h3f68e42asd633272432827c75@mail.gmail.com>

The grinder I have in California bought from HF 8 years ago is still going
strong.  It makes a real racket, but it grinds like there's no tomorrow!
Made by the "Chicago Tool Company"... uh huh, right....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 9:05 AM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>wrote:

> My right angle grinder didn't even finish the first job before it was
> smoking like it was on fire.  Oh well.  For $19.99 what can I expect?
>
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 23:03:00 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 14:03:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912062053n364329c4x40aa85e5ad9103d7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY144-W2299357025B2AB1DA808A3A5910@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0912062053n364329c4x40aa85e5ad9103d7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912062203s744da7e9q62a1e666e68974ad@mail.gmail.com>

I'm the only guy on the list living in the proximity of China so...

I guess you don't want the Chinese to buy our Johnson & Johnson and Dow
Chemical cleaning products or Proctor and Gamble Toothpaste or washing
powder, they buy ALOT of this stuff.  The Chinese also they buy alot of
Boeing Airplanes, Caterpillar Equipment and.... shock/horror ... GM's most
profitable market in the world is their Buick division selling cars in
China.  Buicks are all over China - it's a preferred car brand there, viewed
as high quality for a good price.  My company car in China is a Buick.

For my business I also buy a huge amount of Herman Miller chairs, Interface
carpet and CISCO & Polycom phone systems and networking equipment.  All made
in the US. Much of what my company buys is installed in China.

I honestly can't remember the last time I bought a hydraulic jack made in
the USA, possibly 30 years ago?  I think before China they were made in
Taiwan, and before that Mexico.

Having grown up in the region, and my father having fought the communists
from 1950 to 1975, all I can say is if you asked him what he thinks about
China today, he'd be proud to say that this is what he was fighting for.
Everyone seems to forget that prior to 1975, China was a hermit kingdom with
alot of nukes (just like N. Korea)... Mao alone was responsible for almost
50 million deaths of his own citizens.

Today's China is a country in serious transition, clearly on the road to
democratic reform sometime in the next few decades.  Having done alot of
business there in many respects China's market is far more open and
capitalist than it is in the US.  One thing to think about China's corporate
tax is 25%, the US? ....  40%.  In fact the US has the second highest
corporate tax rate in the world.  The Chinese industrial transition has its
ugly warts, no doubt, but so did the US transition from an agrarian society
to an industrial society at the turn of the 20th century.

But hey, taxing companies is one sure way to kill jobs, well that and having
12 million illegals in our country.  Let's tax those evil rich companies to
pay for the bloated budgets in Washington!!! (hint: the rest of the world
has figured out that high corporate taxes are basically the same thing as an
employment tax).  How about that evil socialist paradise France?  Corporate
tax rate = 33%.

So before repeating some convenient populist falsehoods that the media and
politicians spew from their soapboxes (for their own political gain), you
have to think of the big picture.  The problem in the US isn't that it
"doesn't make anything," the problem is the government does nothing to
encourage business to hire people and be more competitive.

Alan

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec  6 12:30:51 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 11:30:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <011201ca760b$c5630840$502918c0$@net>
References: <006601ca75c8$8cdc5780$a6950680$@net>
	<437551.55807.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<011201ca760b$c5630840$502918c0$@net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091206112820.02049590@pop.att.yahoo.com>

The link did not work for me either. I probably worked for you 
because it is cached on your system.

Also, the link you sent was not complete. The complete link is:

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One%20Method%20of%20Raising%20a%20Car%20onto%20Jack%20Stands.pdf

At 07:33 PM 12/5/2009 -0500, John Sims wrote:
>Works fine for me....
>there.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
> > From: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> > Take a look at the method that I use
> > that is on the Technical Page of my
> > site.
> >
> > http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One
> > Method of Raising a Car onto Jack
> > Stands.pdf
>_______________________________________________

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 00:38:37 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 07:38:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Fright
Message-ID: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>

Listmates,
 I always try to buy USA. However, a couple of years ago I needed a pitman arm
puller. Harbor Fright had one for about $6.95. It was dirt cheap and I knew it
was crap, but I figured I would, maybe, only use it once or twice over the
next 20 years after I used it this one time. I mean, why would I spend 3 or 4
times that much for an American made puller if I was only going to use it once
or twice over the next 20 years?  So, I bought it, took it home, and tried to
pull the pitman arm off of my Healey steering box. You guessed it. One of the
arms of the puller snapped off immediately.
Remember this one important thing. If you buy that cheap Chineese shit from
Harbor Fright, and if you don't use it within 30 days after your purchase and
discover it is crap, they will not give you a refund.
And, yes I do know how to spell freight.
  Richard Mayor

_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1
&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 02:32:17 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 17:32:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Fright
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912070132l582d39fby777de60d49ecedcd@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe you can use that cheap chinese sh*t pitman arm puller to fix the cheap
chinese sh*t airliner you're flying on your next trip:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACAC_ARJ21

Tickets are cheap cheap cheap!
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 3:38 PM, richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Listmates,
>  I always try to buy USA. However, a couple of years ago I needed a pitman
> arm
> puller. Harbor Fright had one for about $6.95. It was dirt cheap and I knew
> it
> was crap, but I figured I would, maybe, only use it once or twice over the
> next 20 years after I used it this one time. I mean, why would I spend 3 or
> 4
> times that much for an American made puller if I was only going to use it
> once
> or twice over the next 20 years?  So, I bought it, took it home, and tried
> to
> pull the pitman arm off of my Healey steering box. You guessed it. One of
> the
> arms of the puller snapped off immediately.
> Remember this one important thing. If you buy that cheap Chineese shit from
> Harbor Fright, and if you don't use it within 30 days after your purchase
> and
> discover it is crap, they will not give you a refund.
> And, yes I do know how to spell freight.
>  Richard Mayor

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec  7 04:02:04 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 12:02:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Fright
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B1CE0AC.8010209@chello.nl>

Made in China is not a garantee that it is of bad quality, neither is 
made in the UK, USA or Germany a garantee that it is of good quality. 
Some German tools are absolute crap, we know what happened to the 
British car industry because of their quality and US products are hardly 
known accross the pond apart from air planes.
It all comes down to what specifications an item is made to and we also 
have to consider that DIN, SAE, ISO, EU etc. standards should only be 
regarded as minimum requirements. Most seriously produced items well 
exceed these standards.
In general:
Expensive means that the chance of the item being of at least of 
reasonable quality is higher than of cheap items, but some cheap items 
are as good or better than expensive items. This is especially so with 
hand tools.
Snap-on, Facom, Belzer, Hazet are all good quality and expensive. But 
some of the cheap Chinese tools are just as good but the brands change 
so fast you cannot keep track of them. What is different is often the 
finish of the product.
Years ago (ca. 1985) I did a consumer test on handtools: an expensive 
set of socket spanners from Stahlwille (ca. $400) was of less quality 
than the same cheap Chinese made set from the HEMA (say the Dutch 
equivalent of Sears) at around $40. OK the chrome plating on the Chinese 
set was crap, but is was stronger, more wear resistant (harder) and more 
accurate on sizes (which is very important).
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Mon Dec  7 06:50:48 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:50:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Fright
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W11CAA20A1D4D09EDDF3675C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W6F92C77D502E7AF9107C4B8900@phx.gbl>

Hardly worth the wearand tear; fuel; your time; and the aggravation to make
the trip to return it.



At one of chains, Canadian Tire, they lend out certain tools for free ... sort
of.  They give you an unused tool, you pay for it and return it within some
time period for a full refund.  If it works well, I usually end up keeping it.
I haven't done this for awhile, so I'm not 100% sure that they still promote
this.


> Harbor Fright had one for about $6.95.

> Remember this one important thing. If you buy that cheap Chineese shit from
> Harbor Fright, and if you don't use it within 30 days after your purchase
and
> discover it is crap, they will not give you a refund.
> Richard Mayor

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Dec  7 07:54:11 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 09:54:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Harbor Freight Jacks
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20091206112820.02049590@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <006601ca75c8$8cdc5780$a6950680$@net>
	<437551.55807.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<011201ca760b$c5630840$502918c0$@net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091206112820.02049590@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <019401ca774d$23a62a80$6af27f80$@net>

OK I have loaded a TinyURL button on both browsers (I use Firefox AND IE -
I also use Google Chrome but I have not figured out how to put a button on
it.) Anyway, I promise to use TinyURL in the future so that we don't have
excessive email exchanges trying to figure out these long links.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 2:31 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: 'Jorge Garcia'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Harbor Freight Jacks

The link did not work for me either. I probably worked for you
because it is cached on your system.

Also, the link you sent was not complete. The complete link is:

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/One%20Method%20of%20Raising%20a%20Car%20ont
o%20Jack%20Stands.pdf

At 07:33 PM 12/5/2009 -0500, John Sims wrote:
>Works fine for me....
>there.

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Mon Dec  7 08:23:51 2009
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:23:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Try this web site. He makes them and they are very good. He has three
Healeys and has done restoration on over 60 Healeys including the paint
and body on two of mine. He has lots of stainless re=pro parts also.


Jim Frakes
http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:54 AM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000

looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold
air
box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any
ideas
on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
Thanks

--
I Erbs
Portland, OR
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jimf at frakes-eng.com

http://www.team.net/archive


CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the
individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information
that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the
intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have
received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number
listed above or by return e-mail.

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 09:18:05 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 11:18:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <DA3F6B56-C44D-43CD-B6BA-4936CE3DFF6B@gmail.com>

Jim, he is "Currently Out of Stock" on everything on the web site.

Is he still "in the business"?

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com







On Dec 7, 2009, at 10:23 AM, Frakes, Jim wrote:

> Try this web site. He makes them and they are very good. He has three
> Healeys and has done restoration on over 60 Healeys including the paint
> and body on two of mine. He has lots of stainless re=pro parts also.
>
>
> Jim Frakes
> http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:54 AM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
>
> looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold
> air
> box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any
> ideas
> on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
> Thanks
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jimf at frakes-eng.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of
the
> individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain
information
> that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this message is not
the
> intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to
the
> intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
> distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have
> received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number
> listed above or by return e-mail.
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Dec  7 09:27:10 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 08:27:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Harbor_Freight_Pittman_puller_-_was_HF_j?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?acks?=
Message-ID: <20091207162710.32093.qmail@hoster902.com>

I bought the same puller as Richard did a few years back - it's worked fine on at least 3 Healey pittmans (pittmen?) since then. As I recall we sprayed them all with Sili-Kroil first. My BN6 buddy Peter Roses ground a total of about 1/4" off the forks to make it grip the ears on the Healey pittman arm better.

I also broke one of their $3 pickle forks - the one with the 3 interchangeable sizes. Bought a one-piece one there for a few bucks after that which has worked fine several times.

Of course what we're all doing here is proving HF's quality to be spotty over time. But it's also not 100% bad.

With all respect to those who disagree - I agree with Alan re China. I would also say that if my only other choice were to buy a $300 racing jack made here or in Britain - no sale. I have a steel k-mart floor jack that's heavy as hell but works fine, which cost probably $39 20 years ago. Nor would I buy a $70 pittman puller from Snap-On. The sale was made because the price is so inexpensive. There's a market there where none existed before. We can afford to buy a specialized tool like a pittman puller to use once and then loan out to our friends.

FWIW - I also bought one of the $20 angle grinders and will report back if it craps out.


-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 09:41:38 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:41:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912070841l31e97dfdi2f2506b38fde56c5@mail.gmail.com>

all parts are currently our of stock!  Plus cold air boxes are for 4 cyl
cars.
Nice looking stuff but its all vapor ware.
Thanks

On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 7:23 AM, Frakes, Jim <jimf at frakes-eng.com> wrote:

> Try this web site. He makes them and they are very good. He has three
> Healeys and has done restoration on over 60 Healeys including the paint
> and body on two of mine. He has lots of stainless re=pro parts also.
>
>
> Jim Frakes
> http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:54 AM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
>
> looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold
> air
> box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any
> ideas
> on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
> Thanks
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jimf at frakes-eng.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of
> the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain
> information that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this
> message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible
> to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.
>  If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at
> the number listed above or by return e-mail.
>
>
>


-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Dec  7 09:57:36 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 11:57:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>

I went onto the site and each items is noted currently out of stock.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frakes, Jim
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 10:24 AM
To: I Erbs; healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] cold air box 3000

Try this web site. He makes them and they are very good. He has three
Healeys and has done restoration on over 60 Healeys including the paint
and body on two of mine. He has lots of stainless re=pro parts also.


Jim Frakes
http://www.wickerizedhealey.com/manparts.htm


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:54 AM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000

looking for info on making a le mans or Le Mans or Lemans :) type cold
air
box for my MKI 3000. If you have done this please contact me. Or any
ideas
on how to improve airflow to the 1 /34" carbs.
Thanks

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 10:09:11 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 09:09:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] need non-adjust streering wheel
Message-ID: <173126440912070909n6f5123d2v58d5c739f30ee1c@mail.gmail.com>

The steering wheel on my BT7 is very cracked and I would like to replace
it. If you have a spare that is not too precious to you please send photos
and price.off list to me eyera3 at gmail.com
Thanks

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Mon Dec  7 10:53:15 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 17:53:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>,
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W48CCF11728CDC12A9CCA31B8900@phx.gbl>

I went for a look also.  Perhaps he makes to order.  I did note that he has
contact info, if anyone is interested enough.

>From the page:
"
If you are interested in buying anything, call 260-347-5304 or email
askfrank at wickerizedhealey.com.
"

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

> each item is noted currently out of stock.

From medlabinc at msn.com  Mon Dec  7 11:26:08 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:26:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  DR2 DR3A Wiper Motors
Message-ID: <COL109-DS13D69AE7905817563D119CA2900@phx.gbl>

What a resource.  Thank you Alan !

Dick Matson / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Seigrist<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: David Hall<mailto:dthall at btinternet.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] DR2 DR3A Wiper Motors


David -

Anything you've ever wanted to know about the working principles of the DR2
Wiper motor are on pages 14 - 25 here:

http://www.healey6.com/Lucas%20Course/Lucas%20technical%20correspondence%20co
urse%20-%20session%208.pdf<http://www.healey6.com/Lucas%20Course/Lucas%20tech
nical%20correspondence%20course%20-%20session%208.pdf>

In addition, a sample wiring circuit is on page 16 here (with wire color):

http://www.healey6.com/Lucas%20Course/Lucas%20technical%20correspondence%20co
urse%20-%20session%206.pdf<http://www.healey6.com/Lucas%20Course/Lucas%20tech
nical%20correspondence%20course%20-%20session%206.pdf>

If you are looking for the wiring diagram for your specific Healey, you
should refer to your shop manual.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 1:11 AM, David Hall
<dthall at btinternet.com<mailto:dthall at btinternet.com>> wrote:

> Would anybody who has wiring diagrams for both wiper motors be kind enough
> to
> forward a copy of the drawing or a schematic to me.
> Regards David Hall
_______________________________________________

From acmiller at mhcable.com  Mon Dec  7 11:57:44 2009
From: acmiller at mhcable.com (Allen C Miller Jr)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:57:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com><BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
Message-ID: <8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045>

i would recommend exploring racing intake tubes vs cold air box if the 
objective is to improve air flow into the manifolds. cold air box on the 
100M was to supply COLD air, not to serve as a ram air induction device. in 
fact, the cold air box as conformed can cause slight vortex disturbances 
interfering air supply to the rear intake.

i bought a period cold air box on EBAY a few years back, and in the course 
of its life the back end had been hacksawed off. i asked around and was 
advised by an old salt that racers used to do this to ensure that airflow to 
the front and rear manifolds was even, and that the intended purpose of just 
supplying good cold air was fulfilled. 

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 12:36:24 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 11:36:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W48CCF11728CDC12A9CCA31B8900@phx.gbl>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com> 
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
	<BAY112-W48CCF11728CDC12A9CCA31B8900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <173126440912071136p3287c70ejec4edbc7c00db5fc@mail.gmail.com>

I emailed him to see what's up will let you all know when I do, or if we
make something on our own that worsk. Interesting that this has not been
done befoe fo rhe 6 cyl cars..
If so I have not found it yet

On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 9:53 AM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> I went for a look also.  Perhaps he makes to order.  I did note that he has
> contact info, if anyone is interested enough.
>
> >From the page:
> "
> If you are interested in buying anything, call 260-347-5304 or email
> askfrank at wickerizedhealey.com.
> "
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>
> > each item is noted currently out of stock.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Mon Dec  7 13:05:09 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 12:05:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together ?
Message-ID: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>

Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:

I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag.  The
pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a solid
state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.

Jerry

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Mon Dec  7 13:25:13 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 21:25:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic Balancer
Message-ID: <F131FCB300A3492B9AA25DF139E642DD@tm>

This was posted on Volvo 1800 list, I think it's worth a reading if you do
not know what harmonic balancers are for (just like I did not know..)

Tadek



Re: Harmonic Balancer
Posted by: "zemog1ja" zemog1ja at yahoo.com   zemog1ja
Sun Dec 6, 2009 7:07 am (PST)



Jim, I've been reading the responses to the the harmonic balancer post
and even though I feel that it's up to each individual owner to do
whatever to their engines, perhaps a better explanation about the
mechanics of a vibration damper will help all of us to decide whether
to install one or not. When the crankshaft throw receives the force
of the piston on the power stroke, the crankshaft twists slightly. This
twisting may be so minute that is not measurable. It may only strain
the crankshaft, causing stress in the metal without exterior movement.
But the heavy crankshaft resists the strain, and after the initial push
from the piston and connecting rod, pushes back. In effect, the piston
tries to bend the crankshaft, and the crankshaft tries to straighten
itself. When the crankshaft pushes back, it over-reacts and then tries
to straighten itself in the other direction. These oscillations take
place for several cycles and finally die out, similar to a tuning fork.
Everytime there is a firing impulse in the engine, the crankshaft gets a
push and starts vibrating again. At certain speeds, the pushes received
by the crankshaft occur simultaneously with the efforts of the
crankshaft to straighten itself. This increases the magnitude of the
osciallations. At certain speeds the vibration can become so great that
the shaft will break. This vibration is called torsional vibration. It
can cause heavy wear on timing chains. The sprocket at the fron of the
crankshaft constantly osciallates against the chain. Torsional
vibration rarely causes any problems at the flywheel end of the engine
because the heavy flywheel dampens the oscillations. The harmonic
balancer, located at the front pulley on the crankshaft, is made of an
outer heavy ring, a rubber ring, and an inner hub. When the crankshaft
oscillates, the balancer oscillates with it. When it gets to the end of
the oscillation, the outer ring keeps going and twists the rubber
slightly. The outer ring stretches the rubber and dampens the torsional
vibration in the crankshaft. Since each engine will give out different
oscillations then the damper must be tuned to the crankshaft. Whether
the harmonic balancers are made of rubber rings or frictional material
and springs these willl wear out and must be replaced. Sorry about
the long winded explanation but it was the only way to fully explain the
function and purpose of the harmonic balancer.

Bill63S

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Mon Dec  7 13:25:14 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 21:25:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] H6/H4 choke levers
Message-ID: <14D1DB509FB74711A5F1E7DEC0900981@tm>

This might be a stupid question, but why are they not identical? One is S
shape and the other is straight..

From williamsantiks at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 13:49:10 2009
From: williamsantiks at hotmail.com (William Berg)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 12:49:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] david leong please contact me
Message-ID: <BAY110-W181933CAF2A0A617A52872CD900@phx.gbl>

Hello David, It's William Berg who purchased your BN1 Healey 8 years ago.
Could you please conatx me off the list. I have a Porsche question for you.
707 332 0890

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 14:16:49 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:16:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together  ?
In-Reply-To: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <173126440912071316l7d49a2ecle55c252e1fa32222@mail.gmail.com>

IMHO, I would fill the cyl with marvel or or pentrating oil as well as the
crankcase. Spin the engine
 by hand and put decicant to absorb moisture and seal in a plastic bag.




On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>wrote:

> Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:
>
> I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag.
>  The
> pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
> taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
> together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a
> solid
> state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
> The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.
>
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Mon Dec  7 14:29:15 2009
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 16:29:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together  ?
In-Reply-To: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <C742DDDB.3F67%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Jerry (et. al) -- will be very interested in replies to your question. I
have a 66 BJ8 engine that was dismantled and is now in boxes. Head and block
have light rust from moisture as does the crank. Pistons, rods, etc. are in
box that seems to have been spared water damage.
Tom


On 12/7/09 3:05 PM, "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:

> Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:
> 
> I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag.  The
> pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
> taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
> together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a solid
> state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
> The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.
> 
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tjmorrio at colby.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Mon Dec  7 14:47:31 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 22:47:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] H6/H4 choke levers
In-Reply-To: <173126440912071317p5bdf4ffege30619d0fea8ec44@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6A27911D04F24E8FA1A1DC6C93674C23@tm>

Well, that much I know, but why aren't they identical??..

________________________________________
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 10:17 PM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Subject: Re: [Healeys] H6/H4 choke levers

front and back carbs
On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz
<tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:
This might be a stupid question, but why are they not identical? One is S
shape and the other is straight..
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 15:04:30 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 22:04:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
Message-ID: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>

Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that I was
getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada, nothing. I
pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units. Both very
quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does anyone
have a source for these?
Richard

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Mon Dec  7 15:10:30 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 23:10:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Acorn coil nut and coil bracket needed
Message-ID: <1408C075208F41A685EEAA18DB2E21AB@tm>

Hello ,

Would any one have a red acorn nut for the sport's coil and a bracket for
it? I have located a coil, but the nut and bracket is missing..

Please contact me off-list if you have it.

Best Regards,


Tadek

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Mon Dec  7 15:13:04 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 23:13:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] rubber bushes for overflow tubes for 100M cold air box
	needed
Message-ID: <2FFBA12D1A5D40F28C93271ADB8F9E32@tm>

Hello,

I am looking for the rubber bushes for overflow tubes for 100M cold air box.
If anyone has an extra set and is willing to part with it, please let me
know off list,

Best, Tadek

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Dec  7 15:15:51 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 15:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together  ?
In-Reply-To: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <2820AB4434C6429BBFEAC2B0B8EF2888@oscar>

Leave it together. Bag and silica moisture sacs inside bag. Just protect
from direct water source. Condensation happens..
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 1:05 PM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together ?

Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:

I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag.  The
pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a
solid
state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.

Jerry
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec  7 15:34:07 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 23:34:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together  ?
In-Reply-To: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <4B1D82DF.9070102@chello.nl>

Leave it in one piece but renew the oil. Pour some oil into the spark 
plug holes on top of the pistons. Also spray some oil (e.g WD40 into the 
carbs and exhaust manifold to cover the valves in oil. Turn the engine 
several times than fill right up completely with the cheapest oil you 
can get or use preservative oil, it does not make that much difference. 
Reinstall the plugs.
Remove the waterpump and dismantle to preserve the seal or spray with 
WD40. Remove the clutch cover and pressure plate as they will rust to 
the flywheel. Spray some preservative wax on the clutch cover and 
flywheel and on the crankshaft around the seals.
Spray some oil into the distributor to preserve the weights and springs.
Cover al holes, inlet, exhaust, water pump, water ways etc.
Just cover it but do not store in a plastic bag, it needs to breathe to 
prevent condensation.
This way it will still be usable after years and years of storage and 
you would not have lost some bits and pieces which will inevitably 
happen when you take the lump apart.
Do not forget to remove the oil from the engine before you try starting 
it up after storage,  renew the old oil and fill up to the max. mark. If 
you don't you will wreck the engine.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:
>
> I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag.  The
> pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
> taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
> together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a solid
> state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
> The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.
>
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Dec  7 16:32:04 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 18:32:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B1D9074.7080606@earthlink.net>

http://www.advanceddistributors.com/services07.htm

richard mayor wrote:
> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that I was
> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada, nothing. I
> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units. Both very
> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does anyone
> have a source for these?
> Richard
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
> d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 16:45:26 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 23:45:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>

Richard
Advanced Distributors - www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm - will rebuild
your vacuum advance for you. Apparently (no personal experience yet) they do a
great job at rebuilding distributors and tailoring them to your needs and
their charges are reasonable.
Rick Swain'59 BN4

> Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
>
> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that I was
> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada, nothing.
I
> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units. Both very
> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does anyone
> have a source for these?
> Richard


_________________________________________________________________
Ready. Set. Get a great deal on Windows 7. See fantastic deals on Windows 7
now
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691818

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  7 17:46:45 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 16:46:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EB935D7E-E8BE-4145-9B5B-86E7C9DB9893@sbcglobal.net>

Richard, we have the vacuum unit available rebuilt.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 7, 2009, at 2:04 PM, richard mayor wrote:

> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that  
> I was
> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada,  
> nothing. I
> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units.  
> Both very
> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does  
> anyone
> have a source for these?
> Richard
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/ 
> hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
> d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Mon Dec  7 18:05:41 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 20:05:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together   ?
Message-ID: <8CC45B9B2020A74-8C90-9732@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com>

An excellent rust inhibitor for any machined surfaces on parts and metals in
general for storage is LPS 3 made by LPS products.  It has been used in the
aircraft maintenance industry for years.  It lasts for a very long time.  Goes
on thin and and thickens as the solvent evaporates. LPS 3 can be Googled to
find a source.  Ace hardware has it on line for $8.99 USD, don't know how much
the shipping is.   I like the 11 oz. spray can for convenience. Keeping the
engine in one piece is probably the best thing to do so things do not get lost
and out of order.  When dismantling an engine a lot of the parts are mated to
certain positions and not a good idea to mix them up due to wear patterns.


Larry Wendland
'67 BJ8

From yeastd at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  7 18:10:19 2009
From: yeastd at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Yeast)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 17:10:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together   ?
In-Reply-To: <4B1D82DF.9070102@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I once heard but have never confirmed that WD-40 is a partially water based
product and not the best product for rust prevention over time. Anyone know
the true story?

Dennis Yeast
email: yeastd at sbcglobal.net

--- On Mon, 12/7/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:


From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together ?
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 10:34 PM


Leave it in one piece but renew the oil. Pour some oil into the spark plug
holes on top of the pistons. Also spray some oil (e.g WD40 into the carbs and
exhaust manifold to cover the valves in oil. Turn the engine several times
than fill right up completely with the cheapest oil you can get or use
preservative oil, it does not make that much difference. Reinstall the plugs.
Remove the waterpump and dismantle to preserve the seal or spray with WD40.
Remove the clutch cover and pressure plate as they will rust to the flywheel.
Spray some preservative wax on the clutch cover and flywheel and on the
crankshaft around the seals.
Spray some oil into the distributor to preserve the weights and springs.
Cover al holes, inlet, exhaust, water pump, water ways etc.
Just cover it but do not store in a plastic bag, it needs to breathe to
prevent condensation.
This way it will still be usable after years and years of storage and you
would not have lost some bits and pieces which will inevitably happen when you
take the lump apart.
Do not forget to remove the oil from the engine before you try starting it up
after storage,  renew the old oil and fill up to the max. mark. If you don't
you will wreck the engine.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jerry Costanzo schreef:
> Not to break up the conversation about Chinese parts but:
>
> I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a plastic bag. 
The
> pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from whenever this was
> taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion, is it better to let it sit
> together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust puts it into a
solid
> state?    I have no problems with storage room.  I can store it either way.
> The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture control in there.
>
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as yeastd at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From sales at justbrits.com  Mon Dec  7 18:39:09 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 19:39:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
	<SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B1DAE3D.1020207@justbrits.com>

<< Apparently (no personal experience yet) they do a great job at
rebuilding distributors and tailoring them to your needs and their
charges are reasonable. >>

I do have experience Rick, and Jeff's work IS top-
notch !!!!  He IS one of my suppliers<G> !

Recommend HIGHLY !!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Mon Dec  7 19:02:38 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 21:02:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
	<SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E52B7029-7F0F-497B-967F-13A40444F1EB@cgocable.ca>

Le 09-12-07 ` 18:45, Rick Swain a icrit :

> Richard
> Advanced Distributors - www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm -
> will rebuild
> your vacuum advance for you. I did business with them and i can
> assure you that  they do a
> great job at rebuilding distributors and tailoring them to your
> needs and
> their charges are reasonable.
>
Gilbert

  BT7-Bn7 BN4
>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
>>
>> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that
>> I was
>> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada,
>> nothing.
> I
>> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units.
>> Both very
>> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does
>> anyone
>> have a source for these?
>> Richard
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Ready. Set. Get a great deal on Windows 7. See fantastic deals on
> Windows 7
> now
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691818
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as comkanuk at cgocable.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Dec  7 19:17:45 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 02:17:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?tools?=
Message-ID: <20091208021745.24103.qmail@server278.com>

i usually go to Auto-Zone or Checkers if i need a specialty tool and get a loaner(you buy it and get your money back if it comes back in good condition).  unfortunately, a lot of the time they do not have tools for our british cars or even old american cars.   hjim

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Dec  7 19:52:26 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 18:52:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together  ?
In-Reply-To: <A52D3DFA8DA9420B8814B89E1AD237C2@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <57414.38155.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My opinion:  For long term storage in a barn with no mositure control I would
break the engine down, oil/protect all parts and store separately.  Puting oil
in all the holes etc is only a stop gap deal.   There are storage oils/greases
available.  WD40 is not for storage.   Plus you will know what condition the
moror is in if you wish to sell it.  Any buyer wil break it down anyway.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Mon, 12/7/09, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:

> From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine,  break it down or leave it together ?
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 12:05 PM
> Not to break up the conversation
> about Chinese parts but:
>
> I have an extra engine, which is now stored in a barn in a
> plastic bag.  The
> pistons, head, cam, crank and rods are all in place from
> whenever this was
> taken out of a BJ7 or 8.   In your opinion,
> is it better to let it sit
> together or take it apart and clean it up before the rust
> puts it into a solid
> state?    I have no problems with storage
> room.  I can store it either way.
> The barn does not leak but  there is no moisture
> control in there.
>
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 19:56:18 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 18:56:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com><BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
	<8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045>
Message-ID: <F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>

The objective is to look cool

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 7, 2009, at 10:57 AM, "Allen C Miller Jr"  
<acmiller at mhcable.com> wrote:

> i would recommend exploring racing intake tubes vs cold air box if  
> the objective is to improve air flow into the manifolds. cold air  
> box on the 100M was to supply COLD air, not to serve as a ram air  
> induction device. in fact, the cold air box as conformed can cause  
> slight vortex disturbances interfering air supply to the rear intake.
>
> i bought a period cold air box on EBAY a few years back, and in the  
> course of its life the back end had been hacksawed off. i asked  
> around and was advised by an old salt that racers used to do this to  
> ensure that airflow to the front and rear manifolds was even, and  
> that the intended purpose of just supplying good cold air was  
> fulfilled. _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Dec  7 20:27:04 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 22:27:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
References: <8CC45B9B2020A74-8C90-9732@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP99FDF1A9A2FDDD4B12BAF9C38F0@phx.gbl>

I will second the recommendation on the LPS3.  I used to spray the chrome 
mags on my pickup just before winter and it would last right through the 
cruddiest southern Ontario weather - salt and all.  In the spring I would 
clean it off with a varsol-soaked paper towel and the wheels would be like 
new.  In addition to being available in a spray bottle, it can be purchased 
in an aerosol can, but the former is more economical.  In s. Ontario it is 
available at most industrial suppliers - I got mine at KBC tools.

Cheers,

Mirek


> you wrote: An excellent rust inhibitor for any machined surfaces on parts 
> and metals in
> general for storage is LPS 3 made by LPS products. 

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 20:36:55 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 19:36:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Made in China
Message-ID: <COL121-W4070A42F24A939D3674BA3A48F0@phx.gbl>

After seeing this I'm not sure I want to fly on a plane made in China.

There's an explanation/excuse along with the pictures:

http://wwweng.uwyo.edu/classes/fa2009/ce4630/china_apartment_tilt.pdf



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  7 20:55:06 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 19:55:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <E52B7029-7F0F-497B-967F-13A40444F1EB@cgocable.ca>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>,
	<SNT124-W2156DFAEB4A132ABDB8F5EB5900@phx.gbl>,
	<E52B7029-7F0F-497B-967F-13A40444F1EB@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <COL121-W355FD29A7E3CEC72DFA2DA48F0@phx.gbl>

I used them and was more than pleased. Jeff is easy to talk to and he did a
lot of extra stuff. I'd suggest sending the whole unit for a complete rebuild.
It wasn't that expensive. You'd be surprised at what he will find.
Rich Kahn

> From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca
> To: rjswain at hotmail.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 21:02:38 -0500
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
>
> Le 09-12-07 ` 18:45, Rick Swain a icrit :
>
> > Richard
> > Advanced Distributors - www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm -
> > will rebuild
> > your vacuum advance for you. I did business with them and i can
> > assure you that  they do a
> > great job at rebuilding distributors and tailoring them to your
> > needs and
> > their charges are reasonable.
> >
> Gilbert
>
>   BT7-Bn7 BN4
> >
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
> >>
> >> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that
> >> I was
> >> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada,
> >> nothing.
> > I
> >> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units.
> >> Both very
> >> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does
> >> anyone
> >> have a source for these?
> >> Richard
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Ready. Set. Get a great deal on Windows 7. See fantastic deals on
> > Windows 7
> > now
> > http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691818
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as comkanuk at cgocable.ca
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Dec  7 23:00:49 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 06:00:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912062203s744da7e9q62a1e666e68974ad@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>,
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>,
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>,
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>,
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>,
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>,
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>,
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BAY144-W2299357025B2AB1DA808A3A5910@phx.gbl>,
	<ff59076c0912062053n364329c4x40aa85e5ad9103d7@mail.gmail.com>,
	<ff59076c0912062203s744da7e9q62a1e666e68974ad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W28D70717859F05D777848EA58F0@phx.gbl>

Alan,
I apologize for starting this and will try to explain my feelings a little
more coherently.
You have made some great arguments and of course I am not against trade. I
like it better when the balance of trade is a little closer to par, but that
is our problem, not the Chinese. High quality products are to be preferred
wherever they come from and the asian nations have demonstrated that they can
approach perfection on a QC basis.
China has indeed come a long way since the end of the cold war and their
current culture is much preferable to the Mao years. I feel we need to
continue to encourage that trend while realizing that by western standards
they still have a way to go.
I guess what bothers me is the way in which we have allowed our economy to
become so dependent on Chinese credit. And even in the throws of our recession
we continue to print enormous amounts of unsupported currency and expect the
Chinese to back up our debt. We are mortgaging our national economy while our
manufacturing base languishes. The Chinese flood our markets with cheap and in
some cases very shoddy merchandise of questionable provenance. I realize that
would not be possible if there were no demand, but the result has been to
transfer large amounts of our national treasure to China for very little real
value. Walking through a "Dollar Store" or in this case a Harbor Freight, I'm
reminded that the Dutch bought Manhattan Island for $28 in beads. Are we to
lose our country in a shower of worthless shiny junk?
I have grandchildren whom I fear will be greatly disadvantaged by the
profligacy of our feel good generation. We need to support our own industrial
base or there will be no wealth to redistribute. And while we continue to buy
massive amounts of imports we have factions in our nation who press to destroy
the business that has not yet been run out of the country. Our president has
promised we will cut our carbon emissions by 83%, a move which if accomplished
will degrade the US standard of living to that last seen in 1875. Who is going
to be buying Chinese goods then?
Again I apologize for being so off topic.

Bill Lawrence

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  7 23:02:51 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 22:02:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair
In-Reply-To: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local>
References: <mailman.3327.1259244958.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Tom,

I have never been able to adjust a fuel pump diaphragm according to 
the instructions and have it work once installed. Beats me as to what to do!

Sorry,
John
BT7

At 06:02 PM 11/26/2009 +0100, Thomas Willig wrote:
>.... Did I do the membrane adjustment
>the wrong way? Any advises?
>
>Thomas Willig

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  8 00:56:34 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 08:56:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B1E06B2.3010007@chello.nl>

There are plenty of used units about that can be used as a donor, e.g. 
from Triumph, Mini, Morris, Landrover, MG etc. I do not know if they 
differ a lot or at all in spring rate, but I would guess they are all 
more or less the same. May be left and right handed units have different 
vacuum units.
However if you set the ignition dynamically, e.g. at 2500rpm (about when 
usually the max advance is reached) you can do away with it alltogether. 
Most performance engines do not use them. They are there to retard the 
ignition (about 4 degrees) when idling to reduce emissions somewhat.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

richard mayor schreef:
> Yesterday, I decided to check the vacuum unit on a distributor that I was
> getting ready to install in an early 3000 (Lucas DM6A). Zero, nada, nothing. I
> pulled out two other distributors and checked their vacuum units. Both very
> quickly leaked down to zero. Moss says they are not available. Does anyone
> have a source for these?
> Richard

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  8 01:44:24 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 09:44:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together   ?
In-Reply-To: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl>

It is a water repellent, not water based. It is not a perfect rust 
preventive as it will wear away quickly when exposed, but in unexposed 
areas like in carbs, distributor etc. it OK for a long time.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Dennis Yeast schreef:
> I once heard but have never confirmed that WD-40 is a partially water 
> based product and not the best product for rust prevention over time. 
> Anyone know the true story?
>
> Dennis Yeast
> email: yeastd at sbcglobal.net
>
> -

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Tue Dec  8 03:00:11 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 02:00:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3327.1259244958.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912080200g628cc1b4lc876ab96c2771409@mail.gmail.com>

Try here:  http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/sufuelpumparticles.html

Some great articles on SU pumps and he has a rebuilding service for them
too.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 10:02 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I have never been able to adjust a fuel pump diaphragm according to the
> instructions and have it work once installed. Beats me as to what to do!
>
> Sorry,
> John
> BT7
>
> At 06:02 PM 11/26/2009 +0100, Thomas Willig wrote:
>
>> .... Did I do the membrane adjustment
>> the wrong way? Any advises?
>>
>> Thomas Willig
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Dec  8 03:06:27 2009
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Eric Frenken)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 11:06:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <4B1E06B2.3010007@chello.nl>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
	<4B1E06B2.3010007@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <003b01ca77ee$1ba09130$52e1b390$@com>

Kees,

I have to disagree with you in that point. First it is most likely that
older, used vac units all leak or do not work properly unless they've been
rebuilt. Secondly the Lucas DM6A maxes out at about 4,000 rpm crank and last
but not least the vac unit on DM6As does not retard but advance the ignition
(right at the moment I don't know how much but I think it should be in the
region of 10-120), mainly under part load, when vacuum got to its max.

Dizzys on Cal. TR6s were equipped with 2 vac units, one for advancing, the
other for retarding the ignition. This was done for emission reasons, which
was never a concern as long as our Healeys had been built.

Eric
D

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im Auftrag von Oudesluys
Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Dezember 2009 08:57
An: richard mayor
Cc: healeys
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units

There are plenty of used units about that can be used as a donor, e.g.
from Triumph, Mini, Morris, Landrover, MG etc. I do not know if they
differ a lot or at all in spring rate, but I would guess they are all
more or less the same. May be left and right handed units have different
vacuum units.
However if you set the ignition dynamically, e.g. at 2500rpm (about when
usually the max advance is reached) you can do away with it alltogether.
Most performance engines do not use them. They are there to retard the
ignition (about 4 degrees) when idling to reduce emissions somewhat.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  8 04:13:49 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 12:13:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
In-Reply-To: <003b01ca77ee$1ba09130$52e1b390$@com>
References: <COL106-W48C67DA982D58236251A61C0900@phx.gbl>
	<4B1E06B2.3010007@chello.nl> <003b01ca77ee$1ba09130$52e1b390$@com>
Message-ID: <4B1E34ED.6080705@chello.nl>

Eric,
You are quite right, I made a major mistake here. I should have checked 
various applications first before leaving my comment.
My comment was more for high revving short stroke engines. I should have 
known better.
Apologies.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Eric Frenken schreef:
> Kees,
>
> I have to disagree with you in that point. First it is most likely that
> older, used vac units all leak or do not work properly unless they've been
> rebuilt. Secondly the Lucas DM6A maxes out at about 4,000 rpm crank and last
> but not least the vac unit on DM6As does not retard but advance the ignition
> (right at the moment I don't know how much but I think it should be in the
> region of 10-120), mainly under part load, when vacuum got to its max.
>
> Dizzys on Cal. TR6s were equipped with 2 vac units, one for advancing, the
> other for retarding the ignition. This was done for emission reasons, which
> was never a concern as long as our Healeys had been built.
>
> Eric
> D
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> Im Auftrag von Oudesluys
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Dezember 2009 08:57
> An: richard mayor
> Cc: healeys
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Distributor vacuum units
>
> There are plenty of used units about that can be used as a donor, e.g. 
> from Triumph, Mini, Morris, Landrover, MG etc. I do not know if they 
> differ a lot or at all in spring rate, but I would guess they are all 
> more or less the same. May be left and right handed units have different 
> vacuum units.
> However if you set the ignition dynamically, e.g. at 2500rpm (about when 
> usually the max advance is reached) you can do away with it alltogether. 
> Most performance engines do not use them. They are there to retard the 
> ignition (about 4 degrees) when idling to reduce emissions somewhat.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From grday at btinternet.com  Tue Dec  8 04:22:43 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 11:22:43 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>

Kees / Dennis,
WD40 should NOT BE USED as a preservative on parts as you describe!

As you may be aware it is a thick, sticky resinous oil that is the solute in 
a thinnish evaporating petroleum based solution.  Over time it evaporates to 
a yellowish varnish type film over parts and sticks them together.  At times 
they are stuck very firmly together ! <SMILE>  I have no doubt you will have 
come across components stored for a couple of years stained with such a film 
that needed a thinners or hot water (dishwasher - but don't let the wife 
know) wash to remove it.

Away from the car side, my father-in-law has a history of electrical 
engineering in the aircraft, vehicle component and machine manufacturing 
industries and changed trades entirely after being made redundant, buying a 
jewellers shop.  He qualified in watch and clock making (he made a clock 
from bare metal, turning and cutting shafts and gears - brilliant guy) and 
made a reasonable side income just from cleaning WD40 from clocks that were 
gummed up.  A full strip down and clean in the ultrasonic bath was the 
normal cure after an owner had decided to 'service' his own clock with the 
thinnest oil they knew - WD40 !!

Do a Google search on engine preserving and you won't find WD40 has a 
mention from the serious side.

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "Dennis Yeast" <yeastd at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together ?


> It is a water repellent, not water based. It is not a perfect rust 
> preventive as it will wear away quickly when exposed, but in unexposed 
> areas like in carbs, distributor etc. it OK for a long time.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Dennis Yeast schreef:
>> I once heard but have never confirmed that WD-40 is a partially water 
>> based product and not the best product for rust prevention over time. 
>> Anyone know the true story?
>>
>> Dennis Yeast
>> email: yeastd at sbcglobal.net

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Dec  8 05:15:18 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 12:15:18 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W28D70717859F05D777848EA58F0@phx.gbl>
References: <20091204173650.8482.qmail@server278.com>,
	<COL121-W1243143507AEC4DC3FDA42A4930@phx.gbl>,
	<531A11FCD2CD4BD68CBEC495ECCBB46C@GregPC>,
	<120520090517.16310.4B19ECD20002CC0400003FB622230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF020E03969B9A9B9CD20A0B97040C@att.net>,
	<C8A6E9994378427192F2E4B1E5771807@GregPC>,
	<471534970912050907o3e4ef4bar111405fe4a189e07@mail.gmail.com>,
	<DB2ADC40-F095-457B-A1E0-E11021780527@gmail.com>,
	<471534970912052125k44e0466dm411ff05b1da6b9bc@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BAY144-W2299357025B2AB1DA808A3A5910@phx.gbl>,
	<ff59076c0912062053n364329c4x40aa85e5ad9103d7@mail.gmail.com>,
	<ff59076c0912062203s744da7e9q62a1e666e68974ad@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY144-W28D70717859F05D777848EA58F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301ca7800$1bb65df0$532319d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

And. of course, by keeping their currency artificially low and, by having a
mindset towards what we used to call "dumping", they are effectively
exporting unemployment. That is very much one of the topics upon which yr*
President will have pressed them in recent talks.

*I see that I have lazily assumed that you are from the USA.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: 08 December 2009 06:01
To: Blue One Hundred; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks

Alan,
I apologize for starting this and will try to explain my feelings a little
more coherently.
You have made some great arguments and of course I am not against trade.
I......

Again I apologize for being so off topic.

Bill Lawrence
_______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  8 05:24:18 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 13:24:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
In-Reply-To: <AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl>
	<AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <4B1E4572.5020800@chello.nl>

Guy,

You certainly do not want to use WD40 in a clock, and most certainly not 
from a spray can (don't ask) but I do disagree with not spraying WD40 in 
a carb or distributor to keep corrosion at bay. It will leave a sticky, 
penetrating film that will dissolve quite easily in a degreasing agent 
similar to other oily or waxy preservative fluids. Anyway after storing 
such parts for many years you have to dismantle, clean and rebuild, 
whatever you used to keep corrosion at bay.

Ah, the dishwasher, that fine piece of equipment that cannot be missed 
by the automotive enthousiast. Excellent for carbs, distributor 
housings, oil pumps and even cilinder heads and engine blocks if not to 
big to fit in. If the usual detergent is not doing the job the special 
dishwasher cleaning agents will. Blow dry immediately using compressed 
air, to repel moisture in inaccesible places if there are steel parts 
involved (WD40 will not do any harm here either) to prevent machined 
surfaces from starting  to corrode and cover these surfaces with a 
preservative fluid. Put aluminium parts in a warm and dry environment, a 
hot air oven at 60C is fine.
I am lucky my wife is often away for a couple of days.

What about Googling dishwashers for engine cleaning?

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

From bernard.johnsen at ngc.com  Tue Dec  8 05:35:20 2009
From: bernard.johnsen at ngc.com (Johnsen, Bernard F (AS))
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 06:35:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together     ?
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP99FDF1A9A2FDDD4B12BAF9C38F0@phx.gbl>
References: <8CC45B9B2020A74-8C90-9732@webmail-m036.sysops.aol.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP99FDF1A9A2FDDD4B12BAF9C38F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <212DD23A1FC4D74BA8265F76926DF1200A54F9@XMBIL101.northgrum.com>

You can find LPS-3 and other interesting chemicals here -
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=879&PMCTLG=00
NFI - just a satisfied customer.

-Bernie Johnsen
1967 BJ8

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Dec  8 06:31:56 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:31:56 EST
Subject: [Healeys] harbor freight jacks
Message-ID: <c3e.5f88d82a.384faf4c@aol.com>

That's like apologizing in advance for farting in an elevator.  
 
The discussion has moved--as it usually does--from the original  subject 
(quality of a jack, tool, etc) to the political and philosophical  and since I 
am not interested in learning everyone's opinion on geopolitics and  
geoeconomics I have simply been deleting posts on the subject.  
 
Eventually the parade will pass, the float will turn the corner and be out  
of sight and we'll be on to the next topic to discuss, then morph into  
something else as we seem to like to do.
 
Best--Michael Oritt 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 12/8/2009 1:44:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ynotink at msn.com writes:

Again I  apologize for being so off topic.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  8 06:48:21 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 05:48:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3327.1259244958.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B1E5925.90700@comcast.net>

Thomas,

IIRC, you had a pump the worked until you mated up the two halves, or 
installed the cap?  If so, either the diaphragm is adjusted too tight--I 
think the List decided the shop manual instructions will leave the 
diaphragm a tad too tight--or the cap is installed incorrectly.

Not much help I know; maybe if you repeated the inquiry with a bit more 
info.

Bob



john spaur wrote:
> Tom,
>
> I have never been able to adjust a fuel pump diaphragm according to 
> the instructions and have it work once installed. Beats me as to what 
> to do!
>
> Sorry,
> John
> BT7
>
> At 06:02 PM 11/26/2009 +0100, Thomas Willig wrote:
>> .... Did I do the membrane adjustment
>> the wrong way? Any advises?
>>
>> Thomas Willig


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Dec  8 06:53:03 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 07:53:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912080200g628cc1b4lc876ab96c2771409@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3327.1259244958.11771.healeys@autox.team.net><E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local><6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<d49b03130912080200g628cc1b4lc876ab96c2771409@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FC572956516149DFB24E4B88D0DA3661@GregPC>

Mike the link provided link is a great resource, as is Dave Dubois, the guy 
who created it, like Jeff at advanced distributors except for SU pumps, I 
did not actually send my pump to him but he walked me through a rebuild 
after mine quit, even sent me a part gatis to replace the diode, can't 
remember what it is called, little electrical bit.

Adjusting the throw, there are instructions, but for me was more of a 
feel/trial and error sort of thing, but worked fine after rebuild, if you 
want to avoid install/reinstall work up a test rig with some tubes and a 
cup, I ran marvel mystery oil through mine, a very thin oil, less volatile 
than gasoline.

Greg Lemon

From grday at btinternet.com  Tue Dec  8 07:01:01 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 14:01:01 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl>
	<AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
	<4B1E4572.5020800@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <03DFB89688E144B19B1E4E2551788F99@user8634b3d69b>

Hi Kees,
It seems as if we will agree to disagree about using WD40 as a long term 
corrosion inhibitor; as soon as the dilutants evaporate it stops being a 
penetrating or flowing liquid and become the base for a problem to be 
removed in the future.  If I'm going to be removing deposits softer waxy 
preservatives are far easier to remove than the hard varnish style film WD40 
produces.  This may even need scraping, wire brushing etc to get rid of it 
before solvents will touch it.  Doing this inside a carb means a nut & bolt 
strip down not just a clean up.  The effects in a clock are just the same as 
in an engine, the only difference (as father-in-law said) is the size of the 
magnifying glass, they are both mechanical items.

However, after the dishwasher treatment I would use it sooner rather than 
later to help prevent ongoing residual chemical problems.  Googleing the 
dishwasher question came up with 
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305454    that was mildly 
amusing.
Particularly good was the guy who padded the inside of a tumble dryer so he 
could rotate the nut/bolt filled bike tanks as they dried.   Now if I had a 
dryer the size of a Healey fuel tank ....
Another household ( ! ) item to dry with is using the wife's hair dryer but 
getting the grease out of the little ridges on the heat control switch take 
time. <smile>

Regards,
Guy



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>

> Guy,
>
> You certainly do not want to use WD40 in a clock, and most certainly not 
> from a spray can (don't ask) but I do disagree with not spraying WD40 in a 
> carb or distributor to keep corrosion at bay. It will leave a sticky, 
> penetrating film that will dissolve quite easily in a degreasing agent 
> similar to other oily or waxy preservative fluids. Anyway after storing 
> such parts for many years you have to dismantle, clean and rebuild, 
> whatever you used to keep corrosion at bay.
>
> Ah, the dishwasher, that fine piece of equipment that cannot be missed by 
> the automotive enthousiast. Excellent for carbs, distributor housings, oil 
> pumps and even cilinder heads and engine blocks if not to big to fit in. 
> If the usual detergent is not doing the job the special dishwasher 
> cleaning agents will. Blow dry immediately using compressed air, to repel 
> moisture in inaccesible places if there are steel parts involved (WD40 
> will not do any harm here either) to prevent machined surfaces from 
> starting  to corrode and cover these surfaces with a preservative fluid. 
> Put aluminium parts in a warm and dry environment, a hot air oven at 60C 
> is fine.
> I am lucky my wife is often away for a couple of days.
>
> What about Googling dishwashers for engine cleaning?
>
> Cheers,
> Kees Oudesluijs

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec  8 07:37:46 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 15:37:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
In-Reply-To: <03DFB89688E144B19B1E4E2551788F99@user8634b3d69b>
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl>
	<AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
	<4B1E4572.5020800@chello.nl>
	<03DFB89688E144B19B1E4E2551788F99@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <4B1E64BA.1080903@chello.nl>

So I am not the only idiot around using domestic appliances (dishwasher, 
drier, hairdrier, oven) in our hobby.
I do have an extra old hot air oven/grill (also good for deep freeze 
pizza's), fridge (beer, glue, locktite) and deep freeze (interference 
fitments together with oven) in the garage.
If you clean aluminium in a dishwasher it may discolor a bit, but often 
it does not happen. Why? Perhaps to do with the various components of 
the alloy.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Googleing the dishwasher question came up with 
> http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305454    that was 
> mildly amusing.
> Particularly good was the guy who padded the inside of a tumble dryer 
> so he could rotate the nut/bolt filled bike tanks as they dried.   Now 
> if I had a dryer the size of a Healey fuel tank ....
> Another household ( ! ) item to dry with is using the wife's hair 
> dryer but getting the grease out of the little ridges on the heat 
> control switch take time. <smile>
>
> Regards,
> Guy

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 12:25:34 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 11:25:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
Message-ID: <173126440912081125t3a088fc6j69b2d2fb60ed8c09@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.englishparts.com/

Came across this site while researching headers for my car please share any
experiences -,+

The cold air box idea was not really for HP, more for looks.
the header idea is for HP and looks.

what should I look out for in making/buying headers?

Thanks.
In some respects it has been a good thing that I have waited 35 years to
finish my car. This list has been invaluable,
it just would have been a lot cheaper then, but I would be ready to do it
again now anyways.....:)

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Dec  8 13:21:16 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 12:21:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Made in China
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W4070A42F24A939D3674BA3A48F0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W4070A42F24A939D3674BA3A48F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420086@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Sure glad I put those new Moss Chinese calipers on the Healey Saturday.
The bleeder screws are metric and they leaked through the threads with
only a half turn. They are nice and shiny gold tinted. My wife likes the
look of them but I am gonna buy black caliper paint.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 7:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Made in China

After seeing this I'm not sure I want to fly on a plane made in China.

There's an explanation/excuse along with the pictures:

http://wwweng.uwyo.edu/classes/fa2009/ce4630/china_apartment_tilt.pdf

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  8 13:43:25 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 14:43:25 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
In-Reply-To: <173126440912081125t3a088fc6j69b2d2fb60ed8c09@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912081125t3a088fc6j69b2d2fb60ed8c09@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801ca7847$1769c7e0$463d57a0$@net>

They look like a Moss Motors distributer since the part numbers are from
Moss.
 
Ron
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 1:26 PM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
 
http://www.englishparts.com/
 
Came across this site while researching headers for my car please share any
experiences -,+
 
The cold air box idea was not really for HP, more for looks.
the header idea is for HP and looks.
 
what should I look out for in making/buying headers?
 
Thanks.
In some respects it has been a good thing that I have waited 35 years to
finish my car. This list has been invaluable,
it just would have been a lot cheaper then, but I would be ready to do it
again now anyways.....:)
 
-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Dec  8 14:18:47 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 21:18:47 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lights & loom query
Message-ID: <000001ca784c$07f2ca00$17d85e00$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Some time, sooner or later & very probably much later, my front grille will
return from the chromers(?). I shall then be able to put the car back the
way it was or should have been.
So, I previously asked you for and obtained info regarding the general
layout of the loom as it passed around the front of the car.
Now I 'd like to know about the specific routing of 
the wire from the loom to the stator tube
the wires from the loom to the side lights
the wires from the loom to the head lights.
ie are they clipped up to something and to what, where? 
Do they drop down from the loom straight away and take a low path? Or, do
they stay high and drop down to the lights at the end of their travel?

Mine were a complete dog's breakfast tied on with plastic cable ties and I'd
not want to do that again.

Regarding the chrome, I haven't seen the results but I've had mega problems
with these guys re their complete inability to:-
Stick to prices
Stick to dates
Answer the phone
Reply to answer phone messages
Reply to emails.

I'm always happy to "name and shame", but I think I'd better not until I get
the grille back! They're UK based, so most of you can relax!
Simon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec  8 14:59:40 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 21:59:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
In-Reply-To: <000801ca7847$1769c7e0$463d57a0$@net>
Message-ID: <865248733.1593551260309580245.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Got some shoes for my BJ8 from them when nobody else--Moss, VB, etc.--had them in stock. The shoes appeared to be relined but their info didn't specify that (the ones I got from them were bonded but I believe the originals are riveted). At any rate, the shoes are OK so far (4K miles or so). 

Service was satisfactory. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


They look like a Moss Motors distributer since the part numbers are from 
Moss. 

Ron 


http://www.englishparts.com/ 

Came across this site while researching headers for my car please share any 
experiences -,+ 

The cold air box idea was not really for HP, more for looks. 
the header idea is for HP and looks. 

what should I look out for in making/buying headers? 

Thanks. 
In some respects it has been a good thing that I have waited 35 years to 
finish my car. This list has been invaluable, 
it just would have been a lot cheaper then, but I would be ready to do it 
again now anyways.....:) 

-- 
I Erbs 
Portland, OR 

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Tue Dec  8 15:13:34 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 17:13:34 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
Message-ID: <6720874.1260310414939.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I,

they are a great resource for us in Atlanta because we can walk in.  They have supplied us for over 20 years.  They ship anywhere.

They are a Moss dealer...one of the largest and their pricing reflects it too.

They know their stuff and stand behind it.

NFI - just a very happy customer.

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA - AHC USA
1959 BN7 and 1974 Jensen Healey

-----Original Message-----
>From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
>Sent: Dec 8, 2009 2:25 PM
>To: healey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] english parts.com
>
>http://www.englishparts.com/
>
>Came across this site while researching headers for my car please share any
>experiences -,+
>
>The cold air box idea was not really for HP, more for looks.
>the header idea is for HP and looks.
>
>what should I look out for in making/buying headers?
>
>Thanks.
>In some respects it has been a good thing that I have waited 35 years to
>finish my car. This list has been invaluable,
>it just would have been a lot cheaper then, but I would be ready to do it
>again now anyways.....:)
>
>-- 
>I Erbs
>Portland, OR
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  8 15:55:14 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 17:55:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock
Message-ID: <BAY124-W479CD148F6AE05377FD9AD48F0@phx.gbl>

Can the boot lock barrel be removed?  My issue: Never had a key for the 59'
100-6 boot lock.  Had one cut to code number from Triple C in York, Pa
($9.95). Key fit and with some lube managed to work it back and fourth until
it spun the lock 180.  Funny thing is, it doesn't lock the handle- stays
unlocked.  Probably something stuck inside the handle?  Want to take it apart
and see, if it is possible.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Dec  8 16:31:23 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 18:31:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lights & loom query
References: <000001ca784c$07f2ca00$17d85e00$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <B2E636BC0A074AF4A8B4B1CBC9EC88B9@LIFEBOOK>

Simon,

For others' information I believe you have a MK 2 BT7  ??

The wiring from the stator tube comes out of the tube and goes up to plug 
into the four Lucas tube/bullet connectors of the main harness. These should 
be located in the immediate vicinity of just under the sliding bonnet latch 
assembly. As the stator wiring goes across the X brace in front of the 
radiator, a single barbed clip with a raised semicircle relief clips the 
harness to the X brace very near the middle of the X.

Main front loom to side lights. I already sent you pics of the location of 
the right and left main harness plug-ins for side and head lamps. The wiring 
coming out the back of the sidelamp boot is wrapped back along side the 
cylindrical body of the boot where an "O" ring is rolled over boot and loom 
to keep it tight to the boot ansd away from the front tire. From there the 
side lamp wiring goes inboard, under and forward of the inner wing splash 
panel where it then goes up and plugs into the main forward harness.

Head lamp wires (high beam, low beam and black earth wire) are plastic 
coated and are braided together from where they exit the headlamp pot.These 
braided loom goes up and over the top of the iner wheel arch. A barbed 
spring clip holds them to the top flange of the inner wheel arch. Once 
inboard, they plug into the main forward harness.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 4:18 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lights & loom query


> Some time, sooner or later & very probably much later, my front grille 
> will
> return from the chromers(?). I shall then be able to put the car back the
> way it was or should have been.
> So, I previously asked you for and obtained info regarding the general
> layout of the loom as it passed around the front of the car.
> Now I 'd like to know about the specific routing of
> the wire from the loom to the stator tube
> the wires from the loom to the side lights
> the wires from the loom to the head lights.
> ie are they clipped up to something and to what, where?
> Do they drop down from the loom straight away and take a low path? Or, do
> they stay high and drop down to the lights at the end of their travel?
>
> Mine were a complete dog's breakfast tied on with plastic cable ties and 
> I'd
> not want to do that again.

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  8 16:32:54 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 15:32:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
Message-ID: <COL121-W2250C06DD0F40314BBF477A48F0@phx.gbl>

Bottom line. California DMV does not want YOM plates on your car and will only
allow them if you can prove they either came off the car originally or you can
prove the first sticker (on the bottom of a fat pile of later stickers) on the
plate had the exact year your car was designed for, regardless of year made.
ie, A 64 model year needs to have a 64 sticker on the plate you submit.
Numbers and letters embossed on the plate mean nothing.
If others have had problems with the California DMV regardless of make of the
car, or know any one who is having a problem, please contact me at:
 tahoehealey at hotmail.com.
I would like to start a letter writing campaign to the assembly and senators
to have the law re-defined to be interpreted as it was meant to be
interpreted.
Sorry to bother those who have no interest in this.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 18:23:50 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 17:23:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock
In-Reply-To: <BAY124-W479CD148F6AE05377FD9AD48F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY124-W479CD148F6AE05377FD9AD48F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <173126440912081723m21c7db31n8692e6ba243d7ffe@mail.gmail.com>

I have my new boot lock in hand.
You need to remove the pin holding the handle into the bezel.
ther should be a release pin hole in the handle piece. put key in and insert
strong paperclip like thing in hole. it should release the tumblers. I am
going to take mine to a locksmith this weekend to match the key with my
ignition.

On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 2:55 PM, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>wrote:

> Can the boot lock barrel be removed?  My issue: Never had a key for the 59'
> 100-6 boot lock.  Had one cut to code number from Triple C in York, Pa
> ($9.95). Key fit and with some lube managed to work it back and fourth
> until
> it spun the lock 180.  Funny thing is, it doesn't lock the handle- stays
> unlocked.  Probably something stuck inside the handle?  Want to take it
> apart
> and see, if it is possible.
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
>
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
> d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009<http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci%0Ad=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 18:27:11 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 17:27:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
Message-ID: <173126440912081727i21381984j298e691785d89b2d@mail.gmail.com>

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1499613319.html
NFI
willing to check out

anyone on list selling this?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  8 20:00:20 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 22:00:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together     ?
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl><AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
	<4B1E4572.5020800@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <002201ca787b$beec7b00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

So when your doing your dishes in your Parts Washer out in the garage do you 
use
dish detergents or solvents.   ; )

You guys must have the most understanding wives ever.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "Guy R Day" <grday at btinternet.com>
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together ?


> Guy,
>
> You certainly do not want to use WD40 in a clock, and most certainly not 
> from a spray can (don't ask) but I do disagree with not spraying WD40 in a 
> carb or distributor to keep corrosion at bay. It will leave a sticky, 
> penetrating film that will dissolve quite easily in a degreasing agent 
> similar to other oily or waxy preservative fluids. Anyway after storing 
> such parts for many years you have to dismantle, clean and rebuild, 
> whatever you used to keep corrosion at bay.
>
> Ah, the dishwasher, that fine piece of equipment that cannot be missed by 
> the automotive enthousiast. Excellent for carbs, distributor housings, oil 
> pumps and even cilinder heads and engine blocks if not to big to fit in. 
> If the usual detergent is not doing the job the special dishwasher 
> cleaning agents will. Blow dry immediately using compressed air, to repel 
> moisture in inaccesible places if there are steel parts involved (WD40 
> will not do any harm here either) to prevent machined surfaces from 
> starting  to corrode and cover these surfaces with a preservative fluid. 
> Put aluminium parts in a warm and dry environment, a hot air oven at 60C 
> is fine.
> I am lucky my wife is often away for a couple of days.
>
> What about Googling dishwashers for engine cleaning?
>
> Cheers,
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec  8 20:15:47 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 03:15:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?storage?=
Message-ID: <20091209031547.26250.qmail@server278.com>

is Cosmoline still on the market, and would it be plausible to cover and engine with it before long term storage.  i can remember as a youngster helping my dad coat farm equipment with it.  we had a few drums of ww2 surplus around and used it on lots of metal things since it rained a lot in oregon.   might work.    hjim

From csooch1 at aol.com  Tue Dec  8 20:29:03 2009
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 21:29:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Made in China
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W4070A42F24A939D3674BA3A48F0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W4070A42F24A939D3674BA3A48F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8E23CAA2D19A45038D7C0033D42E105B@ChrisPC>

Rebar?  If a building like that fell over from an earthquake or something in
the USA there would be bent pieces of 2" diameter rebar all over the place.
Looks like they strung it together with baling wire, and didn't even do that
right.  Where are the top to bottom connectors?  Side to side trusses, base
stabilization?  Concrete only works in compression!!

Hacks exist in every country, but this is pathetic. An average freshman
structural engineer could do better.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Made in China

After seeing this I'm not sure I want to fly on a plane made in China.

There's an explanation/excuse along with the pictures:

http://wwweng.uwyo.edu/classes/fa2009/ce4630/china_apartment_tilt.pdf

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Tue Dec  8 22:28:44 2009
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 22:28:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] storage
In-Reply-To: <20091209031547.26250.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091209031547.26250.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4B1F358C.5060408@qwest.net>

That stuff is a PIA to remove later...but it works good.

healeymanjim at hansencc.net wrote:
> is Cosmoline still on the market, and would it be plausible to cover and engine with it before long term storage.  i can remember as a youngster helping my dad coat farm equipment with it.  we had a few drums of ww2 surplus around and used it on lots of metal things since it rained a lot in oregon.   might work.    hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thewalkers at qwest.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  9 01:04:37 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 09:04:37 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together    ?
In-Reply-To: <002201ca787b$beec7b00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <210638.85057.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4B1E11E8.60102@chello.nl><AE46A3EE79DA4EE5A7802415742EB9BE@user8634b3d69b>
	<4B1E4572.5020800@chello.nl>
	<002201ca787b$beec7b00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4B1F5A15.9040008@chello.nl>

Are you kidding? Would you allow your wife to use the parts washer to do 
the dishes?
Imagine all the dirt contaminating your nice and shiny engine parts!!

In case one contemplates using solvents in a dish washer!!
I would not use solvents as I doubt that the dishwasher will survive 
those because of all the plastic and rubber components used and I would 
not feel happy at all with the heating element in contact with solvents. 
Use detergents. One can experiment a bit using low foaming washing 
powder instead of the dish washer detergents of which at least some can 
cause discoloration of some alloys.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Mark LaPierre schreef:
> So when your doing your dishes in your Parts Washer out in the garage 
> do you use
> dish detergents or solvents.   ; )
>
> You guys must have the most understanding wives ever.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: "Guy R Day" <grday at btinternet.com>
> Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 7:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Extra engine, break it down or leave it together ?
>
>
>> Guy,
>>
>> You certainly do not want to use WD40 in a clock, and most certainly 
>> not from a spray can (don't ask) but I do disagree with not spraying 
>> WD40 in a carb or distributor to keep corrosion at bay. It will leave 
>> a sticky, penetrating film that will dissolve quite easily in a 
>> degreasing agent similar to other oily or waxy preservative fluids. 
>> Anyway after storing such parts for many years you have to dismantle, 
>> clean and rebuild, whatever you used to keep corrosion at bay.
>>
>> Ah, the dishwasher, that fine piece of equipment that cannot be 
>> missed by the automotive enthousiast. Excellent for carbs, 
>> distributor housings, oil pumps and even cilinder heads and engine 
>> blocks if not to big to fit in. If the usual detergent is not doing 
>> the job the special dishwasher cleaning agents will. Blow dry 
>> immediately using compressed air, to repel moisture in inaccesible 
>> places if there are steel parts involved (WD40 will not do any harm 
>> here either) to prevent machined surfaces from starting  to corrode 
>> and cover these surfaces with a preservative fluid. Put aluminium 
>> parts in a warm and dry environment, a hot air oven at 60C is fine.
>> I am lucky my wife is often away for a couple of days.
>>
>> What about Googling dishwashers for engine cleaning?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive 

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Dec  9 05:34:38 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 12:34:38 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lights & loom query
In-Reply-To: <B2E636BC0A074AF4A8B4B1CBC9EC88B9@LIFEBOOK>
References: <000001ca784c$07f2ca00$17d85e00$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<B2E636BC0A074AF4A8B4B1CBC9EC88B9@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <000301ca78cb$f982e600$ec88b200$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Rich,
Thank you very much indeed for this.
Yes, my car is Mk2 BT7.
Simon.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] 
Sent: 08 December 2009 23:31
To: Simon Lachlan; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights & loom query

Simon,

For others' information I believe you have a MK 2 BT7  ??

The wiring from the stator tube comes out of the tube and goes up to plug 
into the four Lucas tube/bullet connectors of the main harness. These should

be located in the immediate vicinity of just under the sliding bonnet latch 
assembly. As the stator wiring goes across the X brace in front of the 
radiator, a single barbed clip with a raised semicircle relief clips the 
harness to the X brace very near the middle of the X.

Main front loom to side lights. I already sent you pics of the location of 
the right and left main harness plug-ins for side and head lamps. The wiring

coming out the back of the sidelamp boot is wrapped back along side the 
cylindrical body of the boot where an "O" ring is rolled over boot and loom 
to keep it tight to the boot ansd away from the front tire. From there the 
side lamp wiring goes inboard, under and forward of the inner wing splash 
panel where it then goes up and plugs into the main forward harness.

Head lamp wires (high beam, low beam and black earth wire) are plastic 
coated and are braided together from where they exit the headlamp pot.These 
braided loom goes up and over the top of the iner wheel arch. A barbed 
spring clip holds them to the top flange of the inner wheel arch. Once 
inboard, they plug into the main forward harness.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 4:18 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lights & loom query


> Some time, sooner or later & very probably much later, my front grille 
> will
> return from the chromers(?). I shall then be able to put the car back the
> way it was or should have been.
> So, I previously asked you for and obtained info regarding the general
> layout of the loom as it passed around the front of the car.
> Now I 'd like to know about the specific routing of
> the wire from the loom to the stator tube
> the wires from the loom to the side lights
> the wires from the loom to the head lights.
> ie are they clipped up to something and to what, where?
> Do they drop down from the loom straight away and take a low path? Or, do
> they stay high and drop down to the lights at the end of their travel?
>
> Mine were a complete dog's breakfast tied on with plastic cable ties and 
> I'd
> not want to do that again.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  9 08:02:02 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 07:02:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W2250C06DD0F40314BBF477A48F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <274322.49470.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Richard,

Try going on the H.A.M.B. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ and do a search
for YOM.  Lots of good info there.  Seems like some people have had good luck
going through AAA.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 12/8/09, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, December 8, 2009, 6:32 PM

Bottom line. California DMV does not want YOM plates on your car and will
only
allow them if you can prove they either came off the car originally or you
can
prove the first sticker (on the bottom of a fat pile of later stickers) on
the
plate had the exact year your car was designed for, regardless of year made.
ie, A 64 model year needs to have a 64 sticker on the plate you submit.
Numbers and letters embossed on the plate mean nothing.
If others have had problems with the California DMV regardless of make of the
car, or know any one who is having a problem, please contact me at:
 tahoehealey at hotmail.com.
I would like to start a letter writing campaign to the assembly and senators
to have the law re-defined to be interpreted as it was meant to be
interpreted.
Sorry to bother those who have no interest in this.
Rich Kahn

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From cvaselaar at earthlink.net  Wed Dec  9 08:03:03 2009
From: cvaselaar at earthlink.net (Charlie Vaselaar)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 09:03:03 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior Fabrics - Looking for a source
Message-ID: <4599345.1260370983497.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Does anyone know a supplier that offers OEM or OEM equivalent materials for a BJ8.  In particular, I would like to find a source for the seat material with the small embossed squares and the rear seat material with the heat welded large square pattern.

Thanks,

C. Vaselaar

From bighealey at astound.net  Wed Dec  9 08:48:53 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 07:48:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair
References: <mailman.3327.1259244958.11771.healeys@autox.team.net><E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D629FAE@dw01.ruda.local>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091207220052.020c5640@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0458FE1D375945F081BD226580A9064B@Soderling>

Pages 115 and 215  of Norman Nock's "Tech Talk" both detail the proper 
procedure for adjusting the fuel pump diaphragm.
Vroom vroom,
John
Erika the Red


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Thomas Willig" <twillig at ruda.de>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU fuelpump repair


> Tom,
>
> I have never been able to adjust a fuel pump diaphragm according to the 
> instructions and have it work once installed. Beats me as to what to do!
>
> Sorry,
> John
> BT7
>
> At 06:02 PM 11/26/2009 +0100, Thomas Willig wrote:
>>.... Did I do the membrane adjustment
>>the wrong way? Any advises?
>>
>>Thomas Willig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bighealey at astound.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Dec  9 09:09:47 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:09:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior Fabrics - Looking for a source
References: <4599345.1260370983497.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0326035BDD71499AADB99B615ACF1182@LIFEBOOK>

Heritage Trim and Upholstery has both. http://www.heritagetrim.com

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie Vaselaar" <cvaselaar at earthlink.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 10:03 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior Fabrics - Looking for a source


> Does anyone know a supplier that offers OEM or OEM equivalent materials 
> for a BJ8.  In particular, I would like to find a source for the seat 
> material with the small embossed squares and the rear seat material with 
> the heat welded large square pattern.
>
> Thanks,
>
> C. Vaselaar

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  9 11:23:32 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock- update!
In-Reply-To: <000801ca78ad$100ddde0$302999a0$@rr.com>
References: <BAY124-W479CD148F6AE05377FD9AD48F0@phx.gbl>,
	<000801ca78ad$100ddde0$302999a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY124-W48281A09CCA9CA775D8DB1D48E0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to all that assisted.  IT NOW LOCKS!!!  When I had my shop, I would
have never taken the time to pull one apart because it would probably have
been cheaper to buy a new one, and less likely to come back. Working on my own
cars is a different story, saving the money is a good trade off for the time
spent.

What I found was the "nub" on the bottom of the barrel had broken off, and
couldn't lock.  So I drilled a small hole and made a pin to replace the "nub".
Cleaned/ lubed and presto- works great!  Thanks all.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."




> From: sbyers at ec.rr.com
> To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Boot lock
> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 03:53:22 -0500
>
> Hi,
> I assume that your boot lock is the same as for a BJ8. See the attached
> photos. To get access to the lock cylinder retaining pin, you have to file
> off the swage from the square shaft to remove the retainer bell, washers,
> and spring. When you reassemble, us a chisel-type instrument to re-swage
> the shaft.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of S and T Miller
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:55 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock
>
> Can the boot lock barrel be removed? My issue: Never had a key for the 59'
> 100-6 boot lock. Had one cut to code number from Triple C in York, Pa
> ($9.95). Key fit and with some lube managed to work it back and fourth
until
> it spun the lock 180. Funny thing is, it doesn't lock the handle- stays
> unlocked. Probably something stuck inside the handle? Want to take it
> apart
> and see, if it is possible.
>
> The Millers
> "British Car Nuts"
>
> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299
>
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219
>
> 1964 MGB 40841
>
> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive gift.
>
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oc
> i
> d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Dec  9 11:54:13 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 10:54:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com><BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
	<8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045>
	<F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <986F07B8-3C34-4E69-B81F-FCDCF38EE5A7@cox.net>

This one looks cool:

http://tinyurl.com/yzsn8wk

BTW, I had gone as far as making a mockup in cardboard of a cold air  
box for my triple SU Healey, but was recommended against it as it  
might starve the rear carb. I will still flow cool air to the carbs  
somehow...

Wilko
San Diego

On Dec 7, 2009, at 6:56 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> The objective is to look cool
>
> I Erbs
> Sent from my iPod

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 12:20:25 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:20:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] headers
Message-ID: <173126440912091120h296d5521y2de176230573c492@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,
If you have a good working tube header on your BT7 could you send me some
photos of the flange and collector area? The welding teacher has offered to
make a set for me but would like to see a reference

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From info at atteanlodge.com  Wed Dec  9 12:33:00 2009
From: info at atteanlodge.com (Attean Lake Lodge)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 14:33:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
Message-ID: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>

Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been able
to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it running
is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were rebuilt by Joe
Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the bowls etc. etc. Valve
and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be a vacuum problem
so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low of 100 and high of
125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had been completely
rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything right including new
rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the head planed. Yes, I
checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able to run the engine
for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and dies. Did the
rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any thoughts will be much
appreciated will I load the shotgun.

Brad Holden
67 BJ8

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed Dec  9 12:37:39 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:37:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 dash
Message-ID: <4B1FFC83.7000309@htcnet.org>

Is anyone interested in a couple of BJ8 dash wood sections.  Two 
complete sets, original, maybe useful for patterns, or for the more 
ambitious, re veneering.  Free for the shipping.

John
BJ8s
Hightown, VA

From grabow.bernie at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 13:14:57 2009
From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com (Bernie Grabow)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 15:14:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
Message-ID: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>

I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter.  The filter I have been using is
a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter.  I have
not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
Purolator or K&N filter.  Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter.  Or is
there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
Bernie

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed Dec  9 14:03:40 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 16:03:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 dashs
Message-ID: <4B2010AC.5000101@htcnet.org>

That was quick, both spoken for.

John
BJ8s

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  9 14:06:26 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:06:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <COL121-W12DC8C10FCD205412C36ACA48E0@phx.gbl>

The variance is a little high between the cylinders. I'm not sure that your
compression readings would cause the problem of keeping the engine running.
About 5 psi range seems to be except able. What is the order of the
compression? If you have two low ones next to each other it may be a head
gasket. If you are at any high altitude your readings may be low but ok for
that altitude. I think normally, we look for 150 to160 at sea level.  I'd
start with resetting the timing (static). From there I would re adjust the
carbs by the book then modify as needed.

> From: info at atteanlodge.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 14:33:00 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] low compression
>
> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been
able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it
running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were rebuilt by Joe
> Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the bowls etc. etc.
Valve
> and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be a vacuum
problem
> so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low of 100 and high
of
> 125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had been completely
> rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything right including
new
> rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the head planed. Yes,
I
> checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able to run the
engine
> for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and dies. Did the
> rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any thoughts will be
much
> appreciated will I load the shotgun.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec  9 14:32:57 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:32:57 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <9C1B55B4-1B92-4A03-9885-A2754E46890B@sbcglobal.net>

Check the cam timing a very common mistake if the rebuilder is not  
familiar with the Healey engine




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 9, 2009, at 11:33 AM, Attean Lake Lodge wrote:

> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not  
> been able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep  
> it running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were rebuilt  
> by Joe
> Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the bowls etc.  
> etc. Valve
> and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be a  
> vacuum problem
> so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low of 100  
> and high of
> 125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had been  
> completely
> rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything right  
> including new
> rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the head  
> planed. Yes, I
> checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able to run  
> the engine
> for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and dies. Did the
> rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any thoughts  
> will be much
> appreciated will I load the shotgun.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Dec  9 14:44:53 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 16:44:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Test Please delete
Message-ID: <7fa0e5c60912091344l558a4f38na4fac81adbceab4c@mail.gmail.com>

Test

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  9 14:54:24 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:54:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W47BAED30A4500360BA9939A48E0@phx.gbl>

K&N 2009. The best and available everywhere.

> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 15:14:57 -0500
> From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
>
> I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
> a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter.  The filter I have been using is
> a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
> at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter.  I have
> not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
> Purolator or K&N filter.  Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
> Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter.  Or is
> there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  9 14:56:39 2009
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 21:56:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT124-W876024818D091D8BD6470D18E0@phx.gbl>

Bernie:

What you can also do is go to the Fram site, see what application the PH2825
is for, I did this and it's mainly for Subaru, Toyota and Fords, mostly older
models. As well there is a listing for heavy duty applications like Kubota
tractors etc. If you are not comfortable with the Fram filters, go to one of
the dealers for the model the application is for and buy one of their brand
name ones. Not sure if they'd be better but may be worth a try.



Jean Caron

> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 15:14:57 -0500
> From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
>
> I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
> a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter. The filter I have been using is
> a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
> at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter. I have
> not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
> Purolator or K&N filter. Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
> Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter. Or is
> there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Dec  9 15:08:21 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 14:08:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D034200A0@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I use the Motorcraft FL-1A full size filter. They are as good as Wix or
typical Purolators. The clearance is very tight with the brake booster.
You should probably get one as an experiment if you are unsure if a full
size will fit.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 15:10:14 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 14:10:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912091410n173e3cd7l48c40fa877edfa3e@mail.gmail.com>

First off your compression gauge could very well be pessimistic.  It would
not be the first inaccurate compression tester I have seen.
Secondly even with compression of 100-125 the engine should stay running,
and not die.  I would look way elsewhere before I started tearing the engine
or the engine builder apart.
One good place to start is to check for vacuum leaks.  A vacuum leak could
easily cause the problems you are having.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 9, 2009 at 11:33 AM, Attean Lake Lodge <info at atteanlodge.com>wrote:

> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been
> able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it
> running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were rebuilt by Joe
> Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the bowls etc. etc.
> Valve
> and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be a vacuum
> problem
> so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low of 100 and high
> of
> 125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had been completely
> rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything right including
> new
> rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the head planed. Yes,
> I
> checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able to run the
> engine
> for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and dies. Did the
> rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any thoughts will be
> much
> appreciated will I load the shotgun.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  9 15:14:28 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 22:14:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <612706557.2057491260396868903.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I seem to recall my spin-on adapter from Moss came with a Fram PH3600. I use a Wix equivalent with good results--the PH3600 is a common size. 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use 
a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter. The filter I have been using is 
a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or 
at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter. I have 
not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate 
Purolator or K&N filter. Can anyone on the list tell me the correct 
Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter. Or is 
there a better oil filter out there I should be using? 
Bernie 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Dec  9 15:16:03 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 17:16:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004901ca791d$32cf7670$986e6350$@net>

Unipart GFE 22 or GFE 121 available at Pep Boys, NAPA part 1302 or Gold
1516, Wix 51516 available at many sources.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bernie Grabow
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 3:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter

I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter.  The filter I have been using is
a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter.  I have
not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
Purolator or K&N filter.  Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter.  Or is
there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
Bernie
_______________________________________________
Support

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  9 15:19:21 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 23:19:21 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <4B202269.90002@chello.nl>

If the pistons and rings have not bedded in yet you could have 
differences in the compression. Also being stored for years does not 
help. You cannot take proper readings with a cold and not run in engine. 
Besides these compression figures do not indicate it is the cause of the 
bad running, it should run rather well..
Check leaks in or around the intake manifold, vacuum pipe for the servo, 
manifold/carb gaskets? How did you set the idle mixture? Are the pistons 
in the carbs going up and down freely? Do the pistons in the carbs drop 
with a distinctive click if you lift and drop them? Blocked fuel line? 
Do you have enough fuel pressure at the carbs, should be around 5psi. It 
sounds very much like a simple fuel/carburettor problem  resulting in a 
very weak mixture.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Attean Lake Lodge schreef:
> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. ...............
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  9 15:43:18 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 23:43:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B202806.3030401@chello.nl>

Check this reference list for the K&N HP-2005. Your fram filter is also 
there so in practice all those filters should be compatible.
Your filter aplication includes many 70-80's Toyota's, Subaru's and Fords.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/kn_cross_ref.aspx?part=HP-2005

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bernie Grabow schreef:
> I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
> a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter.  The filter I have been using is
> a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
> at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter.  I have
> not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
> Purolator or K&N filter.  Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
> Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter.  Or is
> there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec  9 15:47:24 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 23:47:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <4B2028FC.4070005@chello.nl>

Forgot to mention that you should messure your compression with the 
butterfly valves fully open to get a proper reading.
Kees Oudesluijs


Attean Lake Lodge schreef:
> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. 

