From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Apr  1 01:29:10 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy)
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 22:29:10 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] 2008 Targa Newfoundland
Message-ID: <72ac8a70.112a.4ceb.83ae.7c1325c189ca@aol.com>

Just saw the 2008 version of the Targa Newfoundland on the Speed Channel. Show started with Michael's smiling face and caught several shots of the Austin Healey. Some very interesting roads up there. 
Aloha
Perry 

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 09:39:03 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 09:39:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys]  FW: Healey gearbox, rear end,
 driveshaft problems.   MAYBE  SOLVED?
Message-ID: <7733AEAF-ABF0-4D31-8BFE-D55E921B3AB7@comcast.net>

Randy,

I may have the answer to your question about the side-to-side movement  
of the first motion shaft.  Just yesterday I reassembled my gear box  
with the help of a couple of friends from the AH Club of Oregon.  When  
we got the box completely together we noticed the first motion shaft  
allowed some side-to-side movement of the first motion shaft.  I  
called the local Brit shop and asked if that was normal?  , could it  
be corrected?  I was told by the head of the British Car Works In  
North Plains, OR, west of Portland, this movement is normal and would  
be corrected when the shaft is in place mated up with the rear of the  
engine.

Marks3 

From alan.bromfield at virgin.net  Wed Apr  1 10:55:59 2009
From: alan.bromfield at virgin.net (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 18:55:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 7/8" Girling Master Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <749211.95404.qm@web86412.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <749211.95404.qm@web86412.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <26B7ED7BE5A5435A93D7E3AA25A0AEC9@Dell>

Hi David.
My Girling listing advises part number 3110421W used on the disc braked 3000
- 1961 on.

I've attached a scan of the page which the list will strip.

Cheers............
 
Alan Bromfield

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of D HALL
Sent: 31 March 2009 21:26
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 7/8" Girling Master Cylinder

Hi listers
Does anybody know the Girling part number for the 7/8" master cylinder.
Regards David Hall
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as alan.bromfield at virgin.net

http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healy 44.jpg]

From chester3dog at gmail.com  Wed Apr  1 11:32:04 2009
From: chester3dog at gmail.com (Chester Threedog)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:32:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument panel refinishing
In-Reply-To: <3DDBBD05.F83C.4C41.8380.D0A7EC6E6E86@aol.com>
References: <C5F6A066.1190%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<3DDBBD05.F83C.4C41.8380.D0A7EC6E6E86@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1b80a1c80904011132vd8bb77cx3a4a5f72c5f94dc4@mail.gmail.com>

Back in the day...before kids (my son is 27) I had the same problem.  I
followed the instructions on the paint remover can, use thick coat, wait 15
minutes and remove.  It would not even soften that crusty finish.  I tried
again but this time I got called away during my 15 minute wait.  When I
returned 8 hours later  the remover and the finish had crystalized.  Just
scraped it off.  I did this again on a few other BJ8 dashes with same
results.

Grins, Norby

On Tue, Mar 31, 2009 at 10:39 AM, billhuck <billhuck at aol.com> wrote:

>    Some 25 years back I returned a BJ8 dash to its original condition. It
> had
> the normal flaws, fine cracks each bordered by peeling yellowish areas.
> With
> thin sharp tools I peeled off all those areas, maybe a third of the dash. I
> then flowed on a clear 2-part epoxy resin on the peeled areas. The resin
> wet
> the veneer, bringing its color back. It also wet the edges of the original
> epoxy.
>    I used 'EnviroTex Lite', stock #2032, two pint bottles mixed one to
> one..
> Environmental Technology Inc. Fields Landing, CA 95537.
>    I drove the car another five years; the dash remained pristine.     Bill
> Huck,  BN1
>
> On Mar 30, 2009, at 6:14:30 PM, "Michael Hartfield"
> <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu> wrote:
> From:   "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
> Subject:    Re: [Healeys] Instrument panel refinishing
> Date:   March 30, 2009 6:14:30 PM CDT
> To: Ghess4 <ghess4 at cox.net>, healeys at autox.team.net
> I have the same problem. I have used Homer Formby's on furniture in the
> past and it dissolves the existing finish but does not remove it. The
> patina is left intact. They then recommend finishing with Tung Oil which
> can be put on with a rag.
>
>
> Ghess4ghess4 at cox.net
>
> > Greetings,
> > Has anyone done a refinish of the Instrument panel on their BJ8? I
> believe
> > that mine are original and appear to have a very heavy epoxy like
> polished
> > appearance however there are a couple of cracks in the finish coating. I
> have
> > found nothing that will soften the finish so that it can be scraped off
> and
> at
> > this point I am afraid to start sanding since it would be difficult to
> tell
> > when the veneer is exposed. Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Gale Hess
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as billhuck at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as chester3dog at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From al at bighealey.org  Wed Apr  1 13:22:25 2009
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:22:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test
In-Reply-To: <0C03286BE9AE4DE08FC9BBA6A5A6052E@michael>
References: <003d01c9b083$f208b0f0$d61a12d0$@com><121B0C74CDA549F3964D34ADC2524340@michael>
	<000101c9b0d0$3444cca0$9cce65e0$@com>
	<0C03286BE9AE4DE08FC9BBA6A5A6052E@michael>
Message-ID: <002901c9b307$953a78f0$bfaf6ad0$@org>

Nope ...

Al Fuller
al at bighealey.org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2009 7:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Test

Hello!!! Anybody out there???

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Apr  1 13:35:57 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:35:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
Message-ID: <20090401163557.1QLA5.119524.root@mp20>

Well known British car restorer and long time fixture in the California club racing scene Ralph Chechonit heads a new company (CHEC) with a unique offering to battle the raising costs of gas.  The new cars to be produced involve retrofitting older lightweight British and Italian Sports cars with moder Hybrid drivetrains. The new venture leverages older classic cars and new hybrid and electronic technology.  A company spokesperson collaborated rumors of large government involvement and the use of stimulus funds rather than traditional start up venture capital.

Having unveiled three prototypes including a convertible MGA, Austin Healey 100 BN2 model and an Alfa Romero GTV potential customers were clamoring to get orders in for their new cars. Spokesperson Debra Jaeger says company buyers have been buying up Austin Healeys and Alfa Romeros from eBay, Craigslist and private sellers in record fashion.  She said the cars are stripped of their old motors and transmissions and retro fitted with electric hybrid power trains supplied by their Chinese affiliate in Shanghai.  The interiors are replaced with synthetic velour in bright colors doing away with leather interiors that animal right activists might find offensive.  The exteriors are painted in your choice of flourscent green, dayglow orange or banana peel yellow.

The company has reportedly been buying large numbers of Austin Healeys and other cars as cores for their products.  Per company President Chechonit the old original cars are loud, clunky and useless as a practical form of transportation.  The resulting cars and much safer, more tame and lack the noisiness of the originals which typically are gross polluters anyway.  As he says we are taking useless old junk and making a real useful and desirable product.

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Wed Apr  1 13:53:53 2009
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:53:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <20090401163557.1QLA5.119524.root@mp20>
References: <20090401163557.1QLA5.119524.root@mp20>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W2489DBD9E5E04E6F587EA8A18B0@phx.gbl>

              Sounds like a good April Fooler???

   WD  67 BJ8


> Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:35:57 -0700
> From: bighealey at charter.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
>
> Well known British car restorer and long time fixture in the California club
racing scene Ralph Chechonit heads a new company (CHEC) with a unique offering
to battle the raising costs of gas.  The new cars to be produced involve
retrofitting older lightweight British and Italian Sports cars with moder
Hybrid drivetrains. The new venture leverages older classic cars and new
hybrid and electronic technology.  A company spokesperson collaborated rumors
of large government involvement and the use of stimulus funds rather than
traditional start up venture capital.
>
> Having unveiled three prototypes including a convertible MGA, Austin Healey
100 BN2 model and an Alfa Romero GTV potential customers were clamoring to get
orders in for their new cars. Spokesperson Debra Jaeger says company buyers
have been buying up Austin Healeys and Alfa Romeros from eBay, Craigslist and
private sellers in record fashion.  She said the cars are stripped of their
old motors and transmissions and retro fitted with electric hybrid power
trains supplied by their Chinese affiliate in Shanghai.  The interiors are
replaced with synthetic velour in bright colors doing away with leather
interiors that animal right activists might find offensive.  The exteriors are
painted in your choice of flourscent green, dayglow orange or banana peel
yellow.
>
> The company has reportedly been buying large numbers of Austin Healeys and
other cars as cores for their products.  Per company President Chechonit the
old original cars are loud, clunky and useless as a practical form of
transportation.  The resulting cars and much safer, more tame and lack the
noisiness of the originals which typically are gross polluters anyway.  As he
says we are taking useless old junk and making a real useful and desirable
product.
> _______________________________________________


_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Upda
tes1_042009

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Apr  1 14:53:31 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 17:53:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
Message-ID: <cc9.4cacd1d0.37053c5b@aol.com>

If the length of the vertical leg of a right triangle is 8 and the
hypoteneus is 10 what is the length of the horizontal leg?

Thanks--Michael Oritt
**************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops b Starting at $399
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubl
eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)

From autofarm at cyg.net  Wed Apr  1 14:54:48 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 17:54:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
References: <cc9.4cacd1d0.37053c5b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0C540C9690B64BE18EA29AE9D86DD1B9@OFFICE>

    6
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Awgertoo at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 5:53 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed


> If the length of the vertical leg of a right triangle is 8 and the
> hypoteneus is 10 what is the length of the horizontal leg?
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt
> **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops b Starting at $399
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http
> :%2F%2Fad.doubl
> eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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06:06:00

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 15:01:51 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:01:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <20090401163557.1QLA5.119524.root@mp20>
References: <20090401163557.1QLA5.119524.root@mp20>
Message-ID: <A3C5857D-025B-4565-8854-8D8B3634A0B0@cox.net>

Neil Young did it to an Lincoln as an example to raise awareness.

http://www.hybridcars.com/news2/neil-young-linc-volt-hybrid.html

On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:35 PM, <bighealey at charter.net>  
<bighealey at charter.net> wrote:

> Well known British car restorer and long time fixture in the  
> California club racing scene Ralph Chechonit heads a new company  
> (CHEC) with a unique offering to battle the raising costs of gas.   
> The new cars to be produced involve retrofitting older lightweight  
> British and Italian Sports cars with moder Hybrid drivetrains...

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 15:09:05 2009
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:09:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
Message-ID: <367906.13916.qm@web110203.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I have a close-up pic of a new fuel efficient drive train in a 56 BN2 at

http://www.austin-healey.org/node/11?size=_original

Bert

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Apr  1 15:36:13 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:36:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <367906.13916.qm@web110203.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <367906.13916.qm@web110203.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F0C0223E74DA422F94ED6781FA9BA84E@LeonardPCPC>

Happy April 1st.  But - I remember seeing an electric conversion in an MGB 
at a car show not too long ago.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Apr  1 15:38:04 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:38:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <A3C5857D-025B-4565-8854-8D8B3634A0B0@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20090401183804.NDATV.127362.root@mp20>

Eric,

Very cool indeed.  I was aware that he did this but thought it was a Hearse.

I am driving the Green Meanie (MG Midget) today and thought I might criuse over Skyline Drive past Neil's Broken Arrow Ranch which is on my way.

I am lso looking into a CHEC.

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!

---- "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote: 
> Neil Young did it to an Lincoln as an example to raise awareness.
> 
> http://www.hybridcars.com/news2/neil-young-linc-volt-hybrid.html
> 
> On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:35 PM, <bighealey at charter.net>  
> <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> > Well known British car restorer and long time fixture in the  
> > California club racing scene Ralph Chechonit heads a new company  
> > (CHEC) with a unique offering to battle the raising costs of gas.   
> > The new cars to be produced involve retrofitting older lightweight  
> > British and Italian Sports cars with moder Hybrid drivetrains...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Apr  1 15:39:28 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:39:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <367906.13916.qm@web110203.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090401183928.1XXK6.127461.root@mp20>

Bert,

probaly have to add lots-o-Guinness to keep it happy tho.


---- Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> 
> I have a close-up pic of a new fuel efficient drive train in a 56 BN2 at
> 
> http://www.austin-healey.org/node/11?size=_original
> 
> Bert

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Apr  1 15:41:23 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 15:41:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CHEC - Classic Hybrid Electric Car
In-Reply-To: <F0C0223E74DA422F94ED6781FA9BA84E@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <20090401184123.5BV3V.127585.root@mp20>

My currewnt MG Midget motor came for one of those crazy Californians who converted to electric.  It was really clean but every available spot had a battery.

---- Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: 
> Happy April 1st.  But - I remember seeing an electric conversion in an MGB 
> at a car show not too long ago.
> 
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  1 16:49:50 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 17:49:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <0C540C9690B64BE18EA29AE9D86DD1B9@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEBMCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<    6
Cheers.......Bob>>

Sorry but NO, Bob !!!

"Down" here 'New Math' is still taught in some of 
our lower level (age wise) schools and therefore 
the answer IS:

33 1/3 !!!

Regards...

Ed

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  1 16:10:46 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:10:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEBMCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <0C540C9690B64BE18EA29AE9D86DD1B9@OFFICE>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEBMCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>

I come up with 6 also The proof is the  Pythagorean Theorem where you take
the square root of the sum of the square of the horizontal side plus the
square of the base with the answer being the hypotenuse. One side being 6 -
36, one side being 8 = 64 the sum of which is 100 and the square root of
which is 10. Thus the missing number is 6.

That is the OLD math - Ed -- several thousands of years old. And, still
holds true today. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed's Shop
Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 7:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed

<<    6
Cheers.......Bob>>

Sorry but NO, Bob !!!

"Down" here 'New Math' is still taught in some of 
our lower level (age wise) schools and therefore 
the answer IS:

33 1/3 !!!

Regards...

Ed
_______________________________________________

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 16:14:43 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:14:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>
References: <0C540C9690B64BE18EA29AE9D86DD1B9@OFFICE>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEBMCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>
Message-ID: <250F4D0D-584C-4109-A1FC-E9DCD3732B06@cox.net>

As told to us by the Scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz just after he gets  
his degree!

On Apr 1, 2009, at 4:10 PM, John Sims wrote:
> ...
> The proof is the  Pythagorean Theorem where you take
> the square root of the sum of the square of the horizontal side  
> plus the
> square of the base with the answer being the hypotenuse.

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 16:17:01 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:17:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>
Message-ID: <20090401191701.5VAUF.590348.imail@eastrmwml45>

And John it always handy to remember the rule of 3,4,5.  3 squared + 4 squared = 5 squared.  Helps to easily check things for square and applicable in any unit.

Keith Pennell

---- John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote: 
> I come up with 6 also The proof is the  Pythagorean Theorem where you take
> the square root of the sum of the square of the horizontal side plus the
> square of the base with the answer being the hypotenuse. One side being 6 -
> 36, one side being 8 = 64 the sum of which is 100 and the square root of
> which is 10. Thus the missing number is 6.
> 
> That is the OLD math - Ed -- several thousands of years old. And, still
> holds true today. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ed's Shop
> Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 7:50 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
> 
> <<    6
> Cheers.......Bob>>
> 
> Sorry but NO, Bob !!!
> 
> "Down" here 'New Math' is still taught in some of 
> our lower level (age wise) schools and therefore 
> the answer IS:
> 
> 33 1/3 !!!
> 
> Regards...
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 16:20:36 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:20:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
Message-ID: <20090401192036.I35TU.590369.imail@eastrmwml45>

Listers,

A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.  He got no replies so is offering it again.  He will cut the price from $500 to $400.

Contact me off list if interested.

Keith Pennell

From bowering at sympatico.ca  Wed Apr  1 16:26:31 2009
From: bowering at sympatico.ca (Ken & Sue Bowering)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:26:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <20090401191701.5VAUF.590348.imail@eastrmwml45>
References: <004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>
	<20090401191701.5VAUF.590348.imail@eastrmwml45>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP94042857DDCAB488DCA0D4BC8B0@phx.gbl>

I'm surprised that someone didn't ask whether the "8" and "10" were measured
in inches, feet, yards, miles, centimetres, metres, or kilometres.

By the way, although it may be implicit, the rule only applies to right
triangles.
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of pennell at cox.net
Sent: April-01-09 7:17 PM
To: John Sims; 'Ed's Shop'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed

And John it always handy to remember the rule of 3,4,5.  3 squared + 4
squared = 5 squared.  Helps to easily check things for square and applicable
in any unit.

Keith Pennell

---- John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote: 
> I come up with 6 also The proof is the  Pythagorean Theorem where you 
> take the square root of the sum of the square of the horizontal side 
> plus the square of the base with the answer being the hypotenuse. One 
> side being 6 - 36, one side being 8 = 64 the sum of which is 100 and 
> the square root of which is 10. Thus the missing number is 6.
> 
> That is the OLD math - Ed -- several thousands of years old. And, 
> still holds true today. See: 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ed's Shop
> Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 7:50 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
> 
> <<    6
> Cheers.......Bob>>
> 
> Sorry but NO, Bob !!!
> 
> "Down" here 'New Math' is still taught in some of our lower level (age 
> wise) schools and therefore the answer IS:
> 
> 33 1/3 !!!
> 
> Regards...
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as pennell at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bowering at sympatico.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  1 17:30:54 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 18:30:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
In-Reply-To: <20090401192036.I35TU.590369.imail@eastrmwml45>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMECACPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.>>

For What, Ken??	MGB??

From 57healey at gmail.com  Wed Apr  1 16:47:54 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 18:47:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday to my Healey
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904011647k3af19898y3abfb465cf7ed034@mail.gmail.com>

No joke, my Healey turned 52 today.   For a present the Craigslist Top Bows
arrived via UPS.
I may drink a pint in the garage later to help calibrate.

Patton

-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 16:53:14 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:53:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday to my Healey
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904011647k3af19898y3abfb465cf7ed034@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904011647k3af19898y3abfb465cf7ed034@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <87D27A44-05FB-46FD-AA63-BFBE5B54EBF2@cox.net>

Happy Birthday to your car.

Calibrating the birthday is a good idea. If you were an alcoholic you  
might Kalibrate.

On Apr 1, 2009, at 4:47 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:

> No joke, my Healey turned 52 today.   For a present the Craigslist  
> Top Bows
> arrived via UPS.
> I may drink a pint in the garage later to help calibrate.
>
> Patton
>
> -- 
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 1977 Newport '28
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Apr  1 16:54:01 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:54:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
In-Reply-To: <20090401192036.I35TU.590369.imail@eastrmwml45>
References: <20090401192036.I35TU.590369.imail@eastrmwml45>
Message-ID: <49D3FE99.5020302@earthlink.net>

Keith,

For what model of Healey?

Bob

pennell at cox.net wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.  He got no replies so is offering it again.  He will cut the price from $500 to $400.
> 
> Contact me off list if interested.

From 57healey at gmail.com  Wed Apr  1 17:32:37 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:32:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday to my Healey
In-Reply-To: <87D27A44-05FB-46FD-AA63-BFBE5B54EBF2@cox.net>
References: <743b1e2f0904011647k3af19898y3abfb465cf7ed034@mail.gmail.com>
	<87D27A44-05FB-46FD-AA63-BFBE5B54EBF2@cox.net>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904011732m367b8917ib10be3e36f53fc30@mail.gmail.com>

I need to quite relying on the spell checker reading my mind.

On 4/1/09, Eric (Rick) Wilkins <e-wilkins at cox.net> wrote:
> Happy Birthday to your car.
>
> Calibrating the birthday is a good idea. If you were an alcoholic you
> might Kalibrate.
>
> On Apr 1, 2009, at 4:47 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:
>
>> No joke, my Healey turned 52 today.   For a present the Craigslist
>> Top Bows
>> arrived via UPS.
>> I may drink a pint in the garage later to help calibrate.
>>
>> Patton
>>
>> --
>> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
>> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
>> 1977 Newport '28
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  1 18:39:12 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 19:39:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday to my Healey
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904011647k3af19898y3abfb465cf7ed034@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJAECDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<I may drink a pint in the garage later to help calibrate.>>

The carbs ????

Oh no, here we go again<G>!!!

Seriously tho, what is HER name ????

Ed

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 18:04:09 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 18:04:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Apparently ...
Message-ID: <49D40F09.60708@comcast.net>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 19:34:22 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:34:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Apparently
Message-ID: <49D4242E.1010701@comcast.net>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 19:36:35 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:36:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Apparently (having trouble with List)
Message-ID: <49D424B3.8090507@comcast.net>

/CwY0uh: Permission denied

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 19:47:27 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 19:47:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] TEST DELETE
Message-ID: <49D4273F.4080807@comcast.net>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything 
that counts can be counted." -- Albert Einstein
*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr  1 19:50:20 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 10:50:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] TEST DELETE
In-Reply-To: <49D4273F.4080807@comcast.net>
References: <49D4273F.4080807@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904011950o508b2db3jd559a4d14766fc2f@mail.gmail.com>

Hey, Bob, that one worked!  I can see everything now.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> "Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts
> can be counted." -- Albert Einstein
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  1 19:54:06 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 2009 22:54:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Apparently ...
Message-ID: <005601c9b33e$4a303f70$de90be50$@net>

This is the posting that Bob Spidel is trying to send to the list

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com

From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 10:36 PM
To: John Sims
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apparently ...

 

Hi John,

The List is eating my emails.  I sent:

... our cars are Austins, not Healeys:

http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4193
<http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4193&prod_
group=Cars%20Vans%20&%20Trucks&> &prod_group=Cars%20Vans%20&%20Trucks&


For Ed:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/dfstcx



bob


John Sims wrote: 

?????
 
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 9:04 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Apparently ...
 
 






-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
 
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything 
that counts can be counted." -- Albert Einstein
*******************************************************************

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Apr  1 19:58:04 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 22:58:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
In-Reply-To: <20090401192036.I35TU.590369.imail@eastrmwml45>
Message-ID: <20090401225804.F8JYG.407070.imail@eastrmwml41>

---- pennell at cox.net wrote: 
> Listers,
> 
> A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.  He got no replies so is offering it again.  He will cut the price from $500 to $400.
> 
> Contact me off list if interested.
> 
> Keith Pennell


TO THE 11 OF YOU WHO RESPONDED . . . . . . . . . . . 
(scroll down)











































DUH . . .  . . . . IT WAS A YEAR AGO AFTER ALL
APRIL FOOLS!!!!!!!!!!!

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  1 21:12:51 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 22:12:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Right triangle dimension needed
In-Reply-To: <004001c9b31f$17172280$45456780$@net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGECHCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<I come up with 6 also The proof is the  Pythagorean Theorem...>>

And it is the EXACT same deal to the 3 'biters' of 33 1/3 !!!!!

LMAO

(except that I AM 'hurt' as I only got THREE, Keith<G> !! )

April Fools, guys !!!!<VBG>

From westonkeyes at hotmail.com  Thu Apr  2 05:12:10 2009
From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:12:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8 ?
Message-ID: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>

Hello Folks,

    This is a niggly point, I know

What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the filler
pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured with
chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head screws
with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there?

Thanks

Wes Keyes
York,Maine

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 05:45:42 2009
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 05:45:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bathurst
Message-ID: <426682.10365.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Visiting Australia this week and had an opporunity to visit the race course at
Bathurst today. 
What an experience!  Just drive onto the course and drive a
lap or two.  I've been on several 
tracks in the States(not racing) and none
of them have a distinct advantage over Mt Panorama. 

I was driving a left had
drive Suzuiki SUV and still had a great time, the 2 hour trip to get there
was well worth the effort just to get the chance to drive the course. You AU
racers certainly 
should be proud of your corse and the opportunity to race on
it. 

Bob
AN5
BT7

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Apr  2 06:21:43 2009
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:21:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] anyone restoring a MKIII Sprite MKII Midget?
Message-ID: <002d01c9b395$f8d88c10$ea89a430$@com>

I am in the process of culling the herd.

 

I have a MKIII Sprite project that I've had for many years. Rocky. A
gorgeous new interior had been installed, but  a now defunct raccoon
destroyed it. 

 

All the body work was completed in metal, and the paint work (red) on it is
exceptional. 

 

It has a new wiring harness installed. The suspension is detailed, and the
chassis is a roller. There is no interior. The original 1098 engine is
available, but certainly needs a rebuild. 

 

I am not sure I can provide a title for this. 

 

If someone is restoring a MKII Midget/MKIII Sprite, rather than go through
all the effort and expense of metal, body and paint work, this might be an
attractive alternative for you. Or, if you'd like to go racing, this would
be a great start.

 

Pictures are available, probably by the weekend, as the car is currently in
the trailer.

 

The car is located in central Wisconsin.

 

$2500

 

(for another $200, you can also have a Sprite-worthy trailer with it.)

 

WST

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Apr  2 07:50:17 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 10:50:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8  ?
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a06200700c5fa80a0399f@[192.168.0.102]>

Actually, while we're on the subject,; does anyone have a pattern for 
this piece? My car is missing the original, so I haven't got anything 
to use as a template.
Stephen, BJ8

>Hello Folks,
>
>     This is a niggly point, I know
>
>What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the filler
>pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured with
>chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head screws
>with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there?
>
>Thanks
>
>Wes Keyes
>York,Maine

From pennell at cox.net  Thu Apr  2 08:00:28 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:00:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
In-Reply-To: <20090401225804.F8JYG.407070.imail@eastrmwml41>
Message-ID: <20090402110028.KZSW7.219644.imail@eastrmwml28>

---- pennell at cox.net wrote: 
> ---- pennell at cox.net wrote: 
> > Listers,
> > 
> > A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.  He got no replies so is offering it again.  He will cut the price from $500 to $400.
> > 
> > Contact me off list if interested.
> > 
> > Keith Pennell
> 
> 
> CORRECTION:  TO THE 17 OF YOU WHO RESPONDED . . . . . . . . . . . 
> (scroll down)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DUH . . .  . . . . IT WAS A YEAR AGO AFTER ALL
> APRIL FOOLS!!!!!!!!!!!

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 08:40:42 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 23:40:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8  ?
In-Reply-To: <a06200700c5fa80a0399f@192.168.0.102>
References: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
	<a06200700c5fa80a0399f@192.168.0.102>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904020840m97d630fw1456738a8731f908@mail.gmail.com>

Why not just buy a new one?  It's not expensive....

On 4/2/09, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> Actually, while we're on the subject,; does anyone have a pattern for
> this piece? My car is missing the original, so I haven't got anything
> to use as a template.
> Stephen, BJ8
>
>>Hello Folks,
>>
>>     This is a niggly point, I know
>>
>>What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the filler
>>pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured with
>>chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head screws
>>with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Wes Keyes
>>York,Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From medlabinc at msn.com  Thu Apr  2 08:45:02 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:45:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
Message-ID: <COL109-DS20ED6EDD35693FE70F5242A2880@phx.gbl>

Time for an oil change.

Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and why ?

DM / Bj8

From f9cougar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 08:46:20 2009
From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 08:46:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
Message-ID: <200386.81965.qm@web34805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It didn't sell? That's insane! - JRC

--- On Wed, 4/1/09, pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net> wrote:


From: pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, April 1, 2009, 4:20 PM


Listers,

A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop for sale for a friend.  He got
no replies so is offering it again.  He will cut the price from $500 to $400.

Contact me off list if interested.

Keith Pennell
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as f9cougar at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Apr  2 09:01:39 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 12:01:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS20ED6EDD35693FE70F5242A2880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090402120139.6B95S.168222.root@mp08>

Castrol 20/50 

has ZDDP

---- Dick Matson <medlabinc at msn.com> wrote: 
> Time for an oil change.
> 
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and why ?
> 
> DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 09:07:59 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 12:07:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <20090402120139.6B95S.168222.root@mp08>
References: <20090402120139.6B95S.168222.root@mp08>
Message-ID: <5E645554-73EC-4C77-A7F7-45767A21BAE2@gmail.com>

Oh boy, here we go again.....  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com


On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:01 PM, <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:

> Castrol 20/50
>
> has ZDDP
>
> ---- Dick Matson <medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:
>> Time for an oil change.
>>
>> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and  
>> why ?
>>
>> DM / Bj8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr  2 09:25:40 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 12:25:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8 ?
References: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
	<a06200700c5fa80a0399f@[192.168.0.102]>
Message-ID: <4DC9D447B09046FD9C1DFC0B9E909DBE@ophrdc.org>

Steve,

This piece is available separately. It is die cut out of a vinyl grained 
black mill board, with fold seams embossed, etc. so it's not something you'd 
"home make". It always comes with the boot lining Armacord kits anyway.

Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8 ?


> Actually, while we're on the subject,; does anyone have a pattern for this 
> piece? My car is missing the original, so I haven't got anything to use as 
> a template.
> Stephen, BJ8
>
>>Hello Folks,
>>
>>     This is a niggly point, I know
>>
>>What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the 
>>filler
>>pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured 
>>with
>>chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head 
>>screws
>>with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Wes Keyes
>>York,Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Thu Apr  2 09:34:21 2009
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:34:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
Message-ID: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E1A7141@SERVER.acrea.local>

Listers -



I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
lights that can do what I need to do?



Thank you.



Price Lindsay

67 BJ 8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 09:51:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:51:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8 ?
In-Reply-To: <a06200700c5fa80a0399f@[192.168.0.102]>
Message-ID: <1718764211.3003111238691064541.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Folks, 

Please keep replies and info 'on List' ... I'm interested in this too. 


Bob 




Actually, while we're on the subject,; does anyone have a pattern for 
this piece? My car is missing the original, so I haven't got anything 
to use as a template. 
Stephen, BJ8 

>Hello Folks, 
> 
> This is a niggly point, I know 
> 
>What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the filler 
>pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured with 
>chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head screws 
>with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there? 
> 
>Thanks 
> 
>Wes Keyes 
>York,Maine 
_______________________________________________ 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 09:55:44 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:55:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS20ED6EDD35693FE70F5242A2880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <264713947.3005601238691344400.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I've always done well by Chevron Supreme 20W-50, 'cause I (used to) get it at Costco for $18/case. For a bit more jack Valvoline VR1 Racing is good stuff, too. Castrol 20W-50 GTX didn't seem to give as much pressure when hot. 

I've come to believe that most, if not all of the 20W-50s have enough ZDDP. 

Bob 





Time for an oil change. 

Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and why ? 

DM / Bj8 
_______________________________________________ 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Apr  2 10:29:30 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 10:29:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8  ?
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-W18CBF1BC52B9AC6731216ABA880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5A24FBB9BAD84585943C4266C115E0BD@LeonardPCPC>

Wes:  To answer your question, I believe that my Healey is original in this 
area.  It has always been just the Phillips head screws.  No finishing 
washers.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Weston Keyes" <westonkeyes at hotmail.com>
To: "Ahealey Ahealey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 5:12 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8 ?


> Hello Folks,
>
>    This is a niggly point, I know
>
> What fasteners arre correct for holding the cardboard panel over the 
> filler
> pipe in the boot of a late BJ8? The Concourse guidelines say: "secured 
> with
> chrome Phillips pan head screws". My vendor went me chrome oval head 
> screws
> with finishing washers for this application. Any originals out there?
>
> Thanks
>
> Wes Keyes
> York,Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  2 10:33:54 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 10:33:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <COL109-DS20ED6EDD35693FE70F5242A2880@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-DS20ED6EDD35693FE70F5242A2880@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6BE7A22D-A4CB-4B21-88D5-17CB9052D9F7@sbcglobal.net>

You are asking for trouble on this one. Now let the blasts begin.

	We use two different oils in all the cars we service depending on  
what someone want to spend

		1. Castrol GTX 20/50  has a decent amount of ZDDP additive to  
protect the motor.

		2. Red Line synthetic 10/40 has the highest amount of ZDDP additive  
that you can get.

My personal choice is the Red Line, they have a speciality  
performance only oil and have not gone after the federal regulations  
on the ZDDP.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:45 AM, Dick Matson wrote:

> Time for an oil change.
>
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and  
> why ?
>
> DM / Bj8

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Apr  2 10:37:43 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 13:37:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners securing cardboard fuel filler pipe BJ8  ?
Message-ID: <a06200705c5faa845a2a3@[192.168.0.102]>

I see whay you mean. But when I saw something that would be so simple 
to make, it didn't even occur to me to see if they were in the 
catalogues.

Stephen

>Why not just buy a new one?  It's not expensive....
>
>On 4/2/09, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>>  Actually, while we're on the subject,; does anyone have a pattern for
>>  this piece? My car is missing the original, so I haven't got anything
>>  to use as a template.
>  > Stephen, BJ8

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Apr  2 10:51:32 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 13:51:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 213
Message-ID: <d65.35ad201a.37065524@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/2/09 10:31:18 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> 
> Time for an oil change.
> 
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and why ?
> 
> DM / Bj8
> 

Oh, gosh...what fun. Let's all dig our hands into this old can of worms.

I'll start: Valvoline VR-1 20-50 Racing Oil. Now, someone say Castrol 20-50, 
someone say Royal Purple, someone say Pennrite, and I'll counter with the best 
there is: Torco, at $10 a quart (which I run in my race car because of the 
higher level of metal protection -- have you priced a race engine rebuild 
lately?) The correct answer, I submit, is any standard branded oil as long as it's 
20W50.

Gary Anderson


**************
Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make 
dinner for $10 or less. 
(http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 11:03:43 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:03:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
Message-ID: <4D8A9382-078A-4FFD-9BA6-B0AB9DD6E26D@comcast.net>

Sirs,

I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in my boot are  
Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are approximately 5 mm in  
diameter.  I didn't extract any to measure the length but I recall  
they are not very long.  They are definitely not Philips head screws  
and they are the original Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at  
the time of manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same  
fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If you  
need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me know.

Marks3

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 11:15:56 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:15:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Template for BJ8 Fuel Pipe Cardboard
Message-ID: <E1D09151-C13C-42E8-9B08-628557622209@comcast.net>

Steve,

Actually, I believe I have the original cardboard from my car.  Years  
ago when I painted the car I made my own replacement cardboard but I  
kept the original just in case I needed to make another.  I can make a  
tracing of the outline and indicate the fold points.  If you will let  
me know your snail mail address I will mail it to you.  Give me a  
couple of days to get to that project.  I have a complete tranny/ 
overdrive/ and clutch job in progress.
The gear box is back together. The annulus section of the OD is done.   
I am waiting for a replacement bearing for the OD clutch and I have  
all the other new OD parts needed sitting on the family room bar.  I  
intend to finish this project before I start tracing cardboard cut  
outs.  Of course by the time I complete the current job my state of  
mental health may be well and thoroughly challenged by cutting out  
card board.

Marks3

From DENewman2 at aol.com  Thu Apr  2 11:33:47 2009
From: DENewman2 at aol.com (DENewman2 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 14:33:47 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
Message-ID: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>

I also checked my car this morning. Pozidrive  1/2 ".
I am the original owner so I am sure that is how the car came from the  
factory.
 
Don

 
 
In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:08:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mandmschneider at comcast.net writes:

Sirs,

I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in  my boot are  
Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are  approximately 5 mm in  
diameter.  I didn't extract any to  measure the length but I recall  
they are not very long.  They  are definitely not Philips head screws  
and they are the original  Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at  
the time of  manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same   
fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If  you  
need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me  know.

Marks3
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  denewman2 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 or 
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 11:38:00 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:38:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>

Sirs,

Like Don Newman, I know the history of My car.  I bought it from the  
original owner forty years ago so I know the fasteners in the boot are  
the original hardware.  They are Pozidrive.  I guess that means the  
Concours Committee has relaxed the requirement and will accept a look- 
alike Phillips head???

Marks3


On Apr 2, 2009, at 11:33 AM, DENewman2 at aol.com wrote:

> I also checked my car this morning. Pozidrive  1/2 ".
> I am the original owner so I am sure that is how the car came from  
> the factory.
>
> Don
>
> In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:08:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mandmschneider at comcast.net 
>  writes:
> Sirs,
>
> I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in my boot are
> Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are approximately 5 mm in
> diameter.  I didn't extract any to measure the length but I recall
> they are not very long.  They are definitely not Philips head screws
> and they are the original Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at
> the time of manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same
> fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If you
> need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me know.
>
> Marks3
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as denewman2 at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less.

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Apr  2 11:40:22 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:40:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Template for BJ8 Fuel Pipe Cardboard
In-Reply-To: <E1D09151-C13C-42E8-9B08-628557622209@comcast.net>
References: <E1D09151-C13C-42E8-9B08-628557622209@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5E602F311CC14D9382EF6C46678DD4D6@ecarecenters.net>

If you think your mental health is fragile now, wait until you try to mate
the overdrive with the transmission.....drove me nuts.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Schneider
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 11:16 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Template for BJ8 Fuel Pipe Cardboard

Steve,

Actually, I believe I have the original cardboard from my car.  Years  
ago when I painted the car I made my own replacement cardboard but I  
kept the original just in case I needed to make another.  I can make a  
tracing of the outline and indicate the fold points.  If you will let  
me know your snail mail address I will mail it to you.  Give me a  
couple of days to get to that project.  I have a complete tranny/ 
overdrive/ and clutch job in progress.
The gear box is back together. The annulus section of the OD is done.   
I am waiting for a replacement bearing for the OD clutch and I have  
all the other new OD parts needed sitting on the family room bar.  I  
intend to finish this project before I start tracing cardboard cut  
outs.  Of course by the time I complete the current job my state of  
mental health may be well and thoroughly challenged by cutting out  
card board.

Marks3
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Apr  2 11:44:25 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:44:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Template for BJ8 Fuel Pipe Cardboard (early funny-?)
In-Reply-To: <5E602F311CC14D9382EF6C46678DD4D6@ecarecenters.net>
References: <E1D09151-C13C-42E8-9B08-628557622209@comcast.net>
	<5E602F311CC14D9382EF6C46678DD4D6@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <DD7BB3C5-D2D9-4D0A-8DC5-0D061D42E3FB@cox.net>

Reminds me of the guy with the steering wheel stuck to the front of  
his pants.

I asked him what it was for and he said,


















"It's drivin' me nuts!"






On Apr 2, 2009, at 11:40 AM, PG wrote:

> .....drove me nuts.
>
> Paul

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Apr  2 11:53:58 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 14:53:58 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
Message-ID: <caa.41b9d689.370663c6@aol.com>

I'm holding out for $300.00 on 4/1/10.

Best--Michael Oritt
-----------------------------------------------------

In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:46:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
f9cougar at yahoo.com writes:

It  didn't sell? That's insane! - JRC

--- On Wed, 4/1/09, pennell at cox.net  <pennell at cox.net> wrote:


From: pennell at cox.net  <pennell at cox.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Factory HT for sale
To:  healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, April 1, 2009, 4:20  PM


Listers,

A year ago I offered a pristine factory hardtop  for sale for a friend.  He
got
no replies so is offering it  again.  He will cut the price from $500 to
$400.




**************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops b Starting at $399
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220433304x1201394525/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubl
eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540718%3B35046385%3Be)

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr  2 12:10:00 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:10:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49D50D88.8@chello.nl>

Many would not know the difference between Phillips or Pozidrive.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Mark Schneider schreef:
> Sirs,
>
> Like Don Newman, I know the history of My car.  I bought it from the  
> original owner forty years ago so I know the fasteners in the boot are  
> the original hardware.  They are Pozidrive.  I guess that means the  
> Concours Committee has relaxed the requirement and will accept a look- 
> alike Phillips head???
>
> Marks3
>
>
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 11:33 AM, DENewman2 at aol.com wrote:
>
>   
>> I also checked my car this morning. Pozidrive  1/2 ".
>> I am the original owner so I am sure that is how the car came from  
>> the factory.
>>
>> Don
>>
>> In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:08:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mandmschneider at comcast.net 
>>  writes:
>> Sirs,
>>
>> I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in my boot are
>> Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are approximately 5 mm in
>> diameter.  I didn't extract any to measure the length but I recall
>> they are not very long.  They are definitely not Philips head screws
>> and they are the original Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at
>> the time of manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same
>> fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If you
>> need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me know.
>>
>> Marks3
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as denewman2 at aol.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less.
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.38/2037 - Release Date: 04/02/09 06:09:00

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Apr  2 12:18:18 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 15:18:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <6BE7A22D-A4CB-4B21-88D5-17CB9052D9F7@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20090402151818.Z0946.182925.root@mp11>

Dave,

No blasts from me on this one. GTX has been in my older cars for years with no ill effects.  

Cheers!

Tracy
---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> You are asking for trouble on this one. Now let the blasts begin.
> 
> 	We use two different oils in all the cars we service depending on  
> what someone want to spend
> 
> 		1. Castrol GTX 20/50  has a decent amount of ZDDP additive to  
> protect the motor.
> 
> 		2. Red Line synthetic 10/40 has the highest amount of ZDDP additive  
> that you can get.
> 
> My personal choice is the Red Line, they have a speciality  
> performance only oil and have not gone after the federal regulations  
> on the ZDDP.
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
> 
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
> 
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:45 AM, Dick Matson wrote:
> 
> > Time for an oil change.
> >
> > Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and  
> > why ?
> >
> > DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Apr  2 12:30:51 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 06:30:51 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Bathurst
In-Reply-To: <426682.10365.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <426682.10365.qm@web83903.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CB69A1BAAB384880BD0C159382CE5A52@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Bob

Glad you made it to the Mount and sorry that you didn't get a chance to drop
in and say hello.

Yes it is a most amazing circuit and unlike so many it's also a public road
when not close to racing. This means that it's possible to drive around the
circuit as many times as you like, providing you down exceed 60 kph.

Over Easter is the Festival of Sporting Cars race meeting at Bathurst with
480 competitors entered including close to a dozen Austin-Healeys, both big
and small. One of these will be Joe Armour's Le Mans Sprite. I'll be there!

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Brown
Sent: Thursday, 2 April 2009 11:46 PM
To: bugeye at yahoogroups.com
Cc: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Bathurst

Visiting Australia this week and had an opporunity to visit the race course
at
Bathurst today. 
What an experience!  Just drive onto the course and drive a
lap or two.  I've been on several 
tracks in the States(not racing) and none
of them have a distinct advantage over Mt Panorama. 

I was driving a left had
drive Suzuiki SUV and still had a great time, the 2 hour trip to get there
was well worth the effort just to get the chance to drive the course. You AU
racers certainly 
should be proud of your corse and the opportunity to race on
it. 

Bob
AN5
BT7
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as p_cquinn at tpg.com.au

http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Apr  2 13:46:34 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 13:46:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49D50D88.8@chello.nl>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
	<49D50D88.8@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4F5EFB91-864F-49A6-AE96-3EE16037339B@cox.net>

To the casual observer, they look the same.

For Posidriv, look for extra little cross between the normal Phillips  
looking "X".

On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:10 PM, Oudesluys wrote:

> Many would not know the difference between Phillips or Pozidrive.

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 15:26:09 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 17:26:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49D50D88.8@chello.nl>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
	<49D50D88.8@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>

Maybe not, but using a phillips in a pozidrive is a great way to damage 
the pozidrive.

Oudesluys wrote:
> Many would not know the difference between Phillips or Pozidrive.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Mark Schneider schreef:
>> Sirs,
>>
>> Like Don Newman, I know the history of My car.  I bought it from the  
>> original owner forty years ago so I know the fasteners in the boot 
>> are  the original hardware.  They are Pozidrive.  I guess that means 
>> the  Concours Committee has relaxed the requirement and will accept a 
>> look- alike Phillips head???
>>
>> Marks3
>>
>>
>> On Apr 2, 2009, at 11:33 AM, DENewman2 at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>  
>>> I also checked my car this morning. Pozidrive  1/2 ".
>>> I am the original owner so I am sure that is how the car came from  
>>> the factory.
>>>
>>> Don
>>>
>>> In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:08:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
>>> mandmschneider at comcast.net  writes:
>>> Sirs,
>>>
>>> I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in my boot are
>>> Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are approximately 5 mm in
>>> diameter.  I didn't extract any to measure the length but I recall
>>> they are not very long.  They are definitely not Philips head screws
>>> and they are the original Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at
>>> the time of manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same
>>> fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If you
>>> need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me know.
>>>
>>> Marks3
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as denewman2 at aol.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less.
>>>     
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 
>> 270.11.38/2037 - Release Date: 04/02/09 06:09:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 15:39:39 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:39:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJOEECCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Maybe not, but using a phillips in a pozidrive is a great way to damage
the pozidrive.>>

AND flat out RUIN the Phillips driver !!

I've seen it happen<G>!!  Ask your friendly Snap-On Dealer when the handles
where RED<G>!!  Most likely he'll say they never were<G>!!  They were!!
Film at 11:00!!

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 15:42:34 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:42:34 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <4F5EFB91-864F-49A6-AE96-3EE16037339B@cox.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<For Posidriv, look for extra little cross between the normal Phillips  
looking "X".>>

And if all else fails<G>, look in the fastener 'hole' and you WILL see
4 little teeth.

For those of you not knowing, they were invented for production line
use as they can be torqued down far better then Phillips.

Ed

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Thu Apr  2 14:49:09 2009
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 17:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJOEECCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJOEECCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <000601c9b3dc$dbd8df10$938a9d30$@com>

My father was a Snap On dealer in the 1970's.  He gave me my set of
pozidrive drivers.  The handles of the drivers he gave me are grey....(Yes,
I still have them; and use them on my BJ7 and BJ8)

Thanks
-skip-


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed's Shop
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 6:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe,
BJ8

<<Maybe not, but using a phillips in a pozidrive is a great way to damage
the pozidrive.>>

AND flat out RUIN the Phillips driver !!

I've seen it happen<G>!!  Ask your friendly Snap-On Dealer when the handles
where RED<G>!!  Most likely he'll say they never were<G>!!  They were!!
Film at 11:00!!

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  2 15:10:25 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 15:10:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <800C1607-3986-4A18-9489-F693B4DF0566@sbcglobal.net>

There is an article that we did on this in our Tech Talk book also  
published in Austin Healey Magazine Feb 1996 of which the info came  
directly from the grandson of Mr Phillips, the American Screw Comapny  
and the Phillips Screw Company.

The phillips screw head was designed to slip at a specific torque.

The pozi screw head was designed not to slip.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 2, 2009, at 3:42 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:

> <<For Posidriv, look for extra little cross between the normal  
> Phillips
> looking "X".>>
>
> And if all else fails<G>, look in the fastener 'hole' and you WILL see
> 4 little teeth.
>
> For those of you not knowing, they were invented for production line
> use as they can be torqued down far better then Phillips.
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Thu Apr  2 15:14:28 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:14:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Pieter Scheen
Message-ID: <COL106-W50A9A3148363CA2D6D2E04C0880@phx.gbl>

Would Pieter Scheen please contact me off list regarding his post last year on
rear disc brakes. Thanks, Richard Mayor

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_042009

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr  2 15:46:04 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 18:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <19074E58EC944B429B4A99CDBE789B20@ophrdc.org>

The Concours Guide was misquoted. It states under the BN4 section (first of 
the 4 seaters that had this cardboard cover) that the screws were Phillips. 
Of course the BJ8 series had similar screws but they were Posidrives. Yes, 
the judges would know the difference.

Rich Chrysler


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Schneider" <mandmschneider at comcast.net>
To: <DENewman2 at aol.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, 
BJ8


> Sirs,
>
> Like Don Newman, I know the history of My car.  I bought it from the
> original owner forty years ago so I know the fasteners in the boot are
> the original hardware.  They are Pozidrive.  I guess that means the
> Concours Committee has relaxed the requirement and will accept a look-
> alike Phillips head???
>
> Marks3
>
>
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 11:33 AM, DENewman2 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> I also checked my car this morning. Pozidrive  1/2 ".
>> I am the original owner so I am sure that is how the car came from
>> the factory.
>>
>> Don
>>
>> In a message dated 4/2/2009 11:08:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
>> mandmschneider at comcast.net
>>  writes:
>> Sirs,
>>
>> I just went to the garage to check.  The fasteners in my boot are
>> Pozidrive button head screws.  The heads are approximately 5 mm in
>> diameter.  I didn't extract any to measure the length but I recall
>> they are not very long.  They are definitely not Philips head screws
>> and they are the original Pozidrive screws that were put in the car at
>> the time of manufacture.  Whenever possible I have reused the same
>> fasteners in the same application as original construction.  If you
>> need more detail, eg, size and thread type, please let me know.
>>
>> Marks3

From healeymnster at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 15:55:11 2009
From: healeymnster at gmail.com (Ed Townley)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:55:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
Message-ID: <164073bc0904021555k45285e72o2cbf664f7f558350@mail.gmail.com>

Hi, Dick:

Every since reading Michael Salter's blog re: cam damage and running an
engine with the sump dry in 2006, i have used nothing but Valvoline Racing
20/50  (it now has a sticker on bottles that reads "high Zinc"
check out the article here:

http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?s=valvoline

Cheers
Ed
BJ8 and sprites, and taxi, and---
Southern NM, USA

On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:45 AM, Dick Matson wrote:

> Time for an oil change.
>
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin Healeys - and
> why ?
>
> DM / Bj8

From robertlarson at att.net  Thu Apr  2 16:00:15 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 19:00:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <49D5437F.8050702@att.net>

You have to look really close to see what variation of "cross head"  
screws you have before grabbing a  screwdriver.

You may also need one that is JIS, the Japanese standard or the other 
American variation  of Reed & Prince.  There may be more.

Anybody have at least 4 different sets sets of cross screw drivers?

Bob

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Apr  2 16:04:02 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:04:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49D5437F.8050702@att.net>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<49D5437F.8050702@att.net>
Message-ID: <235A0427-28BA-4327-9910-FBF80074BAF9@cox.net>

I just have a bunch of phillips.

I've never had a problem with torque, slippage, or fastener/driver  
damage on the light-duty upholstery screws we're talking about.

On Apr 2, 2009, at 4:00 PM, Bob wrote:

> You have to look really close to see what variation of "cross  
> head"  screws you have before grabbing a  screwdriver.
>
> You may also need one that is JIS, the Japanese standard or the  
> other American variation  of Reed & Prince.  There may be more.
>
> Anybody have at least 4 different sets sets of cross screw drivers?

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Apr  2 17:12:15 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 20:12:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEDCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<800C1607-3986-4A18-9489-F693B4DF0566@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP86C5F4C4C755E041AB58ADC3890@phx.gbl>

David,

you wrote:  "The phillips screw head was designed to slip at a specific 
torque."
>
I always thought that the Phillips head was designed as an alternative to 
the much superior Robertson head (square drive), which was invented in 
Canada, just so Americans did not have to by all their screws from the GWN. 
(grin)

Mirek
60 BT7 

From dan at warner-associates.com  Thu Apr  2 17:56:22 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 19:56:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP86C5F4C4C755E041AB58ADC3890@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <908531745D234DFB8E9FA8230289FEC1@DANSTROM>

The story how of the Phillips head was finally accepted by American industry
is very interesting reading.  It was a huge improvement for the auto
industry from the slow and problematic slotted head.
Dan
64  BJ8 that looks like a trophy but runs like a tank
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 7:12 PM
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe,
BJ8

David,

you wrote:  "The phillips screw head was designed to slip at a specific 
torque."
>
I always thought that the Phillips head was designed as an alternative to 
the much superior Robertson head (square drive), which was invented in 
Canada, just so Americans did not have to by all their screws from the GWN. 
(grin)

Mirek
60 BT7 
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Thu Apr  2 18:09:30 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:09:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <908531745D234DFB8E9FA8230289FEC1@DANSTROM>
References: <908531745D234DFB8E9FA8230289FEC1@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <49D561C9.4050506@htcnet.org>

I second that!  After standing on my head to fasten several slotted 
(negative) screws under the dash.
(they were to old type toggle switches)

John
BJ8s

Dan Stromquist wrote:
> The story how of the Phillips head was finally accepted by American industry
> is very interesting reading.  It was a huge improvement for the auto
> industry from the _*slow and problematic slotted head.*_
> Dan
> 64  BJ8 that looks like a trophy but runs like a tank
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp
> Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 7:12 PM
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe,
> BJ8
>
> David,
>
> you wrote:  "The phillips screw head was designed to slip at a specific 
> torque."
>   
> I always thought that the Phillips head was designed as an alternative to 
> the much superior Robertson head (square drive), which was invented in 
> Canada, just so Americans did not have to by all their screws from the GWN. 
> (grin)
>
> Mirek

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Apr  2 18:34:26 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 01:34:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil?=
Message-ID: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>

i thought when we ran this thrread a few months ago it was agreed that Castrol 20/50 labeled SM did not have enough ZDDP in it, only SL or earlier would work.  did something come along that i missed?   also, who handles posidrive screwdrivers.  can't seem to find one anywhere.    hjim

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 18:43:51 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 18:43:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil - VR1-20/50
Message-ID: <777348.56014.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dick,

What:  Valvoline - VR1 Racing 20/50

Why: it is 20/50, it is formulated for high temp/prolonged stress, AND it has
higher levels of Zinc/ZDDP additives that were present in the period oils but
are absent/reduced in modern oils as they trash catalytic converters.  A
threshold level of ZDDP is needed in older design/metalurgy engines that have
flat cam followers et al - as Healey engines have.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 4/2/09, Dick Matson <medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:

> From: Dick Matson <medlabinc at msn.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
> To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 8:45 AM
> Time for an oil change.
>
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin
> Healeys - and why ?
>
> DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 18:45:52 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 18:45:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
Message-ID: <496297.30814.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob, Why just believe - what does the can label say?

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 4/2/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Oil
> To: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
> Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 9:55 AM
> I've always done well by Chevron
> Supreme 20W-50, 'cause I (used to) get it at Costco for
> $18/case. For a bit more jack Valvoline VR1 Racing is good
> stuff, too. Castrol 20W-50 GTX didn't seem to give as much
> pressure when hot.
>
> I've come to believe that most, if not all of the 20W-50s
> have enough ZDDP.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
> Time for an oil change.
>
> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin
> Healeys - and why ?
>
> DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 19:00:38 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 19:00:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
Message-ID: <426739.42868.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ed, I agree with Michael's article.

Some other oils have a decent level of zDDP, but VR1 states so on the can.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 4/2/09, Ed Townley <healeymnster at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Ed Townley <healeymnster at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Oil
> To: healeys at autox.team.net, "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
> Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 3:55 PM
> Hi, Dick:
>
> Every since reading Michael Salter's blog re: cam damage
> and running an
> engine with the sump dry in 2006, i have used nothing but
> Valvoline Racing
> 20/50  (it now has a sticker on bottles that reads
> "high Zinc"
> check out the article here:
>
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?s=valvoline
>
> Cheers
> Ed
> BJ8 and sprites, and taxi, and---
> Southern NM, USA
>
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:45 AM, Dick Matson wrote:
>
> > Time for an oil change.
> >
> > Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin
> Healeys - and
> > why ?
> >
> > DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 20:06:49 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:06:49 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] oil
In-Reply-To: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEFCCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<did something come along that i missed?>>

Nope<G>!

<<also, who handles posidrive screwdrivers.  can't seem to find one
anywhere.>>

Archives from yesterday and today ought to give enough reading, Jim.

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Apr  2 19:05:29 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 22:05:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] oil
In-Reply-To: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <00a001c9b400$a9f97f30$fdec7d90$@net>

Try:

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&
Category_Code=10000

Got mine from them. They and other dealers are listed on my site - Important
Links page under the subheading of tools.

Also try:
http://www.svst.com/svst1.aspx?Category=7ca74265-a12e-4654-a00a-6c432c7f7010

Or do a Yahoo (I do not use Google) search on pozi drive for many more
sources.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim at hansencc.net
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:34 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] oil

i thought when we ran this thrread a few months ago it was agreed that
Castrol 20/50 labeled SM did not have enough ZDDP in it, only SL or earlier
would work.  did something come along that i missed?   also, who handles
posidrive screwdrivers.  can't seem to find one anywhere.    hjim
_______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 20:07:53 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:07:53 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <908531745D234DFB8E9FA8230289FEC1@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEFCCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<It was a huge improvement for the auto
industry from the slow and problematic slotted head.>>

And PoziDriv made it even BETTER, Dan<G>!!

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 20:12:36 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:12:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <908531745D234DFB8E9FA8230289FEC1@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEFCCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

And NOW 'for the REST of the story'....<G>

http://www.phillips-screw.com/history_about_phillips.htm

and

http://www.phillips-screw.com/drive_systems.htm

Enjoy !!!

Ed

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Thu Apr  2 19:12:47 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:12:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E1A7141@SERVER.acrea.local>
Message-ID: <20090403031146.4FCC9187678@autox.team.net>

Price,

I bought mine at Sears several years ago.  I got one with an inductive
pickup and an offset adjustment so that I could use the TDC mark on the
crankshaft pulley to set timing at 15 BTDC.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay
> Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 12:34 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
> 
> Listers -
> 
> 
> 
> I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
> suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
> lights that can do what I need to do?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 
> 67 BJ 8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From DENewman2 at aol.com  Thu Apr  2 19:21:59 2009
From: DENewman2 at aol.com (DENewman2 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:21:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] oil
Message-ID: <c9d.43251a12.3706ccc7@aol.com>

Sears
 
Don
 
 
In a message dated 4/2/2009 6:34:44 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
healeymanjim at hansencc.net writes:

i  thought when we ran this thrread a few months ago it was agreed that 
Castrol  20/50 labeled SM did not have enough ZDDP in it, only SL or earlier would  
work.  did something come along that i missed?   also, who  handles posidrive 
screwdrivers.  can't seem to find one anywhere.   hjim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  denewman2 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 or 
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  2 19:27:14 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:27:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
References: <496297.30814.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000701c9b403$b42cb460$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

If you need a good "bottle read" then pick up a blue bottle of STP.  (Zddp 
added)   It says it right on the front (magnifying glass needed).     Now 
you can use one bottle for your engine and one for your steering gearbox.

Quick ,  simple ,  easy,

Its your call,    Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Oil


> Bob, Why just believe - what does the can label say?
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Thu, 4/2/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Oil
>> To: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
>> Cc: "AustinHealey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 9:55 AM
>> I've always done well by Chevron
>> Supreme 20W-50, 'cause I (used to) get it at Costco for
>> $18/case. For a bit more jack Valvoline VR1 Racing is good
>> stuff, too. Castrol 20W-50 GTX didn't seem to give as much
>> pressure when hot.
>>
>> I've come to believe that most, if not all of the 20W-50s
>> have enough ZDDP.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Time for an oil change.
>>
>> Who likes what engine oil in their 6-cylinder Austin
>> Healeys - and why ?
>>
>> DM / Bj8
>> _______________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  2 21:06:50 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:06:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <000701c9b403$b42cb460$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJAEFHCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Now 
you can use one bottle for your engine and one for your steering gearbox.

Quick ,  simple ,  easy,>>

NOT 'easy' Mark, if yer having to re-fill steering gearbox with EACH
oil change !!!  YIKES !!!

And until I use up the Castrol GTX (dino) 20W50 that I have IN stock
(by cases) I will just continue to add pint of the Lucas Oil additive or
1/2 bottle of GM's E.O.S., both of which are full of ZDDP.

One very long "season" I did 5 oil changes on Hortense and 3 of wife's
MGB.

I would NOT have liked to do Steering 5 times !!!<G>

Ed
The K.I.S.S. Rules RULES<VBG>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 21:41:45 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:41:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <496297.30814.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <496297.30814.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49D59389.7040205@comcast.net>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 21:45:52 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:45:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <20090403031146.4FCC9187678@autox.team.net>
References: <20090403031146.4FCC9187678@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <49D59480.4090308@comcast.net>

I've had two (one got stolen).  Decent equipment for the money, but if 
it has a metal case and you have a positive ground car the case will be 
hot when hooked up. 

Ask me how I know ;)


Bob


Peter Schauss wrote:
> Price,
>
> I bought mine at Sears several years ago.  I got one with an inductive
> pickup and an offset adjustment so that I could use the TDC mark on the
> crankshaft pulley to set timing at 15 BTDC.
>
> HTH,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 21:49:55 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:49:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil
In-Reply-To: <49D59389.7040205@comcast.net>
References: <496297.30814.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<49D59389.7040205@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49D59573.8030809@comcast.net>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 21:53:15 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:53:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Oil (cont.) - Having list trouble (again)
Message-ID: <49D5963B.7010405@comcast.net>

Mainly because it appears the requirement to reduce zinc and (mainly) 
phosphorous doesn't apply to 20W-50 (arguably the best oil for a Big 
Healey).  Inertia being what it is, I doubt too many companies would 
bother to reformulate any oil they don't have to (unless it's to meet 
new SAE requirements; SL, SM, etc.). 

AFAIK, no one was required to add ZDDP in the first place.  At first it 
was a competitive advantage, but was added by most brands eventually.   
Zinc and phosphorous were never reported on the bottle before (though it 
might have said something like "improved wear resistance").  That's 
changed, at least with VR1.

Note I don't profess to be an expert, but I have done a bit of research 
trying to understand the problem.  I recall reading that all ZDDP is 
made by just one company--at some point that business model may not be 
viable.


Bob


Robert Blair wrote:

Bob, Why just believe - what does the can label say?

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
     


  

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr  2 23:18:14 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 08:18:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Securing Cardboard Around Fuel Filler Pipe, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
	<49D50D88.8@chello.nl> <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49D5AA26.90900@chello.nl>

You would not only damage the screw but also the screwdriver or bit.
It is amazing that even quite a few experienced mechanics and other 
people who should know (including concours judges) do not know there is 
a difference in "cross headed" screws.
You only have to look in their toolbox: phillips but no pozidrive.
There is a third type, but I forgot the name. It is hardly ever used.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


MGTD51 schreef:
> Maybe not, but using a phillips in a pozidrive is a great way to 
> damage the pozidrive.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr  2 23:26:11 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 08:26:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] oil
In-Reply-To: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <49D5AC03.5050106@chello.nl>

All Major tool manufacturers like Snap On, Belzer etc. will have 
pozidrive screw driver and bits in their program.
Kees Oudesluijs

healeymanjim at hansencc.net schreef:
> i thought when we ran this thrread a few months ago it was agreed that Castrol 20/50 labeled SM did not have enough ZDDP in it, only SL or earlier would work.  did something come along that i missed?   also, who handles posidrive screwdrivers.  can't seem to find one anywhere.    hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 06:35:54 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 09:35:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] oil
In-Reply-To: <49D5AC03.5050106@chello.nl>
References: <20090403013426.32035.qmail@server278.com>
	<49D5AC03.5050106@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ce473f960904030635x5ac4e13cn3ef69bbc19458812@mail.gmail.com>

go to harborfreight.com and search for pozi. cheap, too!

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Fri Apr  3 08:18:55 2009
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 11:18:55 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] starting a sleeping Healey
Message-ID: <c17.599d999c.370782df@aol.com>

I have a 64 BJ8 that hasn't been started for 6-7 years since the engine  
rebuild and I seek your collective wisdom.  My favorite auto  parts store manager 
suggests spraying penetrating oil into the cylinders, let it  work for 48 
hours, drain the oil, pull the plug wires, etc. and try to  turn the engine by 
hand first.
 
Any further advice?
 
Bill
**************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a 
recession. 
(http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Apr  3 08:29:34 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 15:29:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] starting a sleeping Healey
In-Reply-To: <c17.599d999c.370782df@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1957427999.3406031238772574488.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yeah. Refill the oil before you start the engine ;) 


bs 




I have a 64 BJ8 that hasn't been started for 6-7 years since the engine 
rebuild and I seek your collective wisdom. My favorite auto parts store manager 
suggests spraying penetrating oil into the cylinders, let it work for 48 
hours, drain the oil, pull the plug wires, etc. and try to turn the engine by 
hand first. 

Any further advice? 

Bill 

From quenty at ntelos.net  Fri Apr  3 08:36:47 2009
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 11:36:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E1A7141@SERVER.acrea.local>
References: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E1A7141@SERVER.acrea.local>
Message-ID: <A5039BB5-29B5-43FC-B16A-6204CD155FE2@ntelos.net>

Hello Price,
I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set  
adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on  
the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.  
love it!
Dave


On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:

Listers -



I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
lights that can do what I need to do?



Thank you.



Price Lindsay

67 BJ 8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri Apr  3 08:52:54 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 10:52:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <A5039BB5-29B5-43FC-B16A-6204CD155FE2@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>

Dave:
Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon core plug
wires getting an inaccurate reading?
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Schweninger
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
To: R. Price Lindsay
Cc: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light

Hello Price,
I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set  
adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on  
the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.  
love it!
Dave


On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:

Listers -



I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
lights that can do what I need to do?



Thank you.



Price Lindsay

67 BJ 8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From quenty at ntelos.net  Fri Apr  3 09:23:18 2009
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 12:23:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
References: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <84DE1FBB-9E8A-4AA4-910C-C43CB09B7949@ntelos.net>

Dan:
The manual states "some after market ignition systems and/or specialty  
spark plug wires (solid core wires, racing wires, off road wires)  
radiate above normal levels of EMI and RFI (can cause problems)". I  
have a stock ignition and coil with carbon core wires in my BN7. I had  
no problem. Same with my XKE with solid core wires.
The manual also states that " it may be necessary to replace the #1  
plug wire with O.E. style wire during testing"

I'll be interested to see what Jeff Schlemmer has to say.

Dave


On Apr 3, 2009, at 11:52 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:

Dave:
Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon  
core plug
wires getting an inaccurate reading?
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
]
On Behalf Of David Schweninger
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
To: R. Price Lindsay
Cc: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light

Hello Price,
I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set
adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on
the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.
love it!
Dave


On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:

Listers -



I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
lights that can do what I need to do?



Thank you.



Price Lindsay

67 BJ 8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr  3 09:44:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 18:44:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
References: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <49D63D07.3050500@chello.nl>

The very old neon timing lights were rather inaccurate as they showed a 
considerable delay. These were also rather impractical as they gave of 
very little light. The modern (OK, all is relative) Xenon lights are 
quite accurate. They are all triggered by induction of no. 1 plug wire.
Some pick ups work better than others. You can get the very basic one, 
or one with timing delay so that you can set the advance on the timing 
light and adjust on TDC. Some even have a dwell angle meter and RPM 
gauge included.
In the past I had good results with Optimax from Hella (simple 
stroboscope light and still available I believe) and 80-Line (cheap, 
with advance setting) both are still working after 28 years.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Dan Stromquist schreef:
> Dave:
> Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon core plug
> wires getting an inaccurate reading?
> Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of David Schweninger
> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
> To: R. Price Lindsay
> Cc: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light
>
> Hello Price,
> I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set  
> adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on  
> the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.  
> love it!
> Dave
>
>
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
>
> Listers -
>
>
>
> I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
> suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
> lights that can do what I need to do?
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> 67 BJ 8
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.39/2038 - Release Date: 04/02/09 19:07:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr  3 09:11:22 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 18:11:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] starting a sleeping Healey
In-Reply-To: <c17.599d999c.370782df@aol.com>
References: <c17.599d999c.370782df@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49D6352A.1090302@chello.nl>

Block or disconnect the fuel line, clean the area around the spark plugs 
very carefully, preferably using air pressure, remove the plugs, inject 
a few squirts of first penetrating oil and after 24 hrs engine oil in 
each cylinder, change engine oil and filter.
If present, undo a plug of the the oil galery or oil pressure line and 
if you have the gear, fit a pump (a modified handpump for grease nipples 
filled with engine oil will do) and pump oil under pressure through the 
system. Pump several times more oil than the capacity of the oil filter. 
Turn the engine by hand a few times to feel if it has some tight spots, 
If all is OK, refit the plug in the oil galery and spin the engine on 
the starter untill you have oil pressure.
Then refit the sparkplugs and leads, connect the fuel line, check the 
ignition points, timing and firing order.

Time for starting up. Don't forget your gas mask.

Kees Oudesluijs


INSIDEDIM at aol.com schreef:
> I have a 64 BJ8 that hasn't been started for 6-7 years since the engine  
> rebuild and I seek your collective wisdom.  My favorite auto  parts store manager 
> suggests spraying penetrating oil into the cylinders, let it  work for 48 
> hours, drain the oil, pull the plug wires, etc. and try to  turn the engine by 
> hand first.
>  
> Any further advice?
>  
> Bill
> **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a 
> recession. 
> (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.39/2038 - Release Date: 04/02/09 19:07:00

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Apr  3 13:31:46 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 13:31:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Racing Sat - Sun at Sear's Point
Message-ID: <20090403163146.2R7DK.265353.root@mp06>

CSRG kicks off the season this weekend at Infineon (Sears Point) Raceway.  I'll be up there as usual with DIBs Racing and gary Anderson at the wheel of the #5 red MGA "Maggie".

http://www.csrgracing.org/schedulecsrg.html#eventinfo

Cheers!   Safty Fast !!!!

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Apr  3 17:16:39 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 20:16:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <84DE1FBB-9E8A-4AA4-910C-C43CB09B7949@ntelos.net>
References: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
	<84DE1FBB-9E8A-4AA4-910C-C43CB09B7949@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <00e201c9b4ba$a066d3e0$e1347ba0$@net>

I have a Craftsman Professional (Sear) Advance Inductive Timing Light --
Metal case which I use on my positive ground BN6 and I love it.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Schweninger
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 12:23 PM
To: Dan Stromquist
Cc: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light

Dan:
The manual states "some after market ignition systems and/or specialty  
spark plug wires (solid core wires, racing wires, off road wires)  
radiate above normal levels of EMI and RFI (can cause problems)". I  
have a stock ignition and coil with carbon core wires in my BN7. I had  
no problem. Same with my XKE with solid core wires.
The manual also states that " it may be necessary to replace the #1  
plug wire with O.E. style wire during testing"

I'll be interested to see what Jeff Schlemmer has to say.

Dave


On Apr 3, 2009, at 11:52 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:

Dave:
Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon  
core plug
wires getting an inaccurate reading?
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
]
On Behalf Of David Schweninger
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
To: R. Price Lindsay
Cc: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light

Hello Price,
I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set
adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on
the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.
love it!
Dave


On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:

Listers -



I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
lights that can do what I need to do?



Thank you.



Price Lindsay

67 BJ 8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

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From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  3 16:58:07 2009
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 16:58:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
Message-ID: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Well I have done most if not all the things you guys have suggested and I still can't get the BJ8 to start.
I checked the manifold for a missing plug and there were none.
I emptied the fuel bowls found a small amount of sediment so I cleaned the bowls. I sprayed carbretor cleaner into the jets and put some paper towel in the bowls to see what if any thing came out. The jets are not clogged now but I did get some dirt and metalic particles on the paper towel. I kep sparaying carb cleaner until there was no dirt on the paper towel.
I cleaned the pistons throroughly and reassembled the carbs.
I also installed an inline fuel filter just before the carbs to remove any debris from the tank. 
On my first try it ran briefly but very rough and it also sounded like there was some interference with the flywheel and the starter - I just installed a new gear reduction starter. I kept trying to get the car to start but no luck. I did have the carbs choked and it was a beautiful 75F with low humidity.
OK guys what am I missing here I am ready to do bodily harm if this thing doesn't start someday soon.
Thanks
Jorge

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 16:32:47 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 16:32:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
References: <D89930577CD84A75B61370D23B646CB5@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <20B71758-D725-4086-BD65-B7EC8934061F@gmail.com>

Inductive pickups work fine with carbon (supressed)wires unless the  
wire is bad. Then in some cases you might have issues.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:52 AM, "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner- 
associates.com> wrote:

> Dave:
> Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon  
> core plug
> wires getting an inaccurate reading?
> Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> ]
> On Behalf Of David Schweninger
> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
> To: R. Price Lindsay
> Cc: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light
>
> Hello Price,
> I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set
> adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on
> the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.
> love it!
> Dave
>
>
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
>
> Listers -
>
>
>
> I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
> suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
> lights that can do what I need to do?
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> 67 BJ 8
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr  3 12:25:10 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 12:25:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pozi/Phillips Drive Screw History
In-Reply-To: <49D5AA26.90900@chello.nl>
References: <d19.3be9fd80.37065f0b@aol.com>
	<37A88B80-FD9E-46F3-B47B-E182F62B52DF@comcast.net>
	<49D50D88.8@chello.nl> <49D53B81.3000102@comcast.net>
	<49D5AA26.90900@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <4B0DC545-39C4-4450-872B-D5ED6E6829B4@sbcglobal.net>

This is a copy of the article on Pozi Driv that we did





o?<






David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Apr  3 18:56:20 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 19:56:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <00e201c9b4ba$a066d3e0$e1347ba0$@net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEGKCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<I have a Craftsman Professional (Sear) Advance Inductive Timing Light --
Metal case which I use on my positive ground>>

Ditto, John.  Maybe 30 years old?!?

<<BN6>>

NOPE, BUT on of MGTDs(couple dozen), TFs(3), Spridgets(LOTS), 
MGAs(couple dozen), MGBs(LOTS), Big Healeys(LOTS), Mini(several
dozen, Moke(2), Morris(6 or 7), and 4 El Caminos<G> !!
That qualify???  LOL

<<and I love it.>>

Ditto.

Me

PS:  And I will NOT admit to actually droppong it<VBG>

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  3 17:54:37 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 17:54:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
Message-ID: <381855.53993.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jorge,

I have not followed all the prior thread here, so my suggestion may have been
done already - but this was my problem a few months ago.

BAD rotor in the distributor.  They look fine to the eye, but there has been a
string of bad quaility out of China.  Buy a new one that looks different/is
from a different manufacturer.  I had two bad ones in a row.


Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 4/3/09, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, April 3, 2009, 4:58 PM
> Well I have done most if not all the
> things you guys have suggested and I still can't get the BJ8
> to start.
> I checked the manifold for a missing plug and there were
> none.
> I emptied the fuel bowls found a small amount of sediment
> so I cleaned the bowls. I sprayed carbretor cleaner into the
> jets and put some paper towel in the bowls to see what if
> any thing came out. The jets are not clogged now but I did
> get some dirt and metalic particles on the paper towel. I
> kep sparaying carb cleaner until there was no dirt on the
> paper towel.
> I cleaned the pistons throroughly and reassembled the
> carbs.
> I also installed an inline fuel filter just before the
> carbs to remove any debris from the tank.
> On my first try it ran briefly but very rough and it also
> sounded like there was some interference with the flywheel
> and the starter - I just installed a new gear reduction
> starter. I kept trying to get the car to start but no luck.
> I did have the carbs choked and it was a beautiful 75F with
> low humidity.
> OK guys what am I missing here I am ready to do bodily harm
> if this thing doesn't start someday soon.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Apr  3 18:07:39 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 21:07:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
Message-ID: <d58.3b76f828.37080cdb@aol.com>

Jorge--
 
Have you checked the distributor advance?  If the timing is way  off the 
starter will have a hard time rolling the engine over against the  combustion and 
if it does start it will not run well.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
------------------------------------------  
In a message dated 4/3/2009 8:25:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fortee9er at yahoo.com writes:

On my  first try it ran briefly but very rough and it also sounded like there 
was  some interference with the flywheel and the starter - I just installed a 
new  gear reduction starter. 


 
**************Hurry! April 15th is almost here. File your Federal taxes FREE 
with TaxACT. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220714320x1201367638/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.taxact.com%2F08tax.asp%3Fsc%3D084102950001%26p%3D82)

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 19:16:59 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 10:16:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
In-Reply-To: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904031916u4b903159v2208c877e0ff4e65@mail.gmail.com>

Jorge -

A few easy things to try.

1) sometimes the core plug on the back of the manifold only pops partially
out.  Feel around the edges and make sure it is properly seated on the
manifold.  I suspect it is fine, but it's an easy check anyway.
2) I would try replacing both the rotor and dizzy cap with new ones.  With a
cracked cap you can still get spark on some cylinders and not on others, or
you might get a severely weakened spark.  A cracked cap can be very hard to
see with your eye.
3) Replace the coil with a spare if you have one.  Sometimes they can spark
when turning over (very slow RPMs) but as soon as the motor catches it's too
much and they crap out.
4) Replace contacts and condensor.
5) Did you check if one of the carb needles has dropped?
6) make sure the manifold nuts and the carbs to manifold nuts are not
loose... you don't need to tighten them all that much (about 25 ft lbs,
about half turn after finger tight).


Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 7:58 AM, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Well I have done most if not all the things you guys have suggested and I
> still can't get the BJ8 to start.
> I checked the manifold for a missing plug and there were none.
> I emptied the fuel bowls found a small amount of sediment so I cleaned the
> bowls. I sprayed carbretor cleaner into the jets and put some paper towel in
> the bowls to see what if any thing came out. The jets are not clogged now
> but I did get some dirt and metalic particles on the paper towel. I kep
> sparaying carb cleaner until there was no dirt on the paper towel.
> I cleaned the pistons throroughly and reassembled the carbs.
> I also installed an inline fuel filter just before the carbs to remove any
> debris from the tank.
> On my first try it ran briefly but very rough and it also sounded like
> there was some interference with the flywheel and the starter - I just
> installed a new gear reduction starter. I kept trying to get the car to
> start but no luck. I did have the carbs choked and it was a beautiful 75F
> with low humidity.
> OK guys what am I missing here I am ready to do bodily harm if this thing
> doesn't start someday soon.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Apr  3 19:26:39 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 02:26:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?timing_lights?=
Message-ID: <20090404022639.14796.qmail@server278.com>

we have a couple of people in our club who purchased timing lights that have the adjustable setting where you set the advance and then line up the marks.  they were purchased from a well know dept store that handles tools, tires, etc.  they work well but seem to give out after a few times of use.  do not know why, but i decided not to invest about 70 bucks in one and will continue to struggle along with my 40 year old one until i can find a good one for a good price.    hjim

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 12:51:40 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 15:51:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smiles
Message-ID: <ce473f960904031251h4c325d4cn7f6af51ebf1e5f97@mail.gmail.com>

'Little Johnny's' at it again..... A new teacher was trying to make
use of her psychology courses. She started her class by saying,
'Everyone who thinks they're stupid, stand up!' After a few seconds,
'Little Johnny' stood up. The teacher said, 'Do you think you're
stupid, 'Little Johnny'?' 'No, ma'am, but I hate to see you standing
there all by yourself!'


      *     *      *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *


'Little Johnny' watched, fascinated, as his mother smoothed cold cream
on her face. 'Why do you do that, mommy?' he asked. 'To make myself
beautiful,' said his mother, who then began removing the cream with a
tissue. 'What's the matter?' asked 'Little Johnny.' 'Giving up?'


       *     *     *     *     *      *    *     *     *     *     *


The math teacher saw that 'Little Johnny' wasn't paying attention in
class. She called on him and said,
'Johnny! What are 2 and 4 and 28 and 44?' 'Little Johnny' quickly
replied, 'NBC, FOX, ESPN and the Cartoon Network!'


          *           *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *


'Little Johnny's' kindergarten class was on a field trip to their
local police station where they saw pictures tacked to a bulletin
board of the 10 most wanted criminals. One of the youngsters pointed
to a picture and asked if it really was the photo of a wanted person.
'Yes,' said the policeman. 'The detectives want very badly to capture
him .'Little Johnny' asked, 'Why didn't you keep him when you took his
picture ?'


        *     *     *     *     *     *      *     *     *     *       *


'Little Johnny' attended a horse auction with his father. He watched
as his father moved from horse to horse, running his hands up and down
the horse's legs and rump, and chest. After a few minutes, Johnny
asked, 'Dad, why are you doing that?' His father replied, 'Because
when I'm buying horses,I have to make sure that they are healthy and
in good shape before I buy.' Johnny, looking worried, said, 'Dad, I
think the UPS guy wants to buy Mom.'

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 19:40:53 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 10:40:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] timing lights
In-Reply-To: <20090404022639.14796.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090404022639.14796.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904031940x5c532b3w1585221a3294ad51@mail.gmail.com>

The trick with these is to get the one with the hand dial rather than
the LCD, the LCD ones are more finicky.

On 4/4/09, healeymanjim at hansencc.net <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> we have a couple of people in our club who purchased timing lights that have
> the adjustable setting where you set the advance and then line up the marks.
>  they were purchased from a well know dept store that handles tools, tires,
> etc.  they work well but seem to give out after a few times of use.  do not
> know why, but i decided not to invest about 70 bucks in one and will
> continue to struggle along with my 40 year old one until i can find a good
> one for a good price.    hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Apr  3 21:32:02 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 22:32:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] timing lights
In-Reply-To: <20090404022639.14796.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEHACPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<they were purchased from a well know dept store 
that handles tools, tires, etc.>>

Come on Jim, do you mean Sears or Home Defect
(didn't know they sold tyres tho)???

If you mean Sears, John's is only 2 years old as
you should have read by new and mine is decades<G>!!

Ed

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr  3 20:37:14 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 22:37:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904031916u4b903159v2208c877e0ff4e65@mail.gmail.com>
References: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0904031916u4b903159v2208c877e0ff4e65@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C94A205BE4D346CABAC0332D22F4507A@GregPC>

Gorge, don't know how it would but you mention that is sounds like it is 
binding on the flywheel or starter motor, that is the last thing you worked 
on prior to the car working, does the old starter work? swap them out and 
see what happens, I am not picturing how that would be the problem, but it 
is an easy enough test if you left the original solenoid in place.

Greg Lemon

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Fri Apr  3 20:41:29 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 21:41:29 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Soaked Brake Shoes
Message-ID: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995@jackniolfz37if>

I recently discovered a leaky brake wheel cylinder that contaminated my fairly
new brake shoes.   Anyone out there have good results cleaning these to a
usable condition with the spray cans of brake cleaner or is it best to trash
the linings and start from new?

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr  3 20:53:25 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 22:53:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
In-Reply-To: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B405857024FA4667B16E8209B7685ABC@GregPC>

Jorge, sorry Jorge not Gorge--Greg

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Apr  3 21:31:22 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 21:31:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Soaked Brake Shoes
In-Reply-To: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995@jackniolfz37if>
References: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995@jackniolfz37if>
Message-ID: <49D6E29A.3020303@comcast.net>

I would say it depends how badly they were soaked.  Superficially, and 
if you got it off quick you should be able to get most of it off.  If it 
was soaked for awhile--likely, in your case--it might not be worth the 
nagging feeling you get if you don't trust your brakes ;)

I got some diff oil on some shoes and even though I cleaned (and sanded) 
them best I could they glazed.  Brake cleaner might be more effective on 
brake fluid (duh).

Bob


Jack Newton wrote:
> I recently discovered a leaky brake wheel cylinder that contaminated my fairly
> new brake shoes.   Anyone out there have good results cleaning these to a
> usable condition with the spray cans of brake cleaner or is it best to trash
> the linings and start from new?
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Apr  4 00:05:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 09:05:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Soaked Brake Shoes
In-Reply-To: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995@jackniolfz37if>
References: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995@jackniolfz37if>
Message-ID: <49D706D3.6030601@chello.nl>

Trow them away and fit new ones. Some will try to burn the oil using a 
torch after soaking the in brake fluid cleaner. Do not bother. The brake 
fluid has soaked deep into the linings and after a while it will come to 
the surface again. Anyway, the linings are cheap to replace.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jack Newton schreef:
> I recently discovered a leaky brake wheel cylinder that contaminated my fairly
> new brake shoes.   Anyone out there have good results cleaning these to a
> usable condition with the spray cans of brake cleaner or is it best to trash
> the linings and start from new?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2040 - Release Date: 04/03/09 17:54:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Apr  4 00:32:51 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 09:32:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Doesn't want to start Part III
In-Reply-To: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <624322.41438.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49D70D23.2080207@chello.nl>

Sounds like possible fuel starvation because of a blocked line or 
filter. Check if the plugs get wet with fuel after starting. Spray some 
propane/butane propelled medium (penitrating oil, WD40 etc.) in the 
carbs throat or better some aether when turning the engine on the 
starter. If it picks up and dies it is fuel starvation.
Renew points, condensor, distr. cap, check or replace coil and plug 
wires, check if carb pistons move freely and drop with a clear clonk 
when fully adjusted back. Fill the dampers with ATF or sewing machine oil.
Are the plug leads fitted in the right firing order?
Kees Oudesluijs


Jorge Garcia schreef:
> Well I have done most if not all the things you guys have suggested and I still can't get the BJ8 to start.
> I checked the manifold for a missing plug and there were none.
> I emptied the fuel bowls found a small amount of sediment so I cleaned the bowls. I sprayed carbretor cleaner into the jets and put some paper towel in the bowls to see what if any thing came out. The jets are not clogged now but I did get some dirt and metalic particles on the paper towel. I kep sparaying carb cleaner until there was no dirt on the paper towel.
> I cleaned the pistons throroughly and reassembled the carbs.
> I also installed an inline fuel filter just before the carbs to remove any debris from the tank. 
> On my first try it ran briefly but very rough and it also sounded like there was some interference with the flywheel and the starter - I just installed a new gear reduction starter. I kept trying to get the car to start but no luck. I did have the carbs choked and it was a beautiful 75F with low humidity.
> OK guys what am I missing here I am ready to do bodily harm if this thing doesn't start someday soon.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2040 - Release Date: 04/03/09 17:54:00

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Apr  4 02:32:35 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 09:32:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] thanks for the help, and feeling like a big kid
Message-ID: <SNT103-W1014F6DAF1F8053E01FCBDD5860@phx.gbl>

Guys



Hooked up a battery to the bj8 yesterday to try out all the electrical bits,
and hurray success they nearly all worked, just had one headlight and the
wiper motor not working. Thought it was better to try the hydraulics and
electrics before the engine was in.



How good was it hear the horns again, see the flashers work and even see the
hydraulic brake light. I went into the house to get my wife and son, to show
them 'rusty' was nearly living again. My 3 year old son was just as impressed
as me, and we both sat there playing with the switches - simple things! My
wife just smiled and went back in the house, they dont understand!



The headlight was just a loose connection, unfortunately had to pull the
glovebox to get the wiper motor out, only to find the commutator was binding
on the case, so success. All working, another bonding session with son playing
with switches again.



Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice over the last few years.



Next week is the big engine lift, all in one thru the shroud, with buttocks
clenched!



Thanks again Andy

_________________________________________________________________
View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more!
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Apr  4 02:37:25 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 09:37:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 number plate light cable
Message-ID: <SNT103-W75DEFD1C48156F718309C6D5860@phx.gbl>

Guys



Could anyone describe or have a picture of the short lead / cable for the
number plate light, that goes thru the rear shroud. Mine had an after market
light botched straight into the loom. How long is the cable, what does the
inline fuse look like, is it sheathed? I did not get one with the new loom, so
would like to chase, it looks like Autosparks dont supply it.



thanks in advance



Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Sat Apr  4 04:01:48 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 11:01:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] thanks for the help, and feeling like a big kid
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W1014F6DAF1F8053E01FCBDD5860@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT103-W1014F6DAF1F8053E01FCBDD5860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W137BA2A3D4D4781DF8D286B5860@phx.gbl>

Congrats - by the way the fact that she smiled before going back into the
house suggests she does understand.
Rick Swain'59 BN4

 My wife just smiled and went back in the house, they dont understand!


_________________________________________________________________
Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Apr  4 04:03:37 2009
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 07:03:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thanks for the help, and feeling like a big kid
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W1014F6DAF1F8053E01FCBDD5860@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT103-W1014F6DAF1F8053E01FCBDD5860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1E4D6864-AB79-46A1-BB9D-AF95D6E7DC92@mac.com>

Congratulations, Andy!!

You have come a long way and from your written and photo accounts you  
have done a great job with your restoration.
It is a wonderful feeling when things work as they were intended!

