[Healeys] Again with the BN6 Flasher Relay

[Alex]

John, when I do repairs like that I use a short bit of copper braid in order 
to form a flexible connection between the soldered points. You can make a 
braid from some shield from shielded microphone cable or coaxial radio 
cable, or use a length of Solder Wick, which you can get at a radio supply 
house.

 Or, tell me how much you need and I'll send you some in the mail.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john close" <f9cougar at yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 8:44 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Again with the BN6 Flasher Relay


> Sorry if y'all are getting sick of this.I got all excited about Norman 
> Nock's advice to clean the contacts and whipped that sucker on out of the 
> Healey and took off the cover. Dang if it isn't a modern kind with a 
> printed circuit board and 2 little relays. I forgot I replaced the 
> original one years ago. Putting on my specs and examining it more closely, 
> though, I saw that the little copper strip from the #5 terminal had fried 
> a little and broken it's litle old self. That explains the inop brake 
> lights. I'm a-wonderin' could I solder in a little bridge between the 
> rivets on either side of the break? Seems like that'd work.... What do you 
> think? What about the cause? All inputs totally welcome. Thank you - JRC
> &nbsp;
> PS - A little irony here. Years ago, I had an engineering job with the Air 
> Force's Space Division. Big problem on satellites back then was crazing of 
> printed circuit boards. Now I have the same problem on my 59-year-old 
> Healey.

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