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Dec  9 16:09:36 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 17:09:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <SNT124-W876024818D091D8BD6470D18E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EE257084673946CC8B4A296840FC5E75@DANSTROM>

Per NAPA cross reference number for the K&N filter is 7355564 from the Fram
PH2825.  They should have that in stock for $12.95.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jean Caron
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 3:57 PM
To: grabow.bernie at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil filter

Bernie:

What you can also do is go to the Fram site, see what application the PH2825
is for, I did this and it's mainly for Subaru, Toyota and Fords, mostly
older
models. As well there is a listing for heavy duty applications like Kubota
tractors etc. If you are not comfortable with the Fram filters, go to one of
the dealers for the model the application is for and buy one of their brand
name ones. Not sure if they'd be better but may be worth a try.



Jean Caron

> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 15:14:57 -0500
> From: grabow.bernie at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
>
> I have a spin on oil filter adapter on my 66 BJ8 and would like to use
> a Purolator Pureone or a K&N filter. The filter I have been using is
> a Fram PH2825 and I understand that Fram is not the best oil filter or
> at least has the reputation of not being the best oil filter. I have
> not been able to cross reference the Fram PH2825 to an appropriate
> Purolator or K&N filter. Can anyone on the list tell me the correct
> Purolator or K&N filter designation for my spin on adapter. Or is
> there a better oil filter out there I should be using?
> Bernie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691815
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Dec  9 16:42:19 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 16:42:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <4B202269.90002@chello.nl>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1> <4B202269.90002@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1FADB20B6B0B4ED59DA481F623AC1AF6@oscar>

Right, the symptom is that it will run for several minutes before
"sputtering" and dying. That is a fuel starvation issue.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 3:19 PM
To: Attean Lake Lodge
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] low compression

If the pistons and rings have not bedded in yet you could have 
differences in the compression. Also being stored for years does not 
help. You cannot take proper readings with a cold and not run in engine. 
Besides these compression figures do not indicate it is the cause of the 
bad running, it should run rather well..
Check leaks in or around the intake manifold, vacuum pipe for the servo, 
manifold/carb gaskets? How did you set the idle mixture? Are the pistons 
in the carbs going up and down freely? Do the pistons in the carbs drop 
with a distinctive click if you lift and drop them? Blocked fuel line? 
Do you have enough fuel pressure at the carbs, should be around 5psi. It 
sounds very much like a simple fuel/carburettor problem  resulting in a 
very weak mixture.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Attean Lake Lodge schreef:
> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been
able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it
running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. ...............
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Wed Dec  9 17:31:40 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 16:31:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <173126440912081727i21381984j298e691785d89b2d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912081727i21381984j298e691785d89b2d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>

"was serviced by the Portland BMC dealer since delivery"
I didn't know we still had BMC dealers working on our Healeys.
Time warp?
Ron


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:27 PM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1499613319.html
NFI
willing to check out

anyone on list selling this?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as rdavies1 at cox.net

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 18:04:46 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:04:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
References: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912091704x659567cdh8543d91bbc4fd187@mail.gmail.com>

Brad -

Alot of top healey experts here (and normally spot on) but they haven't read
your email completely.  Dave  Porter has a good idea, I would check the fuel
starvation (usually caused by a rusty tank that has sat and collected rust
and crud while the car sat idle, clogging up your fuel system).

Low compression is not your problem.

First things first.  SU carbs are not like your typical Holley or Carter
carb when the only adjustment is float level and idle speed.  Just because
you set the float level and had Joe Curto rebuild them doesn't mean you've
actually tuned the carbs to make the car run.

Ok, now you need to think logically.  You need to tune your car in the
following order:


1) Adjust valve clearances (sounds like you've done that)
2) Check your points to make sure the gap is correct.  Make sure plug gaps
are correct also.
3) Adjust your timing using a strobe
4) Screw down the mixture adjustor screws at least two full turns to
enrichen the mixture.  This should at least keep your car running.
5) Now you can start adjusting your carbs using the standard adjusting
sequence.  Luckily Ed of Just Brits has the procedure online here
http://justbrits.com/Articles/HD8tuning.html
6) Over the next 500 miles you will need to be adjusting your carbs bit by
bit as the engine beds in.


Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 3:33 AM, Attean Lake Lodge <info at atteanlodge.com>wrote:


> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not been
> able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I can keep it
> running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were rebuilt by Joe
> Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the bowls etc. etc.
> Valve
> and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be a vacuum
> problem
> so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low of 100 and high
> of
> 125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had been completely
> rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything right including
> new
> rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the head planed. Yes,
> I
> checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able to run the
> engine
> for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and dies. Did the
> rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any thoughts will be
> much
> appreciated will I load the shotgun.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 18:07:44 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:07:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] oil filter
In-Reply-To: <004901ca791d$32cf7670$986e6350$@net>
References: <bc67b4c60912091214k721f1a28qd843990515db40a1@mail.gmail.com>
	<004901ca791d$32cf7670$986e6350$@net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912091707j76439fbbq2def37a84e567b0@mail.gmail.com>

Bernie -

NAPA Gold or Wix are the best filters to get (see john's email).  That's
what I use.  I think they rate better than K&N if I recall.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8
On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:16 AM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> Unipart GFE 22 or GFE 121 available at Pep Boys, NAPA part 1302 or Gold
> 1516, Wix 51516 available at many sources.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec  9 18:10:16 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:10:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
References: <173126440912081727i21381984j298e691785d89b2d@mail.gmail.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912091710r1ace590enb48d063db5af7ca0@mail.gmail.com>

So it hasn't been serviced since 1985.  details details...

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Ron Davies <rdavies1 at cox.net> wrote:

> "was serviced by the Portland BMC dealer since delivery"
> I didn't know we still had BMC dealers working on our Healeys.
> Time warp?
> Ron
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:27 PM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
>
> http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1499613319.html
> NFI
> willing to check out
>
> anyone on list selling this?
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rdavies1 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Dec  9 18:26:14 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 18:26:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
References: <173126440912081727i21381984j298e691785d89b2d@mail.gmail.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <B9B8F490B5C543CBA1496E1CD91DB97D@oscar>

Monty Shelton, Tom Monaco?

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Davies
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 5:32 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR

"was serviced by the Portland BMC dealer since delivery"
I didn't know we still had BMC dealers working on our Healeys.
Time warp?
Ron


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:27 PM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1499613319.html
NFI
willing to check out

anyone on list selling this?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as rdavies1 at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From csooch1 at aol.com  Wed Dec  9 18:31:02 2009
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 19:31:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] storage
In-Reply-To: <20091209031547.26250.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091209031547.26250.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <A7BEEFFE6719403D8780444F7E35B3BF@ChrisPC>

Hi Jim,

I don't know if that is available these days or not.  However a suitable
alternative that I have used, and stored my Healey block with for 4 years,
is 2-cycle engine fogging oil.  It dries thick and gooey like Cosmoline and
washes off with simple green and water or similar.  There wasn't a spot of
rust on the block, crank or head and all sat coated in plastic bags for
several years.

Spray each part liberally first, cover with a large plastic bag or wrap it
loosely with a plastic drop cloth, spray a nice fog into the bag and seal or
wrap tightly immediately. Should be good to go for years.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:16 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] storage

is Cosmoline still on the market, and would it be plausible to cover and
engine with it before long term storage.  i can remember as a youngster
helping my dad coat farm equipment with it.  we had a few drums of ww2
surplus around and used it on lots of metal things since it rained a lot in
oregon.   might work.    hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  9 19:13:18 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 18:13:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] low compression
In-Reply-To: <CD68E1F4566F42DEA4CB1B780E4A247A@PC1>
Message-ID: <636682.22707.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Brad, Does not sound serious - maybe. assuming there are no bad noises and you
have good oil pressure.

Questions:

1.  Has it ever run well before the current problem?
2.  How many miles since the so called rebuild?
3.  What are all the compressions? Should be about 150 plus for a fresh motor.
4.  If only one is low then it could be just stuck rings from prolonged
sitting - solution is wd40 et al into the cylinder for a few days etc.
5.  If all are low it could be cam timing as someone said - valves not closing
correctly.
6.  Air leak into inlet manifold, fuel starvation, et al could be the
problem.

I would suggest a very logical test sequence before taking the head off.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 12/9/09, Attean Lake Lodge <info at atteanlodge.com> wrote:

> From: Attean Lake Lodge <info at atteanlodge.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] low compression
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 11:33 AM
> Since I first started my car a couple
> of weeks ago I have just not been able
> to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I
> can keep it running
> is to hold the chokes out most all the way. The carbs were
> rebuilt by Joe
> Cuerto, plenty of fuel to them, proper fuel level in the
> bowls etc. etc. Valve
> and ignition timing dead on. I finally figured it had to be
> a vacuum problem
> so I just did a compression test...very depressing, a low
> of 100 and high of
> 125. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but had
> been completely
> rebuilt by a reputable guy who told me he did everything
> right including new
> rings, pistons, crank, valves, cam etc., he also had the
> head planed. Yes, I
> checked the clearances and they are fine, I have been able
> to run the engine
> for maybe 7 or 8 minutes at most before it sputters and
> dies. Did the
> rebuilder screw up or am I missing something here? Any
> thoughts will be much
> appreciated will I load the shotgun.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  9 19:24:05 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 18:24:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Online Mag/Early FF (NO HEALEY CONTENT)
Message-ID: <4B205BC5.2010101@comcast.net>

/7QPzZT: Permission denied

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Dec  9 19:30:24 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 19:30:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  low compression
Message-ID: <8908FAFD33F248D8BA796BD37A7A0CF4@oscar>

: RE: [Healeys] low compression

Then it is flooding to point of drowning. Now it does become a probable
vacuum leak if you need the chokes to keep it running.

frogeye at porterscustom.com


starvation problem but the (new pump, tank, line, filter is delivering a 
quart of fuel per minute to the carbs. 

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Wed Dec  9 19:59:40 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 21:59:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20091210030001.8E30F18764C@autox.team.net>

"it spent most of its life in Lake Oswego".

And it has no rust?

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Davies
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 7:32 PM
> To: 'I Erbs'; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
> 
> "was serviced by the Portland BMC dealer since delivery"
> I didn't know we still had BMC dealers working on our Healeys.
> Time warp?
> Ron
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:27 PM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
> 
> http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1499613319.html
> NFI
> willing to check out
> 
> anyone on list selling this?
> 
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rdavies1 at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  9 20:12:11 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 19:12:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Online Mag/Early FF (NO HEALEY CONTENT)
Message-ID: <4B20670B.9060408@comcast.net>

 From an entertaining magazine (might require sign-up--it's free):

http://www.windingroad.com/articles/lists/list-ten-worst-cars-for-a-blind-date/?src=Nextscreen

or

*http://tinyurl.com/yhc957f

bs
*

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  9 20:29:01 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 22:29:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock update
Message-ID: <BAY124-W33500B9D136BE350035CEDD48D0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to all that assisted.  IT NOW LOCKS!!!  When I had my shop, I would
have never taken the time to pull one apart because it would probably have
been cheaper to buy a new one, and less likely to come back. Working on my own
cars is a different story, saving the money is a good trade off for the time
spent.
What I found was the "nub" on the bottom of the barrel had broken off, and
couldn't lock.  So I drilled a small hole and made a pin to replace the "nub".
Cleaned/ lubed and presto- works great!  Thanks all.


The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=xbox+games&scope=cashback&form=MSHYCB&p
ubl=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_Shopping_Giftsforthem_cashback_1x1

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Dec  9 21:24:23 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 20:24:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Plate Balance
Message-ID: <7vpj0h$60ppss@pd3mo1so-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>

Pressure Plates are supposed to be neutral balanced.

 

Has anybody ever installed one that was not balanced and caused a vibration?

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Wed Dec  9 22:29:48 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:29:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Plate Balance
In-Reply-To: <7vpj0h$60ppss@pd3mo1so-svcs.prod.shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20091210053000.QYPO24930.nskntotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>

I've never given them an even chance, and get them balanced as a matter of
course. They always come back with either holes drilled in them or a plate
welded somewhere

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of PG
Sent: Thursday, 10 December 2009 2:24 PM
To: 'healey'
Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Plate Balance

Pressure Plates are supposed to be neutral balanced.

 

Has anybody ever installed one that was not balanced and caused a vibration?

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Dec 10 02:55:19 2009
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Eric Frenken)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:55:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] clutch interchangability
Message-ID: <002401ca797e$e22d24d0$a6876e70$@com>

Healey specialists,

the 6 cylinders started life with a 9" clutch, while on the 3000s this was
increased to 10". Sometime in 1963 (on the MK IIa) this was changed to 9.5"
(diaphragm spring type) and later in 1964 reduced to 9". I thought I had
read somewhere that the earlier (pre MK IIa) model clutches can easily be
converted to the 9.5" diaphragm spring type clutch by simply exchanging all
3 clutch components (driven plate, clutch cover and release bearing).

Lately I tried to install a new 9.5" clutch into a late (center shifter) BT7
but found that the clutch cover doesn't fit. The holes on the outer edge of
the original 10" clutch cover (which take the screws to the flywheel) are
about 11 5/8" apart (measured across the center of the clutch cover), while
these on the 9.5" cover are only about 10 5/8" apart.

My question is, do I have to change the flywheel as well and which other
"surprises" do I have to expect? Is there a clutch set I could use on all 6
cylinders?

Thanks,

Eric

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 04:23:32 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:23:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] clutch interchangability
In-Reply-To: <002401ca797e$e22d24d0$a6876e70$@com>
References: <002401ca797e$e22d24d0$a6876e70$@com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912100323h7e35110fs8f57407c0422db17@mail.gmail.com>

Eric -

The 6 cyl Flywheel will work on any 6 cyl healey, they are all more or less
identical.

With respect to the clutch, all you have to do is take the clutch cover and
flywheel to your local machine shop (where you had the flywheel surfaced)
and they can re-peg the flywheel for you.  If they know how to do flywheel
surfacing they will likely know how to repeg the flywheel.  Make sure they
balance the flywheel and cover after they repeg, so take your mount bolts
too.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the 9.5" clutch cover plate has two pegs and
the 9" clutch cover plate has three pegs.  I had it repegged on my '64 BJ8
15 years ago when you couldn't get new 9.5" clutches.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 5:55 PM, Eric Frenken <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>wrote:

> Healey specialists,
>
> the 6 cylinders started life with a 9" clutch, while on the 3000s this was
> increased to 10". Sometime in 1963 (on the MK IIa) this was changed to 9.5"
> (diaphragm spring type) and later in 1964 reduced to 9". I thought I had
> read somewhere that the earlier (pre MK IIa) model clutches can easily be
> converted to the 9.5" diaphragm spring type clutch by simply exchanging all
> 3 clutch components (driven plate, clutch cover and release bearing).
>
> Lately I tried to install a new 9.5" clutch into a late (center shifter)
> BT7
> but found that the clutch cover doesn't fit. The holes on the outer edge of
> the original 10" clutch cover (which take the screws to the flywheel) are
> about 11 5/8" apart (measured across the center of the clutch cover), while
> these on the 9.5" cover are only about 10 5/8" apart.
>
> My question is, do I have to change the flywheel as well and which other
> "surprises" do I have to expect? Is there a clutch set I could use on all 6
> cylinders?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Thu Dec 10 06:43:36 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 13:43:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <986F07B8-3C34-4E69-B81F-FCDCF38EE5A7@cox.net>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com><BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com>,
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>,
	<8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045>,
	<F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>,
	<986F07B8-3C34-4E69-B81F-FCDCF38EE5A7@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W35ACE6E5BE24C561EFDE28B88D0@phx.gbl>

Is a 'cool' cold air box substandard?  ;)



Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


> From: e-wilkins at cox.net
>

> This one looks cool:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yzsn8wk
>
> BTW, I had gone as far as making a mockup in cardboard of a cold air
> box for my triple SU Healey, but was recommended against it as it
> might starve the rear carb. I will still flow cool air to the carbs
> somehow...
>
> Wilko
> San Diego
>
> On Dec 7, 2009, at 6:56 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> > The objective is to look cool
> >
> > I Erbs
> > Sent from my iPod

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 09:05:56 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:05:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W35ACE6E5BE24C561EFDE28B88D0@phx.gbl>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com> 
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
	<8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045> 
	<F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>
	<986F07B8-3C34-4E69-B81F-FCDCF38EE5A7@cox.net> 
	<BAY112-W35ACE6E5BE24C561EFDE28B88D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <173126440912100805t4cd32a50gb990cca5433057dd@mail.gmail.com>

based the replys I have gotten, the concern is air starvation to rear carb.
Especially on tri-carb engines. Not sure why it was a good idea on the 4 cyl
cars, but the 6cyl. Maybe the carbs are closer together on the 4s. How did
they push air into the carbs on the rally cars?  They have an air vent in
the grill. I thought that fed the carbs. Again, its more of a aesthetic
thing. I think an air box looks cool. Will provide any details on what I
find out that works
cheers,

2 fenders down, 2 to go!
anyone have a spare left fender rear they need out of their garage?  Don't
mind fixing the dogleg, But mine has a ton of bondo above the swag line and
along the back side section.  Way to much to fix, plus have been unable to
locate a replacement panel for the section above the swag line. So if you
have a good section from half way back from the middle of the wheel arch,
send a photo and let me know.
John Wilson, if you are reading this. did you find anything for me in your
barn? I'll drive down this weekend. How about you Bill Bolton. There has to
be a good section left from Russ' shop....
Ira

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 5:43 AM, <robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Is a 'cool' cold air box substandard?  ;)
>
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
>
>
> > From: e-wilkins at cox.net
> >
>
> > This one looks cool:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/yzsn8wk
> >
> > BTW, I had gone as far as making a mockup in cardboard of a cold air
> > box for my triple SU Healey, but was recommended against it as it
> > might starve the rear carb. I will still flow cool air to the carbs
> > somehow...
> >
> > Wilko
> > San Diego
> >
> > On Dec 7, 2009, at 6:56 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >
> > > The objective is to look cool
> > >
> > > I Erbs
> > > Sent from my iPod
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Thu Dec 10 09:09:29 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:09:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <20091210030001.8E30F18764C@autox.team.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
	<20091210030001.8E30F18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAO9+bpvhWDFFq7qWqOl9SigBAAAAAA==@cox.net>

Perhaps Lake Oswego is frozen solid year round?
Ron
-----------------------------
"it spent most of its life in Lake Oswego".

And it has no rust?

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 10 09:13:22 2009
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:13:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Boot lock, new and old handle lock insert length
Message-ID: <65337.18013.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

On the new reproduction handle, the length of the lock insert is longer than the original lock insert. I re-keyed a lock insert to match a car owners ignition key and did not line up flush as the original.

Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott Ctiy MD  

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 09:37:49 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:37:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
Message-ID: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>

My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has disc
brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that the tags
came from a scrapped car.
If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
correct 3000?
The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
Thanks

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 09:43:59 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:43:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone
Message-ID: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.mytinyphone.com/ringtone/147811/

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Dec 10 10:40:44 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 12:40:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAO9+bpvhWDFFq7qWqOl9SigBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
	<20091210030001.8E30F18764C@autox.team.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAO9+bpvhWDFFq7qWqOl9SigBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <00ca01ca79bf$e6cd9e70$b468db50$@net>

Lake Oswego is also the name of a town.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Davies
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:09 AM
To: 'Peter Schauss'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR

Perhaps Lake Oswego is frozen solid year round?
Ron
-----------------------------
"it spent most of its life in Lake Oswego".

And it has no rust?

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 10 10:45:18 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:45:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0993DD3A-9316-4BB5-B4B6-EB017373F493@sbcglobal.net>

So what is correct, Is the car a BN4 or a BT7. There is alot of BN4s  
running around with 3000 motors installed.
On the right front shock tower on the front edge there is a chassis  
number stamped into the frame.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:37 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has  
> disc
> brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that  
> the tags
> came from a scrapped car.
> If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
> original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
> correct 3000?
> The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
> Thanks
>
> -- 
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 11:13:42 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:13:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <0993DD3A-9316-4BB5-B4B6-EB017373F493@sbcglobal.net>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
	<0993DD3A-9316-4BB5-B4B6-EB017373F493@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <173126440912101013w776d067y7d5bc9fb673f7378@mail.gmail.com>

thanks I will look for the chassis # No. BN4s came with disc brakes. This is
actually not the original body. It was purchased after a women cut me off
and short stopped in front of me. My original car was crushed, so I bought
another car without drivetrain or ID plate and transfered everything over to
the donor. so its truly a mis-matched deal. I will check for a chassis #

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 9:45 AM, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>  So what is correct, Is the car a BN4 or a BT7. There is alot of BN4s
> running around with 3000 motors installed.
> On the right front shock tower on the front edge there is a chassis number
> stamped into the frame.
>
>
>
> David Nock
>
> British Car Specialists
>
> Stockton Ca 95205
>
> 209-948-8767
>
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> .
>
> .
>
> On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:37 AM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has disc
> brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that the tags
> came from a scrapped car.
> If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
> original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
> correct 3000?
> The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
> Thanks
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>


-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 10 11:21:50 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:21:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <173126440912101013w776d067y7d5bc9fb673f7378@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
	<0993DD3A-9316-4BB5-B4B6-EB017373F493@sbcglobal.net>
	<173126440912101013w776d067y7d5bc9fb673f7378@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9C9504C4-F6D3-4C69-974A-898CA3EF6E38@sbcglobal.net>

There was a very few that came with 4 wheel disc brakes. We had one  
here in the shop back in the late 80s. There are also a lot of 100/6s  
that are out there that have installed the disc brakes from a BT7  
since it is only a bolt on deal.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 10, 2009, at 10:13 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> thanks I will look for the chassis # No. BN4s came with disc  
> brakes. This is actually not the original body. It was purchased  
> after a women cut me off and short stopped in front of me. My  
> original car was crushed, so I bought another car without  
> drivetrain or ID plate and transfered everything over to the donor.  
> so its truly a mis-matched deal. I will check for a chassis #
>
> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 9:45 AM, David Nock  
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> So what is correct, Is the car a BN4 or a BT7. There is alot of  
> BN4s running around with 3000 motors installed.
> On the right front shock tower on the front edge there is a chassis  
> number stamped into the frame.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:37 AM, I Erbs wrote:
>
>> My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it  
>> has disc
>> brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that  
>> the tags
>> came from a scrapped car.
>> If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
>> original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
>> correct 3000?
>> The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
>> Thanks
>>
>> -- 
>> I Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Dec 10 11:26:10 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:26:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] cold air box 3000
In-Reply-To: <173126440912100805t4cd32a50gb990cca5433057dd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912040853s11a3d448s5c1eb1e8a358f41c@mail.gmail.com>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BB31@s07.frakes-eng.com> 
	<01a701ca775e$6152adc0$23f80940$@net>
	<8E1686C8F2194EC4A6D02BC068D51BA8@ACM045> 
	<F7558C1F-A386-4F51-9C64-791CEFB6A50D@gmail.com>
	<986F07B8-3C34-4E69-B81F-FCDCF38EE5A7@cox.net> 
	<BAY112-W35ACE6E5BE24C561EFDE28B88D0@phx.gbl>
	<173126440912100805t4cd32a50gb990cca5433057dd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3D1A78F1-B8A3-4F17-81BF-CD0535DA19DA@cox.net>

The works cars don't have anything that "pushes" air into the carbs.  
Air is pulled in through long runner type manifolds. The obvious idea  
of the cold air box is to get cooler air than a hot engine room has.  
Engine room temps on works Healeys were lowered by the use of the wing  
vents, opened up mesh grills with special  aluminum plates that  
directed more air through the radiator and fresh air intakes on the  
sides to feed outside air into the carb area.

Wilko

On Dec 10, 2009, at 8:05 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> based the replys I have gotten, the concern is air starvation to  
> rear carb.
> Especially on tri-carb engines. Not sure why it was a good idea on  
> the 4 cyl
> cars, but the 6cyl. Maybe the carbs are closer together on the 4s.  
> How did
> they push air into the carbs on the rally cars?  They have an air  
> vent in
> the grill. I thought that fed the carbs. Again, its more of a  
> aesthetic
> thing. I think an air box looks cool. Will provide any details on  
> what I
> find out that works
> cheers,

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Thu Dec 10 11:30:13 2009
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 13:30:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Blue material for dash needed.
Message-ID: <C746A865.4052%tjmorrio@colby.edu>

Does anyone happen to have a piece of blue material big enough to cover the
center of a BJ8 dash (where heater control is) that they9d be willing to
part with?  I9d be pleased to reimburse you for it and for postage. I only
need a bit about 11 X 17 inches. I9d like to put the dash together and get
it in before doing the whole interior (and that9s a ways away). I am hopeful
that a color match to the Heritage blue color later will be close enough 
is that a reasonable assumption?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
65 BJ8 In Process

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 11:31:02 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 10:31:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
In-Reply-To: <00ca01ca79bf$e6cd9e70$b468db50$@net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAALuS/81aulAnFbSmeh2bz8BAAAAAA==@cox.net>
	<20091210030001.8E30F18764C@autox.team.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAO9+bpvhWDFFq7qWqOl9SigBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
	<00ca01ca79bf$e6cd9e70$b468db50$@net>
Message-ID: <173126440912101031l515d8664l44f9e6e1981b09@mail.gmail.com>

it was originally called skunk lake. the name was changed to attract folks
to buy land. It is now the most upscale city in Oregon.
named for Oswego, New York.
many settlers brought their home town names here.
we also have a Dallas, a Detroit and a Portland. BTW the Portland name was
picked by a coin flip the loser from Boston lost out.

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 9:40 AM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> Lake Oswego is also the name of a town.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Davies
> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:09 AM
> To: 'Peter Schauss'; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] craigs list portland, OR
>
> Perhaps Lake Oswego is frozen solid year round?
> Ron
> -----------------------------
> "it spent most of its life in Lake Oswego".
>
> And it has no rust?
>
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 10 11:38:51 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 13:38:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>

Ira, BMIHT will issue a certificate identifying the original chassis and
body number and other manufacturing details for the car that left the
factory with engine 29D/RU/H9267 (BMIHT charges a premium for doing a
reverse search on an engine or body number).  However, are you sure that the
engine is original to the chassis that it now resides in?  If not, then
making the VIN plate conform to the engine number could cause some problems
if the "true" chassis is still out there somewhere.

I am aware of a situation with a BJ8 a few years ago where the owner in
Arizona went to the DMV to register his car.  The DMV did some kind of
national search on the VIN and turned up a car in Wisconsin using the same
VIN and would not allow him to register his car until HE resolved the
conflict.  

Some DMVs are easier to convince to change a number than others, so if you
show up with your new VIN plate attached with screws the Oregon DMV may not
buy your story.

But it's your car.....

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:38 AM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question

My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has disc
brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that the tags
came from a scrapped car.
If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
correct 3000?
The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
Thanks

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 12:32:58 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 11:32:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
	<001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com>

car and engine do not belong together. no questions about that. Norm Nock
gave a me a hint to find the chassis number. I will look for it and try to
get a reg # from chassis. It would be amusing to pay the money to find out
my car is a BN4
I know I saw a list of chassis #s and what series they belong to. When I get
the number I'll look it up before I send in the money
I have  BT7 tags that belongs to a car that left the country, but do not
want to use it.I just would like to know what I own :) if its a BN4 with
uprated engine and brakes, so be it....
Ira


On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 10:38 AM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Ira, BMIHT will issue a certificate identifying the original chassis and
> body number and other manufacturing details for the car that left the
> factory with engine 29D/RU/H9267 (BMIHT charges a premium for doing a
> reverse search on an engine or body number).  However, are you sure that
> the
> engine is original to the chassis that it now resides in?  If not, then
> making the VIN plate conform to the engine number could cause some problems
> if the "true" chassis is still out there somewhere.
>
> I am aware of a situation with a BJ8 a few years ago where the owner in
> Arizona went to the DMV to register his car.  The DMV did some kind of
> national search on the VIN and turned up a car in Wisconsin using the same
> VIN and would not allow him to register his car until HE resolved the
> conflict.
>
> Some DMVs are easier to convince to change a number than others, so if you
> show up with your new VIN plate attached with screws the Oregon DMV may not
> buy your story.
>
> But it's your car.....
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:38 AM
> To: healey help
> Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
>
> My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has disc
> brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that the tags
> came from a scrapped car.
> If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
> original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
> correct 3000?
> The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
> Thanks
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 13:06:57 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Water temp/Oil pressure gauge
Message-ID: <6BD6D2B1-CF75-43A6-B051-7C72CBEFC671@gmail.com>

List, I need to pull the water temp/oil pressure gauge out of the BN1 for
repair as it's not registering any water temperature. Oil pressure is fine.

Are there any issues with disconnecting the oil pressure line? I know not to
disconnect the capillary tube on the water temp. side.

Finally, are the replacement gauges any good or better to repair the
original?

TIA,

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 10 13:30:28 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 12:30:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <327204.85399.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i agree with Steve and would leave well enough alone,  you don't want to be
charged with VIN tampering if another car shows up in the system with the same
chassis ID. 

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 12/10/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
To: "'healey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 10, 2009, 1:38 PM

Ira, BMIHT will issue a certificate identifying the original chassis and
body number and other manufacturing details for the car that left the
factory with engine 29D/RU/H9267 (BMIHT charges a premium for doing a
reverse search on an engine or body number).  However, are you sure that the
engine is original to the chassis that it now resides in?  If not, then
making the VIN plate conform to the engine number could cause some problems
if the "true" chassis is still out there somewhere.

I am aware of a situation with a BJ8 a few years ago where the owner in
Arizona went to the DMV to register his car.  The DMV did some kind of
national search on the VIN and turned up a car in Wisconsin using the same
VIN and would not allow him to register his car until HE resolved the
conflict. 

Some DMVs are easier to convince to change a number than others, so if you
show up with your new VIN plate attached with screws the Oregon DMV may not
buy your story.

But it's your car.....

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:38 AM
To: healey help
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question

My car has tags from a BN4, although the engine is a 29D and it has disc
brakes/disc wheels. I was told when I bought it 35 years ago that the tags
came from a scrapped car.
If I send in the engine # to the trust, will the certificate have an
original ID#, so I could make a new ID plate and register my car as a
correct 3000?
The engine # 29D RU  /H9267.
Thanks

--
I Erbs
Portland, OR
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec 10 14:14:08 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 22:14:08 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Water temp/Oil pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <6BD6D2B1-CF75-43A6-B051-7C72CBEFC671@gmail.com>
References: <6BD6D2B1-CF75-43A6-B051-7C72CBEFC671@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B2164A0.5080307@chello.nl>

If it is a black dial new ones can be had for about $150 or less in the 
UK. There are plenty about on ebay. A firm that appearantly bought the 
manufacturing rights is Caerbont,  http://www.caigauge.com/ . Champagne 
coloured dials are harder to get I believe.
Repair can be done by a competent restorer, but some are better than others.
Be always very carefull with the capillary, no kinks no dismanteling. 
Always fit tight to the engine and make a few loops between the last 
solid mounting from the engine to the bulkhead or wherever it is fixed 
to the body.
Kees Oudesluijs



Randy Hicks schreef:
> List, I need to pull the water temp/oil pressure gauge out of the BN1 for
> repair as it's not registering any water temperature. Oil pressure is fine.
>
> Are there any issues with disconnecting the oil pressure line? I know not to
> disconnect the capillary tube on the water temp. side.
>
> Finally, are the replacement gauges any good or better to repair the
> original?
>
> TIA,
>
> Randy

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Thu Dec 10 14:14:46 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:14:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Water temp/Oil pressure gauge
In-Reply-To: <6BD6D2B1-CF75-43A6-B051-7C72CBEFC671@gmail.com>
References: <6BD6D2B1-CF75-43A6-B051-7C72CBEFC671@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8592F31A-B778-45F1-B0EA-4F54D5DF0FD7@cgocable.ca>

Hi Randy

    I know that at Moma in Alberqueque NM they do that job with theirs
eyes close, i saw the guy did it and he knows the thing. If you
disconnect it will need a repair man to refit with welding.

Cheers

gilbert






Le 09-12-10 ` 15:06, Randy Hicks a icrit :

> List, I need to pull the water temp/oil pressure gauge out of the
> BN1 for
> repair as it's not registering any water temperature. Oil pressure
> is fine.
>
> Are there any issues with disconnecting the oil pressure line? I
> know not to
> disconnect the capillary tube on the water temp. side.
>
> Finally, are the replacement gauges any good or better to repair the
> original?
>
> TIA,
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100M
> '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as comkanuk at cgocable.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 10 14:16:10 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:16:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] pressure plate balance
Message-ID: <BAY124-W45BA2D1E0E85037806B19DD48D0@phx.gbl>

I had one that the springs were set out of balance (from new).  When you put
your foot on the clutch pedal you could feel it vibrate.  I had to take
everything back apart and found by running the engine with no gearbox attached
and the clutch installed on the flywheel, that the release plate would wobble!
I took a sharpie marker and ran a piece of wood across the gearbox (cross
ways) opening for stability, then slowly moved the sharpie forward until it
would make a "high" mark on the release plate.  After a spring adjustment I
would repeat several times until I got it near perfect.  Once together it felt
very smooth.

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
Chat with Messenger straight from your Hotmail inbox.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_4:092009

From gblack at hextrans.com  Thu Dec 10 15:28:17 2009
From: gblack at hextrans.com (Gary Black)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 14:28:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Low Compression
Message-ID: <279A85FB5C7C5843AD76468E44D1D7ED014EFB48@openwheel.hextrans.com>

I'm coming in late on this one, but in case the problem hasn't been
solved (engine runs rough, carbs must be choked), I had this same
problem recently. I had reversed two of the spark plug wires. Easy thing
to check.



> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not

> been able to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I

> can keep it running is to hold the chokes out most all the way.
...............

>

> Brad Holden

> 67 BJ8





Gary Black, AICP
President

Hexagon Transportation Consultants, Inc.
San Jose | Gilroy | Pleasanton | Marina del Rey | Phoenix

40 S. Market Street, Ste 600 | San Jose, California 95113

' 408.971.6100 | 7 408.971.6102 | www.hextrans.com



P  Please consider the environment before printing this material.

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Dec 10 15:41:56 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:41:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SU Carb Restoration/Rebuild
Message-ID: <20091210.144228.23159.47176@mailpop01.dca.untd.com>

Is anyone familiar with Paltech Technologies LLC, or Chester Gillings of
SU Carbs.com with regard to rebuilding or restoring SU carbs. Have seen
their work (pictures) on eBay and it looks good, but pictures don't tell
the whole story. TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Banking
Click here to find the perfect banking opportunity!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=rZJiAcgGLWG5Jsw3HJ7TAQAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAXeAAAAAA=

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 15:50:17 2009
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:50:17 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Blue material for dash needed.
In-Reply-To: <C746A865.4052%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
References: <C746A865.4052%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
Message-ID: <9baa446a0912101450j949aea3i7d355b027cf8796f@mail.gmail.com>

why not get the vinyl you need from heritage?
cheers,
jerry

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 12:30 PM, Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu>wrote:

> Does anyone happen to have a piece of blue material big enough to cover the
> center of a BJ8 dash (where heater control is) that they9d be willing to
> part with?  I9d be pleased to reimburse you for it and for postage. I only
> need a bit about 11 X 17 inches. I9d like to put the dash together and get
> it in before doing the whole interior (and that9s a ways away). I am
> hopeful
> that a color match to the Heritage blue color later will be close enough
> is that a reasonable assumption?
> Thanks in advance.
> Tom
> 65 BJ8 In Process
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From 57healey at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 18:30:15 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:30:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone
In-Reply-To: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0912101730i35c69465k8319bc6567b9d4b5@mail.gmail.com>

Hey that's the one I uploaded!  Enjoy

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 10:43 AM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:
> http://www.mytinyphone.com/ringtone/147811/
>
> --
> I Erbs

From scvc70 at epix.net  Thu Dec 10 19:19:26 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:19:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 seats
Message-ID: <4461D02203AE47B3919F8EC0E2419BC7@computer624080>

Work on "Cinderella" the garage-sale Healey continues, and once again I need
help from the list!

Yesterday I stripped all the upholstery from the seats, so the metal frames
can be sandblasted.  One of the car's many DPOs had put vinyl covers over the
original upholstery.  Apparently the covers were too small, so he took a
hacksaw to the "ears" on the seat backs where the pivot bolts go!  We need to
weld them back up to original contours, but have no idea how much was cut
off.

Does anyone have a bare metal 100 seatback that could be traced to give us a
pattern of the last 6 - 8 inches of the ears?


Thanks in advance,
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Dec 10 19:41:07 2009
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 18:41:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
References: <COL121-W2250C06DD0F40314BBF477A48F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00dd01ca7a0b$648cf9f0$9001a8c0@home>

Hi Richard.  I have 1960 YOM plates on my Healey.  It took a bit of doing at 
the DMV, but the Healey did NOT have them originally.  It is not necessary 
to show they were continually on the car.  What you say is (or was) correct 
for black plates (1962+), but not older.  And I think the black plates are 
now available as YOM.

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 3:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again


> Bottom line. California DMV does not want YOM plates on your car and will 
> only
> allow them if you can prove they either came off the car originally or you 
> can
> prove the first sticker (on the bottom of a fat pile of later stickers) on 
> the
> plate had the exact year your car was designed for, regardless of year 
> made.
> ie, A 64 model year needs to have a 64 sticker on the plate you submit.
> Numbers and letters embossed on the plate mean nothing.
> If others have had problems with the California DMV regardless of make of 
> the
> car, or know any one who is having a problem, please contact me at:
> tahoehealey at hotmail.com.
> I would like to start a letter writing campaign to the assembly and 
> senators
> to have the law re-defined to be interpreted as it was meant to be
> interpreted.
> Sorry to bother those who have no interest in this.
> Rich Kahn
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
> d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Dec 10 19:45:14 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:45:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0912101730i35c69465k8319bc6567b9d4b5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>
	<743b1e2f0912101730i35c69465k8319bc6567b9d4b5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <013201ca7a0b$f7894d80$e69be880$@net>

And the one I have on my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 8:30 PM
To: I Erbs
Cc: healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone

Hey that's the one I uploaded!  Enjoy

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 10:43 AM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:
> http://www.mytinyphone.com/ringtone/147811/
>
> --
> I Erbs

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Dec 10 19:53:12 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:53:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Low Compression
In-Reply-To: <279A85FB5C7C5843AD76468E44D1D7ED014EFB48@openwheel.hextrans.com>
References: <279A85FB5C7C5843AD76468E44D1D7ED014EFB48@openwheel.hextrans.com>
Message-ID: <E6D6AF440AD9436DB9277DABD8A1D200@oscar>

15-too young 36-too old 24-just right  ;>) 

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Black
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 3:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Low Compression

I'm coming in late on this one, but in case the problem hasn't been
solved (engine runs rough, carbs must be choked), I had this same
problem recently. I had reversed two of the spark plug wires. Easy thing
to check.



> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not

> been able to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I

> can keep it running is to hold the chokes out most all the way.
...............

>

> Brad Holden

> 67 BJ8





Gary Black, AICP
President

Hexagon Transportation Consultants, Inc.
San Jose | Gilroy | Pleasanton | Marina del Rey | Phoenix

40 S. Market Street, Ste 600 | San Jose, California 95113

' 408.971.6100 | 7 408.971.6102 | www.hextrans.com



P  Please consider the environment before printing this material.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 21:20:35 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 20:20:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Low Compression
Message-ID: <4b21c84f.9413f30a.52b1.79a6@mx.google.com>

LOL

Told my teenage son that method of remembering the fire order he almost fell
out of his chair laughing

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:53 PM
To: 'Gary Black' <gblack at hextrans.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Low Compression

15-too young 36-too old 24-just right  ;>)

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Black
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 3:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Low Compression

I'm coming in late on this one, but in case the problem hasn't been
solved (engine runs rough, carbs must be choked), I had this same
problem recently. I had reversed two of the spark plug wires. Easy thing
to check.



> Since I first started my car a couple of weeks ago I have just not

> been able to get to run even close to normal, in fact the only way I

> can keep it running is to hold the chokes out most all the way.
...............

>

> Brad Holden

> 67 BJ8





Gary Black, AICP
President

Hexagon Transportation Consultants, Inc.
San Jose | Gilroy | Pleasanton | Marina del Rey | Phoenix

40 S. Market Street, Ste 600 | San Jose, California 95113

' 408.971.6100 | 7 408.971.6102 | www.hextrans.com



P  Please consider the environment before printing this material.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 10 21:48:45 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 20:48:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
In-Reply-To: <00dd01ca7a0b$648cf9f0$9001a8c0@home>
References: <COL121-W2250C06DD0F40314BBF477A48F0@phx.gbl>,
	<00dd01ca7a0b$648cf9f0$9001a8c0@home>
Message-ID: <COL121-W373B276AE920ECFC6D9A10A48C0@phx.gbl>

Bruce, they were acceptable on California cars prior to 1962 models. The new
law lets the newer cars have them until the year they stopped using black
plates. The problem is that the plate MUST have the sticker on the plate(at
the bottom of the pile) consistant with the model year. So, I need to find a
pair or plates that has a white sticker ('64) on the bottom of the pile. I
found a guy who will sell me an original 64 sticker, never used but the DMV
has seen my plate with out sticker. Maybe it will fulfill the letter of the
law and they will have to give it to me.
This just sucks!

> From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] YOM again
> Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 18:41:07 -0800
>
> Hi Richard.  I have 1960 YOM plates on my Healey.  It took a bit of doing at
> the DMV, but the Healey did NOT have them originally.  It is not necessary
> to show they were continually on the car.  What you say is (or was) correct
> for black plates (1962+), but not older.  And I think the black plates are
> now available as YOM.
>
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 3:32 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] YOM again
>
>
> > Bottom line. California DMV does not want YOM plates on your car and will
> > only
> > allow them if you can prove they either came off the car originally or you
> > can
> > prove the first sticker (on the bottom of a fat pile of later stickers) on
> > the
> > plate had the exact year your car was designed for, regardless of year
> > made.
> > ie, A 64 model year needs to have a 64 sticker on the plate you submit.
> > Numbers and letters embossed on the plate mean nothing.
> > If others have had problems with the California DMV regardless of make of
> > the
> > car, or know any one who is having a problem, please contact me at:
> > tahoehealey at hotmail.com.
> > I would like to start a letter writing campaign to the assembly and
> > senators
> > to have the law re-defined to be interpreted as it was meant to be
> > interpreted.
> > Sorry to bother those who have no interest in this.
> > Rich Kahn
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
> >
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
> > d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healeybruce at roadrunner.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Dec 10 23:18:48 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 07:18:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com><001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D26144@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I am a bit
puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number there,
but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real body
number.
As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number stamped in
the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
Please correct me, if I am wrong.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von I Erbs
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 10. Dezember 2009 20:33
An: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healey help
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] heritage certificate question

car and engine do not belong together. no questions about that. Norm Nock gave
a me a hint to find the chassis number. I will look for it and try to get a
reg # from chassis. It would be amusing to pay the money to find out my car is
a BN4 I know I saw a list of chassis #s and what series they belong to. When I
get the number I'll look it up before I send in the money I have  BT7 tags
that belongs to a car that left the country, but do not want to use it.I just
would like to know what I own :) if its a BN4 with uprated engine and brakes,
so be it....
Ira

_

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Dec 11 02:00:26 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 04:00:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D26144@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com><001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com>
	<6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D26144@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca7a40$62202590$266070b0$@rr.com>

Hi, Josef -

As I mentioned previously, as far as I know the VIN/chassis number was
stamped on the shock tower only for BJ8s (and possibly for BJ7s).  See the
attached photo for an example.  There is another number stamped on a
different part of the shock tower that was applied by Jensens, and it
appears not to relate to either the chassis or body number of a car but was
used by Jensens or BMC for their own purposes.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 1:19 AM
To: eyera3 at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heritage certificate question

As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I am a bit
puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number there,
but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real body
number.
As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number stamped
in
the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
Please correct me, if I am wrong.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 30020 LABELED.JPG]

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Dec 11 02:39:48 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 04:39:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <173126440912101401k426f7efahcfca1fc6af208473@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
	<001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com> 
	<002601ca79dc$face98d0$f06bca70$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101329t1dc8d48j19fb675639ee0ec9@mail.gmail.com>
	<173126440912101401k426f7efahcfca1fc6af208473@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01ca7a45$e1a46560$a4ed3020$@rr.com>

Ira, you will get the build info on the car that left the factory with that
engine, and since you've stated that your engine is not original to your
chassis, you won't be getting any information about the chassis you actually
have.  Since you have no body number and have found no number on the shock
tower, there is no way to identify the original number of the chassis (to my
knowledge).  The most you could do is use the chassis number you would get
from BMIHT for the engine.
I think your chances are slim of finding out if that chassis number is
already being used by another car unless the DMV does a national search on
that number before allowing you to register the car.  Of course, the
BT7-I/-II registries would be a source to check to see if the VIN exists
somewhere. 
I also think you're going to get some static from DMV to changing the number
on your title anyway unless they buy the engine number on the certificate as
proof of the correct chassis identification.  Since engines are obviously
replaceable, I would be surprised if the DMV would cave in just on that
evidence.
The BT7 experts can chime in, but to my knowledge there is no place on the
chassis of 3000s where the chassis number was marked except for the shock
tower number of later cars.
 
It's just my opinion, but putting a VIN on a car you know not to have been
that number originally isn't quite kosher.  Some owner of the car in the
future is going to get an unpleasant surprise when he finds out.   I just
experienced that with a new BJ8 owner when I told him his beautiful new car
was not the VIN that he thought he had bought.  
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
 
 
 
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:01 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
 
OK, so from looking at the Anderson/moment book # 9267 was built between
march and may '60.
as stated originally, 
1`. I would like ot get the build info on my car, engine number is all I
have for a 3000.
I do have the BN4# that came with my original car (it has been parted out
after being hit) My current body and engine were mated by me over 30 years
ago. replacement body came with no markings, so I just moved the BN4 stuff
over to it. 
2. I would like to find out the actual reg # and register it accordingly.
3. Then I would like to know if anyone has that ID# on their car?
If not, then I want to reg it correctly.
 
so could there be an ID # stamped somewhere else on my BT7 body/chassis?
 
thanks for the time on this,
Ira

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec 11 04:44:17 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 12:44:17 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] heritage certificate question
In-Reply-To: <000b01ca7a45$e1a46560$a4ed3020$@rr.com>
References: <173126440912100837m48c7998fpb29dbd121da97cce@mail.gmail.com>
	<001f01ca79c8$0510fd20$0f32f760$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101132v9a7fb39v64d996395e6546a@mail.gmail.com> 
	<002601ca79dc$face98d0$f06bca70$@rr.com>
	<173126440912101329t1dc8d48j19fb675639ee0ec9@mail.gmail.com>
	<173126440912101401k426f7efahcfca1fc6af208473@mail.gmail.com>
	<000b01ca7a45$e1a46560$a4ed3020$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B223091.4070103@chello.nl>

Often British cars  do not carry a stamped chassis number, but only a 
rivetted chassis plate to the body with the number stamped on it, at 
least for the UK market. It happened on my Triumph Spitfire I brought 
back from the UK in the early 70's and it caused problems with the 
authorities here in the NL where a chassis number stamped in an integral 
part of the chassis is required by law. In the end I stamped the number 
(the same as on the chassis plate) myself.
I also have a probably illegally imported very early British parts 
Jensen Healey that was written off in an accident in the NL. To avoid 
the required transportation back to the UK or paying import duties and 
taxes here all identity: tags, number plates, chassis plates and the 
engine were removed so that it could be dumped in the NL and not be 
traced . This was sufficient as there is no stamped chassis number at 
all to be found. My other 2 JH's (one UK car and the other USA car) do 
have stamped chassis numbers.
Appearantly the USA situation can be the same as in the UK, no chassis 
number struck in an integral part of the chassis either. 
It is known that Jensen was fairly sloppy with their numbers. Numbers 
and type codes are often overstruck on e.g. Interceptors.
Perhaps the number on the suspension tower is some kind of production 
code which can be deducted to the correct chassis number?
Kees Oudesluijs

BJ8 Healeys schreef:
> Ira, you will get the build info on the car that left the factory with that
> engine, and since you've stated that your engine is not original to your
> chassis, you won't be getting any information about the chassis you actually
> have.  Since you have no body number and have found no number on the shock
> tower, there is no way to identify the original number of the chassis (to my
> knowledge).  The most you could do is use the chassis number you would get
> from BMIHT for the engine.
> I think your chances are slim of finding out if that chassis number is
> already being used by another car unless the DMV does a national search on
> that number before allowing you to register the car.  Of course, the
> BT7-I/-II registries would be a source to check to see if the VIN exists
> somewhere. 
>
> Steve Byers

From ktee20 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 05:00:52 2009
From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 23:00:52 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] club magazine
Message-ID: <5a607cf80912110400w2b4de8e7h41f6dd86dbbfa1b1@mail.gmail.com>

Received my copy of the Healey Club USA magazine here in OZ     VERY
NICE       took me 3 goes to realise it was a calender in disguise

      Which leads me to :-

Here in OZ we are a day ahead of you, how about a Down Under version showing
our correct day & date

     Which leads me to :-

A blond was flying Sydney to Melbourne
as the flight settled out she moved to a first class seat
a stewardess told her (nicely) to return to economy
- - - I AM BLOND & BEAUTIFUL & CAN DO AS I PLEASE
The head steward then approached her with the same request
- - - I AM BLOND & BEAUTIFUL & WILL SIT WHERE I LIKE
the captain then severely made the same request
- - - I AM BLOND & BEAUTIFUL & I AM STAYING HERE
The co-pilot said let me sort this, my wife is blond & I speak fluent blond
Within less than a minute the blond quietly returned to her economy seat
the captain very impressed asked what he said
I TOLD HER FIRST CLASS DID NOT GO TO MELBOURNE

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL OZ
BN1
BN2........If I ever finish them
100M.....Getting close

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Fri Dec 11 09:10:32 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:10:32 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <000f01ca7a7c$774eb260$65ec1720$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Rich,
Just a follow up re. yr. answer to my wiring loom query. I was unable to
source the barbed clip at first but a little digging led me to:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

thence to "cable fixings" and on to "cable clips". To "chassis clips". I
bought some. Price was fine; delivery prompt and the product looks fine. I
bought CC30 for both applications (BMC's ADA2657 to clip to the X brace &
BMC's 11K9181 to clip the head light wires).
I've got their catalogue now. It's got some good stuff and seems cheap.

For yr. interest, I've been looking for a "proper" old style thermostat and
came up with the units whose pics I have attached. It appears to be
identical (Rich 1 & 2) to the original (Rich 3). I've bought a couple. They
work (on the bench!), fit into the hole, and measure up against the Smith's
original which I extracted. You may be able to dig them up with the AC-Delco
reference though the box does say "Made in England" but adds that "AC-Delco
Division of General Motors..."
Simon

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Rich 3.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Rich 1.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Rich 2.jpg]

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 09:31:44 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 03:31:44 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] For Jor Armor
Message-ID: <22661775-297D-4DEC-A540-015AE6CFCEB5@gmail.com>

Hey Joe,
Please stop yourates kids from drinking in my local pub.
Give me a break please mate.
I just can't keep up with these young blokes.
But on the flip side...... They've told me a few Wollongong stories  
about you.
Everyone else - I'll publish them soon.
Once my Solicitor clears them from a personal liability perspective..,,
:-)
Geez Joe, you can't own a couple of the last ex-works
Sent from my iPhone

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 09:53:24 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 03:53:24 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: For Joe Armor
References: <22661775-297D-4DEC-A540-015AE6CFCEB5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C2060FA3-1A1E-4530-9676-3D6B6530F394@gmail.com>

Geez I hate these iPhone things.
I was just trying to draft a funny email to Joe, because I met one of  
his beat mate's sons tonight.
And then my phone sent it...
Before I was finished.
Anyway Joe. Merry Christmas. And you too Patrick.
The point was - these young kids still hold Healeys in absolute awe!
Night all.
Chris.
www.myaustinhealey.com.


Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> Date: 12 December 2009 3:31:44 AM AEDT
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: For Jor Armor
>

> Hey Joe,
> Please stop yourates kids from drinking in my local pub.
> Give me a break please mate.
> I just can't keep up with these young blokes.
> But on the flip side...... They've told me a few Wollongong stories  
> about you.
> Everyone else - I'll publish them soon.
> Once my Solicitor clears them from a personal liability  
> perspective..,,
> :-)
> Geez Joe, you can't own a couple of the last ex-works....

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Dec 11 13:02:14 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:02:14 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
Message-ID: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/11/09 9:40:25 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I am a bit
> puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number 
> there,
> but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real body
> number.
> As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number 
> stamped in
> the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
> Please correct me, if I am wrong.
> 

I also believe that David Nock is wrong on this statement. Our statement in 
The Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey, which was based on extensive 
research, is simply "The chassis number appears nowhere else [than on a plate 
screwed to the firewall] on the six-cylinder roadsters."
Gary Anderson

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 11 13:58:23 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 12:58:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>
References: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>
Message-ID: <55902798-9994-42EE-B4B4-08D87FB34D3C@sbcglobal.net>

There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or  
restored that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower  
in front of the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the  
shock plate.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 11, 2009, at 12:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/11/09 9:40:25 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I  
>> am a bit
>> puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number
>> there,
>> but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real  
>> body
>> number.
>> As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number
>> stamped in
>> the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
>> Please correct me, if I am wrong.
>>
>
> I also believe that David Nock is wrong on this statement. Our  
> statement in
> The Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey, which was based on  
> extensive
> research, is simply "The chassis number appears nowhere else [than  
> on a plate
> screwed to the firewall] on the six-cylinder roadsters."
> Gary Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Dec 11 14:04:11 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:04:11 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
Message-ID: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/11/09 12:58:35 PM, healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:


> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or restored 
> that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower in front of 
> the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the shock plate.
> 

If you say so, David; but there's no number visible on either shock tower 
on my 1959-built BN7. Is there one on your 100-6?
Gary

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 11 14:21:36 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 13:21:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
In-Reply-To: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>
Message-ID: <887382.78947.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers, My practical experience on a BJ8 reg at DMV:

My car was off the road from about 91 [when it failed smog] until 2008 when
the resto was finally done.  Here is my case history:

I wanted vanity plates.  I ordered and paid for vanity plates - 65AHLY.
But when they were ready, DMV would then not give me my plates without seeing
the car in person, so they sat on my plates ad-infinitum - several years.
Finally when the resto was finished I showed up at local DMV with the car,
their forms filled out to register an old car that had been off the road for
almost 20 years.  I had the pink in hand signed to me by prior owner.  The car
plates were of course 'lost' by now during the resto.

I drove to the line.  The DMV guy asked about the car.  I confirmed it had
been off the road for almost 20 years.  Now it needed no smog [only 73 and
later in CA].  He looked around the car.  He looked under the hood for the ID.
I pointed to the rivited ID plate on the bulkhead.  He shined his flashlight
and read the numbers to himself.  I watched in silence expecting more
questions.  It matched the ID on the pink and the form I had filled out.  He
smiled and asked if I had restored the car - I said no.  He said fine, and
signed his paper and asked me to go back inside the DMV and collect my plates.
I did.

I left the DMV with the car, my new plates, and a smile.  There was zero
intent on the part of the DNV inspector to search for a chassis number stamped
in the frame.  He had probably never seen a Healey before, and was vey happy
with the riveted label ID on the bulkhead.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 12/11/09, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>
>
> writes:
>
>
> > As chassis number on the right front shock tower was
> mentioned I am a bit
> > puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their
> production number
> > there,
> > but this is different to the real chassis number or
> even the real body
> > number.
> > As far as I can say its like this on my original 62
> BT7. The number
> > stamped in
> > the shock tower is different to body and chassis
> number.
> > Please correct me, if I am wrong.
> >
>
> I also believe that David Nock is wrong on this statement.
> Our statement in
> The Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey, which was based
> on extensive
> research, is simply "The chassis number appears nowhere
> else [than on a plate
> screwed to the firewall] on the six-cylinder roadsters."
> Gary Anderson

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Dec 11 14:51:54 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 22:51:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>
References: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D263A6@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

 In that David Nock is right:There is a number stamped on the top of the tower
> in front of the right hand front shock plate. Sometimes very hard to find,
as covered by paint.
But this number is different to the body or chassis number of the car and just
a Jensons production number.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Editorgary at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 11. Dezember 2009 22:04
An: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net; Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers

In a message dated 12/11/09 12:58:35 PM, healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:


> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or
> restored that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower
> in front of the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the shock
plate.
>

If you say so, David; but there's no number visible on either shock tower on
my 1959-built BN7. Is there one on your 100-6?
Gary
___________________________

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Dec 11 15:02:03 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:02:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>
References: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B22C15B.6040100@comcast.net>

Gary/David,
My late '61 built BT7 has a number stamped there, but it does not 
correlate to any number on the ID plate on the firewall.  The chassis 
no., engine number, and the description of the car all match the 
Heritage certificate that I have, so there is little chance that someone 
switched the ID plate in its first 11 years before I owned it.
Charlie

Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/11/09 12:58:35 PM, healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
>   
>> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or restored 
>> that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower in front of 
>> the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the shock plate.
>>
>>     
>
> If you say so, David; but there's no number visible on either shock tower 
> on my 1959-built BN7. Is there one on your 100-6?
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Dec 11 15:09:48 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:09:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
References: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>
	<55902798-9994-42EE-B4B4-08D87FB34D3C@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <64E8A04F7D9C434F9C8DB86696EC342E@LIFEBOOK>

I have also seen this number that David Nock refers to stamped into the 
shock tower leading edge, right side. However the number has no relation to 
the chassis number in any cases I've seen.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: <Editorgary at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers


> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or
> restored that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower
> in front of the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the
> shock plate.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Dec 11, 2009, at 12:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 12/11/09 9:40:25 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
>> writes:
>>
>>
>>> As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I
>>> am a bit
>>> puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number
>>> there,
>>> but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real
>>> body
>>> number.
>>> As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number
>>> stamped in
>>> the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
>>> Please correct me, if I am wrong.
>>>
>>
>> I also believe that David Nock is wrong on this statement. Our
>> statement in
>> The Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey, which was based on
>> extensive
>> research, is simply "The chassis number appears nowhere else [than
>> on a plate
>> screwed to the firewall] on the six-cylinder roadsters."
>> Gary Anderson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Dec 11 15:48:20 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:48:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
In-Reply-To: <887382.78947.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <c75.64722575.3853ff46@aol.com>
	<887382.78947.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004301ca7ab4$09834420$1c89cc60$@rr.com>

Normally (and as the cars left the factory) the VIN and body I.D. plates on
a BJ8 are attached with screws, not rivets.  I had one BJ8 owner tell me the
DMV inspector refused to register his car because the VIN plate was attached
with screws instead of with rivets as God intended.  DMVs can be really
lunkheaded sometimes, but I guess it depends on which state you happen to
live in, or even which inspector you happen to draw at a given time.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Blair
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:22 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Editorgary at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...

Listers, My practical experience on a BJ8 reg at DMV:

My car was off the road from about 91 [when it failed smog] until 2008 when
the resto was finally done.  Here is my case history...

I pointed to the rivited ID plate on the bulkhead.  He shined his flashlight
and read the numbers to himself.  I watched in silence expecting more
questions.  It matched the ID on the pink and the form I had filled out.  He
smiled and asked if I had restored the car - I said no.  He said fine, and
signed his paper and asked me to go back inside the DMV and collect my
plates.
I did.

I left the DMV with the car, my new plates, and a smile.  There was zero
intent on the part of the DNV inspector to search for a chassis number
stamped in the frame.  He had probably never seen a Healey before, and was
very happy with the riveted label

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri Dec 11 15:54:34 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:54:34 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <55902798-9994-42EE-B4B4-08D87FB34D3C@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <96AD2C083C674C8294322FBFE2F419A5@DANSTROM>

They put that number on the shock tower for the midgets who would go head
over ass trying to see the number in the engine bay.  Have a good weekend
everyone.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 2:58 PM
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers

There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or  
restored that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower  
in front of the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the  
shock plate.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 11, 2009, at 12:02 PM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/11/09 9:40:25 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> As chassis number on the right front shock tower was mentioned I  
>> am a bit
>> puzzled. As far as I know, Jensen stamped in their production number
>> there,
>> but this is different to the real chassis number or even the real  
>> body
>> number.
>> As far as I can say its like this on my original 62 BT7. The number
>> stamped in
>> the shock tower is different to body and chassis number.
>> Please correct me, if I am wrong.
>>
>
> I also believe that David Nock is wrong on this statement. Our  
> statement in
> The Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey, which was based on  
> extensive
> research, is simply "The chassis number appears nowhere else [than  
> on a plate
> screwed to the firewall] on the six-cylinder roadsters."
> Gary Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Fri Dec 11 15:56:06 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 14:56:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
References: <887382.78947.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9535035B6F514B5F8BED6CEDC63FC7CA@cardinalhealth.net>

Brings up another question.  You say your vin plate was riveted onto the 
car.  All the pictures I used for my restoration shows phillips type #4 
screws.  Which is correct?  I am sure the DMV would rather see the rivits.

Jerry
BJ8 

From neilberg at telus.net  Fri Dec 11 16:03:44 2009
From: neilberg at telus.net (Neil Trelenberg)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:03:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B22C15B.6040100@comcast.net>
References: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com>
  <4B22C15B.6040100@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5E64A2F2-8C98-4BC3-B775-B37DA0F20558@telus.net>

My 62 BT7 Tri Carb is as Charlie's below, number stamped on the shock tower
but does not correlate to the ID plate on firewall....Neil


On 2009-12-11, at 2:02 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:

> Gary/David,
> My late '61 built BT7 has a number stamped there, but it does not
> correlate to any number on the ID plate on the firewall.  The chassis
> no., engine number, and the description of the car all match the
> Heritage certificate that I have, so there is little chance that someone
> switched the ID plate in its first 11 years before I owned it.
> Charlie
>
> Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 12/11/09 12:58:35 PM, healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or restored
>>> that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower in front of
>>> the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the shock plate.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> If you say so, David; but there's no number visible on either shock tower
>> on my 1959-built BN7. Is there one on your 100-6?
>> Gary

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 17:55:11 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:55:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <5E64A2F2-8C98-4BC3-B775-B37DA0F20558@telus.net>
References: <c34.68ac283c.38540dcb@aol.com> <4B22C15B.6040100@comcast.net>
	<5E64A2F2-8C98-4BC3-B775-B37DA0F20558@telus.net>
Message-ID: <A15B4671-DB19-43A5-9955-046FC99DAA7B@gmail.com>

Nothing stamped on my tower. But it is now nice and clean

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 11, 2009, at 3:03 PM, Neil Trelenberg <neilberg at telus.net> wrote:

> My 62 BT7 Tri Carb is as Charlie's below, number stamped on the  
> shock tower
> but does not correlate to the ID plate on firewall....Neil
>
>
> On 2009-12-11, at 2:02 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
>
>> Gary/David,
>> My late '61 built BT7 has a number stamped there, but it does not
>> correlate to any number on the ID plate on the firewall.  The chassis
>> no., engine number, and the description of the car all match the
>> Heritage certificate that I have, so there is little chance that  
>> someone
>> switched the ID plate in its first 11 years before I owned it.
>> Charlie
>>
>> Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>>> In a message dated 12/11/09 12:58:35 PM, healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  
>>> writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> There have been many cars that we have replaced shock plates or  
>>>> restored
>>>> that there has been a number stamped on the top of the tower in  
>>>> front of
>>>> the shock plate. Sometimes it is right on the weld of the shock  
>>>> plate.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you say so, David; but there's no number visible on either  
>>> shock tower
>>> on my 1959-built BN7. Is there one on your 100-6?
>>> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 17:55:36 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 16:55:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
In-Reply-To: <9535035B6F514B5F8BED6CEDC63FC7CA@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <887382.78947.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<9535035B6F514B5F8BED6CEDC63FC7CA@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <C2A75CF7-FB1A-4B92-B0EE-495283A5C51F@gmail.com>

Screws

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 11, 2009, at 2:56 PM, "Jerry Costanzo"  
<grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:

> Brings up another question.  You say your vin plate was riveted onto  
> the car.  All the pictures I used for my restoration shows phillips  
> type #4 screws.  Which is correct?  I am sure the DMV would rather  
> see the rivits.
>
> Jerry
> BJ8 _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Fri Dec 11 19:00:13 2009
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 18:00:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
Message-ID: <4B22F92D.5020609@cox.net>

Here's a photo of my BJ7 frame after sandblasting. This photo is looking 
straight down from standing in front of the car. That's the right shock 
forward inboard mounting hole.

http://www.loftusdesign.net/bodynumber_lores.jpeg

Cheers,
John

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Dec 11 19:05:16 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 02:05:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?o/d_thrust_washers?=
Message-ID: <20091212020516.15150.qmail@server278.com>

is there data someplace that gives the required thickness of the o/d thrust washers.  i assume i need to replace them since if have the o/d apart and it just makes sense, but would be nice to know for sure.  hjim

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 11 20:54:48 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 19:54:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...Rivets or Screws
In-Reply-To: <004301ca7ab4$09834420$1c89cc60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <22978.97956.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Steve, I said rivets below but I did not check before writing.  I have now
checked and I have rivets with a dimple in the middle - definitely not Philips
or Cross screws. Thery look pretty old.  They were not replaced in the recent
resto.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 12/11/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, December 11, 2009, 2:48 PM
> Normally (and as the cars left the
> factory) the VIN and body I.D. plates on
> a BJ8 are attached with screws, not rivets.  I had one
> BJ8 owner tell me the
> DMV inspector refused to register his car because the VIN
> plate was attached
> with screws instead of with rivets as God intended. 
> DMVs can be really
> lunkheaded sometimes, but I guess it depends on which state
> you happen to
> live in, or even which inspector you happen to draw at a
> given time.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Robert Blair
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:22 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net;
> Editorgary at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
>
> Listers, My practical experience on a BJ8 reg at DMV:
>
> My car was off the road from about 91 [when it failed smog]
> until 2008 when
> the resto was finally done.  Here is my case
> history...
>
> I pointed to the rivited ID plate on the bulkhead.  He
> shined his flashlight
> and read the numbers to himself.  I watched in silence
> expecting more
> questions.  It matched the ID on the pink and the form
> I had filled out.  He
> smiled and asked if I had restored the car - I said
> no.  He said fine, and
> signed his paper and asked me to go back inside the DMV and
> collect my
> plates.
> I did.
>
> I left the DMV with the car, my new plates, and a
> smile.  There was zero
> intent on the part of the DNV inspector to search for a
> chassis number
> stamped in the frame.  He had probably never seen a
> Healey before, and was
> very happy with the riveted label
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 11 20:56:15 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 19:56:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
In-Reply-To: <9535035B6F514B5F8BED6CEDC63FC7CA@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <378390.34077.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jerry, As my prior mail, I do in fact have rivets - I checked.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 12/11/09, Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net> wrote:

> From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers - Calif Reg...
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, December 11, 2009, 2:56 PM
> Brings up another question.  You
> say your vin plate was riveted onto the car.  All the
> pictures I used for my restoration shows phillips type #4
> screws.  Which is correct?  I am sure the DMV
> would rather see the rivits.
>
> Jerry
> BJ8 _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 12 05:56:39 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 07:56:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
References: <4B22F92D.5020609@cox.net>
Message-ID: <001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Nice picture John, but   confused.... And sorry to beat this dead horse even 
deader.

  Is that "right side" as in passenger side?

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers


> Here's a photo of my BJ7 frame after sandblasting. This photo is looking 
> straight down from standing in front of the car. That's the right shock 
> forward inboard mounting hole.
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/bodynumber_lores.jpeg
>
> Cheers,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mkgoodman at att.net  Sat Dec 12 07:27:25 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:27:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Old photos some Healey Content
Message-ID: <000101ca7b37$3b1c0430$b1540c90$@net>

These are quite interesting shots from the 1960's.

Enjoy!

 

http://www.dctra.org/?p=689 

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sat Dec 12 10:29:52 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:29:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4B22F92D.5020609@cox.net>,
	<001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W35835A702B096539273E69B88B0@phx.gbl>

No, no, no, don't do that!!!



Passenger side can be either side depending on country ... "right" side means
right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat while facing
forward.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>
> Mark

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Dec 12 11:14:40 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 10:14:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <4B22F92D.5020609@cox.net>
	<001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <751d05480912121014j5ebb382av8cdaf81fa685921f@mail.gmail.com>

Mark,

All vehicles; car, boats, airplanes, etc... reference left (port) from right
(starboard) as you are sitting in that vehicle facing forward.

I trust everyone on the list is now sufficiently educated ;-)

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 4:56 AM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> Nice picture John, but   confused.... And sorry to beat this dead horse
> even deader.
>
>  Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign at cox.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 9:00 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>
>
>  Here's a photo of my BJ7 frame after sandblasting. This photo is looking
>> straight down from standing in front of the car. That's the right shock
>> forward inboard mounting hole.
>>
>> http://www.loftusdesign.net/bodynumber_lores.jpeg
>>
>> Cheers,
>> John
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 12 11:59:52 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 10:59:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W35835A702B096539273E69B88B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Would that be "near" side or "off" side?  he,he,he





Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 12/12/09, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
<robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM

No, no, no, don't do that!!!



Passenger side can be either side depending on country ... "right" side means
right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat while facing
forward.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>
> Mark
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From waschu2 at charter.net  Sat Dec 12 13:07:18 2009
From: waschu2 at charter.net (Wayne Schultz)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 15:07:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Numbers
Message-ID: <4B23F7F6.50608@charter.net>

Hello,

                   All three of the BJ-8"s that I have owned, had the 
the chassis number stamped on the R/H shock mount on the small vertical 
outboard face. If you replaced the shock plate you would remove the 
number. These numbers are faint and usually under the paint. Earlier 
cars I have worked on did not have the numbers.

                                                                        
Wayne

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Dec 12 13:20:05 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:20:05 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B23FAF5.7050508@chello.nl>

Of what, RHD or LHD
Kees Oudesluijs

HealeyRick schreef:
> Would that be "near" side or "off" side?  he,he,he
>
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>
> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>
>
>
> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ... "right" side means
> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat while facing
> forward.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Dec 12 17:05:13 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:05:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Carbs
Message-ID: <20091212.160525.17206.49332@mailpop03.dca.untd.com>

Would anyone have a decent, complete pair of H4 carbs? Please contact me
off the list. TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Search Marketing
Click for free info on using seach engines to expand your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=bFu63acMbM74A-yiXCxWhwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARBwAAAAA=

From healeynut at yahoo.com.au  Sat Dec 12 17:24:09 2009
From: healeynut at yahoo.com.au (Don Hardie)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 16:24:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <650097.76253.qm@web113104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Yes

Don
BN!
OZ




________________________________
From: HealeyRick
<healeyrick at yahoo.com>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>;
robertduquette at sympatico.ca
Sent: Sun, 13 December, 2009 5:59:52 AM
Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers

Would that be "near" side or "off" side?
he,he,he





Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
--- On Sat, 12/12/09, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
<robertduquette at sympatico.ca> wrote:

From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
<robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
To:
"Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
No, no, no, don't do that!!!



Passenger side can be either side depending on
country ... "right" side means
right hand side of the car as viewed from the
driver's seat while facing
forward.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD
BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>
> Mark
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
healeynut at yahoo.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive
_____________________________________________________________________________
_____
Win 1 of 4 Sony home entertainment packs thanks to Yahoo!7.
Enter now:
http://au.docs.yahoo.com/homepageset/

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 17:29:56 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:29:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B243584.6010603@comcast.net>

<< Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>

Neither, Rick !!

"Kerb side" !!!

LOL

Anon

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 12 17:32:15 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:32:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912121014j5ebb382av8cdaf81fa685921f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B22F92D.5020609@cox.net>
	<001001ca7b2a$8c316250$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<751d05480912121014j5ebb382av8cdaf81fa685921f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B24360F.3050505@justbrits.com>

<< I trust everyone on the list is now sufficiently educated >>

Nah, Curt.

See my previous post !!

LOL

Still Anon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 18:20:36 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:20:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
Message-ID: <4B244164.2090604@comcast.net>

/NvEtAv: Permission denied

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 18:23:02 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:23:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (1 of ?)
Message-ID: <4B2441F6.8060300@comcast.net>

Here's the list of parts from Russ Koch:

David R. Koch AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 PARTS

508 Cross Timbers

El Paso, TX 79932

drkoch at aol.com (915) 585-8863 (home), (575) 678-8615 (work White Sands 
Missile Range)

OEM 1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK I BT7 four-seater unless otherwise noted. 
Ship UPS. Detailed photos avail.

Item Price condition 1 = Exc., 2 = Good, 3 = Fair, 4= poor

Dash (aluminum) $120 2 Have two of them.

Grab Handle (Chrome) 22 2     

Grab Handle Estucheon 22 2 Matching plate for grab handle

Packing Block, Wood 22 2 Secures grab handle and plate to dash

Door Handle (inside) 20 2 Fits BJ8 only also used on conv. top

Chrome Surround Ring for Dash 21 2 Oval chrome ring

Radiator Horizontal Grill 95 3 Minor pitting on chrome

Top and bottom grill lip 90 2 Minor scratches

Front Fender (L&R) 470 ea. 2 Repaired, inc.bead,sprs,nts&bts,vintgemirs

Front Fender Chrome Spears 28 ea. 2 Minor scratches, no rust, dents etc.

Bonnet (hood) grill and lip 55 (set) 2 Two piece set for MK II or III 
(not MK I)

OD Switch Escutcheon (dash) 19 2 Says overdrive on it

Dummy Heater Control Panel 45 2 For cars without heaters Rare.

Door Handle 18 2 Associated parts available

Door Latch 25 2 Have four of them

Remote Control (door lever) 360 2 Rare

Tenax Fasteners 5 2 Have about 15 of them in varied condition

Steering column and steering gear box 420 2 Have two, one has little 
wear, other (2) cond

Starter 91 2 SN 25578A Date stamp May1963 (MK III)

Left Front Suspension 220 2 Assembly in good condition, hub splines worn

Distance Piece (steering col.) 43 2 Triangular shp alum. pt conn 
steering colum blts.

Splined Wheel Hub, RH 33 2 Left hand threads, Have 2. Mowog 7236

Valve Cover 49 2 OEM, fits 1958-67, have two of them

Wire Wheels 45 2 60 spoke Dunlop originals, have three

Gas Tanks 70 2-3 Have 2, inc. filler pipe, sending unit


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 18:23:46 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:23:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (2 of ?)
Message-ID: <4B244222.8030900@comcast.net>

Bonnet (hood) 190 2 No rust, have two of them

Master Cylinders, brake and clutch 28 2 Have two sets

Brake line splitter 20 2 Have two of them (part dist. brk fluid to 4 wheels)

Aluminum door surround rail (4 seater) 195 2 Complt for two cars (around 
top of cockpit)

Front and rear shrouds 760 - 400 ea. 2 Pick up in El Paso

Doors (L&R) 480 ea. 2 Lower section repaired 1972, still look OK.

Wiper motor assembly 160 2 Inc. wheel box, chrome bezel&nut, wiper arm

Rear license tail light 27 2 OEM 1955-60. No rust, dents etc.

Distributor 88 2 Vac. ad wks, use as-is or rebuild, inc speedo drv

Headlight dip switch 28 2 Fits 1955-67

Starter Solinoid 27 2 MK II, but fits 1955-67

Coil 45 2 Tested, minor dents in aluminum case

Voltage regulator 22 3 No plastic cover

Horns (matched set OEM for MK II&III) 65 (set) 2 1961 MK II not same as 
MK I, but fit 55-67

Wire wheel (60 Spoke) 45 ea. 2 Have two 15X4.5 Have five 48 spoke,1960 OEM

Headlight receptacle assem. 68 ea. 2 Have three sets compl., exc. only 
one chrome ring

Fresh Air Vent 44 2 Have two, inc. cable to dash, screen cover

Rear brake drum (ea.) 29 2 Have four of them

Rear Brake adjustors and pistons 200 2 Have two sets

Brake reservoir 48 2 Have three of them

Master Cylinder (brake) 35 2 have two sets

Master Cylinder (clutch) 35 2 have two sets

Clutch Slave Cylinder 35 2 Have one

Oil filter 33 2 Original 1960 Purolater design

Heat Shield (carb) (MKI) 29 2 Fits HD6 two carb and others, for log manif.

Rear shock Absorbers 90 pr. 2 Complete assembly inc. rear axle fittings

Exhaust Manifolds (HD6 carbs&log man.) 65 (set) 2 Good cond. except 
several studs broken

Rear Axle 160 2 Brake drums, adjusters, etc. avail. Very heavy.


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 18:24:14 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:24:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (3 of 3)
Message-ID: <4B24423E.7080204@comcast.net>

-TRANSMISSION PARTS (MK I) - - 4 sp. side shift, MK I, fit 1955-62 trans

First&Sec. speed. Fork&Rod 120 1 little or no wear evident

3rd&4th sp. fork&rod 120 1  

Reverse fork&rod 120 1  

Laygear (planetary) inc. layshaft and spacer 195 2 Worn reverse gear, 
others minor wear

Control lever and shaft 120 2 Minor wear on selector bearing surface

First motion shaft&gears 175 2 no wear

Shift lever (long throw, MK I bent-arm type)120 2 Chrome flaked on 
undrside few places

Tran. side cover 62 2 No rust, dents etc.

Tran. Case 89 2 No rust, dents etc.

-CLUTCH HOUSING 260 1 No corrosion ot dents, inc. fork ass.

-OVERDRIVE complete 1961 top shift 590 1 Only 40 K mi. and litt wr SN 
22/3087/000680

-DISASSEMBLED OVERDRIVE (MK I) ask prices 1-4 Most parts available. Most 
OD parts fit 1955-67

Overdrive Cut Out Switch 35 2 Goes on firewall

Overdrive Relay 42 2 Goes on firewall

Side shift OD adapter plate 65 1 Adapts LaycDNrm OD to fit 1955-62 sd 
shft trn.

-ENGINE PARTS ask prices 1-4 Three engines, two partially disassembled

Heater Control Tap (Valve) 55 1 Have 2,demand item as brass lever easily 
broken

Engine Drain Tap (Valve) 48 1 Same as above

Side Cover (front) (3 avail.) 65 2 Remaining two side covers also avail. 
$28 ea.

Flywheel 58 2 Gears on rim look good

Rocker Arm Assembly 80 2-3 Moderate wear evident

Blocks (3 avail.) 250 2-3 Mod. wear on two blks, 3rd blk-cylinder wal scor

Camshaft 85 2-3 Mod wear

Crankshaft (3 avail.) 290 2-3 Mod wear

Cylinder Heads (2 avail.) 130 2-3 One OK, valves burned on other

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 18:27:52 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:27:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Addendum
Message-ID: <4B244318.8020209@comcast.net>

/Ddl8ZU: Permission denied

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Dec 12 18:34:15 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:34:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B243584.6010603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091212193415.NR7I6.21565.root@ispmxfep12-z01>

The "kerb" side can be either side----------------LOL--VBG---VVBG
---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
<< Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>

Neither, Rick !!

"Kerb side" !!!

LOL

Anon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 19:30:55 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:30:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts (second attempt)
Message-ID: <4B2451DF.9030000@comcast.net>

Folks,

A while back I forwarded some info to the List from a gentleman in Texas 
who had a bunch of Healey parts for sale.  He was swamped with inquiries 
but was grateful because he has two kids that just graduated from 
college--one is a cancer researcher who already has made a significant 
find--and has big loans to pay off.

Anyway, he found more parts.  He sent me photos of a shroud, two front 
and one rear wing, a starter and a generator, a complete steering shaft, 
windshield wipers, a couple of wire wheels, a pair of original horns and 
many other parts, all from a MkI and MkII BT7.  Since we can't send 
attachments you'll need to contact him directly (I'll try to send his 
list in subsequent emails):

David R. Koch
508 Cross Timbers Ct.
El Paso, TX 79932
 
(915) 585-8863
 
drkoch at aol.com <mailto:drkoch at aol.com>


He goes by 'Russ.'