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

On Apr 4, 2009, at 5:32 AM, andy pole wrote:

> Guys
>
>
>
> Hooked up a battery to the bj8 yesterday to try out all the  
> electrical bits,
> and hurray success they nearly all worked, just had one headlight  
> and the
> wiper motor not working. Thought it was better to try the hydraulics  
> and
> electrics before the engine was in.
>
>
>
> How good was it hear the horns again, see the flashers work and even  
> see the
> hydraulic brake light. I went into the house to get my wife and son,  
> to show
> them 'rusty' was nearly living again. My 3 year old son was just as  
> impressed
> as me, and we both sat there playing with the switches - simple  
> things! My
> wife just smiled and went back in the house, they dont understand!
>
>
>
> The headlight was just a loose connection, unfortunately had to pull  
> the
> glovebox to get the wiper motor out, only to find the commutator was  
> binding
> on the case, so success. All working, another bonding session with  
> son playing
> with switches again.
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice over the last few  
> years.
>
>
>
> Next week is the big engine lift, all in one thru the shroud, with  
> buttocks
> clenched!
>
>
>
> Thanks again Andy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as linwoodrose at mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr  4 04:45:09 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 06:45:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] yest
Message-ID: <211703293.419371.1238845509479.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net>

/TwU2Y5: Permission denied

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sat Apr  4 12:17:28 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 15:17:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Light
In-Reply-To: <84DE1FBB-9E8A-4AA4-910C-C43CB09B7949@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <20090404201624.C4C7D18786F@autox.team.net>

The inductive pickup on my timing light works fine with solid core wires.

-Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Schweninger
> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 12:23 PM
> To: Dan Stromquist
> Cc: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light
> 
> Dan:
> The manual states "some after market ignition systems and/or specialty
> spark plug wires (solid core wires, racing wires, off road wires)
> radiate above normal levels of EMI and RFI (can cause problems)". I
> have a stock ignition and coil with carbon core wires in my BN7. I had
> no problem. Same with my XKE with solid core wires.
> The manual also states that " it may be necessary to replace the #1
> plug wire with O.E. style wire during testing"
> 
> I'll be interested to see what Jeff Schlemmer has to say.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> On Apr 3, 2009, at 11:52 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:
> 
> Dave:
> Is there not a problem with the inductive timing lights and carbon
> core plug
> wires getting an inaccurate reading?
> Dan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net
> ]
> On Behalf Of David Schweninger
> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:37 AM
> To: R. Price Lindsay
> Cc: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Light
> 
> Hello Price,
> I bought a "Innova Pro". Not cheap. Inductive input, off set
> adjustment, dwell angle,and RPM . No more scratching little marks on
> the damper and trying to rig up a mirror so I can see the cars Tach.
> love it!
> Dave
> 
> 
> On Apr 2, 2009, at 12:34 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> 
> Listers -
> 
> 
> 
> I have an old timing light that has finally given up on me.  Are there
> suggestions on reasonably priced/inexpensive but good quality timing
> lights that can do what I need to do?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 
> 67 BJ 8
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Apr  4 13:38:48 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 14:38:48 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: [9issa] Largest Model Railway in the World
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEHLCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

This is from my "Joke" List and I felt that since we
all
drive & love our 'toy' cars and Spridgeteer Bob
Gardener
'offered it up', I thought all of your would enjoy this
UN-REAL 'set of toys' !!

All I could think was Holy CR*P  !!    Enjoy.!!!!!

Ed
*********************************************
  Largest Model Railway in the World
 FANTASTIC (Bob's comment.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN_oDdGmKyA&feature

From rcobb at earthlink.net  Sat Apr  4 17:12:17 2009
From: rcobb at earthlink.net (R. Cobb)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 19:12:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fluid soaked brake shoes
Message-ID: <49D7F761.6040807@earthlink.net>

Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 21:41:29 -0600
From: "Jack Newton" <jmnewt at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fluid Soaked Brake Shoes
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <58CC3560D33041C7AA9D74FC02FB7995 at jackniolfz37if>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I recently discovered a leaky brake wheel cylinder that contaminated my fairly
new brake shoes.   Anyone out there have good results cleaning these to a
usable condition with the spray cans of brake cleaner or is it best to trash
the linings and start from new?
---------------

John,
I have had success using an old mechanic's trick: warming the shoes in an oven at perhaps 
225 degrees F.  The heat brings the fluid to the surface where it can be wiped off.  Do this process 
several times until no more fluid is apparent, then clean the shoes with brake cleaner.

Make sure you ventilate the kitchen and clear the project with whomever is responsible for the oven.

Good luck.

Bob

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr  4 18:01:49 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 21:01:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  FW: [9issa] Largest Model Railway in the World
Message-ID: <016901c9b58a$19b311d0$4d193570$@net>

WOW! However when I first played it all I could think of was "You vill vatch
this wideo!" with an implied OR ELSE! I once built a model  scene for my
grandsons trains on a 4x8 sheet of plywood with tunnels, etc but this is
something else.

Thanks, my grandson loves it.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.haley6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed's Shop
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:39 PM
To: 00 - MGs; 00 - MG Ts; 00 - Midgetsprite at Yahoo; 00 - SPM at autoX; 00 -
Healeys at Autox
Subject: [Healeys] FW: [9issa] Largest Model Railway in the World

This is from my "Joke" List and I felt that since we
all
drive & love our 'toy' cars and Spridgeteer Bob
Gardener
'offered it up', I thought all of your would enjoy this
UN-REAL 'set of toys' !!

All I could think was Holy CR*P  !!    Enjoy.!!!!!

Ed
*********************************************
  Largest Model Railway in the World
 FANTASTIC (Bob's comment.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN_oDdGmKyA&feature

_______________________________________________

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sun Apr  5 03:30:48 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 19:30:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Bathurst
Message-ID: <49D87A48.2020709@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

For those interested in a bit of Easter Action check out the promo for 
the coming production sports and sedan car racing. Healeys,Sprites,MG's 
and Triumphs will be competing.                                 

www.fosc.com.au <http://www.fosc.com.au/>

From STOCKLAND at aol.com  Sun Apr  5 10:11:03 2009
From: STOCKLAND at aol.com (STOCKLAND at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 12:11:03 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
Message-ID: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>

Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I need  
to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is  there 
some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Jon
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 or 
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Sun Apr  5 10:13:28 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 12:13:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front hubs
Message-ID: <CF83B5C1244844B796F0FBF13D94F732@AtkinsonPC>

I recently rebuilt the front hubs on my BT7 (wire wheels).

When I rotate the hubs forward - as if driving forward - everything sounds
fine. If I rotate as if driving in reverse I get a grinding noise. Not loud
but enough to notice a difference.

Plenty of grease on the bearings.

Any ideas?

thanks

From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net  Sun Apr  5 10:13:50 2009
From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 11:13:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Filter Size??
Message-ID: <D6A7455540584AE49E6A16D609099A2B@Healey1>

Hi all,
            I want to put an in line fuel filter between my fuel pump
and the carbs but don't know what size to get.  I don't think I need
anything hi tech, just something from Checker Auto or Auto Zone.  I'd
like to get a metal one since the plastic ones can sometimes crack.
Does anyone have a part number and name brand, ie Fram that they can
recommend?
 
Thanks,
Steve Meyer
'61 BN7

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Apr  5 10:26:08 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 12:26:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
In-Reply-To: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
References: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
Message-ID: <017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net>

OK. Here's the deal. For about 35-40 bucks you can buy the clutch slave
cylinder bleed extension which will, in the future save you a lot of
aggravation as you will then be able to bleed from inside the engine
compartment with no strain or pain. This extends the bleed line to above the
oil filter. Email Doug Reid at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net. I would suggest
that you go ahead and get this before you start to bleed if you are willing
to wait a week or so. Then, use a speed bleeder at the tip of it and you can
bleed by yourself. No financial interest, yadda yadda yadda just a very
happy customer of Doug's

If you want to do it right now, you can get to the bleeder by pulling your
tranny cover or by underneath the car but you need small fingers.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 12:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question

Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I need

to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is  there 
some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Jon
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10
or 
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
_______________________________________________

From donham1 at cox.net  Sun Apr  5 10:56:21 2009
From: donham1 at cox.net (donham)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 11:56:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <E3F58DB694BA41AF92DB7E312F785DAA@DONPC>

test

From edriver at sasktel.net  Sun Apr  5 11:07:27 2009
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 11:07:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
In-Reply-To: <017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net>
References: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
	<017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net>
Message-ID: <49D8E54F.4070007@sasktel.net>

For those of you who are looking for various products produced by Doug 
Reid, aka Mr Finespanner
they are found in the technical section of 
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca as it an e-mail link
to Doug.  In addition there are a series of technical articles written 
by Doug that are worth a read.

Kind regards
Ed
Historian, AHCUSA
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'53 BN1 '65 BJ8  '89 Morgan 4/4


John Sims wrote:
> OK. Here's the deal. For about 35-40 bucks you can buy the clutch slave
> cylinder bleed extension which will, in the future save you a lot of
> aggravation as you will then be able to bleed from inside the engine
> compartment with no strain or pain. This extends the bleed line to above the
> oil filter. Email Doug Reid at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net. I would suggest
> that you go ahead and get this before you start to bleed if you are willing
> to wait a week or so. Then, use a speed bleeder at the tip of it and you can
> bleed by yourself. No financial interest, yadda yadda yadda just a very
> happy customer of Doug's
>
> If you want to do it right now, you can get to the bleeder by pulling your
> tranny cover or by underneath the car but you need small fingers.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 12:11 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
>
> Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I need
>
> to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is  there 
> some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.
>  
> Jon

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  5 11:45:31 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:45:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous
Message-ID: <586251.54630.qm@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Periodically,B this film footage rears itbs head and sweeps through the car
enthusiast community. B I believe it was last mentioned on this list back in
2003 by Pete Cowper. B B Recently it was on another list I am on and thought
this link would be of interest to the Healey community. B bCbC)tait un
Rendezvousb has been a secret enjoyed for over 30 years by car enthusiasts.
Whisper the words bHave you seen Rendezvousb and youbll receive either a
knowing, bNo, but Ibve heard itbs unbelievableb or a smug, bIt is
un-be-lieve-ableb.B  Now you can be smug: B B http://www.vimeo.com/2250728
B B B or B B B B http://tinyurl.com/c5v8pw
B 
French director Claude Lelouch made this 9 minute film usingB a Ferrari 275GTB
racing across Paris streets during early morning dawn.B  He was supposedly
arrested the first time he presented the film and then it simply dived
underground.B  Word has it that he later admitted on a talk show that he was
the driver ... leading the French Motor Vehicles Department to take away his
driver's licence based on his 'public admission'.
B 
There are no special effects or blocking off the streets. Lelouch simply
mounted the camera on the front of the car and then takes the viewer on an
astonishing, death-defying drive through the streets of a beautifully filmed
70s Paris with a brutal soundtrack courtesy of the engine, exhaust and tyres.
At the end, the driver hops out of the Ferrari and runs to kiss the lady
awaiting him . . . his bell-bottom trousers dating this film back to the
1970's.B 
B 
Politically incorrect, anti-establishment and overflowing with a primitive
passion, "C' C)tait un Rendezvous" is the road-users two fingers up to
bureaucracy.B  Enjoy !!B B 

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr  5 11:50:18 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:50:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
Message-ID: <103541.25215.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

John ... Let the slave cyl, hang down on the hose ...put a bleed hose on the
bleed screw put the other end into a jar . NOW with your friends HAND very
slowly press the pedal down 3 or 4 times till no air is coming out the hose
... NOW push the slave cyl. piston back into it's body and tighten bleed screw
... KEEP A CHECK ON THE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR... bolt the cyl. in place and
pump up the clutch pedal till it feels right           Norman Nock 
PS tell me if you did it this way
TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey
clubs for over 25 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them
together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
        265 pages     Updated
Annually

Both our catalogs are on line and can be down loaded 
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

209 948 8767

Tech Talk
SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE 
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way 
Stockton CA 95205
--- On Sun, 4/5/09, STOCKLAND at aol.com <STOCKLAND at aol.com>
wrote:

From: STOCKLAND at aol.com <STOCKLAND at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, April 5, 2009, 9:11 AM

Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I need 
to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is  there
some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.

Jon
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 or
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From TPr105 at aol.com  Sun Apr  5 12:38:52 2009
From: TPr105 at aol.com (TPr105 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:38:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
Message-ID: <be2.485f5025.370a54bc@aol.com>

break fluid is water soluble just wash with water till it runs  clear

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Sun Apr  5 12:42:51 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:42:51 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous
Message-ID: <d5a.41bb3510.370a55ab@aol.com>

Thanks for the post, that was fun. Crazy, stupid, totally irresponsible,  but 
fun.
Steven kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 4/5/2009 10:47:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jstmorris at yahoo.com writes:

http://www.vimeo.com/2250728


**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 or 
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Apr  5 12:57:58 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:57:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
In-Reply-To: <017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net>
References: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
	<017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net>
Message-ID: <000001c9b620$7088ec00$519ac400$@rr.com>

Last summer, during our return to North Carolina from Conclave in San Diego,
my traveling companion complained that his clutch wasn't working well in the
high mountains of Colorado.  He thought he had some air in the lines that
was expanding at altitude.  At the next NAPA store we came to, we bought
some silicone fluid and a length of clear plastic tubing.   With the Mr.
Finespanner bleeder extension installed on George's car, it was a snap to
bleed the clutch and after that the clutch worked fine.  I would have hated
to try to do that job without the bleeder extension.  Great piece of kit.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 12:26 PM
To: STOCKLAND at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question

OK. Here's the deal. For about 35-40 bucks you can buy the clutch slave
cylinder bleed extension which will, in the future save you a lot of
aggravation as you will then be able to bleed from inside the engine
compartment with no strain or pain. This extends the bleed line to above the
oil filter. Email Doug Reid at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net. I would suggest
that you go ahead and get this before you start to bleed if you are willing
to wait a week or so. Then, use a speed bleeder at the tip of it and you can
bleed by yourself. No financial interest, yadda yadda yadda just a very
happy customer of Doug's

If you want to do it right now, you can get to the bleeder by pulling your
tranny cover or by underneath the car but you need small fingers.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  5 13:05:58 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 12:05:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous
In-Reply-To: <586251.54630.qm@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <860814.27071.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

What the internet giveth, the internet taketh away. While the soundtrack is
Lelouch's  275 GTB, the car was a Merc:

Pub fact: Although various cars and rumours suggested
an anonymous Formula 1 driver was responsible for piloting a Ferrari
275 GTB, director Claude Lelauch admitted in 2006 that he was
responsible for driving his own 6.9-litre Merc 450 SEL for the film.
Despite being hauled in by Paris police immediately after the film, he
was released without charge, and was double lucky as one of the
spotters employed to warn him of impending problems apparently had
walkie talkie failure after the run had begun.

--- On Sun, 4/5/09, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:
From: J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 5, 2009, 1:45 PM

Periodically,B this film footage rears itbs head and sweeps through the car
enthusiast community. B I believe it was last mentioned on this list back in
2003 by Pete Cowper. B B Recently it was on another list I am on and thought
this link would be of interest to the Healey community. B bCbC)tait un
Rendezvousb has been a secret enjoyed for over 30 years by car enthusiasts.
Whisper the words bHave you seen Rendezvousb and youbll receive either a
knowing, bNo, but Ibve heard itbs unbelievableb or a smug, bIt is
un-be-lieve-ableb.B  Now you can be smug: B B http://www.vimeo.com/2250728
B B B or B B B B http://tinyurl.com/c5v8pw
B
French director Claude Lelouch made this 9 minute film usingB a Ferrari
275GTB
racing across Paris streets during early morning dawn.B  He was supposedly
arrested the first time he presented the film and then it simply dived
underground.B  Word has it that he later admitted on a talk show that he was
the driver ... leading the French Motor Vehicles Department to take away his
driver's licence based on his 'public admission'.
B
There are no special effects or blocking off the streets. Lelouch simply
mounted the camera on the front of the car and then takes the viewer on an
astonishing, death-defying drive through the streets of a beautifully filmed
70s Paris with a brutal soundtrack courtesy of the engine, exhaust and tyres.
At the end, the driver hops out of the Ferrari and runs to kiss the lady
awaiting him . . . his bell-bottom trousers dating this film back to the
1970's.B
B
Politically incorrect, anti-establishment and overflowing with a primitive
passion, "C' C)tait un Rendezvous" is the road-users two fingers
up to
bureaucracy.B  Enjoy !!B B

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/gift/
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr  5 16:41:58 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 15:41:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question (NON-HEALEY)
Message-ID: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>

Anybody--besides me ;)--know where Ferraris got the prancing horse emblem?


bs

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sun Apr  5 17:09:34 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 09:09:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question (NON-HEALEY)
In-Reply-To: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
References: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090406090934.939029uzxk86427i@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Quoting Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>:

> Anybody--besides me ;)--know where Ferraris got the prancing horse emblem?
>
>
> bs
>
> -- YES 

Joe

From bn100v8 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  5 17:16:22 2009
From: bn100v8 at yahoo.com (Philip wilker)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 16:16:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Answer
Message-ID: <813731.84342.qm@web62004.mail.re1.yahoo.com>

WWI Italian Ace who was shot down that was his logo, Ferrari used it out of
respect!
 
Phil

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Apr  5 17:27:00 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 16:27:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question (NON-HEALEY)
In-Reply-To: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
References: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10904051627y6aea539fk4db976633e77ec82@mail.gmail.com>

I knew the answer, but not the details, so Wiki to the rescue
"On June 17, 1923, Enzo Ferrari won a race at the
Savio<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savio>track in
Ravenna <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ravenna> where he met the Countess
Paolina, mother of Count Francesco
Baracca<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francesco_Baracca>,
an ace of the Italian air
force<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aeronautica_Militare>and national
hero of World
War I <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_I>, who used to paint a horse
on the side of his planes. The Countess asked Enzo to use this horse on his
cars, suggesting that it would bring him good luck."

On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 3:41 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Anybody--besides me ;)--know where Ferraris got the prancing horse emblem?
>
>
> bs
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr  5 18:22:33 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 17:22:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question (NON-HEALEY)
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10904051627y6aea539fk4db976633e77ec82@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
	<a3b984e10904051627y6aea539fk4db976633e77ec82@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49D94B49.3070107@comcast.net>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr  5 18:33:08 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 17:33:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question (NON-HEALEY)
In-Reply-To: <49D94B49.3070107@comcast.net>
References: <49D933B6.5020601@comcast.net>
	<a3b984e10904051627y6aea539fk4db976633e77ec82@mail.gmail.com>
	<49D94B49.3070107@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49D94DC4.1080002@comcast.net>

Bob Spidell wrote:
> Correct (forgot how easy it is to find things on the 'net ;).
> 
>  >From AOPA Pilot, March 2009:
> 
> "... Baracca's aircraft could always be recognized by the rearing black 
> horse that he painted on the fuselage...
> on June 18, 1918 he was shot down and his body found several days later, 
> a bullet hole in his head and a pistol in his hand.  It was suspected 
> that he killed himself rather than die in the crash or be taken 
> prisoner...Ferrari added (the yellow background) because it was symbolic 
> of his birthplace, Modena."
> 
> bs
> 
> 
> Richard Ewald wrote:
>> I knew the answer, but not the details, so Wiki to the rescue
>> "On June 17, 1923, Enzo Ferrari won a race at the Savio 
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savio> track in Ravenna 
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ravenna> where he met the Countess 
>> Paolina, mother of Count Francesco Baracca 
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francesco_Baracca>, an ace of the 
>> Italian air force <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aeronautica_Militare> 
>> and national hero of World War I 
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_I>, who used to paint a horse 
>> on the side of his planes. The Countess asked Enzo to use this horse 
>> on his cars, suggesting that it would bring him good luck."



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Apr  5 19:18:56 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 21:18:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ferrari Fenders
Message-ID: <20090405.211857.3436.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

A friend has Ferrari 308 & 328 NOS fenders. If anyone has an interest or
knows of someone who may, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIzQa8mbhaqdHk9YqO7Fxb1kTW3k1jDlJueapZ14mSozZlzF6WT2Q/

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Apr  5 19:17:15 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 21:17:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Drawing
Message-ID: <20090405.211857.3436.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

All our coffee cups were in the dishwasher, so I was searching about for
a cup when I happened upon a long forgotten one. It has a pen & ink
drawing of a 100. I believe the artist's name is Lawton and it is
copyrighted '79. Is anyone familiar with the artist or the picture?
Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stock online. Best online broker. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFPBTh7Zp9PVIKV2sIrxZNP5DDZBnCBwvppWoFki0lykY8OjdFzzS/

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Sun Apr  5 22:27:03 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 00:27:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front hubs
In-Reply-To: <CF83B5C1244844B796F0FBF13D94F732@AtkinsonPC>
References: <CF83B5C1244844B796F0FBF13D94F732@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <4E5A9D83B93747B49C5A68BC8BB7D018@AtkinsonPC>

Mystery solved... the backing plate is rubbing slightly but once the caliper
bolts are in place it is fine.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon & Christine Atkinson
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 12:13 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] front hubs

I recently rebuilt the front hubs on my BT7 (wire wheels).

When I rotate the hubs forward - as if driving forward - everything sounds
fine. If I rotate as if driving in reverse I get a grinding noise. Not loud
but enough to notice a difference.

Plenty of grease on the bearings.

Any ideas?

thanks
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as satkinson7314 at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From scvc70 at epix.net  Mon Apr  6 08:08:04 2009
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
References: <be2.485f5025.370a54bc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562>

Are we talking about DOT3 or silicone fluid?

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TPr105 at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:38 PM
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder


> break fluid is water soluble just wash with water till it runs  clear
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as scvc70 at epix.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Apr  6 08:20:14 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 07:20:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
In-Reply-To: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
References: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502C52@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Unbolt the cylinder and let it hang by the hose. Let fluid dribble out
for a minute or so. Or use a distributor wrench to loosen the bleeder
and let the fluid dribble out for a while.

Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 9:11 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question

Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I
need to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is
there some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.

Jon

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 09:16:26 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 23:16:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
In-Reply-To: <FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562>
References: <be2.485f5025.370a54bc@aol.com>
	<FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904060816u41b448ccyc895e0936c4d0e3@mail.gmail.com>

dot 3.  silicone fluid floats on water....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 10:08 PM, Carr&Edwards <scvc70 at epix.net> wrote:

> Are we talking about DOT3 or silicone fluid?
>
> Sarah Carr
> BN1 in PA
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <TPr105 at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:38 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
>
>
>  break fluid is water soluble just wash with water till it runs  clear

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Apr  6 09:35:27 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 17:35:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
In-Reply-To: <FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562>
References: <be2.485f5025.370a54bc@aol.com>
	<FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562>
Message-ID: <49DA213F.3000701@chello.nl>

Either way, don't.
Kees Oudesluijs


Carr&Edwards schreef:
> Are we talking about DOT3 or silicone fluid?
>
> Sarah Carr
> BN1 in PA
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <TPr105 at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:38 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
>
>
>> break fluid is water soluble just wash with water till it runs  clear
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as scvc70 at epix.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
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From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  6 09:47:21 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 08:47:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...
Message-ID: <457834.23529.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Healey Listers,

I recently received this email from a Lady [Monet] who is searching for her
BT7 that she sold 25 years ago.  Does anyone have a lead on the car - maybe
the BT7 register out there?  Here is part of her email:

I'm sure I'm not the first person who is trying to find the first car they
owned. I've never tried before. Recently I've rekindled my interest in finding
it - my 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7. The only scrap of information I have on
it is the license plate # which is California HWU471, which appears on one
photo I have of it. Its original color was burgundy with the same color
interior... but being young in the '70s, I had it painted a popular-then
bright yellow w/black interior.

If you have a lead for her, please contact her as above.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Mon Apr  6 09:52:18 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 08:52:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Lights and Positive Ground
Message-ID: <C5FF7342.13A7%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

How does one connect the timing light leads in a positive ground system?
Any danger of harming the timing light?  Inquiring minds want to know.

Michael
BJ8

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Apr  6 10:08:25 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 9:08:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Lights and Positive Ground
In-Reply-To: <C5FF7342.13A7%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <20090406120825.PZEPE.380526.root@mp05>

Red to positive ground and black to negative hot.


---- Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu> wrote: 
> How does one connect the timing light leads in a positive ground system?
> Any danger of harming the timing light?  Inquiring minds want to know.
> 
> Michael
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr  6 10:16:50 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 16:16:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Lights and Positive Ground
In-Reply-To: <C5FF7342.13A7%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <711487119.4361061239034610701.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Connect the negative (black) lead on the TL to a power source (the battery lead on the starter solenoid is convenient). Connect the positive (red) lead on the TL to any bare chassis metal on the car. The pickup is attached as usual to #1 spark plug wire. 

If the TL's case is metal be careful; it's probably "grounded" for a negative-ground car, and you'll create a nice spark and small arc weld if you touch the case to the chassis. Otherwise, I've done it this way for years with no injuries to the car, the light or me ;) 


bs 





How does one connect the timing light leads in a positive ground system? 
Any danger of harming the timing light? Inquiring minds want to know. 

Michael 
BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Apr  6 10:18:04 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 12:18:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...
In-Reply-To: <457834.23529.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <457834.23529.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003501c9b6d3$43a8a410$caf9ec30$@rr.com>

A typical good reason for all Healey owners to make sure that their car is
entered in the appropriate registry.

Registries don't exist to violate anyone's privacy, nor do they do so, but
having your car on record can help people like Lady Monet have a chance at
locating a cherished car they once owned -- or some future owner of your car
who is interested in finding out who owned the car before them.  
There have been many occasions where someone contacted me for help in
tracking down a BJ8 they used to own, with the desire to buy it back
whatever the cost.  Or wanted to give to the current owner the original
driver's handbook, Passport to Service, or license plate or old photos which
they still had in their possession.  Or were just curious if the car still
survives.

The current AHCA keeper of the BT7 registry is Bill Naretta:
mcroof at ameritech.net if the car is not a tricarb, or Bill Bolton:
tricarb at aol.com if it is a tricarb.  Bill Naretta is not on the list, to my
knowledge.  Bill Bolton may be.  They will probably need the VIN, since the
California license plate is not traceable.  California no longer has vehicle
registration records on inactive registrations younger than 4 years.
If no VIN is available, one source might be the archives of the insurance
company that insured the car.

Robert, no contact information for Lady Monet was included with your post.
Perhaps you could forward my response to her.

Thanks,

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Blair
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 11:47 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...

Hello Healey Listers,

I recently received this email from a Lady [Monet] who is searching for her
BT7 that she sold 25 years ago.  Does anyone have a lead on the car - maybe
the BT7 register out there?  Here is part of her email:

I'm sure I'm not the first person who is trying to find the first car they
owned. I've never tried before. Recently I've rekindled my interest in
finding
it - my 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7. The only scrap of information I have on
it is the license plate # which is California HWU471, which appears on one
photo I have of it. Its original color was burgundy with the same color
interior... but being young in the '70s, I had it painted a popular-then
bright yellow w/black interior.

If you have a lead for her, please contact her as above.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Mon Apr  6 10:30:48 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 09:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
In-Reply-To: <49D8E54F.4070007@sasktel.net>
References: <ccb.47a02845.370a3217@aol.com>
	<017c01c9b60b$39f45860$addd0920$@net> <49D8E54F.4070007@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <D1595DFBF0F445A39349BDE8C5F596EF@ecarecenters.net>

Used the Finespanner extension yesterday.....great investment....well worth
the money.

Satisfied customer.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of E.A. Driver
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 10:07 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question

For those of you who are looking for various products produced by Doug 
Reid, aka Mr Finespanner
they are found in the technical section of 
www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca as it an e-mail link
to Doug.  In addition there are a series of technical articles written 
by Doug that are worth a read.

Kind regards
Ed
Historian, AHCUSA
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'53 BN1 '65 BJ8  '89 Morgan 4/4


John Sims wrote:
> OK. Here's the deal. For about 35-40 bucks you can buy the clutch slave
> cylinder bleed extension which will, in the future save you a lot of
> aggravation as you will then be able to bleed from inside the engine
> compartment with no strain or pain. This extends the bleed line to above
the
> oil filter. Email Doug Reid at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net. I would
suggest
> that you go ahead and get this before you start to bleed if you are
willing
> to wait a week or so. Then, use a speed bleeder at the tip of it and you
can
> bleed by yourself. No financial interest, yadda yadda yadda just a very
> happy customer of Doug's
>
> If you want to do it right now, you can get to the bleeder by pulling your
> tranny cover or by underneath the car but you need small fingers.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of STOCKLAND at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 12:11 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question
>
> Just replaced the flexible hose to the clutch slave cylinder and now I
need
>
> to bleed the system.  However, I cannot get to the bleed screw.  Is  there

> some technique I am missing?  Thanks for your suggestions.
>  
> Jon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Apr  6 11:03:15 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:03:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CSRG Races - A great time was had by all
Message-ID: <20090406130315.2O9VK.385024.root@mp05>

Well ................. the first weekend of racing is now one for the books.
Gary Anderson out did himself again with at least a full second quicker lap times than last year.  Usually when running the MGA (100 HP) against Gary Blacks BN7 (200 plus HP) Black gets way out in front.  This weekend in qualifing Anderson went faster than Black.  Gary Black put on a fresh set of tires Sat which put him ahead of Anderson but just barely.  The two would close up at the turns then the Healey would streatch the lead to about 4 car lengths.  This went back and forth all day Sunday and was fun to watch good friends fender to fender for the entire race.  Jon Solderling, Cully Anderson, Nigel and Linda along with a few other Healey folks came by for some rides and racing.   There was one Bugeye and a few Spridgets joining in the fun.  For more google CSRG.  

blat blat blat varoom!!  blat blat blat

T

From theswed at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  6 11:31:39 2009
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:31:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shock base
Message-ID: <BAY139-W209C176E94FCD1CEAB8316B3840@phx.gbl>

This morning I noticed a piece broke off of the base of my left front shock
(at the front mounting bolt).   Rather than replacing it with a new shock can
that piece be repaired/welded?



Kenny

'61 BT-7

_________________________________________________________________
Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet
Explorer 8.
http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN5
5C0701A

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Apr  6 11:54:58 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 12:54:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Shock base
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W209C176E94FCD1CEAB8316B3840@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY139-W209C176E94FCD1CEAB8316B3840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200904061054590.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com>

At 12:31 PM 4/6/2009, Kenny J wrote:
>This morning I noticed a piece broke off of the base of my left front shock
>(at the front mounting bolt).   Rather than replacing it with a new shock can
>that piece be repaired/welded?
>
>
>
>Kenny
>
>'61 BT-7
====================
It's a dirty zinc alloy that resists welds. When we absolutely have 
to do it, it is quite expensive, and not real successful. There will 
be air pockets, and not very structurally sound.

Peter C 

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Apr  6 12:02:19 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 11:02:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shock base
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W209C176E94FCD1CEAB8316B3840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090406140220.MZZIP.390238.root@mp05>

Kenny,

Probably best to replace it.  Maybe the rubuilders will give you partial credit.

Also a bit of forensics are in order here.  You really do not want to continue breaking these.  Maybe one of the rebuild houses can tell you if it was a factory mold problem (bubble, defect) or ??

You should find out WHY it broke.  Was this broke when you bought it or ???


---- Kenny J <theswed at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> This morning I noticed a piece broke off of the base of my left front shock
> (at the front mounting bolt).   Rather than replacing it with a new shock can
> that piece be repaired/welded?
> 
> 
> 
> Kenny
> 
> '61 BT-7
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet
> Explorer 8.
> http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN5
> 5C0701A
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  6 13:56:21 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 15:56:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Drawing
In-Reply-To: <20090405.211857.3436.1.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20090405.211857.3436.1.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS4DAD32627BE60B45E3C58B3840@phx.gbl>

I have the same mug.  Dono where I got it.  Are you sure it's a 100?  Looks 
like a 100-6 or 3000 to me.  Maybe he made several different ones.  I can't 
make out the date under his name.
GaryB

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 9:17 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Drawing

> All our coffee cups were in the dishwasher, so I was searching about for
> a cup when I happened upon a long forgotten one. It has a pen & ink
> drawing of a 100. I believe the artist's name is Lawton and it is
> copyrighted '79. Is anyone familiar with the artist or the picture?
> Thanks.
>
> Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> Buy and sell stock online. Best online broker. Click here.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFPBTh7Zp9PVIKV2sIrxZNP5DDZBnCBwvppWoFki0lykY8OjdFzzS/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TPr105 at aol.com  Mon Apr  6 14:32:08 2009
From: TPr105 at aol.com (TPr105 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 16:32:08 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 223
Message-ID: <c8d.411113ea.370bc0c8@aol.com>

dot3 break fluid is water soluable  tony

From CAWS52803 at aol.com  Mon Apr  6 15:20:45 2009
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:20:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Drawing
Message-ID: <cbb.37c59338.370bcc2d@aol.com>

Hi Doug & Gary,
I have 2 glasses with the designs. 
One is the One Hundred with the windscreen down and the AH wings underneath. 
Nothing underneath it. The second is a 100/6 (what else) and has the name 
"Lawton - 75" underneath it.  It too has the AH wings.  These are heavy whiskey 
glasses with the area in gray and the designs in black.
I have had these for 30+ years so who knows where I got them.
Rudy Streng in NC
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621488x1201450096/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 16:42:25 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:42:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Movie Alert
Message-ID: <ce473f960904061542ofdb7e92mdf3eb03f31eda83f@mail.gmail.com>

Not a Healey movie, but IHMO, a really great movie, and the movie that
really turned me on to jazz is on TCM at 8 Eastern tonight. "The Wild
One" starring Marlon Brando.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From robertlarson at att.net  Mon Apr  6 17:04:29 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 19:04:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Movie Alert
In-Reply-To: <ce473f960904061542ofdb7e92mdf3eb03f31eda83f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce473f960904061542ofdb7e92mdf3eb03f31eda83f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49DA8A7D.2000903@att.net>

No Healeys to look for but quite a few nice British motorcycles to spot 
and identify.

Bob
55BN1
& to many Brit bikes 

Bob Johnson wrote:

>Not a Healey movie, but IHMO, a really great movie, and the movie that
>really turned me on to jazz is on TCM at 8 Eastern tonight. "The Wild
>One" starring Marlon Brando.
>
>Bob Johnson
>BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Apr  6 17:19:49 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 19:19:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...
References: <457834.23529.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <38E6193D6DD04AA5BBD8399CDF88EB86@ophrdc.org>

Robert,

Though likely a moot point  by now, but the car cannot originally have been 
"burgandy". That was never a colour offered on any big Healeys.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...


> Hello Healey Listers,
>
> I recently received this email from a Lady [Monet] who is searching for 
> her
> BT7 that she sold 25 years ago.  Does anyone have a lead on the car - 
> maybe
> the BT7 register out there?  Here is part of her email:
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first person who is trying to find the first car they
> owned. I've never tried before. Recently I've rekindled my interest in 
> finding
> it - my 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7. The only scrap of information I have 
> on
> it is the license plate # which is California HWU471, which appears on one
> photo I have of it. Its original color was burgundy with the same color
> interior... but being young in the '70s, I had it painted a popular-then
> bright yellow w/black interior.
>
> If you have a lead for her, please contact her as above.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From MonetMLeMon at aol.com  Mon Apr  6 17:35:32 2009
From: MonetMLeMon at aol.com (MonetMLeMon at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 19:35:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...
Message-ID: <cd1.4b8bcdf6.370bebc4@aol.com>

Hi, all.
 
Please educate me on colors -- where can I find an accurate color chart so  I 
can identify the color it was when I bought it.  I want to depict it  
correctly.  Thanks very much!
 
Monet M. LeMon
 
 
In a message dated 4/6/2009 4:23:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
richchrysler at quickclic.net writes:

Robert,

Though likely a moot point  by now, but the car  cannot originally have been 
"burgandy". That was never a colour offered on  any big Healeys.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message -----  
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List"  <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 11:47  AM
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...


> Hello Healey  Listers,
>
> I recently received this email from a Lady [Monet]  who is searching for 
> her
> BT7 that she sold 25 years  ago.  Does anyone have a lead on the car - 
> maybe
> the BT7  register out there?  Here is part of her email:
>
> I'm sure  I'm not the first person who is trying to find the first car they
>  owned. I've never tried before. Recently I've rekindled my interest in  
> finding
> it - my 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 BT7. The only scrap  of information I have 
> on
> it is the license plate # which is  California HWU471, which appears on one
> photo I have of it. Its  original color was burgundy with the same color
> interior... but being  young in the '70s, I had it painted a popular-then
> bright yellow  w/black interior.
>
> If you have a lead for her, please contact  her as above.
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8   rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are  subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
>  http://www.team.net/archive  
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From f9cougar at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  6 18:18:02 2009
From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:18:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Pic in People
Message-ID: <662604.94761.qm@web34803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Got desperate and read a recent People while in a waiting room. A few pages
in, there was a shot of some celeb on locatiion, in a BN6 or 7. Of course the
People dips lacked the wherewithall  to identify it, but there it was. - JRC

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Mon Apr  6 18:41:58 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 20:41:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft
Message-ID: <9E541B5424A144348FAA7EF2292C1348@AtkinsonPC>

The threads on the end of my steering box shaft (part that receives the
washer and nut to hold the steering arm in place) are ruined.

Has anyone had any experience with taking something like this to a machine
shop to have the threads re-chased? Assuming that I would have to lose some
metal and go down a thread size or so.

 

Also, does anyone have a steering box cover (LHD) they would like to sell?

 

Thanks,

Simon

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Apr  6 18:44:57 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 20:44:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft
References: <9E541B5424A144348FAA7EF2292C1348@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <6006C25AD7784C1A9D225284E1F22F49@ophrdc.org>

What series Healey???

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon & Christine Atkinson" <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 8:41 PM
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft


> The threads on the end of my steering box shaft (part that receives the
> washer and nut to hold the steering arm in place) are ruined.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with taking something like this to a machine
> shop to have the threads re-chased? Assuming that I would have to lose 
> some
> metal and go down a thread size or so.
>
>
>
> Also, does anyone have a steering box cover (LHD) they would like to sell?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Mon Apr  6 19:18:09 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 21:18:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft
In-Reply-To: <6006C25AD7784C1A9D225284E1F22F49@ophrdc.org>
References: <9E541B5424A144348FAA7EF2292C1348@AtkinsonPC>
	<6006C25AD7784C1A9D225284E1F22F49@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <696D720A1F1F43A3B364B1501E009F5A@AtkinsonPC>

Sorry Rich... 59 BT7L.
I have an early car (181) with 100/6 emblems so if the steering box changed
much in 59 let me know what to look for.
thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 8:45 PM
To: Simon & Christine Atkinson; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft

What series Healey???

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon & Christine Atkinson" <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 8:41 PM
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft


> The threads on the end of my steering box shaft (part that receives the
> washer and nut to hold the steering arm in place) are ruined.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with taking something like this to a machine
> shop to have the threads re-chased? Assuming that I would have to lose 
> some
> metal and go down a thread size or so.
>
>
>
> Also, does anyone have a steering box cover (LHD) they would like to sell?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  6 20:25:03 2009
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:25:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Drawing
In-Reply-To: <20090406.184406.1296.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20090406.184406.1296.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS15D9D3666541D414A9DFAB3850@phx.gbl>

That sounds cool!  Rudy's note makes me think there were two.  Mine 
definitely does not have the lowered windscreen and looks very much like a 
100-6.  Using a magnifying glass, I make out the name line as "Lawton - 75". 
So there were coffee cups and whiskey glasses.  Guess I'll have to drink my 
whiskey from my coffee cup!
GB

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 6:44 PM
To: <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Drawing

> Gary,
>
> Yup, it's the 100 with the windscreen in the racing position. Sure wish I
> had another.
>
> Doug
>
>> I have the same mug.  Dono where I got it.  Are you sure it's a 100?
>> Looks
>> like a 100-6 or 3000 to me.  Maybe he made several different ones.
>> I can't
>> make out the date under his name.
>> GaryB
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 9:17 PM
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Drawing
>>
>> > All our coffee cups were in the dishwasher, so I was searching
>> about for
>> > a cup when I happened upon a long forgotten one. It has a pen &
>> ink
>> > drawing of a 100. I believe the artist's name is Lawton and it is
>> > copyrighted '79. Is anyone familiar with the artist or the
>> picture?
>> > Thanks.
>> >
>> > Doug
>> > ____________________________________________________________
>> > Buy and sell stock online. Best online broker. Click here.
>> >
>>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFPBTh7Zp9PVIKV2sIrxZNP
> 5DDZBnCBwvppWoFki0lykY8OjdFzzS/
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > You are subscribed as gbrierton at hotmail.com
>> >
>> > http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Apr  6 20:27:25 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 02:27:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904060816u41b448ccyc895e0936c4d0e3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <be2.485f5025.370a54bc@aol.com>
	<FB58A6A4274C46759778C9525287B898@S0026273562> 
	<ff59076c0904060816u41b448ccyc895e0936c4d0e3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W2585264324495300D923DBA5850@phx.gbl>

You need to be talking about DOT 4 or Silicon (DOT 5). Dot 3 is death on
Girling systems.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 23:16:26 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
> To: scvc70 at epix.net
> CC: TPr105 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
>
> dot 3.  silicone fluid floats on water....
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 10:08 PM, Carr&Edwards <scvc70 at epix.net> wrote:
>
>> Are we talking about DOT3 or silicone fluid?
>>
>> Sarah Carr
>> BN1 in PA
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <TPr105 at aol.com>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:38 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] leeky wheel cylinder
>>
>>
>>  break fluid is water soluble just wash with water till it runs  clear
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahpowered at hotmail.com  Mon Apr  6 20:52:28 2009
From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 21:52:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Movie Alert
In-Reply-To: <ce473f960904061542ofdb7e92mdf3eb03f31eda83f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce473f960904061542ofdb7e92mdf3eb03f31eda83f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU106-W505AD10F29546717422B7BB8850@phx.gbl>

Stumbled on it and got completely sucked in. I went to the garage to watch the
game but the game had to wait. I would love to have seen more focus on the
bikes. Great film. I miss me ole Bonnie even though it was a pain in the
rear.

Vroom,

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://www.bgeuroclassics.org
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY

----------------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:42:25 -0400
> From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; jimabnsf at charter.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Movie Alert
>
> Not a Healey movie, but IHMO, a really great movie, and the movie that
> really turned me on to jazz is on TCM at 8 Eastern tonight. "The Wild
> One" starring Marlon Brando.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.

From ghess4 at cox.net  Mon Apr  6 21:21:32 2009
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 20:21:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Completely amazing picture
Message-ID: <A85918B74AAC4AC0BA792C24C99701C1@GalePC>

Hello to you all,  I can see you!
Wouldn't it be great to have a picture of all of the Healeys in the US and be
able to zero in on each one of them for a detailed look?
G. Hess
BJ8/35887





  This is a  photo from the 2009 Inauguration, In which you  can see IN  FOCUS
the face of each individual  in the crowd !!!

  You can scan, double click  and zoom to any section of the crowd.  .  . wait
a few seconds.   .  . and the focus adjusts.

  The picture was taken with  a robotic camera at 1,474 megapixel. (295 times
the standard 5 megapixel  camera)



  http://gigapan.org/viewGigapanFullscreen.php?auth=033ef14483ee899496648c2b4
b06233c

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Mon Apr  6 22:31:18 2009
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:31:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Battery Trays
Message-ID: <35B0302832C34394954E9151AC6A4D67@your4dacd0ea75>

Hello All,

I'm at the point in my restoration where I need to fit the battery trays that
were missing when I got the car.

I would be grateful if anyone would provide me with the measurements required
to correctly locate and orientate the trays on the supporting bars?

Photographs are always welcome.

Thank you

Norman

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Apr  6 23:06:36 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 01:06:36 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Gerry Coker Article
Message-ID: <c64.444d595a.370c395c@aol.com>

Nice article/interview with Gerry Coker in the latest (April) issue of 
Classic & Sports Car magazine.
Best
Gary


**************
Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for 
$10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Mon Apr  6 23:20:12 2009
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 05:20:12 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] 100 drawing
Message-ID: <20090406.222012.14800.0@webmail20.vgs.untd.com>

Gary I think you are on to something-drinking your wiskey out of a coffee
cup-a very good suggestion. Maybe one of those great big ones. Then it doesn't
matter what's on the outside.
Mike Gougeon 56BN2

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 10:19:21 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 16:19:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
Message-ID: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Folks, 

Anyone know if BN2s had the front wheel bearing 'distance piece' (spacer)? The Moss catalog only shows a part for BN4s on. 


Bob 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr  7 10:33:38 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 09:33:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering rocker shaft
In-Reply-To: <9E541B5424A144348FAA7EF2292C1348@AtkinsonPC>
References: <9E541B5424A144348FAA7EF2292C1348@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <102111D4-A70D-40F1-A3BF-51FFB9805100@sbcglobal.net>

Simon, I would not recomend trying to do this. The shaft is hardened  
and you will remove the hardening in the machining process. We do  
have some used ones available.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 6, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Simon & Christine Atkinson wrote:

> The threads on the end of my steering box shaft (part that receives  
> the
> washer and nut to hold the steering arm in place) are ruined.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with taking something like this to a  
> machine
> shop to have the threads re-chased? Assuming that I would have to  
> lose some
> metal and go down a thread size or so.
>
>
>
> Also, does anyone have a steering box cover (LHD) they would like  
> to sell?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Apr  7 11:32:26 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 13:32:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org>

Hi Bob,

When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have the 
distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting up as 
described in the manual.

Rich

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 12:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'


> Folks,
>
> Anyone know if BN2s had the front wheel bearing 'distance piece' (spacer)? 
> The Moss catalog only shows a part for BN4s on.
>
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr  7 12:10:18 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>

I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to  
the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been  
cars that did not have a spacer installed.

I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4  
since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a  
reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may  
have assumed that the owners may drive harder.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 7, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Rich C wrote:

> Hi Bob,
>
> When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have  
> the distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting  
> up as described in the manual.
>
> Rich
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell"  
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 12:19 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Anyone know if BN2s had the front wheel bearing 'distance  
>> piece' (spacer)? The Moss catalog only shows a part for BN4s on.
>>
>>
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fourqz at earthlink.net  Tue Apr  7 12:10:27 2009
From: fourqz at earthlink.net (Carole and Jonathan Quandt)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey front wheel bearing
Message-ID: <A9A28986-3ECC-4C47-94BB-FF84DBC253A6@earthlink.net>

What is the effect of a spacer being fitted to the hub of a bn2 ? My  
hub is so fitted. Should I remove these spacers? Thanx JQ

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  7 13:01:36 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 12:01:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
Message-ID: <429693.20630.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

still have a bj8 trans for sale if anyone is interested i'm in the ny metro area can deliver up to 50 miles from 10965 area code asking 1000.00 in good condition overdrive works fine ,or will trade for a bj8 motor 

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Apr  7 15:09:38 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 17:09:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org> 
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>

This ought to start something with the engineers out there:  With my limited
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs.  The distance
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained.  I
do not think they are primarily associated with strength.  If the pieces are
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the specified
torque setting of 70 ft lbs.

Just my opinion,

George Haywood
'65 bj8



> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:18 -0700
> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>
> I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to
> the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been
> cars that did not have a spacer installed.
>
> I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4
> since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a
> reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may
> have assumed that the owners may drive harder.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Apr 7, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Rich C wrote:
>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have
>> the distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting
>> up as described in the manual.
>>
>> Rich
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  7 15:31:11 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 14:31:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
Message-ID: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all.
I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School and
can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
lightened and balanced to my driveline.

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 15:43:09 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 21:43:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1947511509.5047091239140589396.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My father has surmised--or read somewhere--that the distance piece's function is to 'lock' the inner and outer bearing to each other and to the stub axle to prevent them from turning on the axle. He said Henry Ford took the opposite approach; i.e. leave the bearings free to turn some on the axle so the races don't wear in one spot. 

I suspect Norman Nock would know the 'official' purpose of the spacer. 


Bob 



This ought to start something with the engineers out there: With my limited 
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance 
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs. The distance 
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side 
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained. I 
do not think they are primarily associated with strength. If the pieces are 
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much 
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the specified 
torque setting of 70 ft lbs. 

Just my opinion, 

George Haywood 
'65 bj8 

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Apr  7 15:51:45 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 17:51:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org>
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
	<SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E9F444B949D14D06ACB922F7D132E6CD@michael>

I would concur with David in this. 
I too have encountered several cracked stub axles when the spacer and shims
are not used.
This subject has been discussed at length in the past and I maintain that
the tensile load on the stub axle at its lowest point increases
significantly when the spacers and shims are not used.
Also 2 cents...

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of George Haywood
Sent: April 7, 2009 5:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'

This ought to start something with the engineers out there:  With my limited
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs.  The distance
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained.  I
do not think they are primarily associated with strength.  If the pieces are
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the
specified
torque setting of 70 ft lbs.

Just my opinion,

George Haywood
'65 bj8



> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:18 -0700
> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>
> I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to
> the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been
> cars that did not have a spacer installed.
>
> I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4
> since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a
> reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may
> have assumed that the owners may drive harder.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Apr 7, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Rich C wrote:
>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have
>> the distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting
>> up as described in the manual.
>>
>> Rich
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Apr  7 16:03:11 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 18:03:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <81DEB0D818414E78886345D0F355D527@michael>

This may sound a little radical but I can see no reason why it would not
work. 
My daily driver is a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. With 320 BHP and all wheel
drive this car has to have a very heavy clutch. 
To resolve the problem of requiring a very long clutch pedal stroke or a
very heavy clutch pedal Mitsubishi installed a small vacuum servo on the
clutch line. 
If I was faced with the problem that you describe I think I would be looking
into installing a BJ8 brake servo on the clutch system. 

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: April 7, 2009 5:31 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements

Hello all.
I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School and
can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
lightened and balanced to my driveline.

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Apr  7 16:04:00 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 18:04:00 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
Message-ID: <d32.51179c9e.370d27d0@aol.com>

Ira--
 
I have a BJ8 clutch on my 100--it is a diaphragm clutch and is much lighter  
and smoother than the 100's original spring clutch or for that matter the  
unit on my wife's BN7.  I believe there may be some issues with mounting  the BJ8 
clutch to the earlier flywheel (pin and bolt pattern) but if  as you say you 
can have this work done then you will have no problems.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
-------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 4/7/2009 5:46:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
eyera3 at gmail.com writes:

I have  been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
looked  into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
work? Has  anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
thinking  about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
What mods do  I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. 


 
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421323x1201417385/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID
%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr  7 16:14:42 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 15:14:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org> 
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
	<SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5CD436C3-7ECE-481F-A2FF-9801D4A44716@sbcglobal.net>

With out the spacer you CAN NOT torque the castle nut at all. We had  
a guy leave the shims out once and torqued the nut down as in the  
service manual. The wheel bearing lasted about 40 miles and seized  
the bearing to the spindle.

  If you leave out the spacer you will need to adjust the wheel  
bearing just like every american iron on the road. Snug up the nut  
the back it off to adjust the end float in the bearings. Then install  
special castle locking ring and cotter pin. Now try to do that inside  
the splined hub for the wire wheel.

I also repeat that the only cars I have seen broken or cracked   
spindles on are those that the spacer was missing.

This also goes for several other LBCs

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Apr 7, 2009, at 2:09 PM, George Haywood wrote:

> This ought to start something with the engineers out there:  With  
> my limited
> experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the  
> distance
> pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs.  The  
> distance
> pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
> allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be  
> obtained.  I
> do not think they are primarily associated with strength.  If the  
> pieces are
> not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing  
> too much
> lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the  
> specified
> torque setting of 70 ft lbs.
>
> Just my opinion,
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
>
>
>> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:18 -0700
>> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>>
>> I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to
>> the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been
>> cars that did not have a spacer installed.
>>
>> I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4
>> since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a
>> reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may
>> have assumed that the owners may drive harder.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Rich C wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Bob,
>>>
>>> When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have
>>> the distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting
>>> up as described in the manual.
>>>
>>> Rich
> _________________________________________________________________
> Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Tue Apr  7 16:47:21 2009
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 18:47:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...
In-Reply-To: <cd1.4b8bcdf6.370bebc4@aol.com>
References: <cd1.4b8bcdf6.370bebc4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c9b7d2$d05200a0$70f601e0$@com>

http://www.coloramic.com/articles/hlyclrs.htm

Don prepared a marvelous book that contains all the color chips....

-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of MonetMLeMon at aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 7:36 PM
To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; rnbmail at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Searching for my BT7...

Hi, all.
 
Please educate me on colors -- where can I find an accurate color chart so
I 
can identify the color it was when I bought it.  I want to depict it  
correctly.  Thanks very much!
 
Monet M. LeMon
 
team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr  7 16:57:35 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 15:57:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <52E0D438-C714-4514-8AEF-67086C5CCD2D@sbcglobal.net>

We had a Healey in once that we could not get a hard brake pedal. The  
pedal was always soft and you could see the flex hoses swell when you  
pressed on the pedal. We found that some one had moved the position  
where the master cylinder attached to the pedal up approximatly 1/ 2  
inch. This increased the pressure applied to the system so much that  
the hoses would swell when the pads and shoes pressed on the drums.  
So after learning this then possible you can do some math and move  
the hole up on the pedal and this would lower the pedal pressure  
required to get the same amount of applied pressure actually at the  
cylinder.







David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Apr 7, 2009, at 2:31 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> Hello all.
> I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
> little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not  
> happy
> with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
> I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone  
> else
> looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that  
> would
> work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master.  
> I was
> thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
> What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High  
> School and
> can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
> lightened and balanced to my driveline.
>
> -- 
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Apr  7 19:34:06 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 20:34:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <5CD436C3-7ECE-481F-A2FF-9801D4A44716@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEOCCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Snipped & re-arranged.

<<This also goes for several other LBCs>>

Bunch of them in fact folks.  I know 'cause I work on them<G>!

<<I also repeat that the only cars I have seen broken or cracked   
spindles on are those that the spacer was missing.>>

GOSPEL !!!  NEVER leave them out!!  In reality, after cleaning them 
up they along with spindles to my machine shop for MagnaFluxing
because I HAVE seen them cracked also.  Not often tho.
I ALSO check for how LONG they are and if surfaces are equal.
I HAVE found (mostly MGBs) them 'lop-sided'; meaning that a
measurement of outside/inside of surface Point A measured to be 
different from Point B which makes it 'cocked' which would play 
havoc with trying to get the runout right!!

<<Now try to do that inside the splined hub for the wire wheel.>>

HeeHee, ain't gonna happen<VBG>!!!

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Apr  7 19:35:07 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 20:35:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <E9F444B949D14D06ACB922F7D132E6CD@michael>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEOCCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Also 2 cents...>>

$5.00, Michael<G>!!

Ed

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Apr  7 16:27:03 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 18:27:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org> 
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
	<SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007c01c9b7cf$fdb26510$f9172f30$@rr.com>

Hi, George -

The subject of the function of the bearing spacer has come up numerous times
during the 13 years I have been on this list.  It is my opinion (I was an
aircraft structural engineer for 35 years), plus the opinion of several
other structural engineers I had access to during my working career, that
the spacer has no significant strengthening effect on the spindle.  Also,
there was a bearing engineer who worked for Torrington Bearings on this list
several years ago, and he stated that the function of the spacer is only to
pre-load the bearings and remove their inherent free-play.  That is a common
technique in the bearing world.  The shims used with the spacer allow the
pre-load to be "tuned" precisely.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of George Haywood
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 5:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'

This ought to start something with the engineers out there:  With my limited
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs.  The distance
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained.  I
do not think they are primarily associated with strength.  If the pieces are
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the
specified
torque setting of 70 ft lbs.

Just my opinion,

George Haywood
'65 bj8

From csooch1 at aol.com  Tue Apr  7 19:15:44 2009
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 20:15:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <007c01c9b7cf$fdb26510$f9172f30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <bf7.5802362a.370d54b9@aol.com>

While I don't disagree with either view point, I have a differing
opinion...go figure.  While the distance piece allows proper clearance and
also pre-load adjustability, I believe the engineers at the time saw it
differently.  What the distance piece does, in my opinion, is to change the
bending force applied to the stub into a tension force applied to the stub.
This makes it much stronger.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 5:27 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'

Hi, George -

The subject of the function of the bearing spacer has come up numerous times
during the 13 years I have been on this list.  It is my opinion (I was an
aircraft structural engineer for 35 years), plus the opinion of several
other structural engineers I had access to during my working career, that
the spacer has no significant strengthening effect on the spindle.  Also,
there was a bearing engineer who worked for Torrington Bearings on this list
several years ago, and he stated that the function of the spacer is only to
pre-load the bearings and remove their inherent free-play.  That is a common
technique in the bearing world.  The shims used with the spacer allow the
pre-load to be "tuned" precisely.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of George Haywood
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 5:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'

This ought to start something with the engineers out there:  With my limited
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs.  The distance
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained.  I
do not think they are primarily associated with strength.  If the pieces are
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the
specified torque setting of 70 ft lbs.

Just my opinion,

George Haywood
'65 bj8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Apr  7 19:18:46 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 21:18:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <E9F444B949D14D06ACB922F7D132E6CD@michael>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org>
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
	<SNT110-W27CBC013ED4A5B223AFC28C8850@phx.gbl>
	<E9F444B949D14D06ACB922F7D132E6CD@michael>  
Message-ID: <SNT110-W16A3A861DF079E98AE42D1C8820@phx.gbl>

>> From: haywoodone at hotmail.com
>> To: msalter at precisionsportscar.com; healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>>
>>
>> I think we're all in agreement that the distance piece and shims are needed
for the proper set up of the front hubs. I just wonder what came first in the
design thought, the method of setting end float or strength. It really doesn't
matter that much to me however since I do it the way the manual states and go
on about my business of enjoying the driving of my bj8.
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> George
>>
>>>
>>> I would concur with David in this.
>>> I too have encountered several cracked stub axles when the spacer and
shims
>>> are not used.
>>> This subject has been discussed at length in the past and I maintain that
>>> the tensile load on the stub axle at its lowest point increases
>>> significantly when the spacers and shims are not used.
>>> Also 2 cents...
>>>
>>> Michael Salter
>
>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> On Behalf Of George Haywood
>>>
>>> This ought to start something with the engineers out there: With my
limited
>>> experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the
distance
>>> pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs. The
distance
>>> pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
>>> allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained.
I
>>> do not think they are primarily associated with strength. If the pieces
are
>>> not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too
much
>>> lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the
>>> specified
>>> torque setting of 70 ft lbs.
>>>
>>> Just my opinion,
>>>
>>> George Haywood
>>> '65 bj8
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>>> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>>>
>>>> I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to
>>>> the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been
>>>> cars that did not have a spacer installed.
>>>>
>>>> I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4
>>>> since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a
>>>> reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may
>>>> have assumed that the owners may drive harder.
>>>>
>>>> David Nock
_________________________________________________________________
Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet
Explorer 8.

From Healey.Nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr  7 19:47:21 2009
From: Healey.Nut at gmail.com (Healey.Nut at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 01:47:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <52E0D438-C714-4514-8AEF-67086C5CCD2D@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00163646d5f003de6e046701503a@google.com>

I Erbs -

David's idea is a good suggestion, but will require some modifications to  
the car.

Another one that will work is, when I had some work done on my BJ8 about 8  
years ago, the mechanic (a very good one, actually) made an honest mistake  
and swapped the brake and clutch masters on my BJ8 (they are different on  
the BJ8). This had the affect of making a VERY hard brake and a VERY soft  
clutch pedal.

So... the first thing you can try is to replace your clutch master cylinder  
with a brake master cylinder from a BJ8 on your car. You may have to  
lengthen the cylinder's pedal rod a bit as the cylinder diameter on the BJ8  
brake master is narrower, meaning you will have to push it a little further  
to get full clearance to shift without grinding gears.

You can try this first, and then try putting on the BJ8 clutch after that.  
Those two things together should make for a very light clutch.

Alan

From kags at shaw.ca  Tue Apr  7 20:55:13 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  BJ8 clutch upgrade
Message-ID: <97FD7E733F9C43ACBF65DAD41C919435@computer>

Ira:

For your information - this clutch topic went around this list about three 
weeks or so ago - just before you re-subscribed.  Below is a post that I 
made at that time.  The information is pertinent to you.

Michael Salter's idea is intriguing - I had a buddy that adapted a vaccuum 
pump (GM diesel power brake belt driven pump from an Olds or something) to 
an E-type clutch a few years ago to solve a similar bad left leg problem - 
it worked well.

If you don't already know it, Bill Bolton is very close to you - just 
south - in Oregon.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags at shaw.ca>
To: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett at verizon.net>; "Healey List" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 clutch upgrade


Mark:

It's a worthwhile upgrade (IMHO) - the BJ8's diaghprgam clutch is superior.

The differences between the earlier flywheel and the BJ8 - there are 3 dowel
holes rather than 2, and they are in a different cicle.  Also, the 6 clutch
cover mount holes are in a different cicle, and are a different bolt size.
Understandably, it would be easier to use a BJ8 flywheel, but if one is not
available, the earlier one can be modified to take the later clutch by a
competent machine shop.  Either way, this conversion can be done with either
the original gearbox / overdrive, or the Toyota 5 speed conversion.

Bill Bolton may well be able to help you - he may have lightened BJ8
flywheels available.  If you need his contact info, let me know.

Try it, you'll like it!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb (Bolton Lightened BJ8 flywheel, BJ8 clutch)
BJ8 (Bolton Lightened flywheel, Toyota 5-speed [Smitty] - if I ever get it
back on the road!)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett at verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 5:44 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 clutch upgrade


Hi All,

I am going to be replacing my clutch soon and I was wondering if the BJ8
clutch fits the earlier 3000 flywheels?  I think I've heard that this is a
good upgrade. I'm also changing to a lightened flywheel.

Thanks,

Mark Fawcett

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr  7 21:15:33 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 20:15:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
Message-ID: <25509.63823.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bob ... The bearing does not turn on the axle ....    I always go back to
basics if ever I have a question that needs an answer that I can't   find an
answer .. '' Why a distance piece " this spacer makes the axle thicker &
stronger only if the end-float is set correctly ,see page 57 in my Tech Talk
book .Hope this helps                     Norman Nock

--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 2:43 PM

My father has surmised--or read somewhere--that the distance piece's function
is to 'lock' the inner and outer bearing to each other and to the stub axle to
prevent them from turning on the axle. He said Henry Ford took the opposite
approach; i.e. leave the bearings free to turn some on the axle so the races
don't wear in one spot.

I suspect Norman Nock would know the 'official' purpose of the spacer.


Bob



This ought to start something with the engineers out there: With my limited
experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance
pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs. The distance
pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side
allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained. I
do not think they are primarily associated with strength. If the pieces are
not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much
lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the specified
torque setting of 70 ft lbs.

Just my opinion,

George Haywood
'65 bj8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Apr  7 22:08:18 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 04:08:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org> 
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W22B6598E2B5DFEA6FBB31BA5820@phx.gbl>

I think the distance piece and shims were used, presumably on all Austin cars,
as a way of consistently setting the wheel bearings up with no end play and no
pre-load. That would be most important for ball bearings, but probably
advantageous for tapered rollers too.
I suppose the distance piece might provide some support for the stub axle by
stiffening it against deflection, but the assembly would have to be tight
enough to pre-load the stub axle in tension. I don't think they are torqued
that tight.
Bill Lawrence

> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:10:18 -0700
> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>
> I would assume that the distance piece was added to add strength to
> the spindle. Since the only spindles I have seen cracked have been
> cars that did not have a spacer installed.
>
> I would recommend installing the spacer that was added on the BN4
> since they are the same spindle, hub and bearings it was done for a
> reason. Probably the added weight and being a 6 cylinder car they may
> have assumed that the owners may drive harder.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Apr 7, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Rich C wrote:
>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> When BN2's went to the taper roller bearing setup they did not have
>> the distance piece fitted. Just follow the directions for setting
>> up as described in the manual.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell"
>> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 12:19 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
>>
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Anyone know if BN2s had the front wheel bearing 'distance
>>> piece' (spacer)? The Moss catalog only shows a part for BN4s on.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kaynmike.bham at juno.com  Tue Apr  7 23:18:18 2009
From: kaynmike.bham at juno.com (kaynmike.bham at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 05:18:18 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] 100 blown gasket
Message-ID: <20090407.221818.11771.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

My BN2 is back on the road. The gasket was indeed blown, so I hit the
diagnosis right, it's just without this list of amazingly helpful guys, I
probably would still be just looking at it in the garage! AND the weather has
been favorable to nuts who must drive these things. Much thanks.
Mike Gougeon 56BN2

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Apr  7 23:33:52 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 07:33:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>

I am in the proces of fitting a Lockheed 1,9:1 servo, as used in the 
brake line, into the hydraulic clutch line of my Landrover to lessen the 
force to operate the clutch. If you have the room under the bonnet of 
the Healey, why not? It is a simple and easy to fit mod that does not 
cost an arm and a leg.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


I Erbs schreef:
> Hello all.
> I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
> little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
> with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
> I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
> looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
> work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
> thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
> What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School and
> can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
> lightened and balanced to my driveline.
>
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  7 23:50:14 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 22:50:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <173126440904072250j5042d2faxd1ab16fac3b7c5fa@mail.gmail.com>

do you have part#s?

Ira Erbs

On 4/7/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> I am in the proces of fitting a Lockheed 1,9:1 servo, as used in the
> brake line, into the hydraulic clutch line of my Landrover to lessen the
> force to operate the clutch. If you have the room under the bonnet of
> the Healey, why not? It is a simple and easy to fit mod that does not
> cost an arm and a leg.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> I Erbs schreef:
>> Hello all.
>> I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
>> little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
>> with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
>> I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
>> looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
>> work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
>> thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
>> What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School
>> and
>> can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
>> lightened and balanced to my driveline.
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09
>> 18:59:00
>>
>>
>
>


-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed Apr  8 00:00:28 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 06:00:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W22B6598E2B5DFEA6FBB31BA5820@phx.gbl>
References: <522863671.4872071239121161393.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8CB11EC4741D4C7EA1C18694D34D800D@ophrdc.org> 
	<546CEEE5-91FC-4716-AABE-B12A5CDE8BA9@sbcglobal.net> 
	<BAY144-W22B6598E2B5DFEA6FBB31BA5820@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL106-W799B174FB1C2349D9D608AC0820@phx.gbl>

In the 80s, when I began seriously racing my '59 BN7, I became aware of the
possibility of stub axles breaking. In my home town, Portland, Oregon we had a
store called FASPEC that parted out many, many Healeys. With the permission of
the proprietor, Stan Huntley, I took every stub axle they had (approximately
20-25) to my machine shop to have them magnafluxed, in an effort to find a few
that were not cracked. I only found two or three that were not cracked. By
1990 I had changed over to  BJ8 stub axles that have a slightly greater radius
at the root and have a separate ring for the seal to ride on. I don't think
the distance piece has anything to do with cracking, or not cracking, at the
root of the early axles. I believe the BJ8 design change with the greater
radius eliminated the cracking problem. Having said this, I think I will have
my spindles crack tested in the very near future.  Richard Mayor



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_042009

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Apr  7 23:46:20 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 07:46:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <1947511509.5047091239140589396.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1947511509.5047091239140589396.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49DC3A2C.1040605@chello.nl>

Without spacer the end play in tapered bearings can be adjusted very 
easily and accurately, no spacer needed. However for added strenght of 
the hub/axel stump a spacer with shims may be fitted, but adjusting the 
end float is rather more involved and difficult as you will need a 
variety of shims. The torque load of the castelated nut needs to be 
established as this will be rather more than the 70ft.lbs specified  
without spacer.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bob Spidell schreef:
> My father has surmised--or read somewhere--that the distance piece's function is to 'lock' the inner and outer bearing to each other and to the stub axle to prevent them from turning on the axle. He said Henry Ford took the opposite approach; i.e. leave the bearings free to turn some on the axle so the races don't wear in one spot. 
>
> I suspect Norman Nock would know the 'official' purpose of the spacer. 
>
>
> Bob 
>
>
>
> This ought to start something with the engineers out there: With my limited 
> experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I believe the distance 
> pieces are used just to get the proper end float of the hubs. The distance 
> pieces along with the shims ride on the bearings from the inboard side 
> allowing a very accurate end float measurement (distance) to be obtained. I 
> do not think they are primarily associated with strength. If the pieces are 
> not present you cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much 
> lateral force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the specified 
> torque setting of 70 ft lbs. 
>
> Just my opinion, 
>
> George Haywood 
> '65 bj8 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Apr  8 00:17:33 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 08:17:33 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <173126440904072250j5042d2faxd1ab16fac3b7c5fa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>
	<173126440904072250j5042d2faxd1ab16fac3b7c5fa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49DC417D.7060604@chello.nl>

What I am using is the remote power booster Powertune RLE72696, a 
Lockheed replica, appearantly using some original Lockheed parts, but I 
am sure you can also use an original AH remote brake servo item for the 
proper look under the bonnet and even a larger boost (3,0:1 I believe).
The Powertunes are available in various types through ebay from as 
little as GBP83 for the 1,9:1 ratio to GBP99 for the 3,0:1 ratio plus P&P.

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/mgservicesheathrow/

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/psautopartskent/

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

I Erbs schreef:
> do you have part#s?
>
> Ira Erbs
>
> On 4/7/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>   
>> I am in the proces of fitting a Lockheed 1,9:1 servo, as used in the
>> brake line, into the hydraulic clutch line of my Landrover to lessen the
>> force to operate the clutch. If you have the room under the bonnet of
>> the Healey, why not? It is a simple and easy to fit mod that does not
>> cost an arm and a leg.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> I Erbs schreef:
>>     
>>> Hello all.
>>> I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
>>> little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
>>> with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
>>> I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
>>> looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
>>> work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I was
>>> thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
>>> What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School
>>> and
>>> can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
>>> lightened and balanced to my driveline.
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09
>>> 18:59:00
>>>
>>>
>>>       
>>     
>
>
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Apr  8 00:27:59 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 08:27:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing 'distance piece'
In-Reply-To: <49DC3A2C.1040605@chello.nl>
References: <1947511509.5047091239140589396.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<49DC3A2C.1040605@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <49DC43EF.6010606@chello.nl>

Sorry folks,
I made a slip up, the castelated nut /*cannot*/ be torqued to 70 ft lbs 
/*without*/ spacers, unless you want to do some welding of the bearings. 
This should have been 70ft lbs with spacers and should not be or only 
slightly increased.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Oudesluys schreef:
> Without spacer the end play in tapered bearings can be adjusted very 
> easily and accurately, no spacer needed. However for added strenght of 
> the hub/axel stump a spacer with shims may be fitted, but adjusting 
> the end float is rather more involved and difficult as you will need a 
> variety of shims. The torque load of the castelated nut needs to be 
> established as this will be rather more than the 70ft.lbs specified  
> without spacer.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Bob Spidell schreef:
>> My father has surmised--or read somewhere--that the distance piece's 
>> function is to 'lock' the inner and outer bearing to each other and 
>> to the stub axle to prevent them from turning on the axle. He said 
>> Henry Ford took the opposite approach; i.e. leave the bearings free 
>> to turn some on the axle so the races don't wear in one spot.
>> I suspect Norman Nock would know the 'official' purpose of the spacer.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> This ought to start something with the engineers out there: With my 
>> limited experience after studying my hubs during the rebuild I 
>> believe the distance pieces are used just to get the proper end float 
>> of the hubs. The distance pieces along with the shims ride on the 
>> bearings from the inboard side allowing a very accurate end float 
>> measurement (distance) to be obtained. I do not think they are 
>> primarily associated with strength. If the pieces are not present you 
>> cannot set the end float therefore possibly placing too much lateral 
>> force on the bearings when tightening the castle nut to the specified 
>> torque setting of 70 ft lbs.
>> Just my opinion,
>> George Haywood '65 bj8 _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 
>> 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Wed Apr  8 01:18:15 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:18:15 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Stub Axles and Bearings
Message-ID: <20090408171815.97263llycq3dueuv@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Blokes 

The problem of cracking and weakness at the root of the axle shaft is the lack of material thickness. From the wheel and bearing side is looks like a big sloid lump of axle, have a look in the back, it is very much hollowed out. In Aust. we machine the old axle off, bore out the centre of the remaining stub axle forging and press fit and weld in a new high tensile axle with a locating flange on the back side. 

Bearing spacers are well documented in heavy duty industrial transmissions as required to assist with bearing location, pre-setting of running clearances AND to preventing slide on fitting bearings from rotating on the shafts. Trust me. 

Normally in high load applications ALL bearings are a press - on fit so that they do not rotate or move on the shaft 

Joe

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Apr  8 02:42:54 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 01:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stub Axles and Bearings
In-Reply-To: <20090408171815.97263llycq3dueuv@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
References: <20090408171815.97263llycq3dueuv@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904080142j4566b849hc11d63fa45284aff@mail.gmail.com>

I wonder if someone does a service like stub axle welding here in the
States?
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 12:18 AM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> Blokes
>
> The problem of cracking and weakness at the root of the axle shaft is the
> lack of material thickness. From the wheel and bearing side is looks like a
> big sloid lump of axle, have a look in the back, it is very much hollowed
> out. In Aust. we machine the old axle off, bore out the centre of the
> remaining stub axle forging and press fit and weld in a new high tensile
> axle with a locating flange on the back side.
>
> Bearing spacers are well documented in heavy duty industrial transmissions
> as required to assist with bearing location, pre-setting of running
> clearances AND to preventing slide on fitting bearings from rotating on the
> shafts. Trust me.
>
> Normally in high load applications ALL bearings are a press - on fit so
> that they do not rotate or move on the shaft
>
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Apr  8 02:52:08 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 01:52:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
Message-ID: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>

I just got off the phone (Skype) with the S.U. Carb Company in Wiltshire, UK
about a pair of 100M carbs I have had on order since the 27th of last
month.  I just wanted to know what the status of the order was.  I thought I
was waiting too long for them to fill this order.  I guess they do not fill
individual orders until they are made and then they build the carbs.  The
chap on the phone actually went to the assembly line to track down my
order.  He found the guy building my carbs and said it will be an additional
three weeks before they will be finished.  Not in a hurry over there I
guess.  By the way, Skype is the only way to call overseas.  I waited on the
line for over 5 minutes for him to come back to the phone for a total call
time of 7 1/2 minutes from California to the UK.  It only cost me .21
cents!  Gotta love the intermet.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 An5

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 03:03:04 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:03:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904080203w7e4f2093kb9fe80d9edfa9b26@mail.gmail.com>

Mike -

Yes, SU Burlen is excellent, provided you aren't in a hurry.  Generally
speaking the suppliers have better stock than they do.  I think they just
wait until they have enough orders of a certain type before they start
filling them.

Skype is great too.  I did a 4 hour conference call from a log cabin in Lake
Tahoe on Skype with New York and Hong Kong, the whole thing costed me 3
Euro.  I didn't even bother expensing the company for it!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 4:52 PM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com <
rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote:

> I just got off the phone (Skype) with the S.U. Carb Company in Wiltshire,
> UK
> about a pair of 100M carbs I have had on order since the 27th of last
> month.  I just wanted to know what the status of the order was.  I thought
> I
> was waiting too long for them to fill this order.  I guess they do not fill
> individual orders until they are made and then they build the carbs.  The
> chap on the phone actually went to the assembly line to track down my
> order.  He found the guy building my carbs and said it will be an
> additional
> three weeks before they will be finished.  Not in a hurry over there I
> guess.  By the way, Skype is the only way to call overseas.  I waited on
> the
> line for over 5 minutes for him to come back to the phone for a total call
> time of 7 1/2 minutes from California to the UK.  It only cost me .21
> cents!  Gotta love the intermet.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 An5

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Apr  8 03:09:32 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 02:09:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904080203w7e4f2093kb9fe80d9edfa9b26@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0904080203w7e4f2093kb9fe80d9edfa9b26@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904080209l3c18d8f1x8921474b6555e77b@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not in a hurry for the carbs.  The head won't be back from the pocket
porting and flow bench work for a week or two anyway.  I have still not got
the body back from the painter yet either.  No, I'm in no hurry for the
money I am saving anyway..  I am always using the video conferencing part of
Skype to talk to a friend of mine that retired over in Thailand with his
wife.  It's awesome and cheap.
Mike

On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 2:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike -
>
> Yes, SU Burlen is excellent, provided you aren't in a hurry.  Generally
> speaking the suppliers have better stock than they do.  I think they just
> wait until they have enough orders of a certain type before they start
> filling them.
>
> Skype is great too.  I did a 4 hour conference call from a log cabin in
> Lake Tahoe on Skype with New York and Hong Kong, the whole thing costed me 3
> Euro.  I didn't even bother expensing the company for it!
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 4:52 PM, rrengineer @dslextreme.com <
> rrengineer at dslextreme.com> wrote:
>
>> I just got off the phone (Skype) with the S.U. Carb Company in Wiltshire,
>> UK
>> about a pair of 100M carbs I have had on order since the 27th of last
>> month.  I just wanted to know what the status of the order was.  I thought
>> I
>> was waiting too long for them to fill this order.  I guess they do not
>> fill
>> individual orders until they are made and then they build the carbs.  The
>> chap on the phone actually went to the assembly line to track down my
>> order.  He found the guy building my carbs and said it will be an
>> additional
>> three weeks before they will be finished.  Not in a hurry over there I
>> guess.  By the way, Skype is the only way to call overseas.  I waited on
>> the
>> line for over 5 minutes for him to come back to the phone for a total call
>> time of 7 1/2 minutes from California to the UK.  It only cost me .21
>> cents!  Gotta love the intermet.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 An5

From ruvino at ripnet.com  Wed Apr  8 07:30:29 2009
From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 09:30:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] portugal car show
Message-ID: <E363E6348EB74EF6AB913719EABFB571@RubinoPC>

Just returned from a vacation in the S of Portugal. While there attended a
classic car show in Albufeira. Three big healeys present. Any one on the
list?

No names were given and owners were not present.

Carl
BN-4(L)

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Apr  8 09:26:28 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 11:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] portugal car show
In-Reply-To: <E363E6348EB74EF6AB913719EABFB571@RubinoPC>
References: <E363E6348EB74EF6AB913719EABFB571@RubinoPC>
Message-ID: <001a01c9b85e$63842110$2a8c6330$@rr.com>

Carl, too bad you didn't make a note of the VINs, if the bonnets were open.
Hope you enjoyed your visit.

I have the following in the BJ8 registry.  To my knowledge none of the
owners are currently on the list:

a red Phase 1 BJ8, with red interior, from Porto, Portugal (HBJ8L/25545).

a black over white Phase 1 BJ8, with black interior from Sintra, Portugal.
The owner used be on the list in 2001, but I don't believe he is anymore
(HBJ8L/26081).

a red (originally Healey Blue) Phase 2 BJ8 with black interior from Lousa,
Portugal.  Don't think the owner is on the list (HBJ8L/31678).

a Healey Blue Phase 2 BJ8 with blue interior from Porto, Portugal.  Owner is
not on the list. (HBJ8L/32253).

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA





-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 9:30 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] portugal car show

Just returned from a vacation in the S of Portugal. While there attended a
classic car show in Albufeira. Three big healeys present. Any one on the
list?

No names were given and owners were not present.

Carl
BN-4(L)

From ghess4 at cox.net  Wed Apr  8 11:07:56 2009
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:07:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay Listing
Message-ID: <9F0660A09DA44B48B8A333FFBFF02564@GalePC>

I have placed a set of Kirk Headers on Ebay since I hadn't the slightest idea
of what they are worth.  See ebay number
280330466614 if you are interested.  I removed them from my 67 BJ8 and
installed the standard manifolds.  These are in good shape with no warped
flanges or other problems.

Gale Hess
BJ8/35887
San Diego

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 11:07:57 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:07:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston rings - BJ8
Message-ID: <42287FA3-D946-4570-8267-B81393E46D80@comcast.net>

Good morning all,

I am in the process of an overhaul of my BJ8 gear box and overdrive.   
One OD  task is causing some difficulties.  I have had to replace the  
accumulator piston and accumulator housing due to severe scoring of  
both from the 120,000 miles on the car.  Almost all is back together  
but I am struggling with the installation of the accumulator piston  
ring set and the insertion of the new piston and rings into the  
accumulator housing.  I do not have access to the factory tool  
described in the shop manual.  Does anyone have a technique that works?

I have tried the obvious, i.e., after making sure the rings are  
installed properly on the piston, carefully inserting the piston into  
the housing from the top end where the edge of the housing is  
chamfered.  However, it tends to allow 2-3 rings in okay but then  
binds on then 3rd or 4th ring.  I have located a piece of tubing the  
same ID as the housing and am considering loading the ringed piston  
into it and then introducing the piston from the bottom of the  
housing. Again, I am seeking some guidance from the awesome collective  
experience of the group.  Thanks.

Marks3

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr  8 11:19:45 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:19:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston rings - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <42287FA3-D946-4570-8267-B81393E46D80@comcast.net>
References: <42287FA3-D946-4570-8267-B81393E46D80@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <284D8EA8-6FDC-4D2B-A558-C4CFD5161004@sbcglobal.net>

Install it from the back side, you will see a small schamfer that  
will help installing the piston and rings. Then use a small screw  
driver to help the rings into place. Do not force it they are cast  
iron and will break.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 8, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Mark Schneider wrote:

> Good morning all,
>
> I am in the process of an overhaul of my BJ8 gear box and  
> overdrive.  One OD  task is causing some difficulties.  I have had  
> to replace the accumulator piston and accumulator housing due to  
> severe scoring of both from the 120,000 miles on the car.  Almost  
> all is back together but I am struggling with the installation of  
> the accumulator piston ring set and the insertion of the new piston  
> and rings into the accumulator housing.  I do not have access to  
> the factory tool described in the shop manual.  Does anyone have a  
> technique that works?
>
> I have tried the obvious, i.e., after making sure the rings are  
> installed properly on the piston, carefully inserting the piston  
> into the housing from the top end where the edge of the housing is  
> chamfered.  However, it tends to allow 2-3 rings in okay but then  
> binds on then 3rd or 4th ring.  I have located a piece of tubing  
> the same ID as the housing and am considering loading the ringed  
> piston into it and then introducing the piston from the bottom of  
> the housing. Again, I am seeking some guidance from the awesome  
> collective experience of the group.  Thanks.
>
> Marks3
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Apr  8 12:14:22 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:14:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] portugal car show
In-Reply-To: <001a01c9b85e$63842110$2a8c6330$@rr.com>
References: <E363E6348EB74EF6AB913719EABFB571@RubinoPC>
	<001a01c9b85e$63842110$2a8c6330$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <vIITKlK+lO3JFwjJ@jharper.demon.co.uk>

I
Carl

We have 4 100s listed with owners living in Portugal. Were any of the 
big Healeys you saw 100s?

Regards

>Carl, too bad you didn't make a note of the VINs, if the bonnets were open.
>Hope you enjoyed your visit.
>
>I have the following in the BJ8 registry.  To my knowledge none of the
>owners are currently on the list:
>
>a red Phase 1 BJ8, with red interior, from Porto, Portugal (HBJ8L/25545).
>
>a black over white Phase 1 BJ8, with black interior from Sintra, Portugal.
>The owner used be on the list in 2001, but I don't believe he is anymore
>(HBJ8L/26081).
>
>a red (originally Healey Blue) Phase 2 BJ8 with black interior from Lousa,
>Portugal.  Don't think the owner is on the list (HBJ8L/31678).
>
>a Healey Blue Phase 2 BJ8 with blue interior from Porto, Portugal.  Owner is
>not on the list. (HBJ8L/32253).
>
-- 
John Harper

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Wed Apr  8 12:15:48 2009
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 20:15:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20034.1239207962.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C8F519C71C4245DE950AA5809BB57C59@TM44>

Mike,

I am waiting for mine too. From what I know they have some problems actually
producing the SUs for the 100M. My sources tell me they are in the process
of finding a supplier of the casts, as the previous one was of horrible
quality.

I was told the wait might be quite long..

My (British) friend in the classic Volvo business tells me this is typical
British motoring style of work... :-)

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Apr  8 12:57:26 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 11:57:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
In-Reply-To: <C8F519C71C4245DE950AA5809BB57C59@TM44>
References: <mailman.20034.1239207962.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<C8F519C71C4245DE950AA5809BB57C59@TM44>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904081157g2500e749iede8e8bbdb8159e0@mail.gmail.com>

Tadeusz,
     Not very encouraging.  I have the carb bodies and the intake manifolds
for the 100M, but that is all.  I just thought a nice new set would look and
run better.
Mike

On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz
<tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I am waiting for mine too. From what I know they have some problems
> actually
> producing the SUs for the 100M. My sources tell me they are in the process
> of finding a supplier of the casts, as the previous one was of horrible
> quality.
>
> I was told the wait might be quite long..
>
> My (British) friend in the classic Volvo business tells me this is typical
> British motoring style of work... :-)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  8 14:26:22 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 15:26:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox browser.
 has anyone else had problems with firefox?
Message-ID: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>

/d3M4V8: Permission denied

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Apr  8 14:30:07 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 16:30:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <02a001c9b888$cebe97b0$6c3bc710$@net>

I've never had a problem with Firefox. I don't use it.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jerry wall
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 4:26 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox browser.
has anyone else had problems with firefox?

/d3M4V8: Permission denied
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Apr  8 14:33:39 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 22:33:39 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <49DD0A23.5080403@chello.nl>

I am using firefox and have had no problems whatsoever.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


jerry wall schreef:
> /d3M4V8: Permission denied
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.47/2047 - Release Date: 04/08/09 05:53:00

From bbb11489 at azboss.net  Wed Apr  8 14:36:42 2009
From: bbb11489 at azboss.net (Russ Staub)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 13:36:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <49DD0ADA.8080108@azboss.net>

Hi Jerry,

I've never had a problem with Firefox, and I DO use it exclusively! (for 
years).

Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ


jerry wall wrote:

>/d3M4V8: Permission denied
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as bbb11489 at azboss.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From dwflagg at juno.com  Wed Apr  8 14:48:41 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 16:48:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
Message-ID: <20090408.164842.4396.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

It is my understanding (and I have been known to be wrong on a few
occasions) that the H6 carbs from a TR3 can be used with a little
modification (as they mount on the opposite side). If all you want is the
added performance and are not (I still haven't figured out why) trying to
make an "M" of your BN1/BN2, then this should be the far less expensive
way to go. Jim Taylor, if he still is in business, can do the conversion.
New is not always better. IMHO.

Doug

> Tadeusz,
>      Not very encouraging.  I have the carb bodies and the intake 
> manifolds
> for the 100M, but that is all.  I just thought a nice new set would 
> look and
> run better.
> Mike
> 
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz
> <tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> wrote:
> 
> > Mike,
> >
> > I am waiting for mine too. From what I know they have some 
> problems
> > actually
> > producing the SUs for the 100M. My sources tell me they are in the 
> process
> > of finding a supplier of the casts, as the previous one was of 
> horrible
> > quality.
> >
> > I was told the wait might be quite long..
> >
> > My (British) friend in the classic Volvo business tells me this is 
> typical
> > British motoring style of work... :-)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Let great B to B marketing solutions propel your brand to new heights! Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTMPaErEMEt0ETNqpS4FjmsZ5TWOwqU3kVTYrRgIeoZ6aZkA1BQ36o/

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Wed Apr  8 15:04:51 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 14:04:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <49DD0ADA.8080108@azboss.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
	<49DD0ADA.8080108@azboss.net>
Message-ID: <49DD1173.6010004@pacbell.net>

Likewise with Russ, I swear by Firefox and Thunderbird email.  Also, 
none of my searches came up with anything.

