[Healeys] Engine mount adjustments

[Earl Kagna]

Alan:

Beg to differ a bit on this, or maybe add to it:

As you say, the gearbox tie rod assembly is what keeps the engine from 
shifting forward, and the rubber should be kept in good shape.  Urethane is 
better here - it's an area that gets a lot of oil blown back on it which can 
turn rubber rubbers into soft goo quite quickly.

The correct shimming of the engine 'rebound' mounts will reduce or prevent 
the engine from 'shuddering' as the clutch is let out, particularly in 
reverse gear.  The correct clearance is also important to better control the 
engine's drop in the event that a main mount ever breaks.

I have always shimmed the rebounds according to the manual.  Of course, what 
then happens is that the new main mounts quickly settle, usually eliminating 
the clearance.  I figure that someone at the factory probably calculated 
that it would happen, so I rarely re-do the shimming.  Better that the 
mounts rest lighly on the brackets than be way to high.  Besides, it's a 
real pain to get at the shims on the carb side because of the heat shield.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine mount adjustments


Jerry -

If you hit a dip in the road hard, that adjustment can make all the
difference between you driving home or having your radiator fan blades
strike the lower v cross member, bending forward, and subsequently
ripping out the core of your radiator in a very pretty circular
pattern.  Don't ask how I know this.  The gearbox tie rod rubbers need
to be kept in good shape too!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8