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 19:32:52 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:32:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Addendum try 2
Message-ID: <4B245254.9080802@comcast.net>

Seems like the mail server doesn't like any HTML or rich text.

More info on the cars, from Russ:


Both cars are BT7,s.  One, a MKI, came off the assembly line in Dec. 
'60.  The other, a very early top shift MK II came off the assembly line 
11/61.  Not mentioned in the parts list, but both frames (rusted 
badly under the seats but progressively less as you go forward past the 
firewall)  but otherwise OK are also for sale.  Anyone willing to come 
down here and pick them up can have them both for $650.oo.  As-is.  Both 
are pretty well stripped down, but one still has the rear springs and 
differential, shocks etc., while the other still has the steering column 
and the left front suspension on it.  Would really like to get both 
frames out of my garage.  I know the history of the MKI quite well as 
I've owned it since 1967.  Bought it on Guam while in the Air Force, 
cost my buddy and me 500 bucks.

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 21:11:04 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 22:11:04 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Addendum try 2
In-Reply-To: <4B245254.9080802@comcast.net>
References: <4B245254.9080802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B246958.2090908@comcast.net>

<<Seems like the mail server doesn't like any HTML or rich text. >>

YEP, Bob !!

" plain " text only.

Me

From healeydoc at verizon.net  Sat Dec 12 22:13:02 2009
From: healeydoc at verizon.net (healeydoc at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:13:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Carbs
Message-ID: <lodv4chtylhywym619h45uns.1260681182209@email.android.com>

Yes we have some good used carbs

David Nock

dwflagg <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:

>Would anyone have a decent, complete pair of H4 carbs? Please contact me
>off the list. TIA.
>
>Doug
>____________________________________________________________
>Search Marketing
>Click for free info on using seach engines to expand your business.
>http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=bFu63acMbM74A-yiXCxWhwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARBwAAAAA=
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as healeydoc at verizon.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Sun Dec 13 06:56:32 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 08:56:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net>

63ahbj7 wrote:
<< Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>
 >
 > Neither, Rick !!
 > "Kerb side" !!!

Shouldn't that be Kerb side or Curb side?

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Dec 13 08:08:02 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:08:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B250352.5010002@chello.nl>

Is that left or right?
Kees Oudesluijs

Kent McLean schreef:
> 63ahbj7 wrote:
> << Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>
> >
> > Neither, Rick !!
> > "Kerb side" !!!
>
> Shouldn't that be Kerb side or Curb side?

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 09:32:11 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 08:32:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B250352.5010002@chello.nl>
References: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net> <4B250352.5010002@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <9F98D6FE-3B20-46AF-A314-1582B699DE0F@gmail.com>

Port or starboard?

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 13, 2009, at 7:08 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Is that left or right?
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Kent McLean schreef:
>> 63ahbj7 wrote:
>> << Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>
>> >
>> > Neither, Rick !!
>> > "Kerb side" !!!
>>
>> Shouldn't that be Kerb side or Curb side?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Dec 13 09:45:41 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:45:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <9F98D6FE-3B20-46AF-A314-1582B699DE0F@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net> <4B250352.5010002@chello.nl>
	<9F98D6FE-3B20-46AF-A314-1582B699DE0F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B251A35.6030402@chello.nl>

a.i.
Kees Oudesluijs

> Port or starboard?
>
> I Erbs
>
>> Is that left or right?
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>>
>>> << Would that be "near" side or "off" side? >>
>>> >
>>> > Neither, Rick !!
>>> > "Kerb side" !!!
>>>
>>> Shouldn't that be Kerb side or Curb side?

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sun Dec 13 11:04:58 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:04:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Addendum try 2
In-Reply-To: <4B246958.2090908@comcast.net>
References: <4B245254.9080802@comcast.net>,<4B246958.2090908@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W26F3F76DF7FD881274E341B88A0@phx.gbl>

The part that I don't get, is that even though you used plain text, it is
still from "healey-bounces" on behalf of you.

I use rich text usually, because it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )




> Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 22:11:04 -0600
> From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Addendum try 2
>
> <<Seems like the mail server doesn't like any HTML or rich text.>>
>
> YEP, Bob !!
>
> " plain " text only.

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Sun Dec 13 11:08:08 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:08:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <20091212193415.NR7I6.21565.root@ispmxfep12-z01>
References: <4B243584.6010603@comcast.net>,
	<20091212193415.NR7I6.21565.root@ispmxfep12-z01>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W2545B69D8198F20DCB2D19B88A0@phx.gbl>

I'm not sure about that!  I think that the kerb side might be on the other
side of the pond and the curb side is on this side of it.  ;)


Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada


----------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:34:15 -0600
> From: tomfelts at windstream.net
>
> The "kerb" side can be either side----------------LOL--VBG---VVBG
>
> ---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> << Would that be "near" side or "off" side?>>
>
> Neither, Rick !!
>
> "Kerb side" !!!
>
> LOL

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 13 12:29:42 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:29:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <71450.41703.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <839163.76355.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Or, is it 'off side' or 'leg side'?

:-)

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sat, 12/12/09, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 10:59 AM
> Would that be "near" side or "off"
> side?  he,he,he
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>
> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>
>
>
> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
> "right" side means
> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
> while facing
> forward.
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>
> > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
> >
> > Mark
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Dec 13 13:03:16 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:03:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
References: <839163.76355.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0DBDDCB274DB476283B4D67E8EEE380B@LIFEBOOK>

Just stop it!!!!!!!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>; <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>; 
"HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers


> Or, is it 'off side' or 'leg side'?
>
> :-)
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 10:59 AM
>> Would that be "near" side or "off"
>> side?  he,he,he
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>
>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>
>>
>>
>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>> "right" side means
>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>> while facing
>> forward.
>>
>> Robert Duquette
>> Ottawa ON Canada
>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>>
>> > From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>> >
>> > Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>> >
>> > Mark
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sales at justbrits.com  Sun Dec 13 14:36:52 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:36:52 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Addendum try 2
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W26F3F76DF7FD881274E341B88A0@phx.gbl>
References: <4B245254.9080802@comcast.net>,<4B246958.2090908@comcast.net>
	<BAY112-W26F3F76DF7FD881274E341B88A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B255E74.2040505@justbrits.com>

<< The part that I don't get, is that even though you used plain text,
it is still from "healey-bounces" on behalf of you. >>

That is just the method that MM uses, RD.

Look at the "source" for a 9issa Post <G> !!  Same thing.
Or Spridgets at autox.team.net.

It CAN be altered but with a LOT [of PITA] WORK in
the MM code.  Like I said, PITA <G> !

From sales at justbrits.com  Sun Dec 13 14:38:52 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:38:52 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.8792.1260671598.11771.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4B24F290.5000202@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B255EEC.9070107@justbrits.com>

<< Shouldn't that be Kerb side or Curb side? >>

That would be a 'Pond' issue, Kent !!!

LOL

That said, I AM with Rich C. = "STOP IT"  <G> !!

From pennell at cox.net  Sun Dec 13 15:00:00 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:00:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
Message-ID: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>

Listers,

I have been moving around several AC to DC power supplies for a long time now.  I can no longer identify what they go to and wish to get rid of them.  Is there any any useful/environmentally friendly place they can go?  I hate to just send them to a landfill if they can be put to use.

Keith Pennell

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Dec 13 15:57:56 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 14:57:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
In-Reply-To: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
References: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
Message-ID: <4B257174.4040300@comcast.net>

Some recyclers will take them.  Have a feeling they end up in a river in 
China anyway, but at least you tried.

bs


pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have been moving around several AC to DC power supplies for a long time now.  I can no longer identify what they go to and wish to get rid of them.  Is there any any useful/environmentally friendly place they can go?  I hate to just send them to a landfill if they can be put to use.
>
> Keith Pennell
> _______________________________________________
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Dec 13 16:02:13 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:02:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
In-Reply-To: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
References: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
Message-ID: <02f901ca7c48$4f51a240$edf4e6c0$@net>

Are these the ones that are used for battery chargers, etc. If so, most
communities have a recycling program that usually is listed in the telephone
book.

As a rule, whenever I purchase an item that has one of these converters, I
use my Dymo label maker and paste a label on it so that I know what it is
for when I need to use it 6 months or so later.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of pennell at cox.net
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 5:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey

Listers,

I have been moving around several AC to DC power supplies for a long time
now.  I can no longer identify what they go to and wish to get rid of them.
Is there any any useful/environmentally friendly place they can go?  I hate
to just send them to a landfill if they can be put to use.

Keith Pennell
_______________________________________________

From linsley46 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 17:45:32 2009
From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 20:45:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
Message-ID: <d3c477d10912131645j32582c0eo563ae37a57a0a413@mail.gmail.com>

I am restoring a very early BN7 MK II ( maybe the 3rd/4th one made) and I
decided to try to make this a "gold" car -  I probably need to have my head
examined for starting this but I want to finish it as close as possible to
the way it came from the factory.  I have gotten lots of information from
Rich Chrysler and others but have been unsuccessful in getting in any
information from other members of the concours committee.  So I thought I
would try a broadcast to the group.

I would appreciate hearing from owners of BN7 MKIIs who have pictures of
gold cars and would be willing to share information that will help me get
this car right.  I would certainly like to hear from anyone that can help me
make sure what I am doing is as correct as possible - understanding that is
often hard to define - especially with these "transition" cars.  Please
contact me directly if you are interested in sharing you knowledge and
experience with these unique cars.

Thanks,
John

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 18:01:23 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:01:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
Message-ID: <4b258e23.9613f30a.0835.ffff89f6@mx.google.com>

Try a local high school science class  . Ifthey work

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 2:57 PM
To: pennell at cox.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey

Some recyclers will take them.  Have a feeling they end up in a river in
China anyway, but at least you tried.

bs


pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have been moving around several AC to DC power supplies for a long time
now.  I can no longer identify what they go to and wish to get rid of them.
Is there any any useful/environmentally friendly place they can go?  I hate to
just send them to a landfill if they can be put to use.
>
> Keith Pennell
> _______________________________________________
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sun Dec 13 18:58:33 2009
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 20:58:33 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Restoration Shop in Southern California
Message-ID: <c75.64aa74a1.3856f5c9@aol.com>

Does anyone have a recommendation for a Healey restoration shop in Southern 
 California?  I'm especially concerned that the shop can get the car's  
aluminum panels back to factory contours.  
 
Bill Wilkman
BT7

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Dec 13 19:30:01 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:30:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Restoration Shop in Southern California
In-Reply-To: <c75.64aa74a1.3856f5c9@aol.com>
References: <c75.64aa74a1.3856f5c9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B25A329.1090706@comcast.net>

Not sure if it qualifies as 'southern California,' but you could do 
worse than:

http://www.absolutelybritish.org/


bs



Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a Healey restoration shop in Southern 
>  California?  I'm especially concerned that the shop can get the car's  
> aluminum panels back to factory contours.  
>  
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 21:37:11 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:37:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Restoration Shop in Southern California
In-Reply-To: <4B25A329.1090706@comcast.net>
References: <c75.64aa74a1.3856f5c9@aol.com>
  <4B25A329.1090706@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912132037i5af9ac73reb6b0f554b8cf4e5@mail.gmail.com>

Them thar's sum fancy pants fuel injectars

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 10:30 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Not sure if it qualifies as 'southern California,' but you could do worse
> than:
>
> http://www.absolutelybritish.org/
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Wilkmanracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for a Healey restoration shop in
>> Southern  California?  I'm especially concerned that the shop can get the
>> car's  aluminum panels back to factory contours.   Bill Wilkman
>> BT7

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 14 05:16:51 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 07:16:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
References: <d3c477d10912131645j32582c0eo563ae37a57a0a413@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca7cb7$51c7fa00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

The  Anderson/ Moment Restoration book would be a must have for you.

I hope you can
bring yourself to making this a nice driver too rather than just a piece of 
eye candy.  Why stress
yourself out over all the little details if you can't enjoy it at the end of 
the project.

Sorry to say that there are many mods that make our cars much more enjoyable 
to drive than what the
factory offered.

But if your going for a top dollar resale baby then originality is important 
to a lot of auction jockies.

Hope to see it on the road some day under its own power.

Good Luck,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John McElrath" <linsley46 at gmail.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 7:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII


>I am restoring a very early BN7 MK II ( maybe the 3rd/4th one made) and I
> decided to try to make this a "gold" car -  I probably need to have my 
> head
> examined for starting this but I want to finish it as close as possible to
> the way it came from the factory.  I have gotten lots of information from
> Rich Chrysler and others but have been unsuccessful in getting in any
> information from other members of the concours committee.  So I thought I
> would try a broadcast to the group.
>
> I would appreciate hearing from owners of BN7 MKIIs who have pictures of
> gold cars and would be willing to share information that will help me get
> this car right.  I would certainly like to hear from anyone that can help 
> me
> make sure what I am doing is as correct as possible - understanding that 
> is
> often hard to define - especially with these "transition" cars.  Please
> contact me directly if you are interested in sharing you knowledge and
> experience with these unique cars.
>
> Thanks,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 14 09:57:54 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:57:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <839163.76355.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <839163.76355.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1094C02-C3EB-4707-9DBE-591379A770B0@sbcglobal.net>

No you all have it wrong its the HOT side and not so HOT side


On Dec 13, 2009, at 11:29 AM, Robert Blair wrote:

> Or, is it 'off side' or 'leg side'?
>
> :-)
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 10:59 AM
>> Would that be "near" side or "off"
>> side?  he,he,he
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Sat, 12/12/09, robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>
>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>
>>
>>
>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>> "right" side means
>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>> while facing
>> forward.
>>
>> Robert Duquette
>> Ottawa ON Canada
>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>>
>>> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> Is that "right side" as in passenger side?
>>>
>>> Mark
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Dec 14 10:04:02 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:04:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] So Cal Healey restorers
Message-ID: <000501ca7cdf$725a6b40$570f41c0$@com>

Bill Wilkman  wrote:

 

>>Does anyone have a recommendation for a Healey restoration shop in
Southern 
>>California?  I'm especially concerned that the shop can get the car's  
>>aluminum panels back to factory contours.  



Two top restorers in So Cal: Kurt Tanner in Ontario and Tom Rocke at Healey
Lane in Norco.

 

Absolutely British (Eric Grunden) is in Santa Maria.

 

Don't have contact info - Google ought to work.

--

 

Steve Gerow

Pasadena, CA, USA

BN6

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 14 10:23:43 2009
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:23:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
Message-ID: <878976.27114.qm@web32908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If you're going for gold I would suggest buying the Concours Guidlines from:
 
Mike Osipik
39 E. 556h Street
Kansas, City MO 64113-1265
(816) 333-0526
E-mail: mikeosipic at earthlink.ner
 
Mike distributes the Concours Standard for
the Concours Committee.  Roger Moment is the Chairman, Technical Standards:
(Big Healeys).  Rmoment at aol.com They are the people that can best advise you
on the proper path to the Gold Level Rating for your car.
 
I have judged a
few BN7 MkII Tricarbs and own one myself.  The Guidlines are published by the
Concours Committee and are the standards that are used to judge your car.  It
contains the Inspection Sheets that are used to Judge your car.  Just take the
inspections sheets and go thru them Item by Item and make sure your car is up
to those standards.  This will get you closer to getting a Gold Level Rating
than any restoration book.  Restoration books are also helpful but are not the
complete answer.  Talk to Mike to make sure you get the latest Standards. 
They do change slightly from year to year as the judges encounter items that
appear on original cars that might differ slightly from the Standards.  If you
follow the guidelines faithfully you can give yourself a good chance of a Gold
Level Rating.  I would suggest attending an event that provides Concours
Judgeing and watch a car being Judged.  Take lots of Pictures and talk to
people that
 have had their cars judged.  It is very time consuming and expensive so you
want to do it right the first time.  I've seen cars that have been restored by
supposed experts that don't receive high points because they didn't pay
attention to the published Standards.  If you don't do the restoration
yourself make sure that who ever does it checks off each item on
the inspection sheet to your approval.
 
Hope this helps
Ron  

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Dec 14 10:30:36 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:30:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca7cb7$51c7fa00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <d3c477d10912131645j32582c0eo563ae37a57a0a413@mail.gmail.com>
	<000c01ca7cb7$51c7fa00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <006d01ca7ce3$268ff730$73afe590$@net>

You can also get a copy of the Concourse guidelines at:

http://www.healeyclub.org/concours.aspx

Photos of restorations in progress are also on my site.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 7:17 AM
To: John McElrath; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII

The  Anderson/ Moment Restoration book would be a must have for you.

I hope you can
bring yourself to making this a nice driver too rather than just a piece of
eye candy.  Why stress
yourself out over all the little details if you can't enjoy it at the end of

the project.

Sorry to say that there are many mods that make our cars much more enjoyable

to drive than what the
factory offered.

But if your going for a top dollar resale baby then originality is important

to a lot of auction jockies.

Hope to see it on the road some day under its own power.

Good Luck,   Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "John McElrath" <linsley46 at gmail.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 7:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII


>I am restoring a very early BN7 MK II ( maybe the 3rd/4th one made) and I
> decided to try to make this a "gold" car -  I probably need to have my
> head
> examined for starting this but I want to finish it as close as possible to
> the way it came from the factory.  I have gotten lots of information from
> Rich Chrysler and others but have been unsuccessful in getting in any
> information from other members of the concours committee.  So I thought I
> would try a broadcast to the group.
>
> I would appreciate hearing from owners of BN7 MKIIs who have pictures of
> gold cars and would be willing to share information that will help me get
> this car right.  I would certainly like to hear from anyone that can help
> me
> make sure what I am doing is as correct as possible - understanding that
> is
> often hard to define - especially with these "transition" cars.  Please
> contact me directly if you are interested in sharing you knowledge and
> experience with these unique cars.

From buhler at memphisassociates.com  Mon Dec 14 10:56:13 2009
From: buhler at memphisassociates.com (Jon Buhler)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:56:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Trunk Restoration
Message-ID: <c9398f98a6dd4f50b3be509b38949cc8@memphisassociates.com>

My next project is to restore the trunk area on my BJ8.  Would any of you have
photos of this process on your Healey?  Thanks for your help.

Jon

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Mon Dec 14 11:27:17 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 13:27:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
In-Reply-To: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
References: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0912141027k371c8585p682985cd3d2601f4@mail.gmail.com>

Try selling them on Craigslist or Ebay cheaply.   Another good sink is
a local HAM radio club.   Someone is always looking for parts, and
these guys know what to do and how to do it safely.

- Tom

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Mon Dec 14 13:10:32 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:10:32 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
Message-ID: <23789767.1260821432898.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

>John,
>
>I agree with the others on doing your research.  Get the Anderson Moment restoration book and get the latest concours guidelines.
>
>You have to ask yourself why do you want a gold level concours Healey.  What is your ultimate goal here?  Earning gold recognition for a restoration is a great accomplishment in itself.  It costs much more time and money for the restoration because of sourcing the correct everything.  
>
>As a BN7 Concours judge at Conclave 2007 in Vermont, I (and our team) examined everything and every detail.  it took about 3 hours.  We found some infractions here and there but the big one on this BN7 was loose spokes.  That was the biggest ding. I think they were 1 point each.
>
>However, as stated by others already, there are many more enhancements to driveability and comfort available now too.  
>
>My BN7, which won Best of Show, at Conclave 2007 in Vermont, is close but has many enhancements. I followed the British Motor Heritage Certificate build specs exactly.  She now has a 3.54 rearend, 28% OD, XM radio, stainless steel heat shield over muffler, ss exhaust, flex fan, chrome / ss 72 spoke wheels, 195/70/15 radials, grade 8 bolts on suspension and motor mounts, stainless screws and bolts in places, base coat/clear coat paint, Colorado Red paint below swag line, polished cockpit trim, non concours Heritage carpet, non standard insulation, polished dashpots, K&N filters, spin on oil filter, Colorado Red factory hardtop and other assorted fasteners that are not correct.  
>
>See the restoration photos on John Sims site (thanks John for your informative site). Mine was restored by me and others in the Atlanta AHCA in just 20 months.  The intent was an outstanding BN7 with some enhancements for comfort and driveability.  The day after winning Best of Show in Vermont, I was in the Gymkhana much to the dismay of others at the event.  (I won 1st place in my gymkhana class too)
>
>My point is: I think they are made to be driven and enjoyed.  
>
>Decide what you want and go for it.
>
>This is a great resource for advice.  Use your local club and its members.  There is a wealth of knowledge at your disposal.  You are on the right track in asking questions now.
>
>You can contact me off list for more details.
>
>Cheers,
>
>John Homonek
>1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 14 13:13:26 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:13:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] looking for Russ Thompson
Message-ID: <173126440912141213o2a3ccd25n76533030170f65ee@mail.gmail.com>

anyone have contact info for russ thompson from austin healey enterprises in
reseda,ca?
Just wondering how he was doing.
I used to work for him and he helped me build my car.
please reply off list
eyera3 at gmail.com
-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR.

From sales at justbrits.com  Mon Dec 14 16:20:18 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:20:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <23789767.1260821432898.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <23789767.1260821432898.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B26C832.4060401@justbrits.com>

John H, I am ASHAMED of you.  The ONLY thing in your
post that has a iota of sense is:

<quote>

My point is: I think they are made to be driven and enjoyed. 

</quote>

So you ARE saying that DMH made & sold cars BUT
NOT to be 'driven' NOR 'enjoyed' ?!?!?

YOU have been around long enough that you should
have met Rich Chrysler by now, I hope ??

What is the tacit 'motto' of the Concours Committee??

I am sorry but as one of the earliest backers of Rich
and Gary in forming The Concours Committee and of
accepting their Guidelines I am MORE then aware that
their ONLY goal was to restore cars back to "as they
were built" AND be DRIVEN AND ENJOYED !!
 
Folks that take the view that a "Level" car is to be put
up in a museum or to become a Trailer Queen have a
ZERO concept of Concours.

I have no idea of how many "Level" cars I have seen
Rich drive THOUSANDS of miles to attend events.
Did you go to Conclave '88 in Shangri-la, OK where
Rich had an example  ??  That he DROVE from
Ontario, CANADA !!!!

Oh I forgot, Rich doesn't DRIVE nor ENJOY "Level"
restored Healeys.  My bad.

Ed
'63 AH BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STANDARD
[NOT hiding behind antiques ones] ILL plates   AH BJ 7   )
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
(35+ years).
Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA

Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  John McElrath, PLEASE soldier and if there is ANY-
THING I may assist you with, please feel free to ask.
GREAT Luck with your project !!!

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Mon Dec 14 16:43:34 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:43:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
Message-ID: <13090490.1260834214835.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Ed,

????
Thanks
No
Yes
Don't know
No

????

John Homonek

-----Original Message-----
>From: "Sales at \" Just Brits \"" <sales at justbrits.com>
>Sent: Dec 14, 2009 6:20 PM
>To: John H <bn7 at mindspring.com>
>Cc: linsley46 at gmail.com, Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
>
>John H, I am ASHAMED of you.  The ONLY thing in your
>post that has a iota of sense is:
>
><quote>
>
>My point is: I think they are made to be driven and enjoyed. 
>
></quote>
>
>So you ARE saying that DMH made & sold cars BUT
>NOT to be 'driven' NOR 'enjoyed' ?!?!?
>
>YOU have been around long enough that you should
>have met Rich Chrysler by now, I hope ??
>
>What is the tacit 'motto' of the Concours Committee??
>
>I am sorry but as one of the earliest backers of Rich
>and Gary in forming The Concours Committee and of
>accepting their Guidelines I am MORE then aware that
>their ONLY goal was to restore cars back to "as they
>were built" AND be DRIVEN AND ENJOYED !!
> 
>Folks that take the view that a "Level" car is to be put
>up in a museum or to become a Trailer Queen have a
>ZERO concept of Concours.
>
>I have no idea of how many "Level" cars I have seen
>Rich drive THOUSANDS of miles to attend events.
>Did you go to Conclave '88 in Shangri-la, OK where
>Rich had an example  ??  That he DROVE from
>Ontario, CANADA !!!!
>
>Oh I forgot, Rich doesn't DRIVE nor ENJOY "Level"
>restored Healeys.  My bad.
>
>Ed
>'63 AH BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STANDARD
>[NOT hiding behind antiques ones] ILL plates   AH BJ 7   )
>Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
>(35+ years).
>Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
>
>Please visit MY site at:
>www.justbrits.com
>
>PS:  John McElrath, PLEASE soldier and if there is ANY-
>THING I may assist you with, please feel free to ask.
>GREAT Luck with your project !!!

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 14 17:16:53 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:16:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ8 Trunk Restoration
In-Reply-To: <c9398f98a6dd4f50b3be509b38949cc8@memphisassociates.com>
References: <c9398f98a6dd4f50b3be509b38949cc8@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W131FE982C2FEBF5D7B24DC8880@phx.gbl>

From: haywoodone at hotmail.com
To: buhler at memphisassociates.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 Trunk Restoration
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:15:40 -0500



Jon,

I have pictures of my boot floor, frame extensions, and rear hoop replacement
as well as original unmolested (except by rust that is) shots with most of the
proper fittings in view.  I will send them in several attachments as I can
only send out maybe 5 or 6 at a time from Hotmail.  They should give you a
good idea of what should be done.

George Haywood,
'65 bj8



> From: buhler at memphisassociates.com
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Trunk Restoration
>
> My next project is to restore the trunk area on my BJ8. Would any of you
have
> photos of this process on your Healey? Thanks for your help.
>
> Jon
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Dec 14 17:29:21 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:29:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Information needed on BN7 MkII
Message-ID: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>

 Some of the replies to John's request for advice and details just make me
 shake my head.

 I have always aimed Healey restoration toward building potentially Gold
 level winning cars. But these cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed from
 the first mile they're back on the road. A "concours car" simply means the
 owner has chosen to have it evaluated in a recognized National Concours
 event. It doesn't mean it has to be a different spec car than when it was
new. It's completely up to the owner whether his car is entered into a
 Concours event or not.

 What I'm trying to say is that if a fellow builds his car to be as exact a
 specification as it was when it was sold new, it is extremely driveable, 
and
 why shouldn't it be? It was surely driveable back then! I have built and
 driven freshly restored Healeys hundreds, even thousands of miles to be
 judged, got the Gold, and proceeded to drive them elsewhere and eventually
 home again. A properly and well built Healey, done to exactly original 
specs
 is a trustworthy and dependable car.

 Why discorage the exactness the owner is trying to achieve and replace it
 with advice that takes him away from his goal?

 Rich Chrysler

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 14 17:54:03 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 16:54:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys]  Chassis Numbers
Message-ID: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and a
port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like they
are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on the
ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
Patrick
 
 
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>
>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>
>>
>>
>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>> "right" side means
>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>> while facing
>> forward.
>>
>> Robert Duquette
>> Ottawa ON Canada
>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 14 18:25:56 2009
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:25:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <tbpdi5t5adecma32qfbs6jqbjpni19vtoc@4ax.com>

Amen to all you said, Rich.

-Roland

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:29:21 -0500, you wrote:

:: Some of the replies to John's request for advice and details just make me
:: shake my head.
::
:: I have always aimed Healey restoration toward building potentially Gold
:: level winning cars. But these cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed from
:: the first mile they're back on the road....

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 14 19:18:55 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:18:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone
In-Reply-To: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912100843k18926ef6p92efc88a2b89113d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W31166603CAFEBF5321D23AA4880@phx.gbl>

I can down load the ring tone to phone but I cannot set it as a ring tone. It
says it is not compatible and the service people say it is because it is only
nine seconds long. I have AT&T. Any suggestions?
Rich Kahn

> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 08:43:59 -0800
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] healey engine sound ringtone
>
> http://www.mytinyphone.com/ringtone/147811/
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From yeastd at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 14 19:57:22 2009
From: yeastd at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Yeast)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:57:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <13090490.1260834214835.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <519154.83122.qm@web82707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

And I thought when I joined this chat recently on aquisition of a BN-1, hoping
for advice and technical assistance that I would not receive the nonsense
received so far.  Was I wrong? Left/right/port/starboard/Paris travel
advice????????????

Dennis Yeast
email: yeastd at sbcglobal.net

--- On Mon, 12/14/09, John H <jhomonek at mindspring.com> wrote:


From: John H <jhomonek at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
To: sales at justbrits.com, "John H" <bn7 at mindspring.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net, linsley46 at gmail.com
Date: Monday, December 14, 2009, 11:43 PM


Ed,

????
Thanks
No
Yes
Don't know
No

????

John Homonek

-----Original Message-----
>From: "Sales at \" Just Brits \"" <sales at justbrits.com>
>Sent: Dec 14, 2009 6:20 PM
>To: John H <bn7 at mindspring.com>
>Cc: linsley46 at gmail.com, Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
>
>John H, I am ASHAMED of you.  The ONLY thing in your
>post that has a iota of sense is:
>
><quote>
>
>My point is: I think they are made to be driven and enjoyed.
>
></quote>
>
>So you ARE saying that DMH made & sold cars BUT
>NOT to be 'driven' NOR 'enjoyed' ?!?!?
>
>YOU have been around long enough that you should
>have met Rich Chrysler by now, I hope ??
>
>What is the tacit 'motto' of the Concours Committee??
>
>I am sorry but as one of the earliest backers of Rich
>and Gary in forming The Concours Committee and of
>accepting their Guidelines I am MORE then aware that
>their ONLY goal was to restore cars back to "as they
>were built" AND be DRIVEN AND ENJOYED !!
>
>Folks that take the view that a "Level" car is to be put
>up in a museum or to become a Trailer Queen have a
>ZERO concept of Concours.
>
>I have no idea of how many "Level" cars I have seen
>Rich drive THOUSANDS of miles to attend events.
>Did you go to Conclave '88 in Shangri-la, OK where
>Rich had an example  ??  That he DROVE from
>Ontario, CANADA !!!!
>
>Oh I forgot, Rich doesn't DRIVE nor ENJOY "Level"
>restored Healeys.  My bad.
>
>Ed
>'63 AH BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STANDARD
>[NOT hiding behind antiques ones] ILL plates   AH BJ 7   )
>Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
>(35+ years).
>Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
>
>Please visit MY site at:
>www.justbrits.com
>
>PS:  John McElrath, PLEASE soldier and if there is ANY-
>THING I may assist you with, please feel free to ask.
>GREAT Luck with your project !!!
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as yeastd at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Dec 14 20:46:28 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 22:46:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII
References: <519154.83122.qm@web82707.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <74A6875180244AC99B2498124FAD963C@LIFEBOOK>

That's just the point, Dennis; ask away and some of us will do our best to 
provide good information, photos, etc.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Yeast" <yeastd at sbcglobal.net>
To: <sales at justbrits.com>; "John H" <bn7 at mindspring.com>
Cc: <linsley46 at gmail.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Information needed on BN7 MkII


> And I thought when I joined this chat recently on aquisition of a BN-1, 
> hoping
> for advice and technical assistance that I would not receive the nonsense
> received so far.  Was I wrong? Left/right/port/starboard/Paris travel
> advice????????????
>
> Dennis Yeast

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Dec 14 21:07:14 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 04:07:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?rivets?=
Message-ID: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>

 a couple of rivets in the top framework on the bn6 are worn pretty bad.  are these hardware store items or do some of the suppliers carry them?   hjim

From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Mon Dec 14 23:00:01 2009
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:00:01 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
Message-ID: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>

Hi All
        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested Nankang
Tires which are less expensive and can
        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using the
tires and which series are they
        the size requires are 165x15
        Regards Keith

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 00:10:27 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:10:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912142310v1acbde0fpe3257e5dc130b53@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know too much about Nankang, except they are based in Taiwan.  These
days that's more or less a good thing, but likely most of the product is
made in China.   If their quality control is good, it could be good stuff,
hard to say.  A bit of a risk.

Definitely do not keep use those old Michelins.  Old Michelins (even with no
wear) have a bit of a tendency to blow out on the road - dangerous.
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:

> Hi All
>        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested
> Nankang
> Tires which are less expensive and can
>        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using
> the
> tires and which series are they
>        the size requires are 165x15
>        Regards Keith

From grday at btinternet.com  Tue Dec 15 00:59:21 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:59:21 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <B709FE92C2B847679064CF14688FD0E1@user8634b3d69b>

Keith,

Have a look at:-
http://thegarageblog.com/garage/tire-review-nankang-ex500/   From post 21 
on.... :-)
http://www.epinions.com/reviews/Nankang_Trailer_Tires_Utility_Tire
http://www.tyretest.com/

Tread separation and sidewalls seem to be an issue but most times the 
complaints mentioned are caused by overheating due to under inflation 
pressures.  Also, the complaints indicate use for an extended time period 
immediately prior to the problem arising, this would support the low 
pressure leading to overheating causation.

>From reading your post you don't seem to use the car so often so why not use 
them?

Guy R Day

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Bailey"
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres


> Hi All
>        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested 
> Nankang
> Tires which are less expensive and can
>        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using 
> the
> tires and which series are they
>        the size requires are 165x15
>        Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________

From grday at btinternet.com  Tue Dec 15 01:20:40 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:20:40 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
	<ff59076c0912142310v1acbde0fpe3257e5dc130b53@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E47A968DBAE84557820C53BBFABCA07E@user8634b3d69b>

Alan,
Nankang have been making tyres in Taiwan since the 1940's.  They seem to 
have variable reviews with different comments for different sizes. 
Manufacturing quality control is hard to maintain and they may suffer from 
that.  One tyre company (a number of years ago) had problems simply because 
the night staff opened an external door to let cooler air in and that 
affected the bond between metal bracing cords and rubber.  It cost a lot of 
money because one guy on the production line was warm!

Old Michelins tend to have a low pressure in them through neglect, that is 
the probably reason for <quote> a bit of a tendency to blow out on the road 
<endquote>!

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyres


>I don't know too much about Nankang, except they are based in Taiwan. 
>These
> days that's more or less a good thing, but likely most of the product is
> made in China.   If their quality control is good, it could be good stuff,
> hard to say.  A bit of a risk.
>
> Definitely do not keep use those old Michelins.  Old Michelins (even with 
> no
> wear) have a bit of a tendency to blow out on the road - dangerous.
> Alan

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 15 01:35:23 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:35:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>

Problem is:
What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start 
all over again.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Patrick Yoas schreef:
> I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and a
> port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like they
> are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on the
> ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
> Patrick
>  
>  
> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>   
>>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>>
>>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>>> "right" side means
>>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>>> while facing
>>> forward.
>>>
>>> Robert Duquette
>>> Ottawa ON Canada
>>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>>>       
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 15 01:55:30 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:55:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] rivets
In-Reply-To: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4B274F02.8030007@chello.nl>

It may be more convenient to replace them with tight fitting bolts with 
a short cilindrical shaft and self locking nuts, after 
redrilling/reaming the holes in the frame to the diameter of the bolts 
shaft. Fit them with some graphite/MoS2 grease. Do not forget to fit 
brass or nylon washers between the moving parts.
If you want to use rivets, you still have to redril/ream the holes as 
they are likely to have worn as well. Rivets are still available in many 
sizes, but you may have to search around a bit. Hardware 
shops/Google/Ebay etc. You can always have them made up by a machine shop.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef:
>  a couple of rivets in the top framework on the bn6 are worn pretty bad.  are these hardware store items or do some of the suppliers carry them?   hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 02:24:40 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 17:24:40 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <B709FE92C2B847679064CF14688FD0E1@user8634b3d69b>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
	<B709FE92C2B847679064CF14688FD0E1@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912150124i4f3da666j25c62b2e873eb155@mail.gmail.com>

All -

I note the reviews seem to suggest these are very hard wearing tires.
This generally is a good sign, but can be deceptive when it comes to safety
over time.  Once the tires start getting old, they tires may look good and
have full tread, but hard tires like this will definitely lose their grip
and become quite dangerous in wet conditions after a few years.

I had Rikens like this, and they looked new, but after a decade they
couldn't hold all that well in hot dry conditions, and wet conditions there
was no hold at all.  Eventually the belts delaminated and I replaced the
tires, but the treads still looked good.

Sometimes having a tire that starts looking like crap when it gets old is a
good thing - it makes you change your tires when you should.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Guy R Day <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Keith,
>
> Have a look at:-
> http://thegarageblog.com/garage/tire-review-nankang-ex500/   From post 21
> on.... :-)
> http://www.epinions.com/reviews/Nankang_Trailer_Tires_Utility_Tire
> http://www.tyretest.com/
>
> Tread separation and sidewalls seem to be an issue but most times the
> complaints mentioned are caused by overheating due to under inflation
> pressures.  Also, the complaints indicate use for an extended time period
> immediately prior to the problem arising, this would support the low
> pressure leading to overheating causation.
>
> From reading your post you don't seem to use the car so often so why not
>> use
>>
> them?
>
> Guy R Day
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Bailey"
> Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
>
>
>
> Hi All
>>       I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
>> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>>       old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested
>> Nankang
>> Tires which are less expensive and can
>>       replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using
>> the
>> tires and which series are they
>>       the size requires are 165x15
>>       Regards Keith
>> _______________________________________________
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 15 02:27:58 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 10:27:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <4B27569E.1090209@chello.nl>

Keith,
Tires manufacturers to consider are:
Michelin, Continental, Vredestein (may have balancing issues), Kumho 
(used to be terrible but recently had some quite good test results). 
Prices are not that important for safety's sake, spread over 6/7 years.
Steer clear of Nankang, Hankook, General, Nexen and several others from 
Korea, China, Indonesia, India etc. and remanufactured tires.
Watch the manufacturing dates as specified by the codes, see: 
http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/car-tire-date-code.html
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Keith Bailey schreef:
> Hi All
>         I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>         old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested Nankang
> Tires which are less expensive and can
>         replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using the
> tires and which series are they
>         the size requires are 165x15
>         Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 04:26:02 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 06:26:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <000201ca7d79$8c0827e0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Tires?  Again?  Oh my god.    See you guys next year.   Archives, archives, 
archives.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 1:00 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres


> Hi All
>        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested 
> Nankang
> Tires which are less expensive and can
>        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using 
> the
> tires and which series are they
>        the size requires are 165x15
>        Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Dec 15 06:18:25 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:18:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912142310v1acbde0fpe3257e5dc130b53@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
	<ff59076c0912142310v1acbde0fpe3257e5dc130b53@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B278CA1.1060407@comcast.net>

Alan is right about the Michelins.  I had a XZX with good tread of 
indeterminate age, but over ten years old, separate the tread last year.
Fortunately I wasn't going fast.  Bought a new set of Kumhos from Tire 
Rack to replace them.
Charlie

Alan Seigrist wrote:
> I don't know too much about Nankang, except they are based in Taiwan.  These
> days that's more or less a good thing, but likely most of the product is
> made in China.   If their quality control is good, it could be good stuff,
> hard to say.  A bit of a risk.
>
> Definitely do not keep use those old Michelins.  Old Michelins (even with no
> wear) have a bit of a tendency to blow out on the road - dangerous.
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Keith Bailey <keithbailey5 at bigpond.com>wrote:
>
>   
>> Hi All
>>        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
>> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>>        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested
>> Nankang
>> Tires which are less expensive and can
>>        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using
>> the
>> tires and which series are they
>>        the size requires are 165x15
>>        Regards Keith
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Dec 15 06:27:45 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 00:27:45 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] TYRES
Message-ID: <4B278ED1.3040106@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

Each and almost every company will make a tyre to suit a range of 
buyers/users.  Moral do not blindly buy according to company advertising 
blurb.

My suggestion is with cars that generally do little mileage buy 'soft' 
tyres that handle and brake well. In autralia the motoring mags. do tyre 
tests with the same vvehicle and driver. It is amazing for example that 
in brand name tyres you can get several car length difference in 
stopping distances.  The best wet performance and dry are not not 
necessarily from the same brand.

One FACT I find most usefull is the number on the side of the tyre that 
indicates it's wear factor. It is assumed that low wear is consistant 
with soft rubber and therefore better grip. For example our local GM V.8 
goer is issued with Wear Indicator 140,  my Michelins were 240 as were 
my Continentals. As a comparison my Sprite road legal track day tyres 
are 60.

Go to you shop and say give me cheap tyres and you may be sold 360.

When I need to stop in a hurry I want to STOP.  It would seem most of us 
and our cars are aging and we need all the help we can get. Our only 
contact with the road is that little patch, do you want adhesion or 
something approaching carbon?

Joe

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec 15 06:33:57 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 13:33:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] steering idler arm
Message-ID: <BAY112-W3565049E71773806CA0746B8880@phx.gbl>

Going from my bad memory ... is this what someone was looking for a short
while back?



Ebay item # 320462465804

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Dec 15 06:35:11 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 00:35:11 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] More Sad Tyre Stories.
Message-ID: <4B27908F.9040303@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

My old BN.4  fitted with half worn Pirelli Cinturatos was not all that 
pleasant to drive and in a moment of weakness I agreed to sell it as I 
had two other Healeys.  The buyer's deal was a new set of tyres.  I 
agreed and fitted some ordinary set of radials I cannot remember the 
name of. The improvement in the responsiveness of the steering and 
overall feel of the car left men with a pissed off feeling as the 
pleasure was back and if I had not cashed the deposit cheque I would 
have withdrawn the Healey from sale.

MORAL,  get new and get good tyres. You will smile all the way.

Joe

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Dec 15 08:12:49 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:12:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D034200E6@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I like my old Michelins better than my new Vredestiens! Even with the
wider 185/70 size compared to 165.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Bailey
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 10:00 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres

Hi All
        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car
now Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested
Nankang Tires which are less expensive and can
        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience
using the tires and which series are they
        the size requires are 165x15
        Regards Keith

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 08:50:00 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:50:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Trunk Restoration
In-Reply-To: <c9398f98a6dd4f50b3be509b38949cc8@memphisassociates.com>
References: <c9398f98a6dd4f50b3be509b38949cc8@memphisassociates.com>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250912150750o44e858b2pe3fb28e24b3f686b@mail.gmail.com>

Jon, I've got plenty pics. Will send them from my Picasa site.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/12/14 Jon Buhler <buhler at memphisassociates.com>

> My next project is to restore the trunk area on my BJ8.  Would any of you
> have
> photos of this process on your Healey?  Thanks for your help.
>
> Jon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 15 09:06:47 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:06:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tires again
Message-ID: <COL121-W56EC0C2C81DBA04B12B655A4880@phx.gbl>

One comment made regarding low pressure and heat got me thinking. What is the
best pressure for longer life and safety with our cars? Will it depend upon
type and brand? I get the best ride and handling with my Michelins at about 30
to 32 psi.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Dec 15 09:14:40 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:14:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] rivets
In-Reply-To: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D034200EA@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I got my BJ8 steel rivets from McMaster-Car industrial supply on the
Internet last winter. Look in the archives. I don't know if they are the
same or not as a BN6. It takes two persons to rivet and the air hammer
set on max! Practice.
I was able to use the original rivet diameters and holes without
reaming. The rivets seemed to wear more than the holes.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 09:23:49 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:23:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] rivets
In-Reply-To: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091215040714.20620.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <57320728-0025-4492-9B05-C82B001C58C9@sbcglobal.net>

Yes we have all the rivits needed to repair all the Healey top frames.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 14, 2009, at 8:07 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>  
<healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

>  a couple of rivets in the top framework on the bn6 are worn pretty  
> bad.  are these hardware store items or do some of the suppliers  
> carry them?   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 09:25:57 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:25:57 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
References: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <BF5EEEFA-A16D-47E4-8F43-54EC7A408D3D@sbcglobal.net>

A good tire is very important in the performance of your Healey. DO  
NOT scrimp on tires.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 14, 2009, at 10:00 PM, Keith Bailey wrote:

> Hi All
>         I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the  
> car now
> Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
>         old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer  
> suggested Nankang
> Tires which are less expensive and can
>         replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any  
> experience using the
> tires and which series are they
>         the size requires are 165x15
>         Regards Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 10:04:07 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 11:04:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <002f01ca7da8$9d161bd0$d7425370$@net>

Thank you Rich, for saying what hopefully many of us know; driving these
cars is the reason to own them.  It is simply fun, and sometimes
challenging, to take a 50 year old car, restored or preserved to its
original condition, and drive it as if the car incorporated all the
technology one needs.  And in my opinion, it does provides just that.
 
Beginning in 2006 when our 1959 BT7 was judged, we have preferred to drive
it on trips rather than just drives, driving over 14,000 miles, including
three Conclaves (1,800 miles, 3,400 miles, and 2,730 miles)  and Sprite
Jubilee in Carlisle, PA (2,190 miles).  Rich is right, "trustworthy and
dependable" define our car perfectly.
  Ron Ray 
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 6:29 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Information needed on BN7 MkII
 
 Some of the replies to John's request for advice and details just make me
 shake my head.
 
 I have always aimed Healey restoration toward building potentially Gold
 level winning cars. But these cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed from
 the first mile they're back on the road. A "concours car" simply means the
 owner has chosen to have it evaluated in a recognized National Concours
 event. It doesn't mean it has to be a different spec car than when it was
new. It's completely up to the owner whether his car is entered into a
 Concours event or not.
 
 What I'm trying to say is that if a fellow builds his car to be as exact a
 specification as it was when it was sold new, it is extremely driveable, 
and
 why shouldn't it be? It was surely driveable back then! I have built and
 driven freshly restored Healeys hundreds, even thousands of miles to be
 judged, got the Gold, and proceeded to drive them elsewhere and eventually
 home again. A properly and well built Healey, done to exactly original 
specs
 is a trustworthy and dependable car.
 
 Why discorage the exactness the owner is trying to achieve and replace it
 with advice that takes him away from his goal?
 
 Rich Chrysler

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 15 10:47:08 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:47:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys]  Chassis Numbers
Message-ID: <920556.66642.qm@web112502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Lets kick this up a notch.
Lets assume that the front seats are installed correctly, facing forward, with
forward as defined as towards the front bumper(if bumper is installed
correctly and not confused with the rear bumper)...we may also use the
bonnet/hood, which covers the engine as a referrence at this point in case
there's no bumper.
The person to the left of the person on the right is on the port side and the
person to the right of the person on the left is on the starboard side. This
is assuming that a person knows there left from right and if they were paying
attention to first paragraph.
 
 
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
To: Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <4B274A4B.1090101 at chello.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Problem is:
What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start
all over again.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Patrick Yoas schreef:
> I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and a
> port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like
they
> are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on
the
> ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
> Patrick
> 
> 
> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>   
>>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>>
>>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>>> "right" side means
>>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>>> while facing
>>> forward.
>>>
>>> Robert Duquette
>>> Ottawa ON Canada
>>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Dec 15 10:54:20 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 11:54:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres
In-Reply-To: <A193FCD92E8E43EC8E21BC5CB4596480@KeithDell>
Message-ID: <D5133AA937FD44F6849CEBC5CDFCAD4A@DANSTROM>

Keith:
Go into the website of Longstone Tyres out of the UK and check out the
Michelin XAS which is 180X15. The diameter is very close to the original
size Dunlop Roadspeeds RS5 I purchased. Fabulous selection of radials to fit
the Healeys and very reasonable shipping. 
Dan



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Bailey
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 12:00 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tyres

Hi All
        I am currently look at new tires for my BT7 I have on the car now
Michelin XZX which would be approx 10 years
        old and lucky to have 10% wear. My local tire dealer suggested
Nankang
Tires which are less expensive and can
        replaces every 4 years or so. Has any one got any experience using
the
tires and which series are they
        the size requires are 165x15
        Regards Keith
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 11:07:21 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 10:07:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <920556.66642.qm@web112502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <920556.66642.qm@web112502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912151007u479b5afehcbbcb1b40381677d@mail.gmail.com>

Ok. I am guilty of playing too, but please stop now.
Ira

On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 9:47 AM, Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Lets kick this up a notch.
> Lets assume that the front seats are installed correctly, facing forward,
> with
> forward as defined as towards the front bumper(if bumper is installed
> correctly and not confused with the rear bumper)...we may also use the
> bonnet/hood, which covers the engine as a referrence at this point in case
> there's no bumper.
> The person to the left of the person on the right is on the port side and
> the
> person to the right of the person on the left is on the starboard side.
> This
> is assuming that a person knows there left from right and if they were
> paying
> attention to first paragraph.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Dec 15 11:18:14 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 13:18:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows Wanted
References: <COL121-W56EC0C2C81DBA04B12B655A4880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1F9E9BD9B6E54AA996DB0010C85E507A@Edscomputer>

List,

I'm looking for top bows for an early BN4, the type that are "permanently" 
attached to the car and have some sort of sliding mechanism incorporated in 
their action.

Please reply off list.

Ed Woods 

From willig at wtnet.de  Tue Dec 15 12:46:18 2009
From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:46:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2
Message-ID: <001201ca7dbf$45cc1a70$d1644f50$@de>

Can someone direct me to a source of good quality (talking about fit) blue
Armacord boot and cockpit set for my BN2?

 I bought a set from one of the oldest suppliers of spare parts in the UK
and the fit is absolutely terrible. Not one piece of Armacord will fit my
car without extensive modification. You might argue that all early Healeys
are dimensionally  a bid different..but even the Armacord for the  battery
lid is 3/4*" to wide.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Thomas 

From insptwo at msn.com  Tue Dec 15 12:55:50 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:55:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>

That is easy to remember, Port is left (note the 4 letters)!

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:35:23 +0100
> From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
> To: pyoas at yahoo.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>
> Problem is:
> What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start
> all over again.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Patrick Yoas schreef:
> > I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and
a
> > port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like
they
> > are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on
the
> > ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
> > Patrick
> >
> >
> > From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
> >
> >>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
> >>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
> >>>
> >>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
> >>> "right" side means
> >>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
> >>> while facing
> >>> forward.
> >>>
> >>> Robert Duquette
> >>> Ottawa ON Canada
> >>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> >>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> >>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
> >>>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From insptwo at msn.com  Tue Dec 15 13:16:08 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:16:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <COL109-W127229C4E1048BF720FFECAD880@phx.gbl>

Basically it is very simple. I learned this at a very young age when I first
began boating.

Port is left (easy way to remember is that they are both 4 letter words).

Bill

BJ7




> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:35:23 +0100
> From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
> To: pyoas at yahoo.com
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>
> Problem is:
> What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start
> all over again.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Patrick Yoas schreef:
> > I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and
a
> > port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like
they
> > are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on
the
> > ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
> > Patrick

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 15 13:40:09 2009
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:40:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2
In-Reply-To: <001201ca7dbf$45cc1a70$d1644f50$@de>
Message-ID: <173709.94470.qm@web31506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Woolies in UK carries armacord/hundura on their web site by the yard.  I have
not seen it in person.

Joe
BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
BN2 100M
BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, T+ B Willig <willig at wtnet.de> wrote:

From: T+ B Willig <willig at wtnet.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 2:46 PM

Can someone direct me to a source of good quality (talking about fit) blue
Armacord boot and cockpit set for my BN2?

 I bought a set from one of the oldest suppliers of spare parts in the UK
and the fit is absolutely terrible. Not one piece of Armacord will fit my
car without extensive modification. You might argue that all early Healeys
are dimensionally  a bid different..but even the Armacord for the  battery
lid is 3/4*" to wide.





Thanks





Thomas
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ah53 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Tue Dec 15 13:57:02 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 21:57:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
	<COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>

Starboard = Steerboard
The steering was done on the right side on the Drakkars, the Vikings boats.
http://im.quirao2.com/qimage/p/gde/p2/drakkar-viking-60-2.jpg

BC

insptwo at msn.com a icrit :
> That is easy to remember, Port is left (note the 4 letters)!
>
> Bill
>
> BJ7
>
>   
>> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:35:23 +0100
>> From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> To: pyoas at yahoo.com
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>
>> Problem is:
>> What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start
>> all over again.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> Patrick Yoas schreef:
>>     
>>> I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side and
>>>       
> a
>   
>>> port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like
>>>       
> they
>   
>>> are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on
>>>       
> the
>   
>>> ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>>>
>>>       
>>>>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>>>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>>>>
>>>>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>>>>> "right" side means
>>>>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>>>>> while facing
>>>>> forward.
>>>>>
>>>>> Robert Duquette
>>>>> Ottawa ON Canada
>>>>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>>>>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>>>>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>>>>>
>>>>>           
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cabowley at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 15 14:32:26 2009
From: cabowley at hotmail.com (Chris Bowley)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 21:32:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Information needed on BN7 MkII
In-Reply-To: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <A647319311C747DC9112035A03EE322B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <COL123-W47E86F0610969FE02017C4C7880@phx.gbl>

Hear here! And well said.

> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:29:21 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Information needed on BN7 MkII
>
> Some of the replies to John's request for advice and details just make me
> shake my head.
>
> I have always aimed Healey restoration toward building potentially Gold
> level winning cars. But these cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed from
> the first mile they're back on the road. A "concours car" simply means the
> owner has chosen to have it evaluated in a recognized National Concours
> event. It doesn't mean it has to be a different spec car than when it was
> new. It's completely up to the owner whether his car is entered into a
> Concours event or not.
>
> What I'm trying to say is that if a fellow builds his car to be as exact a
> specification as it was when it was sold new, it is extremely driveable,
> and
> why shouldn't it be? It was surely driveable back then! I have built and
> driven freshly restored Healeys hundreds, even thousands of miles to be
> judged, got the Gold, and proceeded to drive them elsewhere and eventually
> home again. A properly and well built Healey, done to exactly original
> specs
> is a trustworthy and dependable car.
>
> Why discorage the exactness the owner is trying to achieve and replace it
> with advice that takes him away from his goal?
>
> Rich Chrysler
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cabowley at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From rdavies1 at cox.net  Tue Dec 15 17:04:17 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:04:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl><COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>
	<4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAFMPQQrPyKZMjtE6eDowfAABAAAAAA==@cox.net>

And Larboard was the left side, now Port =-)
Ron


Starboard = Steerboard
The steering was done on the right side on the Drakkars, the Vikings boats.
http://im.quirao2.com/qimage/p/gde/p2/drakkar-viking-60-2.jpg

BC

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Dec 15 17:22:24 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:22:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2
References: <001201ca7dbf$45cc1a70$d1644f50$@de>
Message-ID: <8C72014B51EF42D288614F408820C1BD@LIFEBOOK>

I have bought and installed one red, three blue and two black Armacord sets 
for customers' Hundreds from Heritage Upholstery and Trim, so far over the 
last few years and have been happy with all of them. I will point out that I 
find it's worth it to have them trim the battery compartment lid as it can 
be a fussy and exacting item to fit properly. In fact when doing the full 
interior I also have them trim the seats, armrest, parcel tray and the 
gearbox cover on BN1's. The balance comes as excellent kits and always 
results in an excellent and first class job.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 2:46 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2


> Can someone direct me to a source of good quality (talking about fit) blue
> Armacord boot and cockpit set for my BN2?
>
> I bought a set from one of the oldest suppliers of spare parts in the UK
> and the fit is absolutely terrible. Not one piece of Armacord will fit my
> car without extensive modification. You might argue that all early Healeys
> are dimensionally  a bid different..but even the Armacord for the  battery
> lid is 3/4*" to wide.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Thomas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Tue Dec 15 17:37:30 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 19:37:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl><COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>
	<4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <8CC4BFF15BB1C61-8270-64DD@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>

Just found this on Wikipedia
"Star light, star bright, starboard is to the right"

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Bernard Cristalli <bcrist at club-internet.fr>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 15, 2009 3:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers


Starboard = Steerboard
The steering was done on the right side on the Drakkars, the Vikings boats.
http://im.quirao2.com/qimage/p/gde/p2/drakkar-viking-60-2.jpg

BC

insptwo at msn.com a icrit :
> That is easy to remember, Port is left (note the 4 letters)!
>
> Bill
>
> BJ7
>
> >> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:35:23 +0100
>> From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> To: pyoas at yahoo.com
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>
>> Problem is:
>> What is port and what is starboard, left / right? And then we can start
>> all over again.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> Patrick Yoas schreef:
>> >>> I hope this settles this once and for all. There is a starboard side
and
>>> > a
> >>> port side. They remain the same no matter if the car is upside down(like
>>> > they
> >>> are in OZ). Boats or ships underwater, are often described as leaning on
>>> > the
> >>> ocean floor on their port or starboard sides(even if they're in OZ land)
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca
>>>
>>> >>>>> <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>>>>> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 12:29 PM
>>>>>
>>>>> No, no, no, don't do that!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Passenger side can be either side depending on country ...
>>>>> "right" side means
>>>>> right hand side of the car as viewed from the driver's seat
>>>>> while facing
>>>>> forward.
>>>>>
>>>>> Robert Duquette
>>>>> Ottawa ON Canada
>>>>> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
>>>>> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
>>>>> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>>>>>
>>>>> >>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>> >> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> > _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bcrist at club-internet.fr
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From britcar1 at msn.com  Tue Dec 15 17:42:50 2009
From: britcar1 at msn.com (DONALD N JOY)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:42:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2
In-Reply-To: <001201ca7dbf$45cc1a70$d1644f50$@de>
	<8C72014B51EF42D288614F408820C1BD@LIFEBOOK>
References: <001201ca7dbf$45cc1a70$d1644f50$@de>
	<8C72014B51EF42D288614F408820C1BD@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <BAY133-DS705432C6D1B317217440A89870@phx.gbl>

I would 2nd Rich's comment on the blue armacord from Heritage Upholstery.  I
installed their kit in a BN1 several years ago and had no problems with it.
As he said the battery lid is fussy but if a person is not in a hurry it is
not a problem

Don Joy
  From: Rich C<mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net>
  To: T+ B Willig<mailto:willig at wtnet.de> ;
healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 4:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2


  I have bought and installed one red, three blue and two black Armacord sets
  for customers' Hundreds from Heritage Upholstery and Trim, so far over the
  last few years and have been happy with all of them. I will point out that I
  find it's worth it to have them trim the battery compartment lid as it can
  be a fussy and exacting item to fit properly. In fact when doing the full
  interior I also have them trim the seats, armrest, parcel tray and the
  gearbox cover on BN1's. The balance comes as excellent kits and always
  results in an excellent and first class job.

  Rich Chrysler

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "T+ B Willig" <willig at wtnet.de<mailto:willig at wtnet.de>>
  To: <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
  Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 2:46 PM
  Subject: [Healeys] Blue Armacord set for BN2


  > Can someone direct me to a source of good quality (talking about fit)
blue
  > Armacord boot and cockpit set for my BN2?
  >
  > I bought a set from one of the oldest suppliers of spare parts in the UK
  > and the fit is absolutely terrible. Not one piece of Armacord will fit my
  > car without extensive modification. You might argue that all early
Healeys
  > are dimensionally  a bid different..but even the Armacord for the
battery
  > lid is 3/4*" to wide.
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > Thanks
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > Thomas
  > _______________________________________________
  > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  >
  > Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
  >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>
  >
  > You are subscribed as
richchrysler at quickclic.net<mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net>
  >
  > http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

  Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailma
n/listinfo/healeys>

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From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 15 19:14:06 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 02:14:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAFMPQQrPyKZMjtE6eDowfAABAAAAAA==@cox.net>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>, ,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl><COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>,
	<4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>,
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAFMPQQrPyKZMjtE6eDowfAABAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <COL106-W16A7485E10CA491BD3545BC0870@phx.gbl>

Sailors say:  I left my girl in port.  Enough!!!!!!!

> From: rdavies1 at cox.net
> To: bcrist at club-internet.fr; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:04:17 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
>
> And Larboard was the left side, now Port =-)
> Ron
>
>
> Starboard = Steerboard
> The steering was done on the right side on the Drakkars, the Vikings boats.
> http://im.quirao2.com/qimage/p/gde/p2/drakkar-viking-60-2.jpg
>
> BC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Tue Dec 15 19:29:39 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:29:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W16A7485E10CA491BD3545BC0870@phx.gbl>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>, ,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl><COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>,
	<4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>,
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAFMPQQrPyKZMjtE6eDowfAABAAAAAA==@cox.net>
	<COL106-W16A7485E10CA491BD3545BC0870@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B284613.1020806@comcast.net>

But Ron....

<< And Larboard was the left side, now Port >>

I was under the impression that "Port" side was where
the WINE was stowed and "Larbord" was where the
GROCERIES where stowed ?!?!

So all these years my info has been incorrect because
they both could NOT be on the SAME side, right  ?!?!?

Confusead

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Tue Dec 15 19:37:39 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John Rowe)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:37:39 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <8CC4BFF15BB1C61-8270-64DD@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>,
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl><COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl><4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
	<8CC4BFF15BB1C61-8270-64DD@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C8E9C89F36464C94BA7EACBFAC2CCAF3@Johnlaptop>

When is enough enough?

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Tue Dec 15 20:26:25 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 22:26:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tires again
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W56EC0C2C81DBA04B12B655A4880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091216032625.DDC2B18789F@autox.team.net>

I have always followed the recommendation in the owner's manual 25# in the
front and 30# in the rear.  When I got my new tires from Hendrix he
recommended 30# on all four.  I tried that, but the car did not hold the
road as well so I dropped the fronts back to 25#.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB


> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
> Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 11:07 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Tires again
> 
> One comment made regarding low pressure and heat got me thinking. What is
> the
> best pressure for longer life and safety with our cars? Will it depend
> upon
> type and brand? I get the best ride and handling with my Michelins at
> about 30
> to 32 psi.
> Rich Kahn
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
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> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at verizon.net  Tue Dec 15 21:02:31 2009
From: healeydoc at verizon.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:02:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tires again
In-Reply-To: <20091216032625.DDC2B18789F@autox.team.net>
References: <20091216032625.DDC2B18789F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4F31B33E-6748-4402-AF07-9915AD143310@verizon.net>

Those tire pressures were for the old  bias Ply tires, if you run  
that low of a pressure in a steel belted tire you will have excessive  
wear and poor handeling/

On Dec 15, 2009, at 7:26 PM, Peter Schauss wrote:

> I have always followed the recommendation in the owner's manual 25#  
> in the
> front and 30# in the rear.  When I got my new tires from Hendrix he
> recommended 30# on all four.  I tried that, but the car did not  
> hold the
> road as well so I dropped the fronts back to 25#.
>
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 11:07 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Tires again
>>
>> One comment made regarding low pressure and heat got me thinking.  
>> What is
>> the
>> best pressure for longer life and safety with our cars? Will it  
>> depend
>> upon
>> type and brand? I get the best ride and handling with my Michelins at
>> about 30
>> to 32 psi.
>> Rich Kahn
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
>> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 21:07:10 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:07:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] original color combos
Message-ID: <173126440912152007s29e8c385scdad1a5c249810e7@mail.gmail.com>

The www.healey.org site used to have a great section on colors for specific
models and combinations.
Have not been able to locate it. please send me a link to this info. We are
taking my car down to bare metal and my wife and I want to check out the
paint schemes.

Thanks

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Tue Dec 15 21:58:36 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John Rowe)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:58:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers
In-Reply-To: <4B284EEB.30202@sasktel.net>
References: <224240.78189.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4B274A4B.1090101@chello.nl>
	<COL109-W34821A3B840885B50D5166AD880@phx.gbl>
	<4B27F81E.8070003@club-internet.fr>
	<8CC4BFF15BB1C61-8270-64DD@webmail-d071.sysops.aol.com>
	<C8E9C89F36464C94BA7EACBFAC2CCAF3@Johnlaptop>
	<4B284EEB.30202@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <9BF466672BAE4C1E8EFCD126FC90B974@Johnlaptop>

Time to move to a better place! (or climate)
Regards
John (Qld Aust)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
To: "John Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis Numbers


> When it gets to -31C with winds up 15 kph to give a wind chill of -45C
> Kind regards
> Ed
> 
> 
> John Rowe wrote:
>> When is enough enough?

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 15 22:09:56 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 21:09:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] original color combos
In-Reply-To: <173126440912152007s29e8c385scdad1a5c249810e7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912152007s29e8c385scdad1a5c249810e7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912152109w64309bbbycf838b84ef2c4805@mail.gmail.com>

got what I was looking for
http://www.austinhealey.com/



On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 8:07 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The www.healey.org site used to have a great section on colors for
> specific models and combinations.
> Have not been able to locate it. please send me a link to this info. We are
> taking my car down to bare metal and my wife and I want to check out the
> paint schemes.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Dec 15 22:32:11 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 23:32:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] original color combos
In-Reply-To: <173126440912152007s29e8c385scdad1a5c249810e7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912152007s29e8c385scdad1a5c249810e7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E599F67B96154437A8B556DD1407ADFA@GregPC>

I liked that site too, is this what you wanted? 
http://www.austinhealey.com/big.html

Greg Lemon

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 16 04:51:10 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:51:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
Message-ID: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
correct?

If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make a
gauge
that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?

Mark

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Wed Dec 16 05:31:00 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:31:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <99EC7DFB4CEA440F9314584079DA6749@your4dacd0ea75>

"I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
correct? "


Neither  ;^)

or is it the left one ?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure


>>
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would 
> make a
> gauge
> that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
>
> Mark

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 05:38:01 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:38:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250912160438yacf6ea8oa701e604879ae4e7@mail.gmail.com>

Mark, go to a professional tyre center and ask them to measure the pressure
of one of your tyres. Then get your three gauges out and measure as well.
Throw away the two gauges that are furthest out (or all three if they are
all three hopeless and buy a good one). Generally speaking it is not so much
the absolute value of your tyre pressure, it is far more important  that
both front/rear tyres have the same pressure.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/12/16 Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>

> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
> correct?
>
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make
> a
> gauge
> that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 16 05:54:22 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:54:22 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <3A1B837CB2EB4586B3D65C9C7143A7B9@user8634b3d69b>

The right (starboard or offside) one.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 11:51 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure


>I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
> correct?
>
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would 
> make a
> gauge
> that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as grday at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 06:06:14 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 00:06:14 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <1833EC24-B955-4AD0-A3A8-494B4A420578@gmail.com>

The correct tyre pressure for your car is easy to calculate. And it's  
fun....
Assuming radials, start with 34 lbs all round. Cold. At night. When  
you haven't driven the car for 12 hours or more.

Next morning, on a warm day (that's almost any day in Australia!! -  
you Americans/ Brits may need to wait a few months...), find your  
favourite stretch of road, and drive vigorously. Then drive to a  
nearby old style shopping centre carpark/ school carpark (on a  
weekend) and do a few figure 8s at a reasonable speed (without being a  
complete hoon.....)

Jump out and measure your tyre pressure when your Tyres are the  
hotest  You are looking for a 3- 4 lb increase, and a max hot tyre  
pressure on road radials of around 38- 40. If they are say 40 at the  
front, and say 38 at the rear, write it down and go home.

Next day (12 hrs cold) make the fronts say 36 (from 34 cold, 40 hot)  
and rears  can stay the same (34 cold, 38 hot)

Best part - do it all again! Enjoy your Healey!! See what the pressure  
is after you've done it all again, and as long as you see a 3- 4 lb  
increase, with Tyres at full max temp, you have the right tyre  
pressure for your car....

If you started at e.g. 30, you'd possibly still end at 40 or maybe  
more. You need more air to start with...

You can get all carried away with tyre pyrometers. And spend a day at  
a track. Ive done all that. The results generally aren't much  
different, the pyrometer just tells you more, e.g. heat across the  
face of the tyre which e.g. helps with e.g. Camber adjustment and  
contact patch stuff. Which isn't easy to adjust.

But for most of you guys, just looking for some guidance on road  
radials, this method is pretty damn close.

And yes, the manual is talking about bias ply tyres. Not modern radials.

If this is all to compIex,  start at 36 front and 34 rear on the road.  
Higher pressure in the end which slides first. But I've never owned an  
oversteering Healey.... Unless I want it to...

And yes, tyres. Not tires. Read the manual. Guage isn't that relevant,  
it's the increase/ cold/ hot pressure relativity you need to focus on.

;-)

Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

On 16/12/2009, at 10:51 PM, "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>  
wrote:

> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which  
> one is
> correct?

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Dec 16 06:29:16 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:29:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <AA7738CF-2DE8-431F-810A-32514E018C75@mac.com>

Confucius say: "Man with one watch knows what time it is. Man with two  
watches not sure."

Al Malin



On Dec 16, 2009, at 6:51 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which  
> one is
> correct?
>
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one  
> would make a
> gauge
> that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is  
> correct?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 16 06:29:28 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:29:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <4B28E0B8.5080107@chello.nl>

Mark,

Consumer research showed more often than once that tire gauges mostly 
are very inaccurate, independent of the price you pay for them. Your 
best bet is to get a digital one, The digital gauges from Michelin are 
reasonably accurate as are the mechanical ones from Hella and VDO. At 
the fuel pump go for a station with a new(ish) digital air pump/gauge, 
for some you may have to pay. These are nearly always spot on. These can 
be used to roughly check your own gauge. At least that is the situation 
over here.

The worst ones are the very impressive ones that you get in a set 
together with an airblaster, paint sprayer and other pneumatic tools. 
They are usually included in compressor packages. They can be downright 
dangerous as they often indicate a much higher pressure than actually 
there, leading to serious under inflation.
Also absolutely useless are most gauges on footpumps and mini 
compressors that run of your battery.

Over inflation on radials is not so much of a problem, it causes a harsh 
ride and in some cases excessive wear in the middle of the thread.   In 
diagonal tires this is much more obvious. Under inflation is problem, it 
will cause overheating, which can lead to lethal thread separation, and 
excessive wear on the outside of the thread.
Under inflation leads to serious braking and handling problems.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Mark LaPierre schreef:
> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
> correct?
>
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make a
> gauge
> that gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 16 06:44:58 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:44:58 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<4e23c7250912160438yacf6ea8oa701e604879ae4e7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BCEA0F29BD724399BAD7E5377BCC0CBC@user8634b3d69b>

As no-one has come up with definitive tyre pressures - the MG Midget Mk III 
1967 handbook says:-
Wheel size:            disc   3.5Dx13;        wire       4Jxl3 5.20x13
Tyre size and type  Dunlop C41 Gold Seal (Nylon) Tubeless 5.20x13

                              SP 41 - Tubed Radial  (still a stiffish one)



Tyre pressures (set cold):

Normal . . . . Heavy duty . . . .   SP41

Front . . . . .     19 psi  . . . . . .    22 psi

Rear  . . . . .     20 psi  . . . . . .    24psi




For sustained speed in excess of 80-85mph
Front . . . . .     22 psi  . . . . . .    22 psi

Rear  . . . . .     24 psi  . . . . . .    24psi



Haynes Workshop Manual states:

Crossply . . . . . .    Front  . . . . . . .  Rear

Normal driving  .    18psi                20psi

Max load  . . . . .    18psi                24psi

High Speed . . . .    22psi                28psi



Radial . . . . . . . . .   Front  . . . . . . .  Rear

Normal driving  .     22psi                24psi

Max load  . . . . .     22psi                26psi

High Speed . . . .     28psi                30psi



Mine ran normally at 28front / 30rear, upping to 30f/30r for a lightweight 
fast run and 32f/34r for a loaded run.  My tyre pressure gauge was bought 
certified and was checked around 3 years ago and was still correct.  (I 
should have it checked again.)  Wear was even across the tread.



Guy R Day

From aon.912808691 at aon.at  Wed Dec 16 06:46:42 2009
From: aon.912808691 at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner (aon))
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:46:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <1833EC24-B955-4AD0-A3A8-494B4A420578@gmail.com>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<1833EC24-B955-4AD0-A3A8-494B4A420578@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAALQiP5sGmV1NqCIes6rTDhIBAAAAAA==@aon.at>

Chris,

I will have to wait half a year too ;)

The 34 and 36 is meant for your 3000? How about the 100? In the manual it
says front 20, rear 23 PSI. Probably wrong too, any suggestions?

Reinhart



Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN1
Vienna - Austria

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
Im Auftrag von Chris Dimmock
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Dezember 2009 14:06
An: Mark LaPierre
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure

The correct tyre pressure for your car is easy to calculate. And it's
fun....
Assuming radials, start with 34 lbs all round. Cold. At night. When
you haven't driven the car for 12 hours or more.

Next morning, on a warm day (that's almost any day in Australia!! -
you Americans/ Brits may need to wait a few months...), find your
favourite stretch of road, and drive vigorously. Then drive to a
nearby old style shopping centre carpark/ school carpark (on a
weekend) and do a few figure 8s at a reasonable speed (without being a
complete hoon.....)

Jump out and measure your tyre pressure when your Tyres are the
hotest  You are looking for a 3- 4 lb increase, and a max hot tyre
pressure on road radials of around 38- 40. If they are say 40 at the
front, and say 38 at the rear, write it down and go home.

Next day (12 hrs cold) make the fronts say 36 (from 34 cold, 40 hot)
and rears  can stay the same (34 cold, 38 hot)

Best part - do it all again! Enjoy your Healey!! See what the pressure
is after you've done it all again, and as long as you see a 3- 4 lb
increase, with Tyres at full max temp, you have the right tyre
pressure for your car....

If you started at e.g. 30, you'd possibly still end at 40 or maybe
more. You need more air to start with...

You can get all carried away with tyre pyrometers. And spend a day at
a track. Ive done all that. The results generally aren't much
different, the pyrometer just tells you more, e.g. heat across the
face of the tyre which e.g. helps with e.g. Camber adjustment and
contact patch stuff. Which isn't easy to adjust.

But for most of you guys, just looking for some guidance on road
radials, this method is pretty damn close.

And yes, the manual is talking about bias ply tyres. Not modern radials.

If this is all to compIex,  start at 36 front and 34 rear on the road.
Higher pressure in the end which slides first. But I've never owned an
oversteering Healey.... Unless I want it to...

And yes, tyres. Not tires. Read the manual. Guage isn't that relevant,
it's the increase/ cold/ hot pressure relativity you need to focus on.

;-)

Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

On 16/12/2009, at 10:51 PM, "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which
> one is
> correct?
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as aon.912808691 at aon.at

http://www.team.net/archive

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Wed Dec 16 08:09:43 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:09:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W176860D4CE0BFFD9861B89B8870@phx.gbl>

The one from the gauge that was made in Canada?

Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures. Which one is
> correct?
>
> Mark

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 08:22:40 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 02:22:40 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <BCEA0F29BD724399BAD7E5377BCC0CBC@user8634b3d69b>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<4e23c7250912160438yacf6ea8oa701e604879ae4e7@mail.gmail.com>
	<BCEA0F29BD724399BAD7E5377BCC0CBC@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <8BD3B5D6-9A17-466C-9201-EF930C209E08@gmail.com>

Hi Guy, if I was using 'fresh' 40 plus year old technology tyres on a  
Healey, those factory manual settings would have been appropriate.

Forget the manual, it's almost 2010. Your loaded run pressures are  
much closer on a spridget than the factory manual.

The "max inflation pressure" guideline on the sidewall is a good  
general target to aim for hot. Usually around 37 - 40 psi hot. Usually  
30 - 36 psi cold. As a rule of thumb. General guidance. No warranty  
implied or offered......

Ambient air temp affects this too. I'm basing my experience on living  
in Sydney, Australia, where we just don't experience the temperature  
variations in a year some of you guys do. But the again, if it's  
snowing, you probably aren't driving the Healey at 10 tenths anyway,  
are you? I'm talking summer/ nice Healey driving weather.

;-)

Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 17/12/2009, at 12:44 AM, "Guy R Day" <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> As no-one has come up with definitive tyre pressures - the MG Midget  
> Mk III 1967 handbook says:-
> Wheel size:            disc   3.5Dx13;        wire       4Jxl3 5.20x13
> Tyre size and type  Dunlop C41 Gold Seal (Nylon) Tubeless 5.20x13
>
>                             SP 41 - Tubed Radial  (still a stiffish  
> one)
>
> Tyre pressures (set cold):
>
> Normal . . . . Heavy duty . . . .   SP41
>
> Front . . . . .     19 psi  . . . . . .    22 psi
>
> Rear  . . . . .     20 psi  . . . . . .    24psi
>
> For sustained speed in excess of 80-85mph
> Front . . . . .     22 psi  . . . . . .    22 psi
>
> Rear  . . . . .     24 psi  . . . . . .    24psi
>
> Haynes Workshop Manual states:
>
> Crossply . . . . . .    Front  . . . . . . .  Rear
>
> Normal driving  .    18psi                20psi
>
> Max load  . . . . .    18psi                24psi
>
> High Speed . . . .    22psi                28psi
>
> Radial . . . . . . . . .   Front  . . . . . . .  Rear
>
> Normal driving  .     22psi                24psi
>
> Max load  . . . . .     22psi                26psi
>
> High Speed . . . .     28psi                30psi
>
> Mine ran normally at 28front / 30rear, upping to 30f/30r for a  
> lightweight fast run and 32f/34r for a loaded run.

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Wed Dec 16 08:34:17 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:34:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAKjPMm9xWRhNik2x8+0CLFQBAAAAAA==@cox.net>

"42" Duh. From Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy. Don't Panic!
Ron

-------------------------------
I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
correct?

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 09:18:35 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 11:18:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <mailman.662.1260970177.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.662.1260970177.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B29085B.7000309@comcast.net>

Mark LaPierre wrote:
 > I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.
 > Which one is correct?

One answer can be find here, at the 2:33 mark.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boxSx0C3_zg>

:)

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed Dec 16 11:22:33 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:22:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Message-ID: <003201ca7e7c$bca62510$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

For what its worth:

BMC Technical Bulletin # 1 F 29, for Feb.25, 1965,   gives the following tire
pressures in psi for the newly introduced Dunlop SP-41 radial tires :

Model                                            Front          Rear

Midget/ Sprite                                    22            24
MGB (normal motoring)                       21            24
MGB (sustained high speeds)              27            31
Healey 3000 (normal motoring)            25             30
Healey 3000 (sustained high speeds)   30             35

The tire pressure on the sidewall has to do with the TIRE itself, its
construction and materials, and is not a recommended "guideline" for running
pressures on your particular car.  Its the pressure at which it holds its
maximum load (given in a coded load range), and is based on an industry
standard for a particular tire size, not necessarily the tire's absolute
maximum psi.   Lots of info on this is available with a simple search.

Best
Peter

From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com  Wed Dec 16 11:24:46 2009
From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:24:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 68 Sprite on eBay
Message-ID: <988A2011C4894CD483ED8A18035DE381@FredLaptop>

Does anyone know anything about this car? A friend of mine is interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-Sprite-Convertible-1968-Austin-H
ealey-Sprite-Green-FULLY-RESTORED_W0QQitemZ320460597774QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_
Cars_Trucks?hash=item4a9cf0aa0e

Cheers,
 Fred
Team Healey Texas

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 11:42:38 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:42:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 68 Sprite on eBay
In-Reply-To: <988A2011C4894CD483ED8A18035DE381@FredLaptop>
References: <988A2011C4894CD483ED8A18035DE381@FredLaptop>
Message-ID: <3EA2DDA3-0C6E-404C-8849-AC9013F9099A@gmail.com>

Don't know the car, but looking at the pictures of the underside and his
statement "Fully restored, perfect condition!" I would walk away.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100M
'55 BN1 Dealer LeMans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com







On Dec 16, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Fred Crowley wrote:

> Does anyone know anything about this car? A friend of mine is interested.

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Wed Dec 16 13:15:45 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:15:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <8CC4CA3AF626934-21C0-947D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>

I also recommend a digital gauge and possibly switching over to nitrogen.
Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes as much as regular air does.
I'm assuming your using the old "stick" type pressure gauges.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 6:51 am
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure


I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
orrect?
If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make a
auge
hat gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
Mark
Healeys at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 13:22:38 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:22:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
Message-ID: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BT7-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9cf1eebcQQitemZ320460680892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1100

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BT7-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9cf1eebcQQitemZ320460680892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1100>
BT7

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BJ8-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9cf1f31bQQitemZ320460682011QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1100

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BJ8-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9cf1f31bQQitemZ320460682011QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1100>BJ8
tag
anyone recognize the number?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 14:12:27 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:12:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003901ca7e94$78aaf5d0$6a00e170$@rr.com>

There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's not
surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BJ8-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewIt
emQQhashZitem4a9cf1f31bQQitemZ320460682011QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ
5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1100>BJ8
tag
anyone recognize the number?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 16 14:15:36 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:15:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <8CC4CA3AF626934-21C0-947D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<8CC4CA3AF626934-21C0-947D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B294DF8.3030401@chello.nl>

Nitrogen is a hype just to earn garages some extra dough. Air consists 
of ca. 80% nitrogen. The rest is oxigen and a tiny bit of other gasses 
like Co2, CO, NxOy, O3 etc. Just check your tires every month using air.
If clean and kept in their protective casing/bag/pouch many of the old 
stick type gauges are quite accurate, but I have not seen those in the 
shops for over 30 years. They were crude but rather effective. Much more 
accurate than most of the plastic dial type gauges.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


bighealey3k at aim.com schreef:
> I also recommend a digital gauge and possibly switching over to nitrogen.
> Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes as much as regular air does.
> I'm assuming your using the old "stick" type pressure gauges.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 6:51 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
>
>
> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
> orrect?
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make a
> auge
> hat gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
> Mark
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bluehealey at googlemail.com  Wed Dec 16 14:25:52 2009
From: bluehealey at googlemail.com (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 21:25:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <003901ca7e94$78aaf5d0$6a00e170$@rr.com>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<003901ca7e94$78aaf5d0$6a00e170$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <40e0020d0912161325p49cebc77kbca629eeab78479e@mail.gmail.com>

But I bet there is one now ready for the day that a 'Phoenix' car
suddenly appears on the road.
%^)

2009/12/16 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>:
> There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's not
> surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
--
  ___________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
        (______     \____1957-BN4____/    _______)
                  (_________________________)

From bighealey at astound.net  Wed Dec 16 14:46:07 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:46:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Tires again
Message-ID: <0FF37D9AA7274810B7C3383EFD4FD13C@Soderling>

Yes, and in addition to excessive wear and poor handling, the excessive flex 
in the sidewalls will generate very high tire heat which can lead to tire 
failure.

Vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at verizon.net>
To: "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again


> Those tire pressures were for the old  bias Ply tires, if you run  that 
> low of a pressure in a steel belted tire you will have excessive  wear and 
> poor handeling/
>
> On Dec 15, 2009, at 7:26 PM, Peter Schauss wrote:
>
>> I have always followed the recommendation in the owner's manual 25#  in 
>> the
>> front and 30# in the rear.  When I got my new tires from Hendrix he
>> recommended 30# on all four.  I tried that, but the car did not  hold the
>> road as well so I dropped the fronts back to 25#.
>>
>> Peter Schauss
>> 1963 BJ7
>> 1980 MGB

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 14:52:34 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:52:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] egine paint in a rattle can
Message-ID: <173126440912161352g7afe0250v18a5dcc78031b206@mail.gmail.com>

 I honestly searched the archive, becasue I thought we went over this
before...
I need a supplier for engine paint 3000 MKI in a spray can. How many to
repaint an engine and tranny with O/D?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 15:15:01 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:15:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <40e0020d0912161325p49cebc77kbca629eeab78479e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<003901ca7e94$78aaf5d0$6a00e170$@rr.com>
	<40e0020d0912161325p49cebc77kbca629eeab78479e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01ca7e9d$36817720$a3846560$@rr.com>

Well, if another car turns up using the VIN HBJ8L/32871, at least it will be
recognizable now as a "Phoenix".

Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:bluehealey at googlemail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 4:26 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay

But I bet there is one now ready for the day that a 'Phoenix' car
suddenly appears on the road.
%^)

2009/12/16 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>:
> There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's not
> surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Dec 16 15:17:20 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:17:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <8CC4CA3AF626934-21C0-947D@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>

Larry,

Does not react to T changes as much as regular air does?  React to it in what way?

Keith Pennell

---- bighealey3k at aim.com wrote: 
> I also recommend a digital gauge and possibly switching over to nitrogen.
> Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes as much as regular air does.
> I'm assuming your using the old "stick" type pressure gauges.
> 
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 6:51 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
> 
> 
> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which one is
> orrect?
> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one would make a
> auge
> hat gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is correct?
> Mark
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 15:30:03 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:30:03 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ok I found the paint at Moss Motors, but......
Message-ID: <173126440912161430wb16d311v47baeee87828d1a0@mail.gmail.com>

17.50 a can, less local 10% purchase,


so how many cans will I need fro engine and tranny?

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From dewolfe at firstam.com  Wed Dec 16 15:42:37 2009
From: dewolfe at firstam.com (Wolfe, Dennis)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:42:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
Message-ID: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>

I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow me to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars. 
Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
Thanks,
Dennis Wolfe
'66 MKIII
****************************************************************************************** 
This message may contain confidential or proprietary information intended only for the use of the 
addressee(s) named above or may contain information that is legally privileged. If you are 
not the intended addressee, or the person responsible for delivering it to the intended addressee, 
you are hereby notified that reading, disseminating, distributing or copying this message is strictly 
prohibited. If you have received this message by mistake, please immediately notify us by  
replying to the message and delete the original message and any copies immediately thereafter. 

Thank you. 
****************************************************************************************** 
FACLD

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 15:46:36 2009
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:46:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] egine paint in a rattle can
In-Reply-To: <173126440912161352g7afe0250v18a5dcc78031b206@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912161352g7afe0250v18a5dcc78031b206@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9baa446a0912161446o7650359ex5b976da3963b3f51@mail.gmail.com>

more than 1, less than 2, so you'll need 2.
cheers,

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:52 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

>  I honestly searched the archive, becasue I thought we went over this
> before...
> I need a supplier for engine paint 3000 MKI in a spray can. How many to
> repaint an engine and tranny with O/D?
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Wed Dec 16 16:02:53 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:02:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
Message-ID: <9095226.1261004573724.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dennis,

I have the 4 post, 110volt lift from American Automotive Products.  It lifts up to 8000 lbs. I like it cause you don't have to bolt it down.  It came with castors for some movement, if needed.  Also came with drip pans and jacking tray.

Because of the 110v setup, it is a bit slow going up but no special wiring was required.  It took about 4 hours to assemble and set up.

It has served me and my Healey buddies well for years.

See link:  http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/  They do run specials from time to time too!

No fincial interest, just a satisfied customer.

John Homonek
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey


-----Original Message-----
>From: "Wolfe, Dennis" <dewolfe at firstam.com>
>Sent: Dec 16, 2009 5:42 PM
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
>
>I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow me to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars. 
>Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
>Thanks,
>Dennis Wolfe
>'66 MKIII
>****************************************************************************************** 
>This message may contain confidential or proprietary information intended only for the use of the 
>addressee(s) named above or may contain information that is legally privileged. If you are 
>not the intended addressee, or the person responsible for delivering it to the intended addressee, 
>you are hereby notified that reading, disseminating, distributing or copying this message is strictly 
>prohibited. If you have received this message by mistake, please immediately notify us by  
>replying to the message and delete the original message and any copies immediately thereafter. 
>
>Thank you. 
>****************************************************************************************** 
>FACLD
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 16 16:04:36 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:04:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <000b01ca7e9d$36817720$a3846560$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <484676.78188.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Same buyer paid $100 each for the ID plates.  Someone must really LOVE old
Brit pieces of stamped metal ;>)

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 12/16/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
To: "'healey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 5:15 PM

Well, if another car turns up using the VIN HBJ8L/32871, at least it will be
recognizable now as a "Phoenix".

Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:bluehealey at googlemail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 4:26 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay

But I bet there is one now ready for the day that a 'Phoenix' car
suddenly appears on the road.
%^)

2009/12/16 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>:
> There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's not
> surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 16:09:36 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:09:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
References: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
Message-ID: <F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>

Since good old air is almost 80% N2, I would venture to guess the  
thermal expansion of N2 and air are very similar.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 16, 2009, at 14:17, <pennell at cox.net> wrote:

> Larry,
>
> Does not react to T changes as much as regular air does?  React to  
> it in what way?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ---- bighealey3k at aim.com wrote:
>> I also recommend a digital gauge and possibly switching over to  
>> nitrogen.
>> Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes as much as regular  
>> air does.
>> I'm assuming your using the old "stick" type pressure gauges.
>>
>> Larry
>> '67 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
>> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
>> Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 6:51 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
>>
>>
>> I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures.   Which  
>> one is
>> orrect?
>> If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one  
>> would make a
>> auge
>> hat gives a correct reading.   And how do we really know what is  
>> correct?
>> Mark
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 16 16:11:37 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:11:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows Wanted
In-Reply-To: <1F9E9BD9B6E54AA996DB0010C85E507A@Edscomputer>
References: <COL121-W56EC0C2C81DBA04B12B655A4880@phx.gbl>
	<1F9E9BD9B6E54AA996DB0010C85E507A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <853F0573-1CB7-49BB-847F-6E7634852F2C@sbcglobal.net>

The early top frames are very hard to find used that have not been  
mangled.  I do have a couple of used ones but they are bent up I have  
one good used one and they also are available new.  We also have the  
rollers available new.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Dec 15, 2009, at 10:18 AM, Ed Woods wrote:

> List,
>
> I'm looking for top bows for an early BN4, the type that are  
> "permanently" attached to the car and have some sort of sliding  
> mechanism incorporated in their action.
>
> Please reply off list.
>
> Ed Woods _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 16:17:34 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:17:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <484676.78188.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <000b01ca7e9d$36817720$a3846560$@rr.com>
	<484676.78188.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912161517y1dcf8748j1e9256bcd7fb74cf@mail.gmail.com>

Or they too shall raise again in new bodies or hot cars.....

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:04 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Same buyer paid $100 each for the ID plates.  Someone must really LOVE old
> Brit pieces of stamped metal ;>)
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Wed, 12/16/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
> To: "'healey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 5:15 PM
>
> Well, if another car turns up using the VIN HBJ8L/32871, at least it will
> be
> recognizable now as a "Phoenix".
>
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:bluehealey at googlemail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 4:26 PM
> To: BJ8 Healeys
> Cc: healey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
>
> But I bet there is one now ready for the day that a 'Phoenix' car
> suddenly appears on the road.
> %^)
>
> 2009/12/16 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>:
> > There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's
> not
> > surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC  USA
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From david at dleong.org  Wed Dec 16 16:24:53 2009
From: david at dleong.org (David Leong)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:24:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
References: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
	<F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801ca7ea6$f9208790$eb6196b0$@org>

The advantage of N2 is that it comes from a tank.

Air from an N2 tank is dry. Ambient air has a lot of moisture. If you could
provide regular air at 0% humidity, it would be just as good.

It is the moisture that affects the predictability of how the tires behave
with temperature, but I doubt anyone not in a racing environment would ever
notice.



Dave 


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Ewald

Since good old air is almost 80% N2, I would venture to guess the  
thermal expansion of N2 and air are very similar.

On Dec 16, 2009, at 14:17, <pennell at cox.net> wrote:

> Larry,
>
> Does not react to T changes as much as regular air does?  React to  
> it in what way?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ---- bighealey3k at aim.com wrote:
>> I also recommend a digital gauge and possibly switching over to  
>> nitrogen.
>> Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes as much as regular  
>> air does.
>> I'm assuming your using the old "stick" type pressure gauges.
>>
>> Larry
>> '67 BJ8

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 16 16:31:04 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:31:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
References: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
Message-ID: <4B296DB8.20009@earthlink.net>

Dennis,

I own two.  Bought one from Greg Smith Equipment 
(http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/).  Nice folks to deal with and one 
of their showrooms is local.  Bought the other one from Super Lifts 
(http://www.superlifts.com).  Like the lift - I can walk underneath it 
(6'9") but I could never get a straight answer as to when it would ship.

Keep in mind that the Healeys aren't very wide, so be sure that the 
lift's main tracks/rails are close enough together.

Bob

Wolfe, Dennis wrote:
> I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow me to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars. 
> Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
> Thanks,
> Dennis Wolfe
> '66 MKIII

From abraund at siue.edu  Wed Dec 16 16:35:00 2009
From: abraund at siue.edu (Dr. B)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:35:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Message-ID: <4B296EA4.5080205@siue.edu>

Rather than make unsubstantiated statements, "Nitrogen doesn't react to 
temperature changes ..." maybe we should look at the scientific data.

 From the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics the thermal coefficient of 
expansion for Air is 0.0036728 while for Nitrogen it is 0.003673. These 
numbers refer to the change in volume per unit volume per degree Celsius 
temperature change. So for a volume of 10 lites (Air vs Nitrogen) 
undergoing a temperature change of 10 C the change in volume is 0.36728 
liters for Air and 0.36730 liters for Nitrogen.

Thus, the statement that Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes 
as much as air is false. And claims by tire manufactures or sellers is 
just that claims, not facts.

Bad science is just like bad math - BAD!

Art Braundmeier
BJ8/43199

-- 
Plagiarism is an academic crime,
 punishable by academic death.

---Tommy Lee Jones as Marshall Sharpe in Man of the House

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 16 16:41:50 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:41:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
References: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
	<F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B29703E.3070800@earthlink.net>

The idea behind using Nitrogen is that it's dry.  Doesn't have the 
humidity/moisture/water that air does.

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 16 16:46:51 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:46:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <173126440912161517y1dcf8748j1e9256bcd7fb74cf@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000b01ca7e9d$36817720$a3846560$@rr.com>
	<484676.78188.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<173126440912161517y1dcf8748j1e9256bcd7fb74cf@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>

O.K., let me end all this speculation.  I told a Healey restorer friend of
mine about the tags and he bought them both with the "buy it now" option.
Don't be surprised if you see them at RM or Barret Jackson sometime in the
future with a Heritage certificate and looking just like the car that they
were on originally.  I think I would rather see a Healey resurrected from an
ID plate in it's original form than just to disappear completely.  And trust
me, this guy is a top notch restorer so maybe it will be a pheonix after
all.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:17 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Or they too shall raise again in new bodies or hot cars.....
>
> On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:04 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Same buyer paid $100 each for the ID plates.  Someone must really LOVE
> old
> > Brit pieces of stamped metal ;>)
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> >
> > --- On Wed, 12/16/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> > From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
> > To: "'healey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 5:15 PM
> >
> > Well, if another car turns up using the VIN HBJ8L/32871, at least it will
> > be
> > recognizable now as a "Phoenix".
> >
> > Happy Healeydays!
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC  USA
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:bluehealey at googlemail.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 4:26 PM
> > To: BJ8 Healeys
> > Cc: healey help
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
> >
> > But I bet there is one now ready for the day that a 'Phoenix' car
> > suddenly appears on the road.
> > %^)
> >
> > 2009/12/16 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>:
> > > There is no record of HBJ8L/32871 in the BJ8 registry, although that's
> > not
> > > surprising if it's true that the car was parted out 35 years ago.
> > >
> > > Steve Byers
> > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > BJ8 Registry
> > > Havelock, NC  USA
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
>
>
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 16:47:09 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:47:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <003801ca7ea6$f9208790$eb6196b0$@org>
References: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
	<F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
	<003801ca7ea6$f9208790$eb6196b0$@org>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912161547q1d80d358iffa86531226b02e6@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know about anybody else, but I have a filter drier on the outlet of
my compressor.  While it might not be quite as dry as tanked N2, it will be
drier than ambient air.
R

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:24 PM, David Leong <david at dleong.org> wrote:

> The advantage of N2 is that it comes from a tank.
>
> Air from an N2 tank is dry. Ambient air has a lot of moisture. If you could
> provide regular air at 0% humidity, it would be just as good.
>
> It is the moisture that affects the predictability of how the tires behave
> with temperature, but I doubt anyone not in a racing environment would ever
> notice.
>
>
>
> Dave

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed Dec 16 16:53:42 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:53:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Message-ID: <007b01ca7eaa$ff53e9f0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

I'm just trying to picture someone banging and clattering down a potholey
gravel road in his fifty-year old solid rear axle Healey with an inch of play
in the steering wheel, all the time thinking "Hmmm, I'd better adjust the
humidity levels for the air in my tires..."

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 16 16:56:28 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:56:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <4B296DB8.20009@earthlink.net>
References: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
	<4B296DB8.20009@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912161556j5bc86f2ay813b3effbd396a90@mail.gmail.com>

I have the Greg Smith Equipment lift in my garage.  My garage is the normal
2 car 8 foot ceiling type and it fits just fine.  My Bugeye will fit on the
runners with the 170/70R13 tires so the inner wall is just flush with the
inside edge of the runners.  Have to be very careful driving it on, but with
the Bugeye on top with it's windscreen up between the 2X4 rafters, the
limiting factor is the garage door.  The door, when open, is located just
over the rear deck of the Bugeye.  I can lift it up just high enough over
one of the detent blocks welded in the upright to let it back down to safely
"lock" it at that heighth and the BN2 will slip under it with the windscreen
folded back.  Not bad for a 8' ceiling, but I cannot get any of my other
cars to go up high enough to do anything other than get under them with a
creeper due to the garage door limitation.  If you have a higher ceiling
your possibilities of servicing any vehicle are much better.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
69 AN5

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:31 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I own two.  Bought one from Greg Smith Equipment (
> http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/).  Nice folks to deal with and one of
> their showrooms is local.  Bought the other one from Super Lifts (
> http://www.superlifts.com).  Like the lift - I can walk underneath it
> (6'9") but I could never get a straight answer as to when it would ship.
>
> Keep in mind that the Healeys aren't very wide, so be sure that the lift's
> main tracks/rails are close enough together.
>
> Bob
>
> Wolfe, Dennis wrote:
>
>> I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow
>> me to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars. Any tips as to features or
>> manufacturers I should look for?
>> Thanks,
>> Dennis Wolfe
>> '66 MKIII

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 16 17:05:59 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:05:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] egine paint in a rattle can
References: <173126440912161352g7afe0250v18a5dcc78031b206@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004c01ca7eac$b6e005d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

You may already have your answer but the Bill Hirsch Auto Products carrys 
the Healey Green Engine paint.
Qts.or Aerosol can.   I paid  31.00 plus 9.00 ship in 2004 for a Qt. 
www.hirschauto.com     It looks good
and will stick well even to a lightly rusted block.   I had my Qt. broken 
down into 2 cans by a local paint shop and that was plenty and I have plenty 
left over in the Qt.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 4:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] egine paint in a rattle can


> I honestly searched the archive, becasue I thought we went over this
> before...
> I need a supplier for engine paint 3000 MKI in a spray can. How many to
> repaint an engine and tranny with O/D?
>
> -- 
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 17:13:33 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 00:13:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1947309626.279091261008813785.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Won't that be problematic if the car has previously been 'officially' scrapped? 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



O.K., let me end all this speculation. I told a Healey restorer friend of 
mine about the tags and he bought them both with the "buy it now" option. 
Don't be surprised if you see them at RM or Barret Jackson sometime in the 
future with a Heritage certificate and looking just like the car that they 
were on originally. I think I would rather see a Healey resurrected from an 
ID plate in it's original form than just to disappear completely. And trust 
me, this guy is a top notch restorer so maybe it will be a pheonix after 
all. 
Mike MacLean 
56 BN2 
60 AN5 

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Wed Dec 16 17:13:46 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:13:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
References: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAPfGOnUsXzBOssGY9g+ziTYBAAAAAA==@cox.net>

Dennis:
Based upon my 67 BJ8, I'd get a lift with a solid floor with sides like a
turkey basting pan or your car underneath will be covered in various fluids
:-)
Ron
---------------------------
I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow me
to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars. 
Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
Thanks,
Dennis Wolfe
'66 MKIII

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 17:15:01 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:15:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <007b01ca7eaa$ff53e9f0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <007b01ca7eaa$ff53e9f0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912161615k638903f8p78415563fa136cc8@mail.gmail.com>

Nigel Shiftright is that you?

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 3:53 PM, Peter Svilans <peter.svilans at rogers.com>wrote:

> I'm just trying to picture someone banging and clattering down a potholey
> gravel road in his fifty-year old solid rear axle Healey with an inch of
> play
> in the steering wheel, all the time thinking "Hmmm, I'd better adjust the
> humidity levels for the air in my tires..."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 17:23:26 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:23:26 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <007b01ca7eaa$ff53e9f0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <007b01ca7eaa$ff53e9f0$6401a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <9BC3306E9A7445F7878C8123C2A5E7FF@GregPC>

My reading and understanding the primmary benefit of nitrogen is that the 
molecules are bigger than oxygen molecules, so you get much less microscopic 
"seepage" and pressure stays up longer, maybe not as big a deal to those of 
us with a garage full of tools and the ability and inclination to use them, 
but for the drive it and only look at it when something goes wrong person 
with a modern car maybe a good thing.

Secondly, no oxygen no internal oxydation of the tires/wheels, don't know if 
this is that big an issue.

Lastly, I agree with Peter, don;t think most people will notice a differnce 
in driving or performance or tire life/wear.

Greg Lemon 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 17:23:45 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:23:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Message-ID: <48720d20912161623w8380bfei961bb46a36c8b4c2@mail.gmail.com>

No one has mentioned that changing the front /rear ration changes the
handling characteristics. This was needed on two of my cars with serious
over steer. One was a short wheelbase Post Office Jeep, and the other my
MGC, whose handling characteristics are poor at best.

For both of them I had to have higher pressure in the front than in the
rear. Same goes if you want quicker steering. You put more pressure in the
rear tires.

Note that in the pressure chart, there is a front/rear ratio, not the same
pressure all 'round.

Is anyone an expert on this? It probably could use a better explanation.

Jack

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 16 17:28:14 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:28:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <1947309626.279091261008813785.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>
	<1947309626.279091261008813785.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912161628m68bdf17nc028e1270415a122@mail.gmail.com>

It has been off the DMV rolls for 35 years.  There has been no record of it
all that time.  Since DMVs in the US have been computerized, any record that
old no longer exists.  I see no problem and it won't be the first time he
has done this.  ALL the restorers that sell at auction do this.  How many
big Healey project cars do you think are left any way?  The endless supply
by Tanner and others has to come from somewhere.  A restorer looking for a
higher profit margin takes this route all the time and sells it to the kind
of buyer you see at the auctions that knows nothing of Healeys, except it is
a pretty, shiny car his young girlfriend wants.  After they figure out the
kind of work it takes to keep a car like this running, it goes back on the
market, hopefully to someone that can appreciate and for a better price.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 4:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Won't that be problematic if the car has previously been 'officially'
> scrapped?
>
>
> bs
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
>
> O.K., let me end all this speculation.  I told a Healey restorer friend of
> mine about the tags and he bought them both with the "buy it now" option.
> Don't be surprised if you see them at RM or Barret Jackson sometime in the
> future with a Heritage certificate and looking just like the car that they
> were on originally.  I think I would rather see a Healey resurrected from
> an
> ID plate in it's original form than just to disappear completely.  And
> trust
> me, this guy is a top notch restorer so maybe it will be a pheonix after
> all.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 16 17:31:07 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:31:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAPfGOnUsXzBOssGY9g+ziTYBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
References: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAPfGOnUsXzBOssGY9g+ziTYBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912161631s32a265f7y495bfef8c86c0044@mail.gmail.com>

Most of the lifts come with a plastic drip tray that slides under the
offending area of the upper car on the horizontal lips at the bottom of the
runners.  I bought two extra trays with my lift and it covers the entire
length of my Bugeye and then some.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 4:13 PM, Ron Davies <rdavies1 at cox.net> wrote:

> Dennis:
> Based upon my 67 BJ8, I'd get a lift with a solid floor with sides like a
> turkey basting pan or your car underneath will be covered in various fluids
> :-)
> Ron
> ---------------------------
> I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow me
> to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars.
> Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
> Thanks,
> Dennis Wolfe
> '66 MKIII
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyron at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 16 17:51:59 2009
From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:51:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
Message-ID: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

While attending Encounter this year I had a leaking Rear Wheel Cylinder cause
a complete Brake Failure while backing out of a downhill parking place at the
Hotel.  The result was $4700 damage to the rear of my MkII BN7 caused by the
Stone Wall that didn't move when I hit it.  I know the first thing your going
to reply is why I didn't use the Parking Brake to stop before hitting the
wall.  I was in the process of doing that when the impact occurred.

I'm
contemplating converting to a Dual Brake system.  My question is has any one
on this list knowledge of a proper dia. and stroke Master Cylinder that will
function on a Healey with Manual  Disc Brake Fronts and  Drum Brake Rears?  I
did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual System
but wasn't able to find the owner to enquire as to the source for his
components.  I've also heard that someone in Texas has done this but I haven't
been able to find out who.  

Any information either off list or on list would
be appreciated.

Ron M.

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 16 18:20:46 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 01:20:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>

You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy a
set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for about
$35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination you
like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title based upon
some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought the tag
for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor

> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:22:38 -0800
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BT7-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItem
QQhashZitem4a9cf1eebcQQitemZ320460680892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA
ccessories#ht_500wt_1100
>
> anyone recognize the number?
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
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From dpaye at crocker.com  Wed Dec 16 19:42:09 2009
From: dpaye at crocker.com (Donald Paye)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:42:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] garage lift
Message-ID: <64F47BD1A0B443829766F2E5B11CD778@DonaldPayePC>

Bob,

I installed a "MaxJax" manufactured by Dannmar in my garage this summer. I
looked into all the various kinds and am very pleased with this 2 post unit.
First of all the lift takes up very little room in comparison to a four post
unit. The whole system is portable once the five bolts holding each column are
removed. The columns are each equipped with casters so as to allow storage
against the wall of your garage when not needed. The maximum lift is 48" which
pretty much is maximum for most garages before you start crushing the
windshield against the rafters/floor joists overhead. (Not sure if this is
enough to allow a Healey to be driven underneath) I like the fact that with
this type of lift you can remove the wheels and also you have full access to
the underneath of the car without ramps in the way. Installation was very
basic. You have to borrow or rent a hammer drill to install 10 sizable
expansion anchors in the floor. When bolts are removed and column moved,
anchors are flush with floor surface. Check out www.maxjaxlifts.com for more
details.

Good luck..   Don Paye

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 18:47:22 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:47:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <173126440912161747t6d5d1fb4s476287fd0dbcc9ce@mail.gmail.com>

there are states (Georgia) that will issue titles to cars with lost
paperwork. One can wash a car thru a number of states.

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 5:20 PM, richard mayor
<mayorrichard at hotmail.com>wrote:

>  You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy
> a set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for
about
> $35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination
> you like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title
based
> upon some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought
> the tag for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor
>
> > From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> > Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 12:22:38 -0800
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
>
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-BT7-ID-TAG_W0QQcmdZViewItem
QQhashZitem4a9cf1eebcQQitemZ320460680892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA
ccessories#ht_500wt_1100
> >
> > anyone recognize the number?
> >
> > --
> > I Erbs
> > Portland, OR
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
> ------------------------------
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. Sign up
> now. <http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/>
>



--
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 19:49:28 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:49:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B299C38.9070505@comcast.net>

Thanks, Richard.  That's what I suspected.

Bob


richard mayor wrote:
> You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy a
> set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for about
> $35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination you
> like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title based upon
> some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought the tag
> for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor
>
>   

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 19:57:44 2009
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 02:57:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <4B299C38.9070505@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1586692135.2300991261018664851.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Here in NH all you need on a car 10 years old or more is a bill of sale to register it.  No title required.


> You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy a
> set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for about
> $35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination you
> like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title based upon
> some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought the tag
> for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor
>
>   

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Dec 16 20:07:31 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 03:07:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?id_tags?=
Message-ID: <20091217030731.9247.qmail@server278.com>


From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Dec 16 20:09:22 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 03:09:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?id_tags?=
Message-ID: <20091217030922.10878.qmail@server278.com>

i have seen ads in car magazines where they advertise they can get a title for your car.  never had any dealings so do not know what parameters they need for the title, but they must be doing it for enough people to pay the advertising bill.   hjim

From sales at justbrits.com  Wed Dec 16 20:51:11 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 21:51:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <4B299C38.9070505@comcast.net>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
	<4B299C38.9070505@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B29AAAF.5000005@justbrits.com>

/TM262E: Permission denied

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed Dec 16 20:57:03 2009
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
Message-ID: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>

I live in Southern California, AKA earthquake country.  I have a four post
lift that, like most four post lifts, does not have to be bolted down.  One
concern I have, however, is what happens to a car on the lift and a car below
the lift in the case of an earthquake.  Seems to me that a moderately strong
earthquake could topple a lift leaving both the top and bottom cars in a bad
state.  But, just bolting a lift down would not seem to be enough.  Unless the
bolts extended well into a deep footing, I would think a moderately strong
earthquake would pull the bolts out of the ground.  Does anyone have any ideas
as to how to earthquake-proof a lift?

Bill Wilkman
BT7

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Dec 16 21:19:49 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 23:19:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <02b501ca7ed0$2c9a7da0$85cf78e0$@net>

Why not ask at one of your local repair shop what they do? Especially in the
San Fernando Valley where I believe the last big one was???

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts

I live in Southern California, AKA earthquake country.  I have a four post
lift that, like most four post lifts, does not have to be bolted down.  One
concern I have, however, is what happens to a car on the lift and a car
below
the lift in the case of an earthquake.  Seems to me that a moderately strong
earthquake could topple a lift leaving both the top and bottom cars in a bad
state.  But, just bolting a lift down would not seem to be enough.  Unless
the
bolts extended well into a deep footing, I would think a moderately strong
earthquake would pull the bolts out of the ground.  Does anyone have any
ideas
as to how to earthquake-proof a lift?

Bill Wilkman
BT7
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 16 21:25:36 2009
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 04:25:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS6A9A888A838EDBD3640FBBF860@phx.gbl>

Ummm, make them out of wood so they flex ? Beware of treehuggers, I know...
RVC of Ky
BN7 440
And a self installed  4 poster by Rotary in the garage
------Original Message------
From: John Sims
To: wilkmanracing at aol.com
To:
healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
Sent: Dec
16, 2009 22:19

Why not ask at one of your local repair shop what they do?
Especially in the
 San Fernando Valley where I believe the last big one was???
John Sims, BN6
 Aberdeen, NJ
  
 http://www.healey6.com
<http://www.healey6.com> 
 
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From:
healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ]
 On Behalf Of wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:57 PM
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
 
 I live in Southern California, AKA
earthquake country.  I have a four post
 lift that, like most four post lifts,
does not have to be bolted down.  One
 concern I have, however, is what
happens to a car on the lift and a car
 below
 the lift in the case of an
earthquake.  Seems to me that a moderately strong
 earthquake could topple a
lift leaving both the top and bottom cars in a bad
 state.  But, just bolting
a lift down would not seem to be enough.  Unless
 the
 bolts extended well
into a deep footing, I would think a moderately strong
 earthquake would pull
the bolts out of the ground.  Does anyone have any
 ideas
 as to how to
earthquake-proof a lift?
 
 Bill Wilkman
 BT7
 Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> 
 
 You are subscribed as
ahbn6 at verizon.net
 
 http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> 
 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 16 21:33:35 2009
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 04:33:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS5C56DF72DE6B4B41C082BBF860@phx.gbl>

I had nitrogen in my Porsche track car; still had significant pressure
increase from tire Kemps. Went back to normal air.
My vote: Nitrogen doesn't work as sold.  I started with both new tires and
vacuumed tires with no difference. Still had high temp pressure increases.
Richard of Ky
BN7 440
------Original Message------
From: Dr. B
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Pressure
Sent: Dec 16, 2009 17:35

Rather than make unsubstantiated statements, "Nitrogen doesn't react to
 temperature changes ..." maybe we should look at the scientific data.

  From the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics the thermal coefficient of
 expansion for Air is 0.0036728 while for Nitrogen it is 0.003673. These
 numbers refer to the change in volume per unit volume per degree Celsius
 temperature change. So for a volume of 10 lites (Air vs Nitrogen)
 undergoing a temperature change of 10 C the change in volume is 0.36728
 liters for Air and 0.36730 liters for Nitrogen.

 Thus, the statement that Nitrogen doesn't react to temperature changes
 as much as air is false. And claims by tire manufactures or sellers is
 just that claims, not facts.

 Bad science is just like bad math - BAD!

 Art Braundmeier
 BJ8/43199

 --
 ?Plagiarism is an academic crime,
  punishable by academic death.?

 ---Tommy Lee Jones as Marshall Sharpe in Man of the House
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

 Healeys at autox.team.net
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From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Wed Dec 16 21:38:04 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 23:38:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <1586692135.2300991261018664851.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1586692135.2300991261018664851.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3118DD4A-CCF1-46C2-B157-39BD971FB185@cgocable.ca>

         He bought it just for the kick of it , vintage tags for
vintage cars this way we will see on the ad: match number car with 50
mi. since restoration with california plate and 3 owner since
new  .......for the modique sum of 60K.

Gilbert

looking for 100 M at reasonable price...........dreaming


Le 09-12-16 ` 21:57, m.brouillette at comcast.net a icrit :

> Here in NH all you need on a car 10 years old or more is a bill of
> sale to register it.  No title required.
>
>
>> You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You
>> can buy a
>> set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original
>> for about
>> $35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number
>> combination you
>> like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title
>> based upon
>> some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that
>> bought the tag
>> for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as comkanuk at cgocable.ca
>
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From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Dec 16 21:52:39 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:52:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminium Radiators
Message-ID: <ECE04780CD95415A90481D637E516C7E@PaulPC>

Anybody know of a North American source for Alum radiators for a BJ8 ?

 

Thanks

Paul

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 21:56:59 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:56:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <02b501ca7ed0$2c9a7da0$85cf78e0$@net>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
	<02b501ca7ed0$2c9a7da0$85cf78e0$@net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912162056y129d4887l5654e9961067fbc4@mail.gmail.com>

I'm a service manager at a large dealership in Southern California.  We use
twin post hoists, not 4 posters but the issues are the similar.
The Sears in Northridge used to leave all their cars all the way up in the
air so the cleaning crew could clean under them every night.  From what I
heard when the quake hit in 1994 the cars on those racks went down
like dominoes.  It is my understanding they lost 9 cars that night. Now I
don't know if these were all in ground hoists or above ground units.
About anchoring hoists, to bolt down a twin post hoist requires a 6" slab.
 Most if not all residential garages have a 4" slab.  The solution is to cut
out a section about 4 feet by 2' wider than the lift and pour a 6" slab in
that area.  So if your hoist legs are 10 feet apart, the slab would be 4X12.
(had to do that with more than one hoist installation)  But since these 4
post hoists are designed to work without bolting to the floor, you might be
able to get by with just the 4" slab.  Consult the hoist maker for more
info.
In the event of a quake the size of Northridge or above, I would want a
hoist anchored to the floor.  The movement in that quake, at my house, was
more vertical than it was horizontal.  My water heater walked away from the
wall at the bottom (it was anchored at the top) and it wound up at a 30
degree angle.  I would be afraid that a 4 post lift could walk and hit the
car underneath, or the legs might spread and possibly collapse.  I don't
think that the top car falling is much of an issue for these type of hoists.
 With a single or a twin post I would have that concern.
In closing let me pass along what I tell all of my techs to do in the event
of an earthquake.
RUN! get the hell out from under the cars, and get clear.
Hope this helps.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 8:19 PM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> Why not ask at one of your local repair shop what they do? Especially in
> the
> San Fernando Valley where I believe the last big one was???
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Wed Dec 16 22:23:02 2009
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 00:23:02 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
Message-ID: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>

I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in  
storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering if  
perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have  advice?
 
Thanks,
Phil 

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 22:41:30 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 21:41:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Radiators
In-Reply-To: <5caeedb50912162139r69c1211cm451c109acda99311@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5caeedb50912162139r69c1211cm451c109acda99311@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50912162141o1415a873od9b0fdd9180c44c7@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.rondavisradiators.com

i got aluminum  rad for my 1967 E type FHC.

both my BJ8 and my XK 150 have new four row units inside the original
top and bottom. this technology is very good and it looks stock. made
in the local rad shop.
my BJ8 runs at 160 all day long. i also replaced the water pump and
have a "desert fan"
ron rader
Los Angeles

1965 BJ8 (for Sale)
1967 E type FHC

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 8:52 PM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Anybody know of a North American source for Alum radiators for a BJ8 ?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as f.ronald.rader at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Dec 16 22:56:45 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 00:56:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <972B95AE-C54E-4278-9A75-C6DD4A76DABD@mac.com>

Have you recently cut off your teenager's gas allowance for his car?

Al Malin



On Dec 17, 2009, at 12:23 AM, philritten at aol.com wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car  
> is in
> storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm  
> wondering if
> perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone  
> have  advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 23:02:49 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:02:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912162202n53e9f113rdba51d7ccb77fa61@mail.gmail.com>

Rather than looking for a new gas cap, I think you should be looking for a
guy with an Oklahoma credit card (a 3' long hose).
I have never heard of that amount of gas evaporating in a week even if the
cap is off.  And the cap on your car had better be venting, or there will be
problems.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM, <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering if
> perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
>  advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Dec 16 23:14:50 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:14:50 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52E307B0B3FF40429ACE3D63F008AC45@PeterPC>

G'day Ron

I had to put dual circuit brakes on my V6 engined BN1 for compliance here in 
Oz. the car has original (5 stud) drums on the rear, Wolseley 6/110 discs on 
the fornt (calipers are similar to 3000) I've used a Datsun 240/260/280Z 
master cylinder (7/8" bore) with a booster acting on the front only. 
Although I have yet to use the car in anger, all seems to work pretty well 
so far.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey Mailing List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 10:51 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System


> While attending Encounter this year I had a leaking Rear Wheel Cylinder 
> cause
> a complete Brake Failure while backing out of a downhill parking place at 
> the
> Hotel.  The result was $4700 damage to the rear of my MkII BN7 caused by 
> the
> Stone Wall that didn't move when I hit it.  I know the first thing your 
> going
> to reply is why I didn't use the Parking Brake to stop before hitting the
> wall.  I was in the process of doing that when the impact occurred.
>
> I'm
> contemplating converting to a Dual Brake system.  My question is has any 
> one
> on this list knowledge of a proper dia. and stroke Master Cylinder that 
> will
> function on a Healey with Manual  Disc Brake Fronts and  Drum Brake Rears? 
> I
> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual System
> but wasn't able to find the owner to enquire as to the source for his
> components.  I've also heard that someone in Texas has done this but I 
> haven't
> been able to find out who.
>
> Any information either off list or on list would
> be appreciated.
>
> Ron M.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as greylinn at ozemail.com.au
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 16 23:32:05 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 07:32:05 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <4B29703E.3070800@earthlink.net>
References: <20091216171720.DPNQF.216666.imail@eastrmwml47>
	<F5B12225-EEA8-4AD7-8A89-C58247D082E5@gmail.com>
	<4B29703E.3070800@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B29D065.2000503@chello.nl>

I heard another claim for using nitrogen. The nitrogen molecules do not 
travel through the rubber, oxygen molecules do, so if you use nitrogen, 
your tire pressure should remain constant.
A load of bollucks!!.
The only valid claim may be that it may be dryer, however I very much 
doubt if anyone would notice a difference. I do not know how it is 
produced and I would not trust off hand that the water content is not 
much the same as in the air it was produced from.
As for condensation in the tires, I have never ever seen water inside a 
tube or tire, not from a car, not from a bike, not from a motor bike.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Bob Haskell schreef:
> The idea behind using Nitrogen is that it's dry.  Doesn't have the 
> humidity/moisture/water that air does.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 16 23:33:39 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 07:33:39 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000b01ca7e9d$36817720$a3846560$@rr.com>
	<484676.78188.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<173126440912161517y1dcf8748j1e9256bcd7fb74cf@mail.gmail.com>
	<d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B29D0C3.4020006@chello.nl>

They can also surface in a stolen car!!!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef:
> O.K., let me end all this speculation.  I told a Healey restorer friend of
> mine about the tags and he bought them both with the "buy it now" option.
> Don't be surprised if you see them at RM or Barret Jackson sometime in the
> future with a Heritage certificate and looking just like the car that they
> were on originally.  I think I would rather see a Healey resurrected from an
> ID plate in it's original form than just to disappear completely.  And trust
> me, this guy is a top notch restorer so maybe it will be a pheonix after
> all.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 16 23:50:41 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 07:50:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B29D4C1.50107@chello.nl>

Watch the storage keeper.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PhilRitten at aol.com schreef:
> I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in  
> storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering if  
> perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have  advice?
>  
> Thanks,
> Phil 
> _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 00:02:28 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 15:02:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912162302hdf0fc3ct14905db12dbd3fa8@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

The easiest solution is to get a tandem master cylinder.  Wilwood makes one
which will fit in the standard hole. I don't recall the standard bore, but I
think wilwood makes them in a couple different bore sizes.  This one is a 1"
bore:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Wilwood-Combination-Remote-Tandem-Master-Cylinder-p-2322.html

With the tandem cylinder, the plumbing is simpler, and there is no
modification necessary to the pedal box.
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Ron Mitchell <healeyron at yahoo.com> wrote:

> While attending Encounter this year I had a leaking Rear Wheel Cylinder
> cause
> a complete Brake Failure while backing out of a downhill parking place at
> the
> Hotel.  The result was $4700 damage to the rear of my MkII BN7 caused by
> the
> Stone Wall that didn't move when I hit it.  I know the first thing your
> going
> to reply is why I didn't use the Parking Brake to stop before hitting the
> wall.  I was in the process of doing that when the impact occurred.
>
> I'm
> contemplating converting to a Dual Brake system.  My question is has any
> one
> on this list knowledge of a proper dia. and stroke Master Cylinder that
> will
> function on a Healey with Manual  Disc Brake Fronts and  Drum Brake Rears?
>  I
> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual System
> but wasn't able to find the owner to enquire as to the source for his
> components.  I've also heard that someone in Texas has done this but I
> haven't
> been able to find out who.
>
> Any information either off list or on list would
> be appreciated.
>
> Ron M.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 05:33:05 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 13:33:05 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250912170433u2d44a44t9a5af7a91a070df9@mail.gmail.com>

Buy a cap which you can lock (and keep the key for yourself)
Jack

2009/12/17 <PhilRitten at aol.com>

> I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering if
> perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
>  advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rpmengr at bellsouth.net  Thu Dec 17 06:29:33 2009
From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:29:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <4B2A323D.8060800@bellsouth.net>

Try Griffin Radiators in South Carolina. Very good.
Bob Memler

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Thu Dec 17 06:32:13 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:32:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAPfGOnUsXzBOssGY9g+ziTYBAAAAAA==@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20091217133211.E8A4F18788C@autox.team.net>

I have been storing my BJ7 on a four post lift with my MGB underneath (or
vice versa) every winter for more than 10 years.  I use several partial
sheets of scrap plywood between the ramps to catch the oil drips from
whichever car is on top.  I have never had a problem with oil dripping onto
the car on the bottom.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Davies
> Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 7:14 PM
> To: 'Wolfe, Dennis'; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage lift
> 
> Dennis:
> Based upon my 67 BJ8, I'd get a lift with a solid floor with sides like a
> turkey basting pan or your car underneath will be covered in various
> fluids
> :-)
> Ron
> ---------------------------
> I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to allow
> me
> to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars.
> Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
> Thanks,
> Dennis Wolfe
> '66 MKIII
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 17 06:36:31 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:36:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912161628m68bdf17nc028e1270415a122@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d49b03130912161546l722a3856i9e406469d66598f@mail.gmail.com>
	<1947309626.279091261008813785.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<d49b03130912161628m68bdf17nc028e1270415a122@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca7f1d$f1bb3f00$d531bd00$@rr.com>

If a future buyer of the car happens to check in with the BJ8 registry,
he/she is going to learn that the car they bought is not the car they
thought it was.  In my experience, such buyers are not happy with that
experience.

There are some states (North Carolina is one) that do still have DMV records
that old.  


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 7:28 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: healey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay

It has been off the DMV rolls for 35 years.  There has been no record of it
all that time.  Since DMVs in the US have been computerized, any record that
old no longer exists.  I see no problem and it won't be the first time he
has done this.  ALL the restorers that sell at auction do this.  How many
big Healey project cars do you think are left any way?  The endless supply
by Tanner and others has to come from somewhere.  A restorer looking for a
higher profit margin takes this route all the time and sells it to the kind
of buyer you see at the auctions that knows nothing of Healeys, except it is
a pretty, shiny car his young girlfriend wants.  After they figure out the
kind of work it takes to keep a car like this running, it goes back on the
market, hopefully to someone that can appreciate and for a better price.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 4:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Won't that be problematic if the car has previously been 'officially'
> scrapped?
>
>
> bs
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
>
> O.K., let me end all this speculation.  I told a Healey restorer friend of
> mine about the tags and he bought them both with the "buy it now" option.
> Don't be surprised if you see them at RM or Barret Jackson sometime in the
> future with a Heritage certificate and looking just like the car that they
> were on originally.  I think I would rather see a Healey resurrected from
> an
> ID plate in it's original form than just to disappear completely.  And
> trust
> me, this guy is a top notch restorer so maybe it will be a pheonix after
> all.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 17 06:42:00 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:42:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000d01ca7f1e$b5b5afd0$21210f70$@rr.com>

Well, it's possible to get a title for a car that shouldn't have one.  There
has been at least one car I know of offered by a well-known restorer at the
Barrett-Jackson auction that was claiming a VIN number that is recorded as
scrapped in the BJ8 registry.  I would assume that he was able to get a
title with that number.

I've never seen a "home-made" replacement VIN tag that looked anywhere near
the factory original.  They are pretty obvious when they turn up, and are
the first thing that make me suspicious of the identity of a car.

Steve Byers
HB8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 8:21 PM
To: eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay

You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy a
set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for about
$35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination
you
like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title based
upon
some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought the
tag
for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Thu Dec 17 06:42:56 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 13:42:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <4B29D4C1.50107@chello.nl>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>,<4B29D4C1.50107@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W62D7713134CCCBA14B209B8860@phx.gbl>

I think it will stop by itself in about 3 weeks ... :)



Maybe you should put sugar in the gas tank and plan to clean it out in the
spring before firing up your car!!!  :)


I would suspect that someone is accessing your car like others have
mentioned.

Look into a motion activated camera?  I think that deer hunting places sell
them.



> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 07:50:41 +0100
>
> PhilRitten at aol.com schreef:
> > I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> > storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering
if
> > perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
advice?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Phil

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 07:18:50 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:18:50 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912170618l2b701a32w4a792c3f787bcc81@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

I'm originally an engineer from Berzerkeley where we study these
things, and spent 6 years working for Bechtel.

There is two ways to do this - keep it loose or anchor it down with guy wires.

You don't want to just bolt the posts to the floor - with up to two
tons six foot in the air that's potentially enough weight to break
most welds with lots of shaking - in some ways if you just left it on
the wheels it'd probably just roll around rather than topple over if
you bolted 'er down.

There are actually many buidings in Tokyo that have floating/rolling
foundations for this very reason - loose at ground level is great for
stopping things from toppling over.

The best thing to do, however, is to get guy wires and turnbuckles and
connect them to the top of all four posts then bolt the other end of
the wire to the floor, preferably with the wire at a 45 deg angle to
level (but any angle past ~ 70 deg to level isn't as good) .  This is
the best protection to keep the lot from falling over and how many old
masonry buldings are shored up to withstand quakes.  The guy wires are
good because you can easily loosen them and move the lift around if
necessary.

Alan

On 12/17/09, wilkmanracing at aol.com <wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:
> I live in Southern California, AKA earthquake country.  I have a four post
> lift that, like most four post lifts, does not have to be bolted down.  One
> concern I have, however, is what happens to a car on the lift and a car
> below
> the lift in the case of an earthquake.  Seems to me that a moderately strong
> earthquake could topple a lift leaving both the top and bottom cars in a bad
> state.  But, just bolting a lift down would not seem to be enough.  Unless
> the
> bolts extended well into a deep footing, I would think a moderately strong
> earthquake would pull the bolts out of the ground.  Does anyone have any
> ideas
> as to how to earthquake-proof a lift?
>
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 07:24:35 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:24:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912170624l5388ae0g996d0e4e8747fcee@mail.gmail.com>

Phil -

If you open the boot and smell gas inside, you probably have a pinhole
leak in the bottom of your tank and it's leaking inside the boot.
Most of the bottom of the tank sits on the boot floor and is prone to
corrosion as a result.

Take the tank out and have it pressure tested a gas tank specialist
can repair it or get a new tank...

Also check the filler tube rubber hose for leaks, that's cheaper to fix!

Alan

On 12/17/09, PhilRitten at aol.com <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:
> I seem to be losing a couple of gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering if
> perhaps my gas cap could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
> advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From scvc70 at epix.net  Thu Dec 17 08:38:11 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:38:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
References: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0912162302hdf0fc3ct14905db12dbd3fa8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E3C97EE8D35B495C9064ADD9622697A6@computer624080>

Several years ago there was an exchange on the list about a dual M.C. 
conversion for a 100, and the recommendation was to use a Fiat X 1/9 master 
cylinder.  Has anyone out there tried this one?  (We'll be getting to that 
point in our restoration in a few months, we hope!)

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Ron Mitchell" <healeyron at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey Mailing List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System


> Ron -
>
> The easiest solution is to get a tandem master cylinder.  Wilwood makes 
> one
> which will fit in the standard hole. I don't recall the standard bore, but 
> I
> think wilwood makes them in a couple different bore sizes.  This one is a 
> 1"
> bore:
>
> http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Wilwood-Combination-Remote-Tandem-Master-Cylinder-p-2322.html
>
> With the tandem cylinder, the plumbing is simpler, and there is no
> modification necessary to the pedal box.
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Ron Mitchell <healeyron at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> While attending Encounter this year I had a leaking Rear Wheel Cylinder
>> cause
>> a complete Brake Failure while backing out of a downhill parking place at
>> the
>> Hotel.  The result was $4700 damage to the rear of my MkII BN7 caused by
>> the
>> Stone Wall that didn't move when I hit it.  I know the first thing your
>> going
>> to reply is why I didn't use the Parking Brake to stop before hitting the
>> wall.  I was in the process of doing that when the impact occurred.
>>
>> I'm
>> contemplating converting to a Dual Brake system.  My question is has any
>> one
>> on this list knowledge of a proper dia. and stroke Master Cylinder that
>> will
>> function on a Healey with Manual  Disc Brake Fronts and  Drum Brake 
>> Rears?
>>  I
>> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual System
>> but wasn't able to find the owner to enquire as to the source for his
>> components.  I've also heard that someone in Texas has done this but I
>> haven't
>> been able to find out who.
>>
>> Any information either off list or on list would
>> be appreciated.
>>
>> Ron M.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as scvc70 at epix.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Thu Dec 17 08:45:07 2009
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:45:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage lift
In-Reply-To: <4B296DB8.20009@earthlink.net>
References: <2B5EBC9467003642BF9286530F11953934A640@TINCSNA09VXCH01.corp.firstam.com>
	<4B296DB8.20009@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BDB4@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Dennis,

Bob Haskell and I live close to each other and find the lifts in our
respective garages a god send when working on the cars. I added on my
extra two car garage in 2003 and dropped it 16 inches deeper and raised
the ceiling so it is closer to 11 feet. Due to lot lines restrictions,
the depth is not as great as I wanted, only 20 feet.  So, when I have a
car pulled forward, the door cannot come up all the way, just enough
clearance for the Bj8 under and any of the other (Healeys) cars to fit

We finished a BN4 resto in 2005 and are working now on a 100. I do not
know what I would do without it. Since Bob is 6'9" his is a little too
tall for me but we work it out. (so is the top of his tool box!)

Mine came from Greg Smith also and they delivered and set up for $600. I
also added one in my daughter and son-in-laws third bay for the Mustang
GT Convertible.

Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 6:31 PM
To: Wolfe, Dennis
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage lift

Dennis,

I own two.  Bought one from Greg Smith Equipment
(http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/).  Nice folks to deal with and one
of their showrooms is local.  Bought the other one from Super Lifts
(http://www.superlifts.com).  Like the lift - I can walk underneath it
(6'9") but I could never get a straight answer as to when it would ship.

Keep in mind that the Healeys aren't very wide, so be sure that the
lift's main tracks/rails are close enough together.

Bob

Wolfe, Dennis wrote:
> I'm looking to purchase an electric car lift for my home garage to
allow me to store my BJ8 above one of my other cars.
> Any tips as to features or manufacturers I should look for?
> Thanks,
> Dennis Wolfe
> '66 MKIII
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jimf at frakes-eng.com

http://www.team.net/archive


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From philritten at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 08:44:52 2009
From: philritten at aol.com (philritten at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:44:52 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
Message-ID: <8dac.5389a468.385babf4@aol.com>

All,
 
The car is in a padlocked garage, with an older locking gas cap (and  no 
teenagers). That's why I'm so puzzled. There is no smell of gas in the trunk,  
and no sign of leakage (under the car or at the fuel pump).
 
Phil
 
 
In a message dated 12/16/2009 10:03:32 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

Rather  than looking for a new gas cap, I think you should be looking for a
guy  with an Oklahoma credit card (a 3' long hose).
I have never heard of that  amount of gas evaporating in a week even if the
cap is off.  And the  cap on your car had better be venting, or there will  
be
problems.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM,  <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple of  gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any  fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering 
if
> perhaps my gas cap  could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
>   advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are  subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  philritten at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From pieters at pt.lu  Thu Dec 17 08:46:53 2009
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:46:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912162302hdf0fc3ct14905db12dbd3fa8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <826263.2224.qm@web32906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0912162302hdf0fc3ct14905db12dbd3fa8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B37B46A8-C695-4EE4-932B-A02C3E037225@pt.lu>

I have the wilwood  1" bore tandem master cylinder in my BJ7 combined  
with four pot front calipers and rear discs. It is a straight bolt in  
fit and easy to plumb but the pedal pressure is high. I would recomend  
a 7/8 bore. I am fitting a tandem brake booster over the winter so we  
will see what the pedal pressure is like then,
cheers
Pieter
On 17/12/2009, at 8:02 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

> Ron -
>
> The easiest solution is to get a tandem master cylinder.  Wilwood  
> makes one
> which will fit in the standard hole. I don't recall the standard  
> bore, but I
> think wilwood makes them in a couple different bore sizes.  This one  
> is a 1"
> bore:
>
> http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Wilwood-Combination-Remote-Tandem-Master-Cylinder-p-2322.html
>
> With the tandem cylinder, the plumbing is simpler, and there is no
> modification necessary to the pedal box.
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Ron Mitchell <healeyron at yahoo.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> While attending Encounter this year I had a leaking Rear Wheel  
>> Cylinder
>> cause
>> a complete Brake Failure while backing out of a downhill parking  
>> place at
>> the
>> Hotel.  The result was $4700 damage to the rear of my MkII BN7  
>> caused by
>> the
>> Stone Wall that didn't move when I hit it.  I know the first thing  
>> your
>> going
>> to reply is why I didn't use the Parking Brake to stop before  
>> hitting the
>> wall.  I was in the process of doing that when the impact occurred.
>>
>> I'm
>> contemplating converting to a Dual Brake system.  My question is  
>> has any
>> one
>> on this list knowledge of a proper dia. and stroke Master Cylinder  
>> that
>> will
>> function on a Healey with Manual  Disc Brake Fronts and  Drum Brake  
>> Rears?
>> I
>> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual  
>> System
>> but wasn't able to find the owner to enquire as to the source for his
>> components.  I've also heard that someone in Texas has done this  
>> but I
>> haven't
>> been able to find out who.
>>
>> Any information either off list or on list would
>> be appreciated.
>>
>> Ron M.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as pieters at pt.lu
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Dec 17 08:53:25 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:53:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912170624l5388ae0g996d0e4e8747fcee@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c89.569d4fa3.385b1a36@aol.com>
	<ff59076c0912170624l5388ae0g996d0e4e8747fcee@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02e301ca7f31$12076500$36162f00$@net>

And one other thing to check is the seal where the gas gauge fits. If you
have a full tank (up to the filler pipe) and the gauge isn't sealed
properly, you will leak gas from there into the boot. Ask me how I know!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 9:25 AM
To: PhilRitten at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Caps

Phil -

If you open the boot and smell gas inside, you probably have a pinhole
leak in the bottom of your tank and it's leaking inside the boot.
Most of the bottom of the tank sits on the boot floor and is prone to
corrosion as a result.

Take the tank out and have it pressure tested a gas tank specialist
can repair it or get a new tank...

Also check the filler tube rubber hose for leaks, that's cheaper to fix!

Alan

From ryan at jimryan.com  Thu Dec 17 08:53:13 2009
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:53:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <000d01ca7f1e$b5b5afd0$21210f70$@rr.com>
References: <173126440912161222q713624f2qd23f2ca2e058bc1b@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W2488835EDBC751FD6E3D29C0860@phx.gbl>
	<000d01ca7f1e$b5b5afd0$21210f70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <dae9f38b0912170753w252ff58jc7c2ffb34c660dde@mail.gmail.com>

I had my 1964 BJ7 (BJ7L25155) stolen in Boston a week after I bought it in
1974 from  the original owner.  Got it back 3 months later in perfect
condition and full of camping equipment that wasn't there when I parked it.
The only thing missing on the car was the ID plate.  They even put the trunk
lock in my tool box .  I sometimes wonder if they changed the oil for me...

Anyway, 6 months later I get a call from the FBI.  They said they had broken
up a stolen car ring in VT and my tag was on one.  I went over my story with
them and they asked if I would testify.  I said if they paid the travel I
would.  About a week before the trial date they called and said it had been
pled out so I didn't go.  All I have on my car is a piece of scrap metal
with the number stamped on it that I made back then, and whenever I got it
inspected they would look at it and the registration and say "OK".

I still have the car.  In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting
outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go.  My fantasy is
that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit the
project.

-Jim
)?),

Pablo Picasso<http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/p/pablo_picasso.html>
- "Computers are useless. They can only give you answers."

2009/12/17 BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>

> Well, it's possible to get a title for a car that shouldn't have one.
>  There
> has been at least one car I know of offered by a well-known restorer at the
> Barrett-Jackson auction that was claiming a VIN number that is recorded as
> scrapped in the BJ8 registry.  I would assume that he was able to get a
> title with that number.
>
> I've never seen a "home-made" replacement VIN tag that looked anywhere near
> the factory original.  They are pretty obvious when they turn up, and are
> the first thing that make me suspicious of the identity of a car.
>
> Steve Byers
> HB8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>  On Behalf Of richard mayor
> Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 8:21 PM
> To: eyera3 at gmail.com; healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
>
> You can buy blank ID tags from Moss Motors for about $10-$15. You can buy a
> set of letter and numerical stamps the same size as the original for about
> $35. You can make up your own ID tags to any letter and number combination
> you
> like. What you need is a title! And, DMV will not give you a title based
> upon
> some old ID tag on some old car that has no title. The guy that bought the
> tag
> for $100 just lost $100.  Richard Mayor
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ryan at jimryan.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 09:09:06 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:09:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <8dac.5389a468.385babf4@aol.com>
References: <8dac.5389a468.385babf4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912170809h27f010fatd9e16197617700d5@mail.gmail.com>

alien abduction?

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 7:44 AM, <philritten at aol.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> The car is in a padlocked garage, with an older locking gas cap (and  no
> teenagers). That's why I'm so puzzled. There is no smell of gas in the
> trunk,
> and no sign of leakage (under the car or at the fuel pump).
>
> Phil
>
>
> In a message dated 12/16/2009 10:03:32 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:
>
> Rather  than looking for a new gas cap, I think you should be looking for a
> guy  with an Oklahoma credit card (a 3' long hose).
> I have never heard of that  amount of gas evaporating in a week even if the
> cap is off.  And the  cap on your car had better be venting, or there will
> be
> problems.
> Rick
>
> On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM,  <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I seem to be losing a couple of  gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> > storage. I don't smell any  fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering
> if
> > perhaps my gas cap  could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
> >   advice?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Phil
> >  _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are  subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
> >
> >  http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You  are subscribed as  philritten at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Thu Dec 17 09:54:31 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:54:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <8dac.5389a468.385babf4@aol.com>
References: <8dac.5389a468.385babf4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001201ca7f39$9ae4a6a0$d0adf3e0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Could you not be losing fuel at the pump, where the line to the engine comes
out? You'd - possibly - only get a leak when the pump was running, but could
lose enough to make a noticeable difference over a while. 
As I understand it, you couldn't get a leak on the "inward" side of the
pump.
Simon


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of philritten at aol.com
Sent: 17 December 2009 15:45
To: richard.ewald at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Caps

All,
 
The car is in a padlocked garage, with an older locking gas cap (and  no 
teenagers). That's why I'm so puzzled. There is no smell of gas in the
trunk,  
and no sign of leakage (under the car or at the fuel pump).
 
Phil
 
 
In a message dated 12/16/2009 10:03:32 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

Rather  than looking for a new gas cap, I think you should be looking for a
guy  with an Oklahoma credit card (a 3' long hose).
I have never heard of that  amount of gas evaporating in a week even if the
cap is off.  And the  cap on your car had better be venting, or there will  
be
problems.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM,  <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple of  gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any  fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm wondering 
if
> perhaps my gas cap  could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
>   advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are  subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  philritten at aol.com

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Healeys at autox.team.net
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From philritten at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 09:54:50 2009
From: philritten at aol.com (philritten at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 11:54:50 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
Message-ID: <b900.6f4ab310.385bbc5a@aol.com>

Lets say for argument sake that I'm losing a gallon a week. If I took off  
the gas cap entirely, is it possible for that much to "evaporate"?
 
 
In a message dated 12/17/2009 8:09:53 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
eyera3 at gmail.com writes:

alien  abduction?

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 7:44 AM, <_philritten at aol.com_ 
(mailto:philritten at aol.com) > wrote:

All,

The  car is in a padlocked garage, with an older locking gas cap (and  no
teenagers). That's why I'm so puzzled. There is no smell of gas  in the 
trunk,
and no sign of leakage (under the car or at the fuel  pump).

Phil


In a message dated 12/16/2009 10:03:32 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time,
_richard.ewald at gmail.com_ (mailto:richard.ewald at gmail.com)   writes:

Rather  than looking for a new gas cap, I think you  should be looking for a
guy  with an Oklahoma credit card (a 3' long  hose).
I have never heard of that  amount of gas evaporating in a  week even if the
cap is off.  And the  cap on your car had  better be venting, or there will
be
problems.
Rick

On Wed,  Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM,  <_PhilRitten at aol.com_ 
(mailto:PhilRitten at aol.com) >  wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple of  gallons of gas a  week while my car is in
> storage. I don't smell any  fumes, and  don't see any leaks. I'm wondering
if
> perhaps my gas cap  could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone have
>    advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>  _______________________________________________
> Support  Team.Net  _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ 
(http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
>
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-- 
I Erbs
Portland,  OR

From philritten at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 09:58:32 2009
From: philritten at aol.com (philritten at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 11:58:32 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
Message-ID: <bb2d.6415fba8.385bbd38@aol.com>

The pump does pump a number of times (say 6 times) when I first turn on the 
 key, and I've noticed lately that I have to crank it much longer before it 
will  start. It used to start pretty quickly, even after sitting for a week.
Could I be losing gas around the carbs?
 
 
In a message dated 12/17/2009 8:54:45 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk writes:

Could  you not be losing fuel at the pump, where the line to the engine 
comes
out?  You'd - possibly - only get a leak when the pump was running, but  
could
lose enough to make a noticeable difference over a while. 
As I  understand it, you couldn't get a leak on the "inward" side of  the
pump.
Simon


-----Original Message-----
From:  healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of philritten at aol.com
Sent: 17 December 2009 15:45
To:  richard.ewald at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re:  [Healeys] Gas Caps

All,

The car is in a padlocked garage, with  an older locking gas cap (and  no 
teenagers). That's why I'm so  puzzled. There is no smell of gas in the
trunk,  
and no sign of  leakage (under the car or at the fuel pump).

Phil


In a  message dated 12/16/2009 10:03:32 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,   
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

Rather  than looking for a new  gas cap, I think you should be looking for a
guy  with an Oklahoma  credit card (a 3' long hose).
I have never heard of that  amount of  gas evaporating in a week even if the
cap is off.  And the  cap  on your car had better be venting, or there will 
  
be
problems.
Rick

On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 9:23 PM,   <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

> I seem to be losing a couple  of  gallons of gas a week while my car is in
> storage. I don't  smell any  fumes, and don't see any leaks. I'm 
wondering 
if
>  perhaps my gas cap  could be bad and be venting gas. Does anyone  have
>   advice?
>
> Thanks,
>  Phil
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>   http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are   subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
>   http://www.team.net/archive
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 17 10:00:24 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:00:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Missing gas
Message-ID: <COL121-W133495BD54ABB055A80A06A4860@phx.gbl>

This reminds me of a story George Burns tells about living near Jack Benny.
George would sneak over to Jacks house every week and add two gallons of gas.
Jack (being cheap) bragged about the fantastic millage he was getting. Then
after several months George removed two gallon each week. He complained to the
dealer about the crappy millage he was now getting.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 10:18:28 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:18:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <b900.6f4ab310.385bbc5a@aol.com>
References: <b900.6f4ab310.385bbc5a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912170918u5146e484l228ad382a9b807d3@mail.gmail.com>

It would depend on the temperature.  The colder it is, the less will
evaporate.  Unless you are in one hell of a hot area, I don't think it is
possible to evaporate that much fuel in a week.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 8:54 AM, <philritten at aol.com> wrote:

> Lets say for argument sake that I'm losing a gallon a week. If I took off
> the gas cap entirely, is it possible for that much to "evaporate"?

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Thu Dec 17 10:55:46 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 12:55:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1127.1261070312.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1127.1261070312.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B2A70A2.1070205@comcast.net>

Jim Ryan wrote:
 > I still have the car.  In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting
 > outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go.  My fantasy is
 > that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit the
 > project.

Daddeeeeeeeeeee!

Love,
-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 11:19:50 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 10:19:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <4B2A70A2.1070205@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.1127.1261070312.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<4B2A70A2.1070205@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912171019p29cce13rc543342c50c2ddeb@mail.gmail.com>

Beat me to it.
Rick

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jim Ryan wrote:
> > I still have the car.  In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting
> > outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go.  My fantasy is
> > that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit the
> > project.
>
> Daddeeeeeeeeeee!
>
> Love,
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cabowley at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 17 12:42:38 2009
From: cabowley at hotmail.com (Chris Bowley)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:42:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
In-Reply-To: <AA7738CF-2DE8-431F-810A-32514E018C75@mac.com>
References: <000a01ca7e46$0ffd00d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>,
	<AA7738CF-2DE8-431F-810A-32514E018C75@mac.com>
Message-ID: <COL123-W6A417CEDE938BC6B24FCFC7860@phx.gbl>

Here we go again...

> From: amalin at mac.com
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:29:16 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speaking of tire Pressure
>
> Confucius say: "Man with one watch knows what time it is. Man with two
> watches not sure."
>
> Al Malin
>
>
>
> On Dec 16, 2009, at 6:51 AM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
>
> > I have 3 pressure gauges that give me 3 different figures. Which
> > one is
> > correct?
> >
> > If air pressure is so important wouldn't you think that some one
> > would make a
> > gauge
> > that gives a correct reading. And how do we really know what is
> > correct?
> >
> > Mark
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cabowley at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
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From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Thu Dec 17 13:33:56 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:33:56 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <B37B46A8-C695-4EE4-932B-A02C3E037225@pt.lu>
Message-ID: <20091217203402.UWLZ1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Hi Pieter
I also had a 1"master cylinder on the BN1 with BJ8 front discs (though not
tandem system) and had a hard pedal even with a PBR VH44 booster. Not a good
feeling. Went to 7/8" and now works well

John Rowe Qld Australia
BN1  BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda
Sent: Friday, 18 December 2009 1:47 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System

I have the wilwood  1" bore tandem master cylinder in my BJ7 combined  
with four pot front calipers and rear discs. It is a straight bolt in  
fit and easy to plumb but the pedal pressure is high. I would recomend  
a 7/8 bore. I am fitting a tandem brake booster over the winter so we  
will see what the pedal pressure is like then,
cheers
Pieter
did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual  

From powellinsac at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 17 13:35:01 2009
From: powellinsac at yahoo.com (Frank Powell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 12:35:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10912171019p29cce13rc543342c50c2ddeb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <179027.44028.qm@web111316.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

That's what I did last year. My father bought most of a BN2 in the early
1980s. He tore it apart and replaced the rusty parts of the chassis then I
took over. I sold my Miata to him and he gave me the Healey. We'll have to see
who got the better end of that bargain!
 
Frank Powell


--- On Thu, 12/17/09, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey ID tag on ebay
To: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 10:19 AM


Beat me to it.
Rick

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jim Ryan wrote:
> > I still have the car.  In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting
> > outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go.  My fantasy is
> > that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit the
> > project.
>
> Daddeeeeeeeeeee!
>
> Love,
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as powellinsac at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dan at warner-associates.com  Thu Dec 17 13:37:47 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 14:37:47 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 4 Post Frame Jacks
Message-ID: <5B035E741E064B20B25EA9FA3B8A8135@DANSTROM>

Cannot seem to find a 4 post jack that goes to the frame.  Anyone found a 4
post jack that fits to the frame rather than under the wheels?

 

Dan

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Dec 17 14:08:24 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:08:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Caps
In-Reply-To: <4B2A843A.5000407@comcast.net>
References: <bb2d.6415fba8.385bbd38@aol.com>
  <4B2A843A.5000407@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B2A9DC8.4090503@comcast.net>

How often do you start it?  Maybe your floats have sunk and it is being 
pumped into the engine.
>
> philritten at aol.com wrote:
>> The pump does pump a number of times (say 6 times) when I first turn 
>> on the  key, and I've noticed lately that I have to crank it much 
>> longer before it will  start. It used to start pretty quickly, even 
>> after sitting for a week.
>> Could I be losing gas around the carbs?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 15:05:24 2009
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:05:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributors
Message-ID: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>

I need the collective wisdom of the list on this one.

I have met a new owner of a 63 BJ7.  The owner is extremely frustrated with
the car.  The car does not run.  The distributor is a 25 D.  The tip of
vacuum advance unit is basically pointing toward the engine block, between
plugs # 3 and # 4.  On my car, also a 63 BJ7, the tip of the unit points
toward the firewall.  Is it possible the distributor is off 90 degrees?
Everything I know, and can find, says the distributor is either correct or
out 180 degrees.  Nothing else is possible.  So how is it possible for this
one to be pointing toward the block?  Any ideas?

Also, the distributor needs a new rotor, plus a spare.  This topic has been
discussed many times but what has been the final opinion, with or without
the rivet and who carries the correct one?  What about the cap?

I have done a compression check and get readings averaging 180 psi with no
variation between cylinders of more that 5 lbs.  The head was redone and new
rings were installed.  There are new carbs on the car.

What gives?

Fred
63 BJ7

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 15:09:07 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 14:09:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] heatre control parts
Message-ID: <173126440912171409g20e6eaf3j665f1e9368014746@mail.gmail.com>

while attempting to remove the fresh air control knob the entire knob and
metal piece it attaches to broke off from the cable. Moss' online charts are
hard to decipher. can I buy the cable, knob and pull piece? If so what are
he part #s. Also what for the other pull and knob. Might as well replace
them both. Additioanlly, what comes in the
 *181* <http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28932#top>
*322-215* *$10.95*  *MOUNTING KIT, control panel*


I bought a new panel, but it would be nice to replace the bolts and
spacers....
Thanks.
So far, right (port) rear dog leg and front fender bottom have been
replaced. all rusted bits underneath have been fabricated and patched.
Interior has been striped to metal. right side door is off with new bottom
piece ready to be installed,Most bright work has been removed.
Tranny tunnel is out, 2 of 3 dash bolts have been removed. Speedo is out,
the rest of the gauges should be out this afternoon. then dash will be down.
need to cut up a deep 5/8th socket to get the sending unit out of the block.
Picked up a good usable left rear fender from John Wilson, its off to the
blaster, then back for repair. The front fender bottom. Hopefully off to the
paint remover and body shop by end of Jan. 2010.
wow after 35 years of waiting this is all going so fast!!!
-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From editorgary at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 15:16:23 2009
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:16:23 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys under Tarps
Message-ID: <3407.9477f0a.385c07b7@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/17/09 11:09:49 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


>
> Jim Ryan wrote:
> > I still have the car.  In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting
> > outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go.  My fantasy is
> > that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit
> the
> > project.
>

To be totally blunt about this otherwise sweet ambition: by the time your
boys get settled down enough to take on your Healey, there won't be anything
there worth restoring, and the mechanic they hire to give them advice will
tell them that they will essentially have to build a new Healey into the
space where he will be removing all the vital parts, one by one, if they want
to
have something to remember you by.

Any Healey being stored outside under a tarp, even in our climate, is
rotting away, and has probably a five year life span before it makes
absolutely
no sense to do anything other than part it out for things like horn buttons
and glove box locks that will still be worth their present value.

So, nice as your desires are, they're unachievable. Find someone who will
appreciate that car now, sell it to them for a fair price, and make
arrangements for your sons to keep in touch. If they still love cars when
they're 45
(which is the first time they'll have the time, money, and energy to restore
the car), then they can buy it from the next owner, who will be ready to
pass it on.

Gary

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Dec 17 15:46:10 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 14:46:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Distributors
In-Reply-To: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420108@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Fred,
I like the rotor sold/made by Jeff the distributor rebuilder in
Minnesota or Wisconsin. They do not have the counter weight, thus are
small and fit my Allison ignition arrangement well.
Ken Freese

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Dec 17 15:56:59 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:56:59 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Distributors
In-Reply-To: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200912171457856.SM01616@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

You can have the distributor pointing any way you want, just by 
moving wires around.  It would seem checking the firing order, etc. 
would be a good place to start.... pun intended.
         Peter C
====
At 04:05 PM 12/17/2009, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>I need the collective wisdom of the list on this one.
>
>I have met a new owner of a 63 BJ7.  The owner is extremely frustrated with
>the car.  The car does not run.  The distributor is a 25 D.  The tip of
>vacuum advance unit is basically pointing toward the engine block, between
>plugs # 3 and # 4.  On my car, also a 63 BJ7, the tip of the unit points
>toward the firewall.  Is it possible the distributor is off 90 degrees?
>Everything I know, and can find, says the distributor is either correct or
>out 180 degrees.  Nothing else is possible.  So how is it possible for this
>one to be pointing toward the block?  Any ideas?
>
>Also, the distributor needs a new rotor, plus a spare.  This topic has been
>discussed many times but what has been the final opinion, with or without
>the rivet and who carries the correct one?  What about the cap?
>
>I have done a compression check and get readings averaging 180 psi with no
>variation between cylinders of more that 5 lbs.  The head was redone and new
>rings were installed.  There are new carbs on the car.
>
>What gives?
>
>Fred
>63 BJ7

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Dec 17 16:54:22 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:54:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys under Tarps
In-Reply-To: <3407.9477f0a.385c07b7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1731912594.668821261094062742.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

When I first saw the subject I thought "Finally, the government is going to bail out Healey owners. 'Bout f'n time." 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


> 
> Jim Ryan wrote: 
> > I still have the car. In severe need of restoration (again) and sitting 
> > outside under a tarp, but I just can't bear to let it go. My fantasy is 
> > that one of my boys (22 & 25) will get settled down enough to inherit 
> the 
> > project. 
> 

To be totally blunt about this otherwise sweet ambition: by the time your 
boys get settled down enough to take on your Healey, there won't be anything 
there worth restoring, and the mechanic they hire to give them advice will 
tell them that they will essentially have to build a new Healey into the 
space where he will be removing all the vital parts, one by one, if they want 
to 
have something to remember you by. 

Any Healey being stored outside under a tarp, even in our climate, is 
rotting away, and has probably a five year life span before it makes 
absolutely 
no sense to do anything other than part it out for things like horn buttons 
and glove box locks that will still be worth their present value. 

So, nice as your desires are, they're unachievable. Find someone who will 
appreciate that car now, sell it to them for a fair price, and make 
arrangements for your sons to keep in touch. If they still love cars when 
they're 45 
(which is the first time they'll have the time, money, and energy to restore 
the car), then they can buy it from the next owner, who will be ready to 
pass it on. 

Gary 

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 16:54:43 2009
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:54:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10912162056y129d4887l5654e9961067fbc4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
	<02b501ca7ed0$2c9a7da0$85cf78e0$@net>
	<a3b984e10912162056y129d4887l5654e9961067fbc4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC4D8B7081BEC5-353C-22D4@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks, Rick.  Good info.

Bill Wilkman
BT7




-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
Cc: wilkmanracing at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 8:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts


I'm a service manager at a large dealership in Southern California.  We use
twin post hoists, not 4 posters but the issues are the similar.
The Sears in Northridge used to leave all their cars all the way up in the air
so the cleaning crew could clean under them every night.  From what I heard
when the quake hit in 1994 the cars on those racks went down like dominoes.
It is my understanding they lost 9 cars that night. Now I don't know if these
were all in ground hoists or above ground units.
About anchoring hoists, to bolt down a twin post hoist requires a 6" slab.
Most if not all residential garages have a 4" slab.  The solution is to cut
out a section about 4 feet by 2' wider than the lift and pour a 6" slab in
that area.  So if your hoist legs are 10 feet apart, the slab would be 4X12.
(had to do that with more than one hoist installation)  But since these 4 post
hoists are designed to work without bolting to the floor, you might be able to
get by with just the 4" slab.  Consult the hoist maker for more info.
In the event of a quake the size of Northridge or above, I would want a hoist
anchored to the floor.  The movement in that quake, at my house, was more
vertical than it was horizontal.  My water heater walked away from the wall at
the bottom (it was anchored at the top) and it wound up at a 30 degree angle.
I would be afraid that a 4 post lift could walk and hit the car underneath, or
the legs might spread and possibly collapse.  I don't think that the top car
falling is much of an issue for these type of hoists.  With a single or a twin
post I would have that concern.
In closing let me pass along what I tell all of my techs to do in the event of
an earthquake.
RUN! get the hell out from under the cars, and get clear.
Hope this helps.
Rick


On Wed, Dec 16, 2009 at 8:19 PM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

Why not ask at one of your local repair shop what they do? Especially in the
San Fernando Valley where I believe the last big one was???

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 17:21:43 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:21:43 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
Message-ID: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>

I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water  
through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning out the 
 combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who  
told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
 
So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
 
Best--Michael Oritt  

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Thu Dec 17 17:21:50 2009
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:21:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912170618l2b701a32w4a792c3f787bcc81@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
	<ff59076c0912170618l2b701a32w4a792c3f787bcc81@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC4D8F3A51A950-353C-2887@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>

I've thought about the same sort of anchoring, except the idea of using guy
wires didn't occur to me.  Of course the problem with anchoring the wires to
the ground is that they would require a considerable distance of available
space around the car.  The wires would also interfere with movement around the
car.  What about extending the wires upward and anchoring them to ceiling
joists?

Bill Wilkman
BT7



-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: wilkmanracing at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2009 6:18 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts


Bill -
I'm originally an engineer from Berzerkeley where we study these
hings, and spent 6 years working for Bechtel.
There is two ways to do this - keep it loose or anchor it down with guy
wires.
You don't want to just bolt the posts to the floor - with up to two
ons six foot in the air that's potentially enough weight to break
ost welds with lots of shaking - in some ways if you just left it on
he wheels it'd probably just roll around rather than topple over if
ou bolted 'er down.
There are actually many buidings in Tokyo that have floating/rolling
oundations for this very reason - loose at ground level is great for
topping things from toppling over.
The best thing to do, however, is to get guy wires and turnbuckles and
onnect them to the top of all four posts then bolt the other end of
he wire to the floor, preferably with the wire at a 45 deg angle to
evel (but any angle past ~ 70 deg to level isn't as good) .  This is
he best protection to keep the lot from falling over and how many old
asonry buldings are shored up to withstand quakes.  The guy wires are
ood because you can easily loosen them and move the lift around if
ecessary.
Alan
On 12/17/09, wilkmanracing at aol.com <wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:
 I live in Southern California, AKA earthquake country.  I have a four post
 lift that, like most four post lifts, does not have to be bolted down.  One
 concern I have, however, is what happens to a car on the lift and a car
 below
 the lift in the case of an earthquake.  Seems to me that a moderately strong
 earthquake could topple a lift leaving both the top and bottom cars in a bad
 state.  But, just bolting a lift down would not seem to be enough.  Unless
 the
 bolts extended well into a deep footing, I would think a moderately strong
 earthquake would pull the bolts out of the ground.  Does anyone have any
 ideas
 as to how to earthquake-proof a lift?

 Bill Wilkman
 BT7
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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--
ent from my mobile device
Alan
'52 A90
53 BN1
59 Jag Mk IX
64 BJ8

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Dec 17 17:33:30 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:33:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D9B8050674DA47449C20F5D551EFFCF2@GregPC>

Have heard of it, was explained to me as an old mechanics trick for 
decarbonizing, water gets in the carbon a little bit, rapidly vaporizes and 
takes the deposits off in theory I think, I have tried it, you get all sorts 
of interesting noises from the car, no apparent damage, no idea if it 
worked.

Greg Lemon 

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 17 17:33:45 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:33:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B2ACDE9.8060006@earthlink.net>

I've heard about it.  Would think that it would be easier to do on a 
down draft carb than the side draft SU.

Had a Toyota that blew a head gasket - to the coolant passages.  The 
affected cylinders didn't have a bit of carbon.

Bob

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water  
> through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning out the 
>  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who  
> told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>  
> So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 17 17:50:47 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:50:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <4B2ACDE9.8060006@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <189447.11868.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I've heard of it ,too,  as well as pouring uncooked rice into the combustion
chambers.  I think I'd rather go with Seafoam, or at the very least the old
reliable "Italian Tune-Up"

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 12/17/09, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
To: Awgertoo at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 7:33 PM

I've heard about it.  Would think that it would be easier to do on a down
draft carb than the side draft SU.

Had a Toyota that blew a head gasket - to the coolant passages.  The affected
cylinders didn't have a bit of carbon.

Bob

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water 
through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning out
the  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who 
told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>  So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>  Best--Michael Oritt  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 17 18:00:08 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:00:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
Message-ID: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction in
Utah in January.  Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
reputed chassis # of BN2L228002.  The car pictured appears to be a Cobra kit
car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is actually
a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market. 
Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

From craigsuerice at iquest.net  Thu Dec 17 18:08:35 2009
From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig Rice)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6A564545AD834884A06AA513A61FB69E@CraigHRicePC>

Michael,

It is the same process used to clean the exterior of the engine. It's called 
"steam cleaning".

Craig Rice (from Indiana)
BN1 & BN2

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Awgertoo at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 7:21 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?


>I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water
> through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning 
> out the
> combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who
> told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>
> So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as craigsuerice at iquest.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 18:13:30 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:13:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <D9B8050674DA47449C20F5D551EFFCF2@GregPC>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
	<D9B8050674DA47449C20F5D551EFFCF2@GregPC>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912171713y62399c34r916cde7534e37829@mail.gmail.com>

It does work, it will clean the pistons and combustion chambers, the water
turns to steam and "steam cleans" the pistons.  However there is a risk, if
you get too much water in one cylinder you will either hydrolock the engine
or bend a rod.
both of these are generally considered as not a good thing.
Rick

On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 4:33 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Have heard of it, was explained to me as an old mechanics trick for
> decarbonizing, water gets in the carbon a little bit, rapidly vaporizes and
> takes the deposits off in theory I think, I have tried it, you get all sorts
> of interesting noises from the car, no apparent damage, no idea if it
> worked.

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 18:35:56 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:35:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
Message-ID: <4b2adc33.9513f30a.5172.ffffbc56@mx.google.com>

Looks like it could be a one piece fiberglass front end on a 100-4  wierd
looking cobra too.