Roland, you use that offbeat conglomerate.  Have you tried it?

Bill

Russ Staub wrote:
> Hi Jerry,
>
> I've never had a problem with Firefox, and I DO use it exclusively! 
> (for years).
>
> Russ Staub
> Mesa, AZ
>
>
> jerry wall wrote:
>
>> /d3M4V8: Permission denied

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Wed Apr  8 15:29:27 2009
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (Heal;ey)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:29:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <CA6C4EE5784F4580A7B2F253AA36C62D@bobsmain>

I have used firefox on all my computers for a number of years with no 
propblems.

                            Bob

--------------------------------------------------
From: "jerry wall" <jwbn6 at verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 4:26 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox browser. 
has anyone else had problems with firefox?

> /d3M4V8: Permission denied
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr  8 15:32:34 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 14:32:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <0CE48A68-9B7F-4236-B12C-9453484E4CEF@cox.net>

I use Firefox on Macs and it's buggy as heck.

What's your issue?

On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:26 PM, jerry wall wrote:

> /d3M4V8: Permission denied
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 15:37:04 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 16:37:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <02a001c9b888$cebe97b0$6c3bc710$@net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

ONE of the other folks I know having same sorta prob John:

<<I've never had a problem with Firefox.>>

Me neither w/browser<G>!!

<<I don't use it.>>

Me neither.  Outlook2000,

BUT the guy said he changed his T'bird setting of "Send HTML"
TO "Send Plain Text" and the prob. STOPPED.

Now I HAVE used both "Sends" with ZERO probs so......YMMV<G>!!

And the program 'should' "accept" both types and may/maynot
change a Subscriber's type to one or the other as that IS a
List-owner's choice !!

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed Apr  8 15:38:52 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:38:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <CA6C4EE5784F4580A7B2F253AA36C62D@bobsmain>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
	<CA6C4EE5784F4580A7B2F253AA36C62D@bobsmain>
Message-ID: <COL106-W20FF7D0239694DEBDFD919C0820@phx.gbl>

I use Firefox on two computers with Hotmail. No problems.  Richard


> From: bj7ah at acanac.net
> To: jwbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:29:27 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
>
> I have used firefox on all my computers for a number of years with no
> propblems.
>
>                             Bob
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jerry wall" <jwbn6 at verizon.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 4:26 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox browser.
> has anyone else had problems with firefox?
>
> > /d3M4V8: Permission denied
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet
Explorer 8.
http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN5
5C0701A

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 15:41:10 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 14:41:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <173126440904080925u3fdb1ac7n804b816fe787f5bc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>
	<173126440904072250j5042d2faxd1ab16fac3b7c5fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC417D.7060604@chello.nl>
	<173126440904080705v37a4815cp66b32035f7da75f5@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DCCF59.6070907@chello.nl>
	<173126440904080925u3fdb1ac7n804b816fe787f5bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <173126440904081441t31738860gab0e26f499ce0178@mail.gmail.com>

I found this unit from  a UK supplier
http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops/Rat_Sport/index.php?cat=Brake_Servo__Remote_
This looks like what you are talking about.
Its worth a shot for about $200.00 US
Thanks again,
Ira

On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 9:25 AM, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I understand. I am researching that right now. I would need to get a
> complete assembly from a BJ8, as it is a different master than my MKI. I am
> looking into remote boosters as they use in Hot Rods.
> Thanks fro all your time in replying.
> Ira
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Some Healey's used remote boosters made by Girling I believe. These are
>> what I ment.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> I Erbs schreef:
>>
>>> thanks. I'll look into it. I know about using a healey booster. but I
>>> thought a remote unit would less obtrusive under the bonnet. seeing as
>>> it is on theclutch.and its a 59  . MKI.
>>> cheers.
>>> I
>>>
>>>  ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database:
>>> 270.11.47/2047 - Release Date: 04/08/09 05:53:00
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
>



-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Wed Apr  8 16:52:31 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 15:52:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net>

Ed's Shop wrote:
> BUT the guy said he changed his T'bird setting of "Send HTML"
> TO "Send Plain Text" and the prob. STOPPED.
>
> Now I HAVE used both "Sends" with ZERO probs so......YMMV<G>!!
>
> And the program 'should' "accept" both types and may/maynot
> change a Subscriber's type to one or the other as that IS a
> List-owner's choice !!
>   
Well, Ed, I sent my last email about searching for the error message 
using Thunderbird and in HTML format with no problem.  This post is the 
same.  I have noticed, however, that HTML is again being stripped off.  
e.g.  No more long lines, weird or colored fonts.

Gotta be something else.  Maybe their server.  Are they both Verizon?

Bill

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Apr  8 17:28:37 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:28:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - Sept. 13, 2009
Message-ID: <16132323.1239233317795.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

32nd year in the San Francisco Bay Area.....

    THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY
    SUNDAY ONLY b" SEPTEMBER 13th, 2009

And now for something completely different.....

Join your British car friends, once again, for a smashing day at the Brisbane
Marina. Over 200 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again
gather in the Bay Area for our 32st Annual British Car Meet.  We have been
doing this on the same weekend for over 30 years and just because the times,
they are a-changin,b webll be changinb with the times.

After careful consideration of the present economy, fading sponsorship, and
smaller attendance, combined with the decentralization of the hobby in general
and a number of new competing Northern California events, we have decided to
try something that is quite like the first British Car Meet in Palo Alto in
1978.   A one day FREE event .......... Thatbs right, FREE.

b" Sunday b" Parking Lot Show & Tell:

This will be a simple, no-fees, no-frills, no-awards gathering of British and
Arcane car enthusiasts.  We have made arrangements with the good folks at the
Sierra Point Yacht Club to set up in the parking lots around the club.  As
last year, The Yacht Club will be offering an optional Sunday brunch and
coffee.  It all starts Sunday morning at 8:30AM.

b" Sunday b" Bay To Breakers Tour To Cameronbs Pub:

These tours take you over some of the most beautiful roads in Northern
California.  There will be two optional routes; one direct yet still quite
scenic, and another with a backroad component.  We will be starting tour cars
from a staging area by the entrance.  Cars will leave in small groups between
about 8:30 and 10:00AM - The shorter route should take less than an hour and
the backroads route will take a bit more than an hour...  Cars should start
gathering at Cameron's at about 10:00AM, a combination of early tour drivers
and people who live near the coast.

Directions To The Brisbane Marina:

The Brisbane Marina is located on Sierra Point, just east of the Bayshore
Freeway (101) in Brisbane,  between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway
380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina.

Cameron's Pub is located at 1410 S. Cabrillo Hwy in Half Moon Bay. It is just
south of downtown on the west side of the coast highway.

Information: 310-392-6605  b" e-mail:  <britishcarnetwork at gmail.com>
Website: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 18:24:28 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:24:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <49DD403C.3060304@comcast.net>

I'm having similar problems and my ISP is Comcast.


bs

Mr. Bill wrote:
> Ed's Shop wrote:
>> BUT the guy said he changed his T'bird setting of "Send HTML"
>> TO "Send Plain Text" and the prob. STOPPED.
>>
>> Now I HAVE used both "Sends" with ZERO probs so......YMMV<G>!!
>>
>> And the program 'should' "accept" both types and may/maynot
>> change a Subscriber's type to one or the other as that IS a
>> List-owner's choice !!
>>   
> Well, Ed, I sent my last email about searching for the error message 
> using Thunderbird and in HTML format with no problem.  This post is the 
> same.  I have noticed, however, that HTML is again being stripped off.  
> e.g.  No more long lines, weird or colored fonts.
> 
> Gotta be something else.  Maybe their server.  Are they both Verizon?
> 
> Bill



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr  8 18:35:13 2009
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:35:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <49DD1173.6010004@pacbell.net>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
	<49DD0ADA.8080108@azboss.net> <49DD1173.6010004@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <dggqt4t7fghrdo503kvsttks3339g6v4i6@4ax.com>

Does anybody think that MSFT's essay URL'd below could help track down
the problem's source?  Something to do with DLL file permissions?

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/286198

-Roland

On Wed, 08 Apr 2009 14:04:51 -0700, you wrote:

::Likewise with Russ, I swear by Firefox and Thunderbird email.  Also,
::none of my searches came up with anything.
::
::Roland, you use that offbeat conglomerate.  Have you tried it?
::
::Bill
::
::Russ Staub wrote:
::> Hi Jerry,
::>
::> I've never had a problem with Firefox, and I DO use it exclusively!
::> (for years).
::>
::> Russ Staub
::> Mesa, AZ
::>
::>
::> jerry wall wrote:
::>
::>> /d3M4V8: Permission denied

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 18:52:05 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:52:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEAADAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Gotta be something else.  Maybe their server.  Are they both Verizon?>>

No, Bill.  And that IS what is odd.  Only TWO ISP repeats involving 6 or
7 users on just 2 Lists.

I am SERIOUSLY beginning to think the prob IS at Mark's end but after
an 'episode' a bunch of years back, he still will not 'talk' with me<F>!!

I think what I will do is the next time I 'see' one of the Permission Denied
posts I WILL ask the MM Tech group if they have an idea.  I WILL send the
results to a couple (each) on the Lists involved and ask that THEY write MJB
direct.

OK??

Me

From insptwo at msn.com  Wed Apr  8 18:55:06 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 20:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <CA6C4EE5784F4580A7B2F253AA36C62D@bobsmain>
References: <17669064.1185828.1239222382225.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
	<CA6C4EE5784F4580A7B2F253AA36C62D@bobsmain>
Message-ID: <COL109-W30CAAD2C215AFB868B6F2FAD830@phx.gbl>

Except for spelling problems (I always hit the right keys but the computer
makes the mistake!)

Bill

BJ7

> From: bj7ah at acanac.net
> To: jwbn6 at verizon.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:29:27 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
>
> I have used firefox on all my computers for a number of years with no
> propblems.
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jerry wall" <jwbn6 at verizon.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 4:26 PM
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox browser.
> has anyone else had problems with firefox?
>
> > /d3M4V8: Permission denied
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 19:00:59 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 20:00:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <dggqt4t7fghrdo503kvsttks3339g6v4i6@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEABDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Something to do with DLL file permissions?>>

Bill, I seriously doubt it (although a 'good' find<G>)
as the MS FAQ seems to refer more to an INTERNAL
software prob and NOT and external (such as an eMail
Client).

Even Google didn't come up with any 'decent' answers
(to me at least) at the specific 'denial' is ALWAYS
different<F>!!

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Wed Apr  8 19:04:50 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 18:04:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEAADAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEAADAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <49DD49B2.4040607@pacbell.net>

Ed's Shop wrote:
> I am SERIOUSLY beginning to think the prob IS at Mark's end but after
> an 'episode' a bunch of years back, he still will not 'talk' with me<F>!!
>   
Ah gee, Ed, it couldn't be because of your charming personality and 
social graces, could it? <VBG>
> I think what I will do is the next time I 'see' one of the Permission Denied
> posts I WILL ask the MM Tech group if they have an idea.  I WILL send the
> results to a couple (each) on the Lists involved and ask that THEY write MJB
> direct.
>
> OK??
>   
Good idea.

Bill

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 19:25:49 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:25:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <49DD403C.3060304@comcast.net>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net> <49DD403C.3060304@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904081825h3a5da8a1tde4a64e6ee6dc173@mail.gmail.com>

Bob / Jerry -

Again, try switiching to Gmail just for this list (like I do), do it
temporarily until you sort out your comcast problems.  It is fully POP3
compatible so you can download all the content to your computer if you want
to keep a soft copy on your local Hart Drive.

But then again with 7 gig of email storage on Gmail, you should be able to
keep 15 years of austin healey trivia on your Gmail account with no
problems... and you can use the google search engine on your email/archives
to boot.  Not only that, the bulletin board format of how Gmail sorts your
email really puts everything on the list in proper perspective.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 8:24 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm having similar problems and my ISP is Comcast.
>
>
> bs

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Apr  8 20:16:34 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:16:34 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has an...
Message-ID: <ca6.42eff09d.370eb482@aol.com>

FWIW I have received several "Permission Denied" messages with a code in  the
body of the message over the last week or so.

Best--Michael Oritt
-------------------------------------------------------------

In a message dated 4/8/2009 8:51:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
shop at justbrits.com writes:

I think  what I will do is the next time I 'see' one of the Permission Denied
posts  I WILL ask the MM Tech group if they have an idea.



**************New Deals on Dell Netbooks b Now starting at $299 (A
HREF=http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219939010x1201342897/aol?redir=
http:%2F%2Fa
d.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213771626%3B35379597%3Bw)

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 20:55:21 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:55:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W20FF7D0239694DEBDFD919C0820@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEAGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Gents (and as I HAVE said before<G>):

<<I use Firefox on two computers with Hotmail.>>

Hotmail IS the LEAST 'invasive' of the 'freebies'
AND MS does pretty much CONFORM to the RFC Rules.

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 20:56:53 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:56:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W30CAAD2C215AFB868B6F2FAD830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEAGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Except for spelling problems (I always hit the right keys but the computer
makes the mistake!)>>

Shirley you DO expect us to believe THAT, right Bill?????


<VBG>

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 21:07:22 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:07:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904081825h3a5da8a1tde4a64e6ee6dc173@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJAEAHDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Again, try switiching to Gmail just for this list (like I do), do it
temporarily until you sort out your comcast problems.  It is fully POP3
compatible...>>

Alan, I have SAID NUMEROUS times, gMail is TIED with aol & yahoo
for it's NON-compliance with RFC Rules.

If someone just HAS to have a 'freebie', then Hotmail AND MSN 
ARE the only way to fly.

CAN YOU READ American English???	Geesh!!

I am NOT on the MailMan tech list 'cause I enjoy punishment.  And I WILL
admit I am NOT a contributor bit I AM a LEARNER!!!  And I CAN read AND
understand American English (as well as a lot of UK & OZ English<VBG>)!!

Ed

PS:  "switiching" is USUALLY spelt 'switching' 
(in all 3 'English usages' I believe!!) !!!    LOL

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr  8 21:08:23 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:08:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has an...
In-Reply-To: <ca6.42eff09d.370eb482@aol.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEAHDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<FWIW I have received several "Permission Denied" messages with a code in
the body of the message over the last week or so.>>

That IS correct, Michael<F>!!!

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 21:27:16 2009
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (Jack Newton)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:27:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Radiator
Message-ID: <C98D42A6F3974660B7454AB543DAD817@jackniolfz37if>

I have an excellent radiator for a 100-4 that is for sale.  I am putting it on
Ebay this weekend.   Wanted to give the list members a first shot at it.
Contact me off list if you have any interest.
Jack

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 21:52:25 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 11:52:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEAGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <COL106-W20FF7D0239694DEBDFD919C0820@phx.gbl>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEAGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904082052s72f6d44ct440b22691d667d37@mail.gmail.com>

I just thoroughly enjoy getting Ed riled up, esp. over something so esoteric
as Internet RFCs.

By the way, Hotmail completely sucks!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:

> Gents (and as I HAVE said before<G>):
>
> <<I use Firefox on two computers with Hotmail.>>
>
> Hotmail IS the LEAST 'invasive' of the 'freebies'
> AND MS does pretty much CONFORM to the RFC Rules.
>
> Ed

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Apr  8 23:41:57 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:41:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
Message-ID: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>

I just put my rebuilt transmission back into my car...during the rebuild, I
replaced the 2nd gear syncro as it was fairly worn.   The replacement syncro
was a steel one (verus the stock brass).

 

Everything in the transmission works fine...except the second gear
syncro...it does not seem to be grabbing and I'm getting a lot of mashing of
gears on the downshift unless I get the revs right.

 

I cant' think of what the issue could be..transmissions are pretty straight
forward and I'm at a loss as to why I would have this issue..I thought that
perhaps the steel syncro rings don't grab as well as the brass ones???

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Paul

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr  9 00:30:54 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 08:30:54 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904081825h3a5da8a1tde4a64e6ee6dc173@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEPICPAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<49DD2AAF.5060000@pacbell.net> <49DD403C.3060304@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0904081825h3a5da8a1tde4a64e6ee6dc173@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49DD961E.4060603@chello.nl>

Get the kids or grand children to solve the problem. Always works for me 
within minutes. They have the habit and somehow the skills to solve the 
problem, however when you ask what the problem was or how they got 
around it, it is always the same answer: I dunno (in Dutch).
Kees Oudesluijs

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr  9 01:08:49 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 09:08:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
In-Reply-To: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>
References: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <49DD9F01.6050803@chello.nl>

Brass will be better, although steel should work, but you may have to 
shift a bit slower. It also may need a bit of bedding in. Also the oil 
used can be a factor, e.g. if Slick 50 or some slippery synthetics are 
used it may lead to synchro problems in old type gearboxes and lsd's.
Kees Oudesluijs


PG schreef:
> I just put my rebuilt transmission back into my car...during the rebuild, I
> replaced the 2nd gear syncro as it was fairly worn.   The replacement syncro
> was a steel one (verus the stock brass).
>
>  
>
> Everything in the transmission works fine...except the second gear
> syncro...it does not seem to be grabbing and I'm getting a lot of mashing of
> gears on the downshift unless I get the revs right.
>
>  
>
> I cant' think of what the issue could be..transmissions are pretty straight
> forward and I'm at a loss as to why I would have this issue..I thought that
> perhaps the steel syncro rings don't grab as well as the brass ones???
>
>  
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>  
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.47/2047 - Release Date: 04/08/09 05:53:00

From dthall at btinternet.com  Thu Apr  9 03:57:03 2009
From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:57:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Components and Servos
Message-ID: <108964.67497.qm@web86406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Listers
Picking up on the various threads regarding Brake and Clutch master cylinders
and slave cylinders and the need for servo assistance may I recomend a company
called J & L Spares Export Ltd of Rochdale, England. They carry a extensive
stock of off the shelf components including Remote and Direct acting Brake
Servos, Brake and Clutch Master/Slave Cyinders, Brake Calipers and Wheel
cylinders for all major systems, whilst having a very good re-manufacturing
service on site.
They are very good to deal with.
They Their web site is www.jlspares.com  the contact being Scott.
No financial interest.
Regards David Hall

From djg at gavinassociates.com  Thu Apr  9 04:08:04 2009
From: djg at gavinassociates.com (djg at gavinassociates.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 10:08:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand Healeys
Message-ID: <2054720042-1239271338-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1661956302-@bxe1018.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I'm riding motorcycles around South Island, New Zealand on vacation with my wife. I waved at several Healers today on rate 8 near Lindis Pass; they were heading south and we gave them thumbs up heading north. Any chance these people on our list? Say hello if you were in this group today. We're visiting from Boston, MA. area for two weeks riding a BMW bike. Hope to hear from you guys.
Dennis Gavin
63 BJ7
63 E Type
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From autofarm at cyg.net  Thu Apr  9 05:33:04 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 07:33:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
References: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <725FEBD2200B41598DC981F4901FCD85@OFFICE>

    The syncros are not interchangeable, brass for steel.  The face angles 
are different and this will be giving you exactly the condition you 
describe.  The steel syncros are used in the BJ8 box only.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PG" <britishcars at shaw.ca>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:41 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro


>I just put my rebuilt transmission back into my car...during the rebuild, I
> replaced the 2nd gear syncro as it was fairly worn.   The replacement 
> syncro
> was a steel one (verus the stock brass).
>
>
>
> Everything in the transmission works fine...except the second gear
> syncro...it does not seem to be grabbing and I'm getting a lot of mashing 
> of
> gears on the downshift unless I get the revs right.
>
>
>
> I cant' think of what the issue could be..transmissions are pretty 
> straight
> forward and I'm at a loss as to why I would have this issue..I thought 
> that
> perhaps the steel syncro rings don't grab as well as the brass ones???
>
>
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.48/2048 - Release Date: 04/08/09 
19:02:00

From westonkeyes at hotmail.com  Thu Apr  9 06:31:18 2009
From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Front suspension camber issues
Message-ID: <BAY114-W52E4EACE5D7EF4DBDB90B1BA830@phx.gbl>

Hello Folks,

    I am trying to solve a problem that the previous restorer may have welded
in.(Mounting Shock mounts in wrong place) Basically one wheel has a 1 degree
positive camber and the other a 1 degree negative camber. I have researched
the archives and it seems that many opinions point to the fact that 0 degree
or even certain amounts of negative camber are OK. Any thoughts?

Can I assume as long as both sides are the same 0 degrees is OK?

    I have explored through the archives the number of ways to change the
camber angle including:
1. bending or replacing with different lengths the shock arms
2. Using offset trunion bushings
3. Moving the shock mounting plate into the right place

I'd rather not get into welding or changing or bending shock arms. I can try
the offset bushings.

How about slotting the holes in the shock so that the shock can be moved in or
out?

I realize this is now generally good practice but I have calculated that the
amount of material to remove is small and there would still be good strength.

Any advice?

Many thanks

Wes Keyes
York,Maine

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 07:34:56 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 06:34:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904082052s72f6d44ct440b22691d667d37@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL106-W20FF7D0239694DEBDFD919C0820@phx.gbl>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEAGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<ff59076c0904082052s72f6d44ct440b22691d667d37@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49DDF980.5050808@comcast.net>

Another data point for those trying to resolve the problem is that this only occurs to me on replies--not original messages.

I've switched to text sending and the problem hasn't occurred in a while.

Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> I just thoroughly enjoy getting Ed riled up, esp. over something so esoteric
> as Internet RFCs.
> 
> By the way, Hotmail completely sucks!
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> 
> 
> On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> 
>> Gents (and as I HAVE said before<G>):
>>
>> <<I use Firefox on two computers with Hotmail.>>
>>
>> Hotmail IS the LEAST 'invasive' of the 'freebies'
>> AND MS does pretty much CONFORM to the RFC Rules.
>>
>> Ed


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  9 09:06:46 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:06:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
In-Reply-To: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>
References: <BF624AA25AE045029B5635CBFC5C54F8@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <B257EDE4-7488-4292-B1EF-66148C10293F@sbcglobal.net>

The steel sycro and the Bronze sycros are not interchangable. They  
are different angles and will not work. You will need to remove the  
transnmission and strip it again and install new bronze syncros. And  
next time always replace all three it is easier to do it right the  
first time and not keep going back again and again.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 8, 2009, at 10:41 PM, PG wrote:

> I just put my rebuilt transmission back into my car...during the  
> rebuild, I
> replaced the 2nd gear syncro as it was fairly worn.   The  
> replacement syncro
> was a steel one (verus the stock brass).
>
>
>
> Everything in the transmission works fine...except the second gear
> syncro...it does not seem to be grabbing and I'm getting a lot of  
> mashing of
> gears on the downshift unless I get the revs right.
>
>
>
> I cant' think of what the issue could be..transmissions are pretty  
> straight
> forward and I'm at a loss as to why I would have this issue..I  
> thought that
> perhaps the steel syncro rings don't grab as well as the brass ones???
>
>
>
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  9 09:11:05 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:11:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Front suspension camber issues
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W52E4EACE5D7EF4DBDB90B1BA830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-W52E4EACE5D7EF4DBDB90B1BA830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6AC614BD-3728-469D-A3BE-F00C2C7462BA@sbcglobal.net>

We have offset bushings available to adjust the camber. If you want  
optimum handling give a little negative camber. You will get a littl  
more tire wear but the car will handle much better.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 9, 2009, at 5:31 AM, Weston Keyes wrote:

> Hello Folks,
>
>     I am trying to solve a problem that the previous restorer may  
> have welded
> in.(Mounting Shock mounts in wrong place) Basically one wheel has a  
> 1 degree
> positive camber and the other a 1 degree negative camber. I have  
> researched
> the archives and it seems that many opinions point to the fact that  
> 0 degree
> or even certain amounts of negative camber are OK. Any thoughts?
>
> Can I assume as long as both sides are the same 0 degrees is OK?
>
>     I have explored through the archives the number of ways to  
> change the
> camber angle including:
> 1. bending or replacing with different lengths the shock arms
> 2. Using offset trunion bushings
> 3. Moving the shock mounting plate into the right place
>
> I'd rather not get into welding or changing or bending shock arms.  
> I can try
> the offset bushings.
>
> How about slotting the holes in the shock so that the shock can be  
> moved in or
> out?
>
> I realize this is now generally good practice but I have calculated  
> that the
> amount of material to remove is small and there would still be good  
> strength.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Wes Keyes
> York,Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Apr  9 09:54:51 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 07:54:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BJ8_Front_suspension_camber_issues?=
Message-ID: <20090409155451.14274.qmail@hoster902.com>

Wes,
I installed the offset trunnion bushings and they are good for about 1 degree of adjustment - on my car the max inward adjustment moved the camber from 1 degree positive to zero. With 185-70 Vredesteins on the 70-spoke Daytons, I do not detect any real difference in driving - zero seems fine.

Therefore on yours you could adjust one full in and other full out to make both your front cambers zero.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
59 BN6

From STOCKLAND at aol.com  Thu Apr  9 10:08:04 2009
From: STOCKLAND at aol.com (STOCKLAND at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:08:04 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ 8 Clutch Question Follow Up
Message-ID: <c7d.46de46e1.370f7764@aol.com>

I wrote earlier about replacing the flexible hose to the clutch slave  
cylinder and was having trouble getting to the bleed valve.  Options were  to 
remove the tranny cover or the slave cylinder.  Could not get to the top  bolt 
on the slave cylinder so before removing the cover, I found a short,  
angled, 7/16" ratchet wrench that I could barely slide over the bleed  screw.  
Only room for one click on the wrench but was able to turn the  screw enough 
to bleed the system.  Fortunately, the screw was not frozen in  place.  Hope 
this may help anyone else with the same problem.  Thanks  again for your 
suggestions.
 
Jon
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From bighealey at charter.net  Thu Apr  9 10:20:53 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 9:20:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Front suspension camber issues
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W52E4EACE5D7EF4DBDB90B1BA830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090409122053.NCR62.597490.root@mp15>

Wes,

Replacing a shock tower cap is not at all hard.  You will want to relegate the welding to a true pro though.  You can save by grinding off the old tower cap yourself.  Positioning can be done with chassis measurements.  In your case you can measure your starting point then adjust.  Alternativly go to off set bushings. Try to bring the positive to match the other side.  Most off sets only give about a degree of change so you may need to do both sides to bring them closer.

0 is just dandy. 1/2 a degree negative is better.  Going beyond a full degree negative gets you into the track day set up and will be hard on tires.

IMHO

Cheers
---- Weston Keyes <westonkeyes at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Hello Folks,
> 
>     I am trying to solve a problem that the previous restorer may have welded
> in.(Mounting Shock mounts in wrong place) Basically one wheel has a 1 degree
> positive camber and the other a 1 degree negative camber. I have researched
> the archives and it seems that many opinions point to the fact that 0 degree
> or even certain amounts of negative camber are OK. Any thoughts?
> 
> Can I assume as long as both sides are the same 0 degrees is OK?
> 
>     I have explored through the archives the number of ways to change the
> camber angle including:
> 1. bending or replacing with different lengths the shock arms
> 2. Using offset trunion bushings
> 3. Moving the shock mounting plate into the right place
> 
> I'd rather not get into welding or changing or bending shock arms. I can try
> the offset bushings.
> 
> How about slotting the holes in the shock so that the shock can be moved in or
> out?
> 
> I realize this is now generally good practice but I have calculated that the
> amount of material to remove is small and there would still be good strength.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Wes Keyes
> York,Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Apr  9 10:29:25 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:29:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
Message-ID: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net>

OK.I'm resigned to replacing the 2nd gear syncro with a brass one.

 

The general feedback is that the brass and steel are not interchangeable and
that the steel syncros were used in BJ8 only.  The box being rebuilt is
actually an early BJ8 that came with brass rings so it must have been an
early model..(trans is from a donor car).

 

MY QUESTION

 

While we all have the jobs we hate, I have one that I am once again faced
with..mating the transmission with the overdrive.  For me, trying to get the
splines and the oil pump cam to all line up is a b*** and usually results in
extremely creative and original strings of explicative's that would require
a PHD in linguistics to interpret..my wife and kids give me a wide berth
when this job is being done.

 

Below is what I do and I'm looking for an easier way.

 

1.	Place the overdrive in a vertical position with mating surface
facing up..
2.	I then place the cam on the thrust bearing inside the overdrive so
that the heal is against the roller on the piston;
3.	I then lift the transmission manually and lower it onto the
overdrive so that the output shaft goes through the cam and into the splines
in the overdrive;
4.	inevitably, the cam moves or the splines don't line up such that it
takes me numerous times to get the things to mate...this is where the
aforementioned explicatives some in;

 

Anybody have and easier methond??

 

Paul

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 11:24:11 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 10:24:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston rings - BJ8
Message-ID: <88B0A6C5-0CFC-4E10-93CA-F97F5067EFB6@comcast.net>

Yesterday I was seeking advice on techniques for successfully  
installing an overdrive hydraulic accumulator piston in the housing.   
As I have never done this before I was having difficulty compressing  
the 4 small steel rings while they are fed into the housing cylinder  
bore.   I solved the challenge myself.  In truth I may have only  
duplicated what others have done but it worked and it may be worth  
sharing.

I visited an automatic transmission shop and showed the owner the  
Healey OD accumulator piston and housing tube.  After a little  
searching he produced a small metal ring with the exact same bore ID  
as the housing.  The ring was only about a half inch long but it was  
perfect for compressing the rings. 

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Apr  9 11:37:24 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:37:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] test- believe my problem lies within my firefox
 browser. has anyone else had problems with firefox?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904082052s72f6d44ct440b22691d667d37@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJAEBGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<By the way, Hotmail completely sucks!>>

NO argument, Alan.

ALL I said was that at LEAST they do 'mostly' DO
'play by the rule'<G>!!

L*rd knows, I don't recommend it<G><G><G>!!!

I've actually got a few 'mail boxs' using a couple of
my different *.coms & *.orgs that I just set up for
a few folks as their "free" eMail addys<G>!!

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 11:36:55 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 10:36:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston rings - BJ8
Message-ID: <309819A8-96DB-416A-A3E9-3A9DAC3ED1FA@comcast.net>

Yesterday I was seeking advice on techniques for installing an  
overdrive hydraulic accumulator piston in the housing.  As I have  
never done this before I was having difficulty compressing the 4 small  
steel rings while they are fed into the housing cylinder bore.   I  
solved the challenge myself.  In truth I may have only duplicated what  
others have done before but it worked and it may be worth sharing.

I visited an automatic transmission shop and showed the owner the  
Healey OD accumulator piston and housing tube.  After a little  
searching he produced a small metal ring with the exact same bore ID  
as the accumulator housing.  The ring was only about a half inch long  
but it was perfect for compressing the rings.  I began by carefully  
installed the rings on the piston.  I used motor oil to assist in  
finessing the rings into position on the piston.  I then lubricated  
the bore of the housing with the same oil.  I then used the small  
metal ring to compress the rings on the piston to the OD of the  
cylinder ring segment.  I used dissecting needles to compress each  
ring individually .  When the ring was sufficiently compressed I fed  
the piston into the bore of the compressing ring and moved on to the  
next ring. Once all four of the outer rings were inside the metal ring  
I positioned the bottom of the piston so it was just barely showing at  
the bottom of the metal compression ring.  This allowed me to use the  
piston bottom to locate the piston directly in line with the  
accumulator housing bore.    A little added pressure on the piston and  
it slipped into the housing without the chance for the rings to  
expand.  Previously, I had lubricated the cylinder bore with the same  
oil. The piston moves relatively freely in the housing and at this  
point it is only a matter of a day or two before the my Healey will be  
back on the road.  That is assuming.....assuming I have put the  
gearbox and other components of the OD together correctly.

Marks3

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Apr  9 11:54:21 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 10:54:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
In-Reply-To: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net>
References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <D9C9560A-0645-4CEF-AE39-4E9DC62E0791@cox.net>

It's been many years since I did this, but I seem to remember it  
being not that tough to do.

IIRC, I put the tranny in first or reverse to turn the input shaft as  
I pushed them together with both units horizontal on the bench.

Wilko.


> While we all have the jobs we hate, I have one that I am once again  
> faced
> with..mating the transmission with the overdrive.  For me, trying  
> to get the
> splines and the oil pump cam to all line up is a b*** and usually  
> results in
> extremely creative and original strings of explicative's that would  
> require
> a PHD in linguistics to interpret..my wife and kids give me a wide  
> berth
> when this job is being done.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr  9 12:52:40 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 14:52:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Syncro
References: <081BFC3522634882A722D18D29824B48@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <08339A977A50449CB2FD4B7F7A341AC0@ophrdc.org>

Paul,

The first point is to having everything already lined up, all 3 sets of 
splines down in the o/d unit. Since one of these is the unidirectional 
clutch spline, of course it can only turn one way. If you don't have an old 
spare output shaft from another gearbox use a long thin screwdriver to line 
up the splines.
Second point is to apply some rather thick clean bearing or chassis grease 
to the spline where the pump cam will sit. Slide the cam into place and the 
grease should hold it there while you guide the gearbox down into the o/d 
unit. Make sure you have the gearbox in 4th gear so you can gently turn the 
input shaft to start the splines.
Once all the splines are engaged you should have the adaptor plate close 
enough to the o'd unit to start the two nuts onto the long o/d studs. At 
this point there shoud still be about 5/8" gap between the mounting flanges, 
enough to get a long thin screwdriver in through the opening and ease the 
o/d pump plunger wheel onto the heel of the cam surface.
With that accomplished the unit can be drawn carefully and evenly together. 
If you feel undue resistance, stop and make sure things can turn. If 
everything's too tight, you have likely not engaged one of the thrust washer 
splines correctly. back out and try again.

Rich Chrysler
> MY QUESTION
> While we all have the jobs we hate, I have one that I am once again faced
> with..mating the transmission with the overdrive.
> Below is what I do and I'm looking for an easier way.
>
 1. Place the overdrive in a vertical position with mating surface
> facing up..
> 2. I then place the cam on the thrust bearing inside the overdrive so
> that the heal is against the roller on the piston;
> 3. I then lift the transmission manually and lower it onto the
> overdrive so that the output shaft goes through the cam and into the 
> splines
> in the overdrive;
> 4. inevitably, the cam moves or the splines don't line up such that it
> takes me numerous times to get the things to mate...this is where the
> aforementioned explicatives some in;
>
>Anybody have and easier methond??

Paul

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr  9 16:26:22 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 18:26:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
References: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0904080203w7e4f2093kb9fe80d9edfa9b26@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001c9b962$372dece0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Alan,

Very sorry to hear that the economy has hit you so hard .   I bet if the 
list
clans together we should be able to get you out of that log cabin and into 
something
a bit nicer.   With the way housing is around these parts one would think 
you could
do a bit better.   Hang in their my friend,  things should turn around soon.

Nice to have a few autos to fall back on just in case, right?

Mark


> Skype is great too.  I did a 4 hour conference call from a log cabin in 
> Lake
> Tahoe on Skype with New York and Hong Kong, the whole thing costed me 3
> Euro.  I didn't even bother expensing the company for it!
>
> Alan

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 19:17:10 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 18:17:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Motors
Message-ID: <49DE9E16.20607@comcast.net>

I noticed Moss's prices have come down a bit--5-10%--on many items from the previous catalog to the most recent.  I suspect this is due to a more 
favorable exchange rate to the Pound.

Moss takes a few hits on this list, I thought I'd credit them for a commendable action (they didn't have to do it).

Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  9 21:40:09 2009
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand Healeys
In-Reply-To: <2054720042-1239271338-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1661956302-@bxe1018.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <2054720042-1239271338-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1661956302-@bxe1018.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <437645.92762.qm@web83910.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Dennis,
Just completed a 6 day drive in Australia, Sydney to Adelaide via
Melbourne in a couple of Sprites. The week before we drove from  Aukland to
Christchurch but that was in a Toyota Camray. NZ ceratinly has roads for
Healeys or your BMW. Enjoy yourselves and stay safe. We are now in Perth for
the National Healey Rally returning to the States Monday. Both couples have
been offered Healeys (BT7 & Sprite) for the weekend so we should have a good
time.
Bob 
BT7
AN5
Chicago



I'm riding motorcycles around South Island, New
Zealand on vacation with my wife. I waved at several Healers today on rate 8
near Lindis Pass; they were heading south and we gave them thumbs up heading
north. Any chance these people on our list? Say hello if you were in this
group today. We're visiting from Boston, MA. area for two weeks riding a BMW
bike. Hope to hear from you guys.
Dennis Gavin
63 BJ7
63 E Type

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Apr  9 22:05:43 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 12:05:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] S.U. Carb Company
In-Reply-To: <002001c9b962$372dece0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <d49b03130904080152t62b7627ud05e0fc74b7ff849@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0904080203w7e4f2093kb9fe80d9edfa9b26@mail.gmail.com>
	<002001c9b962$372dece0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904092105r163c23far5adad5f5fe9d567c@mail.gmail.com>

Hey, I just read a New York Times article about what a fantastic idea
squatting in foreclosed homes are for those in need (I'm not joking).
Of course the picture showed a squatter that weighed about 250 lbs so
I guess she must have another source for gubment cheese, a lot of
gubment cheese.  I really have to stop reading the NYT, it's warping
my sense of reality.

On 4/10/09, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> Very sorry to hear that the economy has hit you so hard .   I bet if the
> list
> clans together we should be able to get you out of that log cabin and into
> something
> a bit nicer.   With the way housing is around these parts one would think
> you could
> do a bit better.   Hang in their my friend,  things should turn around soon.
>
> Nice to have a few autos to fall back on just in case, right?
>
> Mark
>
>
>> Skype is great too.  I did a 4 hour conference call from a log cabin in
>> Lake
>> Tahoe on Skype with New York and Hong Kong, the whole thing costed me 3
>> Euro.  I didn't even bother expensing the company for it!
>>
>> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From thehealeyguy at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 03:40:51 2009
From: thehealeyguy at gmail.com (Bob Abbott)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 05:40:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 18 G Motorsports
Message-ID: <13df1a4f0904100240v2fab3c1fnc70e8595bb445fb3@mail.gmail.com>

Recently, there has been mention of the clutch bleed extension on this list.
I tried to call 18Gmotorsports to order one and was told the # has been
disconnected.
Does anyone have any current contact information for Doug Ried? Are these
parts still available?
TIA,
Bob

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Fri Apr 10 04:39:31 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 03:39:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 18 G Motorsports
In-Reply-To: <13df1a4f0904100240v2fab3c1fnc70e8595bb445fb3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <13df1a4f0904100240v2fab3c1fnc70e8595bb445fb3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904100339m2c943b68m95ece53383232992@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
     What number did you call?  I just received parts for the clutch bleed
extension from Doug.  I have attached the ecard he sent me when I asked him
for these parts by email,  See attachment:

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5







On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 2:40 AM, Bob Abbott <thehealeyguy at gmail.com> wrote:

> Recently, there has been mention of the clutch bleed extension on this
> list.
> I tried to call 18Gmotorsports to order one and was told the # has been
> disconnected.
> Does anyone have any current contact information for Doug Ried? Are these
> parts still available?
> TIA,
> Bob

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ecard.jpg]

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Apr 10 05:40:38 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 04:40:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
Message-ID: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>

No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
anyone who has tried this stuff though.

 

http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 

 

 

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr 10 06:01:24 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:01:24 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
References: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
Message-ID: <49DF3514.1020800@chello.nl>

Sounds plausible enough, it does not cost that much, and it's from a 
serious company that is not really associated with selling "fried air"  
(old Dutch expression). Perhaps worth a try.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Tracy Drummond schreef:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
>
>  
>
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.50/2051 - Release Date: 04/09/09 19:01:00

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Apr 10 06:26:30 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 08:26:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 18 G Motorsports
In-Reply-To: <13df1a4f0904100240v2fab3c1fnc70e8595bb445fb3@mail.gmail.com>
References: <13df1a4f0904100240v2fab3c1fnc70e8595bb445fb3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03cc01c9b9d7$943b9610$bcb2c230$@net>

Your best bet s to email him at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net . Doug now
works full time at:  www.britishandclassics.com Do not know if you can call
him at his work number but I have had several email exchanges with him in
the past week.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Abbott
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 5:41 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 18 G Motorsports

Recently, there has been mention of the clutch bleed extension on this list.
I tried to call 18Gmotorsports to order one and was told the # has been
disconnected.
Does anyone have any current contact information for Doug Ried? Are these
parts still available?
TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Apr 10 06:31:19 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 05:31:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
References: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
Message-ID: <49DF3C17.9060302@comcast.net>

Waiting for one of our Canadian brethren to comment that "we've been freezing our nuts off forever."


Bob


Tracy Drummond wrote:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
> 
>  
> 
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 07:35:17 2009
From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 06:35:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <49DF3C17.9060302@comcast.net>
References: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
	<49DF3C17.9060302@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <242254.20002.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

The magazine Practical Sailor had a thorough review of the usual penetrating solvents and included this product in the tests. It article was just a couple of issues ago. 

Jim Brown 
To: Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:31:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

Waiting for one of our Canadian brethren to comment that "we've been freezing our nuts off forever."


Bob


Tracy Drummond wrote:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
> 
>  
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
>  
>  
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org



-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From john.heffron at ey.com  Fri Apr 10 08:01:14 2009
From: john.heffron at ey.com (john.heffron at ey.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 10:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF2D59E4A7.8C5AE252-ON85257594.004D0470-85257594.004D0470@EY.COM>

I will be out of the office starting  04/10/2009 and will not return until
04/16/2009.



Any U.S. tax advice contained in the body of this e-mail was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, by the recipient for the purpose of avoiding penalties that may be imposed under the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions.
________________________________________________________________________
The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and protected from disclosure.  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. 

Notice required by law:  This e-mail may constitute an advertisement or solicitation under U.S. law, if its primary purpose is to advertise or promote a commercial product or service.   You may choose not to receive advertising and promotional messages from Ernst & Young LLP (except for Ernst & Young Online and the ey.com website, which track e-mail preferences through a separate process) at this e-mail address by forwarding this message to no-more-mail at ey.com.  If you do so, the sender of this message will be notified promptly. Our principal postal address is 5 Times Square, New York, NY 10036. Thank you.  Ernst & Young LLP

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Fri Apr 10 08:56:10 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 06:56:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Great_Wheel_Cleaner?=
Message-ID: <20090410145610.3180.qmail@hoster902.com>

Last weekend I used Mother's Chrome & Wire Wheel Cleaner for the first time on my 70-spoke chrome/stainless Daytons.

Its the first wheel cleaner I've used that completely hoses off with no haze whatsoever with absolutely no wiping or agitating of any kind. Well worth the nearly 10 bucks a bottle.

I've used others and they always leave a haze that must be wiped off by hand.

No interest.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
BN6

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri Apr 10 09:19:33 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 10:19:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <242254.20002.qm@web58602.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <85E0DA21DB2F475AA2F266AF2F2CCE0D@DANSTROM>

Jim:
So what did the article conclude was the best penetrating solvent/method?
Dan


 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jim brown
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

The magazine Practical Sailor had a thorough review of the usual penetrating
solvents and included this product in the tests. It article was just a
couple of issues ago. 

Jim Brown 
To: Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:31:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

Waiting for one of our Canadian brethren to comment that "we've been
freezing our nuts off forever."


Bob


Tracy Drummond wrote:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
> 
>  
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
>  
>  
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org



-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From westonkeyes at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 10 09:38:24 2009
From: westonkeyes at hotmail.com (Weston Keyes)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:38:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock/latch BJ8
Message-ID: <BAY114-W47E1554BD89BBAF65C20FEBA800@phx.gbl>

Hello Folks,

   Thanks for all the help with my front end camber issues. I have ordered
some offset bushes and will try that.

I am finding that no one seems to make a reproduction glove box lock/latch. I
have tried:

Moss
British Car Specialists
Healy Surgeons
Victoria British

Plus a bunch of smaller companies.

Does anyone have any other sources?

Thanks

Wes Keyes
York, Maine

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Apr 10 09:49:21 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:49:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock/latch BJ8
References: <BAY114-W47E1554BD89BBAF65C20FEBA800@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8A17D0AE1E064C6DB632AE30428DDCF0@ophrdc.org>

Wes,

You'll have to find original used parts. These are made of "unobtainium". 
Apparently Nash Metropolitans have the same lock assembly.

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Weston Keyes" <westonkeyes at hotmail.com>
To: "Ahealey Ahealey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock/latch BJ8


> Hello Folks,
>
>   Thanks for all the help with my front end camber issues. I have ordered
> some offset bushes and will try that.
>
> I am finding that no one seems to make a reproduction glove box 
> lock/latch. I
> have tried:
>
> Moss
> British Car Specialists
> Healy Surgeons
> Victoria British
>
> Plus a bunch of smaller companies.
>
> Does anyone have any other sources?
>
> Thanks
>
> Wes Keyes
> York, Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 10 10:05:12 2009
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:05:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sparkplug caps  -
Message-ID: <BAY103-W45D9388F0125DDFBC8B6B3D1800@phx.gbl>

Healey List:

I am currently restoring a 1967 BJ8 for a client and the sparkplug caps are
not Champion, instead they are marked KLG Made in England. Since most
everything on the car was original, I wonder if some of the BJ8 came with
sparkplug caps other than Champion.

Thanks for the help.



Jean Caron

Vintage Roadster Restoration

_________________________________________________________________
Share photos with friends on Windows Live Messenger
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650734

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 10 10:20:48 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:20:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock/latch BJ8
In-Reply-To: <8A17D0AE1E064C6DB632AE30428DDCF0@ophrdc.org>
References: <BAY114-W47E1554BD89BBAF65C20FEBA800@phx.gbl>
	<8A17D0AE1E064C6DB632AE30428DDCF0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W700321A1A21BDB45167098D5800@phx.gbl>

Wes



Cape list them quite cheapish, and list a replica, not sure what they are
like:



http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=13&thepart=ALH1896



http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=13&thepart=ALH1896S



best to contact Steve and see whats what.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more!
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr 10 10:34:55 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:34:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Glove box lock/latch BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-W47E1554BD89BBAF65C20FEBA800@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-W47E1554BD89BBAF65C20FEBA800@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49DF752F.4010108@chello.nl>

I have a box of unidentified locks lying about. They are all British 
made. If you have a few pictures of an original lock I can have a look 
if one is suitable.
Kees Oudesluijs


Weston Keyes schreef:
> Hello Folks,
>
>    Thanks for all the help with my front end camber issues. I have ordered
> some offset bushes and will try that.
>
> I am finding that no one seems to make a reproduction glove box lock/latch. I
> have tried:
>
> Moss
> British Car Specialists
> Healy Surgeons
> Victoria British
>
> Plus a bunch of smaller companies.
>
> Does anyone have any other sources?
>
> Thanks
>
> Wes Keyes
> York, Maine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.50/2051 - Release Date: 04/09/09 19:01:00

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 10:46:09 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 09:46:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Semi - OT] New car
Message-ID: <471534970904100946i5478ddcy28aad6d516dcda05@mail.gmail.com>

So, I haven't done anything on the AH in the last week or so, but at
least I have a really good excuse as to why.

My Mum found this gem of a 1878 Triumph Spitfire and brought it home:
http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/TS78/ProjectTS78.aspx

I've been going over it, and short of some suspnsion work (aka
bushings and shocks), it's totally driveable!

I don't think I've ever acquired a car that I didn't have to tear
apart before driving, it's very strange.

Jody

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From autofarm at cyg.net  Fri Apr 10 11:32:54 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 13:32:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Semi - OT] New car
References: <471534970904100946i5478ddcy28aad6d516dcda05@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1CAD01052CB74791B677BE799375436B@OFFICE>

    Looks great for 131 years old!  And they say they didn't last!
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 12:46 PM
Subject: [Healeys] [Semi - OT] New car


> So, I haven't done anything on the AH in the last week or so, but at
> least I have a really good excuse as to why.
>
> My Mum found this gem of a 1878 Triumph Spitfire and brought it home:
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/TS78/ProjectTS78.aspx
>
> I've been going over it, and short of some suspnsion work (aka
> bushings and shocks), it's totally driveable!
>
> I don't think I've ever acquired a car that I didn't have to tear
> apart before driving, it's very strange.
>
> Jody
>
> -- 
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
> 1953 Studebaker Champion
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on 
> ebay!
>
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.51/2052 - Release Date: 04/10/09 
06:39:00

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Fri Apr 10 11:46:27 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 09:46:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Loctite_Freeze_=26_Release?=
Message-ID: <20090410174627.14145.qmail@hoster902.com>

It would be interesting if someone on the list planning on replacing their lower A-arm bushings could use this product and report back how it works. Ditto the rear-spring front bolt.

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 12:22:37 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:22:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Semi - OT] New car
In-Reply-To: <1CAD01052CB74791B677BE799375436B@OFFICE>
References: <471534970904100946i5478ddcy28aad6d516dcda05@mail.gmail.com>
	<1CAD01052CB74791B677BE799375436B@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <471534970904101122r7f581c88k2c0985fa3a347a6b@mail.gmail.com>

Gah, I *meant* 1978 :)

I need to spend more time proofreading, less time bragging, apparently. :)

Jody

On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 10:32 AM, Bob Yule <autofarm at cyg.net> wrote:
>   Looks great for 131 years old!  And they say they didn't last!
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr at gmail.com>
> To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 12:46 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] [Semi - OT] New car
>
>
>> So, I haven't done anything on the AH in the last week or so, but at
>> least I have a really good excuse as to why.
>>
>> My Mum found this gem of a 1878 Triumph Spitfire and brought it home:
>> http://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/TS78/ProjectTS78.aspx
>>
>> I've been going over it, and short of some suspnsion work (aka
>> bushings and shocks), it's totally driveable!
>>
>> I don't think I've ever acquired a car that I didn't have to tear
>> apart before driving, it's very strange.
>>
>> Jody
>>
>> --
>> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
>> 1953 Studebaker Champion
>> 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
>> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
>> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
>> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
>> http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on
>> ebay!
>>
>> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
>> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
>> disinclination to do so."
>> --Douglas Adams
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.51/2052 - Release Date: 04/10/09
> 06:39:00
>
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From charlieoc at comcast.net  Fri Apr 10 15:56:02 2009
From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 17:56:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help Installing a New Top
Message-ID: <023201c9ba27$24632ce0$6d2986a0$@net>

I'm installing a new top (Robbins) on my '60 BT7.  I don't have an old top
to go by, so I'm hoping someone can send me photos showing how the front
looks.  It appears that I have too much material, but I don't want to cut
anything unless I'm sure.  Photos would be a great help if anyone has some
that show the finished top.  Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Charlie

Tallahassee, Florida

From ei_timo415 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 16:26:43 2009
From: ei_timo415 at yahoo.com (Roy Bowman)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Motors
Message-ID: <898394.73892.qm@web110409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 
They made a business decision, not as a favor to us or to be
a good corporate citizen.  Others are lowering prices as well.
Not only changes in exchange rates, but the result of less demand
due to loss of disposable income among us all.
 
Prices will undoubtedly rise again whenever the demand picks up.
And it will.
 
Roy Bowman
Indianapolis, IN
BJ8 28985
 

--- On Thu, 4/9/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Moss Motors
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009, 9:17 PM


I noticed Moss's prices have come down a bit--5-10%--on many items from the
previous catalog to the most recent.  I suspect this is due to a more
favorable exchange rate to the Pound.

Moss takes a few hits on this list, I thought I'd credit them for a
commendable action (they didn't have to do it).

Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ei_timo415 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From palmbeachderm at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 17:10:57 2009
From: palmbeachderm at yahoo.com (steven rosenberg md)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge  issues
Message-ID: <93110.3210.qm@web53703.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

my oil pressure guage needle has started to swing very rapidly  between 35 to
45 when idling or the clutch is engaged. driving the needle stays steady at
about 50. the fuel guage also is realtively steady while driving but swings
almost 1/2 way when clutch engaged
any ideas?


The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any
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in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
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contact the sender and delete the material from any computer. Because e-mail
can be altered electronically, the integrity of this communication cannot be
guaranteed.

From jbrown5093 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 17:41:16 2009
From: jbrown5093 at yahoo.com (jim brown)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:41:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <85E0DA21DB2F475AA2F266AF2F2CCE0D@DANSTROM>
References: <85E0DA21DB2F475AA2F266AF2F2CCE0D@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <764124.61571.qm@web58605.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Sorry I was incorrect. The freezing product they tested was not Loctite but CRC Freeze-off although I suspect it;s almost the same as the Loctite. Same principle at least. The worst was WD-40, slighlty better was Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster was the best by far. The CRC was about equal to the PB. You spray for 10 sec to drop the temperature 70 degrees or so opening cracks and micorscopic fissures in the rust allowing the penetrants in the product to better get into the threads. They did caution using where it would contact rubber parts. Remember this was a trial to see which worked best on glass boats. 

Jim Brown


________________________________
From: Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 11:19:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

Jim:
So what did the article conclude was the best penetrating solvent/method?
Dan



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jim brown
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

The magazine Practical Sailor had a thorough review of the usual penetrating
solvents and included this product in the tests. It article was just a
couple of issues ago. 

Jim Brown 
To: Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:31:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts

Waiting for one of our Canadian brethren to comment that "we've been
freezing our nuts off forever."


Bob


Tracy Drummond wrote:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
> 
>  
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
>  
>  
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org



-- *******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jbrown5093 at yahoo.com

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From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Fri Apr 10 20:51:48 2009
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 19:51:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 18G clarification
Message-ID: <F0F22FB446F547BBA9D30115BD7AD94F@ElComputero>

Yo List,
I wanted to elaborate on John's post just a bit.  I do have a day job at 
British
& Classic Car Doctors in Upperville, VA. www.britishandclassics.com .  18G
Motorworks is alive but now exists mainly as a parts and paint supplier, 
with
several loyal long-time customers for whom I still do service.  I continue 
to offer
brake and fuel lines, and other bits, but it takes me a little longer these 
days so
allow for some lead time when ordering lines.  The best means of contact is 
an
email to mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (ignore the SpamBlocker) but I can take
BRIEF calls at work.
regards,
Doug Reid, British & Classic Car Doctors and 18G on the side


>Message: 14
>Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 08:26:30 -0400
>From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] 18 G Motorsports
>To: "'Bob Abbott'" <thehealeyguy at gmail.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <03cc01c9b9d7$943b9610$bcb2c230$@net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

>Your best bet s to email him at: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net . Doug now
>works full time at:  www.britishandclassics.com Do not know if you can call
>him at his work number but I have had several email exchanges with him in
>the past week.

>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ

>www.healey6.com

From eyera3 at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 21:30:15 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 20:30:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch improvements
In-Reply-To: <49DC417D.7060604@chello.nl>
References: <173126440904071431j6b97bf50kdd2e4b5344f723b9@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC3740.3090300@chello.nl>
	<173126440904072250j5042d2faxd1ab16fac3b7c5fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<49DC417D.7060604@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>

Ok,
I just bought the unit with the 3.0.1 ratio. came to $221.00 US with
shipping. Went to the sugeon today. Knee replacement is doing fine, knee is
just too damaged to use the stock clutch. I'm 53 and plan to drive this
thing for many more years to come.
Thanks Kees,
Ira

On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 11:17 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> What I am using is the remote power booster Powertune RLE72696, a Lockheed
> replica, appearantly using some original Lockheed parts, but I am sure you
> can also use an original AH remote brake servo item for the proper look
> under the bonnet and even a larger boost (3,0:1 I believe).
> The Powertunes are available in various types through ebay from as little
> as GBP83 for the 1,9:1 ratio to GBP99 for the 3,0:1 ratio plus P&P.
>
> http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/mgservicesheathrow/
>
> http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/psautopartskent/
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> I Erbs schreef:
>
>> do you have part#s?
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>>
>> On 4/7/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I am in the proces of fitting a Lockheed 1,9:1 servo, as used in the
>>> brake line, into the hydraulic clutch line of my Landrover to lessen the
>>> force to operate the clutch. If you have the room under the bonnet of
>>> the Healey, why not? It is a simple and easy to fit mod that does not
>>> cost an arm and a leg.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> NL
>>>
>>>
>>> I Erbs schreef:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hello all.
>>>> I had my left knee replaced last May, and was hoping that I would have
>>>> little to no pain when driving my 59 BT7. No luck, the knee is not happy
>>>> with the amount of force I need to apply to the clutch.
>>>> I have been told that the BJ8 assembly is easier to use. Has anyone else
>>>> looked into this? Is there a smaller bore cylinder out there that would
>>>> work? Has anyone tried to add a power booster to the clutch master. I
>>>> was
>>>> thinking about how hot roddders use a remote booster on the brakes....
>>>> What mods do I need to do to use a BJ8 clutch?. I work at a High School
>>>> and
>>>> can get what ever I need machined or fabricated.\The flywheel has been
>>>> lightened and balanced to my driveline.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date:
>>>> 04/06/09
>>>> 18:59:00
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>  ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database:
>> 270.11.44/2044 - Release Date: 04/06/09 18:59:00
>>
>>
>>
>
>


-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Fri Apr 10 21:35:23 2009
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 03:35:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B  Must
be nice...

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr 10 22:17:18 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 23:17:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <223C122F381C4EF2B4ADD573C9E0C83F@GregPC>

I am watching too, recession?, what recession?, still think six figures for 
a production big healey is big money, even though we had some BJ8s hit a 
little north of there at B-J the last couple years.

Greg Lemon

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 05:07:25 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:07:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sparkplug caps  -
References: <BAY103-W45D9388F0125DDFBC8B6B3D1800@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002e01c9ba95$b27ade60$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Jean,   nice to hear of another restoration company available.   Where are 
you
located and where might I find your web sight for information and pictures 
of past
restorations.

Thanks,  Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Sparkplug caps -


> Healey List:
>
> I am currently restoring a 1967 BJ8 for a client and the sparkplug caps 
> are
> not Champion, instead they are marked KLG Made in England. Since most
> everything on the car was original, I wonder if some of the BJ8 came with
> sparkplug caps other than Champion.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
>
>
> Jean Caron
>
> Vintage Roadster Restoration

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 05:14:51 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:14:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help Installing a New Top
References: <023201c9ba27$24632ce0$6d2986a0$@net>
Message-ID: <003501c9ba96$bc36d2a0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

This has been an area that has always been at question for those of us that 
don't have and old
top to use as a pattern.   Moss walked thru a BJ8  top install on their 
video years ago but
I have yet seen a nice sequence of pictures for the 100-6s and the Bt7. 
Are there any good
sequential pictures out there and I wonder if they could be sent to John 
Sims web sight for future
viewing.

Thanks,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie O'Connors" <charlieoc at comcast.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help Installing a New Top


> I'm installing a new top (Robbins) on my '60 BT7.  I don't have an old top
> to go by, so I'm hoping someone can send me photos showing how the front
> looks.  It appears that I have too much material, but I don't want to cut
> anything unless I'm sure.  Photos would be a great help if anyone has some
> that show the finished top.  Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>
>
> Charlie
>
> Tallahassee, Florida
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 05:23:46 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:23:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Loctite Freeze & Release
References: <20090410174627.14145.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <003e01c9ba97$fb2edbf0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Thanks Steve.   I was having such a nice Saturday morning till those found 
memories flashed back.
Two knuckle buster, sweat stimulating, curse word generating  areas,  that I 
will never forget.

If I only knew then what I know now.    ; )

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Loctite Freeze & Release


> It would be interesting if someone on the list planning on replacing their 
> lower A-arm bushings could use this product and report back how it works. 
> Ditto the rear-spring front bolt.
>
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 06:51:04 2009
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 08:51:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>

It's good to let one's spouse know these things.   It's our only investment
that hasn't gone south.

- Tom


On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:

> Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B
>  Must
> be nice...
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 11 07:01:49 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:01:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>

NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these things,
she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep them in
the dark.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of T W
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:51 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8

It's good to let one's spouse know these things.   It's our only investment
that hasn't gone south.

- Tom


On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:

> Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B
>  Must
> be nice...
> _______________________________________________

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Apr 11 07:24:01 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:24:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
Message-ID: <49E099F1.9040504@chello.nl>

You just got the wrong wife. Mine presented me a good Jensen Healey for 
my birthday to stop me talking about the one that is still kept in the 
garage to be restored, which may never happen.
Kees Oudesluijs

John Sims schreef:
> NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these things,
> she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep them in
> the dark.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of T W
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:51 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
>
> It's good to let one's spouse know these things.   It's our only investment
> that hasn't gone south.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B
>>  Must
>> be nice...
>> _______________________________________________
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.52/2053 - Release Date: 04/10/09 18:27:00

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Apr 11 07:32:53 2009
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:32:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
References: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
Message-ID: <49E09C05.6090201@earthlink.net>

Lloyd Bender did a review of penetrating oils in the April/May 2007 edition 
of Machinist's Workshop (back issue available at 
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/1549).  It doesn't 
include the Loctite and CRC "freeze" products (I don't think that they were 
out yet).  He didn't have a way to measure the torque to unscrew a rusted 
bolt, so he measured the force to remove a pin from a hole. The parts were 
assembled and then rusted by 12 cycles of 10 minutes in a 3% salt bath and 
50 minutes in 105 degF air.  The joints were then soaked in one ounce of 
penetrating oil for 12 hours.

The results were (lower the number of pounds is better):

                         Average        Price per
Penetrating oil         Load           fluid ounce
ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix   53 pounds       $0.10
Kano Kroil             106 pounds       $0.75
Liquid Wrench          127 pounds       $0.21
PB Blaster             214 pounds       $0.35
WD-40                  238 pounds       $0.25
None                   516 pounds       -----

The prices were what he paid for the minimum quantity possible.

Anyone tried the ATF-Acetone mix?

Bob

Tracy Drummond wrote:
> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results from
> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
> 
>  
> 
> http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 11 07:42:28 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:42:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <49E099F1.9040504@chello.nl>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net> <49E099F1.9040504@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <03f701c9baab$5b4062d0$11c12870$@net>

I'm too old to try for a third.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl] 
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 9:24 AM
To: John Sims
Cc: 'T W'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8

You just got the wrong wife. Mine presented me a good Jensen Healey for 
my birthday to stop me talking about the one that is still kept in the 
garage to be restored, which may never happen.
Kees Oudesluijs

John Sims schreef:
> NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these
things,
> she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep them
in
> the dark.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of T W
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:51 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
>
> It's good to let one's spouse know these things.   It's our only
investment
> that hasn't gone south.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B
>>  Must
>> be nice...
>> _______________________________________________
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.52/2053 - Release Date: 04/10/09
18:27:00

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 10:34:55 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:34:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904110934k3c340aa9r9f29c4759088940f@mail.gmail.com>

John - You should remind your wife that it's far better to have your
hobby in the garage rather than at some other woman's bedroom.

On 4/11/09, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:
> NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these things,
> she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep them in
> the dark.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of T W
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:51 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
>
> It's good to let one's spouse know these things.   It's our only investment
> that hasn't gone south.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM, <m.brouillette at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Just saw a Tanner 65 BJ8 go at teh BJ auction in Florida go for 100K.B
>>  Must
>> be nice...
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 11 10:51:01 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 12:51:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904110934k3c340aa9r9f29c4759088940f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904102030k226c857fqca94652845b05288@mail.gmail.com>
	<984768356.801411239420923367.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<d9b7a14d0904110551w4b353f70g55a69aee536dc9ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
	<ff59076c0904110934k3c340aa9r9f29c4759088940f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03f801c9bac5$b292ab50$17b801f0$@net>

Well when she really insists, I just tell her that I am waiting for parts
and can not think of selling until they come in and I install them. She
hasn't figured out that most come within a week. So far I have been waiting
for parts for 15 years.

John 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 12:35 PM
To: John Sims; T W; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8

John - You should remind your wife that it's far better to have your
hobby in the garage rather than at some other woman's bedroom.

On 4/11/09, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:
> NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these
things,
> she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep them
in
> the dark.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sat Apr 11 10:53:28 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 09:53:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03f701c9baab$5b4062d0$11c12870$@net>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAAELMDNAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Wife or car? ;~)

-----Original Message-----
I'm too old to try for a third.

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Sat Apr 11 11:36:45 2009
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:36:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help Installing a New Top
Message-ID: <002601c9bacc$160104b0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

Hi Charlie,

Here are three shots of the front corner finish of a factory NOS grey top
never installed on a car.  The top fitted on a header bar with alloy strip,
seal, fasteners and clamps was available from BMC as an over-the counter new
part.

Top material is pulled forward over the header bar which is clamped to the
windshield.  The sides should be a good fit around the sidescreens and the
flaps should butt up against the windshield posts.  The top fabric gets nailed
or stapled to the header bow from the center out, cleaning out the stretch
marks as you go.  There should be a strip of several inches of extra material
at the front.  This extra material was cut off at the junction of the wood
header and the alloy clamping strip.

The corner is carefully made by pulling the side edges around to the front.
This folded sticking up bit lets you see how much of a pie slice of extra
material needs to be cut out of the corner.  The slit needs to be very
carefully made and kept low so that it can be covered up by the hidem strip.
The edge binding is brought round to the front and back up in a curve and is
cut off so that it finishes under the hidem strip as well.  The size of the
curved "ear" portion is 2" in from the edge of the alloy strip.  The hidem
strip overlaps onto the alloy strip just a bit to cover the gap.  It turns the
corner just slightly and is finished with a plated edge cap.  A home steamer
will take out stretch marks.

Robbins (and Moss) used to include detailed fitting instructions with their
tops, but must have had many complaints from amateur screwups, so they now
state that their tops are to be installed by a professional shop.

For people interested in such things, Robbins has shown an interest in
offering tops and tonneaus to the original factory patterns.  Their rear
windows were always too large.   I've sent them my NOS BN 6 / 7 top and they
now offer a top with the correct size and shape rear window in either stitched
or heat-welded form, in their normal Colonial Grain or original Everflex vinyl
or Stayfast cloth.  I've offered them the NOS BT 7 top as well, but they don't
seem to be in a big hurry.

Best regards
Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC00192.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC00193.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC00194.JPG]

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Apr 11 12:02:25 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:02:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <223C122F381C4EF2B4ADD573C9E0C83F@GregPC>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEEFDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<I am watching too, recession?, what recession?, still think six figures
for
a production big healey is big money, even though we had some BJ8s hit a >>

Little while ago a BN-? went for 100 even (re-coloured & Dayton 72 chromes)
<G>!!?!?!?

1st time EVER wife has paid any attention to B-J<VBG>, and she damned near
had a heart attack!!! LOL

I GOTTA be 'careful' to NOT tell her what BJ-7s have done in the past<G>!!

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Apr 11 12:09:41 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:09:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03f601c9baa5$adc57960$09506c20$@net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEEFDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<NO it is NOT. Every time that my wife founds out about one of these
things, she is on my back to sell my Healey an take the cash. Better to keep
them in the dark.>>

ABSOLUTLEY CORRECT, John !!!!!

And BTW, "I" also am STILL "waiting for parts"!!  LOL

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Apr 11 12:23:22 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:23:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEEFDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJMEEFDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <DEC3CB7485E847968D97C3D4E5523AA9@GregPC>

I just tell her even if I don't ever sell my cars they are yours after I am 
gone, she seems to be more satisfied with that answer than I am comfortable 
with, makes me a little nervous.....

Greg Lemon

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Apr 11 12:32:57 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:32:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <DEC3CB7485E847968D97C3D4E5523AA9@GregPC>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEEHDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

For you guys that aren't watching you should (if you can).

BN-7 coming up; Black over 'gold'(???) and announcer says it is WAY better
then the Blue/white one was ($100k)!?!?!?

Ought to go thru the roof<G>!!!

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Sat Apr 11 12:38:32 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:38:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Movies
Message-ID: <be7.4c0308d6.37123da8@aol.com>

Just saw some publicity photos for a new movie, "The Rum Diary" starring  
Johnny Depp and Aaron Eckhart. They are both in a Healey, either a 100-6 or  
early 3000 "driving" around Puerto Rico. It's a two seater, red, tan  
interior and in true Hollywood fashion, the spears are installed facing the  wrong 
direction. 
    Not sure how often the car will appear in the  movie, but with Depp in 
the car, I guess a ton of folks will see how cool  the Austin Healey is.
    Go to google images and search for "The Rum Diary"  to see the images.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598 
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Sat Apr 11 12:42:05 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:42:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <d5e.48ccb2cf.37123e7d@aol.com>

Here's the best shot, saving you the search:
 
_http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg_ 
(http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg) 
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Apr 11 12:49:32 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:49:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <20090411.144933.6856.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

Did you notice how the wing mirror is mounted?
 
> Here's the best shot, saving you the search:
>  
> _http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg_ 
> (http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg) 
> **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner 
> for $10 
> or less. 
> (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Apr 11 12:50:18 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:50:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <20090411.145019.6856.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

And the "red Line" tyres...........
 
> Here's the best shot, saving you the search:
>  
> _http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg_ 
> (http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg) 
> **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner 
> for $10 
> or less. 
> (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Apr 11 12:52:05 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <20090411.145205.6856.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

Also, the door is not closed all the way or it sure doesn't line up
properly. In keeping with Hollywood?
 
> Here's the best shot, saving you the search:
>  
> _http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg_ 
> (http://www.dishiness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/rum0009.jpg) 
> **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner 
> for $10 
> or less. 
> (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Find great deals on the latest styles of phones. Click now!
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From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Apr 11 13:14:18 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:14:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <DEC3CB7485E847968D97C3D4E5523AA9@GregPC>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEEJDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<makes me a little nervous.....>>

Were I you Greg, I would be "worried" as He|| !!!! 

er, on top of your cars, how much Life Ins. is there
on you????

LMAO

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Sat Apr 11 13:18:19 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:18:19 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <c58.4048cde6.371246fb@aol.com>

Yup ... Yup ... and Yup... But he's only on a trailer, so why close the  
door?
 
 
In a message dated 4/11/2009 11:54:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dwflagg at juno.com writes:

Also,  the door is not closed all the way or it sure doesn't line up
properly. In  keeping with  Hollywood?




**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for $10 
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Apr 11 13:20:50 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:20:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Dash
Message-ID: <20090411.152219.6856.5.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a nice pair of the end bracket set for the BJ8 dash, Moss #633-658
N/A. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Learn the Six Sigma approach and become certified. Click now. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTRJRrnRMWjTemQboc7gcEl9UU9mFiK7gViXlS9aBP3j64ESbm7mDG/

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Apr 11 13:22:18 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:22:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in movies part 2
Message-ID: <20090411.152219.6856.6.dwflagg@juno.com>

Is that a "movie" trailer????

Yup ... Yup ... and Yup... But he's only on a trailer, so why close the
door?
 
In a message dated 4/11/2009 11:54:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dwflagg at juno.com writes:
Also, the door is not closed all the way or it sure doesn't line up
properly. In keeping with Hollywood?






Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less.
____________________________________________________________
Learn the Six Sigma approach and become certified. Click now. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTRJRqxQZrElRXbJCRzMKtSt83mi4rHWSeszPO0KYa7ZUAEzBpsP9u/

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat Apr 11 13:23:56 2009
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 12:23:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEEJDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEEJDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <7B5FB58D69DF42CA804B9006103934E8@soloPC>

Hi Healey folks,

I put everything in my wifes name............ that way she'll never leave 
me,  cause she'll have to give me half !!!!!

Cheers
Kenny
Vancouver BC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8


> <<makes me a little nervous.....>>
>
> Were I you Greg, I would be "worried" as He|| !!!!
>
> er, on top of your cars, how much Life Ins. is there
> on you????
>
> LMAO
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as geatros at shaw.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Apr 11 13:30:37 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:30:37 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Booster
Message-ID: <d02.538a0b72.371249dd@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/11/09 4:09:08 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Ok,
> I just bought the unit with the 3.0.1 ratio. came to $221.00 US with
> shipping. Went to the sugeon today. Knee replacement is doing fine, knee 
> is
> just too damaged to use the stock clutch. I'm 53 and plan to drive this
> thing for many more years to come.
> Thanks Kees,
> Ira
> 

Definitely let us know how that works out; I'm anticipating the need for 
left knee surgery within the next 2-3 years and don't want to contemplate 
giving up racing my MGA. I'm pretty sure the stewards would approve a clutch 
booster, where they are not likely to approve some sort of autobox conversion.

best
Gary


**************
Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for 
$10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sat Apr 11 13:35:22 2009
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 12:35:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Movies
In-Reply-To: <be7.4c0308d6.37123da8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAEELODNAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hollywood more than likely rented it as is from the owner. The movie would
only buy it if they were going to wreck it or use it for some kind of
special stunt. Then they'd buy a bunch of them and make them all look the
same.

Cheers,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
and in true Hollywood fashion, the spears are installed facing the  wrong
direction.

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Apr 11 13:35:31 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:35:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
Message-ID: <d0c.4df7cf0d.37124b03@aol.com>

Jay Leno is often quoted as saying his wife is quite happy with his hobby, 
since he's one of the few people in Hollywood with one wife and 100 cars, 
when most people seem to have one car and 100 affairs. But I am reminded of 
the old want ad that supposedly appeared somewhere: "Wanted: nice woman for 
wife -- must own her own sports car. Send picture of sports car." (There are 
other versions, depending on where you live, that use Bass Boat or Pick-up 
truck instead of sports car).

Best
Gary


**************
Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner for 
$10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)

From charlieoc at comcast.net  Sat Apr 11 13:38:46 2009
From: charlieoc at comcast.net (Charlie O'Connors)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:38:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need Help Installing a New Top
In-Reply-To: <002601c9bacc$160104b0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
References: <002601c9bacc$160104b0$6501a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>
Message-ID: <02a401c9badd$21dbee10$6593ca30$@net>

Thanks Peter.  This really helps a lot.  Sam Marble also provided some great
photos.  

 

Charlie

Tallahassee, Florida

 

 

From: Peter Svilans [mailto:peter.svilans at rogers.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 1:37 PM
To: charlieoc at comcast.net; lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Need Help Installing a New Top

 

Hi Charlie,

 

Here are three shots of the front corner finish of a factory NOS grey top
never installed on a car.  The top fitted on a header bar with alloy strip,
seal, fasteners and clamps was available from BMC as an over-the counter new
part.

 

Top material is pulled forward over the header bar which is clamped to the
windshield.  The sides should be a good fit around the sidescreens and the
flaps should butt up against the windshield posts.  The top fabric gets
nailed or stapled to the header bow from the center out, cleaning out the
stretch marks as you go.  There should be a strip of several inches of extra
material at the front.  This extra material was cut off at the junction of
the wood header and the alloy clamping strip.

 

The corner is carefully made by pulling the side edges around to the front.
This folded sticking up bit lets you see how much of a pie slice of extra
material needs to be cut out of the corner.  The slit needs to be very
carefully made and kept low so that it can be covered up by the hidem strip.
The edge binding is brought round to the front and back up in a curve and is
cut off so that it finishes under the hidem strip as well.  The size of the
curved "ear" portion is 2" in from the edge of the alloy strip.  The hidem
strip overlaps onto the alloy strip just a bit to cover the gap.  It turns
the corner just slightly and is finished with a plated edge cap.  A home
steamer will take out stretch marks.

 

Robbins (and Moss) used to include detailed fitting instructions with their
tops, but must have had many complaints from amateur screwups, so they now
state that their tops are to be installed by a professional shop.

 

For people interested in such things, Robbins has shown an interest in
offering tops and tonneaus to the original factory patterns.  Their rear
windows were always too large.   I've sent them my NOS BN 6 / 7 top and they
now offer a top with the correct size and shape rear window in either
stitched or heat-welded form, in their normal Colonial Grain or original
Everflex vinyl  or Stayfast cloth.  I've offered them the NOS BT 7 top as
well, but they don't seem to be in a big hurry.

 

Best regards

Peter

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 11 13:48:28 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 19:48:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJCEEHDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <1455372934.469061239479308540.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

For us single guys it's easy--if they don't like Healeys, driving fast and flying it's sayonara. 



bs 

From pieters at pt.lu  Sat Apr 11 14:05:15 2009
From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:05:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Richard mayor
Message-ID: <DC99254A-1D6F-427E-A93A-4140329D363C@pt.lu>

Richard,
  I am just back on the list after moving to Luxembourg. Please  
contact me with your question,
Pieter

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 11 15:20:31 2009
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:20:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Bearings
Message-ID: <779872.39496.qm@web31507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

A couple of questions for the list:
1) Are the inner bearings and seal the same for the BN2 and late BJ8? 
2) Is there a need to shim the front hubs on a BN2 as you do on a late BJ8?
TIA

Joe
BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
BN2 100M
BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and daughter

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 18:45:33 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:45:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
References: <E7E912669DFA48C6B72E0B9D05726D81@TRACY>
	<49E09C05.6090201@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001201c9bb07$fd6e76d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

No one that lived to tell about it.

For the life of me I will never understand why
any one would even consider using a product that is an absolute known 
carcinogen
just to remove or clean a rusted part.    There are enough products to use 
now that
won't kill you , but may take a bit longer to derust,  but still do the job. 
Personally I'll
take the longer route.

I can remember a couple of life shortening stories from some of our old list 
buddies that
were pretty insistent that their serious health problems were brought on by 
not using
precautionary measures when using hazardous products during hobby time.

Just the slightest scent of acetone makes me want to head for the hills.

Use what you want gentlemen, but think first.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts


> Lloyd Bender did a review of penetrating oils in the April/May 2007 
> edition of Machinist's Workshop (back issue available at 
> https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/1549).  It doesn't 
> include the Loctite and CRC "freeze" products (I don't think that they 
> were out yet).  He didn't have a way to measure the torque to unscrew a 
> rusted bolt, so he measured the force to remove a pin from a hole. The 
> parts were assembled and then rusted by 12 cycles of 10 minutes in a 3% 
> salt bath and 50 minutes in 105 degF air.  The joints were then soaked in 
> one ounce of penetrating oil for 12 hours.
>
> The results were (lower the number of pounds is better):
>
>                         Average        Price per
> Penetrating oil         Load           fluid ounce
> ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix   53 pounds       $0.10
> Kano Kroil             106 pounds       $0.75
> Liquid Wrench          127 pounds       $0.21
> PB Blaster             214 pounds       $0.35
> WD-40                  238 pounds       $0.25
> None                   516 pounds       -----
>
> The prices were what he paid for the minimum quantity possible.
>
> Anyone tried the ATF-Acetone mix?
>
> Bob
>
> Tracy Drummond wrote:
>> No financial interest.  This product might save some knuckles and
>> frustration though.  I would be interested to hear first hand results 
>> from
>> anyone who has tried this stuff though.
>>
>>  http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com Tracy Drummond                  Gang 
>> Warily !
>>
>> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 11 18:56:24 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 17:56:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] The 100K BJ8 - great color combo ....
Message-ID: <331749.86703.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers,

Just saw a short clip of the 100K BJ8 at BJ/FL - Aston Sage green with Ivory
interior - looked very nice.

But it is 100K for a non original color and probably other 'improvements' that
would mark it down at concours.  Should raise my agreed value insurance
number......

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 11 18:58:59 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 17:58:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
Message-ID: <351627.38270.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Leno seems to either have either the right formula or the right wife - maybe
even both.....

Interesting thread ......

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sat, 4/11/09, Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wives and cars
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 12:35 PM
> Jay Leno is often quoted as saying
> his wife is quite happy with his hobby,
> since he's one of the few people in Hollywood with one wife
> and 100 cars,
> when most people seem to have one car and 100 affairs. But
> I am reminded of
> the old want ad that supposedly appeared somewhere:
> "Wanted: nice woman for
> wife -- must own her own sports car. Send picture of sports
> car." (There are
> other versions, depending on where you live, that use Bass
> Boat or Pick-up
> truck instead of sports car).
>
> Best
> Gary
>
>
> **************
> Feeling the pinch at the grocery store?  Make dinner
> for
> $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 20:10:39 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 19:10:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shroud latch bracket
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090411190704.01fcbe78@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

I have a 1962 BT7.

My rear shroud is notched where the boot handle latch catches the 
strike on the hoop support bracket. If that makes sense to anyone.

Should the shroud be notched for the handle latch hook to clear the shroud?

Thank you,
John

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 20:16:23 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 19:16:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud restorers
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090411191500.020ac778@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Does anyone know someone that can repair aluminum shrouds in the 
Greater San Francisco Bay Area? I am located in San Jose.

Thank you,
John

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 11 20:19:54 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:19:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
Message-ID: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
the correct
wording for these studs is or ares.

So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
3000.

I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know real
difficulty, but
reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so far.
Hammering
on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased these.
Why
the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is another
question for later.

When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all I
moved over
to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
really thought I was
gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my vise
decided to give it up.
One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
believe it.   That was
a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was.   So
, no more
vise till the stores open on Monday.

The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch comes
out tomorrow to
warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
idea.
I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this same
operation on.

At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
question.

The heat is the answer here,  right?

Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this area
instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't get
the serrated studs in tomorrow?

Mark

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 11 20:24:58 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:24:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
In-Reply-To: <351627.38270.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <351627.38270.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <042b01c9bb15$e08a30f0$a19e92d0$@net>

Or the right amount of money?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Blair
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:59 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Editorgary at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wives and cars

Leno seems to either have either the right formula or the right wife - maybe
even both.....

Interesting thread ......

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Apr 11 20:37:39 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:37:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <95571D599E754AE985F54BD88F8B7F8E@michael>

Hi Mark,
That does not sound correct. I think you need to check the hole sizes in the
hub. As I recall the outside of the serrations on the stud should be about
0.010" greater than the hole diameter.

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: April 11, 2009 10:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question

I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
the correct
wording for these studs is or ares.

So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
3000.

I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know real
difficulty, but
reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so
far.
Hammering
on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased
these.
Why
the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is another
question for later.

When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all I
moved over
to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
really thought I was
gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my
vise
decided to give it up.
One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
believe it.   That was
a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was.
So
, no more
vise till the stores open on Monday.

The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch comes
out tomorrow to
warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
idea.
I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this
same
operation on.

At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
question.

The heat is the answer here,  right?

Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this
area
instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't get
the serrated studs in tomorrow?

Mark

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 11 20:40:37 2009
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins )
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 02:40:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
Message-ID: <BLU117-DS3525F1C55167EF498A75CBF7E0@phx.gbl>

I attended the BJ auctions. In my view, except for the Healeys and several
special cars, the buying prices for most cars was 25 percent or more less than
expected. All the Healeys were spectacular, not just Tanners. The delta in BN7
selling prices was color in my view.
Richard of KY
BN7 440

------Original Message------
From: Ed's Shop
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100K tanner 65 BJ8
Sent: Apr 11, 2009 13:02

<<I am watching too, recession?, what recession?, still think six figures
 for
 a production big healey is big money, even though we had some BJ8s hit a >>

 Little while ago a BN-? went for 100 even (re-coloured & Dayton 72 chromes)
 <G>!!?!?!?

 1st time EVER wife has paid any attention to B-J<VBG>, and she damned near
 had a heart attack!!! LOL

 I GOTTA be 'careful' to NOT tell her what BJ-7s have done in the past<G>!!
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 11 20:55:35 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 02:55:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
In-Reply-To: <256240243.556941239504773765.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1465062424.557421239504935191.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I can't add my own story--I was only married briefly--but my father has collected: 

- Cars (currently): 1955 Thunderbird, 1965 Mustang and our 100M 
- Trucks (currently): 1946 Chevy 2-ton flatbed, 1996 Ranger 
- Fire engine(currently): 1919 Seagrave Pumper (and a couple donor engines) 
- Airplane: 1946 Piper L4 (military version of Piper Cub--sold to gentleman who restored to WWII-era condition) 
- Antique windmills 
- Antique gas pumps 
- Antique player pianos (currently 3) 
- Cars(previous): 1934 Ford coupe, 1940 Ford pickup, 1940 Ford sedan, 196X Thunderbird, 1929 and 1931 Model As 

Mom never complains, she figures he's worked hard and deserves his projects. Plus, Dad's had a heart attack, a quintuple bypass and two rounds of cancer--the second with radiation treatment so brutal some would have thrown in the towel--and it's his projects that keep him going. The only time she got irritated was when he took too long to restore the '55 T-Bird--that's "her" car. 

Maybe that's why they've been married almost 57 years. 


bs 




Or the right amount of money? 

John Sims, BN6 
Aberdeen, NJ 

www.healey6.com 


Leno seems to either have either the right formula or the right wife - maybe 
even both..... 

Interesting thread ...... 

Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 11 21:32:14 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 03:32:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
In-Reply-To: <001201c9bb07$fd6e76d0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <1535535620.564741239507134929.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well, I did a bit of research: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone 
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts21.html 

The second source states: 
"The Department of Health and Human Services, the International Agency for Research on Cancer, and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) have not classified acetone for carcinogenicity. 

Acetone does not cause skin cancer in animals when applied to the skin. We don't know if breathing or swallowing acetone for long periods will cause cancer. Studies of workers exposed to it found no significant risk of death from cancer." 





I think the reference to acetone being "an absolute known carcinogen" may be a bit speculative--doesn't mean you shouldn't be careful with the stuff--especially since government agencies are inclined to declare a substance carcinogenic if there's even the slightest epidemiological evidence of association. 

I think the "life shortening stories" are just that: stories. A lot of people tend to associate cause and effect without thoughtful consideration; e.g. "I used acetone, I got cancer, therefore the acetone caused the cancer." Not exactly good science. 


bs 





No one that lived to tell about it. 

For the life of me I will never understand why 
any one would even consider using a product that is an absolute known 
carcinogen 
just to remove or clean a rusted part. There are enough products to use 
now that 
won't kill you , but may take a bit longer to derust, but still do the job. 
Personally I'll 
take the longer route. 

I can remember a couple of life shortening stories from some of our old list 
buddies that 
were pretty insistent that their serious health problems were brought on by 
not using 
precautionary measures when using hazardous products during hobby time. 

Just the slightest scent of acetone makes me want to head for the hills. 

Use what you want gentlemen, but think first. 

Mark 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 23:32:32 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 07:32:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud restorers
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090411191500.020ac778@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20090411191500.020ac778@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904112232o65a4c6e6j2efb0c28a6bf903b@mail.gmail.com>

Well, It's just a hair further, but I'd send it to the Nocks.  The
body guy they use is in Stockton does lots of healeys for them all the
time.

On 4/12/09, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know someone that can repair aluminum shrouds in the
> Greater San Francisco Bay Area? I am located in San Jose.
>
> Thank you,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 12 04:15:16 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:15:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <95571D599E754AE985F54BD88F8B7F8E@michael>
References: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<95571D599E754AE985F54BD88F8B7F8E@michael>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W399CA86A1FF35C63F1BE97D57E0@phx.gbl>

Mark

I agree with Michael, I pressed in new studs in both rear hubs on my 66 bj8
(serrated / splined heads), and it wasnt that hard, seemed a reasonably tight
fit but went in easily with a vice:



http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=5132641



probably wrong ones, could also freeze them before pressing in.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sun Apr 12 06:08:25 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 08:08:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
References: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <E47C872D99F5447C9590BD37ACBDFA49@your4dacd0ea75>

Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF  :^)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question


>I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
> the correct
> wording for these studs is or ares.
>
> So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
> 3000.
>
> I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know 
> real
> difficulty, but
> reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so 
> far.
> Hammering
> on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased 
> these.
> Why
> the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is 
> another
> question for later.
>
> When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all 
> I
> moved over
> to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
> really thought I was
> gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my 
> vise
> decided to give it up.
> One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
> believe it.   That was
> a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was. 
> So
> , no more
> vise till the stores open on Monday.
>
> The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch 
> comes
> out tomorrow to
> warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
> idea.
> I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this 
> same
> operation on.
>
> At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
> question.
>
> The heat is the answer here,  right?
>
> Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this 
> area
> instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
> Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't 
> get
> the serrated studs in tomorrow?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 12 06:26:44 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 08:26:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts
References: <1535535620.564741239507134929.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c9bb69$f1cddb10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

I stand corrected on falsely accusing acetone for being a carcinogen.   It was
tetrachlorathan that we used to use back in the 80s for degreasing and
cleaning.   That has harsher reviews than acetone.

