[Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump

[Bob Spidell]

I think the fuel components use Whitworth threads.  I've never seen a repair kit 
for Whitworth stuff; if it exists you'll spend an arm and a leg for it.  I don't 
know how you could jury-rig a "modern" repair--the banjo bolts are unique.  I 
also haven't seen many old British car carcasses in any junk yards--at least in 
the States--they've long since been picked over or salvaged (or crushed :(

Realistically, I think you're going to have to spring for a new pump.  If it's 
the "square body" type well, there goes your other arm and leg (for some reason 
the square body pumps are almost three times any other).  If you do end up 
buying new, I recommend the SU electronic version.  I had niggling pump problems 
for years--I have enough parts to put together two-and-a-half, probably--but 
since installing an electronic SU I've had no problems in over 20K miles.  Worth 
the extra $40 or so.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news (at least, a unpleasant opinion).


Bob




Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Ray - by the time you pay for a thread repair kit, it'll be cheaper to
> get a new pump.
> 
> I'd try going to any local british garage or junk yard (if in you
> area) they quite likely have an old pump you can strip of it's body
> then put on your good pump.  Any SU pump from a 'mid 60's vintage LBC
> will work - Jags, MGBs, triumphs, they all basically used the same
> pump.  If the pump body looks the same as your pump, it'll work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 4/26/09, Ray Carbone <racarbon at optonline.net> wrote:
>> Any repair ideas?  A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over
>> enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt.  Result . a stripped SU
>> AUF 305 outlet housing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ray Carbone
>>
>> 64 BJ8 Phase 1

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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

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