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2

The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction in
Utah in January.  Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
reputed chassis # of BN2L228002.  The car pictured appears to be a Cobra kit
car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is
actually
a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market.
Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 17 18:41:44 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:41:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <4b2adc33.9513f30a.5172.ffffbc56@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <552385.88681.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If that's the case, they should bring some more criminal charges against him!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 12/17/09, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 8:35 PM

Looks like it could be a one piece fiberglass front end on a 100-4  wierd
looking cobra too.

sent from my cellular PDA
I Erbs

-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2

The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction in
Utah in January.  Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
reputed chassis # of BN2L228002.  The car pictured appears to be a Cobra kit
car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is
actually
a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market.
Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Dec 17 18:41:48 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:41:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W59AC7B9F9CF4B0D56CD498AD850@phx.gbl>

Those fenders are definitely for a kit car. Further down, they list a
"Mercury/Desoto that is definitely an "oxymoron" such as military
intelligence!

Bill

BJ7
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:00:08 -0800
> From: healeyrick at yahoo.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
>
> The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction
in
> Utah in January. Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
> reputed chassis # of BN2L228002. The car pictured appears to be a Cobra kit
> car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is
actually
> a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market.
> Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
> auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Thu Dec 17 18:51:51 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:51:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B2AE037.1030609@comcast.net>

<< Don't know if there is actually a BN2 for auction,>>

Couldn't actually tell Rick, bit I sure would give up
a knock-off or 2 for the '56 TWO door Nomad !!!
Purple paint and bonnet [sans motor - re-sell it<G>]
CAN be fixed !!!!

About as common as a real 100S <VBG> !!!!

Jealous POOR me !!

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Thu Dec 17 18:52:02 2009
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:52:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys]  Decarbonizing technique?
Message-ID: <6119447759474AA8B7921065DDA56017@your4dacd0ea75>

Michael.... Never heard of using water, however; using brake fluid definately
works.

Norman

From pennell at cox.net  Thu Dec 17 20:37:30 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:37:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091217223730.YYX8P.240895.imail@eastrmwml43>

I have indeed heard of it and used it too.  Did it a couple of times long ago on my parents 56 DeSoto and a little later on my brothers 55 Chevy.  All sorts of stuff blows out the back and the engine makes some scary noises.  No idea of how clean it got the cylinders though.  I certainly would add the water sparingly as too much could probably lock up an engine.  Probably no more than a tsp at a time and give the engine time to recover.

With a downdraft carb this is easy to do.  On our semidowndrafts it would be difficult.  Perhaps using a fine mist from a spray bottle into the air filter may work.  Don't believe I will try it though either way.

Keith Pennell

---- Awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 
> I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water  
> through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning out the 
>  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who  
> told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>  
> So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 21:18:31 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 12:18:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912172018s32c06460yc0d7fa186d0bb634@mail.gmail.com>

What's sort of weird is half the collection is real, the other half is
replica.  Why would anyone purchase so many replicas if they had the money?
300 vehicles!

I agree on the Chev Nomad, would love to have that car.  I'd take it back to
stock, however....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 9:00 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction
> in
> Utah in January.  Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
> reputed chassis # of BN2L228002.  The car pictured appears to be a Cobra
> kit
> car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is
> actually
> a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market.
> Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
> auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rcobb at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 17 21:18:47 2009
From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:18:47 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
Message-ID: <4B2B02A7.4060702@earthlink.net>

Using water to decarbonize is a very old mechanic's trick.  I recall 
using it first on my 1950 GMC pickup in the early 70's.

The theory apparently is that the fluid water entering the combustion 
chamber breaks loose the carbon due to temperature 
differential/expansion as the water heats rapidly.
The method I used was to pour a cup of water into the intake of the 
carburetor, with the air filter removed while controlling the throttle 
so the engine runs fast enough to not stall as the water is added.

The only practical risk that I am aware of is that the small carbon 
particles that have broken free may get stuck beneath the valves, 
preventing them from seating fully.
Never tried it on the Healey, due to lack of apparent need.

Bob.

From sales at justbrits.com  Thu Dec 17 21:29:15 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:29:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912172018s32c06460yc0d7fa186d0bb634@mail.gmail.com>
References: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0912172018s32c06460yc0d7fa186d0bb634@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B2B051B.6030606@justbrits.com>

<< I'd take it back to stock, however....>>

As I said Alan......

<quote>
Purple paint and bonnet [sans motor - re-sell it<G>]
CAN be fixed !!!!
</quote>

I would return to Stock SO FAST the folks at
Barrett-Jackson would be calling ME !!!!!

<VBG> !!!!!

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 17 22:10:33 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 00:10:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912172018s32c06460yc0d7fa186d0bb634@mail.gmail.com>
References: <373325.16938.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0912172018s32c06460yc0d7fa186d0bb634@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS22E97A909B0719F53A372B3850@phx.gbl>

About a dozen of these cars are mislabeled!?  What the.....?  A Mercury 
Desoto!
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 11:18 PM
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2

> What's sort of weird is half the collection is real, the other half is
> replica.  Why would anyone purchase so many replicas if they had the 
> money?
> 300 vehicles!
>
> I agree on the Chev Nomad, would love to have that car.  I'd take it back 
> to
> stock, however....
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Thu Dec 17 22:34:00 2009
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:34:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Distributors
In-Reply-To: <200912171457856.SM01616@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
References: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
	<200912171457856.SM01616@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <F05797BA-FBEA-4A16-93AF-0E81644C7AB8@bornet.net>

I would check the drive gear in the block. The gear that is driven by  
the cam shaft and in turn drives the housing or adaptor for the  
distributor. This gear can be positioned at any angle but only one is  
right. Check the worhshop manual for the correct position.

Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
www.concourshealeys.com


17 dec 2009 kl. 23.56 skrev Peter Caldwell:

> You can have the distributor pointing any way you want, just by  
> moving wires around.  It would seem checking the firing order, etc.  
> would be a good place to start.... pun intended.
>        Peter C
> ====
> At 04:05 PM 12/17/2009, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>> I need the collective wisdom of the list on this one.
>>
>> I have met a new owner of a 63 BJ7.  The owner is extremely  
>> frustrated with
>> the car.  The car does not run.  The distributor is a 25 D.  The  
>> tip of
>> vacuum advance unit is basically pointing toward the engine block,  
>> between
>> plugs # 3 and # 4.  On my car, also a 63 BJ7, the tip of the unit  
>> points
>> toward the firewall.  Is it possible the distributor is off 90  
>> degrees?
>> Everything I know, and can find, says the distributor is either  
>> correct or
>> out 180 degrees.  Nothing else is possible.  So how is it possible  
>> for this
>> one to be pointing toward the block?  Any ideas?
>>
>> Also, the distributor needs a new rotor, plus a spare.  This topic  
>> has been
>> discussed many times but what has been the final opinion, with or  
>> without
>> the rivet and who carries the correct one?  What about the cap?
>>
>> I have done a compression check and get readings averaging 180 psi  
>> with no
>> variation between cylinders of more that 5 lbs.  The head was  
>> redone and new
>> rings were installed.  There are new carbs on the car.
>>
>> What gives?
>>
>> Fred
>> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as magnuskarlsson at bornet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec 17 23:44:12 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:44:12 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Distributors
In-Reply-To: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bf67ed500912171405o70ed79b9xd9eaa96059c5c2ff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B2B24BC.40503@chello.nl>

Seamingly the distributor can be "off" 60, 120, 180, 240 or 300degrees 
depending on how it is fitted. It is hardly possible to fit the shaft 
out 180 degrees because the dogs are offset. The main thing is that when 
no. 1 piston is on TDC in the compression stroke the rotor is directing 
to the plugwire for no. 1 cilinder on the distributor cap and that the 
correct firing order (WSM) is adhered to.
It does not matter which way the vacuum capsule is positioned as long as 
there is room to set the timing and it does not interfere with other 
parts of the engine.
Compression seems to be perfect, considering it is presumably measured 
with a cold engine.

The new carbs of course need proper setting and balancing, starting from 
the basic position folowing the procedure as written down in the WSM.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Fred Wescoe schreef:
> I need the collective wisdom of the list on this one.
>
> I have met a new owner of a 63 BJ7.  The owner is extremely frustrated with
> the car.  The car does not run.  The distributor is a 25 D.  The tip of
> vacuum advance unit is basically pointing toward the engine block, between
> plugs # 3 and # 4.  On my car, also a 63 BJ7, the tip of the unit points
> toward the firewall.  Is it possible the distributor is off 90 degrees?
> Everything I know, and can find, says the distributor is either correct or
> out 180 degrees.  Nothing else is possible.  So how is it possible for this
> one to be pointing toward the block?  Any ideas?
>
> Also, the distributor needs a new rotor, plus a spare.  This topic has been
> discussed many times but what has been the final opinion, with or without
> the rivet and who carries the correct one?  What about the cap?
>
> I have done a compression check and get readings averaging 180 psi with no
> variation between cylinders of more that 5 lbs.  The head was redone and new
> rings were installed.  There are new carbs on the car.
>
> What gives?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.716 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.111/2570 - datum van uitgifte: 12/17/09 09:30:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec 18 00:07:14 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:07:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>

It is a known trick of the trade as is pouring down brake fluid (ATF is 
another I have heard about). It might help a bit for a while but the 
only proper way is doing it the hard way: lift the cilinder head and 
remove the carbon deposits in the head, on the valves and on the piston 
tops.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

 
Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
> I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water  
> through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of cleaning out the 
>  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and were the fellow who  
> told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>  
> So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt  

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 01:01:34 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 16:01:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Earthquakes and Lifts
In-Reply-To: <8CC4D8F3A51A950-353C-2887@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC4CE42089DEAE-4ED4-B436@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com>
	<ff59076c0912170618l2b701a32w4a792c3f787bcc81@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CC4D8F3A51A950-353C-2887@webmail-d023.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912180001w401b5f80k95c7d922922ab3c4@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

You definitely don't want to wire the hoist to the ceiling because in an
earthquake, the higher you go the more amplitude of movement you'll get,
plus the rafters typically will be in exact opposite phase of sinusoidal
movement.  You don't want the rafters shaking your hoist one way while the
ground is shaking the other way.  Plus I doubt the rafters are strong enough
to hold a car anyway.

Front to back motion can be fixed easily by running a guy wire from the
bottom of a front post to the top of the rear post (on the same side), and
then the top of the other front post to the bottom of the other rear post.
That will keep the hoist from collapsing front to back and I assume there'd
be no problems with access or room in the garage if you do it this way.  You
could do the same wire bracing on the back (in an X) to minimize side to
side motion of the hoist, but obviously the front you need the opening clear
to drive on and off the lift.

 For front of hoist side to side motion, you could run guy wires from the
top of the front posts to the 2x4s in your wall - you'd best do it on both
sides.

something like this:

Front:
 _
|  |

Back:
  _
|X|

Left Side:
 _
|/|

Right Side:
 _
|\|

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 8:21 AM, <wilkmanracing at aol.com> wrote:

> I've thought about the same sort of anchoring, except the idea of using guy
> wires didn't occur to me.  Of course the problem with anchoring the wires to
> the ground is that they would require a considerable distance of available
> space around the car.  The wires would also interfere with movement around
> the car.  What about extending the wires upward and anchoring them to
> ceiling joists?
>
> Bill Wilkman
> BT7

From grday at btinternet.com  Fri Dec 18 03:23:22 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 10:23:22 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com> <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4D4B3BACEAB74564889BC8D4E165EA71@user8634b3d69b>

Trickling a pint of water through the carb(s) of a hot engine revving around 
3000 rpm was one of the things done in the older automotive times although I 
have not heard of using ATF or brake fluid.  I can see no reason why it 
shouldn't work, but it may be rather smoky!  I was cautioned against the 
process by a guy who explained that it can remove carbon build up in chunks 
which can cause damage to the valves as they attempt to pass through.  I 
suppose if it was done every 6 months or so you wouldn't get enough build up 
to create chunks....
During war years and in the 50's it was used on a regular basis as it was 
meant to keep an engine cool and water injection kits were sold for a 
similar purpose - but I never played with them.

Guy R Day

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Dec 18 04:53:08 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:53:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <4D4B3BACEAB74564889BC8D4E165EA71@user8634b3d69b>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com> <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>
	<4D4B3BACEAB74564889BC8D4E165EA71@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <03da01ca7fd8$ab618940$02249bc0$@net>

I remember years ago there were products on the market that did the same
thing = Bardahl or something like that. When you poured it down the throat
of the carburetor, they create a lot of smoke in the exhaust. There were
called instant tune-ups weren't they?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Guy R Day
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 5:23 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?

Trickling a pint of water through the carb(s) of a hot engine revving around

3000 rpm was one of the things done in the older automotive times although I

have not heard of using ATF or brake fluid.  I can see no reason why it
shouldn't work, but it may be rather smoky!  I was cautioned against the
process by a guy who explained that it can remove carbon build up in chunks
which can cause damage to the valves as they attempt to pass through.  I
suppose if it was done every 6 months or so you wouldn't get enough build up

to create chunks....
During war years and in the 50's it was used on a regular basis as it was
meant to keep an engine cool and water injection kits were sold for a
similar purpose - but I never played with them.

Guy R Day
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri Dec 18 05:58:57 2009
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:58:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <03da01ca7fd8$ab618940$02249bc0$@net>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com> <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>
	<4D4B3BACEAB74564889BC8D4E165EA71@user8634b3d69b>
	<03da01ca7fd8$ab618940$02249bc0$@net>
Message-ID: <F30C198647324E81A406AD4B38E1D522@PetePC>

I had an uncle who always bought used cars and the first thing he did was to 
put a quart of "top oil" in a full tank of gas to clean the engine.  Worked 
fine until he bought a car with a large amount of carbon build up.  Just 
like someone else pointed out - the carbon broke loose in chunks and broke 
several valves.  The engine had to be totally rebuilt.

If there is a chance of having large carbon deposits in the engine I would 
recommend pulling the head and cleaning mechanically.  When parts were 
inexpensive and plentiful it may have made sense to take a chance.  Times 
have changed and our engines are too valuable to try a quick fix for a sick 
engine.

To keep the carbon down use the car like it was intended - drive it!
My $.02
Pete

From peter at nosimport.com  Fri Dec 18 07:13:11 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:13:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>
References: <d4a.621cb431.385c2517@aol.com> <4B2B2A22.3080801@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <200912180613691.SM01616@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

The ATF was to "restore" hydraulic lifters, not for cleaning valves.

Seafoam product is intended for upper cylinder cleaning. Good stuff 
by many reports.
         Peter C
=
At 01:07 AM 12/18/2009, Oudesluys wrote:
>It is a known trick of the trade as is pouring down brake fluid (ATF 
>is another I have heard about). It might help a bit for a while but 
>the only proper way is doing it the hard way: lift the cilinder head 
>and remove the carbon deposits in the head, on the valves and on the 
>piston tops.
>Kees Oudesluijs
>NL
>
>Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
>>I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a cup or so of water
>>through each carb while the engine is running is a good way of 
>>cleaning out the  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this 
>>and were the fellow who
>>told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed it out of hand.
>>
>>So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it work?
>>
>>Best--Michael Oritt
>_______________________________________________

From ourxke at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 18 07:45:22 2009
From: ourxke at hotmail.com (Ken Wignall)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:45:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Ponzi BN2
In-Reply-To: <4b2adc33.9513f30a.5172.ffffbc56@mx.google.com>
References: <4b2adc33.9513f30a.5172.ffffbc56@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <COL108-W60E68C29626BC3C2875117D1850@phx.gbl>

The windscreen appears to be BN2 with the knobs on the top sides for clamping
the soft top, as well as the feet on the fender tops for reclining it.

> From: eyera3 at gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:35:56 -0800
> To: healeyrick at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
>
> Looks like it could be a one piece fiberglass front end on a 100-4 wierd
> looking cobra too.
>
> sent from my cellular PDA
> I Erbs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:00 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Ponzi BN2
>
> The ill gotten gains of an alleged Ponzi schemer are going up for auction
in
> Utah in January. Amongst the lots in the US Marshals auction is a BN2 with
> reputed chassis # of BN2L228002. The car pictured appears to be a Cobra kit
> car. http://www.salesandauction.com/jan710.htm Don't know if there is
> actually
> a BN2 for auction, but might be worth checking out if you're in the market.
> Here's the backstory on how the cars came up for
> auction:http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=9057978
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ourxke at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Fri Dec 18 08:16:14 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:16:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Chinese calipers thread size
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420119@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Anybody know the thread size of the bleeder screws for the Chinese BJ8
calipers? The wrench hex is 10 mm and what protrudes from the casting
seems to be just a bit under 9mm or .343 inches. A stock caliper is
1/4-28 thread. I don't want to remove the Chinese screws until I have
new Speed Bleeders in hand.
If I can't get a better pedal tomorrow, I will have to get the Speed
Bleeders or rebuild my old calipers.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Dec 18 09:22:09 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 11:22:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] heatre control parts
References: <173126440912171409g20e6eaf3j665f1e9368014746@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A20FBCA66DBD4A498D7B7B90ADB22A52@LIFEBOOK>

Ira,

The new replacement cables and knobs will do the job but there are small 
differences. The outer chrome threaded ring is much thicker on the repro. 
The knobs (Push and Pull) have their locking holes not quite in the right 
place so that you will have to carefully enlarge the holes for the shaft pin 
to be able to pop into place. The replacement cable for the heater air 
supply (right side) will need to be worked sharply into a spiralled S shape 
to fit from knob end to air flap end. Note the shape of the original you 
took out. It is quite easy to accidentally break that new control plate if 
these cables aren't worked into the right shape and adjusted carefully. Same 
for the heater slide control cable to the heater water valve.
Also make sure the rubber insulator sleeves attaching the two black feed 
wires through the heater boost switch are intact. Bare wires there from 
deteriorated insulation can be a hazard. If you don't want to bother with 
rubber shrink tubing, I've used some liquid connector coating (available 
from electronic supply stores) there with great success. Just brush on to 
the exposed surfaces and it sets up in minutes with a rubbery black coating.
I always simply clean the parts that Moss is calling their "mounting kit" 
and have the items replated (zinc). I'd guess the kit would consist of two 
10-32 thread long hex bolts, two lockwashers, two nuts, two shallow round 
spacers and two deep round spacers. Original red fibre packing pieces should 
also be used (use originals if necessry).

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:09 PM
Subject: [Healeys] heatre control parts


> while attempting to remove the fresh air control knob the entire knob and
> metal piece it attaches to broke off from the cable. Moss' online charts 
> are
> hard to decipher. can I buy the cable, knob and pull piece? If so what are
> he part #s. Also what for the other pull and knob. Might as well replace
> them both. Additioanlly, what comes in the
> *181* 
> <http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28932#top>
> *322-215* *$10.95*  *MOUNTING KIT, control panel*
>
>
> I bought a new panel, but it would be nice to replace the bolts and
> spacers....
> Thanks.
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR

From ahbugeye1 at bellsouth.net  Fri Dec 18 09:28:25 2009
From: ahbugeye1 at bellsouth.net (J E JR AUSTIN)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 08:28:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 REAR SEAT MOUNTING.
Message-ID: <557104.7919.qm@web180405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I need help again.
B 
I am trying to mount the rear seat on my BJ7 and am missing some of the
original mounting holes (they were lost during reconstruction surgery).B  I
have been unable to find a picture of this area that I am comfortable enough
withB  to start drilling.B 
My questions:
There are two holes that mount the seat brackets to the (inner wheel arch)
fender wells. The top hole is in place, but I am missing the bottom hole. I
need the measurement, from inside of the fender well, of the distance from the
rear mounting bump box bolt, to the center of the bottom mounting nut, for the
seat bracket. Ibm trying to make sure I get the seat set at the right angle.
The next item is the location of the hinges on the seat back and the mounting
holes in the body. Looking at the old back seat cover and the B<b plywood,
it looks like they mount inward about three inches from both sides. Could
someone verify this for me?B B  B Also, there is a 1b by B>b border around
the sides and top of the back plywood, but not at the bottom, as far as I can
determine (the bottom part of the seat back is missing).B  If the seat hinge
mounts to this B< inch plywood, it doesnbt seem that it would be very
sturdy, is this correct?B  In addition, does the hinge mount directly to the
chassis/ seat floor?B  The Service Parts List does show anything under the
hinge.
TIAB  Sam Austin

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 18 13:02:12 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:02:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <20091217203402.UWLZ1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
References: <B37B46A8-C695-4EE4-932B-A02C3E037225@pt.lu>,
	<20091217203402.UWLZ1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <COL106-W28D23E6C8BE511BE38E8CEC0850@phx.gbl>

Listmates,  Just remember, a small master cylinder bore will result in less
pedal pressure. And yes, it sounds counter intuitive but it is correct. Get
over it. The ONLY reason to use a larger bore master cylinder is if you need
to move a greater volume of fluid. For example, if your master cylinder piston
bottoms out. My suggestion is to all who read this -- start with a 5/8" master
cylinder and only go up in size if you need to move more fuid to makes things
work properly. Remember, bigger bore size means more pedal pressure!   Richard
Mayor

> From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au
> To: pieters at pt.lu
> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:33:56 +1000
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
>
> Hi Pieter
> I also had a 1"master cylinder on the BN1 with BJ8 front discs (though not
> tandem system) and had a hard pedal even with a PBR VH44 booster. Not a
good
> feeling. Went to 7/8" and now works well
>
> John Rowe Qld Australia
> BN1  BT7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda
> Sent: Friday, 18 December 2009 1:47 AM
> To: Alan Seigrist
> Cc: Healey Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
>
> I have the wilwood  1" bore tandem master cylinder in my BJ7 combined
> with four pot front calipers and rear discs. It is a straight bolt in
> fit and easy to plumb but the pedal pressure is high. I would recomend
> a 7/8 bore. I am fitting a tandem brake booster over the winter so we
> will see what the pedal pressure is like then,
> cheers
> Pieter
> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Fri Dec 18 17:10:58 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 19:10:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W28D23E6C8BE511BE38E8CEC0850@phx.gbl>
References: <B37B46A8-C695-4EE4-932B-A02C3E037225@pt.lu>,
	<20091217203402.UWLZ1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<COL106-W28D23E6C8BE511BE38E8CEC0850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B2C1A12.5000105@comcast.net>

It is not counter intuitive.  If the master cylinder bore is the same as 
the slave cylinder bore, you get a 1 to 1 advantage.  I believe a 5/8 
bore produces a 2 to 1 advantage due to a larger surface area at the slave.

Larry

richard mayor wrote:
> Listmates,  Just remember, a small master cylinder bore will result in less
> pedal pressure. And yes, it sounds counter intuitive but it is correct. Get
> over it. The ONLY reason to use a larger bore master cylinder is if you need
> to move a greater volume of fluid. For example, if your master cylinder piston
> bottoms out. My suggestion is to all who read this -- start with a 5/8" master
> cylinder and only go up in size if you need to move more fuid to makes things
> work properly. Remember, bigger bore size means more pedal pressure!   Richard
> Mayor
>
>   
>> From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au
>> To: pieters at pt.lu
>> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 06:33:56 +1000
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
>>
>> Hi Pieter
>> I also had a 1"master cylinder on the BN1 with BJ8 front discs (though not
>> tandem system) and had a hard pedal even with a PBR VH44 booster. Not a
>>     
> good
>   
>> feeling. Went to 7/8" and now works well
>>
>> John Rowe Qld Australia
>> BN1  BT7
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>   
>> On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda
>> Sent: Friday, 18 December 2009 1:47 AM
>> To: Alan Seigrist
>> Cc: Healey Mailing List
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Brake System
>>
>> I have the wilwood  1" bore tandem master cylinder in my BJ7 combined
>> with four pot front calipers and rear discs. It is a straight bolt in
>> fit and easy to plumb but the pedal pressure is high. I would recomend
>> a 7/8 bore. I am fitting a tandem brake booster over the winter so we
>> will see what the pedal pressure is like then,
>> cheers
>> Pieter
>> did see a Healey at Encounter in 2008 that had converted to a Dual
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Dec 18 19:28:41 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 02:28:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?decarbonizing?=
Message-ID: <20091219022841.16687.qmail@server278.com>

tried it on my car to see if i could stop the dieseling.  used a spray bottle and shot it in.  no luck.  could be i did not use enough, or did not put it in quickly enough, but definite dud for me.   hjim

From rhss at neo.rr.com  Fri Dec 18 21:20:09 2009
From: rhss at neo.rr.com (Bob)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 23:20:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WHERE TO BUY AMERICAN GASOLINE ?
Message-ID: <4B2C5479.6040608@neo.rr.com>


From keithbailey5 at bigpond.com  Fri Dec 18 22:42:45 2009
From: keithbailey5 at bigpond.com (Keith Bailey)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:42:45 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] tyres
Message-ID: <BEA3C3C858774D509F549029FF65D739@KeithDell>

Hi All
        Thank you for the advise offered in selecting tyres for my BT7
        Regards Keith
        BT7
        BN1

From grday at btinternet.com  Sat Dec 19 02:12:17 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 09:12:17 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] decarbonizing
References: <20091219022841.16687.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <5966792FCF7A44FFA7C2F2CA8ECE5711@user8634b3d69b>

Shouldn't it be poured in (approx 1 pint) around 3000rpm to make the engine 
cough, splutter and burp but not stop!  It will not alter your timing. 
<smile>

Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:28 AM
Subject: [Healeys] decarbonizing


> tried it on my car to see if i could stop the dieseling.  used a spray 
> bottle and shot it in.  no luck.  could be i did not use enough, or did 
> not put it in quickly enough, but definite dud for me.   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as grday at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Dec 19 13:27:28 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:27:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] King pins
Message-ID: <a06200701c752e56bd4d6@[192.168.1.100]>

I posted a question about this a while back and didn't get any 
responses, so I thought I'd have another go.
There was some excess metal left on the bottom of my new kingpins 
where they had been machined...specifically where the hole for the 
cotter pin meets the opening for the threaded fulcrum. I carefully 
cleaned this out, but I'd like to know how tight the fit of the 
threaded fulcrum should be. Is this an intereference fit like a 
bearing? Or is a bit of burr in there making it tighter than it 
should be. To put it more simply, what's the procedure of fitting the 
fulcrums usually like? The cotter pin seems tight too, before I get 
any thread coming out of the other end to get ahold of.
Hope this is clear,
Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Dec 19 14:23:21 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 21:23:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] King pins
In-Reply-To: <a06200701c752e56bd4d6@[192.168.1.100]>
References: <a06200701c752e56bd4d6@[192.168.1.100]>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W24135A708EB338632EC0EDA5840@phx.gbl>

I may be corrected on this, but in my opinion the threaded fulcrum pin should
be a tight sliding fit in the lower trunnion. When installed it should not
have any play and it should not rotate in use. If it is tight going together
that is probably good.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:27:28 -0500
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> From: s.hutchings at rogers.com
> Subject: [Healeys] King pins
>
> I posted a question about this a while back and didn't get any
> responses, so I thought I'd have another go.
> There was some excess metal left on the bottom of my new kingpins
> where they had been machined...specifically where the hole for the
> cotter pin meets the opening for the threaded fulcrum. I carefully
> cleaned this out, but I'd like to know how tight the fit of the
> threaded fulcrum should be. Is this an intereference fit like a
> bearing? Or is a bit of burr in there making it tighter than it
> should be. To put it more simply, what's the procedure of fitting the
> fulcrums usually like? The cotter pin seems tight too, before I get
> any thread coming out of the other end to get ahold of.
> Hope this is clear,
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Dec 19 15:33:37 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 17:33:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] King pins
In-Reply-To: <a06200701c752e56bd4d6@[192.168.1.100]>
References: <a06200701c752e56bd4d6@[192.168.1.100]>
Message-ID: <4B2D54C1.6000107@earthlink.net>

Stephen,

If you can feel any lip on the bore of the king pin, you should remove 
it.  The fulcrum pin needs to fit snuggly, with good contact all around 
the bore.  If there's lip that holds the fulcrum pin away from the 
surface, the joint may loosen over time.

You can remove a little material on the flat tapered section of the 
cotter pin with a file.  You don't want to change the angle of the 
taper, just make the cotter pin thinner.  The pin will then go in 
farther.  Just take a little bit off at a time and test fit it.  Repeat. 
  It's easier to remove material than to put it back on. :)

Bob

Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I posted a question about this a while back and didn't get any 
> responses, so I thought I'd have another go.
> There was some excess metal left on the bottom of my new kingpins where 
> they had been machined...specifically where the hole for the cotter pin 
> meets the opening for the threaded fulcrum. I carefully cleaned this 
> out, but I'd like to know how tight the fit of the threaded fulcrum 
> should be. Is this an intereference fit like a bearing? Or is a bit of 
> burr in there making it tighter than it should be. To put it more 
> simply, what's the procedure of fitting the fulcrums usually like? The 
> cotter pin seems tight too, before I get any thread coming out of the 
> other end to get ahold of.
> Hope this is clear,
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 19 15:55:46 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 14:55:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
Message-ID: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>

Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
been told hot water but nothing happens.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 19 16:11:47 2009
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:11:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <189447.11868.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <189447.11868.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <867843.92453.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

A little ice, a shot of espresso and some cream into the combustion chambers -
WaLa - instant Frappacinno

 



________________________________
From:
HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
To: Awgertoo at aol.com; Bob Haskell
<rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, December 17,
2009 7:50:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?

I've heard of
it ,too,  as well as pouring uncooked rice into the combustion
chambers.  I
think I'd rather go with Seafoam, or at the very least the old
reliable
"Italian Tune-Up"

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build: 
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 12/17/09, Bob Haskell
<rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
To: Awgertoo at aol.com
Cc:
healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 7:33 PM

I've heard
about it.  Would think that it would be easier to do on a down
draft carb than
the side draft SU.

Had a Toyota that blew a head gasket - to the coolant
passages.  The affected
cylinders didn't have a bit of carbon.

Bob
Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> I heard this from an LBC oldtimer today:  Pouring a
cup or so of water 
through each carb while the engine is running is a good
way of cleaning out
the  combustion chambers.  I have never heard of this and
were the fellow who 
told it to me not so experienced I would have dismissed
it out of hand.
>  So, has anyone ever run across this technique and does it
work?
>  Best--Michael Oritt  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 19 16:20:32 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:20:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B2D5FC0.50001@comcast.net>

Heat gun.


bs


Richard Kahn wrote:
> Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
> been told hot water but nothing happens.
> Rich Kahn
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 19 16:34:57 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 17:34:57 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B2D6321.1020504@comcast.net>


From cbaustin at verizon.net  Sat Dec 19 16:54:44 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 18:54:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
Message-ID: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>

    I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I
would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec. I believe
their part number is 7F for that pipe. This is for a '54 100 but I think all
the BN-1 sets are the same.

    If anyone has one, or a suitable alternative, offline is fine; regards and
thanks,

                                                                             
   CB

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Dec 19 17:03:53 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 16:03:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6887985F67504EFFB5180A4F8DBE0C22@LeonardPCPC>

Rich:  I Googled "remove+license+plate+stickers".  The suggestions on just 
the first page included:  chisel tip Xacto blade; regular hair dryer 
(already suggested on List if I recall.  It worked for me on Scotch Tape); 
steam plus 3M wax and adhesive remover; GooGone; steam from tea kettle; 
Spray & Wash; hair dryer or heat gun plus razor blade; heat plate from 
behind.  There would be others in the 224,000 links found.   ;-)

These suggestions pertained to various registration stickers as well as 
license plates.

Here is one from me:  If freezing chewing gum on a carpet makes it easy to 
remove, what would happen if you froze the licence plate/sticker then tried 
to get under it and pry it off?  Would it pop off or break?

It was noted that the adhesive used is designed to thwart theft of stickers 
and the stickers are very brittle and tear easily.  Extreme care must be 
taken.  I'm sure you already knew that.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers


> Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? 
> I've
> been told hot water but nothing happens.
> Rich Kahn

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 19 17:07:50 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 18:07:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <4B2D6321.1020504@comcast.net>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
	<4B2D6321.1020504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B2D6AD6.5050106@justbrits.com>

  << Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers
on the plates? >>

Richard, I've got 5 cars to do that job to and I use "Busty"
and brake cleaner I sell <G>.  [BEST in the world !!!!]  They
peel right off with small putty knife.

<< I've been told hot water but nothing happens. >>

Yep, I'll bet THAT wouldn't work <G> !!!

Ed
Please visit my site at:
www.justbrits.com

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Dec 19 17:22:08 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:22:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Decarbonizing technique?
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0912191621w4e384a65j3c66ca61568b924a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <189447.11868.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<867843.92453.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<d9b7a14d0912191621w4e384a65j3c66ca61568b924a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0912191622n4319e216o6b6f3ca30cbb6404@mail.gmail.com>

I picked up a can of Mopar combustion chamber cleaner for my Jeep from
my local parts guy.   He knew I had a Healey, and he cautioned me to
not use the stuff in my Healey.

- Tom

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Dec 19 18:11:57 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 17:11:57 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <4B2D6AD6.5050106@justbrits.com>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
	<4B2D6321.1020504@comcast.net> <4B2D6AD6.5050106@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <0903888C-9A21-4286-B4D5-0A89E4DC8B16@gmail.com>

What, or is that who, is "Busty"?
Inquiring minds want to know.
R

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 19, 2009, at 16:07, "Sales at \" Just Brits \"" <sales at justbrits.com 
 > wrote:

> << Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers
> on the plates? >>
>
> Richard, I've got 5 cars to do that job to and I use "Busty"
> and brake cleaner I sell <G>.  [BEST in the world !!!!]  They
> peel right off with small putty knife.

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Dec 19 19:30:45 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 21:30:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kingpins
Message-ID: <a06200704c7533b8b041a@[192.168.1.100]>

Thanks for all the answers.
It sounds like the consensus is that the threaded fulcrum piece 
should be tight and go in with a tap, the trick being to line up the 
flat for the cotter pin properly. It sounds like I may have to file 
the cotter pin so that it will go in far enough; has anybody else had 
to do this?

Stephen, BJ8

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 19 19:40:34 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 18:40:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <869201.24355.qm@web111415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Rich
   I have not tried to remove license plate stickers specifically but I have
found that "Besteen Rubber Cement Thinner"  is solvent for most adhesives and
will not attack paint or plastic.  You can get it at your art supply store.  I
suggest soaking over time with careful probing of the glue joint with a thin
blade (like a pallet knife, also from the art store)  The stickers get crispy
when old so be careful.  Lacquer thinner would be my next choice but it might
affect the paint.  Try it on the back of the plate first.
   You got me thinking now.  I am going to dig out an old plate if I can find
one and see what works.  There are several other options like "Goof Off" but
they can attack some paint.
Regards
Ray Juncal

--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:55 PM

Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
been told hot water but nothing happens.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
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From editorgary at aol.com  Sat Dec 19 23:47:53 2009
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 01:47:53 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Tires
Message-ID: <66fe.2c92aece.385f2299@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/19/09 11:33:12 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


>
>         Thank you for the advise offered in selecting tyres for my BT7
>

So, what did you buy and from where?

Thanks
Gary

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Sun Dec 20 06:44:17 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:44:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1913.1261276839.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1913.1261276839.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B2E2A31.8050808@comcast.net>

Richard Kahn wrote:
 > Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates?
 > I've been told hot water but nothing happens.

I assume the sticker is some mylar/plastic sticker. One suggestion I haven't 
seen is WD-40. It has solvents that might work. You may have to peel a little, 
spray a little, let it work a little, peel a little, ...  It should also clean 
up the left-over adhesive.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Sun Dec 20 07:12:06 2009
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:12:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kingpins
In-Reply-To: <a06200704c7533b8b041a@[192.168.1.100]>
References: <a06200704c7533b8b041a@[192.168.1.100]>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E489BDF9@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Yes, we had to file the cotter pin quite a bit to get the pin all the
way in on two different sets

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 9:31 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kingpins

Thanks for all the answers.
It sounds like the consensus is that the threaded fulcrum piece
should be tight and go in with a tap, the trick being to line up the
flat for the cotter pin properly. It sounds like I may have to file
the cotter pin so that it will go in far enough; has anybody else had
to do this?

Stephen, BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Sun Dec 20 08:42:17 2009
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:42:17 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
In-Reply-To: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
References: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
Message-ID: <9baa446a0912200742j703a25c2qd33ce3761be706fe@mail.gmail.com>

i'm sure you can get a steel one from mr. finespanner, doug reid.
cheers,

On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 5:54 PM, Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net> wrote:

>    I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I
> would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec. I believe
> their part number is 7F for that pipe. This is for a '54 100 but I think
> all
> the BN-1 sets are the same.
>
>    If anyone has one, or a suitable alternative, offline is fine; regards
> and
> thanks,
>
>
>   CB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 20 12:30:32 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 14:30:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ce473f960912201130m204996ffg85f7849aced3223c@mail.gmail.com>

Are you trying to get a whole stack of them off at once, or trying to
remove them individually to get to a specific year? I had no trouble
with a stack of them this year but just prying underneath a corner of
the bottom sticker and they all pretty much just popped off because
the stack was too stiff to bend.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 5:55 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
> been told hot water but nothing happens.
> Rich Kahn
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bjsbj8 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Dec 20 13:03:17 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 12:03:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?license_plate_stickers?=
Message-ID: <20091220200317.10353.qmail@hoster902.com>

I've used both Bestine and lacquer thinner to remove stickers from California plates without any ill effects.

What's worked best for me was to gradually slide a single-edge razor blade under the [usually a stack of] stickers, then use a rag and lacquer thinner to wipe off the adhesive residue.

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Sun Dec 20 15:35:11 2009
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 15:35:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  license plate stickers
Message-ID: <SNT104-DS185FEEFAC07C063C333A94E9830@phx.gbl>

ah ... hot air hair dryer ....

works for yearly boat stickers as well ...

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Boston Whaler

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 20 17:43:31 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:43:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Yom stickers
Message-ID: <COL121-W526CD5B953732773C8D10CA4820@phx.gbl>

It was pointed out to me that the 1964 sticker was on the LEFT side and I
noticed that the sticker at the bottom of that pile (which was covered by the
month sticker) was a white sticker which might indicate a 64 registration. I
had used a exacto to get the right side off destroying all the sticker in the
process. I will try the heat gun next and if that doesn't work I'll try the
Goof-off cause I have some. I'll try it on the back first. I also purchased a
NOS 64 sticker on E-bay so if I do destroy what is there I can use that one.
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I hadn't thought of the heat gun
before.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From noreply at ci.faniq.com  Sun Dec 20 19:31:31 2009
From: noreply at ci.faniq.com (Joe M)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:31:31 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen@yahoo.com) has sent you a private
	message
Message-ID: <20091221023131.5DC6D187889@autox.team.net>


From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Dec 21 01:59:28 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:59:28 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <869201.24355.qm@web111415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
	<869201.24355.qm@web111415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6172E5472BAB43FAA46F341BAF1AB272@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

I have found that eucalyptus oil is perfect for removing glue and the like
and it does not affect the underlying surface.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
Sent: Sunday, 20 December 2009 1:41 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: List Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] license plate stickers

Rich
   I have not tried to remove license plate stickers specifically but I have
found that "Besteen Rubber Cement Thinner"  is solvent for most adhesives
and
will not attack paint or plastic.  You can get it at your art supply store.
I
suggest soaking over time with careful probing of the glue joint with a thin
blade (like a pallet knife, also from the art store)  The stickers get
crispy
when old so be careful.  Lacquer thinner would be my next choice but it
might
affect the paint.  Try it on the back of the plate first.
   You got me thinking now.  I am going to dig out an old plate if I can
find
one and see what works.  There are several other options like "Goof Off" but
they can attack some paint.
Regards
Ray Juncal

--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:55 PM

Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
been told hot water but nothing happens.
Rich Kahn

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Mon Dec 21 12:08:34 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 11:08:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 6 on Craigs list
Message-ID: <8D30930BE6D84D68A1271C0A0FF21D75@cardinalhealth.net>

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1511242079.html

This is based north of Sacramento.  If anyone is interested, I live about 6
miles from the car and can go look at it for you.

I don't like the color but maybe someone else does.

Jerry
BN4
BJ8

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Mon Dec 21 13:39:12 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 12:39:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 6 on Craigs list
In-Reply-To: <8D30930BE6D84D68A1271C0A0FF21D75@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <8D30930BE6D84D68A1271C0A0FF21D75@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAAISBaf4tVsZIv1Hzpl8FDRIBAAAAAA==@cox.net>

"no rust"?
I guess I have to revise my definition of rust very liberally.
Think it is an original gold or is that out of a spray can?
Nice original CA plates!
Ron

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Dec 21 15:29:58 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 14:29:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
Message-ID: <7F8AEB042AE847149A9164AAE5B97FBD@LeonardPCPC>

Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:

http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Dec 21 16:02:22 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:02:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
Message-ID: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>

Try the same test with a '59 Buick or '59 Cadillac and see if the results
are the same.....

> Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj
> 
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> _______________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
Senior Assisted Living
Put your loved ones in good hands with quality senior assisted living. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=TU3medxUn98xVhvJIv0JJAAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASUQAAAAA=

From drmasucci at comcast.net  Mon Dec 21 16:35:27 2009
From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:35:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>

While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer than their 
50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.

With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new Chevy 
would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the list that 
could comment. I was under the impression that at that impact speed, even in 
modern cars your chances of serious injury or death is very high.

Dave
BJ8


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And 
that's a good thing:"


> Try the same test with a '59 Buick or '59 Cadillac and see if the results
> are the same.....
>
>> Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj
>>
>> (The Other) Len
>> Vacaville, CA, USA
>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Dec 21 18:06:08 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 01:06:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>

An 80 MPH closing speed means both vehicles were traveling at 40 MPH. That's
not all that fast. Colliding with another vehicle instead of an immovable
object would lessen the impact due to the structural collapse of both
vehicles. The newer car is stiffer and has structural elements that channel
the forces away from the passenger compartment. It also had functional air
bags that absorbed the force of the passenger's body to mitigate injury. The
foot injury would likely be caused by collapse of the wheel well/footwell
structure, which is a common weak point. The rider in the older car basically
turns into a projectile and is at the mercy of the designers of the car. In
the 50s hard surfaces and sharp objects were quite common in automobile
interiors.
Take a look at the steering column on your Healey. Now if that's not an
incentive to drive it responsibly...
Bill Lawrence

> From: drmasucci at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:35:27 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And
that's a good thing:"
>
> While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer than their
> 50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.
>
> With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new Chevy
> would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the list that
> could comment. I was under the impression that at that impact speed, even in
> modern cars your chances of serious injury or death is very high.
>
> Dave
> BJ8

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Mon Dec 21 18:14:59 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 17:14:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
Message-ID: <8FF42C7A-20B9-497F-AEBC-1F75F01F8D13@cox.net>

Yes chances of death or serious injury are high. But way lower than an  
old clunker. Even a Cadillac or Buick. Huge mass can help, but also  
HURT you. There aren't crumple zones like newer cars have to aborb  
that impact.

As the article and video points out, newer cars are safer. Get over it.

Wilko

On Dec 21, 2009, at 3:35 PM, David Masucci wrote:

> While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer  
> than their 50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.
>
> With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new  
> Chevy would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the  
> list that could comment. I was under the impression that at that  
> impact speed, even in modern cars your chances of serious injury or  
> death is very high.
>
> Dave
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> To: <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to.  
> And that's a good thing:"
>
>
>> Try the same test with a '59 Buick or '59 Cadillac and see if the  
>> results
>> are the same.....
>>
>>> Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj
>>>
>>> (The Other) Len
>>> Vacaville, CA, USA
>>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Dec 21 18:27:20 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:27:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP98497498E6898F932723F9C3810@phx.gbl>

In 1997 my wife was involved in a head-on collision with an estimated 
combined impact speed of 140 kph (It was a highway with an 80 kph (50 mph) 
speed limit).  She was driving a 1989 Saab 900 and the other driver was in a 
newer small Chevy (I can't recall the model).  The Saab was amazing.  The 
front end absorbed  the energy in a text-book example of good engineering. 
The engine was pushed under the car, the windshield popped forward, the 
padded steering wheel moved up and the centre section absorbed the impact of 
my wife's face hitting it. The passenger compartment was compressed by about 
4 inches, which jammed the door, bit it never popped open.  The sunroof 
stayed in place and the passenger door opened normally.  This was a pre-air 
bag car and the seat belt compression ruptured her spleen - that was nearly 
fatal but the ICU caught it and removed it in time preventing her from 
suffocation as her body cavity filled with blood and compressed the lung 
cavity.   She was in intensive care for weeks, but now you would never know 
she was in an accident and rides her bike downtown shopping and power-walks 
with the girls three times a week.  The fellow in the other car fared worse, 
but likely because he was elderly and had pre-existing medical conditions. 
He none-the-less survived.  That incident absolutely convinced me of the 
extraordinary safety improvements that have been integrated into modern 
cars.  You definitely can survive a high impact crash with modern 
technology, albeit with a lot of family anguish and pain.

cheers,

Mirek
60 BT7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Masucci" <drmasucci at comcast.net>
I was under the impression that at that impact speed, even in
> modern cars your chances of serious injury or death is very high.

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Dec 21 18:44:47 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:44:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>, ,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>

I remember, back in the early 50's, people being impaled by the steering
column when the wheel broke away.

Bill

BJ7

> From: ynotink at msn.com
> To: drmasucci at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 01:06:08 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And
that's a good thing:"
>
> An 80 MPH closing speed means both vehicles were traveling at 40 MPH.
That's
> not all that fast. Colliding with another vehicle instead of an immovable
> object would lessen the impact due to the structural collapse of both
> vehicles. The newer car is stiffer and has structural elements that channel
> the forces away from the passenger compartment. It also had functional air
> bags that absorbed the force of the passenger's body to mitigate injury.
The
> foot injury would likely be caused by collapse of the wheel well/footwell
> structure, which is a common weak point. The rider in the older car
basically
> turns into a projectile and is at the mercy of the designers of the car. In
> the 50s hard surfaces and sharp objects were quite common in automobile
> interiors.
> Take a look at the steering column on your Healey. Now if that's not an
> incentive to drive it responsibly...
> Bill Lawrence

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Dec 21 19:08:02 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:08:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen@yahoo.com) has sent you a private
 message
In-Reply-To: <20091221023131.5DC6D187889@autox.team.net>
References: <20091221023131.5DC6D187889@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <COL109-W36B864480F42CC45EACF81AD810@phx.gbl>

Ok! Just who is this,  cause I imagine all of us got this message. I know
that, sure as hell, I'm not about to open this!
Bill
BJ7
> From: noreply at ci.faniq.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:31:31 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a private
message

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 19:11:56 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:11:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0912211811v288d8a1ak63f57f5e5c76436d@mail.gmail.com>

Yup, that steering wheel is a safety feature.   One must engage the
brain before engaging the clutch.   What's scary is the feeling of
invincibility many drivers get from all the "safety" features in
modern cars.

- Tom

On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 8:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> An 80 MPH closing speed means both vehicles were traveling at 40 MPH. That's
> not all that fast. Colliding with another vehicle instead of an immovable
> object would lessen the impact due to the structural collapse of both
> vehicles. The newer car is stiffer and has structural elements that channel
> the forces away from the passenger compartment. It also had functional air
> bags that absorbed the force of the passenger's body to mitigate injury. The
> foot injury would likely be caused by collapse of the wheel well/footwell
> structure, which is a common weak point. The rider in the older car basically
> turns into a projectile and is at the mercy of the designers of the car. In
> the 50s hard surfaces and sharp objects were quite common in automobile
> interiors.
> Take a look at the steering column on your Healey. Now if that's not an
> incentive to drive it responsibly...
> Bill Lawrence

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Dec 21 20:30:28 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Shop at " Just Brits ")
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:30:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] ... Last message from Bob Duncan of Yahoo Bugeye List,
	etal.
Message-ID: <4B303D54.7040908@justbrits.com>

I have been in contact with Bob's wife Carol a
couple times.


Carol has approved and requested that I "offer-up"
a LBC obit which may be seen & read on ILLINI
Chapter's site for your review & possible
donation(s).  This note will be also be going out to a
few other LBC site for their prayers & good wishes.

http://www.illiniahca.org/BobDuncanObit.html

I have also chatted with Kate, his daughter and she
would like to convey a HUGE Thank You to the
LBC World.

Bob LOVED his Sprite and will be missed.

Regards................

Ed

From csooch1 at aol.com  Mon Dec 21 20:32:51 2009
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:32:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <7F8AEB042AE847149A9164AAE5B97FBD@LeonardPCPC>
References: <7F8AEB042AE847149A9164AAE5B97FBD@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <2625D3D81A1F4F7BB1F53F437DC516D1@ChrisPC>

Just a little Physics since I am a big geek.  This is one of my favorite
sites http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/HFrame.html Since these
speeds are not relativistic we can use the standard energy equation:

E = 1/2 mv^2 (one-half m v squared)

So, are two cars moving at 40MPH striking each other releasing more energy
than one car hitting a brick wall at 80MPH?  Lets assume the mass is 1500kg
(3300lbs) for all cars and that each car, on impact, stops in about
0.5meters.

For the two car crash where each is going 40MPH and they hit head on, both
cars are subjected to an impact force, to stop in a half meter, of about
(479,627 Newtons) 54 tons.

For the one car crash where the one car is going 80MPH, that the one car is
subjected to an impact force, to stop in a half meter, of about (1,918,510
Newtons) 216 tons.

Yeah...drive slower this season.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 4:30 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And that's a
good thing:"

Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:

http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 21 20:40:36 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:40:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <7F8AEB042AE847149A9164AAE5B97FBD@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <344143.25409.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Len ... When I had my shop in San Francisco in the 1960's we  had a Austin
Healey in the shop that had been in a crash , the steering column had been
pushed into the driver andhis hands had bent the steering wheel well forward
... don't know what happened to the driver ... Norman Nock

--- On Mon, 12/21/09, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
wrote:

From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Subject: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And that's a
good thing:"
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, December 21, 2009, 2:29 PM

Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:

http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Dec 21 20:41:10 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:41:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen@yahoo.com) has sent you a private
 message
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W36B864480F42CC45EACF81AD810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221023131.5DC6D187889@autox.team.net>
	<COL109-W36B864480F42CC45EACF81AD810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F7975956373D44D6827C49DC788316A9@LeonardPCPC>

Bill:  I Googled 'joemulqueen' and came up with a link to 
jowmulqueen at yahoo.com.   According to the link, there was a communiction 
with someone who soundproofed the underside of his seatbox, tunnel and 
floorboards.  Further research leads me to believe that he is a Land Rover 
owner.

This preclude the fact that someone may not have perloined his name and 
address from someone's computer and bad things could happen is you open the 
e-mail.  There does seem to be an automotive connection however.

Again, according to Googlle, 'noreply" is a Mod that allows you to have all 
emails sent through SMF's send_mail function to be from a defined email 
address (usually noreply at domain.tld) to allow you to have emails handled 
when people reply (all based on server mail configuration). All mail not 
sent though SMF's send_mail function will not have this message suffixed on 
it.

Do NOTask ME to explain that.  I am highly computer challenged with the 
exception of being able to get to Google.   ;-)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <insptwo at msn.com>
To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a private 
message


> Ok! Just who is this,  cause I imagine all of us got this message. I know
> that, sure as hell, I'm not about to open this!
> Bill
> BJ7
>> From: noreply at ci.faniq.com
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:31:31 -0700
>> Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a private
> message
> _______________________________________________

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Mon Dec 21 21:22:25 2009
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:22:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seal
Message-ID: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>

Fellow listers,
I recently received two hub seals for the rear wheels from Moss #535-085. They
are not like the originals. They do not have the spring or the metal backing.
Has anyone had any experience using these seals?
Also, I've had a devil of a time removing the old seals. I've got one out but
worked on it for about two hours trying to pry it out with a screw driver. I'm
afraid I might have scored the sealing surfaces. Is there a secret to it that
I'm not aware of?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Elton
BJ7 in progress

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Dec 21 21:39:50 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:39:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen@yahoo.com) has sent you a private
 message
References: <20091221023131.5DC6D187889@autox.team.net><COL109-W36B864480F42CC45EACF81AD810@phx.gbl>
	<F7975956373D44D6827C49DC788316A9@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <C9BCAEE5B0DE4149A413C218E2E39493@XPS400>

Joe is a friend of mine and I believe he is still a member of this list 
although I am not sure about that.  He send me an email saying that the 
earlier email was not from him and to delete it.

Ron Fine


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a private 
message


> Bill:  I Googled 'joemulqueen' and came up with a link to 
> jowmulqueen at yahoo.com.   According to the link, there was a communiction 
> with someone who soundproofed the underside of his seatbox, tunnel and 
> floorboards.  Further research leads me to believe that he is a Land Rover 
> owner.
>
> This preclude the fact that someone may not have perloined his name and 
> address from someone's computer and bad things could happen is you open 
> the e-mail.  There does seem to be an automotive connection however.
>
> Again, according to Googlle, 'noreply" is a Mod that allows you to have 
> all emails sent through SMF's send_mail function to be from a defined 
> email address (usually noreply at domain.tld) to allow you to have emails 
> handled when people reply (all based on server mail configuration). All 
> mail not sent though SMF's send_mail function will not have this message 
> suffixed on it.
>
> Do NOTask ME to explain that.  I am highly computer challenged with the 
> exception of being able to get to Google.   ;-)
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <insptwo at msn.com>
> To: "healey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a 
> private message
>
>
>> Ok! Just who is this,  cause I imagine all of us got this message. I know
>> that, sure as hell, I'm not about to open this!
>> Bill
>> BJ7
>>> From: noreply at ci.faniq.com
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 19:31:31 -0700
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Joe M (joemulqueen at yahoo.com) has sent you a private
>> message
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ronfineesq at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 21 22:38:02 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 05:38:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seal
In-Reply-To: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>
References: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>
Message-ID: <COL106-W158CABEB09DD128920209FC0810@phx.gbl>

Yes Elton, There is a tool called a "seal remover". Modestly priced and well
worth it.

> From: eschulz at frontiernet.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 23:22:25 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seal
>
> Fellow listers,
> I recently received two hub seals for the rear wheels from Moss #535-085.
They
> are not like the originals. They do not have the spring or the metal
backing.
> Has anyone had any experience using these seals?
> Also, I've had a devil of a time removing the old seals. I've got one out
but
> worked on it for about two hours trying to pry it out with a screw driver.
I'm
> afraid I might have scored the sealing surfaces. Is there a secret to it
that
> I'm not aware of?
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Elton
> BJ7 in progress
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 21 22:38:43 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:38:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Removal
Message-ID: <0CA412B14DAF42E88095339FF2EE018A@PaulPC>

RE:  '67 BJ8

 

Ok..so I am of weak mind and strong back and a bit of a sucker for
punishment.

 

One of my projects this winter is to lower the car by about 1"...just don't
like the way the rear of the Mark 3 BJ8 sits..too high.  Also, I have a rear
sway bar that's been taking space in my garage waiting for installation.

 

While getting into this job, I started thinking thinking that I've done the
transmission and engine so I might as well finish the drive train and do the
axle.nothing particularly wrong with it..bit of play but nothing terrible.

 

So, I have a couple of questions:

 

1.	To get the axle out, I need to slide it over the frame and springs.
While Haynes recommends this approach, I'm looking at the pumpkin and
wondering if will actually fit (even with rotating it);

 

2.	I assume it make sense to replace the bushing on the tie bars while
I"ve got everything apart.  However, am a little concerned that once I start
I'm going to find the bolts/nuts frozen and get myself into a bit of a jam.
Likewise for the bushings on the springs.

 

3.	Is this something where you leave well enough alone?

 

Thanks fro the help.all advice and comments appreciated as always.

 

Paul

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 21 22:41:38 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:41:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Car Height needed
Message-ID: <572CE5494B41496CB1486F868FD54457@PaulPC>

I'm hoping that somebody can give me the height of an any 3000 big healey
(except late model BJ8).

 

I need the height from the ground to the top of the arch on the front and
back wheel wells.  Also, please give me tire size so I know that I'm
comparing apples to apples.

 

The purpose is to determine by how much I want to lower my late model BJ8,

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Paul

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 23:29:21 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:29:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seal
In-Reply-To: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>
References: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912212229n101fd6a6q51e057c8eb2c940e@mail.gmail.com>

Elton -

No one sells those old seals anymore.  The new ones are metal backed
too, but the metal is under the rubber.

The seals should be ok, the modern rubbers don't weaken with age like
the older seals with the spring.  If you have concerns take the seal
to your local NAPA store and they'll be able to match the size...

Alan

On 12/22/09, Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Fellow listers,
> I recently received two hub seals for the rear wheels from Moss #535-085.
> They
> are not like the originals. They do not have the spring or the metal
> backing.
> Has anyone had any experience using these seals?
> Also, I've had a devil of a time removing the old seals. I've got one out
> but
> worked on it for about two hours trying to pry it out with a screw driver.
> I'm
> afraid I might have scored the sealing surfaces. Is there a secret to it
> that
> I'm not aware of?
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Elton
> BJ7 in progress
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 22 01:47:09 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:47:09 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
Message-ID: <4B30878D.4030909@chello.nl>

The combined speed difference is not the same as the impact speed 
against a solid object, that is half that: 40mph in this case. The 
standard impact test these days is around 40mph depending on the country 
the test is done. These days it is an frontal offset impact test against 
a crush  barrier. Before it was a 30mph full frontal impact test against 
a solid barrier which was more severe on acceleration (decelleration if 
you like) of the testdummies and cars. These modern tests are more 
severe on intrusion of parts in the passenger compartiment, which is 
clearly shown in the video.
In the best performing cars you survive with no injuries at all, but all 
have to perform to the level that no serious injury occurs in this 
standardised test.
If you hit a solid object at 80mph it will be certain death, unless you 
are extremely lucky.
We have come a long way, but do not forget that cars are very 
specifically designed to meet these specific safety tests, but they 
could perform very very poor in accidents that do not follow the lines 
of these tests, e.g. at a slightly different angle or a smaller or 
bigger off set.
Remember, the car industry wants to sell cars and is not realy 
interested in your safety. It will go as far as it legally has to. And 
as we all know, laws are not nearly sufficient.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


David Masucci schreef:
> While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer than 
> their 50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.
>
> With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new 
> Chevy would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the 
> list that could comment. I was under the impression that at that 
> impact speed, even in modern cars your chances of serious injury or 
> death is very high.
>
> Dave
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "dwflagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> To: <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. 
> And that's a good thing:"
>
>
>> Try the same test with a '59 Buick or '59 Cadillac and see if the 
>> results
>> are the same.....
>>
>>> Autoweek magazine, December 14, 2009:
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/y86vrwj
>>>
>>> (The Other) Len
>>> Vacaville, CA, USA
>>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.717 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.116/2580 - datum van uitgifte: 12/21/09 20:13:00

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 22 02:05:26 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 04:05:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Removal
References: <0CA412B14DAF42E88095339FF2EE018A@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <000a01ca82e5$e750bbf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Hey we're tough Healey guys.  If we didn't like a challenge or two then we 
would all own Miatas.  ; )

Soak the rear spring bolts and bushings well in advance with Kroil or PB 
blaster.   Heat from a torch
may be of some help too but of course be careful there.   I used a saws all 
( again, very carefully) to
saw one bolt off.  However if you  can get a long sturdy punch and hammer on 
the end of the bolts
you can drive them out with some persistence and the PB blaster soaking.

Some people have burned the rubber bushes out but your still stuck with 
getting the  bolts out and the
burning rubber is definitely sickening so this probably is not a good idea.

Definitely an easier job if the car is up on a lift.

On the "Big Healey Restoration" project video that I have I noticed that 
they installed the rear axle without the gear unit and axles installed to 
make it lighter and easier to slide out the side.   But they also used 3 
guys.
Its really not that heavy once you get the guts removed.

Yes this is one of those jobs where you do a Victory Dance after wards cause 
it can be a real bear
if the rust bug is present.

Good Luck,   Mark





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: "'healey'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Removal


> RE:  '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> Ok..so I am of weak mind and strong back and a bit of a sucker for
> punishment.
>
>
>
> One of my projects this winter is to lower the car by about 1"...just 
> don't
> like the way the rear of the Mark 3 BJ8 sits..too high.  Also, I have a 
> rear
> sway bar that's been taking space in my garage waiting for installation.
>
>
>
> While getting into this job, I started thinking thinking that I've done 
> the
> transmission and engine so I might as well finish the drive train and do 
> the
> axle.nothing particularly wrong with it..bit of play but nothing terrible.
>
>
>
> So, I have a couple of questions:
>
>
>
> 1. To get the axle out, I need to slide it over the frame and springs.
> While Haynes recommends this approach, I'm looking at the pumpkin and
> wondering if will actually fit (even with rotating it);
>
>
>
> 2. I assume it make sense to replace the bushing on the tie bars while
> I"ve got everything apart.  However, am a little concerned that once I 
> start
> I'm going to find the bolts/nuts frozen and get myself into a bit of a 
> jam.
> Likewise for the bushings on the springs.
>
>
>
> 3. Is this something where you leave well enough alone?
>
>
>
> Thanks fro the help.all advice and comments appreciated as always.
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 22 02:07:46 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 04:07:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seal
References: <E170B8C0570A4DE59972DDD1E35F3AA0@655vb01>
	<ff59076c0912212229n101fd6a6q51e057c8eb2c940e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01ca82e6$3a936e70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Or a bearing service company if Napa can't help.

ML


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Elton Schulz" <eschulz at frontiernet.net>; "Healey List" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear hub seal


> Elton -
>
> No one sells those old seals anymore.  The new ones are metal backed
> too, but the metal is under the rubber.
>
> The seals should be ok, the modern rubbers don't weaken with age like
> the older seals with the spring.  If you have concerns take the seal
> to your local NAPA store and they'll be able to match the size...
>
> Alan
>
> On 12/22/09, Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net> wrote:
>> Fellow listers,
>> I recently received two hub seals for the rear wheels from Moss #535-085.
>> They
>> are not like the originals. They do not have the spring or the metal
>> backing.
>> Has anyone had any experience using these seals?
>> Also, I've had a devil of a time removing the old seals. I've got one out
>> but
>> worked on it for about two hours trying to pry it out with a screw 
>> driver.
>> I'm
>> afraid I might have scored the sealing surfaces. Is there a secret to it
>> that
>> I'm not aware of?
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>> Thanks,
>> Elton
>> BJ7 in progress
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Dec 22 02:51:25 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 20:51:25 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Height needed
In-Reply-To: <572CE5494B41496CB1486F868FD54457@PaulPC>
References: <572CE5494B41496CB1486F868FD54457@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <03014DA9-E5AD-4BAB-BA70-A554895AC1D2@gmail.com>

Hi Paul,
I know you said you didn't want Bj8 measurements, but I thought you  
might like to know what is possible on a road registered BJ8....
My phase 2 late BJ8 is 25 inches from the ground to the edge of the  
guard, on the front drivers side wheel, measured at the centre of the  
knockoff
The drivers side rear is 25 1/4 inches, measured the same way.
The 1/4" at the rear is to compensate for my mass in the drivers seat,  
part of the cornerweighting procedure.
That's with the current road tyres fitted, 195 65 15.

Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/12/2009, at 4:41 PM, "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> I'm hoping that somebody can give me the height of an any 3000 big  
> healey
> (except late model BJ8).
>
>
>
> I need the height from the ground to the top of the arch on the  
> front and
> back wheel wells.  Also, please give me tire size so I know that I'm
> comparing apples to apples.

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Dec 22 04:25:54 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 06:25:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Removal
In-Reply-To: <0CA412B14DAF42E88095339FF2EE018A@PaulPC>
References: <0CA412B14DAF42E88095339FF2EE018A@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <7fa0e5c60912220325t4c9ef15bt44f1a3e81e35fd20@mail.gmail.com>

Well Paul this is actually a complex subject. One of the failings of the
earlier Healeys, in the opinion of the press at the time, was that the ride
was just too stiff for the American palate, or probably more correctly
"backside". The modification in 1965 to install a dip in the frame and
soften the rear springs to provide more travel was intended to address this.

As a result of this you will find that lowering the rear without adding
stiffer springs  will result in the axle frequently hitting the bump stops
which is a definite no no when improved handling s the goal but, if that is
the route that you want to go then "you go boy".
The Healey rear axle is a very robust unit, and will probably not be in need
of any major work, but a major inspection and cleanup is an honorable task
and should keep you entertained for a few days.
As you will be disassembling it I woould strongly recommend removing the
half shafts and pumpkin and even one brake back plate before attempting to
remove the housing from the car.
If you car has been in a "rust producing" environment at any time your will
probably find that the bolts inside the rubber bushes of both the radius
arms and spring eye bushes are seized into the metal sleeves in the bushes.
These can be a bear to remove and I usually resort to cutting through the
bolts and part of the sleeve with a "Sabresaw" or similar device of mass
destruction in order to remove the axle.
Good luck.
BTW if you are considering installing an anti roll bar on the back I would
suggest taht you read this article on my blog before you do.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=71

Michael Salter

On Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 12:38 AM, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

> RE:  '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> Ok..so I am of weak mind and strong back and a bit of a sucker for
> punishment.
>
>
>
> One of my projects this winter is to lower the car by about 1"...just don't
> like the way the rear of the Mark 3 BJ8 sits..too high.  Also, I have a
> rear
> sway bar that's been taking space in my garage waiting for installation.
>
>
>
> While getting into this job, I started thinking thinking that I've done the
> transmission and engine so I might as well finish the drive train and do
> the
> axle.nothing particularly wrong with it..bit of play but nothing terrible.
>
>
>
> So, I have a couple of questions:
>
>
>
> 1.      To get the axle out, I need to slide it over the frame and springs.
> While Haynes recommends this approach, I'm looking at the pumpkin and
> wondering if will actually fit (even with rotating it);
>
>
>
> 2.      I assume it make sense to replace the bushing on the tie bars while
> I"ve got everything apart.  However, am a little concerned that once I
> start
> I'm going to find the bolts/nuts frozen and get myself into a bit of a jam.
> Likewise for the bushings on the springs.
>
>
>
> 3.      Is this something where you leave well enough alone?
>
>
>
> Thanks fro the help.all advice and comments appreciated as always.
>
>
>
> Paul

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Dec 22 06:44:04 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:44:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 6 on Craigs list
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2400.1261453240.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2400.1261453240.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B30CD24.9020804@comcast.net>

Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1511242079.html

Whoa! Flashback!  My very first car, bought in 1968, was a 1959 100/6, painted 
gold with black coves. It looked just like that one. I paid $600 for it, and 
spent the summer of my 15th year bondoing, sanding, and painting it BRG.  I also 
redid the interior with new black carpet and (Lord, forgive me) white Naugahyde 
seats.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec 22 07:47:24 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:47:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,
	, , <8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>, ,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>

There is a picture of a Healey, in a book ( I think ) that escapes me at the
moment, that clearly shows the steering column and its angle towards the
driver.  I believe that it uses the word 'spear', but I could be wrong.  It is
sobering.



Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )


> From: insptwo at msn.com
>
> I remember, back in the early 50's, people being impaled by the steering
> column when the wheel broke away.
>
> Bill
> BJ7
>
> > From: ynotink at msn.com
...

> > Take a look at the steering column on your Healey. Now if that's not an
> > incentive to drive it responsibly...
> > Bill Lawrence

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Dec 22 08:15:36 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:15:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,, ,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>,
	, <BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
	<BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342012E@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I sure wouldn't worry about it. I T-boned a large pickup in 1971 with a
100-6 at 60 MPH. It bent the pickup frame into a U. I broke my nose
against the steering wheel. The wheel rim separated from the spokes.
That was my only injury. My dad thought that was a pretty good car after
that so we got another. A roll bar came with the car but we never got
around to installing it.
I rolled the replacement BJ8. Still no roll bar and no injuries.

Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Dec 22 08:21:47 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:21:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,	, ,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>, ,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
	<BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B30E40B.3070706@comcast.net>

I have no data--crash test or otherwise--but I suspect given the 
location of the steering box (what, about a foot off the ground?) and 
the height of contemporary bumpers the steering box and column would be 
pushed down more than back in a head-on or rear-end collision.

Of course, that probably means the driver would do a serious face plant 
on the steering wheel.


bs


robertduquette at sympatico.ca wrote:
> There is a picture of a Healey, in a book ( I think ) that escapes me at the
> moment, that clearly shows the steering column and its angle towards the
> driver.  I believe that it uses the word 'spear', but I could be wrong.  It is
> sobering.
>
>
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec 22 08:40:23 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 15:40:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <4B30E40B.3070706@comcast.net>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,	, ,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>, ,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
	<BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>,
	<4B30E40B.3070706@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W24D8F8CB2C6BE31A0D3EE1B8810@phx.gbl>

And, if the driver doesn't have a serious face?  ;)

Robert D



> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:21:47 -0800
> From: bspidell at comcast.net
>
> I have no data--crash test or otherwise--but I suspect given the
> location of the steering box (what, about a foot off the ground?) and
> the height of contemporary bumpers the steering box and column would be
> pushed down more than back in a head-on or rear-end collision.
>
> Of course, that probably means the driver would do a serious face plant
> on the steering wheel.
>
>
> bs

From autofarm at cyg.net  Tue Dec 22 08:47:00 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:47:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,,
	,<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>,,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl><BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342012E@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <147758A603DC4AAC91649E291C9A225C@OFFICE>

    I seem to remember something about golden horseshoes...................
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
To: <robertduquette at sympatico.ca>; "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "No, they don't make them like they used to. And 
that's a good thing:"


>I sure wouldn't worry about it. I T-boned a large pickup in 1971 with a

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Dec 22 09:04:09 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:04:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Car Safety
Message-ID: <EC5395E8787C4C27AA2EB2AB98F8E82D@cardinalhealth.net>

I have a delivery fleet that travels 57.6 million miles per year in 1300
vehicles.  Our current fleet is Pontiac Vibes and Ford Ranger trucks.  Both
are "5 star" rated for safety.  That 5 start rating is the best.  We usually
have a wreck every week, it is worse in winter.  Very few injuries in modern
cars.   I really don't think our old cars have much to compare other than they
have 4 wheels.

Jerry
What does a 5-Star Safety Rating mean?

The New Car Assessment Program (NCAP) rates vehicles to determine crash
worthiness and rollover safety. The safety ratings are gathered during
controlled crash and rollover tests conducted at NHTSA's research facilities.

Five stars indicate the highest safety rating and one star the lowest. While
the safety feature ratings may differ among vehicles, all automobiles must
first meet Federal standards. Get more information about NHTSA's 5-Star Safety
Ratings - Click HERE.
For all questions relating to NCAP crash testing, star ratings,
and vehicle safety, please email crash.test at dot.gov

From robertduquette at sympatico.ca  Tue Dec 22 09:32:09 2009
From: robertduquette at sympatico.ca (robertduquette at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:32:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Car Safety
In-Reply-To: <EC5395E8787C4C27AA2EB2AB98F8E82D@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <EC5395E8787C4C27AA2EB2AB98F8E82D@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W1246FE004BAB5BB6B05D4DB8810@phx.gbl>

>> Five stars indicate the highest safety rating and one star the lowest.


I like this rating system!!  Does this mean you can fail completely and you
still get a "star"? :)


Robert D

> From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net
>
> I have a delivery fleet that travels 57.6 million miles per year in 1300
> vehicles. Our current fleet is Pontiac Vibes and Ford Ranger trucks. Both
> are "5 star" rated for safety. That 5 start rating is the best. We usually
> have a wreck every week, it is worse in winter. Very few injuries in modern
> cars. I really don't think our old cars have much to compare other than
they
> have 4 wheels.
>
> Jerry
> What does a 5-Star Safety Rating mean?
>
> The New Car Assessment Program (NCAP) rates vehicles to determine crash
> worthiness and rollover safety. The safety ratings are gathered during
> controlled crash and rollover tests conducted at NHTSA's research
facilities.
>
> Five stars indicate the highest safety rating and one star the lowest.
While
> the safety feature ratings may differ among vehicles, all automobiles must
> first meet Federal standards. Get more information about NHTSA's 5-Star
Safety
> Ratings - Click HERE.
> For all questions relating to NCAP crash testing, star ratings,
> and vehicle safety, please email crash.test at dot.gov

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Tue Dec 22 10:25:33 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 11:25:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W24D8F8CB2C6BE31A0D3EE1B8810@phx.gbl>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,	, ,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>, ,
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>,
	<COL109-W24E2BDC6F4F84461B27071AD810@phx.gbl>
	<BAY112-W408FC0D3D4B45DA44723DBB8810@phx.gbl>,
	<4B30E40B.3070706@comcast.net>
	<BAY112-W24D8F8CB2C6BE31A0D3EE1B8810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B31010D.3050500@comcast.net>

<< And, if the driver doesn't have a serious face? >>

I didn't think ANY Healey Driver [Big or Small]
was allowed to have anything but a HUGE grin on
his/her face, R.D. ?!?!?

<VBG>

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 22 13:19:11 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 21:19:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Safety
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W1246FE004BAB5BB6B05D4DB8810@phx.gbl>
References: <EC5395E8787C4C27AA2EB2AB98F8E82D@cardinalhealth.net>
	<BAY112-W1246FE004BAB5BB6B05D4DB8810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B3129BF.6010306@chello.nl>

Yes. Avoid new cars with less than 4 stars.
Kees Oudesluijs

robertduquette at sympatico.ca schreef:
>>> Five stars indicate the highest safety rating and one star the lowest.
>>>       
>
>
> I like this rating system!!  Does this mean you can fail completely and you
> still get a "star"? :)
>
>
> Robert D
>
>   
>> From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net
>>
>> I have a delivery fleet that travels 57.6 million miles per year in 1300
>> vehicles. Our current fleet is Pontiac Vibes and Ford Ranger trucks. Both
>> are "5 star" rated for safety. That 5 start rating is the best. We usually
>> have a wreck every week, it is worse in winter. Very few injuries in modern
>> cars. I really don't think our old cars have much to compare other than
>>     
> they
>   
>> have 4 wheels.
>>
>> Jerry
>> What does a 5-Star Safety Rating mean?
>>
>> The New Car Assessment Program (NCAP) rates vehicles to determine crash
>> worthiness and rollover safety. The safety ratings are gathered during
>> controlled crash and rollover tests conducted at NHTSA's research
>>     
> facilities.
>   
>> Five stars indicate the highest safety rating and one star the lowest.
>>     
> While
>   
>> the safety feature ratings may differ among vehicles, all automobiles must
>> first meet Federal standards. Get more information about NHTSA's 5-Star
>>     
> Safety
>   
>> Ratings - Click HERE.
>> For all questions relating to NCAP crash testing, star ratings,
>> and vehicle safety, please email crash.test at dot.gov
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.717 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.117/2581 - datum van uitgifte: 12/22/09 09:09:00

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Dec 22 16:04:03 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 18:04:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Test - Please Delete
Message-ID: <137229b0912221504k53404ef3p8722cdefdd4d0ad@mail.gmail.com>

Test - Please Delete

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec 22 20:05:35 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 03:05:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?safety?=
Message-ID: <20091223030535.16742.qmail@server278.com>

for you folks that were around at the time, i can remember the 57 ford's big advertising push was for safety.  they had the deep dish steering wheel, double door locks, recessed knobs and guages, and other items i forget.  i believe it was kind of a bust, and car companies quit pushing safety as much.  it was only through government action that we got seat belts, padded dashes, etc.  correct me if i am wrong, but people generally did not want to pay extra for safety options and it took a while to come around.   hjim

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 20:58:06 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 22:58:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] safety
In-Reply-To: <20091223030535.16742.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091223030535.16742.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <005501ca8384$22aec040$680c40c0$@net>

I owned a 57 Ford in college and I remember that steering wheel. It did come
with a padded dash,  padded visors and seat belts as standard equipment --
no extra charge. I bought the car from a close friend who bought it new so
remember it when it came out of the showroom before I bought it 18 months
later. Still like the design of that car and it would really move.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 10:06 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] safety

for you folks that were around at the time, i can remember the 57 ford's big
advertising push was for safety.  they had the deep dish steering wheel,
double door locks, recessed knobs and guages, and other items i forget.  i
believe it was kind of a bust, and car companies quit pushing safety as
much.  it was only through government action that we got seat belts, padded
dashes, etc.  correct me if i am wrong, but people generally did not want to
pay extra for safety options and it took a while to come around.   hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Tue Dec 22 21:06:44 2009
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 23:06:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub seals
Message-ID: <C3795AEF07644CC6B07C461113E2A81A@655vb01>

Thanks to Alan Seigrist, Richard Mayor, and Roland Wihelmy for responding to
my problem. Got the old seal out with a new seal puller I bought and got the
new seals driven in.
Thanks again,
Elton

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 23 06:31:13 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:31:13 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And that's a good thing:"
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9F051CDC924B4527A23696F4097681AF@user8634b3d69b>

> An 80 MPH closing speed means both vehicles were travelling at 40 MPH. 
> <snip>
Noooo, an 80mph closing speed means one vehicle was doing 80, the other 0. 
There again, it could mean one was doing 55 and the other 135 if they were 
both travelling in the same direction.  It does not necessarily mean the 
closing speed should be equally divided between vehicles.

As far as injuries go, it is the rate of deceleration or degree of vehicle 
intrusion into your flesh that matters.  The slower the deceleration the 
better - but a slow deceleration accompanied by an intrusion of vehicle 
component into flesh ain't too good, usually it's more painful
We should be talking about the manner in which vehicles are built - not 
forces generated during impacts - although there is good correlation as most 
people tend to puncture or split around the same limits.

I would be interested in the source of crash testing done at 80mph for 
driver injury if any-one can help with a link.
If Chevy are claiming just a foot injury in a closing speed 80mph impact let 
their CEO sit in the drivers' seat to prove it, otherwise I'll accept they 
are liars.

Guy R Day



>>
>> While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer than 
>> their
>> 50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.
>>
>> With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new Chevy
>> would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the list that
>> could comment. I was under the impression that at that impact speed, even 
>> in
>> modern cars your chances of serious injury or death is very high.
>>
>> Dave
>> BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 23 07:15:07 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 15:15:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] "No,
 they don't make them like they used to. And  that's a good thing:"
In-Reply-To: <9F051CDC924B4527A23696F4097681AF@user8634b3d69b>
References: <20091221.150321.905.59458@mailpop06.dca.untd.com>,
	<8763751C7A7F41FD99B08E9423ADC8FE@lab092908>
	<BAY144-W7EBC691A0F44E4713F78FA5810@phx.gbl>
	<9F051CDC924B4527A23696F4097681AF@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <4B3225EB.2090701@chello.nl>

As it is likely that both cars are driven by the same loop on a crash 
test facility, both cars were travelling at 40mph in opposing 
directions. There are not to many crash test facilities around that can 
handle 80mph.
Anyway it does not matter what speed both cars are travelling as long as 
the difference is 80mph in opposing directions.
They way a car is built is not important, the forces generated during 
impact on the occupants (and pedestrians) are although one folows from 
the other.

The G-levels correlated with injuries all started with Colonel John P. 
Stapp way back in 1947 in the Mojave dessert.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Guy R Day schreef:
>> An 80 MPH closing speed means both vehicles were travelling at 40 
>> MPH. <snip>
> Noooo, an 80mph closing speed means one vehicle was doing 80, the 
> other 0. There again, it could mean one was doing 55 and the other 135 
> if they were both travelling in the same direction.  It does not 
> necessarily mean the closing speed should be equally divided between 
> vehicles.
>
> As far as injuries go, it is the rate of deceleration or degree of 
> vehicle intrusion into your flesh that matters.  The slower the 
> deceleration the better - but a slow deceleration accompanied by an 
> intrusion of vehicle component into flesh ain't too good, usually it's 
> more painful
> We should be talking about the manner in which vehicles are built - 
> not forces generated during impacts - although there is good 
> correlation as most people tend to puncture or split around the same 
> limits.
>
> I would be interested in the source of crash testing done at 80mph for 
> driver injury if any-one can help with a link.
> If Chevy are claiming just a foot injury in a closing speed 80mph 
> impact let their CEO sit in the drivers' seat to prove it, otherwise 
> I'll accept they are liars.
>
> Guy R Day
>
>
>
>>>
>>> While I completely believe that modern cars a significantly safer 
>>> than their
>>> 50's-60's counterparts, something doesn't seem right.
>>>
>>> With an 80 MPH impact speed, I am amazed that the driver of the new 
>>> Chevy
>>> would only sustain foot injuries. Are there any experts on the list 
>>> that
>>> could comment. I was under the impression that at that impact speed, 
>>> even in
>>> modern cars your chances of serious injury or death is very high.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.117/2582 - datum van uitgifte: 12/22/09 19:22:00

From vette at uplink.net  Wed Dec 23 10:21:21 2009
From: vette at uplink.net (Dave )
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 12:21:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7  Hardtop
Message-ID: <380-2200912323172121994@uplink.net>

If anyone knows of a Hardtop to fit my 1963, Healey 3000, BJ7,  please let me know.  Thanks. 

Dave C.
vette at uplink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Dec 23 10:30:25 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:30:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420139@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I think there was a tech tip not too long ago on making a new gasket to
prevent sloshing of the brake fluid out the cap breather hole.
Does someone remember that?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Dec 23 11:04:40 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 10:04:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Hardtop
In-Reply-To: <380-2200912323172121994@uplink.net>
References: <380-2200912323172121994@uplink.net>
Message-ID: <751d05480912231004i2acbb9e6x7319f39585411629@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,

Try Nical Engineering in the UK.  An original hardtop for BJ7/8 is very rare
and can run $5K and up if you can even find one.

http://www.nicalengineering.co.uk/

Cheers,

Curt



On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 9:21 AM, Dave <vette at uplink.net> wrote:

> If anyone knows of a Hardtop to fit my 1963, Healey 3000, BJ7,  please let
> me know.  Thanks.
>
> Dave C.
> vette at uplink.net
> EarthLink Revolves Around You.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Wed Dec 23 11:33:29 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:33:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420139@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <380891892FE34C11971A7F3B6FAE7CAB@your4dacd0ea75>

This was a post by Bob Haskell and a couple of comments a few months ago 
about using a gasket from the "Help" section of the auto parts stores-

"The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store.
Bob"

this link was also posted for info:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf

Our local Autozone had the gasket. It did require a slight trim around the 
edge to fit in the cap.
Dallas



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 12:30 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh


>I think there was a tech tip not too long ago on making a new gasket to
> prevent sloshing of the brake fluid out the cap breather hole.
> Does someone remember that?
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dcongleton at embarqmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.430 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2583 - Release Date: 12/23/09 
08:28:00

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 23 11:33:52 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 10:33:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420139@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420139@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <BCC1039E931B4633A878C2D0E9898886@LeonardPCPC>

Ken:  I think the thread you are referring to concerned a manufactured 
gasket.  Here are some responses that were provided:

"The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store."