But I'm still heading for the hills.   They all stink and make me nauseous.

Mark
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Spidell
  To: Mark LaPierre
  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net ; Bob Haskell ; Tracy Drummond
  Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 11:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Breaking rusted bolts


  Well, I did a bit of research:

  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone
  http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts21.html

  The second source states:
  "The Department of Health and Human Services, the International Agency for
Research on Cancer, and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) have not
classified acetone for carcinogenicity.
  Acetone does not cause skin cancer in animals when applied to the skin. We
don't know if breathing or swallowing acetone for long periods will cause
cancer. Studies of workers exposed to it found no significant risk of death
from cancer."







  I think the reference to acetone being "an absolute known carcinogen" may be
a bit speculative--doesn't mean you shouldn't be careful with the
stuff--especially since government agencies are inclined to declare a
substance carcinogenic if there's even the slightest epidemiological evidence
of association.

  I think the "life shortening stories" are just that: stories.   A lot of
people tend to associate cause and effect without thoughtful consideration;
e.g. "I used acetone, I got cancer, therefore the acetone caused the cancer."
Not exactly good science.


  bs

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 12 06:28:23 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 08:28:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
References: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<E47C872D99F5447C9590BD37ACBDFA49@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <001201c9bb6a$2ca2bd00$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Head for the hills.    Like your humor Dallas.   ; )




> Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF  :^)
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:19 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
>
>
>>I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know 
>>what
>> the correct
>> wording for these studs is or ares.
>>
>> So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
>> 3000.
>>
>> I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know 
>> real
>> difficulty, but
>> reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so 
>> far.
>> Hammering
>> on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased 
>> these.
>> Why
>> the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is 
>> another
>> question for later.
>>
>> When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all 
>> I
>> moved over
>> to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
>> really thought I was
>> gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my 
>> vise
>> decided to give it up.
>> One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
>> believe it.   That was
>> a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was. 
>> So
>> , no more
>> vise till the stores open on Monday.
>>
>> The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch 
>> comes
>> out tomorrow to
>> warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
>> idea.
>> I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this 
>> same
>> operation on.
>>
>> At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
>> question.
>>
>> The heat is the answer here,  right?
>>
>> Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this 
>> area
>> instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
>> Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't 
>> get
>> the serrated studs in tomorrow?
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Apr 12 07:33:48 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 05:33:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Brake_Disc_Stud_Question?=
Message-ID: <20090412133348.9076.qmail@hoster902.com>

I got mine in by heating the hub in boiling water while freezing the studs in the freezer - they tapped in fairly easily.

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sun Apr 12 08:02:43 2009
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 09:02:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hollywood and Accuracy
Message-ID: <48720d20904120702p1e980c41r435556e34ae1d474@mail.gmail.com>

I don't remember the title, but an independent movie was shown at MG2008. It
was a Coming of Age movie which involved the main character coming of age
through the restoration of an MG. They used three very dissimilar cars which
was easily picked up by the MG viewers. The unrestored car was a chrome
bumper MG, pre 1974 1/2. The car when they were working on it, was a rubber
bumper, post 1974 1/2. The fully restored car was a different year chrome
bumper. What drew laughs was the ease of removing the windscreen during
restoration, and the quck sloppy way they painted the car in the shade
outside with no preparation.

The director/producer said he forgot to take the glass out of the windscreen
and had to pay an exorbatant fee to a computer shop to remove it
electronically.

Great fun.

Jack

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Apr 12 11:43:31 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 09:43:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Hollywood_and_accuracy?=
Message-ID: <20090412174331.21519.qmail@hoster902.com>

When I was in college and we'd watch a lot of late-night TV, my roommate had a comment about the old "Highway Patrol" program with Broderick Crawford: "...That's where a '56 Ford goes over the cliff and turns into a '38 Packard just before it explodes."

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Apr 12 12:10:27 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 11:10:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hollywood and accuracy
In-Reply-To: <20090412174331.21519.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20090412174331.21519.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10904121110w7d83c1b4m30215f36c35231b2@mail.gmail.com>

Gravity does strange things in California...

On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 10:43 AM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> When I was in college and we'd watch a lot of late-night TV, my roommate
> had a comment about the old "Highway Patrol" program with Broderick
> Crawford: "...That's where a '56 Ford goes over the cliff and turns into a
> '38 Packard just before it explodes."
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Apr 12 17:57:59 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 23:57:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <008401c9bb15$2b95ba70$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W28F0EAF1AA6DDD01D098C2A57E0@phx.gbl>

As I recall when I did this on my 100 the holes in the new hubs were a lot
smaller than the old. Had to drill them out.
Bill Lawrence

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:19:54 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Disc Stud Question
>
> I have searched the list history to no avail cause I don't really know what
> the correct
> wording for these studs is or ares.
>
> So "brake disc to hub studs" is the best I can do for now.    On a  BT7
> 3000.
>
> I removed the old studs from my old front wire wheel hub/disc with know
real
> difficulty, but
> reinstalling them in the new wire wheel hub has been very interesting so
far.
> Hammering
> on brand new wire wheel hubs is not what I had in mind when I purchased
these.
> Why
> the studs aren't already installed in the hub in the first place is another
> question for later.
>
> When I decided that hammering the studs into place was not working at all I
> moved over
> to the vise to try to persuade them in with a little pressing action.   I
> really thought I was
> gaining some ground since the vise handle kept turning,  then suddenly my
vise
> decided to give it up.
> One of the forged metal halves literally broke in half.   Wow,  couldn't
> believe it.   That was
> a huge amount of force but the stud was not moving like I thought it was.
So
> , no more
> vise till the stores open on Monday.
>
> The studs are now in the freezer chillin, (contracting)  and the torch
comes
> out tomorrow to
> warm the holes up a tad (expansion) unless someone comes up with a better
> idea.
> I never  had this much trouble in the past on TRs that we had to do this
same
> operation on.
>
> At  $8.00 a piece for new studdly duddlies, x 10 =  $80.00.   Out of the
> question.
>
> The heat is the answer here,  right?
>
> Or,  I noticed (per Moss) that the late BJ8s used a regular bolt in this
area
> instead of the serrated studs.    .94 cents a piece.
> Would this be an acceptable mod in your humble opinions if I still can't
get
> the serrated studs in tomorrow?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sun Apr 12 19:11:27 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 18:11:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 inner door picture?
Message-ID: <001601c9bbd4$c5944820$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Does anyone have a picture of your inner door prior to putting the panel on.
Late BJ8?
If you look at the MOSS site the Door Fittings and Seals page.

Part number 93 is my question.  I think I see where this is installed but I
don't see how it is a glass stop.  It appears to be too high in the door and
the window needs to drop another 3 inches.

By the way, when you pull on the door handle, is there usually a click as the
door latch opens?   I have one door that clicks and one doesn't .

I appreciate the help.

Jerry
BJ8  1967

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 12 19:24:00 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 18:24:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shop safety (was Breaking rusted bolts)
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W420740E93F6BEA5B33FD2EA57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <1535535620.564741239507134929.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<000c01c9bb69$f1cddb10$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<BAY144-W420740E93F6BEA5B33FD2EA57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49E29430.7080805@comcast.net>

I once worked as a lab tech handling dangerous ag chemicals in small and large quantities.  One compound--Phosdrin--had an LD50 of 10; IOW it's 
extremely toxic (a couple drops on your skin and you'd be dead in a half-hour without treatment; i.e. atropine).  Another I worked with 
frequently--Nemagon--barely registered an LD50; however it smelled vicious and I usually was pretty careful with it.  A couple years later we found 
out Nemagon exposure could cause sterility; my 19-year-old son is testament that I didn't get exposed TOO bad ;)

Don't disregard flammability, either.  One of my colleagues looked a bit like a Frankenstein monster; he'd poured a flammable down the drain which 
exploded and burned him severely.


bs



WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> The amounts of chemicals we use in the hobby are not really comparable 
> to those used in industry and as such the exposures are not usually as 
> severe, however to avoid dangerous exposures to chemical products you 
> can get Material Data Safety Sheets from the supplier. These will help 
> you to understand the dangers of the products you are using and the 
> precautions you should be taking to protect yourself.
> 
> Acetone was one of the main solvents used in lacquer paints and as such 
> lots of people were exposed to it for years and I haven't heard of any 
> cancer epidemics related to it. On the other hand there are other 
> dangers which may not be related to its cancer risk. Many solvents are 
> an inhalation danger and my attack specific organs or cause damage to 
> the nervous system.
> 
> These aren't reasons not to use the products, but only to know the 
> dangers and to take responsible steps to avoid them.
> 
> Bill Lawrence

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Sun Apr 12 20:13:37 2009
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 21:13:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 gearbox assembly problems?
Message-ID: <000001c9bbdd$751c3840$5f54a8c0$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

I'm having a difficult time assembling My 63 BJ7 centershift gearbox.  I
can't seem to get the laygear in with the thrust washers.  The thrust
washers are too thick!  I have a rebuilt #3649 laygear, courtesy of AH
Spares.  It has a new first gear nicely welded to it.  It has been
refurbished and appears to be hardened and really nice.  However, it appear
to be too long and there is no room for the thrust washers to fit.  It looks
like the thrust end of the laygear (nearer the first gear) is too long.
Could I grind this down to the appropriate length?  That would be very tough
to do equally around the diameter of the laygear.   Or,  should I look for a
new laygear?  I bought this like six years ago, so I doubt that I could
exchange it.  Also, I am using the original BJ7 gearbox case.  Please
advise!  Thanks!

 

Randy

Healey Archaeologist

63 BJ7

60 BT7

66 Cobra replica

06 Mini Cooper S

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Apr 12 20:24:00 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 22:24:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP458515ABD5713A6E8ACC27C37F0@phx.gbl>

Hi all,

I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure the toggle
clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure (but would welcome
being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips oval head, 1/2" long.
Stainless would be fine as it can be polished up.

I can't find these at any of my normal suppliers (although I can get pan head
8-36, so the this thread type is around).

If anyone has a source for these or has 4 they are willing to part with,
please let me know.

I know I can re-tap the holes to something more common but would rather not do
this to a very original hardtop.

cheers,

Mirek

From satkinson7314 at charter.net  Sun Apr 12 20:45:54 2009
From: satkinson7314 at charter.net (Simon & Christine Atkinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 22:45:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] engine ground cable
Message-ID: <00A9182C7D024C1FA7EDE6BBD6562926@AtkinsonPC>

Where does the engine ground cable attach to the chassis of a BT7?

thanks

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Apr 12 21:01:10 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 22:01:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 gearbox assembly problems?
In-Reply-To: <000001c9bbdd$751c3840$5f54a8c0$@com>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEHDDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

I'd answer you Randy, but you NEVER answer my mails.

Ed

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Mon Apr 13 01:33:44 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 00:33:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The 100K BJ8 - great color combo ....
In-Reply-To: <331749.86703.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <331749.86703.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50904130033r3dbfcb1dp84ee552a9f050580@mail.gmail.com>

Listers:
people that pay $100,000 for an Austin healey want a gorgeous,
reliable, get in a drive a way car.
they don't care whether the fan shroud was painted by a brush or sprayed.

ron rader
1965 BJ8
BRG / Tan

On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 5:56 PM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> But it is 100K for a non original color and probably other 'improvements' that
> would mark it down at concours.

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 04:00:32 2009
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 06:00:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
Message-ID: <c74.4c3cee78.37146740@aol.com>

Mirek,
 
Look up a local "fasteners/nut and bolt" store in your area.  If they  make 
them, your store can order them.
 
Bill
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2009 10:30:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca writes:

Hi  all,

I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure  the 
toggle
clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure  (but would 
welcome
being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips  oval head, 1/2" 
long.
Stainless would be fine as it can be polished  up.

I can't find these at any of my normal suppliers (although I can  get pan 
head
8-36, so the this thread type is around).

If anyone has  a source for these or has 4 they are willing to part with,
please let me  know.

I know I can re-tap the holes to something more common but would  rather 
not do
this to a very original  hardtop.

cheers,

Mirek
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  insidedim at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Apr 13 05:46:35 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 07:46:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <c74.4c3cee78.37146740@aol.com>
References: <c74.4c3cee78.37146740@aol.com>
Message-ID: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>

Take a look at:

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
20ebook.pdf

Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of screws.
Yours might be there.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of INSIDEDIM at aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:01 AM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners

Mirek,
 
Look up a local "fasteners/nut and bolt" store in your area.  If they  make 
them, your store can order them.
 
Bill
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2009 10:30:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca writes:

Hi  all,

I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure  the 
toggle
clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure  (but would 
welcome
being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips  oval head, 1/2" 
long.
Stainless would be fine as it can be polished  up.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Apr 13 07:20:18 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 09:20:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] engine ground cable
References: <00A9182C7D024C1FA7EDE6BBD6562926@AtkinsonPC>
Message-ID: <35B9ABC9EB0F4A4097802B1F65A9BEFD@ophrdc.org>

There is a 3/8" NF nut welded inside the inboard side wall of the right 
chassis frame approx. beside the engine to bell housing seam. The next bolt 
below the lower starter motor bolt is where the ground strap fastens to and 
grounds the engine assembly. The other end of the ground strap fastens to 
the chassis by way of a bolt running into this welded nut inside the frame.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon & Christine Atkinson" <satkinson7314 at charter.net>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] engine ground cable


> Where does the engine ground cable attach to the chassis of a BT7?
>
> thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 08:14:46 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 10:14:46 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
Message-ID: <d49.433138a4.3714a2d6@aol.com>

I don't see those screws listed in the copy of the hardtop parts book I  
have, but I would think that they are 10-32 screws. This size is readily  
available at local hardware stores in stainless & chrome  plated, Phillips oval 
head. You might need to run a tap thru the holes to  clean them up. I would 
not try to change the size of the  hole. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2009 9:30:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca writes:

I am  overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure the  
toggle
clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure  (but would 
welcome
being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips  oval head, 1/2" 
long.
Stainless would be fine as it can be polished  up.



**************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
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mpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfooterNO62)

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Mon Apr 13 08:30:21 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:30:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys]  Armrest orientation
In-Reply-To: <2136403275.1312731239633015227.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1380862249.1312811239633021208.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi listers- 


Here's one for ya- what is the orientation of the armrest on a MKII (an early BJ7). The best reference would be distance back from the rear of the ashtray. BTW, has anyone had problems getting the armrest sewn to the carpet? Any trick or step worth mentioning? 


I'm using the AH spares armrest. Does it require any additional padding or stuffing? If it fits like the rest of the upholstery I sourced from them, I'm going to have to do some fanagling to make it look right. Don't get me wrong, the materials are of excellent quality, but the fit and finish left me wanting for more. 


Thanks in advance, Tom 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 08:52:56 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 10:52:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 gearbox assembly problems?
Message-ID: <bf0.4b7db858.3714abc8@aol.com>

Do not try to grind the laygear. You will destroy it.
You need to determine why it won't fit. Is it really too long? 
If you still have your old laygear, compare the length of it to your  
rebuilt gear.
If not, it is relatively easy to measure the distance between the two  
bearing surfaces & compare this to the  total length of the laygear  plus thrust 
washers & thrust plates.
You may need thinner thrust washers, but I would not jump to this  
conclusion.
 
It is possible that your problem is simply assembling the laygear, two  
thrust washers & two thrust plates. They can be a bit difficult to get them  
all aligned.  
 
Finally,you need to have the correct end float when it is all assembled.  
See the service manual for this information. 
 
If the rebuilt gear is indeed too long, then I would personally expect the  
supplier to replace it with a correct one, regardless of how much time has  
elapsed since it has not been used & was "dead on arrival".
Gary Hodson.
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2009 9:29:16 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com writes:

Fellow  Healeyoids,

I'm having a difficult time assembling My 63 BJ7  centershift gearbox.  I
can't seem to get the laygear in with the  thrust washers.  The thrust
washers are too thick!  I have a  rebuilt #3649 laygear, courtesy of AH
Spares.  It has a new first gear  nicely welded to it.  It has been
refurbished and appears to be  hardened and really nice.  However, it appear
to be too long and there  is no room for the thrust washers to fit.  It 
looks
like the thrust  end of the laygear (nearer the first gear) is too long.
Could I grind this  down to the appropriate length?  That would be very 
tough
to do  equally around the diameter of the laygear.   Or,  should I  look 
for a
new laygear?  I bought this like six years ago, so I doubt  that I could
exchange it.  Also, I am using the original BJ7 gearbox  case.  Please
advise!  Thanks!



Randy

Healey  Archaeologist

63 BJ7

60 BT7

66 Cobra replica

06  Mini Cooper S
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
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mpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfooterNO62)

From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com  Mon Apr 13 09:09:08 2009
From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:09:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] side shift transmission
In-Reply-To: <bf0.4b7db858.3714abc8@aol.com>
References: <bf0.4b7db858.3714abc8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18A2B966@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>

When the side shift transmission doesn't stay in first gear and it
knocks in first gear.  What is generally the problem??   It still moves
the car I just have to hold the shifter in first gear..  I assume this
happens because first gear is not synchronized and drivers have a hard
time stopping before shifting in to first gear. 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Apr 13 09:23:44 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:23:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] side shift transmission
References: <bf0.4b7db858.3714abc8@aol.com>
	<F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18A2B966@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <AEAD46996484433B8EEF7C283DFD5EE0@ophrdc.org>

Sounds like weak or non existant detent balls and springs in the 1st gear 
shifter hub, or possibly badly worn shifter forks. I've seen those springs 
broken and the broken portions of the coils wound back into themselves 
negating the thrust required to hold the detent balls into position. Also 
the detent springs and balls in the case that hold the shifter rods in 
position can cause the same symptoms.
The "knocking" in 1st gear will certainly be worn or galled teeth on the 
laygear and 1st gear, along with excess wear of the lay shaft allowing the 
teeth to be slightly out of correct pitch when driven.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:09 AM
Subject: [Healeys] side shift transmission


> When the side shift transmission doesn't stay in first gear and it
> knocks in first gear.  What is generally the problem??   It still moves
> the car I just have to hold the shifter in first gear..  I assume this
> happens because first gear is not synchronized and drivers have a hard
> time stopping before shifting in to first gear.

From medlabinc at msn.com  Mon Apr 13 10:06:43 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 09:06:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Shop safety (was Breaking rusted bolts)
Message-ID: <COL109-DS15C04EEE3B96BA7C6336F1A27F0@phx.gbl>

I grew up and worked in the medical laboratory testing field my whole working
career.

In earlier days reagents used in bench chemistry procedures were made daily as
needed with base ingredients from suppliers like Sigma and others.  I've
always been surprised particularly in earlier days there weren't more medical
complications among me and my co-workers from almost daily exposure to
volatile solvents and other raw ingredients used to make test reagents.
However testing with rats has shown there certainly are - complications.  Or
they needed tougher rats maybe.

In any event over the years testing procedures and reagents changed and became
way more user friendly.  At the same time use of safety precautions like
protective clothing, gloves and the like and ventilation hoods became common
practice.  All this - and MSDS sheets too - say to me it's true.  There's risk
with exposure.

I give thanks and think we were fortunate.  But heed the warnings -
particularly with volatile solvents like those mentioned.  Use in open or
ventilated areas.

Dick Matson / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shop safety (was Breaking rusted bolts)


I once worked as a lab tech handling dangerous ag chemicals in small and large
quantities.  One compound--Phosdrin--had an LD50 of 10; IOW it's
extremely toxic (a couple drops on your skin and you'd be dead in a half-hour
without treatment; i.e. atropine).  Another I worked with
frequently--Nemagon--barely registered an LD50; however it smelled vicious and
I usually was pretty careful with it.  A couple years later we found
out Nemagon exposure could cause sterility; my 19-year-old son is testament
that I didn't get exposed TOO bad ;)

Don't disregard flammability, either.  One of my colleagues looked a bit like
a Frankenstein monster; he'd poured a flammable down the drain which
exploded and burned him severely.


bs



WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> The amounts of chemicals we use in the hobby are not really comparable
> to those used in industry and as such the exposures are not usually as
> severe, however to avoid dangerous exposures to chemical products you
> can get Material Data Safety Sheets from the supplier. These will help
> you to understand the dangers of the products you are using and the
> precautions you should be taking to protect yourself.
>
> Acetone was one of the main solvents used in lacquer paints and as such
> lots of people were exposed to it for years and I haven't heard of any
> cancer epidemics related to it. On the other hand there are other
> dangers which may not be related to its cancer risk. Many solvents are
> an inhalation danger and my attack specific organs or cause damage to
> the nervous system.
>
> These aren't reasons not to use the products, but only to know the
> dangers and to take responsible steps to avoid them.
>
> Bill Lawrence

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Apr 13 13:38:31 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 15:38:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
References: <d49.433138a4.3714a2d6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP5361A7E7DD09F55393AED3C37F0@phx.gbl>

Gary - they are 8-36.  I have 10-24, 10-32, 8-32, as well as smaller sizes and
none of them work.  I have one screw that appears to be an number 8 and has 36
tpi, and it screws in all 4 holes  that hold the toggle clamp.  So unless
there is a very close BA thread (I tried 1 and 2 BA), I am pretty sure is it
8-36 I need.  This thread form is available from a few suppliers, but so far,
I have not found it in stainless (or chrome) oval Phillips head.  However, I
am still following up on a few leads - and then there is also Old Blighty to
turn to - land of the weirdest thread forms know to humans.

Thanks for replying - to John and Bill as well.

Mirek
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Warthodson at aol.com
  To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca ; healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:14 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners


  I don't see those screws listed in the copy of the hardtop parts book I
have, but I would think that they are 10-32 screws. This size is readily
available at local hardware stores in stainless & chrome plated, Phillips oval
head. You might need to run a tap thru the holes to clean them up. I would not
try to change the size of the hole.
  Gary Hodson

  In a message dated 4/12/2009 9:30:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca writes:
    I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure the
toggle
    clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure (but would
welcome
    being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips oval head, 1/2"
long.
    Stainless would be fine as it can be polished up.




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 14:25:47 2009
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 16:25:47 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Moss door and window, part # 93
Message-ID: <d5b.436a0ccd.3714f9cb@aol.com>

this is a stop for the window winder assembly, part # 100
 
pic 1 shows the glass all the way down - driver's door
pic 2 shows the glass up
pic 3 shows the glass half up
 
Bill
BJ8 29298
**************Why pay full price? Check out this month's deals on the new 
AOL Shopping. (http://shopping.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntinstor00000001)

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0870.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0871.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0872.jpg]

From ourxke at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 13 16:48:40 2009
From: ourxke at hotmail.com (Ken Wignall)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:48:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
Message-ID: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>

The terminals are marked either - or +. Alternatively they are marked SW and
CB. I am putting in a new coil. Which one is the positive and which is the
negative?
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi
le1_042009

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 13 17:20:55 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 16:20:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations
Message-ID: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am looking at the DeVilBiss GFG-670 Plus gravity feed gun. It is not an HPLV spary gun.

The literature states that "This high efficiency gravity fed gun has powerful atomization, and
twice the energy available than in HVLP guns! The PLUS was designed for
high quality production painting and it wastes less paint than standard
HVLPs."

Does anyone have experience with this spray gun? Any other recommendations?

The primary use would be to spray primer and finish parts.

My compressor delivers 8.6 CMF at 40 PSI and 6.4 CFM at 90 PSI.

Thank you,
John

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Apr 13 17:54:42 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:54:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
In-Reply-To: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl>

SW means "switch" and was the terminal attached to the ignition switch. On our
(originally) positive ground cars that terminal would be negative. CB means
"contact breaker" (points). The points are at the end of the ignition circuit
and are the grounding point. Again, since the car was originally positive
ground, CB is the positive terminal.
Bill Lawrence

> From: ourxke at hotmail.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:48:40 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
>
> The terminals are marked either - or +. Alternatively they are marked SW
and
> CB. I am putting in a new coil. Which one is the positive and which is the
> negative?
> _________________________________________________________________
> Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
>
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi
> le1_042009
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr 13 18:27:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 17:27:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations
In-Reply-To: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49E3D873.40300@comcast.net>

FWIW, my dad and I have had success with el cheapo Harbor Freight guns.

It's more technique and getting the paint mixture and gun settings right than having an expensive gun.


Bob



john spaur wrote:
> I am looking at the DeVilBiss GFG-670 Plus gravity feed gun. It is not an HPLV spary gun.
> 
> The literature states that "This high efficiency gravity fed gun has powerful atomization, and
> twice the energy available than in HVLP guns! The PLUS was designed for
> high quality production painting and it wastes less paint than standard
> HVLPs."
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this spray gun? Any other recommendations?
> 
> The primary use would be to spray primer and finish parts.
> 
> My compressor delivers 8.6 CMF at 40 PSI and 6.4 CFM at 90 PSI.
> 
> Thank you,
> John

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Apr 13 18:39:11 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 19:39:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations
In-Reply-To: <49E3D873.40300@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJOEJEDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<It's more technique and getting the paint mixture and gun 
settings right than having an expensive gun.>>

Gospel, gents.

I actually know a home-based PRO that paints entire hot-rods 
to '70s sized cars with a door-jamb gun and is perfectly at 
home/peace with it?!?!?!?

And his stuff IS amazing !!!  AND he is only around 40 -50
years old and can WAY afford to have a dozen $400 ones<G>!!

Ed

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Apr 13 19:04:16 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>

Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". I
could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site. 

What should I do?

If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM
To: John Sims
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners

<<Take a look at:

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
20ebook.pdf

Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of screws.>>

WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other folks'
Clients?!?!?!?	ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!

The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:

Bad Request
Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.

From wbagby45 at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 19:18:29 2009
From: wbagby45 at aol.com (WBagby45)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:18:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>,
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>,
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <07bd09e5.2c9e.44a2.bdcc.4d04f9c1dcf1@aol.com>

John,

Your site helps me a lot and is appreciated!  Sometimes incessant complaints should be ignored!

Wright



In a message dated 04/13/09 21:05:23 Eastern Daylight Time, ahbn6 at verizon.net writes:
Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this 
post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". I 
could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web 
site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of 
it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not 
using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site. 

What should I do? 

If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly. 

John Sims, BN6 
Aberdeen, NJ 

www.healey6.com 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM 
To: John Sims 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners 

<<Take a look at: 

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog% 
20ebook.pdf 

Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of screws.>> 

WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in 
YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other folks' 
Clients?!?!?!?  ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA 
then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and 
into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails 
may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL 
THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way 
may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!! 

The above results in a 400 Error, to wit: 

Bad Request 
Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand. 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

You are subscribed as wbagby45 at aol.com 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr 13 19:20:29 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:20:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations
In-Reply-To: <49E3D873.40300@comcast.net>
References: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<49E3D873.40300@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49E3E4DD.5020406@comcast.net>

One other thing: you'll want different guns--or at least different nozzles--for shooting high-build primers as opposed to finish coats.


bs

Bob Spidell wrote:
> FWIW, my dad and I have had success with el cheapo Harbor Freight guns.
> 
> It's more technique and getting the paint mixture and gun settings right 
> than having an expensive gun.
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> john spaur wrote:
>> I am looking at the DeVilBiss GFG-670 Plus gravity feed gun. It is not 
>> an HPLV spary gun.
>>
>> The literature states that "This high efficiency gravity fed gun has 
>> powerful atomization, and
>> twice the energy available than in HVLP guns! The PLUS was designed for
>> high quality production painting and it wastes less paint than standard
>> HVLPs."
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with this spray gun? Any other 
>> recommendations?
>>
>> The primary use would be to spray primer and finish parts.
>>
>> My compressor delivers 8.6 CMF at 40 PSI and 6.4 CFM at 90 PSI.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> John
> 
>>
> 
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Mon Apr 13 19:30:29 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:30:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <49E3E735.5090507@htcnet.org>

I like your site and am grateful for all the work you have put into it.  
As to the link anyone should be
able to access it with a minimum of effort.

John
BJ8s

John Sims wrote:
> Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
> post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". I
> could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
> site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
> it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
> using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site. 
>
> What should I do?
>
> If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] 
> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: John Sims
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
>
> <<Take a look at:
>
> http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
> 20ebook.pdf
>
> Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of screws.>>
>
> WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
> YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other folks'
> Clients?!?!?!?	ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
> then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
> into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
> may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
> THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
> may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
>
> The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
>
> Bad Request
> Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as javrugtman at htcnet.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Mon Apr 13 19:35:43 2009
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:35:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <49E3E735.5090507@htcnet.org>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net> <49E3E735.5090507@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <49E3E86F.70402@comcast.net>

John,

It is your site; you are providing a terrific service; who cares what 
someone thinks about the URL or construction - it all works; please keep 
up the good work.

Larry Swift

John Vrugtman wrote:
> I like your site and am grateful for all the work you have put into 
> it.  As to the link anyone should be
> able to access it with a minimum of effort.
>
> John
> BJ8s
>
> John Sims wrote:
>> Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with 
>> this
>> post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using 
>> "tinyURL". I
>> could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my 
>> web
>> site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his 
>> criticism of
>> it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
>> using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site.
>> What should I do?
>>
>> If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>  
>> www.healey6.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] Sent: Monday, April 13, 
>> 2009 8:52 PM
>> To: John Sims
>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
>>
>> <<Take a look at:
>>
>> http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog% 
>>
>> 20ebook.pdf
>>
>> Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of 
>> screws.>>
>>
>> WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
>> YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other 
>> folks'
>> Clients?!?!?!?    ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
>> then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
>> into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
>> may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
>> THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
>> may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
>>
>> The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
>>
>> Bad Request
>> Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as javrugtman at htcnet.org
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From kags at shaw.ca  Mon Apr 13 19:52:04 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:52:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <ECCA13987D4247F3817F86ACE4C19821@computer>

John:

Please don't let Ed piss you off.  Most of us on this list have been burned 
by his critcism at one time or another - it's just his way of 
'contributing' - he seems to know 'everyrthing about everything' (sorry Ed, 
but that's how it comes across at times).

An awful lot of us are extremely grateful for what you do with your Healey 
web-site  as well as your regular contributions.  No one who posts to this 
list should have the ability to turn Healey people off - otherwise, what 
would be the point?  He'll only get to you if you allow it.

I'm going to have a nice before dinner drink now (West Coast time, you 
know) - if you were closer, I'd buy you one right now.  We could have a nice 
chat and look forward to those nice summer drives in the Healeys.

Cheers,

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners


Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". I
could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site.

What should I do?

If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 13 20:01:45 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 19:01:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Front left wheel well needed for BJ8
Message-ID: <351334.94550.qm@web90505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello All,
I need a good used front L/H wheel well with brace for attaching to shroud for
my BJ8.
Thanks,
Patrick

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Mon Apr 13 20:13:04 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 12:13:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Sims Site
Message-ID: <20090414121304.26713m5s7toq0x0w@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Things are different 'Downunder' but we place importance on content. Presentation is a bonus.John's site and his c o-operative nature re enquires should not be lost to the list due to the high standards set by Ed for presentation and accessability. I do enjoy Ed's contributions as reality checks. As a great Ausssie World Champion Boxer ( in several systems, WBC. etc.) says all the time "I loves yous all". 

Joe

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Mon Apr 13 21:18:36 2009
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:18:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net><OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <5B661C1A0B3B475A812F53BDDF27630A@655vb01>

John,
Your web site is a godsent. Don't change a thing!
Elton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners


> Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
> post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". 
> I
> could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
> site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
> it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
> using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site.
>
> What should I do?
>
> If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: John Sims
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
>
> <<Take a look at:
>
> http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
> 20ebook.pdf
>
> Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of 
> screws.>>
>
> WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
> YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other 
> folks'
> Clients?!?!?!? ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
> then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
> into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
> may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
> THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
> may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
>
> The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
>
> Bad Request
> Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eschulz at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Mon Apr 13 23:26:05 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:26:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <49E41E6D.5050205@pacbell.net>

Re:  Tiny URL's

It's pretty obvious to see a link has been "wrapped around" and won't 
work with a single click.  Takes me about 10 seconds to cut and paste 
it.  If you don't know how, catch me off List and I'll be more than 
happy to tell you.  I never use Tiny's, but fortunately my Thunderbird 
seems wrap them so they'll work on multiple lines.

Bill
'53 BN1

John Sims wrote:
> Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
> post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL". I
> could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
> site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
> it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
> using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site. 
>
> What should I do?
>
> If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com] 
> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: John Sims
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
>
> <<Take a look at:
>
> http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
> 20ebook.pdf
>
> Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of screws.>>
>
> WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
> YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other folks'
> Clients?!?!?!?	ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
> then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
> into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
> may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
> THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
> may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
>
> The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
>
> Bad Request
> Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 00:08:18 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 08:08:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <49E41E6D.5050205@pacbell.net>
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net>
	<OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net> <49E41E6D.5050205@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904132308v2b30225amee31218d25ec4382@mail.gmail.com>

All -

if you use Firefox for your browser, it is smart enough that you can
copy a wrapped link and it will post it as one line.  I never have a
problem with broken links with Firefox.



On 4/14/09, Mr. Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:
> Re:  Tiny URL's
>
> It's pretty obvious to see a link has been "wrapped around" and won't
> work with a single click.  Takes me about 10 seconds to cut and paste
> it.  If you don't know how, catch me off List and I'll be more than
> happy to tell you.  I never use Tiny's, but fortunately my Thunderbird
> seems wrap them so they'll work on multiple lines.
>
> Bill
> '53 BN1
>
> John Sims wrote:
>> Just for my edification, did anyone other than Ed have a problem with this
>> post in finding the web site? If so, I apologize for not using "tinyURL".
>> I
>> could, of course have just referred everyone to the proper page on my web
>> site but Ed hates that site also and is usually free with his criticism of
>> it. Perhaps, I  should just end my site. I get criticized by him for not
>> using tiny url and criticized for the construction of my site.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> If I sound pissed, then you read this correctly.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> www.healey6.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ed's Shop [mailto:shop at justbrits.com]
>> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:52 PM
>> To: John Sims
>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
>>
>> <<Take a look at:
>>
>> http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%
>> 20ebook.pdf
>>
>> Near the end of the listing in the left panel is several pages of
>> screws.>>
>>
>> WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
>> YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other
>> folks'
>> Clients?!?!?!?	ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
>> then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
>> into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
>> may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
>> THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
>> may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
>>
>> The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
>>
>> Bad Request
>> Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 02:05:32 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 10:05:32 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904140105u709369e6tb361ca3c07be4730@mail.gmail.com>

That's provided you have a coil marked for a positive ground car.  If
your coil is for a negative ground car the Contact Breaker and SW
markings are reversed.

On 4/14/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> SW means "switch" and was the terminal attached to the ignition switch. On
> our
> (originally) positive ground cars that terminal would be negative. CB means
> "contact breaker" (points). The points are at the end of the ignition
> circuit
> and are the grounding point. Again, since the car was originally positive
> ground, CB is the positive terminal.
> Bill Lawrence
>
>> From: ourxke at hotmail.com
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:48:40 -0400
>> Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
>>
>> The terminals are marked either - or +. Alternatively they are marked SW
> and
>> CB. I am putting in a new coil. Which one is the positive and which is the
>> negative?
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
>>
> http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi
>> le1_042009
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Apr 14 03:44:41 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (greylinn at ozemail.com.au)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:44:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand Healeys
Message-ID: <50180.1239702281@ozemail.com.au>


From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 05:22:03 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 06:22:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] john sims,
 keep up the good work on your site. mr. ed sometimes should listen
 more closely to wilbur.
Message-ID: <602134266.1120465.1239708123155.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>


From rkorn at simnet.is  Tue Apr 14 05:41:51 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:41:51 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] john sims,
 keep up the good work on your site. mr. ed sometimes should listen
 more closely to wilbur.
References: <602134266.1120465.1239708123155.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <AE823B7E056843A1AFD8E6C405BAB285@velad>

Geeeee....Don4t recall that ever happening


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jerry wall" <jwbn6 at verizon.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 11:22 AM
Subject: [Healeys] john sims, keep up the good work on your site. mr. ed 
sometimes should listen more closely to wilbur.


>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 05:57:37 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 06:57:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <31749319.596607.1239710257256.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>

/KuL7VK: Permission denied

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Apr 14 06:09:06 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 07:09:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] john sims, keep up the good work on your site
In-Reply-To: <AE823B7E056843A1AFD8E6C405BAB285@velad>
References: <602134266.1120465.1239708123155.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>
	<AE823B7E056843A1AFD8E6C405BAB285@velad>
Message-ID: <7BDB02823B1944C9986230956711D869@GregPC>

Joh, your wesbite as a great service to the Healey xommunity and a great 
compliment to the list, which strips pics and attachments, but wait a little 
while and we get to see them on your site, I have also pointed out your site 
to some of my fellow local club members who are working on their Healeys, so 
it is truly a resource to the whole Healey world.

Regards,

Greg Lemon

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Apr 14 06:33:57 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 08:33:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re; Excellent Website
References: <045b01c9bc2d$7ff5dfa0$7fe19ee0$@net><OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEJGDAAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<049b01c9bc9c$ef333380$cd999a80$@net>
Message-ID: <9E3A03FF764347AB8956752A5BE69705@your4dacd0ea75>

John, ignore Ed- he has a tiny URL  ;^)

Keep up the good work with the site, such as all the recent efforts in 
transferring all the technical articles from Jim Werner's old site.

I like your site, even if my cat doesn't care for the "Hey Boys - look what 
I got heah"  audio.

Dallas 

From mkgoodman at att.net  Tue Apr 14 07:34:00 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:34:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Sims
Message-ID: <001701c9bd05$ac7366a0$055a33e0$@net>

John works very hard to maintain a wonderful and informative website.
Anytime someone has an image or procedure, he is first to offer to put it on
his website.  I and many others find it most informative.  I especially
enjoy the audio clips that play when you go to certain sections.  I know
that if it is in the dead of winter, and I am traveling on business
somewhere, that I can go to his site and hear the wonderful sound of a
Healey engine just purr away.  The other clips are also quite amusing.  
 
Keep up the Great Work John!!!!!!
 
Mark Goodman
66BJ8 35503
www.austinhealeyessence.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 14 11:26:36 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 10:26:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904140105u709369e6tb361ca3c07be4730@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0904140105u709369e6tb361ca3c07be4730@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EC926A42-23AC-438B-A948-DB898EC9D111@sbcglobal.net>

All the Lucas coils that I know of that are marked CB and SW are  
positive ground coils.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Apr 14, 2009, at 1:05 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

> That's provided you have a coil marked for a positive ground car.  If
> your coil is for a negative ground car the Contact Breaker and SW
> markings are reversed.
>
> On 4/14/09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>> SW means "switch" and was the terminal attached to the ignition  
>> switch. On
>> our
>> (originally) positive ground cars that terminal would be negative.  
>> CB means
>> "contact breaker" (points). The points are at the end of the ignition
>> circuit
>> and are the grounding point. Again, since the car was originally  
>> positive
>> ground, CB is the positive terminal.
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>>> From: ourxke at hotmail.com
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:48:40 -0400
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
>>>
>>> The terminals are marked either - or +. Alternatively they are  
>>> marked SW
>> and
>>> CB. I am putting in a new coil. Which one is the positive and  
>>> which is the
>>> negative?
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>> Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
>>>
>> http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail? 
>> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi
>>> le1_042009
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Apr 14 12:25:55 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 12:25:55 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Coil Terminals
Message-ID: <AD24F426FE6E4B2B9D6872740DE01FDD@oscar>

Coil Terminals

Perhaps this point/question is being missed, so I'll blurt it out as I tend
to do...
 One can hook up the terminals either way and the car will run fine.
Backwards will cause a slight voltage drop to the high tension (spark plugs)
and look weird on a scope, but it won't "fry" anything if backwards, if that
is what is of concern. 
 All previous posts have been spot on.
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 14 12:44:05 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:44:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] stebro exhaust
Message-ID: <522872.23525.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just curious anyone on this list have one

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Apr 14 13:19:26 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 15:19:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] A little knowledge is a dangerous thing to waste
Message-ID: <d5a.4295f51b.37163bbe@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/14/09 10:07:20 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> > WHEN John, are you gonna learn that just because a link LOOKS OK in
> > YOUR eMail Client, it MOST likely will NOT display correctly in other
> > folks'
> > Clients?!?!?!? ESPECIALLY after it passes thru the receiving MTA
> > then thru a List Software Program and then thru the outgoing MTA and
> > into receiving end users Client.  That is NOT counting the 'hops' mails
> > may/may not make (being RE-handled TWICE at each 'hop')<G>!!  ALL
> > THAT said, then there IS the fact that various 'handlers' along the way
> > may be HTML set-up or might be MIME set-up.  And so on<VBG>!!
> >
> > The above results in a 400 Error, to wit:
> >
> > Bad Request
> > Your browser sent a request that this server could not understand.
>

Reminds me of the proverb: Give a man a fish, and he'll go away. Teach a
man to fish, and he'll bore you forever after.

Cheers
Gary


**************
Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on
the web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000002)

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 14:15:29 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 15:15:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  test- i may not be able to send a real email,
 however, i still have this block for correspondence.
Message-ID: <1202263979.1358757.1239740129243.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>


From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Tue Apr 14 14:37:40 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:37:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Website
Message-ID: <A1577168-10EF-4921-8539-55F40446A3BB@comcast.net>

Mr. Sims,

Your website was a tremendous help to me on my recent gearbox/ 
overdrive rebuild.  I also enjoyed our email exchanges.  I wrote a  
short description of the technique I userd to get the accumulator  
piston and the rings introduced into the housing without breaking any  
rings and without scoring the walls of the housing.  However, it never  
appeared in the autoox.team.net exchanges .  If this note is is  
printed and anyone would be interested in what I did I would be hapy  
to repond to emails.

Marks 3

From medlabinc at msn.com  Tue Apr 14 15:00:39 2009
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:00:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Spray Gun recommendations
Message-ID: <COL109-DS4908C7CB1158280A0C9C7A27C0@phx.gbl>

And then again I once painted my first car - a Model A - with a hand pump fly
sprayer.  Had patina and looked OK I thought.

D M / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Ed's Shop<mailto:shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations


<<It's more technique and getting the paint mixture and gun
settings right than having an expensive gun.>>

Gospel, gents.

I actually know a home-based PRO that paints entire hot-rods
to '70s sized cars with a door-jamb gun and is perfectly at
home/peace with it?!?!?!?

And his stuff IS amazing !!!  AND he is only around 40 -50
years old and can WAY afford to have a dozen $400 ones<G>!!

Ed
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>

You are subscribed as medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>

http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Apr 14 16:34:55 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 15:34:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted - red BJ8 top boot
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D0B@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Wanted red BJ8 top boot or maybe a black one suitable for dying.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From 57healey at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 16:53:04 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:53:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904141553h3630f5d4j1b9897065e435325@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know anything about this car, I just saw the ad and it looks
like it is at a dealership.
Patton

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1115876216.html

1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7 - $12800 (Wylie)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to: see below
Date: 2009-04-10, 9:49AM CDT

1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7
This car has been stored inside for past 15 years. 15 years ago it was
repainted and never finished. Drive train appears to be complete and
original. We have not attemped to make it run, it turns over freely by
hand. The car needs to be restored. The main frame and chassis are
solid, frame and outriggers and floors need to be replaced. Very good
candidate for restoration. Current CPI book value is low of $28,550.00
Good $51,000.00 and Excellent of $91,800.00 priced for quick sale at
less than 1/2 of low book value. VIN # HJB7L/24800.
Clear Texas Title.

$12,800.00

Please contact Dennis Collins 972-442-6189 x226 dennis at cbjeep.com
www.cbjeep.com


Location: Wylie, TX


--
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From 57healey at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 16:57:38 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:57:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904141553h3630f5d4j1b9897065e435325@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904141553h3630f5d4j1b9897065e435325@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904141557j6da49561k1ded4344565895d5@mail.gmail.com>

It is a dealer, and I just found their website link, lots of pictures

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/images/classic%20cars/63AH3000BJ7/63ah.htm

Patton

On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 5:53 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know anything about this car, I just saw the ad and it looks
> like it is at a dealership.
> Patton
>
> VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1115876216.html
>
> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7 - $12800 (Wylie)
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Reply to: see below
> Date: 2009-04-10, 9:49AM CDT
>
> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7
> This car has been stored inside for past 15 years. 15 years ago it was
> repainted and never finished. Drive train appears to be complete and
> original. We have not attemped to make it run, it turns over freely by
> hand. The car needs to be restored. The main frame and chassis are
> solid, frame and outriggers and floors need to be replaced. Very good
> candidate for restoration. Current CPI book value is low of $28,550.00
> Good $51,000.00 and Excellent of $91,800.00 priced for quick sale at
> less than 1/2 of low book value. VIN # HJB7L/24800.
> Clear Texas Title.
>
> $12,800.00
>
> Please contact Dennis Collins 972-442-6189 x226 dennis at cbjeep.com
> www.cbjeep.com
>
>
> Location: Wylie, TX
>
>
> --
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 1977 Newport '28
>



-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From ed957 at bellsouth.net  Tue Apr 14 17:34:27 2009
From: ed957 at bellsouth.net (ed957 at bellsouth.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:34:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator paint
Message-ID: <041420092334.27926.49E51D83000D373000006D1622230650629B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBFC9CAC70B0A@att.net>

Hello,

I had the radiator removed from my 1967 BJ 8 for repair.  My repair shop
(generally a very good one) failed to direct the radiator shop to whom the
radiator was sent to re-paint in black and red as it had been.  When it was
returned it had been entirely sprayed black - and a very poor spray at that.
It has been removed again, stripped and at another shop for re-paint.   My
questions:

1. My restorer had painted the top black and the shroud red to match the
exterior of the car. Is this shroud generally the same as the exterior? Also,
did the original shroud extend all the way down the side of the radiator? I
believe my restorer might have fabricated an additional piece that extends
down the complete length of each side of the radiator.

2. With the paint stripped I see embossed in brass on the top next to the
water filler hole: AHB 8946.  Should this be left in brass or painted over?

3. On the front facing of the radiator top is an attached plate that reads:
Coventry Radiator & Presswork Co. LTD and below this a separate plate reading:
629. These had been painted over - should these be left in brass? They both
have some corrosion on them, probably why my restorer covered them, but I feel
it looks better unpainted. What's generally done in this regard?

My concern is for judging. How was the radiator done originally? Were they
bare or painted black? Any input will be greatly appreciated on how this
should be painted for judging purposes.

Ed B
Valdosta, Georgia

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Apr 14 18:00:57 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:00:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904141557j6da49561k1ded4344565895d5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904141553h3630f5d4j1b9897065e435325@mail.gmail.com>
	<743b1e2f0904141557j6da49561k1ded4344565895d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A9ED8BCE42248079AE355E066D42B5B@LeonardPCPC>

Stored inside for 15 years?  That must have been one leaky garage!  "...The 
main frame and chassis are solid,...".  I must be looking at the wrong 
pictures.  Or did he mean "...solid rust..."?  Of course, if you don't have 
a body part at all (right rocker panel), it can't rust, can it.  The rest of 
the body looks pretty good, though considering the condition of the rest of 
the car.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist


> It is a dealer, and I just found their website link, lots of pictures
>
> http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/images/classic%20cars/63AH3000BJ7/63ah.htm
>
> Patton
>
> On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 5:53 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>> I don't know anything about this car, I just saw the ad and it looks
>> like it is at a dealership.
>> Patton
>>
>> VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
>>
>> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1115876216.html
>>
>> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7 - $12800 (Wylie)
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Reply to: see below
>> Date: 2009-04-10, 9:49AM CDT
>>
>> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7
>> This car has been stored inside for past 15 years. 15 years ago it was
>> repainted and never finished. Drive train appears to be complete and
>> original. We have not attemped to make it run, it turns over freely by
>> hand. The car needs to be restored. The main frame and chassis are
>> solid, frame and outriggers and floors need to be replaced. Very good
>> candidate for restoration. Current CPI book value is low of $28,550.00
>> Good $51,000.00 and Excellent of $91,800.00 priced for quick sale at
>> less than 1/2 of low book value. VIN # HJB7L/24800.
>> Clear Texas Title.
>>
>> $12,800.00
>>
>> Please contact Dennis Collins 972-442-6189 x226 dennis at cbjeep.com
>> www.cbjeep.com
>>
>>
>> Location: Wylie, TX
>>
>>
>> --
>> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
>> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
>> 1977 Newport '28
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 1977 Newport '28
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Apr 14 18:17:45 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:17:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator paint
In-Reply-To: <041420092334.27926.49E51D83000D373000006D1622230650629B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBFC9CAC70B0A@att.net>
References: <041420092334.27926.49E51D83000D373000006D1622230650629B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBFC9CAC70B0A@att.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c9bd5f$9a3b7360$ceb25a20$@net>

Ed, 

The radiator should be painted all gloss black with only the shroud guard
piece across the top just behind the header tank brush painted bright red.
These colours have absolutely nothing to do with the colour of the car. All
of the embossed number areas and the various plates are all covered with the
same gloss black.

If you're concerned about judging you should send for the National Concours
Registry 2009 edition of the Guidelines. It contains all this detail on a CD
that you can down load and print off into a 3 ring binder or such to have
with you in the shop. Details of how to order this should be in the list
Archives.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ed957 at bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 7:34 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator paint

Hello,

I had the radiator removed from my 1967 BJ 8 for repair.  My repair shop
(generally a very good one) failed to direct the radiator shop to whom the
radiator was sent to re-paint in black and red as it had been.  When it was
returned it had been entirely sprayed black - and a very poor spray at that.
It has been removed again, stripped and at another shop for re-paint.   My
questions:

1. My restorer had painted the top black and the shroud red to match the
exterior of the car. Is this shroud generally the same as the exterior?
Also,
did the original shroud extend all the way down the side of the radiator? I
believe my restorer might have fabricated an additional piece that extends
down the complete length of each side of the radiator.

2. With the paint stripped I see embossed in brass on the top next to the
water filler hole: AHB 8946.  Should this be left in brass or painted over?

3. On the front facing of the radiator top is an attached plate that reads:
Coventry Radiator & Presswork Co. LTD and below this a separate plate
reading:
629. These had been painted over - should these be left in brass? They both
have some corrosion on them, probably why my restorer covered them, but I
feel
it looks better unpainted. What's generally done in this regard?

My concern is for judging. How was the radiator done originally? Were they
bare or painted black? Any input will be greatly appreciated on how this
should be painted for judging purposes.

Ed B
Valdosta, Georgia

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Tue Apr 14 18:26:06 2009
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:26:06 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist
Message-ID: <bf2.4e2d1fe7.3716839e@aol.com>

The car shown also has BJ8 -Phase 2 front and rear shrouds. 
Enough said.  

Marion S.  Brantley, Jr.
TBAHC Membership Chmn./Delegate
Concours Committee  Member

**************Why pay full price? Check out this month's deals on the new 
AOL Shopping. (http://shopping.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntinstor00000001)

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Tue Apr 14 18:52:04 2009
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 19:52:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904141557j6da49561k1ded4344565895d5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904141553h3630f5d4j1b9897065e435325@mail.gmail.com>
	<743b1e2f0904141557j6da49561k1ded4344565895d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701c9bd64$65afa940$310efbc0$@com>

I think that this car was on a car lot in Austin, TX in 1980.  The car lot
was right across the street from Wheatsville Co-op on Guadalupe, just north
of campus.  The red color sticks out in my mind as do the conversions to BJ8
spec.  The car was in much better shape then.  I'll ask my roommate from
that period if he remembers.  If it was stored inside for the past 15 years,
that must mean inside of a salt-water tank.

Randy
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ6 #20040
60 BT7
66 Cobra replica
06 Mini Cooper S


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 5:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ-7 forsale on Dallas Craigslist

It is a dealer, and I just found their website link, lots of pictures

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/images/classic%20cars/63AH3000BJ7/63ah.htm

Patton

On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 5:53 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know anything about this car, I just saw the ad and it looks
> like it is at a dealership.
> Patton
>
> VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
>
> http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1115876216.html
>
> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7 - $12800 (Wylie)
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> Reply to: see below
> Date: 2009-04-10, 9:49AM CDT
>
> 1963 Austin Healey 3000 BJ-7
> This car has been stored inside for past 15 years. 15 years ago it was
> repainted and never finished. Drive train appears to be complete and
> original. We have not attemped to make it run, it turns over freely by
> hand. The car needs to be restored. The main frame and chassis are
> solid, frame and outriggers and floors need to be replaced. Very good
> candidate for restoration. Current CPI book value is low of $28,550.00
> Good $51,000.00 and Excellent of $91,800.00 priced for quick sale at
> less than 1/2 of low book value. VIN # HJB7L/24800.
> Clear Texas Title.
>
> $12,800.00
>
> Please contact Dennis Collins 972-442-6189 x226 dennis at cbjeep.com
> www.cbjeep.com
>
>
> Location: Wylie, TX
>
>
> --
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 1977 Newport '28

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Apr 14 19:24:14 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 21:24:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator paint
References: <041420092334.27926.49E51D83000D373000006D1622230650629B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBFC9CAC70B0A@att.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP12DD31D6CA60AD02A0BE76C37D0@phx.gbl>

Ed B.,

The entire rad is painted black (gloss or semi gloss) and the fan shroud is 
painted red afterwards and is brush painted, not sprayed.  The red is best 
described as Chinese red - it is quite bright and should be gloss and has 
nothing to do with the exterior colour - as far as I know, no Healey was 
painted the same red that the fan shroud was.  All identification plates 
were black as the rest of the rad.  I have spray painted my own rads with a 
spray bomb of good quality paint with excellent results - no need to have it 
done at a shop.

The fan shroud just goes across the header tank, not down the sides.  This 
is available as a separate part very inexpensively and you would be best off 
to buy it and have it soldered on.  It was originally held by three spots of 
solder and unless someone has purposely removed them, they are usually 
visible on rads where the shroud has become detached.

Cheers,

Mirek
60 BT7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ed957 at bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 7:34 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator paint


> Hello,
>
> I had the radiator removed from my 1967 BJ 8 for repair.  My repair shop
> (generally a very good one) failed to direct the radiator shop to whom the
> radiator was sent to re-paint in black and red as it had been.  When it 
> was
> returned it had been entirely sprayed black - and a very poor spray at 
> that.
> It has been removed again, stripped and at another shop for re-paint.   My
> questions:
>
> 1. My restorer had painted the top black and the shroud red to match the
> exterior of the car. Is this shroud generally the same as the exterior? 
> Also,
> did the original shroud extend all the way down the side of the radiator? 
> I
> believe my restorer might have fabricated an additional piece that extends
> down the complete length of each side of the radiator.
>
> 2. With the paint stripped I see embossed in brass on the top next to the
> water filler hole: AHB 8946.  Should this be left in brass or painted 
> over?
>
> 3. On the front facing of the radiator top is an attached plate that 
> reads:
> Coventry Radiator & Presswork Co. LTD and below this a separate plate 
> reading:
> 629. These had been painted over - should these be left in brass? They 
> both
> have some corrosion on them, probably why my restorer covered them, but I 
> feel
> it looks better unpainted. What's generally done in this regard?
>
> My concern is for judging. How was the radiator done originally? Were they
> bare or painted black? Any input will be greatly appreciated on how this
> should be painted for judging purposes.
>
> Ed B
> Valdosta, Georgia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Apr 14 19:29:27 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 21:29:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
References: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl><BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl><ff59076c0904140105u709369e6tb361ca3c07be4730@mail.gmail.com>
	<EC926A42-23AC-438B-A948-DB898EC9D111@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP62F75B20C095C49C995A13C37D0@phx.gbl>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" you wrote:  All the Lucas coils that I know of that are 
marked CB and SW are
> positive ground coils.

Hi all,

I have a Lucas Sports Coil which is marked "+" and "-" and I always have to
think carefully when I hook it up.  I bought this back in the 70s and could
not swear that I bought the correct one, although after performing
faultlessly for 30+ years I have no issues with it..

Is there any way to distinguish a positive ground coil from a negative
ground coil?  I should look to see if there are any part numbers stamped on
it anywhere.

I uunderstand that switching the two connections will still allow the motor 
to run, but it is nice to get it right, n'est pas?

cheers,

Mirek
60 BT7
(eagerly awaiting my Heritage Certificate to confirm what I suspect - that
my car was actually built in late 1959)

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 20:02:11 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 19:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Terminals
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP62F75B20C095C49C995A13C37D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL108-W554F9ED84C56F5461631F9D17F0@phx.gbl>
	<BAY144-W2553248745C205EDDA696BA57F0@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0904140105u709369e6tb361ca3c07be4730@mail.gmail.com>
	<EC926A42-23AC-438B-A948-DB898EC9D111@sbcglobal.net>
	<BLU0-SMTP62F75B20C095C49C995A13C37D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10904141902j97b9746l7c6a8dc061912a4e@mail.gmail.com>

>>Is there any way to distinguish a positive ground coil from a negative
ground coil?  I should look to see if there are any part numbers stamped on
it anywhere.

There is a real easy way to tell if the coil is wired correctly.  Hook the
engine up to an ignition oscilloscope.  If the coil is hooked up backwards
the real pretty squiggly lines will be upside down.
The engine will run if the coil is backwards.  In fact you probably would
never notice the difference if you wire the coil backwards.  The reason for
the polarity is that firing backwards it takes about 15% more energy to fire
the plug than firing forward.  So as long as your power requirements are
less than about 85% of the coil's output you will probably never be able to
notice the difference.

Rick

From 57healey at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 20:26:04 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 21:26:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fire Destroys Garage Containing Healey
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904141926t3659abafw1150b83cd846a996@mail.gmail.com>

Hopefully not a list member

-------------------------------------------

Fire Destroys Garage, Cars, and Motorcycle
Omaha, NE - A fire shoots up out of the garage of an Omaha home.
Firefighters rushed to the scene at 3042 South 108th Street stopping
flames from spreading to neighboring homes.

A garage consumed by flames and smoke.  Firefighters rush to put it
out.  The homeowner, Wendy Olson watches and is overwhelmed by what
she sees in front of her. "It was just, totally just engulfed in
flames," said homeowner, Wendy Olson.

Fast action by neighbors helped Olson and her family get out of the
house in case the fire spread. "People were pounding on the door
saying there's a fire," said Olson.

"I looked out the kitchen window and flames started shooting up. The
dog was kind of whimpering over here," said a neighbor.

Parts of the garage collapsed.  Charcoal skeletons of two cars and a
motorcycle lay under the burnt wood.  The loss hits Olson hard.  A
month ago, she made the tough financial decision to take her vehicles
off full coverage insurance, only keeping them under liability. "A
brand new Prius, a Harley, a Honda, an Austin Healey," said Olson.

Olson tries to think positive, knowing her loved ones and pets are
safe.  Firefighters tell Action 3 News, her family is extremely lucky.
"If the wind was right, it could have very well spread to the house,"
said Olson.

A neighbor did happen to save one of the Olson's cars from the fire.
The cause of the fire is still under investigation.



-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Apr 14 20:56:22 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 21:56:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fire Destroys Garage Containing Healey
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904141926t3659abafw1150b83cd846a996@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904141926t3659abafw1150b83cd846a996@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DBC348650A7C4C62B494EABC1435B2AE@GregPC>

We have an Olson in Omaha in our local  club with a BJ8--but the first name 
and address don't match--am checking it out.

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 9:26 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fire Destroys Garage Containing Healey


> Hopefully not a list member
>
> -------------------------------------------
>
> Fire Destroys Garage, Cars, and Motorcycle
> Omaha, NE - A fire shoots up out of the garage of an Omaha home.
> Firefighters rushed to the scene at 3042 South 108th Street stopping
> flames from spreading to neighboring homes.
>
> A garage consumed by flames and smoke.  Firefighters rush to put it
> out.  The homeowner, Wendy Olson watches and is overwhelmed by what
> she sees in front of her. "It was just, totally just engulfed in
> flames," said homeowner, Wendy Olson.
>
> Fast action by neighbors helped Olson and her family get out of the
> house in case the fire spread. "People were pounding on the door
> saying there's a fire," said Olson.
>
> "I looked out the kitchen window and flames started shooting up. The
> dog was kind of whimpering over here," said a neighbor.
>
> Parts of the garage collapsed.  Charcoal skeletons of two cars and a
> motorcycle lay under the burnt wood.  The loss hits Olson hard.  A
> month ago, she made the tough financial decision to take her vehicles
> off full coverage insurance, only keeping them under liability. "A
> brand new Prius, a Harley, a Honda, an Austin Healey," said Olson.
>
> Olson tries to think positive, knowing her loved ones and pets are
> safe.  Firefighters tell Action 3 News, her family is extremely lucky.
> "If the wind was right, it could have very well spread to the house,"
> said Olson.
>
> A neighbor did happen to save one of the Olson's cars from the fire.
> The cause of the fire is still under investigation.
>
>
>
> -- 
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 1977 Newport '28
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Tue Apr 14 21:21:44 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 03:21:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys]  John Sims Rules!
In-Reply-To: <42404307.2206741239765684476.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <724993296.2206811239765704622.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

When I first became involved in the restoration of my Healey, I was most
impressed with John Sim's website. I realized that John lived in close
proximity to me, so I shot him an email thanking him for his website (and
secretly hoping I'd get to meet another Healey enthusiast). John invited me to
the next meeting of The Positive Earth Driver's Club. That was January of
B '08. I joined the club, and at that meeting met John for the first time.
Among a lot of other helpful advice, he insisted that I subscribe to "The
List". I started my restoration in February, and thanks to our chance
introduction, another Healey has been saved, and this one is on it's way to
Conclave'09. I hope we can still talk Mr. Sims into caravaning up to Ontario
with us.


Let the little people say what they want, John. Nobody listens to them <G>,
but we all hear you loud and clear.B 


Thanks. Tom

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 03:59:23 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:59:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
In-Reply-To: <042b01c9bb15$e08a30f0$a19e92d0$@net>
References: <351627.38270.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<042b01c9bb15$e08a30f0$a19e92d0$@net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150259u3247dfc9m454a2e4a859e4e74@mail.gmail.com>

Actually, Jay Leno is a rarity in Hollywood - a true gentleman.  I've met
him and his wife at Monterrey - First rate all the way, I don't think they
would ever get divorced.  It's not the money.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 4:24 AM, John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net> wrote:

> Or the right amount of money?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Robert Blair
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:59 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; Editorgary at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wives and cars
>
> Leno seems to either have either the right formula or the right wife -
> maybe
> even both.....
>
> Interesting thread ......
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 04:29:57 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 12:29:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP458515ABD5713A6E8ACC27C37F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP458515ABD5713A6E8ACC27C37F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150329l650b9005hf0b6101831df2411@mail.gmail.com>

I found these guys have cap screws in this size:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1GU53

Seems a shame no one has this stuff, these were standard sizes used on our
60's LBCs

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 4:24 AM, Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure the
> toggle
> clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure (but would
> welcome
> being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips oval head, 1/2"
> long.
> Stainless would be fine as it can be polished up.
>
> I can't find these at any of my normal suppliers (although I can get pan
> head
> 8-36, so the this thread type is around).
>
> If anyone has a source for these or has 4 they are willing to part with,
> please let me know.
>
> I know I can re-tap the holes to something more common but would rather not
> do
> this to a very original hardtop.
>
> cheers,
>
> Mirek

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 05:33:43 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 13:33:43 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE
bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.

Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of

I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
to 5/16" at a machine shop.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:

> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>
> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>
> Tom

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 07:16:53 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 13:16:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <443453684.2293871239801413983.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Alan- 


Great idea. I should have searched their inventory a little harder. I haven't replaced the bushes yet, and I'll definitely use the teflon instead. Thanks for your input 


Thomas Leavy 
451 Branchport Ave 
Oceanport, NJ 07757 
908-433-9322 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com> 
To: tomleavy at comcast.net 
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 7:33:43 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ?? 

Tom - 

Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s. 

Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option. 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of 

I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out to 5/16" at a machine shop. 

Alan 

'52 A90 
'53 BN1 
'64 BJ8 



On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, < tomleavy at comcast.net > wrote: 




Sorry, forgot to paste the link: 

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html 

Tom 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 08:15:50 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:15:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49E5EC16.8020301@comcast.net>

The HD8 carbs on my BJ8 have brass bushings with a teflon sleeve.  Is someone 
selling teflon bushings?


Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Tom -
> 
> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE
> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
> 
> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
> 
> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>
>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>
>> Tom
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 08:34:29 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:34:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <49E5EC16.8020301@comcast.net>
References: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E5EC16.8020301@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150734r74a7bc5ubd9c163dee271b0f@mail.gmail.com>

Bob - the HD8 set up is ideal.  Don't mess with it.  I'm trying to
figure out my HD6s.  - Alan


On 4/15/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> The HD8 carbs on my BJ8 have brass bushings with a teflon sleeve.  Is
> someone
> selling teflon bushings?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> Tom -
>>
>> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use
>> PTFE
>> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
>> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>>
>> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>>
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>>
>> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored
>> out
>> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>>
>>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>>
>>> Tom
>>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Apr 15 08:46:02 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 09:46:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ?? Rock Steady Idle
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CA70F86BA384189ACD7E2D3D9D0E629@DANSTROM>

My BJ8 with HD8 carbs starts to idle faster and faster as it heats up.  It
goes from about 500 RPM to 1000?  Any ideas why?  Also, if I pump the gas
frequently it backfires.  My guess is I am just getting some unburnt vapors
into the exhaust system that ignite and this is probably normal.  Anyone
else have these problems and what was the fix?  I stopped pumping the pedal
but still get a little fart every now and then.
Dan


 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:34 AM
To: tomleavy at comcast.net
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??

Tom -

Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE
bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.

Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of

I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
to 5/16" at a machine shop.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:

> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>
> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>
> Tom
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 08:49:24 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:49:24 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <49E5EC16.8020301@comcast.net>
References: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E5EC16.8020301@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150749n121a7edcxd67111b05e78d267@mail.gmail.com>

I meant to say the HD8 teflon sleeve is fine. Sorry I misspoke about
HD8s having PTFE bushings

On 4/15/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> The HD8 carbs on my BJ8 have brass bushings with a teflon sleeve.  Is
> someone
> selling teflon bushings?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> Tom -
>>
>> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use
>> PTFE
>> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
>> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>>
>> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>>
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>>
>> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored
>> out
>> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>>
>>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>>
>>> Tom
>>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 08:50:10 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:50:10 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ?? Rock Steady Idle
In-Reply-To: <8CA70F86BA384189ACD7E2D3D9D0E629@DANSTROM>
References: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CA70F86BA384189ACD7E2D3D9D0E629@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150750k7a4c88e8k88a749be5b817de@mail.gmail.com>

On 4/15/09, Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com> wrote:
> My BJ8 with HD8 carbs starts to idle faster and faster as it heats up.  It
> goes from about 500 RPM to 1000?  Any ideas why?  Also, if I pump the gas
> frequently it backfires.  My guess is I am just getting some unburnt vapors
> into the exhaust system that ignite and this is probably normal.  Anyone
> else have these problems and what was the fix?  I stopped pumping the pedal
> but still get a little fart every now and then.
> Dan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:34 AM
> To: tomleavy at comcast.net
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
>
> Tom -
>
> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE
> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>
> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>
> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>
>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>
>> Tom
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 15 08:54:16 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wives and cars
Message-ID: <837583.25675.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John, Alan, totally agree - have talked to him in Monterey for years.

Straight arrow.....

I think the one wife and a 100 cars is a great strategy.


Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 4/15/09, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wives and cars
> To: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> Cc: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net,
Editorgary at aol.com
> Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 2:59 AM
> Actually, Jay Leno is a rarity in
> Hollywood - a true gentleman.  I've met him and his
> wife at Monterrey - First rate all the way, I don't
> think they would ever get divorced.  It's not the
> money.
>  
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 4:24 AM,
> John Sims <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> Or the right amount of money?
>
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
>
> On Behalf Of Robert Blair
>
> Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:59 PM
>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net;
> Editorgary at aol.com
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wives and cars
>
>
>
> Leno seems to either have either the
> right formula or the right wife - maybe
>
> even both.....
>
>
>
> Interesting thread ......
>
>
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 08:59:17 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:59:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ?? Rock Steady Idle
In-Reply-To: <8CA70F86BA384189ACD7E2D3D9D0E629@DANSTROM>
References: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CA70F86BA384189ACD7E2D3D9D0E629@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904150759v771d88dax48013826757a9d51@mail.gmail.com>

Dan - the idle speeds up because you probably have leaking around the
throttle spindles which increases air leakage as the car warms up -
your carbs are probably running rich.  This is easily fixed by
replacing the PTFE throttle shaft sleeves on you HD8 carbs.  British
Car Specialists sell this material (uncut) or you can get them pre cut
from XKS.com.  Look up the sleeves on the XKS.com E-type carb page -
they are the same for a BJ8 as on a Series 1 or 2 E-type.

The farting probably comes from no oil in your dashpot pistons - you
have to check this every few hundred miles on your car and refill as
needed.

Alan

On 4/15/09, Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com> wrote:
> My BJ8 with HD8 carbs starts to idle faster and faster as it heats up.  It
> goes from about 500 RPM to 1000?  Any ideas why?  Also, if I pump the gas
> frequently it backfires.  My guess is I am just getting some unburnt vapors
> into the exhaust system that ignite and this is probably normal.  Anyone
> else have these problems and what was the fix?  I stopped pumping the pedal
> but still get a little fart every now and then.
> Dan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:34 AM
> To: tomleavy at comcast.net
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
>
> Tom -
>
> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use PTFE
> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>
> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>
> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>
>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>
>> Tom
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Wed Apr 15 09:39:45 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:39:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Seal or Glazing
Message-ID: <11133921.1239809986155.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Listers,

I was the lucky receipient of a cracked windshield last year at SE Classic in Lynchburg, TN.  I am now tired of looking through the crack and want to replace the windscreen on my BN7.  The old seal kind of looked like a rubberized windlace material that came from M*** in '05 during my restoration.  The seal I recently received from M*** is a smooth thicker version that basically looks like a cut rubber band.  It does not want to cooperate because of the thickness.  It is just too thick!

Does anyone have experience or can direct me to a source for a better, thinner seal/glazing?  or an alternative from similar application...someone mentioned one from a MGA at one point.

Help!

Thanks in advance,

John Homonek
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 11:54:16 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 13:54:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Seal or Glazing
In-Reply-To: <11133921.1239809986155.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <11133921.1239809986155.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <49E61F48.3030303@comcast.net>

John,
Check out Restoration Specialties 
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%20ebook.pdf
Page 32, glass setting tape, all rubber.  Measure the channel in the 
frame and subtract the thickness of the glass, divide by two, and that 
should be the thickness you need.
The rubber is partly vulcanized, so it wraps the glass easier and self 
seals at the joints.
Charlie

John H wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I was the lucky receipient of a cracked windshield last year at SE Classic in Lynchburg, TN.  I am now tired of looking through the crack and want to replace the windscreen on my BN7.  The old seal kind of looked like a rubberized windlace material that came from M*** in '05 during my restoration.  The seal I recently received from M*** is a smooth thicker version that basically looks like a cut rubber band.  It does not want to cooperate because of the thickness.  It is just too thick!
>
> Does anyone have experience or can direct me to a source for a better, thinner seal/glazing?  or an alternative from similar application...someone mentioned one from a MGA at one point.
>
> Help!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Homonek
> 1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Apr 15 12:27:14 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 20:27:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Seal or Glazing
In-Reply-To: <49E61F48.3030303@comcast.net>
References: <11133921.1239809986155.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<49E61F48.3030303@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057458F1@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

John,
I can only support Charlie4s suggestion. He gave me the hint a couple of
months ago. I bought the 3/64 thick material and I only can say it is the
right stuff and I am very satisfied.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Charlie Baldwin
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 15. April 2009 19:54
An: John H
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Windscreen Seal or Glazing

John,
Check out Restoration Specialties
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%2
0ebook.pdf
Page 32, glass setting tape, all rubber.  Measure the channel in the frame and
subtract the thickness of the glass, divide by two, and that should be the
thickness you need.
The rubber is partly vulcanized, so it wraps the glass easier and self seals
at the joints.
Charlie

John H wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I was the lucky receipient of a cracked windshield last year at SE Classic
in Lynchburg, TN.  I am now tired of looking through the crack and want to
replace the windscreen on my BN7.  The old seal kind of looked like a
rubberized windlace material that came from M*** in '05 during my restoration.
The seal I recently received from M*** is a smooth thicker version that
basically looks like a cut rubber band.  It does not want to cooperate because
of the thickness.  It is just too thick!
>
> Does anyone have experience or can direct me to a source for a better,
thinner seal/glazing?  or an alternative from similar application...someone
mentioned one from a MGA at one point.
>
> Help!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Homonek
> 1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Wed Apr 15 15:23:54 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:23:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
Message-ID: <000601c9be10$7ac1df90$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

All this talk about wives made me wonder.  My wife has been the one that
purchased 2 of my 3 cars.  She got better deals than I did.  We restored them
as a team.  What I don't understand is how you get some of the projects done
without a helper.  That extra set of hands is essential.  As an example: we
just finished the rear seat back on a BJ8.  I don't know how to do it by
yourself.  There was lots of pulling and staples which required extra hands.
I find lots of projects that require an extra set of hands.

How do you guys get the job done?

Jerry
BN4
TR3A
BJ8

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed Apr 15 15:40:32 2009
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 17:40:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <000601c9be10$7ac1df90$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <000601c9be10$7ac1df90$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <49E65450.4040605@htcnet.org>

I agree.  I just finished helping my wife cover the AL bow on the BJ8 
project; she is much better
at that than I.  She was invaluable in doing the seats, and has helped 
with many other tasks, that
took more than two hands, not to mention the tolerance of all the costs.

John
66BJ8
64BJ8 in progress

Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> All this talk about wives made me wonder.  My wife has been the one that
> purchased 2 of my 3 cars.  She got better deals than I did.  We restored them
> as a team.  What I don't understand is how you get some of the projects done
> without a helper.  That extra set of hands is essential.  As an example: we
> just finished the rear seat back on a BJ8.  I don't know how to do it by
> yourself.  There was lots of pulling and staples which required extra hands.
> I find lots of projects that require an extra set of hands.
>
> How do you guys get the job done?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> TR3A
> BJ8

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Apr 15 15:56:32 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 17:56:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
Message-ID: <c8c.3cafee67.3717b210@aol.com>

My parts book indicates that the motor mount brackets that bolt to the
engine are handed on a BJ7/8, but upon very close examination I cannot find
any
 RH or LH stamping on either bracket, or part number stamped on them. My
brackets  appear to be identical & the (4) bolt holes are slotted which seems
to  indicate that they would be "universal". Do I have one of those very
rare &  valuable "special test cars" that I have read about or is there
another
 explanation?  FYI, I tried searching the archive to no avail.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
**************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at
$479
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From rjswain at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 15 15:59:47 2009
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 21:59:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Part Dimensions
Message-ID: <BAY112-W19BB3BB6DB2000757881DBB57D0@phx.gbl>

I need the sizes of a couple of fairly obscure parts for my 1959 BN4. The
first is the wooden block that is located on each side of the car above the
inner fenders and slightly behind the tonneau bar mounting holes, or the holes
used for the top frame on later roadsters. I believe the function of these
blocks is to help locate the top frame laterally when it is stowed. Are these
blocks painted body colour or covered in leathercloth like the spare wheel
blocks?
Second part is the bracket that holds the rear quarter panel in place against
the wheel arch. These are not the pieces that are bolted in place with the
seat back brackets. There is a bracket on each side of the car bolted to the
heelboard. These pieces are painted interior trim colour.
Any information on sizes of these parts greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Rick Swain
_________________________________________________________________
Experience all of the new features, and Reconnect with your life.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650730

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Apr 15 16:16:31 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:16:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Coil Terminals
Message-ID: <c21.48e8f0a2.3717b6bf@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: Warthodson
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Sent: 4/15/2009 5:14:49 P.M.  Central Daylight Time
Subj: Re: [Healeys] Coil Terminals



If your battery is positive (+) grounded then hook the coil up  such that
the "+" terminal is connected to the contact breaker (I.E.  the wire, going
to the distributor) & the "-" terminal to the  wire going to the ignition
switch. If your battery is reversed, then reverse  the wires. On 6 cylinder
cars (the only wire diagram I have readily available)  the Distributor wire
is
WB (White/Black) & the switch wire is White.
There is no such thing as a positive or negative grounded coil.
Gary Hodson



In a message dated 4/14/2009 8:29:54 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca writes:

Hi  all,

I have a Lucas Sports Coil which is marked "+" and "-" and I  always have to
think carefully when I hook it up.
Is there any  way to distinguish a positive ground coil from a negative
ground  coil?  I should look to see if there are any part numbers stamped
on
it anywhere.




____________________________________
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From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Apr 15 16:34:14 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:34:14 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
Message-ID: <c0f.4b0c378c.3717bae6@aol.com>

Sorry, I forgot to mention it is a '64 Phase 1 BJ8.
Gary Hodson
**************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at
$479
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From eyera3 at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 16:39:55 2009
From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 15:39:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] hotel in Paris
Message-ID: <173126440904151539l4dfd2e35u8170f54618af63d5@mail.gmail.com>

My wife and I will be spending 1 night in Paris in early July. can anyone
suggest a hotel in the under 125 euro price range?
anything other than the obvious tourist stuff I should see?
I will also be in Cologne, Germany for 5 days July 2-6. Anything within a 3
hour drive?
Thanks
We are going to the MG event and Beaulieu, in England july 8-12.
cheers,
-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Apr 15 17:03:24 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:03:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
Message-ID: <566155.79404.qm@web88002.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

They are different Gary, and if you were to bead blast them you would find an
LH on one and a RH on the other..
I'm pretty sure the LH one goes on the left and the RH goes on the right ;-)

Michael Salter   

--- On Wed, 4/15/09, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

From: Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 9:56 PM

My parts book indicates that the motor mount brackets that bolt to the
engine are handed on a BJ7/8, but upon very close examination I cannot find
any
 RH or LH stamping on either bracket, or part number stamped on them. My
brackets  appear to be identical & the (4) bolt holes are slotted which seems
to  indicate that they would be "universal". Do I have one of those very
rare &  valuable "special test cars" that I have read about or is there
another
 explanation?  FYI, I tried searching the archive to no avail.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Apr 15 17:42:55 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:42:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <000601c9be10$7ac1df90$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <20090415194255.M1HVG.778000.imail@eastrmwml44>

Jerry,

You are absolutely right in that many times 4 hands are better than 2.  So good to hear that your wife is such a help with Healey work.  Would you please supply me with a contact number for her?  Does she have any quirks or work requirements that I should be aware of before we start on some work?  Does she work weekends?  Would I be expected to feed her and supply her lodging?

:)
Keith Pennell

> All this talk about wives made me wonder.  My wife has been the one that
> purchased 2 of my 3 cars.  She got better deals than I did.  We restored them
> as a team.  What I don't understand is how you get some of the projects done
> without a helper.  That extra set of hands is essential.  As an example: we
> just finished the rear seat back on a BJ8.  I don't know how to do it by
> yourself.  There was lots of pulling and staples which required extra hands.
> I find lots of projects that require an extra set of hands.
> 
> How do you guys get the job done?
> 
> Jerry

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Wed Apr 15 18:54:22 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 17:54:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] hotel in Paris
In-Reply-To: <173126440904151539l4dfd2e35u8170f54618af63d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C60BCFCE.16DB%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

Some years ago we stayed at Le Meridien Etoile Hotel in Paris and it was not
fancy, but it was inexpensive and right in the heart of the city.  There is
a vacancy on July 1, rate is $361 (dollars).


I Erbseyera3 at gmail.com

> My wife and I will be spending 1 night in Paris in early July. can anyone
> suggest a hotel in the under 125 euro price range?
> anything other than the obvious tourist stuff I should see?
> I will also be in Cologne, Germany for 5 days July 2-6. Anything within a 3
> hour drive?
> Thanks
> We are going to the MG event and Beaulieu, in England july 8-12.
> cheers,

From ghess4 at cox.net  Wed Apr 15 19:51:05 2009
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:51:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."
Message-ID: <128B8AFA79ED47CFA650204E7C9F8645@GalePC>

He to all the Healey folks,
We all tend to judge a book by it's cover sometimes.  This is not about
Healeys but it is about a heart warming story of one British Lady who moved
through life with her own grace and quality.



Before you watch...

She's a homely, heavyset, 47-year old woman who lives alone with her cat.

...was teased mercilessly as a child because an accident at birth left her
sounding mentally disabled.

...admits she has never had a boyfriend, and "has never even been kissed".

And when she watched the tape of her audition said, "Oh my, I look like a
garage".

Onstage, the chuckles began before she even made it all the way out. The
audience openly laughed at her, when she said her dream was "to sing in front
of a large audience, maybe even to be a professional singer"...

Simon Cowel could barely contain his dismay when she poked fun at herself with
a bawdy joke about her age and appearance...

...and then she did this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lp0IWv8QZY

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 20:40:53 2009
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 02:40:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Attn: Ken Sears ie> Linkedin group
In-Reply-To: <837583.25675.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1102838772.2800181239849653728.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Ken,



B B B B B B B B  I got your message about joining the Linkedin Austin Healey
list.B  You need to go into your Linkedin account and look up the Austin
Healey club group and request membership.B  That is the only way you can
join.B  I can't just add you...



Mike Brouillette

59 BT7

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 15 20:56:08 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:56:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] teflon bush BJ8
Message-ID: <765799.39491.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bob Spidell .. We have these teflon bush , see page 24 in Our Rare Parts
Catalog                     The catalog can be down loaded from  our  
 www.BritishCarSpecialists.com                    Norman Nock

--- On Wed, 4/15/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: tomleavy at comcast.net, Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 7:15 AM

The HD8 carbs on my BJ8 have brass bushings with a teflon sleeve.  Is someone
selling teflon bushings?


Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Tom -
>
> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use
PTFE
> bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear and
> it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>
> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>
> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>
>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>
>> Tom
>
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Apr 15 21:22:20 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 23:22:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."
References: <128B8AFA79ED47CFA650204E7C9F8645@GalePC>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP87DBC3204D6013792C69E7C37A0@phx.gbl>

Not my kind of music - but inspirational and what a lovely story - thanks 
for sharing.that.

Mirek

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ghess4" <ghess4 at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 9:51 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."


> He to all the Healey folks,
> We all tend to judge a book by it's cover sometimes.  This is not about
> Healeys but it is about a heart warming story of one British Lady who 
> moved
> through life with her own grace and quality.
>
>
>
> Before you watch...
>
> She's a homely, heavyset, 47-year old woman who lives alone with her cat.
>
> ...was teased mercilessly as a child because an accident at birth left her
> sounding mentally disabled.
>
> ...admits she has never had a boyfriend, and "has never even been kissed".
>
> And when she watched the tape of her audition said, "Oh my, I look like a
> garage".
>
> Onstage, the chuckles began before she even made it all the way out. The
> audience openly laughed at her, when she said her dream was "to sing in 
> front
> of a large audience, maybe even to be a professional singer"...
>
> Simon Cowel could barely contain his dismay when she poked fun at herself 
> with
> a bawdy joke about her age and appearance...
>
> ...and then she did this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lp0IWv8QZY
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Wed Apr 15 21:31:53 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 20:31:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
References: <20090415194255.M1HVG.778000.imail@eastrmwml44>
Message-ID: <004401c9be43$e37cc120$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Keith,

Upkeep is very high.  I also have been told by her that I can't afford to 
lose her.  Besides,  she is darn good at electrical wiring and vinyl 
interior work.

Jerry 

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Apr 15 23:08:58 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 05:08:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?windshield_glazing?=
Message-ID: <20090416050858.16726.qmail@server278.com>

john, i recently ran into the same problem with my bn6 windshield.  the rubber seal was about .080 and the old rubber was about .055.   i went to a window shop that replaced winshields and they sold me some rubber/cork looking stuff with a cloth looking backing for about 5 bucks that worked perfect.  i measured it at about .052.  hjim

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 15 23:47:29 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 22:47:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <004401c9be43$e37cc120$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <20090415194255.M1HVG.778000.imail@eastrmwml44>
	<004401c9be43$e37cc120$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090415224301.01feaa58@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Oh... Like a Healey - High Maintenance?

Jerry, I love this list the comments and responses can be so funny 
and entertaining at the same time!

John

At 08:31 PM 4/15/2009 -0700, Jerry Costanzo wrote:
>Keith,
>
>Upkeep is very high.  I also have been told by her that I can't 
>afford to lose her.  Besides,  she is darn good at electrical wiring 
>and vinyl interior work.
>
>Jerry ____

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Apr 16 01:47:12 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 09:47:12 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] hotel in Paris
In-Reply-To: <173126440904151539l4dfd2e35u8170f54618af63d5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904151539l4dfd2e35u8170f54618af63d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500574599A@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

I can recommend the Hotel Victor Hugo in Paris, see

 http://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/victorhugo.html?aid=311092&label=hotel-21343
8-fr-RDNQYEt6FwBPDpaEp3u9SwS3189858474&sid=3e4c2dc1d12d3741bedf283e397f3b30&l
ang=en&selected_currency=hotel_currency

But to say, last time I was in Paris and stayed there was 5 years ago.

For Cologne
I already mentioned the "Meilenwerk" in Dusseldorf.
 http://www.meilenwerk.de/Meilenwerk_Duesseldorf_index.php
For racers the "Nurburgring Race Track" and Racing Museum might be interesting
http://www.nuerburgring.de/home.324.0.html also Spa Racetrack and Museum
http://www.spa-francorchamps.be/en07/home/index.php.
A bit at the far end of a 3 hour drive distance is the Car and Aircraft Museum
Sinsheim and Speyer.
http://www.technik-museum.de/museum_sinsheim_english.html

But there is also beautiful landscape half an hour South of Cologne around the
river Rhine valley, the river Mosel valley, the river Ahr valley, the
mountainous area of the Eifel, with lots of castles (Eltz castle
http://www.burg-eltz.de/e_index.html), plenty of whine yards for whine
tasting, boat trips, etc.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von I Erbs
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. April 2009 00:40
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] hotel in Paris

My wife and I will be spending 1 night in Paris in early July. can anyone
suggest a hotel in the under 125 euro price range?
anything other than the obvious tourist stuff I should see?
I will also be in Cologne, Germany for 5 days July 2-6. Anything within a 3
hour drive?
Thanks
We are going to the MG event and Beaulieu, in England july 8-12.
cheers,
--
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Apr 16 05:47:05 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 07:47:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."
Message-ID: <894A4C1A85EB4FACBDE7E24A25DC715A@your4dacd0ea75>

This lady was a caretaker for her elderly mother, who lived until she was
97, dying in 2007.
The song,  "I Dreamed a Dream ", may have been more than  a coincidence.


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ghess4" <ghess4 at cox.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 9:51 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."
>
>
>> He to all the Healey folks,
>> We all tend to judge a book by it's cover sometimes.  This is not about
>> Healeys but it is about a heart warming story of one British Lady who 
>> moved
>> through life with her own grace and quality.
>>
>>
>>
>> Before you watch...
>>
>> She's a homely, heavyset, 47-year old woman who lives alone with her cat.
>>
>> ...was teased mercilessly as a child because an accident at birth left 
>> her
>> sounding mentally disabled.
>>
>> ...admits she has never had a boyfriend, and "has never even been 
>> kissed".
>>
>> And when she watched the tape of her audition said, "Oh my, I look like a
>> garage".
>>
>> Onstage, the chuckles began before she even made it all the way out. The
>> audience openly laughed at her, when she said her dream was "to sing in 
>> front
>> of a large audience, maybe even to be a professional singer"...
>>
>> Simon Cowel could barely contain his dismay when she poked fun at herself 
>> with
>> a bawdy joke about her age and appearance...
>>
>> ...and then she did this:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lp0IWv8QZY

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Apr 16 05:58:16 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 06:58:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] test - please delete
Message-ID: <215363661.1291082.1239883096995.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>

/B5PZfP: Permission denied

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 16 08:17:12 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 07:17:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] hotel in Paris
Message-ID: <118477.18905.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Odeon Hotel - www.odeonhotel.fr.

3 star - great area.

+33-1-43-25-90-67

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 4/15/09, I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] hotel in Paris
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 3:39 PM
> My wife and I will be spending 1
> night in Paris in early July. can anyone
> suggest a hotel in the under 125 euro price range?
> anything other than the obvious tourist stuff I should
> see?
> I will also be in Cologne, Germany for 5 days July 2-6.
> Anything within a 3
> hour drive?
> Thanks
> We are going to the MG event and Beaulieu, in England july
> 8-12.
> cheers,
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 16 13:08:51 2009
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:08:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump pulley color BJ8
Message-ID: <SNT103-W557E7F2103C0113B5A48A2A17A0@phx.gbl>

  A question for the purists....Is the pulley on the BJ8 water pump engine
color or black?
I am replacing my water pump and the old one is engine green with black
pulley, a replacement from the '70's. Just want to put it back the way it was
originally while convenient.  Thanks.....

 WD  67 BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor
age2_042009

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 16 13:29:13 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:29:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump pulley color BJ8
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W557E7F2103C0113B5A48A2A17A0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT103-W557E7F2103C0113B5A48A2A17A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003f01c9bec9$9fc0b3c0$df421b40$@net>

Warren, 

The entire water pump and pulley are all engine colour.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warren Dietz
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 3:09 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump pulley color BJ8

  A question for the purists....Is the pulley on the BJ8 water pump engine
color or black?
I am replacing my water pump and the old one is engine green with black
pulley, a replacement from the '70's. Just want to put it back the way it
was
originally while convenient.  Thanks.....

 WD  67 BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Sto
r
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From info at atteanlodge.com  Thu Apr 16 13:43:38 2009
From: info at atteanlodge.com (mailmaineguide.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:43:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor
Message-ID: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>

List: I just installed a new oil pressure/temp gauge in the healey rebuild.
Even though I have the backing nut firmly tight the sensor itself is still
slightly loose, obviously, the best way to tell if it will leak is to fill the
radiator but I am too much a coward to do it, I need someone to tell me that
it is perfectly normal for the sensor to be loose or am I missing something???
Many thanks.

Brad Holden
67 BJ8 soon to be running (I hope)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Apr 16 14:20:53 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:20:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor
In-Reply-To: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>
Message-ID: <1521804642.2482411239913253099.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Brad, 

Not sure what you mean, exactly, but the 'sensor' is a bulb filled with ether which pressurizes a bourdon tube in the gauge. You need a good seal around the capillary tube that comes out of the nut/plug that holds it in the head. 



Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mailmaineguide.com" <info at atteanlodge.com> 
To: Healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 12:43:38 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor 

List: I just installed a new oil pressure/temp gauge in the healey rebuild. 
Even though I have the backing nut firmly tight the sensor itself is still 
slightly loose, obviously, the best way to tell if it will leak is to fill the 
radiator but I am too much a coward to do it, I need someone to tell me that 
it is perfectly normal for the sensor to be loose or am I missing something??? 
Many thanks. 

Brad Holden 
67 BJ8 soon to be running (I hope) 
_______________________________________________ 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 16 15:20:37 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 23:20:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor
In-Reply-To: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>
References: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>
Message-ID: <49E7A125.1070308@chello.nl>

It should be tight. Try using a fibre or copper washer .
Kees Oudesluijs

mailmaineguide.com schreef:
> List: I just installed a new oil pressure/temp gauge in the healey rebuild.
> Even though I have the backing nut firmly tight the sensor itself is still
> slightly loose, obviously, the best way to tell if it will leak is to fill the
> radiator but I am too much a coward to do it, I need someone to tell me that
> it is perfectly normal for the sensor to be loose or am I missing something???
> Many thanks.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8 soon to be running (I hope)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.58/2061 - Release Date: 04/15/09 19:52:00

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Thu Apr 16 15:33:21 2009
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 17:33:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!
Message-ID: <6183DD5E305A42CDAA48E367AA712765@universal1>

    If you go to google-maps you can likely find a photograph of your house -
whether you wanted it posted on-line or not!

    There are links that you can follow that allow you to contact google to
have the photo removed. I've done this successfully.

    Nothing like a burglar sitting at his computer casing your neighborhood!!

    Just thought some would like to know, regards,

                                                                    CB

From britcrs at gmail.com  Thu Apr 16 16:23:46 2009
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:23:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!
In-Reply-To: <6183DD5E305A42CDAA48E367AA712765@universal1>
References: <6183DD5E305A42CDAA48E367AA712765@universal1>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0904161523l299e624aqcd5044ebeef3fa68@mail.gmail.com>

There are numerous sites in addition to Google that provide the same
service. For my house, Yahoo Maps has a lot better resolution than Google. I
really don't think these would be of much use to a burglar since they are
far from real time.
Marv J

On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 2:33 PM, Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net> wrote:

>    If you go to google-maps you can likely find a photograph of your house
> -
> whether you wanted it posted on-line or not!
>
>    There are links that you can follow that allow you to contact google to
> have the photo removed. I've done this successfully.
>
>    Nothing like a burglar sitting at his computer casing your
> neighborhood!!
>
>    Just thought some would like to know, regards,
>
>                                                                    CB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Apr 16 16:34:24 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 18:34:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!
In-Reply-To: <6183DD5E305A42CDAA48E367AA712765@universal1>
References: <6183DD5E305A42CDAA48E367AA712765@universal1>
Message-ID: <003c01c9bee3$7f0b2420$7d216c60$@rr.com>

The photo of my house is one from quite a few years ago.  If I were a
burglar, I think I would just get in my car and cruise around to get a more
updated idea of the situation.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666	
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charley Braum
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 5:33 PM
To: Spridgets List; Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!

    If you go to google-maps you can likely find a photograph of your house
-
whether you wanted it posted on-line or not!

    There are links that you can follow that allow you to contact google to
have the photo removed. I've done this successfully.

    Nothing like a burglar sitting at his computer casing your
neighborhood!!

    Just thought some would like to know, regards,

                                                                    CB
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 16 20:52:56 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 19:52:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."
In-Reply-To: <128B8AFA79ED47CFA650204E7C9F8645@GalePC>
References: <128B8AFA79ED47CFA650204E7C9F8645@GalePC>
Message-ID: <E1EC46A4C6904E698131DE48878862DC@LeonardPCPC>

The same thing happened in 2007 when Paul Potts won the first year of 
"Britain's Got Talent".  In a rumpled suit and with not so straight teeth, 
he wowed the judges and all of Britain with his tenor voice.  His 
performances are also available on YouTube.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ghess4" <ghess4 at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Talk about "Not judging a book..."


> He to all the Healey folks,
> We all tend to judge a book by it's cover sometimes.  This is not about
> Healeys but it is about a heart warming story of one British Lady who 
> moved
> through life with her own grace and quality.

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 16 21:41:33 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 23:41:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY 4-18-09
Message-ID: <14697109.1239939693856.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY
          SATURDAY, APRIL 18, 2009

          MILTONbS DELI RESTAURANT
        FLOWER HILL SHOPPING, DEL MAR
       (east of Via de la Valle turn off,
        just North of Del Mar Racetrack)

        MEET AT 9:00 (OR EARLIER!!!!!)
 For tyre-kickinb, lie-tellin' and socializin'

         bPEDAL-TO-THE-MEDALb AT 10:00

If you want to have a full, sit-down breakfast at
Miltonbs, allow an extra hour.  Miltonbs, and several
other places, do have bwalkbupb munchies, coffee, etc.
Or bring your own

A PICNIC LUNCH IS A MUST!!!!!

DUST OFF THOSE PICNIC RECIPES AND YOUR BEST
PICNIC BASKETWE WILL BE HAVING OUR PICNIC AT
SAN DIEGUITO PARK

WE WILL BE ASKING FOR A $5.00 DONATIONb
 $3.00 IS THE PARK FEE FOR PARKING (per car);
 $2.00 TO HELP OFFSET THE RESERVATION FEE

NO RULES  * NO TROPHIES  * NO JUDGING
NO TRAILER QUEENS    *   NO APPLICATONs

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Jaguar - John Fitch at Watkins Glen (Seneca Cup).jpg]

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 16 21:55:56 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:55:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!
Message-ID: <793984.93477.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tell us the links path ....

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 4/16/09, Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Charley Braum <cbaustin at verizon.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] ABSOLUTELY NO LBC!!
> To: "Spridgets List" <spridgets at autox.team.net>, "Healey List"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, April 16, 2009, 2:33 PM
>     If you go to
> google-maps you can likely find a photograph of your house
> -
> whether you wanted it posted on-line or not!
>
>     There are links that you can follow that
> allow you to contact google to
> have the photo removed. I've done this successfully.
>
>     Nothing like a burglar sitting at his
> computer casing your neighborhood!!
>
>     Just thought some would like to know,
> regards,
>
>                
>                
>                
>                
>     CB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ourxke at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 16 22:24:04 2009
From: ourxke at hotmail.com (Ken Wignall)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 00:24:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for tri carb set up
Message-ID: <COL108-W68B6D9C5A3202208E70AEAD17B0@phx.gbl>

A friend needs a complete tri-carb set up for his 1962 BT7 project. This
includes  the 3 HS4 carbs, intake and exhaust manifolds, linkages and
complete choke assembly. He needs it all. Can anyone help him out?
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox.
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tes2_042009

From krtaylor at exemail.com.au  Thu Apr 16 23:13:22 2009
From: krtaylor at exemail.com.au (Keith Taylor)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 15:13:22 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Friday in OZ
Message-ID: <26FAA83431AF48A99CAD32C7EADF6507@keith>

"The Old Golfer"

A circus owner runs an ad for a lion tamer and two people show up. One is a
good-looking, older retired golfer in his late sixties and the other is a
gorgeous blonde in her mid-twenties.

The circus owner tells them, "I'm not going to sugar coat it. This is one
ferocious lion. He ate my last tamer so you two had better be good or you're
history. Here's your equipment - a chair, a whip and a gun. Who wants to
try-out first?"

The girl says, "I'll go first."  She walks past the chair, the whip and the
gun and steps right into the lion's cage. The lion starts to snarl and pant
and begins to charge her. About halfway there, she throws open her coat
revealing her beautiful naked body.

The lion stops dead in his tracks, sheepishly crawls up to her and starts
licking her feet and ankles.  He continues to lick and kiss her entire body
for several minutes and then rests his head at her feet.

The circus owner's jaw is on the floor.  He says, "I've never seen a display
like that in my life." He then turns to the retired golfer and asks, "Can you
top that?"

The tough old golfer replies, "No problem, just get that lion out of the
way."




Keith Taylor

Wamberal OZ

BN1

BN2

100M......If I ever finish them

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of IMAGE.BMP]

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr 17 00:20:40 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 08:20:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor
In-Reply-To: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>
References: <EE011E3FAF4F4F25B9126245CF65FF77@PC1>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904162320kbb7a307x2cdc214294dff3ec@mail.gmail.com>

Brad - the sensor should not be loose.  I used a hot water seal washer
from the hardware/plumbers and coated it liberally with permatex
copper, then bolted it in the motor.  It hasn't leaked in 20 years.

On 4/16/09, mailmaineguide.com <info at atteanlodge.com> wrote:
> List: I just installed a new oil pressure/temp gauge in the healey rebuild.
> Even though I have the backing nut firmly tight the sensor itself is still
> slightly loose, obviously, the best way to tell if it will leak is to fill
> the
> radiator but I am too much a coward to do it, I need someone to tell me that
> it is perfectly normal for the sensor to be loose or am I missing
> something???
> Many thanks.
>
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8 soon to be running (I hope)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 17 02:55:04 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 01:55:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch M/C Bore Size?
Message-ID: <577683.89558.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Could someone tell me the size of the bore of the clutch master cylinder on a BJ7?

Thanks,
Rick

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Apr 17 06:16:54 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 05:16:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor
In-Reply-To: <1521804642.2482411239913253099.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E1FB152A2CC74AA3BFFF7A8C05753AA9@TRACY>

Bob,

I think your describing your still.  Good to hear grandpa's recipe is still
alive and well.

Tracy

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 1:21 PM
To: mailmaineguide.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor

Brad,

Not sure what you mean, exactly, but the 'sensor' is a bulb filled with
ether which pressurizes a bourdon tube in the gauge. You need a good seal
around the capillary tube that comes out of the nut/plug that holds it in
the head.



Bob



----- Original Message -----
From: "mailmaineguide.com" <info at atteanlodge.com>
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 12:43:38 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Healeys] coolant temp sensor

List: I just installed a new oil pressure/temp gauge in the healey rebuild.
Even though I have the backing nut firmly tight the sensor itself is still
slightly loose, obviously, the best way to tell if it will leak is to fill
the
radiator but I am too much a coward to do it, I need someone to tell me that

it is perfectly normal for the sensor to be loose or am I missing
something???
Many thanks.

Brad Holden
67 BJ8 soon to be running (I hope)
_______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Apr 17 07:22:51 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch M/C Bore Size?
In-Reply-To: <577683.89558.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <577683.89558.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008101c9bf5f$9c2bbc00$d4833400$@net>

The clutch (and brake) master cylinder for a BJ7 should be 5/8" bore.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 4:55 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch M/C Bore Size?

Could someone tell me the size of the bore of the clutch master cylinder on
a BJ7?

Thanks,
Rick
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Apr 17 07:39:58 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 06:39:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop rally vent interior treatment
Message-ID: <6545978357C04A158A3A63F7758B529A@TRACY>

I have my hardtop restored and have my rally vent,

 

What was done to the headliner on the inside with the vent installed?

 

I was thinking I would go ahead and cut out the hole in the liner for the
vent, make a surround and fold back and glue the headliner.

 

Then I was going to make a beauty ring (similar to a MGB shifter lever
surround) for finishing the inside.   The vent will mount on the outside.

 

Any experience here would be welcome.  I intend to get this done before the
cold weather Snowball Rally next week.  All that is left is the headliner,
vent, window and windlace etc.

 

Just scratching my head about the finishing of the vent inside.

 

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From Warthodson at aol.com  Fri Apr 17 07:50:42 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:50:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
Message-ID: <d38.48344180.3719e332@aol.com>

The parts were bead blasted & examined before being repainted. I  know it 
is hard to believe, but mine do not have any RH/LH stamping on the  bracket 
that bolts to the engine. The four bolt holes are not round. They are  
rectangles which allows for some adjustment. The rectangles are "original" to  the 
piece, not something home made. Has anyone run into this before?
Gary Hodson
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/15/2009 6:03:38 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
msalter at precisionsportscar.com writes:

They are  different Gary, and if you were to bead blast them you would find 
an LH on one  and a RH on the other.. 


**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
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From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Fri Apr 17 08:09:04 2009
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:09:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop rally vent interior treatment
Message-ID: <22746170.1239977344536.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Tracy,

I restored my BN7 hardtop 2 years ago finishing just before Conclave in Vermont.  As you know it is really difficult to restore these hardtops.  After removing all the trim, the fiberglass wants to resort back to a flatter state and is a challenge to get all the trim back on without scratching or gouging the newly painted shell.  Fortunately, I had plenty of help from our local experts, Sam and Cyndi Marble.  After many hours (20+) and choice words, we were finished with the reassembly and install on the BN7.

Note: before you do any cutting of the top or headliner, temporarily install the headliner frame.  The approximate position may interfere with the left to right cross member of the frame.  I can give you some dims and pics after I go home for lunch in a couple hours.  I will sent those direct and off line.

Once cut, the headliner suspends about 1" below the inside of the top shell.  I made a bezel of packing foam and covered it with the same material for the headliner.  It is light and looks great!  It kind of acts as a gasket or washer between the top shell and bezel holding the headliner tight in place.

Did you vent not come with the interior trim piece or beauty ring as you call it? Mine did and I  painted mine the same satin silver as the uprights in the rear window.  

I installed all of the above with stainless phillips head screws with acorn nuts inside.

Back to you soon.

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA
1959 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey

-----Original Message-----
>From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
>Sent: Apr 17, 2009 9:39 AM
>To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop rally vent interior treatment
>
>I have my hardtop restored and have my rally vent,
>
> 
>
>What was done to the headliner on the inside with the vent installed?
>
> 
>
>I was thinking I would go ahead and cut out the hole in the liner for the
>vent, make a surround and fold back and glue the headliner.
>
> 
>
>Then I was going to make a beauty ring (similar to a MGB shifter lever
>surround) for finishing the inside.   The vent will mount on the outside.
>
> 
>
>Any experience here would be welcome.  I intend to get this done before the
>cold weather Snowball Rally next week.  All that is left is the headliner,
>vent, window and windlace etc.
>
> 
>
>Just scratching my head about the finishing of the vent inside.
>
> 
>
>Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
>President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From f9cougar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 17 10:13:32 2009
From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:13:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
Message-ID: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Interesting semi-thread. Being a high school teacher, I'm peopled-out at the
end of the day, so I treasure introspective alone time when I work on my
Healey. When more hands are beneficial, wife or kids are good helpers. When I
was restoring my BN6, my daughter was 10 years old. Her little hands were
especially helpful. - JRC
 
 
 
--- On Wed, 4/15/09, John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org> wrote:


From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 2:40 PM


I agree.  I just finished helping my wife cover the AL bow on the BJ8
project; she is much better
at that than I.  She was invaluable in doing the seats, and has helped
with many other tasks, that
took more than two hands, not to mention the tolerance of all the costs.

John
66BJ8
64BJ8 in progress

Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> All this talk about wives made me wonder.  My wife has been the one that
> purchased 2 of my 3 cars.  She got better deals than I did.  We restored
them
> as a team.  What I don't understand is how you get some of the projects
done
> without a helper.  That extra set of hands is essential.  As an example: we
> just finished the rear seat back on a BJ8.  I don't know how to do it by
> yourself.  There was lots of pulling and staples which required extra
hands.
> I find lots of projects that require an extra set of hands.
>
> How do you guys get the job done?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> TR3A
> BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From MackieS at bsd405.org  Fri Apr 17 10:35:20 2009
From: MackieS at bsd405.org (Mackie, Stephen)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:35:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <041EA7279B814D4FA9189619638A8AD801B2630E@PEACH.it.bsd405.org>

My first car was an 1967 Austin Healey Sprite Mark IV. Forty years later
I still have and enjoy it. It is a part of me now. Last year I acquired
a 1962 Austin Healey 3000 Tricarb and with the help of friends and my 11
year old daughter managed to get it started. It's a great car. She loves
both of the cars and helps me fix and maintain them. I wish my 15 year
old son was as enthusiastic. Her small hands and good eyes have also
been especially useful.
Steve Mackie
Seattle WA..

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john close
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 9:14 AM
To: John Vrugtman; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?

Interesting semi-thread. Being a high school teacher, I'm peopled-out at
the end of the day, so I treasure introspective alone time when I work
on my Healey. When more hands are beneficial, wife or kids are good
helpers. When I was restoring my BN6, my daughter was 10 years old. Her
little hands were especially helpful. - JRC



--- On Wed, 4/15/09, John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org> wrote:


From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
Cc: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 2:40 PM


I agree.  I just finished helping my wife cover the AL bow on the BJ8
project; she is much better at that than I.  She was invaluable in doing
the seats, and has helped with many other tasks, that took more than two
hands, not to mention the tolerance of all the costs.

John
66BJ8
64BJ8 in progress

Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> All this talk about wives made me wonder.  My wife has been the one
> that purchased 2 of my 3 cars.  She got better deals than I did.  We
> restored
them
> as a team.  What I don't understand is how you get some of the
> projects
done
> without a helper.  That extra set of hands is essential.  As an
> example: we just finished the rear seat back on a BJ8.  I don't know
> how to do it by yourself.  There was lots of pulling and staples which

> required extra
hands.
> I find lots of projects that require an extra set of hands.
>
> How do you guys get the job done?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> TR3A
> BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as f9cougar at yahoo.com

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From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Fri Apr 17 11:20:37 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:20:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
References: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20090417093700.SM01484@wavecable.net>
Message-ID: <000501c9bf80$d3617b30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

My kids used to help some when they were home.  They do love driving the 
cars to shows, parades, or rallies.  They help out with the clubs car show 
each year and it is nice to see the younger people at the club events and 
shows.  I would have to say that neither has the mechanical desire to make 
it their own hobby.  My wife says she likes the restoration, but not much of 
just fixing once the car is done.  It is nice to have a family hobby.

Jerry
TR3
BN4
BJ8 in progress 

From ricksnover at earthlink.net  Fri Apr 17 11:24:01 2009
From: ricksnover at earthlink.net (Rick Snover)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:24:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY 4-18-09
In-Reply-To: <14697109.1239939693856.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.
	earthlink.net>
References: <14697109.1239939693856.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E1LurnG-0004cF-CQ@elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Complete details on SD RBCD are available at http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

I'm not a member of the other lists that Rich posted to (mgs, british-cars at autox.team.net and british-cars-pre-war), so if anybody else is, please forward this.

Join the San Diego British Car Club Council's new Yahoo! Group, SDBCCC-News, for news and announcements about British car events in the San Diego area:
        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SDBCCC-News/join

At 08:41 PM 4/16/2009, rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote:
>14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY
>          SATURDAY, APRIL 18, 2009
>          MILTON'S DELI RESTAURANT
>        FLOWER HILL SHOPPING, DEL MAR
>       (east of Via de la Valle turn off,
>        just North of Del Mar Racetrack)
>        MEET AT 9:00 (OR EARLIER!!!!!) 
> For tyre-kickin', lie-tellin' and socializin'
>         'PEDAL-TO-THE-METAL' AT 10:00
>If you want to have a full, sit-down breakfast at Milton's, allow an extra hour.  Milton's, and several
>other places, do have 'walk-up' munchies, coffee, etc. Or bring your own
>A PICNIC LUNCH IS A MUST!!!!!
>DUST OFF THOSE PICNIC RECIPES AND YOUR BEST PICNIC BASKETWE WILL BE HAVING OUR PICNIC AT SAN DIEGUITO PARK
>WE WILL BE ASKING FOR A $5.00 DONATION
> $3.00 IS THE PARK FEE FOR PARKING (per car);
> $2.00 TO HELP OFFSET THE RESERVATION FEE
>NO RULES  * NO TROPHIES  * NO JUDGING
>NO TRAILER QUEENS    *   NO APPLICATONs

--
Rick Snover
2nd VP (Membership) & Webmaster
San Diego British Car Club Council
http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Fri Apr 17 11:59:26 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:59:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <000501c9bf80$d3617b30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20090417093700.SM01484@wavecable.net>
	<000501c9bf80$d3617b30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <471534970904171059p6393c198j83d31a434ca8d9b9@mail.gmail.com>

I've been super lucky. I have a few friends that are car guys and we help
each other out. My wife has become interested and is willing if not skilled
yet when it comes to the garage. My 10 year old daughter goes through phases
of wanting to help, not wanting to hel, and we're going to train my 4month
old to start handling spanners soon. :)

Now, that my Mum has a LBC, the crew has expanded to her (and she's a whiz
with a sewing machine) and my bother (who's a carpenter by trade).

So, short of shop space enough to hold us all, we're a total car family. :)

But, I still spend many hours alone in the garage. It's my therapy after a
long day / week at the office. The wife gauges my sanity levels by how
frequently I dissapear out there to "putter around."

Jody

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Apr 17 12:23:43 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 14:23:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands are better than 2 ?
In-Reply-To: <471534970904171059p6393c198j83d31a434ca8d9b9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <932930.7738.qm@web34802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20090417093700.SM01484@wavecable.net>
	<000501c9bf80$d3617b30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<471534970904171059p6393c198j83d31a434ca8d9b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008c01c9bf89$a3c71d90$eb5558b0$@net>

When my son was little, he'd be pretty keen to help work on the Healeys
coming and going in the garage, although I wouldn't let him touch other
people's cars. He'd be into the Healey books and club magazines, etc.
soaking everything up. He'd also listen intently to conversations with car
guys around the garage. A few times, as a budding artist, he'd sit on a
stool in the garage and sketch what was there at the time...the whole scene.
We've luckily saved a few of these and cherish them. 
Anyway, the years went by and all this evolved into his currently working at
Heritage Upholstery in North Vancouver, B.C. In fact if you've had component
pieces built up and trimmed by them in the last few years, he probably built
them.
I sure miss that second set of hands to help here from time to time.

Rich Chrysler

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 17 14:40:44 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:40:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
In-Reply-To: <d38.48344180.3719e332@aol.com>
References: <d38.48344180.3719e332@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W61C3CAA448535E3CABFC9AD57B0@phx.gbl>

Gary



yes the holes are rectangles with rounded corners, if memory serves correct
the LH and RH can not be seen when they are fitted to the engine, I see to
think it was stamped on the side of the angled bit that faces the engine. I
think the larger part that bolts to the frame is not handed, might be
completely wrong thou!



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place  Learn more!
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr 17 14:48:51 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:48:51 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hub bolt insert procedure - Late BN1 to BJ8
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904171348r2f586d4ar1cc83004fff1ac35@mail.gmail.com>

All -

I am trying to insert the special hub bolts in the 5 bolt hub on the
rear axle and I can't seem to do it without damaging the splines on
the shoulder of the bolt.

Is there a tried and tested procedure for getting these bolts in the
hub without damaging them?

Its probably been covered before but I really want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks,

Alan

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 17 15:27:01 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 21:27:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Hub bolt insert procedure - Late BN1 to BJ8
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904171348r2f586d4ar1cc83004fff1ac35@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0904171348r2f586d4ar1cc83004fff1ac35@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W67E755931B652D13A14F30D57B0@phx.gbl>

Alan



People seem to be having problems with the size of these, but assuming they
are the right bolts it should be easy to just squeeze them in using a vice and
a suitable sized socket on the other side, the bolt head then squeezes against
the socket on the other side of the hub, just make sure the bolt can pass thru
the inside of the socket:



http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=5132641



It just takes a steady pressure, but souldnt be that hard.





cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free.
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From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Fri Apr 17 15:45:31 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 14:45:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1953 Austin A40 Sport by Jensen - $9500
Message-ID: <C60E468B.177E%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

Spotted this today in Victoria, B.C.

No personal interest.


http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1073399554.html

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 17 18:06:38 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:06:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hub bolt insert procedure - Late BN1 to BJ8
References: <ff59076c0904171348r2f586d4ar1cc83004fff1ac35@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701c9bfb9$8c1d1160$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Not sure if this holds true for rear hubs but I just sent this question to 
the list on my BT7 front hubs.
Rather than bore you with everything that I tried to get the old studs to 
work in the new hubs
this is what I found.

There was a slip of paper in the other front hub stating that Moss now sells 
BJ8 hubs for all big Healeys.
The old serrated studs are no longer used. They won't fit, Dah.     Hardened 
grade bolts with lock nuts are now suppose to be used.

Sure wish they put the slip of paper in both hubs.

And now you know,   Could this be the same for the rears Alan?

FWIW,  After banging and heating my front hub,   I was able to get my studs 
in , but they were not all perfectly straight so
I removed all of them and am now using the hardened bolts as Moss suggests. 
I found an article later,  that suggested having a machine
shop press serrated studs into the hubs to eliminate the banging action.

Still learning after all these years,

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 4:48 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Hub bolt insert procedure - Late BN1 to BJ8


> All -
>
> I am trying to insert the special hub bolts in the 5 bolt hub on the
> rear axle and I can't seem to do it without damaging the splines on
> the shoulder of the bolt.
>
> Is there a tried and tested procedure for getting these bolts in the
> hub without damaging them?
>
> Its probably been covered before but I really want to make sure I do it 
> right.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Apr 17 22:19:41 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 21:19:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations
In-Reply-To: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <662985.90993.qm@web81802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0C9090BB443144DFAB7A9983B9B3A2F3@LeonardPCPC>

I just got this back from my son who is in the automobile paint supply 
business:

The gun mentioned is what is classified as a Reduced Pressure Gun and if the
Air Quality District that one resides in allows the use of such gun, this
would be my first choice, second would be an HVLP gun

Base your gun choice on your CFM supply of the compressor

Next choice would concern fluid nozzle and needle combination....

Make sure it matches up with the product you are going to spray

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spray Gun recommendations


>I am looking at the DeVilBiss GFG-670 Plus gravity feed gun. It is not an 
>HPLV spary gun.
>
> The literature states that "This high efficiency gravity fed gun has 
> powerful atomization, and
> twice the energy available than in HVLP guns! The PLUS was designed for
> high quality production painting and it wastes less paint than standard
> HVLPs."
>
> Does anyone have experience with this spray gun? Any other 
> recommendations?
>
> The primary use would be to spray primer and finish parts.
>
> My compressor delivers 8.6 CMF at 40 PSI and 6.4 CFM at 90 PSI.
>
> Thank you,
> John
> _______________________________________________

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Apr 17 22:49:16 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 21:49:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
Message-ID: <93436C5F5DA64F64A170D8FCB6D439F2@LeonardPCPC>

EPA Takes First Step Toward Regulating Pollution Linked to Climate Change
The Environmental Protection Agency concludes that carbon dioxide and five
other greenhouse gases are a danger to public health.

How good are you at reading between the lines?  With the following (partial)
announcement, I will expect someone in California to again try to get all
exempt cars back into the SMOG check program in an attempt to get all older
cars off  the road.  If California succeeds, then the other states that follow
California's lead will do the same.  If it becomes federal legislation, it
could affect EVERY state:
WASHINGTON -- The debate on global warming is set to heat up again with the
Obama administration's release on Friday of an EPA proposed finding that
carbon dioxide and five other greenhouse gases are a danger to public health
and welfare.

The finding is the first step to regulating pollution linked to climate
change.

The agency said, "in both magnitude and probability, climate change is an
enormous problem" and that the greenhouse gases listed "endanger public health
and welfare within the meaning of the Clean Air Act."

The EPA concluded that the science pointing to man-made pollution as a cause
of global warming is "compelling and overwhelming." It also said tailpipe
emissions from motor vehicles contribute to climate change.

"The president has made clear his strong preference that Congress act to pass
comprehensive legislation rather than address the climate challenge through
administrative action," said White House spokesman Ben LaBolt.

Boxer responded that if Congress "does not act to pass legislation, then I
will call on EPA to take all steps authorized by law to protect our
families."

In addition to carbon dioxide, a product of burning fossil fuels, the EPA
finding covers five other emissions that scientists believe are warming the
earth when they concentrate in the atmosphere: Methane (CH4), nitrous oxide
(N2O), hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs), perfluorocarbons (PFCs), and sulfur
hexafluoride (SF6).



We must keep an eye on all bills submitted by our legislators.  I repeat from
previous e-mail on this subject,  "The price of freedom is eternal vigilance."
( Thomas Jefferson )

      (The Other) Len
      Vacaville, CA, USA
      1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Apr 18 05:08:59 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 07:08:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
Message-ID: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>

I know that Jefferson was a very innovative fellow but I didn't know he had 
 email!
 
Best--Michael Oritt
------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 4/18/2009 12:49:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
thehartnetts at earthlink.net writes:

I repeat  from previous e-mail on this subject,  "The price of freedom is 
eternal  vigilance."
( Thomas Jefferson  )


**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Apr 18 06:36:39 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 07:36:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>

While it is a well know fact* that Al Gore invented the internet, it is less 
well known that Jefferson invented e-mail.

On a more serious note a short while back when I wasn't sure where my career 
was going I considered trying to start up a national assoction of car clubs 
and perhaps the big players who make money off our hobby--not just healeys 
or british, but classic cars in general, to actively try to protect our 
hobby from any government action negatively affecting the hobby at the 
federal and local level.

We have a case that I think plays pretty well if you get the message out, 
facts and figures on the size of the industry as a whole, whats more 
American than a guy working on his car on Saturday morning?, charity work 
the various clubs do, group is mainly made of "model citizens" from a 
politicians perspective, middle age middle class people with some disposable 
income who vote.  There are probably as many or more "car people" as there 
are "gun people" and look at the clout the NRA has.

If in fact Len is right and a serious threat to our hobby arises such a 
unified organization will be sorely needed to protect our cars and 
interests, I am not sure if he is right, but the possibility exists.

As I said I was thinking about it, and have somewhat of the background for 
it, but my prospects have stabilized so don't think it will be me, but maybe 
the kernel of the idea will get planted and someone will run with it.  Sort 
of a timing issue there as well, as the likelihood of such an active broad 
organization increases as we get closer to the possibility of legislation 
affecting our cars, but ideally the organization would get up and running 
early to attempt to nip goverment action negatively affecting our cars and 
getting politician's ears early on.

Greg Lemon

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Apr 18 06:39:54 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 07:39:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
Message-ID: <F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>

oops, I forgot to finish my asterisk *snopes says no, Al Gore never said 
that, but used here and elsewhere for enterntainment purposes--to nip that 
side conversation in the bud...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo at aol.com>; <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step


> While it is a well know fact* that Al Gore invented the internet, it is 
> less well known that Jefferson invented e-mail.
>
> On a more serious note a short while back when I wasn't sure where my 
> career was going I considered trying to start up a national assoction of 
> car clubs and perhaps the big players who make money off our hobby--not 
> just healeys or british, but classic cars in general, to actively try to 
> protect our hobby from any government action negatively affecting the 
> hobby at the federal and local level.
>
> We have a case that I think plays pretty well if you get the message out, 
> facts and figures on the size of the industry as a whole, whats more 
> American than a guy working on his car on Saturday morning?, charity work 
> the various clubs do, group is mainly made of "model citizens" from a 
> politicians perspective, middle age middle class people with some 
> disposable income who vote.  There are probably as many or more "car 
> people" as there are "gun people" and look at the clout the NRA has.
>
> If in fact Len is right and a serious threat to our hobby arises such a 
> unified organization will be sorely needed to protect our cars and 
> interests, I am not sure if he is right, but the possibility exists.
>
> As I said I was thinking about it, and have somewhat of the background for 
> it, but my prospects have stabilized so don't think it will be me, but 
> maybe the kernel of the idea will get planted and someone will run with 
> it.  Sort of a timing issue there as well, as the likelihood of such an 
> active broad organization increases as we get closer to the possibility of 
> legislation affecting our cars, but ideally the organization would get up 
> and running early to attempt to nip goverment action negatively affecting 
> our cars and getting politician's ears early on.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 18 07:36:29 2009
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 06:36:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
Message-ID: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Greg,

I think SEMA SAN is pretty similar: 
http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?ID=/content/SEMASANcom/HomePage

Rick

--- On Sat, 4/18/09, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
To: Awgertoo at aol.com, thehartnetts at earthlink.net, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, April 18, 2009, 8:36 AM

While it is a well know fact* that Al Gore invented the internet, it is less
well known that Jefferson invented e-mail.

On a more serious note a short while back when I wasn't sure where my
career was going I considered trying to start up a national assoction of car
clubs and perhaps the big players who make money off our hobby--not just
healeys
or british, but classic cars in general, to actively try to protect our hobby
from any government action negatively affecting the hobby at the federal and
local level.

We have a case that I think plays pretty well if you get the message out,
facts
and figures on the size of the industry as a whole, whats more American than
a
guy working on his car on Saturday morning?, charity work the various clubs
do,
group is mainly made of "model citizens" from a politicians
perspective, middle age middle class people with some disposable income who
vote.  There are probably as many or more "car people" as there are
"gun people" and look at the clout the NRA has.

If in fact Len is right and a serious threat to our hobby arises such a
unified
organization will be sorely needed to protect our cars and interests, I am
not
sure if he is right, but the possibility exists.

As I said I was thinking about it, and have somewhat of the background for
it,
but my prospects have stabilized so don't think it will be me, but maybe the
kernel of the idea will get planted and someone will run with it.  Sort of a
timing issue there as well, as the likelihood of such an active broad
organization increases as we get closer to the possibility of legislation
affecting our cars, but ideally the organization would get up and running
early
to attempt to nip goverment action negatively affecting our cars and getting
politician's ears early on.

Greg Lemon
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Apr 18 07:40:39 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 06:40:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>

Before everybody hits the panic button, you might want to look at the six
gasses they are talking about.
Carbon Dioxide is actually lower on an old car than it is on a new car.
Back in the day cars spewed out very high carbon monoxide emissions, and
therefore have very low carbon dioxide emissions.  The Cat converter on a
modern car converts the carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. As far as global
warming goes my old LBC is greener than a 2009 model car.  Of course you
would not want to start an old LBC in an enclosed garage.  :-)
So you have a paradox.  Bad for smog = good for global warming.  Good for
smog = bqd for global warming.  So I guess the question becomes, do you want
to breathe, or use SPF 30,000 sunblock?
The other five gases listed are not used in automobiles (with the possible
exception of nitrous)

While I agree we need to ep our eyes open, I am not yet ready to freak out
over this.

Rick

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Apr 18 09:16:58 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 10:16:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>

Rick, I was aware of SEMA, didn't know about SEMA SAN---yes, that looks to be
pretty much the idea I had in mind, guess the wheel has already been invented
and built, so propably no sense re-inventing it--Richard I did put my response
in terms of IF such a threat arises or looks like it will, I do not know if
what is going on now rises to that level, or will lead to anything of concern
to the hobby, but if it does the hobby, not just the Healey world, would need
a strong unified voice to fight it.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Apr 18 09:41:17 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 17:41:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>

As older cars generaly use more fuel the CO2 emissions are higher than 
in modern cars. You are confusing CO2 with NOx. If CO is high NOx may be 
low and v.v., although it is an approximation.
The catalist reduces the emissions of smelly hydrocarbons )unburned 
fuel), and no odour, poisonous CO, carbonmonoxide, turning it into H2O, 
water, and CO2, carbondioxide, which an asphixiate in much higher than 
natural concentrations.
The CO in the atmosphere is turned into CO2 by green plants and algae, 
so although potentially unpleasant it has little effect in open space. 
Very unpleasant are the hydrocarbons and NOx, they can be the cause of 
smog and ozone with low winds, sunshine and high temperatures in 
enclosed cities.
Kees Oudesluijs


Richard Ewald schreef:
> Before everybody hits the panic button, you might want to look at the six
> gasses they are talking about.
> Carbon Dioxide is actually lower on an old car than it is on a new car.
> Back in the day cars spewed out very high carbon monoxide emissions, and
> therefore have very low carbon dioxide emissions.  The Cat converter on a
> modern car converts the carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. As far as global
> warming goes my old LBC is greener than a 2009 model car.  Of course you
> would not want to start an old LBC in an enclosed garage.  :-)
> So you have a paradox.  Bad for smog = good for global warming.  Good for
> smog = bqd for global warming.  So I guess the question becomes, do you want
> to breathe, or use SPF 30,000 sunblock?
> The other five gases listed are not used in automobiles (with the possible
> exception of nitrous)
>
> While I agree we need to ep our eyes open, I am not yet ready to freak out
> over this.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.0/2065 - Release Date: 04/17/09 17:52:00

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 09:44:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 08:44:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
Message-ID: <49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net>

Just be glad you don't live here:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/18/MNLE174GD5.DTL&tsp=1


Greg Lemon wrote:
> Rick, I was aware of SEMA, didn't know about SEMA SAN---yes, that looks to be
> pretty much the idea I had in mind, guess the wheel has already been invented
> and built, so propably no sense re-inventing it--Richard I did put my response
> in terms of IF such a threat arises or looks like it will, I do not know if
> what is going on now rises to that level, or will lead to anything of concern
> to the hobby, but if it does the hobby, not just the Healey world, would need
> a strong unified voice to fight it.

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 18 10:07:12 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 12:07:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
	<49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>

And what is going to keep the greenhouse gasses from crossing the border
into Berkeley from neighboring towns which are contiguous -- Emeryville,
Oakland, etc. Perhaps a glass bubble over Berkeley sealing them out?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 11:45 AM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step

Just be glad you don't live here:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/18/MNLE174GD5.DTL&t
sp=1


Greg Lemon wrote:
> Rick, I was aware of SEMA, didn't know about SEMA SAN---yes, that looks to
be
> pretty much the idea I had in mind, guess the wheel has already been
invented
> and built, so propably no sense re-inventing it--Richard I did put my
response
> in terms of IF such a threat arises or looks like it will, I do not know
if
> what is going on now rises to that level, or will lead to anything of
concern
> to the hobby, but if it does the hobby, not just the Healey world, would
need
> a strong unified voice to fight it.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 10:28:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 09:28:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
	<49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net> <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>
Message-ID: <49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net>

Guess you never been to Berzerkely ... rational thought need not apply.


bs


John Sims wrote:
> And what is going to keep the greenhouse gasses from crossing the border
> into Berkeley from neighboring towns which are contiguous -- Emeryville,
> Oakland, etc. Perhaps a glass bubble over Berkeley sealing them out?
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 11:45 AM
> To: Greg Lemon
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
> 
> Just be glad you don't live here:
> 
> http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/18/MNLE174GD5.DTL&t
> sp=1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Apr 18 10:32:29 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:32:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904180932k3ad70b0fp61bb2c529b6ef397@mail.gmail.com>

Kees - assuming these old cars use more fuel is a misguided stereotype
- a sprite will get 40++ mpg and a BN1 / BN2 will get 25+ mpg.  Even
the BN1 gets better mileage than the average passenger car based on US
EPA statistics, and those figures are usually inflated by 15%.

On 4/18/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> As older cars generaly use more fuel the CO2 emissions are higher than
> in modern cars. You are confusing CO2 with NOx. If CO is high NOx may be
> low and v.v., although it is an approximation.
> The catalist reduces the emissions of smelly hydrocarbons )unburned
> fuel), and no odour, poisonous CO, carbonmonoxide, turning it into H2O,
> water, and CO2, carbondioxide, which an asphixiate in much higher than
> natural concentrations.
> The CO in the atmosphere is turned into CO2 by green plants and algae,
> so although potentially unpleasant it has little effect in open space.
> Very unpleasant are the hydrocarbons and NOx, they can be the cause of
> smog and ozone with low winds, sunshine and high temperatures in
> enclosed cities.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Richard Ewald schreef:
>> Before everybody hits the panic button, you might want to look at the six
>> gasses they are talking about.
>> Carbon Dioxide is actually lower on an old car than it is on a new car.
>> Back in the day cars spewed out very high carbon monoxide emissions, and
>> therefore have very low carbon dioxide emissions.  The Cat converter on a
>> modern car converts the carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. As far as
>> global
>> warming goes my old LBC is greener than a 2009 model car.  Of course you
>> would not want to start an old LBC in an enclosed garage.  :-)
>> So you have a paradox.  Bad for smog = good for global warming.  Good for
>> smog = bqd for global warming.  So I guess the question becomes, do you
>> want
>> to breathe, or use SPF 30,000 sunblock?
>> The other five gases listed are not used in automobiles (with the possible
>> exception of nitrous)
>>
>> While I agree we need to ep our eyes open, I am not yet ready to freak out
>> over this.
>>
>> Rick
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.0/2065 - Release Date: 04/17/09
>> 17:52:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 10:37:25 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 09:37:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904180932k3ad70b0fp61bb2c529b6ef397@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0904180932k3ad70b0fp61bb2c529b6ef397@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49EA01C5.3060605@comcast.net>

The new EPA estimates seem to be much better; e.g. they call for 16 city/24 hwy 
for my Mustang, and that's about right (the city est. might be just a smidgen 
optimistic).  Can even get over 24mpg hwy if I keep it under 90 ;)


bs


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Kees - assuming these old cars use more fuel is a misguided stereotype
> - a sprite will get 40++ mpg and a BN1 / BN2 will get 25+ mpg.  Even
> the BN1 gets better mileage than the average passenger car based on US
> EPA statistics, and those figures are usually inflated by 15%.
> 
> On 4/18/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>> As older cars generaly use more fuel the CO2 emissions are higher than
>> in modern cars. You are confusing CO2 with NOx. If CO is high NOx may be
>> low and v.v., although it is an approximation.
>> The catalist reduces the emissions of smelly hydrocarbons )unburned
>> fuel), and no odour, poisonous CO, carbonmonoxide, turning it into H2O,
>> water, and CO2, carbondioxide, which an asphixiate in much higher than
>> natural concentrations.
>> The CO in the atmosphere is turned into CO2 by green plants and algae,
>> so although potentially unpleasant it has little effect in open space.
>> Very unpleasant are the hydrocarbons and NOx, they can be the cause of
>> smog and ozone with low winds, sunshine and high temperatures in
>> enclosed cities.
>> Kees Oudesluijs


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From robertlarson at att.net  Sat Apr 18 11:16:37 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:16:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
	<49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net> <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>
	<49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49EA0AF5.4060306@att.net>

That's funny!!!!   I had to put on dry pants.....

Bob

Bob Spidell wrote:

> Guess you never been to Berzerkely ... rational thought need not apply.
>
>
> bs

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Apr 18 11:33:59 2009
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 10:33:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
Message-ID: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>

Does anyone have a decent, used bottom panel for the heater core box for a
BN7?  I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7 that has been badly
abused.  Some dumb P O threw the bottom panel away, probably thinking he could
get more heat this way.  Moss wants $45 for a simple sheet metal panel.  This
is going to be an expensive project, so would like to save a little money on
the simple stuff.

John Snyder

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Apr 18 12:28:28 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 14:28:28 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
Message-ID: <c50.4b2422c1.371b75cc@aol.com>

According to the parts book, the only part that is handed is the bracket  
that bolts to the engine. The parts were bead blasted & closely examined  
recently before being repainted. They are still on the work bench & I can  
assure you that there is no RH/LH stamping on the two brackets. Here are a few  
questions I have:
1.  I have been told that the holes in the handed brackets are round,  not 
rectangular with rounded ends like mine. Is this true or are the holes in  
the handed brackets also rectangular with rounded ends?
2.  I have been told that the earlier 6 cylinder cars had motor mounts  
that were not handed, like mine. Is this true? I don't have access to an 
earlier  parts book.  
"elongated holes are adjustable and can be used on either  side. Used on 
early 6 cyl cars BN4 and BN6. When installing this type of bracket  to the 
engine, once the four 3/8" screws and washers are installed, by hand push  the 
top of the bracket toward the front of the engine as far as it will go and  
hold it there whe the screws are tightened."

3. Does anyone have a set of handed brackets they will sell me? I only need 
 the two handed parts.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/17/2009 3:41:04 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
ampole at hotmail.com writes:

Gary

yes the holes are rectangles with rounded corners, if  memory serves 
correct the LH and RH can not be seen when they are fitted  to the engine, I see 
to think it was stamped on the side of the  angled bit that faces the engine. 
I think the larger part that bolts to  the frame is not handed, might be 
completely wrong thou!

cheers  Andy


 
____________________________________
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat Apr 18 13:17:24 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 15:17:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
	<49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net> <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>
	<49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00dc01c9c05a$4e3dea80$eab9bf80$@net>

Actually, I am an alumnus of the University of California, Berkeley (as are
several others on this list) and damn proud of it but that was back when
conservatives were not tarred and feathered.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 12:29 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: 'Greg Lemon'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step

Guess you never been to Berzerkely ... rational thought need not apply.


bs


John Sims wrote:
> And what is going to keep the greenhouse gasses from crossing the border
> into Berkeley from neighboring towns which are contiguous -- Emeryville,
> Oakland, etc. Perhaps a glass bubble over Berkeley sealing them out?

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 13:28:45 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 12:28:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <00dc01c9c05a$4e3dea80$eab9bf80$@net>
References: <396611.12712.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<A42EE87D4BFD4119B44BCEB3EA120A41@GregPC>
	<49E9F576.2020502@comcast.net> <00db01c9c03f$bca5b9a0$35f12ce0$@net>
	<49E9FFAF.8050700@comcast.net> <00dc01c9c05a$4e3dea80$eab9bf80$@net>
Message-ID: <49EA29ED.7040901@comcast.net>

Great school--responsible for some of our best nuclear weaponry--it's the city 
that's over-the-top.


bs


John Sims wrote:
> Actually, I am an alumnus of the University of California, Berkeley (as are
> several others on this list) and damn proud of it but that was back when
> conservatives were not tarred and feathered.
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
> 
> 
> 
> John Sims wrote:
>> And what is going to keep the greenhouse gasses from crossing the border
>> into Berkeley from neighboring towns which are contiguous -- Emeryville,
>> Oakland, etc. Perhaps a glass bubble over Berkeley sealing them out?
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Apr 18 13:35:30 2009
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 12:35:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10904181235h6bb5ae8ak88b116047d156f99@mail.gmail.com>

Saying that older cars have higher CO2 emissions than new cars is just flat
wrong.
A non emission controlled LBC will produce smog number similar to the
following:
HC 1000 PPM
CO 7%
CO2 3-4%

An emission controlled OBDII car will produce numbers similar to the
following:
HC 10 PPM (or less, I have seen smog tests that register 0)
CO 0-.1%
CO2 13% or so.

So even if you assume a 100% conversion in the atmosphere of CO to CO2 you
still come up short.  This is due to the hydrocarbon emissions.

I stand by my comments.

Rick

On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> As older cars generaly use more fuel the CO2 emissions are higher than in
> modern cars. You are confusing CO2 with NOx. If CO is high NOx may be low
> and v.v., although it is an approximation.
> The catalist reduces the emissions of smelly hydrocarbons )unburned fuel),
> and no odour, poisonous CO, carbonmonoxide, turning it into H2O, water, and
> CO2, carbondioxide, which an asphixiate in much higher than natural
> concentrations.
> The CO in the atmosphere is turned into CO2 by green plants and algae, so
> although potentially unpleasant it has little effect in open space. Very
> unpleasant are the hydrocarbons and NOx, they can be the cause of smog and
> ozone with low winds, sunshine and high temperatures in enclosed cities.
> Kees Oudesluijs

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Sat Apr 18 13:58:43 2009
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 15:58:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
References: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
Message-ID: <C4C31EFBDF3B4975A86EFB4D20106B17@mal71b83fb7a5c>

I think Kilmartin make new ones.

Mal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part


> Does anyone have a decent, used bottom panel for the heater core box for a
> BN7?  I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7 that has been badly
> abused.  Some dumb P O threw the bottom panel away, probably thinking he 
> could
> get more heat this way.  Moss wants $45 for a simple sheet metal panel. 
> This
> is going to be an expensive project, so would like to save a little money 
> on
> the simple stuff.
>
> John Snyder
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


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17:52:00

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 14:38:53 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:38:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10904181235h6bb5ae8ak88b116047d156f99@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>
	<49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
	<a3b984e10904181235h6bb5ae8ak88b116047d156f99@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49EA3A5D.6090404@comcast.net>

Makes sense--newer cars run much leaner.

Re: the CO2.  A good example of the 'law of unintended consequences.'  Reduce 
the HC and CO and increase the NOX--requiring a redesigned converter--and CO2.

Makes you wonder about 'global warming;' even if we're able to reduce CO2--not 
likely, given that the Chinese, Indians, etc. aren't interested in cooperating 
any more than Oakland is interested in cooperating with Berkeley--and in 20 
years all the scientists with an agenda will be raising the threat of 'the new 
ice age' (just like they did 20 years ago).


Bob


Richard Ewald wrote:
> Saying that older cars have higher CO2 emissions than new cars is just flat
> wrong.
> A non emission controlled LBC will produce smog number similar to the
> following:
> HC 1000 PPM
> CO 7%
> CO2 3-4%
> 
> An emission controlled OBDII car will produce numbers similar to the
> following:
> HC 10 PPM (or less, I have seen smog tests that register 0)
> CO 0-.1%
> CO2 13% or so.
> 
> So even if you assume a 100% conversion in the atmosphere of CO to CO2 you
> still come up short.  This is due to the hydrocarbon emissions.
> 
> I stand by my comments.
> 
> Rick

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Apr 18 14:39:44 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:39:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step - Further Comment
Message-ID: <E52EF348FB4F4468B900FF3487CA784B@LeonardPCPC>

Just to clarify, I only bring this you your attention because I know that it
will keep coming up in California and could spread elsewhere.  Anyone who is
concerned about collector/hobby/special interest cars needs to be on the watch
at all times.  There are environmentalists who will continue to persue this
matter and will claim that it must be done at all costs.  They do not care
about the unintended social and economic consequences.  They just want 100%
clean air.

A while back, AB616 caused a stir because it appeared that some of our cars
would be brought back into SMOG check.  Closer scrutiny revealed that those
vehicles exempt at the time would remain exempt.  That bill died.  However,
AB3053 is a clone of AB616 and is still in the system and currently in Senate
Appropriations.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 18 15:04:42 2009
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 16:04:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?
In-Reply-To: <c50.4b2422c1.371b75cc@aol.com>
References: <c50.4b2422c1.371b75cc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001c9c069$4c1bf710$e453e530$@net>

Gary,

The "rubber-to-crankcase" metal brackets for 3000 and 3000 Mk. II BN7s and
BT7s are handed (part numbers AEC889 for the right side and AEC890 for the
left side).

I believe the holes for mounting to the engine block are round.

For BN7 and BT7, at least, the brackets that attach to the frame are not
handed.

Ron


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:28 PM
To: ampole at hotmail.com; msalter at precisionsportscar.com;
healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor mounts - RH/LH?

According to the parts book, the only part that is handed is the bracket  
that bolts to the engine. The parts were bead blasted & closely examined  
recently before being repainted. They are still on the work bench & I can  
assure you that there is no RH/LH stamping on the two brackets. Here are a
few  
questions I have:
1.  I have been told that the holes in the handed brackets are round,  not 
rectangular with rounded ends like mine. Is this true or are the holes in  
the handed brackets also rectangular with rounded ends?
2.  I have been told that the earlier 6 cylinder cars had motor mounts  
that were not handed, like mine. Is this true? I don't have access to an 
earlier  parts book.  
"elongated holes are adjustable and can be used on either  side. Used on 
early 6 cyl cars BN4 and BN6. When installing this type of bracket  to the 
engine, once the four 3/8" screws and washers are installed, by hand push
the 
top of the bracket toward the front of the engine as far as it will go and  
hold it there whe the screws are tightened."

3. Does anyone have a set of handed brackets they will sell me? I only need 
 the two handed parts.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/17/2009 3:41:04 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
ampole at hotmail.com writes:

Gary

yes the holes are rectangles with rounded corners, if  memory serves 
correct the LH and RH can not be seen when they are fitted  to the engine, I
see 
to think it was stamped on the side of the  angled bit that faces the
engine. 
I think the larger part that bolts to  the frame is not handed, might be 
completely wrong thou!

cheers  Andy

From info at atteanlodge.com  Sat Apr 18 17:47:31 2009
From: info at atteanlodge.com (mailmaineguide.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 19:47:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
Message-ID: <D7BFB77B1CE34BBEB727BB2CF12E1398@PC1>

Gentlemen:
 It is time to put the rebuilt carbs on the BJ8  and I would like to know the
gasket/heat shield sequence, I have researched the archives and there seems to
be some discrepancy in the order of replacement, any advice would be mushily
appreciated before I plunge headfirst!
Brad Holden
67 BJ8

From clocks at midcoast.com  Sat Apr 18 18:02:56 2009
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:02:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
Message-ID: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>

We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove two 
blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I have 
decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard that they 
can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone back to standard 
points. My question is when the fail, do they normally go all at once? This 
time the car just died and I could get nothing more after that. Thanks, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sat Apr 18 18:33:42 2009
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:33:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com><9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>
Message-ID: <385B43CA76CF41FF928757BB3D150E56@your4dacd0ea75>

I don't know about Snopes, but Al Gore did say he "created" the internet- 
one can play with semantics if they want to defend  him. .
Here is the video-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpxtKcLSFWw




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <Awgertoo at aol.com>; 
<thehartnetts at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step


> oops, I forgot to finish my asterisk *snopes says no, Al Gore never said
> that, but used here and elsewhere for enterntainment purposes--to nip that
> side conversation in the bud...
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: <Awgertoo at aol.com>; <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 7:36 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
>
>
>> While it is a well know fact* that Al Gore invented the internet, it is
>> less well known that Jefferson invented e-mail.

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Sat Apr 18 18:36:18 2009
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (randy dickson)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 19:36:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] first motion shaft identity and  laygear endfloat
In-Reply-To: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
Message-ID: <BOEMLBJLELMJGGDECHKJGEGBCAAA.rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>

Fellow Healeyoids,
I'm having trouble identifying which is the correct first motion shaft.  I
have two complete gearboxes plus lots of other parts.  It has been awhile
since I assembled a gearbox so I want to know which first motion shaft goes
with my BJ7 box.  I think that it is the AEC 3472 first motion shaft.  I
know that the BJ8 first motion and main shaft are different.  The other
first motion shaft is a 22 B140 (BJ8???).  It appears that on the BJ7, the
bearings (18) that accompany the first motion shaft are longer, and
different than the BJ8 box.  I've got the BJ7 box mostly together now with
the first motion shaft installed.  I just want to double check, that I have
correct first motion shaft installed.  Endfloat on the laygear is between
.007-.0016. I read that .0012 is the limit, but the end of the laygear is
not perfectly even (thanks to the machine shop). The front of the box
contains the much larger bushing.  Shouldn't the real thrust be toward the
large end anyway? I wonder how long the gearbox will last with a larger
endfloat?  Is it just noisier or does it fail quicker.  Thanks!

Randy
Healey-Archaeologist
63 BJ7
60 BT7
66 Cobra replica
06 Mini cooper S

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 19:30:32 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:30:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
Message-ID: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>

Manifold->Gasket(*)->Insulator Block->Gasket->Heat Shield->Gasket->Carburettor


(*) Neither the parts book nor Moss catalog show this gasket, but I believe you
need one.  I have them on my BJ8--it's a different material than the heat shield
gaskets (which appear to be paper)--and may come with the carb rebuild kits.

I can't imagine not putting a gasket between the insulator block and the
manifold--seems like you'd be asking for an intake leak (the insulator block is
a hard plastic, probably Bakelite).


Bob



mailmaineguide.com wrote:
> Gentlemen:
>  It is time to put the rebuilt carbs on the BJ8  and I would like to know the
> gasket/heat shield sequence, I have researched the archives and there seems to
> be some discrepancy in the order of replacement, any advice would be mushily
> appreciated before I plunge headfirst!
> Brad Holden
> 67 BJ8

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 19:32:24 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:32:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
Message-ID: <49EA7F28.3020904@comcast.net>

James,

How have you determined it's the Pertronix unit that failed?  My engine quit all 
of a sudden in Mesa Verde National Park, and I immediately suspected my 
Pertronix unit ... turns out is was a bum rotor.


Bob


James Lea wrote:
> We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove 
> two blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I 
> have decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard 
> that they can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone 
> back to standard points. My question is when the fail, do they normally 
> go all at once? This time the car just died and I could get nothing more 
> after that. Thanks, JL
> 
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> 
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric _______________________________________________

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Apr 18 19:34:41 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 21:34:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
In-Reply-To: <C4C31EFBDF3B4975A86EFB4D20106B17@mal71b83fb7a5c>
References: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
	<C4C31EFBDF3B4975A86EFB4D20106B17@mal71b83fb7a5c>
Message-ID: <00ed01c9c08f$02ed9230$08c8b690$@net>

John, 

Mal is right, Kilmartin does make them but they don't have the SMITHS name
embossed into them in case that matters to you. I have one of those if
you're interested.

Rich Chrysler


Mal wrote:

I think Kilmartin make new ones.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part


> Does anyone have a decent, used bottom panel for the heater core box for a
> BN7?  I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7 that has been badly
> abused.  Some dumb P O threw the bottom panel away, probably thinking he 
> could
> get more heat this way.  Moss wants $45 for a simple sheet metal panel. 
> This
> is going to be an expensive project, so would like to save a little money 
> on
> the simple stuff.
>
> John Snyder



No virus found in this incoming message.
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17:52:00
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From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 18 19:52:35 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 21:52:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
References: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
Message-ID: <000e01c9c091$83b70390$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

John,  I also was missing the same panel and ordered it thru Moss.   One 
plus is
that it did have the big  SMITH name stamped on it  as original.  That was a 
nice surprise and
it was ready for install and fit perfect.   You will also need the side 
clips.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part


> Does anyone have a decent, used bottom panel for the heater core box for a
> BN7?  I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7 that has been badly
> abused.  Some dumb P O threw the bottom panel away, probably thinking he 
> could
> get more heat this way.  Moss wants $45 for a simple sheet metal panel. 
> This
> is going to be an expensive project, so would like to save a little money 
> on
> the simple stuff.
>
> John Snyder
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 18 20:46:28 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 02:46:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
In-Reply-To: <00ed01c9c08f$02ed9230$08c8b690$@net>
References: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
	<C4C31EFBDF3B4975A86EFB4D20106B17@mal71b83fb7a5c> 
	<00ed01c9c08f$02ed9230$08c8b690$@net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W70587578504C26453B98CBD5790@phx.gbl>

And just for info, Ashley Hinton actually make them, he also sells on ebay the
clips, trunking, valve etc:



http://www.mgcars.org.uk/ah/heater.htm



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 18 21:36:48 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 03:36:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
In-Reply-To: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>
References: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>

Bob



My SU rebuild kit came with 2 paper gaskets (not listed), The engine payen kit
came with 4 metal gaskets (as listed in parts manual), I am still deciding
what to do. Incidentally my bj8 when stripped had 6 of the metal ones.



I was thinking of putting a metal gasket each side of the plastic insulator
and the paper one between the heatshield and carb (as it is supplied with the
carbs)?



I also thought you would need something between the manifold and plastic.



The answers have never really clarified the order or material.



Yours has been the clearest answer so far.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 21:56:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:56:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>
References: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>
	<SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49EAA106.9060603@comcast.net>

Andy,

I think metal, or metal/fiber gaskets would be overkill for intakes (usually you 
see those on the exhaust).  You'd probably have to put more tension on the carb 
nuts to compress them, then re-tighten after a few hours after the gaskets 
compress (you need to do that on exhaust gaskets).

The paper gaskets on either side of the heat shield seem to work well, but I 
think you'd want something more durable like "pseudo-asbestos" on the manifold 
side, although paper might work just fine.  If the metal gaskets are thin enough 
  and of a soft enough alloy they should be OK, but I'd be sure to re-tighten 
the stud nuts after a few hours (probably a good idea with any gasketed union).

Bob


andy pole wrote:
> Bob
>  
> My SU rebuild kit came with 2 paper gaskets (not listed), The engine 
> payen kit came with 4 metal gaskets (as listed in parts manual), I am 
> still deciding what to do. Incidentally my bj8 when stripped had 6 of 
> the metal ones.
>  
> I was thinking of putting a metal gasket each side of the plastic 
> insulator and the paper one between the heatshield and carb (as it is 
> supplied with the carbs)?
>  
> I also thought you would need something between the manifold and plastic.
>  
> The answers have never really clarified the order or material.
>  
> Yours has been the clearest answer so far.
>  
> cheers Andy

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 18 22:05:02 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 04:05:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
In-Reply-To: <49EAA106.9060603@comcast.net>
References: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>
	<SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>
	<49EAA106.9060603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W60C0BD4D5B77C63056EBC7D5790@phx.gbl>

Bob



This is the metal (and only) gasket that is listed in the parts book for the
HD8's:



http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/productspec.aspx?StockCode=FL4630



if memory serves correct, it and the insulator block are shown on the drawing
with the air cleaners on, cannot check the page, as at work at the moment.



cheers Andy

_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Apr 18 22:23:42 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 21:23:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W60C0BD4D5B77C63056EBC7D5790@phx.gbl>
References: <49EA7EB8.6020803@comcast.net>
	<SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>
	<49EAA106.9060603@comcast.net>
	<SNT103-W60C0BD4D5B77C63056EBC7D5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49EAA74E.9080404@comcast.net>

Looks to be the same type of gasket that's being sold for the the exhaust 
manifold to downpipe flange--these are barely adequate for exhaust, but would be 
OK durability-wise for intakes.  Seem a bit thick to me.

All suppliers are specifying 4 gaskets total; nothing about a gasket between the 
insulator block and the manifold.  I gotta believe you need something there.

Bob


andy pole wrote:
> Bob
>  
> This is the metal (and only) gasket that is listed in the parts book for 
> the HD8's:
>  
> http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/productspec.aspx?StockCode=FL4630
>  
> if memory serves correct, it and the insulator block are shown on the 
> drawing with the air cleaners on, cannot check the page, as at work at 
> the moment.
>  
> cheers Andy
> 



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Apr 19 00:19:23 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 08:19:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
Message-ID: <49EAC26B.2020604@chello.nl>

Most electronic ignitions provide a stronger spark and need at least a 3 
Ohm resistance from the coil plus resistor at all times. During start up 
the resistor is shorted to increase the voltage on the standard ignition 
to provide a stronger spark as the voltage will drop due to the strong 
current and the resistance will drop to about 1,5 Ohm. This may cause 
the electronic ignition to overheat and possibly burn out.
Vulnarable are the Pertronics and Lumenition systems. Perhaps also others.

Because of the stronger spark the electronic ignition is providing this 
shorting of the resistor is not neccesary anymore.
The remedy is simple, just disconnect the small white/yellow wire at the 
starter motor relay. This will leave the resistor in function at all times.

Kees Oudesluijs


James Lea schreef:
> We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove 
> two blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I 
> have decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard 
> that they can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone 
> back to standard points. My question is when the fail, do they 
> normally go all at once? This time the car just died and I could get 
> nothing more after that. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.0/2065 - Release Date: 04/17/09 17:52:00

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 01:27:45 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 09:27:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <49EAC26B.2020604@chello.nl>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM> <49EAC26B.2020604@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904190027w3cdc66f5ga63aa5b9ed92d3ad@mail.gmail.com>

Kees - AH ignitions, EI or stockN are unballasted.  The EI made for
the AH from Pertronix does now require a ballast resistor.  Been using
them for 20 years with no failures.

On 4/19/09, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> Most electronic ignitions provide a stronger spark and need at least a 3
> Ohm resistance from the coil plus resistor at all times. During start up
> the resistor is shorted to increase the voltage on the standard ignition
> to provide a stronger spark as the voltage will drop due to the strong
> current and the resistance will drop to about 1,5 Ohm. This may cause
> the electronic ignition to overheat and possibly burn out.
> Vulnarable are the Pertronics and Lumenition systems. Perhaps also others.
>
> Because of the stronger spark the electronic ignition is providing this
> shorting of the resistor is not neccesary anymore.
> The remedy is simple, just disconnect the small white/yellow wire at the
> starter motor relay. This will leave the resistor in function at all times.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> James Lea schreef:
>> We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove
>> two blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I
>> have decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard
>> that they can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone
>> back to standard points. My question is when the fail, do they
>> normally go all at once? This time the car just died and I could get
>> nothing more after that. Thanks, JL
>>
>> James Lea
>> PO Box 25
>> Rockport Maine 04856
>> 1-207-236-3632
>>
>> 1951 Triumph Renown
>> 1952 MG TD
>> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
>> 1958 Rover P4
>> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
>> 1980 Commuta-car Electric _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.0/2065 - Release Date: 04/17/09
>> 17:52:00
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 01:31:59 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 09:31:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904190031k5b08eb21i103fd6a9fbb467a4@mail.gmail.com>

James -

Sounds like you fried your rotor.  Try replacing your rotor.

The only time Pertronix goes bad is if the cam magnet assembly
delaminates, or if it is wired up backwards.

Because of the stronger spark from the Pertronix, apparently some of
the rotors with metal rivets in them will fail after minimal use.

Find a used rotor that you know that works and try it.  I bet your car
fires right up again.

Alan

On 4/19/09, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:
> We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove two
> blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I have
> decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard that they
> can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone back to standard
> points. My question is when the fail, do they normally go all at once? This
> time the car just died and I could get nothing more after that. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Apr 19 05:10:37 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 07:10:37 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
Message-ID: <c5b.43c23982.371c60ad@aol.com>

Jim--
 
Don't be too quick to pull out the Pertronix.  Check your coil for 3  ohms 
resistance, then contact Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors who had a  
special run of rotors made.  
 
Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 4/19/2009 3:32:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:

Sounds  like you fried your rotor.  Try replacing your  rotor.



**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
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From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sun Apr 19 05:46:06 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:46:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys]  carburetor gaskets- BJ7
In-Reply-To: <545842866.3825561240141425450.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <546903818.3825861240141566435.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Listers- 


I thought I'd jump in on the fun and ask for a read on what type of gaskets are used on a MKIIa. 
When I removed them, there were 3 of the 1/4" fibre/asbestos type on the engine side of the heat shield and two on the carb side of the heat shield. They are in excellent shape, and I am considering reusing them. I've seen a few pics of what look like original engines (at lease they are old and crusty), and these have the three gaskets on the engine side of the heat shield. 


I would reinstall these original blocks with the paper gaskets supplied by SU on either side of the heat shield. That should keep it tight. Any thoughts? 


I've just seen too many of those black plastic spacers supplied by Moss, and frankly, they look like they were supplied by them. I know the Nocks have a source for more authentic spacers, just not sure what applications are available. 


Thomas Leavy 
451 Branchport Ave 
Oceanport, NJ 07757 
908-433-9322 

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Apr 19 07:52:06 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 09:52:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive failure
Message-ID: <20090419145107.7E21A187681@autox.team.net>

The first time this happened was last fall.  After driving the car for about
20 minutes on the parkway, long enough for it to be fully warmed up, the
overdrive first started to engage very slowly.  Then it reached a point
where it would only engage if I took my foot off the gas and would disengage
as soon as I hit the gas again.  It felt like there was not enough hydraulic
pressure to keep it engaged.

I replaced the o-ring on the accumulator and the solenoid and that seemed to
cure the problem until I took the car off the road for the winter.  I did
notice, however, that when the car was warm, it did not seem to snap into
overdrive quite as quickly as before, but that may have been just my
imagination.

When I took the car out for the first time yesterday the overdrive worked
well until the car was fully warmed up.  Then it did the same thing it had
done last fall.

Up until last fall, the overdrive had been working perfectly since I bought
the car 15 years (50k+ miles) ago except for burning out a couple of
solenoids.  (I have had the gearbox apart several times to replace the balk
rings, lay gear, and first gear - the last time it was apart was 8 years
ago.)

I had switched to Redline MTL about a year before this happened. When I
replaced the o-ring last fall, I went back to non-detergent 30 weight oil
since I suspected that I might have to open the unit again and did not want
to waste expensive oil.  I should also note that the old o-ring did not seem
to be particularly worn and fit just about at tightly as the new one.

This time I am planning to replace the o-ring again, plus the rings on the
accumulator piston, and the spring on the check valve for the pump.  Is
there anything else that I should be considering?

Does anyone make a gauge that I can use to test the hydraulic pressure in
this unit?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Apr 19 08:24:11 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 08:24:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive failure
References: <20090419145107.7E21A187681@autox.team.net> 
Message-ID: <BA2A2024D9B94ED580BC7143F4E9A731@oscar>

Peter,
 While I don't know it all, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last week.
 Your description of it re-engaging with diminished RPM's  and visa-versa
says the kick down switch is improperly adjusted, but after the rest of the
symptoms are stated I would say that the rings on the accumulator piston AND
the operating pistons are in play. Like perhaps there is enough galling on
the bore walls to displace the rings enough to diminish pressure. It's
pretty hard to diagnose these things with out disassembly. They are pretty
dumb units. Either there is pressure to engage it or not. So if the pump
pumps and the valve opens it works assuming everything else is WNL of wear.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sun Apr 19 09:52:52 2009
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:52:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?It=E2=80=99s_SpringThing_time!?=
Message-ID: <c2d.586b16e0.371ca2d4@aol.com>

Call to the Post! Itbs SpringThing time!
Webre  headed down the homestretch as we prepare for SpringThing 2009: Back
to the  Bluegrass. Please take a moment to visit _www.BluegrassClub.com_
(http://www.bluegrassclub.com/)  to download a  Registration form. This year
is once again about VIP experiences and a leisurely  pace that you decide how
much you do while here.
On  Thursday evening we will gather for a night of fun, games and awesome
Bluegrass  hospitality. Friday morning is a quiet and slow morning. This is a
great  opportunity to take an excursion out to one of Louisvillebs amazing
museums or  arts districts. Some suggestions include: the Louisville Slugger
Museum, the  Frazier International History Museum and the Muhammad Ali
Center. Our thriving  historic NuLu corridor offers original shops and
restaurants and is a perfect  place to spend a relaxing afternoon. Or join our
very
own Adam Burckle in his  garage for donuts and coffee to kick some tires and
see his magnificent and  diverse collection. After that, join us at
Churchill Downs for a seat on  Millionairebs Row and a grand buffet. A full
docket
of races awaits you, as well  as a sneak peak behind the scenes!
On  Saturday morning we wake and begin our journey to Georgetown. Along the
way stop  and experience a true Kentucky winery with a free tasting and
tour. Once youbve  arrived at your destination and freshened up, enjoy some
incredible private  horse farm tours. Old Friends is a retirement village for
thoroughbreds that is  sure to please and offers free tours. Jordan Farms is
a quaint and quiet farm  with serene landscapes and great photo
opportunities; this is a self-guided  visit, and free of charge. On Saturday
night bring
your dancing shoes as we take  over the Kentucky Horse Park. Our evening
includes tours and movies of the horse  park facilities as well as a full
buffet and hayrides. After dinner stick around  for the live clogging lesson!
We  hope youbll join us for this great adventure in the Bluegrass!
Benjamin L.  Moore
ben.moore at mac.com
502.797.5652

**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
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From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 11:14:41 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:14:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive failure
In-Reply-To: <BA2A2024D9B94ED580BC7143F4E9A731@oscar>
References: <20090419145107.7E21A187681@autox.team.net>
	<BA2A2024D9B94ED580BC7143F4E9A731@oscar>
Message-ID: <ce473f960904191014t5290aaaene0127b5256de2d8d@mail.gmail.com>

A guy I know (but I won't say who) had this problem. He checked his
transmission oil level and found it dangerously low. When he refilled
to the proper level, the problem went away.

Bob Johnson (in this case also known as Obvious Man)
BJ8

On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
wrote:
> Peter,
>  While I don't know it all, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last week.
>  Your description of it re-engaging with diminished RPM's  and visa-versa
> says the kick down switch is improperly adjusted, but after the rest of the
> symptoms are stated I would say that the rings on the accumulator piston
AND
> the operating pistons are in play. Like perhaps there is enough galling on
> the bore walls to displace the rings enough to diminish pressure. It's
> pretty hard to diagnose these things with out disassembly. They are pretty
> dumb units. Either there is pressure to engage it or not. So if the pump
> pumps and the valve opens it works assuming everything else is WNL of wear.
> Dave
>
> frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
>  www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> blog: http://porterbikes.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bjsbj8 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 11:29:02 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:29:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 22nd Annual South Central British Car Gathering
Message-ID: <ce473f960904191029u2fc7accbq121d00f47067e2c2@mail.gmail.com>

I went to this event for the first time yesterday. The day was
unbelievably great, absolutely clear skies, temp in the 70's and lots
of LBCs, including many Triumphs that I had never known about before.
There were a bunch of big Healeys, some Sprites an Spridgets, and lots
of great folks, including several people that are on this list. I
think that probably Steve Byers got the prize for longest distance to
the event by a big Healey. Would highly reccommend this trip for
anyone with any kind of LBC. It is listed on the NC tourist bureau's
list every Spring.

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Sun Apr 19 11:59:45 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:59:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
Message-ID: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>

Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year 
cosmetic restoration.  I had done the engine some years previously.  
This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 speed 
conversion.
Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems 
worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on.  Before 
the project everything had worked.  I checked the generator in-situ as 
outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine.  I 
also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct 
location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to 
the body.
All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked 
fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?  
Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
Any suggestions are welcome.
BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator?  It 
worked before, why would it not now?  It seems akin to the instructions 
in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From kags at shaw.ca  Sun Apr 19 12:04:24 2009
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:04:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
Message-ID: <756F6D295D9A4CCEB4D74C6E04251D23@computer>

James:

On some distributors where the shaft clearance - the distance between the 
top of the rotor and the bottom of the centre dome of the distributor cap is 
on the tight side (possibly because the distibutor has been re-bushed), the 
addition of the magnet ring of the Pertronix raises the rotor enough to 
close the clearance.  This will fry the rotor almost immediately - I've had 
this happen.  If this is the cause, the next rotor will also fail quickly, 
but not necessarily 2 blocks from home!

There is usually evidence of this - look at the top of the rotor where the 
carbon contact rides and it will be obvious.  I have fixed this on one car 
by gently grinding down the centre dome of the cap - with the carbon and 
spring removed, thinking that to mess with the rotor in order to lower it 
was not a good idea what with all the recent rotor difficulties that we've 
had.  The downside - any spare or replacement distributor cap has to be 
similarly modified, and sometimes it will be years later before that 
happens, so remembering to do it might be a problem.

Listers should note that I and a few other people feel that this clearance 
problem may be contributing to the rotor failure problem - at least in some 
cases.  In other words, it may not always be a dud rotor.  This also may be 
why the propblem seems to be cured when some people revert to points, and 
the problem goes away.

Any others out there that can comment?

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics


We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove two
blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I have
decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard that they
can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone back to standard
points. My question is when the fail, do they normally go all at once? This
time the car just died and I could get nothing more after that. Thanks, JL

James Lea

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 12:15:48 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 02:15:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
In-Reply-To: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
References: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904191115i5ce71374r1a1a08754ec53b8d@mail.gmail.com>

Charlie -

Your VR probably worked just fine before you screwed everything up
with a new harness with new wires and a rebuilt generator!

If your battery was a bit low from sitting for a while and you started
the car, it may have been enough to fry the contacts on your VR.

Yes I have adjusted the VR on my car - in fact I would say it is one
of the most important overlooked maint. jobs on a stock healey.  New
VRs are often not adjusted correctly and old ones will often work
their way out adjustment when the contacts get burned.

Pop the cover and see if the contacts look burned or warped - If so
you usually can fix it with a little fiddling.

Alan

On 4/20/09, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:
> Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
> cosmetic restoration.  I had done the engine some years previously.
> This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 speed
> conversion.
> Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
> worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on.  Before
> the project everything had worked.  I checked the generator in-situ as
> outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine.  I
> also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
> location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
> the body.
> All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
> fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?
> Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
> Any suggestions are welcome.
> BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator?  It
> worked before, why would it not now?  It seems akin to the instructions
> in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
> Thanks.
> Charlie Baldwin
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
> mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From f9cougar at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 19 13:19:30 2009
From: f9cougar at yahoo.com (john close)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 12:19:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
Message-ID: <9397.9166.qm@web34801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oh my! - Loved it - JRC 

--- On Sat, 4/18/09, Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com> wrote:


From: Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
To: healeys at autox.team.net, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Saturday, April 18, 2009, 5:33 PM


I don't know about Snopes, but Al Gore did say he "created" the internet- one
can play with semantics if they want to defend  him. .
Here is the video-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpxtKcLSFWw




----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <Awgertoo at aol.com>;
<thehartnetts at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step


> oops, I forgot to finish my asterisk *snopes says no, Al Gore never said
> that, but used here and elsewhere for enterntainment purposes--to nip that
> side conversation in the bud...
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: <Awgertoo at aol.com>; <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 7:36 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
>
>
>> While it is a well know fact* that Al Gore invented the internet, it is
>> less well known that Jefferson invented e-mail.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as f9cougar at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 19 14:41:23 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:41:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Ice
Message-ID: <49EB8C73.7030309@comcast.net>

Anybody tried it?


Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Apr 19 14:51:37 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 22:51:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904190027w3cdc66f5ga63aa5b9ed92d3ad@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM> <49EAC26B.2020604@chello.nl>
	<ff59076c0904190027w3cdc66f5ga63aa5b9ed92d3ad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49EB8ED9.2090304@chello.nl>

Alan,
Many 12V cars (also AH's and Midgets) have been changed to 6V coil with 
balast resistor for better starting. My comment was meant as a general 
warning.
Lately I have seen several electronic units been fried, one Pertronics, 
one Optronic and 3 or 4 Magnetronics. All had the wire to the starter 
relais to short the resistor in place, which meant that during starting 
the total resistance was about 1,5 Ohm instead of the 3 Ohms that is 
generaly required, thus possible frying of the ignition module. 
Kees Oudesluijs
Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Kees - AH ignitions, EI or stockN are unballasted.  The EI made for
> the AH from Pertronix does now require a ballast resistor.  Been using
> them for 20 years with no failures.

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun Apr 19 16:06:30 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 18:06:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix
Message-ID: <cfc.53ea3166.371cfa66@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/18/09 5:36:13 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> We fired up the Healey for the first time this year yesterday. I drove two
> blocks and she died. After checking everything I could think of I have
> decided that the problem is the Petronics ignition. I have heard that they
> can cause problems and several of my LBC friends have gone back to 
> standard
> points. My question is when the fail, do they normally go all at once? 
> This
> time the car just died and I could get nothing more after that. Thanks, JL
> 
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> 

Do not automatically assume that it was the Pertronix that failed. Unless, 
of course, you open the distributor cap and discover that the Pertronix has 
come apart inside the distributor (Which was the way 99 percent of them 
failed, so I'm told, way back when, due to a batch where the plastic control box 
was badly glued onto the base plate.) However, it shouldn't be much of a 
job to swap the original points back into the system if you have checked 
everything else and have concluded that you're not getting spark. If the 
Pertronix is new to your car, the first thing I'd be looking at is the condition of 
the Rotor and Brush, to see if they are intact and that the rotor is seated 
far enough down on the shaft so that it has adequate clearance with the top 
of the cap (which I learned from experience was one of the ways a good 
Pertronix, badly installed, could fail.)
Good luck.
Gary



**************
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)

From bighealey at astound.net  Sun Apr 19 17:15:49 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 16:15:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
References: <93436C5F5DA64F64A170D8FCB6D439F2@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <FCA4817D8FEA43DCBD7ABF11BF669515@Soderling>

Len,

I agree with Len's assessment that this insidious EPA announcement spells 
trouble down the line for the vintage/classic car owners.

However, a far more damaging affect of this announcement will be felt by 
most Americans, especially automobile owners & manufactures, all energy 
users of most any type, and the U.S. taxpayers ( which is only half of all 
Americans).  Many prominent climatologists disagree with the whole global 
warming scenario (both that the earth's climate is in fact continuing to 
warm and the assertion that human activity is significantly responsible for 
any climate change) as put forth by mostly U.S. and foreign government 
funded studies.  Hopefully you've noticed that they've dropped Al gore's 
"global warming" handle and now call it "climate change" so they can 
confiscate the earnings of our productivity no matter which way the 
thermometer goes.

Hold onto your wallets and liberty friends.  Get use to seeing our 
sovereignty being handed to fascist and petty dictator run world government 
groups, like the United Nations; hopefully though for only the next four 
years.

Vroooom vroooom and Give me Liberty, not Debt!
John & Erika the Red

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Apr 19 17:49:01 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 23:49:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
In-Reply-To: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
References: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W3756FAA70BC21B3B1E25F2A5790@phx.gbl>

Did you polarize the voltage regulator when you re-installed the charging
system? I changed polarity on my latest project (57 Land Rover) and I had to
arc the regulator twice before it decided I was serious.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:59:45 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
>
> Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
> cosmetic restoration.  I had done the engine some years previously.
> This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 speed
> conversion.
> Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
> worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on.  Before
> the project everything had worked.  I checked the generator in-situ as
> outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine.  I
> also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
> location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
> the body.
> All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
> fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?
> Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
> Any suggestions are welcome.
> BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator?  It
> worked before, why would it not now?  It seems akin to the instructions
> in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
> Thanks.
> Charlie Baldwin
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Apr 19 18:40:29 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 19:40:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
In-Reply-To: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJIEFMDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<It worked before, why would it not now?>>

Our WORST (worser than Dr. Lucas <VBG>) 'enemy', Charlie.

Oxidation.

Go to favorite 'big box' parts peddler (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advanced,
&/or CarQuest) and p/u (usually only sold in pairs<F>) a Points File.

Run it gently (battery DIS-Connected at post) thru the V/R contacts.
Prob'ly needs anyway<G>!!

Report back.

Me

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Sun Apr 19 18:49:58 2009
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:49:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
In-Reply-To: <BAY144-W3756FAA70BC21B3B1E25F2A5790@phx.gbl>
References: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
	<BAY144-W3756FAA70BC21B3B1E25F2A5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49EBC6B6.9050200@comcast.net>

Bill,
I polarized the generator, but hadn't heard of doing so to the 
regulator.  I did change polarity in this process.  How do I do it?
Thanks.
Charlie

WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> Did you polarize the voltage regulator when you re-installed the 
> charging system? I changed polarity on my latest project (57 Land 
> Rover) and I had to arc the regulator twice before it decided I was 
> serious.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:59:45 -0400
> > From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
> >
> > Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
> > cosmetic restoration. I had done the engine some years previously.
> > This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 
> speed
> > conversion.
> > Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
> > worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on. Before
> > the project everything had worked. I checked the generator in-situ as
> > outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine. I
> > also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
> > location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
> > the body.
> > All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
> > fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?
> > Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
> > Any suggestions are welcome.
> > BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator? It
> > worked before, why would it not now? It seems akin to the instructions
> > in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
> > Thanks.
> > Charlie Baldwin
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a 
> name of mgcharlie.vcf]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 19 19:29:47 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 18:29:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
Message-ID: <620981.20412.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Check Healey Marque I think it's Feb. 09 ... My Tech Article " the Charging
System " DO NOT TRY TO POLARIZE A LUCAS REGULATOR ... Norman Nock

--- On Sun, 4/19/09, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
To: "healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 19, 2009, 10:59 AM

Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
cosmetic restoration.  I had done the engine some years previously. 
This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 speed
conversion.
Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on.  Before
the project everything had worked.  I checked the generator in-situ as
outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine.  I
also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
the body.
All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking? 
Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
Any suggestions are welcome.
BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator?  It
worked before, why would it not now?  It seems akin to the instructions
in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Apr 19 20:02:18 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 21:02:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] carburator gaskets
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W82F91CFC66301F51DFE5DCD5790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJEEFODBAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Incidentally my bj8 when stripped had 6 of the metal ones.>>

While BJ-8s are not my most common customers' car, that is EXACTLY what I
have been doing for 3ish decades, Andy.  Same with all other
cars except I use the correct 'composition' types.

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Sun Apr 19 20:10:24 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 19:10:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <FCA4817D8FEA43DCBD7ABF11BF669515@Soderling>
Message-ID: <C61127A0.1805%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I just watched public television's production on "Jonestown," the horrid
story in which 905 "true believers" committed mass suicide, following a Pied
Piper of a person who promised everything and delivered nothing.

Before these people are finished, we will be forced to drive cars we don't
want for the common good.  You can always tell when the serious manipulators
are at work -- you are forced, by law, to do things you do not want to do.
E.g.. Cuba, Soviet Union, China, North Korea, and the USA, more every day.