"Also stocked at Pep Boys and Advance Auto Parts stores using the part 
number
42072. "

I purchased mine locally at Kragan under the "Help" brand.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 9:30 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh


>I think there was a tech tip not too long ago on making a new gasket to
> prevent sloshing of the brake fluid out the cap breather hole.
> Does someone remember that?
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Dec 23 11:38:20 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 10:38:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh
In-Reply-To: <380891892FE34C11971A7F3B6FAE7CAB@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D03420139@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<380891892FE34C11971A7F3B6FAE7CAB@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0342013E@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Great. That's it.
Thanks to all.
Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: Dallas Congleton [mailto:dcongleton at embarqmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:33 AM
To: Freese, Ken; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh

This was a post by Bob Haskell and a couple of comments a few months ago
about using a gasket from the "Help" section of the auto parts stores-

"The no splash 'gasket' that Moss sells (582-505) for the brake fluid
reservoir is Dorman Help! part number 42072 for various GM models
2004-1987.  Might be available at your local auto parts store.
Bob"

this link was also posted for info:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf

Our local Autozone had the gasket. It did require a slight trim around
the edge to fit in the cap.
Dallas



----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 12:30 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake reservoir slosh


>I think there was a tech tip not too long ago on making a new gasket to
> prevent sloshing of the brake fluid out the cap breather hole.
> Does someone remember that?
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dcongleton at embarqmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.430 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2583 - Release Date:
12/23/09
08:28:00

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 23 20:10:03 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 22:10:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
Message-ID: <4B32DB8B.9000705@earthlink.net>

Anyone familiar with this dash plaque? It is a 2-1/8" diameter 
Austin-Healey wood rimmed steering wheel.  The horn button has the flash 
and the spokes are slotted. 100M or Le Mans wheel?  Between the rim and 
the two upper spokes is: "SUPPLIED TO THE SPECIAL ORDER OF JOHN AND JEAN 
SMITH".  Across the bottom spoke is "Donald Healey WARWICK ENGLAND.

Bob

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Dec 23 22:11:30 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 05:11:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?wierd_electrical_problem?=
Message-ID: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>

drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed that my signal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today and discovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i tracked all the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights and park lights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash works, but the right signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear the signal flasher every click.  with the right signal on, there is no left signal at the same time, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher unit makes one click, then stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster rate than the left one.  the brake lights work fine when no headlights are on.   i ran out of time to investigate further, but wondered if any electrical genius out there had any idea of where to start.  new wiring harness, flasher relay unit on bulkhead and new lucas signal flasher during restoration.  hjim

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Wed Dec 23 23:43:07 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 07:43:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Blinkers
Message-ID: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>

Hello guys,
I've been asked by a guy in Canada, what were the cars with mobile 
blinkers (on the B post) in the late 50s, ealy 60's around there?
I know that, regarding european cars, the VW bug and Morris Minor could 
do, but what else, especially american cars?

Happy holiday season

Bernard

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec 23 23:43:58 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:43:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912232243s3279b9cdxfe32b7c5d3a1945e@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

It's a good practice to go through all the connections, pull them off and
reconnect them.  Pay particular attention to the 5 way connector to the rear
lights.  Also unscrew and rescrew the connections on the flasher relay, fuse
box and voltage regulator.  Also Unscrew / rescrew all the connections on
the back of all the light switches.  Also undo the battery terminals clean,
and reattach.

Since the car has sat for so long without use of the lighting system,
there's probably just some slight surface corrosion in one or two spots on
the wires/connectors that is causing the problem.  This is normal.

This is one of the reasons why I make it standard practice to drive my car
in all conditions all the time, it keeps them running properly.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 24, 2009 at 1:11 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed
> that my signal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today
> and discovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i
> tracked all the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights
> and park lights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash
> works, but the right signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear
> the signal flasher every click.  with the right signal on, there is no left
> signal at the same time, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher
> unit makes one click, then stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster
> rate than the left one.  the brake lights work fine when no headlights are
> on.   i ran out of time to investigate further, but wondered if any
> electrical genius out there had any idea of where to start.  new wiring
> harness, flasher relay unit on bulkhead and new lucas signal flasher during
> restoration.  hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 00:24:46 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:24:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Blinkers
In-Reply-To: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>
References: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912232324t788f083fw5fbf73d4def04e78@mail.gmail.com>

Bernard -

Perhaps it is lost in translation, do you mean trafficators / semaphores
like this one:

http://www.watchet.dolphins.btinternet.co.uk/trafficatorspare.jpg

<http://www.watchet.dolphins.btinternet.co.uk/trafficatorspare.jpg>??

If so these were put on all British Cars until around 1955 or so...

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 24, 2009 at 2:43 PM, Bernard Cristalli
<bcrist at club-internet.fr>wrote:

> Hello guys,
> I've been asked by a guy in Canada, what were the cars with mobile blinkers
> (on the B post) in the late 50s, ealy 60's around there?
> I know that, regarding european cars, the VW bug and Morris Minor could do,
> but what else, especially american cars?
>
> Happy holiday season
>
> Bernard

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Dec 24 00:27:22 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:27:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4B3317DA.9020008@chello.nl>

Most probably dirty/corroded electrical connectors and/or earthing. This
means cleaning all/most connectors and earthig points.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef:
> drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed that
my signal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today and
discovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i
tracked all the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights and
park lights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash works,
but the right signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear the
signal flasher every click.  with the right signal on, there is no left signal
at the same time, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher unit
makes one click, then stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster rate
than the left one.  the brake lights work fine when no headlights are on.   i
ran out of time to investigate further, but wondered if any electrical genius
out there had any idea of where to start.  new wiring harness, flasher relay
unit on bulkhead and new lucas signal flasher during restoration.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Thu Dec 24 01:38:54 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 00:38:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAIEJIECAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Jim,
What condition is the battery in? If you have a stock generator, those
things only put out 17 amps I think. If your generator was trying to charge
the battery while running all the lights, it may have been loosing the
fight. That might also explain the erratic turn signals too. Without enough
juice, the element in the flasher can't heat up properly and move as
designed.

Happy Holidays,
Greg

-----Original Message-----
drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed that
my signal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today and
discovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i
tracked all the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights
and park lights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash
works, but the right signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear
the signal flasher every click.  with the right signal on, there is no left
signal at the same time, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher
unit makes one click, then stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster
rate than the left one.  the brake lights work fine when no headlights are
on.   i ran out of time to investigate further, but wondered if any
electrical genius out there had any idea of where to start.  new wiring
harness, flasher relay unit on bulkhead and new lucas signal flasher during
restoration.  hjim

From bluehealey at googlemail.com  Thu Dec 24 03:51:09 2009
From: bluehealey at googlemail.com (AlanB)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:51:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <B6D176E66E5E44D5859F939399378D4A@Dell>

Hi Jim.
These are typical symptoms arising from poor earth connections. The symptoms
demonstrate that the flasher unit is good as are all the circuits.  The key
places to revisit are the black wire earthing tags to ground.

Merry Christmas
 _____________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
      (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______)
          (_________________________)


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: 24 December 2009 05:12
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem

drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed that
my signal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today and
discovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i
tracked all the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights
and park lights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash
works, but the right signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear
the signal flasher every click.  with the right signal on, there is no left
signal at the same time, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher
unit makes one click, then stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster
rate than the left one.  the brake lights work fine when no headlights are
on.   i ran out of time to investigate further, but wondered if any
electrical genius out there had any idea of where to start.  new wiring
harness, flasher relay unit on bulkhead and new lucas signal flasher during
restoration.  hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bluehealey at googlemail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Dec 24 05:46:56 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 04:46:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny (early) - Engine sounds
Message-ID: <5C98FBA8E7D1432DA6B72FD540E6CA50@TRACY>

Thanks to DENNIS THE COASTER ORTENBURGER for the following

Racer Bud



http://funnyvideos.todaysbigthing.com/2009/12/22?utm_source=newsletter
<http://funnyvideos.todaysbigthing.com/2009/12/22?utm_source=newsletter&utm_
medium=email&utm_campaign=daily> &utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=daily





Warm Regards,



Tracy Drummond



PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 24 07:02:24 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:02:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
In-Reply-To: <4B32DB8B.9000705@earthlink.net>
References: <4B32DB8B.9000705@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001601ca84a1$b862bc40$292834c0$@rr.com>

Bob, see the attached letter from Geoff Healey about the dash plaque.

Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque

Anyone familiar with this dash plaque? It is a 2-1/8" diameter 
Austin-Healey wood rimmed steering wheel.  The horn button has the flash 
and the spokes are slotted. 100M or Le Mans wheel?  Between the rim and 
the two upper spokes is: "SUPPLIED TO THE SPECIAL ORDER OF JOHN AND JEAN 
SMITH".  Across the bottom spoke is "Donald Healey WARWICK ENGLAND.

Bob
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of G  Healey ltr .pdf]

From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Dec 24 07:16:25 2009
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:16:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091224051130.26478.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <8CC52BACF5244B8-3D30-2EBC8@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>

If not the battery, ground, connections, etc. mentioned in earlier posts, I
would suggest replacing the flasher unit to see if this is the source of your
turn signal mysteries. Several people in  our club have been having troubles
with the quality of the flasher units recently. Also, confirm that you have
the signal lights are wired correctly. I.E. The bright & dim elements have not
been reversed. It is easy to get them reversed & if the running light is
bright it will be difficult to see the brake light.
Gary






-----Original Message-----
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2009 9:11 pm
Subject: [Healeys] wierd electrical problem


drove the bn6 in the dark for the first time in over a year and noticed that
my
ignal lights were inop with the headlights on.  investigated today and
iscovered that the brake lights do not work with lights on, either.  i tracked
ll the wiring and everything is by the book.  when the headlights and park
ights are off, the left signal is slow, the pilot light on dash works, but the
ight signal comes on very weak at the same time.  i can hear the signal
flasher
very click.  with the right signal on, there is no left signal at the same
ime, but the pilot light only flashes once, the flasher unit makes one click,
hen stops, and the right signal flashes at a faster rate than the left one.
he brake lights work fine when no headlights are on.   i ran out of time to
nvestigate further, but wondered if any electrical genius out there had any
dea of where to start.  new wiring harness, flasher relay unit on bulkhead and
ew lucas signal flasher during restoration.  hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
You are subscribed as warthodson at aol.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 24 07:40:59 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 09:40:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
In-Reply-To: <001601ca84a1$b862bc40$292834c0$@rr.com>
References: <4B32DB8B.9000705@earthlink.net>
	<001601ca84a1$b862bc40$292834c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B337D7B.9020804@earthlink.net>

Steve,

Thanks for the letter.  As an additional twist, this plaque was mounted 
to the glove box door from an MGB.

Bob

BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> Bob, see the attached letter from Geoff Healey about the dash plaque.
> 
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 24 09:06:06 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:06:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
In-Reply-To: <4B337D7B.9020804@earthlink.net>
References: <4B32DB8B.9000705@earthlink.net>
	<001601ca84a1$b862bc40$292834c0$@rr.com>
	<4B337D7B.9020804@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002201ca84b2$ffd51440$ff7f3cc0$@rr.com>

Too bad the plaque has come adrift from the car it originally belonged to,
Bob.  As it was intended to be, I think the plaque is a very special thing
to have on a Healey.  I only have a record of two BJ8s and one BJ7 (as noted
in the letter) with the plaque.

Cheers!
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 9:41 AM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque

Steve,

Thanks for the letter.  As an additional twist, this plaque was mounted 
to the glove box door from an MGB.

Bob

From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 09:34:33 2009
From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:34:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] SEASON'S GREETINGS
Message-ID: <9baa446a0912240834v5d4fb48cw74637c5b8d41616a@mail.gmail.com>

BEST WISHES FOR THE HOLIDAYS AND MAY ALL YOUR HEALEY DREAMS BE REALIZED IN
2010.
Cheers,

-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Dec 24 09:35:40 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:35:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Blinkers
In-Reply-To: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>
References: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <COL109-W1544F907719F0D4168E4EBAD7F0@phx.gbl>

You could obtain the "attached on the side of the steering column turn
signals" as an extra in the beginning of the 50's.

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 07:43:07 +0100
> From: bcrist at club-internet.fr
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; e-type at jag-lovers.org; xk at jag-lovers.org
> Subject: [Healeys] Blinkers
>
> Hello guys,
> I've been asked by a guy in Canada, what were the cars with mobile
> blinkers (on the B post) in the late 50s, ealy 60's around there?
> I know that, regarding european cars, the VW bug and Morris Minor could
> do, but what else, especially american cars?
>
> Happy holiday season
>
> Bernard

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Thu Dec 24 09:40:42 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 17:40:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Blinkers
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912232324t788f083fw5fbf73d4def04e78@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4B330D7B.7060903@club-internet.fr>
	<ff59076c0912232324t788f083fw5fbf73d4def04e78@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B33998A.3010908@club-internet.fr>

Indeed yes.
B

Alan Seigrist a icrit :
> Bernard -
>
> Perhaps it is lost in translation, do you mean trafficators / 
> semaphores like this one:
>
> http://www.watchet.dolphins.btinternet.co.uk/trafficatorspare.jpg
>
> ??
>
> If so these were put on all British Cars until around 1955 or so...
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2009 at 2:43 PM, Bernard Cristalli 
> <bcrist at club-internet.fr <mailto:bcrist at club-internet.fr>> wrote:
>
>     Hello guys,
>     I've been asked by a guy in Canada, what were the cars with mobile
>     blinkers (on the B post) in the late 50s, ealy 60's around there?
>     I know that, regarding european cars, the VW bug and Morris Minor
>     could do, but what else, especially american cars?
>
>     Happy holiday season
>
>     Bernard

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Dec 24 09:40:05 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:40:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SEASON'S GREETINGS
Message-ID: <20091224.084016.22017.62270@mailpop11.dca.untd.com>

Jerry,

To you also and the rest of the list. May the Holiday season and the New
Year bring us a renewed  brighter outlook for the future.

Doug

> BEST WISHES FOR THE HOLIDAYS AND MAY ALL YOUR HEALEY DREAMS BE 
> REALIZED IN
> 2010.
> Cheers,
> 
> -- 
> jerry wall  BN6
> rowlett, tx
____________________________________________________________
Nutrition
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Dec 24 09:41:29 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:41:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
Message-ID: <20091224.084214.7689.63073@mailpop09.dca.untd.com>

Wouldn't it be a nice Holiday gift if it was, in fact, re united as it
was intended to be.

Doug
 
> Too bad the plaque has come adrift from the car it originally 
> belonged to,
> Bob.  As it was intended to be, I think the plaque is a very special 
> thing
> to have on a Healey.  I only have a record of two BJ8s and one BJ7 
> (as noted
> in the letter) with the plaque.
> 
> Cheers!
> Steve
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] 
> Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 9:41 AM
> To: BJ8 Healeys
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey dash plaque
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Thanks for the letter.  As an additional twist, this plaque was 
> mounted 
> to the glove box door from an MGB.
> 
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Weight Loss Program
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=IjWIVceYOh5OH4n4rCDuFgAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA=

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 10:45:48 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:45:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays
Message-ID: <BLU144-W34E2395C51D187CAED1B1DB7F0@phx.gbl>

I hope all the good members of this group and their families have a safe and
very Happy Holiday Season !!!!!!

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
Fountain Hills, AZ

People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the
newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Thu Dec 24 11:03:25 2009
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 13:03:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays
In-Reply-To: <BLU144-W34E2395C51D187CAED1B1DB7F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU144-W34E2395C51D187CAED1B1DB7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B8ED90DD-2C1E-499F-9F2C-F82802242C0B@cgocable.ca>

Yes, Joyeux Noel ` vous tous and we wish for a nice healey under the
tree for those who don't have allready one or 2 or 3 ......

Gilbert & Line


http://www.austinhealeyquebec.com/

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of inconnu.jpg]
Le 09-12-24 ` 12:45, Dan a icrit :

> I hope all the good members of this group and their families have a
> safe and
> very Happy Holiday Season !!!!!!
>
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> Fountain Hills, AZ
>
> People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the
> newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as comkanuk at cgocable.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Dec 24 11:03:30 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 13:03:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
References: <BLU144-W34E2395C51D187CAED1B1DB7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D006EE4C1343416A9311B73C81DC8142@LIFEBOOK>

Wishing all on this list a very safe and Merry Christmas and the best of the 
Holiday season. Hope Santa brings us all something special for our Healeys!

Sitting here in Mount Hope, Ontario with lots of salt residue on the roads 
but no snow, all is bare, dry and cold with 25 degrees F.

Rich Chrysler 

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Dec 24 11:17:10 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 13:17:10 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healey dash plaque
Message-ID: <bc6.5ca61586.38650a26@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/24/09 8:35:46 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Steve,
>
> Thanks for the letter.  As an additional twist, this plaque was mounted
> to the glove box door from an MGB.
>
> Bob
>

SInce it doesn't specifically say "This Austin-Healey supplied..." if this
is a relatively early MGB, it could have been sold by Donald Healey at his
BMC retail dealership in Warwick.
Gary

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 24 12:14:13 2009
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (rudedoggg at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:14:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
Message-ID: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Bare?  Cold?  dry?  25F?  I wish I was in Ontario!

Best wishes to all,

John (from Omaha)


-----Original Message-----
>From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
>Sent: Dec 24, 2009 1:03 PM
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
>
>Wishing all on this list a very safe and Merry Christmas and the best of the 
>Holiday season. Hope Santa brings us all something special for our Healeys!
>
>Sitting here in Mount Hope, Ontario with lots of salt residue on the roads 
>but no snow, all is bare, dry and cold with 25 degrees F.
>
>Rich Chrysler 
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as rudedoggg at earthlink.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 24 12:45:13 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:45:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>

Merry Christmas and Happy Healeydays to all my Healey friends, from balmy
and sunny Havelock, NC - 48 deg. F (8.889 C, 282 K, 507.7 R, 7.111 Reaumur
[?]).  

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rudedoggg at earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 2:14 PM
To: Rich C; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas

Bare?  Cold?  dry?  25F?  I wish I was in Ontario!

Best wishes to all,

John (from Omaha)

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Dec 24 12:46:35 2009
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:46:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Christmas
Message-ID: <4B33C51B.3090903@summaventures.com>

and a great 2010 to all listers.

Peter Dzwig
-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Dec 24 13:11:39 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:11:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>,
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>

And a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all you Healy guys from
Florida where it is presently 75% (sorry to rub it in)!

Bill

BJ7
> From: sbyers at ec.rr.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:45:13 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
>
> Merry Christmas and Happy Healeydays to all my Healey friends, from balmy
> and sunny Havelock, NC - 48 deg. F (8.889 C, 282 K, 507.7 R, 7.111 Reaumur
> [?]).
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 13:29:00 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 12:29:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>,
	, <004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>,
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL121-W17696607250661A067FB9FA47F0@phx.gbl>

Yes, happy holidays to all and may the next year find all the parts you need
on SALE at Moss.
Rich Kahn

> From: insptwo at msn.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:11:39 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
>
> And a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all you Healy guys from
> Florida where it is presently 75% (sorry to rub it in)!
>
> Bill
>
> BJ7
> > From: sbyers at ec.rr.com
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:45:13 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
> >
> > Merry Christmas and Happy Healeydays to all my Healey friends, from balmy
> > and sunny Havelock, NC - 48 deg. F (8.889 C, 282 K, 507.7 R, 7.111
Reaumur
> > [?]).
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Dec 24 13:44:27 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:44:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Seasons Greetings
Message-ID: <002f01ca84d9$e2a38f60$a7eaae20$@net>

And from our family to yours, have a great holiday season and prosperous New
Year. May all of our repairs, upgrades and maintenance go without a hitch
this year with Murphy's law repealed. Rather wishful thinking but it is
something to strive for. Drive them often. I know I will this year
(finally). Thanks to the many contributors to my site!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 24 13:54:25 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:54:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey dash plaque
In-Reply-To: <bc6.5ca61586.38650a26@aol.com>
References: <bc6.5ca61586.38650a26@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005b01ca84db$473b3fd0$d5b1bf70$@rr.com>

Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by the
Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?

While it's true that nowhere in Geoff's letter does it mention Austin-Healey
or any other marque, a literal reading of the text suggests that he is
talking about Austin-Healeys only -- especially the use of the words
"factory" and "The Cape".  But that is just how I've been reading it.

"The plaque is one of those fitted to cars supplied by the factory at
Warwick.  This is not unique, but was our way of indicating that we had
supplied the car and it added a personal touch to the car.  
We supplied lots of cars to members of the U.S. forces but relatively few
were specially-prepared at The Cape and yours [HBJ7L/22219 - S. Byers] would
have been one of the last."

It would be interesting to know what "specially-prepared" entailed.  Geoff
was not exactly correct about the BJ7 being one of the last unless the
plaque was really a rare item.  One of the BJ8s that got this plaque was
HBJ8L/38734 manufactured 25 - 28 October 1966.  The strange thing about this
car was that it was not dispatched from the factory to Compton, CA until 19
February 1968.  Along with HBJ8U/42758G, it was the last car shipped from
the factory to the USA.  While it's interesting to speculate why the car
hung around Abingdon between October 1966 and January 1968, the BMIHT record
states "the build record indicates that this car was altered by the factory
between the 1 - 25 January 1968."

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 1:17 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey dash plaque

In a message dated 12/24/09 8:35:46 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


SInce it doesn't specifically say "This Austin-Healey supplied..." if this
is a relatively early MGB, it could have been sold by Donald Healey at his
BMC retail dealership in Warwick.
Gary

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Thu Dec 24 14:33:35 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 13:33:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIWAxPahBmpJumJvu8AH4zXCgAAAEAAAADV2tOhVh5JChREIBoPzoFkBAAAAAA==@cox.net>

Same back to you from CAVU 68 deg. Laguna Hills, CA!
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
97 DB7

Merry Christmas and Happy Healeydays to all my Healey friends, from balmy
and sunny Havelock, NC - 48 deg. F (8.889 C, 282 K, 507.7 R, 7.111 Reaumur
[?]).  

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Dec 24 15:43:10 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 17:43:10 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Safety Measures
Message-ID: <bd4.5a078713.3865487e@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/23/09 10:46:35 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> for you folks that were around at the time, i can remember the 57 ford's
> big advertising push was for safety.  they had the deep dish steering
> wheel, double door locks, recessed knobs and guages, and other items i
forget. 
> i believe it was kind of a bust, and car companies quit pushing safety as
> much.  it was only through government action that we got seat belts, padded
> dashes, etc.  correct me if i am wrong, but people generally did not want
> to pay extra for safety options and it took a while to come around.   hjim
>

I interviewed (and was subsequently hired) for a position in Ford Product
Planning in 1969. As late as that, one of the standard questions in the
interview was, "If you were a product planner in 1956, planning the 1957 cars
and
had to decide whether to install seat belts or not, what questions would
you want to get answers to?"
The correct answer was: "How much will they cost per car, and are customers
willing to pay that additional price to have seat belts, or give up
something of equal cost to get them included."
In other words, absent government controls, customers get exactly what
they're willing to pay for.
Turned out, in study after study at Ford, given a choice between seat
belts, and say, a nice set of hub caps, customers would choose the cosmetic
enhancement 2-1 every time.
So, it isn't just the auto companies that had to be forced. The reason we
have all this stuff on our cars, and the vehicle mortality rate is
significantly decreased from past years, is that the government decided, for
our own
good, to make the companies build the safety, and efficiency, and longevity,
and emissions controls into the cars.
And, frankly, we're all better for it. The cars are better, they last
longer, they get better mileage, and they are quantum amounts safer.

And with that, a Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night.
Gary

From 57healey at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 16:05:08 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 17:05:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0912241505x1021d0a5l9b68381493500e63@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, it's 28 degrees and snowing in Dallas.  I hope everyone has a
Merry Christmas.
Patton
-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Dec 24 17:04:04 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>,
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>

> And a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all you Healy guys from
> Florida where it is presently 75% (sorry to rub it in)!
> 
> Bill
> 
> BJ7

Ummm, 75% what, Bill? <grin> And what's a Healy?

Just teasing....
Rich

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 17:21:18 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 08:21:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
	<B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912241621s58a78bf6q43118ab9436263c3@mail.gmail.com>

Merry Christmas to all from Shanghai (Visiting my mom!).  No Healeys
here but there are a few Geelys.  I'll stick with the Healey!  ;). 54
deg F here.....

On 12/25/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
>> And a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all you Healy guys from
>> Florida where it is presently 75% (sorry to rub it in)!
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> BJ7
>
> Ummm, 75% what, Bill? <grin> And what's a Healy?
>
> Just teasing....
> Rich
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From sales at justbrits.com  Thu Dec 24 18:25:57 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:25:57 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] [pridgets] Santa
In-Reply-To: <DD20226E-DA78-4BE3-A018-9EC6C7D7E671@ado13.com>
References: <DD20226E-DA78-4BE3-A018-9EC6C7D7E671@ado13.com>
Message-ID: <4B3414A5.9080207@justbrits.com>

 From the Spridgets List:

<quote>
On the way back from Monterey this morning I
passed a couple dressed as Santa Claus and Ms Claus.
They were driving a red Austin Healey 3000.
</quote>

Anybody ????

Ed

PS:  And to ALL, please have a VERY Merry Christmas !!

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Dec 24 18:29:58 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 01:29:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?update_on_wierd?=
Message-ID: <20091225012958.5381.qmail@server278.com>

spent about 3 hours today cleaning all the grounds, checking contilnuity and voltage to the signal light.  nothing has changed.  did discover that right signal was flashing when wire was disconnected. careful examination revealed it was the park light that was flashing on the right with left signal on.  how can this be?  will start to track it down tomorrow.  tried replacing lucas flasher with the old buss flasher that came off the bj8, but that more screwed up.  the pilot light was on all the time and no signal.  checked it a couple of times for correct wiring, then put the lucas back on.  will order a new flasher, but do not think that is it.   anybody got any new leads, let me know.  hjim

From sales at justbrits.com  Thu Dec 24 18:40:31 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:40:31 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Hardtop
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912231004i2acbb9e6x7319f39585411629@mail.gmail.com>
References: <380-2200912323172121994@uplink.net>
	<751d05480912231004i2acbb9e6x7319f39585411629@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B34180F.4070007@justbrits.com>

<< ...BJ7/8 is very rare and can run $5K and up if you can even
find one. >>

GOSPEL, Curt !!!!!

Merry Christmas to all !!!

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates  AH BJ 7  )

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Thu Dec 24 19:01:04 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 12:01:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0912241505x1021d0a5l9b68381493500e63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0912241505x1021d0a5l9b68381493500e63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AA4AD2813DBB47F0BACD001DD144ACEC@PeterPC>

....and from Oz, where it's midday Christmas day (in Brizzy at least) sunny 
and 28 deg C heading for 30!

Cheers

Peter Linn 

From bowering at sympatico.ca  Thu Dec 24 19:10:41 2009
From: bowering at sympatico.ca (Ken & Sue Bowering)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 21:10:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [pridgets] Santa
In-Reply-To: <4B3414A5.9080207@justbrits.com>
References: <DD20226E-DA78-4BE3-A018-9EC6C7D7E671@ado13.com>
	<4B3414A5.9080207@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP322CF6E1AD0FBD9E48B88DBC7E0@phx.gbl>

Sorry to disappoint you but it wasn't the "Big Guy". While his sleigh may be
red, it's still a sleigh and not an Austin Healey - as much as he might wish
it were. And, and that time of the day (say around 11 AM PST), he wouldn't
have been in Monterey but would have been somewhere in Australia - heading
west and then north. Rumours here in Ottawa is that NORAD is already
tracking him.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sales at " Just Brits "
Sent: December-24-09 8:26 PM
To: 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [pridgets] Santa

 From the Spridgets List:

<quote>
On the way back from Monterey this morning I passed a couple dressed as
Santa Claus and Ms Claus.
They were driving a red Austin Healey 3000.
</quote>

Anybody ????

Ed

PS:  And to ALL, please have a VERY Merry Christmas !!
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bowering at sympatico.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 24 19:16:51 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:16:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091224181529.02060ee0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Boiling water. But if it is a newer plate that is coated with the 
same material as the sticker then it will soften the plate finish. 
Painted plate; no issue.

Sorry for the late reply and am behind on my reading.

John

At 02:55 PM 12/19/2009 -0800, Richard Kahn wrote:
>Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates? I've
>been told hot water but nothing happens.
>Rich Kahn

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 24 19:30:31 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:30:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
In-Reply-To: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
References: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20091224182729.02054040@pop.att.yahoo.com>

You don't want copper because it can work harden through vibration 
and crack. I have been told there is a European product that looks 
like copper and may be an alloy that is suitable but I don't recall what it is.

Sorry I am behind on reading emails.

John

At 06:54 PM 12/19/2009 -0500, Charley Braum wrote:
>     I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I
>would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec.

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 19:32:47 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:32:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] license plate stickers
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20091224181529.02060ee0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <COL121-W64B6F85601956694385AE6A4840@phx.gbl>,
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091224181529.02060ee0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-W17A441BCE559A8FCCCA53DA47E0@phx.gbl>

Thanks all, I got it off with the heat gun.  In pieces, but no worries.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:16:51 -0800
> To: tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] license plate stickers
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>
> Boiling water. But if it is a newer plate that is coated with the
> same material as the sticker then it will soften the plate finish.
> Painted plate; no issue.
>
> Sorry for the late reply and am behind on my reading.
>
> John
>
> At 02:55 PM 12/19/2009 -0800, Richard Kahn wrote:
> >Anybody have any idea how to remove the yearly stickers on the plates?
I've
> >been told hot water but nothing happens.
> >Rich Kahn
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 19:35:04 2009
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:35:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] How to Repair Your Foreign Car
Message-ID: <COL121-W271BA04CDC7E5A30C5A2E5A47E0@phx.gbl>

I got my Xmas present early. My Wife got me the O'Kane book at amazon for 28
bucks! They are out there, guys.
Rich Kahn

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Dec 24 19:35:14 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 02:35:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?merry_christmas?=
Message-ID: <20091225023514.24267.qmail@server278.com>

i really enjoy being home for christmas, even if it is just the old hammer and me.  seems i spent most of my christmas holidays gone from home in the military or with united airlines.  now i just kick back, eat and enjoy this great life that we have.  hope everyone on the list enjoys their christmas with their loved ones.  healeymanjim

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 19:58:44 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:58:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] merry christmas
In-Reply-To: <20091225023514.24267.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091225023514.24267.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <751d05480912241858u23e279bdy6c54bc76b885ae37@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

Still an active pilot for AA and I'm off on a trip tomorrow at 5:30 AM to
Honolulu.  After 13 years active duty with the Marines, 8 years of corporate
flying and now 11 years with the airlines it will be many years before I get
to spend holidays with the family.  I guess it could be worse and I'd have
Detroit layover.

Merry Christmas to everyone.

Curt

On Thu, Dec 24, 2009 at 6:35 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> i really enjoy being home for christmas, even if it is just the old hammer
> and me.  seems i spent most of my christmas holidays gone from home in the
> military or with united airlines.  now i just kick back, eat and enjoy this
> great life that we have.  hope everyone on the list enjoys their christmas
> with their loved ones.  healeymanjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Dec 24 19:58:46 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 02:58:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] update on wierd
In-Reply-To: <20091225012958.5381.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091225012958.5381.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W28C45717EF9AFA56A930D1A57E0@phx.gbl>

Jim,
Sounds like the ground wire has an open. The power from the turn signal relay
is going to the bright, high resistance, element in the bulb and from there to
the base, which is normally connected to the ground. Instead the power
back-feeds through the low resistance element and grounds through the side
lamp circuit. There isn't enough flow to light the bright element, but the dim
element will glow. The light will go out when the side circuit is turned on
because there will be no voltage differential. Repair the ground wire. The
problem could be anywhere on the ground wire or with the connection within the
lamp boot itself.
Good luck.
Bill lawrence

> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 01:29:58 +0000
> Subject: [Healeys] update on wierd
>
> spent about 3 hours today cleaning all the grounds, checking contilnuity and
voltage to the signal light.  nothing has changed.  did discover that right
signal was flashing when wire was disconnected. careful examination revealed
it was the park light that was flashing on the right with left signal on.  how
can this be?  will start to track it down tomorrow.  tried replacing lucas
flasher with the old buss flasher that came off the bj8, but that more screwed
up.  the pilot light was on all the time and no signal.  checked it a couple
of times for correct wiring, then put the lucas back on.  will order a new
flasher, but do not think that is it.   anybody got any new leads, let me
know.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Dec 24 20:23:23 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 22:23:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Greetings
Message-ID: <8CC5328BF98237D-16F0-8155@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com>

Over here in the mid Pacific its "Mele Kalikimaka"  that you hear this
time of year.  I send it out to all of you. All the best.
Aloha
Perry

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Dec 24 21:11:03 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 23:11:03 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Anniversary. Merry christmas/Happy  Channukah,
 and more
Message-ID: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com>

This year Mary and I (both) got a special present--after living in a rental 
 house since we sold our last home almost three years  ago and looking at 
lots of houses we didn't like we finally  found one that we really like and 
closed on it on Tuesday.
 
It meets both of our needs--about 3+ acres in a wooded semi-rural  
neighborhood which is what we wanted, plenty of room for our dog and Mary's  garden 
and bees and there is room to build a free-standing  garage that will 
comfortably accommodate 3 cars(our two Healeys and my  Elva) plus my 20' car 
trailer and a two post lift. What else could a boy  want!  Today is our 
anniversary and we took dinner up and ate our first  meal there--candlelight, roses 
and everything!
 
We have agreed that at least for this and the coming year all gifts  
(birthdays, anniversary, Xmas/Channukah, etc. will be "house related".   Mary is 
figuring out how to redo the kitchen and right now I am drawing up  plans for 
the garage--the lift is of course something we both need  since I look 
after all the cars, so that will be one of those gifts....
 
Best to all for a great holiday season--Michael  Oritt 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec 25 00:45:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 08:45:55 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] update on wierd
In-Reply-To: <20091225012958.5381.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20091225012958.5381.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4B346DB3.1080407@chello.nl>

This must be a ground issue probably of the base or ground wire of the 
rear lights.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef:
> spent about 3 hours today cleaning all the grounds, checking contilnuity and voltage to the signal light.  nothing has changed.  did discover that right signal was flashing when wire was disconnected. careful examination revealed it was the park light that was flashing on the right with left signal on.  how can this be?  will start to track it down tomorrow.  tried replacing lucas flasher with the old buss flasher that came off the bj8, but that more screwed up.  the pilot light was on all the time and no signal.  checked it a couple of times for correct wiring, then put the lucas back on.  will order a new flasher, but do not think that is it.   anybody got any new leads, let me know.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec 25 01:00:06 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 09:00:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Anniversary. Merry christmas/Happy   Channukah,
 and more
In-Reply-To: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com>
References: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B347106.2090702@chello.nl>

Michael,
Build the garage at least twice as big as you planned to do and high 
enough to accomodate the lift comfortly. Provide for plenty of space for 
spare parts.
Make provisions for future expansion. Make sure there is heating (and/or 
airco if you want it very luxurious), hot & cold water, dishwasher, 
fridge and oven (all 3 for maintainance jobs of course) and computer 
with printer.
Do not forget to built a large garden shed filled with wonderfull SS 
garden tools first to prepare the Missus.
Have a happy 2010.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
> This year Mary and I (both) got a special present--after living in a rental 
>  house since we sold our last home almost three years  ago and looking at 
> lots of houses we didn't like we finally  found one that we really like and 
> closed on it on Tuesday.
>  
> It meets both of our needs--about 3+ acres in a wooded semi-rural  
> neighborhood which is what we wanted, plenty of room for our dog and Mary's  garden 
> and bees and there is room to build a free-standing  garage that will 
> comfortably accommodate 3 cars(our two Healeys and my  Elva) plus my 20' car 
> trailer and a two post lift. What else could a boy  want!  Today is our 
> anniversary and we took dinner up and ate our first  meal there--candlelight, roses 
> and everything!
>  
> We have agreed that at least for this and the coming year all gifts  
> (birthdays, anniversary, Xmas/Channukah, etc. will be "house related".   Mary is 
> figuring out how to redo the kitchen and right now I am drawing up  plans for 
> the garage--the lift is of course something we both need  since I look 
> after all the cars, so that will be one of those gifts....
>  
> Best to all for a great holiday season--Michael  Oritt 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 01:39:49 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 16:39:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Anniversary. Merry christmas/Happy  Channukah,
 and  more
In-Reply-To: <4B347106.2090702@chello.nl>
References: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com> <4B347106.2090702@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912250039i2ea0f06ax7c3f42d1cfde8c71@mail.gmail.com>

Kees -

With all that hardware no toilet????  :\

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 4:00 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Michael,
> Build the garage at least twice as big as you planned to do and high enough
> to accomodate the lift comfortly. Provide for plenty of space for spare
> parts.
> Make provisions for future expansion. Make sure there is heating (and/or
> airco if you want it very luxurious), hot & cold water, dishwasher, fridge
> and oven (all 3 for maintainance jobs of course) and computer with printer.
> Do not forget to built a large garden shed filled with wonderfull SS garden
> tools first to prepare the Missus.
> Have a happy 2010.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
>
>  This year Mary and I (both) got a special present--after living in a
>> rental  house since we sold our last home almost three years  ago and
>> looking at lots of houses we didn't like we finally  found one that we
>> really like and closed on it on Tuesday.
>>  It meets both of our needs--about 3+ acres in a wooded semi-rural
>>  neighborhood which is what we wanted, plenty of room for our dog and Mary's
>>  garden and bees and there is room to build a free-standing  garage that
>> will comfortably accommodate 3 cars(our two Healeys and my  Elva) plus my
>> 20' car trailer and a two post lift. What else could a boy  want!  Today is
>> our anniversary and we took dinner up and ate our first  meal
>> there--candlelight, roses and everything!
>>  We have agreed that at least for this and the coming year all gifts
>>  (birthdays, anniversary, Xmas/Channukah, etc. will be "house related".
>> Mary is figuring out how to redo the kitchen and right now I am drawing up
>>  plans for the garage--the lift is of course something we both need  since I
>> look after all the cars, so that will be one of those gifts....
>>  Best to all for a great holiday season--Michael  Oritt
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From randerson33 at triad.rr.com  Fri Dec 25 02:00:25 2009
From: randerson33 at triad.rr.com (randerson33 at triad.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 9:00:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year
Message-ID: <20091225090025.TYM1C.444313.root@cdptpa-web09-z01>

To each of you, a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Jerry Anderson
BN4 Longbridge
NC

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Dec 25 02:36:48 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 10:36:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Anniversary. Merry christmas/Happy  Channukah,
 and 	more
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912250039i2ea0f06ax7c3f42d1cfde8c71@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com> <4B347106.2090702@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0912250039i2ea0f06ax7c3f42d1cfde8c71@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B3487B0.4090104@chello.nl>

Alan,
One uses the tree around the back.
Slalnte,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Kees -
>
> With all that hardware no toilet????  :\
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 4:00 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     Michael,
>     Build the garage at least twice as big as you planned to do and
>     high enough to accomodate the lift comfortly. Provide for plenty
>     of space for spare parts.
>     Make provisions for future expansion. Make sure there is heating
>     (and/or airco if you want it very luxurious), hot & cold water,
>     dishwasher, fridge and oven (all 3 for maintainance jobs of
>     course) and computer with printer.
>     Do not forget to built a large garden shed filled with wonderfull
>     SS garden tools first to prepare the Missus.
>     Have a happy 2010.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>
>     Awgertoo at aol.com <mailto:Awgertoo at aol.com> schreef:
>
>         This year Mary and I (both) got a special present--after
>         living in a rental  house since we sold our last home almost
>         three years  ago and looking at lots of houses we didn't like
>         we finally  found one that we really like and closed on it on
>         Tuesday.
>          It meets both of our needs--about 3+ acres in a wooded
>         semi-rural  neighborhood which is what we wanted, plenty of
>         room for our dog and Mary's  garden and bees and there is room
>         to build a free-standing  garage that will comfortably
>         accommodate 3 cars(our two Healeys and my  Elva) plus my 20'
>         car trailer and a two post lift. What else could a boy  want!
>          Today is our anniversary and we took dinner up and ate our
>         first  meal there--candlelight, roses and everything!
>          We have agreed that at least for this and the coming year all
>         gifts  (birthdays, anniversary, Xmas/Channukah, etc. will be
>         "house related".   Mary is figuring out how to redo the
>         kitchen and right now I am drawing up  plans for the
>         garage--the lift is of course something we both need  since I
>         look after all the cars, so that will be one of those gifts....
>          Best to all for a great holiday season--Michael  Oritt
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>     <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
>
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.119/2585 - datum van uitgifte: 12/24/09 09:11:00

From grday at btinternet.com  Fri Dec 25 04:32:49 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 11:32:49 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
References: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091224182729.02054040@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <27D264DDEBDB4081B68E0B761C396037@user8634b3d69b>

Google      Kunifer10
Sometimes misspelt as    Cunifer 10

'Pure Copper' pipe does workharden and become susceptible to cracking over 
time and should not be in a brake line.


Guy R Day


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 2:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe


> You don't want copper because it can work harden through vibration and 
> crack. I have been told there is a European product that looks like copper 
> and may be an alloy that is suitable but I don't recall what it is.
>
> Sorry I am behind on reading emails.
>
> John
>
> At 06:54 PM 12/19/2009 -0500, Charley Braum wrote:
>>     I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I
>>would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec.
> _______________________________________________

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 05:17:51 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 04:17:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chritmas Friday Funny
Message-ID: <751d05480912250417r4ad8028aka442526c3afd3a2e@mail.gmail.com>

 Hi Listers,

As I leave for work on a chilly (it's 31 degrees F) SoCal Christmas morning,
and wishing I did not have to be working today, I'll leave you all with
this...
Cheers,

Curt
*
When you have an 'I Hate My Job day'*

[Even if you're retired, you sometimes have those days]

Try this out:

Stop at your pharmacy and go to the thermometer section and purchase a
rectal thermometer made by Johnson & Johnson.

Be very sure you get this brand.

When you get home, lock your doors,draw the curtains and disconnect the
phone so you will not be disturbed.

Change into very comfortable clothing and sit in your favorite chair. Open
the package and remove the thermometer.  Now, carefully place it on a table
or a surface so that it will not become chipped or broken.

Now the fun part begins.

Take out the literature from the box and read it carefully.  You will notice
that in small print there is a statement:

*"Every Rectal Thermometer made by Johnson & Johnson is personally tested
and then sanitized."*

Now, close your eyes and repeat out loud five times,' I am so glad I do not
work in the thermometer quality control department at Johnson & Johnson.'

HAVE A NICE DAY; AND REMEMBER, THERE IS ALWAYS SOMEONE ELSE WITH A JOB THAT
IS MORE OF A PAIN IN THE ASS THAN YOURS!

....Remember, if you haven't got a smile on your face and laughter in your
heart...Then you are just an old sour fart;

Maybe you should go and work for Johnson and Johnson

Enjoy life now - It has an expiration date!

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Dec 25 05:24:59 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 07:24:59 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
Message-ID: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by 
> the
> Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
> market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
> Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?
> 

No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter 
Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the 
UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As 
well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we opened 
a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much 
pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally 
persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal Austin 
outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian took 
over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very 
beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company had an 
Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on, 
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their 
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a 
BMC franchise. 
Gary

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 06:12:01 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 05:12:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
In-Reply-To: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
References: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912250512r3384e485i87712d57dc6ce487@mail.gmail.com>

correct.

On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 4:24 AM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
> >
> > Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by
> > the
> > Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
> > market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
> > Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?
> >
>
> No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter
> Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
> Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the
> UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As
> well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we
> opened
> a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much
> pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally
> persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal
> Austin
> outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian
> took
> over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
> The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very
> beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company
> had an
> Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
> I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on,
> of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their
> retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
> I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a
> BMC franchise.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 06:14:24 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 05:14:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] seasons of peace to all
Message-ID: <173126440912250514j5c3e26cau980161798dfddab5@mail.gmail.com>

As I sit in the Holy Land, in the city of Jerusalem, I wish all a year of
peace, health and safe driving. This is such an amazing land.
Shalom to you all.

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 25 06:54:36 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 08:54:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
References: <52EFF87237624077AF704B6B23EDB445@universal1>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20091224182729.02054040@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000a01ca8569$cbd49f50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

If memory serves me the pipes the pipes made by Automec
are nickle- copper.   Not pure copper.  Pliable but durable.  I was  very 
satisfied.
But I think they are only in a kit form,  sorry.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe


> You don't want copper because it can work harden through vibration and 
> crack. I have been told there is a European product that looks like copper 
> and may be an alloy that is suitable but I don't recall what it is.
>
> Sorry I am behind on reading emails.
>
> John
>
> At 06:54 PM 12/19/2009 -0500, Charley Braum wrote:
>>     I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I
>>would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Dec 25 07:31:08 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 08:31:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Anniversary. Merry christmas/Happy   Channukah,
 and 	more
In-Reply-To: <4B3487B0.4090104@chello.nl>
References: <c99.5db5108f.38659557@aol.com>
	<4B347106.2090702@chello.nl><ff59076c0912250039i2ea0f06ax7c3f42d1cfde8c71@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B3487B0.4090104@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CFFF530BAB4145B881240049458DE18D@GregPC>

Merry Christmas to all, thanks for putting up with a former Healey owner who 
still lingers and occassionaly "contributes" with technical knowledge and 
experience that pales in comparison to many on the list.  I don't talk about 
it here because it is not on topic, but am restoring a Triumph TR250 now, 
which does share a very few parts with a late 3000 (brakes and some ignition 
I think), and both the car and more importantly life in general are going 
well.

I still find this list to be by far my favorite internet location for 
British car stuff, or anything else for that matter, I am vey impressed with 
the speed of response and level of technical knowledge here, and I enjpy the 
various personalities that come through in the posts as well.

Regards, Greg Lemon 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Dec 25 09:39:22 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 16:39:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Brake Pipe
In-Reply-To: <000a01ca8569$cbd49f50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <20065205.2822851261759162499.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I was able to get clutch and reservoir-to-mastercyl pipes, which don't come in the kits, directly from Automec (IIRC). 

http://www.automec.co.uk 

bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

If memory serves me the pipes the pipes made by Automec 
are nickle- copper. Not pure copper. Pliable but durable. I was very 
satisfied. 
But I think they are only in a kit form, sorry. 

Mark 



> You don't want copper because it can work harden through vibration and 
> crack. I have been told there is a European product that looks like copper 
> and may be an alloy that is suitable but I don't recall what it is. 
> 
> Sorry I am behind on reading emails. 
> 
> John 
> 
> At 06:54 PM 12/19/2009 -0500, Charley Braum wrote: 
>> I need one of the pipes that connect the two front wheel cylinders. I 
>>would really like to get one in copper, as those sold by Automec. 

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 25 12:05:33 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 11:05:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
In-Reply-To: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <677776.62937.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Pg 147  of "The Healey Story" by Geoff states, ".. and Warwick still held a
BMC franchise to sell Austin and MG vehicles." 

It would be really cool for one of the clubs to reproduce these plaques as a
fund raiser.  Just a thought while hungrily awaiting the Christmas roast
beast.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Fri, 12/25/09, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

From: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, December 25, 2009, 7:24 AM

, Donald Healey Motor Company had an
Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on,
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a
BMC franchise.
Gary
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 25 12:06:09 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 11:06:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
Message-ID: <349296.98691.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

In an advertisement by the Donald Healey Motor Co. Ltd. in Autosport, August
17, 1962, page 242, mention is made of the Speed Equipment Division at 64
Grosvenor Street, London.B  So it was not just in the b52-b53 period but
much later that the DHMCo had a presence beyond Warwick. B Mention is also
made that: bA card to Warwick will place you on our mailing list for the
monthly copy of Headlines from Healey.bB  A scanned copy of the ad is
attached.B 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, B Murphy Lives

--- On Fri, 12/25/09, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:


From: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Friday, December 25, 2009, 7:24 AM


In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:B B > Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement
enjoyed byB the Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive
rights to market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to
Austin-Healeys. Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not? >

No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter
Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the
UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As
well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we opened
a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much
pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally
persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal Austin
outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian
took
over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very
beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company had
an Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on,
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a
BMC franchise.
Gary
__________________________________________________________________
Make your
browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet ExplorerB. 8.
Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at
http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of DHM]

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Fri Dec 25 13:56:18 2009
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 15:56:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Power supplies-non Healey
In-Reply-To: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
References: <20091213170000.9L8AT.171238.imail@eastrmwml46>
Message-ID: <64A4E52611A04C92986DAEDCC475A8E9@robsLTPC>

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT.
            Raining here in southern Ontario, Canada. and about 1 deg C

                       Bob & Jean Slater      1963   BJ7 

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Dec 25 16:35:07 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 23:35:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?more_wierd?=
Message-ID: <20091225233507.16674.qmail@server278.com>

success comes to those who perservere.  knew i had big trouble this morning when i saw the license plate light blinking in unison with the taillights and the signal lights.  disconnected all wires and scraped all grounds again.  swapped bulbs when i noticed an unusual bulb in right rear taillight.  finally got the license and taillight to stop blinking with signal, but then had no signal lights or brake lights.  played around with grounds, connections and bulbs on the front. still no joy, so decided to check continuity of trafficator.  all wires were good and had good continuity both directions.  put whole thing together and wired it back up and noticed that i was getting signal lights.  checked to see if they would work with headlights on.  SUCCESS.  still do not know exactly what i did to cure the problem, but now have all lights working.  thanks for the help.   hjim

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Dec 25 18:29:39 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 20:29:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>,
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>,
	<B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <COL109-W44518B21A9B6B23354B72DAD7D0@phx.gbl>

 Wellllllllll, Rich, been having a lost day when I wrote that. You would think
that being the  classified ads mgr for the "Marque" I should how to spell
"Healey". Oh well, old age is creeping up on my mind! On the bright side, one
of my presents from my loving wife (who is a tool fanatic and receives all the
"specialized" tol cataloguescause they are addressed to her) gave me a
complete drill bit index with all cobalt bits. Now if I can just find where I
put my all my drills!

We are now preparing to leave for Atlanta, where the weather is a tad colder
to see how our youngest is progressing with the restoration of 2nd '67 Shelby
GT 500 Mustang Cobra.

Bill

BJ7
> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> To: insptwo at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
> Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 19:04:04 -0500
>
>
>
>
> > And a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all you Healy guys from
> > Florida where it is presently 75% (sorry to rub it in)!
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > BJ7
>
> Ummm, 75% what, Bill? <grin> And what's a Healy?
>
> Just teasing....
> Rich

From dwflagg at juno.com  Fri Dec 25 18:33:20 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 20:33:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Switch knobs
Message-ID: <20091225.173324.8544.64190@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>

Is there anyone out there who restores lettered switch knobs? TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Diet Help
Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=hIDWFvvbo5naGsz4sQ_xTgAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 25 19:31:24 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 18:31:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Greetings
Message-ID: <108215.58745.qm@web111408.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

This list is a gift all year long.  Hope you all have a wonderful Holiday of
your choice and a Happy and Healey filled New Year.
God Bless Majordomo.
Ray Juncal

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Dec 25 20:13:22 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 03:13:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Switch knobs
In-Reply-To: <20091225.173324.8544.64190@mailpop08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <897847422.2897661261797202406.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

We've been doing our own. Clean the lettering out carefully with a not-too-sharp instrument--e.g. a dull pick--then apply white (or red, etc.) enamel paint into the letters with a fine brush. Let the paint soak in for a few seconds, then wipe the excess off the knob with a 'sharp' plastic body filler scraper. When the paint's mostly dry clean up any smearing with a thin cotton cloth with a little thinner (don't use something like a microfiber or terrycloth towel--the fibers will dig into the paint in the letters and remove it). You can dye and buff the knob beforehand if you want a shiny, polished look; we prefer the patina of a lightly buffed (only) knob. Paint, brushes, etc. are available at any hobby shop. 

I know this doesn't answer your question but this is something you can do yourself and get good results, and it's not difficult. Takes about 5 minutes per knob, if you don't dye. 

bs 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Is there anyone out there who restores lettered switch knobs? TIA. 

Doug 

From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 25 20:32:53 2009
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 22:32:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] autotraderclassics.com
Message-ID: <BAY124-W45BED70E5FD2301F58CF25D47D0@phx.gbl>

Anyone view the 100-6 58' for $16,000 on autotraderclassics.com?  Look where
the lift pads are mounted in the underneath photo.  WOW!  Think it might now
have an exhaust issue?

The Millers
"British Car Nuts"

1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299

1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219

1964 MGB 40841

1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From sales at justbrits.com  Fri Dec 25 20:55:04 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 21:55:04 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Greetings
In-Reply-To: <108215.58745.qm@web111408.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <108215.58745.qm@web111408.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B358918.5040305@justbrits.com>

NOT picking on the author:

<quote>
Majordomo
</quote>

but THAT is one of those words that the Authors
of the FREE program Mark [MJB] has switched to
HATES because it refers to a different software
package.  The same applies to "listsrv".  Both of which
ARE Trademarked.

Just FYI & FWIW [I am on the 'users tech mail group
List' for MailMan which IS what Mark has changed too
and see it all the time <G>].

I sincerely hope you all had a wonderful & Merry
Christmas !!

Ed

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Fri Dec 25 21:26:37 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 22:26:37 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] autotraderclassics.com
In-Reply-To: <BAY124-W45BED70E5FD2301F58CF25D47D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY124-W45BED70E5FD2301F58CF25D47D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B35907D.405@comcast.net>

<< Anyone view the 100-6 58' for $16,000 on autotraderclassics.com?
Look where the lift pads are mounted in the underneath photo. WOW!
Think it might now have an exhaust issue? >>

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/find/vehicle/vehicleDetail.xhtml?adId=206681&actionMethod=find%2Fvehicle%2FvehicleSearchResults.xhtml%3AuShipController.init&conversationId=208451

Nah, Shawn !!!!  LOL!!!!

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Dec 25 22:00:52 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 00:00:52 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
Message-ID: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>

I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the 
smart guys here:

The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would 
like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main floor--the 
dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light 
storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable 
weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be.  

Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses  
would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the concrete 
 floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would 
they  need to be? 

I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span 
27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Dec 25 23:19:11 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 17:19:11 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
In-Reply-To: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
References: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1274ADCC42AB499C8B719D236DE50822@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Gary

My best wishes for a safe and joyous festive season to everyone.

Back in 1975 Alan Jones and I visited the Donald Healey Motor Company that
was then located in the converted cinema in Warwick and my memory tells me
that it was a BMC agency.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Friday, 25 December 2009 11:25 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business

In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by 
> the
> Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
> market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
> Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?
> 

No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter 
Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the 
UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As 
well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we
opened 
a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much 
pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally 
persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal
Austin 
outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian
took 
over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very 
beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company had
an 
Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on, 
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their 
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a 
BMC franchise. 
Gary

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Fri Dec 25 23:43:19 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 22:43:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Intermeccanica Italia
Message-ID: <E31984AA589E4A7FAE141B172ECB187D@PaulPC>

Somebody on the list mentioned that he had a neighbor who had a black on red
Intermeccanica Italia roadster.

 

For the life of me, I can't find that email and would like to make
contact..can you perhaps resend me your contact information "off-list".

 

Thanks

Paul

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 01:04:57 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 00:04:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Greetings
In-Reply-To: <4B358918.5040305@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <728855.80556.qm@web111405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

   
    In my small non-tech mind I meant Mark, who has been our "majordomo" as
opposed to the program of that same name.  I hope I haven't offended anyone.
Ray Juncal

--- On Fri, 12/25/09, Sales at " Just Brits " <sales at justbrits.com> wrote:

From: Sales at " Just Brits " <sales at justbrits.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Greetings
To: "List Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 25, 2009, 7:55 PM

NOT picking on the author:

<quote>
Majordomo
</quote>

but THAT is one of those words that the Authors
of the FREE program Mark [MJB] has switched to
HATES because it refers to a different software
package.  The same applies to "listsrv".  Both of which
ARE Trademarked.

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Sat Dec 26 02:41:33 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 09:41:33 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
In-Reply-To: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
References: <c10.721f95ad.3866091b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca860f$9c901480$d5b03d80$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

I went to the old cinema show room in Warwick years ago. Actually +/- 38 yrs
ago. It was still open, but barely functioning. No cars and I think it was
in the final throes of clearing out and closing up. I had my first BT7 MkII
then and went upstairs to the Parts dept on spec. It was virtually cleared
out. I asked them what they had left for my car and they had a Parts book, a
red armrest with white piping and one of the heater controls, the slider
knob I think. I bought these or they gave them to me.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: 25 December 2009 12:25
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business

In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by 
> the
> Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
> market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
> Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?
> 

No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter 
Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the 
UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As 
well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we
opened 
a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much 
pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally 
persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal
Austin 
outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian
took 
over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very 
beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company had
an 
Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on, 
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their 
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a 
BMC franchise. 
Gary
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Dec 26 04:29:18 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 12:29:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
References: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B35F38E.9090809@chello.nl>

You will need some decent floor joists for such a large span. I would 
suggest pine joists not less than 3" x 11" at  20" spacing or less. This 
will be a safe and stable floor. Forget the idea of light storage, that 
will not happen in the end, believe me. Use 3/4" underlayment ply for 
the deck, cheap and strong.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
> I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the 
> smart guys here:
>
> The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would 
> like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main floor--the 
> dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light 
> storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable 
> weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be.  
>
> Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses  
> would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the concrete 
>  floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would 
> they  need to be? 
>
> I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span 
> 27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Dec 26 05:10:40 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 13:10:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
References: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B35FD40.6030008@chello.nl>

Sorry, I screwed up with the inches. The joists to be used in my opinion 
are min. 3" x 9" ( not 3"x 11") spaced at max. 20".
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Awgertoo at aol.com schreef:
> I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the 
> smart guys here:
>
> The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would 
> like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main floor--the 
> dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light 
> storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable 
> weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be.  
>
> Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses  
> would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the concrete 
>  floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would 
> they  need to be? 
>
> I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span 
> 27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 06:42:11 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 14:42:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
References: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250912260542t4a6fe7e6uc8e5579e0ec0f19b@mail.gmail.com>

........ and don't forget 2 steel verticals plus one steel H-beam
horizontally to lift the engine and gearbox!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands

2009/12/26 <Awgertoo at aol.com>

> I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the
> smart guys here:
>
> The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would
> like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main
> floor--the
> dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light
> storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable
> weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be.
>
> Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses
> would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the
> concrete
>  floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would
> they  need to be?
>
> I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span
> 27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 26 08:05:42 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:05:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
References: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
	<4e23c7250912260542t4a6fe7e6uc8e5579e0ec0f19b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801ca863c$e4f7df50$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

How bout "box trusses" up top with 3x8 at the bottom that will give you 
plenty of strength overhead
and then with a bit of 3/4 flooring for the attic floor and a walk up stair 
on the back wall .   Instant
storage space for tranys, extra Healey parts  and of course some of your 
wifes stuff.

It pays to think a head.

Have fun,   Mark

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Dec 26 08:38:20 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:38:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge Parts Needed
Message-ID: <AE70088E917B4099A5B07FB30B736A25@LIFEBOOK>

Hello all,

Hope everybody is wading successfully through the holiday season. Here's
something to take your mind off the overindulgence of this time of year.....

I am presently working on a very early Longbridge built 100/Six, in fact she's
Body 326, built 25 October, 1956. This is a complete ground up restoration of
the highest order possible and an tring to get everything exactly right. I am
needing a few pieces that are not commercially available. Therefore I'm
turning to this terrific list for help. (how's that for groveling?)

I need to find a workable pair of exterior door handles, the early flat pull
series with the lock on the left one. Left handle with lock would be part
number 14B 7486

I also need an original design single tube tail pipe. I was lucky to find an
original Burgess 2 in / 1 out muffler, so this would be the pipe that goes
with it. This would be part number 11B 2126, used up until car 48862. I know I
can probably get one custom bent, etc. but if there's an original lying about
out there, that needs to go to "the right car", I need to at least ask.

I also am looking for the earliest series of engine hood (bonnet) that has a
plain skin that actually precedes the commonly seen raised pressing style.
It's also different than the later plain bonnets in that it wouldn't yet have
the inner strengthening brace that was applied later. It would be easy to spot
because it would be a plain surface, yet have the bonnet prop rod mounting on
the left side (carburetor side) of the car.

I need the mounting bracket for the glass windscreen washer jar, part number
17H 581.

Last, I need to find the early Trafalgar windscreen washer pump, part number
17H 577.

I realize and understand that these pieces are literally collectors items, but
I have to ask...

Regards,

Rich Chrysler

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 08:41:28 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:41:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W44518B21A9B6B23354B72DAD7D0@phx.gbl>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
	<B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
	<COL109-W44518B21A9B6B23354B72DAD7D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0912260741k34e7e4ebid1a4d16d7b6b83ca@mail.gmail.com>

A belated Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!    Here's a
picture of our English bulldog all dressed up for the holidays:
http://tfwilliams.info/Gretchen_AH_XMAS2009.jpg

btw -- anyone else get caught in Comcast's Christmas Day Massacre?
They stopped service to all the cable modems they deemed obsolete on
Christmas Day. No internet, no phone service, no way to replace the
modem...  Aiyiyi...   Thankfully, there's a nice coffee shop here in
New London with internet access.

- Tom

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Sat Dec 26 08:48:59 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 08:48:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Project Car
Message-ID: <2972F73500DA403BB7C8B368EED22F2D@jackniolfz37if>

For any listers interested in a 100-4 restoration project, I have one
presently on Ebay.  This is a fairly solid 55 BN-1 with clear title and BMIHT
Certificate.  Engine and Trans not in the listing but are available from
seller.  Have a look and buy yourself a New Years project.  Item # is
150400161002.  Contact me off list for other details.
Jack

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 09:14:40 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 08:14:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0912260741k34e7e4ebid1a4d16d7b6b83ca@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <980309.26894.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Now THAT'S an anti-theft device!

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 10:41 AM

A belated Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!    Here's a
picture of our English bulldog all dressed up for the holidays:
http://tfwilliams.info/Gretchen_AH_XMAS2009.jpg

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 09:16:50 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 08:16:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
In-Reply-To: <000001ca860f$9c901480$d5b03d80$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <985342.26876.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Weren't they selling FIATs from the cinema showroom after the finished with BL?

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business
To: Editorgary at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 4:41 AM

I went to the old cinema show room in Warwick years ago. Actually +/- 38 yrs
ago. It was still open, but barely functioning. No cars and I think it was
in the final throes of clearing out and closing up. I had my first BT7 MkII
then and went upstairs to the Parts dept on spec. It was virtually cleared
out. I asked them what they had left for my car and they had a Parts book, a
red armrest with white piping and one of the heater controls, the slider
knob I think. I bought these or they gave them to me.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: 25 December 2009 12:25
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business

In a message dated 12/24/09 5:48:51 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Gary, my understanding has been that the special arrangement enjoyed by 
> the
> Donald Healey Motor Company with BMC (that gave DMH exclusive rights to
> market the cars to U.S. forces in the UK) applied only to Austin-Healeys.
> Do you (or anyone else) know if that is so or not?
> 

No exhaustive research here, but five minutes with Donald Healey/Peter 
Garnier My World of Cars found this (p. 109):
Part of the Austin deal was that we should have the sale conscession in the 
UK for Austin-Healey cars, that we alone should sell the first batch. As 
well as the small showroom-cum-drawing office we built at The Cape, we
opened 
a showroom at the Austin servce Centre in West London. There was so much 
pressure from the big Austin distributors, however, that Austin finally 
persuaded us to allow the Austin-Healey to go out through their normal
Austin 
outlets, in return for which they gave us an Austin franchise. My son Brian
took 
over the retail side." (emphasis mine)
The period he's referring to, of course, is 1952-1954. So from the very 
beginning of the Austin-Healey relationship, Donald Healey Motor Company had
an 
Austin franchise, which would very soon have become a BMC franchise.
I didn't search other books, but I know I can find a picture from later on, 
of the converted movie theatre in Warwick which DHMCo acquired as their 
retail showroom when they expanded beyond The Cape.
I'm sure other people on this list can confirm that the Healey family had a 
BMC franchise. 
Gary
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 09:24:17 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 08:24:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Intermeccanica Italia
In-Reply-To: <E31984AA589E4A7FAE141B172ECB187D@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <269305.91039.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here you go: 
http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/2009-10/msg00842.html  I've
always admired the Italia and about 10 yrs ago saw a decrepit one languishing
outside a gas station near Boston.  I had hopes of picking it up cheap, but
alas, the owner knew exactly what he had.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 12/26/09, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:

From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
Subject: [Healeys] Intermeccanica Italia
To: "'healey'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 1:43 AM

Somebody on the list mentioned that he had a neighbor who had a black on red
Intermeccanica Italia roadster.



For the life of me, I can't find that email and would like to make
contact..can you perhaps resend me your contact information "off-list".



Thanks

Paul
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Sat Dec 26 10:17:21 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 12:17:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] body panel fit
Message-ID: <3CA27067647B4F18B9AD80EC04F744DF@AtkinsonPC>

Need some advice.

Have my chassis rolling with all brake lines and electrical done, dash
installed and gas tank in.

 

Question 1:

Has anyone had any experience test fitting body panels while adding weight
to simulate the engine/trans in place? How much weight did you add?

 

Question 2:

What's the best way to strip 2 coats of paint off the panels? Should this be
done after all repairs so you can immediately prime and paint after? 

 

Question 3:

Anyone know of a good shop within 100miles of Connecticut that would rebuild
the engine and transmission/OD together? Any experience on price paid over
the past 12months for a 2600cc 6cyl?

 

Thanks,

 

Simon

From wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sat Dec 26 10:44:01 2009
From: wilkmanracing at aol.com (wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 12:44:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] body panel fit
In-Reply-To: <3CA27067647B4F18B9AD80EC04F744DF@AtkinsonPC>
References: <3CA27067647B4F18B9AD80EC04F744DF@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <8CC546A24A79DD6-40DC-10AD7@webmail-m051.sysops.aol.com>

I would suggest you do all the body work and have the panels primed with an
epoxy primer.  Then install the drive train.  With that in place you will have
the exact weight and distribution you need. There is no need to test fit
panels before everything else is in place.  On the steel panels, I'd suggest
you have them dipped by one of the professional stripping places.  It will
remove all rust, bondo, and paint in one shot.  Then when you get the panels
back, have a body shop prime them with an epoxy primer. These paints are
extremely toxic, so they are not for a home brew job, unless you have a fresh
air system and and some sort of enclosed space with good ventilation.  The
body shop could also do any straightening before applying the epoxy primer.  I
believe aluminum will melt in the stripping solution, so those will have to be
stripped by hand.  You can use aircraft paint stripper or do as I did, use a
3M Bristle Disk in a grinder.  It's a plastic brush-like tool that strips the
paint, but spares the aluminum.

Bill Wilkman
BT7


-----Original Message-----
From: Simon & Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2009 12:17 pm
Subject: [Healeys] body panel fit


Need some advice.
Have my chassis rolling with all brake lines and electrical done, dash
nstalled and gas tank in.

Question 1:
Has anyone had any experience test fitting body panels while adding weight
o simulate the engine/trans in place? How much weight did you add?

Question 2:
What's the best way to strip 2 coats of paint off the panels? Should this be
one after all repairs so you can immediately prime and paint after?

Question 3:
Anyone know of a good shop within 100miles of Connecticut that would rebuild
he engine and transmission/OD together? Any experience on price paid over
he past 12months for a 2600cc 6cyl?

Thanks,

Simon
Healeys at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
You are subscribed as wilkmanracing at aol.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Dec 26 10:57:30 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 12:57:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  body panel fit
Message-ID: <E4912F1A97F842208667142402880805@LIFEBOOK>

> Hello Simon,
>
> Please see answers below interspersed with your questions...........
>
>> Need some advice.
>>
>> Have my chassis rolling with all brake lines and electrical done, dash
>> installed and gas tank in.
>
>> Question 1:
>> Has anyone had any experience test fitting body panels while adding 
>> weight
>> to simulate the engine/trans in place? How much weight did you add?
> If  (I repeat "IF") your chassis structure is in good condition you 
> shouldn't have to preload things. It should only flex an amount measurable 
> in thousandths of an inch
>
> Question 2:
> What's the best way to strip 2 coats of paint off the panels? Should this 
> be
>> done after all repairs so you can immediately prime and paint after?
> You can do this yourself by hand but it's a lot of time consuming labour. 
> We always have the panels dip stripped and immediately sprayed with a self 
> etching prmer if we can't get to the repairing portion of the work right 
> away. All the repairs are done thereafter. However, all these panel 
> repairs should have been done before any of the chassis assembly work 
> began. You may well have to get into chassis repair work to get all the 
> body panels to fit properly.

Rich Chrysler 

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Sat Dec 26 12:17:54 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 20:17:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge Parts Needed
In-Reply-To: <AE70088E917B4099A5B07FB30B736A25@LIFEBOOK>
References: <AE70088E917B4099A5B07FB30B736A25@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D88771@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

Hello Rich,
It does not help you, but I have seen one of these very early bonnets fitted
to a BJ8. The car was on desplay on our Club Stand at the NEC Classic Motor
Show in Birmingham this year. It was the first time I saw such a bonnet and
thought it was an aftermarket part done wrong. It had the bonnet prop rod
mounting on the left side (carburetor side) of the car  and the bracket on the
shroud was fitted to work with this bonnet. The bonnet was without the inner
strengthening brace. The car was given for display by a (private) restorer who
did some work on the car. The owner is from Spain. If you are interested, I
will check if I did pictures which shows the bonnet. But the engine bay was
not realy impressive. So I may not did any. But can check, if you like.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Rich C
Gesendet: Samstag, 26. Dezember 2009 16:38
An: Healeys
Betreff: [Healeys] Longbridge Parts Needed

Hello all,

Hope everybody is wading successfully through the holiday season. Here's
something to take your mind off the overindulgence of this time of year.....

I am presently working on a very early Longbridge built 100/Six, in fact she's
Body 326, built 25 October, 1956. This is a complete ground up restoration of
the highest order possible and an tring to get everything exactly right. I am
needing a few pieces that are not commercially available. Therefore I'm
turning to this terrific list for help. (how's that for groveling?)

I need to find a workable pair of exterior door handles, the early flat pull
series with the lock on the left one. Left handle with lock would be part
number 14B 7486

I also need an original design single tube tail pipe. I was lucky to find an
original Burgess 2 in / 1 out muffler, so this would be the pipe that goes
with it. This would be part number 11B 2126, used up until car 48862. I know I
can probably get one custom bent, etc. but if there's an original lying about
out there, that needs to go to "the right car", I need to at least ask.

I also am looking for the earliest series of engine hood (bonnet) that has a
plain skin that actually precedes the commonly seen raised pressing style.
It's also different than the later plain bonnets in that it wouldn't yet have
the inner strengthening brace that was applied later. It would be easy to spot
because it would be a plain surface, yet have the bonnet prop rod mounting on
the left side (carburetor side) of the car.

I need the mounting bracket for the glass windscreen washer jar, part number
17H 581.

Last, I need to find the early Trafalgar windscreen washer pump, part number
17H 577.

I realize and understand that these pieces are literally collectors items, but
I have to ask...

Regards,

Rich Chrysler
_____________

From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 13:15:12 2009
From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 12:15:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
Message-ID: <504007.10162.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Michael, one other useful feature, make the ceiling at least 12 ft so the lift
can be used to its fullest.

Max
1961 BT7
--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:


From: Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 12:00 AM


I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the
smart guys here:

The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would
like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main floor--the
dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light
storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable
weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be. 

Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses 
would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the
concrete
floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would
they  need to be?

I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span
27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as maxandreb1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From spyderweb at uwalumni.com  Sat Dec 26 13:22:28 2009
From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (Jim Hill)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 14:22:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Searching For an Old Friend
Message-ID: <3afbecf40912261222r201acbf4s85d2451a352692b6@mail.gmail.com>

I know this inquiry is a long shot and is of interest only to me, but if
you'll forgive me...

My very first car was a 1958 Austin Healey 4-seater, purchased in 1959 in
Southern California, which I owned for four years.

While I had the car, a number of modifications were made, including a
repaint from Healey Blue and white coves to red with white coves, the
installation of a racing cam and a roll bar, a substantial increase in
compression ratio and other performance modifications for SCCA racing. It
was raced at Pomona and Riverside for two years (which it survived without
incident) and then retired to street use.

The car was sold to a fellow named Gurwitz, a classmate of mine at UC
Riverside and I lost track of the car -- but I've wondered from time to
time if its still around.

The only other bit of information I have on the car is the California
license plate it carried when I sold it:
     PSM 099

If by some chance this car still exists, I'd very much like to hear about
it.

Thanks,

Jim Hill
spyderweb at uwalumni.com

From dan at warner-associates.com  Sat Dec 26 14:30:06 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 15:30:06 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <504007.10162.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DCADE8A0853D4834823B99A70C6B5A8F@DANSTROM>

Be sure to specify 8 foot doors and not the standard 7 foot (about the same
cost)
Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Maurice Maxwell
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 2:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Awgertoo at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Garage Design

Michael, one other useful feature, make the ceiling at least 12 ft so the
lift
can be used to its fullest.

Max
1961 BT7
--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:


From: Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 12:00 AM


I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the
smart guys here:

The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would
like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main
floor--the
dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light
storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable
weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be. 

Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses 
would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the
concrete
floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would
they  need to be?

I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span
27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as maxandreb1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Dec 26 14:48:21 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:48:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
Message-ID: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>

Anyone tried this on a Healey?

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en

Lin

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 15:06:28 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 14:06:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
References: <bee.579019e5.3866f284@aol.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912261406y2e21a6c1ne3a311d98b8dcc32@mail.gmail.com>

It would be in your county code books. They will list not only the size of
the joists, but the distance between joists for both laminated and
dimensional lumber. You might consider steel joists. You will need fewer of
them and they will be stronger. Plus you can hang an engine hoist from one
of them.

Ira.

BTW, will return to the Kotel to accomplish your request. Hope it speeds you
recovery :)

On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 9:00 PM, <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:

> I am doing preliminary design of a garage and have a question for  the
> smart guys here:
>
> The building will be of frame construction and will  be 25' wide. I would
> like to put a loft with a plywood deck over a portion of  the main
> floor--the
> dimensions of the loft being 25' square. The loft would be  used for light
> storage with weight being exclusively on the sides and no  appreciable
> weight in the center. I could tolerate some floor bounce if need be.
>
> Here's the question: What size floor joists or fabricated wood trusses
> would I need to adequately support the loft without any columns to the
> concrete
>  floor below--in other words using a free span--and on what centers would
> they  need to be?
>
> I have read from one site that 16" floor trusses on 24"  centers will span
> 27-1/2'. Any input  appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Dec 26 15:37:24 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 17:37:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
Message-ID: <005e01ca867b$ff5b18a0$fe1149e0$@net>

Someone on the list has and gave me that link. I forget who has done it on
his car but it has been done.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Linwood H Rose
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 4:48 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering

Anyone tried this on a Healey?

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en

Lin
_______________________________________________

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 15:42:29 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 14:42:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
Message-ID: <547060.37432.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Not everyone speaks Dutch !
English translation>>> http://tiny.cc/powersteering

also Flaming River units for hot rods in the USA:

>>> http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=210/home_id=80/mode=cat/cat210.htm




________________________________
From: Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering

Anyone tried this on a Healey?

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sat Dec 26 16:06:51 2009
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 09:06:51 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  electric power steering
Message-ID: <20091226230651.SZTQ5306.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rowe4323ef3cc5>

-----Original Message-----
From: John & Kerry Rowe [mailto:jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au] 
Sent: Sunday, 27 December 2009 9:05 AM
To: 'Richard Dryman'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] electric power steering

Go to top right corner and click on English flag for that version
Sounds like a good idea
John Rowe Qld Aust

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Dryman
Sent: Sunday, 27 December 2009 8:42 AM
To: Linwood H Rose; healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] electric power steering

Not everyone speaks Dutch !
English translation>>> http://tiny.cc/powersteering

also Flaming River units for hot rods in the USA:

>>>
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=210/hom
e_id=80/mode=cat/cat210.htm




________________________________

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Dec 26 16:23:23 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 18:23:23 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
Message-ID: <c86.64dd9336.3867f4eb@aol.com>

Folks--

Thanks for all the good advise. It was never my  intention to draw this up 
on the back of the napkin and build it--both the  building and design will 
be professionally done. I amm simply fiddling with  "pre-plans" to get an 
idea of how I might lay the building out and one factor  (building/celing 
height involved the supporting rafters under the loft.

I  will take the advise of several and plan on more stuff going up in the 
loft than  I might now think and build it strong. I'm also going to reduce 
the building's  width by one foot to 24' and so take advantage of dimensional 
lumber and have  less waste.

Thanks again--Michael

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Dec 26 16:26:13 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 18:26:13 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Searching For an Old Friend
Message-ID: <d48.66d74d83.3867f595@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/26/2009 3:46:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
spyderweb at uwalumni.com writes:

If by  some chance this car still exists, I'd very much like to hear  about
it.



Jim--
 
It's out there playing with my 1959  BRG BN7 with chrome wires, a  
wolf-whistle tapped into the intake manifold and Marshall driving lights that I  
sold in around 1962 in NYC.  If you find yours let me know as I'd like to  find 
my old, first-love Healey.
 
Best--Michael

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Dec 26 16:32:37 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 18:32:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <547060.37432.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
	<547060.37432.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5C5A1DEE-07C9-4C72-87A3-8F83FB997939@mac.com>

Click on the American Flag at the top for the English version.
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2009, at 5:42 PM, Richard Dryman <rdryman1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Not everyone speaks Dutch !
> English translation>>> http://tiny.cc/powersteering
>
> also Flaming River units for hot rods in the USA:
>
>>>> http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=210/home_id=80/mode=cat/cat210.htm
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
>
> Anyone tried this on a Healey?
>
> http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as linwoodrose at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Dec 26 16:37:33 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 00:37:33 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4B369E3D.9010507@chello.nl>

These are universal sets that are adapted to a specific car. It is 
derived or originating from a modern Japanese power steering unit as 
used by several EU and Jap cars. They changed to electric instead of 
hydraulic because of its simplicity, reliability and ease of installation.
I have seen it installed on a TR6 and a Citroen HY and appearantly works 
well. Allthough the site is in Dutch the original system is from the UK 
I believe, however I am not sure. It can be adapted to most cars and 
there is an adaption fot the AH100-3000. Not cheap at around $3000-4000.
I know of a local garage for classic cars that installs them.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Linwood H Rose schreef:
> Anyone tried this on a Healey?
>
> http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 17:18:45 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 19:18:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <c86.64dd9336.3867f4eb@aol.com>
References: <c86.64dd9336.3867f4eb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912261618n6e7526cw412e75f6b130638a@mail.gmail.com>

Not to over battleship the design, but if you have a rolling ceiling
lift for pulling motors (say in the front half of the shed), it would
be smart to where you have the loft in the back half of the ceiling
and use the electric lift to pull heavier stuff into the loft for
storage, rather than you carrying spare gearboxes up the stairs by
hand.

On 12/27/09, Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:
> Folks--
>
> Thanks for all the good advise. It was never my  intention to draw this up
> on the back of the napkin and build it--both the  building and design will
> be professionally done. I amm simply fiddling with  "pre-plans" to get an
> idea of how I might lay the building out and one factor  (building/celing
> height involved the supporting rafters under the loft.
>
> I  will take the advise of several and plan on more stuff going up in the
> loft than  I might now think and build it strong. I'm also going to reduce
> the building's  width by one foot to 24' and so take advantage of
> dimensional
> lumber and have  less waste.
>
> Thanks again--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 26 18:05:22 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 19:05:22 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <5C5A1DEE-07C9-4C72-87A3-8F83FB997939@mac.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
	<547060.37432.qm@web110304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<5C5A1DEE-07C9-4C72-87A3-8F83FB997939@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4B36B2D2.7070702@justbrits.com>

<< Click on the American Flag at the top for the English version. >>

Or just be REAL 'lazy' and get the Google Tool Bar !!!

It ASKS you if you would like to translate !!  And from
WHICH language to which <G> !!

Also gives you the auto blank search 'box'.  Don't
we ALL search for something almost every day <G> ???
I don't know how anybody can be without !!!
And it's FREE !!!!

Hope ALL had a wonderful and Merry Christmas !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Sat Dec 26 18:16:58 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 20:16:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3319.1261873131.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3319.1261873131.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B36B58A.4040801@comcast.net>

Awgertoo wrote:
 > I'm also going to reduce the building's width by one foot to 24'

Or go up 3' to 28', so you'll have more space. You can always use more space. :)

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 26 18:44:29 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 19:44:29 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0912260741k34e7e4ebid1a4d16d7b6b83ca@mail.gmail.com>
References: <15501762.1261682053845.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<004701ca84d1$9c3dd650$d4b982f0$@rr.com>
	<COL109-W40D2562324A4BEB9F5F3ADAD7F0@phx.gbl>
	<B35C60EEBA514A6FB3D60B0FD2BE0F7B@LIFEBOOK>
	<COL109-W44518B21A9B6B23354B72DAD7D0@phx.gbl>
	<d9b7a14d0912260741k34e7e4ebid1a4d16d7b6b83ca@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B36BBFD.7060608@justbrits.com>

<< btw -- anyone else get caught in Comcast's Christmas Day
Massacre?  They stopped service to all the cable modems
they deemed obsolete on Christmas Day. No internet, no phone
service, no way to replace the modem... Aiyiyi... >>

YIKES Tom !!!

Bur must have been "local" to you as I do have
Internet & TV and we had ZERO problems ALL
day !!!!

Other then that, hope you & yours had a VERY
Merry Christmas !!!

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From sales at justbrits.com  Sat Dec 26 18:53:50 2009
From: sales at justbrits.com (Sales at " Just Brits ")
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 19:53:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Frogeye Org. Start Pull....
Message-ID: <4B36BE2E.1010003@justbrits.com>

on fleaBay !!!  Little work & one would have a Concours
item !!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=270505667531&category=140731&_
trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI
%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D10%26ps%3D63

or

*http://tinyurl.com/yl7mqaj

*

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Dec 26 19:33:38 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 20:33:38 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Joy
Message-ID: <20091226203338.YWZRZ.64519.root@ispmxfep10-z01>

Enjoy a hill climb!!  See who wins.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-DGMrLGnLg 

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 26 20:51:09 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 21:51:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Joy
In-Reply-To: <20091226203338.YWZRZ.64519.root@ispmxfep10-z01>
References: <20091226203338.YWZRZ.64519.root@ispmxfep10-z01>
Message-ID: <4B36D9AD.8080907@comcast.net>

<< Enjoy a hill climb!! See who wins. >>

Since the clip is OVER two (2) years [older than you also <G>],
old, I'll take the Frogeye for $100.00.
 
You 'on' ???

Ed

PS:  I even think I've seen it posted here <VBG> !!

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Dec 27 00:44:01 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 18:44:01 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis with 4-speed Mountings
Message-ID: <14710F43EB6C4F7CBAC211A40082855F@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

Perhaps this will prove of interest and someone might have heard of this
beforehand?

 

I had a call from a friend who was fitting a 4-speed BN2 gearbox to a BN1.
The chassis number of the car is BN1/223174 and correctly it is fitted with
a hypoid drive rear end. As far as it's known the car has never been fully
restored nor had an accident.

 

As most would know the mountings for a BN1 gearbox are vastly different to
that of the BN2. 

 

With the gearbox removed my friend was preparing the chassis for the new
mounting brackets and while scraping away with a screwdriver found that the
BN2 mounting and captive nuts were already fitted to the chassis.

 

Has anyone come across a BN1 chassis that has such BN2 fittings already
installed?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

(Where it's mid summer)

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Dec 27 06:34:05 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 8:34:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Joy
In-Reply-To: <4B36D9AD.8080907@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091227073405.4VZJ8.64993.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Well EXcuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me.  Since it is 2 years old, how were you able to remember it?  (VBG) (LOL) (he he)


---- 63ahbj7 <63ahbj7 at comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
<< Enjoy a hill climb!! See who wins. >>

Since the clip is OVER two (2) years [older than you also <G>],
old, I'll take the Frogeye for $100.00.
 
You 'on' ???

Ed

PS:  I even think I've seen it posted here <VBG> !!
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 27 07:17:30 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 07:17:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis with 4-speed Mountings
In-Reply-To: <14710F43EB6C4F7CBAC211A40082855F@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <14710F43EB6C4F7CBAC211A40082855F@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <2D969865F8EF4BE582D5FD13D3719805@oscar>

Yep, that would be mine.. It had a BN1 gearbox crudely mounted with
brackets. Did the humane thing and installed a proper 4 speed with a 28%
reduction O/D and topped it off with a spiral bevel 3.6667:1 Atlantic
pumpkin...
BN1/ 151480
frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 12:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis with 4-speed Mountings

G'day

 

Perhaps this will prove of interest and someone might have heard of this
beforehand?

 

I had a call from a friend who was fitting a 4-speed BN2 gearbox to a BN1.
The chassis number of the car is BN1/223174 and correctly it is fitted with
a hypoid drive rear end. As far as it's known the car has never been fully
restored nor had an accident.

 

As most would know the mountings for a BN1 gearbox are vastly different to
that of the BN2. 

 

With the gearbox removed my friend was preparing the chassis for the new
mounting brackets and while scraping away with a screwdriver found that the
BN2 mounting and captive nuts were already fitted to the chassis.

 

Has anyone come across a BN1 chassis that has such BN2 fittings already
installed?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

(Where it's mid summer)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Sun Dec 27 07:59:00 2009
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 09:59:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Issue
Message-ID: <2C93233C5F9C40D68D86250E6D66C111@655vb01>

Fellow Listers,
In replacing the bearings in the rear hubs, the workshop manual states that
"the outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001" to .004"
beyond the outer face of the hub AND THE PAPER WASHER when the bearing is
pressed into position." This doesn't seem to make sense to me because then the
paper washer could not be compressed by the axle flange to provide a seal.
What am I missing?
Your help is appreciated.
Elton
BJ7 in progress

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 27 12:49:19 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:49:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chritmas Friday Funny
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912250417r4ad8028aka442526c3afd3a2e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <751d05480912250417r4ad8028aka442526c3afd3a2e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FFA079F20C6840289B1FE5D3790C45D2@LeonardPCPC>

Funny and evokes distrubing images.  Now unlock your doors, open the 
curtains, and reconnect your phone.  Then check 
http://www.snopes.com/humor/jokes/thermometer.asp

Did you keep the receipt so you can return the thermometer??  ;-)

Happy New Year and keep those Friday Funnys coming!

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 4:17 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Chritmas Friday Funny


> Hi Listers,
>
> As I leave for work on a chilly (it's 31 degrees F) SoCal Christmas 
> morning,
> and wishing I did not have to be working today, I'll leave you all with
> this...
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
> *
> When you have an 'I Hate My Job day'*
>
> [Even if you're retired, you sometimes have those days]
>
> Try this out:
>
> Stop at your pharmacy and go to the thermometer section and purchase a
> rectal thermometer made by Johnson & Johnson.
>
> Be very sure you get this brand.
>
> When you get home, lock your doors,draw the curtains and disconnect the
> phone so you will not be disturbed.
>
> Change into very comfortable clothing and sit in your favorite chair. Open
> the package and remove the thermometer.  Now, carefully place it on a 
> table
> or a surface so that it will not become chipped or broken.
>
> Now the fun part begins.
>
> Take out the literature from the box and read it carefully.  You will 
> notice
> that in small print there is a statement:
>
> *"Every Rectal Thermometer made by Johnson & Johnson is personally tested
> and then sanitized."*
>
> Now, close your eyes and repeat out loud five times,' I am so glad I do 
> not
> work in the thermometer quality control department at Johnson & Johnson.'
>
> HAVE A NICE DAY; AND REMEMBER, THERE IS ALWAYS SOMEONE ELSE WITH A JOB 
> THAT
> IS MORE OF A PAIN IN THE ASS THAN YOURS!
>
> ....Remember, if you haven't got a smile on your face and laughter in your
> heart...Then you are just an old sour fart;
>
> Maybe you should go and work for Johnson and Johnson
>
> Enjoy life now - It has an expiration date!
> _______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Dec 27 13:32:29 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:32:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] electric power steering
In-Reply-To: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
References: <8E2523A7-7C4F-4C94-8318-B4F0CEEA3450@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4B37C45D.10606@chello.nl>

I looked a bit clooser at the article. It is a Dutch firm that develops 
and builds kits for a wide veriety of classics. I had thought earlier 
they were a British firm. They also have agents in several countries in 
Europe.
I have seen their work on classic car events for several years and last 
year I met a garage owner near by who fits the sets and is rather 
enthousiastic.
Appearantly they got the idea from US hotrodders, so I presume you can 
find similar firms in the US.
They do carry a conversion kit for the Austin Healey 100-3000. I am sure 
they can send the set to the US and you can fit it yourself or have it 
fitted locally.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Linwood H Rose schreef:
> Anyone tried this on a Healey?
>
> http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=0&lang=en
>
> Lin

From noreply at ci.faniq.com  Sun Dec 27 15:26:13 2009
From: noreply at ci.faniq.com (Joe M)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 15:26:13 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Healeys] joemulqueen@yahoo.com has sent you a private message
Message-ID: <20091227222613.BE77D187644@autox.team.net>


From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Dec 27 15:36:15 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 17:36:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  BN1 Chassis with 4-speed Mountings
Message-ID: <D064C2CD8D5C444AB3669EFEC99B85B4@LIFEBOOK>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis with 4-speed Mountings


> Hi Pat,
>
> BN1 223174 would have come down the assembly line in early January 1955, 
> long before any possible transitioning would have taken place to prepare 
> for a 4 speed gearbox. Is there also evidence of the early or later 
> stabilizing rod cross member?
>
> I would have to say that somebody has been there before, between the time 
> the car was built and now and installed those BN2 mounting points.

> Many thanks,
>
> Rich Chrysler
> Hundred Registrar
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 2:44 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis with 4-speed
>> I had a call from a friend who was fitting a 4-speed BN2 gearbox to a 
>> BN1.
>> The chassis number of the car is BN1/223174 and correctly it is fitted 
>> with
>> a hypoid drive rear end. As far as it's known the car has never been 
>> fully
>> restored nor had an accident.
>
>> As most would know the mountings for a BN1 gearbox are vastly different 
>> to
>> that of the BN2.
>
>> With the gearbox removed my friend was preparing the chassis for the new
>> mounting brackets and while scraping away with a screwdriver found that 
>> the
>> BN2 mounting and captive nuts were already fitted to the chassis.
>
>> Has anyone come across a BN1 chassis that has such BN2 fittings already
>> installed?
>
>> Hoo Roo
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Sydney, Australia
>>
>> (Where it's mid summer)

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Dec 27 15:59:43 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 17:59:43 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Issue
Message-ID: <c33.69cb55d7.386940df@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/27/2009 10:19:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
eschulz at frontiernet.net writes:

"the  outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001" to .004"
beyond  the outer face of the hub AND THE PAPER WASHER when the bearing is
pressed  into position." 
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Elton--
 
The flange on the half-shaft is "dished" in the middle and the  outer flat 
portion will come in contact with the flat face of the hub and  the paper 
gasket which will compress and provide a seal.
 
Best--Michael Oritt 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Dec 27 18:18:09 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:18:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>

All -

I don't if any of you pay attention to this, but one of the most distressing
car things I have seen in the last few years is Ford's plan to sell Volvo to
Geely - Geely is China's premier car maker.

Basically, Ford is selling Volvo to Geely for about 1/3 what they paid for
Volvo just a few years ago.  Why would Geely want Volvo?

A bit of background from a guy who lives in China - right now the quality of
Chinese cars isn't all that bad except in one major area - safety.  In this
area, Chinese cars are DECADES behind the rest of the world in design.  The
reason why is designing crumple zones and safety cages is very very complex
requiring sophisticated technology and decades of engineering experience -
Volvo cars are safe for good reason.  If you do any search on Youtube of
what happens to a Chinese made car in an accident should scare the crap out
of you.

So Ford, to settle a very small amount of debt, is selling Volvo for cash to
Geely.  This has to be one of the most short sighted things I have ever seen
any American car company ever do.  Basically, Ford is selling the very
expertise that Geely needs to destroy Ford in the future in worldwide
sales.  All for less than 2 billion dollars.  I suggest that within a decade
Ford will be losing more business globally than that on an annual basis to
Geely because of the expertise they are literally giving away for a pocket
full of change.

Who's to blame for giving assistance on a silver platter to the rise of
China?  I certainly don't blame the Chinese for this.  Ford should be
ashamed of itself.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From amalin at mac.com  Sun Dec 27 19:14:51 2009
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:14:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AAC48FF1-B8EB-4384-B0DC-DD7AB030445A@mac.com>

Instead of raising money by selling assets Ford should get some "Obama  
money" from Obama's Stash.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19v5Kjmc8FI

Regards,
Al Malin

"It's not your father's Obamobile."



On Dec 27, 2009, at 8:18 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

> All -
>
> I don't if any of you pay attention to this, but one of the most  
> distressing
> car things I have seen in the last few years is Ford's plan to sell  
> Volvo to
> Geely - Geely is China's premier car maker.
>
> Basically, Ford is selling Volvo to Geely for about 1/3 what they  
> paid for
> Volvo just a few years ago.  Why would Geely want Volvo?
>
> A bit of background from a guy who lives in China - right now the  
> quality of
> Chinese cars isn't all that bad except in one major area - safety.   
> In this
> area, Chinese cars are DECADES behind the rest of the world in  
> design.  The
> reason why is designing crumple zones and safety cages is very very  
> complex
> requiring sophisticated technology and decades of engineering  
> experience -
> Volvo cars are safe for good reason.  If you do any search on  
> Youtube of
> what happens to a Chinese made car in an accident should scare the  
> crap out
> of you.
>
> So Ford, to settle a very small amount of debt, is selling Volvo for  
> cash to
> Geely.  This has to be one of the most short sighted things I have  
> ever seen
> any American car company ever do.  Basically, Ford is selling the very
> expertise that Geely needs to destroy Ford in the future in worldwide
> sales.  All for less than 2 billion dollars.  I suggest that within  
> a decade
> Ford will be losing more business globally than that on an annual  
> basis to
> Geely because of the expertise they are literally giving away for a  
> pocket
> full of change.
>
> Who's to blame for giving assistance on a silver platter to the rise  
> of
> China?  I certainly don't blame the Chinese for this.  Ford should be
> ashamed of itself.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '59 Jag Mk IX
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as amalin at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Sun Dec 27 20:23:10 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:23:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B38249E.3050405@comcast.net>

Agreed Alan ['61 444 saved my life] BUT.....

<< Ford should be ashamed of itself. >>

At least Ford didn't use TARP money ?!?

And even Ford is NOT as bad as some of the
"management" in the financial 'area' that STILL
think they are "worth" [ @ ] $60 MILLION bucks
a year [even tho it WAS their decisions that put
their Co.(s) in the dumper(s) to start with ?!?!?!?
 
Just curious,  have any List Members figured out
HOW to run their [and families'] budget at a
NEGATIVE balance year after year AND live like
the "financial guys" ?!?!?

I   **AM**   in dire need of knowing how to do so !?!?

Ed

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 27 22:21:48 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 05:21:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <4B38249E.3050405@comcast.net>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4B38249E.3050405@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W27650541E7F9616A08EDE0A57B0@phx.gbl>

Not too much to disagree with in this post except that I don't think the
current, or even recent management of the big 3 is as much at fault as
previous generations of management AND the UAW.
Over the last thirty years the unions, with management acquiescence, have
systematically turned GM and Chrysler into enormous insurance and retirement
plans that also just happen to build a few cars. They essentially killed the
golden goose and then they forced their elected lackeys to bail them out using
our money. The bail-outs, while nominally intended to benefit the automobile
industry, were actually targeted to save the UAW. (The cow may die, but the
tapeworm is saved!)
Also not helpful to GM was the liability of their huge financial arm which was
heavily invested in the housing market. The Fannie/Freddie fiasco did them a
lot of harm.
Ford had the same problems but made some smarter management decisions in the
last few years putting them into the position to be able to ride out the storm
without government interference. Instead of taking the Obama buck Ford
declared they would rather declare bankruptcy and suddenly the UAW was willing
to negotiate. Imagine that!
We still have a very healthy automobile manufacturing base in the US, but it
goes under names like Honda, Toyota, Nissan and BMW. They are successful
because they are non-union. So let's see... The Japanese and Germans are
successfully using american labor and materials to build hugely profitable
product lines in this country while GM, Ford and Chrysler are on the brink of
destruction? Tell me... Who won that war again?
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:23:10 -0600
> From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
>
> Agreed Alan ['61 444 saved my life] BUT.....
>
> << Ford should be ashamed of itself. >>
>
> At least Ford didn't use TARP money ?!?
>
> And even Ford is NOT as bad as some of the
> "management" in the financial 'area' that STILL
> think they are "worth" [ @ ] $60 MILLION bucks
> a year [even tho it WAS their decisions that put
> their Co.(s) in the dumper(s) to start with ?!?!?!?
>
> Just curious,  have any List Members figured out
> HOW to run their [and families'] budget at a
> NEGATIVE balance year after year AND live like
> the "financial guys" ?!?!?
>
> I   **AM**   in dire need of knowing how to do so !?!?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 01:45:51 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:45:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <4B38249E.3050405@comcast.net>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B38249E.3050405@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B38703F.40603@chello.nl>

By just being a criminal like the financial guys, legally stealing money 
from others folks.
Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Just curious,  have any List Members figured out
> HOW to run their [and families'] budget at a
> NEGATIVE balance year after year AND live like
> the "financial guys" ?!?!?
>
> I   **AM**   in dire need of knowing how to do so !?!?
>
> Ed

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 02:13:02 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 10:13:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>

A few years ago the Chinese tried to sell an SUV in EU called the JMC 
(Jiangling Motor Company) Landwind. Basicly this was the old Opel 
Frontera (Izuzu Rodeo, Vauxhall Frontera, Holden Frontera) that General 
Motors (Opel, Vauxhall, Holden, Izuzu etc.) had to withdraw in haste 
because it did perform very poorly in the EuroNCAP test. The Landwind 
did even worse and did not sell at all.
The Chinese do not have a clue yet how to deal with car safety, however 
they are learning fast, as did the Japanese and Koreans in the past: 
they showed to be far superiour in the end in the devellopment of ideas 
and quality control. Innovation and design is another matter though.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Alan Seigrist schreef:
> All -
>
> I don't if any of you pay attention to this, but one of the most distressing
> car things I have seen in the last few years is Ford's plan to sell Volvo to
> Geely - Geely is China's premier car maker.
>
> Basically, Ford is selling Volvo to Geely for about 1/3 what they paid for
> Volvo just a few years ago.  Why would Geely want Volvo?
>
> A bit of background from a guy who lives in China - right now the quality of
> Chinese cars isn't all that bad except in one major area - safety.  In this
> area, Chinese cars are DECADES behind the rest of the world in design.  The
> reason why is designing crumple zones and safety cages is very very complex
> requiring sophisticated technology and decades of engineering experience -
> Volvo cars are safe for good reason.  If you do any search on Youtube of
> what happens to a Chinese made car in an accident should scare the crap out
> of you.
>
> So Ford, to settle a very small amount of debt, is selling Volvo for cash to
> Geely.  This has to be one of the most short sighted things I have ever seen
> any American car company ever do.  Basically, Ford is selling the very
> expertise that Geely needs to destroy Ford in the future in worldwide
> sales.  All for less than 2 billion dollars.  I suggest that within a decade
> Ford will be losing more business globally than that on an annual basis to
> Geely because of the expertise they are literally giving away for a pocket
> full of change.
>
> Who's to blame for giving assistance on a silver platter to the rise of
> China?  I certainly don't blame the Chinese for this.  Ford should be
> ashamed of itself.
>
> Alan

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Mon Dec 28 02:40:46 2009
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 10:40:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr>

Since the invention of black powder the chinese didn't create a lot. The 
litlle red book perhaps?...
B

Oudesluys a icrit :
>
> A few years ago the Chinese tried to sell an SUV in EU called the JMC 
> (Jiangling Motor Company) Landwind. Basicly this was the old Opel 
> Frontera (Izuzu Rodeo, Vauxhall Frontera, Holden Frontera) that 
> General Motors (Opel, Vauxhall, Holden, Izuzu etc.) had to withdraw in 
> haste because it did perform very poorly in the EuroNCAP test. The 
> Landwind did even worse and did not sell at all.
> The Chinese do not have a clue yet how to deal with car safety, 
> however they are learning fast, as did the Japanese and Koreans in the 
> past: they showed to be far superiour in the end in the devellopment 
> of ideas and quality control. Innovation and design is another matter 
> though.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Alan Seigrist schreef:
>> All -
>>
>> I don't if any of you pay attention to this, but one of the most 
>> distressing
>> car things I have seen in the last few years is Ford's plan to sell 
>> Volvo to
>> Geely - Geely is China's premier car maker.
>>
>> Basically, Ford is selling Volvo to Geely for about 1/3 what they 
>> paid for
>> Volvo just a few years ago.  Why would Geely want Volvo?
>>
>> A bit of background from a guy who lives in China - right now the 
>> quality of
>> Chinese cars isn't all that bad except in one major area - safety.  
>> In this
>> area, Chinese cars are DECADES behind the rest of the world in 
>> design.  The
>> reason why is designing crumple zones and safety cages is very very 
>> complex
>> requiring sophisticated technology and decades of engineering 
>> experience -
>> Volvo cars are safe for good reason.  If you do any search on Youtube of
>> what happens to a Chinese made car in an accident should scare the 
>> crap out
>> of you.
>>
>> So Ford, to settle a very small amount of debt, is selling Volvo for 
>> cash to
>> Geely.  This has to be one of the most short sighted things I have 
>> ever seen
>> any American car company ever do.  Basically, Ford is selling the very
>> expertise that Geely needs to destroy Ford in the future in worldwide
>> sales.  All for less than 2 billion dollars.  I suggest that within a 
>> decade
>> Ford will be losing more business globally than that on an annual 
>> basis to
>> Geely because of the expertise they are literally giving away for a 
>> pocket
>> full of change.
>>
>> Who's to blame for giving assistance on a silver platter to the rise of
>> China?  I certainly don't blame the Chinese for this.  Ford should be
>> ashamed of itself.
>>
>> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jagxk120 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Mon Dec 28 04:01:47 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:01:47 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
	<AAC48FF1-B8EB-4384-B0DC-DD7AB030445A@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BE85010D136F4F748156983BBD6E78EE@user8634b3d69b>

Much of Volvo technology may not go to Ford as some of it is Ford's current 
and future investment and this is causing delays in the sale.  It 
understandable from Ford's view point and indeed from China's.  However, as 
it is safety related technology should Ford be so recalcitrant?  They seem 
to be in the same position as China is now when Ford bought the Rover - Land 
Rover technology and BMW (after getting what they wanted) released it.
One very telling thing in relation to Chinese vehicle construction was when
they tried to build the Rover 800 after buying the model and transporting
the assembly lines to China.  Their vehicle failed European crash testing
abysmally.  The possible reason was the type of metal used in construction. 
It is understood China
used mild steel pressings whereas Rover UK had use a goodly proportion of 
high
strength steel (HSS) pressings.
There is a great deal of difference between the two metals, Vauxhall (UK arm
of Chrysler) introduced HSS to UK cars quite a few years ago but didn't tell 
anyone.  This
came to light when repaired accident damaged cars started appearing
strongly in insurance write-off lists following minor bumps.  It is 
understood that Vauxhall had told its
dealers where the bodyframe HSS had been included and no-one else.  Not all 
dealers have
good communication between themselves and the outsourced body repair shops
they use.  By far the majority of body repair shops (independent businesses)
had not been told.  HSS cannot (read should not) be welded as it produces
very soft metal lines either side of a 'good looking' weld due to post
welding annealing problems but should be glued or lower temperature brazed.
Although this is now a widely known within the industry, Vauxhall received 
industry criticism for their 'closed' approach.
China's HSS production (if there is any, after all it is a hi-tech 
production system),
may go to their military but not to the lower ranking car industry.  Buying
a current Chinese car could be buying a safety problem but sometime in the 
not too distant
future they will be a product to be reckoned with.

Guy R Day

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 04:21:28 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 12:21:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl> <4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr>
Message-ID: <4B3894B8.8060604@chello.nl>

Bernard,
I think it is time to reconsidder.
They have two very big advantages: they are willing to work very, very 
hard and they learn fast. It will not be long before they surpass the US 
as the biggest economy in the world.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bernard Cristalli schreef:
> Since the invention of black powder the chinese didn't create a lot. 
> The litlle red book perhaps?...
> B
>
> Oudesluys a icrit :
>>
>> A few years ago the Chinese tried to sell an SUV in EU called the JMC 
>> (Jiangling Motor Company) Landwind. Basicly this was the old Opel 
>> Frontera (Izuzu Rodeo, Vauxhall Frontera, Holden Frontera) that 
>> General Motors (Opel, Vauxhall, Holden, Izuzu etc.) had to withdraw 
>> in haste because it did perform very poorly in the EuroNCAP test. The 
>> Landwind did even worse and did not sell at all.
>> The Chinese do not have a clue yet how to deal with car safety, 
>> however they are learning fast, as did the Japanese and Koreans in 
>> the past: they showed to be far superiour in the end in the 
>> devellopment of ideas and quality control. Innovation and design is 
>> another matter though.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Mon Dec 28 04:47:20 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:47:20 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey's retail business - LONDON
In-Reply-To: <349296.98691.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <349296.98691.qm@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B389AC8.9010206@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

The London Showroom is shown in the book 'THE HEALEY STORY' p.140 & p.158
Interestingly above the entrance door to the showrooms are shown the 
following registered companies;
* DONALD HEALEY MOTOR CO. LTD.
* HEALEY CAR SALES LTD.
* HEALEY MARINE LTD.
I believe it was when these London showrooms were closed down that John 
Sprinzel went down stairs to the 'mews' and took over the Healey Speed 
Equipment organisation. One of his first employees was Australian Paul 
Hawkins who started as a mechanic and ended up a works driver of Sprites 
and big Healeys at Sebring and the Targa Florio. He then went on to 
drive works Ford GT.40's , Porches and Lola T.70's.
also
the old cinema is shown as a BMC   'INTERNATIONAL SPORTS CAR CENTRE' on 
p.115 &116 in 'DONALD HEALEY MY WORLD OF CARS' and shown in the showroom 
are;  an MGB and I think an MG Midget.

Buy a book at the post Xmas sales

Joe

From kturk at adelphia.net  Mon Dec 28 05:06:40 2009
From: kturk at adelphia.net (Keith Turk)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 06:06:40 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com><4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>
	<4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr> <4B3894B8.8060604@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <A78CEC7698FA4F31A829917373698ED8@keithhrijwmm4p>

Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's technology in the 
60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible...

K 

From bluehealey at googlemail.com  Mon Dec 28 05:11:10 2009
From: bluehealey at googlemail.com (AlanB)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 12:11:10 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <4B3894B8.8060604@chello.nl>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com><4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>
	<4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr> <4B3894B8.8060604@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <5761765CA5964353BDBCC6AB63D3DCBB@Dell>

Hi Team
Feeding this off-topic discussion goes against the grain however Kees'
comment below drew me out. This is the competition the western world is up
against..............
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMOBqRVDOYQ
You may already have seen it as went the rounds some time ago.
Enjoy and weep.

Happy New Year to you all.
 _____________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
      (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______)
          (_________________________)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: 28 December 2009 11:21
To: Bernard Cristalli
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale

Bernard,
I think it is time to reconsidder.
They have two very big advantages: they are willing to work very, very 
hard and they learn fast. It will not be long before they surpass the US 
as the biggest economy in the world.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 07:06:41 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:06:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
In-Reply-To: <5761765CA5964353BDBCC6AB63D3DCBB@Dell>
References: <ff59076c0912271718v33f29253s22b271a27a463170@mail.gmail.com><4B38769E.9080708@chello.nl>
	<4B387D1E.3030909@club-internet.fr> <4B3894B8.8060604@chello.nl>
	<5761765CA5964353BDBCC6AB63D3DCBB@Dell>
Message-ID: <4B38BB71.103@chello.nl>

As I said they have no inkling about safety yet. They will soon learn. 
These situations were also common in the Western world not even that 
long ago in the 60's and later i.e. when your Healey was build.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


AlanB schreef:
> Hi Team
> Feeding this off-topic discussion goes against the grain however Kees'
> comment below drew me out. This is the competition the western world is up
> against..............
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMOBqRVDOYQ
> You may already have seen it as went the rounds some time ago.
> Enjoy and weep.
>
> Happy New Year to you all.
>  _____________________________________________
> (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
>       (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______)
>           (_________________________)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
> Sent: 28 December 2009 11:21
> To: Bernard Cristalli
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Car Related - Ford Volvo Sale
>
> Bernard,
> I think it is time to reconsidder.
> They have two very big advantages: they are willing to work very, very 
> hard and they learn fast. It will not be long before they surpass the US 
> as the biggest economy in the world.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From eorr at cogeco.ca  Mon Dec 28 07:21:35 2009
From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:21:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Project Car
References: <2972F73500DA403BB7C8B368EED22F2D@jackniolfz37if>
Message-ID: <9E5BC843D4BB40BEB3BFEEDC1494F77A@HP29887285263>

I have a pair of Lucas SLR 700S lights needing rechrome has anyone done this 
successfully , is it necessary to remove all  rivets to do this properly and 
if so are the rivets available .

Ed Orr
65 BJ8
66 BJ8 project 

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Dec 28 08:07:57 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 10:07:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
References: <c86.64dd9336.3867f4eb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6D757F25C93B4121844BCF0FB7D6FFBE@computer624080>

Michael --

If you want central air-conditioning, then forced-air heat with a furnace is 
the way to go.  If not, then consider radiant heat in the concrete floor. 
We put this in our new 24' x 36' garage/shop, using a propane water heater 
instead of a furnace.  Very comfortable even at relatively low air 
temperature, as your feet--and whatever other parts of you are in contact 
with the floor!--are warm; we keep it in the low 50s and are happy.  We have 
2x6 walls and plenty of insulation, and the building maintains its 
temperature with very little fuel use.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Awgertoo at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 6:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design


> Folks--
>
> Thanks for all the good advise. It was never my  intention to draw this up
> on the back of the napkin and build it--both the  building and design will
> be professionally done. I amm simply fiddling with  "pre-plans" to get an
> idea of how I might lay the building out and one factor  (building/celing
> height involved the supporting rafters under the loft.
>
> I  will take the advise of several and plan on more stuff going up in the
> loft than  I might now think and build it strong. I'm also going to reduce
> the building's  width by one foot to 24' and so take advantage of 
> dimensional
> lumber and have  less waste.
>
> Thanks again--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

From healeymnster at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 08:12:35 2009
From: healeymnster at gmail.com (Ed Townley)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:12:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
Message-ID: <164073bc0912280712y48711c04r1ad6485349d9b0c9@mail.gmail.com>

Michael:
now for some far out ideas that I would incorporate if I were building
my 30x50 Garage barn again--Amen to the 12' or higher ceiling, also, I
would build a loft over 3/4 or more of the floor area, leaving only
enough room for the full extension of a 4 post lift.  now for the
radical part--since the 4 post lift is relatively inexpensive (check
northern tool catalogs), i would put another one at one edge of the
loft for a cheap elevator that still could be used as a lift if I had
the main one occupied by a car.  this would give me two lifts for
autos when needed, as well as a cheap elevator/dumbwaiter for access
to the second floor.
Although I don't think I could have afforded the cost of all this at
once when I originally built, I wish I had designed it this way, so I
could have added the loft and lifts later.  Have fun with your design
and building-
Regards,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

64 BJ8
59 AN5
60 AN5 RHD
74 Austin Mini

From: Awgertoo at aol.com
Subject: [Healeys] Garage Design
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <c86.64dd9336.3867f4eb at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Folks--

Thanks for all the good advise. It was never my  intention to draw this up
on the back of the napkin and build it--both the  building and design will
be professionally done. I amm simply fiddling with  "pre-plans" to get an
idea of how I might lay the building out and one factor  (building/celing
height involved the supporting rafters under the loft.

I  will take the advise of several and plan on more stuff going up in the
loft than  I might now think and build it strong. I'm also going to reduce
the building's  width by one foot to 24' and so take advantage of dimensional
lumber and have  less waste.

Thanks again--Michael

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Dec 28 08:13:26 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 10:13:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] seat-back pattern
Message-ID: <2FF4A9F87ED9412E83F5CB4A440CFA91@computer624080>

As no one offered what we need in response to my first request, let me try one
more time --

Does anyone have a bare-metal seat back from a BN1, BN2, or BN6 that they
could make a tracing of (last 6" of the "ears" at the bottom, showing
pivot-bolt hole) so that we can reconstruct what some DPO hacked off to fit
replacement seat covers?

Many thanks!

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 28 10:01:55 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:01:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Front Springs
Message-ID: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>

RE:   Phase 2 '67 BJ8

 

I have rebuilt my front end with Poly bushes, brass adjustable top trunion
bushes (to go negative camber) and 7/8ths front roll bar and tube shock
conversion... I am now looking a front springs.

 

My understanding is that the stock BJ8 springs are rated about 400 lbs.  I
would like to achieve a responsive "fast road" car and am willing to
sacrifice some ride for it, but don't want to feel like every pebble on the
road.

 

DW and others sell a variety of rated springs (500lbs, 600lbs, 800lbs and
1,000lbs).   

 

Also, I was planning on lowering the car by approximately 1" using spacers
between the lower wishbones and shock plates.  However, I note that
shortened springs are also available and am thinking that this might be a
better route.

 

I would be interested in feedback, experiences and comments.

 

Thanks

Paul

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 28 10:12:35 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:12:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
Message-ID: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>

Ok..some honesty...I'm facing my boogyman!

 

I've been rebuilding motors, transmissions and cars for many years..usually
successful (augmented with some very expensive mistakes).

 

Years ago, I rebuilt a '52 Willy's Flatfender Jeep and messed up on the
steering box (it actually worked out OK as long as you only wanted to turn
left!)..apparently, I've been scarred by the experience and have never
approached another one.

 

So, now I'm facing my nemesis..I've got the steering box (and tube) out of
the car on my workbench, and it's calling to me (like the grim reaper calls
it's next victim).

 

My real concern is alignment and centering after the rebuild.

 

Before I get started on the operation..perhaps some words of wisdom from the
list...

1.	Suggested replacement parts?  
2.	Do I simply reuse the existing shims and hope for the best?
3.	How do I realign when I'm done;

 

 

Thanks

Paul

From eorr at cogeco.ca  Mon Dec 28 11:16:07 2009
From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 13:16:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chroming Lucas driving lights
References: <2972F73500DA403BB7C8B368EED22F2D@jackniolfz37if>
	<9E5BC843D4BB40BEB3BFEEDC1494F77A@HP29887285263>
Message-ID: <EA34543CDC6C4EC3828D76A2A5775498@HP29887285263>

   (previous post I forgot to change the subject)

>I have a pair of Lucas SLR 700S lights needing rechrome has anyone done 
>this successfully , is it necessary to remove all  rivets to do this 
>properly and if so are the rivets available .
>
> Ed Orr
> 65 BJ8
> 66 BJ8 project _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eorr at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 


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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 12:06:12 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 20:06:12 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Front Springs
In-Reply-To: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
References: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <4B3901A4.3040900@chello.nl>

Leave well alone. You have changed to tube shocks (which ones?) and to a 
heavier anti-roll bar. Try out this set up first and experiment with the 
damper settings, starting at a low setting and gradually increasing the 
resistance. If you are not satisfied you can always change to heavier 
springs, but before you do it may be wise to add an anti-roll bar on the 
rear axle or increase the spring rate there. If you do not stiffen up 
the rear end the car will get very understeered.
Do not lower it for street use, it is already low by any standard 
looking at the damage most original/standard cars have underneath.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PG schreef:
> RE:   Phase 2 '67 BJ8
>
>  
>
> I have rebuilt my front end with Poly bushes, brass adjustable top trunion
> bushes (to go negative camber) and 7/8ths front roll bar and tube shock
> conversion... I am now looking a front springs.
>
>  
>
> My understanding is that the stock BJ8 springs are rated about 400 lbs.  I
> would like to achieve a responsive "fast road" car and am willing to
> sacrifice some ride for it, but don't want to feel like every pebble on the
> road.
>
>  
>
> DW and others sell a variety of rated springs (500lbs, 600lbs, 800lbs and
> 1,000lbs).   
>
>  
>
> Also, I was planning on lowering the car by approximately 1" using spacers
> between the lower wishbones and shock plates.  However, I note that
> shortened springs are also available and am thinking that this might be a
> better route.
>
>  
>
> I would be interested in feedback, experiences and comments.
>
>  
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte: 12/28/09 08:16:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 12:13:31 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 20:13:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
In-Reply-To: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
References: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <4B39035B.7030300@chello.nl>

What is wrong with the steering box? If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Get a proper WSM that describes the procedure if there is excessive 
play, more than 1" at the steering wheel rim. If you are not at ease 
doing the job have it done by the professionals. They have the needed 
parts at hand.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PG schreef:
> Ok..some honesty...I'm facing my boogyman!
>
>  
>
> I've been rebuilding motors, transmissions and cars for many years..usually
> successful (augmented with some very expensive mistakes).
>
>  
>
> Years ago, I rebuilt a '52 Willy's Flatfender Jeep and messed up on the
> steering box (it actually worked out OK as long as you only wanted to turn
> left!)..apparently, I've been scarred by the experience and have never
> approached another one.
>
>  
>
> So, now I'm facing my nemesis..I've got the steering box (and tube) out of
> the car on my workbench, and it's calling to me (like the grim reaper calls
> it's next victim).
>
>  
>
> My real concern is alignment and centering after the rebuild.
>
>  
>
> Before I get started on the operation..perhaps some words of wisdom from the
> list...
>
> 1.	Suggested replacement parts?  
> 2.	Do I simply reuse the existing shims and hope for the best?
> 3.	How do I realign when I'm done;
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte: 12/28/09 08:16:00

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Mon Dec 28 12:42:02 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:42:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
Message-ID: <711065BF-C3E0-4D15-9BEE-5AFDB059E225@comcast.net>

Listers,

Happy New year and great Healeying to all.

I have a question about the "dowel bolts" connecting the clutch  
housing to the rear engine plate.  This pertains to a BJ8 center shift  
gearbox/overdrive.  Looking at the clutch housing from the driver's  
position the shop manual and Moss catalogue show one dowel bolt   
applied at the 11:00 o,clock position.  What is the correct position  
for the second dowel bolt?

Marks 3
'66 BJ8

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 28 12:43:32 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:43:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
In-Reply-To: <4B39035B.7030300@chello.nl>
References: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
	<4B39035B.7030300@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <2BC0168710FA439A9C7D886746516266@PaulPC>

Leaks badly...have tried all the home remedies...grease, thicker oil etc
etc.

Time to replace the gaskets.

paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:14 AM
To: PG
Cc: 'healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box

What is wrong with the steering box? If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Get a proper WSM that describes the procedure if there is excessive 
play, more than 1" at the steering wheel rim. If you are not at ease 
doing the job have it done by the professionals. They have the needed 
parts at hand.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PG schreef:
> Ok..some honesty...I'm facing my boogyman!
>
>  
>
> I've been rebuilding motors, transmissions and cars for many
years..usually
> successful (augmented with some very expensive mistakes).
>
>  
>
> Years ago, I rebuilt a '52 Willy's Flatfender Jeep and messed up on the
> steering box (it actually worked out OK as long as you only wanted to turn
> left!)..apparently, I've been scarred by the experience and have never
> approached another one.
>
>  
>
> So, now I'm facing my nemesis..I've got the steering box (and tube) out of
> the car on my workbench, and it's calling to me (like the grim reaper
calls
> it's next victim).
>
>  
>
> My real concern is alignment and centering after the rebuild.
>
>  
>
> Before I get started on the operation..perhaps some words of wisdom from
the
> list...
>
> 1.	Suggested replacement parts?  
> 2.	Do I simply reuse the existing shims and hope for the best?
> 3.	How do I realign when I'm done;
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte:
12/28/09 08:16:00

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Dec 28 12:45:32 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:45:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Front Springs
In-Reply-To: <4B3901A4.3040900@chello.nl>
References: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
	<4B3901A4.3040900@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ECBE24DF658D481EA8B4688A969ABD16@PaulPC>

Good advice..

I have a DW rear Anti-sway bar that I have not yet installed.

With respect to lowering,  I always thought that the phase 2BJ8's sat a
little high...particularly in the rear.  Thought I would experiment.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] 
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:06 AM
To: PG
Cc: 'healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Springs

Leave well alone. You have changed to tube shocks (which ones?) and to a 
heavier anti-roll bar. Try out this set up first and experiment with the 
damper settings, starting at a low setting and gradually increasing the 
resistance. If you are not satisfied you can always change to heavier 
springs, but before you do it may be wise to add an anti-roll bar on the 
rear axle or increase the spring rate there. If you do not stiffen up 
the rear end the car will get very understeered.
Do not lower it for street use, it is already low by any standard 
looking at the damage most original/standard cars have underneath.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PG schreef:
> RE:   Phase 2 '67 BJ8
>
>  
>
> I have rebuilt my front end with Poly bushes, brass adjustable top trunion
> bushes (to go negative camber) and 7/8ths front roll bar and tube shock
> conversion... I am now looking a front springs.
>
>  
>
> My understanding is that the stock BJ8 springs are rated about 400 lbs.  I
> would like to achieve a responsive "fast road" car and am willing to
> sacrifice some ride for it, but don't want to feel like every pebble on
the
> road.
>
>  
>
> DW and others sell a variety of rated springs (500lbs, 600lbs, 800lbs and
> 1,000lbs).   
>
>  
>
> Also, I was planning on lowering the car by approximately 1" using spacers
> between the lower wishbones and shock plates.  However, I note that
> shortened springs are also available and am thinking that this might be a
> better route.
>
>  
>
> I would be interested in feedback, experiences and comments.
>
>  
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte:
12/28/09 08:16:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 14:00:52 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:00:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
In-Reply-To: <2BC0168710FA439A9C7D886746516266@PaulPC>
References: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
	<4B39035B.7030300@chello.nl> <2BC0168710FA439A9C7D886746516266@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <4B391C84.6000704@chello.nl>

If it just leaks and there is no play, just take it apart carefully, 
noting all the parts and the place where they belong, renew gaskets and 
seals and put together again the same way it was, and all should be 
well. Take numerous pictures, sketches etc. when you dismantle. Watch 
out for loaded springs (if present) that may jump away.
However it may be better to have it rebuilt professionally.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


PG schreef:
> Leaks badly...have tried all the home remedies...grease, thicker oil etc
> etc.
>
> Time to replace the gaskets.
>
> paul

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 14:11:43 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:11:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
Message-ID: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>

The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
technology in the
60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.

My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold it
when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.

Who would have thought they would be a threat.

Jack

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 14:32:16 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 13:32:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <711065BF-C3E0-4D15-9BEE-5AFDB059E225@comcast.net>
References: <711065BF-C3E0-4D15-9BEE-5AFDB059E225@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <751d05480912281332k70d78be6ned9f2c744a6ab569@mail.gmail.com>

Mark,

>From the Concours Guidelines:

6-cylinder cars

The Dowel Bolts go in the "11:00" and "5:30" holes, top left and bottom
right.

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 11:42 AM, Mark Schneider <mandmschneider at comcast.net
> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Happy New year and great Healeying to all.
>
> I have a question about the "dowel bolts" connecting the clutch housing to
> the rear engine plate.  This pertains to a BJ8 center shift
> gearbox/overdrive.  Looking at the clutch housing from the driver's position
> the shop manual and Moss catalogue show one dowel bolt  applied at the 11:00
> o,clock position.  What is the correct position for the second dowel bolt?
>
> Marks 3
> '66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Dec 28 14:43:40 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:43:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Front Springs
In-Reply-To: <ECBE24DF658D481EA8B4688A969ABD16@PaulPC>
References: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
	<4B3901A4.3040900@chello.nl> <ECBE24DF658D481EA8B4688A969ABD16@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <4B39268C.3080004@chello.nl>

It is a bit higher than the early ones, and for a reason, but still very 
low compared with other street going cars. There is very little 
clearance and it nearly always looks a mess underneath. The planned 
negative camber may lower the front slightly.
Experiment bit by bit, do not change all parts at once and see what 
happens as you will not be able to feel which change made an improvement 
for you and which did not.
One should not forget that stiffening the suspension also puts heavier 
loads on the suspension parts, chassis, body and driver. This may lead 
to unforseen fractures and extra wear, especially on an old car driven 
in anger.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

PG schreef:
> Good advice..
>
> I have a DW rear Anti-sway bar that I have not yet installed.
>
> With respect to lowering,  I always thought that the phase 2BJ8's sat a
> little high...particularly in the rear.  Thought I would experiment.
>
> Paul

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Dec 28 14:54:25 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 21:54:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>

There is a story, possibly apocryphal, that there were three Austin Healeys in
Japan prior to the introduction of the Datsun 240Z. All were owned by
Datsun... You can snopes it and maybe disprove it, but I still like it.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:11:43 -0600
> From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
>
> The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
> technology in the
> 60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
> isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
> Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.
>
> My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold it
> when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
> books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.
>
> Who would have thought they would be a threat.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Dec 28 15:05:52 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:05:52 EST
Subject: [Healeys] More garage ideas
Message-ID: <bc3.600c141d.386a85c0@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/28/09 11:59:38 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> now for the
> radical part--since the 4 post lift is relatively inexpensive (check
> northern tool catalogs), i would put another one at one edge of the
> loft for a cheap elevator that still could be used as a lift if I had
> the main one occupied by a car. 
>

There will be many reasons to consider a four-post lift (which is primarily
useful for storage of one car over another) relative to a two-poster
(allows you to do full servicing underneath, change the wheels, remove springs
and
suspension, etc.) but this is one of the best ideas I've heard yet. A
high-roofed building that allows full lift of a four-post lift going up into
the
space left by not extending the second floor over all bays of the garage, is
a great idea. Then the loft can be used for storing large items (hardtop,
shrouds, etc. out of the way, and storing/accessing them by using the lift.

Definitely, but definitely include a small shower/toilet/washroom in the
garage for the many, many times you will want to clean up before going in the
house. Put a separate deep laundry room sink in the garage area, preferably
in a non-white material that can stand up to industrial-strength cleaning
materials.
Plan from the beginning to put an industrial-strength coating on the floor.
When we toured Canepa Design here, we learned that they put down a
five-coat epoxy paint system on their floors, well beyond anything you can buy
out
of the catalogs or in the Home Depot.

We'll be looking for an article for the magazines on the design of this
garage. You might do one in advance, with all the specs, and ideas, you're
going to build in the garage, or have considered, and then one later when the
garage is all finished.

Good luck,
Gary

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Dec 28 16:23:33 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:23:33 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day All

If you have a few minutes to spare you might like to have a look at an
article I prepared some years back. It's at:

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html

Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I am
not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't be
surprised.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Tuesday, 29 December 2009 8:54 AM
To: qualitas.jack at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry

There is a story, possibly apocryphal, that there were three Austin Healeys
in
Japan prior to the introduction of the Datsun 240Z. All were owned by
Datsun... You can snopes it and maybe disprove it, but I still like it.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:11:43 -0600
> From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
>
> The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
> technology in the
> 60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
> isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
> Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.
>
> My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold
it
> when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
> books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.
>
> Who would have thought they would be a threat.
>
> Jack

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec 28 16:34:01 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 23:34:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1013279932.3463081262043241824.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Read an article a while back--in Auto Restorer, I think--about the Z. IIRC, the chassis was based on a Triumph design (think the Z has IRS). 

The carburettors were SU copies made under license by Hitachi. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



There is a story, possibly apocryphal, that there were three Austin Healeys in 
Japan prior to the introduction of the Datsun 240Z. All were owned by 
Datsun... You can snopes it and maybe disprove it, but I still like it. 
Bill Lawrence 

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Dec 28 17:09:03 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:09:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
In-Reply-To: <2BC0168710FA439A9C7D886746516266@PaulPC>
References: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
	<4B39035B.7030300@chello.nl> <2BC0168710FA439A9C7D886746516266@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <4B39489F.60301@earthlink.net>

Consider installing two rocker shaft seals.  Should be room.

PG wrote:
> Leaks badly...have tried all the home remedies...grease, thicker oil etc
> etc.
> 
> Time to replace the gaskets.
> 
> paul
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] 
> Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:14 AM
> To: PG
> Cc: 'healey'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box
> 
> What is wrong with the steering box? If it ain't broke don't fix it.
> Get a proper WSM that describes the procedure if there is excessive 
> play, more than 1" at the steering wheel rim. If you are not at ease 
> doing the job have it done by the professionals. They have the needed 
> parts at hand.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> 
> 
> PG schreef:
>> Ok..some honesty...I'm facing my boogyman!
>>
>>  
>>
>> I've been rebuilding motors, transmissions and cars for many
> years..usually
>> successful (augmented with some very expensive mistakes).
>>
>>  
>>
>> Years ago, I rebuilt a '52 Willy's Flatfender Jeep and messed up on the
>> steering box (it actually worked out OK as long as you only wanted to turn
>> left!)..apparently, I've been scarred by the experience and have never
>> approached another one.
>>
>>  
>>
>> So, now I'm facing my nemesis..I've got the steering box (and tube) out of
>> the car on my workbench, and it's calling to me (like the grim reaper
> calls
>> it's next victim).
>>
>>  
>>
>> My real concern is alignment and centering after the rebuild.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Before I get started on the operation..perhaps some words of wisdom from
> the
>> list...
>>
>> 1.	Suggested replacement parts?  
>> 2.	Do I simply reuse the existing shims and hope for the best?
>> 3.	How do I realign when I'm done;
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Paul
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
>> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte:
> 12/28/09 08:16:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Dec 28 17:40:06 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:40:06 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
Message-ID: <cba.4dcbc8b7.386aa9e6@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/28/09 4:27:47 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I 
> am
> not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't 
> be
> surprised.
> 
Can't remember where I heard the story, but my understanding was that there 
were two prototype Healey coupes built from BJ8s, and after the whole 
Healey relationship fell apart and British Leyland discontinued production of the 
big Healeys, these two coupes were sold to Nissan/Datsun. Pictures in the 
standard Healey books of these cars do look a lot like the 240Z. It is quite 
true that a 240Z six-cylinder engine can be installed in a Healey 3000 
without changing any of the engine mounts or clearances, which many people say 
points to Nissan's reliance on the Healey engine for design of the 240Z 
engine.
Cheers
gary

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 28 18:35:16 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:35:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys]  Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
Message-ID: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Patrick,
The story I got back in '71 was that it was a Heale and an XKE coupe that
reproduced the 240Z. There was another story that it was 2 Healey's but still
a XKE Jag coupe.
The Japanesse were very well known for copying technologies and design from
other companies and our politicians were powerless/helpless to stop them
thanks to Lobbyests.
Patrick
BJ8 (since '72)
 
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink at msn.com>,
    <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>,    <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF at PatrickQuinnPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

G'day All

If you have a few minutes to spare you might like to have a look at an
article I prepared some years back. It's at:

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html

Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I am
not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't be
surprised.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Dec 28 18:42:52 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:42:52 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Front Springs
In-Reply-To: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
References: <957A4546AE74440191618A8F881E1B96@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <5005CC69734B4837BBF6BD4954C4D253@GregPC>

Paul, I lowered my 100 front end by using spacers between the lower a arm 
and spring plates and drove it that way for years with no noticeable ill 
effects.

In fact the car did quite well at the local autocrosses, beating the TR6s 
and such.  I lowered the front because the rears had settled a bit and I am 
gusessing it had the later 6 cylinder front springs from a disc brake 
conversion.

I will add that the oil pan was quite beat up, but most if not all of that 
damage occured prior to my ownership.

Greg Lemon 

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 28 19:34:23 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 18:34:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I remember when the Miata was introduced, Mazda advertised they had recorded
sounds of British sports cars to get the exhaust note sound right:
http://www.canadiandriver.com/2005/10/11/feature-mazdas-little-miata-finds-it
s-place-in-history.htm

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 12/28/09, Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys]  Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, December 28, 2009, 8:35 PM

Patrick,
The story I got back in '71 was that it was a Heale and an XKE coupe that
reproduced the 240Z. There was another story that it was 2 Healey's but still
a XKE Jag coupe.
The Japanesse were very well known for copying technologies and design from
other companies and our politicians were powerless/helpless to stop them
thanks to Lobbyests.
Patrick
BJ8 (since '72)

From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink at msn.com>,
    <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>,    <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF at PatrickQuinnPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

G'day All

If you have a few minutes to spare you might like to have a look at an
article I prepared some years back. It's at:

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html

Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I am
not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't be
surprised.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From deemi at juno.com  Mon Dec 28 20:16:35 2009
From: deemi at juno.com (deemi at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:16:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] found in a book on healeys /Start of the Japanese Auto
	Industry
Message-ID: <20091228.221635.2068.0.deemi@juno.com>

I found it in Healey, the Handsome Brute, page  228-231 talks of the two
big healeys owned by nissan, and the direction this took them in making
the 240 Z

did you also ever notice the symbol on the big healey horn button and
that on the side of a z car?

Bob Bowie in Maine
____________________________________________________________
Love Spell
Click here to light up your life with a love spell!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=1ehL4JNlt1SCMkafPp0r3AAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARwAAAAA=

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 28 20:44:12 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 03:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Issue
In-Reply-To: <2C93233C5F9C40D68D86250E6D66C111@655vb01>
References: <2C93233C5F9C40D68D86250E6D66C111@655vb01>
Message-ID: <COL106-W28440DDFCE2006C6E97F09C07A0@phx.gbl>

The bearing spacer must stand proud a few thousands in order for the axle
flange to pinch the outer race of hub bearing and hold it tight. Otherwise the
outer race of the bearing will begin to turn and eventually hog out the hole
and ruin the hub.  You must make the measurement with the paper gasket in
place but NOT with the o-ring in place. After assembly, with the o-ring in
place, things should seal up just fine when things are nipped up. Maybe a
gasket is not even needed, but why take a chance?  Richard Mayor


> From: eschulz at frontiernet.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 09:59:00 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Issue
>
> Fellow Listers,
> In replacing the bearings in the rear hubs, the workshop manual states that
> "the outer face of the bearing spacer should protrude from .001" to .004"
> beyond the outer face of the hub AND THE PAPER WASHER when the bearing is
> pressed into position." This doesn't seem to make sense to me because then
the
> paper washer could not be compressed by the axle flange to provide a seal.
> What am I missing?
> Your help is appreciated.
> Elton
> BJ7 in progress
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 28 20:48:39 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:48:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
References: <C11250EF257F45BC898D7E9B0CB4108E@PaulPC>
Message-ID: <001201ca8839$ceedba00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Get your digital camera and take pictures in sequence as you remove the 
various parts.   Using the Haynes
and the Bentley workshop manual with your pictures you can't go wrong. 
Maybe you just need to install a new ferule  and end gasket.    STP works 
well as a stop leak fluid.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: "'healey'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box


> Ok..some honesty...I'm facing my boogyman!
>
>
>
> I've been rebuilding motors, transmissions and cars for many 
> years..usually
> successful (augmented with some very expensive mistakes).
>
>
>
> Years ago, I rebuilt a '52 Willy's Flatfender Jeep and messed up on the
> steering box (it actually worked out OK as long as you only wanted to turn
> left!)..apparently, I've been scarred by the experience and have never
> approached another one.
>
>
>
> So, now I'm facing my nemesis..I've got the steering box (and tube) out of
> the car on my workbench, and it's calling to me (like the grim reaper 
> calls
> it's next victim).
>
>
>
> My real concern is alignment and centering after the rebuild.
>
>
>
> Before I get started on the operation..perhaps some words of wisdom from 
> the
> list...
>
> 1. Suggested replacement parts?
> 2. Do I simply reuse the existing shims and hope for the best?
> 3. How do I realign when I'm done;
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 20:48:59 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:48:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <cba.4dcbc8b7.386aa9e6@aol.com>
References: <cba.4dcbc8b7.386aa9e6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912281948r1903034m13d72f2816575b5f@mail.gmail.com>

The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
compact motor for sure, not the same.

The Datsun 1500/1600 is the one that's a direct drop in for the MGA/MGB motor.


On 12/29/09, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 12/28/09 4:27:47 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
>> Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I
>> am
>> not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't
>> be
>> surprised.
>>
> Can't remember where I heard the story, but my understanding was that there
> were two prototype Healey coupes built from BJ8s, and after the whole
> Healey relationship fell apart and British Leyland discontinued production
> of the
> big Healeys, these two coupes were sold to Nissan/Datsun. Pictures in the
> standard Healey books of these cars do look a lot like the 240Z. It is quite
> true that a 240Z six-cylinder engine can be installed in a Healey 3000
> without changing any of the engine mounts or clearances, which many people
> say
> points to Nissan's reliance on the Healey engine for design of the 240Z
> engine.
> Cheers
> gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 21:26:18 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 20:26:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com>

I knew Bob Hall and his brother Jim back when they were first out of high
school.  The article is correct about him liking British cars.  In the group
of guys that hung together there was at various times 100-4, 100-6,
Spitfire, Sprite/Midgets, MGB, P1800 You get the idea.  He used the Lotus
Elan as a design inspiration for the Miata.


On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 6:34 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I remember when the Miata was introduced, Mazda advertised they had
> recorded
> sounds of British sports cars to get the exhaust note sound right:
>
> http://www.canadiandriver.com/2005/10/11/feature-mazdas-little-miata-finds-it
> s-place-in-history.htm
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Mon, 12/28/09, Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> From: Patrick Yoas <pyoas at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys]  Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
> To: "Healey Forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, December 28, 2009, 8:35 PM
>
> Patrick,
> The story I got back in '71 was that it was a Heale and an XKE coupe that
> reproduced the 240Z. There was another story that it was 2 Healey's but
> still
> a XKE Jag coupe.
> The Japanesse were very well known for copying technologies and design from
> other companies and our politicians were powerless/helpless to stop them
> thanks to Lobbyests.
> Patrick
> BJ8 (since '72)
>
> From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
> To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink at msn.com>,
>    <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>,    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF at PatrickQuinnPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> G'day All
>
> If you have a few minutes to spare you might like to have a look at an
> article I prepared some years back. It's at:
>
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html
>
> Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I am
> not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't be
> surprised.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 00:17:56 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 02:17:56 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
Message-ID: <c9b.449a4067.386b0724@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/28/09 7:48:59 PM, healey.nut at gmail.com writes:


> The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
> compact motor for sure, not the same.
> 

The one that I saw, with the six-cylinder Nissan motor in the Healey, 
didn't look as if it was much smaller since it filled the engine bay just about 
as completely, with the engine mounts in exactly the same place. All I know 
is what I saw, and reports I've heard of other swaps.
gary

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 29 02:01:57 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:01:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B39C585.5010009@chello.nl>

Datsun/Nissan started with the assembly of CKD kits from Austin, not the 
most advanced automotive design at the time. When they started to build 
cars on their own accord they were technically very similar to the 
Austin products. I believe that  engines and gearboxes from both makes 
were interchangable in the beginning.
However Toyota  produced cars of their own design in the thirties and 
there were others.
Do not forget that there were considerable engineering skils well before 
the war. They produced some very advanced and feared warplanes and such.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

                                                  
Jack Feldman schreef:
> The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
> technology in the
> 60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
> isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
> Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.
>
> My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold it
> when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
> books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.
>
> Who would have thought they would be a threat.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte: 12/28/09 08:16:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 29 02:35:15 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:35:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
	<DE094AD071BE4C8F991DAE7882784CCF@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <4B39CD53.2070003@chello.nl>

Patrick,
A very interresting article which enlarged my very limited knowlegde of 
the early Japanese cars considerably.
Thanks.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef:
> G'day All
>
> If you have a few minutes to spare you might like to have a look at an
> article I prepared some years back. It's at:
>
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html
>
> Actually it was two 3000s and not 3. Whether they used them for study I am
> not sure, but given the Nissan (Datsun) connection beforehand I wouldn't be
> surprised.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 December 2009 8:54 AM
> To: qualitas.jack at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
>
> There is a story, possibly apocryphal, that there were three Austin Healeys
> in
> Japan prior to the introduction of the Datsun 240Z. All were owned by
> Datsun... You can snopes it and maybe disprove it, but I still like it.
> Bill Lawrence
>
>   
>> Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:11:43 -0600
>> From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
>>
>> The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
>> technology in the
>> 60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
>> isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
>> Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.
>>
>> My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold
>>     
> it
>   
>> when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
>> books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.
>>
>> Who would have thought they would be a threat.
>>
>> Jack
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte: 12/28/09 08:16:00

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 05:22:44 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 14:22:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <c9b.449a4067.386b0724@aol.com>
References: <c9b.449a4067.386b0724@aol.com>
Message-ID: <867C66FB-1885-45E4-8B6B-BACA4ED57B1A@gmail.com>

Richard Mayor had a Z engine in one of his healeys. Richard chime in  
on the details

I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 29, 2009, at 9:17 AM, Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/28/09 7:48:59 PM, healey.nut at gmail.com writes:
>
>
>> The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
>> compact motor for sure, not the same.
>>
>
> The one that I saw, with the six-cylinder Nissan motor in the Healey,
> didn't look as if it was much smaller since it filled the engine bay  
> just about
> as completely, with the engine mounts in exactly the same place. All  
> I know
> is what I saw, and reports I've heard of other swaps.
> gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Dec 29 05:56:19 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 07:56:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY144-W11D06F1BD6C4BB2716825BA57B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000d01ca8886$513d0870$f3b71950$@rr.com>

HBJ8L/41737 was owned in Japan prior to 22 January 1969 by someone who was a
civilian employee of the U.S. Army, and HBJ8/42183 was dispatched from the
factory to Japan on 17 August 1967, so there were at least two BJ8s in Japan
prior to the introduction of the Fairlady (240Z) in 1969.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:54 PM
To: qualitas.jack at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry

There is a story, possibly apocryphal, that there were three Austin Healeys
in
Japan prior to the introduction of the Datsun 240Z. All were owned by
Datsun... You can snopes it and maybe disprove it, but I still like it.
Bill Lawrence

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 06:40:40 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 21:40:40 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <4B39C585.5010009@chello.nl>
References: <48720d20912281311g7fb72625qa1ae1276d32cb515@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B39C585.5010009@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912290540r7dcb8953h3ca39b149c6f9e85@mail.gmail.com>

Yes true about their figher planes being well designed but the engines
were made under license from Pratt & Whitney so Pearl Harbor was
bombed with warplanes powered by US war technology.

Later in the war they were using German engine technology (inverted
BMW motors), they never successfully made use of their own true
homegrown design of powering their aircraft.

I think even the Ohka manned missle used german rocket technology.

On 12/29/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> Datsun/Nissan started with the assembly of CKD kits from Austin, not the
> most advanced automotive design at the time. When they started to build
> cars on their own accord they were technically very similar to the
> Austin products. I believe that  engines and gearboxes from both makes
> were interchangable in the beginning.
> However Toyota  produced cars of their own design in the thirties and
> there were others.
> Do not forget that there were considerable engineering skils well before
> the war. They produced some very advanced and feared warplanes and such.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Jack Feldman schreef:
>> The statement "Don't forget it was the Japanese that borrowed the Brit's
>> technology in the
>> 60's.... and through reverse engineering ... All things are possible..."
>> isn't exactly correct. Not much reverse engineering was necessary. Austin
>> Motors helped the start of the Japanese industry.
>>
>> My very first car was and Austin A40 Somerset. I loved the car, and sold
>> it
>> when I returned to the US. I have a couple of books about Austin, and the
>> books are clear that Austin shared technology with the Japanese.
>>
>> Who would have thought they would be a threat.
>>
>> Jack
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2590 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 12/28/09 08:16:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Dec 29 07:05:56 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 09:05:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>

Back in the early '90s, I was baffled one day when I opened my latest Safety 
Fast! (MG Car Club) magazine and saw a picture of a Miata in the Table of 
Contents.

Turns out one of the Miata's Japanese designers owned a TC--and therefore 
understood what a true sports car was like....


Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: "Patrick Yoas" <pyoas at yahoo.com>; "Healey Forum" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry


>I knew Bob Hall and his brother Jim back when they were first out of high
> school.  The article is correct about him liking British cars.  In the 
> group
> of guys that hung together there was at various times 100-4, 100-6,
> Spitfire, Sprite/Midgets, MGB, P1800 You get the idea.  He used the Lotus
> Elan as a design inspiration for the Miata.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 29 08:58:43 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 16:58:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com>
	<FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
Message-ID: <4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>

They already knew: Honda S500-S800
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


>
>
> Turns out one of the Miata's Japanese designers owned a TC--and 
> therefore understood what a true sports car was like....
>
>
> Sarah Carr
> BN1 in PA

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Tue Dec 29 10:14:28 2009
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 11:14:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com>
	<FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
	<4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <029c01ca88aa$62cc8970$28659c50$@net>

And let's not forget the Toyota 2000 GT. A little gem, and prior to the
240Z. 

Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 9:59 AM
To: Carr&Edwards
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry

They already knew: Honda S500-S800
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


>
>
> Turns out one of the Miata's Japanese designers owned a TC--and 
> therefore understood what a true sports car was like....
>
>
> Sarah Carr
> BN1 in PA
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as hgmiller3 at qwest.net

http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.119/2585 - Release Date: 12/29/09
01:47:00

From jtrifari at comcast.net  Tue Dec 29 10:53:36 2009
From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 09:53:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <c9b.449a4067.386b0724@aol.com>
References: <c9b.449a4067.386b0724@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ca88af$d91421b0$8b3c6510$@net>

Check out Mark Lambert in Nashville TN.  He made the switch some years back
in his BN7;  article appeared in Austin Healey Magazine in 1996 I think.
John Trifari  Golden Gate Austin Healey Club

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:18 PM
To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan

In a message dated 12/28/09 7:48:59 PM, healey.nut at gmail.com writes:


> The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
> compact motor for sure, not the same.
> 

The one that I saw, with the six-cylinder Nissan motor in the Healey, 
didn't look as if it was much smaller since it filled the engine bay just
about 
as completely, with the engine mounts in exactly the same place. All I know 
is what I saw, and reports I've heard of other swaps.
gary
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jtrifari at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 29 11:56:40 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:56:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <000c01ca88af$d91421b0$8b3c6510$@net>
Message-ID: <737849.56513.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here's Mark's car on the Nasty Boys site: 
http://modifiedhealeys.org/Photos/57Lambert/Lambert1.htm  IIRC that car
engendered quite a bit of comment in the club mags and the list when it first
appeared. 

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 12/29/09, John Trifari <jtrifari at comcast.net> wrote:

From: John Trifari <jtrifari at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
To: Editorgary at aol.com, healey.nut at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 12:53 PM

Check out Mark Lambert in Nashville TN.  He made the switch some years back
in his BN7;  article appeared in Austin Healey Magazine in 1996 I think.
John Trifari  Golden Gate Austin Healey Club

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:18 PM
To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan

In a message dated 12/28/09 7:48:59 PM, healey.nut at gmail.com writes:


> The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
> compact motor for sure, not the same.
>

The one that I saw, with the six-cylinder Nissan motor in the Healey,
didn't look as if it was much smaller since it filled the engine bay just
about
as completely, with the engine mounts in exactly the same place. All I know
is what I saw, and reports I've heard of other swaps.
gary
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jtrifari at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From scvc70 at epix.net  Tue Dec 29 12:55:17 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 14:55:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 seat back
Message-ID: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>

Many thanks to all who have responded off-list to my request for a seat-back
tracing -- we'll now be able to repair the DPO's butchery!

This list is a priceless resource.  Happy Healeying to all in 2010!

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 29 14:12:15 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 15:12:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1275 Engine timing and carbs
In-Reply-To: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>
References: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>
Message-ID: <000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net>

While trying to help a friend time the 1275 engine in his recently acquired
Bugeye, we could not see or feel any indication on the pulley indicating the
TDC notch.  We looked and felt around the entire circumference of the
pulley.
 
Does anyone have any suggestions what may have happened and how to correct
this?
 
Also, one of the HS2 carbs' piston needle binds up after centering the jet
and tightening the nut.  Loosening the nut allows the piston to fall with
the "clunk" sound.  However,  even with the nut lose the needle seems to be
sticking as upon acceleration of the engine, this piston does not raise
nearly as quickly as the other carb piston.  I assume that the needle is
bent and we should replace both the needles and jets in each carb.
 
Thanks.
  Ron

From pennell at cox.net  Tue Dec 29 15:10:51 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 17:10:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912281948r1903034m13d72f2816575b5f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091229171051.BJTTU.71787.imail@eastrmwml29>

Alan and others,

Was/Is there any weight savings with the 240 engine over the 3000 engine?  Is the 240 engine alum?

Keith Pennell

---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The 240 motor may fit in the Healey bay, but it is a smaller more
> compact motor for sure, not the same.
> 
> The Datsun 1500/1600 is the one that's a direct drop in for the MGA/MGB motor.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Dec 29 15:19:03 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 23:19:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 1275 Engine timing and carbs
In-Reply-To: <000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net>
References: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>
	<000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net>
Message-ID: <4B3A8057.7070104@chello.nl>

As it is not the original engine (later Healey/Sprite, Mini, Metro, 
Cooper?), the timing mark may be on the flywheel. Or perhaps the 
original pulley was replaced due to damage or not of the proper type for 
this application. Was the waterpump and/or dynamo-alternator changed?
If you cannot find any mark, just measure nr. 1 piston TDC accurately 
and make the mark yourself .
One way of doing that is to make an adaptor from a sparkplug to blow 
bubbles from soapy water. Inserta few drops of heavy oil on the piston 
to create a really good seal. Put the piston in TDC as well as you can, 
fit the adaptor, stretch a film of soapy water accross the opening and 
find the position the bubble is at its biggest.
That is TDC.
It does not sound like very sophisticated technology but it works, you 
do not need special tools apart from making up an adaptor from an old 
sparkplug and it is extremely accurate.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Ron Ray schreef:
> While trying to help a friend time the 1275 engine in his recently acquired
> Bugeye, we could not see or feel any indication on the pulley indicating the
> TDC notch.  We looked and felt around the entire circumference of the
> pulley.
>  
> Does anyone have any suggestions what may have happened and how to correct
> this?
>  
> Also, one of the HS2 carbs' piston needle binds up after centering the jet
> and tightening the nut.  Loosening the nut allows the piston to fall with
> the "clunk" sound.  However,  even with the nut lose the needle seems to be
> sticking as upon acceleration of the engine, this piston does not raise
> nearly as quickly as the other carb piston.  I assume that the needle is
> bent and we should replace both the needles and jets in each carb.
>  
> Thanks.
>   Ron
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.122/2591 - datum van uitgifte: 12/28/09 20:32:00

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Dec 29 15:48:34 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 17:48:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1275 Engine timing and carbs
In-Reply-To: <000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net>
References: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>
	<000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net>
Message-ID: <008201ca88d9$0d8018e0$28804aa0$@rr.com>

Ron, the 1275 crank pulley should have a small notch on the circumference on
the edge BEHIND the fan belt groove.  This location was probably selected by
the same folks who decided to put the timing degree reference on the bottom
of the engine.
If you do not find a TDC notch even there, then you'll have to re-establish
TDC and then make a permanent mark on the pulley in-line with the O mark on
the degree reference.

I made it a little more user-friendly by painting a white line on the front
face of the pulley damper, in line with the notch.

I would guess the carb needle is bent, but I've never had the symptoms on my
1275 so I'll leave a better answer to others. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
1973 MG Midget
Havelock, NC 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Ray
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 4:12 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 1275 Engine timing and carbs

While trying to help a friend time the 1275 engine in his recently acquired
Bugeye, we could not see or feel any indication on the pulley indicating the
TDC notch.  We looked and felt around the entire circumference of the
pulley.
 
Does anyone have any suggestions what may have happened and how to correct
this?
 
Also, one of the HS2 carbs' piston needle binds up after centering the jet
and tightening the nut.  Loosening the nut allows the piston to fall with
the "clunk" sound.  However,  even with the nut lose the needle seems to be
sticking as upon acceleration of the engine, this piston does not raise
nearly as quickly as the other carb piston.  I assume that the needle is
bent and we should replace both the needles and jets in each carb.
 
Thanks.
  Ron

From robertlarson at att.net  Tue Dec 29 16:52:50 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 18:52:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1275 Engine timing and carbs
In-Reply-To: <4B3A8057.7070104@chello.nl>
References: <A1CCB690164840B9A86BBEB872F40234@S0026273562>
	<000001ca88cb$991131e0$cb3395a0$@net> <4B3A8057.7070104@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4B3A9652.1050208@att.net>

I have an old tool very similar to this:

http://store.royalenfieldusa.com/top-dead-center-tdc-finder-tool

It has worked fine for me with motorcycles.

However, who ever came up with this bubble trick all I can say is,    
THAT'S CLEVER!!!

Thanks for sharing Kees.

Bob

Oudesluys wrote:
>
> One way of doing that is to make an adaptor from a sparkplug to blow 
> bubbles from soapy water. Inserta few drops of heavy oil on the piston 
> to create a really good seal. Put the piston in TDC as well as you 
> can, fit the adaptor, stretch a film of soapy water accross the 
> opening and find the position the bubble is at its biggest.
> That is TDC.
> It does not sound like very sophisticated technology but it works, you 
> do not need special tools apart from making up an adaptor from an old 
> sparkplug and it is extremely accurate.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 29 17:50:50 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 00:50:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 280Z motor in a 3000
Message-ID: <COL106-W650900C9CB5335292C567FC0790@phx.gbl>

In 1997 I put a Nissan 280Z motor and 5 speed in one of my 3000s.  I got the
idea from Mark Lambert who wrote an article about it, that appeared in
Chatter. I contacted him personally and purchased a how-to manual that he had
prepared after doing his own swap. You really need this info because of the
wiring harness and ECU and the fuel injection system. Dimensionally the motors
are similar. The motor mounts line right up with each other. The capillary
tube for the temperature gauge screws right into the thermostat housing on the
Z motor - same threads, can you believe it?  The engine is much lighter - at
least 150 to 200 pounds lighter, although I never weighed the Z motor and
tranny combo. But, the car sat a couple inches higher after I lowered the Z
motor down onto the mounts.
The problem with the swap is that you have to do it with the front shroud off
the car. The engine is on a slant and the intake manifold for the injection
system is quite large. Basically, you cannot install, or remove, the intake or
exhaust manifolds with the shroud in place.
I took the car apart after a few years to redo everything and haven't got it
back together yet. However, when I do, I will not use fuel injection or need
the ECU. I have manifolds off early 240 Z motors with SU carbs and also a
triple Mikuni setup (Japanese Webers).
I think the Nissan swap is much better than any V8 swap. I used a stock Healey
muffler and everyone thought the sound was the Healey 6 cylinder. The Nissan
motor is virtually indestructable. They can go 200,000-300,000 miles without a
rebuild - so I'm told. It will turn your Healey into a rocket. I can promise
you that!!!!!!
Richard Mayor

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Dec 29 18:28:56 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 20:28:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Parts Manual
Message-ID: <20091229.172944.23159.67517@mailpop01.dca.untd.com>

Some years back one of the, then, two Healey clubs, printed a copy of the
100 parts and, I believe, service manual. I want to say they were in a
green notebook or binder. If anyone has information or the manuals, can
you please contact me off the list. TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Love Spell
Click here to light up your life with a love spell!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=dAHibrD1CjnnsGLcxplNzwAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARwAAAAA=

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Dec 29 21:34:47 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:34:47 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com><a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com><FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
	<4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>

Donald (or maybe Geoffrey) said really bad things about the Honda S500-800 
in one of the Healey books they wrote in comparing it to the Sprite, but I 
have also read some fairly good reviews of the cars, pretty rare over here, 
never have seen one in the flesh let alone driven one.

Greg Lemon

" They already knew: Honda S500-S800
 Kees Oudesluijs"

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 23:09:16 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 01:09:16 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
Message-ID: <ceb.6ec761f3.386c488c@aol.com>

I often race with a fellow who drives an S800--the  car is fast!  See 
below--44 HP from 531 cc's is approximately 80 HP  per litre, whereas most 
British pushrod engines of the era were putting  out approximately 50.
BTW one of the things most MGA race engine builders do is to  use the oil 
pump spindle off of a Honda Fairlady (1600) in place of the MG  one--they are 
a bolt-in replacement and are much stronger and will survive  at 7000 rpm's 
whereas the stock ones often break at 6000.  I have one  in my Elva and bet 
that Gary Anderson does too in his MGA.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
"From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 
The S500 was the first production _car_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car)  
from _Honda_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda) , released in 1963, 
following  the _T360_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_T360)  truck into 
production by  four months. It was a larger displacement variant of the _S360_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S360)  roadster which, though  developed 
for sale in 1962, was never produced.
Like the S360, the S500 used a high-tech engine developed from Honda's 
_motorcycle_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle)   expertise. It was a 
_dual overhead cam_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_overhead_cam)  
_straight-4_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight-4)  with four _carburettors_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburettor)  and a 9500 rpm  redline. Originally 
intended to displace 492 cc, the production version was  531 cc and produced 
44 hp at 8000 rpm. 
The S500 used a 4-speed _manual transmission_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission)   with _chain drive_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_drive)  at the rear  wheels. A four-wheel _independent  suspension_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independent_suspension)  was also novel, with 
_torsion bars_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar)  in front and  diagonal 
_coilover_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coilover)  _shock  absorbers_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shock_absorber)  at the rear. 
The car was priced at $1,275 in 1963. A fiberglass _hardtop_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardtop)  was also available.  1,363 S500s were produced 
from October 1963 through September  1964.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 23:15:55 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:15:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com>
	<FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
	<4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl> <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912292215y1d12897em45491fdfbd1281d0@mail.gmail.com>

My mom had an S800 when we lived in Japan in the 60s when my dad was
flying out of Tachikawa.

For sure the Sprite was pound for pound a more reliable and faster
track car, but the S800 revved over 7500 rpms and sounded like a
Formula 1 racer on the highway.

My dad had one of the old bespoke coachbuilt Nissan Presidents.  He
much preferred that car, at 6'4" he couldn't fit in the S800.

The S800 had the most retarded rear end with an offset live axle &
chain drive to make room for the spare tire....

The engine on the other hand, was pure genius.

On 12/30/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> Donald (or maybe Geoffrey) said really bad things about the Honda S500-800
> in one of the Healey books they wrote in comparing it to the Sprite, but I
> have also read some fairly good reviews of the cars, pretty rare over here,
> never have seen one in the flesh let alone driven one.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> " They already knew: Honda S500-S800
>  Kees Oudesluijs"
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 23:24:51 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 01:24:51 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
Message-ID: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>

I am obviously getting old--the exhaust on my 100 Lemans is just  too loud, 
something I thought I would never say! 
 
I just got through installing a new Jensen MSR2007  AM/FM radio  complete 
with Sirius Radio receiver and Ipod input.  It has adequate  power--15 watts 
per channel and 4 good speakers yet I simply cannot enjoy  the music over 
the exhaust unless I turn the volume WAY up, and even still the  exhaust is 
still very obtrusive.
 
I have the Denis Welch tubular header/exhaust system which is 2" in  
diameter and wonder if anyone knows of a good muffler which will mate up to a 2"  
exhaust pipe.  I am willing to sacrifice a little performance for  being 
able to hear the music!  The exhaust system has been on the car since  about 
2002 so perhaps it has deteriorated slowly over the years.  It also  has its 
share of scrapes, etc. along the bottom so I don't feel it owes me  much.
 
Any recommendations appreciated. 
 
Best--Michael Oritt   

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 23:43:33 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:43:33 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com><a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com><FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
	<4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl> <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
Message-ID: <6F67034A-7C49-4636-9025-EFBE5FBC4E63@gmail.com>

Don't know about the S500, but we had S600s and S800s here.
The s600 was literally a motorcycle drivetrain fitted to a car body.  
Literally.
Chain drive to the rear wheels (not a tail shaft) and an aircooled  
engine that revved to 8 or 9,000 rpm. And very little torque.
The S800 had a tailshaft rather than a chain drive, and I think it was  
watercooled, but don't quote me on that. They were far inferior to a  
Sprite, very Spartan and basic (and that's far more Spartan than a  
spridget!!!!)

Sent from my iPhone

On 30/12/2009, at 3:34 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Donald (or maybe Geoffrey) said really bad things about the Honda  
> S500-800 in one of the Healey books they wrote in comparing it to  
> the Sprite, but I have also read some fairly good reviews of the  
> cars, pretty rare over here, never have seen one in the flesh let  
> alone driven one.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> " They already knew: Honda S500-S800
> Kees Oudesluijs"
> _____________

From coll44 at msn.com  Wed Dec 30 00:01:27 2009
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 02:01:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <20091229171051.BJTTU.71787.imail@eastrmwml29>
References: <ff59076c0912281948r1903034m13d72f2816575b5f@mail.gmail.com>,
	<20091229171051.BJTTU.71787.imail@eastrmwml29>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W194BBDB9217FDF64F4F034C9790@phx.gbl>

240Z head is aluminum, block is iron.  Surely some weight savings there.



Terry Coll

'64 BJ8

> Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 17:10:51 -0500
> From: pennell at cox.net
> To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
>
> Alan and others,
>
> Was/Is there any weight savings with the 240 engine over the 3000 engine? Is
the 240 engine alum?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ---- >
> You are subscribed as coll44 at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 00:31:01 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 02:31:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912292331y6ddc266ax678db4f643025778@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

Try your local muffler fitter - he should be able to help you find the
right silencer to fit up to your SS system.  I have the stock Bell
silencer - I love it...

Alan

On 12/30/09, Awgertoo at aol.com <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:
> I am obviously getting old--the exhaust on my 100 Lemans is just  too loud,
> something I thought I would never say!
>
> I just got through installing a new Jensen MSR2007  AM/FM radio  complete
> with Sirius Radio receiver and Ipod input.  It has adequate  power--15 watts
> per channel and 4 good speakers yet I simply cannot enjoy  the music over
> the exhaust unless I turn the volume WAY up, and even still the  exhaust is
> still very obtrusive.
>
> I have the Denis Welch tubular header/exhaust system which is 2" in
> diameter and wonder if anyone knows of a good muffler which will mate up to
> a 2"
> exhaust pipe.  I am willing to sacrifice a little performance for  being
> able to hear the music!  The exhaust system has been on the car since  about
> 2002 so perhaps it has deteriorated slowly over the years.  It also  has its
> share of scrapes, etc. along the bottom so I don't feel it owes me  much.
>
> Any recommendations appreciated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Dec 30 00:56:13 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:56:13 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0912292215y1d12897em45491fdfbd1281d0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com><a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com><FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562><4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl>
	<9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
	<ff59076c0912292215y1d12897em45491fdfbd1281d0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <845BE4A667A0426397513C43288607D8@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

I have had the pleasure of driving both the Honda S600 and S800. Both great
little cars.