Michael
BJ8


John Soderlingbighealey at astound.net

> Len,
> 
> I agree with Len's assessment that this insidious EPA announcement spells
> trouble down the line for the vintage/classic car owners.
> 
> However, a far more damaging affect of this announcement will be felt by
> most Americans, especially automobile owners & manufactures, all energy
> users of most any type, and the U.S. taxpayers ( which is only half of all
> Americans).  Many prominent climatologists disagree with the whole global
> warming scenario (both that the earth's climate is in fact continuing to
> warm and the assertion that human activity is significantly responsible for
> any climate change) as put forth by mostly U.S. and foreign government
> funded studies.  Hopefully you've noticed that they've dropped Al gore's
> "global warming" handle and now call it "climate change" so they can
> confiscate the earnings of our productivity no matter which way the
> thermometer goes.
> 
> Hold onto your wallets and liberty friends.  Get use to seeing our
> sovereignty being handed to fascist and petty dictator run world government
> groups, like the United Nations; hopefully though for only the next four
> years.
> 
> Vroooom vroooom and Give me Liberty, not Debt!
> John & Erika the Red
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 19 21:03:51 2009
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:03:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Petronics
In-Reply-To: <756F6D295D9A4CCEB4D74C6E04251D23@computer>
References: <B9713092D5354947A86B39BBED609ACF@JIM>
	<756F6D295D9A4CCEB4D74C6E04251D23@computer>
Message-ID: <BLU144-W35285C52514723DFA08A77DB760@phx.gbl>

I can vouch for what Earl is saying. I used the other option and shortened the
rotor. I spoke with Pertronix about this issue a few years ago and they wanted
me to send them my dizzy which I wasn't willing to do. They claimed that they
had never heard of this problem but at Conclave in San Diego last year I spoke
with a few who were having the same issue. Udo Putzke said he was aware of the
problem also and that his Pertronix units were modified to remedy this. I
don't see how modifying the unit could possibly fix this but those who know
Udo will know what I mean.

  I have been running the shortened rotor for about 1k miles with no problems
so far.



Dan Serrao

1963 BJ7

> From: kags at shaw.ca
> To: clocks at midcoast.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:04:24 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronics
>
> James:
>
> On some distributors where the shaft clearance - the distance between the
> top of the rotor and the bottom of the centre dome of the distributor cap is
> on the tight side (possibly because the distibutor has been re-bushed), the
> addition of the magnet ring of the Pertronix raises the rotor enough to
> close the clearance. This will fry the rotor almost immediately - I've had
> this happen. If this is the cause, the next rotor will also fail quickly,
> but not necessarily 2 blocks from home!
>
> There is usually evidence of this - look at the top of the rotor where the
> carbon contact rides and it will be obvious. I have fixed this on one car
> by gently grinding down the centre dome of the cap - with the carbon and
> spring removed, thinking that to mess with the rotor in order to lower it
> was not a good idea what with all the recent rotor difficulties that we've
> had. The downside - any spare or replacement distributor cap has to be
> similarly modified, and sometimes it will be years later before that
> happens, so remembering to do it might be a problem.
>
> Listers should note that I and a few other people feel that this clearance
> problem may be contributing to the rotor failure problem - at least in some
> cases. In other words, it may not always be a dud rotor. This also may be
> why the propblem seems to be cured when some people revert to points, and
> the problem goes away.
>
> Any others out there that can comment?
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor
age2_042009

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Sun Apr 19 21:42:53 2009
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:42:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step NON HEALEY
In-Reply-To: <FCA4817D8FEA43DCBD7ABF11BF669515@Soderling>
References: <93436C5F5DA64F64A170D8FCB6D439F2@LeonardPCPC>
	<FCA4817D8FEA43DCBD7ABF11BF669515@Soderling>
Message-ID: <1F18BC2871FF44D0AFBCFD0F63BFCE48@OfficeDell>

John is right and if you want to know the future, just read:
Animal Farm
1984
Atlas Shrugged
.....
And I predict that along with your speeding ticket in 4 yrs you will be
issued and additional fine for "crimes against the people and planet for
using excessive world resources". It will be "progressive" based upon your
wealth.
Ron Davies

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 00:04:31 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 14:04:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Fasteners
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP458515ABD5713A6E8ACC27C37F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP458515ABD5713A6E8ACC27C37F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904192304m724ad2b1tf014c14764d0f6ea@mail.gmail.com>

Mirek -

I found a guy that has what you need -

http://cgi.ebay.com/1800-ea-8-36-x-5%2f8%22-Phillips-Pan-Screws-w%2fwasher-Cad_W0QQitemZ330321621030QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/-1000-ea--8-36-x-5%2f16%22-Phillips-Truss-Screws-CHROME!_W0QQitemZ330297099010QQcmdZViewItem

the only thing is you need to purchase qty 1,000+!

also these guys might have it but you have to call to see what type of head:

https://weldwarehouse.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?::1:WLDWH:1:number=73030


Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I am overhauling a factory hardtop and need the screws that secure the
> toggle
> clamps to the top rail of the windshield.  I am pretty sure (but would
> welcome
> being corrected) that these are 8-36, chrome, Phillips oval head, 1/2"
> long.
> Stainless would be fine as it can be polished up.
>
> I can't find these at any of my normal suppliers (although I can get pan
> head
> 8-36, so the this thread type is around).
>
> If anyone has a source for these or has 4 they are willing to part with,
> please let me know.
>
> I know I can re-tap the holes to something more common but would rather not
> do
> this to a very original hardtop.
>
> cheers,
>
> Mirek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 02:30:10 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 16:30:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1892905398.1663331236054286499.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904200130y569f15edrffd5ea7f06e22632@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

I just received these reamers from ENCO.  They have changed the supplier -
now it has a stepped shaft.  I will measure the end shape, hopefully it is
still 5/16" but this reamer is not the same as in the picture.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 12:24 PM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:

> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>
> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>
> Tom

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Apr 20 04:33:36 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:33:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] EPA Takes First Step
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10904181235h6bb5ae8ak88b116047d156f99@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cf6.51d09968.371b0ecb@aol.com>	
	<9B41D3DAB15D4ECDB5056E1CD83E7278@GregPC>	
	<F8C32E4BBA0A4510802004607F44F675@GregPC>	
	<a3b984e10904180640r68bdf5ddw52ea22c43770023d@mail.gmail.com>	
	<49E9F49D.2060007@chello.nl>
	<a3b984e10904181235h6bb5ae8ak88b116047d156f99@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49EC4F80.2080600@chello.nl>

Rick,
This does not mean anything. It is in gr/km that counts.
Kees Oudesluijs

Richard Ewald schreef:
> Saying that older cars have higher CO2 emissions than new cars is just 
> flat wrong.
> A non emission controlled LBC will produce smog number similar to the 
> following:
> HC 1000 PPM
> CO 7%
> CO2 3-4%
>
> An emission controlled OBDII car will produce numbers similar to the 
> following:
> HC 10 PPM (or less, I have seen smog tests that register 0)
> CO 0-.1%
> CO2 13% or so.
>
> So even if you assume a 100% conversion in the atmosphere of CO to CO2 
> you still come up short.  This is due to the hydrocarbon emissions.
>
> I stand by my comments.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     As older cars generaly use more fuel the CO2 emissions are higher
>     than in modern cars. You are confusing CO2 with NOx. If CO is high
>     NOx may be low and v.v., although it is an approximation.
>     The catalist reduces the emissions of smelly hydrocarbons
>     )unburned fuel), and no odour, poisonous CO, carbonmonoxide,
>     turning it into H2O, water, and CO2, carbondioxide, which an
>     asphixiate in much higher than natural concentrations.
>     The CO in the atmosphere is turned into CO2 by green plants and
>     algae, so although potentially unpleasant it has little effect in
>     open space. Very unpleasant are the hydrocarbons and NOx, they can
>     be the cause of smog and ozone with low winds, sunshine and high
>     temperatures in enclosed cities.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.0/2065 - Release Date: 04/17/09 17:52:00

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Apr 20 04:57:11 2009
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:57:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Endurance 100S
Message-ID: <E0345843D753644297A055322AD38B7D033EFD@dw01.ruda.local>

Hello out there,



can someone please explain to me why the 1954 Endurance Healey 100S did
not have a louvered bonnet? It had just the 100S bonnet latches and a
leather belt at 1/3 from the front of the bonnet and NO louvers in the
bonnet. No thermal problems?



Thanks enlightening me..



Thomas Willig

From rpmengr at bellsouth.net  Mon Apr 20 06:42:35 2009
From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 08:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2 questions
Message-ID: <49EC6DBB.1070901@bellsouth.net>

I have 2 unrelated questions I would appreciate some help on.
First, what have you found to be the best way or product to best clean 
alloy valve covers, etc.
Second, what is involved in replacing a BN1 3-speed tranny with a BN2 
four speed.
Thanks for your help.
Bob Memler, '54 BN1

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Apr 20 08:10:52 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 10:10:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] first motion shaft identity and  laygear endfloat
Message-ID: <d56.249f0f88.371ddc6c@aol.com>

I am not sure I understand what you are saying below. Did you have  the 
laygear machined & they didn't get the end perfectly perpendicular to  the 
center line of the laygear? How did you determine that the gear needed to be  
machined? Also, are you indicating that you are not using the original thrust  
bushing, but rather a larger non-original bushing? I  would be very  
concerned about installing a modified laygear with a thrust surface that is  not 
machined properly. 
Gary Hodson  
 
 
In a message dated 4/18/2009 7:35:11 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com writes:

Endfloat  on the laygear is between
.007-.0016. I read that .0012 is the limit, but  the end of the laygear is
not perfectly even (thanks to the machine shop).  The front of the box
contains the much larger bushing.  Shouldn't the  real thrust be toward the
large end anyway? 

**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Mon Apr 20 09:27:22 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 07:27:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Pertronix?=
Message-ID: <20090420152722.12095.qmail@hoster902.com>

I've fried three of them by doing the wrong things, but never had one go bad all by itself. Pertronix has replaced the first two under warranty and I haven't acted on the third yet.

My first one to go bad was due to an AutoZone coil which evidently developed an internal short and fed big voltage back through the unit.

I returned my second one in person and spoke with an engineer about it and he said to look at the label which was darkened and blistered, which is an indication of overheating. I had been trying to test the car by shorting out cylinders.

My third one was, I believe (still investigating this) fried by a Pertronix coil of improper resistance, which I purchased from Moss. I believe it was supposed to be used with a resistor but didn't know that at the time.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
BN6

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 20 09:46:03 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 08:46:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] first motion shaft identity and  laygear endfloat
In-Reply-To: <BOEMLBJLELMJGGDECHKJGEGBCAAA.rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
References: <BOEMLBJLELMJGGDECHKJGEGBCAAA.rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
Message-ID: <11B214C2-2E1A-405B-BDF2-4DE32D5E732B@sbcglobal.net>

Randy, the first motion shafts are not interchangable. The bearing  
sizes are completely different and you can not install one in place  
of the other.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 18, 2009, at 5:36 PM, randy dickson wrote:

> Fellow Healeyoids,
> I'm having trouble identifying which is the correct first motion  
> shaft.  I
> have two complete gearboxes plus lots of other parts.  It has been  
> awhile
> since I assembled a gearbox so I want to know which first motion  
> shaft goes
> with my BJ7 box.  I think that it is the AEC 3472 first motion  
> shaft.  I
> know that the BJ8 first motion and main shaft are different.  The  
> other
> first motion shaft is a 22 B140 (BJ8???).  It appears that on the  
> BJ7, the
> bearings (18) that accompany the first motion shaft are longer, and
> different than the BJ8 box.  I've got the BJ7 box mostly together  
> now with
> the first motion shaft installed.  I just want to double check,  
> that I have
> correct first motion shaft installed.  Endfloat on the laygear is  
> between
> .007-.0016. I read that .0012 is the limit, but the end of the  
> laygear is
> not perfectly even (thanks to the machine shop). The front of the box
> contains the much larger bushing.  Shouldn't the real thrust be  
> toward the
> large end anyway? I wonder how long the gearbox will last with a  
> larger
> endfloat?  Is it just noisier or does it fail quicker.  Thanks!
>
> Randy
> Healey-Archaeologist
> 63 BJ7
> 60 BT7
> 66 Cobra replica
> 06 Mini cooper S
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 20 09:51:35 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 08:51:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive failure
In-Reply-To: <20090419145107.7E21A187681@autox.team.net>
References: <20090419145107.7E21A187681@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A9E176A4-AFD5-413F-A5FD-52AD66C57FDF@sbcglobal.net>

Low pressure or the adjustment of the solenoid, If the solenoid is  
not lifting the operating rid high enough it will be slow to come  
into overdrive.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Apr 19, 2009, at 6:52 AM, Peter Schauss wrote:

> The first time this happened was last fall.  After driving the car  
> for about
> 20 minutes on the parkway, long enough for it to be fully warmed  
> up, the
> overdrive first started to engage very slowly.  Then it reached a  
> point
> where it would only engage if I took my foot off the gas and would  
> disengage
> as soon as I hit the gas again.  It felt like there was not enough  
> hydraulic
> pressure to keep it engaged.
>
> I replaced the o-ring on the accumulator and the solenoid and that  
> seemed to
> cure the problem until I took the car off the road for the winter.   
> I did
> notice, however, that when the car was warm, it did not seem to  
> snap into
> overdrive quite as quickly as before, but that may have been just my
> imagination.
>
> When I took the car out for the first time yesterday the overdrive  
> worked
> well until the car was fully warmed up.  Then it did the same thing  
> it had
> done last fall.
>
> Up until last fall, the overdrive had been working perfectly since  
> I bought
> the car 15 years (50k+ miles) ago except for burning out a couple of
> solenoids.  (I have had the gearbox apart several times to replace  
> the balk
> rings, lay gear, and first gear - the last time it was apart was 8  
> years
> ago.)
>
> I had switched to Redline MTL about a year before this happened.  
> When I
> replaced the o-ring last fall, I went back to non-detergent 30  
> weight oil
> since I suspected that I might have to open the unit again and did  
> not want
> to waste expensive oil.  I should also note that the old o-ring did  
> not seem
> to be particularly worn and fit just about at tightly as the new one.
>
> This time I am planning to replace the o-ring again, plus the rings  
> on the
> accumulator piston, and the spring on the check valve for the  
> pump.  Is
> there anything else that I should be considering?
>
> Does anyone make a gauge that I can use to test the hydraulic  
> pressure in
> this unit?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Apr 20 10:43:32 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:43:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands better than two
Message-ID: <COL109-W28CD962B9B10E792364915AD760@phx.gbl>

All this talk makes me just love my wife better. She has helped me numerous
times with the Healey and on other cars over the last almost 49 years.

She was almost pinned against the wall years ago, helping me pull an engine
and tranny from a falcon. She always finds new and specialized tools for both
working on the car and remodeling the house. She has given me tools that I did
not even know existed and made my life much easier for this. It is always
funny that all the specialized catalogs for tools sent to our house are
addressed to my wife!

Both my boys always loved to work on cars, both mine and theirs, and still do
to the point that our youngest has his own restoration business in Atlanta and
has several cars that he restored come across both the BJ auction lines (he
also did all the boby work and paint on my BJ7). It is great to keep it in the
family!

Bill

BJ7

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Apr 20 10:43:52 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:43:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet louvers
Message-ID: <d27.2b3be9f4.371e0048@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/20/09 8:48:23 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> can someone please explain to me why the 1954 Endurance Healey 100S did
> not have a louvered bonnet? It had just the 100S bonnet latches and a
> leather belt at 1/3 from the front of the bonnet and NO louvers in the
> bonnet. No thermal problems?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks enlightening me..
> 

The louvers were NOT originally to deal with thermal problems. Roger 
Moment, Tom Kovacs, and i spent some time looking at original pictures in Donald 
and Geoffrey Healey's books, and have determined that the evolution was: No 
louvers on the original 100s that raised at Le Mans (the original 100Ms), 
louvers on ONE side of the bonnet on the 100S that raced at Sebring, clearly 
cut there while on site, and pretty definitely to increase cool air going to 
the carburetors. Then, when the 100S was put into production, louvers were 
cut on both sides (because it looked better?) and fairly soon afterward, the 
"100M" bonnets were produced with louvers cut in the same places.
Ergo: louvers were originally cut to increase air to the carbs, and 
maintained because they looked "cool" whether or not they had any cooling effect on 
the engine.
Gary


**************
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 
easy steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220572844x1201387506/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D66807
2%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter420NO62)

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Apr 20 13:22:20 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:22:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Grille surround.
Message-ID: <000901c9c1ed$53af5820$fb0e0860$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Some guidance please...............
1) I have a MkII BT7. So, the chrome "grille surround" on my car has got a
rust hole in it. (Strange, as the rest of it really looks OK; this hole
seems to have appeared from nowhere!) I shall have to replace it or have it
repaired and rechromed. Any thoughts on that?
But, but....when I bought the car it came with the near obligatory box of
bits/pile of junk. Amongst these was a rather tatty looking "grille
surround" which I dug out of the attic today. After a good clean and polish
it looks OKish and I'm not sure about having it rechromed or not. I'll
probably have both the "top cowl" and the "grille surround" done as that's
such a pig of an area to work in that I may as well make it worthwhile with
rechromed parts? (I've got the wind deflectors, mud flap thingies et al so
it's a crowded area).
2) Anyhow.....I gather that the MkI grille area bits are different from the
MkII but the suppliers' diagrams and lists all seem a bit ambiguous to me. I
don't want to take mine apart until the autumn so I can't compare like with
like. Am I right in thinking that, if the piece is a sort of squashed
one-piece oval, then it'll fit a MKII BT7 as well as a BJ7 & a BJ8??
Simon.

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Apr 20 13:36:56 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:36:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet louvers
In-Reply-To: <d27.2b3be9f4.371e0048@aol.com>
References: <d27.2b3be9f4.371e0048@aol.com>
Message-ID: <gt9ATgXY7M7JFwhX@jharper.demon.co.uk>

May I add more detail. As you say the Le Mans cars were not fitted with 
louvers. However in the photographs Gary refers to the bonnets look up 
at the back. When I ask Roger Menadue about this he said that they 
slipped a piece of wood about 2" high under the back of the bonnet and 
then relied on the safety catch to keep the bonnet closed. This he said 
helped a great deal with the under bonnet temperature.

I have tried this myself and it does appear to help with fuel starvation

I have a BN1 100 Le Mans , modified at the Cape and this has no louvers. 
In fact if you look at sales literature put out by the Donald Healey 
Motor Company, no louvered bonnet was available on their price list.

A louvered bonnet does however appear in the later issues of the 100 BMC 
Parts List but not in the first, pink paged, issue dated March 1954 so 
it appears that BMC themselves did not recognise louvered bonnets on a 
100 until after that date but I am sure that if you approached the 
DHMoCo with enough cash they would sell or fit you one.

Regards
>
>
>The louvers were NOT originally to deal with thermal problems. Roger
>Moment, Tom Kovacs, and i spent some time looking at original pictures 
>in Donald
>and Geoffrey Healey's books, and have determined that the evolution was: No
>louvers on the original 100s that raised at Le Mans (the original 100Ms),
>louvers on ONE side of the bonnet on the 100S that raced at Sebring, clearly
>cut there while on site, and pretty definitely to increase cool air going to
>the carburetors. Then, when the 100S was put into production, louvers were
>cut on both sides (because it looked better?) and fairly soon afterward, the
>"100M" bonnets were produced with louvers cut in the same places.
>Ergo: louvers were originally cut to increase air to the carbs, and
>maintained because they looked "cool" whether or not they had any 
>cooling effect on
>the engine.
>Gary
>
-- 
John Harper

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Apr 20 14:01:22 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 13:01:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet louvers
In-Reply-To: <gt9ATgXY7M7JFwhX@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <d27.2b3be9f4.371e0048@aol.com>
	<gt9ATgXY7M7JFwhX@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D3D@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

The production 100S had no need for louvres as a carburetors air source.
They have their own cold air box with trunking down to the grill. I
would think they were for hot air escape.
Ken Freese
100S Registrar

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Harper
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 12:37 PM
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonnet louvers

May I add more detail. As you say the Le Mans cars were not fitted with
louvers. However in the photographs Gary refers to the bonnets look up
at the back. When I ask Roger Menadue about this he said that they
slipped a piece of wood about 2" high under the back of the bonnet and
then relied on the safety catch to keep the bonnet closed. This he said
helped a great deal with the under bonnet temperature.

I have tried this myself and it does appear to help with fuel starvation

I have a BN1 100 Le Mans , modified at the Cape and this has no louvers.

In fact if you look at sales literature put out by the Donald Healey
Motor Company, no louvered bonnet was available on their price list.

A louvered bonnet does however appear in the later issues of the 100 BMC
Parts List but not in the first, pink paged, issue dated March 1954 so
it appears that BMC themselves did not recognise louvered bonnets on a
100 until after that date but I am sure that if you approached the
DHMoCo with enough cash they would sell or fit you one.

Regards
>
>
>The louvers were NOT originally to deal with thermal problems. Roger
>Moment, Tom Kovacs, and i spent some time looking at original pictures
>in Donald and Geoffrey Healey's books, and have determined that the
>evolution was: No louvers on the original 100s that raised at Le Mans
>(the original 100Ms), louvers on ONE side of the bonnet on the 100S
>that raced at Sebring, clearly cut there while on site, and pretty
>definitely to increase cool air going to the carburetors. Then, when
>the 100S was put into production, louvers were cut on both sides
>(because it looked better?) and fairly soon afterward, the "100M"
>bonnets were produced with louvers cut in the same places.
>Ergo: louvers were originally cut to increase air to the carbs, and
>maintained because they looked "cool" whether or not they had any
>cooling effect on the engine.
>Gary
>
--
John Harper
_

From info at ragtops.com  Mon Apr 20 15:48:07 2009
From: info at ragtops.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 17:48:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 257
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21381.1240245908.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8AAF36871C5D4EDBA122885385656B5D@local>

unsubcribe

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 20 15:48:07 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 14:48:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater Part
In-Reply-To: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
References: <742886ACFB724637BDD607B6A494628D@FRED>
Message-ID: <9D76D570-915B-4235-91C0-D726D3817484@sbcglobal.net>

John, we have some of these available used.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 18, 2009, at 10:33 AM, John Snyder wrote:

> Does anyone have a decent, used bottom panel for the heater core  
> box for a
> BN7?  I'm doing a ground up restoration on a 1959 BN7 that has been  
> badly
> abused.  Some dumb P O threw the bottom panel away, probably  
> thinking he could
> get more heat this way.  Moss wants $45 for a simple sheet metal  
> panel.  This
> is going to be an expensive project, so would like to save a little  
> money on
> the simple stuff.
>
> John Snyder
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Apr 20 16:30:10 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 17:30:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 3, Issue 257
In-Reply-To: <8AAF36871C5D4EDBA122885385656B5D@local>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJOEHCDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Dave (AND everybody else with poor memories<G>):

<<unsubcribe>>

You canNOT, I REPEAT canNOT do it that way !!!  

Geesh, EVERYBODY receives a letter of conformation which 
EXPLAINS "HOW to un-sub" which I am SURE everybody 
has kept, right ?!?!?

That said, EVERY post HAS at the bottom, the following:
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>>
_______________________________________________

click on the 'listinfo' link and PRESTO, "A" 'method' to un-sub 
IS at the bottom of the page<G>!!

Should you really NOT wish to avail yourself of that 'method',
a eMail TO:  healeys-request at autox.team.net with NO 
"Subject:" and (sans quotes) "unsubscribe healeys" in the body
will trigger another 'method'.  Follow those instructions.

BTW, should want to be able to re-sub, KEEP the instructions
you receive when un-sub'ing!!!  Tis 'the reversal of above'<VBG>!

Ed

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 20 16:30:17 2009
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 15:30:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive failure
Message-ID: <564909.71718.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

"Does anyone make a gauge that I can use to test the hydraulic pressure in
this unit?"

See this url for details of the Overdrive Pressure Gauges I
produce and sell:

http://tinyurl.com/505s

brgds, Jay

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Apr 20 17:44:51 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 19:44:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grille surround.
In-Reply-To: <000901c9c1ed$53af5820$fb0e0860$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <000901c9c1ed$53af5820$fb0e0860$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <004001c9c211$ff768600$fe639200$@net>

Simon,

1. If at all possible, try to restore and reuse the upper brow piece. I've
had some bad experiences with after market brow pieces that are not even and
concentric, with more curve on one side than the other, and they're almost
impossible to reshape. Of course you'll need to trial fit the entire
assembly to the car and try not to harm paint.
The good news here is that in my experience the repro oval surround seems to
be quite a good piece and fits up well with the original brow piece and to
the car.

2. It is the same assembly for the BN7/BT7 Mk 2 as the BJ7 and BJ8. The
earlier 100/Six and early 3000 BN7/BT& grille parts are totally different
and parts cannot be interchanged.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 3:22 PM
To: 'austin healey'
Subject: [Healeys] Grille surround.

Some guidance please...............
1) I have a MkII BT7. So, the chrome "grille surround" on my car has got a
rust hole in it. (Strange, as the rest of it really looks OK; this hole
seems to have appeared from nowhere!) I shall have to replace it or have it
repaired and rechromed. Any thoughts on that?
But, but....when I bought the car it came with the near obligatory box of
bits/pile of junk. Amongst these was a rather tatty looking "grille
surround" which I dug out of the attic today. After a good clean and polish
it looks OKish and I'm not sure about having it rechromed or not. I'll
probably have both the "top cowl" and the "grille surround" done as that's
such a pig of an area to work in that I may as well make it worthwhile with
rechromed parts? (I've got the wind deflectors, mud flap thingies et al so
it's a crowded area).
2) Anyhow.....I gather that the MkI grille area bits are different from the
MkII but the suppliers' diagrams and lists all seem a bit ambiguous to me. I
don't want to take mine apart until the autumn so I can't compare like with
like. Am I right in thinking that, if the piece is a sort of squashed
one-piece oval, then it'll fit a MKII BT7 as well as a BJ7 & a BJ8??
Simon.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Apr 20 19:18:34 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 01:18:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
In-Reply-To: <49EBC6B6.9050200@comcast.net>
References: <49EB6691.6070506@comcast.net>
	<BAY144-W3756FAA70BC21B3B1E25F2A5790@phx.gbl>
	<49EBC6B6.9050200@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W42714307FD91967CE13D78A5770@phx.gbl>

Sorry, that's what I meant. Arc the field post with a hot wire from the
battery. When I changed my Rover to negative ground the field reverted to
positive ground after I let it sit for a while. I suppose the residual
magnetism was strong enough that i didn't arc it long enough. The second jolt
seemed to cure it.
Bill Lawrence

> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:49:58 -0400
> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
> To: ynotink at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Charging system
>
> Bill,
> I polarized the generator, but hadn't heard of doing so to the
> regulator.  I did change polarity in this process.  How do I do it?
> Thanks.
> Charlie
>
> WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>> Did you polarize the voltage regulator when you re-installed the
>> charging system? I changed polarity on my latest project (57 Land
>> Rover) and I had to arc the regulator twice before it decided I was
>> serious.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>>> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 13:59:45 -0400
>>> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
>>>
>>> Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
>>> cosmetic restoration. I had done the engine some years previously.
>>> This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5
>> speed
>>> conversion.
>>> Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
>>> worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on. Before
>>> the project everything had worked. I checked the generator in-situ as
>>> outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine. I
>>> also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
>>> location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
>>> the body.
>>> All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
>>> fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?
>>> Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
>>> Any suggestions are welcome.
>>> BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator? It
>>> worked before, why would it not now? It seems akin to the instructions
>>> in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
>>> Thanks.
>>> Charlie Baldwin
>>>
>>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a
>> name of mgcharlie.vcf]
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive

From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com  Mon Apr 20 19:34:56 2009
From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:34:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hands better than two
In-Reply-To: <COL109-W28CD962B9B10E792364915AD760@phx.gbl>
References: <COL109-W28CD962B9B10E792364915AD760@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B40C5F1229BC4AC09C3B6BD3B0C91D76@FredLaptop>

The only problem I've run into when Jeanice helps me sorting out problems on 
the racecar (going on 23 years now), is when she soooo innocently enquires 
as to whether I checked a certain part, to which I have sometimes not always 
patiently. Eating crow really is not all that tasty when it turns out that 
she was in fact correct, that I could saved several hours of grousing, 
mumbling and grumbling about the ancestry of the Healey, British Cars, and 
the state of the union.

But it sure is mighty fine having this good looking lady working with me on 
the car.

Cheers,

Fred Crowley
a.k.a. Team Healey Texas 

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 20 20:22:12 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 19:22:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] hot 100/4
Message-ID: <180884.45577.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Ken ,,, I always have on the shelf of my 100/4 a hose 1 1/2" by 3 1/2 " long that if I need to hold the temp of my engine down a little on a LONG climb on very hot days I put the hose over the hood pop up spring and make sure that the safety catch is holding ... it works ... Norman Nock

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 21:54:08 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 11:54:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
In-Reply-To: <443453684.2293871239801413983.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <ff59076c0904150433r76a83c3ehd0e5fd010e86f88@mail.gmail.com>
	<443453684.2293871239801413983.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904202054s12a27246tfb7dd9d19a5ed2ac@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

An alternative is to purchase 1/16" PTFE sheeting then cut sleeves from
that.  You will have to have some sort of shaft clamp to keep the sleeve
from coming out, I think SU may have some stuff that may work, or stuff from
an SU rebuild kit could work too.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheets-(made-with-teflon%C2%AE-ptfe)/=1ja9ym

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 9:16 PM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi Alan-
> Great idea. I should have searched their inventory a little harder. I
> haven't replaced the bushes yet, and I'll definitely use the teflon instead.
> Thanks for your input
>
> Thomas Leavy
> 451 Branchport Ave
> Oceanport, NJ 07757
> 908-433-9322
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: tomleavy at comcast.net
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 7:33:43 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Bush Removal - HD6 ??
>
> Tom -
>
> Have you tried a PTFE bushing in there instead of bronze? HD8 carbs use
> PTFE bushings and they really make a big difference - the shafts never wear
> and it is easy for me to get a rock steady idle at all temps on my HD8s.
>
> Was thinking this might be a better, longer lasting option.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#2639t7/=1gd3of
>
> I was thinking of just buying some of these, and then having them bored out
> to 5/16" at a machine shop.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 6:24 AM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Sorry, forgot to paste the link:
>>
>> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline00/1001/jasw.html
>>
>> Tom

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 20 22:05:12 2009
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 21:05:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 2 questions
Message-ID: <423754.49804.qm@web111406.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Bob
Take it to your local metal polisher.  They should make it shine like a new
silver dollar for thirty or forty bucks.
The trany question involves finding a bell housing.  They are out there. 
Regards
Ray Juncal
PS: Check out my web page <healeyray.com>

--- On Mon, 4/20/09, Bob Memler <rpmengr at bellsouth.net> wrote:

From: Bob Memler <rpmengr at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 2 questions
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 20, 2009, 5:42 AM

I have 2 unrelated questions I would appreciate some help on.
First, what have you found to be the best way or product to best clean alloy
valve covers, etc.
Second, what is involved in replacing a BN1 3-speed tranny with a BN2 four
speed.
Thanks for your help.
Bob Memler, '54 BN1
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyray at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 22:23:09 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 12:23:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2 questions
In-Reply-To: <49EC6DBB.1070901@bellsouth.net>
References: <49EC6DBB.1070901@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904202123k27f9c61dj1f032f77357ce22b@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

David Nock sells the bell housing and clutch shaft you need to convert to
four speed.  You'll need a side change 4 speed box and a BN2 tunnel cover (I
think the Nocks have this too).  You will also need a new clutch plate and
clutch bearing.  Your three speed OD will fit on the back of the 4 speed
box.  You should be able to re use your driveshaft since you aren't changing
the rear end.

Then again, if your 3 speed is working, why replace it?  If it was built
right at the factory, and you are keeping your engine stock, you run a
decent chance it won't break.

Polishing can be done at a machine shop, or you can do it yourself with a
rotary polisher.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 8:42 PM, Bob Memler <rpmengr at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I have 2 unrelated questions I would appreciate some help on.
> First, what have you found to be the best way or product to best clean
> alloy valve covers, etc.
> Second, what is involved in replacing a BN1 3-speed tranny with a BN2 four
> speed.
> Thanks for your help.
> Bob Memler, '54 BN1

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Apr 21 01:20:02 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:20:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Grille surround.
In-Reply-To: <004001c9c211$ff768600$fe639200$@net>
References: <000901c9c1ed$53af5820$fb0e0860$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<004001c9c211$ff768600$fe639200$@net>
Message-ID: <49ED73A2.8010504@chello.nl>

Simon,
One of our club members has had excellent results with difficult to 
restore chrome work with chrome paint spraying by a specialist firm. The 
results are astonishing. You could only detect the difference from real 
chrome by the touch: metal cold, paint less so.
It saved him a lot of work and costs as the preparation of the surface 
is much simpler for paintwork than for real chrome plating and the 
result is really stunning.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
> Subject: [Healeys] Grille surround.
>
> Some guidance please...............
> 1) I have a MkII BT7. So, the chrome "grille surround" on my car has got a
> rust hole in it. (Strange, as the rest of it really looks OK; this hole
> seems to have appeared from nowhere!) I shall have to replace it or have it
> repaired and rechromed. Any thoughts on that?
> But, but....when I bought the car it came with the near obligatory box of
> bits/pile of junk. Amongst these was a rather tatty looking "grille
> surround" which I dug out of the attic today. After a good clean and polish
> it looks OKish and I'm not sure about having it rechromed or not. I'll
> probably have both the "top cowl" and the "grille surround" done as that's
> such a pig of an area to work in that I may as well make it worthwhile with
> rechromed parts? (I've got the wind deflectors, mud flap thingies et al so
> it's a crowded area).
> 2) Anyhow.....I gather that the MkI grille area bits are different from the
> MkII but the suppliers' diagrams and lists all seem a bit ambiguous to me. I
> don't want to take mine apart until the autumn so I can't compare like with
> like. Am I right in thinking that, if the piece is a sort of squashed
> one-piece oval, then it'll fit a MKII BT7 as well as a BJ7 & a BJ8??
> Simon.
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 21 02:10:10 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 04:10:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go?  Question
Message-ID: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Parts manual calls it the "splash panel steady bracket".  ( Page R9 & R10,,,,
#2) There is one for each side of the car.
One end screws to the lower splash panel,   where does the other end connect
to?

I have looked in every Healey book that I have and this is a bit of an
unobtainable area that is
difficult to photograph with everything intact.

In fact there is a picture of them dangling from the front end of the red
Healey on the front
cover of April  Marque magazine.   But of course the one end is not attached
to anything
since the shroud is off.

Thanks,  Mark

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 21 02:16:59 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 04:16:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
Message-ID: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Its time to install the rear shroud.   Since this is an allum. to steel metal
connection area
would  SS  pop rivets be a reasonable choice for this area to cut down on the
corrosion
problem?   Or are the allum. pop rivets OK to use?

No  Conco??????  here mates,    I can't even spell the word with out getting
points knocked
off.     Gees

Mark

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 02:23:20 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:23:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
In-Reply-To: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904210123l2f9cc6d0wf067301a16569489@mail.gmail.com>

Mark -

Stick with aluminum.  SS pop rivets at some point may eventually wear out
the rivet holes in your shroud, not worth it.  They will also pass all the
galvanic corrosion energy to your shroud first, then the boot floor.  That
means it may actually increase the galvanic corrosion rates on your shroud
and make it worse.

I'd rather the pop rivet corrode out than the shroud or boot pan, they are
very easy to replace.  If you could get zinc rivets, that would be ideal.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Apr 21, 2009 at 4:16 PM, Mark LaPierre <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> Its time to install the rear shroud.   Since this is an allum. to steel
> metal
> connection area
> would  SS  pop rivets be a reasonable choice for this area to cut down on
> the
> corrosion
> problem?   Or are the allum. pop rivets OK to use?
>
> No  Conco??????  here mates,    I can't even spell the word with out
> getting
> points knocked
> off.     Gees
>
> Mark

From ampole at hotmail.com  Tue Apr 21 02:36:17 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 08:36:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 2 questions
In-Reply-To: <423754.49804.qm@web111406.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <423754.49804.qm@web111406.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W480E069FFD18653CCCD7F2D5770@phx.gbl>

Bob

Dennis Welch make new BN2 bell housings, not cheap though:



http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/gearbox?page=1



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From ampole at hotmail.com  Tue Apr 21 02:45:34 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 08:45:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go?  Question
In-Reply-To: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W82F7CF69E12CFEE8F9787D5770@phx.gbl>

Mark



Fits with the Grille.

Try this write up and diagram by Jean Caron:



http://www.ahcm.ca/newsletters/ahcmJun07.pdf



should answer your question.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Share your photos with Windows Live Photos  Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665338/direct/01/

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Apr 21 02:59:08 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 10:59:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
In-Reply-To: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <49ED8ADC.9050602@chello.nl>

Use aluminium poprivets. Stainless steel, aluminium and steel are a very 
corrosive combination. If possible insulate the steel sheet from the 
aluminium sheet with a sheet of plastic to minimise electrolitic corrosion.
I have used this system on my old Landrover and it works a treat.
Kees Oudesluijs

Mark LaPierre schreef:
> Its time to install the rear shroud.   Since this is an allum. to steel metal
> connection area
> would  SS  pop rivets be a reasonable choice for this area to cut down on the
> corrosion
> problem?   Or are the allum. pop rivets OK to use?
>
> No  Conco??????  here mates,    I can't even spell the word with out getting
> points knocked
> off.     Gees
>
> Mark

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Apr 21 07:06:26 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:06:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go?  Question
In-Reply-To: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <008601c9c281$fa66a350$ef33e9f0$@net>

Mark, 

These brackets attach onto the bottom left and right studs of the grille
assembly, along with the tabs of the grille teeth and the bottom of the air
shroud that directs air to the radiator. It's quite a sandwich of parts that
all mount to the same studs. These splash shields mount after the grille
assembly is basically in position. That way the grille teeth assembly can be
brought in from the side.

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:10 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go? Question

Parts manual calls it the "splash panel steady bracket".  ( Page R9 &
R10,,,,
#2) There is one for each side of the car.
One end screws to the lower splash panel,   where does the other end connect
to?

I have looked in every Healey book that I have and this is a bit of an
unobtainable area that is
difficult to photograph with everything intact.

In fact there is a picture of them dangling from the front end of the red
Healey on the front
cover of April  Marque magazine.   But of course the one end is not attached
to anything
since the shroud is off.

Thanks,  Mark
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Apr 21 07:14:41 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:14:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
In-Reply-To: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <008701c9c283$21b6c420$65244c60$@net>

In all practical sense, corrosion is not likely to occur in your lifetime
unless you drive through salt laden winter situations, which I hope wouldn't
be likely today. Regardless, make sure all surfaces are well painted before
assembly. Use the aluminum rivets. Realize that they were 3/16" diameter pop
rivets along the side flanges, and 1/8" solid blind rivets along the boot
lid lower lip and bottom flange to trunk floor lip. Most people today use
simple to install pop rivets.

The word you were looking for in NOT going is perhaps Concours??? Don't be
afraid, it only means "contest".<grin>

Rich Chrysler

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:17 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question

Its time to install the rear shroud.   Since this is an allum. to steel
metal
connection area
would  SS  pop rivets be a reasonable choice for this area to cut down on
the
corrosion
problem?   Or are the allum. pop rivets OK to use?

No  Conco??????  here mates,    I can't even spell the word with out getting
points knocked
off.     Gees

Mark

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Apr 21 08:23:35 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:23:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
In-Reply-To: <008701c9c283$21b6c420$65244c60$@net>
References: <001201c9c259$8b83ac30$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<008701c9c283$21b6c420$65244c60$@net>
Message-ID: <49EDD6E7.6080503@chello.nl>

Unless very pure, water is electro conductive due to contaminants thus 
electrolitic corrosion will take place if no measures are taken. Of 
course the process will be sped up considerably when there is salt on 
the roads, but I presume that every owner of a collectable 
classic/vintage/antique etc. car will do his utmost to avoid that, 
however you cannot always avoid the odd rain shower or bad weather at a 
show, trip or meet. And rain, sadly, is not pure water.
Helas, we're not all living in Californian conditions.
Kees Oudesluijs



Rich C schreef:
> In all practical sense, corrosion is not likely to occur in your lifetime
> unless you drive through salt laden winter situations, which I hope wouldn't
> be likely today. Regardless, make sure all surfaces are well painted before
> assembly. Use the aluminum rivets. Realize that they were 3/16" diameter pop
> rivets along the side flanges, and 1/8" solid blind rivets along the boot
> lid lower lip and bottom flange to trunk floor lip. Most people today use
> simple to install pop rivets.
>
> The word you were looking for in NOT going is perhaps Concours??? Don't be
> afraid, it only means "contest".<grin>
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:17 AM
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
>
> Its time to install the rear shroud.   Since this is an allum. to steel
> metal
> connection area
> would  SS  pop rivets be a reasonable choice for this area to cut down on
> the
> corrosion
> problem?   Or are the allum. pop rivets OK to use?
>
> No  Conco??????  here mates,    I can't even spell the word with out getting
> points knocked
> off.     Gees
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.1/2070 - Release Date: 04/20/09 17:56:00

From STOCKLAND at aol.com  Tue Apr 21 09:50:50 2009
From: STOCKLAND at aol.com (STOCKLAND at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 11:50:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
Message-ID: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>

Is there a simple way to check the toe in, toe out adjustment on the 3000  
Healey?  
 
Thanks,
 
Jon
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621490x1201450102/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter421NO62)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 21 10:22:56 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:22:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
In-Reply-To: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <523200845.127051240330976226.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yep. Get a tape measure and a friend or SO. Measure the distance from a point on a tire tread on one side of the front tire to the same point on the other front tire at the same height (usually, you can't go higher than about 6-8 inches). Repeat on the backside of the tire; same point on tread at approx. same height. This won't be absolutely accurate because due to camber the measurement would be different if you could measure at the center of the tire circumference, but it'll give you a ballpark idea. Alternatively, get a straight 2x4 and drill holes for vertical pointers and more-or-less repeat the process. 

Also, you can get a pretty good idea of camber using a digital level-- http://www.speedpartz.com/smarttool.htm --and a standoff bracket (measure at the rim bead, not at the sidewall because of the bulge). The SmartTool is surprisingly sensitive and, I presume, reasonably accurate. Be sure to account for any side-to-side slope of the car. 

Bob 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: STOCKLAND at aol.com 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 8:50:50 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment 

Is there a simple way to check the toe in, toe out adjustment on the 3000 
Healey? 

Thanks, 

Jon 

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Apr 21 10:40:56 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 11:40:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pop rivet Question
In-Reply-To: <008701c9c283$21b6c420$65244c60$@net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJGEIEDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<In all practical sense, corrosion is not likely to occur in your lifetime
unless you drive through salt laden winter situations, which I hope wouldn't
be likely today.>>

Truer words where never typed, Rich<G>!!

<<Regardless, make sure all surfaces are well painted before assembly.>>

If any of are worried about the dis-similar metals problem you could
do as is done with Fire Apparatus & Ambulances (frames ARE steel &
bodies Aluminum) which is to make your 'base primer' zinc oxide.
AND (as above) use Alum. rivets !

Me

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 21 10:41:31 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:41:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
In-Reply-To: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>
References: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CF16A471-77B0-4FDB-8108-19579AD5D2FE@sbcglobal.net>

Moss has a tool that works great  check part number 387-085




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 21, 2009, at 8:50 AM, STOCKLAND at aol.com wrote:

> Is there a simple way to check the toe in, toe out adjustment on  
> the 3000
> Healey?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in  
> just 2 easy
> steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621490x1201450102/aol? 
> redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc% 
> 3D668072%26
> hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter421NO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Tue Apr 21 11:15:08 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:15:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Wheel_Alignment?=
Message-ID: <20090421171508.28048.qmail@hoster902.com>

I have pix & a drawing for an easy home-made toe-in caliper that allows one to measure one foot off the ground in front and back of the front tires.
see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
PN6

From bjsbj8 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 11:18:37 2009
From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 13:18:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo
Message-ID: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>

A friend has a Smittys/Toyota 5 speed in his 64 3000. The speedometer
doesn't work. He says that there have been a few occasions when the
speedometer "caught" and worked for a bit, but usually it just doesn't
work. Anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for a
solution?

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From bj7ah at acanac.net  Tue Apr 21 13:59:14 2009
From: bj7ah at acanac.net (bj7ah)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:59:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
In-Reply-To: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>
References: <cb5.53642242.371f455a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1240343954.5929.3.camel@rob-laptop>

Hi Jon

      Went through this problem last Spring and if you go to these web
address's this is what i did with offset bushings. I used a level 


http://picasaweb.google.com/bj7healey/FrontEndAlignment20080812#

                http://picasaweb.google.com/bj7healey/MyHealyAlignment#

                                     Bob  1963 BJ7


 On Tue, 2009-04-21 at 11:50 -0400, STOCKLAND at aol.com wrote:

> Is there a simple way to check the toe in, toe out adjustment on the 3000  
> Healey?  
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Jon
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
> steps! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621490x1201450102/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26
> hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter421NO62)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bj7ah at acanac.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 17:48:42 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 07:48:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo
In-Reply-To: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904211648x69675c83sa8bcb293816331ef@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

There's nothing complicated about this.  The speedo needs to be
rebuilt by a specialist.  The average layman can't repair this type of
failure without risking destroying the delicate instrument.  It has
nothing to do with the conversion.

Suggest either Moma or Nisonger.

Alan

On 4/22/09, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> wrote:
> A friend has a Smittys/Toyota 5 speed in his 64 3000. The speedometer
> doesn't work. He says that there have been a few occasions when the
> speedometer "caught" and worked for a bit, but usually it just doesn't
> work. Anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for a
> solution?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 21 18:14:47 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 17:14:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904211648x69675c83sa8bcb293816331ef@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0904211648x69675c83sa8bcb293816331ef@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49EE6177.10205@comcast.net>

Nonetheless, if you want to open it up and have a look here's some help (the 
List will strip the attachment).  I haven't seen this failure mode, but it 
sounds as if the disk that drives the dial--by magnetism--is sticking. 
Possibly, the dial is hanging up inside the case.

Alan's right; there's fiddly bits in there but it's not impossible if you're 
patient and careful with the small parts.  The operation of the speedo is 
self-evident once you get inside.  There are parts available, but you'll need to 
search a bit.

I'd make sure the right-angle drive and/or cable aren't the problem first.

Bob


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Bob -
> 
> There's nothing complicated about this.  The speedo needs to be
> rebuilt by a specialist.  The average layman can't repair this type of
> failure without risking destroying the delicate instrument.  It has
> nothing to do with the conversion.
> 
> Suggest either Moma or Nisonger.
> 
> Alan
> 
> On 4/22/09, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> A friend has a Smittys/Toyota 5 speed in his 64 3000. The speedometer
>> doesn't work. He says that there have been a few occasions when the
>> speedometer "caught" and worked for a bit, but usually it just doesn't
>> work. Anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for a
>> solution?
>>
>> Bob Johnson
>> BJ8

>>
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Repairing Speedo-2002.pdf]

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 21 18:26:10 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 17:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
Message-ID: <231368.71534.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Gave the incorrect month , it is in the March issue of Healey Marque page
22        Norman Nock

--- On Sun, 4/19/09, Norman Nock <sjnnock at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: Norman Nock <sjnnock at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Charging system
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, April 19, 2009, 6:29 PM

Check Healey Marque I think it's Feb. 09 ... My Tech Article " the Charging
System " DO NOT TRY TO POLARIZE A LUCAS REGULATOR ... Norman Nock

--- On Sun, 4/19/09, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Charging system
To: "healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 19, 2009, 10:59 AM

Yesterday I got my BT7 tricarb running again after a several year
cosmetic restoration.  I had done the engine some years previously.
This latest work also included a new wiring harness and a Smitty 5 speed
conversion.
Before starting the car I verified that all of the electrical systems
worked, but after starting saw that the charging light was on.  Before
the project everything had worked.  I checked the generator in-situ as
outlined in the factory manual and it showed to be putting out fine.  I
also checked all of the connections at the regulator for the correct
location and tightness, including the ground.and where it attaches to
the body.
All seems fine, so before I blame the voltage regulator ( that worked
fine previously), is there anywhere else that I should be looking?
Perhaps taking the overdrive circuit out of the mix?
Any suggestions are welcome.
BTW, does anyone actually change the settings on the regulator?  It
worked before, why would it not now?  It seems akin to the instructions
in the manual for taking apart the clutch cover.
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
mgcharlie.vcf]
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

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From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 21 18:43:53 2009
From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steve)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 19:43:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <1D35A90ECA47451FAE98459AB8C1F42E@Healey1>

Hi All,
            I just bought a steering wheel restoration kit and was
wondering what type of paint I need to use when refinishing my steering
wheel.  I wouldn't think that you would use some paint out of a spray
can as it would probably flake off after use, even the new ones
especially for plastic.  Is a paint sold that is especially for steering
wheels or is it as simple as going to my local automotive paint store
and picking up a pint and shooting it with a spray gun, and if so, what
kind of paint should I request?  You can probably tell that I don't know
that much about the different types of paint and their applications.
 
Thanks,
Steve Meyer
'61 BN7

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 21 20:10:23 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 22:10:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks Rich,  But?
References: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<008601c9c281$fa66a350$ef33e9f0$@net>
Message-ID: <002001c9c2ef$7fb0b830$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Thanks for the heads up on that but, How does one reach the nuts for the 
splash panel once the grille assembly is in?  From under the car maybe?

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "'Mark LaPierre'" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Where Does it Go? Question


> Mark,
>
> These brackets attach onto the bottom left and right studs of the grille
> assembly, along with the tabs of the grille teeth and the bottom of the 
> air
> shroud that directs air to the radiator. It's quite a sandwich of parts 
> that
> all mount to the same studs. These splash shields mount after the grille
> assembly is basically in position. That way the grille teeth assembly can 
> be
> brought in from the side.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:10 AM
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go? Question
>
> Parts manual calls it the "splash panel steady bracket".  ( Page R9 &
> R10,,,,
> #2) There is one for each side of the car.
> One end screws to the lower splash panel,   where does the other end 
> connect
> to?
>
> I have looked in every Healey book that I have and this is a bit of an
> unobtainable area that is
> difficult to photograph with everything intact.
>
> In fact there is a picture of them dangling from the front end of the red
> Healey on the front
> cover of April  Marque magazine.   But of course the one end is not 
> attached
> to anything
> since the shroud is off.
>
> Thanks,  Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Apr 21 20:28:37 2009
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 02:28:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks Rich,  But?
In-Reply-To: <002001c9c2ef$7fb0b830$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000b01c9c258$97ead530$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
	<008601c9c281$fa66a350$ef33e9f0$@net> 
	<002001c9c2ef$7fb0b830$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY103-W527670D8F82F7AAEA3086ED1740@phx.gbl>

Mark:

Each splash panel is mounted with four screws, the brackets use nuts and they
are accessible from underneath the car.



Jean Caron

> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 22:10:23 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Thanks Rich, But?
>
> Thanks for the heads up on that but, How does one reach the nuts for the
> splash panel once the grille assembly is in? From under the car maybe?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "'Mark LaPierre'" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:06 AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Where Does it Go? Question
>
>
> > Mark,
> >
> > These brackets attach onto the bottom left and right studs of the grille
> > assembly, along with the tabs of the grille teeth and the bottom of the
> > air
> > shroud that directs air to the radiator. It's quite a sandwich of parts
> > that
> > all mount to the same studs. These splash shields mount after the grille
> > assembly is basically in position. That way the grille teeth assembly can
> > be
> > brought in from the side.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:10 AM
> > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Where Does it Go? Question
> >
> > Parts manual calls it the "splash panel steady bracket". ( Page R9 &
> > R10,,,,
> > #2) There is one for each side of the car.
> > One end screws to the lower splash panel, where does the other end
> > connect
> > to?
> >
> > I have looked in every Healey book that I have and this is a bit of an
> > unobtainable area that is
> > difficult to photograph with everything intact.
> >
> > In fact there is a picture of them dangling from the front end of the red
> > Healey on the front
> > cover of April Marque magazine. But of course the one end is not
> > attached
> > to anything
> > since the shroud is off.
> >
> > Thanks, Mark
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
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From al at bighealey.org  Wed Apr 22 07:34:29 2009
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:34:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale
Message-ID: <00aa01c9c34f$1103e370$330baa50$@org>

All:



If you are interested in a Healey predecessor, there is an Austin A-40 sport
for sale in Canada.  See:
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/04/21/healey-predecessor-1953-austin-a40-sport
/#more-





Al Fuller

al at bighealey.org

'62 BT-7

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 22 07:54:51 2009
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 13:54:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale
In-Reply-To: <00aa01c9c34f$1103e370$330baa50$@org>
References: <00aa01c9c34f$1103e370$330baa50$@org>
Message-ID: <BAY103-W10A1CAC16C34562529E832D1740@phx.gbl>

I am surprised they could sell that many after looking at the photo, lookwise
it's on par with a Pacer.



Jean Caron

> From: al at bighealey.org
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:34:29 -0400
> CC: semahc at chartermi.net; david.murphy at basf.com
> Subject: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale
>
> All:
>
>
>
> If you are interested in a Healey predecessor, there is an Austin A-40
sport
> for sale in Canada. See:
>
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/04/21/healey-predecessor-1953-austin-a40-sport
> /#more-
>
>
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
> al at bighealey.org
>
> '62 BT-7
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 07:59:39 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:59:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
Message-ID: <cf3.550475af.37207ccb@aol.com>

I would like to hear the experiences from anyone that has installed a Denis 
 Welch exhaust header #CEXS120 on a left hand drive 3000. I am aware of the 
 modifications required to the intake manifold & the outrigger (if not a  
BJ8). These areas are not where I am experiencing problems. 
Thanks,
Gary Hodson  
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
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From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr 22 08:17:50 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 07:17:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
In-Reply-To: <cf3.550475af.37207ccb@aol.com>
References: <cf3.550475af.37207ccb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F9964337-7720-4CE3-8D3A-8C64A30AB8FF@cox.net>

I have the stainless steel version of the header and have not  
installed it. I did test fit it and found major interference with the  
throttle actuating levers where the pedal shafts come up from the  
pedal box towards the overdrive relay and throttles.

I haven't et figured a solution. I bought the header over 10 years ago.

Wilko

On Apr 22, 2009, at 6:59 AM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> I would like to hear the experiences from anyone that has installed  
> a Denis
> Welch exhaust header #CEXS120 on a left hand drive 3000. I am aware  
> of the
> modifications required to the intake manifold & the outrigger (if  
> not a
> BJ8). These areas are not where I am experiencing problems.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere  
> on the
> web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
> (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003 
> )
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as e-wilkins at cox.net
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 22 09:11:00 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 08:11:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
In-Reply-To: <cf3.550475af.37207ccb@aol.com>
References: <cf3.550475af.37207ccb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F4DA19AB-1E5E-4BD0-875A-CED4A8AB3FA4@sbcglobal.net>

I have used them for about 8 years and also have 3 here in the shop  
with them installed, We also have about 5 others installed on  
customer cars. Other than a couple of small mods to the bottom side  
of the intake manifolds, removing the manifold drains and modifying  
the front out rigger if it is not a BJ8 we have only had one that was  
a problems. The pipes did not line up parrallel to the muffler. We  
ended up having to cut the pipe just below the junction and making a  
new pipe with matching bends and welding onto the headers.



What is the problem you are having?





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..

On Apr 22, 2009, at 6:59 AM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote:

> I would like to hear the experiences from anyone that has installed  
> a Denis
>  Welch exhaust header #CEXS120 on a left hand drive 3000. I am  
> aware of the
>  modifications required to the intake manifold & the outrigger (if  
> not a
> BJ8). These areas are not where I am experiencing problems.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere  
> on the
> web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
> (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html? 
> ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Apr 22 09:42:45 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 08:42:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I am tired of storing my collection of Car and Driver magazines. Pretty
complete back to 1962. I am not inclined to learn how to sell on EBAY.
Any suggestions?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Wed Apr 22 09:49:35 2009
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 08:49:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <7D89790D-4AB6-4867-9D47-1B76540654DD@cox.net>

There's craigslist.

Fairly easy.

On Apr 22, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> I am tired of storing my collection of Car and Driver magazines.  
> Pretty
> complete back to 1962. I am not inclined to learn how to sell on EBAY.
> Any suggestions?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From CAWS52803 at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 09:57:25 2009
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 11:57:25 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
Message-ID: <d54.4cd2ba8f.37209865@aol.com>

You would be surprised how cheap these magazines are after 40-50 years.  I 
found a whole years worth of National Geographic from 1936 (my birth year) 
for $1.
With my older magazines, I take them, if auto related to the club meetings, 
to share and others I take to my doctor's office to update his selection.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
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From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 10:12:08 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 12:12:08 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
Message-ID: <bdf.4d6816d1.37209bd8@aol.com>

The car is a Left Hand Drive 1964 Phase 1 BJ8. (Healey Ice Blue metallic,  
if that makes a difference!)
The #1 exhaust pipe hits the angled support (the support that goes from  
near the master cylinders down to the frame). The #1 pipe misses the steering  
column be less than 1/32" which I do not feel is enough clearance. 
The #2 & 3 pipes hit the top of the motor mount. 
The  #6 pipe hits the angled insulation board on the toe  box.
In addition. the header cannot be installed with the studs in the head. The 
 studs must be removed, then the header offered up into position & then the 
 studs re-installed. I don't know if this is normal or not.
The engine was recently installed with rebuilt motor mounts including new  
rubber. However, the motor mounts are the non-handed type from a 100/6. I 
don't  see how this could be the cause of the interferences, however I have 
purchased a  set of proper BJ8 mounts & new rubber & will swap out the mounts 
to  eliminate this variable. 
How these mounts ended up on my BJ8 remains a mystery. Why every thing  I 
try to install requires modification is also a mystery.
Gary Hodson 
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2009 10:11:18 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net writes:

What is the problem you are  having?


**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Apr 22 10:21:21 2009
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:21:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
In-Reply-To: <d54.4cd2ba8f.37209865@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1408188266.5455131240417281586.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Car and driver from the 60s and 70s have value.B  National Geographic
magazines are usually give aways.B  If you advertise them on Craigslist for
the whole collection for a couple hundred dollars (if complete from 62) then
someone wil definately buy it.




----- Original Message -----
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com
To: e-wilkins at cox.net, "Kendall Freese" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 11:57:25 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines

You would be surprised how cheap these magazines are after 40-50 years. B I
found a whole years worth of National Geographic from 1936 (my birth year)
for $1.
With my older magazines, I take them, if auto related to the club meetings,
to share and others I take to my doctor's office to update his selection.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 10:25:14 2009
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 06:25:14 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <aaee2eba.85a3.4f93.b7c2.3ad321d76170@aol.com>

Ken 
I tried for a year or more to excise the large Car and Driver collection we had accumulated. Maybe ten boxes. In the end I felt an interesting pleasure in watching the boxes fall twenty feet to the concrete floor of the trash collection station one early Saturday morning.  The boxes crashed to the hard surface, bursting under the weight of the magazines and spread across the floor in a interesting sea of colors. I started throwing them onto different parts of the floor to watch the display.  Not quite like a tropical sunset but interesting.....perhaps like scattering ashes.  Still have the R&T collection but that is for another day!
Aloha
Perry 



In a message dated 04/22/09 05:43:20 Hawaiian Standard Time, Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com writes:
I am tired of storing my collection of Car and Driver magazines. Pretty 
complete back to 1962. I am not inclined to learn how to sell on EBAY. 
Any suggestions? 
Ken Freese 
65 BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 

From frank.powell at quixotecorp.com  Wed Apr 22 10:41:57 2009
From: frank.powell at quixotecorp.com (frank.powell at quixotecorp.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 12:41:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
In-Reply-To: <7D89790D-4AB6-4867-9D47-1B76540654DD@cox.net>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D5F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<7D89790D-4AB6-4867-9D47-1B76540654DD@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0FFBEA6A1BBCB647BC858D19F7216B3802644353@ANSVEXCHBE01.qts.quixote.prv>

You could give them to a local car museum. They could keep them or sell
them.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 8:50 AM
To: Freese, Ken
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines

There's craigslist.

Fairly easy.

On Apr 22, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> I am tired of storing my collection of Car and Driver magazines.
> Pretty
> complete back to 1962. I am not inclined to learn how to sell on EBAY.
> Any suggestions?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frank.powell at quixotecorp.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Apr 22 11:05:39 2009
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 10:05:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo
In-Reply-To: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ce473f960904211018j4f6bbdei825659cddef2b04e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7C92068D2B40460E81958FC3041D4902@LeonardPCPC>

In speedometers that have failed on me, the problem you describe has been 
due to the small 'nylon' or plastic gears that drive the numbers splitting 
on their shafts causing two teeth to have a wider gap between them.  The 
driving gear then jams up where split because it can not mesh properly. 
Replacement of the broken gear has solved the problem.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8 at gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:18 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo


>A friend has a Smittys/Toyota 5 speed in his 64 3000. The speedometer
> doesn't work. He says that there have been a few occasions when the
> speedometer "caught" and worked for a bit, but usually it just doesn't
> work. Anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for a
> solution?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From alan.bromfield at virgin.net  Wed Apr 22 11:06:09 2009
From: alan.bromfield at virgin.net (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:06:09 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
In-Reply-To: <bdf.4d6816d1.37209bd8@aol.com>
References: <bdf.4d6816d1.37209bd8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2311F24CE73B4247970D0F494E9FE1D8@Dell>

Gary.
I'm not sure if this is the answer to the problem but it sounds like your
engine is higher up than it should be. In my experience the problem arises
because the large rubber engine mounts are slightly thicker than originals
and also the two metal backing plates are bonded to the sandwich slightly
offset to each other. The diagonal offset jacks the engine up around half an
inch higher than it should be and creates all sorts of clearance problems.
It also tilts the engine slightly - up at the front and down at the rear. If
the problem isn't fixed, the slight angle will cause the rear of the
silencer to be even lower - as if the box isn't low enough!  

When you are swopping out the 100/6 mounts for handed BJ8 ones take a side
view of the rubber mount. You will see what I mean.

AlanB
www.nfahc.co.uk

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: 22 April 2009 17:12
To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust header

The car is a Left Hand Drive 1964 Phase 1 BJ8. (Healey Ice Blue metallic,  
if that makes a difference!)
The #1 exhaust pipe hits the angled support (the support that goes from  
near the master cylinders down to the frame). The #1 pipe misses the
steering  
column be less than 1/32" which I do not feel is enough clearance. 
The #2 & 3 pipes hit the top of the motor mount. 
The  #6 pipe hits the angled insulation board on the toe  box.
In addition. the header cannot be installed with the studs in the head. The 
 studs must be removed, then the header offered up into position & then the 
 studs re-installed. I don't know if this is normal or not.
The engine was recently installed with rebuilt motor mounts including new  
rubber. However, the motor mounts are the non-handed type from a 100/6. I 
don't  see how this could be the cause of the interferences, however I have 
purchased a  set of proper BJ8 mounts & new rubber & will swap out the
mounts 
to  eliminate this variable. 
How these mounts ended up on my BJ8 remains a mystery. Why every thing  I 
try to install requires modification is also a mystery.
Gary Hodson 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 22 12:07:57 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:07:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Smittys and Speedo
In-Reply-To: <7C92068D2B40460E81958FC3041D4902@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <307046041.682761240423677959.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I had the exact same problem with my speedo, except it manifested itself with a periodic jump from an otherwise solid indicator. I was able to glue the crack and glued a nylon washer on the outside for reinforcement. Had to file the gears a bit with a jeweler's file to get smooth meshing. 


Bob 



In speedometers that have failed on me, the problem you describe has been 
due to the small 'nylon' or plastic gears that drive the numbers splitting 
on their shafts causing two teeth to have a wider gap between them. The 
driving gear then jams up where split because it can not mesh properly. 
Replacement of the broken gear has solved the problem. 

(The Other) Len 
Vacaville, CA, USA 
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Apr 22 13:12:49 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 11:12:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?exhaust_header?=
Message-ID: <20090422191249.18681.qmail@hoster902.com>

Re: installing header on head studs.

If necessary, you can replace some of the head studs with 1-1/4" long socket-head set screws - these can be inserted with the manifold loosely in place. This might help on the DW install - worked on my Kirk/DMD install.

--
Steve Gerow 
BN6

From wbagby45 at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 16:05:48 2009
From: wbagby45 at aol.com (WBagby45)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:05:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
Message-ID: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>

I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?

Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel restoration?

Thanks,

Wright Bagby

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Apr 22 17:14:24 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:14:24 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale
In-Reply-To: <BAY103-W10A1CAC16C34562529E832D1740@phx.gbl>
References: <00aa01c9c34f$1103e370$330baa50$@org>
	<BAY103-W10A1CAC16C34562529E832D1740@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA01016AFDFE@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day Jean

Yes the styling of Austin A40 Sports is a matter of taste, as is its bigger
brother the original Austin powered Jensen Interceptor.

However it has to be remember that if it didn't exist I doubt we would now
have Austin-Healeys as we know them.

The original Healey 100 was slated to be a smaller production like the other
Healey cars. Directly after the connection with Austin in 1952 production
looked as if it was going to be slightly larger with Tickford constructing the
bodywork.

It was only after when Jensen Brothers were suggested that Leonard Lord
reflected on the excellent job they were doing on the A40 Sports that they
received the contract for the new Austin-Healey 100.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jean Caron
Sent: Wednesday, 22 April 2009 11:55 PM
To: al at bighealey.org; healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: semahc at chartermi.net; david.murphy at basf.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale

I am surprised they could sell that many after looking at the photo, lookwise
it's on par with a Pacer.



Jean Caron

> From: al at bighealey.org
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:34:29 -0400
> CC: semahc at chartermi.net; david.murphy at basf.com
> Subject: [Healeys] Austin A-40 sport for sale
>
> All:
>
>
>
> If you are interested in a Healey predecessor, there is an Austin A-40
sport
> for sale in Canada. See:
>
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/04/21/healey-predecessor-1953-austin-a40-sport
> /#more-
>
>
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
> al at bighealey.org
>
> '62 BT-7
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From glwilkie at bigpond.com  Wed Apr 22 18:57:46 2009
From: glwilkie at bigpond.com (Graham and Lorraine Wilkie)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 10:57:46 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49EFBD0A.4010305@bigpond.com>

Hi Wright,

I had my steering wheel restored back in 2003, by Koch's Steering Wheel 
Restorations located in California, and was very happy with the result. 
You can check them out at www.kochssteeringwheels.com

Sorry I can't help you with a source for the adjustable steering lock; I 
found mine on eBay.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
BJ8

WBagby45 wrote:
> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as glwilkie at bigpond.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.12.3/2075 - Release Date: 04/22/09 17:25:00

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Apr 22 19:41:33 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 11:41:33 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FEA79A0C57FB4ABA963CB57B39C5211B@PeterPC>

G'day Wright

I'd just taken photos of this to list on Ebay when your mail came through - 
is this what you're looking for?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WBagby45" <wbagby45 at aol.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 8:05 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1


>I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing 
>the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite 
>different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel 
> restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Steering wheel1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Steering wheel3.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Steering wheel4.JPG]

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Apr 22 20:11:41 2009
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 21:11:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
In-Reply-To: <523200845.127051240330976226.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>

You gents CONTINUE to work WAY to hard<G>!!!

<<Yep. Get a tape measure>>

Yep, agreed all.

<<and a friend or SO.>>

Well, a pretty 'friend' or SO to hand you a brew WOULD be NICE but
un-necessary for the job.

<<Measure the distance from a point on a tire tread on one side of the front
tire to the same point on the other front tire at the same height (usually,
you can't go higher than about 6-8 inches). Repeat on the backside of the
tire; same point on tread at approx. same height. This won't be absolutely
accurate because due to camber the measurement would be different if you
could measure at the center of the tire circumference, but it'll give you a
ballpark idea.>>

While the basic info is good, STILL TOO much work<G>!!!

Procure two (2) pieces of STRING 20' - 25' long and lay out on each side
of the car.  Tie BOTH via a NON-slip loop to the boot lid handle then run
each below overrider and run across the back tyre as close to center as
K/O allows using tyre tread to 'position' and continue to front of car and
running said string across same location(s) on front tyre and tie-off just
in-board of front O/R (securely & snugly)!!  Same on both sides of car.

Oh oops;  I WAS 'assuming' (yes, I know<G>) car on nice level surface
with wheels straight ahead.

At this point there 'should' be a gap from string to (front) tyre EITHER
at the back OR front.  You may have to turn steering wheel either right or
left so that ONE front tyre has string against BOTH front & rear face of
said tyre.  The other side may have a measurable 'gap'.

Adjust tie-rod in direction required to obtain ZERO gap (for BOTH tyres).

With radial tyres, you ARE now 'adjusted' (and as close as radials will
allow).

Once you have done it, it's a 5 mt. job on practically any LBC (and a LOT of
other cars [that have +/- 1/8" spec] ).

Ed
Please visit MY site at:		www.justbrits.com

PS:  You may have seen this method done (in very near past) in NASCAR
and I think I once saw in Indy cars.  Those guys are going a LOT faster
than our Healeys EVER (street cars<G>) will !!!  LOL

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Wed Apr 22 20:34:24 2009
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 19:34:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
In-Reply-To: <1408188266.5455131240417281586.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1408188266.5455131240417281586.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49EFD3B0.8060709@qwest.net>

These things are dangerous, this article clearly spells out the dangers 
of keeping, for example,  National Geographic magazines (after all, 
these are nearly impossible to throw away....as the article states, most 
people look at the Nat Geo as a monthly edition of the Bible, with a 
huge circulation, and over 175 years of monthly issues by now!)

http://www.jir.com/geographic.html

read and enjoy...lol

bob walker
phx, az

m.brouillette at comcast.net wrote:
> Car and driver from the 60s and 70s have value.B  National Geographic
> magazines are usually give aways.B  If you advertise them on Craigslist for
> the whole collection for a couple hundred dollars (if complete from 62) then
> someone wil definately buy it.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: CAWS52803 at aol.com
> To: e-wilkins at cox.net, "Kendall Freese" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 11:57:25 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
>
> You would be surprised how cheap these magazines are after 40-50 years. B I
> found a whole years worth of National Geographic from 1936 (my birth year)
> for $1.
> With my older magazines, I take them, if auto related to the club meetings,
> to share and others I take to my doctor's office to update his selection.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
> **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
> web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
> (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.brouillette at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thewalkers at qwest.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 22 20:55:46 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 10:55:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904221955x1736169ek7e98116f0a27a0d@mail.gmail.com>

Wright -

Yes, the early BN1 steering wheel is somewhat unique.  In addition to
the adjusting nut, the spokes are slightly tapered toward the rim and
there should be a larger gap between the 2nd and 3rd spokes.

Send the steering wheel to Pearlcraft in Australia for restoration.
Prices are high, but quality is first rate, you can google it.  That
being said with the exchange rate the restoration cost is about half
of anyoune in the US.  There's even a picture of Bill Emerson and his
Westland on their website!

I don't have an idea on the locking nut, just keep trying the various
AH specialists, someone should have it.

Alan

On 4/23/09, WBagby45 <wbagby45 at aol.com> wrote:
> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the
> screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different
> from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel
> restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Wed Apr 22 22:15:36 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 14:15:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <20090423141536.15135v3ay6wocns8@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Quoting Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com>:

> You gents CONTINUE to work WAY to hard<G>!!!
>
> <<Yep. Get a tape measure>>
>
> Yep, agreed all.
>
> <<and a friend or SO.>>
>
> Well, a pretty 'friend' or SO to hand you a brew WOULD be NICE but
> un-necessary for the job.
> 

GREAT 

Ed's back with more no - bull basics. 

I reckon thats just how Roger Menadue would have done it in the pits at LeMans 

Joe ( who has meet Roger )

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 22 22:37:31 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 00:37:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
Message-ID: <FFCE8818479A4A30B63A4960FC553D83@ophrdc.org>

[Healeys] Early BN1Wright,

It seems the same locking collar was used with a number of other aftermarket
wood accessory wheels. I have just yesterday sourced and promised one to a
fellow here in Southern Ontario with an early BN1. The wheel itself has no
markings or brand name on it. The collar is much smaller than the later 6
cylinder adjustable collar. It measures approx. 1 7/8" diameter by 1 1/2"
thick with 8 slight finger indentations in the rear half of the outer surface.
It has the following stamped into the outer black plastic surface:
ADJUSTABLE WHEEL
BLUEMEL'S
PAT. NO. 494902

So the collar might not be as rare as originally thought.
Happy hunting

Rich Chrysler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: WBagby45
  To: Healey List
  Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 6:05 PM
  Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1


  I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the
screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different
from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?

  Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel
restoration?

  Thanks,

  Wright Bagby
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Healeys at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Apr 22 23:51:31 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 13:51:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904222251n79779613o571fad318729ce4d@mail.gmail.com>

Another thought, try sending an email to this guy:

john at johnkimble.com

I think he has some of the old steering wheel tooling and may be able to
help.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 6:05 AM, WBagby45 <wbagby45 at aol.com> wrote:

> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing
> the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite
> different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel
> restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fiat500f at aol.com  Wed Apr 22 23:33:46 2009
From: fiat500f at aol.com (Paul Barnes)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 01:33:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.
Message-ID: <8DCD6F548A3F41748AA02F9F0498CF6F@deepthought42>

Two quick BN1 (BN1L/153829) rear leaf spring related questions please:

1.  Regarding the aluminum wedge between the axle and the spring, which end
(fat or thin) goes toward the front?
2.  Does anyone have a used wedge I could purchase?  When reinstalling the
spring that had a wedge, I'd forgotten which way the wedge should be
positioned.  When I looked at the other spring to reference the wedge
direction, I saw that that wedge was broken in half, and half was was gone!
The wedge is made of aluminum and has the part number, 1B7352, stamped/cast
into it.  My e-mail is fiat500f at aol.com.

Paul B.
(Still helping my friend with his 1954 BN1)  :)

From glwilkie at bigpond.com  Thu Apr 23 01:30:37 2009
From: glwilkie at bigpond.com (Graham and Lorraine Wilkie)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 17:30:37 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake / Clutch Fluid In Australia?
Message-ID: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>

Hello,

I have relocated permanently back to Australia after residing in the USA 
for several years; I shipped my BJ8 back home with me.

I need to replace the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder, and wish 
to flush and bleed the brake fluid as well. My problem is that I cannot 
obtain Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid here, which I was using in the USA. I 
have been advised that Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid is not available in 
Australia.

I am looking for an alternative brake / clutch fluid readily obtainable 
in Australia. I have been told by the local auto parts shop retailer 
that "Castrol Response Dot 4" and "Castrol Response Super Dot 4" are 
acceptable, as is "Penrite Brake Fluid 525 Super Dot 4".

I thought it might be prudent to ask for counsel from Healey owners / 
drivers on the matter before making a decision. Any advice would be 
greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
BJ8.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 23 01:42:59 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:42:59 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49F01C03.9010508@chello.nl>

Wright,
There is a AH Moto-Lita adjustable hub for sale on Ebay at present. It 
may suit your car?
In Europe a lot of classic cars have been fitted with Moto-Lita steering 
wheels, including many if not most AH's.
See:

http://cgi.ebay.nl/MOTO-LITA-B7-S-WHEEL-ADJ-HUB-ADAPTER-HEALEY-3000_W0QQitemZ120400943006QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120400943006&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A10|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Kees Oudesluijs

WBagby45 schreef:
> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Apr 23 02:40:22 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 10:40:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
In-Reply-To: <49F01C03.9010508@chello.nl>
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
	<49F01C03.9010508@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BE549@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

 "critin", the French would say to your suggestion!!

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Oudesluys
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 23. April 2009 09:43
An: WBagby45
Cc: Healey List
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1

Wright,
There is a AH Moto-Lita adjustable hub for sale on Ebay at present. It may
suit your car?
In Europe a lot of classic cars have been fitted with Moto-Lita steering
wheels, including many if not most AH's.
See:

http://cgi.ebay.nl/MOTO-LITA-B7-S-WHEEL-ADJ-HUB-ADAPTER-HEALEY-3000_W0QQitemZ
120400943006QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120
400943006&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A10|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Kees Oudesluijs

WBagby45 schreef:
> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing the
screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite different
from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a source?
>
> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel
restoration?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wright Bagby

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Apr 23 02:59:45 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 16:59:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake / Clutch Fluid In Australia?
In-Reply-To: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
References: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904230159r7e3ac67clb3f1be2d54165536@mail.gmail.com>

Graham -

Brake fluids, Dot 4 and Dot 3, are interchangeable and can be mixed between
brands.

The main thing is to look for a fluid that reduces its absorption of H20.
This is why LMA is preferred by so many Healey Owners.  So pick the one that
says it has additives to reduce H20 absorption.

That being said if you switch to a new brand of fluid, doing a full bleed on
the system would be recommended anyway - you're supposed to bleed your
system every 2 years anyhoo.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 3:30 PM, Graham and Lorraine Wilkie <
glwilkie at bigpond.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have relocated permanently back to Australia after residing in the USA
> for several years; I shipped my BJ8 back home with me.
>
> I need to replace the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder, and wish to
> flush and bleed the brake fluid as well. My problem is that I cannot obtain
> Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid here, which I was using in the USA. I have been
> advised that Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid is not available in Australia.
>
> I am looking for an alternative brake / clutch fluid readily obtainable in
> Australia. I have been told by the local auto parts shop retailer that
> "Castrol Response Dot 4" and "Castrol Response Super Dot 4" are acceptable,
> as is "Penrite Brake Fluid 525 Super Dot 4".
>
> I thought it might be prudent to ask for counsel from Healey owners /
> drivers on the matter before making a decision. Any advice would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
> BJ8.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 23 03:51:35 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 11:51:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake / Clutch Fluid In Australia?
In-Reply-To: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
References: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <49F03A27.5040405@chello.nl>

Graham,
As Castrol GT LMA is not a silicon based fluid (DOT 3-4) you can use any 
high quality DOT 4 brake fluid.
Flush the brake and clutch circuits using an Easy Bleed or similar if 
the master cilinders are not recently renewed or overhauled.
The usual pumping method may damage the seals when they are pushed over 
the ring of crud that forms over a period in the master cilinders.
Kees Oudesluijs


Graham and Lorraine Wilkie schreef:
> Hello,
>
> I have relocated permanently back to Australia after residing in the 
> USA for several years; I shipped my BJ8 back home with me.
>
> I need to replace the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder, and wish 
> to flush and bleed the brake fluid as well. My problem is that I 
> cannot obtain Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid here, which I was using in 
> the USA. I have been advised that Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid is not 
> available in Australia.
>
> I am looking for an alternative brake / clutch fluid readily 
> obtainable in Australia. I have been told by the local auto parts shop 
> retailer that "Castrol Response Dot 4" and "Castrol Response Super Dot 
> 4" are acceptable, as is "Penrite Brake Fluid 525 Super Dot 4".
>
> I thought it might be prudent to ask for counsel from Healey owners / 
> drivers on the matter before making a decision. Any advice would be 
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
> BJ8.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.3/2075 - Release Date: 04/22/09 17:25:00

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Apr 23 04:57:03 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:57:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake / Clutch Fluid In Australia?
In-Reply-To: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
References: <49F0191D.60908@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <3CBBBCA06EB64A8E841A051FABA29CD2@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Graham

I wouldn't go past the Penrite product. Plus give their technical help line
a call if you have any questions.

I recently rebuilt the front brakes on my car and bought the Penrite fluid
from my local motor accessory outlet.

I don't have you on my list of Healeys and Austin-Healeys in Australia and
would appreciate if you could send me your details including the chassis and
engine numbers of your car.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Graham and Lorraine Wilkie
Sent: Thursday, 23 April 2009 5:31 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake / Clutch Fluid In Australia?

Hello,

I have relocated permanently back to Australia after residing in the USA 
for several years; I shipped my BJ8 back home with me.

I need to replace the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder, and wish 
to flush and bleed the brake fluid as well. My problem is that I cannot 
obtain Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid here, which I was using in the USA. I 
have been advised that Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid is not available in 
Australia.

I am looking for an alternative brake / clutch fluid readily obtainable 
in Australia. I have been told by the local auto parts shop retailer 
that "Castrol Response Dot 4" and "Castrol Response Super Dot 4" are 
acceptable, as is "Penrite Brake Fluid 525 Super Dot 4".

I thought it might be prudent to ask for counsel from Healey owners / 
drivers on the matter before making a decision. Any advice would be 
greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
BJ8.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 23 06:59:50 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 08:59:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1
References: <e55bec1c.cec2.49a3.9eb6.bca3e927c204@aol.com>
	<49F01C03.9010508@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <5EF1DC1736D84088BBF7CE2CC7850A31@ophrdc.org>

I looked at this hub on Ebay and it's not even close. Please read the 
description I posted yesterday giving size and description.

Rich

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: "WBagby45" <wbagby45 at aol.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1


> Wright,
> There is a AH Moto-Lita adjustable hub for sale on Ebay at present. It may 
> suit your car?
> In Europe a lot of classic cars have been fitted with Moto-Lita steering 
> wheels, including many if not most AH's.
> See:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.nl/MOTO-LITA-B7-S-WHEEL-ADJ-HUB-ADAPTER-HEALEY-3000_W0QQitemZ120400943006QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120400943006&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A10|39%3A1|240%3A1318
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> WBagby45 schreef:
>> I am working on a very early BN1 with adjustable steering.  I am missing 
>> the screw type locking mechanism for the steering wheel.  It is quite 
>> different from the later cars.  Would anyone have one of these or a 
>> source?
>>
>> Also would like some suggestions on those that do steering wheel 
>> restoration?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Wright Bagby
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Apr 23 08:45:13 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 10:45:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
Message-ID: <cdd.4d5bf25c.3721d8f9@aol.com>

Alan,
I have suspected that the engine might be sitting higher. It is 1/2"
higher when compared it to a friend's engine that was installed  approx. 10 
years ago with new rubber. Of course, I would expect mine to  settle some 
over time.
Gary   
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2009 12:06:45 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
alan.bromfield at virgin.net writes:

Gary.
I'm not sure if this is the answer to the problem but it  sounds like your
engine is higher up than it should be. In my experience  the problem arises
because the large rubber engine mounts are slightly  thicker than originals
and also the two metal backing plates are bonded to  the sandwich slightly
offset to each  other.

**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Apr 23 09:04:28 2009
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 11:04:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment/with string.
In-Reply-To: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <07444DFB-D8C9-4A09-B0A9-42B69CA593C6@ntelos.net>

Ed.
Please explain how this works when the rear end is an inch and three  
quarters (1- 3/4) wider than the front end.
Thats 7/8" per side.

Dave and Daisy


On Apr 22, 2009, at 10:11 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:

You gents CONTINUE to work WAY to hard<G>!!!

<<Yep. Get a tape measure>>

Yep, agreed all.

<<and a friend or SO.>>

Well, a pretty 'friend' or SO to hand you a brew WOULD be NICE but
un-necessary for the job.

<<Measure the distance from a point on a tire tread on one side of the  
front
tire to the same point on the other front tire at the same height  
(usually,
you can't go higher than about 6-8 inches). Repeat on the backside of  
the
tire; same point on tread at approx. same height. This won't be  
absolutely
accurate because due to camber the measurement would be different if you
could measure at the center of the tire circumference, but it'll give  
you a
ballpark idea.>>

While the basic info is good, STILL TOO much work<G>!!!

Procure two (2) pieces of STRING 20' - 25' long and lay out on each side
of the car.  Tie BOTH via a NON-slip loop to the boot lid handle then  
run
each below overrider and run across the back tyre as close to center as
K/O allows using tyre tread to 'position' and continue to front of car  
and
running said string across same location(s) on front tyre and tie-off  
just
in-board of front O/R (securely & snugly)!!  Same on both sides of car.

Oh oops;  I WAS 'assuming' (yes, I know<G>) car on nice level surface
with wheels straight ahead.

At this point there 'should' be a gap from string to (front) tyre EITHER
at the back OR front.  You may have to turn steering wheel either  
right or
left so that ONE front tyre has string against BOTH front & rear face of
said tyre.  The other side may have a measurable 'gap'.

Adjust tie-rod in direction required to obtain ZERO gap (for BOTH  
tyres).

With radial tyres, you ARE now 'adjusted' (and as close as radials will
allow).

Once you have done it, it's a 5 mt. job on practically any LBC (and a  
LOT of
other cars [that have +/- 1/8" spec] ).

Ed
Please visit MY site at:		www.justbrits.com

PS:  You may have seen this method done (in very near past) in NASCAR
and I think I once saw in Indy cars.  Those guys are going a LOT faster
than our Healeys EVER (street cars<G>) will !!!  LOL
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From alan.bromfield at virgin.net  Thu Apr 23 09:53:30 2009
From: alan.bromfield at virgin.net (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 16:53:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
In-Reply-To: <cdd.4d5bf25c.3721d8f9@aol.com>
References: <cdd.4d5bf25c.3721d8f9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1E0C74D94483496DA8B1EBF6B51ECBFC@Dell>

Hi Gary.

I'm not convinced that these new rubbers will settle very much. A sixteenth
maybe but not the half inch plus you are looking for.  My solution was a bit
different and can best be explained with the pics attached.  The list will
strip them for others so bear with me. 

 

The clearance for the rebound rubber to the top of the engine mount rubber
is 1/22" (see clearance.jpg) and you are expected to shim that down to
reduce the gap.  The gap is enormous and will take more than shims!  1/22"
is less than 1mm and any settling in the engine mount would use up that gap
very quickly.  It certainly wouldn't settle further once the gap had closed
completely.  The diagonal offset I mentioned in the engine mount block,
presents an edge to the rebound rubber and not the pair of metal plates that
would be expected if the plates were parallel. My fix came in two parts.

 

First I ground off the top edge of the high plate, taking a sliver of rubber
with it, until the top edge of the block was truly square and flat. I then
filed the holes in parts 5 and 17 (see assembly.jpg or Plate AK in the parts
list) elongating them until I could assemble with the 1/22" gap needed.
Bolt the whole thing up tight using self locking nuts as you won't see those
nuts ever again.

 

The result was an engine that sat at the correct height.  I know many will
have reservations about slotted holes but it worked for me.

 

If anyone wants the pics let me know and I'll post them for collection.

 

Best......

 

AlanB.

 

 

  _____  

From: Warthodson at aol.com [mailto:Warthodson at aol.com] 
Sent: 23 April 2009 15:45
To: alan.bromfield at virgin.net; healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust header

 

Alan,

I have suspected that the engine might be sitting higher. It is 1/2"

higher when compared it to a friend's engine that was installed approx. 10
years ago with new rubber. Of course, I would expect mine to settle some
over time.

Gary   

 

In a message dated 4/22/2009 12:06:45 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
alan.bromfield at virgin.net writes:

Gary.
I'm not sure if this is the answer to the problem but it sounds like your
engine is higher up than it should be. In my experience the problem arises
because the large rubber engine mounts are slightly thicker than originals
and also the two metal backing plates are bonded to the sandwich slightly
offset to each other.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of clearance.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of assembly.jpg]

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Apr 23 18:56:26 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:56:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey picture
Message-ID: <COL109-W41952D9CAEF6F6A394A44BAD720@phx.gbl>

In case you can get the MSN home page, there is a picture of an Austin-Healey
on the Money section of the main page. Looks like they are beginning to
appreciate what a really good car looks like! It's on the lower right side.

Bill

BJ7

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Apr 23 19:19:27 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 18:19:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting.
Message-ID: <49F1139F.90609@pacbell.net>

Very interesting place to find a nice picture of a BJ8.  However, 
clicking on it doesn't bring up any more pictures.  Obviously somebody 
there likes them!

http://www.msn.com/defaulta.aspx'

Bill
'53 BN1

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Apr 23 20:01:23 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 22:01:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] my super rare 3000!
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP719A1C03E4C50014EA9D01C3720@phx.gbl>

Hi all,

Yesterday, after much anticipation, I received the Heritage Certificate I had
ordered a month or so ago and boy was it worth it!  Turns out I have what must
be the last Healey 3000 ever produced, the manufacture date being 29 Sept to 6
Oct 1969 and the dispatch date being October 13, 1969.  Moreover, it is a BT7,
which means they must have kept the early bits around for some 7 years before
completing it and sending out the door - wow what luck!

I will be contacting the British Motor Heritage Trust with a really special
thank-you.

Mirek

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 23 18:41:12 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:41:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.
References: <8DCD6F548A3F41748AA02F9F0498CF6F@deepthought42>
Message-ID: <BC02FA01550A4A01859BA5B974035F34@ophrdc.org>

Hi Paul,

1. The tapered (thin) end of the wedge goes to the rear of the car according 
to the workshop manual in the Rear Axle chapter under "Removal".

2. These wedge plates are listed under part number SUR150 packing piece 
available from Autofarm. They have a web site.

Now, can you please send me all the particulars of 153829 and it's current 
owner so I can enter the data into the Hundred Registry?

many thanks,

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Barnes" <fiat500f at aol.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 1:33 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.


> Two quick BN1 (BN1L/153829) rear leaf spring related questions please:
>
> 1.  Regarding the aluminum wedge between the axle and the spring, which 
> end
> (fat or thin) goes toward the front?
> 2.  Does anyone have a used wedge I could purchase?  When reinstalling the
> spring that had a wedge, I'd forgotten which way the wedge should be
> positioned.  When I looked at the other spring to reference the wedge
> direction, I saw that that wedge was broken in half, and half was was 
> gone!
> The wedge is made of aluminum and has the part number, 1B7352, 
> stamped/cast
> into it.  My e-mail is fiat500f at aol.com.
>
> Paul B.
> (Still helping my friend with his 1954 BN1)  :)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Thu Apr 23 18:02:38 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 10:02:38 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment/with string.
In-Reply-To: <07444DFB-D8C9-4A09-B0A9-42B69CA593C6@ntelos.net>
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<07444DFB-D8C9-4A09-B0A9-42B69CA593C6@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <20090424100238.14912bqvng3t8h3y@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Quoting David Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>:

> Ed.
> Please explain how this works when the rear end is an inch and three 
> quarters (1- 3/4) wider than the front end.
> Thats 7/8" per side.
>
> Dave and Daisy> On Apr 22, 2009, at 10:11 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:
>
> 
>
>Answer, nail a distance piece,ie timber, to the tyre each side of car and fit string.BUT be quick! 

From rkorn at simnet.is  Thu Apr 23 19:09:45 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 01:09:45 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] dual brake servo installation
Message-ID: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>

The BJ8 here in Iceland is nearing completion and Gisli purchased a dual servo
for the brakes which didn4t come with any installation instructions and after
a few e-mails, he is still waiting for them to send it.
Does anyone have it on a file or can send a link?

Many thanks in advance,
Richard

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Apr 23 20:32:15 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 10:32:15 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] dual brake servo installation
In-Reply-To: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
References: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904231932n123df57eha05aec87dc6e5436@mail.gmail.com>

Do you mean dual brake master cylinders?, i.e. tandem (i.e. dual circuit)
master cylinders (one for front brakes, one for back brakes)?

Is this what you are talking about:

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/3000-dual-circuit-balance-bar-pedal-box
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/tandem-brake-master-cylinder

Not sure what you would use Dual Brake Servos for....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Apr 24, 2009 at 9:09 AM, Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote:

> The BJ8 here in Iceland is nearing completion and Gisli purchased a dual
> servo
> for the brakes which didn4t come with any installation instructions and
> after
> a few e-mails, he is still waiting for them to send it.
> Does anyone have it on a file or can send a link?
>
> Many thanks in advance,
> Richard

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Thu Apr 23 18:48:26 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:48:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test..please ignore
In-Reply-To: <B40C5F1229BC4AC09C3B6BD3B0C91D76@FredLaptop>
References: <COL109-W28CD962B9B10E792364915AD760@phx.gbl>
	<B40C5F1229BC4AC09C3B6BD3B0C91D76@FredLaptop>
Message-ID: <243513473DA44117AD6A3E8469BD4D51@michael>

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432
ive

From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 23 20:43:54 2009
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 22:43:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2009 Kingston Ontario
In-Reply-To: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
References: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
Message-ID: <BLU132-W3869C84BE57FFE6609EE06E6720@phx.gbl>

Registrations for Conclave in Kingston are arriving daily. There are currently
almost 200 registered and the Ambassador hotel only has 250 rooms. There are
other hotels close by (a Comfort Inn 2 Blocks away and Best Western 6 blocks
away).  If you want to stay at the host hotel, please register soon.

We are looking forward to three distinguished Healey guests joining us from
overseas.

John Sprinzel is synonymous with the great Sebring Sprite racing cars and was
a BMC race and rally driver in the 1960's. He is the founder of Speedwell
Racing Equipment and former owner of John Sprinzel Racing Limited that sold
many works Healeys. John has written a book called "Spritely Years" and is an
entertaining guest speaker.

Ann Riley (Wisdom) is one of the most successful big Healey navigators ever.
Debuting with her father Tommy in the 1957 Italian Sestriere Rally with the
first 6 cylinder rally car UOC741, Ann was the successful navigator to Pat
Moss, the sister of Stirling, in international rallying. Ann and Pat won many
trophies including outright victory in the 1960 Liege event and a Class win in
the 1960 Alpine Rally.

Peter Riley is a former BMC works rally and test driver. Peter chalked up the
3000s first International Class victory in the 1959 Liege-Rome-Liege rally
and drove UJB143 (now DD300) with Jack Sears at the 1960 LeMans. He currently
owns a 100-6 works car VOK490.



Copies of the new John Baggott book "Big Healeys in Competition" with foreword
by Peter Riley will be available for sale and signing by our guests.

Based on experience from previous Conclaves, it has been decided that this
year a repair facility will be available on site in the parking lot of the
host hotel.

Autofarm Limited, the well known Healey parts, repair, & restoration facility
will be available to assist you with any problems you may encounter with your
Healey, during your stay at Conclave.  From a flat tire to a split brake hose
to a broken exhaust or any other Healey problem that may make your stay any
less enjoyable than it should be.  A technician will be on duty during the day
every day for your convenience, and at other times by appointment.


A full range of parts will be available along with tires & tubes if you should
need anything.

We look forward to making your stay at Conclave as trouble free and enjoyable
as possible.



Laurie Wilford
Conclave 2009

_________________________________________________________________
Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Thu Apr 23 21:49:54 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:49:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Hydraulic Pump
Message-ID: <C20A7F4A-A2BC-46CD-9965-D424950BE15E@comcast.net>

I am finishing up a complete tear down and rebuild of a BJ8 gearbox  
and overdrive.  The car has 118,400 miles on it and the gearbox/OD has  
never been out of the car before.  Today we finished putting the  
overdrive together and planned to test it.  One of our club members  
had built a test apparatus which allows bolting the overdrive to a  
framework and spinning the main shaft with an electric motor.  We  
filled the OD with 30 weight non-detergent oil and ran the motor  
spinning the pump and watched the little pump oscillate up and down as  
it is supposed to. We let it run for about ten minutes.   However, we  
were never able to get any pressure built in the system, the pressure  
gauge never came off of zero.  In the tear down we did not remove or  
dismantle the pump.  In the 39 years I have owned the car the  
overdrive has never failed to engage or disengage smartly.  The reason  
I dismantled the overdrive was to replace bearings, thrust washers,  
and the accumulator piston, rings and housing.  The accumulator piston  
and housing had become badly scored.  While the OD  was apart I  
thoroughly cleaned the interior and flushed out all dirt and residue  
that had built up of the life of the car.   The only reason my  
colleagues and I could think of for the failure of the pump to begin  
to build pressure is if air had become trapped in the passages and the  
pump cannot clear the air out.  I s there anyway to prime the pump?   
Or does anyone have suggestions for the cause of an untouched working  
pump suddenly failing to work when the unit is re-filled with fresh oil?

Marks 3

From jessmd1 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 23 22:37:44 2009
From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 23:37:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Importing a healey from Canada to the U.S
Message-ID: <3CB03AF3-502B-45F3-96AC-AADB5A5C7DDE@comcast.net>

   Does anyone know what forms,taxes,and fees are involved with  
importing a classic car from Canada to the U.S.?

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr 24 00:17:58 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 08:17:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] dual brake servo installation
In-Reply-To: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
References: <7E2E94156A7D4E87889A663108CE9670@velad>
Message-ID: <49F15996.3040100@chello.nl>

Richard,

What do you mean by "dual servo"?
Two seperate remote servo's,
dual line brakes operated by remote servo's,
an (integrated) servo operated MBC with dual lines
or perhaps a brake balance operating dual remote servo's?

Kees Oudesluijs


Richard Korn schreef:
> The BJ8 here in Iceland is nearing completion and Gisli purchased a dual servo
> for the brakes which didn4t come with any installation instructions and after
> a few e-mails, he is still waiting for them to send it.
> Does anyone have it on a file or can send a link?
>
> Many thanks in advance,
> Richard
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.3/2075 - Release Date: 04/22/09 17:25:00

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Fri Apr 24 01:59:03 2009
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 08:59:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.
In-Reply-To: <BC02FA01550A4A01859BA5B974035F34@ophrdc.org>
References: <8DCD6F548A3F41748AA02F9F0498CF6F@deepthought42>
	<BC02FA01550A4A01859BA5B974035F34@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <LDNqY0CHFX8JFwvT@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Paul and Rich

May I add something here relating to safety. Because this wedge is 
fitted it is important that the correct toe bolt is fitted through the 
centre of the spring leaves. The head needs to be around 3/4" long so 
that it still engages with the axle casing. Most rear springs supplied 
today have a toe bolt head around 3/8" long. This will not engage safely 
so the rear axle to spring location relies on the 'U' bolts being tight.

If they are not tight enough there is a danger that the axle will slip 
on the spring and twist around. This could make the car 'crab' with the 
rear wheels not following the same track as the front. In an extreme 
case this could cause a nasty accident.

I have raised this issue with UK suppliers over the years but they 
choose to take no notice. Perhaps they would if somebody had an accident 
where they could be liable by supplying an incorrect part.

Lets hope that it never comes to this.

Regards

>
>1. The tapered (thin) end of the wedge goes to the rear of the car 
>according to the workshop manual in the Rear Axle chapter under 
>"Removal".
>
>Rich Chrysler
>Hundred Registrar
>

-- 
John Harper

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Apr 24 03:02:04 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 11:02:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.
In-Reply-To: <LDNqY0CHFX8JFwvT@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <8DCD6F548A3F41748AA02F9F0498CF6F@deepthought42><BC02FA01550A4A01859BA5B974035F34@ophrdc.org>
	<LDNqY0CHFX8JFwvT@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BE81A@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

I can really underline, what John wrote. Two years ago, on my first test drive
after restoration of my BN1 with new springs, I realised a "moving" rear axle.
I was not far from my house, so came back with a slightly rubbing tyre at the
rear fender opening.
Then swapped the toe bolt from the old to the new springs.
I was really happy having realized the moving axle right in time.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Harper
Gesendet: Freitag, 24. April 2009 09:59
An: Rich C
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear spring question - 8 leaf type.

Paul and Rich

May I add something here relating to safety. Because this wedge is fitted it
is important that the correct toe bolt is fitted through the centre of the
spring leaves. The head needs to be around 3/4" long so that it still engages
with the axle casing. Most rear springs supplied today have a toe bolt head
around 3/8" long. This will not engage safely so the rear axle to spring
location relies on the 'U' bolts being tight.

If they are not tight enough there is a danger that the axle will slip on the
spring and twist around. This could make the car 'crab' with the rear wheels
not following the same track as the front. In an extreme case this could cause
a nasty accident.

I have raised this issue with UK suppliers over the years but they choose to
take no notice. Perhaps they would if somebody had an accident where they
could be liable by supplying an incorrect part.

Lets hope that it never comes to this.

Regards

>
>1. The tapered (thin) end of the wedge goes to the rear of the car
>according to the workshop manual in the Rear Axle chapter under
>"Removal".
>
>Rich Chrysler
>Hundred Registrar
>

--
John Harper

From rkorn at simnet.is  Fri Apr 24 03:08:11 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 09:08:11 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines
References: <1408188266.5455131240417281586.JavaMail.root@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<49EFD3B0.8060709@qwest.net>
Message-ID: <30610694ABEB4C19B5119192196A6353@velad>

Hilarious...Still getting it and we inherited a run from my father in law 
dating from the early sixties...what to do
Richard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "the walkers" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
To: <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
Cc: "Kendall Freese" <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
<CAWS52803 at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 2:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey car magazines


> These things are dangerous, this article clearly spells out the dangers of 
> keeping, for example,  National Geographic magazines (after all, these are 
> nearly impossible to throw away....as the article states, most people look 
> at the Nat Geo as a monthly edition of the Bible, with a huge circulation, 
> and over 175 years of monthly issues by now!)
>
> http://www.jir.com/geographic.html
>
> read and enjoy...lol
>
> bob walker
> phx, az
>
> m.brouillette at comcast.net wrote:
>> Car and driver from the 60s and 70s have value.B  National Geographic
>> magazines are usually give aways.B  If you advertise them on Craigslist 
>> for
>> the whole collection for a couple hundred dollars (if complete from 62) 
>> then
>> someone wil definately buy it.

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 24 04:28:58 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:28:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] my super rare 3000!
References: <BLU0-SMTP719A1C03E4C50014EA9D01C3720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601c9c4c7$7ad3b2c0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Hang on to that,  the way things go in this hobby , anything with the name 
Healey on it may be
worth big bucks in the future.  Even a mistake.

Take the Sprite for example.

Mark


did i say that out loud?



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mirek Sharp" <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 10:01 PM
Subject: [Healeys] my super rare 3000!


> Hi all,
>
> Yesterday, after much anticipation, I received the Heritage Certificate I 
> had
> ordered a month or so ago and boy was it worth it!  Turns out I have what 
> must
> be the last Healey 3000 ever produced, the manufacture date being 29 Sept 
> to 6
> Oct 1969 and the dispatch date being October 13, 1969.  Moreover, it is a 
> BT7,
> which means they must have kept the early bits around for some 7 years 
> before
> completing it and sending out the door - wow what luck!
>
> I will be contacting the British Motor Heritage Trust with a really 
> special
> thank-you.
>
> Mirek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 24 04:33:37 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:33:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment/with string.
References: <OLECLAFDGBNPEJPOHHIJKEKPDBAA.shop@justbrits.com><07444DFB-D8C9-4A09-B0A9-42B69CA593C6@ntelos.net>
	<20090424100238.14912bqvng3t8h3y@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <000b01c9c4c8$215daba0$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Its time to put the summer air in the tires anyway so the nail should help 
in this respect'

Mark

Hey, it is Friday isn't it?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Alignment/with string.


> Quoting David Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>:
>
>> Ed.
>> Please explain how this works when the rear end is an inch and three
>> quarters (1- 3/4) wider than the front end.
>> Thats 7/8" per side.
>>
>> Dave and Daisy> On Apr 22, 2009, at 10:11 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>Answer, nail a distance piece,ie timber, to the tyre each side of car and 
>>fit string.BUT be quick!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From RCT2BNC at aol.com  Fri Apr 24 07:44:57 2009
From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 09:44:57 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Importing a healey from Canada to the U.S
Message-ID: <c75.4f431ab3.37231c59@aol.com>

I imported a 1959 AC Ace from Victoria and was hit with Federal excise tax  
at the border crossing in Washington state. Two years later the great state 
of  Arizona also asked me for import excise taxes. Total for both was about 
 10+%.
 
Ben Cohen
BN1, BN7, BJ8
AC Ace, etc
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Apr 24 09:04:38 2009
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 08:04:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tri Carb setup on Ebay
Message-ID: <038BB9D88F1D4B4EA3ABF9A7515704E8@soloPC>

Hi,

A while ago some one was looking for a Factory Tri Carb intake/exhaust set up
....... well here it is !!!!!!
Its on ebay, item number 300309896895, bidding starts at $695.00 USD

Cheers
Kenny
N. Van. BC CA.

From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com  Fri Apr 24 09:11:32 2009
From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 11:11:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non-healey part
Message-ID: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18CD85C7@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>

I was replacing my MGB's front crank oil seal and found that the crank
pulley broke it to 2 pieces.

The damping rubber I guess is shot.  Does any one out there have a good
used pulley for a 1980 MGB 

1.8 engine??   I found a few places that will rebuild it.   Can't finish
my project until I get this replaced...

  Thanks ..

From rkorn at simnet.is  Fri Apr 24 09:43:37 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 15:43:37 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] brake servo  installation take 2
Message-ID: <52C9883CCF1F4F698BF6590C3F0A5DD3@velad>

I checked with Gisli the owner of the BJ8 and what he bought was part # 283581
from SC Parts. A " Competition brake servo " used when fitting a dual circuit
braking system.
It seems that they are having trouble accomodating him with the instructions.

Thanks again,
Richard

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr 24 09:51:24 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 17:51:24 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Non-healey part
In-Reply-To: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18CD85C7@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>
References: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18CD85C7@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <49F1DFFC.3040508@chello.nl>

Todd,

At your service, however check if they are the proper ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-GOOD-USED-CRANK-PULLEY-1975-80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem120408229529QQitemZ120408229529QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MGB-crankshaft-pulley_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem110380076051QQitemZ110380076051QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MGB-CRANKSHAFT-PULLEY-1968-71_W0QQitemZ380108032318QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item380108032318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Kees Oudesluijs



Taylor, Todd S schreef:
> I was replacing my MGB's front crank oil seal and found that the crank
> pulley broke it to 2 pieces.
>
> The damping rubber I guess is shot.  Does any one out there have a good
> used pulley for a 1980 MGB 
>
> 1.8 engine??   I found a few places that will rebuild it.   Can't finish
> my project until I get this replaced...
>
>   Thanks ..
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.4/2077 - Release Date: 04/23/09 19:21:00

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr 24 11:14:20 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 12:14:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Non-healey part
In-Reply-To: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18CD85C7@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>
References: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D18CD85C7@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <59A1198CCBAA4008985DFF94AE792B97@GregPC>

Todd, if you don't want to E-bay it, try Tony Barnhill at the Autoist.com 
http://www.theautoist.com/  I have dealt with him he seems to have a good 
stock of used B stuff and is reasonable on both prices and shipping.

Greg Lemon

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Apr 24 12:47:45 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 14:47:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Importing Healeys
Message-ID: <c4b.4f32da4b.37236351@aol.com>

re excise tax, paperwork, etc. Rather than trying to get up to speed on the 
arcanities of auto importation yourself, I'd strongly recommend that you 
have an established, experienced agent take care of it for you. I've used 
Cosdel, in San Francisco, myself over the years and have had good luck with 
them. The added premium is considerably less than what your time is worth to 
research all the regulations.
Best
Gary


**************
The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 
Easy 
Steps!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421330x1201417418/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;hmpgID=62&amp;
bcd=AprilAvgfooter424NO62)

From clocks at midcoast.com  Fri Apr 24 12:58:09 2009
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 14:58:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
Message-ID: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>

After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 w/ 
shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I tried to 
start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for a while and 
after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool off and tried 
it again with the same results. So, I assume that the problem is not the 
Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and connectors. I double checked the 
rotor and can see no wear. Could it be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out 
when it gets hot? Thanks, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Apr 24 13:18:29 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 19:18:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
Message-ID: <860397241.1655361240600709131.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fuel pump (they have coils too). Sounds like a vapor lock problem. 


bs 





After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 w/ 
shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I tried to 
start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for a while and 
after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool off and tried 
it again with the same results. So, I assume that the problem is not the 
Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and connectors. I double checked the 
rotor and can see no wear. Could it be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out 
when it gets hot? Thanks, JL 

James Lea 
PO Box 25 
Rockport Maine 04856 
1-207-236-3632 

1951 Triumph Renown 
1952 MG TD 
1952 Triumph Mayflower 
1958 Rover P4 
1962 Austin Healey BT7 
1980 Commuta-car Electric 
_______________________________________________ 

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Apr 24 16:16:52 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 00:16:52 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
References: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
Message-ID: <49F23A54.8010201@chello.nl>

Could very well be
Kees Oudesluijs



James Lea schreef:
> After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 
> w/ shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I 
> tried to start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for 
> a while and after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let 
> cool off and tried it again with the same results. So, I assume that 
> the problem is not the Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and 
> connectors. I double checked the rotor and can see no wear. Could it 
> be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out when it gets hot? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr 24 17:39:24 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 07:39:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
References: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904241639t69c791b2g3a82c0fbe86f7bf2@mail.gmail.com>

James -  are you checking spark & fuel level in both float bowls right
after the car dies?  Let us know the results.. Then we can help
diagnose better.

On 4/25/09, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:
> After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 w/
> shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I tried to
> start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for a while and
> after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool off and tried
> it again with the same results. So, I assume that the problem is not the
> Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and connectors. I double checked the
> rotor and can see no wear. Could it be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out
> when it gets hot? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Fri Apr 24 17:48:09 2009
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 18:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] gearbox rebuild, ready to install
Message-ID: <000401c9c537$1fd9a440$5f8cecc0$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

After a month of the first drive of HBJ7L -20040 in 26 years, I have
installed new brake rotors, a new clutch, new throw out bearing and rebuilt
the gearbox.  The gearbox is mated to the overdrive now and ready to
reinstall in my Healey.  I sincerely hope that the 'clunking' has
disappeared.  I now have the original BJ7 box installed instead of a BJ8
box.  I have been turning the gearbox over by hand before it is installed
and have noticed a tight spot.  But,  AH HA!  I just had an epiphany, it is
the oil pump riding on the cam in the overdrive providing the resistance, so
I guess that I just answered my own question.  Anyway, wish me good luck
this weekend installing the gearbox.

 

 

Randy

Healey Archaeologist

63 BJ7

60 BT7

66 Cobra replica

06 Mini Cooper S

From jessmd1 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 24 18:45:37 2009
From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 19:45:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
Message-ID: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>

  My 1954 BN1 is running hot.Placed new thermostat,flushed the  
radiator with Xerex,adjusted the timing(not overretarded).I did not  
replace the water pump but it is not leaking.The fan belt is not too  
loose.Anyone have any comments?It runs well at first but once it heats  
up it threatens to kill when one accelerates,backfires after reving it  
up.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr 24 19:05:58 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 20:05:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
In-Reply-To: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <04DC7AD4D5C44D41AF01DA17E2C89254@GregPC>

Jess,  Backfire is usually a timing or mixture issue, where is your car at? 
as in recently rebuilt anything, been running fine for a long time before 
this happened?

As far as running hot, try about 1/3 anti-freeze to 2/3 watter and a little 
Redline watter wetter, this may bring the temp down 5-10 degrees, may be 
running lean as well.

Good luck.

Greg Lemon 

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Apr 24 19:09:53 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:09:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
Message-ID: <c53.4a3b682b.3723bce1@aol.com>

Jess--
 
Give a bit more info for us to work with:  
 
How hot is hot?  
Have you checked the temperature gauge's accuracy with a digital or bulb  
thermometer?  
What is "not overretarded"--how much advance do you have at 3K rpm's?
What do plugs look like?
 
Best--Michael Oritt
------------------------------------------
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/24/2009 8:45:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jessmd1 at comcast.net writes:

My 1954  BN1 is running hot.Placed new thermostat,flushed the  
radiator with  Xerex,adjusted the timing(not  overretarded).

**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Apr 24 19:13:01 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 20:13:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
In-Reply-To: <04DC7AD4D5C44D41AF01DA17E2C89254@GregPC>
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
	<04DC7AD4D5C44D41AF01DA17E2C89254@GregPC>
Message-ID: <7E232471F19B4A7E87AB99F68FD4582C@GregPC>

errr, "water"

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Apr 24 19:16:52 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:16:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5CC57CC5E6D643E0B8C2EDD787EC90C5@ophrdc.org>

Jess,

Check that the thermostat is opening fully and isn't sticking, then I'd 
suspect the radiator. Just because it's been flushed and doesn't leak, it 
could still be half plugged.

I don't have your name in the Hundred Registry. Can you please send me all 
your BN1 numbers, etc. for the Hundred Registry?

Thanks

Rich Chrysler
AHCA Hundred Registrar

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jess Power" <jessmd1 at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 8:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot


>  My 1954 BN1 is running hot.Placed new thermostat,flushed the  radiator 
> with Xerex,adjusted the timing(not overretarded).I did not  replace the 
> water pump but it is not leaking.The fan belt is not too  loose.Anyone 
> have any comments?It runs well at first but once it heats  up it threatens 
> to kill when one accelerates,backfires after reving it  up.

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Fri Apr 24 19:30:55 2009
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:30:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
In-Reply-To: <04DC7AD4D5C44D41AF01DA17E2C89254@GregPC>
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
	<04DC7AD4D5C44D41AF01DA17E2C89254@GregPC>
Message-ID: <8CB935C9CA7EFB3-11BC-C79@webmail-dd10.sysops.aol.com>

 When my BN7 starts backfiring it's almost always running too lean and that could also result in it running hotter I think.
Ned Paulsen


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: Jess Power <jessmd1 at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 9:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey running hot









Jess,  Backfire is usually a timing or mixture issue, where is your car at? 
as in recently rebuilt anything, been running fine for a long time before 
this happened??
?

As far as running hot, try about 1/3 anti-freeze to 2/3 watter and a little 
Redline watter wetter, this may bring the temp down 5-10 degrees, may be 
running lean as well.?
?

Good luck.?
?

Greg Lemon 
_______________________________________________?

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?

Healeys at autox.team.net?

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys?
?

You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com?
?

http://www.team.net/archive?

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Fri Apr 24 19:53:41 2009
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:53:41 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
Message-ID: <cb4.53d563b1.3723c725@aol.com>

I had, sometimes still have, the same problem. I  also had a leak in my 
exhaust, which added to the problem. I fixed the exhaust  and installed an 
electric fan on the front of my radiator that blows air through  and wired it to 
a fused switch so I can turn it on and off as needed while  driving. That 
has really helped and mostly in stop and go traffic, I use the  electric fan, 
on the road I don't need it.
    Also, a member of our club took a marine  bilge fan and mounted it 
above and next to the radiator. The fan  is set up so it sucks air in from the 
front of the car from a hose the goes to  the back side of his grille and 
then pushes it out of a hose that opens up right  above and in front of the 
front carb float bowl. This has worked extremely well  for him. Seems the gas 
gets real hot in those floats and causes the engine to  back fire, run rough 
to say the least and is not a very fun driving experience. 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
**************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421330x1201417418/aol?redi
r=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Ap
rilAvgfooter424NO62)

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Apr 24 20:06:24 2009
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 22:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
In-Reply-To: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004701c9c54a$6fbbf310$4f33d930$@com>

Does your car have the bottom and center baffles installed ahead of the
radiator. I have found that they make a huge difference particularly in
traffic.
I would also recommend dribbling a little cold water over the carb float
cambers when the problem occurs to see if it is being caused by fuel boiling
in the carbs.

Michael Salter.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jess Power
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 8:46 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot

  My 1954 BN1 is running hot.Placed new thermostat,flushed the  
radiator with Xerex,adjusted the timing(not overretarded).I did not  
replace the water pump but it is not leaking.The fan belt is not too  
loose.Anyone have any comments?It runs well at first but once it heats  
up it threatens to kill when one accelerates,backfires after reving it  
up.

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Fri Apr 24 20:13:15 2009
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 19:13:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] urgent key problem XK (no Healey content)
Message-ID: <5caeedb50904241913l38a2fd46s31473cdee37d7608@mail.gmail.com>

a friend of mine who is going on the CA Mille with me in his XK 140
FHC is now at the Fairmont hotel in SFO.
his car has arrived on a flat bed.
the driver has lost the keys.

problem #1. how to get the doors open.
problem #2 how to get a key made on Saturday  in SFO
Help, please.

ron rader
XK 150 FHC (2 sets of keys)
1965 BJ8 (also 2 sets of keys)

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 24 20:40:52 2009
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 19:40:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <9533F79DED3946B8B1BF2B6523894214@JIM>
Message-ID: <736395.9280.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

just for gigles... change your fuel filter.
Best
JK 

--- On Fri, 4/24/09, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:

> From: James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
> To: "List Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, April 24, 2009, 2:58 PM
> After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss
> ($138.00 w/ shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I
> tackled the repair I tried to start the car again and it
> started right up. I let it run for a while and after it got
> up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool off and
> tried it again with the same results. So, I assume that the
> problem is not the Petronix. I have checked all the wiring
> and connectors. I double checked the rotor and can see no
> wear. Could it be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out when it
> gets hot? Thanks, JL
> 
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> 
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as jackson_krall at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr 24 21:07:22 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:07:22 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] urgent key problem XK (no Healey content)
In-Reply-To: <5caeedb50904241913l38a2fd46s31473cdee37d7608@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5caeedb50904241913l38a2fd46s31473cdee37d7608@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904242007s632f9521s41c83aca1d8add8f@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

Most any locksmith will be able to make keys for the car in less than
an hour.  When you call the locksmith,  tell him you need  "Union"
keys for a british car (they are virtually all the same, only 2 or 3
profiles), for an FA or FNR code key.  That way he'll have the correct
blanks on him.

Look up the yellow pages, there will be bonded locksmiths available on
call 24/7.

Charge it to the tow company.

Alan


On 4/25/09, F. Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com> wrote:
> a friend of mine who is going on the CA Mille with me in his XK 140
> FHC is now at the Fairmont hotel in SFO.
> his car has arrived on a flat bed.
> the driver has lost the keys.
>
> problem #1. how to get the doors open.
> problem #2 how to get a key made on Saturday  in SFO
> Help, please.
>
> ron rader
> XK 150 FHC (2 sets of keys)
> 1965 BJ8 (also 2 sets of keys)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Apr 24 21:21:25 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:21:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey running hot
In-Reply-To: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
References: <9A7D2387-7932-4750-8D19-50FBD28F112C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904242021p717527abjb00e47a9afd699a5@mail.gmail.com>

Jess -

I drive my stock A90 (everything the same as the 100) in the hottest
traffic in Hong Kong and it never overheats, ever.  My BN1 in
California never overheats either.  The car is generally well designed
for keeping cool, with the exception of heat shielding for the carbs.

Key things to do are;

1) Replace t-stat with a 160 deg
2) Take your radiator out (easy) and take it to a shop to be rodded.
This makes a HUGE difference, and rodding is usually pretty
inexpensive to have done.
3) Use a high pressure nozzle, while the radiator is out, and spray it
full blast into the block.  That should help remove scale.

Finally, for extra credit, something that should be done with all 100 motors:

The exhaust manifold and heat sheild should be sent to Jet Hot for
heat coating - this will greatly reduce float bowl vaporization and
crappy running while hot.

Alan

On 4/25/09, Jess Power <jessmd1 at comcast.net> wrote:
>   My 1954 BN1 is running hot.Placed new thermostat,flushed the
> radiator with Xerex,adjusted the timing(not overretarded).I did not
> replace the water pump but it is not leaking.The fan belt is not too
> loose.Anyone have any comments?It runs well at first but once it heats
> up it threatens to kill when one accelerates,backfires after reving it
> up.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 25 05:38:17 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 04:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] sunny day
Message-ID: <897663.80536.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone on this list live in rockland co or plan to go to britfest in nj next week

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Apr 25 07:12:41 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 05:12:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?spell_check?=
Message-ID: <20090425131241.1791.qmail@hoster902.com>

pe_r_tronix

-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6

From rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com  Sat Apr 25 08:27:07 2009
From: rbender1 at berkshire.rr.com (Robert Bender)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 10:27:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys]  Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21920.1240629138.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21920.1240629138.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ABE3CD62373841FB80766C68F4612589@benders>

Jim,
I would check the coil.  I've seen the same thing happen before.
It's easy enough to throw in a known good used coil and give it a try.
They are famous for letting your car warm up before they quit.
Good luck,
Bob Bender

On 4/25/09, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:
> After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 
> w/
> shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I tried 
> to start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for a 
> while and after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool 
> off and tried it again with the same results. So, I assume that the 
> problem is not the Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and 
> connectors. I double checked the rotor and can see no wear. Could it 
> be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out when it gets hot? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Apr 25 08:32:42 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 10:32:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] intake/exhaust gasket
Message-ID: <c54.4a0d7c08.3724790a@aol.com>

My intake/exhaust gasket has metal on one side. What is the correct  
installation orientation? Metal toward manifolds or head? And does anyone know  
why?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson 
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From clocks at midcoast.com  Sat Apr 25 16:35:15 2009
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 18:35:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix III
Message-ID: <5187F6EBB7EC4BF3BAB755772A7CD4DD@JIM>

After rechecking everything, she started right up so I drove downtown and 
she died again. So I just installed a new coil in hopes that it might be the 
problem. In the process of putting in the new coil I was reading the paper 
that came with the Pertronix. It says "The ohm reading must be 1.5 ohms or 
greater for six and eight cylinder engines and 3.0 ohms or greater for four 
cylinder engines. Since I had a Flamethrower 3.0 coil on the car, might that 
have been the problem and it burned out something?  If so it ran for several 
years that way. Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 17:35:16 2009
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:35:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c@mail.gmail.com>

Flipping channels and an old Gregory Peck movie is on Starz Retroplex
called On The Beach (on right now).

In the scene I just saw Gregory Peck is watching a road race.  I came
in half through, so I missed some but there is at very least a 100
involved in a fiery crash, and I think a 100-Six.  Many others of the
vintage.  I don't have PVR on this set or I would be able to report
more.

http://www.starz.com/titles/OnTheBeach

It looks like it will be on Starz Mystery again in June

Patton

-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 18:09:01 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 20:09:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] intake/exhaust gasket
In-Reply-To: <c54.4a0d7c08.3724790a@aol.com>
References: <c54.4a0d7c08.3724790a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904251709k418ebbd3xd6dec444aa7d5d5e@mail.gmail.com>

Metal towards the manifolds because it won't stick to the manifold
which allows you to pull them off/seperate the intake from exhaust w/o
destroying the gasket.

Also, the metal surface helps prevent leakage as the surface will
maintain a flat profile with the low torque setting for the manifolds.

On 4/25/09, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
> My intake/exhaust gasket has metal on one side. What is the correct
> installation orientation? Metal toward manifolds or head? And does anyone
> know
> why?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
> web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
> (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Gbouff1 at aol.com  Sat Apr 25 19:33:41 2009
From: Gbouff1 at aol.com (Gbouff1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 21:33:41 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <cf0.567e54fe.372513f5@aol.com>

Steve,
 
I've restored a couple of steering wheels and used SEMS vinyl trim  paint.  
On my TR3A, it remained intact for the 6 years that I owned  it.  The paint 
stood up to sun and handling very well with no hint of  peeling.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Gary Bouffard
60 BN7 (on the rotissirie)
**************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web.  
Try the new Email Toolbar now! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027)

From dhugh at tscnet.com  Sat Apr 25 20:03:51 2009
From: dhugh at tscnet.com (Robert D. Hughes)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 19:03:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <auto-000390767326@donobi.com>

That scene was shot at Riverside Raceway. The 100 spun out in the 
middle of the track
and was broadsided by an old race car (looks like an Aston Martin 
grill) that was attached
to a Jag 120 and released just before impact.  The 100 had no engine 
or tranny, just a
dummy driving.  Everything happens so fast that you don't notice the cutaways.

This whole scene was shown in one of the sports car magazines of the time.

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8


At 04:35 PM 4/25/2009, Patton Dickson wrote:
>Flipping channels and an old Gregory Peck movie is on Starz Retroplex
>called On The Beach (on right now).
>
>In the scene I just saw Gregory Peck is watching a road race.  I came
>in half through, so I missed some but there is at very least a 100
>involved in a fiery crash, and I think a 100-Six.  Many others of the
>vintage.  I don't have PVR on this set or I would be able to report
>more.

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 20:28:46 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 22:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Be careful in Oregon!  :-)
Message-ID: <DDB20681-4BFC-46B7-BEA5-CDFBF8269656@gmail.com>

At least it wasn't a bunch of Healey's!   :-)

http://www.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/04/24/exotic.speeding.oregon/index.html

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Sat Apr 25 21:15:30 2009
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 21:15:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
Message-ID: <CAA7B717A9AA433F86C291D4B599064E@your4dacd0ea75>

Jim,

To assist you int he diagnosis of the problem that you are experiencing;

If the engine splutters before it dies it is fuel related, if the engines dies
suddenly it is electrical.

Regards,

Norman

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 21:22:55 2009
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 20:22:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Be careful in Oregon! :-)
In-Reply-To: <DDB20681-4BFC-46B7-BEA5-CDFBF8269656@gmail.com>
References: <DDB20681-4BFC-46B7-BEA5-CDFBF8269656@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471534970904252022n4608d35fya6ca278e9ea1e2a@mail.gmail.com>

I like the way everyone pulled over.

At least they were a decent bunch unlike the bozos around here that
drivee 100+ on the city highways and upload videos of it to youtube.

Jody

On Sat, Apr 25, 2009 at 7:28 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com> wrote:
> At least it wasn't a bunch of Healey's!   :-)
>
> http://www.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/04/24/exotic.speeding.oregon/index.html
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Sat Apr 25 22:03:02 2009
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 21:03:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Be careful in Oregon!  :-)
In-Reply-To: <DDB20681-4BFC-46B7-BEA5-CDFBF8269656@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C6192B06.19F0%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I live in Dundee, OR, about 25 miles from Grand Ronde and saw BadBul go by
in the middle of the day.  It's no often I see a $100,000+ car cruising on
old 99W.  Nice sound, though.


Randy HicksHealey100M at gmail.com

> At least it wasn't a bunch of Healey's!   :-)
> 
> http://www.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/04/24/exotic.speeding.oregon/index.html
> 
> Randy
> 
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From racarbon at optonline.net  Sun Apr 26 00:00:34 2009
From: racarbon at optonline.net (Ray Carbone)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 02:00:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>

Any repair ideas?  A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt.  Result . a stripped SU AUF 305 outlet housing.

 

Ray Carbone

64 BJ8 Phase 1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 00:37:35 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 14:37:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>

Ray - by the time you pay for a thread repair kit, it'll be cheaper to
get a new pump.

I'd try going to any local british garage or junk yard (if in you
area) they quite likely have an old pump you can strip of it's body
then put on your good pump.  Any SU pump from a 'mid 60's vintage LBC
will work - Jags, MGBs, triumphs, they all basically used the same
pump.  If the pump body looks the same as your pump, it'll work.





On 4/26/09, Ray Carbone <racarbon at optonline.net> wrote:
> Any repair ideas?  A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over
> enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt.  Result . a stripped SU
> AUF 305 outlet housing.
>
>
>
> Ray Carbone
>
> 64 BJ8 Phase 1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 26 09:03:06 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 08:03:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
Message-ID: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Apr 26 09:11:06 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 11:11:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002401c9c681$3976fd30$ac64f790$@net>

I imagine that it would greatly depend upon the size of the bump.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 11:03 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake

to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes 
_______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 09:13:13 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 23:13:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904260813m7d25473nc6f9ef9a05c210f7@mail.gmail.com>

John -

No, it's not.  Shaking after hitting a bump means your shocks are bad.
 Get them fixed - it can be dangerous to drive on the highway with bad
shocks.

Alan

On 4/26/09, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 09:54:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 08:54:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
	<ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49F4839C.20507@comcast.net>

I think the fuel components use Whitworth threads.  I've never seen a repair kit 
for Whitworth stuff; if it exists you'll spend an arm and a leg for it.  I don't 
know how you could jury-rig a "modern" repair--the banjo bolts are unique.  I 
also haven't seen many old British car carcasses in any junk yards--at least in 
the States--they've long since been picked over or salvaged (or crushed :(

Realistically, I think you're going to have to spring for a new pump.  If it's 
the "square body" type well, there goes your other arm and leg (for some reason 
the square body pumps are almost three times any other).  If you do end up 
buying new, I recommend the SU electronic version.  I had niggling pump problems 
for years--I have enough parts to put together two-and-a-half, probably--but 
since installing an electronic SU I've had no problems in over 20K miles.  Worth 
the extra $40 or so.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news (at least, a unpleasant opinion).


Bob




Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Ray - by the time you pay for a thread repair kit, it'll be cheaper to
> get a new pump.
> 
> I'd try going to any local british garage or junk yard (if in you
> area) they quite likely have an old pump you can strip of it's body
> then put on your good pump.  Any SU pump from a 'mid 60's vintage LBC
> will work - Jags, MGBs, triumphs, they all basically used the same
> pump.  If the pump body looks the same as your pump, it'll work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 4/26/09, Ray Carbone <racarbon at optonline.net> wrote:
>> Any repair ideas?  A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over
>> enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt.  Result . a stripped SU
>> AUF 305 outlet housing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ray Carbone
>>
>> 64 BJ8 Phase 1

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 10:21:24 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:21:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W31ED587CA1A3E90FD2C1DAC8700@phx.gbl>

Ray,

If I wanted to drive today I would go to AutoZone or someplace and buy a facet
pump  or another inexpensive pump that is equal in capacity to the SU pump
(about 3GPM output I believe) and a length of fuel line large enough to fit
over the end of the steel fuel line ends, along with 2 hose clamps and fit the
pump in line securing it to the pump bracket.  Hook up the wiring as needed
and be on my way.  The hardest part of this job would be jacking the right
rear up to remove the wheel.  Even easier if you can unscrew your right rear
seat pan from the cockpit side and just work through there.

Good luck and Happy Healeying on what looks like a great day along the East
Coast.

George Haywood
'65 bj8


> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 02:00:34 -0400
> From: racarbon at optonline.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
>
> Any repair ideas? A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over
enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt. Result . a stripped SU AUF
305 outlet housing.
>
>
>
> Ray Carbone
>
> 64 BJ8 Phase 1
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 26 10:22:05 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 09:22:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] first motion shaft identity and  laygear endfloat
Message-ID: <419325.3562.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Randy;B  If I understand correctly, your first issue is that you simply
want to know which first motion shaft goes with your BJ7 gearbox.B  You are
correct; it is the AEC 3472 first motion shaft or drive.B B The other first
motion shaft,B 22 B140 is for the BJ8.B 
B 
The attached table, which details all the transmission gear part numbers from
the 100 through to the 3000B BJ8,B was compiled from the following sources:
Austin Healey Club, Pacific Centre b Healey Highlights, Nov 1983, B pg 6
Hambro Automotive Corporation: Parts and Service Bulletin No. 144, July 28,
1961
BMC B Fast Moving Parts List, 1965, B pg 24-29
B 
Regarding your second issue, amount of endfloat, I mustB leave to others to
respond.
B 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 BN7 & '62 BT7
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Sat, 4/18/09, randy dickson <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com> wrote: <<
B 
Fellow Healeyoids,B  I'm having trouble identifying which is the correct first
motion shaft.B  I have two complete gearboxes plus lots of other parts.B  It
has been awhile since I assembled a gearbox so I want to know which first
motion shaft goes with my BJ7 box.B  I think that it is the AEC 3472 first
motion shaft.B  I know that the BJ8 first motion and main shaft are
different.B  The other first motion shaft is a 22 B140 (BJ8???).B  It appears
that on the BJ7, the bearings (18) that accompany the first motion shaft are
longer, and different than the BJ8 box.B  I've got the BJ7 box mostly together
now with the first motion shaft installed.B  I just want to double check, that
I have correct first motion shaft installed.B 
B 
Endfloat on the laygear is between .007-.0016. I read that .0012 is the limit,
but the end of the laygear is not perfectly even (thanks to the machine shop).
The front of the box contains the much larger bushing.B  Shouldn't the real
thrust be toward the large end anyway? I wonder how long the gearbox will last
with a larger endfloat?B  Is it just noisier or does it fail quicker.B 
Thanks! >>




      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Gears-Part]

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 10:27:23 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:27:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W77E504EB71AF52DDC96ECDC8700@phx.gbl>

Ray,  oops I meant 3psi not 3gpm.

George

----------------------------------------
> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 02:00:34 -0400
> From: racarbon at optonline.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
>
> Any repair ideas? A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create over
enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt. Result . a stripped SU AUF
305 outlet housing.
>
>
>
> Ray Carbone
>
> 64 BJ8 Phase 1
> _______________________________________________
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 10:47:02 2009
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 16:47:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0904260813m7d25473nc6f9ef9a05c210f7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0904260813m7d25473nc6f9ef9a05c210f7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL106-W512D7C3E9F35028A503143C0700@phx.gbl>

Bad shocks don't cause a car to shake, just bounce a lot more before they
settle down. I think you should check out your king pins. Badly worn king pins
will make the car shimmy. Sounds to me like you have a lot of worn suspension
and/or steering components.  Richard

> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 23:13:13 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
> To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] front end shake
>
> John -
>
> No, it's not.  Shaking after hitting a bump means your shocks are bad.
>  Get them fixed - it can be dangerous to drive on the highway with bad
> shocks.
>
> Alan
>
> On 4/26/09, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
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age2_042009

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 10:55:02 2009
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:55:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <SNT110-W77E504EB71AF52DDC96ECDC8700@phx.gbl>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC>
	<SNT110-W77E504EB71AF52DDC96ECDC8700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT110-W5158ACD15A12C1D372DA46C8700@phx.gbl>

Ray,  Here is a pump at Autozone that may work.  The list will strip the
attachment however. The Autozone part #: 425   (2 - 3 1/2 PSI, 42 GPH) $44.95,
usually in stock.

George

----------------------------------------
> From: haywoodone at hotmail.com
> To: racarbon at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:27:23 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
>
> Ray, oops I meant 3psi not 3gpm.
>
> George
>
> ----------------------------------------
>> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 02:00:34 -0400
>> From: racarbon at optonline.net
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
>>
>> Any repair ideas? A great day and a leaky fuel pump combined to create
over
> enthusiasm when tightening the outlet banjo bolt. Result . a stripped SU
AUF
> 305 outlet housing.
>>
>> Ray Carbone
>>
>> 64 BJ8 Phase 1
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry

From jessmd1 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 11:14:05 2009
From: jessmd1 at comcast.net (Jess Power)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 12:14:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey overheating
Message-ID: <6E6A0ECC-CC19-414D-8DEA-084AC6DE90CB@comcast.net>

Thanks to all for suggestions about my 1954 BN1 overheating.I am in  
the process of tuning and synching the carbs.I forgot to mention that  
the car continues to run on after turning off the ignition.What is  
this a symptom of?After getting the air/fuel mixture correct and  
synchronizing the carbs,I am going to have the radiater recored.

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 26 11:18:01 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 13:18:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PLEASANTON, CA BRITISH,
	EUROPEAN & UNIQUE FOREIGN CAR GATHERING
Message-ID: <15503567.1240766281353.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

PLEASANTON,CALIFORNIA EUROPEAN, BRITISH,
AND UNIQUE FOREIGN CAR GATHERING
May 2, 2008, Saturday, 12:00 b 4:00 PM
(Come and go as you please!)

This event is free & open to all owners of European, classic, high
performance and any unique imported cars of particular interest.
Emphasis will be on cars produced pre-1975. Also, unique cars from
other continents welcome as well!  This is a good excuse to take a
drive to a Bay Area destination, blow the cobwebs out of the
carburettors and meet with other local enthusiasts.

NEW LOCATIONb&b&.. Simply Greek Restaurant, 4220-C Rosewood Drive,
Pleasanton, CA - Phone: 925-463-8801 - Website:(www.simply-greek.com)
Conveniently located in the Rose Pavilion near Santa Rita Road & Rose
Pavilion Road (Just minutes from the Hwy 580/Santa Rita Road freeway
exit)

As before, this is an informal, relatively last minute gathering & an
excuse to leave the "Honey Do" list behind as you "run to the hardware
store for some parts." Since the last gathering of about 50 cars, we've
had numerous requests to "Do it again."  So, before the car show season
gets into full swing, here we go again!

We've got considerably more space at the Rose Pavilion as a result
of a number of fairly large businesses that have vacated their
properties.The Simply Greek restaurant parking lot (& adjacent area)
will accommodate upwards of 75 cars. Simply Greek welcomes our
group and offers unique, quality food (consistent with our cars!!).
Within walking distance there are also a few other restaurants
including TGIF, Asian, etc.

As with the last event, the success of the event was largely due to
enthusiasts spreading the word to friends, car clubs and those that
who would like to see a casual collection of unique cars.

THIS EVENT IS FOR THOSE THAT ARE:
- Tired of "American Only" car gatherings with virtually no Foreign,
Euro or interesting (to you) cars on display
- Interested in a Saturday drive destination to meet with other
Foreign car enthusiasts on a beautiful, sunny California day and tell
car "tales"
-  Owner's of a wide range of foreign sports, specialty, high
 performance and unique vehicles are welcome to bring vehicles in any
condition including; "drivers", show level examples, exotics, and even
interesting "RIP" (Restorations in Progress)
- Interested in meeting other foreign car owners and possibly
organizing driving events and other activities for certain types /
groups of cars
- Have a car for sale and would like some free advertising to a group
of potentially interested buyer's

Sound interesting?  If so, please join us for a few hours (or as long
as you care to stay) of very informal socializing and viewing of some
interesting cars. No need to RSVP, sign upb&just show up and let's see
how many cars we can attract.

 For information contact:
 Paul Wankle  <oneprw at sbcglobal.net>

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Apr 26 11:36:34 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 09:36:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Pertronix_III?=
Message-ID: <20090426173634.31860.qmail@hoster902.com>

James Lea wrote:

"After rechecking everything, she started right up so I drove downtown and
she died again."

Peter Roses and I spent a year on and off dealing with a similar problem on a friend's BN2 - it turned out to be a bad battery disconnect switch affecting the primary wire to the coil. After a while it would get hot - it would start off intermittent, then fail altogether, then when it cooled down a bit, the car would start and run just fine. It was good for about 2 miles before pooping out.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
BN6

From pennell at cox.net  Sun Apr 26 11:37:18 2009
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 13:37:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090426133718.CLM3X.53988.imail@eastrmwml37>

John,

IMHO only 2/3 of  the car should shake.  :)

Seriously, the rec you have gotten on the worn suspension parts and shocks are the likely culprits.  A pretty involved/expensive repair.  I would also take a careful look at the substructure as best you can for broken or cracked welds or stress fractures in metal pieces.

Keith Pennell

---- john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes 

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Sun Apr 26 11:53:11 2009
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 11:53:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  my super rare 3000!
Message-ID: <SNT104-DS163835881E5F4B6EEC5083E9700@phx.gbl>

I have a heritage certificate for my Frogeye that cites it as a Mark II sprite
...

Jim Sailer

><((((:>   ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7...  ><((((:>
    ><((((:>   ><((((:>
                ><((((:>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 12:03:31 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 11:03:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <6E6A0ECC-CC19-414D-8DEA-084AC6DE90CB@comcast.net>
References: <6E6A0ECC-CC19-414D-8DEA-084AC6DE90CB@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49F4A1F3.7030601@comcast.net>

re: "... the car continues to run on after turning off the ignition.What is this 
a symptom of?..."

Idle is set too fast, and/or too low octane fuel.


bs


Jess Power wrote:
> Thanks to all for suggestions about my 1954 BN1 overheating.I am in the 
> process of tuning and synching the carbs.I forgot to mention that the 
> car continues to run on after turning off the ignition.What is this a 
> symptom of?After getting the air/fuel mixture correct and synchronizing 
> the carbs,I am going to have the radiater recored.
> _______________________________________________

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Apr 26 12:11:31 2009
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 14:11:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
Message-ID: <20090426.141132.2336.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

John,

Front end kits are readily available. The work can cost upwards of
$1000.00 depending on the shop or whether you do the work yourself. But,
as the man says, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later!!". When it
comes to safety you want it done right, expensive or not. When you are
cruising down the back roads or highways at 70+ mph, you don't want to
worry. Life is expensive and so are our Healeys, but worth every penny.

Doug

> John,
> 
> IMHO only 2/3 of  the car should shake.  :)
> 
> Seriously, the rec you have gotten on the worn suspension parts and 
> shocks are the likely culprits.  A pretty involved/expensive repair. 
>  I would also take a careful look at the substructure as best you 
> can for broken or cracked welds or stress fractures in metal 
> pieces.
> 
> Keith Pennell
> 
> ---- john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> > to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car 
> shakes 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Click to find affordable options to attain your business degree. 
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTESUTlp7KkLp3xkxyiOMoVbOZRyhiaQ4VUtLNVwMSqfz8jEenc2Hm/

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 14:24:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 13:24:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cables
Message-ID: <49F4C2E4.10703@comcast.net>

Early Healeys, the ones with 2 6-volt batteries, have a short cable that 
connects the batteries in series.  The original type cable connector has a (Pb?) 
'cap' with a tapping screw in the center (I believe--hard to tell exactly from 
photos/drawings).  Anyway, does anybody know a source for these original-type 
cables (both for the interconnect and from battery to switch and battery to 
solenoid)?

TIA,
Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Apr 26 14:58:58 2009
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:58:58 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W512D7C3E9F35028A503143C0700@phx.gbl>
References: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><ff59076c0904260813m7d25473nc6f9ef9a05c210f7@mail.gmail.com>
	<COL106-W512D7C3E9F35028A503143C0700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <55961AC9678A41F69A328F2A8376B2A4@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

I agree with the worn suspension and steering components (inc shocks), plus
how well is the body connected to the rest of the car?

I recall a 100S that I once went for a long drive in. It had been raced
extensively and was very well worn. As you went over a bump or round a
corner you could feel the body and sub-frames moving.

Although it should be said that the sub-frames in a 100S are riveted to the
chassis and the rivets wear loose and the holes elongate. The car has now
been restored.

Train to catch and the office awaits.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: Monday, 27 April 2009 2:47 AM
To: healey.nut at gmail.com; rccpl1 at yahoo.com; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] front end shake

Bad shocks don't cause a car to shake, just bounce a lot more before they
settle down. I think you should check out your king pins. Badly worn king
pins
will make the car shimmy. Sounds to me like you have a lot of worn
suspension
and/or steering components.  Richard

> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 23:13:13 +0800
> From: healey.nut at gmail.com
> To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] front end shake
>
> John -
>
> No, it's not.  Shaking after hitting a bump means your shocks are bad.
>  Get them fixed - it can be dangerous to drive on the highway with bad
> shocks.
>
> Alan
>
> On 4/26/09, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes
> > _______________________________________________

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 15:29:18 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 14:29:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <20090426.141132.2336.2.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20090426.141132.2336.2.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <49F4D22E.7080708@comcast.net>

Not only that, the physical and emotional scarring that comes from removing and 
replacing long ago rusted-in-place A-arm mounts is the right of passage that 
marks you as a true "Healey Nut" (plus, you'll push the envelope of your 
vocabulary--just make sure no children are within hearing range).

bs



Douglas W Flagg wrote:
> John,
> 
> Front end kits are readily available. The work can cost upwards of
> $1000.00 depending on the shop or whether you do the work yourself. But,
> as the man says, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later!!". When it
> comes to safety you want it done right, expensive or not. When you are
> cruising down the back roads or highways at 70+ mph, you don't want to
> worry. Life is expensive and so are our Healeys, but worth every penny.
> 
> Doug
> 
>> John,
>>
>> IMHO only 2/3 of  the car should shake.  :)
>>
>> Seriously, the rec you have gotten on the worn suspension parts and 
>> shocks are the likely culprits.  A pretty involved/expensive repair. 
>>  I would also take a careful look at the substructure as best you 
>> can for broken or cracked welds or stress fractures in metal 
>> pieces.
>>
>> Keith Pennell

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 15:29:31 2009
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 17:29:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] NEOAHC Swap Meet\Car Show
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W21D9500E014E5A015CF564A1700@phx.gbl>
References: <AD7B8E9D845B4460810C7885913BAE67@DIETZ>
	<SNT103-W21D9500E014E5A015CF564A1700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W79FF76C5811532D2D97ED6A1700@phx.gbl>

   Those in and around the area.....come on out.

  May 3, Sunday, 32nd Annual British Car Show and Swap Meet. North East Ohio
AHC.

   Click the link.....car show tab on right.
 http://www.neoahc.com/index.html


_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor
age2_042009

From RCT2BNC at aol.com  Sun Apr 26 15:58:51 2009
From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 17:58:51 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cables
Message-ID: <d41.3d3e36be.3726331b@aol.com>

Bob,
 
The interconnecting cable is available currently on ebay.
 
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, BN1
and AN5 Bugeye (one for sale if you like)
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 26 16:07:31 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:07:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cables
In-Reply-To: <49F4C2E4.10703@comcast.net>
References: <49F4C2E4.10703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W811518E9317433C3931E12D5700@phx.gbl>

Bob



You mean the originl Lucas screwed terminals, Norman has them listed on page 7
of his hard to find parts manual, download it from British Car Specialists.



cheers Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 16:59:39 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:59:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <6E6A0ECC-CC19-414D-8DEA-084AC6DE90CB@comcast.net>
References: <6E6A0ECC-CC19-414D-8DEA-084AC6DE90CB@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904261559h1e7ab333uf19fa4544aa02192@mail.gmail.com>

Jess -

If your 100 radiator is original, it'll be preferable just to have it
rodded rather than recored.  It's cheaper just to rod it, and the
original factory cores are far better quality than modern replacement
cores.  They are actually a little better at keeping your car cool as
well.  Only replace it if you have to.

On 4/27/09, Jess Power <jessmd1 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Thanks to all for suggestions about my 1954 BN1 overheating.I am in
> the process of tuning and synching the carbs.I forgot to mention that
> the car continues to run on after turning off the ignition.What is
> this a symptom of?After getting the air/fuel mixture correct and
> synchronizing the carbs,I am going to have the radiater recored.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Apr 26 17:00:26 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:00:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Front_end_shake_-_an_anecdote?=
Message-ID: <20090426230026.19565.qmail@hoster902.com>

My car had a front end shake a couple of years ago similar to that described here, as well as, I think, the dreaded cowl shake at around 70mph. It turned out to be front end bushings.

IMHO the easiest way to check out the front end is to jack up the car and support it by the spring pans with the wheels off the ground. This way the strain is off the suspension components and you can jiggle everything in the suspension and steering and see where the play is. You can also check the adjustment of your front wheel bearings at the same time.

In my case the upper trunnion bushings were completely gone but the kingpins were perfect, as were the tie rod ball joints. The car actually rode pretty well, considering the upper trunnions consisted of 1/2" bolts rattling around in 3/4" holes!

I replaced the upper trunnion bushings as well as the lower A-arm bushings and all the shaking disappeared.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA
BN6

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 17:02:58 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 07:02:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix III
In-Reply-To: <20090426173634.31860.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20090426173634.31860.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904261602i441ae960wf5a8f0d496311911@mail.gmail.com>

Ah yes, great suggestion Steve!  I had the exact same thing happen to me.

A good test for this is to disconnect the switch's white/black wire
from the coil and see if that fixes your problem.  If so - bad switch!

On 4/27/09, Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com> wrote:
> James Lea wrote:
>
> "After rechecking everything, she started right up so I drove downtown and
> she died again."
>
> Peter Roses and I spent a year on and off dealing with a similar problem on
> a friend's BN2 - it turned out to be a bad battery disconnect switch
> affecting the primary wire to the coil. After a while it would get hot - it
> would start off intermittent, then fail altogether, then when it cooled down
> a bit, the car would start and run just fine. It was good for about 2 miles
> before pooping out.
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 26 17:19:53 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 16:19:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting
Message-ID: <693760.49468.qm@web90508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Patton,
I don't know about any Healey's crashing but I think sexy Ava Gardner hauling
ass in her Healey towards the end of the movie was a much much better scene.
When I saw the movie I was pretty young and she was probably 39 and looked
darn good!! In my older years she's still 39 and now I'm too old... Can't
win!!
I have the DVD and it's still a grood movie to watch even though the world
ending can be a littl depressing.
PatricK 67BJ8
 
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:35:16 -0600
From: Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
    <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Flipping channels and an old Gregory Peck movie is on Starz Retroplex
called On The Beach (on right now).

In the scene I just saw Gregory Peck is watching a road race.  I came
in half through, so I missed some but there is at very least a 100
involved in a fiery crash, and I think a 100-Six.  Many others of the
vintage.  I don't have PVR on this set or I would be able to report
more.

http://www.starz.com/titles/OnTheBeach

It looks like it will be on Starz Mystery again in June

Patton

--
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 26 18:29:20 2009
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:29:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
References: <20090426.141132.2336.2.dwflagg@juno.com>
	<49F4D22E.7080708@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001201c9c6cf$35593b20$4001a8c0@markl946cfrd7q>

Amen and Amen,   Thank God for antiseize compounds and improved chassis 
lubricants.

Never again in my life time will I take on another Healey front end.   I 
will pay the piper.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] front end shake


> Not only that, the physical and emotional scarring that comes from 
> removing and replacing long ago rusted-in-place A-arm mounts is the right 
> of passage that marks you as a true "Healey Nut" (plus, you'll push the 
> envelope of your vocabulary--just make sure no children are within hearing 
> range).
>
> bs

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 26 18:56:55 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 17:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Battery Cables & terminals
Message-ID: <265064.79618.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bob ... we have the terminals and the screws , the terminals are made of brass
, we also have the cables , if you go to our web site and down load our Rare
and Hard to Find parts Catalog ...  see page 7 Lucas battery terminals &
cables .& screws .... Norman Nock                   
 www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

--- On Sun, 4/26/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cables
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 26, 2009, 1:24 PM

Early Healeys, the ones with 2 6-volt batteries, have a short cable that
connects the batteries in series.  The original type cable connector
 has a
(Pb?) 'cap' with a tapping screw in the center (I believe--hard to tell
exactly from photos/drawings).  Anyway, does anybody know a source for these
original-type cables (both for the interconnect and from battery to switch and
battery to solenoid)?

TIA,
Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Apr 26 19:29:31 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 21:29:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix III
Message-ID: <c5c.4cd86ad4.3726647b@aol.com>

A better test is to remove the switch and see how far you can throw  it.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 4/26/2009 9:26:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:

A good  test for this is to disconnect the switch's white/black wire
from the coil  and see if that fixes your problem.  If so - bad  switch!



**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 26 19:53:10 2009
From: rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net (Reynaldo Navarro)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 18:53:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes on my BJ8
Message-ID: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have just purchased a 67 BJ8, frame up restoration and my problem is when I apply the brakes it take a couple seconds for the front disc brakes to release, the rear release as soon as the brakes are is off, any suggestions ? any help will be appreciated
Rey navarro

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Apr 26 20:27:40 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 02:27:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?oil_where_it_should_not_be?=
Message-ID: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>

a new member joined our car club this morning.  he showed up in a beautiful, newly restored 65 bj8.  he has had it since 1970 and says he is the second owner.  he had it restored somewhere in california and the restorer had subbed out the engine work.  he stated he was having a problem with oil in his cooant, and had had it drained and replaced at least three times.  everything was stock except for a 6 blade fan and new aluminum radiator.  i took the cap off and stuck my finger in there to the second joint and it was all oil of some kind.  we ran it for a few minutes and i checked the sump for milky oil, but it was clear and was full to the mark.   engine ran fine with no miss, and i was in a hurry and forgot to check for air bubbling up in rad, but is it possible that head gasket is on wrong allowing oil to get to water but not the other way.  i told him i would check with "brain trust" and see if i could get some ideas on where to start.   thanks for any help.     hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 20:27:57 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:27:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes on my BJ8
In-Reply-To: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904261927k5f5265a9t547b2dce2cb2c00e@mail.gmail.com>

Rey -

It is quite likely that your front brake caliper pucks are corroded (they
are originally chrome plated steel) and when they corrode, they usually do
it around the seal.  The corrosion causes the puck to stick to the seal when
the brakes are applied, and thus it takes a little time to come loose.  This
comes from the car sitting around for a long time, probably the previous
owner did not drive the car very much.

They only fix for this is to take the calipers off and replace the pucks,
preferably with the stainless steel pucks available now, which will last
forever.  You will also need to purchase a caliper rebuild kit as well.
Thankfully none of this is very expensive....

While doing this job, I would also recommend:

Purchasing SS flex brake hoses (everyone sells these)
Making sure your front calipers have the OEM anti-squeal shims

All of this is readily available.

Use Dot 4 brake fluid to refill - do not use Silicone brake fluid unless you
rebuild your entire system.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 9:53 AM, Reynaldo Navarro
<rnmgracer at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I have just purchased a 67 BJ8, frame up restoration and my problem is when
> I apply the brakes it take a couple seconds for the front disc brakes to
> release, the rear release as soon as the brakes are is off, any suggestions
> ? any help will be appreciated
> Rey navarro
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 20:31:21 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 19:31:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
Message-ID: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>

Bob,

Most Brit cars seem to have a propensity to "run on" or diesel  after  
killing the ignition.  It is a symptom of hot spots in the compression  
cylinders.  actually glowing pieces or metal of combustion products  
serving as unwanted spark plugs.  The way I have dealt with it also  
fixed a couple of other problems at the same time.  For about 20 years  
I have bought and keep on hand a gerry can of 110 octane  leaded race  
gas.  I mix one gallon of race gas with 6 gallons of regular pump  
gas.  This gives me a calculated octane rating of about 97.  Also, the  
race gas runs cooler than regular unleaded gas and cleans the  
combustion chambers so a point where no glowing bits remain.   
Therfore, no running on. If you have access to aviation gas it works  
the same way.   Finally, another way that doesn't involve the expense  
of race gas or the safety issue of storing it is to simply leave the  
car in gear and as you switch off the ignition slowly let your foot  
off of the clutch.  As the clutch engages the drag on the engine will  
stop it pretty much immediately.

Marks 3 

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 26 20:30:15 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 19:30:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] front end shake
In-Reply-To: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <415863.60563.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090426192624.01fd2c20@pop.att.yahoo.com>

John,

If the entire car is shaking and it seems uncontrollable you may have 
a problem where the A-arms attach to the frame; especially the inner 
A-arm attachment. Look very closely to see if the A-arm attachment 
point is starting to break off or if the frame has stated to collapse 
at that attachment point. Look closely because it may be hard to spot.

John

At 08:03 AM 4/26/2009 -0700, john doe wrote:
>to the group is it common that when you hit a bump the whole car shakes
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 20:37:20 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:37:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904261937k62613200y28a681660a80ca69@mail.gmail.com>

Mark -

The BN1/BN2 have comparatively low compression to most 60's British cars,
even in Le Mans kit trim.

If a 4 cyl is running on all the time, it probably means that the carb
mixture and/or timing is off.  Normal premium pump gas should be enough to
keep the car from running on.  I put regular unleaded in my BN1 and it has
no problems.  I can put moonshine in my A90 and she won't run on...  6.9:1
compression!  Goodness gracious....

Best Regards,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 10:31 AM, Mark Schneider <mandmschneider at comcast.net
> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Most Brit cars seem to have a propensity to "run on" or diesel  after
> killing the ignition.  It is a symptom of hot spots in the compression
> cylinders.  actually glowing pieces or metal of combustion products serving
> as unwanted spark plugs.  The way I have dealt with it also fixed a couple
> of other problems at the same time.  For about 20 years I have bought and
> keep on hand a gerry can of 110 octane  leaded race gas.  I mix one gallon
> of race gas with 6 gallons of regular pump gas.  This gives me a calculated
> octane rating of about 97.  Also, the race gas runs cooler than regular
> unleaded gas and cleans the combustion chambers so a point where no glowing
> bits remain.  Therfore, no running on. If you have access to aviation gas it
> works the same way.   Finally, another way that doesn't involve the expense
> of race gas or the safety issue of storing it is to simply leave the car in
> gear and as you switch off the ignition slowly let your foot off of the
> clutch.  As the clutch engages the drag on the engine will stop it pretty
> much immediately.
>
> Marks 3

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 20:42:08 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 02:42:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <2020047585.804751240800128336.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Ray- 


I've probably got a pump body that'll work for you. Contact me off list. 

Tom 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 20:44:56 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:44:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] oil where it should not be
In-Reply-To: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904261944q2550c1cbp342d6428467929b6@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

When you get oil in the water and not vice versa, it probably means the oil
gallery has corroded through to the water jacket.  Since this is under oil
pressure, it keeps the water from getting into the sump, which is good.

Thankfully you can buy a repair kit for this, it's not too expensive:

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=14&thepart=ORK

The bad part is you have to take the whole motor apart and out of the car to
fix this!!

If you want to play it safe, you can try replacing the head gasket, but by
that point you might as well pull the whole motor.

:(

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 10:27 AM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> a new member joined our car club this morning.  he showed up in a
> beautiful, newly restored 65 bj8.  he has had it since 1970 and says he is
> the second owner.  he had it restored somewhere in california and the
> restorer had subbed out the engine work.  he stated he was having a problem
> with oil in his cooant, and had had it drained and replaced at least three
> times.  everything was stock except for a 6 blade fan and new aluminum
> radiator.  i took the cap off and stuck my finger in there to the second
> joint and it was all oil of some kind.  we ran it for a few minutes and i
> checked the sump for milky oil, but it was clear and was full to the mark.
> engine ran fine with no miss, and i was in a hurry and forgot to check for
> air bubbling up in rad, but is it possible that head gasket is on wrong
> allowing oil to get to water but not the other way.  i told him i would
> check with "brain trust" and see if i could get some ideas on where to
> start.   thanks for any help.     hjim

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 26 21:14:33 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 21:14:33 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net spring cleaning
Message-ID: <20090427031433.8DCA32E0B8@bradakis.com>

Kind of a cool and rainy Easter here in Salt Lake, no garage work but
spending some time with the computers.  I'm shuffling some stuff around,
updating some software and so on, will be working at it for a while.
So if you experience an hour or two of no connection with Team.Net don't
worry about it too much, it is just me working on stuff.

For those who are not aware, this list and all the others [ see
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo ] are run by some grumpy old
curmudgeon using a rag-tag batch of hardware set up in my basement
office.  I didn't run an official spring fund drive this year which
helps to defray my out of pocket expenses to keep it all going, but
if you have a dollar or two available to support the whole thing,
see http://www.team.net/donate.html

Thanks,
mjb.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Apr 26 21:38:39 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:38:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>

Technically I aagree with what Mark said, but just wanted to add that 
legally using leaded avgas or racing gas on your street car is not kosher. 
Had a friend who was diong that vary thing in an American muscle car, he got 
stopped by a State Patrol officer, the guy looked at his tailpipe and asked 
him if he was running leaded gas, I forget what the telltale is maybe white 
residue, someone on the list will know.

Anyway, the guy (State P.)  was a gearhead, didn't write him up, having said 
this if I had an high compression E-type or Cobra or something that needed 
racing fuel to run well on the street I'd probably do it too...

Greg Lemon 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 21:54:05 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:54:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
	<F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>
Message-ID: <49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net>

AFAIK, the only legal restriction is that if you've purchased avgas--dunno about 
the racing fuel--you didn't pay 'road' tax.  In fact, some aircraft can run 
autogas and if you use it and keep your receipts and are willing to jump through 
the bureaucratic hoops you can get a rebate for the road tax.

I don't know of any laws that prohibit running leaded fuel in cars, but it's 
near impossible to get--I doubt many FBOs will pump into a can for non-pilots 
because of the tax requirement--and it'll destroy catalytic converters and good 
luck passing your smog test.


Bob



Greg Lemon wrote:
> Technically I aagree with what Mark said, but just wanted to add that 
> legally using leaded avgas or racing gas on your street car is not 
> kosher. Had a friend who was diong that vary thing in an American muscle 
> car, he got stopped by a State Patrol officer, the guy looked at his 
> tailpipe and asked him if he was running leaded gas, I forget what the 
> telltale is maybe white residue, someone on the list will know.
> 
> Anyway, the guy (State P.)  was a gearhead, didn't write him up, having 
> said this if I had an high compression E-type or Cobra or something that 
> needed racing fuel to run well on the street I'd probably do it too...
> 
> Greg Lemon _______________________________________________

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 21:57:44 2009
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 03:57:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
Message-ID: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello list,



Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the new
ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B 

MitchB 

From mandmschneider at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 22:05:06 2009
From: mandmschneider at comcast.net (Mark Schneider)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 21:05:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
	<F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>
	<49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5C5BE93E-9E16-408D-B6EB-1AD5AD0090F8@comcast.net>

Bob,

I buy my leaded race gas from a motorcycle shop.  they have several  
different grades of race gas, both leaded and unleaded.  I want the  
leaded obviously for valve protection.

Marks 3
On Apr 26, 2009, at 8:54 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> AFAIK, the only legal restriction is that if you've purchased avgas-- 
> dunno about the racing fuel--you didn't pay 'road' tax.  In fact,  
> some aircraft can run autogas and if you use it and keep your  
> receipts and are willing to jump through the bureaucratic hoops you  
> can get a rebate for the road tax.
>
> I don't know of any laws that prohibit running leaded fuel in cars,  
> but it's near impossible to get--I doubt many FBOs will pump into a  
> can for non-pilots because of the tax requirement--and it'll destroy  
> catalytic converters and good luck passing your smog test.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> Greg Lemon wrote:
>> Technically I aagree with what Mark said, but just wanted to add  
>> that legally using leaded avgas or racing gas on your street car is  
>> not kosher. Had a friend who was diong that vary thing in an  
>> American muscle car, he got stopped by a State Patrol officer, the  
>> guy looked at his tailpipe and asked him if he was running leaded  
>> gas, I forget what the telltale is maybe white residue, someone on  
>> the list will know.
>> Anyway, the guy (State P.)  was a gearhead, didn't write him up,  
>> having said this if I had an high compression E-type or Cobra or  
>> something that needed racing fuel to run well on the street I'd  
>> probably do it too...
>> Greg Lemon _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 22:21:54 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 21:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <5C5BE93E-9E16-408D-B6EB-1AD5AD0090F8@comcast.net>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
	<F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>
	<49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net>
	<5C5BE93E-9E16-408D-B6EB-1AD5AD0090F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49F532E2.1000803@comcast.net>

Shoulda said leaded gas is impossible to get here in California (except for 
avgas).  I can get 93- and 100-octane racing gas, but it's unleaded.


Bob



Mark Schneider wrote:
> Bob,
> 
> I buy my leaded race gas from a motorcycle shop.  they have several 
> different grades of race gas, both leaded and unleaded.  I want the 
> leaded obviously for valve protection.
> 
> Marks 3
> On Apr 26, 2009, at 8:54 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> 
>> AFAIK, the only legal restriction is that if you've purchased 
>> avgas--dunno about the racing fuel--you didn't pay 'road' tax.  In 
>> fact, some aircraft can run autogas and if you use it and keep your 
>> receipts and are willing to jump through the bureaucratic hoops you 
>> can get a rebate for the road tax.
>>
>> I don't know of any laws that prohibit running leaded fuel in cars, 
>> but it's near impossible to get--I doubt many FBOs will pump into a 
>> can for non-pilots because of the tax requirement--and it'll destroy 
>> catalytic converters and good luck passing your smog test.
>>
>>
>> Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From mkgoodman at att.net  Mon Apr 27 05:28:51 2009
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 07:28:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sticking Brakes
Message-ID: <000001c9c72b$57ee5c90$07cb15b0$@net>

Dear Rey,

 

Alan is correct about the calipers and hoses.  I would try the hoses first,
as I have had the interior of a front brake hose decay and separate and then
act as a check valve and restrict the release of the hydraulic pressure.   

 

On another matter, I hope that everyone who uses the list has either already
given a donation or plans to give one to Mark Bradakis for his efforts to
make this list possible.   I would not know how I could have restored my BJ8
and learned so much about how it can be kept in top condition.  I have been
subscribed to the list for over 12 years.  It is invaluable to me.

 

Mark Goodman

66 BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com 

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Apr 27 07:40:50 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 09:40:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] oil where it should not be
In-Reply-To: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W1016274763E00FC727E49CAD710@phx.gbl>

Unfortunately, he might have a problem with one of the oil ways in the block
leaking into the water. The oil pressure is higher then the water pressure and
will then pump oil into the water system. It begins with a little oil in the
water and only gets worse until there is a load of oil in the coolant system.
It will then gum up the collant system and create total havoc. The only way to
repair this is to either have a jacket installed in the block or replace the
block. This is a known problem with BJ7 blocks (ask me how I know).

Bill

BJ7

> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 02:27:40 +0000
> Subject: [Healeys] oil where it should not be
>
> a new member joined our car club this morning. he showed up in a beautiful,
newly restored 65 bj8. he has had it since 1970 and says he is the second
owner. he had it restored somewhere in california and the restorer had subbed
out the engine work. he stated he was having a problem with oil in his cooant,
and had had it drained and replaced at least three times. everything was stock
except for a 6 blade fan and new aluminum radiator. i took the cap off and
stuck my finger in there to the second joint and it was all oil of some kind.
we ran it for a few minutes and i checked the sump for milky oil, but it was
clear and was full to the mark. engine ran fine with no miss, and i was in a
hurry and forgot to check for air bubbling up in rad, but is it possible that
head gasket is on wrong allowing oil to get to water but not the other way. i
told him i would check with "brain trust" and see if i could get some ideas on
where to start. thanks for any help. hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 07:43:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:43:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090426230620.0206e738@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
	<F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC>
	<49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20090426230620.0206e738@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49F5B668.7000109@comcast.net>

Just because you can get away with it--fueling at many small airports is 
self-serve--doesn't mean it's legal (or ethical).  You might be putting the 
supplier of the fuel at risk (esp. if an eco-Nazi spots you doing that).

Just to be clear, I have no problem with people running leaded gas in their 
cars--I burn it in airplanes--but it is a legal gray zone that could cause the 
supplier some grief.


bs



john spaur wrote:
> There was a time, not to long ago, that I just pulled up to the pump at 
> South County Airport and filled the healey up!
> 
> John
> 
> At 08:54 PM 4/26/2009 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> .....it's near impossible to get--I doubt many FBOs will pump into a 
>> can for non-pilots because of the tax requirement--and it'll destroy 
>> catalytic converters and good luck passing your smog test.
>>
>> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Apr 27 07:51:34 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 07:51:34 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating
In-Reply-To: <49F5B668.7000109@comcast.net>
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net><F941F31CFE82487C979FDA9DB6B73B0F@GregPC><49F52C5D.6090805@comcast.net><6.2.3.4.2.20090426230620.0206e738@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<49F5B668.7000109@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <557FAD6904874F948B4B4728449B9333@oscar>

I can't imagine why anyone would want to go back to leaded fuel in their
cars. Remember valve jobs? Lead can really gum stuff up. IMHO
dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 7:43 AM
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: healey overheating

Just because you can get away with it--fueling at many small airports is 
self-serve--doesn't mean it's legal (or ethical).  You might be putting the 
supplier of the fuel at risk (esp. if an eco-Nazi spots you doing that).

Just to be clear, I have no problem with people running leaded gas in their 
cars--I burn it in airplanes--but it is a legal gray zone that could cause
the 
supplier some grief.


bs



john spaur wrote:
> There was a time, not to long ago, that I just pulled up to the pump at 
> South County Airport and filled the healey up!
> 
> John
> 
> At 08:54 PM 4/26/2009 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> .....it's near impossible to get--I doubt many FBOs will pump into a 
>> can for non-pilots because of the tax requirement--and it'll destroy 
>> catalytic converters and good luck passing your smog test.
>>
>> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rpmengr at bellsouth.net  Mon Apr 27 07:57:33 2009
From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 09:57:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
Message-ID: <49F5B9CD.7060101@bellsouth.net>

I have had overheating problems on my BN-1 so I put in new hoses, a new 
thermostat and a Griffin aluminum radiator. Yesterday in 88 degree 
temperature in stop and go the car got up to over 200 but not boiling. 
What is next? a larger fan?

@nd question: I put in LeMans carbs and a cold air box to mainly get rid 
of vapor lock when everything else didn't work. The problem is solved, 
but yesterday when the car got to about 3000rpms it would quit and then 
run when the car got to about 2000. At 25-2700 it ran great. I have a 1 
year old fuel pump and a clear gas filter. Could the larger carbs be the 
cause and if so what is the best approach?

Tanks for all your help, past and present.

Bob Memler
54 BN-1

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Apr 27 08:09:00 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:09:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
In-Reply-To: <49F5B9CD.7060101@bellsouth.net>
References: <49F5B9CD.7060101@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <D8016659D00049F59F476A6882CDBD33@oscar>

The old temp gauges are horribly inaccurate. Check that first. If you car
isn't actually boiling over/steaming out the overflow then it's probably not
as bad as you think.
 Aluminum is not a great heat exchanger, probably the increased volume helps
though.
 2nd. No clue. But fuel starvation sounds plausible.
dave 

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Memler
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 7:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions

I have had overheating problems on my BN-1 so I put in new hoses, a new 
thermostat and a Griffin aluminum radiator. Yesterday in 88 degree 
temperature in stop and go the car got up to over 200 but not boiling. 
What is next? a larger fan?

@nd question: I put in LeMans carbs and a cold air box to mainly get rid 
of vapor lock when everything else didn't work. The problem is solved, 
but yesterday when the car got to about 3000rpms it would quit and then 
run when the car got to about 2000. At 25-2700 it ran great. I have a 1 
year old fuel pump and a clear gas filter. Could the larger carbs be the 
cause and if so what is the best approach?

Tanks for all your help, past and present.

Bob Memler
54 BN-1
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Apr 27 08:36:42 2009
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 07:36:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting
In-Reply-To: <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <743b1e2f0904251635w7117aad9pe99f644a2b4c6b9c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502D9C@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I know it will be hard to see, but there is actually a 100S in the
movie. It is painted dark blue and has a Siata grill grafted on. Harry
Jones drove it but may not have owned it.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 4:35 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Sighting

Flipping channels and an old Gregory Peck movie is on Starz Retroplex
called On The Beach (on right now).

In the scene I just saw Gregory Peck is watching a road race.  I came in
half through, so I missed some but there is at very least a 100 involved
in a fiery crash, and I think a 100-Six.  Many others of the vintage.  I
don't have PVR on this set or I would be able to report more.

http://www.starz.com/titles/OnTheBeach

It looks like it will be on Starz Mystery again in June

Patton

--
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28
_______________________________________________
S

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 27 09:35:57 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:35:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes on my BJ8
In-Reply-To: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2EB447EA-AB8A-42C3-9DA3-D301AEE4DD5C@sbcglobal.net>

Either the calipers pistons are sticking or the flex hoses are bad  
and restricting the return of the fluid



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 26, 2009, at 6:53 PM, Reynaldo Navarro wrote:

> I have just purchased a 67 BJ8, frame up restoration and my problem  
> is when I apply the brakes it take a couple seconds for the front  
> disc brakes to release, the rear release as soon as the brakes are  
> is off, any suggestions ? any help will be appreciated
> Rey navarro
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 27 09:41:27 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:41:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] oil where it should not be
In-Reply-To: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20090427022740.5344.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <664F409E-8F1C-419B-89CA-1EFAB31FE607@sbcglobal.net>

If the block was not cleaned correctly there could be some residual  
oil in the block from the machine work. Since there is no sign of  
water in the oil I would say there probably is not any problem with  
cracks. The head gasket will only fit on one way.  I would first try  
some radiator flush cleaner then run water only for a while and flush  
the system several times.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 26, 2009, at 7:27 PM, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> a new member joined our car club this morning.  he showed up in a  
> beautiful, newly restored 65 bj8.  he has had it since 1970 and  
> says he is the second owner.  he had it restored somewhere in  
> california and the restorer had subbed out the engine work.  he  
> stated he was having a problem with oil in his cooant, and had had  
> it drained and replaced at least three times.  everything was stock  
> except for a 6 blade fan and new aluminum radiator.  i took the cap  
> off and stuck my finger in there to the second joint and it was all  
> oil of some kind.  we ran it for a few minutes and i checked the  
> sump for milky oil, but it was clear and was full to the mark.    
> engine ran fine with no miss, and i was in a hurry and forgot to  
> check for air bubbling up in rad, but is it possible that head  
> gasket is on wrong allowing oil to get to water but not the other  
> way.  i told him i would check with "brain trust" and see if i  
> could get some ideas on where to start.   thanks for any help.      
> hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Apr 27 09:53:37 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 11:53:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
In-Reply-To: <49F5B9CD.7060101@bellsouth.net>
References: <49F5B9CD.7060101@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <COL109-W445E7C0F628ABC93E153D9AD710@phx.gbl>

You might want to go for the double core radiator, really makes a difference
and you can't tell that you have them.

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 09:57:33 -0400
> From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
>
> I have had overheating problems on my BN-1 so I put in new hoses, a new
> thermostat and a Griffin aluminum radiator. Yesterday in 88 degree
> temperature in stop and go the car got up to over 200 but not boiling.
> What is next? a larger fan?
>
> @nd question: I put in LeMans carbs and a cold air box to mainly get rid
> of vapor lock when everything else didn't work. The problem is solved,
> but yesterday when the car got to about 3000rpms it would quit and then
> run when the car got to about 2000. At 25-2700 it ran great. I have a 1
> year old fuel pump and a clear gas filter. Could the larger carbs be the
> cause and if so what is the best approach?
>
> Tanks for all your help, past and present.
>
> Bob Memler
> 54 BN-1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dan at warner-associates.com  Mon Apr 27 10:40:20 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 11:40:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
In-Reply-To: <D8016659D00049F59F476A6882CDBD33@oscar>
Message-ID: <8A8B6FA54CF640F5B4218E249C32A5DD@DANSTROM>

Dave:
Would it not be normal for some radiator percolation after shut off on a
95-degree day?  My BJ8 seems to run around 190/195 (at least that is what
the rebuilt gage says) and then ticks up to 212 after I turn the motor off.
I can hear some noise coming from the radiator area.  Only happens on hot
days.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Porter
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 9:09 AM
To: 'Bob Memler'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 more questions

The old temp gauges are horribly inaccurate. Check that first. If you car
isn't actually boiling over/steaming out the overflow then it's probably not
as bad as you think.
 Aluminum is not a great heat exchanger, probably the increased volume helps
though.
 2nd. No clue. But fuel starvation sounds plausible.
dave 

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Memler
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 7:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions

I have had overheating problems on my BN-1 so I put in new hoses, a new 
thermostat and a Griffin aluminum radiator. Yesterday in 88 degree 
temperature in stop and go the car got up to over 200 but not boiling. 
What is next? a larger fan?

@nd question: I put in LeMans carbs and a cold air box to mainly get rid 
of vapor lock when everything else didn't work. The problem is solved, 
but yesterday when the car got to about 3000rpms it would quit and then 
run when the car got to about 2000. At 25-2700 it ran great. I have a 1 
year old fuel pump and a clear gas filter. Could the larger carbs be the 
cause and if so what is the best approach?

Tanks for all your help, past and present.

Bob Memler
54 BN-1
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 27 11:50:10 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:50:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
In-Reply-To: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C229131-CD47-4B94-8D12-FF59E3CFF5E7@sbcglobal.net>

You can send them to either Porterfield Brakes or Hawk Brakes and  
they can line with all different materials.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
..
..



On Apr 26, 2009, at 8:57 PM, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:

> Hello list,
>
>
>
> Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with  
> the new
> ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>
> MitchB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Apr 27 11:59:20 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:59:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally
Message-ID: <26AD6F4EA46E423AAAE5E76A47DB510D@TRACY>

Some photos from the rally.  We ran into another Healey returning from the
Chico shine and show.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68144590 at N00/sets/72157617290052702/

 

#60

 

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 27 12:00:02 2009
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 11:00:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cables
In-Reply-To: <49F4C2E4.10703@comcast.net>
References: <49F4C2E4.10703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C9681AA7-6841-4535-B96F-82DCF5E46926@sbcglobal.net>

Bob, we have the terminals and cable available in a complete set or  
we can make up the individual cables




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 26, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Early Healeys, the ones with 2 6-volt batteries, have a short cable  
> that connects the batteries in series.  The original type cable  
> connector has a (Pb?) 'cap' with a tapping screw in the center (I  
> believe--hard to tell exactly from photos/drawings).  Anyway, does  
> anybody know a source for these original-type cables (both for the  
> interconnect and from battery to switch and battery to solenoid)?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Apr 27 12:17:33 2009
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 14:17:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Leaded gas
Message-ID: <bc0.5323732c.372750bd@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/27/09 10:52:17 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Shoulda said leaded gas is impossible to get here in California (except
> for
> avgas).  I can get 93- and 100-octane racing gas, but it's unleaded.
>
>
> Bob
>

first pump on the left at the entrance to the paddock at Infineon Sears
Point -- you don't think we run unleaded gas in our race cars, do you?
Next time you're out there, you could fill up on 100, 110, or 120 leaded,
should you wish.
Cheers
Gary


**************
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2
easy steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220572846x1201387511/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;hmpgID=62&amp;
bcd=Aprilfooter427NO62)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 12:36:29 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 18:36:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <bc0.5323732c.372750bd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1063358140.697061240857389317.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

OK, I sit corrected. Leaded gas is available at certain venues (airports and race tracks). Try buying some at the corner Rotten Robbie ;) 

I'd keep it low profile; the greenies are just looking for that sort of 'offense' (they're after avgas already). 

FWIW, avgas has a lower Reid Vapor Pressure than most autogas and may not work as well in cold climates. 



bs 





> Shoulda said leaded gas is impossible to get here in California (except 
> for 
> avgas). I can get 93- and 100-octane racing gas, but it's unleaded. 
> 
> 
> Bob 
> 

first pump on the left at the entrance to the paddock at Infineon Sears 
Point -- you don't think we run unleaded gas in our race cars, do you? 
Next time you're out there, you could fill up on 100, 110, or 120 leaded, 
should you wish. 
Cheers 
Gary 

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Apr 27 13:18:49 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 15:18:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust header
In-Reply-To: <009401c9c746$f5f45b40$e1dd11c0$@org>
References: <cdd.4d5bf25c.3721d8f9@aol.com><1E0C74D94483496DA8B1EBF6B51ECBFC@Dell>
	<464235760-1240751954-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1641273715-@bxe1001.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<D42F4FA6A7F44260954A5D55951A0E35@Dell>
	<009401c9c746$f5f45b40$e1dd11c0$@org>
Message-ID: <005801c9c76c$febe9cb0$fc3bd610$@net>

Posted on the Technical page of my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Al Fuller [mailto:al at bighealey.org] 
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:47 AM
To: 'Alan Bromfield'
Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] exhaust header

Thanks - very clear!!

Al

Al Fuller
al at bighealey.org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Bromfield [mailto:alan.bromfield at virgin.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 11:59 AM
To: al at bighealey.org
Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] exhaust header

Hi Al.
See attached. I hope this helps. I've also copied JohnS as others may be
interested

I hope That's ok with you John - %^)

AlanB

-----Original Message-----
From: al at bighealey.org [mailto:al at bighealey.org]
Sent: 26 April 2009 14:19
To: Alan Bromfield
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust header

Alan - can I get the pics too?
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>

Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 16:53:30
To: <Warthodson at aol.com>; <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust header


Hi Gary.

I'm not convinced that these new rubbers will settle very much. A sixteenth
maybe but not the half inch plus you are looking for.  My solution was a bit
different and can best be explained with the pics attached.  The list will
strip them for others so bear with me.

The clearance for the rebound rubber to the top of the engine mount rubber
is 1/22" (see clearance.jpg) and you are expected to shim that down to
reduce the gap.  The gap is enormous and will take more than shims!  1/22"
is less than 1mm and any settling in the engine mount would use up that gap
very quickly.  It certainly wouldn't settle further once the gap had closed
completely.  The diagonal offset I mentioned in the engine mount block,
presents an edge to the rebound rubber and not the pair of metal plates that
would be expected if the plates were parallel. My fix came in two parts.

From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 27 15:47:06 2009
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 17:47:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] RE Overheating
Message-ID: <COL116-W33E530DCDA01A6BA04F073B8710@phx.gbl>

If you have checked all the usual suspects and everything is OK get a good
radiator shop to add extra rows to the radiator. I had it done for my BJ7 and
now my baby runs cool under just about every condition.  That includes
sustained high speeds in 90 + degree temps.  I have tried just about
everything else (electric fans, oil cooler, six blade fans, mixture and timing
changes, etc) and never was able to control the temp until I had the radiator
modified.  The expanded radiator uses the original upper tank and they split
and expanded the lower tank.  The radiator looks stock but I needed a shoe
horn to install it.  It did fit OK although tight.

Good luck but check out everything else first.

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Mon Apr 27 17:05:26 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 16:05:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <1063358140.697061240857389317.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <bc0.5323732c.372750bd@aol.com>
	<1063358140.697061240857389317.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904271605w3f8ec8d4nb55eaa5d4ec45acb@mail.gmail.com>

You can get leaded 110 gas at some Union 76 stations.  I get it in 5 gallon
cans at a 76 station in Redlands.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 11:36 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> OK, I sit corrected. Leaded gas is available at certain venues (airports
> and race tracks). Try buying some at the corner Rotten Robbie ;)
>
> I'd keep it low profile; the greenies are just looking for that sort of
> 'offense' (they're after avgas already).
>
> FWIW, avgas has a lower Reid Vapor Pressure than most autogas and may not
> work as well in cold climates.
>
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
>
>
> > Shoulda said leaded gas is impossible to get here in California (except
> > for
> > avgas). I can get 93- and 100-octane racing gas, but it's unleaded.
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
> first pump on the left at the entrance to the paddock at Infineon Sears
> Point -- you don't think we run unleaded gas in our race cars, do you?
> Next time you're out there, you could fill up on 100, 110, or 120 leaded,
> should you wish.
> Cheers
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 27 17:37:47 2009
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 16:37:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130904271605w3f8ec8d4nb55eaa5d4ec45acb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bc0.5323732c.372750bd@aol.com>
	<1063358140.697061240857389317.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<d49b03130904271605w3f8ec8d4nb55eaa5d4ec45acb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <u8gcv4lnnd4jdl6ihdpcq3o6vvn63p8ktt@4ax.com>

It appears to be available at the pump at 'the' gas station in Rancho
Santa Fe, for around $9 per gallon. Unless you can buy unleaded 110
octane.

-Roland

On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 16:05:26 -0700, you wrote:

::You can get leaded 110 gas at some Union 76 stations.  I get it in 5 gallon
::cans at a 76 station in Redlands.
::Mike MacLean
::56 BN2
::60 AN5

From bighealey at astound.net  Mon Apr 27 19:38:37 2009
From: bighealey at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 18:38:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally
References: <26AD6F4EA46E423AAAE5E76A47DB510D@TRACY>
Message-ID: <BFD96A909B0548038B94DEF1C1A8AF40@Soderling>

Thanks, Tracy.  Looks like the pictures were taken by the Volvo club.  Had a 
hard time finding your Healey.  How did the new hard top work?  Glad you're 
back safe and sound.

Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally


> Some photos from the rally.  We ran into another Healey returning from the
> Chico shine and show.
>
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/68144590 at N00/sets/72157617290052702/
>
>
>
> #60
>
>
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 20:02:14 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 19:02:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 2 more questions
In-Reply-To: <8A8B6FA54CF640F5B4218E249C32A5DD@DANSTROM>
References: <8A8B6FA54CF640F5B4218E249C32A5DD@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <49F663A6.3050302@comcast.net>

The temperature increase when you shut down is normal.  It's sometimes referred 
to as "latent heat;" heat that is no longer being dissipated by the radiator and 
fan.

Every car I've had in the last 20 years or so makes a percolating sound at 
engine shutdown.  Perfectly normal.


Bob


Dan Stromquist wrote:
> Dave:
> Would it not be normal for some radiator percolation after shut off on a
> 95-degree day?  My BJ8 seems to run around 190/195 (at least that is what
> the rebuilt gage says) and then ticks up to 212 after I turn the motor off.
> I can hear some noise coming from the radiator area.  Only happens on hot
> days.
> Dan

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Mon Apr 27 22:20:27 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 14:20:27 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes!
Message-ID: <3250DE87ACEA4EECA8B9BF1F17D784CE@PeterPC>

G'day all - I use the above title in both the mechanical and Aussie sense! The
brakes on the Ward Special (BN1) have always been very good and have given no
trouble in my 6 years of ownership. However (and this is going against my
principle of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it) after a discussion with my
local brake man, I was moved to flush the brake system on the car (which I
hadn't done for more years that I care to admit) I syphoned the fluid from the
reservoir, refilled it with fresh fluid and proceeded to bleed the brakes as
normal (I usually do this solo with a one-way valve bleed tube, and have no
trouble) This time, I got a pedal of sorts, enough to drive round the block,
but thought it should be better, so proceeded to bleed the system again. This
time, I had trouble getting a pedal at all, and there seemed to be little
resistance at the pedal. I tried again next day, with my wife operating the
pedal, again with little effect. Some fluid, but not as much as I would
expect, came out of the bleed screws, but appeared to get sucked back in when
the pedal was released - more so than is normal in my experience. On the final
screw (front right), I got nothing from the bleed screw. The reservoir was
kept full throughout.

OK, I thought, master cylinder seals have gone over crud or corrosion. I had a
spare rebuilt master cylinder (brass sleeve and piston, never used) I put new
seals in this just to be sure, and installed it, having primed it with fluid
before putting on the end cap. Result: no change: still no resistance at the
pedal when pumping, and not much fluid from the bleed screws. Worse still, at
one point the pedal went solid (metallic solid, not hydraulic solid) part way
through its travel.

I am totally stumped. Is there somewhere in the system that can trap air and
cause an air lock that can give these symptoms? Any advice from listers will
be much appreciated

Cheers


Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Special coupe
BN1 Holden V6

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Mon Apr 27 22:53:24 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 05:53:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
Message-ID: <000901c9c7bd$43caa470$cb5fed50$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

I've had this happen to me. It's covered in the manual if you can find the
relevant section.....
It seems that air can be sucked back into the system when you raise the
pedal for the next pump. Get your other half to tighten down on the bleed
nipple while the pedal is still descending or, at least, when it is fully
down.
Worked for me.
I've thought of putting some plumbers' PTFE tape on the threads to stop this
happening but haven't tried. Have to experiment first to see if it would
dissolve in the fluid?
Simon.

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Apr 27 23:46:02 2009
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 22:46:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally
In-Reply-To: <BFD96A909B0548038B94DEF1C1A8AF40@Soderling>
Message-ID: <8BAE1977BEA14F3F9707D81267A6EDA3@TRACY>

The hardtop was great.  There are lots more photos out and posted now.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/04/26/2009-snowball-rally-hd-video/


Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: John Soderling [mailto:bighealey at astound.net]
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 6:39 PM
To: Healey List; Tracy Drummond
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally

Thanks, Tracy.  Looks like the pictures were taken by the Volvo club.  Had a

hard time finding your Healey.  How did the new hard top work?  Glad you're
back safe and sound.

Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Another successful Snowball Rally


> Some photos from the rally.  We ran into another Healey returning from the
> Chico shine and show.
>
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/68144590 at N00/sets/72157617290052702/
>
>
>
> #60
>
>
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Tue Apr 28 07:50:39 2009
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 07:50:39 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Miller Motorsport - Le Mans
Message-ID: <SNT104-DS28600153C17E48DE041D3E96E0@phx.gbl>

Anyone headed to Miller Motor Sports Park for the May 15-17 Le Mans series
race?

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Apr 28 09:16:35 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 16:16:35 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
Message-ID: <000001c9c814$54a1c9c0$fde55d40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Hi, This is the excerpt to which I referred last night. It's an extract from
my amended .pdf BMC manual and I hope it reproduces alright. (It was,
originally, a reminder to myself as my printed version is later and slightly
more complete(?) than the .pdf version. Hope that makes sense!)
Quote
This is included in my printed BMC manual and seems worth including here:-
"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time it is
possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such
cases tighten
the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow
the pedal to
return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during
the last pedal
application."
 Unquote.
Simon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 28 09:23:09 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 15:23:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <000001c9c814$54a1c9c0$fde55d40$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Message-ID: <1743215606.1088761240932189748.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I thought that was SOP for bleeding brakes (at least, that's what my pappy taught me ;). 


bs 





Hi, This is the excerpt to which I referred last night. It's an extract from 
my amended .pdf BMC manual and I hope it reproduces alright. (It was, 
originally, a reminder to myself as my printed version is later and slightly 
more complete(?) than the .pdf version. Hope that makes sense!) 
Quote 
This is included in my printed BMC manual and seems worth including here:- 
"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a 
considerable time it is 
possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such 
cases tighten 
the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow 
the pedal to 
return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during 
the last pedal 
application." 
Unquote. 
Simon 

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Tue Apr 28 09:41:10 2009
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 17:41:10 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <-6948244521589840727@unknownmsgid>
References: <-6948244521589840727@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <4e23c7250904280841m11395883k7e0be5891f0f2341@mail.gmail.com>

Simon, in my humble opinion coating the thread with PTFE tape will not have
any effect. The nipple seals with its tapered end in a tapered bore and once
the bleed screw is closed there is no way air can be sucked into the system.
I think the problem lies in an incorrect bleeding procedure: one has to
close the bleed screw fully just before the pedal has reached its utmost
down position.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

2009/4/28 Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>

> I've had this happen to me. It's covered in the manual if you can find the
> relevant section.....
> It seems that air can be sucked back into the system when you raise the
> pedal for the next pump. Get your other half to tighten down on the bleed
> nipple while the pedal is still descending or, at least, when it is fully
> down.
> Worked for me.
> I've thought of putting some plumbers' PTFE tape on the threads to stop
> this
> happening but haven't tried. Have to experiment first to see if it would
> dissolve in the fluid?
> Simon.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as j.aeckerlin at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Tue Apr 28 09:53:21 2009
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 08:53:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <ABE3CD62373841FB80766C68F4612589@benders>
References: <mailman.21920.1240629138.3542.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<ABE3CD62373841FB80766C68F4612589@benders>
Message-ID: <03D41A14397C4A14BA9CAEC9521267D1@ecarecenters.net>

I agree...check the coil....I had a brand new accel coil that my ohm meter
indicated was in fault.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Bender
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 7:27 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II

Jim,
I would check the coil.  I've seen the same thing happen before.
It's easy enough to throw in a known good used coil and give it a try.
They are famous for letting your car warm up before they quit.
Good luck,
Bob Bender

On 4/25/09, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:
> After the running problem I ordered a new Petronix from Moss ($138.00 
> w/
> shipping) and it came yesterday. Before I tackled the repair I tried 
> to start the car again and it started right up. I let it run for a 
> while and after it got up to temperature for a while it died! Let cool 
> off and tried it again with the same results. So, I assume that the 
> problem is not the Petronix. I have checked all the wiring and 
> connectors. I double checked the rotor and can see no wear. Could it 
> be the coil? Maybe it is shorting out when it gets hot? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as britishcars at shaw.ca

http://www.team.net/archive

From clocks at midcoast.com  Tue Apr 28 12:35:27 2009
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 14:35:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
References: <mailman.21920.1240629138.3542.healeys@autox.team.net><ABE3CD62373841FB80766C68F4612589@benders>
	<03D41A14397C4A14BA9CAEC9521267D1@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <1C9CCF22AAD74C53B22326F7EC97C0BA@JIM>

After many fruitless hours of searching, a new coil and a new Pertronix I 
think  have found the problem. The clip on the outside of the distributor 
cap ( the one that is impossible to see and hard to snap ) was bend enough 
so that it would snap on when the  cap was not all the way down. The snap 
would allow the cap to come loose on one side just enough to raise it enough 
so that the rotor no longer passed the metal tabs correctly. That might also 
allow the spring loaded center piece from the coil wire to no longer touch 
the rotor. It is very hard to see when in place and not noticeable unless 
you looked at the cap from the side.The gap was not more than 1/16" and only 
on the one side of the cap. That's why when I fiddled with the cap trying to 
find the problem it would start. After running for a while it would loosen 
up without actually coming off and she would stop again. For now, I think 
the problem is solved. If not you will not need the computer to hear me 
bitching. Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 28 12:46:28 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:46:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <1C9CCF22AAD74C53B22326F7EC97C0BA@JIM>
Message-ID: <556124423.1207631240944388638.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Did you apologize to your Pertronix unit (they're pretty sensitive)? 

;) 


bs 




After many fruitless hours of searching, a new coil and a new Pertronix I 
think have found the problem. The clip on the outside of the distributor 
cap ( the one that is impossible to see and hard to snap ) was bend enough 
so that it would snap on when the cap was not all the way down. The snap 
would allow the cap to come loose on one side just enough to raise it enough 
so that the rotor no longer passed the metal tabs correctly. That might also 
allow the spring loaded center piece from the coil wire to no longer touch 
the rotor. It is very hard to see when in place and not noticeable unless 
you looked at the cap from the side.The gap was not more than 1/16" and only 
on the one side of the cap. That's why when I fiddled with the cap trying to 
find the problem it would start. After running for a while it would loosen 
up without actually coming off and she would stop again. For now, I think 
the problem is solved. If not you will not need the computer to hear me 
bitching. Cheers, JL 

James Lea 
PO Box 25 
Rockport Maine 04856 
1-207-236-3632 

1951 Triumph Renown 
1952 MG TD 
1952 Triumph Mayflower 
1958 Rover P4 
1962 Austin Healey BT7 
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From markbrn at earthlink.net  Tue Apr 28 13:03:09 2009
From: markbrn at earthlink.net (Mark Brown)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 12:03:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
Message-ID: <7C27F229-4B1D-4A53-B9B6-E6EE6656AD90@earthlink.net>

I am selling my 1965 BJ8 3000 MarkII. It had a frame off restoration  
in 2003 with less than 1000 miles since. Due to health problems I am  
selling at $30,000.00! Contact me off list at markbrn at earhlink.net or  
call after 6:00pm . Car is located in northern California. See photo  
in club magazine market place (ignore stated price).
Thank you,
Mark Brown

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Apr 28 18:33:43 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:33:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
	<49F4839C.20507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>


"I've never seen a repair kit for Whitworth stuff; if it exists you'll spend 
an arm and a leg for it."

Whitworth thread repair kits are made by Uni-thread, and they are not that 
expensive.  However, like helicoil, they are for repairing tapped holes, not 
bolts or screws.
I have all the common sizes which use on my old Brit bikes and have 
successfully have repaired many threads from chain cover fasteners to the 
hole for a cylinder head stud.

These guys below are in New York somewhere and have been helpful to me in 
the past, but I am pretty sure Uni-thread will be available as an order 
through your local parts supplier. They are made in Oz for all you lucky 
down-unders.

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=340

Cheers,

Mirek

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Apr 28 18:59:29 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:59:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>

In a recent post,  Dave Porter wrote: "The old temp gauges are horribly
inaccurate".

I am not sure what Dave means by "old" (just 4 bangers or all Healeys?), and I
only have experience with one, but when I had my gauge and sending unit out I
tested it out of curiosity using a laboratory thermometer (highly accurate)
and a pot of water I brought to boiling on the cooktop.

When the gauge read 160 degrees, the temp was actually 159.8, and when it
indicated 190 degrees it was actually 189.

I was impressed!

I am not disputing that in general they may be inaccurate, but mine is great -
anyone else got any hard data?

cheers,

Mirek
1969 BT7 (and I am sticking to it until my Heritage Certificate is replaced)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 28 19:00:59 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:00:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
	<49F4839C.20507@comcast.net>
	<BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net>

Cool.  Good to know (think the port threads on a fuel pump are larger than any 
on that site, though).


Bob


Mirek Sharp wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> 
> "I've never seen a repair kit for Whitworth stuff; if it exists you'll 
> spend an arm and a leg for it."
> 
> Whitworth thread repair kits are made by Uni-thread, and they are not 
> that expensive.  However, like helicoil, they are for repairing tapped 
> holes, not bolts or screws.
> I have all the common sizes which use on my old Brit bikes and have 
> successfully have repaired many threads from chain cover fasteners to 
> the hole for a cylinder head stud.
> 
> These guys below are in New York somewhere and have been helpful to me 
> in the past, but I am pretty sure Uni-thread will be available as an 
> order through your local parts supplier. They are made in Oz for all you 
> lucky down-unders.
> 
> http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=340 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mirek

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Apr 28 19:16:23 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 21:16:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re:  healey overheating and avgas
References: <B2A23E5A-498F-4120-BBA8-D94A6BEB7188@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP101AE1B5BF311BF15FC6339C36F0@phx.gbl>

"Mark Schneider"  wrote

" Most Brit cars seem to have a propensity to "run on" or diesel  after 
killing the ignition."

and

"If you have access to aviation gas it works the same way".

I have never had "running on" problems with the few Brit cars I have had, 
including 34 years with a Healey, unless it is out of tune.  I use unleaded 
Sunoco 92,  or 94 when I can get it, and it works just fine.  Bob - if you 
have running on problems you have a timing or mixture issue, or the engine 
is running to hot and your cooling system needs attention.  It is possible 
to get running on caused by a "glowplug" affect in the combustion chamber, 
but I think this is uncommon.   That said, I had a bike where someone had 
used a composite aftermarket gasket which protruded into the combustion 
chamber a wee bit and when I took the head off the thin copper was burned to 
a crisp and was probably igniting the mixture at the wrong time.  A 
correctly fitting gasket fixed the pre-ignition I was getting. I always 
check the fit of the head gasket before installing to ensure it does not 
overlap into the cylinder.

Re Avgas: Someone with more chemistry than me told me that Avgas is 
formulated differently owing to the specific conditions it used for (i.e. 
low RPMs at many thousands of feet ASL.). He suggested that this formulation 
is not necessarily good for car or bike engines.  This is somewhat 
anecdotal, and I know a few guys who run Avgas in motorcycle engines, but I 
have shied away from it.

cheers,

Mirek

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Apr 28 19:17:56 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 19:17:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge accuracy
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5D4E41761B704334BA6333ED8120692A@oscar>

OK, maybe not everyone, but my best guess is 3 out of 5 tend to read at
least 10-15 degrees high; YRMV. "Old" would be pretty synonymous with any
and all Healey's. 
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 6:59 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy

In a recent post,  Dave Porter wrote: "The old temp gauges are horribly
inaccurate".

I am not sure what Dave means by "old" (just 4 bangers or all Healeys?), and
I
only have experience with one, but when I had my gauge and sending unit out
I
tested it out of curiosity using a laboratory thermometer (highly accurate)
and a pot of water I brought to boiling on the cooktop.

When the gauge read 160 degrees, the temp was actually 159.8, and when it
indicated 190 degrees it was actually 189.

I was impressed!

I am not disputing that in general they may be inaccurate, but mine is great
-
anyone else got any hard data?

cheers,

Mirek
1969 BT7 (and I am sticking to it until my Heritage Certificate is replaced)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Tue Apr 28 19:24:14 2009
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 01:24:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys]  Steel Fuel line (pipe) replacement suggestion
Message-ID: <326010656.1756101240968254619.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Listers-


I originally planned on reusing my original long fuel line, until I kinked
upon reassembly and it cracked where it had rust weakness. Better off. The
problem created was replacing with a line that had original fittings and
original look. I decided to zinc plate copper pipe (the soft, bendable type).
I purchased 3/8 pipe, and was going to drill out the original fittings (5/16")
to accept the oversize copper. Ray Carbone was helping me twist up the new
line, and suggested that I see if the 5/16 pipe would fit into the 3/8 ID new
pipe. It Worked! I left about 1/2" of the old pipe on each fitting, and after
filing for proper fit, cleaning and fluxing, I shoved the pieces together.
Sweated them together, and the new pipe and old fittings are airtight.


To make the line pressure testable, I used the fitting off the old flex fuel
line from the front and capped it with a vacuum nippl e cap. For the rear end
of the hose, I used a small o-ring to seal between the line and a standardB 
B 1/4"B  air hose quickB  disconnectB  fitting. This created a system that
could be plugged into my air compressor (at 10 psi), an remain pressurized.
Once done, I checked both ends for leaks with soap, and it was airtight. It
was an inexpensive fix- less than the price of shipping for prebent lines, and
even though copper, the zinc finish looks correct.


Regards, Tom

From robertlarson at att.net  Tue Apr 28 19:43:41 2009
From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 21:43:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
	<49F4839C.20507@comcast.net>
	<BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl>
	<49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <49F7B0CD.1030600@att.net>

Are these possibly correct?

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=345 
<http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=345>

I think the fittings on the pump are BSP (British Standard Pipe).  There 
are 2 varieties of it.  A tapered and straight version and these repair 
kits don't specify which they are though.

Bob

 
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Cool.  Good to know (think the port threads on a fuel pump are larger 
> than any on that site, though).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> Mirek Sharp wrote:
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>> "I've never seen a repair kit for Whitworth stuff; if it exists 
>> you'll spend an arm and a leg for it."
>>
>> Whitworth thread repair kits are made by Uni-thread, and they are not 
>> that expensive.  However, like helicoil, they are for repairing 
>> tapped holes, not bolts or screws.
>> I have all the common sizes which use on my old Brit bikes and have 
>> successfully have repaired many threads from chain cover fasteners to 
>> the hole for a cylinder head stud.
>>
>> These guys below are in New York somewhere and have been helpful to 
>> me in the past, but I am pretty sure Uni-thread will be available as 
>> an order through your local parts supplier. They are made in Oz for 
>> all you lucky down-unders.
>>
>> http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=340 
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Mirek

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Apr 28 20:03:06 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 19:03:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <49F7B0CD.1030600@att.net>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com>
	<49F4839C.20507@comcast.net>
	<BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl>
	<49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net> <49F7B0CD.1030600@att.net>
Message-ID: <49F7B55A.1060304@comcast.net>

I just made a (rough) measurement of the threads on one of my (many) spare 
pumps.  From inside of thread to inside of thread is about 9/16" give or take. 
It does not appear to be a pipe thread.


bs



Bob wrote:
> Are these possibly correct?
> 
> http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=345 
> <http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=345> 
> 
> 
> I think the fittings on the pump are BSP (British Standard Pipe).  There 
> are 2 varieties of it.  A tapered and straight version and these repair 
> kits don't specify which they are though.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Cool.  Good to know (think the port threads on a fuel pump are larger 
>> than any on that site, though).
>>
>>
>> Bob

*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Tue Apr 28 20:13:30 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 22:13:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
Message-ID: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>

My BJ7 makes a metallic-sounding rattling noise, coming more or less from
the right rear of the car when I accelerate hard pulling away from a stop
sign.  It sounds almost like I am dragging part of my exhaust system or some
piece of sheet metal is hitting a rotating part.  If I accelerate gently I
don't get the noise.  It happens mostly in first gear but occasionally in
second as well.  The car runs smoothly at parkway speeds.

I have checked:

- The drive shaft does not seem to be hitting anything.
- The exhaust system is mounted solidly and does not appear to be hitting
anything.
- I insulated the rod which links the right side hand brake lever with the
one on the left wheel where it passes through a loop on the back of the
differential.
- I insulated the brake cable casing where it contacts the spring on the
right side of the car.
- I pulled the right rear brake drum and found no loose parts.
- The rear wheels do not seem to be contacting the body of the car.

One more clue is that this noise started happening right after a made
several hard (like stand on the brakes) stops while testing my brakes last
fall.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Apr 28 21:45:51 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:45:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
Message-ID: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?

Jerry
BJ8
in progress

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ctd/1142945488.html

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 28 23:34:33 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:34:33 +0900
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
References: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904282234q41717b11i1d5ede4384cb1594@mail.gmail.com>

How 'bout you try not to accelerate so hard.

Badumpsh!

Have you checked your spline hubs for wear or the wire wheels for broken spokes?

Alan


On 4/29/09, Peter Schauss <schauss at worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> My BJ7 makes a metallic-sounding rattling noise, coming more or less from
> the right rear of the car when I accelerate hard pulling away from a stop
> sign.  It sounds almost like I am dragging part of my exhaust system or some
> piece of sheet metal is hitting a rotating part.  If I accelerate gently I
> don't get the noise.  It happens mostly in first gear but occasionally in
> second as well.  The car runs smoothly at parkway speeds.
>
> I have checked:
>
> - The drive shaft does not seem to be hitting anything.
> - The exhaust system is mounted solidly and does not appear to be hitting
> anything.
> - I insulated the rod which links the right side hand brake lever with the
> one on the left wheel where it passes through a loop on the back of the
> differential.
> - I insulated the brake cable casing where it contacts the spring on the
> right side of the car.
> - I pulled the right rear brake drum and found no loose parts.
> - The rear wheels do not seem to be contacting the body of the car.
>
> One more clue is that this noise started happening right after a made
> several hard (like stand on the brakes) stops while testing my brakes last
> fall.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Apr 28 23:38:17 2009
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:38:17 +0900
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix II
In-Reply-To: <556124423.1207631240944388638.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1C9CCF22AAD74C53B22326F7EC97C0BA@JIM>
	<556124423.1207631240944388638.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0904282238k2e7c6974ia394e34d99e76193@mail.gmail.com>

James - thanks for following up and sharing that.  It's good info to
know, and something to look for if I have the same problem.

Alan

On 4/29/09, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> Did you apologize to your Pertronix unit (they're pretty sensitive)?
>
> ;)
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
>
> After many fruitless hours of searching, a new coil and a new Pertronix I
> think have found the problem. The clip on the outside of the distributor
> cap ( the one that is impossible to see and hard to snap ) was bend enough
> so that it would snap on when the cap was not all the way down. The snap
> would allow the cap to come loose on one side just enough to raise it enough
> so that the rotor no longer passed the metal tabs correctly. That might also
> allow the spring loaded center piece from the coil wire to no longer touch
> the rotor. It is very hard to see when in place and not noticeable unless
> you looked at the cap from the side.The gap was not more than 1/16" and only
> on the one side of the cap. That's why when I fiddled with the cap trying to
> find the problem it would start. After running for a while it would loosen
> up without actually coming off and she would stop again. For now, I think
> the problem is solved. If not you will not need the computer to hear me
> bitching. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Wed Apr 29 01:23:06 2009
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 17:23:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
References: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090429172306.13554f5mz84lyau2@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

PETER 

I  once had a noise created by the handbrake cable rubbing on the driveshaft. Acceleration causes the nose of the diff to change angle and position 

Joe

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Apr 29 02:09:07 2009
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 18:09:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder!
Message-ID: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>

Many thanks to you all the suggestions & advice!

Another  long-suffering Queensland club member, George Goss and I spent
another 3 hours today on the brakes, and eventually got fluid flowing through
the system and a pedal of sorts. The trick appeared to be to pump up the pedal
until there was some sort of resistance, then open the bleed screw, close when
the pedal's down, & repeat till no air comes out. We clamped the hoses on the
lines not being bled. The situation was complicated by (a) the bleed screws,
which have a ball bearing to form the seal. One seemed to be stuck in the
cylinder, and we only began to make progess when we were able to blow it out
by removing the screw & pumping the pedal. And (b) air apparently leaking
around the bleed screw theads, giving the impression that there was still air
in the system (opening the screw only enough to force the fluid out by
increased pedal pressure diagnosed this).

So now the car stops, but I'm not satisfied that it's right, as the pedal is
lower than it was before all this started. I'm not sure I'll risk a 250 km
round trip at the weekend to a classic car/aircraft meet (including a mountain
range climb/descent)!

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

From craigsuerice at iquest.net  Wed Apr 29 03:29:26 2009
From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig and Sue Rice)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 04:29:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com><49F4839C.20507@comcast.net><BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl><49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net>
	<49F7B0CD.1030600@att.net> <49F7B55A.1060304@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4db601c9c8ad$0aa2ab20$8e622bd1@iquest.net>

Bob,
Fuel fittings are British Standard Pipe (tapered thread) or British Standard
Pipe Parallel (straight thread). I don't believe any Whitworth was used in
fuel lines or components.
Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: <robertlarson at att.net>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump


> I just made a (rough) measurement of the threads on one of my (many) spare
> pumps.  From inside of thread to inside of thread is about 9/16" give or
take.
> It does not appear to be a pipe thread.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Bob wrote:
> > Are these possibly correct?
> >
> >
http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=345
> >
<http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF
&Category_Code=345>
> >
> >
> > I think the fittings on the pump are BSP (British Standard Pipe).  There
> > are 2 varieties of it.  A tapered and straight version and these repair
> > kits don't specify which they are though.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > Bob Spidell wrote:
> >> Cool.  Good to know (think the port threads on a fuel pump are larger
> >> than any on that site, though).
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as craigsuerice at iquest.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.12.6/2084 - Release Date: 4/28/09
6:15 AM

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Apr 29 05:58:46 2009
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 06:58:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder!
Message-ID: <1514165989.109841.1241006326604.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net>


From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Apr 29 06:23:31 2009
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 13:23:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder!
In-Reply-To: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
References: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <000301c9c8c5$51f80110$f5e80330$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

I wonder if you have got an ageing set of some form of "Easy-bleeder" type
thingies in your brakes.
It might pay you to revert to the original type or to buy some new ones
per:-
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
You'd need part no. SB3824 or choose your preference per below.
SB3824, thread 3/8 X 24,  length 1.29in. 
SB3824HD, thread 3/8 X 24, length 1.33in. 
SB3824L, thread 3/8 X 24, length 1.53in.
For interest's sake, I recall that mine did a first class job when I first
used them. Thereafter, they seemed to be leaking around the threads! They
come with a sort of PTFE like solidish goo painted on the threads. This,
presumably, is less useful second time around, when it's been opened and
closed as it were. They supply the same goo in a liquid form which you can
paint on for subsequent applications. But having to remove them completely
kind of loses the point of having them in the first place....? Take the
"Easy" out of the bleeding.
I've always hated bleeding brakes....messy, frustrating, often futile and
always with some snag.
Simon.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 06:28:44 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 08:28:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
References: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E60DE2550F2E4535B95EDF6222042EF1@ophrdc.org>

Peter,

Check for marks on the driveshaft and hand brake cable. Torqueing the axle 
moves the position of the diff pinion flange and can place the drive shaft 
in a different place than when at rest. Also check for loose clips or cracks 
in the leaf spring. You may have snapped a leaf.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
To: "'Healey Mail List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration


> My BJ7 makes a metallic-sounding rattling noise, coming more or less from
> the right rear of the car when I accelerate hard pulling away from a stop
> sign.  It sounds almost like I am dragging part of my exhaust system or 
> some
> piece of sheet metal is hitting a rotating part.  If I accelerate gently I
> don't get the noise.  It happens mostly in first gear but occasionally in
> second as well.  The car runs smoothly at parkway speeds.
>
> I have checked:
>
> - The drive shaft does not seem to be hitting anything.
> - The exhaust system is mounted solidly and does not appear to be hitting
> anything.
> - I insulated the rod which links the right side hand brake lever with the
> one on the left wheel where it passes through a loop on the back of the
> differential.
> - I insulated the brake cable casing where it contacts the spring on the
> right side of the car.
> - I pulled the right rear brake drum and found no loose parts.
> - The rear wheels do not seem to be contacting the body of the car.
>
> One more clue is that this noise started happening right after a made
> several hard (like stand on the brakes) stops while testing my brakes last
> fall.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Apr 29 06:35:43 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 06:35:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <E60DE2550F2E4535B95EDF6222042EF1@ophrdc.org>
References: <20090429021329.3324218764F@autox.team.net>
	<E60DE2550F2E4535B95EDF6222042EF1@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <0AE0ECB2D9BB44CB97E25CC5E1D1E530@oscar>

Loose shock absorber?
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 6:29 AM
To: Peter Schauss; 'Healey Mail List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration

Peter,

Check for marks on the driveshaft and hand brake cable. Torqueing the axle 
moves the position of the diff pinion flange and can place the drive shaft 
in a different place than when at rest. Also check for loose clips or cracks

in the leaf spring. You may have snapped a leaf.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
To: "'Healey Mail List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration


> My BJ7 makes a metallic-sounding rattling noise, coming more or less from
> the right rear of the car when I accelerate hard pulling away from a stop
> sign.  It sounds almost like I am dragging part of my exhaust system or 
> some
> piece of sheet metal is hitting a rotating part.  If I accelerate gently I
> don't get the noise.  It happens mostly in first gear but occasionally in
> second as well.  The car runs smoothly at parkway speeds.
>
> I have checked:
>
> - The drive shaft does not seem to be hitting anything.
> - The exhaust system is mounted solidly and does not appear to be hitting
> anything.
> - I insulated the rod which links the right side hand brake lever with the
> one on the left wheel where it passes through a loop on the back of the
> differential.
> - I insulated the brake cable casing where it contacts the spring on the
> right side of the car.
> - I pulled the right rear brake drum and found no loose parts.
> - The rear wheels do not seem to be contacting the body of the car.
>
> One more clue is that this noise started happening right after a made
> several hard (like stand on the brakes) stops while testing my brakes last
> fall.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 06:33:45 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 08:33:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder!
References: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <D7D26D7A94F246B08DD45B9022FA84AE@ophrdc.org>

> So now the car stops, but I'm not satisfied that it's right, as the pedal 
> is
> lower than it was before all this started. I'm not sure I'll risk a 250 km
> round trip at the weekend to a classic car/aircraft meet (including a 
> mountain
> range climb/descent)!
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz

Being that the car is a Hundred, I'd suggest that you now take up the 
correct free play adjustment in the master cylinder pedal shaft which will 
bring your pedal travel up. There's a fine line between having it adjusted 
up correctly and having it too far up which, once the braking system warms 
up, can cause the brakes to expand slightly and drag. You may now have 
better braking than you've had for a long time with all the air removed and 
things working as they should.

Rich Chrysler 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 06:36:23 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 08:36:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>

Well, it's a lovely and known car with provenance. Other than the rather 
poorly done seats and armrest (should also not have white piping) it's a 
fine car.
I'd like to be kept informed for the Hundred Registry records of who the new 
owner may be.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>
> Jerry
> BJ8
> in progress
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ctd/1142945488.html
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 29 06:46:09 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 05:46:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <4db601c9c8ad$0aa2ab20$8e622bd1@iquest.net>
References: <B3522DC8C7AB445BA3D0C8942CBD5572@RAC><ff59076c0904252337m2d296c67if9876158f91867ce@mail.gmail.com><49F4839C.20507@comcast.net><BLU0-SMTP2321C7461A1F969C111A82C36F0@phx.gbl><49F7A6CB.9020909@comcast.net>
	<49F7B0CD.1030600@att.net> <49F7B55A.1060304@comcast.net>
	<4db601c9c8ad$0aa2ab20$8e622bd1@iquest.net>
Message-ID: <49F84C11.4010702@comcast.net>

Good to know.  Thanks.

Got me to wondering if anybody has a list of which fasteners are which type on 
our Healeys (think Norman's Tech Book has a list of equivalencies, but don't 
remember if there's a list of which fastener goes where).  My father and I have 
been, uh, surprised by some UNF threads in places we didn't expect (near-match 
SAE nuts will go on easily for about half the diameter of the thread then jam).


Bob


Craig and Sue Rice wrote:
> Bob,
> Fuel fittings are British Standard Pipe (tapered thread) or British Standard
> Pipe Parallel (straight thread). I don't believe any Whitworth was used in
> fuel lines or components.
> Craig Rice
> BN1 & BN2
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: <robertlarson at att.net>
> Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 9:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped Outlet on Fuel Pump
> 
> 
>> I just made a (rough) measurement of the threads on one of my (many) spare
>> pumps.  From inside of thread to inside of thread is about 9/16" give or
> take.
>> It does not appear to be a pipe thread.
>>
>>
>> bs

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 29 06:51:04 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 05:51:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <49F84D38.2020404@comcast.net>

Those don't look like original fender spears.  Hard to tell from the photos, but 
  they seem to be less spears than badges of some sort.

Also, didn't BN2s come with the hokey reflectors on the rear deck?


Bob


Rich C wrote:
> Well, it's a lovely and known car with provenance. Other than the rather 
> poorly done seats and armrest (should also not have white piping) it's a 
> fine car.
> I'd like to be kept informed for the Hundred Registry records of who the 
> new owner may be.
> 
> Rich Chrysler
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Costanzo" 
> <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:45 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
> 
> 
>> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>>
>> Jerry
>> BJ8



-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Apr 29 07:01:13 2009
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 09:01:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <50D8AD93-3F6F-436F-B71E-519D18FC8A31@gmail.com>

Hi Rich, I'm confused on the seat/armrest piping issue on the BN1 &  
Bn2's. According to Roger & Gary's book, the Florida Green over white  
cars should have white piping.

But I've been hearing more & more lately that many cars did not come  
with a contrasting piping. Some Reno red over black cars with black  
interior are listed with red piping but now I've hear that it should  
be black.

Is there a rule of thumb here? or a case by case?

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

On Apr 29, 2009, at 8:36 AM, Rich C wrote:

> Well, it's a lovely and known car with provenance. Other than the  
> rather poorly done seats and armrest (should also not have white  
> piping) it's a fine car.
> I'd like to be kept informed for the Hundred Registry records of who  
> the new owner may be.
>
> Rich Chrysler

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Apr 29 07:14:30 2009
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 09:14:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
Message-ID: <bda.44fecde9.3729acb6@aol.com>

In a message dated 4/29/2009 9:01:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Healey100M at gmail.com writes:

Some  Reno red over black cars with black  
interior are listed with red  piping but now I've hear that it should  
be  black.




My Reno red car--BN1#222333, built 12/54 came to me with the original  
interior--black leather with contrasting red piping some of which is  still on 
board around door openings.  It looks more like Persimmon than Red  but may 
have faded over the years.
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the 
web. Get the Radio Toolbar! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 29 07:16:50 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 06:16:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
Message-ID: <908478.93515.qm@web90506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter,
I think I had the same problem several years ago from what you describe. I
replaced the U-Joints and it went away.
Patrick
 
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration


My BJ7 makes a metallic-sounding rattling noise, coming more or less from
the right rear of the car when I accelerate hard pulling away from a stop
sign.  It sounds almost like I am dragging part of my exhaust system or some
piece of sheet metal is hitting a rotating part.  If I accelerate gently I
don't get the noise.  It happens mostly in first gear but occasionally in
second as well.  The car runs smoothly at parkway speeds.

I have checked:

- The drive shaft does not seem to be hitting anything.
- The exhaust system is mounted solidly and does not appear to be hitting
anything.
- I insulated the rod which links the right side hand brake lever with the
one on the left wheel where it passes through a loop on the back of the
differential.
- I insulated the brake cable casing where it contacts the spring on the
right side of the car.
- I pulled the right rear brake drum and found no loose parts.
- The rear wheels do not seem to be contacting the body of the car.

One more clue is that this noise started happening right after a made
several hard (like stand on the brakes) stops while testing my brakes last
fall.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Apr 29 07:41:24 2009
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 06:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Withworth
Message-ID: <751d05480904290641p38086d8br791d375ff7b632ee@mail.gmail.com>

Craig and All

By definition, the four Whitworth Thread Forms are:

BSW (British Standard Whitworth)
BSF (British Standard Fine)
BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)
BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered)

Therefore, both pipe threads are in fact Whitworth since the criteria is
that they have a 55 degree angle on the threads versus a 60 degree angle of
other thread forms, e.g. UNF, UNC, SAE Fine and Coarse, BA, BSC, etc.

Other non Whitworth British threads include, BA (British Association) and
BSC (British Standard Cycle).

I hope this clears thing up for everyone.

Cheers,

Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Cooper S- Hide quoted text -


On Wed, Apr 29, 2009 at 2:29 AM, Craig and Sue Rice <craigsuerice at iquest.net
> wrote:
Bob,

Fuel fittings are British Standard Pipe (tapered thread) or British Standard
Pipe Parallel (straight thread). I don't believe any Whitworth was used in
fuel lines or components.

Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Apr 29 07:43:27 2009
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 15:43:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BF16B@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

I need the wisdom of the Healey 100 guys.
I folded my new top (hood) on my BN1 for the first time behind the seats
very carefully and when I put it up again, I have got nasty folding
marks, which do not disappear totally.
Is there any chance to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats avoiding
these really nasty marks on the top? Please give me some sort of
guidance how to fold this sh*ty top.
Thanks to all,

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Wed Apr 29 08:06:55 2009
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 07:06:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
References: <200904290618546.SM00336@wavecable.net>
Message-ID: <004b01c9c8d3$c1027c30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I had a noise like that also.  The nuts that hold on the brake are supposed 
to be half height nuts.  I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration and 
or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft. 

From geatros at shaw.ca  Wed Apr 29 09:28:59 2009
From: geatros at shaw.ca (Geatros)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 08:28:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <49F84D38.2020404@comcast.net>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
	<49F84D38.2020404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7EFCEA05C33246D5B23A57BA7E959AF9@soloPC>

Hey Bob,

Easy with the word " HOKEY "  Pal ........ The reflectors are what they are 
, if you don't like them don't look at them !!!!!!
They look just fine on my "M"................

Kenny Geatros
N. Van B.C. CA.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 09:36:51 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 11:36:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
	<49F84D38.2020404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2ACE6CFB430F4B1A95AA5F54523ACB41@ophrdc.org>

Hi Bob,

I wan't going to pick the whole car apart but, yes, you're right in spotting 
the ommission of the rear reflectors and pods just above the tail lamps on 
the rear shroud. I think the fender spears are likely okay but the steep 
contrasting angle of the sun almost straight down along the sides of the car 
makes them look strange.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> Those don't look like original fender spears.  Hard to tell from the 
> photos, but they seem to be less spears than badges of some sort.
>
> Also, didn't BN2s come with the hokey reflectors on the rear deck?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> Rich C wrote:
>> Well, it's a lovely and known car with provenance. Other than the rather 
>> poorly done seats and armrest (should also not have white piping) it's a 
>> fine car.
>> I'd like to be kept informed for the Hundred Registry records of who the 
>> new owner may be.
>>
>> Rich Chrysler
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Costanzo" 
>> <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
>> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:45 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
>>
>>
>>> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>> BJ8
>
>
>
> -- 
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 29 09:57:03 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 15:57:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <7EFCEA05C33246D5B23A57BA7E959AF9@soloPC>
Message-ID: <2074135772.1621421241020623151.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

By hokey I mean bolt-on afterthought. IMO, they somewhat spoil the otherwise super clean lines of the 100 rearend. 

FWIW, we'll be putting them back on our M, because they're supposed to be there. 


bs 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca> 
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:28:59 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M 

Hey Bob, 

Easy with the word " HOKEY " Pal ........ The reflectors are what they are 
, if you don't like them don't look at them !!!!!! 
They look just fine on my "M"................ 

Kenny Geatros 
N. Van B.C. CA. 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 09:59:21 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 11:59:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<573AC995B0324D97BC33DCE4EB97F3BA@ophrdc.org>
	<50D8AD93-3F6F-436F-B71E-519D18FC8A31@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8DBF364C667E445C8715819928136FBA@ophrdc.org>

Hi Randy,

Don't get me started with this, likely my favorite subject, or I'll be 
sitting here typing for the rest of the day!<grin>

I won't say that white piping didn't appear with this colour combination but 
certainly not when this car was built, March 3rd, 1956. There was a change 
of exterior and interior colour availability and policy that took place at 
the end of 1955.
Spruce Green, trimmed in dark green with non contrasting piping was dropped 
and the only green now was the newly introduced Florida Green and they 
simply trimmed the interior in all black. Of course at least one 
introductory show car (TAC 620 as seen bottom of page 96 in Bll Piggott's 
book Austin heaey 100 in Detail) was prepared with a light green interior to 
match Florida Green, but that was NOT a production practice.
Florida green carried on into the new 100/Six and when first introduced in 
the fall of '56 they were at first trimmed in black with contrasting piping. 
This was soon dropped in favour of a new interior colour "grey" more of a 
buff parchment colour.

The Hundred trimming was most often non contrasting piping, but of course 
the usual red cars with black interiors (prior to end of '55) had a very 
orangey red piping on seats and arm rest.
Healey Blue Hundreds to end of '55 were usually contrasting light grey 
piping, after that, non contrasting Teal Blue
Red interior cars had very orangey red seats and armrests, nocontrasting 
piping, after end of '55 the red became a very blood red still non 
contrasting piping.
Lots of exceptions just to confuse. There 's lots more. Any individual 
questions, please email me.
Somebody should write a book.....

Rich Chrysler
AHCA Hundred Registrar

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> Hi Rich, I'm confused on the seat/armrest piping issue on the BN1 & 
> Bn2's. According to Roger & Gary's book, the Florida Green over white 
> cars should have white piping.
>
> But I've been hearing more & more lately that many cars did not come  with 
> a contrasting piping. Some Reno red over black cars with black  interior 
> are listed with red piping but now I've hear that it should  be black.
>
> Is there a rule of thumb here? or a case by case?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
> On Apr 29, 2009, at 8:36 AM, Rich C wrote:
>
>> Well, it's a lovely and known car with provenance. Other than the  rather 
>> poorly done seats and armrest (should also not have white  piping) it's a 
>> fine car.
>> I'd like to be kept informed for the Hundred Registry records of who  the 
>> new owner may be.
>>
>> Rich Chrysler

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Apr 29 10:06:43 2009
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 11:06:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D5BDE6C35CE346C386D6EDAC0E7B7CF7@DANSTROM>

I boiled water and tested mine just as I took it off the stove and it showed
212 F. right on the button.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 7:59 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy

In a recent post,  Dave Porter wrote: "The old temp gauges are horribly
inaccurate".

I am not sure what Dave means by "old" (just 4 bangers or all Healeys?), and
I
only have experience with one, but when I had my gauge and sending unit out
I
tested it out of curiosity using a laboratory thermometer (highly accurate)
and a pot of water I brought to boiling on the cooktop.

When the gauge read 160 degrees, the temp was actually 159.8, and when it
indicated 190 degrees it was actually 189.

I was impressed!

I am not disputing that in general they may be inaccurate, but mine is great
-
anyone else got any hard data?

cheers,

Mirek
1969 BT7 (and I am sticking to it until my Heritage Certificate is replaced)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rkorn at simnet.is  Wed Apr 29 10:09:50 2009
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:09:50 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <1B26776E142A40D6AA92568AD0C5E4E8@velad>

Interesting that the car is 105 body numbers before mine but came out of the 
factory a few weeks later.Were the body numbers that random or did it take a 
long time to convert a car to M spec?

Richard
BN2 with those hokey pods :^)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 3:45 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>
> Jerry
> BJ8
> in progress
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ctd/1142945488.html
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 10:06:38 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 12:06:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <2074135772.1621421241020623151.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <97F8AC1E22054A33A07BEBB6B2165CE2@ophrdc.org>

Atta boy Bob.

Blame U.K. laws for that one. The bolt on afterthoughts were required 
because of a law taking effect 1st October 1954 in the U.K. requiring a pair 
of refectors to be visible on all new vehicles. So they quickly went to a 
pattern maker and had the patterns made and the pods cast. The first few 
were cast in bronze, then they quickly went to aluminum. Lucas supplied the 
reflector assemblies. Rubber left and right gaskets were made, two screws 
each mounted them, and production carried on to the letter of the law.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> By hokey I mean bolt-on afterthought. IMO, they somewhat spoil the 
> otherwise super clean lines of the 100 rearend.
>
> FWIW, we'll be putting them back on our M, because they're supposed to be 
> there.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:28:59 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
>
> Hey Bob,
>
> Easy with the word " HOKEY " Pal ........ The reflectors are what they are
> , if you don't like them don't look at them !!!!!!
> They look just fine on my "M"................
>
> Kenny Geatros
> N. Van B.C. CA.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Apr 29 10:15:33 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 12:15:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<1B26776E142A40D6AA92568AD0C5E4E8@velad>
Message-ID: <B9B3C6F93E2745ADA03DBF356041AFB8@ophrdc.org>

Richard, et al,

There were lots of out of sequence things that happened on that line. The M 
spec was likely much of it, but I have many M cars listed on the Hundred 
Registry that only lag by a few days.
Most sequential numbers are within 3 weeks or so of each other but that can 
also be said for the non M spec cars.

Rich Chrysler
AHCA Hundred Registrar

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Korn" <rkorn at simnet.is>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M


> Interesting that the car is 105 body numbers before mine but came out of 
> the factory a few weeks later.Were the body numbers that random or did it 
> take a long time to convert a car to M spec?
>
> Richard
> BN2 with those hokey pods :^)
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 3:45 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
>
>
>> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>>
>> Jerry
>> BJ8
>> in progress
>>
>> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ctd/1142945488.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Apr 29 10:32:31 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 12:32:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge accuracy
In-Reply-To: <D5BDE6C35CE346C386D6EDAC0E7B7CF7@DANSTROM>
References: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
	<D5BDE6C35CE346C386D6EDAC0E7B7CF7@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <001701c9c8e8$17e4faa0$47aeefe0$@rr.com>

I tested mine the same way, and found it reading close to 230 with the
sensor in the boiling water.  That explained much of the "overheating
problems" I had experienced up to that point.  
I pulled off the needle and repositioned it to fall exactly between the two
little white dots at 212 while the sensor was still bubbling in the water,
and the gauge now generally runs at 190 in the summer.  Even coming across
the desert last summer to/from Conclave, the temp didn't go over 212 after
hours of cruising in 115 deg. ambient.

By the way, Alan:  changing to a "cooler" thermostat (say, from a 180 to a
160) has nothing to do with making the engine run cooler.  The thermostat
rating is not the temperature to which the thermostat will limit engine
coolant, but merely the temperature at which the thermostat starts to open.
On a truly hot-running engine, the 160 will be wide open before a 180, and
at that point has NO ability to control engine temp.  On the other hand, a
160 can cause the engine to warm up slower in winter, and possibly to run
too cold.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 12:07 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy

I boiled water and tested mine just as I took it off the stove and it showed
212 F. right on the button.
Dan

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 29 14:45:07 2009
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 13:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge accuracy
Message-ID: <11394.44360.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Steve ... If the engine gets too hot and the needle moves into the oil gauge
area 230+  the Boudon tube inside the gauge will become stretched giving you
an incorrect reading from then on , more information is avaikable in my tech
article  in Healey Marque July 2003  and on page 226 in my Tech Talk book ...
When a gauge is rebuilt the sending unit is placed in hot oil at a regulated
temp. and set to that temo.   ... Norman Nock 

TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey
clubs for over 25 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them
together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
        265 pages     Updated
Annually

Both our catalogs are on line and can be down loaded 
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com

209 948 8767

Tech Talk
SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE 
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way 
Stockton CA 95205
--- On Wed, 4/29/09, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp gauge accuracy
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 9:32 AM

I tested mine the same way, and found it reading close to 230 with the
sensor in the boiling water.  That explained much of the "overheating
problems" I had experienced up to that point. 
I pulled off the needle and repositioned it to fall exactly between the two
little white dots at 212 while the sensor was still bubbling in the water,
and the gauge now generally runs at 190 in the summer.  Even coming across
the desert last summer to/from Conclave, the temp didn't go over 212 after
hours of cruising in 115 deg. ambient.

By the way, Alan:  changing to a "cooler" thermostat (say, from a 180 to a
160) has nothing to do with making the engine run cooler.  The thermostat
rating is not the temperature to which the thermostat will limit engine
coolant, but merely the temperature at which the thermostat starts to open.
On a truly hot-running engine, the 160 will be wide open before a 180, and
at that point has NO ability to control engine temp.  On the other hand, a
160 can cause the engine to warm up slower in winter, and possibly to run
too cold.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dan Stromquist
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 12:07 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy

I boiled water and tested mine just as I took it off the stove and it showed
212 F. right on the button.
Dan
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 29 15:32:41 2009
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:32:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [mg-tabc] Hope For Crane Cams
Message-ID: <274408.90006.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This in from the MG-TABC List.  Good news.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 BN7 & 62 BT7
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Wed, 4/29/09, John <mgtb0398 at yahoo.com> wrote:



From: John <mgtb0398 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [mg-tabc] Hope For Crane Cams
To: mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 5:05 PM
Apparently there is hope for Crane Cams after all. That would be nice.
http://www.streetle galtv.com/ forum/scorpion- racing-products- buys-crane-
cams-2354. html
CHEERS,  John             TB0398          Ohio USA
__________________________________________________________________
Be smarter
than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the
All-new Yahoo! Mail.  Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or
register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Wed Apr 29 18:47:22 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:47:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <004b01c9c8d3$c1027c30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net>

I have had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked out.

-  Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring leaves were
broken.  I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that made no
difference.

-  Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok. 

-  Rear shocks - They are tight.

-  Drive shaft contacting the hand brake cable - It was not.

-  Drive shaft contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It was
not.  There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to
indicate that it had been hitting anything.

-  Splines on the wheel and hub extension - These are OK.

-  U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft.
What should I be looking for here?

-  Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and they don't make any
noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand.  Is there any other way to check
them without taking them apart?

Any other suggestions?

- Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
> 
> I had a noise like that also.  The nuts that hold on the brake are
> supposed
> to be half height nuts.  I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration
> and
> or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Apr 29 18:54:33 2009
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 18:54:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net>
References: <004b01c9c8d3$c1027c30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1BA459E79851473CAB6EB0764B5F27CC@oscar>

Peter,
 Darn, not much else back there... Usually when someone says they hear a
rattle (under acceleration) it's most often traced or referring to a
connecting rod bearing.  Are you sure it's coming from the rear?
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

blog: http://porterbikes.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 6:47 PM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration

I have had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked out.

-  Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring leaves were
broken.  I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that made no
difference.

-  Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok. 

-  Rear shocks - They are tight.

-  Drive shaft contacting the hand brake cable - It was not.

-  Drive shaft contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It was
not.  There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to
indicate that it had been hitting anything.

-  Splines on the wheel and hub extension - These are OK.

-  U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't feel any play in the drive shaft.
What should I be looking for here?

-  Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and they don't make any
noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand.  Is there any other way to check
them without taking them apart?

Any other suggestions?

- Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
> 
> I had a noise like that also.  The nuts that hold on the brake are
> supposed
> to be half height nuts.  I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration
> and
> or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Apr 29 19:21:39 2009
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 11:21:39 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
In-Reply-To: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
References: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328C7D@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>

G'day Peter

You make no reference to using anything but 2 blokes and whatever spanner it
takes.

Norman Gunstan aside I have tried all sorts of gizmos to bleed brakes, but
always come back to a simple piece of clear plastic tubing and a glass jar.
The tubing comes from your local hardware store and a clean Vegemite or jam
jar works perfectly.

Simply fit one end of the tubing over the bleed nipple making sure it's a snug
fit and the other end sits in the jar. You can pour some brake fluid into the
jar if you wish or leave it dry.

Then with someone sitting in the driver's seat, (Normally a bloke, as for some
reason women have trouble with the in and out action) and the other person
would be lying on the floor next to the wheel in question with a ring spanner
placed on the bleed nipple.

The bloke in the driver's seat pumps the brakes about a half dozen times (or
until some resistance is felt) and holds his foot down on the pedal. Then the
spanner operator undoes the bleed nipple and the fluid will pass through the
tube into the jar. While the pedal pusher keeps his foot down the spanner
operator closes the nipple.

This is repeated until all air in the form of bubbles has passed through the
tube.

I normally start with the wheel furthest away from the brake master cylinder
ie the passenger side rear. Then work towards the closest. If you have the
wheel cylinders with ball bearing stoppers you will have to ensure that these
a free moving.

The purpose of the jar is that once the tube is full of fluid it prevents
re-entry of air. Has worked for me every time.

My wife and I will probably be in Brisbane for the Cootha Classic at the end
of May. You going? (http://www.coothaclassic.com.au/)

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 29 19:36:43 2009
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 01:36:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net>
References: <004b01c9c8d3$c1027c30$0500a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<20090430004721.1535A187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <SNT103-W794F37BF5E337E0C678D5DD56C0@phx.gbl>

Peter



Whats the gearbox tie rod like?, dont tighten it too much thou or you will
damage the back of the od.



Andy


_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Hotmail  see what else you can do with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/134665375/direct/01/

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Wed Apr 29 20:15:47 2009
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 22:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
In-Reply-To: <SNT103-W794F37BF5E337E0C678D5DD56C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090430021546.6251918766A@autox.team.net>

I adjusted it so that the fan clears the radiator and tightened it enough so
that the two rubber bushes are slightly compressed.

 

- Peter Schauss

 

  _____  

From: andy pole [mailto:ampole at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 9:37 PM
To: schauss at worldnet.att.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration

 

Peter
 
Whats the gearbox tie rod like?, dont tighten it too much thou or you will
damage the back of the od.
 
Andy



  _____  

Get the New Internet Explore 8 Optimised for MSN. Download Now
<http://extras.uk.msn.com/internet-explorer-8/?ocid=T010MSN07A0716U> 

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 29 21:24:09 2009
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:24:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
Message-ID: <860086.9647.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Nice simple instruction mate - good on ya....need to think about the in n out
thing.....

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Wed, 4/29/09, Quinn, Patrick <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote:

> From: Quinn, Patrick <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
> To: "'Peter Linn'" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 6:21 PM
> G'day Peter
>
> You make no reference to using anything but 2 blokes and
> whatever spanner it
> takes.
>
> Norman Gunstan aside I have tried all sorts of gizmos to
> bleed brakes, but
> always come back to a simple piece of clear plastic tubing
> and a glass jar.
> The tubing comes from your local hardware store and a clean
> Vegemite or jam
> jar works perfectly.
>
> Simply fit one end of the tubing over the bleed nipple
> making sure it's a snug
> fit and the other end sits in the jar. You can pour some
> brake fluid into the
> jar if you wish or leave it dry.
>
> Then with someone sitting in the driver's seat, (Normally a
> bloke, as for some
> reason women have trouble with the in and out action) and
> the other person
> would be lying on the floor next to the wheel in question
> with a ring spanner
> placed on the bleed nipple.
>
> The bloke in the driver's seat pumps the brakes about a
> half dozen times (or
> until some resistance is felt) and holds his foot down on
> the pedal. Then the
> spanner operator undoes the bleed nipple and the fluid will
> pass through the
> tube into the jar. While the pedal pusher keeps his foot
> down the spanner
> operator closes the nipple.
>
> This is repeated until all air in the form of bubbles has
> passed through the
> tube.
>
> I normally start with the wheel furthest away from the
> brake master cylinder
> ie the passenger side rear. Then work towards the closest.
> If you have the
> wheel cylinders with ball bearing stoppers you will have to
> ensure that these
> a free moving.
>
> The purpose of the jar is that once the tube is full of
> fluid it prevents
> re-entry of air. Has worked for me every time.
>
> My wife and I will probably be in Brisbane for the Cootha
> Classic at the end
> of May. You going? (http://www.coothaclassic.com.au/)
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may
> contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both.
> If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify
> the sender.
> **********************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Apr 29 22:10:25 2009
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 23:10:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <FF897D80F6EC4C8CB2DF5BCF7DE41702@GregPC>

Does anyone else find it odd that the car was built in '56 and is registered 
as a '55?, quite often it went the other way when cars were not sold until 
long after they were built and so the registration is show a later year than 
the model or build year.  Not saying the car isn't legit, a lot can happen 
in 50 years, but would take a look at that issue and try to get the answer 
before I plunked down the big bucks.

Lastly, the Healey as a salad bar thing is noted in the ad, I know we talked 
about the one in Omaha, pretty sure that was a 6 cylinder car, but this one 
is listed as having been in salad bar service too, perhaps in the 70s and 
80s when it suddenly became fashionable for nearly all eateries to have 
salad bars there was such a shortage of suitable hardware to build them the 
derelict Healeys were put to use for tthat purpose throughout the country.

Greg Lemon

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr 29 22:43:08 2009
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 21:43:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <FF897D80F6EC4C8CB2DF5BCF7DE41702@GregPC>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
	<FF897D80F6EC4C8CB2DF5BCF7DE41702@GregPC>
Message-ID: <49F92C5C.8070103@comcast.net>

Ahhhhh ... the legendary "salad bar find."

Maybe, somewhere, there's a salad bar in a barn with a 100S hidden inside?



Time for bed.



bs



Greg Lemon wrote:
> Does anyone else find it odd that the car was built in '56 and is 
> registered as a '55?, quite often it went the other way when cars were 
> not sold until long after they were built and so the registration is 
> show a later year than the model or build year.  Not saying the car 
> isn't legit, a lot can happen in 50 years, but would take a look at that 
> issue and try to get the answer before I plunked down the big bucks.
> 
> Lastly, the Healey as a salad bar thing is noted in the ad, I know we 
> talked about the one in Omaha, pretty sure that was a 6 cylinder car, 
> but this one is listed as having been in salad bar service too, perhaps 
> in the 70s and 80s when it suddenly became fashionable for nearly all 
> eateries to have salad bars there was such a shortage of suitable 
> hardware to build them the derelict Healeys were put to use for tthat 
> purpose throughout the country.
> 
> Greg Lemon

> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

*******************************************************************

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr 29 23:53:44 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 22:53:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
In-Reply-To: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emery
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Mitch,

I would think that any local brake machine shop/supplier should be 
able to reline shoes and arc them to the drum. How will the drums 
wear with the ceramic material?

John

At 03:57 AM 4/27/2009 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
>Hello list,
>
>
>
>Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the new
>ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>
>MitchB
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 30 00:04:52 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 23:04:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steel Fuel line (pipe) replacement suggestion
In-Reply-To: <326010656.1756101240968254619.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westch
	ester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <326010656.1756101240968254619.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090429230004.0206aa60@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Hi Tom,

This may work for a fuel line but it would be a very bad idea for a brake line.

I am not a metallurgist but copper will work harden (from vibrations 
and working it by hand or tools) and become brittle after time to a 
point where it will fail. Take a piece of tubing and flex it 
repeatedly and it will become very stiff.

John

At 01:24 AM 4/29/2009 +0000, tomleavy at comcast.net wrote:
>Hi Listers-
>
>....I decided to zinc plate copper pipe (the soft, bendable type)....
>
>Regards, Tom

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Apr 30 01:26:48 2009
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 00:26:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats
In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BF16B@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
References: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BF16B@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <49F952B8.6030008@pacbell.net>

Hi Josef and Listers,

While I may not be able to tell you how to correctly fold that crappy 
top (I have one, too!), I may be able to save you from permanently 
creasing and marking the hood by constantly leaving it folded in the 
car.  Please forgive the following commercial or hit Delete now if offended!

Living in Southern California, many of us never carry the top in the 
car, leaving them safely stowed at home.  Removing it is easy for the 
early 6-cylinder folks but us 100 owners are out of luck with the hood 
attached to the bows and the bows attached to the car!  It's really not 
worth the trouble to unbolt it, leaving ugly holes, and then reattach it 
when needed.  So......

(Concours people please turn your heads.)  We're in the last stages of 
producing a pair of brackets that will attach in the original holes for 
the plate holding the bows.  The bows then simply slide in or out of the 
brackets in 2 minutes.  An added bonus is when pushing the seat all the 
way back, it does not strike the front bow damaging both the seat back 
and the tonneau in between.  You'll also benefit from an additional inch 
or two of leg room.

That brackets are milled from .50" 7075 T6 aluminum stock and look great 
as finished.  One prototype tester painted them gray, matching the bows, 
and looking "original" to a non-Healey admirer.
They are Patent Pending and should be ready for shipping in 6 months or 
less.  The final price has not yet been determined but will be very 
reasonable.  Thank you for bearing with me and any interested 100 
owners, please contact me off-List.

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1M

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
> I need the wisdom of the Healey 100 guys.
> I folded my new top (hood) on my BN1 for the first time behind the seats
> very carefully and when I put it up again, I have got nasty folding
> marks, which do not disappear totally.
> Is there any chance to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats avoiding
> these really nasty marks on the top? Please give me some sort of
> guidance how to fold this sh*ty top.
> Thanks to all,
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Thu Apr 30 01:30:29 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 00:30:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.com>

Local brake shops do NOT re-line shoes and they have not arced shoes since
asbestos caused the machines to be illegal for use.  IF you find a shop that
does either of these things, PLEASE let us know.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Wed, Apr 29, 2009 at 10:53 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Mitch,
>
> I would think that any local brake machine shop/supplier should be able to
> reline shoes and arc them to the drum. How will the drums wear with the
> ceramic material?
>
> John
>
> At 03:57 AM 4/27/2009 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Hello list,
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the new
>> ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>>
>> MitchB
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From eorr at cogeco.ca  Thu Apr 30 06:39:14 2009
From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 08:39:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DFEA49303048422CB3CFFE3AA1E9EA5D@HP29887285263>

Bartlett Provincial Brake Inc Hamilton ON will reline your shoes and pads 
and will arc the shoes to proper fit if you provide them with a drum , had 
this done twice in the past ten years , they have all types of friction 
material including several grades of the green stuff and the cost was 
reasonable . The companies primary business is relining industrial ie steel 
mill cranes and large construction equipment brake linings .

Ed Orr
'65 BJ8
'66 BJ8 project


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "." <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 3:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings


> Local brake shops do NOT re-line shoes and they have not arced shoes since
> asbestos caused the machines to be illegal for use.  IF you find a shop 
> that
> does either of these things, PLEASE let us know.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
> On Wed, Apr 29, 2009 at 10:53 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> Mitch,
>>
>> I would think that any local brake machine shop/supplier should be able 
>> to
>> reline shoes and arc them to the drum. How will the drums wear with the
>> ceramic material?
>>
>> John
>>
>> At 03:57 AM 4/27/2009 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>>> Hello list,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the 
>>> new
>>> ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>>>
>>> MitchB
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eorr at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 


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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 30 07:04:56 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 09:04:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2E508B7915EF4636813CBF05DC2EB2B2@ophrdc.org>

Mike,

I've used the same shop for over 30 years and continue to do so, but they're 
here in Hamlton Ontario, Cananda. I'd be glad to be the middle man again if 
need be.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "." <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 3:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings


> Local brake shops do NOT re-line shoes and they have not arced shoes since
> asbestos caused the machines to be illegal for use.  IF you find a shop 
> that
> does either of these things, PLEASE let us know.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
> On Wed, Apr 29, 2009 at 10:53 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> Mitch,
>>
>> I would think that any local brake machine shop/supplier should be able 
>> to
>> reline shoes and arc them to the drum. How will the drums wear with the
>> ceramic material?
>>
>> John
>>
>> At 03:57 AM 4/27/2009 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>>> Hello list,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the 
>>> new
>>> ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>>>
>>> MitchB
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Apr 30 08:21:20 2009
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 10:21:20 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
Message-ID: <ca1.553700f7.372b0de0@aol.com>

Loose junk in the trunk (boot)?
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 4/29/2009 7:49:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
schauss at worldnet.att.net writes:

I have  had a number of good suggestions, most of which I have checked  out.

-  Broken spring or loose spring clip - None of my spring  leaves were
broken.  I did find a loose clip and tightened it but that  made no
difference.

-  Rear spring U-bolts - They are ok.  

-  Rear shocks - They are tight.

-  Drive shaft  contacting the hand brake cable - It was not.

-  Drive shaft  contacting the nuts which hold the hand brake lever - It was
not.   There were no obvious shiny spots on the on the drive shaft to
indicate  that it had been hitting anything.

-  Splines on the wheel and hub  extension - These are OK.

-  U-joints on the driveshaft - I don't  feel any play in the drive shaft.
What should I be looking for  here?

-  Rear wheel bearings - I don't feel any play there and  they don't make 
any
noise when I spin the rear wheels by hand.  Is  there any other way to check
them without taking them apart?

Any  other suggestions?

- Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

>  -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:healeys-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry  Costanzo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:07 AM
> To:  healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard  acceleration
> 
> I had a noise like that also.  The nuts  that hold on the brake are
> supposed
> to be half height  nuts.  I had on a full nut and on heavy accelleration
> and
>  or right turns, it rubbed on the drive shaft.
>  _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are  subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
>  http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 30 08:31:18 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 07:31:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: EyesOn Design Car Show
Message-ID: <513805.41958.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers,


I am trying to locate 10-12 cars for a British Sports Car section at the
EyesOn Design Car Show being held June 21 in Grosse Pointe
Shores, Michigan. I would like to have a good cross section of cars,
from all of the manufacturers. Our only requirement is that the cars are
to have been built prior to around 1970.

If you are interested in showing your car, please let me know off list.

More information at http://eyesondesigncarshow.com.

Cheers,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Apr 30 08:58:16 2009
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 06:58:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys]
	=?iso-8859-1?q?Little_Aussie_bleeder!_=285th_time_lucky?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?=29?=
Message-ID: <20090430145817.5862.qmail@hoster902.com>

> Patrick Quinn Wrote:

>
> I normally start with the wheel furthest away from the
> brake master cylinder
> ie the passenger side rear. 

On LHD cars, this would be the driver's side.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA USA
BN6, LHD

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Thu Apr 30 09:35:41 2009
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer @dslextreme.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 08:35:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
In-Reply-To: <2E508B7915EF4636813CBF05DC2EB2B2@ophrdc.org>
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.com>
	<2E508B7915EF4636813CBF05DC2EB2B2@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <d49b03130904300835r2bc9d78ep55bd09341465b849@mail.gmail.com>

Rich,
     Thank you for the offer.  I may just take you up on this.
Mike

On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 6:04 AM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I've used the same shop for over 30 years and continue to do so, but
> they're here in Hamlton Ontario, Cananda. I'd be glad to be the middle man
> again if need be.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" <
> rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
> To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "." <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 3:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
>
>
>  Local brake shops do NOT re-line shoes and they have not arced shoes since
>> asbestos caused the machines to be illegal for use.  IF you find a shop
>> that
>> does either of these things, PLEASE let us know.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 AN5
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2009 at 10:53 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Mitch,
>>>
>>> I would think that any local brake machine shop/supplier should be able
>>> to
>>> reline shoes and arc them to the drum. How will the drums wear with the
>>> ceramic material?
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> At 03:57 AM 4/27/2009 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hello list,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Anyone knowB of a company that will reline Healey brake shoes with the
>>>> new
>>>> ceramic material? has anyone tried this yet?B B
>>>>
>>>> MitchB
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>  _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From Hartangus at aol.com  Thu Apr 30 09:35:56 2009
From: Hartangus at aol.com (Hartangus at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 11:35:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] rattling noise on hard acceleration
Message-ID: <bc3.469c8ad4.372b1f5c@aol.com>

Hi Peter,
            I have  had universal joints give exactly the symptoms you 
describe.To test,disconnect  prop shaft to make sure they are not seized and 
look for tell tale red rust dust  in uj.
                                                                            
 Regards
                                                                            
           Barrie from England

From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Apr 30 10:08:56 2009
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 12:08:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
In-Reply-To: <20090430145817.5862.qmail@hoster902.com>
References: <20090430145817.5862.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <006501c9c9ad$f71a7040$e54f50c0$@net>

Yes in in order, for a LHD car, Left rear, Right rear, Left front, Right
front That takes all four from the farthest distance to the shortest
distance.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)

> Patrick Quinn Wrote:

>
> I normally start with the wheel furthest away from the
> brake master cylinder
> ie the passenger side rear.

On LHD cars, this would be the driver's side.

--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA USA
BN6, LHD
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ahbn6 at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From RAWDAWGS at aol.com  Thu Apr 30 12:38:27 2009
From: RAWDAWGS at aol.com (RAWDAWGS at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 14:38:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Main Bearing
Message-ID: <c0b.58047453.372b4a23@aol.com>

I am rebuilding my 100-6 BN4 and am having trouble finding 10 over main  
bearings. I can get stds and 20s. Everybody says they are 4 weeks out. I don't 
 want to wait that long. Anybody got some stashed away? Pay you back in a 
month!  Scott
 
 
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From autofarm at cyg.net  Thu Apr 30 13:05:53 2009
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 15:05:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Main Bearing
References: <c0b.58047453.372b4a23@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B7D774886837408B8A39FBD063DE1C3F@OFFICE>

    We have stock..
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RAWDAWGS at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 2:38 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Main Bearing


>I am rebuilding my 100-6 BN4 and am having trouble finding 10 over main
> bearings. I can get stds and 20s. Everybody says they are 4 weeks out. I 
> don't
> want to wait that long. Anybody got some stashed away? Pay you back in a
> month!  Scott
>
>
> **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
> web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
> (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as autofarm at cyg.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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06:01:00

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 30 13:20:57 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 15:20:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
References: <20090430145817.5862.qmail@hoster902.com>
Message-ID: <F9DABDF712A84335B257E72A5E5E7386@ophrdc.org>

What counts is measured from the 4 way junction which in all cases of the 
Austin healey is to the front right side of the engine bay. It doesn't 
matter where the master cylinder is. Therefore left rear is always first 
being furthest away from the junction, and right front is always last.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys]Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)


>> Patrick Quinn Wrote:
>
>>
>> I normally start with the wheel furthest away from the
>> brake master cylinder
>> ie the passenger side rear.
>
> On LHD cars, this would be the driver's side.
>
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena, CA USA
> BN6, LHD
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 30 14:24:53 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:24:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes on my BJ8
In-Reply-To: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <884315.34546.qm@web83104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49FA0915.8080200@chello.nl>

Strip, clean and rebuild te calipers. Easy job.
Kees Oudesluijs


Reynaldo Navarro schreef:
> I have just purchased a 67 BJ8, frame up restoration and my problem is when I apply the brakes it take a couple seconds for the front disc brakes to release, the rear release as soon as the brakes are is off, any suggestions ? any help will be appreciated
> Rey navarro
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 30 14:53:11 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:53:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
In-Reply-To: <4e23c7250904280841m11395883k7e0be5891f0f2341@mail.gmail.com>
References: <-6948244521589840727@unknownmsgid>
	<4e23c7250904280841m11395883k7e0be5891f0f2341@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49FA0FB7.3000403@chello.nl>

Simon,
Using an Easybleed or similar system to bleed the brakes under pressure 
on the reservoir should solve the problem and you do not need to bother 
the Missus.
Kees Oudesluijs

From eyera3 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 30 14:54:20 2009
From: eyera3 at comcast.net (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 13:54:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud
Message-ID: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com>

I got an official looking email from Paypal telling me that their was
unauthorized attempts to log into my account form an unknown computer. it
tells me to log in using their shortcut to confirm my password.
I sent it to paypal and they confirmed it was a spoof phising email. Forward
any emails that ask for email confirmation to confirm it came from the legit
site.
I have to say it looke dgood to me, but I thought I would be careful and
sent to paypal to confirm or deny. it was fake

-- 
I Erbs
Portland, OR

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Apr 30 15:00:17 2009
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 23:00:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Temp guage accuracy
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP53FD0D878CFF45673AAD9EC36F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <49FA1161.9070701@chello.nl>

Though fragile, the SMITHS/Jaeger UK ether bulb mechanical temp. gauges 
are pretty accurate, much more than the later bimetallic or spool ones.
Kees Oudesluijs


Mirek Sharp schreef:
> In a recent post,  Dave Porter wrote: "The old temp gauges are horribly
> inaccurate".
>
> I am not sure what Dave means by "old" (just 4 bangers or all Healeys?), and I
> only have experience with one, but when I had my gauge and sending unit out I
> tested it out of curiosity using a laboratory thermometer (highly accurate)
> and a pot of water I brought to boiling on the cooktop.
>
> When the gauge read 160 degrees, the temp was actually 159.8, and when it
> indicated 190 degrees it was actually 189.
>
> I was impressed!
>
> I am not disputing that in general they may be inaccurate, but mine is great -
> anyone else got any hard data?
>
> cheers,
>
> Mirek
> 1969 BT7 (and I am sticking to it until my Heritage Certificate is replaced)

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Apr 30 15:54:16 2009
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:54:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat slider mechanism
Message-ID: <a06200700c61fcd4b3de3@[192.168.0.102]>

I'm having trouble separating the seat slider mechanism (BJ8).
I thought it was the little peaned over pin in the end of the half 
that gets bolted to the floor, but there is still something 
preventing it from sliding out.
So, what's the procedure?

Stephen, BJ8

From pyoas at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 15:56:00 2009
From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 14:56:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rattling noise on hard acceleration
Message-ID: <336142.26584.qm@web90501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had bad U-joints do the same noise and it was when I took them out and
popped off the caps did I see what appeared to be "twisted grooves". It was
particulary noticeable when I had two adults and two kids in the car. The
extra weight resulted in extra torque needed for acceleration. Don't ask me
how I determined to look at the U-joints...I can';t remember because I killed
that brain cell several years ago with beer!
Patrick
 

Subject: [Healeys] rattling noise on hard acceleration
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bc3.469c8ad4.372b1f5c at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Peter,
            I have  had universal joints give exactly the symptoms you
describe.To test,disconnect  prop shaft to make sure they are not seized and
look for tell tale red rust dust  in uj.
                                                                           
Regards
                                                                           
           Barrie from England

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Apr 30 16:53:24 2009
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 18:53:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud
In-Reply-To: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <173126440904301354m156689e8l7264bac8f50413b1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL109-W27209097227AF220683871AD6C0@phx.gbl>

Any email you might get from ANY COMPANY ETC that requests any info from you
online, is bogus, there are no, I repeat NO companies that ask for your
personal info, unless you are ordering something. Also forget about feeling
safe if you see the "yellow lock" when being asked for the info.

We get a bundle of complaints about this. I have even had email directed to my
office requesting personal info. Talk about stupid! They are addressed to
Seniors Vs. Crime Office, Project of the Florida Attorney General.

Bill

BJ7

> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 13:54:20 -0700
> From: eyera3 at comcast.net
> To: macep at macep.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] paypal fraud
>
> I got an official looking email from Paypal telling me that their was
> unauthorized attempts to log into my account form an unknown computer. it
> tells me to log in using their shortcut to confirm my password.
> I sent it to paypal and they confirmed it was a spoof phising email.
Forward
> any emails that ask for email confirmation to confirm it came from the
legit
> site.
> I have to say it looke dgood to me, but I thought I would be careful and
> sent to paypal to confirm or deny. it was fake
>
> --
> I Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as insptwo at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 30 17:30:02 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:30:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Seat slider mechanism
References: <a06200700c61fcd4b3de3@[192.168.0.102]>
Message-ID: <C9CBC904BFE345BA9B420F3C7A43FAAF@ophrdc.org>

Stephen,

You will have to remove the roll pins from both ends of the slider track to 
release the steel balls from both ends. There are little detent pressings in 
the upper female track that prevent the balls from going all the way through 
from one end to the other, so the balls need to come out both ends.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:54 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Seat slider mechanism


> I'm having trouble separating the seat slider mechanism (BJ8).
> I thought it was the little peaned over pin in the end of the half that 
> gets bolted to the floor, but there is still something preventing it from 
> sliding out.
> So, what's the procedure?
>
> Stephen, BJ8
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Apr 30 17:43:14 2009
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:43:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats
References: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750057BF16B@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <6969937847C0432EB7F85A3454F9F1B4@ophrdc.org>

Josef,

The nasty folding marks are probably caused by the material being crimped 
between the folding mechanism. This top frame can easily cause a scissor 
like action along the sides if the hood material gets between the pieces.
When the hood header rail is brought back to the main bar, and the rear rail 
comes forward, don't let the hood material fold down between too deeply, no 
more than 6" or so. Keep the rear window as straight and flat as possible. 
The left and right triangular shaped "ears" need to fold inboard as smoothly 
and flat as possible making the fold as far inboard as the edge of the 
window. For the final collapse of the hood frame, keep the window flat and 
as vertical as possible. I try to tuck the portion between the bottom of the 
window and the rear bar under so it's slightly tucked beneath the spare tire 
envelope, rather than leave it hanging toward the tunnel or floor. Once it's 
all down, there should be a further slight collapse posible to clear the 
header bar from the seat backs better if you have the slotted side pivots 
which were introduced part way through 1954.
Finally when everything is folded down the best possible, make sure the hold 
down catches don't spear or dig into the tonneau cover when fitted. They can 
be pivoted and turned down to clear hood material and tonneau cover.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 9:43 AM
Subject: [Healeys] How to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats


>I need the wisdom of the Healey 100 guys.
> I folded my new top (hood) on my BN1 for the first time behind the seats
> very carefully and when I put it up again, I have got nasty folding
> marks, which do not disappear totally.
> Is there any chance to fold a BN1/BN2 top behind the seats avoiding
> these really nasty marks on the top? Please give me some sort of
> guidance how to fold this sh*ty top.
> Thanks to all,
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Apr 30 17:48:34 2009
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 23:48:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
In-Reply-To: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <003e01c9c87c$fdde3d30$0600a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W1777B3189AF8EF70783A41A56C0@phx.gbl>

Strange things happen in SF.
Bill Lawrence

> From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:45:51 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Interesting ad on Craigs list for a 100 M
>
> Quite pricey!   Do you think they will get a buyer?
>
> Jerry
> BJ8
> in progress
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ctd/1142945488.html
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Apr 30 20:52:12 2009
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:52:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Little Aussie bleeder! (5th time lucky)
References: <FD2C1D1F794A495B9BD49B12523B77CB@PeterPC>
	<7CC8DE1FCD8B36409FF7FB3E4C85DDFA0102328C7D@SLPPEXCCR02.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP10DEB2B81CB7D535FA7D28C36D0@phx.gbl>

That is exactly how I do it Patrick and like you - it always has worked for 
me.

Mirek

 Patrick wrote:  "Norman Gunstan aside I have tried all sorts of gizmos to 
bleed brakes, but
> always come back to a simple piece of clear plastic tubing and a glass 
> jar."

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Apr 30 21:15:31 2009
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 03:15:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?brake_shoes?=
Message-ID: <20090501031531.12544.qmail@server278.com>

one of our british car club advertisers has a shop that relines all kinds of shoes, arcs them and rebuilds clutches and most any kind of friction surface.  had hiim do the shoes for the bn6 and he can do rivet or bonding.  no idea of what shipping would cost but he can do it here in las vegas.    hjim

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Apr 30 22:10:47 2009
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 21:10:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
In-Reply-To: <d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <1275838198.1414671240804664801.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20090429225123.01fe8008@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<d49b03130904300030w3d9a918auc0eb542e8fa3a540@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20090430205821.020759f8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

/jobzT9: Permission denied

From joemulqueen at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 22:26:56 2009
From: joemulqueen at yahoo.com (joe mulqueen)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 21:26:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake shoe linings
Message-ID: <59300.46180.qm@web82205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

There's a place in San Jose, CA that relines shoes.  From large to small
vehicles.  I believe you can find them on google using key words.  Not cheap
though.  Approx $100 but they will come back looking like new.  By the way, I
told them I could get new shoes for my british vehicles for under $70, but
they wouldn't budge on the price. 
Regards,
Joe Mulqueen
Santa Clara, CA
'60 BT7 project