In both, the 4-cylinder DOHC engines are jewels and will easily rev to
10,000rpm. At that speed I can't vouch for longevity, but the current Honda
S2000 will do the same and does last.

Both the S600 and S800 (we never got the S500 in Australia) had conventional
4-speed gearboxes, but the S600 was a carryon from Honda's motorcycle
background with twin chain drive to the rear end. The S800 had a normal
driveshaft and solid rear end with semi-eliptics.

I recall one duel we had with a MG Midget and I must say the S800 we were in
was far quicker, but the Midget handled well.

As a matter of interest Honda is one of the few automotive companies that
still has the fingerprints of its founder all over it. Mr Honda's successor
was Mr Kume who arrived in England in 1965 as a motor mechanic to assist Sir
Jack Brabham in his Formula 2 exploits. They had not a word of common
language between them, but Honda engines gave Black Jack the championship.

All the best for 2010.

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, 30 December 2009 5:16 PM
To: Greg Lemon; Oudesluys; Carr&Edwards; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry

My mom had an S800 when we lived in Japan in the 60s when my dad was
flying out of Tachikawa.

For sure the Sprite was pound for pound a more reliable and faster
track car, but the S800 revved over 7500 rpms and sounded like a
Formula 1 racer on the highway.

My dad had one of the old bespoke coachbuilt Nissan Presidents.  He
much preferred that car, at 6'4" he couldn't fit in the S800.

The S800 had the most retarded rear end with an offset live axle &
chain drive to make room for the spare tire....

The engine on the other hand, was pure genius.

On 12/30/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> Donald (or maybe Geoffrey) said really bad things about the Honda S500-800
> in one of the Healey books they wrote in comparing it to the Sprite, but I
> have also read some fairly good reviews of the cars, pretty rare over
here,
> never have seen one in the flesh let alone driven one.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> " They already knew: Honda S500-S800
>  Kees Oudesluijs"
 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Dec 30 01:22:37 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:22:37 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-W194BBDB9217FDF64F4F034C9790@phx.gbl>
References: <ff59076c0912281948r1903034m13d72f2816575b5f@mail.gmail.com>,
	<20091229171051.BJTTU.71787.imail@eastrmwml29>
	<BLU111-W194BBDB9217FDF64F4F034C9790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <55DBDD905EC1478494A53E4B3F6DCDA9@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

Yes that would have made a difference, but also the BMC C-series engine was
cast by gravity feed of molten iron into a sand casting, while the Nissan
engine would have been pressure cast with thinwall construction. 

Sort of like the huge weight difference when Ford introduced the legendary
pressure cast 260/289 V8.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TERRY COLL
Sent: Wednesday, 30 December 2009 6:01 PM
To: pennell at cox.net; healey.nut at gmail.com; editorgary at aol.com; austin healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan

240Z head is aluminum, block is iron.  Surely some weight savings there.



Terry Coll

'64 BJ8

> Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 17:10:51 -0500
> From: pennell at cox.net
> To: healey.nut at gmail.com; Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys to Japan
>
> Alan and others,
>
> Was/Is there any weight savings with the 240 engine over the 3000 engine?
Is
the 240 engine alum?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ---- >
> You are subscribed as coll44 at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 01:24:00 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 00:24:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
Message-ID: <173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>

You have it wrong. I removed the stereo to enjoy the engine music from the
tail pipe :)

On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 10:24 PM, <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:

> I am obviously getting old--the exhaust on my 100 Lemans is just  too loud,
> something I thought I would never say!
>
> I just got through installing a new Jensen MSR2007  AM/FM radio  complete
> with Sirius Radio receiver and Ipod input.  It has adequate  power--15
> watts
> per channel and 4 good speakers yet I simply cannot enjoy  the music over
> the exhaust unless I turn the volume WAY up, and even still the  exhaust is
> still very obtrusive.
>
> I have the Denis Welch tubular header/exhaust system which is 2" in
> diameter and wonder if anyone knows of a good muffler which will mate up to
> a 2"
> exhaust pipe.  I am willing to sacrifice a little performance for  being
> able to hear the music!  The exhaust system has been on the car since
>  about
> 2002 so perhaps it has deteriorated slowly over the years.  It also  has
> its
> share of scrapes, etc. along the bottom so I don't feel it owes me  much.
>
> Any recommendations appreciated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 02:50:11 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:50:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
	<173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912300150q2da2d959sb3de3a1ce5287618@mail.gmail.com>

I have to agree with Michael - spend more than 20 minutes on the freeway and
you will start damaging your hearing.  Keeping the cars quieter is a good
idea.  The stock silencers still give enough of a sporty note, even on my
BJ8.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 4:24 PM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> You have it wrong. I removed the stereo to enjoy the engine music from the
> tail pipe :)
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 10:24 PM, <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > I am obviously getting old--the exhaust on my 100 Lemans is just  too
> loud,
> > something I thought I would never say!
> >
> > I just got through installing a new Jensen MSR2007  AM/FM radio  complete
> > with Sirius Radio receiver and Ipod input.  It has adequate  power--15
> > watts
> > per channel and 4 good speakers yet I simply cannot enjoy  the music over
> > the exhaust unless I turn the volume WAY up, and even still the  exhaust
> is
> > still very obtrusive.
> >
> > I have the Denis Welch tubular header/exhaust system which is 2" in
> > diameter and wonder if anyone knows of a good muffler which will mate up
> to
> > a 2"
> > exhaust pipe.  I am willing to sacrifice a little performance for  being
> > able to hear the music!  The exhaust system has been on the car since
> >  about
> > 2002 so perhaps it has deteriorated slowly over the years.  It also  has
> > its
> > share of scrapes, etc. along the bottom so I don't feel it owes me  much.
> >
> > Any recommendations appreciated.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 30 03:48:53 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:48:53 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
	<173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6AAE97B75B22447DB0324BBF34BE406A@user8634b3d69b>

Here in the UK a loud vehicle exhaust sound in the street is generally seen 
as a bad sign.  It conjures up images of forever being stopped by the 
Police, of potentially dangerous youth involvement (ie drugs, muggings, 
thefts etc), of being a flash boy racer or fast uncontrolled driving.  It is 
always a source of amusement to read posts where having a loud exhaust note 
is a requisite.  Seeing some of the exhaust tail pipes that are larger than 
the engine cylinder bore is also an amusing sight provided by 'yoof' who 
cruise around in rather loud Jap cars.  Bling rules in the street parade!
Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is 
wonderful and despite living across town and 4 miles away from what was my 
nearest car tuning centre I could still hear when they had a 'good' motor on 
the rolling road.  This was normally a single seat racecar on the third set 
of rollers (Harry's set)that read up to 600bhp and if doing nothing else I'd 
pop down there to see what it was.

A loud exhaust note does not equate to the best power output and my 
recommendation would be to thoroughly research exhaust tuning, especially 
tuned length savaging systems for LBCs.

Guy R Day



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3 at gmail.com>
To: <Awgertoo at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100


> You have it wrong. I removed the stereo to enjoy the engine music from the
> tail pipe :)
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 10:24 PM, <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I am obviously getting old--the exhaust on my 100 Lemans is just  too 
>> loud,
>> something I thought I would never say!
>>
>> I just got through installing a new Jensen MSR2007  AM/FM radio  complete
>> with Sirius Radio receiver and Ipod input.  It has adequate  power--15 
>> watts per channel and 4 good speakers yet I simply cannot enjoy  the 
>> music over the exhaust unless I turn the volume WAY up, and even still 
>> the  exhaust is still very obtrusive.
>>
>> I have the Denis Welch tubular header/exhaust system which is 2" in 
>> diameter and wonder if anyone knows of a good muffler which will mate up 
>> to a 2"
>> exhaust pipe.  I am willing to sacrifice a little performance for  being 
>> able to hear the music!  The exhaust system has been on the car since 
>> about
>> 2002 so perhaps it has deteriorated slowly over the years.  It also  has 
>> its share of scrapes, etc. along the bottom so I don't feel it owes me 
>> much.
>>
>> Any recommendations appreciated.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Dec 30 06:54:25 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:54:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <6F67034A-7C49-4636-9025-EFBE5FBC4E63@gmail.com>
References: <71390.56649.qm@web112514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><715873.94281.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com><a3b984e10912282026wb432808o3339a93df52932f3@mail.gmail.com><FF7EC2645A6241EEAB5919CFE781DF87@S0026273562>
	<4B3A2733.5060303@chello.nl> <9FC6DB41024C4E0481885E9FE36C54CE@GregPC>
	<6F67034A-7C49-4636-9025-EFBE5FBC4E63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B3B5B91.8010801@chello.nl>

Chris, I cannot agree on that. There was no way a Sprite could compete 
with the S800. OK, it was a bit spartan, but so was the original Sprite. 
Later Sprites and Midgets had a different suspension set up that was a 
lot more compliant
The Honda watercooled engine was a gem which could take 10.000rpm quite 
easily if balanced and was very tunable. On the track it ran rings 
around the Sprite with its fairly agricultural engine.
They were quite popular track cars here at the time together with BMWs, 
DKWs, Abarths, Coopers, Glas', Alfettas etc.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Don't know about the S500, but we had S600s and S800s here.
> The s600 was literally a motorcycle drivetrain fitted to a car body. 
> Literally.
> Chain drive to the rear wheels (not a tail shaft) and an aircooled 
> engine that revved to 8 or 9,000 rpm. And very little torque.
> The S800 had a tailshaft rather than a chain drive, and I think it was 
> watercooled, but don't quote me on that. They were far inferior to a 
> Sprite, very Spartan and basic (and that's far more Spartan than a 
> spridget!!!!)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 30/12/2009, at 3:34 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Donald (or maybe Geoffrey) said really bad things about the Honda 
>> S500-800 in one of the Healey books they wrote in comparing it to the 
>> Sprite, but I have also read some fairly good reviews of the cars, 
>> pretty rare over here, never have seen one in the flesh let alone 
>> driven one.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>>
>> " They already knew: Honda S500-S800
>> Kees Oudesluijs"
>> _____________
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com 
> Versie: 9.0.722 / Virusdatabase: 270.14.123/2593 - datum van uitgifte: 12/29/09 20:14:00

From 57healey at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 09:35:00 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:35:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas Criagslist
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0912300835g69c59ccdi367724728081d2bb@mail.gmail.com>

This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
just forwarding it on

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html

1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8
Same owner since 1982, stored in dry Texas garage since 1982, very
solid, straight BJ-8, Minor rust in the toe boards, battery box and
section of rear fender otherwise remarkably solid, beautiful frame and
chassis, solid inner and outer rockers, nice wheelhouses etc.. Please
look at all detailed pictures of these areas to appreciate the car.
Original paint color was Healey Blue, repainted to present color in
late '70's, Passenger side is red primer, interior is original and is
dark blue, very complete correct BJ-8 with no known missing parts,
engine starts easily and runs well, strong oil pressure, all gauges
work, clutch hydraulics work well, transmission shifts good, brakes
work but are weak. This is a stellar start for a restoration, odometer
shows 64,347 miles and is believed to be actual. numbers on chassis
tag are 3175BJ8 / 70644 Car No./VIN# is HBJ8L / 25760. Worldwide
Shipping is Available.
$26,800.00
Please contact Dennis
972-442-6189 x226

-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 10:28:36 2009
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 09:28:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <6F67034A-7C49-4636-9025-EFBE5FBC4E63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <578462.16015.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I don't know if it was an S500 or an S600s but I saw one in the Hudson Valley a couple of months ago. It was shabby yellow with the roof chopped off and a rollbar added. Wheels looked smaller than those on the classic Mini. I asked the owner to contact me if he ever wanted to sell. Aside from a Berkley, I can't think of any smaller car.
Happy New Year to All
Best
JK
NYC
 
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>

> Don't know about the S500, but we had
> S600s and S800s here.
> The s600 was literally a motorcycle drivetrain fitted to a
> car body. Literally.
> Chain drive to the rear wheels (not a tail shaft) and an
> aircooled engine that revved to 8 or 9,000 rpm. And very
> little torque.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 11:14:19 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:14:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
Message-ID: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas Criagslist
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM

This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
just forwarding it on

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html

From linsley46 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 12:05:24 2009
From: linsley46 at gmail.com (John McElrath)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:05:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] new question
Message-ID: <d3c477d10912301105o6d401669m82939babdb9e445c@mail.gmail.com>

Rich - I am going to order the wheels and tires for my car in the next
couple of weeks but I am a little confused by the Guidelines.  One place
says

*Acceptable Tire Sizes:*

*Cross-ply 5.90 x 15 (some RS5s were marked 5.50/5.90x15)*

*Radial 165 x 15*

In another section it says

*(For example, a car with 165x15 tires would receive a 5-point deduction...*

When I look at the tire sites I see the Roadspeeds that meet the guideline
although they are 590s..  The Michelins all seem to be 165s.  I have found a
Pirellie Cinturato at 165 as well.  The question is if I use the radial do I
get a 5 point deduction?   As for Mitchlin's I can find a 145 X but all of
the other tires have XZX or some other direvitive.  If I use a Mitchlin XZX
(165) or the Pirellie Cinturato (again 165) would that be a 5 point
deduction?

I am also looking for the source for the rubber retaining rings that hold
the wires to the front turn signal housings.  I have not been able to find
them and would like to add them to the car.  I placed an order with
MacGregor for some parts so we will see how that goes.

Hope you had a wonderful Christmas and have a very Happy New Year.

John

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 12:32:22 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:32:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>

Yes, but he states that it was Healey Blue originally.

It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They seem to be snapped
up pretty quick. I wonder if he knows the rarity?

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com









On Dec 30, 2009, at 1:14 PM, HealeyRick wrote:

> I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
>
> This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
> just forwarding it on
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 12:38:57 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:38:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1297294320.4018061262201937541.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

"... interior is original and is dark blue ..." 

Except, maybe, for the tuck-and-roll rear seat back. 


bs 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination. 

Rick 



This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner, 
just forwarding it on 

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Dec 30 13:00:41 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:00:41 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091230140041.TOFWX.44315.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Is the rear seat back original??  Certainly not like my 65.  Never seen this color blue.


---- HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas Criagslist
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM

This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
just forwarding it on

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 30 13:11:26 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 12:11:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <6AAE97B75B22447DB0324BBF34BE406A@user8634b3d69b>
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
	<173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
	<6AAE97B75B22447DB0324BBF34BE406A@user8634b3d69b>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912301211w2a4de20eyef42488292b19c70@mail.gmail.com>

You definitely would not like my Harley Davidson with the aftermarket
exhaust then Guy.  It sets off car alarms at 100 feet when I really get on
it, but I wear ear plugs.  The ear plugs are more for the wind noise instead
of the noise behind me.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:48 AM, Guy R Day <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Here in the UK a loud vehicle exhaust sound in the street is generally seen
> as a bad sign.  It conjures up images of forever being stopped by the
> Police, of potentially dangerous youth involvement (ie drugs, muggings,
> thefts etc), of being a flash boy racer or fast uncontrolled driving.  It is
> always a source of amusement to read posts where having a loud exhaust note
> is a requisite.  Seeing some of the exhaust tail pipes that are larger than
> the engine cylinder bore is also an amusing sight provided by 'yoof' who
> cruise around in rather loud Jap cars.  Bling rules in the street parade!
> Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is
> wonderful and despite living across town and 4 miles away from what was my
> nearest car tuning centre I could still hear when they had a 'good' motor on
> the rolling road.  This was normally a single seat racecar on the third set
> of rollers (Harry's set)that read up to 600bhp and if doing nothing else I'd
> pop down there to see what it was.
>
> A loud exhaust note does not equate to the best power output and my
> recommendation would be to thoroughly research exhaust tuning, especially
> tuned length savaging systems for LBCs.
>
> Guy R Day

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 13:44:18 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:44:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack
Message-ID: <SNT103-W4B79A95ECFE10420C0A0BD5790@phx.gbl>

Hi Guys



Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
but I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
more like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)



Silly thing is I have one identical to this!



cheers Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Got more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
 http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 13:47:42 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:47:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
Message-ID: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>

Hi Guys



ebay item number : 230415824548

Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
but I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
more like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)

Silly thing is I have one identical to this!

cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Got more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
 http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Dec 30 14:36:05 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 16:36:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
References: <20091230140041.TOFWX.44315.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
Message-ID: <B963E67C860F4823A8579D755DA791E3@LIFEBOOK>

I just looked over all the pictures of this car pretty carefully. The idiot 
who sprayed that red paint all over it should have been shot.
The car appears to be a very solid unblemished car in most areas. original 
unique little Phase 1 details are intact, including black waher bottle 
bracket, intact console with original cubby box.
The only really bad area seems to be under the battery, with what looks like 
some serious corrosion right through the floor and rear right side of the 
trunk.
The rear interior panel seems to be completely replaced with that horrible 
pleated vinyl thing, not at all original, for sure.
Somebody's gone with the cheaper earlier exhaust system rather than the 
proper BJ8 system.
Looks like owner number one kept and protected the car from new for a long 
time, while owner number two somehow tried to keep it on the road with cheap 
paint, exhaust, etc.
The car certainly needs a complete ground up, but it appears that metal wise 
at least, it should be pretty straight forward. This could be the makings of 
a really nice and correct Healey Blue Phase 1 BJ8.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas 
Criagslist


> Is the rear seat back original??  Certainly not like my 65.  Never seen 
> this color blue.
>
>
> ---- HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas 
> Criagslist
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
>
> This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
> just forwarding it on
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 14:44:51 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:44:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
References: <722301.94870.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B3BC9D3.2000201@comcast.net>

<< It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They
seem to be snapped up pretty quick.
I wonder if he knows the rarity? >>

Looks like a Dealer phone # to me ?!?

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 14:45:38 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 16:45:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
References: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49BDEB4B-2140-43E5-AFD4-9368DE43351D@gmail.com>

Steve, just out of curiosity, how many Phase I do you have in the Registry?

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
> Date: December 30, 2009 2:32:22 PM EST
> To: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist
>
> Yes, but he states that it was Healey Blue originally.
>
> It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They seem to be
snapped
> up pretty quick. I wonder if he knows the rarity?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 30, 2009, at 1:14 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
>> I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
>> Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
> Criagslist
>> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
>>
>> This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
>> just forwarding it on
>>
>> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 14:46:02 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:46:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <1297294320.4018061262201937541.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1297294320.4018061262201937541.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4B3BCA1A.30207@comcast.net>

<< Except, maybe, for the tuck-and-roll rear seat back. >>

And it looks like [to me] a BJ-7 backrest ?!?

Ed

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Dec 30 15:03:40 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:03:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring 1960
In-Reply-To: <6FE3703D-2881-41DD-9C7B-378D177FD82B@cox.net>
References: <8CC1F2DA73866DD-2A50-70D2@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<4ADD63EB.7010204@chello.nl>
	<6FE3703D-2881-41DD-9C7B-378D177FD82B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <E3A14622-F2CD-453F-85A2-F7829D55A877@cox.net>

I've always enjoyed the cars that the Healey team raced at Sebring in  
1960 (the UJB cars) and I recently found the poster from the event and  
am excited that not only is it from that important event, but it is  
(IMHO) one of the coolest looking vintage race posters I've seen. I  
now have an original framed in my son's room.

See it here:

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/pics/sebring_1960.jpg

Wilko
San Diego		

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Dec 30 15:12:16 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:12:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
References: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E7848E69A201493F86EF4F49E9F47976@LIFEBOOK>

You're absolutely right, Andy. This is not for a Healey.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:47 PM
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number


> Hi Guys
>
>
>
> ebay item number : 230415824548
>
> Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the 
> bj's
> but I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
> more like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)
>
> Silly thing is I have one identical to this!
>
> cheers Andy
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Got more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 15:12:27 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:12:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on ebay
References: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <175CD73D-5E3E-4483-A9C5-F6E2BDBBCF10@gmail.com>

If anyone is interested, it has popped up on ebay also with more pictures.
Item # 170426017577

Randy

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
> Date: December 30, 2009 2:32:22 PM EST
> To: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist
>
> Yes, but he states that it was Healey Blue originally.
>
> It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They seem to be
snapped
> up pretty quick. I wonder if he knows the rarity?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 30, 2009, at 1:14 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
>> I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>>
>> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
>> Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
> Criagslist
>> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
>>
>> This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
>> just forwarding it on
>>
>> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Dec 30 15:16:24 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912301211w2a4de20eyef42488292b19c70@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091230161624.TWAAB.47316.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

OK----here goes.  You will just have to hate me, but the motorcycle noise such as straight pipes, no mufflers, etc are one of THE most annoying things out there.  It is beyond me why MANY riders have zero concern for others when they drive around like that.  I've actually had to cover my ears when some biker with no mufflers passes.  It literally hurts the ears.  

Count me as one who is not impressed by it.

Off my soap box now.

tom

---- "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: 

=============
You definitely would not like my Harley Davidson with the aftermarket
exhaust then Guy.  It sets off car alarms at 100 feet when I really get on
it, but I wear ear plugs.  The ear plugs are more for the wind noise instead
of the noise behind me.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:48 AM, Guy R Day <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Here in the UK a loud vehicle exhaust sound in the street is generally seen
> as a bad sign.  It conjures up images of forever being stopped by the
> Police, of potentially dangerous youth involvement (ie drugs, muggings,
> thefts etc), of being a flash boy racer or fast uncontrolled driving.  It is
> always a source of amusement to read posts where having a loud exhaust note
> is a requisite.  Seeing some of the exhaust tail pipes that are larger than
> the engine cylinder bore is also an amusing sight provided by 'yoof' who
> cruise around in rather loud Jap cars.  Bling rules in the street parade!
> Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is
> wonderful and despite living across town and 4 miles away from what was my
> nearest car tuning centre I could still hear when they had a 'good' motor on
> the rolling road.  This was normally a single seat racecar on the third set
> of rollers (Harry's set)that read up to 600bhp and if doing nothing else I'd
> pop down there to see what it was.
>
> A loud exhaust note does not equate to the best power output and my
> recommendation would be to thoroughly research exhaust tuning, especially
> tuned length savaging systems for LBCs.
>
> Guy R Day
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Wed Dec 30 15:16:06 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:16:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC57B4D0CCD709-1828-493C2@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>

It is identical to mine and I'm the original owner of my '67 BJ8.  It came in
a black bag with a solid steel bar stock handle.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Dec 30, 2009 3:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number


Hi Guys

ebay item number : 230415824548
Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
ut I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
ore like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)
Silly thing is I have one identical to this!
cheers Andy

________________________________________________________________
ot more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/
Healeys at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Dec 30 15:21:22 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:21:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091230162122.6TWTT.47399.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Wouldn't fit my 66 E-Type.  The original E jack is a rachet-type, "fan" looking with a small square piece on top that mates with the smaller square piece on the car.

tom

---- andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Hi Guys



ebay item number : 230415824548

Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
but I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
more like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)

Silly thing is I have one identical to this!

cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Got more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
 http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Dec 30 15:32:12 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:32:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <49BDEB4B-2140-43E5-AFD4-9368DE43351D@gmail.com>
References: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
	<49BDEB4B-2140-43E5-AFD4-9368DE43351D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003001ca899f$ee97c690$cbc753b0$@rr.com>

552 total Phase 1 cars (chassis numbers from 25315 through 25704, inclusive)
55 right-hand drive
416 left-hand drive
81 where it is not recorded whether the car is left-hand or right-hand drive
(most of these are in countries outside the USA and where I only have access
to the chassis number, not the complete VIN).
 
Of the 552, four are positively known to have been scrapped.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
 
From: Randy Hicks [mailto:Healey100M at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 4:46 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Fwd: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist
 
Steve, just out of curiosity, how many Phase I do you have in the Registry?
 
Randy
 
Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
 
 
Begin forwarded message:



From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Date: December 30, 2009 2:32:22 PM EST
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist
 
Yes, but he states that it was Healey Blue originally.

It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They seem to be snapped
up pretty quick. I wonder if he knows the rarity?

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com









On Dec 30, 2009, at 1:14 PM, HealeyRick wrote:



I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
 
Rick
 
 
 
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
 
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
 
From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
Criagslist


To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
 
This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
just forwarding it on
 
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
 
http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 15:36:17 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:36:17 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
Message-ID: <49e7.a377e64.386d2fe1@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2009 2:51:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jackson_krall at yahoo.com writes:

Aside  from a Berkley, I can't think of any smaller car.
--------------------------------------------------


How about a Cyclops?
 
Best--Michael Oritt

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 15:48:03 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:48:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <B963E67C860F4823A8579D755DA791E3@LIFEBOOK>
References: <20091230140041.TOFWX.44315.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<B963E67C860F4823A8579D755DA791E3@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <761F2DB5-2837-4364-8274-154EB6CD47AA@gmail.com>

For $26.8K?

Randy


On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:36 PM, Rich C wrote:

> The car certainly needs a complete ground up, but it appears that metal wise
at least, it should be pretty straight forward. This could be the makings of a
really nice and correct Healey Blue Phase 1 BJ8.

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 16:11:45 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:11:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <8CC57B4D0CCD709-1828-493C2@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>,
	<8CC57B4D0CCD709-1828-493C2@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W6E3FE66C98C98D3B7F131D5790@phx.gbl>

Thanks Larry, thats 2 bj8's with the same jack, no-one seems to know if this
type of LJ225 was used on any other car, here's some pic's of the others
types, but not a match for the ones we have. Quite a few people seem to thing
its a bj8 jack? Shame Rich agrees with the others who have told me its not
correct, he's normally right! Perhaps yours being from new discounts the
theory.



http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm



cheers Andy



To: ampole at hotmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:16:06 -0500
From: bighealey3k at aim.com


It is identical to mine and I'm the original owner of my '67 BJ8.  It came in
a black bag with a solid steel bar stock handle.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Dec 30, 2009 3:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number


Hi Guys



ebay item number : 230415824548

Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
but I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
more like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)

Silly thing is I have one identical to this!

cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Got more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
 http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com

http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Have more than one Hotmail account? Link them together to easily access both
 http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Dec 30 16:19:28 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:19:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
References: <20091230140041.TOFWX.44315.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<B963E67C860F4823A8579D755DA791E3@LIFEBOOK>
	<761F2DB5-2837-4364-8274-154EB6CD47AA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DA6601DFCDD2483BA706EFB49CE23EE2@LIFEBOOK>

I didn't say I agreed with the price. On the other hand I can see thousands 
saved on what won't be required metal wise.

Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>; "HealeyRick" 
<healeyrick at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas 
Criagslist


For $26.8K?

Randy


On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:36 PM, Rich C wrote:

> The car certainly needs a complete ground up, but it appears that metal 
> wise at least, it should be pretty straight forward. This could be the 
> makings of a really nice and correct Healey Blue Phase 1 BJ8.

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 30 16:30:48 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:30:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <DA6601DFCDD2483BA706EFB49CE23EE2@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <269136.67121.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Remember guys, the silly season of "How Much Is This Healey Worth?" doesn't officially begin until after New Year's when the B-J auction is less than a month away.

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas Criagslist
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Cc: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>, "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 6:19 PM

I didn't say I agreed with the price. On the other hand I can see thousands saved on what won't be required metal wise.

Rich
----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>; "HealeyRick" <healeyrick at yahoo.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas Criagslist


For $26.8K?

Randy


On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:36 PM, Rich C wrote:

> The car certainly needs a complete ground up, but it appears that metal wise at least, it should be pretty straight forward. This could be the makings of a really nice and correct Healey Blue Phase 1 BJ8.

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 16:36:19 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:36:19 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
Message-ID: <5514.80f39d6.386d3df3@aol.com>

I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking they 
 are simply an extra set of balls.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
--------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 12/30/2009 6:27:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tomfelts at windstream.net writes:

the  motorcycle noise such as straight pipes, no mufflers,  etc

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 16:39:59 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:39:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
 Criagslist
In-Reply-To: <003001ca899f$ee97c690$cbc753b0$@rr.com>
References: <F2A060F3-6C1F-47F1-892D-034D04F8EAFC@gmail.com>
	<49BDEB4B-2140-43E5-AFD4-9368DE43351D@gmail.com>
	<003001ca899f$ee97c690$cbc753b0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <D024D152-1441-4FA8-9EF3-3BF9E5054526@gmail.com>

Are Registries great or what?????   :-)

Randy


On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:32 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:

> 552 total Phase 1 cars (chassis numbers from 25315 through 25704,
inclusive)
> 55 right-hand drive
> 416 left-hand drive
> 81 where it is not recorded whether the car is left-hand or right-hand
drive
> (most of these are in countries outside the USA and where I only have
access
> to the chassis number, not the complete VIN).
>
> Of the 552, four are positively known to have been scrapped.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> From: Randy Hicks [mailto:Healey100M at gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 4:46 PM
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Fwd: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
> Criagslist
>
> Steve, just out of curiosity, how many Phase I do you have in the Registry?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>
>
> From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
> Date: December 30, 2009 2:32:22 PM EST
> To: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
> Criagslist
>
> Yes, but he states that it was Healey Blue originally.
>
> It is however, one of only 1390 Phase I BJ8's built. They seem to be
snapped
> up pretty quick. I wonder if he knows the rarity?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 30, 2009, at 1:14 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
>
>
> I would call that a non-factory exterior/interior color combination.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8 for sale on Dallas
> Criagslist
>
>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
>
> This just posted on Dallas Craigslist, I don't know the car or owner,
> just forwarding it on
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1530379456.html
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grday at btinternet.com  Wed Dec 30 16:51:07 2009
From: grday at btinternet.com (Guy R Day)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:51:07 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
	<173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
	<6AAE97B75B22447DB0324BBF34BE406A@user8634b3d69b>
	<d49b03130912301211w2a4de20eyef42488292b19c70@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <192490145E9649479B4EBD0CD392B726@user8634b3d69b>

Hi Mike,
<snip> Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is
wonderful....  <snip>  Are you saying yours isn't?

Getting stopped by the traffic cops every time you pass them (that is if you
can find a traffic cop over hear nowadays!) and getting a ticket may appeal to
your sense of humour but I think the time spent off the road until my licence
was returned by the Courts combined with the higher insurance costs may deter
me.  We also have a wonderful thing called the VDRS - the Vehicle Defect
Rectification Scheme that stops you using the vehicle until it is legal in
Police and/or Ministry eyes.  If you get a couple of those your vehicle is
confiscated anyway and you are left stood at the side of the road.


All the best,

Guy

ps my post should have read scavaging systems for LBCs, not savaging systems
for LBCs.

  ----- Original Message -----
  Cc: Austin Healey
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 8:11 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100


  You definitely would not like my Harley Davidson with the aftermarket
exhaust then Guy.  It sets off car alarms at 100 feet when I really get on it,
but I wear ear plugs.  The ear plugs are more for the wind noise instead of
the noise behind me.
  Mike MacLean
  56 BN2
  60 AN5
  02 Heritage Springer


  On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:48 AM, Guy R Day <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

    Here in the UK a loud vehicle exhaust sound in the street is generally
seen as a bad sign.  It conjures up images of forever being stopped by the
Police, of potentially dangerous youth involvement (ie drugs, muggings, thefts
etc), of being a flash boy racer or fast uncontrolled driving.  It is always a
source of amusement to read posts where having a loud exhaust note is a
requisite.  Seeing some of the exhaust tail pipes that are larger than the
engine cylinder bore is also an amusing sight provided by 'yoof' who cruise
around in rather loud Jap cars.  Bling rules in the street parade!
    Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is
wonderful and despite living across town and 4 miles away from what was my
nearest car tuning centre I could still hear when they had a 'good' motor on
the rolling road.  This was normally a single seat racecar on the third set of
rollers (Harry's set)that read up to 600bhp and if doing nothing else I'd pop
down there to see what it was.

    A loud exhaust note does not equate to the best power output and my
recommendation would be to thoroughly research exhaust tuning, especially
tuned length savaging systems for LBCs.

    Guy R Day

From dwflagg at juno.com  Wed Dec 30 17:53:08 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:53:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SU Float Lid Nut
Message-ID: <20091230.165333.10765.68357@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>

Does anyone know the thread size for the SU float lid nut? TIA

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Diet Help
Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=ZiDghraHXIsYK8UgIpEDBAAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Dec 30 18:14:07 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:14:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <5514.80f39d6.386d3df3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>

Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".


---- awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 

=============
 
I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking they 
 are simply an extra set of balls.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
--------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 12/30/2009 6:27:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tomfelts at windstream.net writes:

the  motorcycle noise such as straight pipes, no mufflers,  etc

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 18:42:02 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:42:02 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
Message-ID: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2009 7:59:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
grday at btinternet.com writes:

Please  do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note  is
wonderful....  <snip>  Are you saying yours  isn't?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------


Yes, I think that when I installed the whole system--the AL head, the  
tubular manifold and the DW exhaust it sounded better than it does now.  It  was 
always "loud" but now there is just too much going on--an unpleasant hollow 
 raspiness and a LOT of "loud".  
 
It is of course impossible for me to quantitatively compare what the "loud" 
 of 2002 is compared to the "loud" of 2009--perhaps some of it reflects a  
change of taste on my part, but bottom-line it is my car and I want it to be 
 the way I want it to be.  BTW in 2002 I did not have a hardtop  whereas 
now I do--the hardtop definitely cuts down on noise in general and  increases 
comfort--perhaps another reflection on some personal change--but the  "loud" 
is an unpleasant "blatting" that prevents my enjoying music at  revs unless 
I play it all the way up, and then when I come down to  lower speeds I must 
turn down the audio.
 
I'm not looking for perfection, just a more pleasant tone.  The  exhaust 
tone of my wife's BN7--very stock and also with a hardtop--is that  classic 
Healey sweet tone.  I don't think people have  historically admired the Healey 
exhaust note because it was loud but rather  because it was sweet, if a bit 
loud.
 
I'll keep looking--thanks all for the input.
 
Best--Michael  Oritt        

From edriver at sasktel.net  Wed Dec 30 19:38:39 2009
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:38:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
Message-ID: <4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>

alway up for it Tom?

Tom Felts wrote:
> Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".
>
>
> ---- awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 
>
> =============
>  
> I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking they 
>  are simply an extra set of balls.
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt
> --------------------------------------------
>  
> In a message dated 12/30/2009 6:27:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> tomfelts at windstream.net writes:
>
> the  motorcycle noise such as straight pipes, no mufflers,  etc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey3k at aim.com  Wed Dec 30 19:53:35 2009
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (bighealey3k at aim.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:53:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W6E3FE66C98C98D3B7F131D5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC57DB93DF3A42-3784-1AA30@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>

Andy,  On second look at the jack on Ebay, I didn't see the second image
showing the jack handle socket that is not correct for my jack.  My jack is
like the new jack in image #44 in your link
http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm.  Is the jack on Ebay fully
retracted (as mentioned in image #48)?  Mine retracts fully as shown in #44.
Sorry about the confusion.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: bighealey3k at aim.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Dec 30, 2009 6:11 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number


Thanks Larry, thats 2 bj8's with the same jack, no-one seems to know if this
type of LJ225 was used on any other car, here's some pic's of the others
types, but not a match for the ones we have. Quite a few people seem to thing
its a bj8 jack? Shame Rich agrees with the others who have told me its not
correct, he's normally right! Perhaps yours being from new discounts the
theory.

http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm

cheers Andy

To: ampole at hotmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:16:06 -0500
From: bighealey3k at aim.com


It is identical to mine and I'm the original owner of my '67 BJ8.  It came in
a black bag with a solid steel bar stock handle.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Dec 30, 2009 3:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number


Hi Guys

ebay item number : 230415824548
Anyone know what this jack is off? the seller seems to think its for the bj's
ut I thought they had a strengthening collar and not a gusset (this looks
ore like an e-type with the gusset, but the wrong pad on top?)
Silly thing is I have one identical to this!
cheers Andy

________________________________________________________________
ot more than one Hotmail account? Save time by linking them together
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/
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You are subscribed as bighealey3k at aim.com
http://www.team.net/archive


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From 63ahbj7 at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 20:18:06 2009
From: 63ahbj7 at comcast.net (63ahbj7)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:18:06 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>
References: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B3C17EE.8000100@comcast.net>

Does system exit the rear of somewhere on the side,
Michael ??

Is your snail mail addy as per Membership Book ??

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

From acmiller at mhcable.com  Wed Dec 30 20:21:30 2009
From: acmiller at mhcable.com (allen c miller jr)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 22:21:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles
Message-ID: <96E4E06E60CB4D0294869747FB295E6A@ACM030>

have heard a lot about big Healey stub axles showing latent flaws when tested.
do you have them magnafluxed or xrayed? also, if magnafluxed, does
shot-peening seal the cracks so they cannot be properly visualized (as i was
told by someone who who restores healeys)? if so, is there an easy alternative
to removing paint and leaving the cracks open? lastly, can you rely on
micrometer measurements at right angles to determine whether there is wear in
the bronze bushings, or is there another method to check for kingpin laxity?
am going to race a bn2, so i want to take extra precautions.

thanks. allen miller

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 20:34:54 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 22:34:54 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Hartop noise
Message-ID: <76ba.3ad3d4e4.386d75de@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2009 10:13:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
britishcars at shaw.ca writes:

Hi Michael,

Michael's  comment...."the hardtop definitely cuts down on noise in general 
and   increases 
comfort" caught my attention.

I've been thinking  about a hardtop for quite some time but am nervous that 
it will INCREASE the  interior noise.   While you get increased wind noise 
with the top  down, I think that the mechanical noise of the car is quiter 
with the top down  than with the soft-top up.  So, I assumed that with a 
hardtop, the  interior noise would also be louder.

Am in  incorrect?   Is the car quieter with a hardtop?  In particular  from 
a mechanical and exhaust point of  view.

Paul
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paul--
 
I can only give you my personal experience with both my 100 and my  wife's 
3000:  With the hardtop on noise of all kinds--mechanical,  wind, exhaust, 
etc.--is definitely reduced and the discomfort caused  by wind buffeting and 
long hours in the sun is also a  memory.  It is not only quieter but more 
comfortable with the hardtop  mounted.  
 
And don't forget that the hardtops' mountings are semi-permanent (or  less) 
and easily removed/remounted--ten minutes each way max with two  people 
assuming good planning.  Probably no more time than erecting a soft  top from 
beginning to end though it does require a storage area for the hardtop  and a 
second person, though the top on my 100 is so light that I really can  do 
it by myself being careful in placement, etc.
 
As you may guess I like hardtops.  If you don't--and many are in that  
department--then the discussion becomes moot.  
 
Best--Michael  

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 30 20:52:09 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:52:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>

Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
"cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane change
in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.  I
have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the louder
pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds (only
two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their brain
as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People in
cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they way
they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy sports
cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
from riding)



>
> Tom Felts wrote:
>
>> Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".
>>
>>
>>
>>

>  I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking
>> they  are simply an extra set of balls.
>>  Best--Michael Oritt
>> --------------------------------------------

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 21:08:29 2009
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:08:29 EST
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
Message-ID: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/30/2009 10:52:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rrengineer at dslextreme.com writes:

Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you  appreciate 
the fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most  people in 
"cages"


Mike--
 
I have ridden them, you are right about how most car people have no sense  
of motorcycles' presence and that is why I don't ride them any more.   
Motorcycle/car accidents are very common here and you know who always  loses.
 
My personal feelings toward "loud pipes" are just my personal  feelings:  
They definitely make riding safer for the biker who has  them and they are 
definitely intrusive into the peace and quiet of the  rest of the world.  I 
live in Southern MD where Harleys--both big  boys and sportsters--are 
extremely popular and all are equipped with loud  pipes.  If you live within a mile 
of route 2/4 get used to  hearing their roar throughout the day and night.  
Then again Jap tuner cars  with extremely loud mufflers driven by young 
males are almost as  popular and just as noisy.  
 
Anyway, I started this string, it has inevitably moved far afield from the  
question I originally asked re a muffler for my 100 to make it quieter so 
can we  either return to the topic or put the string to sleep?
 
Best--Michael  

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 30 21:29:17 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:29:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com>
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com>

Not to be a sourpuss, I have a stock steel muffler I intend to use on my BN2
restoration. Would like to experience the original sound experience first
time with a big Healey.
Mike MacLean

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 8:08 PM, <awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:

>  In a message dated 12/30/2009 10:52:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> rrengineer at dslextreme.com writes:
>
> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
> fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
> "cages"
>
>  Mike--
>
> I have ridden them, you are right about how most car people have no sense
> of motorcycles' presence and that is why I don't ride them any more.
> Motorcycle/car accidents are very common here and you know who always loses.
>
> My personal feelings toward "loud pipes" are just my personal feelings:
> They definitely make riding safer for the biker who has them and they are
> definitely intrusive into the peace and quiet of the rest of the world.  I
> live in Southern MD where Harleys--both big boys and sportsters--are
> extremely popular and all are equipped with loud pipes.  If you live within
> a mile of route 2/4 get used to hearing their roar throughout the day and
> night.  Then again Jap tuner cars with extremely loud mufflers driven by
> young males are almost as popular and just as noisy.
>
> Anyway, I started this string, it has inevitably moved far afield from the
> question I originally asked re a muffler for my 100 to make it quieter so
> can we either return to the topic or put the string to sleep?
>
> Best--Michael

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 22:16:37 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:16:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bike mufflers  Was: Re:  Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
	<d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B3C33B5.3040505@comcast.net>

FWIW, I got nothing against bikes/bikers--my best friend rides--and I go 
out of my way to give them a break (when I see them).  But, I've pulled 
out in front of a couple bikes I didn't see; these bikes were coming at 
me and I don't think loud pipes did/would help at all, since the noise 
is largely behind them (there's some acoustic physics at play here, but 
I won't pretend to understand them).

I think loud pipes as a safety feature is overstated.  Just my opinion, 
based on my observations.


bs



rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote:
> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
> fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
> "cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
> times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
> me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane change
> in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.  I
> have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the louder
> pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
> right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds (only
> two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their brain
> as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People in
> cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
> have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they way
> they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy sports
> cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
> motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
> Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
> you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
> advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> 02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
> from riding)
>
>
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Dec 30 22:20:45 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:20:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bike mufflers Was: Re:  Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <4B3C33B5.3040505@comcast.net>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
	<d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B3C33B5.3040505@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130912302120j7833efcbtbcd820efe69bfe69@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
     You may be right is many cases, but if they are loud enough...  In
California it is legal to split lanes on the freeway.  I have had slow
moving cars widen the space btween them several cars back when I am doing
this.  I have also had people purposely tighten up the space because they
either are jealous of me getting ahead in slow moving traffic, don't like
motorcycles or are just assholes.
Mike

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> FWIW, I got nothing against bikes/bikers--my best friend rides--and I go
> out of my way to give them a break (when I see them).  But, I've pulled out
> in front of a couple bikes I didn't see; these bikes were coming at me and I
> don't think loud pipes did/would help at all, since the noise is largely
> behind them (there's some acoustic physics at play here, but I won't pretend
> to understand them).
>
> I think loud pipes as a safety feature is overstated.  Just my opinion,
> based on my observations.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote:
>
>> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate
>> the
>> fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
>> "cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
>> times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
>> me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane
>> change
>> in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.
>>  I
>> have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the
>> louder
>> pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
>> right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds
>> (only
>> two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their
>> brain
>> as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People
>> in
>> cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
>> have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they
>> way
>> they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy
>> sports
>> cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
>> motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
>> Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
>> you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
>> advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 AN5
>> 02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
>> from riding)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 22:25:25 2009
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:25:25 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Start of the Japanese Auto Industry
In-Reply-To: <49e7.a377e64.386d2fe1@aol.com>
References: <49e7.a377e64.386d2fe1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49960CF9-CAAA-40A0-905E-EB39BC5F2291@gmail.com>

How about the Goggomobil Dart?
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goggomobil_Dart
:-)
Happy New Years Eve
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 31/12/2009, at 9:36 AM, awgertoo at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/30/2009 2:51:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com writes:
>
> Aside  from a Berkley, I can't think of any smaller car.
> -----------------------------------------------
>
>
> How about a Cyclops?

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 22:41:59 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:41:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
	<d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912302141p10f7bf81wb8ddf826aa4bddcc@mail.gmail.com>

I guess you're a different breed than the a-hole that was revving his Harley
full blast in front of a bar for about 15 minutes at 1 am about two blocks
from the White House when I was in DC early last year.  I am sure the
President was impressed.

I also always enjoy visiting my mechanic, the mechanic next door fixes
British motorcycles and as a result I can never have a
normal uninterrupted conversation with my car mechanic.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 11:52 AM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com <
rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote:

> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
> fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
> "cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
> times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
> me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane
> change
> in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.
>  I
> have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the louder
> pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
> right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds
> (only
> two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their brain
> as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People in
> cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
> have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they
> way
> they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy sports
> cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
> motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
> Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
> you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
> advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> 02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
> from riding)
>
>
>
> >
> > Tom Felts wrote:
> >
> >> Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
> >  I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking
> >> they  are simply an extra set of balls.
> >>  Best--Michael Oritt
> >> --------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 22:53:21 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:53:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <8CC57DB93DF3A42-3784-1AA30@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>
References: <SNT103-W6E3FE66C98C98D3B7F131D5790@phx.gbl>
	<8CC57DB93DF3A42-3784-1AA30@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0912302153y3c83ec3aj5c20090e97e910b1@mail.gmail.com>

Larry -

Very interesting website.

It is clear to me that this website owner does, in fact, "know jack."

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 10:53 AM, <bighealey3k at aim.com> wrote:

> Andy,  On second look at the jack on Ebay, I didn't see the second image
> showing the jack handle socket that is not correct for my jack.  My jack is
> like the new jack in image #44 in your link
> http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm.  Is the jack on Ebay fully
> retracted (as mentioned in image #48)?  Mine retracts fully as shown in
> #44.
> Sorry about the confusion.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 23:52:31 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 22:52:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] SU Float Lid Nut
In-Reply-To: <20091230.165333.10765.68357@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20091230.165333.10765.68357@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <751d05480912302252g2bacffc0x27462394dbb6584f@mail.gmail.com>

Doug,

Just off the top of my head I think it's 1/4 BSF but that's just a WAG.
I'll check in the AM.

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 4:53 PM, dwflagg <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know the thread size for the SU float lid nut? TIA
>
> Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> Diet Help
> Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here.
>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=ZiDghraHXIsYK8UgIpEDBAAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Dec 31 02:30:31 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:30:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] shelley jack with ebay item number
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W6E3FE66C98C98D3B7F131D5790@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT103-W43471FA70D83FDF102214CD5790@phx.gbl>,
	<8CC57B4D0CCD709-1828-493C2@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
	<SNT103-W6E3FE66C98C98D3B7F131D5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D888DE@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

Just a question to the experts on jacks. The second jack "6 INCH", "DL"
on  http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm
Is this the right jack for a 100 BN1? I mean is the L-shape the right
one ? or is the L-shape as in this picture for earlier jacks (pre 1950s)
and it should be a different L-shape like the later LJ23, LJ21 shelley
jacks had.
And for what production period of BN1s (years/months) would it be the
right jack?
Or better, would this jack ("6 INCH", "DL") as shown in the second
picture be Concours acceptable for a May 1954 BN1?
Thanks,

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 31 04:10:34 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 06:10:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>
References: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS771BF8C9635A2C1FF6AE0B3780@phx.gbl>

Hi Michael,
The Silver Bullet (BJ8) has a tail pipe & muffler system fabricated by a 
local muffler guy incorporating two mufflers that seem to me to be identical 
to the 1950's  "Cherry Bombs" or glass packs. The sound is very close to 
what I remember from my original BJ8's in the '60's.  No blatting or 
back-fires on deceleration.  We kept both pipes on the left side all the way 
to the end.  Pretty good ground clearance and lots of ++ comments from other 
old Healey guys.
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: <awgertoo at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 8:42 PM
To: <grday at btinternet.com>; <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100

> In a message dated 12/30/2009 7:59:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> grday at btinternet.com writes:
>
> Please  do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note  is
> wonderful....  <snip>  Are you saying yours  isn't?
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
>
> Yes, I think that when I installed the whole system--the AL head, the
> tubular manifold and the DW exhaust it sounded better than it does now. 
> It  was
> always "loud" but now there is just too much going on--an unpleasant 
> hollow
> raspiness and a LOT of "loud".
>
> It is of course impossible for me to quantitatively compare what the 
> "loud"
> of 2002 is compared to the "loud" of 2009--perhaps some of it reflects a
> change of taste on my part, but bottom-line it is my car and I want it to 
> be
> the way I want it to be.  BTW in 2002 I did not have a hardtop  whereas
> now I do--the hardtop definitely cuts down on noise in general and 
> increases
> comfort--perhaps another reflection on some personal change--but the 
> "loud"
> is an unpleasant "blatting" that prevents my enjoying music at  revs 
> unless
> I play it all the way up, and then when I come down to  lower speeds I 
> must
> turn down the audio.
>
> I'm not looking for perfection, just a more pleasant tone.  The  exhaust
> tone of my wife's BN7--very stock and also with a hardtop--is that 
> classic
> Healey sweet tone.  I don't think people have  historically admired the 
> Healey
> exhaust note because it was loud but rather  because it was sweet, if a 
> bit
> loud.
>
> I'll keep looking--thanks all for the input.
>
> Best--Michael  Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Thu Dec 31 04:34:29 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 12:34:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912301211w2a4de20eyef42488292b19c70@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c08.6b6c42c9.386c4c33@aol.com>
	<173126440912300024l3acaa056t51efd43d0f44950a@mail.gmail.com>
	<6AAE97B75B22447DB0324BBF34BE406A@user8634b3d69b>
	<d49b03130912301211w2a4de20eyef42488292b19c70@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250912310334v7b18fb71j61eea89351b82ff1@mail.gmail.com>

Guys, although I'm not an enthusiast acclaimer of many of our traffic laws,
there is one which I like and that is that exhaust systems on bikes (and
cars) may not be changed for louder systems. If a motorbike makes too much
noise, like a Harley with 'scaffolding pipes' , as we call the straight
exhaust pipes, and it attracts the attention of our police, the biker is
told to change his exhaust back into its original state, i.e. the state in
which the bike was when it received its 'type approval' (=as it left the
factory). The bike documents are confiscated and only given back to the
owner when he shows up at the police station with the quiter bike.
I don't say this puts a stop to louder exhausts, but it does help.
And finally: a very loud HAPPY NEW YEAR to all listers!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1984 BMW K100 RT (which is a quiet motorbike)

2009/12/30 rrengineer @dslextreme.com <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>

> You definitely would not like my Harley Davidson with the aftermarket
> exhaust then Guy.  It sets off car alarms at 100 feet when I really get on
> it, but I wear ear plugs.  The ear plugs are more for the wind noise
> instead
> of the noise behind me.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> 02 Heritage Springer
>
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:48 AM, Guy R Day <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> > Here in the UK a loud vehicle exhaust sound in the street is generally
> seen
> > as a bad sign.  It conjures up images of forever being stopped by the
> > Police, of potentially dangerous youth involvement (ie drugs, muggings,
> > thefts etc), of being a flash boy racer or fast uncontrolled driving.  It
> is
> > always a source of amusement to read posts where having a loud exhaust
> note
> > is a requisite.  Seeing some of the exhaust tail pipes that are larger
> than
> > the engine cylinder bore is also an amusing sight provided by 'yoof' who
> > cruise around in rather loud Jap cars.  Bling rules in the street parade!
> > Please do not get me wrong, the sound of a well tuned exhaust note is
> > wonderful and despite living across town and 4 miles away from what was
> my
> > nearest car tuning centre I could still hear when they had a 'good' motor
> on
> > the rolling road.  This was normally a single seat racecar on the third
> set
> > of rollers (Harry's set)that read up to 600bhp and if doing nothing else
> I'd
> > pop down there to see what it was.
> >
> > A loud exhaust note does not equate to the best power output and my
> > recommendation would be to thoroughly research exhaust tuning, especially
> > tuned length savaging systems for LBCs.
> >
> > Guy R Day
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Dec 31 06:41:46 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 7:41:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20091231074146.7S0R6.55860.root@ispmxfep14-z02>

PS---I have on and ride occasionally myself.


---- "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: 

=============
Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
"cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane change
in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.  I
have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the louder
pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds (only
two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their brain
as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People in
cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they way
they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy sports
cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
from riding)



>
> Tom Felts wrote:
>
>> Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".
>>
>>
>>
>>

>  I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking
>> they  are simply an extra set of balls.
>>  Best--Michael Oritt
>> --------------------------------------------

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Thu Dec 31 06:49:50 2009
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 08:49:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3968.1262236852.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3968.1262236852.4175.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B3CABFE.1030007@comcast.net>

rrengineer wrote:
> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate
> the fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
> "cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).

It is true motorcycles that are invisible. You can test your own awareness:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ahg6qcgoay4>

I failed. How'd you do?

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
'93 BMW R1100RS

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Dec 31 06:49:22 2009
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 7:49:22 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091231074922.ED8U7.56002.root@ispmxfep14-z02>

BTW, I have one and ride it occasionally----with quite pipes.  I have taken my other comments off line.  Agree--the topic should be closed.

tom

---- awgertoo at aol.com wrote: 

=============
 
In a message dated 12/30/2009 10:52:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rrengineer at dslextreme.com writes:

Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you  appreciate 
the fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most  people in 
"cages"


Mike--
 
I have ridden them, you are right about how most car people have no sense  
of motorcycles' presence and that is why I don't ride them any more.   
Motorcycle/car accidents are very common here and you know who always  loses.
 
My personal feelings toward "loud pipes" are just my personal  feelings:  
They definitely make riding safer for the biker who has  them and they are 
definitely intrusive into the peace and quiet of the  rest of the world.  I 
live in Southern MD where Harleys--both big  boys and sportsters--are 
extremely popular and all are equipped with loud  pipes.  If you live within a mile 
of route 2/4 get used to  hearing their roar throughout the day and night.  
Then again Jap tuner cars  with extremely loud mufflers driven by young 
males are almost as  popular and just as noisy.  
 
Anyway, I started this string, it has inevitably moved far afield from the  
question I originally asked re a muffler for my 100 to make it quieter so 
can we  either return to the topic or put the string to sleep?
 
Best--Michael  

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Dec 31 07:28:03 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:28:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com>
	<d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <419781B411FE49A393D0DAC5B73D49D0@LIFEBOOK>

I hate to burst everyone's bubble regarding the mufflers we fit to our cars, 
but they were originally fitted with mufflers manufactured by Burgess 
Silencers. These were made of mild steel but the ones made for the Hundred, 
the 100/Six and the 3000 up to the BJ8 were flat on the top and bottom, very 
heavy duty construction and were wonderfully quiet.
When I got into Healeys in the early 1970's the replacements that were 
available to us from then and for years now were a horrible thing 
manufactured by Harmo, Walker, etc. These are readily recognizable as being 
distinctly oval in cross section, losing the original flat shape on the top 
and bottom that the Burgess had. This of course lost us almost an inch of 
ground clearance as well as being louder right from new.
I was able to find a n.o.s original 2 in / 2 out Burgess muffler in the 
early '80's and installed it on my restoration of HBT7L 18718, a tricarb 
completed in summer 1982. It tucked up nicely under the car, and had a 
relatively classy smooth mellow sound when accelerating up through the rev 
ranges, not a raspy loud whine that folks have come to believe was original.
Another example of the years, popular opinion and poor memory gradually 
changing the facts.
Sure wish a manufacturer would find a Burgess muffler, dissect it, copy it 
in every detail and manufacture them for sale. Mike would then have exactly 
what he's looking for.

Rich Chrysler





Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100


> Not to be a sourpuss, I have a stock steel muffler I intend to use on my 
> BN2
> restoration. Would like to experience the original sound experience first
> time with a big Healey.
> Mike MacLean

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Thu Dec 31 08:13:18 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:13:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles
In-Reply-To: <96E4E06E60CB4D0294869747FB295E6A@ACM030>
References: <96E4E06E60CB4D0294869747FB295E6A@ACM030>
Message-ID: <137229b0912310713y3bdbc54bq72b14c54a5d4535@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Allen,
Having suffered a stub axle failure while racing a Healey I can appreciate
your concern.
Many years ago I had every Healey and MG stub axle that I owned crack
tested. More than half the Healey ones (8 of the 15) tested were cracked. Of
the ones that I had to disassemble to have tested 3 of the 4 where the
spacer and shims had previously been removed were cracked. None of the MGB
ones (12), or for that matter late BJ8 ones (only 2), were cracked. I know
this is no where near sufficient quantity constitute conclusive study but
the trend is obvious.
Although Steve Byer disagrees with me on this I firmly believe that the
spacer and shims contribute significantly to the rigidity of the stub axle
and, as a result, limit the flexing at its root. This in turn substantially
reduces their exposure to stress related cracking.
I would definitely use penetrant or Magnaflux testing before shot-peening as
the compressive stress area just below the surface could indeed mask an
existing crack.
Although I've had only minimal experiance with it I would suspect that Xray
testing would still show a preexisting crack after shot peening but I would
deffer that to someone with more experience with Xray testing.
I had so little confidence in the strength of the Healey stub axle design
that I switched to MGB stub axles when I build AHX12 for rallying.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ahx12.html
Hope that helps

Michael Salter


On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 10:21 PM, allen c miller jr <acmiller at mhcable.com>wrote:

> have heard a lot about big Healey stub axles showing latent flaws when
> tested.
> do you have them magnafluxed or xrayed? also, if magnafluxed, does
> shot-peening seal the cracks so they cannot be properly visualized (as i
> was
> told by someone who who restores healeys)? if so, is there an easy
> alternative
> to removing paint and leaving the cracks open? lastly, can you rely on
> micrometer measurements at right angles to determine whether there is wear
> in
> the bronze bushings, or is there another method to check for kingpin
> laxity?
> am going to race a bn2, so i want to take extra precautions.
>
> thanks. allen miller
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Dec 31 08:20:14 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:20:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <20091231074146.7S0R6.55860.root@ispmxfep14-z02>
References: <20091231074146.7S0R6.55860.root@ispmxfep14-z02>
Message-ID: <4B3CC12E.3060805@comcast.net>

You guys haven't lived until you try to sleep with your bedroom 30' from 
the main street when the Harley open house happens here at the end of 
Sept. each year.  There are upwards of 5,000 Harleys in town and they 
ride up and down 'til the wee hours bar hopping.  I don't complain, just 
wear ear plugs to bed that Friday night. 
The Harley plant employs a lot of people and we almost lost them this 
year to another location.  Even so, they will be laying off half the 
workforce.  The open house also brings a lot of commerce to the area, so 
being against a night or two of noisy motorcycles is stupid and selfish.
Charlie
York, PA

Tom Felts wrote:
> PS---I have on and ride occasionally myself.
>
>
> ---- "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote: 
>
> =============
> Obviously, you gentlemen do not ride motorcycles, nor do you appreciate the
> fact of how a "quiet" motorcycle is quite invisible to most people in
> "cages" (cars to the 4 wheel vehicle types).  I cannot tell you how many
> times I have been cut off in traffic by someone that simply does not "see"
> me when they take a left in front of me in oncoming traffic or a lane change
> in front of me.  Before I changed the exhaust this happened all the time.  I
> have cut the frequency of this occurance considerably by putting the louder
> pipes on my motorcycle.  I have had people take a left turn while looking
> right at me, turn in front of my moving combined weight of 1000 pounds (only
> two brakes and two contact patches) because I don't register in their brain
> as a vehicle.  I don't look like a car, so I must not be there.   People in
> cars think that a motorcycle can stop on a dime.  Little do they know.  I
> have loud pipes for a better chance at survival.  Of course, I like they way
> they sound too.  What are you guys compensating for with your flashy sports
> cars?  I don't really give a crap what you guys think of me or my
> motorcycle.  I have been riding them as long as I have been driving Austin
> Healeys. (About 40 years)  Even in an accident in your fifty year old car,
> you are safer than me on my exposed two wheel vehicle.  I'll take any
> advantage I can get. People in glass houses...
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> 02 Heritage Springer (I'm safer in the first two, but it doesn't stop me
> from riding)
>
>
>
>   
>> Tom Felts wrote:
>>
>>     
>>> Yep---I call them a "rolling erection".
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>       
>
>   
>>  I know bikers claim they are a "safety item" but to my way of thinking
>>     
>>> they  are simply an extra set of balls.
>>>  Best--Michael Oritt
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>>       
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From rdryman1 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 31 08:26:20 2009
From: rdryman1 at yahoo.com (Richard Dryman)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 07:26:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <BLU107-DS771BF8C9635A2C1FF6AE0B3780@phx.gbl>
References: <6828.4a15a213.386d5b6a@aol.com>
	<BLU107-DS771BF8C9635A2C1FF6AE0B3780@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <63569.57257.qm@web110308.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Totally concur with Gary's installation of 'glasspacks' for the Healey{have
looked at his and he at mine}. Problem with the current original replacement
mufflers is metal thickness and construction methods. I had a NEW orig type
(BJ7) & the thin metal, etc. cause resonance vibration in the interior.
Earplugs were necessary; altho I had run this type of muffler and pipes for
the previous 20+ years without a problem.
 We know the installation is dual
and not single as 100, but this all is for general info.
 
To keep from having
to redo the down pipes and tailpipes spacings[distance apart] I installed 4
glasspacks; these are 12" body length( to give total orig length for
hanging),3" diameter, and have 1 3/4" pipes. The smallest you can get with
longer glasspacks is 2" pipes with a 4" total body diameter; problem is this
is too wide for original configuration and puts them closer to the road.
Certainly you have to use transition reducers (welded) and weld the mufflers
together with hanger tabs(they use original hangers in original location).
 
 The result is an original sound if not even louder--BUT the sound isat the
rear of the Healey, NOT in the interior. Remember the original mufflers were
much thicker metal with pinched and welded corners, not the thin and 'rolled'
construction of today with their resonance vibrations. The glasspack
housings are probably twice as thick and the front (and rear) are tapered
preventing total destruction if obstacles are hit on the road. Perhaps this is
an alternate installation for your consideration. 
I wouldn't change at
all--earplugs aren't stylish. This size glasspack isn't easy to find: JC
Whitney item MS222813Y.
You can see this installation at the following link
(photos #5 AND # 9). 
 
>>>>
http://picasaweb.google.com/rdryman/AusTinHeaLey#5221435380754446706
________________________________
From: gary brierton <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
To: awgertoo at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009
6:10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100

Hi Michael,
The
Silver Bullet (BJ8) has a tail pipe & muffler system fabricated by a local
muffler guy incorporating two mufflers that seem to me to be identical to the
1950's  "Cherry Bombs" or glass packs. The sound is very close to what I
remember from my original BJ8's in the '60's.  No blatting or back-fires on
deceleration.  We kept both pipes on the left side all the way to the end. 
Pretty good ground clearance and lots of ++ comments from other old Healey
guys.
GaryB

From robertlarson at att.net  Thu Dec 31 08:29:03 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:29:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bike mufflers Was: Re:  Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130912302120j7833efcbtbcd820efe69bfe69@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091230191407.ENNCH.50591.root@ispmxfep12-z02>
	<4B3C0EAF.9010005@sasktel.net>
	<d49b03130912301952y2c3df634u61db1d74a20d6710@mail.gmail.com>
	<4B3C33B5.3040505@comcast.net>
	<d49b03130912302120j7833efcbtbcd820efe69bfe69@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4B3CC33F.6070204@att.net>

Lane splitting in not legal in NJ.

However,  many years ago when doing it in traffic in Newark, NJ  I had 
an A-H, he was also a
MF'er, open the door in front  of me at the last second.  Stopped past 
the door opening but
short of the door.   

Bob
62,79,06 Triumph
60 Matchless
65 Royal Enfield
64  Norton

and others from Austin Healey Land...

rrengineer @dslextreme.com wrote:
> Bob,
>      You may be right is many cases, but if they are loud enough...  In
> California it is legal to split lanes on the freeway.  I have had slow
> moving cars widen the space btween them several cars back when I am doing
> this.  I have also had people purposely tighten up the space because they
> either are jealous of me getting ahead in slow moving traffic, don't like
> motorcycles or are just assholes.
> Mike
>
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 31 10:27:39 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:27:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com><d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com>
	<419781B411FE49A393D0DAC5B73D49D0@LIFEBOOK>
Message-ID: <246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>

When I completed the restoration of my BN7 I was very unhappy with the loud 
sound from the new Moss supplied mild steel muffler.  I wanted a quieter 
muffler due to my age and my efforts to protect what is left of my hearing. 
After experimenting with several different mufflers I got a mild steel 
muffler manufactured by Bell.  Much quieter than the others and well made.

Happy New Year

Ron Fine 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 11:38:27 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:38:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
Message-ID: <000e01ca8a48$717df900$5479eb00$@rr.com>

After I retired from my job as engineering supervisor for the U.S. Navy H-3
Sea King helicopter design and maintenance engineering group, I became
Engineering Manager for a commercial contractor supervising 5 structural
design engineers.  These engineers used the Pro Engineer structural design
software suite on a daily basis to design modifications for Coast Guard,
U.S. Navy, and U. S. Army helicopters.  It was my hope and plan that they
could help me perform a finite element analysis of the BJ8 stub axle and
bearing assembly with and without the spacer and shims installed, so we
could resolve the question of the effect of the spacer/shims on the stub
axle strength, once and for all.
The problem I had was that I did not have the physical dimensions of the
splined hub adapter and the internal stack-up of parts that could be used as
input to the analysis. 
After Hemphill's Healey Haven stuck with me with an unusable brand-new
splined right front hub adapter (incorrectly machined, causing a wobble in
the rotor) and refused to make good on it, I decided to section the adapter
so that a cross-section of the total assembly could be obtained.  With this,
I was going to feed it to one of the structural design engineers and have
him do the analysis.  Unfortunately for that, it was about at this point
that I decided to retire again and I no longer had access to the engineering
expertise or software to get the analysis done.
However, I did submit measurements and photos to get the technical opinion
of all five of the engineers.  Unanimously, they agreed that while the
spacer and bearing stack-up would add some small amount of stiffness to the
assembly, it was not enough to have any significant effect on either the
strength or strain (flexing) at the root of the stub axle.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 11:39:30 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:39:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
Message-ID: <000f01ca8a48$971e1550$c55a3ff0$@rr.com>

In the absence of any formal analysis of this issue, we are just going to
have to agree to disagree.  Until that is done, it's all anecdotal evidence
and becomes just a matter of opinion.  By the way, years ago there was a
member of this list who was a Timken bearing engineer.  He agreed that the
purpose of the spacer and shims was only to pre-load the bearings more
precisely and remove the inherent free play that allows the bearings to be
assembled.

Any inspection (Magnaflux, fluorescent penetrant, or X-ray) for cracks in
the stub axle should be done before the surface is shot peened.  Shot
peening is done to cause compressive stresses in the surface and a little
below the surface.  This effectively strengthens the part because tensile
stresses that lead to cracking must overcome the compressive stresses before
the tensiles have any effect.  It doesn't make a lot of sense to shot peen
an item that already has cracks.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 11:41:07 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:41:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
Message-ID: <001001ca8a48$d08620d0$71926270$@rr.com>

After I retired from my job as engineering supervisor for the U.S. Navy H-3
Sea King helicopter design and maintenance engineering group, I became
Engineering Manager for a commercial contractor supervising 5 structural
design engineers.  These engineers used the Pro Engineer structural design
software suite on a daily basis to design modifications for Coast Guard,
U.S. Navy, and U. S. Army helicopters.  It was my hope and plan that they
could help me perform a finite element analysis of the BJ8 stub axle and
bearing assembly with and without the spacer and shims installed, so we
could resolve the question of the effect of the spacer/shims on the stub
axle strength, once and for all.
The problem I had was that I did not have the physical dimensions of the
splined hub adapter and the internal stack-up of parts that could be used as
input to the analysis. 



Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 11:41:32 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:41:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  stub axles, Part 2
Message-ID: <001101ca8a48$df5c3180$9e149480$@rr.com>

After Hemphill's Healey Haven stuck with me with an unusable brand-new
splined right front hub adapter (incorrectly machined, causing a wobble in
the rotor) and refused to make good on it, I decided to section the adapter
so that a cross-section of the total assembly could be obtained.  With this,
I was going to feed it to one of the structural design engineers and have
him do the analysis.  Unfortunately for that, it was about at this point
that I decided to retire again and I no longer had access to the engineering
expertise or software to get the analysis done.
However, I did submit measurements and photos to get the technical opinion
of all five of the engineers.  Unanimously, they agreed that while the
spacer and bearing stack-up would add some small amount of stiffness to the
assembly, it was not enough to have any significant effect on either the
strength or strain (flexing) at the root of the stub axle.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 31 11:58:27 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:58:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100 - Glasspacks
Message-ID: <165026.46652.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100 - Glasspacks
To: "gary brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>, awgertoo at aol.com, "Richard
Dryman" <rdryman1 at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 12:57 PM

Generally "steelpacks" will keep their tone and not get louder longer than
"glasspacks "  Porter Mufflers will custom make steelpacks to your
specification.  http://www.portermufflers.com/   Cool thing is the owner's Dad
drove a Hillborn injected 301 Chevy powered Healey to 167 mph at Bonneville in
1961

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

-

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 12:12:38 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 14:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
Message-ID: <001d01ca8a4d$380ecf50$a82c6df0$@rr.com>

Geez, it appears that anything more than two sentences goes over the 3k
limit.

After I retired from my job as engineering supervisor for the U.S. Navy H-3
Sea King helicopter design and maintenance engineering group, I became
Engineering Manager for a commercial contractor supervising 5 structural
design engineers.  These engineers used the Pro Engineer structural design
software suite on a daily basis to design modifications for Coast Guard,
U.S. Navy, and U. S. Army helicopters.  It was my hope and plan that they
could help me perform a finite element analysis of the BJ8 stub axle and
bearing assembly with and without the spacer and shims installed, so we
could resolve the question of the effect of the spacer/shims on the stub
axle strength, once and for all.
The problem I had was that I did not have the physical dimensions of the
splined hub adapter and the internal stack-up of parts that could be used as
input to the analysis.  Part 2 to follow...

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 12:14:10 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 14:14:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
Message-ID: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>

After Hemphill's Healey Haven stuck with me with an unusable brand-new
splined right front hub adapter (incorrectly machined, causing a wobble in
the rotor) and refused to make good on it, I decided to section the adapter
so that a cross-section of the total assembly could be obtained.  With this,
I was going to feed it to one of the structural design engineers and have
him do the analysis.  Unfortunately for that, it was about at this point
that I decided to retire again and I no longer had access to the engineering
expertise or software to get the analysis done.
However, I did submit measurements and photos to get the technical opinion
of all five of the engineers.  Unanimously, they agreed that while the
spacer and bearing stack-up would add some small amount of stiffness to the
assembly, it was not enough to have any significant effect on either the
strength or strain (flexing) at the root of the stub axle.  Part 3 to
follow..
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Dec 31 12:47:22 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:47:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
In-Reply-To: <001001ca8a48$d08620d0$71926270$@rr.com>
References: <001001ca8a48$d08620d0$71926270$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D888EF@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>

I have never heart of a broken stub axle on an Austin-Healey. Is there anyone
who experienced a broken stub axle on its Healey? I know there are problems
with broken king pins on MG As, but never heart from Healeys with problems.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BJ8 Healeys
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 31. Dezember 2009 19:41
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1

After I retired from my job as engineering supervisor for the U.S. Navy H-3
Sea King helicopter design and maintenance engineering group, I became
Engineering Manager for a commercial contractor supervising 5 structural
design engineers.  These engineers used the Pro Engineer structural design
software suite on a daily basis to design modifications for Coast Guard, U.S.
Navy, and U. S. Army helicopters.  It was my hope and plan that they could
help me perform a finite element analysis of the BJ8 stub axle and bearing
assembly with and without the spacer and shims installed, so we could resolve
the question of the effect of the spacer/shims on the stub axle strength, once
and for all.
The problem I had was that I did not have the physical dimensions of the
splined hub adapter and the internal stack-up of parts that could be used as
input to the analysis.



Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
____________________

From geatros at shaw.ca  Thu Dec 31 13:32:08 2009
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 12:32:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a Hardtop for a BN4
Message-ID: <A5A5890DFEE94E5A940CD6224E078205@soloPC>

Hello Healey Folks ,

My 22 year old son is looking for a Factory Hardtop for his BN4 100-6  he's
restoring . Does anyone in the Vancouver BC Canada area have one that they
might sell ? A restorable project Hardtop is what he's looking
for.................

Cheers and Happy New Year !
Kenny

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Dec 31 13:52:18 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:52:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] TR3A/TR4 Carb
Message-ID: <20091231.125258.5937.67335@mailpop05.dca.untd.com>

I have a very nice, front, complete SU H6 carb for a TR3A/TR4. Before
listing on eBay, I wanted to check if there was an interest or need on
the list. Please contact me off the list. 

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Diet Help
Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=Poeqw2ztPhnC9IADTUoJowAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 31 14:04:56 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:04:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com><d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com>
	<419781B411FE49A393D0DAC5B73D49D0@LIFEBOOK>
	<246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>
Message-ID: <4B3D11F8.7060400@earthlink.net>

Ron,

Do you know of a US distributor of Bell?

Does Bell make a mild steel system?  On their website 
(http://www.bell-silencer.co.uk/products.htm) implies that they just 
make stainless steel systems.

Bob

Ron Fine wrote:
> When I completed the restoration of my BN7 I was very unhappy with the 
> loud sound from the new Moss supplied mild steel muffler.  I wanted a 
> quieter muffler due to my age and my efforts to protect what is left of 
> my hearing. After experimenting with several different mufflers I got a 
> mild steel muffler manufactured by Bell.  Much quieter than the others 
> and well made.
> 
> Happy New Year
> 
> Ron Fine _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Dec 31 14:37:29 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:37:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multiple posts re:  stub axles
Message-ID: <003601ca8a61$74476fe0$5cd64fa0$@rr.com>

All, I apologize for the multiple posts from me about the stub axles and
bearing spacer.  My first attempt to state it all in one post was rejected
as over the limit.  To keep my response timely, I cut it into parts, but had
to make several more attempts before I got any of them under 3K.   It
appears that all of them are starting to come in.
 
Sorry,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 31 14:44:24 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 13:44:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com><d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com>
	<419781B411FE49A393D0DAC5B73D49D0@LIFEBOOK>
	<246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>
Message-ID: <2B81F4DB-DA16-4616-9568-37082F943E2B@gmail.com>

30 years ago I bought a lifetome muffler from Midas. They honored it a  
few years ago. But is was jassle to get them to provide an oem unit.
Much quiter.
I Erbs
Sent from my iPod

On Dec 31, 2009, at 9:27 AM, "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>  
wrote:

> When I completed the restoration of my BN7 I was very unhappy with  
> the loud sound from the new Moss supplied mild steel muffler.  I  
> wanted a quieter muffler due to my age and my efforts to protect  
> what is left of my hearing. After experimenting with several  
> different mufflers I got a mild steel muffler manufactured by Bell.   
> Much quieter than the others and well made.
>
> Happy New Year
>
> Ron Fine _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eyera3 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Thu Dec 31 15:02:07 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:02:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Muffler for Healey 100
References: <0ED7108E-B12B-4AAD-8330-EBD0CE3BCD0E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AC68D80-7E03-4B02-AA7D-D24268536771@gmail.com>

> From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
> Date: December 31, 2009 5:00:39 PM EST
> To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
>
> Contact George Ramsey at:   gramsey at engelimports.com
>
> www.engelimports.com/
>
> or 800-581-8188
>
> Bought my BJ8 system (Stainless) and very happy with it and their service.
NFI
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
> On Dec 31, 2009, at 4:04 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>
>> Ron,
>>
>> Do you know of a US distributor of Bell?
>>
>> Does Bell make a mild steel system?  On their website
(http://www.bell-silencer.co.uk/products.htm) implies that they just make
stainless steel systems.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Ron Fine wrote:
>>> When I completed the restoration of my BN7 I was very unhappy with the
loud sound from the new Moss supplied mild steel muffler.  I wanted a quieter
muffler due to my age and my efforts to protect what is left of my hearing.
After experimenting with several different mufflers I got a mild steel muffler
manufactured by Bell.  Much quieter than the others and well made.
>>> Happy New Year
>>> Ron Fine _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com  Thu Dec 31 15:51:29 2009
From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:51:29 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
In-Reply-To: <6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D888EF@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
References: <001001ca8a48$d08620d0$71926270$@rr.com>
	<6794FA491BD5754DB88F0A3D1E53C2F3D888EF@S4DE8PSAAQG.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <D2DB314853D44C1FB547C5D6C201FD3B@FredLaptop>

A number of years ago, a Healey racer (D.P.) in the upper-midwest broke a stub
axle that subsequently ended up scuffing up the bodywork real bad (as in
rolled over). Denis Welch has had new stub axles available for a long time.
These axles, besides being made of more recent metal, also had a few design
changes (notably where the axle joined the flange). When the aforementioned
incident occurred, I replaced the axles on my racing Healey with the DW ones.
Crack tested the originals and found some minor cracks at the axle/flange
radius (scary). Nary a concern since replacing with the DW ones, and I crack
test them frequently. Over the years I've had the opportunity to crack test a
few of the stock axles, and invariably cracks were present.

At the other end of the car, I've also broken the portside half-shaft at the
flange. This isn't quite as serious as the front stub axle, other than you'll
find no power being sent to the rear wheels. I'd recommend crack testing the
rear half-shafts as well.

You can buy a crack-test kit from most racing shops - obviously not as good as
magna-fluxing, etc., but a decent alternative.

My suggestion is to check your axles for weakness/cracks on a yearly basis,
and replace as you see fit. In my opinion, I'd go with the DW parts.

Cheers,
Fred Crowley
Team Healey Texas
www.teamhealeytexas.com
972-867-2626
--------------------------------------------------
From: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 1:47 PM
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1

> I have never heart of a broken stub axle on an Austin-Healey. Is there
anyone
> who experienced a broken stub axle on its Healey? I know there are problems
> with broken king pins on MG As, but never heart from Healeys with problems.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany

From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com  Thu Dec 31 16:32:42 2009
From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:32:42 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1
Message-ID: <D963F21B55A447D6BA062642A9F44152@FredLaptop>

From: Fred Crowley
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:51 PM
To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com ; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 1


A number of years ago, a Healey racer (D.P.) in the upper-midwest broke a stub
axle that subsequently ended up scuffing up the bodywork real bad (as in
rolled over). Denis Welch has had new stub axles available for a long time.
These axles, besides being made of more recent metal, also had a few design
changes (notably where the axle joined the flange). When the aforementioned
incident occurred, I replaced the axles on my racing Healey with the DW ones.
Crack tested the originals and found some minor cracks at the axle/flange
radius (scary). Nary a concern since replacing with the DW ones, and I crack
test them frequently. Over the years I've had the opportunity to crack test a
few of the stock axles, and invariably cracks were present.

At the other end of the car, I've also broken the portside half-shaft at the
flange. This isn't quite as serious as the front stub axle, other than you'll
find no power being sent to the rear wheels. I'd recommend crack testing the
rear half-shafts as well.

You can buy a crack-test kit from most racing shops - obviously not as good as
magna-fluxing, etc., but a decent alternative.

My suggestion is to check your axles for weakness/cracks on a yearly basis,
and replace as you see fit. In my opinion, I'd go with the DW parts.

Specifically on the issue of spacers and shims, why mess with what worked for
Donald and the gang. I called around and found a local metal shop that would
make up shims to my specs. Had a number of different thicknesses made up.
Granted it was more expensive that buying retail from our Healey suppliers,
but with a greater variety of sizes I can now adjust  to my heart's content.

Cheers,
Fred Crowley
Team Healey Texas
www.teamhealeytexas.com
972-867-2626

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Thu Dec 31 16:51:42 2009
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:51:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Muffler for Healey 100
References: <7a3f.51e33102.386d7dbd@aol.com><d49b03130912302029w6fa19ad2yc913629cfe98c111@mail.gmail.com><419781B411FE49A393D0DAC5B73D49D0@LIFEBOOK><246D7BE9263E40BEA900D6AB445EFE4C@XPS400>
	<4B3D11F8.7060400@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <24CCAD0B120447BA85FFD63551047F9C@XPS400>

I purchased it directly from mailto:sales at ahspares.co.uk  I don't know who 
might be distributing it in the US today.

I bought it in late 2006.  I don't remember what it cost but they were just 
introducing it at that time.  It was suppose to be just like the SS one but 
in mild steel.  I am still very happy with it after about 5000 miles.
Ron 

From britcrs at gmail.com  Thu Dec 31 19:55:05 2009
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:55:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU Float Lid Nut
In-Reply-To: <751d05480912302252g2bacffc0x27462394dbb6584f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091230.165333.10765.68357@mailpop07.dca.untd.com>
	<751d05480912302252g2bacffc0x27462394dbb6584f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0912311855v45742b90v9df884d0a63f3f8c@mail.gmail.com>

Good WAG. I just checked one and it's 1/4 BSF.

Marv J

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 11:52 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>wrote:

> Doug,
>
> Just off the top of my head I think it's 1/4 BSF but that's just a WAG.
> I'll check in the AM.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 4:53 PM, dwflagg <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know the thread size for the SU float lid nut? TIA
> >
> > Doug
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Diet Help
> > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here.
> >
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=ZiDghraHXIsYK8UgIpEDBAAAJ1B-9ttc3k1I_21D8YCzT29EAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA=
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive