From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Fri Aug  1 00:23:53 2008
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 08:23:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey or Austin?
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAAO4xkv9iMZ1JorPCRXSfNUgBAAAAAA==@aon.at>
Message-ID: <000001c8f39f$2c343df0$4600a8c0@tm4>

Well,


I think I went a bit too far... :-)

I asked them to update their databases... So, they gave me a temporary reg.
paper and said that if the request will be declined by some
higher-up-authority they will simply register it as Austin.

We shall see.

Anyone from UK on the list? How are the AH registered by Her Majesties
authority??...

Cheers, Tadek

-----Original Message-----
From: Reinhart Rosner (aon) [mailto:aon.912808691 at aon.at]
Sent: 1 sierpnia 2008 07:23
To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Healeys] Austin Healey or Austin?

Tadek,

My 100 came directly after production to a local dealer in Austria and in
the old papers it says about the company: Austin, England. And for the type
they wrote Austin Healey 100.

When I bought the car in 1999 I tried to change this, but at the
registration they said: We do not have Austin Healey in our computer, lets
leave it an Austin.

Kind regards

Reinhart


Reinhart Rosner
1955 AH 100 BN1
Vienna  Austria



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+aon.912808691=aon.at at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+aon.912808691=aon.at at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von
Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 31. Juli 2008 11:51
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] Austin Healey or Austin?

I have a small question - what/who is officially the "make" of the car:
Austin Healey or Austin?

Was there a company called Austin-Healey?..

The reason I am asking is I am trying to register the car at DMV in Poland -
they are reluctant to accept the make of the car as "Austin-Healey". Rather,
they say it's an Austin, but the type is Healey..
I thought at first they must be wrong, but then I looked at the VIN plate,
and it says Austin..


Any thoughts?

How are your cars registered?

The Florida Title I have has:
Make: AUHE
Model: /empty/

Thanks for all help,

Tadek
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as aon.912808691 at aon.at

http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Aug  1 01:31:30 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 15:31:30 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
In-Reply-To: <1217569613.4892a34d5b1de@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
References: <1217569613.4892a34d5b1de@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808010031v480dcce1ic2420c9db1de7a33@mail.gmail.com>

Joe -

That's because almost all the racing cars for AH were build at DHMC in
Warwick, they weren't built at the Austin/BMC factory at Longbridge/Abingdon
where most of our factory cars were built.  DHMC also had the exclusive
rights to all racing for AH, and received a budget from Austin specifically
for racing the AH.  The racing cars are a different breed.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 1:46 PM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> The following information may not interest all on the list. I think the
> name
> depends who you are dealing with. The F.I.A ( Federation of International
> Motorsport ) controlled and managed the sports car championship in
> 1965.This
> championship was officially called - 'THE MANUFACTURER'S CHAMPIONSHIP' and
> was
> a promotion opportunity for manufacturers to show the value of their
> products.
> Events were held at Sebring, LeMans, Targa Florio and a fifth race I can't
> remember. In our case the Make entered was Austin Healey. Most
> interestingly
> the entrant was Donald Healey Motor Company. The Healeys entered in this
> championship were fitted with chassis plates that  identified the 3000
> as 'HEALEY GT and manufacturer, Donald Healey Motor Company.The
> LeMans/Sebring
> Sprites of that time had similar chassis plates. YOUR CHOICE, but I would
> not
> argue with your government or you could end up as an unidentifiable kit car
> Joe
> __

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Aug  1 06:48:04 2008
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 22:48:04 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808010031v480dcce1ic2420c9db1de7a33@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1217569613.4892a34d5b1de@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
	<ff59076c0808010031v480dcce1ic2420c9db1de7a33@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D492F32FB7D642BD95AF66EC44127BB6@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day Alan

Perhaps I should disclose that Joe has two of those DHMC built racing
Austin-Healeys. He would be hesitant is saying this.

The 1965 Sebring 3000 and the Sprite that ran at Sebring and Le Mans in '67
and '68.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Friday, 1 August 2008 5:32 PM
To: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey

Joe -

That's because almost all the racing cars for AH were build at DHMC in
Warwick, they weren't built at the Austin/BMC factory at Longbridge/Abingdon
where most of our factory cars were built.  DHMC also had the exclusive
rights to all racing for AH, and received a budget from Austin specifically
for racing the AH.  The racing cars are a different breed.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 1:46 PM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> The following information may not interest all on the list. I think the
> name
> depends who you are dealing with. The F.I.A ( Federation of International
> Motorsport ) controlled and managed the sports car championship in
> 1965.This
> championship was officially called - 'THE MANUFACTURER'S CHAMPIONSHIP' and
> was
> a promotion opportunity for manufacturers to show the value of their
> products.
> Events were held at Sebring, LeMans, Targa Florio and a fifth race I can't
> remember. In our case the Make entered was Austin Healey. Most
> interestingly
> the entrant was Donald Healey Motor Company. The Healeys entered in this
> championship were fitted with chassis plates that  identified the 3000
> as 'HEALEY GT and manufacturer, Donald Healey Motor Company.The
> LeMans/Sebring
> Sprites of that time had similar chassis plates. YOUR CHOICE, but I would
> not
> argue with your government or you could end up as an unidentifiable kit
car
> Joe

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug  1 07:07:16 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 09:07:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Brake Question
Message-ID: <003201c8f3d7$85889c60$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

 Another factor that can cause spongy brakes is if the shoes are not aligned
 perfectly perpendicular to the brake back plate. This causes only a portion
 of the shoe width to be contacting the width of the drum. The steady posts
 and their locking nuts allow adjustment of this. Also the shoe lining
 surface needs to be arced to perfectly match the arc of the drum surface.
 This will allow for quicker bedding in of the shoe/drum surfaces. Finally,
 accurate rear shoe adjustment can only be accomplished with the hand brake
 clevis temporarily undone.

 Rich Chrysler

From philritten at aol.com  Fri Aug  1 07:51:02 2008
From: philritten at aol.com (philritten at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 09:51:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Question
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0807312033m534df548hc6ee975b77e5897b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8CAC18AEF4F726C-CB4-2286@webmail-nc04.sysops.aol.com>
	<ff59076c0807312033m534df548hc6ee975b77e5897b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CAC1F4C5168941-370-5530@WEBMAIL-MB19.sysops.aol.com>

All,

The pedal is firm, it just isn't at the very top (say 1/2 to 1 inch from the top). Otherwise, the brakes seem to work pretty well (for 4 wheel drum).

Alan, I have a BN4/6. They were using some sort of bleeding kit (not sure exactly what it was). Curiously (for my own knowledge) does it matter if?you start on the Right Rear instead of the Left Rear?

Thanks,
Phil


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: philritten at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Question



Phil -

In my 25 years of owning Healeys, this is the first time I have EVER heard of this.? If what they say was true, you would be able to buy new drums from Moss motors, but as you know you cannot buy new brake drums for these cars - that's because they don't wear out!

The adjustment bolts on these cars will take up any amount of slack so I'd say your shop has been sniffing some brake pad vapors.? 

Phil - what car do you have?? Is it a BN1 or a BN2?? Or BN4/6?? One thing that is very particular about many of the drum brake healeys is they are very sensitive to how the brake system is bled.? This is what is causing your problem.? The brake system is best bled using an "ezibleed" kit which pressurizes the brake reservoir and makes sure all air is worked out of the system.? It MUST be bled in the following order:

Left Rear
Right Rear
Left Front
Right Front

If your shop has not bled the brakes in this way, then this is your problem, not the drums.? You can confirm this by getting into your car and pumping the brake pedal quickly once or twice - if the pressure comes back after pumping the pedal, this means they have not properly bled the system.? 

Find a better shop where they know what they are doing, or try to learn how to do this yourself.? Doing brakes on Nissans and Fords is not the same as a '50s era Healey.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8



On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 9:13 AM, <philritten at aol.com> wrote:

All,

The shop that was working on my brakes told me that they had adjusted my brakes ( 4 wheel drum) out as far as they could, and that the reason the pedal won't come all the way to the top is that the drums are worn from 50 years of use (it's firm and almost all the way to the top). Is that possible? They said that drums are often good for only three sets of pads. If so, do you eventually have to put a lining in the drum as the drums are no longer made? I've never heard that drums could wear out. I thought the only way was if they were "turned". I know that in the old (!) days there were rivets on the pads which could cause damage.

Thanks in advance,
Phil

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug  1 08:08:10 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 07:08:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Brake Question
In-Reply-To: <003201c8f3d7$85889c60$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
References: <003201c8f3d7$85889c60$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <489318CA.4030407@comcast.net>

Rich,

re:
"accurate rear shoe adjustment can only be accomplished with the hand 
brake clevis temporarily undone"

Why is that?  There seems to be  slack when the hand brake is completely 
released.


bs



Rich C wrote:
>  Another factor that can cause spongy brakes is if the shoes are not aligned
>  perfectly perpendicular to the brake back plate. This causes only a portion
>  of the shoe width to be contacting the width of the drum. The steady posts
>  and their locking nuts allow adjustment of this. Also the shoe lining
>  surface needs to be arced to perfectly match the arc of the drum surface.
>  This will allow for quicker bedding in of the shoe/drum surfaces. Finally,
>  accurate rear shoe adjustment can only be accomplished with the hand brake
>  clevis temporarily undone.
>
>  Rich Chrysler
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Aug  1 09:38:44 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 11:38:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
In-Reply-To: <D492F32FB7D642BD95AF66EC44127BB6@PatrickQuinnPC>
References: <1217569613.4892a34d5b1de@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
	<ff59076c0808010031v480dcce1ic2420c9db1de7a33@mail.gmail.com>
	<D492F32FB7D642BD95AF66EC44127BB6@PatrickQuinnPC>
Message-ID: <48932E04.6060406@comcast.net>

Patrick,
Are they in Bill Emerson's book so we can see what they look like?
Charlie Baldwin

Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day Alan
>
> Perhaps I should disclose that Joe has two of those DHMC built racing
> Austin-Healeys. He would be hesitant is saying this.
>
> The 1965 Sebring 3000 and the Sprite that ran at Sebring and Le Mans in '67
> and '68.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Friday, 1 August 2008 5:32 PM
> To: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
>
> Joe -
>
> That's because almost all the racing cars for AH were build at DHMC in
> Warwick, they weren't built at the Austin/BMC factory at Longbridge/Abingdon
> where most of our factory cars were built.  DHMC also had the exclusive
> rights to all racing for AH, and received a budget from Austin specifically
> for racing the AH.  The racing cars are a different breed.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 1:46 PM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:
>
>   
>> The following information may not interest all on the list. I think the
>> name
>> depends who you are dealing with. The F.I.A ( Federation of International
>> Motorsport ) controlled and managed the sports car championship in
>> 1965.This
>> championship was officially called - 'THE MANUFACTURER'S CHAMPIONSHIP' and
>> was
>> a promotion opportunity for manufacturers to show the value of their
>> products.
>> Events were held at Sebring, LeMans, Targa Florio and a fifth race I can't
>> remember. In our case the Make entered was Austin Healey. Most
>> interestingly
>> the entrant was Donald Healey Motor Company. The Healeys entered in this
>> championship were fitted with chassis plates that  identified the 3000
>> as 'HEALEY GT and manufacturer, Donald Healey Motor Company.The
>> LeMans/Sebring
>> Sprites of that time had similar chassis plates. YOUR CHOICE, but I would
>> not
>> argue with your government or you could end up as an unidentifiable kit
>>     
> car
>   
>> Joe
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 11:14:04 2008
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:14:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior door panels
Message-ID: <BAY117-W47F21365749111ACDEFD91A17F0@phx.gbl>

 Well, I splurged and purchased the new panels from HS and I must say they
look very good. Close to original(black). It would have been nice to go
Heritage, but I'm not a concourse guy. They fit on the door pretty well. One
problem. Now the door won't close!

 I tried trimming a few spots on the inside panel where they tuck everything
together and staple. The panels are well padded, maybe too much around the
edges where the weather stripping and panel meet. Will close only partially.

 Is this normal? Or are they not the quality I have paid for? Any tricks of
the trade I might try to get the door to close completely?

Thanks,

WD  67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenge
r2_072008

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug  1 11:45:11 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 13:45:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Brake Question
References: <003201c8f3d7$85889c60$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
	<489318CA.4030407@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005c01c8f3fe$589483f0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

The rear brakes can give you a false clearance with the hand brake cable 
partially applying prssure on the shoes. Release the hand brake clevis pin 
from the bellcrank actuator to allow the rods and levers to let the shoes to 
fully come to rest, then adjust the rear show clearance so they are just 
skimming the drums, then finally reinstall the hand brake clevis pin and 
adjust it for amount of slackness required.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Brake Question


> Rich,
>
> re:
> "accurate rear shoe adjustment can only be accomplished with the hand
> brake clevis temporarily undone"
>
> Why is that?  There seems to be  slack when the hand brake is completely
> released.
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> Rich C wrote:
>>  Another factor that can cause spongy brakes is if the shoes are not 
>> aligned
>>  perfectly perpendicular to the brake back plate. This causes only a 
>> portion
>>  of the shoe width to be contacting the width of the drum. The steady 
>> posts
>>  and their locking nuts allow adjustment of this. Also the shoe lining
>>  surface needs to be arced to perfectly match the arc of the drum 
>> surface.
>>  This will allow for quicker bedding in of the shoe/drum surfaces. 
>> Finally,
>>  accurate rear shoe adjustment can only be accomplished with the hand 
>> brake
>>  clevis temporarily undone.
>>
>>  Rich Chrysler
>>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Fri Aug  1 13:59:26 2008
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 14:59:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] dash question for a BJ7
Message-ID: <000001c8f411$1a9a2470$4fce6d50$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

I just recovered my  dash in some material that I got from Heritage.  I have
a question about the fuzzy fascia trim that goes along the bottom edge.
Does it extent all of the way up the sides of the dash to the top?  It
doesn't look quite right as I have it all of the way up the sides and the
curved sheet metal, dash brackets at each end don't form around the dash
ends very well.  Should I nip the ends of the fascia trim to so that the
edges of these sheet metal dash brackets are flush with the fascia trim or
what?  Thanks!

 

Randy  

Healey-Archaeologist

63 BJ7

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  1 16:23:57 2008
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 18:23:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior door panels
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0808011404y4dd0964uf040860920bb2ad@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY117-W47F21365749111ACDEFD91A17F0@phx.gbl>
	<d9b7a14d0808011404y4dd0964uf040860920bb2ad@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY117-W27BE8EC1D9B0B984637534A17F0@phx.gbl>

  Who is HS?- Tom67 BJ8
         Tom, HS=Healey Surgeons.


_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_fami
ly_safety_072008

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Aug  1 17:30:13 2008
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 19:30:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] San Diego
Message-ID: <48939C85.90601@earthlink.net>

Listers,

We're flying to San Diego tomorrow for a wedding on Monday.  Any Healey/LBC 
  activities on Sunday?

Bob

From ricksnover at earthlink.net  Fri Aug  1 18:11:35 2008
From: ricksnover at earthlink.net (Rick Snover)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 17:11:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] San Diego
In-Reply-To: <48939C85.90601@earthlink.net>
References: <48939C85.90601@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E1KP4ie-0005qI-In@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi Bob,
At 04:30 PM 8/1/2008, Bob Haskell wrote:
>We're flying to San Diego tomorrow for a wedding on Monday.  Any 
>Healey/LBC activities on Sunday?

Aside from what should be another weekend of great driving weather, 
we (AHCSD) don't have anything scheduled. I think we're still hung 
over from Conclave.

There IS a great annual car show down at Kimball Park in National 
City, their Automobile Heritage Day Parade & Car Show: 
http://nationalcitychamber.org/auto-heritage-show.asp . I've been in 
that show before, even won prizes, but didn't get around to entering 
my Sprite this year. There are usually a few other British cars 
there, maybe even a Healey or two.

Another show in the County on Sunday is Dalton's Roadhouse Restaurant 
Car Show, up in San Marcos. "Dalton's Roadhouse sponsors a monthly 
Car Show on the first Sunday of every month, year-round." 
http://www.daltonsroadhouse.com .  I've never been to this one, but I 
doubt there'll be very many British cars there.

I checked the MG and Triumph Clubs' web sites, too, and they don't 
have anything else scheduled for Sunday, either.

Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California, USA
V.P. (Membership), Activities Chairman & Webmaster, Austin-Healey 
Club of S.D. http://www.sdhealey.org
2nd V.P. (Membership) & Webmaster, S.D. British Car Club Council 
http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org
1964 Sprite Mk III AN8 (driver), 1959 Speedwell Sprite AN5 vintage 
racer (VARA http://www.vararacing.com), 1961 3000 Mk II BT7 (being 
restored), 1955 100 BN2 (pieces in storage)

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug  1 18:39:59 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 20:39:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint job Question
Message-ID: <001401c8f438$4be0d1b0$e626e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Is 2 coats of base coat followed by 2 coats of clear with sanding in between,
good enough for a lasting paint job if its done right.   What would be the
least amount of paint coats for a lasting paint job  on a 2000 to 3000 mile
per year, fair weather driven,   garage kept auto.

Or do most listers prefer 2 to 3 coats of polyurethane enamel on our British
Cars.

Mark

From pennell at cox.net  Fri Aug  1 19:26:44 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 21:26:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny
Message-ID: <20080801212644.TDEKP.31373.imail@eastrmwml37>

Seen on a bumper sticker . . . . . . . . . . 

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Keith Pennell

From pennell at cox.net  Fri Aug  1 19:26:45 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 21:26:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny
Message-ID: <20080801212645.UNYG5.31374.imail@eastrmwml37>

Seen on a bumper sticker . . . . . . . . . . 

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Keith Pennell

From pennell at cox.net  Fri Aug  1 19:26:45 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 21:26:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny
Message-ID: <20080801212645.TVVHS.31375.imail@eastrmwml37>

Seen on a bumper sticker . . . . . . . . . . 

Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Keith Pennell

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug  1 19:16:33 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 21:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] dash question for a BJ7
References: <000001c8f411$1a9a2470$4fce6d50$@com>
Message-ID: <00d801c8f43d$a22f4b50$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

Randy,

How timely. I am currently trimming out a '61 BN7 completely using Heritage
components and materials. The dash just went into the car yesterday after I
installed the fuzzy edging you refer to. The following would be the same on
a BJ7.
I first installed all the components I possibly could into the dash
assembly, then found and opened up the mounting screw holes through the
vinyl. Then I installed the fuzzy edging.
The edging starts immediately each side of the heater control panel and
presses onto the bottom edge, working toward the outer ends, cutting the
edging to finish right near the top of the dash panel. Any raw edges of
aluminum core will be well hidden where it tucks up under the shroud edge
and scuttle seals. This fuzzy edging must be installed first, before the
dash is installed. This fuzzy edging is the old aluminum core stuff that
must be gently pried open with a flat bladed screwdriver, then pressed onto
the dash, and finally gently pressed closed again. I used slip joint pliers
to press the strip closed. It seems to be firmly attached and unlike at a
door threshold opening, won't be disturbed in its position so should stay on
well.
When the dash mounting screws are tightened onto the left and right end
mounting brackets, the inner edge of fuzzy strip will be pinched a bit
between dash and mountings, but will not present any problems.
The accompanying pictures show the installation in place.

I'm sending this to John Sims in case he cares to post this along with the
pictures so others can follow the text.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 3:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] dash question for a BJ7


> Fellow Healeyoids,
>
> I just recovered my  dash in some material that I got from Heritage.  I
> have
> a question about the fuzzy fascia trim that goes along the bottom edge.
> Does it extent all of the way up the sides of the dash to the top?  It
> doesn't look quite right as I have it all of the way up the sides and the
> curved sheet metal, dash brackets at each end don't form around the dash
> ends very well.  Should I nip the ends of the fascia trim to so that the
> edges of these sheet metal dash brackets are flush with the fascia trim or
> what?  Thanks!
>
>
>
> Randy

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 1 002.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 1 001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 1 005.jpg]

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug  1 20:07:00 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2008 19:07:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Brake Question
In-Reply-To: <005c01c8f3fe$589483f0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
References: <003201c8f3d7$85889c60$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
	<489318CA.4030407@comcast.net>
	<005c01c8f3fe$589483f0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <4893C144.6050108@comcast.net>

Thanks, Rich.

bs


Rich C wrote:
> The rear brakes can give you a false clearance with the hand brake 
> cable partially applying prssure on the shoes. Release the hand brake 
> clevis pin from the bellcrank actuator to allow the rods and levers to 
> let the shoes to fully come to rest, then adjust the rear show 
> clearance so they are just skimming the drums, then finally reinstall 
> the hand brake clevis pin and adjust it for amount of slackness required.
>
> Rich Chrysler
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Aug  1 20:28:32 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 22:28:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey or Austin?
In-Reply-To: <000001c8f39f$2c343df0$4600a8c0@tm4>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAAO4xkv9iMZ1JorPCRXSfNUgBAAAAAA==@aon.at>
	<000001c8f39f$2c343df0$4600a8c0@tm4>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W358946466DDF3270284857AD7E0@phx.gbl>

After all this talk about registration of the Austin-Healey, I finally broke
down and looked at the Florida Title. The BJ7 was shipped from England to
Florida where it was and still is registered as Make "AUHE", Body "CV". So I
guess the State of Florida says it is an Austin-Healey convertible.
Bill
BJ7



> From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl> To: aon.912808691 at aon.at;
healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 08:23:53 +0200> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Austin Healey or Austin?>> > I have a small question - what/who is
officially the "make" of the car:> Austin Healey or Austin?> > Was there a
company called Austin-Healey?..> > The reason I am asking is I am trying to
register the car at DMV in Poland -> they are reluctant to accept the make of
the car as "Austin-Healey". Rather,> they say it's an Austin, but the type is
Healey..> I thought at first they must be wrong, but then I looked at the VIN
plate,> and it says Austin..> > > Any thoughts?> > How are your cars
registered?> > The Florida Title I have has:> Make: AUHE> Model: /empty/> >
Thanks for all help,> > Tadek

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Fri Aug  1 21:19:05 2008
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 20:19:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] non-healey: computer question
Message-ID: <0bda01c8f44e$84ccf470$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

Hate to hit the list with this but while lurking I've noticed a lot of savy
computer geeks out there.

I need a program or a way to convert  3 very  short SWF movies to WMV or AVI
or MOV for a powerpoint presentation.
Suggestions without spending all my daughters' inheritance?
TIA
Ron Davies
SoCal
67 BJ8
97 DB7

From DENewman2 at aol.com  Fri Aug  1 22:12:46 2008
From: DENewman2 at aol.com (DENewman2 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 00:12:46 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] AH Stuff
Message-ID: <d21.345bad57.35c538be@aol.com>

Some stuff about ready to go to the scrap heap.
 
Phase 2 BJ8 stuff (not the car)
 
 
Pictures of all.
If you know anything about NEW fenders--you want OLD fenders.
ORIGINAL: Right front fender (needs standard patch)
ORIGINAL: Left rear fender (needs standard patch)
ORIGINAL: Grill (1993 removed slats, had shop redo. A few dings--good if  you 
need full grill but not ready for NEW)
ORIGINAL: Right and Left kick panels with speaker holes cut in.
 
 
Can make available in Northern or Southern California.
You pick up or pay shipping. 
 
Don



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From ghess4 at cox.net  Fri Aug  1 22:34:29 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 21:34:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] non-healey: computer question
In-Reply-To: <0bda01c8f44e$84ccf470$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
References: <0bda01c8f44e$84ccf470$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
Message-ID: <3A515589FF1A452FB11E64341597D763@GalePC>

I've used this program for some time.  It seems to 
work.http://tinyurl.com/6ex7s3
 It's called e z joiner.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
To: "'Healeys Newsgroup'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 8:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] non-healey: question


> Hate to hit the list with this but while lurking I've noticed a lot of 
> savy
> computer geeks out there.
>
> I need a program or a way to convert  3 very  short SWF movies to WMV or 
> AVI
> or MOV for a powerpoint presentation.
> Suggestions without spending all my daughters' inheritance?
> TIA
> Ron Davies
> SoCal
> 67 BJ8
> 97 DB7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ghess4 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  1 23:08:44 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 22:08:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
Message-ID: <413120.86569.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers,

Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from Martin/CT.  The 185x15
Veredestein tires were alread here from BWW.  Today I had them mounted an
balanced at local chain tire store.  No problems so far.

On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that I am happy with the 5
inch rim width combined with the 185 profile. Glad I did not go for the 185/70
profile.

The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and not too thin.  I will put
them on the car on Sunday, and expect that they will fill the wheel well just
fine with the 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.

I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and responsive as a source
for daytons - at a good price. BWW was ex stock on tires.

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  1 23:10:33 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 22:10:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
Message-ID: <102338.88479.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers, BYW, anyone wants jpgs of the tire set up, email me at
rnb at ix.netcom.com,

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 8/1/08, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> Subject: BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Paul Schwartz" <lucashly at comcast.net>
> Date: Friday, August 1, 2008, 10:08 PM
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from
> Martin/CT.  The 185x15 Veredestein tires were alread here
> from BWW.  Today I had them mounted an balanced at local
> chain tire store.  No problems so far.
>
> On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that I am
> happy with the 5 inch rim width combined with the 185
> profile. Glad I did not go for the 185/70 profile.
>
> The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and
> not too thin.  I will put them on the car on Sunday, and
> expect that they will fill the wheel well just fine with the
> 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.
>
> I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and
> responsive as a source for daytons - at a good price. BWW
> was ex stock on tires.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>    

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  2 00:09:58 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 06:09:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Boot / Trunk holes
Message-ID: <BLU105-W17716D4AB28FD6F9DAD6F4D57E0@phx.gbl>

Guys
Does anyone have the measurements or would be willing to measure the position
of the holes on the left and right inner rear wings in the boot / trunk for
the wooden rails that hold the spare tyre and battery please (bj8). Also the
position of the chrome spare tyre tie down bracket on the front edge of the
boot floor.
many thanks
Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Get Hotmail on your mobile from Vodafone
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571435/direct/01/

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Aug  2 02:11:55 2008
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 18:11:55 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
In-Reply-To: <48932E04.6060406@comcast.net>
References: <1217569613.4892a34d5b1de@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
	<ff59076c0808010031v480dcce1ic2420c9db1de7a33@mail.gmail.com>
	<D492F32FB7D642BD95AF66EC44127BB6@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<48932E04.6060406@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <19F507D8BE38456193F1602F9821C1E1@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

The 3000 isn't in Bill's book but the Sprite is on pages 210 and 211. It's
great to drive.

After signing off from my work email address it's time to sign off from my
home address.

Hoo Roo for 5 weeks.

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin [mailto:mgcharlie at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, 2 August 2008 1:39 AM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: 'Alan Seigrist'; sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey

Patrick,
Are they in Bill Emerson's book so we can see what they look like?
Charlie Baldwin

Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day Alan
>
> Perhaps I should disclose that Joe has two of those DHMC built racing
> Austin-Healeys. He would be hesitant is saying this.
>
> The 1965 Sebring 3000 and the Sprite that ran at Sebring and Le Mans in
'67
> and '68.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Friday, 1 August 2008 5:32 PM
> To: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin 0r Austin Healey
>
> Joe -
>
> That's because almost all the racing cars for AH were build at DHMC in
> Warwick, they weren't built at the Austin/BMC factory at
Longbridge/Abingdon
> where most of our factory cars were built.  DHMC also had the exclusive
> rights to all racing for AH, and received a budget from Austin
specifically
> for racing the AH.  The racing cars are a different breed.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 1:46 PM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:
>
>   
>> The following information may not interest all on the list. I think the
>> name
>> depends who you are dealing with. The F.I.A ( Federation of International
>> Motorsport ) controlled and managed the sports car championship in
>> 1965.This
>> championship was officially called - 'THE MANUFACTURER'S CHAMPIONSHIP'
and
>> was
>> a promotion opportunity for manufacturers to show the value of their
>> products.
>> Events were held at Sebring, LeMans, Targa Florio and a fifth race I
can't
>> remember. In our case the Make entered was Austin Healey. Most
>> interestingly
>> the entrant was Donald Healey Motor Company. The Healeys entered in this
>> championship were fitted with chassis plates that  identified the 3000
>> as 'HEALEY GT and manufacturer, Donald Healey Motor Company.The
>> LeMans/Sebring
>> Sprites of that time had similar chassis plates. YOUR CHOICE, but I would
>> not
>> argue with your government or you could end up as an unidentifiable kit
>>     
> car
>   
>> Joe

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  2 04:19:39 2008
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 06:19:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior door panels
Message-ID: <BAY117-W26E6524D8A51BBB9140A00A17E0@phx.gbl>

Roland wrote;> "I haven't had experience with BJ8 door panels but the general
rule> with new stuff that fits near or around door openings is that you have>
to compress them to get them to fit. So it takes a lot of extra> effort to
close the doors/hoods/rear decks on new stuff the first> time. If/when you get
the doors closed, _leave_ them shut for at> least 24 hours to allow the new
stuff to take a set that will fit. It> won't be quite as hard the second time,
etc. but may be several weeks> before they close the way you would like them
to. > > Of course HS's panels may be way too thick. I would suggest perhaps>
contacting them and asking for suggestions."Thanks,
 I contacted Healey Surgeons  and Inan replied;

"In our experience, it has been the problem with the weather stripping rather
than the door panel.  We have changed the weather stripping to the bristleflex
which has a smaller and softer rubber gasket.  I have also heard people talk
about slicing the rubber gasket so that instead of bunching up the rubber will
collapse and lay on top of itself."

Inan

The work continues: Replace vent window rubber(done),interior door panels,
aluminum door finishers, carpeting(outsource), new dash when I get my next
stimulus check!? Work in progress since 1967. Easier now with the great folks
on the Healey list!

WD    67 BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Aug  2 05:18:47 2008
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 21:18:47 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <588E3B6D6B714C00B2B59F237D2E9DE0@PatrickQuinnPC>

G'day

 

It's almost 10pm on a Saturday night. I'm having a wild night in front of TV
while trying to unsubscribe from the Healey email list. Have been told that
I will receive a confirming email, but not yet received.

 

So what better fun that to annoy you all with a test message?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Aug  2 06:40:21 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 8:40:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
Message-ID: <20080802124021.TAWC13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

You've lost me on this one Robert.  I have 5" rims and the 185/70 Verdesteins on my BJ8 and they are perfect.  Don't understand the "fat" or "skinny" part.

tom 
> 
> From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> Date: 2008/08/02 Sat AM 01:08:44 EDT
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> CC: Paul Schwartz <lucashly at comcast.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from Martin/CT.  The 185x15
> Veredestein tires were alread here from BWW.  Today I had them mounted an
> balanced at local chain tire store.  No problems so far.
> 
> On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that I am happy with the 5
> inch rim width combined with the 185 profile. Glad I did not go for the 185/70
> profile.
> 
> The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and not too thin.  I will put
> them on the car on Sunday, and expect that they will fill the wheel well just
> fine with the 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.
> 
> I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and responsive as a source
> for daytons - at a good price. BWW was ex stock on tires.
> 
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>    
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ggilliam at usol.com  Sat Aug  2 07:36:44 2008
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:36:44 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Late Friday Funny
Message-ID: <200808021336.m72DaiCt007104@smtp.usol.com>

  Seen on another bumber sticker

  "My husband says he's broke

  Can you fix him?"

  Gordy
  57 BN4
Longbridge

From donyarber at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  2 08:58:54 2008
From: donyarber at earthlink.net (Don Yarber)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 09:58:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Humor
Message-ID: <000e01c8f4b0$49cfdd80$cf5ce104@yourc8bh3jaglt>

Another bumper sticker I saw:

SAVE GAS, BURN A BUSH


Don
Former BN7 owner
Author of "Bodies and Beaches" and "Corpses and Canyons"
Find news about my books at 
www.kipyardleymysteries.com

From kilo2mit at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 09:27:42 2008
From: kilo2mit at gmail.com (Jeffrey A. Steinberg)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:27:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heater value
Message-ID: <31D958A2-0509-471A-A179-07A8535F9367@gmail.com>

Someone told me there is a valve that prevents the hot water from  
going to the heater core.

I am trying to eliminate the hot cockpit syndrome of by BJ8 (64).   
Where is this located
and is there a downside?  I don't need anymore heat!




--Jeffrey

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sat Aug  2 09:42:01 2008
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:42:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
In-Reply-To: <413120.86569.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080802154142.21FB9187647@autox.team.net>

Can you post contact/location information for Martin?  Does he do mounting
and balancing as well?

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Robert Blair
> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 1:09 AM
> To: Healey List
> Cc: Paul Schwartz
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from Martin/CT.  The 185x15
> Veredestein tires were alread here from BWW.  Today I had them mounted an
> balanced at local chain tire store.  No problems so far.
> 
> On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that I am happy with the
> 5
> inch rim width combined with the 185 profile. Glad I did not go for the
> 185/70
> profile.
> 
> The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and not too thin.  I will
> put
> them on the car on Sunday, and expect that they will fill the wheel well
> just
> fine with the 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.
> 
> I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and responsive as a
> source
> for daytons - at a good price. BWW was ex stock on tires.
> 
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  2 10:25:21 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 09:25:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
In-Reply-To: <20080802154142.21FB9187647@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <989181.57946.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter,

Martin is at martingf at aol.com - 516-978-6161 - on the east coast.

I do not think he offers mounting etc - but I may be wrong.  Due to the
distance I got my tires from BWW and had them fitted and balanced by a local
tire chain store.

   Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Peter Schauss <schauss at worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> From: Peter Schauss <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: "'Paul Schwartz'" <lucashly at comcast.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 8:42 AM
> Can you post contact/location information for Martin?  Does
> he do mounting
> and balancing as well?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> >
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf
> > Of Robert Blair
> > Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 1:09 AM
> > To: Healey List
> > Cc: Paul Schwartz
> > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires -
> ready to go....
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from
> Martin/CT.  The 185x15
> > Veredestein tires were alread here from BWW.  Today I
> had them mounted an
> > balanced at local chain tire store.  No problems so
> far.
> >
> > On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that
> I am happy with the
> > 5
> > inch rim width combined with the 185 profile. Glad I
> did not go for the
> > 185/70
> > profile.
> >
> > The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat,
> and not too thin.  I will
> > put
> > them on the car on Sunday, and expect that they will
> fill the wheel well
> > just
> > fine with the 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185
> tire.
> >
> > I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and
> responsive as a
> > source
> > for daytons - at a good price. BWW was ex stock on
> tires.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Sat Aug  2 12:47:50 2008
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 14:47:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
Message-ID: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

So yesterday I got around to doing my oil change. Who knew that you could
spend 6 hours and still not have a driveable car? In my cleverness back in the
late 70's I was in a parts store to buy an oil filter. They mentioned that
they would not be able to reorder the filter after these were gone and so I
bought all they had. Then I parked the car for 25 or so years. Last oil change
everything was fine. By now, about thirty years later, however, the gaskets in
the box with the filter have gotten a little bit hard, plus they have
shrunken, not much, but just enough. After  struggling to get things off and
on around the wires from the rear, I finally got things back together. Started
the engine, kept my eye on the oil pressure gauge and... nothing happened,
needle barely moved. I thought "give it a few seconds more", still nothing.
Shut it down, heard a funny noise as I did. Looked under the car and the
puddle of oil was already 30 inches across. Damn! The filter was not sealed at
the gasket. Took the filter off again (Things are really slippery by now.)
Sure enough there was the cut where the filter housing has cut the gasket. Got
a gasket from another filter, size looked good, put it on. Cranked the engine,
didn't wait long this time. I am getting smarter, I know that sound now of oil
gushing around the gasketby now. Puddle is now 3 feet across. Neighbor comes
over to "help". Says "Hey, Bob, whats this running down the driveway?" Puddle
is now 6 feet long. Tooks things apart again, put the old gasket that was on
the old filter and just as I expected, that didn't work either. Spent the next
4 hours trying to clean up the spill after pushing the car back into the
garage and putting a large tray under the car to catch what is surely going to
continue to drip. BTW, I also left the strainer out of the o/d. Get to redo
that, too.

Questions:
Did I miss some obvious step here?
Is there an o-ring that will fit? If so, what size do I need to look for?
These spin-on adapters (really considering this now), is there one that mounts
the filter in an upright attitude? If so who has it?

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From coll44 at msn.com  Sat Aug  2 13:00:22 2008
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 15:00:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale
Message-ID: <BLU111-W3943DF4D29ED036886301AC97E0@phx.gbl>

All,

I have a restored '64 BJ8 (MK III Phase II) that I'm thinking about selling
and wanted to see if there was any interest within the Healey community before
I put it on line.  Please respond via e-mail if interested in details.

Regards and thanks for the kind help over the years,

Terry Coll
_________________________________________________________________
Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 13:50:59 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 12:50:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-W3943DF4D29ED036886301AC97E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU111-W3943DF4D29ED036886301AC97E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808021250n441069ex80f9bda11ea6c599@mail.gmail.com>

Terry,
if you have an extra buyer let me know.i am selling my 1965 BJ8 early
phase II also.
ron rader

On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 12:00 PM, TERRY COLL <coll44 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I have a restored '64 BJ8 (MK III Phase II) that I'm thinking about selling
> and wanted to see if there was any interest within the Healey community before
> I put it on line.
>
 Terry Coll
> _________________________________________________________________

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Aug  2 14:45:36 2008
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 15:45:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
References: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <1212850B1DF84E14B16BE1BE1C10CA5E@Lemonlaptop>

Bob, have had it happen to me to, the rubber ring actually seals pretty well 
on the canister style filter, but you need to make sure the cannister slips 
into its slot, you can tighten it down without the cannister seated in its 
slot, which is where the gasket should be, so first make sure the gasket is 
in there, and next tighten the cannister down until it is just on the lip of 
the housing, then jiggle or maneuver it so that it is in its slot, it should 
slide in a little (against the spring tension) now hold it in and tighten
 the bolt to make sure it stays where it is supposed to be.

 Certainly not as simple as a spin on, but is really not too hard once you 
get the hang of it.

You can get 3000 filters still at NAPA, it will come with the gasket, part 
number is on John Sims Healey 6 website,  I have half a dozen or so (rubber 
gasket rings) would be glad to send you one free, but maybe a
 lister closer could help as well (assuming you are on one of the coasts and 
not the midwest)

 Greg Lemon

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  2 14:57:53 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:57:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] heater value
In-Reply-To: <31D958A2-0509-471A-A179-07A8535F9367@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <742767.19655.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

put you hand on top of the heater core behind dash, left side ,feel the 
control valve ... drive the car , if it gets hot you have to adjust the control valve cable to the full off stop ... Norman Nock

see Healey Marque Magazine July 2004 or Page 232 in my Tech Talk book


--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Jeffrey A. Steinberg <kilo2mit at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Jeffrey A. Steinberg <kilo2mit at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] heater value
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 8:27 AM
> Someone told me there is a valve that prevents the hot water
> from  
> going to the heater core.
> 
> I am trying to eliminate the hot cockpit syndrome of by BJ8
> (64).   
> Where is this located
> and is there a downside?  I don't need anymore heat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Jeffrey
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  2 15:11:09 2008
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 14:11:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
In-Reply-To: <20080802124021.TAWC13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
References: <20080802124021.TAWC13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W395FAEFEC668B05D6EC0D8BF7E0@phx.gbl>

I just received my 185 70 15 Vredensteins via UPS yesterday for my BN7.
Currently riding 10 yr old Pirelli Centurados P3's.  Pulled off the first one
last night using old tire irons and found the tubeless Pirelli's have tubes in
them.  Si I found some tubes today and will install later this weekend.  I
debated about going tubeless as Prior owners tracked this car but elected to
find tubes anyway since I may also track it downthe road when I get some
comfort and seat time in it.

Now if I can just register the CA car in KY (3 attempts at DMV so far), all
will be well.

Richard of KY
1960 BN7> From: tomfelts at windstream.net> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com;
healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 08:40:21 -0400> CC:
lucashly at comcast.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready
to go....> > You've lost me on this one Robert. I have 5" rims and the 185/70
Verdesteins on my BJ8 and they are perfect. Don't understand the "fat" or
"skinny" part.> > tom > > > > From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>> > Date:
2008/08/02 Sat AM 01:08:44 EDT> > To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>> >
CC: Paul Schwartz <lucashly at comcast.net>> > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new
wheels & tires - ready to go....> > > > Listers,> > > > Yesterday the new
dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from Martin/CT. The 185x15> > Veredestein tires
were alread here from BWW. Today I had them mounted an> > balanced at local
chain tire store. No problems so far.> > > > On the age old subject of size(s)
I would report that I am happy with the 5> > inch rim width combined with the
185 profile. Glad I did not go for the 185/70> > profile.> > > > The std
profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and not too thin. I will put> > them on
the car on Sunday, and expect that they will fill the wheel well just> > fine
with the 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.> > > > I can recommend
Martin in CT - he was very helpful and responsive as a source> > for daytons -
at a good price. BWW was ex stock on tires.> > > > Robert N. Blair 65 Yellow
BJ8 rnbmail at yahoo.com> > > > _______________________________________________>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > >
Healeys at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > >
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net> > > >
http://www.team.net/archive> _______________________________________________>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive
_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Aug  2 15:45:47 2008
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 14:45:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Easy simple product helps eliminate gas gauge fluctuations
Message-ID: <C4BA239B.28690%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

In my gallery below is a how-to picture of a simple device which does a
great job of removing the fuel gauge needle fluctuations. Sourcing
information is included.

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 16:13:41 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 06:13:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
In-Reply-To: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808021513o7752ea21m88795abaf5728196@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

If you want a spin on adaptor that fits on your OEM tecalemit boss,
there is only one option:

Flexolite.co.uk

They even had an adaptor for my A90's oddball tecalemit head - had to
use that because the adaptor everyone else sells which sticks out the
side of the motor didn't give me any clearance to the chassis to fit
the filter.

Alan




On 8/3/08, Bob Johnson <robert.w.johnson at charter.net> wrote:
> So yesterday I got around to doing my oil change. Who knew that you could
> spend 6 hours and still not have a driveable car? In my cleverness back in
> the
> late 70's I was in a parts store to buy an oil filter. They mentioned that
> they would not be able to reorder the filter after these were gone and so I
> bought all they had. Then I parked the car for 25 or so years. Last oil
> change
> everything was fine. By now, about thirty years later, however, the gaskets
> in
> the box with the filter have gotten a little bit hard, plus they have
> shrunken, not much, but just enough. After  struggling to get things off and
> on around the wires from the rear, I finally got things back together.
> Started
> the engine, kept my eye on the oil pressure gauge and... nothing happened,
> needle barely moved. I thought "give it a few seconds more", still nothing.
> Shut it down, heard a funny noise as I did. Looked under the car and the
> puddle of oil was already 30 inches across. Damn! The filter was not sealed
> at
> the gasket. Took the filter off again (Things are really slippery by now.)
> Sure enough there was the cut where the filter housing has cut the gasket.
> Got
> a gasket from another filter, size looked good, put it on. Cranked the
> engine,
> didn't wait long this time. I am getting smarter, I know that sound now of
> oil
> gushing around the gasketby now. Puddle is now 3 feet across. Neighbor comes
> over to "help". Says "Hey, Bob, whats this running down the driveway?"
> Puddle
> is now 6 feet long. Tooks things apart again, put the old gasket that was on
> the old filter and just as I expected, that didn't work either. Spent the
> next
> 4 hours trying to clean up the spill after pushing the car back into the
> garage and putting a large tray under the car to catch what is surely going
> to
> continue to drip. BTW, I also left the strainer out of the o/d. Get to redo
> that, too.
>
> Questions:
> Did I miss some obvious step here?
> Is there an o-ring that will fit? If so, what size do I need to look for?
> These spin-on adapters (really considering this now), is there one that
> mounts
> the filter in an upright attitude? If so who has it?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From kbeck100 at rcn.com  Sat Aug  2 16:24:39 2008
From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 18:24:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale
References: <BLU111-W3943DF4D29ED036886301AC97E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002d01c8f4ee$8df4e5d0$4bfc3ad0@recroom>

where are you located
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TERRY COLL" <coll44 at msn.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 3:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale


> All,
>
> I have a restored '64 BJ8 (MK III Phase II) that I'm thinking about 
> selling
> and wanted to see if there was any interest within the Healey community 
> before
> I put it on line.  Please respond via e-mail if interested in details.
>
> Regards and thanks for the kind help over the years,
>
> Terry Coll
> _________________________________________________________________
> Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never 
> before.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as kbeck100 at rcn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From kbeck100 at rcn.com  Sat Aug  2 16:24:59 2008
From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 18:24:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale
References: <BLU111-W3943DF4D29ED036886301AC97E0@phx.gbl>
	<5caeedb50808021250n441069ex80f9bda11ea6c599@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003201c8f4ee$99f3baa0$4bfc3ad0@recroom>

where are you located?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "F. Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 4 sale


> Terry,
> if you have an extra buyer let me know.i am selling my 1965 BJ8 early
> phase II also.
> ron rader
>
> On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 12:00 PM, TERRY COLL <coll44 at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> All,
>>
>> I have a restored '64 BJ8 (MK III Phase II) that I'm thinking about 
>> selling
>> and wanted to see if there was any interest within the Healey community 
>> before
>> I put it on line.
>>
> Terry Coll
>> _________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as kbeck100 at rcn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bjcap at optonline.net  Sat Aug  2 18:15:11 2008
From: bjcap at optonline.net (Carroll A Phillips)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 20:15:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] re paint job question
Message-ID: <004d01c8f4fd$ff02dca0$6401a8c0@carrolls>

Mark,

On a urethane base / clear you need 2 coats base (depending on color 
coverage) and min. 2 coats clear,preferably with no sanding in between( its 
a chemical bond your after). If mistakes are made there is definaltly room 
for sanding and repair. If this is a solid color you can use just 2 coats 
urethane colorcoat. All colorcoat final wetsand should be 1500-2000 grit, 
(with a little dish detergent in the water) then buffing process. This is a 
general rule for urethanes but best to consult the brands directions your 
using.

Carroll phillips   Top Down Restorations 

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 18:39:00 2008
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 17:39:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting (San Miguel, MX)
Message-ID: <471534970808021739v4b6cff3dw2e51d1a9d7fbe7ef@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Folks,

My mum is off at this artist's community in San Miguel Mexico. As she
was talking to me the other day a fully restored '67 AH 3000 drove by
her. She's a car afficianado, and owned a '68 when it was new, so
generally I don't question her when she identifies a car.

Anyone know about this car? She said it was a gorgeous example.

Jody

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1959 Studebaker Lark VIII Hot Rod
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug  2 19:57:10 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 01:57:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Easy simple product helps eliminate gas gauge
 fluctuations
Message-ID: <080320080157.6897.48951076000E1EDD00001AF1220702157304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Hmmmmmmm ... looks like a capacitor on the ground lead.

Anyone got a a do-it-yourself design (would have to modify the terminals on this on to suit a Healey)?


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
> In my gallery below is a how-to picture of a simple device which does a
> great job of removing the fuel gauge needle fluctuations. Sourcing
> information is included.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech
> 
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena, CA
> _______________________________________________

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  2 20:59:15 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 22:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
Message-ID: <001d01c8f514$eb21a1a0$4825e046@markl946cfrd7q>

I am installing my fenders for an alignment check before painting.   Why is
there a tapped plate used at the top of each rear fender rather than a j-clip
and screw
like the other holes.     My original tapped plate was extremely corroded and
I really don't see a serious need to use a plate as opposed to a j-clip and
screw
or even a screw and nut.

What was the reason for these tapped plates?

Mark

From flyhihealey at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  3 05:44:56 2008
From: flyhihealey at hotmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 07:44:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check assmbly BJ8
Message-ID: <BAY117-W13CD938ADFF12ECD37C7AA1790@phx.gbl>

 Is there a way to refurbish these mechanisms? It's normally the threaded
bolt(righthand\lefthand) that becomes stripped. I have four of these complete
and only one works(passenger door) and properly holds the door open. Over the
years I have successfully been able to rethread the right hand and even went
to a smaller threading but they become stripped and eventually inoperable no
matter how carefully I adjust.
 New ones are very pricey and I'm sitting here with three that only need a new
threaded bolt?

WD   67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together like never before.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 06:09:45 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:09:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808030509r15eea313r9c9a00b963429b94@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -

In the process of planning on a complete teardown and rebuild of my BJ8.

I was wondering if any of you have ordered the prebent brake lines from
Classic Tube?  Do they fit well?

I asked Mr. Finespanner but he only does mild steel and I really need SS for
my car here in HK, so no need to refer me to him, he already referred me to
Classic Tube.

Thanks,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Aug  3 06:36:18 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 08:36:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check assmbly BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-W13CD938ADFF12ECD37C7AA1790@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-W13CD938ADFF12ECD37C7AA1790@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004801c8f565$878520d0$6f00a8c0@michael>

Hi Warren,
If you purchase a cheap turnbuckle (used for tensioning cables) from a
hardware store, get one with 5/16" threads, it is a fairly simple task to
use the pieces of thread, one LHT and one RHT, used in it to replace the
striped ones in the door check. U do need to have some ability to weld.

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Warren Dietz
Sent: August 3, 2008 7:45 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Door Check assmbly BJ8

 Is there a way to refurbish these mechanisms? It's normally the threaded
bolt(righthand\lefthand) that becomes stripped. I have four of these
complete
and only one works(passenger door) and properly holds the door open. Over
the
years I have successfully been able to rethread the right hand and even went
to a smaller threading but they become stripped and eventually inoperable no
matter how carefully I adjust.
 New ones are very pricey and I'm sitting here with three that only need a
new
threaded bolt?

WD   67 BJ8

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 06:47:13 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 08:47:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?
Message-ID: <cf6.39340c55.35c702d1@aol.com>

Alan,
I recently installed a Classic Tube prebent stainless steel break line set  
on my '64 BJ8 Phase 1. They did fit quite well with two exceptions. I received  
one line, I can't remember which one, maybe the one for the reservoir, that 
had  incorrect fittings & one for the rear axle that was the wrong length.  
They were coperative, but limited in their knowledge of Austin-Healeys. I had to  
send the incorrect lines back & also send them my old lines so that they  
could make correct replacements. 
Gary Hodson 
 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2008 7:10:33 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:

Hi All  -

In the process of planning on a complete teardown and rebuild of my  BJ8.

I was wondering if any of you have ordered the prebent brake lines  from
Classic Tube?  Do they fit well?

I asked Mr. Finespanner  but he only does mild steel and I really need SS for
my car here in HK, so  no need to refer me to him, he already referred me to
Classic  Tube.

Thanks,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64  BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  3 07:22:12 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 09:22:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?
References: <ff59076c0808030509r15eea313r9c9a00b963429b94@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c8f56b$f1d086e0$6f26e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Sorry Alan no experience with Classic.   Why the need for stainless? 
Wouldn't the copper/nickel
serve the same purpose.   The copper / nickel, pre cut, kit that I got from 
Moss served me very well and the " bendie" characteristic of this material 
is very forgiving.

It was very simple to use the old lines as a pattern and at least get the 
bends and angles close enough for a little fine tweaking when installing on 
the car.    I was very happy with the final results.  And the cost was very 
reasonable.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:09 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?


> Hi All -
>
> In the process of planning on a complete teardown and rebuild of my BJ8.
>
> I was wondering if any of you have ordered the prebent brake lines from
> Classic Tube?  Do they fit well?
>
> I asked Mr. Finespanner but he only does mild steel and I really need SS 
> for
> my car here in HK, so no need to refer me to him, he already referred me 
> to
> Classic Tube.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug  3 07:31:00 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 09:31:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
References: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <007701c8f56d$2b3df420$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

Bob,

It is a simple matter of undoing the two bolts between the filter housing 
assembly and the block. There is only a simple flat gasket (available 
separately Moss #021-115) to replace and realign there. Take the entire 
assembly to the benck and dismantle it into a suitable sized catch pan. Once 
clean, I mount the housing head gently into a bench vise, and using an old 
dental pick, remove the old sealing ring from its groove. There is always a 
new sealing ring in the box with a new filter. Wet the new ring with engine 
oil and install it into the groove. Sometimes a blunt flat bladed 
screwdriver is needed to seat the ring squarely into the groove. Now with 
the new filter and associated spring and backing plate in place, install the 
centre bolt and run it up until the cannister flange seats evenly all around 
the groove. Tighten securely. Reinstall the complete assembly back onto the 
flat gasket at the block, making sure this gasket is in good condition. 
Tighten the two bolts to the block and you're finished.

Bottom line is, get the assembly over to the bench where you can see what 
you're doing to seat that ring properly.

Rich Chrysler

> So yesterday I got around to doing my oil change. > Questions:
> Did I miss some obvious step here?
> Is there an o-ring that will fit? If so, what size do I need to look for?
> These spin-on adapters (really considering this now), is there one that 
> mounts
> the filter in an upright attitude? If so who has it?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 07:56:53 2008
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 09:56:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
In-Reply-To: <007701c8f56d$2b3df420$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
References: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
	<007701c8f56d$2b3df420$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0808030656r26e48329j630d946ee5e46215@mail.gmail.com>

I use the Napa filters in my canister-style oil filter.   Is the performance
of the spin-on filters better, or just a heck of a lot easier to change?

The canister looks like it easily holds a quart of oil.  Does the engine
take less oil with a spin-on filter?

- Tom


On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:31 AM, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> It is a simple matter of undoing the two bolts between the filter housing
> assembly and the block. There is only a simple flat gasket (available
> separately Moss #021-115) to replace and realign there. Take the entire
> assembly to the benck and dismantle it into a suitable sized catch pan.
> Once
> clean, I mount the housing head gently into a bench vise, and using an old
> dental pick, remove the old sealing ring from its groove. There is always a
> new sealing ring in the box with a new filter. Wet the new ring with engine
> oil and install it into the groove. Sometimes a blunt flat bladed
> screwdriver is needed to seat the ring squarely into the groove. Now with
> the new filter and associated spring and backing plate in place, install
> the
> centre bolt and run it up until the cannister flange seats evenly all
> around
> the groove. Tighten securely. Reinstall the complete assembly back onto the
> flat gasket at the block, making sure this gasket is in good condition.
> Tighten the two bolts to the block and you're finished.
>
> Bottom line is, get the assembly over to the bench where you can see what
> you're doing to seat that ring properly.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug  3 08:11:18 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 10:11:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
References: <001d01c8f514$eb21a1a0$4825e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <009501c8f572$cc9801d0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

The tapped steel plate is about 1" x 3" and therefore will pull the inner 
flange tightly closed against the body, spreading the load evenly and 
keeping the flange flat. This is a critical and more difficult area to 
obtain a nice closed seam, and the plate will allow that to happen.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 10:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question


>I am installing my fenders for an alignment check before painting.   Why is
> there a tapped plate used at the top of each rear fender rather than a 
> j-clip
> and screw
> like the other holes.     My original tapped plate was extremely corroded 
> and
> I really don't see a serious need to use a plate as opposed to a j-clip 
> and
> screw
> or even a screw and nut.
>
> What was the reason for these tapped plates?
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  3 09:25:20 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 08:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
In-Reply-To: <007701c8f56d$2b3df420$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <897129.7063.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob, Lucky it was not a 6 grand oil change......be happy.

   Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sun, 8/3/08, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:

> From: Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
> To: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>, "Healeys"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, August 3, 2008, 6:31 AM
> Bob,
>
> It is a simple matter of undoing the two bolts between the
> filter housing
> assembly and the block. There is only a simple flat gasket
> (available
> separately Moss #021-115) to replace and realign there.
> Take the entire
> assembly to the benck and dismantle it into a suitable
> sized catch pan. Once
> clean, I mount the housing head gently into a bench vise,
> and using an old
> dental pick, remove the old sealing ring from its groove.
> There is always a
> new sealing ring in the box with a new filter. Wet the new
> ring with engine
> oil and install it into the groove. Sometimes a blunt flat
> bladed
> screwdriver is needed to seat the ring squarely into the
> groove. Now with
> the new filter and associated spring and backing plate in
> place, install the
> centre bolt and run it up until the cannister flange seats
> evenly all around
> the groove. Tighten securely. Reinstall the complete
> assembly back onto the
> flat gasket at the block, making sure this gasket is in
> good condition.
> Tighten the two bolts to the block and you're finished.
>
> Bottom line is, get the assembly over to the bench where
> you can see what
> you're doing to seat that ring properly.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> > So yesterday I got around to doing my oil change. >
> Questions:
> > Did I miss some obvious step here?
> > Is there an o-ring that will fit? If so, what size do
> I need to look for?
> > These spin-on adapters (really considering this now),
> is there one that
> > mounts
> > the filter in an upright attitude? If so who has it?
> >
> > Bob Johnson
> > BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Aug  3 10:04:24 2008
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 12:04:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808030509r15eea313r9c9a00b963429b94@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080803160404.54F65187671@autox.team.net>

I bought a set for my BJ7 several years ago.  At the time he did not have a
template for my car, so I took a chance and ordered a set for a BT/BN7.
Everything fit perfectly except that the two short tubes which connected the
brake hoses to the front calipers had the wrong type of fitting on one end.
On the BJ8, that would not have been an issue since he had a template.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:10 AM
> To: Healey
> Subject: [Healeys] Classic Tube - SS Brake lines - advice?
> 
> Hi All -
> 
> In the process of planning on a complete teardown and rebuild of my BJ8.
> 
> I was wondering if any of you have ordered the prebent brake lines from
> Classic Tube?  Do they fit well?
> 
> I asked Mr. Finespanner but he only does mild steel and I really need SS
> for
> my car here in HK, so no need to refer me to him, he already referred me
> to
> Classic Tube.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sun Aug  3 10:20:35 2008
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 09:20:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Gauge Device
In-Reply-To: <cf2.3aa6dabc.35c724e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C4BB28E3.286C3%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

Bill,
Just to the right of the PN in the caption is the 800 number of Zims, the
supplier.
I don't know if it makes a difference re the ground--my car's neg ground.
Suspect it doesn't make a difference because when we change the ground we
don't have to do anything to the gauges, except for the tach on BJ8s.

I installed it yesterday and it does get rid of the jiggles in the gauge.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6


From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:12:32 EDT
To: steveg at abrazosdata.com
Subject: Gas Gauge Device


Hi Steve

Can you tell me a little more about the gas gauge device?  All I see in the
gallery is the photo and a (to me) cryptic part number.  Where do I purchase
this little gem?  Have you used one with success?  Does it make a difference
if a car is positive or negative ground?  Thanks in advance.

Bill Wilkman
Riverside, CA






Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews
on AOL Autos 
<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000
017> .

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug  3 10:49:52 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 12:49:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Gauge Device
Message-ID: <20080803.124952.3488.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I owned a '67 Triumph GT6, which had a voltage stabilizer. If I remember
correctly it was used to prevent fluctuations in the fuel gauge needle.
These should still be available.

Doug
 
> Bill,
> Just to the right of the PN in the caption is the 800 number of 
> Zims, the
> supplier.
> I don't know if it makes a difference re the ground--my car's neg 
> ground.
> Suspect it doesn't make a difference because when we change the 
> ground we
> don't have to do anything to the gauges, except for the tach on 
> BJ8s.
> 
> I installed it yesterday and it does get rid of the jiggles in the 
> gauge.
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
> 
> 
> From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:12:32 EDT
> To: steveg at abrazosdata.com
> Subject: Gas Gauge Device
> 
> 
> Hi Steve
> 
> Can you tell me a little more about the gas gauge device?  All I see 
> in the
> gallery is the photo and a (to me) cryptic part number.  Where do I 
> purchase
> this little gem?  Have you used one with success?  Does it make a 
> difference
> if a car is positive or negative ground?  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Bill Wilkman
> Riverside, CA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read 
> reviews
> on AOL Autos 
>
<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000
000
> 017> .
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Save for the future with great IRA Funds. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nIaEl6bvvGI2c6K3s6RuAg5RK89zwGMtkhtslXcT2Usr9WU/

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug  3 13:59:18 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 15:59:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smiths Thermostats
Message-ID: <20080803.155919.1788.3.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have some NOS Smiths thermostats. Three (in the original box) are
marked 85025/70 (158 deg. F), 85025/74 (165 deg. F), and 85025/86 (187
deg. F). One box is hand marked "XK 120 - 140", so I assume all three
have the same application. Also, have a box marked 43570/16 (160 deg. F).
Have three loose, without a box. 85025/86 (187 deg. F) and two without a
box marked 85025/80 (176 deg. F). To the best of my knowledge, the ones
not in a box have never been used and have a patina from age. If you have
an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Compete with the big boys.  Click here to find products to benefit your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m7tD9ZmvGAlsIqTnMLojLs1fmNl8GT4APZ7YuP73Lm2xPoA/

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Aug  3 15:29:07 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 15:29:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
In-Reply-To: <007701c8f56d$2b3df420$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOEKECIAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Bottom line is, get the assembly over to the bench where you can see what
you're doing to seat that ring properly.>>

TOTALLY agree with Rich and it IS what I have been doing for more years than
I will EVER admit to!!!!	LOL  And for those that need I have 50ish
IN-stock<G>!!

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates	AH BJ 7	)
Please visit my site at:	www.justbrits.com

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 15:31:23 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 17:31:23 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
Message-ID: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>

All,
 
I am still getting a "puffing" noise from my BN4/6 after I have driven  it a 
little. After warming it up, I take it up on the freeway a mile or  two, turn 
around and bring it home. After that, every fourth  or fifth sound out of the 
tail pipe is a "puffing" sound. Interestingly, the  idle is still smooth (no 
obvious missing). The only way you can tell there is a  problem is listening to 
the tail pipe.  BTW - when idling and warming up in  the garage there is a 
steady staccato sound from the tail pipe. 
 
I'm rather puzzled. I replaced the plugs/cap/rotor/wires and set the  timing 
around 15 BTDC. I looked under the hood at night (in the dark) to see if  
there was any shorting and didn't see anything. There doesn't seem to be the  same 
problem with the rotor rubbing on the cap that I had before. By the way, I  
have electronic ignition.
 
I'm wondering if it could be something like a bad coil or something that  
fails once it has warmed up.
 
Thank you all,
 
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 16:11:34 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 18:11:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
In-Reply-To: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>
References: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808031511lbf0647cudf95845bcc145051@mail.gmail.com>

Phil -

Well I know this is or isn't what you want to hear, but, I have to
congratulate you!   You've completely tuned your car!

A little "puffing" out the exhaust at idle, if there's no missing, is
quite normal for a healey.

I'd suggest enjoy driving the car now!

Alan




On 8/4/08, PhilRitten at aol.com <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> I am still getting a "puffing" noise from my BN4/6 after I have driven  it a
> little. After warming it up, I take it up on the freeway a mile or  two,
> turn
> around and bring it home. After that, every fourth  or fifth sound out of
> the
> tail pipe is a "puffing" sound. Interestingly, the  idle is still smooth (no
> obvious missing). The only way you can tell there is a  problem is listening
> to
> the tail pipe.  BTW - when idling and warming up in  the garage there is a
> steady staccato sound from the tail pipe.
>
> I'm rather puzzled. I replaced the plugs/cap/rotor/wires and set the  timing
> around 15 BTDC. I looked under the hood at night (in the dark) to see if
> there was any shorting and didn't see anything. There doesn't seem to be the
>  same
> problem with the rotor rubbing on the cap that I had before. By the way, I
> have electronic ignition.
>
> I'm wondering if it could be something like a bad coil or something that
> fails once it has warmed up.
>
> Thank you all,
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
> )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  3 16:49:16 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:49:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808031511lbf0647cudf95845bcc145051@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>
	<ff59076c0808031511lbf0647cudf95845bcc145051@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <n8dc945ehsv75l7gtut5063j12gkapol5c@4ax.com>

I'd have to agree with Alan, particularly if the car has reasonable
power, doesn't stumble upon acceleration, and doesn't overheat.  Maybe
Phil needs to listen to other people's Healeys a bit and decide.  A
slightly burbly exhaust note is part of the fun of having a Healey.

-Roland

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 18:11:34 -0400, Alan wrote:

::Phil -
::
::Well I know this is or isn't what you want to hear, but, I have to
::congratulate you!   You've completely tuned your car!
::
::A little "puffing" out the exhaust at idle, if there's no missing, is
::quite normal for a healey.
::
::I'd suggest enjoy driving the car now!
::
::Alan
::
::
::
::
::On 8/4/08, PhilRitten at aol.com <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:
::> All,
::>
::> I am still getting a "puffing" noise from my BN4/6 after I have driven  it
a
::> little. After warming it up, I take it up on the freeway a mile or  two,
::> turn
::> around and bring it home. After that, every fourth  or fifth sound out of
::> the
::> tail pipe is a "puffing" sound.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Aug  3 16:58:47 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:58:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
In-Reply-To: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>
References: <c46.3a10fa78.35c77dab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48963827.10500@comcast.net>

Try enrichening the carbs a smidgen.

bs


PhilRitten at aol.com wrote:
> All,
>  
> I am still getting a "puffing" noise from my BN4/6 after I have driven  it a 
> little. After warming it up, I take it up on the freeway a mile or  two, turn 
> around and bring it home. After that, every fourth  or fifth sound out of the 
> tail pipe is a "puffing" sound. Interestingly, the  idle is still smooth (no 
> obvious missing). The only way you can tell there is a  problem is listening to 
> the tail pipe.  BTW - when idling and warming up in  the garage there is a 
> steady staccato sound from the tail pipe. 
>  
> I'm rather puzzled. I replaced the plugs/cap/rotor/wires and set the  timing 
> around 15 BTDC. I looked under the hood at night (in the dark) to see if  
> there was any shorting and didn't see anything. There doesn't seem to be the  same 
> problem with the rotor rubbing on the cap that I had before. By the way, I  
> have electronic ignition.
>  
> I'm wondering if it could be something like a bad coil or something that  
> fails once it has warmed up.
>  
> Thank you all,
>  
> Phil
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  3 17:05:32 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:05:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go .... Bingo !!!
Message-ID: <880210.25446.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Listers,

To avoid overkill here, last update on the tire/wheel sizes thing - I hung the
5 inch rims and 185x15 tires on the hubs today - they look GREAT - just the
right amount of wheel well filling, and the extra half inch of rim width
brings the outside edge out just enough to provide a superior visual of the
tire in the wheel well.  No apparent rubbing.

I am pleased with my combo choice.  On car pics in a few days for anyone
interested - after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating - email
me at rnb at ix.netcom.com

ps - remember that I am not entering concours, and have lowered the rear of my
Mk3 Ph2 car about 2 inches to appear like a 100-6/3000 MkI in terms of rear
wheel centricity within the fender arch. Overall an ideal results in my book.
But that a blond vs brunette thing ....

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Fri, 8/1/08, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> Subject: BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go....
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Paul Schwartz" <lucashly at comcast.net>
> Date: Friday, August 1, 2008, 10:08 PM
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday the new dayton 15x5 wheels arrived from
> Martin/CT.  The 185x15 Veredestein tires were alread here
> from BWW.  Today I had them mounted an balanced at local
> chain tire store.  No problems so far.
>
> On the age old subject of size(s) I would report that I am
> happy with the 5 inch rim width combined with the 185
> profile. Glad I did not go for the 185/70 profile.
>
> The std profile 'look' is good - not too fat, and
> not too thin.  I will put them on the car on Sunday, and
> expect that they will fill the wheel well just fine with the
> 26.25 diameter and the 5 inch rim/185 tire.
>
> I can recommend Martin in CT - he was very helpful and
> responsive as a source for daytons - at a good price. BWW
> was ex stock on tires.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>    

From fandy at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  3 17:37:09 2008
From: fandy at sbcglobal.net (fred anderson)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 18:37:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke Knob
Message-ID: <004401c8f5c1$d97bed90$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>

Hi all
Does any one know if the choke knob can be removed from the choke cable? I am
having trouble getting choke knob off.Fred
BJ7
BJ8

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Aug  3 19:03:05 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 19:03:05 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go .... Bingo !!!
In-Reply-To: <880210.25446.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEEKMCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating >>

Hopefully you will grow old and have to sell the car instead of EVER doing a
full ground-up, Robert!!!  Because THAT would HAUNT you AND make you say
something like (in retrospect) "What the He}} did I do this for??"
when it requires REMOVAL!!!

I sure CUSSED & VERY LOUDLY when I 'de-undercoated' my car and had I been
able to get a hold of the VERY DPO, the result would be that I either would
dead or in prison with no chance of parole!!!!<G>

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  3 18:29:53 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:29:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
References: <001d01c8f514$eb21a1a0$4825e046@markl946cfrd7q>
	<009501c8f572$cc9801d0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <009e01c8f5c9$37d385e0$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Rich,  I have a bad case of Healey confusion.    My old disassembly pics 
show one of the  old plates still attached to the inner fender well on the 
car, after removing the fender.  What is the order in which this plate goes 
on.    Does the small  1/8 th inch screw come from the inside of the car, 
through the fender and then into the plate?

Thanks a bunch,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question


> The tapped steel plate is about 1" x 3" and therefore will pull the inner 
> flange tightly closed against the body, spreading the load evenly and 
> keeping the flange flat. This is a critical and more difficult area to 
> obtain a nice closed seam, and the plate will allow that to happen.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 10:59 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
>
>
>>I am installing my fenders for an alignment check before painting.   Why 
>>is
>> there a tapped plate used at the top of each rear fender rather than a 
>> j-clip
>> and screw
>> like the other holes.     My original tapped plate was extremely corroded 
>> and
>> I really don't see a serious need to use a plate as opposed to a j-clip 
>> and
>> screw
>> or even a screw and nut.
>>
>> What was the reason for these tapped plates?
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug  3 18:43:52 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:43:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OK,   ED
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEEKMCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <00b701c8f5cb$2b6f2690$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>

OK  Mr. Ed,  so what is your optionary suggestion to the scenario at hand. 
(Sorry
I am terrible at  Edbonics as you can see)

Paint?  or just the natural patina look?

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go .... Bingo !!!


> <<after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating >>
>
> Hopefully you will grow old and have to sell the car instead of EVER doing 
> a
> full ground-up, Robert!!!  Because THAT would HAUNT you AND make you say
> something like (in retrospect) "What the He}} did I do this for??"
> when it requires REMOVAL!!!
>
> I sure CUSSED & VERY LOUDLY when I 'de-undercoated' my car and had I been
> able to get a hold of the VERY DPO, the result would be that I either 
> would
> dead or in prison with no chance of parole!!!!<G>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 18:45:14 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:45:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Mo Ma email
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808031745m2080cfbfj9154b2d1b4ad6a78@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have an updated email address for Margaret Lucas?
*
Momanm*@aol.com does not work anymore.*
*
Thanks,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Aug  3 18:57:54 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 17:57:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OK,   ED
In-Reply-To: <00b701c8f5cb$2b6f2690$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEEKMCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<00b701c8f5cb$2b6f2690$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <EBAD7DDD-E740-49DC-AF2A-232D7B655725@cox.net>

I may be able to translate.

There should be NO BLACK UNDERCOATING at all. It is not original,  
traps moisture causing rust, hides a multitude of sins, and is  
expensive/time consuming to remove.

On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:43 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:

> OK  Mr. Ed,  so what is your optionary suggestion to the scenario at  
> hand.
> (Sorry
> I am terrible at  Edbonics as you can see)
>
> Paint?  or just the natural patina look?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go ....  
> Bingo !!!
>
>
>> <<after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating >>
>>
>> Hopefully you will grow old and have to sell the car instead of  
>> EVER doing
>> a
>> full ground-up, Robert!!!  Because THAT would HAUNT you AND make  
>> you say
>> something like (in retrospect) "What the He}} did I do this for??"
>> when it requires REMOVAL!!!
>>
>> I sure CUSSED & VERY LOUDLY when I 'de-undercoated' my car and had  
>> I been
>> able to get a hold of the VERY DPO, the result would be that I either
>> would
>> dead or in prison with no chance of parole!!!!<G>

From nickzarkades at comcast.net  Sun Aug  3 19:18:49 2008
From: nickzarkades at comcast.net (nickzarkades at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 01:18:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] jacking Points On Bugeye
Message-ID: <080420080118.1422.489658F900061CB00000058E22147564029C0A0B0E059D0E96050C0702@comcast.net>

Can some one tell me were the jacking points are on a '59 Bugeye? Want to take 
tires off to check brakes.

Thanks
Nick Zarkades
66bj8

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  3 19:19:13 2008
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 18:19:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mo Ma email
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808031745m2080cfbfj9154b2d1b4ad6a78@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0808031745m2080cfbfj9154b2d1b4ad6a78@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W32A36108CEE7CF8E3258FADB780@phx.gbl>

Hi Alan,
  I just had my speedo done by her. Her email is: momanm at qwestoffice.net

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7> Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:45:14 +0800> From: healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Mo Ma email> > Does anyone have
an updated email address for Margaret Lucas?> *> Momanm*@aol.com does not work
anymore.*> *> Thanks,> > Alan> > '52 A90> '53 BN1> '64 BJ8>
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
jobu53 at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive
_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever you are.  Start here.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home_082008

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug  3 19:13:20 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 21:13:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
References: <001d01c8f514$eb21a1a0$4825e046@markl946cfrd7q>
	<009501c8f572$cc9801d0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
	<009e01c8f5c9$37d385e0$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <008201c8f5cf$48ad2000$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

Mark,

The tapped plate can be clearly seen in the Anderson/Moment book, upper left 
picture on page 92. It is fastened through the forward most hole by a 1/4"NF 
x 5/8" flat head Phillips screw, the head being inside the cockpit (lying 
flush) and the shank coming out through the body metal, the shroud flange, 
the fender flange and into the 1/4" NF tapped plate. When the screw is 
tightened from the inside (before the cockit moulding is fitted) it draws 
all these layers tightly together.

Rich

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question


> Rich,  I have a bad case of Healey confusion.    My old disassembly pics 
> show one of the  old plates still attached to the inner fender well on the 
> car, after removing the fender.  What is the order in which this plate 
> goes on.    Does the small  1/8 th inch screw come from the inside of the 
> car, through the fender and then into the plate?
>
> Thanks a bunch,   Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
>
>
>> The tapped steel plate is about 1" x 3" and therefore will pull the inner 
>> flange tightly closed against the body, spreading the load evenly and 
>> keeping the flange flat. This is a critical and more difficult area to 
>> obtain a nice closed seam, and the plate will allow that to happen.
>>
>> Rich Chrysler
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
>> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 10:59 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
>>
>>
>>>I am installing my fenders for an alignment check before painting.   Why 
>>>is
>>> there a tapped plate used at the top of each rear fender rather than a 
>>> j-clip
>>> and screw
>>> like the other holes.     My original tapped plate was extremely 
>>> corroded and
>>> I really don't see a serious need to use a plate as opposed to a j-clip 
>>> and
>>> screw
>>> or even a screw and nut.
>>>
>>> What was the reason for these tapped plates?
>>>
>>> Mark
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug  3 19:26:01 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 21:26:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OK,   ED
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEEKMCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>
	<00b701c8f5cb$2b6f2690$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <009201c8f5d1$0e389ba0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

Though I couldn't say it as colourfully as our pal Ed, I must agree with his 
intent.

Undercoating on a driven Healey is not good news. Your intention is to 
protect and preserve the metal, but it's been proven to usually do just the 
opposite over time. Moisture will get in under the undercoating and being 
trapped there, will eat away at the metal, with eventual rusting.
I am currently involved in the restoration of a low mileage BN1 that had 
undercoating applied and been put into storage long ago. The eventual result 
has been pin holes and thin metal in many places inside the fender surfaces 
where, if left with just a bare surface would have been able to dry 
thoroughly 50 years ago and still been solid today.
My answer is to apply quality smooth clean paint surface everywhere that 
when it gets wet, will simply bead up and dry. If you get into tar 
splatters, it will easily clean off with solvents once you get home. Todays 
paints will withstand driving conditions and will not usually be blasted off 
by road dirt if that's what the owner is concerned about.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>; "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:43 PM
Subject: [Healeys] OK, ED


> OK  Mr. Ed,  so what is your optionary suggestion to the scenario at hand.
> (Sorry
> I am terrible at  Edbonics as you can see)
>
> Paint?  or just the natural patina look?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go .... Bingo 
> !!!
>
>
>> <<after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating >>
>>
>> Hopefully you will grow old and have to sell the car instead of EVER 
>> doing
>> a
>> full ground-up, Robert!!!  Because THAT would HAUNT you AND make you say
>> something like (in retrospect) "What the He}} did I do this for??"
>> when it requires REMOVAL!!!
>>
>> I sure CUSSED & VERY LOUDLY when I 'de-undercoated' my car and had I been
>> able to get a hold of the VERY DPO, the result would be that I either
>> would
>> dead or in prison with no chance of parole!!!!<G>

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Aug  3 20:54:09 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:54:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Mo Ma email
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808031745m2080cfbfj9154b2d1b4ad6a78@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNAELDCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Typo in YOUR addy for Margaret, Alan.

<<Momanm*@aol.com does not work anymore.*>>

I am almost positive there is no 'n ' in it.  (Actually on a diff 'puter).

Just google mo-ma manufacturing.  IIRC, top of first page<G>!!

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Aug  3 21:20:38 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 21:20:38 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] OK,   ED
In-Reply-To: <00b701c8f5cb$2b6f2690$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELDCIAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<(Sorry I am terrible at  Edbonics as you can see)>>

Guess I have known Mr. Chrysler TOOOOO long Mark, as he 'detailed' my
comment PERFECTLY!!!!

Ask him WHAT he drove from Ontario to Conclave '88 - Shangri La, OK.

<VBG>!!!	And the car was NOT 'finished', AIRC<G>!!

It's the very SAME thing as a "Concours" car.  Restored to "...as built/left
the factory...", NOT a Pebble Beach 'vehicle', right Rich???

If you do one once, you CAN do it again except WAY easier!!!

Ed(bonics<VBG)!!

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Aug  3 20:50:30 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 22:50:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OK,   ED
Message-ID: <20080804025030.SXKS29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Unless the stuff is Schultz material.  That stuff is so hard and solid nothing gets under it.
> 
> From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" <e-wilkins at cox.net>
> Date: 2008/08/03 Sun PM 08:57:54 EDT
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] OK,   ED
> 
> I may be able to translate.
> 
> There should be NO BLACK UNDERCOATING at all. It is not original,  
> traps moisture causing rust, hides a multitude of sins, and is  
> expensive/time consuming to remove.
> 
> On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:43 PM, Mark LaPierre wrote:
> 
> > OK  Mr. Ed,  so what is your optionary suggestion to the scenario at  
> > hand.
> > (Sorry
> > I am terrible at  Edbonics as you can see)
> >
> > Paint?  or just the natural patina look?
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - new wheels & tires - ready to go ....  
> > Bingo !!!
> >
> >
> >> <<after I have finished the wheel well black undercoating >>
> >>
> >> Hopefully you will grow old and have to sell the car instead of  
> >> EVER doing
> >> a
> >> full ground-up, Robert!!!  Because THAT would HAUNT you AND make  
> >> you say
> >> something like (in retrospect) "What the He}} did I do this for??"
> >> when it requires REMOVAL!!!
> >>
> >> I sure CUSSED & VERY LOUDLY when I 'de-undercoated' my car and had  
> >> I been
> >> able to get a hold of the VERY DPO, the result would be that I either
> >> would
> >> dead or in prison with no chance of parole!!!!<G>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Sun Aug  3 22:23:30 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 00:23:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spark at coil
Message-ID: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>

All,
 
I pulled the plugs and checked them again (nothing exciting). I then  started 
doing a compression test and quickly noticed that the coil was getting  
extremely hot. I also noticed that there was a popping sound coming from the  
engine compartment when I turned the ignition on and off. I asked my beautiful  
assistant to turn the ignition on and off while I put my head under the hood and  
sure enough there was a spark jumping from the white wire (+) to the coil  
housing (- ground). I then had her crank the engine and a steady spark jumped  
from the white wire to the coil. I taped up the wires, but now I'm getting a  
spark on the negative post of the coil. It's not jumping to anything, just a  
spark up and down the post. Any ideas? Could this be a short in the  coil?
 
Thanks,
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 22:39:39 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:39:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Spark at coil
In-Reply-To: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>
References: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808032139j3129c6e7qad2ed72c08b2298c@mail.gmail.com>

Phil -

Yes, of course replace the coil if this is what is happening.  Coils are
cheap and you can get them at your local car parts place.  No need for a
high power coil - a regular old fashioned non-ballasted coil should do the
trick.

I might also suggest you need to check the ground straps which go from the
engine to the chassis - it sounds to me like your engine is not properly
grounded.  Remove the connections and reconnect them to make sure they are
properly attached.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 12:23 PM, <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

>  All,
>
> I pulled the plugs and checked them again (nothing exciting). I then
> started doing a compression test and quickly noticed that the coil was
> getting extremely hot. I also noticed that there was a popping sound coming
> from the engine compartment when I turned the ignition on and off. I asked
> my beautiful assistant to turn the ignition on and off while I put my head
> under the hood and sure enough there was a spark jumping from the white wire
> (+) to the coil housing (- ground). I then had her crank the engine and a
> steady spark jumped from the white wire to the coil. I taped up the wires,
> but now I'm getting a spark on the negative post of the coil. It's not
> jumping to anything, just a spark up and down the post. Any ideas? Could
> this be a short in the coil?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews
> on AOL Autos<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017>
> .

From dpaye at crocker.com  Mon Aug  4 05:55:47 2008
From: dpaye at crocker.com (Donald Paye)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 07:55:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tiger For Sale
Message-ID: <54CE9EC0D56C44C3ACA129207385DFD2@DonaldPayePC>

Fresh out inside storage since 1979 - 1966 Sunbeam Tiger MK1A with 64K miles,
very original with no rust anywhere, minor damage to both front fenders and
lower valance panel (replacements available) all other body panels in
excellent original coniditon including all floors and trunk, under the hood
all items in original location including hoses and clamps, motor turns but has
not been started, still has original steel rims and hubcaps, interior in fair
condition with excellent wood dash, seats need recovering with correct panels,
all frame and understructure in solid - unalrtered condition, good springs and
front suspension. 260Ford V8, this car is one of 7085 Tigers produced. I am
reluctantly selling this car as two Healeys and my Tiger keep me busy enough
and eat up any extra cash!!!! If this was a Healey you would die to have it.
Contact me off line at 413-625-6568 or at dpaye at crocker.com  Car is in western
Mass. Don Paye

From kilo2mit at gmail.com  Mon Aug  4 07:20:06 2008
From: kilo2mit at gmail.com (Jeffrey A. Steinberg)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 09:20:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks, list (was heater valve)
Message-ID: <60F2E912-A8F2-4D0B-9B60-03585D989A0D@gmail.com>

Sealing up the 4 little holes did the trick.  Its much cooler (not  
cold) in the cockpit now that I could even envision driving it with  
the top up.  I appreciate all of the advice to put the light in the  
engine bay and look for light inside the car.  It worked like a champ.


--Jeffrey

--------------------------------------------
Jeffrey A. Steinberg
37 Lawrence Road
Scarsdale, NY 10583

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 07:40:56 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 09:40:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
Message-ID: <c37.3761a862.35c860e8@aol.com>

Phil,
I would agree with the replies that say you have it tuned, but, it you want  
to experiment a little more, here is what the SU says:
 
The effect of mixture strength on exhaust:
TOO WEAK: Irregular note, splashy misfire & colourless
CORRECT: regular even note
TOO RICH: regular or rhythmical misfire, blackish
 
I would suggest that you check the mixture by performing the test  in the 
shop manual that involves carefully pushing up the "lifting Pin" on the  carb. 
The manual describes the process. I assume you have already syncronized  the 
carbs.  
 
You could also try leaning the carbs, then try richening them, to see  if 
there is any change. Keep detailed notes so you can return it to the  original 
setting. 
 
Finally, How did you set the 15 degrees timing? was it static, or at idle  
(what RPM)? Was the vacuum advance line connected to the distributor? If you  
know someone with a "dial back to zero timing light" (or you have one) it might  
be of interest to know what the timing is at Max. advance. Disconnect  the 
vacuum advance line, warm up the engine & run it up to approx.  3000-3500 RPM. 
With the timing light, check the advance by dialing the timing  mark back to 
zero & reading the degrees of advance on the timing  light.
 
Or you could leave well enough along!
Gary Hodson  
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2008 4:32:48 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
PhilRitten at aol.com writes:

All,

I am still getting a "puffing" noise from my BN4/6 after I  have driven  it a 
little. After warming it up, I take it up on the  freeway a mile or  two, 
turn 
around and bring it home. After that,  every fourth  or fifth sound out of 
the 
tail pipe is a "puffing"  sound. Interestingly, the  idle is still smooth (no 
obvious missing).  The only way you can tell there is a  problem is listening 
to 
the  tail pipe.  BTW - when idling and warming up in  the garage there is  a 
steady staccato sound from the tail pipe. 

I'm rather puzzled. I  replaced the plugs/cap/rotor/wires and set the  timing 
around 15  BTDC. I looked under the hood at night (in the dark) to see if  
there  was any shorting and didn't see anything. There doesn't seem to be the 
  same 
problem with the rotor rubbing on the cap that I had before. By the  way, I  
have electronic ignition.

I'm wondering if it could be  something like a bad coil or something that  
fails once it has warmed  up.

Thank you all,

Phil



**************Looking for  a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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7  )
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**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 08:19:27 2008
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 10:19:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Interior door panels
Message-ID: <c38.39ef05a6.35c869ef@aol.com>

I, too, will soon have to address the same problem with BJ8 doors not  
closing properly and I only have the door panels on and not the weather  strip yet.  
My car needed all new A and B pillars, outriggers,  inner and outer rockers, 
etc., so I basically had to replace everything from  the center frame out.  
Thus, my problem may have been self  inflicted.  If anyone can offer advice 
other than the weather stripping  solution I would be eternally grateful.  Do the 
doors and adjacent fenders  have much in the way of adjustment or will I have 
to get out the 25  lb sledge hammer?  
 
Bill   
29298 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/2/2008 6:37:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
flyhihealey at hotmail.com writes:

Roland  wrote;> "I haven't had experience with BJ8 door panels but the  
general
rule> with new stuff that fits near or around door openings is  that you have>
to compress them to get them to fit. So it takes a lot of  extra> effort to
close the doors/hoods/rear decks on new stuff the  first> time. If/when you 
get
the doors closed, _leave_ them shut for  at> least 24 hours to allow the new
stuff to take a set that will fit.  It> won't be quite as hard the second 
time,
etc. but may be several  weeks> before they close the way you would like them
to. > > Of  course HS's panels may be way too thick. I would suggest  perhaps>
contacting them and asking for suggestions."Thanks,
I  contacted Healey Surgeons  and Inan replied;

"In our experience,  it has been the problem with the weather stripping rather
than the door  panel.  We have changed the weather stripping to the 
bristleflex
which  has a smaller and softer rubber gasket.  I have also heard people  talk
about slicing the rubber gasket so that instead of bunching up the  rubber 
will
collapse and lay on top of itself."

Inan

The work  continues: Replace vent window rubber(done),interior door panels,
aluminum  door finishers, carpeting(outsource), new dash when I get my next
stimulus  check!? Work in progress since 1967. Easier now with the great folks
on the  Healey list!

WD    67  BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Got  Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games  Trivia
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**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Mon Aug  4 09:08:28 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 01:08:28 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Serious Warning
Message-ID: <48971B6C.3050401@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

Pat Quinn has escaped from Australia and is scheduled to invade the USA. 
He may be seen at the historic races at Laguna Seca. Look for him where 
you see Vintage Race Car Journal signs.
Dont worry about Healeys in Australia as I have taken over, but there 
will be none of that Quinn style funny business while I am in charge.
Joe

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Mon Aug  4 09:44:35 2008
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:44:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change
References: <008601c8f4d0$4438fee0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <00f101c8f648$fefc6090$021919ac@valued28addca9>

Thanks to all who made suggestions. Obviously, I made this harder than I had 
too. I'm going to immediately take the assembly apart so that I can actually 
see what I am doing. Keith sent me a great pic of a spin on adapter that 
looks really promising.

Bob Johnson
BJ8 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  4 09:57:45 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 08:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spark at coil
In-Reply-To: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>
References: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A28647E1-6A8B-49AD-B917-CCC9A6D4F298@sbcglobal.net>

If you have the plug wires off the is common. Because when you are  
cranking the engine over the ignition system is working and the coil  
is producing a spark just like in should, since the coil wire or cap  
is off the spark must go somewhere and the closest place is to jump  
to the ground side of the coil terminal. So installing a new coil  
will not change anything.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 3, 2008, at 9:23 PM, PhilRitten at aol.com wrote:

> All,
>
> I pulled the plugs and checked them again (nothing exciting). I  
> then  started
> doing a compression test and quickly noticed that the coil was getting
> extremely hot. I also noticed that there was a popping sound coming  
> from the
> engine compartment when I turned the ignition on and off. I asked  
> my beautiful
> assistant to turn the ignition on and off while I put my head under  
> the hood and
> sure enough there was a spark jumping from the white wire (+) to  
> the coil
> housing (- ground). I then had her crank the engine and a steady  
> spark jumped
> from the white wire to the coil. I taped up the wires, but now I'm  
> getting a
> spark on the negative post of the coil. It's not jumping to  
> anything, just a
> spark up and down the post. Any ideas? Could this be a short in  
> the  coil?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your  
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review? 
> ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Aug  4 11:05:34 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 10:05:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Serious Warning
In-Reply-To: <48971B6C.3050401@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <20080804130534.XH711.3978.root@mp20>

Make sure Pat does not visit the Team DIB's Racing campsite number 115 where he would just end up staggering away full of Ale and Whaler's Rum.  Also avoid the pits of the venerable DIB's Racing #5 red MGA piloted by Gary "Mirror Filler" Anderson and crewed by Crewchief Tracy "Busted Knuckles" Drummond, Head Mechanic Brian "I don't need no Stinkin' Armstrong Shock Oil" Blivens and Sergio " Home Cookin"" Rosas.

See you at the Historics.   By the way the Pre-Historics are this weekend....

Go Lewis (or well Heike) !!

---- Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote: 
> Pat Quinn has escaped from Australia and is scheduled to invade the USA. 
> He may be seen at the historic races at Laguna Seca. Look for him where 
> you see Vintage Race Car Journal signs.
> Dont worry about Healeys in Australia as I have taken over, but there 
> will be none of that Quinn style funny business while I am in charge.
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Mon Aug  4 11:12:26 2008
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 10:12:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Serious Warning
In-Reply-To: <48971B6C.3050401@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
References: <48971B6C.3050401@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <4897387A.7080402@pacbell.net>

What, you mean no more Hoo Roo?!

Bill

Joe and Lenore Armour wrote:
> Pat Quinn has escaped from Australia and is scheduled to invade the USA. 
> He may be seen at the historic races at Laguna Seca. Look for him where 
> you see Vintage Race Car Journal signs.
> Dont worry about Healeys in Australia as I have taken over, but there 
> will be none of that Quinn style funny business while I am in charge.
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bn1 at pacbell.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From philritten at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 12:23:20 2008
From: philritten at aol.com (Philip Rittenhouse)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:23:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spark at coil
In-Reply-To: <A28647E1-6A8B-49AD-B917-CCC9A6D4F298@sbcglobal.net>
References: <d1e.2db79e1b.35c7de42@aol.com>
	<A28647E1-6A8B-49AD-B917-CCC9A6D4F298@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <EAC40635-039B-4F5D-B5C4-C08A610B20E2@aol.com>

Thanks David, that makes sense as it wasn't doing it before.

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 4, 2008, at 8:57 AM, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> If you have the plug wires off the is common. Because when you are
> cranking the engine over the ignition system is working and the coil
> is producing a spark just like in should, since the coil wire or cap
> is off the spark must go somewhere and the closest place is to jump
> to the ground side of the coil terminal. So installing a new coil
> will not change anything.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Aug 3, 2008, at 9:23 PM, PhilRitten at aol.com wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I pulled the plugs and checked them again (nothing exciting). I
>> then  started
>> doing a compression test and quickly noticed that the coil was  
>> getting
>> extremely hot. I also noticed that there was a popping sound coming
>> from the
>> engine compartment when I turned the ignition on and off. I asked
>> my beautiful
>> assistant to turn the ignition on and off while I put my head under
>> the hood and
>> sure enough there was a spark jumping from the white wire (+) to
>> the coil
>> housing (- ground). I then had her crank the engine and a steady
>> spark jumped
>> from the white wire to the coil. I taped up the wires, but now I'm
>> getting a
>> spark on the negative post of the coil. It's not jumping to
>> anything, just a
>> spark up and down the post. Any ideas? Could this be a short in
>> the  coil?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
>> budget?
>> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?
>> ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as philritten at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From philritten at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 12:39:43 2008
From: philritten at aol.com (Philip Rittenhouse)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 11:39:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shipping
Message-ID: <0898D5EE-472D-4569-8294-2016AE90BC94@aol.com>

Does anyone have a suggestion for a good, reasonably priced shipping  
company to ship a 120 pound pallet from Indiana to Southern California?

Thanks,

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 12:42:10 2008
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:42:10 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
Message-ID: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>

I just posted some videos on youtube from the Austin Healey Conclave in San  
Diego. They are mainly from the car show winners award ceremony and sorry I  
didn't get all of them. If you're interested in viewing them, just go to 
_www.youtube.com_ (http://www.youtube.com)  and search for Austin  Healey Conclave 
2008. They'll pop up and then you can view what you like.  Enjoy.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Aug  4 13:04:06 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 15:04:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Jim Sailor
Message-ID: <20080804190406.QRC29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Hi Jim.  Could you please contact me off line?

Thanks
Tom 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Aug  4 13:05:33 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 15:05:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
Message-ID: <20080804190533.EHJH13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

www.utube.com "doesn't exist".  That.s what it said.  Do you have another link?

thanks
tom 
> 
> From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
> Date: 2008/08/04 Mon PM 02:42:10 EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
> 
> I just posted some videos on youtube from the Austin Healey Conclave in San  
> Diego. They are mainly from the car show winners award ceremony and sorry I  
> didn't get all of them. If you're interested in viewing them, just go to 
> _www.youtube.com_ (http://www.youtube.com)  and search for Austin  Healey Conclave 
> 2008. They'll pop up and then you can view what you like.  Enjoy.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> 
> 
> 
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Mon Aug  4 13:50:01 2008
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 15:50:01 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
Message-ID: <c94.37243daf.35c8b769@aol.com>

sorry about that, it should be youtube.com
 
hope that helps.



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
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From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Mon Aug  4 14:12:18 2008
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6 hour oil change gets even longer
Message-ID: <005301c8f66e$657cc3d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

So 2 of you said that I needed to get things out of the car so that I could
see what I was doing. I agree totally that made sooo much sense. So, off I go
to do just that. Pull on the bolts, boy are they tight. Pull a little harder,
first one breaks loose. Good. Pull on the second one, it comes loose, too. Ok,
we making progress now. Start ratcheting away and the bolt is getting looser,
coming right out. Back to the first bolt. It's turning, but not getting
looser, maybe it's just binding a bit, keep turning. OK, back to the other
one... wait, the bolt is turning, but hasn't started backing out! What gives?
Damn, I've broken the bolt. OK, take out the loose one, I should still be able
to get everything out, and then I'll address the broken bolt issue. Hmmm, it
won't come out, but the bracket will swivel around a bit. Oh, nooo! I haven't
broken the bolt, I've stripped the piece that the bolt is into, the bracket
coming from the block, but not badly enough to get the bolt out yet. You know?
I think I'll just go ahead and get the spin on thing going. Keith Pennell sent
me a pic of just what I want. Hey Keith, where did you get that?


Bob Johnson
BJ8

From davzu29 at cox.net  Mon Aug  4 14:12:26 2008
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:12:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
References: <20080804190533.EHJH13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8f66e$6a2abb80$6701a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

It's www.youtube.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave videos


> www.utube.com "doesn't exist".  That.s what it said.  Do you have another 
> link?
>
> thanks
> tom
>>
>> From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
>> Date: 2008/08/04 Mon PM 02:42:10 EDT
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
>>
>> I just posted some videos on youtube from the Austin Healey Conclave in 
>> San
>> Diego. They are mainly from the car show winners award ceremony and sorry 
>> I
>> didn't get all of them. If you're interested in viewing them, just go to
>> _www.youtube.com_ (http://www.youtube.com)  and search for Austin  Healey 
>> Conclave
>> 2008. They'll pop up and then you can view what you like.  Enjoy.
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1 #598
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
>> budget?
>> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 
>>  )
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as davzu29 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Aug  4 14:44:38 2008
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:44:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
In-Reply-To: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>
References: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C1B4026C5964B69976CA63916D2C543@LeonardPC>

????  My copy of Steven's original e-mail said "...youtube...".  See below. 
????

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 11:42 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos


>. If you're interested in viewing them, just go to
> _www.youtube.com_ (http://www.youtube.com)  and search for Austin  Healey 
> Conclave
> 2008.

> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598

From ampole at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  4 15:16:36 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 21:16:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] rhd wiring loom positions
Message-ID: <BLU105-W375BA5E6F66CC4C2AA786AD5780@phx.gbl>

Guys
Does anyone have a bulkhead shot of a rhd healey, hopefully a bj8. I am after
the routing for the extra wiring loom cable that feeds the floor mounted dip
switch. I have seen different routings:
1) plug into the bullets at the bulkhead grommet and travel external across
the insulation panel dropping thru the hole just above the starter solenoid
or
2) again plug into the bullets at the bulkhead grommet and then travel back
thru the grommet to route internal next to the smiths heater.
Also is the largest flattish cable clip still in the same position (as a lhd
car) on the main loom now its not holding the main loom and dip switch cable,
or does it swap position with the clip near the regulator to now hold both.
many thanks Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Win a voice over part with Kung Fu Panda & Live Search   and   100s of Kung
Fu Panda prizes to win with Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571439/direct/01/

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Mon Aug  4 15:43:41 2008
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 14:43:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight wiring
Message-ID: <C4BCC61D.5898%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I have connected wiring to the parking (light) and headlights in my '65 BJ8
MKIII, Phase II early, and I have only one option working.  I do not know if
they are high beams or low beams, but when I hit the dim switch with my left
foot the lights go out.  Is there something I do not know about wiring the
headlights?  Parking and directionals are fine.

Michael
65 BJ8

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  4 16:07:47 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 18:07:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
References: <001d01c8f514$eb21a1a0$4825e046@markl946cfrd7q>
	<009501c8f572$cc9801d0$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
	<009e01c8f5c9$37d385e0$e936e046@markl946cfrd7q>
	<008201c8f5cf$48ad2000$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <001501c8f67e$87a3cbb0$1341e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Thanks to Rich C.  and others who chimed in on my  "tapped plate" question.
And yes,  a picture tells a thousand words, it was right there in Andersons 
book.
And a big thanks to Gary,   "what a book".

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question


> Mark,
>
> The tapped plate can be clearly seen in the Anderson/Moment book, upper 
> left picture on page 92. It is fastened through the forward most hole by a 
> 1/4"NF x 5/8" flat head Phillips screw, the head being inside the cockpit 
> (lying flush) and the shank coming out through the body metal, the shroud 
> flange, the fender flange and into the 1/4" NF tapped plate. When the 
> screw is tightened from the inside (before the cockit moulding is fitted) 
> it draws all these layers tightly together.
>
> Rich
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
>
>
>> Rich,  I have a bad case of Healey confusion.    My old disassembly pics 
>> show one of the  old plates still attached to the inner fender well on 
>> the car, after removing the fender.  What is the order in which this 
>> plate goes on.    Does the small  1/8 th inch screw come from the inside 
>> of the car, through the fender and then into the plate?
>>
>> Thanks a bunch,   Mark
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
>> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 10:11 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender Refitting Question
>>
>>
>>> The tapped steel plate is about 1" x 3" and therefore will pull the 
>>> inner flange tightly closed against the body, spreading the load evenly 
>>> and keeping the flange flat. This is a critical and more difficult area 
>>> to obtain a nice closed seam, and the plate will allow that to happen.
>>>
>>> Rich Chrysler

From kbeck100 at rcn.com  Mon Aug  4 16:14:29 2008
From: kbeck100 at rcn.com (Ken Beck)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 18:14:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <001a01c8f67f$76ca5470$4bfc3ad0@recroom>

Gas over 1 year old can cause real problems. 8 years old could be a 
disaster. Call around to disposal businesses and find one that disposes old 
oil, antifreeze etc. Whatever you do don't put it in an engine that you care 
about. I've had about 6 of these to redo in the past few years. Sticks the 
intake valves and then the rest goes.

Ken BEck
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs at autox.team.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:51 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas


> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB 
> that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the 
> engine
> and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
> should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored 
> outside
> during this period.
>
> Ron
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug  4 18:46:24 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 17:46:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] healey meet 1997 placemats
Message-ID: <585132.26067.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

We supplied the dinner place mats at Bonneville Healey International Meet August 10-15, 1997. The place mat was 11" by 17 " and under each table setting at the awards dinner, it has over 30 drawings of Healey related items

If there is an interest in this, we will put it on our website as a download, you could then have it laminated if you wanted.

 Please let me know if you are interested.

 
Norman Nock

                             British Car Specialists

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Aug  4 18:53:38 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 08:53:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004501c8260d$02196c30$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808041753i4c2eefe2l2fcc41d57144e3@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

Living in Hong Kong I drive my car in California (the BN1) only sporadically
(usually 6 months between runs).  I do make a point to use gas preservative
so that probably helps, but my feeling is that gas that is one year's old
should be ok.  The biggest problem is when you get really old gas that
leaves a coat of varnish on the fuel lines, pump and carbies, but my
experience is that doesn't become a real problem unless the gas sits longer
than a couple of years.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Nov 13, 2007 at 11:51 PM, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:

> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the
> engine
> and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
> should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored outside
> during this period.
>
> Ron
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB

From donyarber at earthlink.net  Mon Aug  4 20:51:31 2008
From: donyarber at earthlink.net (Don Yarber)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 21:51:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pat leaving Australia?
Message-ID: <001601c8f6a6$2ba0ed70$6056e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>

Blimey, is he bringing the crocks with him?  I'm talking about the crocks he
keeps the hootch in, not them four legged critters

Don, former BN7 owner, from Kentucky

Author of "Bodies and Beaches" and "Corpses and Canyons"
Find news about my books at
www.kipyardleymysteries.com

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Aug  5 06:43:50 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 05:43:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808041753i4c2eefe2l2fcc41d57144e3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <21EA1B4C35C74307A254FDE2A4937932@TRACY>

Alan,

Remove the gas, mix it half and half with new gas and use it in the old
lawnmower.

Put only the good stuff in the car.

I have about 3 gallons of the foulest 20 year old gas from my current
project.  I was amazed at just how foul old gas is.......

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 5:54 PM
To: Ron Fine
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; MG List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas

Ron -

Living in Hong Kong I drive my car in California (the BN1) only sporadically
(usually 6 months between runs).  I do make a point to use gas preservative
so that probably helps, but my feeling is that gas that is one year's old
should be ok.  The biggest problem is when you get really old gas that
leaves a coat of varnish on the fuel lines, pump and carbies, but my
experience is that doesn't become a real problem unless the gas sits longer
than a couple of years.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Nov 13, 2007 at 11:51 PM, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:

> When is gas too old to use?  I have about half a tank of gas in my MGB
that
> has been sitting for about 1 year.  I am finishing the rebuild of the
> engine
> and plan to fire it up later this month.  Should I dump the gas first or
> should it be OK.  I live in Los Angeles and the car has been stored
outside
> during this period.
>
> Ron
> 61 BN7
> 66 MGB
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Aug  5 06:45:05 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 05:45:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shipping
In-Reply-To: <0898D5EE-472D-4569-8294-2016AE90BC94@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D09D0673EF454F539B572E789AC57B03@TRACY>

Greyhound bus services.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Philip Rittenhouse
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 11:40 AM
To: Healey List Emails
Subject: [Healeys] Shipping

Does anyone have a suggestion for a good, reasonably priced shipping  
company to ship a 120 pound pallet from Indiana to Southern California?

Thanks,

Phil

Sent from my iPhone
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Tue Aug  5 08:38:01 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 10:38:01 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Shipping
Message-ID: <c20.41e253e1.35c9bfc9@aol.com>

Has anyone heard of Estes Express line? Apparently they are recommended by  
Ebay.
 
Thanks,
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
Return-Path: <jhomonek at mindspring.com>
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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: John H <jhomonek at mindspring.com>
Reply-To: John H <bn7 at mindspring.com>
To: Philip Rittenhouse <philritten at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shipping
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Try FedEx Freight or UPS...they move pallets around all over

John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA

-----Original Message-----
>From: Philip Rittenhouse <philritten at aol.com>
>Sent: Aug 4, 2008 2:39 PM
>To: Healey List Emails <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Shipping
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion for a good, reasonably priced shipping  
>company to ship a 120 pound pallet from Indiana to Southern California?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Phil
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as jhomonek at mindspring.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Tue Aug  5 08:46:09 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 10:46:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Shipping
In-Reply-To: <c20.41e253e1.35c9bfc9@aol.com>
References: <c20.41e253e1.35c9bfc9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002001c8f709$ffdfea10$ff9fbe30$@net>

Their web site is:

http://www.estes-express.com/



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
PhilRitten at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 10:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Shipping

Has anyone heard of Estes Express line? Apparently they are recommended by  
Ebay.
 
Thanks,
Phil

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Tue Aug  5 08:48:35 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 10:48:35 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Shipping
Message-ID: <c50.34d4fb39.35c9c243@aol.com>

Have you had any personal experience with them?
 
Thanks



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From pieterscheen at optusnet.com.au  Tue Aug  5 10:35:51 2008
From: pieterscheen at optusnet.com.au (pieter scheenhouwer)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 16:35:51 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] friday funny: 2000 year old measurement...
Message-ID: <200807102226.m6AMQc5V013017@mail08.syd.optusnet.com.au>

   Be sure to read the final paragraph, but your understanding of it  
will depend on the earlier part of the content. This is amazing and  
very funny. . . .


The US standard railroad gauge (distance between the rails) is 4 feet,
8.5 inches. That's an exceedingly odd number.


Why was that gauge used? Because that's the way they built them in  
England , and English expatriates built the US railroads



Why did the English build them like that? Because the first rail lines  
were built by the same people who built the pre-railroad tramways, and  
that's the gauge they used.


Why did 'they' use that gauge then? Because the people who built the  
tramways used the same jigs and tools that they used for building  
wagons, which used that wheel spacing.


Why did the wagons have that particular odd wheel spacing? Well, if  
they tried to use any other spacing, the wagon wheels would break on  
some of the old, long distance roads in England, because that's the  
spacing of the wheel ruts.


So who built those old rutted roads? Imperial Rome built the first  
long distance roads in Europe (and England ) for their legions. The  
roads have been used ever since.


And the ruts in the roads? Roman war chariots formed the initial ruts,  
which everyone else had to match for fear of destroying their wagon  
wheels. Since the chariots were made for Imperial Rome , they were all  
alike in the matter of wheel spacing. Therefore the United States  
standard railroad gauge of 4 feet, 8.5 inches is derived from the  
original specifications for an Imperial Roman war chariot.  
Bureaucracies live forever.


So the next time you are handed a Specification/ Procedure/ Process  
and wonder 'What horse's ass came up with it?' you may be exactly right.


Imperial Roman army chariots were made just wide enough to accommodate  
the rear ends of two war horses. (Two horses' asses.) Now, the twist  
to the story:



When you see a Space Shuttle sitting on its launch pad, there are two  
big booster rockets attached to the sides of the main fuel tank. These  
are solid rocket boosters, or SRBs. The SRBs are made by Thiokol at  
their factory in Utah The engineers who designed the SRBs would have  
preferred to make them a bit fatter, but the SRBs had to be shipped by  
train from the factory to the launch site. The railroad line from the  
factory happens to run through a tunnel in the mountains, and the SRBs  
had to fit through that tunnel. The tunnel is slightly wider than the  
railroad track, and the railroad track, as you now know, is about as  
wide as two horses' behinds.



So, a major Space Shuttle design feature of what is arguably the  
world's most advanced transportation system was determined over two  
thousand years ago by the width of a horse's ass.



And you thought being a horse's ass wasn't important? Ancient horse's  
asses control almost everything...and CURRENT Horses Asses are  
controlling everything else!!

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Aug  5 16:15:10 2008
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 18:15:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight wiring
In-Reply-To: <C4BCC61D.5898%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C4BCC61D.5898%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY130-W48CB2581F77D218576CEA3C87B0@phx.gbl>

Michael,

Make sure that you have the blue with red stripe and the blue with white
stripe wires connected to your headlamp harnesses properly.  These wires come
from the dip switch.  There is a blue wire from the dash light switch to the
dip switch.  If you are getting any light to your headlights then this blue
wire is attached.  The blue with white stripe wire is the high beam wire, blue
with red stripe the low beam.  To check the headlight just switch the wires
around on the connector at the headlamp harness so the other beam will be
powered.  If you then get light when you hit the dip switch once but not twice
then your dip switch is bad and your headlight is good. If you don't get light
at all when you hit the dip switch after you change the wiring around then
your headlight is bad.  I'm thinking that your dip switch is bad since neither
light comes on when you hit the dip switch.  That is, as long as both
headlights are wired the same way.  If one light is wired correctly and the
other incorrectly then it is possible that you have one high beam out and the
other low beam out and when you hit the dip switch then no light works.  Check
your wires well and check each bullet connector for good contact.  Also make
sure you have the black (ground) wire well connected.

I think this will help.  Others please chime in if I am sending him down a
slippery slope--we don't want to let the smoke out.

George Haywood
'65 bj8-early (finally broken in after a coast to coast drive to Conclave 08)



> Subject: [Healeys] Headlight wiring
>
> I have connected wiring to the parking (light) and headlights in my '65 BJ8
> MKIII, Phase II early, and I have only one option working. I do not know if
> they are high beams or low beams, but when I hit the dim switch with my
left
> foot the lights go out. Is there something I do not know about wiring the
> headlights? Parking and directionals are fine.
>
> Michael
> 65 BJ8
>
_________________________________________________________________
Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WLY
IA_whichathlete_us

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Aug  5 16:21:26 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 15:21:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight wiring
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W48CB2581F77D218576CEA3C87B0@phx.gbl>
References: <C4BCC61D.5898%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<BAY130-W48CB2581F77D218576CEA3C87B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D904F07@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Speaking of working with bullet connectors, what is a good tool to take
the wired bullet out? Sometimes I can only pull on the wire and then the
insulation pulls back.
I have seen special pliers to install the bullets but not remove them.
I love new tools.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Aug  5 17:51:59 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 23:51:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight wiring
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W48CB2581F77D218576CEA3C87B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY101-F3553EAB85AAC19EA8FEF23A57B0@phx.gbl>

Michael,

It sounds to me like you need to make sure the blue (power) wire is attached 
to the correct terminal on the dip switch. If you have it attached to one of 
the output terminals (meaning one of the output wires will be attached to 
the input terminal) you will have continuity on only one circuit. when you 
activate the switch the power wire will be isolated from the other output 
wire.

If you look at the bottom of the switch it will appear that one of the 
terminals is between the other two. That is where the blue wire goes. the 
other wires can go on either of the other two terminals. One of the two will 
have continuity all the time and it will change when you activate the 
switch.

Bill Lawrence

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Tue Aug  5 20:12:28 2008
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 20:12:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] UK Events?
References: <BAY101-F3553EAB85AAC19EA8FEF23A57B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003001c8f769$e217daa0$a7a2e404@RUDEDOG>

Anything going on across the pond?

Say, 8-18 August?

Thanks,

JR

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue Aug  5 22:48:57 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 21:48:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] going to the Quail
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808052148g39555506j461ce6815b536174@mail.gmail.com>

Since we had a small problem with the E type AND the Nash Healey
(don't ask) it looks like we will be going to the Quail rally on
Monday with the 1965 Austin Healey.

We will be arriving at the Quail Lodge Monday night and driving around
the Carmel area on Tuesday and Wednesday. We are staying at the Quail
and we will be at the "Gathering" at the Quail on Friday, so look for
us. I will be the large with guy next to the great looking blond!

Photos available in the Healey!

Meet Ron. Buy a Healey!!! :)

ron rader
cell: 310.245.2200

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Tue Aug  5 23:17:16 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 22:17:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] going to the Quail
In-Reply-To: <1cci94tetfemaqidp18fjivl8aa3o0trn1@4ax.com>
References: <5caeedb50808052148g39555506j461ce6815b536174@mail.gmail.com>
	<1cci94tetfemaqidp18fjivl8aa3o0trn1@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808052217j4a2467f2jf1c9cfde52ca9f37@mail.gmail.com>

Roland:
no one said i was smart!
it has only been reliable for 9 consecutive years .
you never know about tomorrow.

the Nash Healey really keeps me on my toes, but it too shall be conquered!!
ron

On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 10:08 PM, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> That's it, Ron.  Sell your reliable car and keep the ones that leave
> you walking ;-)
>
> -Roland

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Aug  6 07:38:48 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 14:38:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-Carb choke cables - securing
In-Reply-To: <000401c8f107$8d574130$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
References: <000401c8f107$8d574130$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
Message-ID: <707A900873B1487F970ADA296AB7DD3C@company92305fb>

-----Original Message-----

The choke cables on my '62 Tri-carb have been messed-about by prior owners,
and will not stay seated in the brass mounting on the carburetors OR in the
lever barrel at the upper ends........ I would still have the
upper ends to deal with.



Thanks in advance,



Al Fuller

Hi, I've swapped carbs in my tricarb so can't recall the exact setup at the
carb connections but I've found that good bike or motorbike shops sell a
wealth of cables and cable thingies. Have a think about what you might need
and try your local bike shop.
Simon

From bj7healey at gto.net  Wed Aug  6 08:54:58 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 10:54:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos
References: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>
Message-ID: <568635E2A49F429AAF45E87616AD2A9A@acer684c9a655d>

I  live in Ontario Canada and am trying to locate tires for my 1963 BJ7. I 
need 2 ties as the front ones are worn out. The rear are Kumho tires 
165/80R/15, can I put 195/80/15 on the front and still be safe.
                        Bob Slater

--------------------------------------------------
From: <ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:42 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave videos

> I just posted some videos on youtube from the Austin Healey Conclave in 
> San
> Diego. They are mainly from the car show winners award ceremony and sorry 
> I
> didn't get all of them. If you're interested in viewing them, just go to
> _www.youtube.com_ (http://www.youtube.com)  and search for Austin  Healey 
> Conclave
> 2008. They'll pop up and then you can view what you like.  Enjoy.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bj7healey at gto.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From bj7healey at gto.net  Wed Aug  6 09:43:50 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (bj7healey at gto.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:43:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tire wear problems
References: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>
	<568635E2A49F429AAF45E87616AD2A9A@acer684c9a655d>
	<jvej94l6gg9g9n8n19vk8fua94l7aj2rfi@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <85221EC8102E414799D40C4A298971B7@bobsus>

Thanks Roland
        The problem is both toe in and Camber. I have Offset bushings on 
order to correct the camber and I have adjusted the toe to about 3/16 inch 
( The book says 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
                   Bob Slater

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 11:03 AM
To: "Rob" <bj7healey at gto.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave videos

> Bob-
> Why not move the tires now on the rear to the front and put the larger
> ones on the rear?  Why are the front ones worn out?  If you don't know
> or haven't fixed the problem, now is a good time to do it (wrong toe
> setting, failing front shock mounts producing wrong camber or caster,
> something about the alignment?)
>
> By the way, if you were to change the subject from 'Conclave videos'
> to 'tires' you might get more responses :-)
>
> -Roland
> San Diego
>
> On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 10:54:58 -0400, you wrote:
>
> ::I  live in Ontario Canada and am trying to locate tires for my 1963 BJ7. 
> I
> ::need 2 ties as the front ones are worn out. The rear are Kumho tires
> ::165/80R/15, can I put 195/80/15 on the front and still be safe.
> ::                        Bob Slater 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Aug  6 10:01:22 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:01:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire wear problems
In-Reply-To: <85221EC8102E414799D40C4A298971B7@bobsus>
References: <c3b.3e993809.35c8a782@aol.com>
	<568635E2A49F429AAF45E87616AD2A9A@acer684c9a655d>
	<jvej94l6gg9g9n8n19vk8fua94l7aj2rfi@4ax.com>
	<85221EC8102E414799D40C4A298971B7@bobsus>
Message-ID: <001d01c8f7dd$ac64cf20$052e6d60$@rr.com>

Hi, Bob -
The toe-in spec in the book was for original bias-ply tires.  For your
radials, the toe-in should be zero.  The reason for this is:  toe-in is
intended to compensate for the tendency of the tires to toe out due to
rolling friction when the car is in motion.  Radials have less rolling
resistance than bias-ply tires.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
bj7healey at gto.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:44 AM
To: Roland Wilhelmy; List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Tire wear problems

Thanks Roland
        The problem is both toe in and Camber. I have Offset bushings on 
order to correct the camber and I have adjusted the toe to about 3/16 inch 
( The book says 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
                   Bob Slater

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug  6 11:52:19 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:52:19 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tire wear problems
In-Reply-To: <85221EC8102E414799D40C4A298971B7@bobsus>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNGEEACJAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Bob, what Steve Byers said IS 100% correct.

Ed

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Aug  6 09:01:08 2008
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:01:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Tricarb Choke Cables
References: <31F5A595-3FF6-4AF3-B6C5-C892946407CB@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <BBE68CAD-5B59-41DD-B715-C032232EDCA3@ntelos.net>

Here you go. If  the pictures don't work. let me know and I'll try  
something else.

  Dave and Daisy

Begin forwarded message:

> From: David Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>
> Date: July 30, 2008 5:21:16 PM EDT
> To: Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org>, Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net 
> >
> Cc: David Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>
> Subject: Tricarb Choke Cables
>
> Al,
> These pictures show the choke cable setup on my BN7. The main cable  
> from the dash is a standard repro.
>  I made the cables to the carbs.
>  They are all standard motorcycle throttle parts. This consists of   
> the Black Sleeving, the End Caps for the sleeving, the 1/16"  
> stranded (7X19) Cable, and the Ferrel which is soldered on to the  
> upper end of the cable.
> An older motorcycle shop will have all the parts. The newer shops  
> tend to be like Kmart ,with complete assemblies in little plastic  
> bags.
>
> Good luck
>
> Dave and Daisy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This shows the sleeving pulled back. Note the end cap. Also the  
> ferrel is just visible on the brass barrel.
>
>
>
> This shows the Ferrel which has a small cup on the large end. the  
> cable is pushed through and the cable is splayed open a bit, then  
> pulled back in to the cup and soldered.

From gvernau at containerhouse.com  Wed Aug  6 14:40:52 2008
From: gvernau at containerhouse.com (G Vernau Sr)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 15:40:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas
Message-ID: <20080806204529.9CC61187646@autox.team.net>

I've had some real problems with old gasoline, even less than 6 months old.  
Perhaps the new oxygenated gas with high percentages of ethonol absorb lots 
of moisture and make some nasty coagulations in filters and screens and carb
passages.  I use Stabil, Seafoam or similar products in everything I can't drive regularly.
Best regards, 
G Vernau Sr

From clocks at midcoast.com  Wed Aug  6 15:49:23 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:49:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
Message-ID: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>

FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs 
some help. Cheers, JL

http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=++760861


James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Aug  6 16:01:07 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:01:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
In-Reply-To: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <20080806180107.PTEIJ.100683.imail@eastrmwml37>

Looks like at least $20000.  I predict 22000.  Should be higher but everyone is edgy about car buying what with gas prices - even collectibles.

Hope they reverse the running lights and turn signals on the front before the sale.

Keith Pennell

> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs 
> some help. Cheers, JL
> 
> http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=++760861
> 
> 
> James Lea

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Aug  6 16:02:22 2008
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:02:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
In-Reply-To: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <2190256E-A589-4C8C-BF12-8A810EBBBEDE@gmail.com>

Especially with "At Skinner, the buyers premium is 18 =%".

Will probably keep bids down.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Aug 6, 2008, at 5:49 PM, James Lea wrote:

> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it
> needs
> some help. Cheers, JL
>
>
http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=+
+760861
>
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 16:14:58 2008
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:14:58 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
Message-ID: <ca3.39c4f1f3.35cb7c62@aol.com>

What is most likely the finest example of a  Healey Silverstone is now 
offered for sale by the owner. Car is located in  Louisville, KY. Of all the 
Silverstone's built (105) only 33 are known to  survive, 11 are in the U.S.
 
This car is fully restored and driven.  Ready for concours, vintage rallies 
or whatever your driving pleasure. It is the  more rare and desirable E type. 
It has a  impressive list of awards won including:
 
First in Class, Austin Healey International Meet, Lake  Tahoe
Best of Show, Austin Healey Conclave, Washington,  D.C.
Best of Class, Amelia Island Concours, Amelia Island 
 
For photos and contact information visit:
 
 
_http://www.healeysilverstone.com_ (http://www.healeysilverstone.com/) 

Thanks,
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Wed Aug  6 16:20:36 2008
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:20:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
References: <20080806180107.PTEIJ.100683.imail@eastrmwml37>
Message-ID: <001201c8f812$a7a1fcd0$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>

I like the detailed engine bay, spent at least $4.99 for the black spray 
can!! <pennell at cox.net>
To: "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>; "List Healeys" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000


> Looks like at least $20000.  I predict 22000.  Should be higher but 
> everyone is edgy about car buying what with gas prices - even 
> collectibles.
>
> Hope they reverse the running lights and turn signals on the front before 
> the sale.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs
>> some help. Cheers, JL
>>
>> http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=++760861
>>
>>
>> James Lea
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1595 - Release Date: 8/6/2008 
> 8:23 AM

From edriver at sasktel.net  Wed Aug  6 16:25:01 2008
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 16:25:01 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
In-Reply-To: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <489A24BD.3090401@sasktel.net>

Hi James

Keep us in the know!

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Historian, AHCUSA
'53 BN1  '65 BJ8 '89 Morgan 4/4

James Lea wrote:
> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs 
> some help. Cheers, JL
>
> http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=++760861
>
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From edriver at sasktel.net  Wed Aug  6 16:26:41 2008
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 16:26:41 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
In-Reply-To: <001201c8f812$a7a1fcd0$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>
References: <20080806180107.PTEIJ.100683.imail@eastrmwml37>
	<001201c8f812$a7a1fcd0$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>
Message-ID: <489A2521.3010607@sasktel.net>

Hi Mal

Is that $4.99 Canadian or US?

Regards
Ed


Mal Bruce wrote:
> I like the detailed engine bay, spent at least $4.99 for the black spray 
> can!! <pennell at cox.net>
> To: "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>; "List Healeys" 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
>
>
>   
>> Looks like at least $20000.  I predict 22000.  Should be higher but 
>> everyone is edgy about car buying what with gas prices - even 
>> collectibles.
>>
>> Hope they reverse the running lights and turn signals on the front before 
>> the sale.
>>
>> Keith Pennell
>>
>>     
>>> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs
>>> some help. Cheers, JL
>>>
>>> http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=++760861
>>>
>>>
>>> James Lea
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1595 - Release Date: 8/6/2008 
>> 8:23 AM
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Aug  6 17:17:59 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:17:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] My Car--no Healey content
Message-ID: <20080806231759.DSZE29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Ok--it is not a Healey but this is a great look.  

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4524400131165004386&hl=en

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  6 17:28:07 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:28:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Update - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7,
	2008
Message-ID: <28600711.1218065288042.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

NEW WEBSITE:
        www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

LODGING ALTERNATIVES

Dear British Motorhead,

We have checked out the lodging situation in the Brisbane area for people who
live far enough away to stay overnight for a night or two for a more relaxed
weekend. Carole Burton, the official British meet travel agent, got us a DEAL
at the Radisson Hotel, right in the Brisbane Marina!

The Radisson is a very upscale, business type hotel with gourmet restaurant.
We have special British Car Meet rate of $109 per day, Friday, Saturday or
Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway, Brisbane, Phone 415-467-4400.
Ask for the British Car Meet rates.

More local North Bay lodging on our website:
             www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html


Best,

Rick Feibusch
310-392-6605
Meet Coordinator
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

NEW WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html


THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once
again gather in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have
a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and
works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is
essentially the old Palo Alto British Meet in a new location. We are also
expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the
Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open
their doors on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast  Herb Gibson's
Jazz Orchestra will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There
is no preregistration. There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all
entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per
car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the
sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as
show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed
map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we
will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the
afternoon.

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail: Brisbane Marina 2008 <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
Website:
http://www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

From bjcap at optonline.net  Wed Aug  6 18:14:46 2008
From: bjcap at optonline.net (Carroll A Phillips)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 20:14:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] re BJ8 door panels (old interior parts)
Message-ID: <003101c8f822$99746de0$6401a8c0@carrolls>

Guys, Im looking for original front seat bottom covers in perfect shape 
(BJ8,and BLACK) and possibly rear quarterpanels for my own car( '65 two stud 
seat belt). I want to keep the vinyl parts all original.  If you have any 
left over bits from an interior redo and some parts are just too good to 
throw out , please let me know !

Carroll Phillips 

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Wed Aug  6 18:21:11 2008
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:21:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] My Car--no Healey content
In-Reply-To: <20080806231759.DSZE29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
References: <20080806231759.DSZE29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
Message-ID: <471534970808061721o53719019g783a389e3922a006@mail.gmail.com>

That's really neat! I also like the music.

My daughter, however, prefers the Jack Sparrow drawing.

Cheers!
Jody

On 8/6/08, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
> Ok--it is not a Healey but this is a great look.
>
> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4524400131165004386&hl=en
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>


-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/
1953 Studebaker Champion
1959 Studebaker Lark VIII Hot Rod
1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay!

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From ahpowered at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  6 19:06:00 2008
From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 20:06:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000 ENGINE Color
In-Reply-To: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W590058BDD5DD9BE04E50A8B8750@phx.gbl>

Hey,
That's the same sea foam color my BN7 engine was when I got it. This is the
3rd car I've seen with the motor this color.

Vroom

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://www.bgeuroclassics.org
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY


> From: clocks at midcoast.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:49:23 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
>
> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs
> some help. Cheers, JL
>
>
http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=+
+760861
>
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Wed Aug  6 21:31:56 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 23:31:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Missfire/"Puffing" Continuing
Message-ID: <ce8.3a3c9edc.35cbc6ac@aol.com>

All,
 
I checked the compression and I have 2 @ 110, 120,130,150, 160 those are  
probably fine aren't they? What's the rule of thumb- nothing should be unusually  
low and they should be reasonably consistent?
 
I'm going to check the valves next. Do I remember correctly that I should  
just crank the engine until each rocker is at it's highest point then  check?
 
Thanks again,
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Wed Aug  6 21:47:15 2008
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 20:47:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
In-Reply-To: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <038201c8f840$482f3d70$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

Well, since I have a 67 BJ8 and it's #37444 I wonder how this 66 is #78837?
"Needs help" is an understatement.
Ron Davies
SoCal
67 BJ8
97 DB7

Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000

FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs 
some help. Cheers, JL

http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=
++760861


James Lea

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Thu Aug  7 05:06:36 2008
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 07:06:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
References: <004601c8f80e$49e8c000$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<038201c8f840$482f3d70$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
Message-ID: <000a01c8f87d$a918bbb0$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>

It's the body # Ron.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
To: "'James Lea'" <clocks at midcoast.com>; "'List Healeys'" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000


> Well, since I have a 67 BJ8 and it's #37444 I wonder how this 66 is 
> #78837?
> "Needs help" is an understatement.
> Ron Davies
> SoCal
> 67 BJ8
> 97 DB7
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Estimate $20,000-30,000
>
> FYI. It will be interesting to see what this brings. Looks like it needs
> some help. Cheers, JL
>
> http://www.skinnerinc.com/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2419+++++++3+&refno=
> ++760861
>
>
> James Lea
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1595 - Release Date: 8/6/2008 
> 8:23 AM

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Thu Aug  7 07:13:04 2008
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 21:13:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
References: <ca3.39c4f1f3.35cb7c62@aol.com>
Message-ID: <019901c8f88f$54921250$0200a8c0@DadP4>

Hi Jim

What a beautiful example.

Sorry to have to correct you Jim but there are at least 75 known 
Silverstones still alive.

17 in Europe
13 in US
2 in Canada
32 in UK
1 in NZ
1 in Argentina
5 in Australia

and several replicas.

There were approximately equal numbers of D types and E  types built.

cheers

John Rowe
Perth WA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
To: <MidwestAHC at yahoogroups.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 6:14 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale


> What is most likely the finest example of a  Healey Silverstone is now
> offered for sale by the owner. Car is located in  Louisville, KY. Of all 
> the
> Silverstone's built (105) only 33 are known to  survive, 11 are in the 
> U.S.
>
> This car is fully restored and driven.  Ready for concours, vintage 
> rallies
> or whatever your driving pleasure. It is the  more rare and desirable E 
> type.
> It has a  impressive list of awards won including:
>
> First in Class, Austin Healey International Meet, Lake  Tahoe
> Best of Show, Austin Healey Conclave, Washington,  D.C.
> Best of Class, Amelia Island Concours, Amelia Island
>
> For photos and contact information visit:
>
>
> _http://www.healeysilverstone.com_ (http://www.healeysilverstone.com/)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim  Werner
> Louisville, KY

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Aug  7 07:53:40 2008
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 13:53:40 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys]  UK Events?
Message-ID: <784983.14833.qm@web24005.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi John,
There is a general classic car gathering at Culzean ( pronounced
"Cullane") Castle in SW Scotland 22nd to 24th August which I am hoping to
attend with my BN2. I am back in UK 14 - 28th August from my current work
assignment in Qatar (Middle East) and have already researched what's on
between those dates. I couldn't find much else. Not sure about before the 14th
though. The website for the event at Culzean is:-
www.culzeanautoclassica.com/7.html
Let me know if you intend to go and we'll
meet up if you like.
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 20:12:28 -0600
From:
"John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
Subject: [Healeys] UK Events?
To:
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003001c8f769$e217daa0$a7a2e404 at RUDEDOG>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
B B B 
reply-type=original

Anything going on across the pond?

Say, 8-18 August?
Thanks,

JR

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug  7 08:03:57 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 10:03:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
Message-ID: <20080807140357.KOMJ13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Equal numbers of D and E types build? I didn't know that.   
> 
> From: "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
> Date: 2008/08/07 Thu AM 09:13:04 EDT
> To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
> CC: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
> 
> Hi Jim
> 
> What a beautiful example.
> 
> Sorry to have to correct you Jim but there are at least 75 known 
> Silverstones still alive.
> 
> 17 in Europe
> 13 in US
> 2 in Canada
> 32 in UK
> 1 in NZ
> 1 in Argentina
> 5 in Australia
> 
> and several replicas.
> 
> There were approximately equal numbers of D types and E  types built.
> 
> cheers
> 
> John Rowe
> Perth WA
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
> To: <MidwestAHC at yahoogroups.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 6:14 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
> 
> 
> > What is most likely the finest example of a  Healey Silverstone is now
> > offered for sale by the owner. Car is located in  Louisville, KY. Of all 
> > the
> > Silverstone's built (105) only 33 are known to  survive, 11 are in the 
> > U.S.
> >
> > This car is fully restored and driven.  Ready for concours, vintage 
> > rallies
> > or whatever your driving pleasure. It is the  more rare and desirable E 
> > type.
> > It has a  impressive list of awards won including:
> >
> > First in Class, Austin Healey International Meet, Lake  Tahoe
> > Best of Show, Austin Healey Conclave, Washington,  D.C.
> > Best of Class, Amelia Island Concours, Amelia Island
> >
> > For photos and contact information visit:
> >
> >
> > _http://www.healeysilverstone.com_ (http://www.healeysilverstone.com/)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim  Werner
> > Louisville, KY
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug  7 08:04:48 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 10:04:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
Message-ID: <20080807140449.BVAB29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Ooooooops-----wrong list--I was thinking Jag.

sorry
> 
> From: "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
> Date: 2008/08/07 Thu AM 09:13:04 EDT
> To: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
> CC: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
> 
> Hi Jim
> 
> What a beautiful example.
> 
> Sorry to have to correct you Jim but there are at least 75 known 
> Silverstones still alive.
> 
> 17 in Europe
> 13 in US
> 2 in Canada
> 32 in UK
> 1 in NZ
> 1 in Argentina
> 5 in Australia
> 
> and several replicas.
> 
> There were approximately equal numbers of D types and E  types built.
> 
> cheers
> 
> John Rowe
> Perth WA
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
> To: <MidwestAHC at yahoogroups.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 6:14 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Silverstone For Sale
> 
> 
> > What is most likely the finest example of a  Healey Silverstone is now
> > offered for sale by the owner. Car is located in  Louisville, KY. Of all 
> > the
> > Silverstone's built (105) only 33 are known to  survive, 11 are in the 
> > U.S.
> >
> > This car is fully restored and driven.  Ready for concours, vintage 
> > rallies
> > or whatever your driving pleasure. It is the  more rare and desirable E 
> > type.
> > It has a  impressive list of awards won including:
> >
> > First in Class, Austin Healey International Meet, Lake  Tahoe
> > Best of Show, Austin Healey Conclave, Washington,  D.C.
> > Best of Class, Amelia Island Concours, Amelia Island
> >
> > For photos and contact information visit:
> >
> >
> > _http://www.healeysilverstone.com_ (http://www.healeysilverstone.com/)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim  Werner
> > Louisville, KY
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug  7 08:33:53 2008
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 07:33:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
Message-ID: <BAY101-W41DF4404969AE61589221FDB750@phx.gbl>

Recently there was a thread going around about inside door panels and the poor
fit of new ones from the usual sources. Has anyone tried to make new ones from
bender board available from local uphostery suppliers and covering with
leather or vinyl? As long as the originals are good enough for patterns. Am I
thinking this is easier than it sounds???

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
Contest
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Aug  7 10:00:05 2008
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 11:00:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] UK Events?
Message-ID: <956192.1943811218124805942.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web08-z02>

Put the trip off for a month and go to Goodwood.

http://www.goodwood.co.uk/site/content/revival/Welcome.aspx

I have this on my list of must sees.

Greg L.

---- mike brooks <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk> wrote: 
> Hi John,
> There is a general classic car gathering at Culzean ( pronounced
> "Cullane") Castle in SW Scotland 22nd to 24th August which I am hoping to
> attend with my BN2. I am back in UK 14 - 28th August from my current work
> assignment in Qatar (Middle East) and have already researched what's on
> between those dates. I couldn't find much else. Not sure about before the 14th
> though. The website for the event at Culzean is:-
> www.culzeanautoclassica.com/7.html
> Let me know if you intend to go and we'll
> meet up if you like.
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 20:12:28 -0600
> From:
> "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] UK Events?
> To:
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <003001c8f769$e217daa0$a7a2e404 at RUDEDOG>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> B B B 
> reply-type=original
> 
> Anything going on across the pond?
> 
> Say, 8-18 August?
> Thanks,
> 
> JR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as glemon at neb.rr.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Aug  7 14:01:13 2008
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 20:01:13 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] UK Events?
Message-ID: <397795.51898.qm@web24004.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Greg,
Don't you think I would if I could?
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008
11:00:05 -0500
From: <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] UK Events?
Cc:
Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
B B B 
<956192.1943811218124805942.JavaMail.root at hrndva-web08-z02>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=utf-8

Put the trip off for a month and go to Goodwood.
http://www.goodwood.co.uk/site/content/revival/Welcome.aspx

I have this on my
list of must sees.

Greg L.

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug  7 14:48:34 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:48:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
Message-ID: <20080807204834.LKZP29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

I tried this many years ago and found that I'm not skilled enough to cut them correctly.  But--if you are good, there is no reason you can't do it.
> 
> From: Dan <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
> Date: 2008/08/07 Thu AM 10:33:53 EDT
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
> 
> Recently there was a thread going around about inside door panels and the poor
> fit of new ones from the usual sources. Has anyone tried to make new ones from
> bender board available from local uphostery suppliers and covering with
> leather or vinyl? As long as the originals are good enough for patterns. Am I
> thinking this is easier than it sounds???
> 
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> _________________________________________________________________
> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
> Contest
> http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bj7healey at gto.net  Thu Aug  7 15:51:14 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:51:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
References: <20080807204834.LKZP29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
Message-ID: <613971DE33F24ABBA56F1E497D3B1AF1@acer684c9a655d>

I made mine from 1/8" mahogany Door skin material, 13 years ago, I also 
painted the panels before gluing on the vinyl. If you go to this web address 
it shows 2 pictures of the panel.
        http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/~bjslater/my%20restoration%202.htm
                                        Bob Slater   BJ7

--------------------------------------------------
From: <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 4:48 PM
To: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Panels

> I tried this many years ago and found that I'm not skilled enough to cut 
> them correctly.  But--if you are good, there is no reason you can't do it.
>>
>> From: Dan <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
>> Date: 2008/08/07 Thu AM 10:33:53 EDT
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
>>
>> Recently there was a thread going around about inside door panels and the 
>> poor
>> fit of new ones from the usual sources. Has anyone tried to make new ones 
>> from
>> bender board available from local uphostery suppliers and covering with
>> leather or vinyl? As long as the originals are good enough for patterns. 
>> Am I
>> thinking this is easier than it sounds???
>>
>> Dan Serrao
>> 1963 BJ7
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games 
>> Trivia
>> Contest
>> http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bj7healey at gto.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Aug  7 16:15:21 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 18:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
References: <BAY101-W41DF4404969AE61589221FDB750@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <011001c8f8db$1531f160$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Dan,

The main door panels on your BJ7 are one of the few models that don't have 
stitching involved on the panel. Therefore it wouldn't be all that difficult 
to make up the main panels and cover them with a suitable vinyl. However, on 
your BJ7, the aluminum inner pocket panel is covered with a vinyl piece 
consisting of 4 pocketed horizontal rows of stitching with a slight amount 
of coach wadding applied between the stitching for slight loft. Many folks 
don't have the sewing machine or the know how to do that accurately.
Other models of the Healey both earlier and later have their own unique 
sewing requirements, each could be it's own chapter!

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 10:33 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels


> Recently there was a thread going around about inside door panels and the 
> poor
> fit of new ones from the usual sources. Has anyone tried to make new ones 
> from
> bender board available from local uphostery suppliers and covering with
> leather or vinyl? As long as the originals are good enough for patterns. 
> Am I
> thinking this is easier than it sounds???
>
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> _________________________________________________________________
> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games 
> Trivia
> Contest
> http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Healey 006.jpg]

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Aug  7 16:17:29 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:17:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

The nominal setting for the jet position is 2 1/4 adjusting screw turns
from a flush jet position. I need to know what this equates to in
inches. .050 or .086 or what?? I think I read .086 in a book somewhere,
but I can't find it now.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Thu Aug  7 16:28:47 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <26629157-915E-4F6F-8DC9-B4A5646D4722@cox.net>

If we know the thread count, we could prolly figger it out, eh?

Wilko

On Aug 7, 2008, at 3:17 PM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> The nominal setting for the jet position is 2 1/4 adjusting screw  
> turns
> from a flush jet position. I need to know what this equates to in
> inches. .050 or .086 or what?? I think I read .086 in a book  
> somewhere,
> but I can't find it now.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Aug  7 17:01:28 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:01:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
In-Reply-To: <26629157-915E-4F6F-8DC9-B4A5646D4722@cox.net>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<26629157-915E-4F6F-8DC9-B4A5646D4722@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502142@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

If there is a one to one ratio on the jet arm, yes. Is there?
Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 3:29 PM
To: Healey List Emails
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD8 question

If we know the thread count, we could prolly figger it out, eh?

Wilko

On Aug 7, 2008, at 3:17 PM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> The nominal setting for the jet position is 2 1/4 adjusting screw
> turns from a flush jet position. I need to know what this equates to
> in inches. .050 or .086 or what?? I think I read .086 in a book
> somewhere, but I can't find it now.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as ken.freese at aerojet.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Thu Aug  7 20:26:46 2008
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 21:26:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Shelley jack question
Message-ID: <000301c8f8fe$356c22c0$a0446840$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

 

Would the 225 model be the correct Shelley jack for a 63 BJ7 VIN 20,040?
Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

Randy

63 BJ7

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Aug  7 20:45:18 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 22:45:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shelley jack question
References: <000301c8f8fe$356c22c0$a0446840$@com>
Message-ID: <013101c8f900$cba12130$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Randy,

Yes, the BJ7 would have had the LJ225 jack, most likely the earlier one 
without the reinforced activating yoke where the tommy bar fits in. These 
earlier ones have the marking CA259 cast into the weaker activating yoke. 
The later model LJ225 has the thicker activating yoke collar and has CA311 
cast into it.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 10:26 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Shelley jack question


> Fellow Healeyoids,
>
>
>
> Would the 225 model be the correct Shelley jack for a 63 BJ7 VIN 20,040?
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Randy
>
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Fri Aug  8 11:45:19 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 10:45:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502142@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<26629157-915E-4F6F-8DC9-B4A5646D4722@cox.net>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502142@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <F5968521-F39F-44B0-B057-B022BE417604@cox.net>

I looked in a few books last night, including an SU book and found no  
mention of the distance of travel for the inital jet setup. Only "2  
and 1/2 turns"

On Aug 7, 2008, at 4:01 PM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> If there is a one to one ratio on the jet arm, yes. Is there?
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net] On  
> Behalf
> Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 3:29 PM
> To: Healey List Emails
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
>
> If we know the thread count, we could prolly figger it out, eh?
>
> Wilko

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Aug  8 13:34:23 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 15:34:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Panels
In-Reply-To: <613971DE33F24ABBA56F1E497D3B1AF1@acer684c9a655d>
References: <20080807204834.LKZP29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
	<613971DE33F24ABBA56F1E497D3B1AF1@acer684c9a655d>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W14AC03F87188D55AE1E4C2AD740@phx.gbl>

I did the same thing. Those door skins work great.
Bill
BJ7



> From: bj7healey at gto.net> To: tomfelts at windstream.net; jobu53 at hotmail.com;
healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 17:51:14 -0400> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Door Panels> > I made mine from 1/8" mahogany Door skin material, 13
years ago, I also > painted the panels before gluing on the vinyl. If you go
to this web address > it shows 2 pictures of the panel.>
http://home.golden.net/~bjslater/~bjslater/my%20restoration%202.htm> Bob
Slater BJ7> > --------------------------------------------------> From:
<tomfelts at windstream.net>> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 4:48 PM> To: "Dan"
<jobu53 at hotmail.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door
Panels> > > I tried this many years ago and found that I'm not skilled enough
to cut > > them correctly. But--if you are good, there is no reason you can't
do it.> >>> >> From: Dan <jobu53 at hotmail.com>> >> Date: 2008/08/07 Thu AM
10:33:53 EDT> >> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>> >> Subject: [Healeys] Door
Panels> >>> >> Recently there was a thread going around about inside door
panels and the > >> poor> >> fit of new ones from the usual sources. Has
anyone tried to make new ones > >> from> >> bender board available from local
uphostery suppliers and covering with> >> leather or vinyl? As long as the
originals are good enough for patterns. > >> Am I> >> thinking this is easier
than it sounds???> >>> >> Dan Serrao> >> 1963 BJ7> >>
_________________________________________________________________> >> Got
Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games > >> Trivia>
>> Contest> >> http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM> >>
_______________________________________________> >> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> >>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net> >>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> >>> >> You are subscribed as
tomfelts at windstream.net> >>> >> http://www.team.net/archive> >
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Healeys at autox.team.net> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> >> > You are subscribed as
bj7healey at gto.net> >> > http://www.team.net/archive >
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
insptwo at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Fri Aug  8 14:03:11 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 13:03:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU HD8 question
In-Reply-To: <F5968521-F39F-44B0-B057-B022BE417604@cox.net>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150213F@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local><26629157-915E-4F6F-8DC9-B4A5646D4722@cox.net><0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502142@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<F5968521-F39F-44B0-B057-B022BE417604@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502155@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

 I have new carbs (5 years old or so). The quality isn't as good as the
old days.
The screws run out of travel before the jet can get flush with the jet
holder as the starting point. So counting screw turns isn't reliable on
one of the carbs.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 10:45 AM
To: Healey List Emails
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD8 question

I looked in a few books last night, including an SU book and found no
mention of the distance of travel for the inital jet setup. Only "2 and
1/2 turns"

>
> Wilko

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  8 14:32:25 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 20:32:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Hurray, BJ8 is back, website update
Message-ID: <BLU105-W441C0DE16F84A095366280D5740@phx.gbl>

Guys
My Bj8 is back after having the chassis and body, fully repaired on jig,and
bare metal respray. After overcoming my adversion to spoiling the lovely
paintwork, I have started reassembling all the bits I have restored.

I have updated my website, including the current state page, bodywork page,
and also added many photos to the photo gallery, including loads to the paint
album and created a new album called The jigsaw which shows pics of the engine
bay being refilled, boot bits fitted, and door aluminium trim covers
installed.

www.austin-healey3000.com

enjoy!
cheers Andy
BJ8 35244 (old rusty)
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Sat Aug  9 05:50:49 2008
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 04:50:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <001a01c8fa16$2aec1a80$031919ac@LENOVODADC0FD0>

just making sure new computer/e-mail are working

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From rkorn at simnet.is  Fri Aug  8 16:03:43 2008
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 22:03:43 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Hurray, BJ8 is back, website update
References: <BLU105-W441C0DE16F84A095366280D5740@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301c8f9a2$9f988450$4001a8c0@velad>

Andy,

What a beautiful sight,A Brand new Healey Blue engine bay ready to go.Thanks 
for sharing your adventure, it makes it look less daunting for those of us 
yet to take the plunge.

Richard
BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 8:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Hurray, BJ8 is back, website update


> Guys
> My Bj8 is back after having the chassis and body, fully repaired on 
> jig,and
> bare metal respray. After overcoming my adversion to spoiling the lovely
> paintwork, I have started reassembling all the bits I have restored.
>
> I have updated my website, including the current state page, bodywork 
> page,
> and also added many photos to the photo gallery, including loads to the 
> paint
> album and created a new album called The jigsaw which shows pics of the 
> engine
> bay being refilled, boot bits fitted, and door aluminium trim covers
> installed.
>
> www.austin-healey3000.com
>
> enjoy!
> cheers Andy
> BJ8 35244 (old rusty)
> _________________________________________________________________
> Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rkorn at simnet.is
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug  8 16:39:37 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 15:39:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Restoration products
Message-ID: <27B88032-8826-4EE1-9059-188489FEB654@sbcglobal.net>

We have found a new product that will save a lot of misery to the  
paint during your repairs and restoration work. We now have the white  
plastic material that you see on all the new cars that are on a  
transporter heading to the dealers. It is a  3.1 mil static cling  
plastic that will stay in place and not damage your paint. It will  
help protect the new paint on your car during restoration from those  
minor oops that always happen.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From philritten at aol.com  Fri Aug  8 17:05:40 2008
From: philritten at aol.com (Philip Rittenhouse)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:05:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 for sale
Message-ID: <3369F52C-AC03-4D94-8847-1D96DC1FB560@aol.com>

All,

I'm thinking about selling my '61 BT7 (project), please let me know  
offline if you are interested. It's a straight Arizona car.

Thanks,
Phil

Sent from my iPhone

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug  8 17:13:34 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 16:13:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 for sale
In-Reply-To: <3369F52C-AC03-4D94-8847-1D96DC1FB560@aol.com>
Message-ID: <842363.6766.qm@web50011.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

As opposed to a gay Arizona Car?  Not that there's anything wrong with that...
   
  8-)
   
  see what happens when you don't post Friday Funnies.  Have a great weekend gents!
   
   
  

Philip Rittenhouse <philritten at aol.com> wrote:
  All,

I'm thinking about selling my '61 BT7 (project), please let me know 
offline if you are interested. It's a straight Arizona car.

Thanks,
Phil

Sent from my iPhone
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Sat Aug  9 07:13:35 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 06:13:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The list come through again
Message-ID: <83CF27891EF34B6FA87001A39DD367D1@TRACY>

Thanks to all who responded from the Oxford Detroit area.  Al Fuller came
through and my daughters parts are now on the UPS truck.

 

You guys rock !   Well except Ed.

 

Cheers

 

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From healey.1 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  9 07:51:07 2008
From: healey.1 at hotmail.com (Mike Louwagie)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 15:51:07 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Power loss engine
Message-ID: <BLU146-W276FA59FBD3E4E9C2A45BBCC770@phx.gbl>

Hi,

I have a question about loss of power, not Healey.
Its about power loss on a car from 1928, a Minerva, made in Belgium.
My dad owns this car only a 3 months and we drove it  a few times since and
had no problem.
Now a few days ago we went for a little trip after we put a lead adjective in
gas tank.
This because the say its better to do so. But after about 8 miles there was
power loss on the engine, a lot, and did not go away.
Could this by using the lead adjective?
Thanks, Mike.
Belgium.

_________________________________________________________________
Start een boeiend online leven...helemaal gratis dankzij Windows Live!
http://get.live.com

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sat Aug  9 08:14:07 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (Price)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 14:14:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
Message-ID: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've 2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Aug  9 08:16:55 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 10:16:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The list come through again
Message-ID: <20080809.101656.2964.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

Hey Ed,

You goin' to take that!!!! :)

 
> Thanks to all who responded from the Oxford Detroit area.  Al Fuller 
> came
> through and my daughters parts are now on the UPS truck.
> 
>  
> 
> You guys rock !   Well except Ed.
> 
>  
> 
> Cheers
> 
>  
> 
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> 
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
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http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mK7B1H9JINQ2lOjhFXJcu68CASJvx2wEOcroGEM61E6UEi4/

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sat Aug  9 09:17:27 2008
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 10:17:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] The list come through again
In-Reply-To: <20080809.101656.2964.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20080809.101656.2964.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0808090817l20f807edi33985a27c0c021c@mail.gmail.com>

Ed just rolls

On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:

> Hey Ed,
>
> You goin' to take that!!!! :)



> >
> > You guys rock !   Well except Ed.
>
-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
1977 Newport '28

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug  9 09:24:04 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2008 08:24:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Power loss engine
In-Reply-To: <BLU146-W276FA59FBD3E4E9C2A45BBCC770@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU146-W276FA59FBD3E4E9C2A45BBCC770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <489DB694.3000300@comcast.net>

Mike,

This is pure conjecture on my part (never stopped me before ;), but it 
sure sounds like there is "cause and effect" here (I assume you've 
checked the "usual suspects," like loose ignition wires, fuel delivery, 
etc.).

I believe the lead substitutes/additives use other metal compounds (like 
manganese) to do what lead used to do--as a side effect to raising 
antiknock quality--mainly coat exhaust valves to protect them from 
gradually receding into the head.  If the compression of an engine is 
low--likely in an engine from that era--there may not be enough 
combustion heat to burn these compounds completely.  Check your spark 
plugs for deposits.  The other possibility is that something has 
gunked-up the rings, resulting in loss of compression. 

Lead compounds (tetraethyl and tetramethyl) were added to gasoline in 
the early 1920's--your car may or may not have been built to run with 
leaded fuels.

The gasoline available in 1928 still had a pretty low octane rating; 
your car should run fine on regular unleaded (anything up to a 
compression rating of 8:1 or so), but you may eventually get exhaust 
valve recession.  If/when you rebuild the engine you should be able to 
get hardened exhaust valves and seats installed, but since I doubt 
you'll be putting a huge number of miles on the car you should be able 
to drive it for years before you have a problem with exhaust valve 
recession.


bs



Mike Louwagie wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a question about loss of power, not Healey.
> Its about power loss on a car from 1928, a Minerva, made in Belgium.
> My dad owns this car only a 3 months and we drove it  a few times since and
> had no problem.
> Now a few days ago we went for a little trip after we put a lead adjective in
> gas tank.
> This because the say its better to do so. But after about 8 miles there was
> power loss on the engine, a lot, and did not go away.
> Could this by using the lead adjective?
> Thanks, Mike.
> Belgium.
>
>   
 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Sat Aug  9 10:10:13 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 12:10:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
Message-ID: <c04.4241f65c.35cf1b65@aol.com>

All,
 
I adjusted the valves, and my car is purring like a kitten now (still has  
some puffs). I put in new plugs that I got from M*** and I could swear I have  
less power. Is that possible? The ones I took out were NGKR BPR5ES and the ones 
 I put in were Champion Copper N5C (part number 152-120). Are some plugs 
hotter  than others, thus creating a bigger spark and more power?
 
Thanks,
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From bj7healey at gto.net  Sat Aug  9 10:28:57 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 12:28:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <57E44F5E38074B1BA1C63381130B78FF@acer684c9a655d>

I have put pictures of my conversion at this web address
              http://picasaweb.google.com/bj7healey/AlternatorConversion
                                   Bob Slater   1963 BJ7

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Price" <price at advocateadvisors.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 10:14 AM
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8

> Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've 
> 2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bj7healey at gto.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jtrifari at comcast.net  Sat Aug  9 11:50:53 2008
From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 10:50:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
In-Reply-To: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <5D8160C19B08400388313C443BA8807E@JohnPC>

Denis Welch has an alternator kit for the BJ8.  I've got one on my 1965.
Kit includes a bracket for a Lucas alternator (probably from an MGB).
You'll also have to rewire the generator circuit so that you eliminate
the control box (regulator is included in the alternator).  I degutted
my control box and used it as a connector block.  See Healey Marque June
2003).  John Trifari   Golden Gate Austin Healey Club

From: healeys-bounces+jtrifari=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jtrifari=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Price
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:14 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8

Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've
2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jtrifari at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From don at anglesey.us  Sat Aug  9 12:32:33 2008
From: don at anglesey.us (Don )
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 12:32:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <c04.4241f65c.35cf1b65@aol.com>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAasEFq0KZzkejjApDfMawrgEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

Phil,
I have found the NGK's run better than the Champion's.  I usually pick
up mine from http://www.summitracing.com/.  I can get a better read on
my mixture settings as well using the NGK's

Don
57' BN4

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
PhilRitten at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 10:10 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs

All,
 
I adjusted the valves, and my car is purring like a kitten now (still
has  
some puffs). I put in new plugs that I got from M*** and I could swear I
have  
less power. Is that possible? The ones I took out were NGKR BPR5ES and
the ones 
 I put in were Champion Copper N5C (part number 152-120). Are some plugs

hotter  than others, thus creating a bigger spark and more power?
 
Thanks,
Phil

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sat Aug  9 12:38:36 2008
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 11:38:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
In-Reply-To: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAEEBODKAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

I bought a kit from Hendrix Wire Wheel, then got the alternator locally.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/stuff.html

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've
2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old.

From rjh.co at tx.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 15:57:31 2008
From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 16:57:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Jag XKE Question
In-Reply-To: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAEEBODKAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAEEBODKAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <007501c8fa6a$ec3bab70$c4b30250$@co@tx.rr.com>

We are fitting a new hood to a XKE 12 cylinder roadster.  The PO installed a
hack job cheapo, non-fitting  hood.  We are starting from scratch with no
usable patterns, pictures or references.  Anyone on the list know of a link
to a Jag site with pictures of a Jag 12 cylinder hood installation.

Delete if you do not like Jaguars.......

Many, many thanks.

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX

From 1968xke at gmail.com  Sat Aug  9 15:58:36 2008
From: 1968xke at gmail.com (Randall Harris)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 14:58:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Jag XKE Question
In-Reply-To: <2971938634927608324@unknownmsgid>
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAEEBODKAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
	<2971938634927608324@unknownmsgid>
Message-ID: <82e6c8990808091458y548fadb6x95b3b4c56bd16c1d@mail.gmail.com>

Here you go: www.jag-lovers.org
Randy
'66 BJ8, '68 XKE

On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 2:57 PM, rjhco <rjh.co at tx.rr.com> wrote:

> We are fitting a new hood to a XKE 12 cylinder roadster.  The PO installed
> a
> hack job cheapo, non-fitting  hood.  We are starting from scratch with no
> usable patterns, pictures or references.  Anyone on the list know of a link
> to a Jag site with pictures of a Jag 12 cylinder hood installation.
>
> Delete if you do not like Jaguars.......
>
> Many, many thanks.
>
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
> Dallas, TX
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as 1968xke at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug  9 17:25:24 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 16:25:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
In-Reply-To: <5D8160C19B08400388313C443BA8807E@JohnPC>
Message-ID: <951678.87252.qm@web83311.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

John ... Sheila had it in her hand and said to me , " What is it " big deal its a spectacular generator . chrome cover band .. end brackets highly polished aluminium .. bearings at drive end and com. end .. body painted black and then she put it in my hand , it was about 10Lbs lighter than a generator.. IT'S an alternator inside a generator body ... she had a customer who wanted one ..
  no dollars or amps yet .... Norman Nock
British Car Specialists 

--- On Sat, 8/9/08, John Trifari <jtrifari at comcast.net> wrote:

> From: John Trifari <jtrifari at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
> To: price at advocateadvisors.com, Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 10:50 AM
> Denis Welch has an alternator kit for the BJ8.  I've got
> one on my 1965.
> Kit includes a bracket for a Lucas alternator (probably
> from an MGB).
> You'll also have to rewire the generator circuit so
> that you eliminate
> the control box (regulator is included in the alternator). 
> I degutted
> my control box and used it as a connector block.  See
> Healey Marque June
> 2003).  John Trifari   Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
> 
> From: healeys-bounces+jtrifari=comcast.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+jtrifari=comcast.net at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf
> Of Price
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:14 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
> 
> Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67
> BJ 8?  I've
> 2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting
> old. 
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as jtrifari at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Aug  9 18:10:57 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 17:10:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
In-Reply-To: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <001201c8fa7d$903d6da0$b0b848e0$@rr.com>

Price, I used an alternator mounting kit from Don Lenschow of the North
Texas Austin-Healey Club - drtrite at aol.com (I believe this kit is also sold
by Allen Hendrix - http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com).  It came with
recommendations for a Delco SI-10 alternator, which is the one I used.  I
got it at NAPA and it has worked fine for me for the last 10 years.  An
SI-12 is a modern improvement on the SI-10, I understand.  The SI-10 also
required an electrical plug with a pigtail to plug into the alternator
connector.  You can get those at NAPA, too.

You'll have to convert your car to negative ground, of course.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Price
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:14 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8

Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've
2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old. 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Aug  9 18:27:58 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2008 20:27:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Jag XKE Question
Message-ID: <20080810002758.YKPU13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

You must subscribe to access the site.  Here is how to do it.

send e-mailk to   majordomo at jag-lovers.org
no subject
in the body add   subscribe e-type        nothing more
send
you will get instruction on how to be a list member after that--just follow their instructions

Probably will not be any photo's readilly available, but some lister will be glad to help

The E-type list is a great list as is this list!!

tom 
> 
> From: "Randall Harris" <1968xke at gmail.com>
> Date: 2008/08/09 Sat PM 05:58:36 EDT
> To: rjhco <rjh.co at tx.rr.com>
> CC: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Jag XKE Question
> 
> Here you go: www.jag-lovers.org
> Randy
> '66 BJ8, '68 XKE
> 
> On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 2:57 PM, rjhco <rjh.co at tx.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> > We are fitting a new hood to a XKE 12 cylinder roadster.  The PO installed
> > a
> > hack job cheapo, non-fitting  hood.  We are starting from scratch with no
> > usable patterns, pictures or references.  Anyone on the list know of a link
> > to a Jag site with pictures of a Jag 12 cylinder hood installation.
> >
> > Delete if you do not like Jaguars.......
> >
> > Many, many thanks.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Jim Hockert
> > Dallas, TX
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as 1968xke at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sun Aug 10 02:14:21 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 10:14:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
In-Reply-To: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAA/iwER5Ef5DgCjyVUSA4BoBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

http://tinyurl.com/5kaah8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Price
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 4:14 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8

Does anyone have a recomendation on an alternator for my 67 BJ 8?  I've
2,000 miles on my last generator repair-- it's getting old. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From bighealey at charter.net  Sun Aug 10 07:38:50 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 06:38:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The list come through again
In-Reply-To: <20080809.101656.2964.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <9556937DD4BC459E9BBE6A535F2FDB1C@TRACY>

Doug,

I have been corrected.  My daughter said I don't rock.  She has seen me
dance and has concluded I look ridiculous (well we knew that) dancing.


Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas W Flagg [mailto:dwflagg at juno.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:17 AM
To: bighealey at charter.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The list come through again

Hey Ed,

You goin' to take that!!!! :)


> Thanks to all who responded from the Oxford Detroit area.  Al Fuller
> came
> through and my daughters parts are now on the UPS truck.
>
>
>
> You guys rock !   Well except Ed.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>

____________________________________________________________
Click to find affordable options to attain your business degree.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l7gNE5ZA7h3q3M8sIESTqvjQf
ROhLNhCCh9xrKWvOYC9TQu/

From bj7healey at gto.net  Sun Aug 10 11:12:03 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 13:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Front End Alignment
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <0CC7B82963354086AAD2258E1B4AB257@acer684c9a655d>

Hi Guys
      I have put a diagram at this web address to show how I am checking 
Camber alignment on my BJ7.

                 http://picasaweb.google.com/bj7healey/MyHealyAlignment/photo#5232935061031041170

         Question 1    Am I doing this right
         Question 2    Are These dimensions acceptable
                             Thanks     Bob Slater

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug 10 15:47:24 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 17:47:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Reflectors
Message-ID: <20080810.174724.4184.4.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a pair of NOS 57124 Lucas Reflex reflectors, but am unsure of
their application. Can anyone help? TIA.

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Rock Solid Web Hosting. Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nBPWgVEisjj9UCmi5diSv3GI7soMbAWbcihS4nrY2OLKUgU/

From edmyed at harbornet.com  Sun Aug 10 16:57:24 2008
From: edmyed at harbornet.com (Richard Bittmann)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 15:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] disc brake caliper securing bolts
Message-ID: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>

Hello listers,

I need help judging how to proceed with securing my calipers.  My BJ7 has
about 3700 miles on the odometer since restoration.  I kept hearing clunks
coming from the front brakes when they were applied hard.  This condition
existed for a thousand miles or so before I took action.  Upon removing the
front wheels, I discovered there was play in the calipers when rocked forward
and back paralel to the discs.  I removed the brakelines and calipers and
discovered that the left front bottoom caliper securing bolt threads were
damaged (threads rounded over).  This bolt was also missing the heavy lock
washers which were present on the other 3 bolts.  The other 3 bolts look good
but exhibited some back & forth moveability when partially withdrawn.
Obviousely some wear there too.  I've ordered 1 new bolt and I'm thinking
about reinstalling the calipers using Locktite Red to insure a tight fit when
finished.  Locktite Red is a "permanent" threadlocker which can be removed
when heated to  500 deg.  I look at this as a temporary fix to get me through
the Summer season.  If it holds, then I'll wait until winter to look at the
situation again and pull the front suspension apart to make proper repairs.

Does this sound reasonable?  Am I risking our lives by driving the car in this
condition?  What is recommended as a permanent fix.  Can the swivel axle back
plate threads be repaired?  They appear to be cast steel.  Should all 4 bolts
be replaced?

Thanks for your replies in advance.  Richard Bittmann BJ7 Tacoma

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Sun Aug 10 17:07:18 2008
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 19:07:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heat shield parts?
Message-ID: <03a301c8fb3d$d6d2dfa0$6401a8c0@universal1>

    I have available two items that look to be some sort of heat shields.

    One is metal and is punched for a twin-carb set-up, the other is
fibre-board and is still in a plastic package - it looks to be for a twin carb
as well.

    If anyone is interested, please contact me off-list and I can supply
photos.

    These came with a 'parts-pile' so they may be for an 'off-brand', I don't
know. First reasonable offer (and/or ID) takes them.

    Regards,

                                                                             
       CB

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Sun Aug 10 18:47:40 2008
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 20:47:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke Parts
Message-ID: <03fa01c8fb4b$dc0938d0$6401a8c0@universal1>

    OK, don't choke on these parts!

    I have what appears to be a choke assembly for a later twin-carb Healey.

    There is no pull knob and initial cable, the secondary cables are there
but likely would need work/replaced.

    The cable housings and brackets seem to be all there.

    Photos on request - reply off-list.

    First/Best offer wins.

    Later,

                                                                            C
B

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 18:55:47 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 17:55:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] disc brake caliper securing bolts
In-Reply-To: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>
References: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808101755g5b821a7cu72aa1bef45946609@mail.gmail.com>

If it were me, I would not use red loctite on any threaded fastener that I
ever wanted to disassemble.  Ever.  When properly applied Loctite 271 (red)
is stronger than a grade 8 bolt.  In other words if you try to unscrew a
joint with properly applied and cured 271 you will leave the bolt threads in
hole, or break the bolt atempting to unscrew it.  While you are correct that
when heated to near 500F Loctie will turn to powder, I have to ask, do you
really want to get that kind of heat near your brake calipers?  It seems to
me that if you leave the torch in place a bit too long and this could be a
very bad idea.
Blue Loctite when properly applied is plenty strong enough.
Proper application means both the bolt and the hole are clean enough to eat
off of, and dry.  If you can find a bottle of Loctite Kleen and Prime spray
the bolt with it.  Apply the blue Loctite torque to spec and allow it to
cure.

Also if it were my car, I would order 4 new bolts.
$.02
Rick

I've ordered 1 new bolt and I'm thinking
> about reinstalling the calipers using Locktite Red to insure a tight fit
> when
> finished.  Locktite Red is a "permanent" threadlocker which can be removed
> when heated to  500 deg.  I look at this as a temporary fix to get me
> through
> the Summer season.  If it holds, then I'll wait until winter to look at the
> situation again and pull the front suspension apart to make proper repairs.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?  Am I risking our lives by driving the car in
> this
> condition?  What is recommended as a permanent fix.  Can the swivel axle
> back
> plate threads be repaired?  They appear to be cast steel.  Should all 4
> bolts
> be replaced?
>
> Thanks for your replies in advance.  Richard Bittmann BJ7 Tacoma
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 18:57:47 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 08:57:47 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] disc brake caliper securing bolts
In-Reply-To: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>
References: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808101757s5d57b901r15a7fa44d7fb4f57@mail.gmail.com>

Richard -

Are the threads on the axle stripped, or is it just the bolt?  If the axle
is fine, you probably don't need to threadlock the bolt.

Remember, the primary stress on this bolt is a sheer stress on the bolt
itself, so the chances of the bolt coming loose a minimal, and even if it
did, it seems you are in tune with the problem enough that you would know to
stop driving the car until it is fixed.

If the hole on your axle is in fact stripped, you can probably fix this
using a helicoil repair kit.  This will give you sufficient thread strength
to hold and keep the bolt in.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 6:57 AM, Richard Bittmann <edmyed at harbornet.com>wrote:

> Hello listers,
>
> I need help judging how to proceed with securing my calipers.  My BJ7 has
> about 3700 miles on the odometer since restoration.  I kept hearing clunks
> coming from the front brakes when they were applied hard.  This condition
> existed for a thousand miles or so before I took action.  Upon removing the
> front wheels, I discovered there was play in the calipers when rocked
> forward
> and back paralel to the discs.  I removed the brakelines and calipers and
> discovered that the left front bottoom caliper securing bolt threads were
> damaged (threads rounded over).  This bolt was also missing the heavy lock
> washers which were present on the other 3 bolts.  The other 3 bolts look
> good
> but exhibited some back & forth moveability when partially withdrawn.
> Obviousely some wear there too.  I've ordered 1 new bolt and I'm thinking
> about reinstalling the calipers using Locktite Red to insure a tight fit
> when
> finished.  Locktite Red is a "permanent" threadlocker which can be removed
> when heated to  500 deg.  I look at this as a temporary fix to get me
> through
> the Summer season.  If it holds, then I'll wait until winter to look at the
> situation again and pull the front suspension apart to make proper repairs.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?  Am I risking our lives by driving the car in
> this
> condition?  What is recommended as a permanent fix.  Can the swivel axle
> back
> plate threads be repaired?  They appear to be cast steel.  Should all 4
> bolts
> be replaced?
>
> Thanks for your replies in advance.  Richard Bittmann BJ7 Tacoma
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pennell at cox.net  Sun Aug 10 19:02:11 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 21:02:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] disc brake caliper securing bolts
In-Reply-To: <000601c8fb3c$74b92780$c537bf83@richard7je7n03>
Message-ID: <20080810210211.4NCEM.154872.imail@eastrmwml37>

Richard,

I would be hesitant to use the red if it creates such a permanent bond.  Especially since you plan to make proper repairs in less than 6 months.

Definitely go ahead and order 4 new bolts.  A few dollars is worth the peace of mind.

My .02
Keith Pennell

> Hello listers,
> 
> I need help judging how to proceed with securing my calipers.  My BJ7 has
> about 3700 miles on the odometer since restoration.  I kept hearing clunks
> coming from the front brakes when they were applied hard.  This condition
> existed for a thousand miles or so before I took action.  Upon removing the
> front wheels, I discovered there was play in the calipers when rocked forward
> and back paralel to the discs.  I removed the brakelines and calipers and
> discovered that the left front bottoom caliper securing bolt threads were
> damaged (threads rounded over).  This bolt was also missing the heavy lock
> washers which were present on the other 3 bolts.  The other 3 bolts look good
> but exhibited some back & forth moveability when partially withdrawn.
> Obviousely some wear there too.  I've ordered 1 new bolt and I'm thinking
> about reinstalling the calipers using Locktite Red to insure a tight fit when
> finished.  Locktite Red is a "permanent" threadlocker which can be removed
> when heated to  500 deg.  I look at this as a temporary fix to get me through
> the Summer season.  If it holds, then I'll wait until winter to look at the
> situation again and pull the front suspension apart to make proper repairs.
> 
> Does this sound reasonable?  Am I risking our lives by driving the car in this
> condition?  What is recommended as a permanent fix.  Can the swivel axle back
> plate threads be repaired?  They appear to be cast steel.  Should all 4 bolts
> be replaced?
> 
> Thanks for your replies in advance.  Richard Bittmann BJ7 Tacoma

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 10 19:55:44 2008
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 18:55:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
Message-ID: <183282.35669.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Has anyone ever used vinegar to clean the engine cooling passages and the rest of the cooling system of any mineral build up? If you have please let me know your results.
Thanks
Jorge Garcia
65 BJ8

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Aug 10 21:23:35 2008
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2008 20:23:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
Message-ID: <001101c8fb61$a40660a0$5201a8c0@Jim>

out cruising with the frau this evening burning $4.00 a gallon gasoline and
enjoying it immensely when i noticed the dreaded no charge light was on.  I
DID NOT PANIC.  I calmly stated that andy rooney was coming on in a few
minutes and i wanted to see it.  i knew not to mention any kind of problem,
having paid the price before.  when safely ensconced in the garage, i did a
quick troubleshoot.  no loose wires or belts.  the  light does not come on
when turning on ignition and will not begin to flicker until slightly above
idle, then comes on bright.  any help appreciated before i begin the involved
troubleshoot.  hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 21:28:54 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:28:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <001101c8fb61$a40660a0$5201a8c0@Jim>
References: <001101c8fb61$a40660a0$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808102028r43dfc434r8cc1a5b73f899a72@mail.gmail.com>

James -

Pop open the cover of your voltage regulator.  It sounds to me like one of
the two (or three for BJ8) cut out contacts has fused together or melted
inside, giving a constant circuit.  Sometimes you can fix this by prying the
contacts apart and filing them down a bit, and adjusting them a little.
Other times you have to replace the whole box.

Be careful - you may be overcharging your battery - fix it before driving
again.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 11:23 AM, James Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>wrote:

> out cruising with the frau this evening burning $4.00 a gallon gasoline and
> enjoying it immensely when i noticed the dreaded no charge light was on.  I
> DID NOT PANIC.  I calmly stated that andy rooney was coming on in a few
> minutes and i wanted to see it.  i knew not to mention any kind of problem,
> having paid the price before.  when safely ensconced in the garage, i did a
> quick troubleshoot.  no loose wires or belts.  the  light does not come on
> when turning on ignition and will not begin to flicker until slightly above
> idle, then comes on bright.  any help appreciated before i begin the
> involved
> troubleshoot.  hjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 10 22:20:16 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:20:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis / Sub chassis restoration question??
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808102120i104ba4adt739ce57ee2c5dd88@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -

I assume Jack Aakerlin can answer this but here goes -

I am considering taking my beloved BJ8 and stripping it down to the chassis
and rebuilding her.  The big question for me is whether to keep the old
chassis and fix it properly, or just go for a new Kilmartin Chassis and put
the Front End and Rear End assemblies on the new chassis.

The reason for going with a new Chassis is at some point about 30 years ago
the left front clip was hit hard and the whole front left chassis rail was
repaired very poorly.  When I did my ground up restoration on the car in
1985 (I was in college) I did not have the money at that time to deal with
it, so I left it.

The left front chassis rail is 1) repaired poorly and 2) bent in the back
behind the repair section.  This means to fix it properly I will have to cut
the front left chassis rail off all the way back to the passenger
compartment right before the chassis cross... not ideal.

My question is... if I go with a whole new Kilmartin Chassis, is it
difficult to line up the front end and rear end assemblies properly on the
chassis, or is that a pretty easy job?  My rear end sub-assembly is in good
shape and the front end sub-assembly is in pretty good shape except for the
front left side.

Will I need a jig or is it all pretty simply done with measurements and
minimal rigging to put the sub assemblies on the chassis?

You can assume I will have the old chassis by the side, so I will be able to
compare the old chassis with the new chassis as the work is done.

I'd like to go with a new chassis, but if it's easier to save the old one, I
will consider that as well.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 11 05:24:54 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:24:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis / Sub chassis restoration question??
References: <ff59076c0808102120i104ba4adt739ce57ee2c5dd88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801c8fba4$e211e110$c331e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Wow,  You have a ton of work a head.    I always thought these new frames 
came complete
with frame and tub all in one.   At least that is how the Jule frame is 
pictured.
In my humble opinion that would be the way to go.   Then just swap over most 
of the usable
parts.   Other wise it would seem like allignment would be a night mare.

Mark

t
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 12:20 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis / Sub chassis restoration question??


> Hi All -
>
> I assume Jack Aakerlin can answer this but here goes -
>
> I am considering taking my beloved BJ8 and stripping it down to the 
> chassis
> and rebuilding her.  The big question for me is whether to keep the old
> chassis and fix it properly, or just go for a new Kilmartin Chassis and 
> put
> the Front End and Rear End assemblies on the new chassis.
>
> The reason for going with a new Chassis is at some point about 30 years 
> ago
> the left front clip was hit hard and the whole front left chassis rail was
> repaired very poorly.  When I did my ground up restoration on the car in
> 1985 (I was in college) I did not have the money at that time to deal with
> it, so I left it.
>
> The left front chassis rail is 1) repaired poorly and 2) bent in the back
> behind the repair section.  This means to fix it properly I will have to 
> cut
> the front left chassis rail off all the way back to the passenger
> compartment right before the chassis cross... not ideal.
>
> My question is... if I go with a whole new Kilmartin Chassis, is it
> difficult to line up the front end and rear end assemblies properly on the
> chassis, or is that a pretty easy job?  My rear end sub-assembly is in 
> good
> shape and the front end sub-assembly is in pretty good shape except for 
> the
> front left side.
>
> Will I need a jig or is it all pretty simply done with measurements and
> minimal rigging to put the sub assemblies on the chassis?
>
> You can assume I will have the old chassis by the side, so I will be able 
> to
> compare the old chassis with the new chassis as the work is done.
>
> I'd like to go with a new chassis, but if it's easier to save the old one, 
> I
> will consider that as well.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From racarbon at optonline.net  Mon Aug 11 05:40:00 2008
From: racarbon at optonline.net (Ray Carbone)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:40:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator fo BJ 8
Message-ID: <8E2919797C1249AC8F317275782DE8C2@RAC>

Hi All,

Sorry I didn't post this sooner.  At different times I have installed both a 65 amp (more than sufficient) 10-SI and a 105 amp (ridiculous) CS130 Delco alternators on my BJ8 and found both to be effective.  I have also found the easiest and most economical way to mount these units, without modification to the alternator housing, was to install a double pulley on the alternator to gain the forward spacing necessary for belt alignment.  This installation approach allows the use of the existing Healey generator engine mounting bracket and only requires the addition of a length of 3/8" pipe as a spacer and a single long bolt (fitted through the distributor side) to secure the unit.  

Additionally, a longer universal belt adjuster was required and obtained from the internet.  The original adjuster was removed and the new unit was installed on the inner side (opposite of the original) of the original location with a new bolt and properly spaced with washers.  This placement allowed the new adjuster to secure proper belt tension and attached to the alternator on the inside of the mounting ear (rather than the pulley side} to eliminate any chance of cooling fin interference.

The benefits of this mounting approach are simplicity (few components), cost of under $40 (the double pulley - 3/8" or 1/2" cost approx $12 and the adjuster $10 plus shipping along with pipe and bolt from Home Depot for $6).  Also, the alternator is mounted the way it was designed and with no modifications to any component.  The best part, I painted the components with Healey engine paint (as was the original generator) and the installation looks natural.

You can obtain the double pulley you need (3/8" or 1/2"), the alternator, and the adjustor from Wayne Weitzel at Weitzel Garage (419-668-2844 or on eBay at   http://stores.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor_W0QQ_trksidZp284.m184QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4     (no financial connection).  If you order the alternator, call him and ask him to mount the double pulley so you don't have the added task.  Wayne is a pleasant and helpful person and I have found his prices very competitive.

I hope this helps.

All the best,

Ray Carbone '64 BJ8 original owner

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 08:31:10 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:31:10 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Reversed Distributor
Message-ID: <cf3.3c3a5f2a.35d1a72e@aol.com>

All,
 
I went to see a BT7 over the weekend which was being sold locally, and the  
distributor was installed 180 out (i.e. the spark advance was pointing towards  
the front of the car and the wires were pointing towards the firewall) I wish 
I  had gotten a picture to share. I had always been told that a car wouldn't 
run  that way. Can you make it run by just changing the order of the wires?
 
Thanks,
 
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Aug 11 08:45:58 2008
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 09:45:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis / Sub chassis restoration question??
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808102120i104ba4adt739ce57ee2c5dd88@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0808102120i104ba4adt739ce57ee2c5dd88@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE604003E8B@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi Alan.  Having been there and TRIED that, the thought of piecing
together a chassis is a real red flag to me.  I'd absolutely go with an
entire unit if you're asking for advice.  I'm assuming your car is in
Hong Kong....??  If so, I guess a Kilmartin is the easiest thing for you
to obtain.  I have built and/or been connected with three Healeys near
me that have the Jule chassis and have seen numerous others.  It is, in
my opinion, an outstanding replacement if you can cope with not having a
welded seam line top and bottom.
Regards,
Jack (Brashear, that is)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:20 PM
To: Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis / Sub chassis restoration question??

Hi All -

I assume Jack Aakerlin can answer this but here goes -

I am considering taking my beloved BJ8 and stripping it down to the
chassis
and rebuilding her.  The big question for me is whether to keep the old
chassis and fix it properly, or just go for a new Kilmartin Chassis and
put
the Front End and Rear End assemblies on the new chassis.

The reason for going with a new Chassis is at some point about 30 years
ago
the left front clip was hit hard and the whole front left chassis rail
was
repaired very poorly.  When I did my ground up restoration on the car in
1985 (I was in college) I did not have the money at that time to deal
with
it, so I left it.

The left front chassis rail is 1) repaired poorly and 2) bent in the
back
behind the repair section.  This means to fix it properly I will have to
cut
the front left chassis rail off all the way back to the passenger
compartment right before the chassis cross... not ideal.

My question is... if I go with a whole new Kilmartin Chassis, is it
difficult to line up the front end and rear end assemblies properly on
the
chassis, or is that a pretty easy job?  My rear end sub-assembly is in
good
shape and the front end sub-assembly is in pretty good shape except for
the
front left side.

Will I need a jig or is it all pretty simply done with measurements and
minimal rigging to put the sub assemblies on the chassis?

You can assume I will have the old chassis by the side, so I will be
able to
compare the old chassis with the new chassis as the work is done.

I'd like to go with a new chassis, but if it's easier to save the old
one, I
will consider that as well.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 09:12:58 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 23:12:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Reversed Distributor
In-Reply-To: <cf3.3c3a5f2a.35d1a72e@aol.com>
References: <cf3.3c3a5f2a.35d1a72e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808110812g41e5eee1oc1ab7c55bdf62ca6@mail.gmail.com>

Phil -

This is because the distributor drive gear in the car is installed
backwards.  This is a common mistake because there is only a very slight
offset and inexperienced mechanics will not know to look for the offset in
the distributor drive's gear (called a drive dog), and put it in backwards.

Look it up in your shop manual, it refers to the correct position as the
"twenty-two" position for the distributor drive gear.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 10:31 PM, <PhilRitten at aol.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I went to see a BT7 over the weekend which was being sold locally, and the
> distributor was installed 180 out (i.e. the spark advance was pointing
> towards
> the front of the car and the wires were pointing towards the firewall) I
> wish
> I  had gotten a picture to share. I had always been told that a car
> wouldn't
> run  that way. Can you make it run by just changing the order of the wires?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (
> http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 09:46:41 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:46:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] HELP! Electrical Problem
Message-ID: <48720d20808110846hddbae0bw6db851dd2f789fe2@mail.gmail.com>

The body shop called to tell me that my car was ready but they can't get it
started. They noticed the problem after the bead blaster did his work, but
left it until the paint job and re assembly was finished.

The lights work, they can get the starter to turn the engine over by
shorting out the solenoid, but nothing else works. No gauges, no starter
button, no clicking sound from the fuel pump. They checked the fuses and
cleaned the fuse box, and said the fuses were good.

Naturally they are a body shop and know nothing about Healeys. I made two
suggestions, one, the wire that is attached to the battery shut off switch,
and two, the wire that comes off the solenoid that passes the current to the
accessories and gauges.

Any other suggestions?

Jack

From Warthodson at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 10:37:12 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:37:12 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
Message-ID: <c1c.41856a48.35d1c4b8@aol.com>

A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis  Welch 
that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked if this is  
correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When did  they begin 
leaving off the hyphen?
Gary Hodson



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From bj7healey at gto.net  Mon Aug 11 10:58:45 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:58:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Front End Alignment
References: <395399847-1218291218-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-278733832-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<0CC7B82963354086AAD2258E1B4AB257@acer684c9a655d>
	<69dv94hujlb4n6qv9jkji241aa04pgutvs@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <916302A7DD164F0183C969A0BD49BDAC@acer684c9a655d>

Hi Roland
         The outside Vertical indicate a bubble level on vertical, The 
distance from top to bottom of the wheel is 16 " . The dimensions are the 
difference between top and bottom. I drove the car on to a level surface.
       The drivers side is aprox. 1 MM positive camber, the passenger side 
is aprox. 1 MM negative camber .
          Is this ok or do I have to get some Offset bushings and then 
adjust the camber. I have aprox.
   .05 " toe in according to the local garage.
                  Thanks  Bob

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:56 PM
To: "Rob" <bj7healey at gto.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bj7 Front End Alignment

> I hope someone has replied to you directly.  I don't see anything on
> the list emails.  So, here is something that might help you.
>
> I can't tell from your diagram what the vertical rectangles represent
> -- wheels?  rims? brake discs?  and I presume that you have rolled the
> car to this location and bounced the front end up and down (especially
> down) to locate the suspension where it would be operating normally.
> Then it's time for trigonometry.  You need to know the vertical
> distance you are using to measure the +/- 1mm deviations.  it could be
> 15" if you are using bare rims and measuring from top to bottom.
> Anyhow you need to determine the vertical distance and convert it to
> mm to match the deviation measurements.  Now you need to find the
> arctangent of 1/the vertical distance in mm.     for a wild guess
> let's say it is 380.  So 1/380 equals 0.00263 and arctan(.00263) is
> 0.15 degrees according to my calculator.  So you could call the camber
> zero degrees on each side by most measurements.  I don't think your
> actual vertical distance could be enough different from 380 mm to make
> any difference in the final conclusion that you have vertical wheels
> within measurement error.
>
> Are you getting bad tire wear or are you trying to adjust your camber
> for racing on flat roadways?  If not, I wouldn't worry about the
> camber, particularly since you can't adjust it easily.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 13:12:03 -0400, you wrote:
>
> ::Hi Guys
> ::      I have put a diagram at this web address to show how I am checking
> ::Camber alignment on my BJ7.
> ::
> :: 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/bj7healey/MyHealyAlignment/photo#5232935061031041170
> ::
> ::         Question 1    Am I doing this right
> ::         Question 2    Are These dimensions acceptable
> ::                             Thanks     Bob Slater
> ::_______________________________________________
> ::Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> ::
> ::Healeys at autox.team.net
> ::http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> ::
> ::You are subscribed as rwil at sbcglobal.net
> ::
> ::http://www.team.net/archive 

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Mon Aug 11 12:15:15 2008
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:15:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
References: <c1c.41856a48.35d1c4b8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002301c8fbde$341f5800$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>

Gary,
You sent me looking for my new MK2 badge where I discovered it had no 
hyphen. I checked 4 used that I have and one had no hyphen while 3 did, the 
one without came from car #208xx built in 08/62. However, the other 2 that I 
know the origin of came from later cars including my current project 238xx 
built in 04/63.
With all the possibilities for replacement over a 40 odd year history, I 
inclined to ignore the early replacement but will start to watch for the 
missing hyphen from now on.

Mal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 12:37 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge


>A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis 
>Welch
> that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked if this is
> correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When did  they 
> begin
> leaving off the hyphen?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.0/1604 - Release Date: 8/11/2008 
> 5:50 AM

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Mon Aug 11 15:11:29 2008
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 17:11:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heat shield parts - update
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNKEENCKAA.ed@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <05d101c8fbf6$d3858a50$6401a8c0@universal1>

    The metal shield for the twin-carb is spoken for.

    I have had a chance to more closely look at the fibre-board heat shield
sections;

    There are two of them wrapped up in plastic and stapled closed. The
outline very closely matches that shown on page 18 of the NEW Moss catalog for
Big Healeys (item #40).

    There is no shaped, metal center-sandwiched piece, only two flat fibre
sections.

    Sorry for any earlier confusion.

                                                                            C
B

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Mon Aug 11 15:13:15 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 23:13:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <c1c.41856a48.35d1c4b8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Gary,

afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll find
badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and 'Austin Healey
MK III'.

Best regards

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis
Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked if this
is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When did  they
begin leaving off the hyphen?
Gary Hodson

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Aug 11 15:45:09 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:45:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <c1c.41856a48.35d1c4b8@aol.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c8fbfb$86d49160$947db420$@rr.com>

I have a BJ7, chassis number 20111, that I rescued from some woods in
Virginia and that has been in storage for the last 25 years.  It's nose
badge (original, I would say) does have the hyphen.  It reads "Austin-Healey
Mk II"

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:13 PM
To: Warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

Gary,

afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll find
badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and 'Austin Healey
MK III'.

Best regards

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com

From quenty at ntelos.net  Mon Aug 11 16:29:36 2008
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 18:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>

I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
Dave and Daisy



On Aug 11, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:

> Gary,
>
> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll  
> find
> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and  
> 'Austin Healey
> MK III'.
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On  
> Behalf
> Of Warthodson at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>
> A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis
> Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked  
> if this
> is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When  
> did  they
> begin leaving off the hyphen?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 11 16:52:18 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:52:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <001101c8fb61$a40660a0$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <158148.88202.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

With the engine at a fast idle like 1400 rpm REMOVE one of the battery terminals if the engine stops it's not charging ...

                   
See A/H Magazine Jan 1996 OR Healey Marque Magazine Nov. 2005  OR my Tech Talk Book pages 158 & 243
          Norman Nock




--- On Sun, 8/10/08, James Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

> From: James Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
> To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, August 10, 2008, 8:23 PM
> out cruising with the frau this evening burning $4.00 a
> gallon gasoline and
> enjoying it immensely when i noticed the dreaded no charge
> light was on.  I
> DID NOT PANIC.  I calmly stated that andy rooney was coming
> on in a few
> minutes and i wanted to see it.  i knew not to mention any
> kind of problem,
> having paid the price before.  when safely ensconced in the
> garage, i did a
> quick troubleshoot.  no loose wires or belts.  the  light
> does not come on
> when turning on ignition and will not begin to flicker
> until slightly above
> idle, then comes on bright.  any help appreciated before i
> begin the involved
> troubleshoot.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Mon Aug 11 16:58:43 2008
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 18:58:43 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] heat shield parts - update
Message-ID: <cd0.25b4cf37.35d21e23@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/11/2008 5:13:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
cbaustin at verizon.net writes:

The  outline very closely matches that shown on page 18 of the NEW Moss 
catalog  for
Big Healeys (item #40).



Hi-
 
Per your information it would appear that these are the asbestos pieces for  
a tri-carb heat shield.
 
M.S.Brantley,  Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. &  Delegate



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 11 17:46:33 2008
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 16:46:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] $13k 100-6
Message-ID: <176724.97740.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Saw this one on bringatrailer.com.
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/786682420.html  Might be worth checking
out if you're in the area.  No financial interest, etc.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Mon Aug 11 18:27:52 2008
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 00:27:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] New frame
Message-ID: <081220080027.23266.48A0D9080003EC0C00005AE2219791280203010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>

Just had my BT7 tore down and find the frame bent in several directions from
previous front end collision and rusted to boot. Have been thinking about a Jule
or Kilmarten frame and chassi. Any pros or cons regarding these two options?

--
Tim Davis BN7

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 11 20:05:31 2008
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] New frame
In-Reply-To: <081220080027.23266.48A0D9080003EC0C00005AE2219791280203010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <665441.48349.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

You might want to consider price, guarantee, references and how many years the
company has been making their product.
Also the quality of the product.


Happy Healeying,
 Marty
www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Mon, 8/11/08, tld6008 at mchsi.com <tld6008 at mchsi.com> wrote:

From: tld6008 at mchsi.com <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
Subject: [Healeys] New frame
To: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Received: Monday, August 11, 2008, 8:27 PM

Just had my BT7 tore down and find the frame bent in several directions from
previous front end collision and rusted to boot. Have been thinking about a
Jule
or Kilmarten frame and chassi. Any pros or cons regarding these two options?

--
Tim Davis BN7
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Aug 11 20:21:15 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:21:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <c1c.41856a48.35d1c4b8@aol.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W1559D791AEBD6C5F6BE55CAD700@phx.gbl>

My BJ7 built between August 2-17th 1962 has the original front badge which
reads
Austin-Healey
3000 MKII
Bill
BJ7 (what else!)



> From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com> To: Warthodson at aol.com;
healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 23:13:15 +0200> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] BJ7 badge> > Gary,> > afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II.
In other words you'll find> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey
MK II' and 'Austin Healey> MK III'.> > Best regards> > Eric>
http://brits-n-pieces.com>

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Aug 12 00:18:22 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:18:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Quote from Clausager:

"On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted, and a new
badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script on a red
background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading '3000
MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin Healey' was not
hyphenated."

Best regards

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com

-----Original Message-----
From: David Schweninger [mailto:quenty at ntelos.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:30 AM
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com; Healey Mail List
Cc: David Schweninger
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
Dave and Daisy



On Aug 11, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:

> Gary,
>
> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll 
> find badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and 
> 'Austin Healey MK III'.
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> http://brits-n-pieces.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Aug 12 02:31:32 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 02:31:32 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] $13k 100-6
In-Reply-To: <176724.97740.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNAEGMCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Saw this one on bringatrailer.com.
http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/786682420.html  Might be worth checking
out if you're in the area.>>

Cool, Rick !!

And nice ORG MGB Luggage Rack<G>!!!

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue Aug 12 02:22:47 2008
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:22:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

 On the early MK IIs the original badge was hyphenated. There was a change
somewhere late 1962/early 1963. Clausager is wrong on that. All aftermarket MK
II badges you can get are not hyphenated. So all hyphenated badges you can see
on the cars are original ones. My 1962 BT7 has a hyphenated one, beautifully
restored by PAMELA DAVID ENAMELS.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
100BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
von Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
Gesendet: Dienstag, 12. August 2008 08:18
An: 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List'
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

Quote from Clausager:

"On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted, and a new
badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script on a red
background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading '3000
MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin Healey' was not
hyphenated."

Best regards

Eric

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Tue Aug 12 05:27:26 2008
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:27:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] $13k 100-6
Message-ID: <cd3.3cb584e7.35d2cd9e@aol.com>

We have a new employee at work. One of the office clerks told me she was  
feeling kind of ostracized and asked me to invite her to join my morning  coffee 
and solve the problems of the world discussion group so we reached out to  
invite her to join us.
 
Tends to babble about household projects etc but nice enough. The other day  
her discussion was about cleaning a deceased in-laws house in preparation for  
sale, we listened politely.
 
As we were preparing to leave she said they were almost finished cleaning  
the house. That's nice.
 
Only one problem remains with the house, what to do with the Austin Healey  
that has been in the garage for 35 years.
 
I explained to her it was her lucky day and welcome to the group.
 
 
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 06:19:26 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:19:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <48A17FCE.6020602@comcast.net>

My BT7 Mk.II has the hyphen.



Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:
> Gary,
>
> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll find
> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and 'Austin Healey
> MK III'.
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Warthodson at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>
> A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis
> Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked if this
> is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When did  they
> begin leaving off the hyphen?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 06:21:28 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:21:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <48A18048.4090509@comcast.net>

Maybe we can find the change-over point.  My BT7 is earlier at 16323.

David Schweninger wrote:
> I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
> Dave and Daisy
>
>
>
> On Aug 11, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:
>
>   
>> Gary,
>>
>> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words you'll  
>> find
>> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and  
>> 'Austin Healey
>> MK III'.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> Eric
>> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On  
>> Behalf
>> Of Warthodson at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>>
>> A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis
>> Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He asked  
>> if this
>> is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When  
>> did  they
>> begin leaving off the hyphen?
>> Gary Hodson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 12 07:17:19 2008
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:17:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
Message-ID: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>

Does anybody from Maine (or anywhere else for that matter) know if British
Parts Connection in Bangor is still in business? The number I have,
207-990-3422, is not in service and I can't find a web site. If they are still
in business can you provide contact information?

Thanks

Rick
_________________________________________________________________
Find hidden words, unscramble celebrity names, or try the ultimate crossword
puzzle with Live Search Games. Play now!

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Tue Aug 12 07:26:52 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:26:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>

May be out of business. Apparently they had a web site www.thebpc.com at one
time (found it on an old search site) but that has been taken down.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Rick Swain
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 9:17 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection

Does anybody from Maine (or anywhere else for that matter) know if British
Parts Connection in Bangor is still in business? The number I have,
207-990-3422, is not in service and I can't find a web site. If they are
still
in business can you provide contact information?

Thanks

Rick

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Tue Aug 12 07:31:58 2008
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:31:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
Message-ID: <BLU133-DS707F5EAB8828B48CFED31E9700@phx.gbl>

Out of curiosity, has anyone out there up-rated their steering worm and peg to
the Denis Welch products.  I am planning this as a winter project.

Thanks.

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 12 07:33:13 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 21:33:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
In-Reply-To: <00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
	<00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808120633k16c519fft194aa29d65e19e89@mail.gmail.com>

I found this on the web archive.  Looks like they closed a couple years
back:

http://web.archive.org/web/20040926070210/http://thebpc.com/

FYI the web archive is a great resource.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 9:26 PM, John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net> wrote:

> May be out of business. Apparently they had a web site www.thebpc.com at
> one
> time (found it on an old search site) but that has been taken down.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6 <healeys-bounces%2Bahbn6>=optonline.net@
> autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Rick Swain
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 9:17 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
>
> Does anybody from Maine (or anywhere else for that matter) know if British
> Parts Connection in Bangor is still in business? The number I have,
> 207-990-3422, is not in service and I can't find a web site. If they are
> still
> in business can you provide contact information?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 07:34:59 2008
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:34:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
In-Reply-To: <00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
	<00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
Message-ID: <48A19183.3060402@comcast.net>

The business has been closed.

John Sims wrote:
> May be out of business. Apparently they had a web site www.thebpc.com at one
> time (found it on an old search site) but that has been taken down.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Rick Swain
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 9:17 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
>
> Does anybody from Maine (or anywhere else for that matter) know if British
> Parts Connection in Bangor is still in business? The number I have,
> 207-990-3422, is not in service and I can't find a web site. If they are
> still
> in business can you provide contact information?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 07:50:51 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:50:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48A1953B.1040601@comcast.net>

Rick,
I used to buy parts from Dick Burger, but he decided to stop the parts 
business and concentrate on family matters.  I haven't heard of him 
starting up again.  I've since changed to Little British Car Co who give 
similar discounts on Moss and VB prices, have a website to order 
electronically, and do a very good job.
Charlie Baldwin

Rick Swain wrote:
> Does anybody from Maine (or anywhere else for that matter) know if British
> Parts Connection in Bangor is still in business? The number I have,
> 207-990-3422, is not in service and I can't find a web site. If they are still
> in business can you provide contact information?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find hidden words, unscramble celebrity names, or try the ultimate crossword
> puzzle with Live Search Games. Play now!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Tue Aug 12 08:17:15 2008
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:17:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] AH 100 Front windshield origin... :-)
Message-ID: <000001c8fc86$2070f4f0$0300a8c0@tm4>

I am always curious where parts come from, so when I ordered my windshield
from AH Spares I got a product coming from Nordglass (www.nordglass.pl), a
Polish manufacturer.. The windshield was ordered by another company called
UROGLAS (www.uroglas.com) in UK. They, I believe, sold it to AH Spares..

So, after a bit of traveling, the windshield ended up back in Poland.. 

Funny they way globalization works..

Tadek
'56 BN2
Poland

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Tue Aug 12 08:20:06 2008
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:20:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DC50E543D7544E12994220D8D8D15068@atc0f226cd3237>

Rick, I recall them going out of business a few years ago. Very nice guy, 
but he told me on the phone he was giving it up.

== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.1/1607 - Release Date: 8/12/2008 7:19 AM

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Aug 12 08:28:20 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:28:20 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  BJ7 badge
Message-ID: <cd5.373d9919.35d2f804@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: Warthodson
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Sent: 8/12/2008  9:27:16 A.M. Central Daylight Time
Subj: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge


Eric, 
I have an original MkII badge with a hyphen, but apparently not all  MkII's 
had hyphens. I am curious if it is known when the change  occurred.
Gary Hodson 
 
 
In a message dated 8/11/2008 4:13:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
lists at brits-n-pieces.com writes:

Gary,

afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other  words you'll find
badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK  II' and 'Austin Healey
MK III'.

Best  regards

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com

-----Original  Message-----
From:  healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net]  On Behalf
Of Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37  PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

A  friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from  Dennis
Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He  asked if this
is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this  list.  When did  they
begin leaving off the hyphen?
Gary  Hodson






 
____________________________________
 Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? _Read reviews 
on AOL  Autos_ 
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017) .





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From edriver at sasktel.net  Tue Aug 12 08:52:50 2008
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:52:50 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
References: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <48A1A3C2.5060006@sasktel.net>

Josef is correct.  I was looking at my friends early MK II last  
evening, hyphenated and in beautiful
nick -never been replaced and a very low mileage car.

Regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Historian, AHCUSA
53 BN1 65 BJ8  89 Morgan 4/4

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
>  On the early MK IIs the original badge was hyphenated. There was a change
> somewhere late 1962/early 1963. Clausager is wrong on that. All aftermarket MK
> II badges you can get are not hyphenated. So all hyphenated badges you can see
> on the cars are original ones. My 1962 BT7 has a hyphenated one, beautifully
> restored by PAMELA DAVID ENAMELS.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> 100BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
> von Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 12. August 2008 08:18
> An: 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List'
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>
> Quote from Clausager:
>
> "On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted, and a new
> badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script on a red
> background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading '3000
> MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin Healey' was not
> hyphenated."
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Aug 12 08:54:28 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:54:28 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
Message-ID: <d08.3f7ddc93.35d2fe24@aol.com>

Yes, I did. It is hard to say how much, if any, improvement it made because  
I rebuilt the entire front suspension, so every thing is either new or 
rebushed.  Obviously, the steering is much improved now, but there is still some free 
play  in the steering wheel, which I was hoping would be gone. Two other 
friends  have also rebuilt there steering recently, one also used the Denis Welch  
products. I would say that the Denis Welch product results in a slightly more 
 precise feel, but it does not transform the feel into a rack & pinion. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 8/12/2008 8:32:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
bj8Healey at msn.com writes:

Out of  curiosity, has anyone out there up-rated their steering worm and peg 
to
the  Denis Welch products.  I am planning this as a winter  project.

Thanks.

Jim Sailer
66  BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Tue Aug 12 09:00:32 2008
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:00:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
References: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
	<48A1A3C2.5060006@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <001201c8fc8c$2beca850$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>

I've seen too many BJ7's with the hyphen to believe it was anytime before 
late BJ7 production.

Mal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
To: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>; <eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge


> Josef is correct.  I was looking at my friends early MK II last
> evening, hyphenated and in beautiful
> nick -never been replaced and a very low mileage car.
>
> Regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> Historian, AHCUSA
> 53 BN1 65 BJ8  89 Morgan 4/4
>
> Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
>>  On the early MK IIs the original badge was hyphenated. There was a 
>> change
>> somewhere late 1962/early 1963. Clausager is wrong on that. All 
>> aftermarket MK
>> II badges you can get are not hyphenated. So all hyphenated badges you 
>> can see
>> on the cars are original ones. My 1962 BT7 has a hyphenated one, 
>> beautifully
>> restored by PAMELA DAVID ENAMELS.
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>> Konigswinter/Germany
>> 100BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im 
>> Auftrag
>> von Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
>> Gesendet: Dienstag, 12. August 2008 08:18
>> An: 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List'
>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>>
>> Quote from Clausager:
>>
>> "On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted, and a 
>> new
>> badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script on a 
>> red
>> background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading '3000
>> MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin Healey' was 
>> not
>> hyphenated."
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> Eric
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.1/1607 - Release Date: 8/12/2008 
> 7:19 AM

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 12 09:03:58 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:03:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <894E02E8-9FD4-425D-B8CD-F81A717AC970@sbcglobal.net>

I have two original badges sitting here in front of me. The MK111  
badge there is no hyphen, the MK 11 badge there is a hyphen.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 11, 2008, at 11:18 PM, Brits'n'Pieces ((Eric Frenken)) wrote:

> Quote from Clausager:
>
> "On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted,  
> and a new
> badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script  
> on a red
> background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading  
> '3000
> MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin  
> Healey' was not
> hyphenated."
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Schweninger [mailto:quenty at ntelos.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:30 AM
> To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com; Healey Mail List
> Cc: David Schweninger
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>
> I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
> Dave and Daisy
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 12 09:18:35 2008
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:18:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] British Parts Connection
In-Reply-To: <00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
References: <BAY112-W460E5E5CB4010A351F688BB5700@phx.gbl>
	<00d301c8fc7f$150bf350$3f23d9f0$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W40B1D7D72209E1E9A52B8BB5700@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for the info on The British Parts Connection. They are
obviously out of business. I was considering a purchase of some large parts
and thought that by getting them from a dealer in Maine I could make a trip to
the shop and save on shipping costs. Not worthwhile for a dealer farther away
from Nova Scotia.

Cheers

Rick



_________________________________________________________________
Try Chicktionary, a game that tests how many words you can form from the
letters given. Find this and more puzzles at Live Search Games!

From quenty at ntelos.net  Tue Aug 12 09:24:09 2008
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:24:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <48A18048.4090509@comcast.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
	<48A18048.4090509@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <52B370AA-EF2E-4E53-8D4E-9FCBD1540F07@ntelos.net>

Charlie,
That would be interesting. We should include the build date. I'm not  
sure the car number always tracks the build date.
Daisy was built  13 - 14 March 1962.

  As I am nearing completion of a frame up restoration, I can't  
understand how in hell they put this thing together in two days.

Dave and Daisy


On Aug 12, 2008, at 8:21 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:

> Maybe we can find the change-over point.  My BT7 is earlier at 16323.
>
> David Schweninger wrote:
>> I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
>> Dave and Daisy
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 11, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Gary,
>>>
>>> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words  
>>> you'll  find
>>> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and   
>>> 'Austin Healey
>>> MK III'.
>>>
>>> Best regards
>>>
>>> Eric
>>> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
>>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net]  
>>> On  Behalf
>>> Of Warthodson at aol.com
>>> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>>>
>>> A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from  
>>> Dennis
>>> Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He  
>>> asked  if this
>>> is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When   
>>> did  they
>>> begin leaving off the hyphen?
>>> Gary Hodson
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>
> <mgcharlie.vcf>

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Aug 12 09:27:07 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:27:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Age old leather question
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502171@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I am getting my leather redyed and receiving a lot of push back from the
experienced upholsterer that is repairing straps and recovering a couple
of pieces. He says that all rejuvenator oil formulations are a waste of
time. To save time, I am also using an experienced dye guy and he also
doesn't want to apply dye over the rejuventator oil.
Does anyone understand the chemistry involved with the rejuvenator
stuff? Most of the websites are testimonials that it "works". It would
seem to me that leather is dead cells and some oil is actually damaging
the surface fibers resulting in more flexibility. The upholsterer and I
got somewhat the same effect by kneading the surfaces. What does oil
really do to the cells?

Thanks,
Ken

From davzu29 at cox.net  Tue Aug 12 09:44:28 2008
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:44:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle seal
Message-ID: <002201c8fc92$4e8457e0$6701a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

I've just noticed what appears to be a fluid leak coming from the right rear
shaft on my BJ8. I haven't had to add any brake fluid, so I'm unsure if it's
brake fluid or oil. If it's brake fluid, I'd expect a wheel cylinder rebuild
would be in order, which wouldn't be big a deal, but but what if it's an oil
seal? Is that a big deal to replace? TIA

David Z.

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 09:43:39 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:43:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <52B370AA-EF2E-4E53-8D4E-9FCBD1540F07@ntelos.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAPQ1bW7gcQJJvJWj+vpOmRMBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net>
	<48A18048.4090509@comcast.net>
	<52B370AA-EF2E-4E53-8D4E-9FCBD1540F07@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <48A1AFAB.6020600@comcast.net>

David,
It seems that mine is quite a few cars or months before the changeover, 
so exact dates don't really matter.  As I recall, it left the factory in 
late November or early December of 1961.
Charlie

David Schweninger wrote:
> Charlie,
> That would be interesting. We should include the build date. I'm not 
> sure the car number always tracks the build date.
> Daisy was built  13 - 14 March 1962.
>
>  As I am nearing completion of a frame up restoration, I can't 
> understand how in hell they put this thing together in two days.
>
> Dave and Daisy
>
>
> On Aug 12, 2008, at 8:21 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
>
>> Maybe we can find the change-over point.  My BT7 is earlier at 16323.
>>
>> David Schweninger wrote:
>>> I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
>>> Dave and Daisy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 11, 2008, at 5:13 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Gary,
>>>>
>>>> afaik the hyphen was left off with the MK II. In other words 
>>>> you'll  find
>>>> badges just saying 'Austin-Healey', 'Austin Healey MK II' and  
>>>> 'Austin Healey
>>>> MK III'.
>>>>
>>>> Best regards
>>>>
>>>> Eric
>>>> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
>>>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] 
>>>> On  Behalf
>>>> Of Warthodson at aol.com
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 6:37 PM
>>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>>>>
>>>> A friend recently received a repro. MKII badge for his BJ7 from Dennis
>>>> Welch that does not have the hyphen between Austin Healey. He 
>>>> asked  if this
>>>> is correct. I told him I  would check it out on this list.  When  
>>>> did  they
>>>> begin leaving off the hyphen?
>>>> Gary Hodson
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> You are subscribed as quenty at ntelos.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>> <mgcharlie.vcf>

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Aug 12 09:36:58 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:36:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Age old leather question
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502171@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502171@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <7EA48B9F-5E12-434B-A25E-BAED29D882DE@cox.net>

I'm not a chemist, but the explaination I got  is that trying to dye  
over rejuvinator stuff is like trying to paint over silicone. (in some  
cases that is exactly what you are doing)

The oils lubricate and moisturize. kneading helps as it gets the stiff  
parts moving again. The leather gets like a stiff starchy fabric. once  
you start breaking those dried starch clumps, it allows the "fabric"  
to move again.

Wilko

On Aug 12, 2008, at 8:27 AM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> I am getting my leather redyed and receiving a lot of push back from  
> the
> experienced upholsterer that is repairing straps and recovering a  
> couple
> of pieces. He says that all rejuvenator oil formulations are a waste  
> of
> time. To save time, I am also using an experienced dye guy and he also
> doesn't want to apply dye over the rejuventator oil.
> Does anyone understand the chemistry involved with the rejuvenator
> stuff? Most of the websites are testimonials that it "works". It would
> seem to me that leather is dead cells and some oil is actually  
> damaging
> the surface fibers resulting in more flexibility. The upholsterer  
> and I
> got somewhat the same effect by kneading the surfaces. What does oil
> really do to the cells?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 10:19:21 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:19:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle seal
Message-ID: <081220081619.1005.48A1B8090006D976000003ED220702155304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

David,


Just did this on both my rear hubs.  You have to:

1) extract the axle
2) pull the hub (can be done with large, three-legged puller and a hammer head in the axle hole)
3) press out bearing and remove seal
4) press in new seal and bearing
5) re-install hub.  This is the tricky part; theoretically, you need an axle press (who has one of those???).  I used dry ice to cool the axle and I carefully warmed the hub in an oven.  Then, I tapped the hubs home with a steel tube as drift.  Not an ideal solution, but best I could do.


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "David Z" <davzu29 at cox.net>
> I've just noticed what appears to be a fluid leak coming from the right rear
> shaft on my BJ8. I haven't had to add any brake fluid, so I'm unsure if it's
> brake fluid or oil. If it's brake fluid, I'd expect a wheel cylinder rebuild
> would be in order, which wouldn't be big a deal, but but what if it's an oil
> seal? Is that a big deal to replace? TIA
> 
> David Z.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Aug 12 10:57:23 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 17:57:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <48A1A3C2.5060006@sasktel.net>
References: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
	<48A1A3C2.5060006@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <FB2E22BF16AA4E62A1A93E45CE3D3858@company92305fb>

I have a latish(?) MkII BT7, centre shift. Original badge, hyphenated.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of E.A. Driver
Sent: 12 August 2008 15:53
To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net; eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

Josef is correct.  I was looking at my friends early MK II last  
evening, hyphenated and in beautiful
nick -never been replaced and a very low mileage car.

Regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Historian, AHCUSA
53 BN1 65 BJ8  89 Morgan 4/4

Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote:
>  On the early MK IIs the original badge was hyphenated. There was a change
> somewhere late 1962/early 1963. Clausager is wrong on that. All
aftermarket MK
> II badges you can get are not hyphenated. So all hyphenated badges you can
see
> on the cars are original ones. My 1962 BT7 has a hyphenated one,
beautifully
> restored by PAMELA DAVID ENAMELS.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> 100BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag
> von Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 12. August 2008 08:18
> An: 'David Schweninger'; 'Healey Mail List'
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
>
> Quote from Clausager:
>
> "On the Mark II and Mark III models, the grille badge was deleted, and a
new
> badge was fitted above the grille, with the 'Austin Healey' script on a
red
> background and a winged surround, and a smaller badge below reading '3000
> MKII' or '3000 MKIII'. On this later style of badge, 'Austin Healey' was
not
> hyphenated."
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as edriver at sasktel.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk

http://www.team.net/archive

From rapoague at comcast.net  Tue Aug 12 11:07:45 2008
From: rapoague at comcast.net (Bob Poague)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 10:07:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  BJ7 badge
References: <cd5.373d9919.35d2f804@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004e01c8fc9d$f41793b0$9202e862@D8400>

I have BJ7 22114, built 16-17 January 1963. The badge, which I believe to be
original, has the hyphen.

Bob

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Tue Aug 12 12:03:44 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:03:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Jensen-cars] Age old leather question
In-Reply-To: <702276DD15CBB54DBA32D70F65EF8DE8015B2BFA@EXCHGS1.TPI-NA.COM>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502171@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<466C0229B0E74529A9FCFDF18BEE0A94@KERSOEPC>
	<702276DD15CBB54DBA32D70F65EF8DE8015B2BFA@EXCHGS1.TPI-NA.COM>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D0150217A@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Frank,
So in your case, applying dye over rejuvenator stuff was not a problem?
Ken

From bj8Healey at msn.com  Tue Aug 12 12:19:59 2008
From: bj8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:19:59 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
In-Reply-To: <d08.3f7ddc93.35d2fe24@aol.com>
References: <d08.3f7ddc93.35d2fe24@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU133-DS14AA10C9B618E4FBD8373E9700@phx.gbl>

Hi Gary,

Thanks.  I have about 1.5 inches of free play in my wheel .. and a bit of
wander depending upon surface (and tire pressure) .... I feel I am correcting
quite a bit through the looseness of the box .. not sure if this will help or
not .. My bushings are all good, as well as the rod ends .. it is a box thing
in my case.
I hate to throw good money away if this is not the ticket ...

Jim Sailer


From: Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 8:54 AM
To: bj8Healey at msn.com ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering


Yes, I did. It is hard to say how much, if any, improvement it made because I
rebuilt the entire front suspension, so every thing is either new or rebushed.
Obviously, the steering is much improved now, but there is still some free
play in the steering wheel, which I was hoping would be gone. Two other
friends have also rebuilt there steering recently, one also used the Denis
Welch products. I would say that the Denis Welch product results in a slightly
more precise feel, but it does not transform the feel into a rack & pinion.
Gary Hodson

In a message dated 8/12/2008 8:32:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
bj8Healey at msn.com writes:
  Out of curiosity, has anyone out there up-rated their steering worm and peg
to
  the Denis Welch products.  I am planning this as a winter project.

  Thanks.

  Jim Sailer
  66 BJ8
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

  Healeys at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  You are subscribed as warthodson at aol.com

  http://www.team.net/archive






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on
AOL Autos.

From bstarke at telus.net  Tue Aug 12 12:28:33 2008
From: bstarke at telus.net (bstarke at telus.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:28:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
References: <C39D4E30-B66F-4911-BCFD-AFCFBE871733@ntelos.net><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKFxoHEkul1LhzkrxV5CLXABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750048DA09C@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com><48A1A3C2.5060006@sasktel.net>
	<001201c8fc8c$2beca850$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>
Message-ID: <1921E744B4FF4F82A43E492CCAE234E5@homeef0oqjjyyd>

My BJ7  # 20449 has the original hyphenated badge
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
>
> I've seen too many BJ7's with the hyphen to believe it was anytime before
> late BJ7 production.
>
> Mal

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Tue Aug 12 12:54:51 2008
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:54:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard Fasteners
Message-ID: <C4C72A8B.5A3D%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

On both sides of the center of the dashboard on the BJ8 there are fasteners
between the glove box and center and the instrument cluster and center.

What kind of fasteners are they.  Screws, nuts and bolts??  What size?  The
are inserted from under the front edge of the dash.

Michael Hartfield
BJ8

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Tue Aug 12 13:21:10 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:21:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Help Electrical Problem Now Resolved
Message-ID: <48720d20808121221h6c757369v1ea4d781671bbeae@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to the folks who suggested answers, and to Norman Nock who was
willing to talk the body shop through some diagnostics. ( Don't think they
called, but he was generous to offer his time and expertise).

The answer was a loose wire to the ignition switch. I wonder how that
happened?

Thanks again,

Jack

From davzu29 at cox.net  Tue Aug 12 13:30:50 2008
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:30:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard Fasteners
References: <C4C72A8B.5A3D%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <006001c8fcb1$edf5d0a0$6701a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

Are you describing the fasteners that attach the console to the underside of 
the dash? If that's the case, my car has 2 phillips head bolts on both 
sides. They're small, sorry can't tell you what size they are.

David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard Fasteners


> On both sides of the center of the dashboard on the BJ8 there are 
> fasteners
> between the glove box and center and the instrument cluster and center.
>
> What kind of fasteners are they.  Screws, nuts and bolts??  What size? 
> The
> are inserted from under the front edge of the dash.
>
> Michael Hartfield
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as davzu29 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From kit at henrymotorsports.com  Tue Aug 12 14:17:33 2008
From: kit at henrymotorsports.com (Kit Henry)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:17:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar For Sale
Message-ID: <002601c8fcb8$74b09250$030ba8c0@henryfce283bea>

The Jaguar that we have is now listed at
Item number: 270264906935

Former Healy Owner

Kit Henry

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Tue Aug 12 15:55:30 2008
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:55:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belt holes,  one or three?
Message-ID: <000601c8fcc6$238f09c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I noticed my old floorboards had three holes in the place I would expect to
hook the seatbelt (outside, back corner of the front seat).   Why three holes?
Seems like one would be enough.   This is for a late BJ8.

Jerry

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 12 17:03:25 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:03:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Seat belt holes,  one or three?
In-Reply-To: <000601c8fcc6$238f09c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <000601c8fcc6$238f09c0$0300a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <7E6DA05B-1978-4656-AFCB-A15672CD63D9@sbcglobal.net>

That was for two styles of styles of seat belts. One was a Eye bolt  
style and the other was a swivel style attachment	




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 12, 2008, at 2:55 PM, Jerry Costanzo wrote:

> I noticed my old floorboards had three holes in the place I would  
> expect to
> hook the seatbelt (outside, back corner of the front seat).   Why  
> three holes?
> Seems like one would be enough.   This is for a late BJ8.
>
> Jerry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Aug 12 17:42:31 2008
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 19:42:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge (serial number)
Message-ID: <48A21FE7.50006@wowway.com>

> I have BN7 II 18440. The original badge says "Austin-Healey MK II.
> Dave and Daisy

Hello Dave,
Just read your post on the list and your serial number sounded familiar 
so I looked at my Heritage Trust Cert and my number is 18443.  My BN7 Mk 
II was originally white with black interior...just wondering if the 
factory painted them in groups.  What was your original color?
Regards,
Dan

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Aug 12 17:59:02 2008
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 19:59:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
Message-ID: <48A223C6.2080108@wowway.com>

> Daisy was built  13 - 14 March 1962.

Dave,
My BN7 Mk II was built 13-16 March 1962.  I'm thinking some of the lads 
were across the street at the pub when they should have been wrenching.
Dan

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Aug 12 18:08:53 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 00:08:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
In-Reply-To: <BLU133-DS14AA10C9B618E4FBD8373E9700@phx.gbl>
References: <d08.3f7ddc93.35d2fe24@aol.com>
	<BLU133-DS14AA10C9B618E4FBD8373E9700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W5420AFAD05B4F06EC8E0D9A5730@phx.gbl>

Free play can be caused by wear in the sector (the worm or the pin or both) or
by wear in the bearings. If the shaft has any end play there will be free play
at the wheel. Before you tear down the box try re-shimming the bearings.

Bill Lawrence
----------------------------------------
> From: bj8Healey at msn.com
> To: Warthodson at aol.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:19:59 -0600
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> Thanks.  I have about 1.5 inches of free play in my wheel .. and a bit of
> wander depending upon surface (and tire pressure) .... I feel I am
correcting
> quite a bit through the looseness of the box .. not sure if this will help
or
> not .. My bushings are all good, as well as the rod ends .. it is a box
thing
> in my case.
> I hate to throw good money away if this is not the ticket ...
>
> Jim Sailer

From design at soltec.net  Tue Aug 12 20:30:46 2008
From: design at soltec.net (Andrew Fell Architecture Design)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 04:30:46 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <1921E744B4FF4F82A43E492CCAE234E5@homeef0oqjjyyd>
Message-ID: <835528591.7931218594646981.JavaMail.root@white.riverwatcher.com>

I have BJ7 #23155, and my original badge has a hyphen.

Andrew Fell
Urbana, Illinois


----- Original Message -----
From: bstarke at telus.net
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 1:28:33 PM (GMT-0600) America/Chicago
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 badge

My BJ7  # 20449 has the original hyphenated badge
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
>
> I've seen too many BJ7's with the hyphen to believe it was anytime before
> late BJ7 production.
>
> Mal
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as design at soltec.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Tue Aug 12 22:24:43 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:24:43 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Steering
In-Reply-To: <BLU133-DS14AA10C9B618E4FBD8373E9700@phx.gbl>
References: <d08.3f7ddc93.35d2fe24@aol.com>
	<BLU133-DS14AA10C9B618E4FBD8373E9700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080813142443.18655s2zf59kqnm3@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

JAMES 

When trying to eliminate excess play in the steering system please check the right hand side steering idler. Check the expected wear on the brass bush diameters (2 bushes) but also the end play shimming or adjustment. Excess vertical movement in the idler will mean the right hand side wheel may not respond directly to your steering inputs. This may appear as steering box problems. The idler shaft bushes are more likely to 'hammer' themselves out of diameter rather than wear from rotation which is limited and low speed.The right hand side sees more bumps and road damage impacts than your left. As Pat Quinn would draw to your notice it is all opposite hand 'down under' 

JOE 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 08:14:18 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 10:14:18 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
Message-ID: <c65.2cc7bbf5.35d4463a@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/13/2008 8:35:19 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Warthodson  
writes:

Why was the hyphen dropped after such as long history of being used? If  it 
was a supplier error, why would they continue it on the MkIII's? If it were  a 
conscious decision, why wait until near the end of the MkII production?  Maybe 
it was a cost cutting decision. Hyphens are quite expensive, you  know. 
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 8/12/2008 10:02:37 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
mbruce6 at cogeco.ca writes:

I've  seen too many BJ7's with the hyphen to believe it was anytime before  
late BJ7  production.








**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Wed Aug 13 08:16:16 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 07:16:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Repeat the leather question
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502183@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Does anyone understand the chemistry involved with the rejuvenator
stuff?

What does oil really do to the cells?

Ken Freese

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 08:19:18 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 10:19:18 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle seal
Message-ID: <c16.45524998.35d44766@aol.com>

Before you remove the hub & bearing to replace the seal, try to verify  if 
that is the source of the leak of is it the gasketed joint between the hub  & 
axle. This a common source of leaks & easier to access than the seal.  Take a 
look at the "rear axle hub assembly" diagram in a shop manual.
Gary Hodson 
 
 
In a message dated 8/12/2008 10:43:25 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
davzu29 at cox.net writes:

I've  just noticed what appears to be a fluid leak coming from the right  rear
shaft on my BJ8. I haven't had to add any brake fluid, so I'm unsure  if it's
brake fluid or oil. If it's brake fluid, I'd expect a wheel  cylinder rebuild
would be in order, which wouldn't be big a deal, but but  what if it's an oil
seal? Is that a big deal to replace? TIA

David  Z.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From al at bighealey.org  Wed Aug 13 15:43:18 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:43:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <183282.35669.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8fd8d$9c9d7500$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Jorge:

I used the vinegar method of cleaning out the cooling system just a couple
of weeks ago on my '62 BT-7, which gets up to about 212 degrees in
stop-and-go traffic with ambient temperatures in the 75-85 degree range...

Since you asked, here is what I did and the results:

After draining the cooling system, I flushed it out with water a couple of
times.  I then added 1.5 gallons of distilled white vinegar and topped it
off with distilled water (from a 5 gallon bottle sourced from Home Depot).

I ran the water vinegar mix in the car at idle for about 90 minutes, then
drained.  Upon draining, I could see some scale was being flushed out - but
not a whole lot (and not as much as I would have expected).  At best, the
water coming out was "cloudy" but not "milky" or "chunky", as others have
reported.  I then flushed the engine with distilled water a couple of times,
and refilled with coolant.

I can't say that the car runs much cooler than before, but then again I
haven't driven it much, either...

I hope hearing about a first-hand experience helps.

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge
Garcia
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 9:56 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system

Has anyone ever used vinegar to clean the engine cooling passages and the
rest of the cooling system of any mineral build up? If you have please let
me know your results.
Thanks
Jorge Garcia
65 BJ8
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as al at bighealey.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 13 15:46:12 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:46:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hanging the Sheetmetal
Message-ID: <002301c8fd8e$01d4b640$dd34e046@markl946cfrd7q>

I hung one of my doors last night and their is a quarter inch gap at the
bottom
that I can actually see the threshold plate through.   This is obviously too
big.

Should the bottom door gap also be  1/8th to 3/16th or shouldn't there be a
gap
down there at all to keep water out?

And I thought I was almost done.  Ha!   Hangin the sheet metal is a
" Real Motha Foya".   I wish I never heard the term " door gaps".

I remember talk about "shaving the doors" a couple of years ago,  is that
done as a last resort or is it standard procedure when a car has had
major panel, frame and shroud repair?

Guess what answer I want to hear?


Thanks in advance,    Mark

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 17:06:03 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:06:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <001701c8fd8d$9c9d7500$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNCEKNCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Any chance you didn't use enough vinegar, Al ??  Sounds like to little of
the stuff to me?!?!?

Ed

From Editorgary at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 16:07:54 2008
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:07:54 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] to hyphenate or not to hyphenate
Message-ID: <bbb.343e0775.35d4b53a@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/13/08 11:13:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> My BJ7  # 20449 has the original hyphenated badge
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
> >
> > I've seen too many BJ7's with the hyphen to believe it was anytime before
> > late BJ7 production.
> >
> > Mal
>
Would anyone with a believed-to-be-original MkII badge where the
Austin-Healey is NOT hyphenated please communicate with me directly, I'd like
to know the
body number and Car No. and, if possible, the assembly date.
Cheers
Gary

Gary Anderson




**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.

(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000500000000
17 )

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 13 16:48:03 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (rwil at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:48:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
Message-ID: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Vinegar works quite slowly. Curt Arndt uses it for removing rust from small Healey bits. It takes Days, not 90 minutes for that purpose. 

-Roland
------Original Message------
From: Ed's Shop
Sender: healeys-bounces+rwil=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
To: 'Austin Healey'
ReplyTo: shop at justbrits.com
Sent: Aug 13, 2008 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system

Any chance you didn't use enough vinegar, Al ??  Sounds like to little of
the stuff to me?!?!?

Ed
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as rwil at sbcglobal.net

http://www.team.net/archive


Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 17:44:32 2008
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:44:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0808131644md0d9024qe9a80d8c3c809dff@mail.gmail.com>

Why not use the commercial stuff?   Prestone and others make radiator flush.

- Tom


On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 6:48 PM, <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Vinegar works quite slowly. Curt Arndt uses it for removing rust from small
> Healey bits. It takes Days, not 90 minutes for that purpose.
>
> -Roland

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 18:56:25 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:56:25 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELACKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Curt Arndt uses it for removing rust from small Healey bits.>> 

AhA!!  Like I said, rattled 'something in this OF memory bank, Roland!!!

<<It takes Days, not 90 minutes for that purpose.>>

And I would wager NOT diluted with water<G>.

Tnx !

Ed

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 13 18:01:38 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:01:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELACKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELACKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <4dt6a4dvtshq7vrel2jl0mtn6f5h6l9h08@4ax.com>

That's right, Ed, full strength right out of the bottle.

-Roland

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:56:25 -0600, you wrote:

::<<It takes Days, not 90 minutes for that purpose.>>
::
::And I would wager NOT diluted with water<G>.
::
::Tnx !
::
::Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 19:13:19 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:13:19 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] to hyphenate or not to hyphenate
In-Reply-To: <bbb.343e0775.35d4b53a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNOELBCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Austin-Healey is NOT hyphenated please communicate with me directly, I'd
like to know the body number and Car No. and, if possible, the assembly
date.>>

How about this, Gary<G>!!

BEING a BJ-7 Owner (and curious), I have put together a "survey" for all !!

Results will come to me and I will do a data base of the results and publish
for all.  I just tested it and it works great and reports as follows:
<quote>
Your BlueMail form has been completed, following are the results:
Field Value
Name Ed Kaler
Model BJ-7
Year 1963
Chassis 22707
State IL
Country USA
mailfrom ed at justbrits.com
subject Hyphen Survey
</quote>

As per Gary's suggestion I will add fields for:
Body Number:
Build Date:

What say you gents??  Gimme an hour or so before going to:

http://www.justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html

If you do NOT see those 2 added fields, please just do not fill out<G>!!
Also, I will add to "Various Articles" on my main page for those folks that
are NOT on this List (you can tell folks) and I will ask the BCF folks about
it.

Before 'publishing' I will sort by Chassis # so we can sort of get an idea
of where/when the hyphen use changed.

Post to the List to let all know, 1] what you think of it and b] of the
idea?!?!

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 19:16:43 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:16:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <4dt6a4dvtshq7vrel2jl0mtn6f5h6l9h08@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEELCCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<That's right, Ed, full strength right out of the bottle.>>

And I would think doing the water passages would take longer than a hour & a
half????  Couple of DAYS?!?!?

From clocks at midcoast.com  Wed Aug 13 18:21:03 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 20:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
Message-ID: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>

In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at fifty MPH 
and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have looked at 
it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front tires were 
out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer and they 
were both right on.

Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the shimmy is 
GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve 
inches in one section near the edge of the tread.

Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would that 
effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to put the 
flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might be out of 
round or not running true. Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Aug 13 18:47:13 2008
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:47:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <9d86a17b7da23344a133e3a.20080813174713.eeratvarre@webmail.dslextreme.com>

Tire was probably separating on the inside.

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


James Lea
> In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at fifty MPH
> and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have looked
> at
> it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front tires were
> out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer and they
> were both right on.
>
> Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the shimmy is
> GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve
> inches in one section near the edge of the tread.
>
> Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would that
> effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to put the
> flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might be out
> of
> round or not running true. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 19:55:20 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:55:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <1921E744B4FF4F82A43E492CCAE234E5@homeef0oqjjyyd>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIELECKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Survey IS up-dated and YES I had already remembered to ADD a field for
Yes/No - hyphen<VBG>!!

So, NEW test results:
**********************************************
The following info was sent to shop at justbrits.com:
Field 	Value
Name: 	Ed Kaler
Model: 	BJ-7
Year: 	1963
Chassis: 	22707
Body #: 	xxxxxxxxx
Build info: 	01/01-01/03/63
Hyphen: 	Yes
State: 	IL
Country: 	USA
mailfrom: 	ed at justbrits.com
Publish 	Yes
subject 	Hyphen Survey

From jsoderling at astound.net  Wed Aug 13 19:13:20 2008
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:13:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<9d86a17b7da23344a133e3a.20080813174713.eeratvarre@webmail.dslextreme.com>
Message-ID: <009e01c8fdaa$f113bf50$6501a8c0@Soderling>

Yes, tread separation.  It is usually no more than 1/4" and hard to detect, 
but really makes the car shake.  I had the problem 14 yrs ago when I bought 
a used Healey and ran it for six months on tires that had 70% tread left but 
turned out to be vs.-a-or-by old.  How old was this left rear tire?  Many 
times you can detect it by jacking up the wheel to just clear the floor and 
then rotate it.  I found the bad tire by having a friend drive along side me 
on the freeway and look at the tires bounce.

Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Cc: "List Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.


> Tire was probably separating on the inside.
>
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>
> James Lea
>> In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at fifty MPH
>> and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have looked
>> at
>> it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front tires were
>> out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer and they
>> were both right on.
>>
>> Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the shimmy is
>> GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve
>> inches in one section near the edge of the tread.
>>
>> Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would that
>> effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to put 
>> the
>> flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might be out
>> of
>> round or not running true. Cheers, JL
>>
>> James Lea
>> PO Box 25
>> Rockport Maine 04856
>> 1-207-236-3632
>>
>> 1951 Triumph Renown
>> 1952 MG TD
>> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
>> 1958 Rover P4
>> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
>> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jsoderling at astound.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 19:42:18 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:42:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808131842u3f52c129qdb55504451b2cd03@mail.gmail.com>

James -

Same thing happened to me six months ago - the steel belts had
seperated inside.  I only figured it out because I looked specifically
at the tires and noticed the tire wall on the right rear was slightly
indented.  Replaced all four tires with new vredesteins.

Alan



On 8/14/08, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:
> In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at fifty MPH
> and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have looked at
> it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front tires were
> out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer and they
> were both right on.
>
> Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the shimmy is
> GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve
> inches in one section near the edge of the tread.
>
> Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would that
> effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to put the
> flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might be out of
> round or not running true. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From clocks at midcoast.com  Wed Aug 13 19:55:14 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 21:55:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<ff59076c0808131842u3f52c129qdb55504451b2cd03@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>

Alan. Could you be more specific as to size and model of tire?  I Googled 
Vredestein and there are many to choose from. Thanks, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Aug 13 21:21:17 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 21:21:17 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 badge (serial number)
In-Reply-To: <48A21FE7.50006@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNKELICKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<I have BN7...>>

Forgot, you gents and Phase I BJ-8s are also welcome to take part in the
survey<G>!!

Ed

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Aug 13 21:07:21 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 23:07:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
References: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<d9b7a14d0808131644md0d9024qe9a80d8c3c809dff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002e01c8fdba$de6f7550$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

The truck garage at Dofasco, (the large steel producer I used to work at for 
33 years) always cleaned their heavy equipment cooling systems using Mr. 
Clean liquid. The system was drained, about 2/3 of the system was filled 
with the stuff and the rest topped up with water. The cooling system was run 
for about 20 minutes then drained and throughly flushed. It worked very 
well.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "T W" <ah3000me at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system


> Why not use the commercial stuff?   Prestone and others make radiator 
> flush.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 6:48 PM, <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> Vinegar works quite slowly. Curt Arndt uses it for removing rust from 
>> small
>> Healey bits. It takes Days, not 90 minutes for that purpose.
>>
>> -Roland

From al at bighealey.org  Wed Aug 13 21:33:11 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 23:33:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNCEKNCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <001101c8fdbe$7b41e9f0$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Ed:

Maybe you are right in thinking I didn't use enough vinegar.  My guidance
was a write-up or two found on the Healey list...

On the other hand, I might just take Norman Nock's advice and send the
radiator out for work...

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's
Shop
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:06 PM
To: 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system

Any chance you didn't use enough vinegar, Al ??  Sounds like to little of
the stuff to me?!?!?

Ed
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as al at bighealey.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From al at bighealey.org  Wed Aug 13 21:33:43 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 23:33:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNCEKNCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <001201c8fdbe$8db28680$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Ed:

Maybe you are right in thinking I didn't use enough vinegar.  My guidance
was a write-up or two found on the Healey list...

On the other hand, I might just take Norman Nock's advice and send the
radiator out for work...

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's
Shop
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:06 PM
To: 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system

Any chance you didn't use enough vinegar, Al ??  Sounds like to little of
the stuff to me?!?!?

Ed
_______________________________________________

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Aug 13 21:44:32 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 20:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <004001c8fdc0$100c2a40$30247ec0$@rr.com>

James, I have experienced a shimmy a couple of times that turned out to be a
delaminating tire on the rear.  It was a shimmy at slow speeds but turned
into vibration at higher ones.  In the first case, the tire failed at about
60 mph and beat hell out of my lower rear fender before I could get the car
stopped.  I learned my lesson from that and didn't let the second one go
long enough to cause a blow-out.
BTW, the blowout  and short time of running on the blown tire damaged the
wheel enough that it can't be perfectly trued anymore (per Allen Hendrix),
although I'm still using it.  It doesn't cause any noticeable vibration,
though.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James
Lea
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 5:21 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.

In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at fifty MPH 
and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have looked at

it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front tires were 
out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer and they 
were both right on.

Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the shimmy is 
GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve 
inches in one section near the edge of the tread.

Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would that 
effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to put the 
flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might be out of

round or not running true. Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 22:54:28 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:54:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<ff59076c0808131842u3f52c129qdb55504451b2cd03@mail.gmail.com>
	<00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808132154t649738e2xe92a17e07c66f704@mail.gmail.com>

James -

For the Vredestiens, the sizes are 165x15 if you have stock rims, 185/70R15
if you have 5" or 5.5" rims.  If you have stock rims, you can also go with
Kumho that makes a cheap but decent quality 165x15.

Best Regards,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 9:55 AM, James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote:

> Alan. Could you be more specific as to size and model of tire?  I Googled
> Vredestein and there are many to choose from. Thanks, JL
>
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Wed Aug 13 23:14:42 2008
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 01:14:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR
Message-ID: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>

Is this for real or a reconstruction?
 
 
_http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469_ 
(http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469)  
 
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Aug 13 23:45:56 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:45:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR
In-Reply-To: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
References: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808132245x7cf3e5dcra51aa81362af7b04@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

If I'm not mistaken, this is the SR which was a spare chassis for the team
that was built but never put on wheels and sat around Warwick, and the
chassis and a pile of parts were sold to someone in Australia who put it all
together.

This is an authentic SR, although never raced.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:14 PM, <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:

> Is this for real or a reconstruction?
>
>
> _http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469_
> (http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469)
>
> Jim  Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (
> http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Aug 14 03:01:57 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:01:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

James,

in case you tinker with the idea of buying Vredesteins, don't buy the
Vredestein Classic Sprint (don't know whether you get this one in the US).
IMHO they look really good on AHs. I had them on my BT7. I have always been
warned by a friend of mine (who races sometimes). He said they loose grip
very fast when it starts raining.

I always thought that I don't race my car and that I'm on the safe side for
this reason. Now I know better! Don't ask!

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of James Lea
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:55 AM
To: Alan Seigrist; List Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.

Alan. Could you be more specific as to size and model of tire?  I Googled
Vredestein and there are many to choose from. Thanks, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 03:13:38 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:13:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>

Eric / James -

I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot of
rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of course I'm
not racing in the rain....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:01 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) <
lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

> James,
>
> in case you tinker with the idea of buying Vredesteins, don't buy the
> Vredestein Classic Sprint (don't know whether you get this one in the US).
> IMHO they look really good on AHs. I had them on my BT7. I have always been
> warned by a friend of mine (who races sometimes). He said they loose grip
> very fast when it starts raining.
>
> I always thought that I don't race my car and that I'm on the safe side for
> this reason. Now I know better! Don't ask!
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 03:23:02 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:23:02 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808140223j22fd71f2h7c102c80a92f8136@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Exciting news....

I was doing a little bit of checking and I noticed that Longstone Tyres in
the UK has been working with Pirelli and has reintroduced the classic
Pirelli Cinturato CN36 in 185/70VR15, for a pretty good price:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?PHPSESSID=82dd512ec16fada49914f82228e56b66&searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185%2F70+X+15

These are great tires, they have the correct diameter and the fattest tread
width in the tire size.  I know these wear fairly fast, but since we all
replace our tires every 5 to 10 years it shouldn't be a big deal.  I have
new Vredesteins on my car but if I was buying tires today I would get the
Pirellis for sure.

http://www.zagato-cars.com/images/alfa+romeo+junior+zagato+advertisement+05.jpg

By the way, Longstone Tyres has some sort of special arrangement with UK
Post, so their shipping charges are pretty reasonable and very very fast.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:13 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Eric / James -
>
> I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot
> of rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of course
> I'm not racing in the rain....
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Aug 14 03:56:37 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:56:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAB3fHuc3f9NDhNFG/wStNWQBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Alan,

I was not racing in the rain (I did about 25-30 mph) when in a slight curve
the car's rear end broke away while I was accelerating really slightly. No
signs of oil or other debris on the street. At this time it was raining, not
heavily, but the street was completely wet.

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

________________________________

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:14 AM
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Cc: James Lea; List Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.


Eric / James -

I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot of
rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of course I'm
not racing in the rain....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Aug 14 06:06:35 2008
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek and Gwen Sharp)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:06:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
References: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0808140223j22fd71f2h7c102c80a92f8136@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP2932B9BA819A088D4ABF9FC3720@phx.gbl>

That is good news (I think).  After being totally negligent regarding tyres 
fore many years, I finally replaced the 185 SR 15 Pirelli Cinturatos  that I 
had installed in 1980.  They were just getting too risky to use anymore. 
They were a bit tight on clearance and would rub the inner wheel well on 
full right lock, but not full left lock.  They filled the wheel well 
beautifully and looked great.  These re-introductions  from Longstone are a 
185/70 size and I doubt they are the same profile as the originals, I expect 
them to be a little fatter with less sidewall.  I hope they do fit as they 
may well be my next tire.  If anyone gets them, please post the results!

Mirek
60 BT7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com>
Cc: "List Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.


> All -
>
> Exciting news....
>
> I was doing a little bit of checking and I noticed that Longstone Tyres in
> the UK has been working with Pirelli and has reintroduced the classic
> Pirelli Cinturato CN36 in 185/70VR15, for a pretty good price:
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?PHPSESSID=82dd512ec16fada49914f82228e56b66&searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185%2F70+X+15
>
> These are great tires, they have the correct diameter and the fattest 
> tread
> width in the tire size.  I know these wear fairly fast, but since we all
> replace our tires every 5 to 10 years it shouldn't be a big deal.  I have
> new Vredesteins on my car but if I was buying tires today I would get the
> Pirellis for sure.
>
> http://www.zagato-cars.com/images/alfa+romeo+junior+zagato+advertisement+05.jpg
>
> By the way, Longstone Tyres has some sort of special arrangement with UK
> Post, so their shipping charges are pretty reasonable and very very fast.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:13 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> Eric / James -
>>
>> I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot
>> of rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of 
>> course
>> I'm not racing in the rain....
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From heard at datatrontech.net  Thu Aug 14 06:36:44 2008
From: heard at datatrontech.net (Heard)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:36:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808140223j22fd71f2h7c102c80a92f8136@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0808140223j22fd71f2h7c102c80a92f8136@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <036e01c8fe0a$696e6630$1801010a@xp>

 That is interesting.  I have a set of real Cinturatos that are 'like new'
although they are probably 30 years old if anyone needs a set for a trailer
queen.  I sure wouldn't drive on them.

Heard

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:23 AM
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Cc: List Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.

All -

Exciting news....

I was doing a little bit of checking and I noticed that Longstone Tyres in
the UK has been working with Pirelli and has reintroduced the classic
Pirelli Cinturato CN36 in 185/70VR15, for a pretty good price:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/search.php?PHPSESSID=82dd512ec16fada49914f82
228e56b66&searchMethod=term&searchTerm=185%2F70+X+15

These are great tires, they have the correct diameter and the fattest tread
width in the tire size.  I know these wear fairly fast, but since we all
replace our tires every 5 to 10 years it shouldn't be a big deal.  I have
new Vredesteins on my car but if I was buying tires today I would get the
Pirellis for sure.

http://www.zagato-cars.com/images/alfa+romeo+junior+zagato+advertisement+05.
jpg

By the way, Longstone Tyres has some sort of special arrangement with UK
Post, so their shipping charges are pretty reasonable and very very fast.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:13 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Eric / James -
>
> I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is 
> alot of rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  
> Of course I'm not racing in the rain....
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug 14 06:42:22 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 8:42:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
Message-ID: <20080814124222.TQUZ13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Hi Eric.  I have Vre Classic Sprint's on my BJ8 and my E-Type.  Have driven in the rain -- although not at high speed, and have seen no difference between their holding ability from the Mich tires that preceeded them.  I have found them to be excellent riding, handling and driving tires--the Vre Classic Sprint.

tom 
> 
> From: "Brits'n'Pieces \(Eric Frenken\)" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
> Date: 2008/08/14 Thu AM 05:01:57 EDT
> To: "'James Lea'" <clocks at midcoast.com>,  "'Alan Seigrist'"
> 	<healey.nut at gmail.com>,  "'List Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.
> 
> James,
> 
> in case you tinker with the idea of buying Vredesteins, don't buy the
> Vredestein Classic Sprint (don't know whether you get this one in the US).
> IMHO they look really good on AHs. I had them on my BT7. I have always been
> warned by a friend of mine (who races sometimes). He said they loose grip
> very fast when it starts raining.
> 
> I always thought that I don't race my car and that I'm on the safe side for
> this reason. Now I know better! Don't ask!
> 
> Best regards
> 
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of James Lea
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:55 AM
> To: Alan Seigrist; List Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.
> 
> Alan. Could you be more specific as to size and model of tire?  I Googled
> Vredestein and there are many to choose from. Thanks, JL
> 
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> 
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug 14 06:50:11 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 8:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
Message-ID: <20080814125011.DCCY29060.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

I came across the Pa TWP late at night a few months ago in absolute POURING rain driving 60 - 70 MPH (had to to keep from getting run over).  There are some pretty good long turns there.  I had ZERO problems with slipping or rear breaking away.  And this was driving pretty soon after it started to rain so if there were any oil slicks they would also have had an impact.

I am also prone to drive in the mountains of western Pa in the rain and don't mind doing it.  Never a problem.

Woon't argue with your experience, just wanted to state my experience. 


Cheers
tom 
> 
> From: "Brits'n'Pieces \(Eric Frenken\)" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
> Date: 2008/08/14 Thu AM 05:56:37 EDT
> To: "'Alan Seigrist'" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> CC: 'List Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.
> 
> Alan,
> 
> I was not racing in the rain (I did about 25-30 mph) when in a slight curve
> the car's rear end broke away while I was accelerating really slightly. No
> signs of oil or other debris on the street. At this time it was raining, not
> heavily, but the street was completely wet.
> 
> Best regards
> 
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:14 AM
> To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
> Cc: James Lea; List Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.
> 
> 
> Eric / James -
> 
> I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot of
> rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of course I'm
> not racing in the rain....
> 
> Alan
> 
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From stella67 at aol.com  Thu Aug 14 07:16:00 2008
From: stella67 at aol.com (stella67 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:16:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] horn button spring
Message-ID: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>

I am putting my BN7 Mk II back together after 7 years of restoration.? I had my trafficator rebuilt about 6 years ago and put it away.? I recently unpacked it I discovered that I am missing the spring that sits behind the horn button (adjustable steering).? Does anyone have a spare spring they would be willing to sell and/or does anyone know of an acceptable replacement part I can purchase.? I tried a couple of the parts vendors without any luck.

Thanks,
John

From clocks at midcoast.com  Thu Aug 14 07:30:09 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:30:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAB3fHuc3f9NDhNFG/wStNWQBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c8fe11$dfd7f370$0201a8c0@JIM>

Since our Healey gets driven maybe two thousand mile a year and not raced or 
rallied I opted for Kuhmo Power Star 165-80-15's. The on-line reviews were 
good for ride comfort and handling and they will probably rot out before 
they wear out. Tire rack has 680 backordered but I found them at Dayton Tire 
for $45.00 each plus $32.00 shipping for four. I took the flat off the rim 
this morning and sure enough it had delaminated inside. Thanks for all the 
advice. Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From clocks at midcoast.com  Thu Aug 14 07:34:09 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:34:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy II.
Message-ID: <002101c8fe12$6e7c3780$0201a8c0@JIM>

I forgot to add this interesting tire comparison page to my last note. I 
found this while searching on-line for tire info and saved it for future 
reference. Cheers, JL

http://www.turbinecar.com/tires.htm 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 08:09:35 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 07:09:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy II.
In-Reply-To: <002101c8fe12$6e7c3780$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002101c8fe12$6e7c3780$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <48A43C9F.7010104@comcast.net>

Hmmmm ... anybody know the "inch size" of original A-H tyres 
(Roadspeeds?) offhand?


bs


James Lea wrote:
> I forgot to add this interesting tire comparison page to my last note. I 
> found this while searching on-line for tire info and saved it for future 
> reference. Cheers, JL
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Thu Aug 14 08:37:02 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:37:02 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy II.
Message-ID: <d1b.2a1a9913.35d59d0e@aol.com>

On my '58 I have brand new "Euro metric radials 165 R15 86T M&S"  purchased 
by the previous owner which look really good and I can't imagine cost  much. 
Don't know where they came from, but I get a lot of positive comments on  them.
 
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Aug 14 08:46:44 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 07:46:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Leather questions answered
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502195@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Thanks to the scientists out there, I got some good responses and leads.
The British seem to be in the lead on the topic through restoration of
archival leather bound books. I learned that relative humidity is very
important, not just sunlight exposure. I learned that rejuvenator oils
probably won't help shrunken leather, just stiff leather.
Ken

Personal response:

"" but I'm pretty sure there are NO cells left after tanning.  I expect
that leather is mostly fibrils of extracellular proteins, like collagen
& keratin.  NO cells. I expect that oil makes the fibrils less brittle.
I think the following is a reasonable *guess*  -  that on a molecular
scale (this is relevant since basically, each fibril is just a few long
molecules), when they dry out they get more crystalline, & when wet they
are more disordered so they can tolerate flexion.  This is just my
mental image: it may be that when they're dried out they are more like
rubber bands in liquid nitrogen, that tend to break instead of flex.  Or
rather like crystallized metal after bending several times.""


Web references:
http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Chemistry-of-Leather-Care&id=605554

Wikipedia look up for neatsfoot oil was good

"google fat-liquoring of leather"


 Progress in Leather Conservation (Conference Review)
  University of Texas, Austin, March 1997.
  http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/waac/wn/wn19/wn19-2/wn19-209.html

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Thu Aug 14 08:54:32 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 15:54:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00dc01c8fdb0$cc30a2b0$0201a8c0@JIM><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIB//XgLGF1OmM7vIJX5E2UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<ff59076c0808140213h1c1e9ac6l4320966985a0a8c4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BEF4F4F81A5A4F71A8913B47714FEE57@company92305fb>

Are tyres made of precisely the same ingredients wherever they are
manufactured? Could HK tyres be made and formulated from different
ingredients than European ones? Hence the different perceived behavioural
characteristics....Just curious.
Alan,
I used to go to HK from time to time on business. Friends in the company who
lived there said that the weather/damp/Rainy Season was tough on classics.
Was just in Thailand and thought what fun it would be to drive my Healey
over there, but not in the cities and never, ever, in Bangkok.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: 14 August 2008 10:14
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Cc: List Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.

Eric / James -

I have to disagree, these tires work VERY well in the rain (there is alot of
rain here in Hong Kong), much better than my old Riken tires.  Of course I'm
not racing in the rain....

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 14 09:34:16 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 08:34:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <D8BBCF81-66F3-44D9-AEC0-DEDCA236C63D@sbcglobal.net>

A lot of times this caused by tire separation. They separate  
internally and can be hard to detect. The easiest way is to run your  
hand around the tire and you will feel flat spots. Also you must pay  
close attention to age of your tires. We have an article coming out  
soon in Healey Marque that covers tires and tire dating.  Tires  
should be replaced about  every 8 years no matter what the wear due  
to the tires getting hard and starting separate internally.

Its not worth having a tire come apart while driving just to try and  
get a few more years out of a set.  There was a club member killed  
several years ago due to tire separation and causing a fatal accident  
so lets all be safe out there and pay attention to the age of the tires.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 13, 2008, at 5:21 PM, James Lea wrote:

> In the last few months I have developed a shimmy that starts at  
> fifty MPH
> and gets worse as the speed increases. Several good mechanics have  
> looked at
> it. One said the front end was out of line. One said the front  
> tires were
> out of balance. I checked both front tires on my bubble balancer  
> and they
> were both right on.
>
> Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the  
> shimmy is
> GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve
> inches in one section near the edge of the tread.
>
> Weird! What would cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would  
> that
> effect the entire car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to  
> put the
> flat rim on the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might  
> be out of
> round or not running true. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> 1980 Commuta-car Electric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Aug 14 09:39:48 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:39:48 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
Message-ID: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>

Jamie, 
consider it done. 
There are at least three questions:
It that a verifiably original badge?
Did the concours judges notice the missing Hyphen?
How are they treating this issue? 
>From the recent discussion, it appears to be an unclear area..
Gary Hodson
 
 
Gary, 
Would you post the following for me: 
A friend is restoring a 1963 BJ7 and states his MKII badge is hyphenated  but 
the following GOLD LEVEL CONCOURS WINNER HBJ7/24937 built 14AUG1963  appears 
to have a non-hyphenated badge.  
_http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193_ 
(http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193) 





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 10:59:31 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:59:31 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
In-Reply-To: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIENCCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Jamie, 
consider it done. >>

Jamie, can you get he info and add to our survey at:

http://www.justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html

TIA !!

Ed

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Aug 14 10:15:49 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:15:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
References: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00fe01c8fe29$040af3c0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Don't let the fact that a Gold level Concours car that had a non-hyphenated 
badge mean that it's gospel and correct for that car. You dont know:
1. if there was a deduction for that detail during the judging, or
2. if it was known to the judges whether the hyphen detail was absolutely 
known at that point in time. The accuracy of known details is continually 
evolving and being more sharply defined each year.

Further, there has been no such thing as a perfect 1000 point Gold level 
car. Also keep in mind that a car can lose 49 points out of 1000 and still 
be within Gold.

Rich Chrysler
A National Concours Registry judge

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
To: <jdaggett at dagmarent.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:39 AM
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge


> Jamie,
> consider it done.
> There are at least three questions:
> It that a verifiably original badge?
> Did the concours judges notice the missing Hyphen?
> How are they treating this issue?
>>From the recent discussion, it appears to be an unclear area..
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> Gary,
> Would you post the following for me:
> A friend is restoring a 1963 BJ7 and states his MKII badge is hyphenated 
> but
> the following GOLD LEVEL CONCOURS WINNER HBJ7/24937 built 14AUG1963 
> appears
> to have a non-hyphenated badge.
> _http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193_
> (http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193)
>
>
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 11:33:34 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:33:34 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <BEF4F4F81A5A4F71A8913B47714FEE57@company92305fb>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNKENDCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Are tyres made of precisely the same ingredients wherever they are
manufactured?>>

There is one 'bingo', Simon !!!  Even tyres coming off the production line
one right after another would not be the same (not MUCH difference, BUT
still 'different'.

2nd would be the 'roadway' composition !!

3rd would be inflation pressure, tyre total age and mileage(s).

4th, I would surmise that rain here in Chicago is not going to be the same
as 'on the range' in say, Wyoming<G>!!

What 'drifts' on your side of The Pond may very well NOT 'drift' on this
side !!  er, OR vise versa<G>.

Ed

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Aug 14 10:34:08 2008
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:34:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
References: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
	<00fe01c8fe29$040af3c0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <0FD7D76E62B3425C95DADB50E20BD8F7@your4dacd0ea75>

Having read this thread for a couple of days, I got out my new Judging 
Standards and as I read it "the hyphen"  isn't mentioned- this would 
indicate that A National Concours Registry Judge  could not deduct for the 
lack of or addition of a hyphen anyway due to lack of documentation?






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <Warthodson at aol.com>; <jdaggett at dagmarent.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] MkII Badge


> Don't let the fact that a Gold level Concours car that had a 
> non-hyphenated
> badge mean that it's gospel and correct for that car. You dont know:
> 1. if there was a deduction for that detail during the judging, or
> 2. if it was known to the judges whether the hyphen detail was absolutely
> known at that point in time. The accuracy of known details is continually
> evolving and being more sharply defined each year.
>
> Further, there has been no such thing as a perfect 1000 point Gold level
> car. Also keep in mind that a car can lose 49 points out of 1000 and still
> be within Gold.
>
> Rich Chrysler
> A National Concours Registry judge
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
> To: <jdaggett at dagmarent.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:39 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 11:37:33 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:37:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <001101c8fdbe$7b41e9f0$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNCENFCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<My guidance was a write-up or two found on the Healey list...>>

GREAT, Al !!  See gents, the Archives DO work<VBG>

I would still think that a couple of full strength vinegar for an extended
run each could not hurt tho?!?!?

On the other hand, I might just take Norman Nock's advice and send the
radiator out for work...>>

And after the above, but SURE to heed Norman's advice.

From 62bt7 at prodigy.net  Thu Aug 14 11:09:40 2008
From: 62bt7 at prodigy.net (62bt7)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:09:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hyphen or no hyphen / 100-6 vs 3000 badging
References: <bbb.343e0775.35d4b53a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001801c8fe30$8d1c0c10$d434480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>

Since there is so much ink and interest in "hyphen or no hyphen",
change point and car number, I have a similar question which I
asked several years ago with no defining answer.

I own 1959/60, 3000, car# H-BN7-L/405, body# 3013BN7/803,
built 26-31 March 1959, (first month of production).

When the 3000 started production, the cars were still being badged
"100-6". ("100-6" grille badge, "100-6" horn button, no "3000" flash
on boot lid)

The question: What is the change point (car #) from 100-6 to 3000 badging 
???.

I have three original 3000 Mk.ll badges, all have hyphen.

Kirk Kvam


> Would anyone with a believed-to-be-original MkII badge where the
> Austin-Healey is NOT hyphenated please communicate with me directly, I'd 
> like
> to know the
> body number and Car No. and, if possible, the assembly date.
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> Gary Anderson

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Thu Aug 14 11:23:19 2008
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 10:23:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hyphen or no hyphen / 100-6 vs 3000 badging
References: <bbb.343e0775.35d4b53a@aol.com>
	<001801c8fe30$8d1c0c10$d434480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>
Message-ID: <EB14CADDFD2042BA905E33FFADA39FE1@FRED>

I am doing a ground up restoration on H-BN7-L/605.  It was badged as a 
100-6, and had the "cones" on the rear reflectors.  Re the horn button, my 
1962 BT7  has the 100-6 horn button, which I am fairly certain is original 
to the car.  I think that horn button was carried on for a long time.

John Snyder


>
> I own 1959/60, 3000, car# H-BN7-L/405, body# 3013BN7/803,
> built 26-31 March 1959, (first month of production).
>
> When the 3000 started production, the cars were still being badged
> "100-6". ("100-6" grille badge, "100-6" horn button, no "3000" flash
> on boot lid)
> The question: What is the change point (car #) from 100-6 to 3000 badging
> ???.
> I have three original 3000 Mk.ll badges, all have hyphen.
>
> Kirk Kvam

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 11:57:25 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:57:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
Message-ID: <081420081757.2635.48A47205000C54B900000A4B220702163304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

I wouldn't run without a lubricant in the coolant (e.g. soluble oil, water wetter, a/f, etc.).   Commercial products should have some type of lubrication if they're meant to be kept in for awhile.  


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Ed's Shop" <shop at justbrits.com>
> <<My guidance was a write-up or two found on the Healey list...>>
> 
> GREAT, Al !!  See gents, the Archives DO work<VBG>
> 
> I would still think that a couple of full strength vinegar for an extended
> run each could not hurt tho?!?!?
> 
> On the other hand, I might just take Norman Nock's advice and send the
> radiator out for work...>>
> 
> And after the above, but SURE to heed Norman's advice.

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 12:09:18 2008
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:09:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] horn button spring
In-Reply-To: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>

John,

I am currently rebuilding trafficators for the Healey Community since the
former provider of this service, Vic Wright is no longer accepting any new
business.  As such I have just had these springs made up by my spring maker
and I should have them soon and will be able to sell you an as new and
original reproduction very soon.

BTW I have the 6 cylinder adjustable horn buttons, new for sale for those
who need them.

Drop me a line in  a week or so to get price and shipping information.

If anyone else on the list needs their Trafficator/Control head rebuilt,
drop me a line to discuss the details.

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget

On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 6:16 AM, <stella67 at aol.com> wrote:

> I am putting my BN7 Mk II back together after 7 years of restoration.? I
> had my trafficator rebuilt about 6 years ago and put it away.? I recently
> unpacked it I discovered that I am missing the spring that sits behind the
> horn button (adjustable steering).? Does anyone have a spare spring they
> would be willing to sell and/or does anyone know of an acceptable
> replacement part I can purchase.? I tried a couple of the parts vendors
> without any luck.
>
> Thanks,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Aug 14 12:22:45 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:22:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number
In-Reply-To: <751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
	<751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>

Can you help, please?

When is BJ8 chassis 26704?  AKA early vs. late BJ8

Thanks   Peter C.

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 12:31:52 2008
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:31:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
In-Reply-To: <0FD7D76E62B3425C95DADB50E20BD8F7@your4dacd0ea75>
References: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
	<00fe01c8fe29$040af3c0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
	<0FD7D76E62B3425C95DADB50E20BD8F7@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <751d05480808141131q14ae22efw9e17ac2482553094@mail.gmail.com>

Dallas

No, not necessarily. Just because the Concours guidelines doesn't mention an
item, if a knowledgeable judge or team of judges decides to deduct for
something they know is incorrect, then so be it.  The guidelines are just
that, a tool to supplement all of the other documentation and resources that
one needs to use when restoring a car.  This issue comes up on a regular
basis when judging entrants cars.  Comments like I gave my my restorer the
guidelines so therefore if he just follows them I'll win a Gold award. Not
necessarily!

There is a reason that all of our telephone and contact information is
listed in the guidelines, but I almost never get a call from anyone
restoring a car to ask a question.  Yet, I talk to fellow members of the
Concours Committee on a regular basis to discuss what is right or wrong for
a car or component that I'm working on or restoring.  Bottom line is it
takes a bit more effort than just getting the guidelines to properly restore
a Concours car.

However now that this issue has been brought up, the Concours committee will
most likely add this to our list of items that will be updated in next years
revision.

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Chairman, AH Concours Committee

On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com
> wrote:

> Having read this thread for a couple of days, I got out my new Judging
> Standards and as I read it "the hyphen"  isn't mentioned- this would
> indicate that A National Concours Registry Judge  could not deduct for the
> lack of or addition of a hyphen anyway due to lack of documentation?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: <Warthodson at aol.com>; <jdaggett at dagmarent.com>; <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 12:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] MkII Badge
>
>
> > Don't let the fact that a Gold level Concours car that had a
> > non-hyphenated
> > badge mean that it's gospel and correct for that car. You dont know:
> > 1. if there was a deduction for that detail during the judging, or
> > 2. if it was known to the judges whether the hyphen detail was absolutely
> > known at that point in time. The accuracy of known details is continually
> > evolving and being more sharply defined each year.
> >
> > Further, there has been no such thing as a perfect 1000 point Gold level
> > car. Also keep in mind that a car can lose 49 points out of 1000 and
> still
> > be within Gold.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> > A National Concours Registry judge
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
> > To: <jdaggett at dagmarent.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:39 AM
> > Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 13:33:38 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:33:38 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Jensen 440 and parts
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIENPCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Any  "Nasty Boy" wanna bees interested???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler-440-Short-Engine-Heads-Trans-M-Parts
-NOS_W0QQitemZ200245043948QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200245043948&_trkparms=39%
3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&timeout=1218694837875





or        http://tinyurl.com/5msh77

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 13:34:49 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:34:49 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ7 badge
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMENPCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Charlie wrote:  <<My BT7 is earlier at 16323.>>
And  David Schweninger wrote:
<< I have BN7 II 18440.>>

So how come you guys haven't filled out the survey FOR:
"AH Mk. II Hyphen Survey" which may be found at:

http://www.justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html

Only EIGHT folks have, including myself !?!?!?!?!?

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Aug 14 12:59:29 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 13:59:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number. NEVER MIND
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
	<751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080814135848.03ffbe98@nosimport.com>

At 01:22 PM 8/14/2008, Peter C wrote:
>Can you help, please?
>
>When is BJ8 chassis 26704?  AKA early vs. late BJ8
>
>Thanks   Peter C.
============
Never mind.

Peter 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 13:03:48 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:03:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number
In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
References: <8CACC2707C82534-A34-887@mblk-d42.sysops.aol.com>
	<751d05480808141109w60416396g341764b5b6f0124a@mail.gmail.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20080814132049.0416f548@nosimport.com>
Message-ID: <008801c8fe40$7be22780$73a67680$@rr.com>

Hi, Peter -
26704 was built 31 March - 20 April 1964.  It was the last Phase 1 car;
26705 (built 12 - 20 May 1964) was the first Phase 2.
Why do you ask?

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
C
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:23 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Chassis number

Can you help, please?

When is BJ8 chassis 26704?  AKA early vs. late BJ8

Thanks   Peter C.

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 13:38:48 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 14:38:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Body Shop Soap Opera Part II
Message-ID: <48720d20808141238mdd73e3eq7837f3e536d661c7@mail.gmail.com>

Well, once they got the electrical problem sorted out on my BT7 and could
start they car they discovered that they couldn't stop it. I was at the shop
toady and while I didn't try the brake pedal, I did verify that the brake
(and clutch) reservoir was full.  There is no apparent leak reported at the
brake cylinders or front pistons. No reported leak anywhere.

It was suggested that the seals on the master cylinder went bad, and the
piston will no longer move.

1. Does that sound like a possible cause? The car sat for nearly 10 months
without being started or driven.

2. If I do need a master cylinder is it better to buy a new one or have this
one resleeved?

3 If it does turn out to be the master cylinder does anyone have a 100-6
master cylinder core they would sell me?

The shop, while they aren't Healey experts seems to have done a good job of
putting it back together. The only thing I noticed is that forgot to cut a
hole in the new tunnel carpet for the ask tray. I was going to let it go
since I don't smoke, but thought it would seem to be missing something if it
wasn't there.

Thanks for all the help.

Jack

From ampole at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 14 13:58:36 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 19:58:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Engine fastener list
Message-ID: <BLU105-W124DBE971066C0029E41D3D5720@phx.gbl>

Hi Guys
I have searched the archive and this has been mentioned but has anyone ever
done a list of the Bsf fasteners used on these engines or can decipher the
parts codes?
Ever hopefull, cheers Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Aug 14 14:38:28 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:38:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge
In-Reply-To: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
References: <c9e.3613df40.35d5abc4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W30C78EBEB11AEBCF7E5014AD720@phx.gbl>

There is so much reflection in the photo, is that a cloisonne badge or
enamel?
Bill
BJ7



> From: Warthodson at aol.com> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:39:48 -0400> To:
jdaggett at dagmarent.com; healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] MkII Badge>
> Jamie, > consider it done. > There are at least three questions:> It that a
verifiably original badge?> Did the concours judges notice the missing
Hyphen?> How are they treating this issue? > >From the recent discussion, it
appears to be an unclear area..> Gary Hodson> > > Gary, > Would you post the
following for me: > A friend is restoring a 1963 BJ7 and states his MKII badge
is hyphenated but > the following GOLD LEVEL CONCOURS WINNER HBJ7/24937 built
14AUG1963 appears > to have a non-hyphenated badge. >
_http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193_ >
(http://www.calabashcattery.com/4images/details.php?image_id=193) > > > > >

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Thu Aug 14 14:50:19 2008
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:50:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question
References: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A35EB186BFA4414BBB76FF8534424CF@atc0f226cd3237>

The subject of auxiliary fuel pumps has been covered a great deal, I know, 
but I have a question.

Can a pump such as the NAPA or Facet be installed in-line with the existing 
SU pump on my BT7, but not be powered until needed. That is, will it operate 
similarly to the SU pump, in a pump-through or pull-through mode---without 
power?

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1612 - Release Date: 8/14/2008 6:03 PM

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Aug 14 15:06:39 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:06:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question
Message-ID: <d1e.2f07a30d.35d5f85f@aol.com>

Yes--that is how my 100 is set up:   Tank->Filter->Facet->SU->Engine.  The 
Facet can pump  through the SU and the SU can pull through the Facet.  Only one 
pump is  powered at a time.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------------------------------------------  
 
In a message dated 8/14/2008 4:50:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
alexmm at roadrunner.com writes:

Can a  pump such as the NAPA or Facet be installed in-line with the existing 
SU  pump on my BT7, but not be powered until needed. That is, will it operate 
 
similarly to the SU pump, in a pump-through or pull-through mode---without  
power?





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Aug 14 15:18:15 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 14:18:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <4A35EB186BFA4414BBB76FF8534424CF@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
	<4A35EB186BFA4414BBB76FF8534424CF@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <009a01c8fe53$443a20e0$ccae62a0$@rr.com>

Yes, it can, Alex.  I have such an arrangement on my BJ8:  a negative ground
SU in series with an Autozone electric pump and a Single-Pole Double-Throw
switch under the driver's side of the dash.  I can select either pump, or
neither. I drove out to San Diego on one pump, and back on the other. It
also works great as an anti-theft system. I have run out of gas several
times in hotel parking lots because I forgot I turned off the pumps for the
night.  With both pumps off, the engine will start but only run for about a
minute or so.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question

The subject of auxiliary fuel pumps has been covered a great deal, I know, 
but I have a question.

Can a pump such as the NAPA or Facet be installed in-line with the existing 
SU pump on my BT7, but not be powered until needed. That is, will it operate

similarly to the SU pump, in a pump-through or pull-through mode---without 
power?

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm 

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Thu Aug 14 16:05:10 2008
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 18:05:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question
References: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com><4A35EB186BFA4414BBB76FF8534424CF@atc0f226cd3237>
	<009a01c8fe53$443a20e0$ccae62a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4EFEC6DA800F4636BEBB061B8F87E7B3@atc0f226cd3237>

Thank you Steve and Michael. Appreciate the fast response.

== Alex


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump question


> Yes, it can, Alex.  I have such an arrangement on my BJ8:  a negative 
> ground
> SU in series with an Autozone electric pump and a Single-Pole Double-Throw
> switch under the driver's side of the dash.  I can select either pump, or
> neither. I drove out to San Diego on one pump, and back on the other. It
> also works great as an anti-theft system. I have run out of gas several
> times in hotel parking lots because I forgot I turned off the pumps for 
> the
> night.  With both pumps off, the engine will start but only run for about 
> a
> minute or so.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:50 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump question
>
> The subject of auxiliary fuel pumps has been covered a great deal, I know,
> but I have a question.
>
> Can a pump such as the NAPA or Facet be installed in-line with the 
> existing
> SU pump on my BT7, but not be powered until needed. That is, will it 
> operate
>
> similarly to the SU pump, in a pump-through or pull-through mode---without
> power?
>
> == Alex in Maine
>     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
>     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
>     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
>     1965 MG Midget
>     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as alexmm at roadrunner.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1612 - Release Date: 8/14/2008 
> 6:03 PM
>
>
> 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1612 - Release Date: 8/14/2008 6:03 PM

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 16:12:56 2008
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 18:12:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hyphen or no hyphen / 100-6 vs 3000 badging
In-Reply-To: <001801c8fe30$8d1c0c10$d434480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>
References: <bbb.343e0775.35d4b53a@aol.com>
	<001801c8fe30$8d1c0c10$d434480c@kirkgrbymz8g9u>
Message-ID: <48A4ADE8.9090504@comcast.net>

My car is a 1959 BT7: HBT7-L/2638; it has a 100-6 horn button.

62bt7 wrote:
> Since there is so much ink and interest in "hyphen or no hyphen",
> change point and car number, I have a similar question which I
> asked several years ago with no defining answer.
>
> I own 1959/60, 3000, car# H-BN7-L/405, body# 3013BN7/803,
> built 26-31 March 1959, (first month of production).
>
> When the 3000 started production, the cars were still being badged
> "100-6". ("100-6" grille badge, "100-6" horn button, no "3000" flash
> on boot lid)
>
> The question: What is the change point (car #) from 100-6 to 3000 badging 
> ???.
>
> I have three original 3000 Mk.ll badges, all have hyphen.
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
>
>   
>> Would anyone with a believed-to-be-original MkII badge where the
>> Austin-Healey is NOT hyphenated please communicate with me directly, I'd 
>> like
>> to know the
>> body number and Car No. and, if possible, the assembly date.
>> Cheers
>> Gary
>>
>> Gary Anderson
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
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From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 14 17:59:02 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:59:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hyphen or no hyphen / 100-6 vs 3000 badging
In-Reply-To: <48A4ADE8.9090504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIEPBCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<My car is a 1959 BT7: HBT7-L/2638; it has a 100-6 horn button.>>

Is this a sign that you gents would ALSO like a 'survey'??

Ed
Home of the AH Mk.II Hyphen Survey
<G>

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 17:45:52 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 23:45:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft Pulley Needed
Message-ID: <081420082345.24299.48A4C3B0000D6A2100005EEB220074567297900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Greetings-

I am in need of a crank pulley (it didn't survive removal after 45 years). I really just need the pulley, but will consider taking the pulley if you have a rebuilt damper to go with.  I'm sure that someone has a spare one kicking around. BTW, how much do these things go for?

Thanks for your time,

Tom 
63 BJ7

From rpmengr at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 14 18:46:42 2008
From: rpmengr at bellsouth.net (Bob Memler)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 20:46:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box
Message-ID: <48A4D1F2.2090103@bellsouth.net>

Is a late BN-4 to BJ8 steering box interchangeable with a BN-1?
TIA
Bob Memler
'54 BN-1

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Aug 14 19:07:57 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:07:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Engine fastener list
References: <BLU105-W124DBE971066C0029E41D3D5720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005501c8fe73$5ad65830$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Andy,

The standard BMC fastener codes do not seem to be used in this situation. 
They are virtually all Austin part numbers except for the odd split pin, 
roll pin and the like. Therefore the codes cannot be used here.

Does this mean you now have a Hundred?

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Engine fastener list


> Hi Guys
> I have searched the archive and this has been mentioned but has anyone 
> ever
> done a list of the Bsf fasteners used on these engines or can decipher the
> parts codes?
> Ever hopefull, cheers Andy
> _________________________________________________________________
> Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pennell at cox.net  Thu Aug 14 19:27:49 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:27:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday funny
Message-ID: <20080814212749.XSLY4.225228.imail@eastrmwml37>

Given the ages on this list this was too good not to pass on.


>  Looking Old
> 
> HAVE YOU EVER BEEN GUILTY OF LOOKING AT OTHERS YOUR OWN AGE AND THINKING, 
> SURELY I CAN'T LOOK THAT OLD?"  WELL... YOU'LL LOVE THIS ONE.
> 
> I WAS SITTING IN THE WAITING ROOM FOR MY FIRST APPOINTMENT WITH A NEW 
> DENTIST. I NOTICED HIS DDS DIPLOMA, WHICH BORE HIS FULL NAME.
> 
> SUDDENLY, I REMEMBERED A TALL, HANDSOME, DARK-HAIRED BOY WITH THE SAME NAME 
> HAD BEEN IN MY HIGH SCHOOL CLASS SOME 30-ODD YEARS AGO. COULD HE BE THE SAME 
> GUY I HAD A SECRET CRUSH ON, WAY BACK THEN?
> 
>  UPON SEEING HIM, HOWEVER, I QUICKLY DISCARDED ANY SUCH THOUGHT. THIS 
> BALDING, GRAY-HAIRED MAN WITH THE DEEPLY LINED FACE WAS WAY TOO OLD TO HAVE 
> BEEN MY CLASSMATE.
> 
> AFTER HE EXAMINED MY TEETH, I ASKED HIM IF HE HAD ATTENDED PARK CENTER HIGH 
> SCHOOL. "YES. YES, I DID. I'M A PIRATE, " HE GLEAMED WITH PRIDE.
> 
> "WHEN DID YOU GRADUATE?" I ASKED.
> 
> HE ANSWERED, "IN 1978. WHY DO YOU ASK ?"
> 
> "YOU WERE IN MY CLASS!" I EXCLAIMED.
> 
> HE LOOKED AT ME CLOSELY. THEN, THAT UGLY, OLD, BALD, WRINKLED, FAT ASS, 
> GRAY-HAIRED, DECREPIT SON-OF-A-BITCH ASKED, "WHAT DID YOU TEACH?"

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 14 19:29:00 2008
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:29:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hyphen or no hyphen / 100-6 vs 3000 badging
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIEPBCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIEPBCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <48A4DBDC.7020708@comcast.net>

Why not?

Ed's Shop wrote:
> <<My car is a 1959 BT7: HBT7-L/2638; it has a 100-6 horn button.>>
>
> Is this a sign that you gents would ALSO like a 'survey'??
>
> Ed
> Home of the AH Mk.II Hyphen Survey
> <G>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fandy at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 14 21:25:50 2008
From: fandy at sbcglobal.net (Fred Anderson)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 22:25:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <000b01c8fe86$9e710960$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>

Can somone give me the part number of the NAPA or Facet fuel pump that will
fit the Healeys  Fred

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Thu Aug 14 21:39:59 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 23:39:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8fe86$9e710960$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>
References: <000b01c8fe86$9e710960$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>
Message-ID: <004c01c8fe88$97c90480$c75b0d80$@net>

Facet 610-1051

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Fred Anderson
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:26 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump

Can somone give me the part number of the NAPA or Facet fuel pump that will
fit the Healeys  Fred

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 14 22:02:07 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:02:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8fe86$9e710960$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>
References: <000b01c8fe86$9e710960$4001a8c0@owner03cb45297>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808142102l46489d4cq2213686e6d9a5a95@mail.gmail.com>

Fred -

NAPA also sells this bendix style pump but I don't have the Napa part number
handy (the Facet number is 477060E):

http://www.yachtsupplydepot.com/mechanical-supplies/fuel-pumps/facet-cylindrical-solid-state-electric-fuel-pump-477060e/prod_23438.html

This pump in my opinion is the very best pump to use, it's quiet, and the
psi rating is the same as the original pumps (2.75 to 4 psi).  Moves lots of
fuel, and has a filter in the body of the pump that is easy to pull out and
clean.  This is the pump I use on all my cars.

http://facet-purolator.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=7&id=14&Itemid=36

Best Regards,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 11:25 AM, Fred Anderson <fandy at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Can somone give me the part number of the NAPA or Facet fuel pump that will
> fit the Healeys  Fred
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 05:10:21 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 19:10:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Car wire sets - BJ8
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808150410q77a987b4r233079903893f534@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -

Any recommendations on who the highest quality supplier of original style
braided wire sets for my BJ8?  The set I currently have on my BJ8 was from
AH spares a while back and it's a PVC wrapped, aluminum wired P.O.S.  Since
I'm stripping my car and rebuilding from the ground up, I want to get the
best available.

Autosparks?  British Wiring?

Ideas?

THANKS!!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Fri Aug 15 07:07:02 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (Price)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:07:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Rebuild
Message-ID: <1704235595-1218805591-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-427073963-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I am putting new brushes and a new bronze bushing in the generator from my BJ8. There is a considerable amount of carbon dust on the inside, i.e. covering the field coils and armature. Should this be cleaned and if so, what solution should be used if any?

Thanks for the help. 

Price Lindsay
BJ 8
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug 15 07:42:45 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 06:42:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1704235595-1218805591-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-427073963-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1704235595-1218805591-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-427073963-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <48A587D5.7060606@comcast.net>

Hi Price,

In general, you do not want a conductive material (carbon) any place it 
shouldn't be.  Probably not a huge issue in a generator, but I would at 
least clean the dust off with dry compressed air.  A can of the stuff 
used to clean computer keyboards should work pretty good.  Also, I've 
used two aerosol products from CRC: Electrical Parts Cleaner and 
Electrical Contacts Cleaner.  Parts Cleaner is the more aggressive of 
the two, and can remove paint, but it should be OK for a generator 
(except for the painted outside).  Contacts Cleaner doesn't seem to 
remove paint, and works well on more sensitive electronic stuff.  Both 
should be available at about any local parts store.


bs


Price wrote:
> I am putting new brushes and a new bronze bushing in the generator from my BJ8. There is a considerable amount of carbon dust on the inside, i.e. covering the field coils and armature. Should this be cleaned and if so, what solution should be used if any?
>
> Thanks for the help. 
>
> Price Lindsay
> BJ 8
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From Warthodson at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 08:08:13 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 10:08:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <c94.3855a534.35d6e7cd@aol.com>

By fit Healeys, I hope you don't think this is a simple bolt in  
installation. You will have to cut both of the banjo fittings off &  adapt the fuel lines 
to the pump some how & make/modify the mounting  bracket. I  have nothing 
against this pump, but I have never understood why  someone would want to do this 
when it would be simpler, more original & just  as reliable to install an 
electronic SU pump. 
Gary Hodson 
 
 
In a message dated 8/14/2008 10:40:18 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
ahbn6 at optonline.net writes:

Can  somone give me the part number of the NAPA or Facet fuel pump that will
fit  the Healeys  Fred





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 08:23:07 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 22:23:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <c94.3855a534.35d6e7cd@aol.com>
References: <c94.3855a534.35d6e7cd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808150723k6ee701fdve5a35001d9ba65f2@mail.gmail.com>

Gary -

On the BJ8, you don't have to cut banjo fittings off, it fits right up.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 10:08 PM, <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> By fit Healeys, I hope you don't think this is a simple bolt in
> installation. You will have to cut both of the banjo fittings off &  adapt
> the fuel lines
> to the pump some how & make/modify the mounting  bracket. I  have nothing
> against this pump, but I have never understood why  someone would want to
> do this
> when it would be simpler, more original & just  as reliable to install an
> electronic SU pump.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2008 10:40:18 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> ahbn6 at optonline.net writes:
>
> Can  somone give me the part number of the NAPA or Facet fuel pump that
> will
> fit  the Healeys  Fred

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug 15 08:46:36 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 07:46:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808150723k6ee701fdve5a35001d9ba65f2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c94.3855a534.35d6e7cd@aol.com>
	<ff59076c0808150723k6ee701fdve5a35001d9ba65f2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48A596CC.8070709@comcast.net>

   Hi Alan,
   re:
   "On  the  BJ8, you don't have to cut banjo fittings off, it fits right
   up. "
   Huh?     A  modern,  aftermarket  pump  has  Whitworth-threaded  banjo
   fittings?
   BTW,  I  second  Gary's opinion; I've had an electronic SU for several
   years  and finally quit agonizing over fuel pump problems (still carry
   a spare, though).
   bs
   Alan Seigrist wrote:

Gary -

On the BJ8, you don't have to cut banjo fittings off, it fits right up.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 15 09:22:27 2008
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 08:22:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR
In-Reply-To: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
Message-ID: <866901.77128.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Jim,

>From this article in Octane magazine http://tinyurl.com/6avngw it sounds like
it's the original.  However, it may be as "original" as George Washington's
hatchet that's had several new heads and handles over the years.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

--- On Thu, 8/14/08, Jwhlyadv at aol.com <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com <Jwhlyadv at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, August 14, 2008, 1:14 AM

Is this for real or a reconstruction?


_http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469_
(http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469)

Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?

Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000500000000
17
)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Fri Aug 15 09:44:27 2008
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 09:44:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR
In-Reply-To: <866901.77128.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <bce.32c4cc4d.35d51942@aol.com>
	<866901.77128.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU127-W361D4E86BEDB3F54844154906D0@phx.gbl>

Real or "not real"  That car is real cool!.............................Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque> Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 08:22:27 -0700> From:
healeyrick at yahoo.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net; Jwhlyadv at aol.com> Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Healey SR> > Jim,> > >From this article in Octane magazine
http://tinyurl.com/6avngw it sounds like> it's the original. However, it may
be as "original" as George Washington's> hatchet that's had several new heads
and handles over the years.> > Happy Healeying,> Rick> > --- On Thu, 8/14/08,
Jwhlyadv at aol.com <Jwhlyadv at aol.com> wrote:> From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com
<Jwhlyadv at aol.com>> Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR> To: healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, August 14, 2008, 1:14 AM> > Is this for real or a
reconstruction?> > >
_http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469_>
(http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/37469)> > Jim
Werner> Louisville, KY> > > > **************Looking for a car that's sporty,
fun and fits in your budget?> > Read reviews on AOL Autos.>
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000500000000>
17> )> Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com> > http://www.team.net/archive>
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
dos_gusanos at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Fri Aug 15 10:21:47 2008
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:21:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] STEERING IDLER
Message-ID: <001501c8fef3$04210500$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

My mechanic has found some play in the steering idler on my 1966 BJ8.

I am wondering what the list would recommend ?  Rebuild with new bearings or
replace with a new assembly. Also, who might be the the best source for this 
part ?

Thanks,

Jim

From coll44 at msn.com  Fri Aug 15 10:33:32 2008
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:33:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
In-Reply-To: <D8BBCF81-66F3-44D9-AEC0-DEDCA236C63D@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002d01c8fda3$a30e5060$0201a8c0@JIM>
	<D8BBCF81-66F3-44D9-AEC0-DEDCA236C63D@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W5C7AB13FFD896D3CD1612C96D0@phx.gbl>

Would you say the eight year rule applies to tires which have been stored
indoors?

Thanks,

Terry Coll '64 BJ8> From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008
08:34:16 -0700> To: clocks at midcoast.com> CC: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Shimmy.> > A lot of times this caused by tire separation. They
separate > internally and can be hard to detect. The easiest way is to run
your > hand around the tire and you will feel flat spots. Also you must pay >
close attention to age of your tires. We have an article coming out > soon in
Healey Marque that covers tires and tire dating. Tires > should be replaced
about every 8 years no matter what the wear due > to the tires getting hard
and starting separate internally.> > Its not worth having a tire come apart
while driving just to try and > get a few more years out of a set. There was a
club member killed > several years ago due to tire separation and causing a
fatal accident > so lets all be safe out there and pay attention to the age of
the tires.> > > > > > David Nock> British Car Specialists> Stockton Ca 95205>
209-948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com> .> .> > On Aug 13, 2008, at
5:21 PM, James Lea wrote:> > > In the last few months I have developed a
shimmy that starts at > > fifty MPH> > and gets worse as the speed increases.
Several good mechanics have > > looked at> > it. One said the front end was
out of line. One said the front > > tires were> > out of balance. I checked
both front tires on my bubble balancer > > and they> > were both right on.> >>
> Today I had a flat on the left rear. I put on the spare and the > > shimmy
is> > GONE!! I inspected the tire and found it scalloped but only for twelve>
> inches in one section near the edge of the tread.> >> > Weird! What would
cause a rear tire to scallop like that and would > > that> > effect the entire
car and cause the shimmy? Tomorrow I am going to > > put the> > flat rim on
the car, jack up the rear end and see if the rim might > > be out of> > round
or not running true. Cheers, JL> >> > James Lea> > PO Box 25> > Rockport Maine
04856> > 1-207-236-3632> >> > 1951 Triumph Renown> > 1952 MG TD> > 1952
Triumph Mayflower> > 1958 Rover P4> > 1962 Austin Healey BT7> > 1980
Commuta-car Electric> > _______________________________________________> >
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> >> > You are subscribed as
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> >> > http://www.team.net/archive>
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
coll44 at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive
_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 11:07:15 2008
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:07:15 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <cb3.3bc4d258.35d711c3@aol.com>

Hi Gary-
 
Since you carry a spare SU pump why not go a step further and install it in  
a parrallel fashion with an individual switch for each pump. 
In our BJ8 use 2 Neg ground SUs mounted side by side with double  fitting 
banjos on the original pump and fuel lines to the single banjo fittings  on the 
additional pump. 
A little anti theft secret is is to put a on/off toggle switch to each  
pump.In that fashion you have the option of which one you wish to use or both if  
the case should arrise where you experience a vaccum block and need the  
additional pressure to pump the fuel to the carbs. 
 
Contact me off list if you are interested I do have a listing of all the  
parts necessary to make this conversion and apicture of the installation. I will  
send the picture and list to those that are interested. .  
 



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 15 12:02:46 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 11:02:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <cb3.3bc4d258.35d711c3@aol.com>
References: <cb3.3bc4d258.35d711c3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3FAA22EC-7AEC-4B7C-92B8-166F1E473073@sbcglobal.net>

We have install a back up pump this way several times and we use a  
turn signal switch for a Bugeye Sprite. It has a left and right  
position with the center position turned off. Then you can stash the  
switch up under the dash or install it in place of the dash light  
switch and just a flick of the switch  and the car will not run.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 15, 2008, at 10:07 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:

> Hi Gary-
>
> Since you carry a spare SU pump why not go a step further and  
> install it in
> a parrallel fashion with an individual switch for each pump.
> In our BJ8 use 2 Neg ground SUs mounted side by side with double   
> fitting
> banjos on the original pump and fuel lines to the single banjo  
> fittings  on the
> additional pump.
> A little anti theft secret is is to put a on/off toggle switch to each
> pump.In that fashion you have the option of which one you wish to  
> use or both if
> the case should arrise where you experience a vaccum block and need  
> the
> additional pressure to pump the fuel to the carbs.
>
> Contact me off list if you are interested I do have a listing of  
> all the
> parts necessary to make this conversion and apicture of the  
> installation. I will
> send the picture and list to those that are interested. .

From dan at warner-associates.com  Fri Aug 15 12:25:24 2008
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 13:25:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] STEERING IDLER
In-Reply-To: <001501c8fef3$04210500$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <000501c8ff04$4a6bccf0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>

Jim:
You can buy the bushings and have that rebushed by a local shop.  Follow the
instructions to complete the job in an AH 3000 repair manual.
Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Jim Lyons
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] STEERING IDLER

My mechanic has found some play in the steering idler on my 1966 BJ8.

I am wondering what the list would recommend ?  Rebuild with new bearings or
replace with a new assembly. Also, who might be the the best source for this

part ?

Thanks,

Jim
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 13:42:33 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 15:42:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Shimmy.
Message-ID: <bc6.2de45d7f.35d73629@aol.com>

Terry--
 
In my opinion they would be safe to use--indoors.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 8/15/2008 12:35:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
coll44 at msn.com writes:

Would  you say the eight year rule applies to tires which have been stored  
indoors?






**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From Warthodson at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 14:09:30 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 16:09:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <d0b.2f9705e7.35d73c7a@aol.com>

Marion,
That was someone else that carries a spare. I did exactly what you suggest.  
I installed two electronic SU's in parallel. Each controlled by  it's own 
on/off toggle switch. It was a bit of a challenge to figure out  where/how to 
install the two pumps, but in the end it worked out very neatly.  Now all I have 
to decide is whether to run on one & "save" the other as  a spare, or alternate 
between the two so that they both wear out at the same  time!
Gary
   
 
 
In a message dated 8/15/2008 12:07:36 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
MBran89793 at aol.com writes:

Hi  Gary-

Since you carry a spare SU pump why not go a step further and  install it in  
a parrallel fashion with an individual switch for each  pump. 
In our BJ8 use 2 Neg ground SUs mounted side by side with  double  fitting 
banjos on the original pump and fuel lines to the  single banjo fittings  on 
the 
additional pump. 
A little anti  theft secret is is to put a on/off toggle switch to each  
pump.In  that fashion you have the option of which one you wish to use or 
both if   
the case should arrise where you experience a vaccum block and need  the  
additional pressure to pump the fuel to the carbs.  

Contact me off list if you are interested I do have a listing of all  the  
parts necessary to make this conversion and apicture of the  installation. I 
will  
send the picture and list to those that are  interested. .  




**************Looking for a car that's  sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.    
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0003
0000000007  )
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Fri Aug 15 14:19:27 2008
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 16:19:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <d1c.2df492d5.35d73ecf@aol.com>

I'd love that info, thanks in advance.
 
Bill 
64 BJ8
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/15/2008 4:10:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Warthodson at aol.com writes:

Marion,
That was someone else that carries a spare. I did exactly  what you suggest.  
I installed two electronic SU's in parallel. Each  controlled by  it's own 
on/off toggle switch. It was a bit of a  challenge to figure out  where/how 
to 
install the two pumps, but in  the end it worked out very neatly.  Now all I 
have 
to decide is  whether to run on one & "save" the other as  a spare, or 
alternate  
between the two so that they both wear out at the same   time!
Gary



In a message dated 8/15/2008  12:07:36 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
MBran89793 at aol.com  writes:

Hi  Gary-

Since you carry a spare SU pump why not  go a step further and  install it in 
 
a parrallel fashion with  an individual switch for each  pump. 
In our BJ8 use 2 Neg ground SUs  mounted side by side with  double  fitting 
banjos on the  original pump and fuel lines to the  single banjo fittings  on 
 
the 
additional pump. 
A little anti  theft secret is is to put  a on/off toggle switch to each  
pump.In  that fashion you have  the option of which one you wish to use or 
both if   
the  case should arrise where you experience a vaccum block and need   the  
additional pressure to pump the fuel to the carbs.   

Contact me off list if you are interested I do have a listing of  all  the  
parts necessary to make this conversion and apicture  of the  installation. I 
will  
send the picture and list to  those that are  interested. .   




**************Looking for a car that's  sporty, fun  and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.     
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0003
0000000007   )
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You   are subscribed as   warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking  for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL  Autos.       
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0003
0000000007  )
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  insidedim at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From kilo2mit at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 14:29:28 2008
From: kilo2mit at gmail.com (Jeffrey Steinberg)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 16:29:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted: Driver side window regulator (64 BJ8)
Message-ID: <6221e4f80808151329o7358b66fta0f24395e2a7e80d@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know of a source or have a parts car for the driver side
window regulator?  Its for a 1964 BJ8.

if so, please contact me off list:  kilo2mit at gmail.com

Thanks.

--Jeffrey

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 17:50:49 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 18:50:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <48720d20808151650x1887cd19h708abdff88510dc9@mail.gmail.com>

I have dual pumps on all three cars. They are select by a double pole,
center off switch. Radio Shack has a number of double throw, center off
switches. I chose the 275-653 because of it's red handle. I wanted to
differentiate it from other switches. This switch is double pole, so I used
only on side.

My MGBGT got broke down on the way back from MG2008. I simply used the
switch to use the secondary pump. Worth it's weight in gold.


Jack

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 15 17:53:33 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 16:53:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey dinner place mats
Message-ID: <360387.23442.qm@web83311.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

We have received many requests for the place mates , we will go ahead and put them on our website for you to download , should be ready about mid. September 

 Norman Nock .. British Car Specialists 


We supplied the dinner place mats at Bonneville Healey International Meet August 10-15, 1997. The place mat was 11" by 17 " and under each table setting at the awards dinner, it has over 30 drawings of Healey related items

If there is an interest in this, we will put it on our website as a download, you could then have it laminated if you wanted.

Please let me know if you are interested.


Norman Nock

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 18:55:10 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 08:55:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Abbot Drophead for sale
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808151755y64ac7abai8846f55519a8bb28@mail.gmail.com>

All -
Not for the faint-of-heart but nonetheless one of my favorite non-AH Healeys
is for sale:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-EXTREMELY-RARE-1952-Healey-Abbott-Drophead-Coupe-8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6023QQihZ012QQitemZ220267076097QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Sorry no tiny url, I want to irritate the hell out of Mr. Ed.

Definitely only for those with a proper carpentry shop!

Cheers,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Aug 15 20:57:07 2008
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 19:57:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 67 healey for sale
Message-ID: <003d01c8ff4b$c566ae10$5201a8c0@Jim>

a friend of mine on vacation in the seattle area stumbled upon a 67 healey in
an consignment shop of old cars and motorcycles.   guy says it is original,
whatever that means, and wants 24,5K.  if interested i have the address.
healeymanjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Aug 15 21:08:42 2008
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 20:08:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
Message-ID: <004601c8ff4d$63692920$5201a8c0@Jim>

now i am getting ready to panic.  my bn6 has about 600+ miles on it and has a
problem that has me stumped.  the charging light does not come on when the
ignition is turned on, will barely glow when engine is started and idling, but
gets very bright as rpm increases.  this is backward to normal operation.
pulled a cable off battery and engine stopped.  replaced battery with no
effect.  swapped generators with my bj8, no effect, light still on.  replaced
new voltage regulator with another new one.  no effect.  light still works
backward.  checked every wire on wiring diagram, checked all grounds, etc.
battery holds charge and measures 12.66 volts.   what am i missing?
healeymanjim

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Fri Aug 15 21:19:04 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 03:19:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Color Underneath
Message-ID: <081620080319.29510.48A647280005B5D400007346220922462797900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Hi Listers-

The depth and scope of knowledge here never ceases to amaze. Since i started my resto in February, I have spent countless hours reading the archives and learning. At some point, I hope to be able to contribute to the list as well. Thank you all for your generosity.

To get to my question,I thought I read about this here somewhere, but now I can't find it. What is the correct color for the undersides of the shrouds? My memory tells me it's black, but I know someone out t here knows the correct answer.


Tom
63BJ7

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Aug 15 21:31:18 2008
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 20:31:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Color Underneath
In-Reply-To: <081620080319.29510.48A647280005B5D400007346220922462797900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
References: <081620080319.29510.48A647280005B5D400007346220922462797900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <751d05480808152031v2701801dt5535eae284d13504@mail.gmail.com>

Tom

Healeys were primed in a dark brown color, a "chocolate brown" is the best
description.  The original color is still on my BN1 rear shroud, and if
you'd like I'll send a picture, but you won't see much from a photo.

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 8:19 PM, <tomleavy at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi Listers-
>
> The depth and scope of knowledge here never ceases to amaze. Since i
> started my resto in February, I have spent countless hours reading the
> archives and learning. At some point, I hope to be able to contribute to the
> list as well. Thank you all for your generosity.
>
> To get to my question,I thought I read about this here somewhere, but now I
> can't find it. What is the correct color for the undersides of the shrouds?
> My memory tells me it's black, but I know someone out t here knows the
> correct answer.
>
>
> Tom
> 63BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From scotyp at comcast.net  Fri Aug 15 21:52:54 2008
From: scotyp at comcast.net (scotyp at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 03:52:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 67 healey for sale
Message-ID: <081620080352.28600.48A64F160002256E00006FB822092246279F979B010C9C@comcast.net>

Hi James,
I live in the Seattle area and if it's the one I'm thinking of ,it's in the town of Carnation very close to my house. Seen it many times and I think it's way overpriced! I'ts actually more of a hulk. probably worth about 15K in my opinion...

Scot
'66 BJ8 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> 

> a friend of mine on vacation in the seattle area stumbled upon a 67 healey in 
> an consignment shop of old cars and motorcycles. guy says it is original, 
> whatever that means, and wants 24,5K. if interested i have the address. 
> healeymanjim 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> 
> You are subscribed as scotyp at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Sat Aug 16 04:57:19 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 05:57:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <004c01c8ff36$01a9c800$04fd5800$@net>
References: <48720d20808151650x1887cd19h708abdff88510dc9@mail.gmail.com>
	<004c01c8ff36$01a9c800$04fd5800$@net>
Message-ID: <48720d20808160357j4fd0234eyfcd53d2422a8ffb@mail.gmail.com>

John,

No need to alternate pumps, but if one of them is the SU, use that as
primary,

When I had the MGC painted, the body many messed up the wiring and
deactivated the SU.. I didn't do anything bout it until the incident with
the BGT. The shop that worked on it said the SU would no longer work, and
the reason was that it was inactive ffor several years Itt killed the pump.
I had to get a new one. The cost of the pump was minimal, but the cost of
installing it wasn't.


On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 7:21 PM, John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net> wrote:

> I am going to do this asap but I have also heard that it is a good idea to
> alternate the pumps on each drive. That way, they apparently keep primed?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6 <healeys-bounces%2Bahbn6>=optonline.net@
> autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Jack Feldman
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 7:51 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
>
> I have dual pumps on all three cars. They are select by a double pole,
> center off switch. Radio Shack has a number of double throw, center off
> switches. I chose the 275-653 because of it's red handle. I wanted to
> differentiate it from other switches. This switch is double pole, so I used
> only on side.
>
> My MGBGT got broke down on the way back from MG2008. I simply used the
> switch to use the secondary pump. Worth it's weight in gold.
>
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ahbn6 at optonline.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sat Aug 16 07:11:06 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 09:11:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Color Underneath
References: <081620080319.29510.48A647280005B5D400007346220922462797900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <017201c8ffa1$8b6aa9e0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Tom,

Curt is quite correct in his stating that the underside was in black primer. 
However, picture in your mind's eye the fact that the bare but complete body 
shell rotated on a spit sort of arrangement as it proceeded through Jensen's 
paint booths and the paint sprays reached everywhere they could. Therefore 
relatively open and exposed areas of the iner panels did indeed receive 
colour, not thoroughly, but with quite good coverage where possible. The 
results were that anywhere you can see in under these areas had paint colour 
on them, including body fasteners.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tomleavy at comcast.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:19 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Color Underneath


> Hi Listers-
>
> The depth and scope of knowledge here never ceases to amaze. Since i 
> started my resto in February, I have spent countless hours reading the 
> archives and learning. At some point, I hope to be able to contribute to 
> the list as well. Thank you all for your generosity.
>
> To get to my question,I thought I read about this here somewhere, but now 
> I can't find it. What is the correct color for the undersides of the 
> shrouds? My memory tells me it's black, but I know someone out t here 
> knows the correct answer.
>
>
> Tom
> 63BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ekiessling at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 16 08:08:02 2008
From: ekiessling at sbcglobal.net (edward kiessling)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 07:08:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
Message-ID: <950950.99795.qm@web83203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Need help ----Bt7 overdrive refusing to disengage-has been rebuilt.
   
  thanks Ted& Les

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Sat Aug 16 08:18:26 2008
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 07:18:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Differential Noise
Message-ID: <C4CC2FC2.5BAC%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

There is looseness and a clank when the slack is taken up in the drive train
of my 1965 BJ8.  I thought it was in the universal joints,but they appear
tight.  The slack seems to be in the differential.  How much free play is
tolerable as you rotate the drive shaft? And is there danger in too much
slack or is the free play normal and I should get used to it??

Michael
BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Aug 16 08:21:57 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 10:21:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
In-Reply-To: <950950.99795.qm@web83203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <950950.99795.qm@web83203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006901c8ffab$711940b0$534bc210$@com>

Hi Ted & Les,
You need to determine if the failure to disengage is caused by the
overdrive's hydraulic system retaining pressure or if the problem is
mechanical. 
The easiest way is to, remove the gearbox tunnel, get the rear wheels off
the ground, "drive" the car until the "locked in overdrive" condition is
achieved (engine stopped), then remove the operating valve plug to see if
there is residual oil pressure. If, once the pressure is relieved the
overdrive becomes disengaged the most likely problem is the "bleed off" hole
in the side of the operating valve.
Michael Salter

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of edward kiessling
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:08 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive

Need help ----Bt7 overdrive refusing to disengage-has been rebuilt.
   
  thanks Ted& Les
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sat Aug 16 09:27:25 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (Price)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 15:27:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Bush
Message-ID: <1615026520-1218900414-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1922690779-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Can I "press" the bronze bush into place with a large C clamp or is there a better way. I thought about a hammer and flat piece of steel bar as well.  When I removed the old one it seemed a little fragile which gives me pause. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From healeymonster at fastwave.biz  Sat Aug 16 09:56:35 2008
From: healeymonster at fastwave.biz (Ed Townley)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 09:56:35 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] window channel sources?
Message-ID: <00ad01c8ffb8$a91462d0$6401a8c0@Edsoffice>

Gents--need assistance in sourcing a either a front piece (or entire
three piece)window channel for RH door of my BJ8.
This is NA from Moss, but is listed as illustration nr. 110 (P/N
021-948)at 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28957#top 

Either new or used is ok.  Any assistance is appreciated, as always.
Regards, 
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

64 BJ8
59 AN5
60 AN5 RHD
55 Austin FX3 Taxi



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1615 - Release Date:
8/16/2008 7:11 AM

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 09:59:19 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 08:59:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Differential Noise
In-Reply-To: <C4CC2FC2.5BAC%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C4CC2FC2.5BAC%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <48A6F957.708@comcast.net>

Michael,

I went through my BJ8's differential and set it up to spec when I 
installed a Lempert 3.5 gearset a few years ago.  After setting proper 
pinion bearing preload and gear backlash there was still quite a bit of 
slack in the gears, especially if you turn the wheels (a few thousandths 
or so of backlash at the diff equals an inch or so of slack at the 
drum/wheel).  I had the diff out recently to clean it after a wheel 
bearing failed and the gear wear patterns looked perfect so I think we 
got it right and, yes, there will be quite a bit of perceived slack at 
the wheels even if the diff is set up correctly.

If there isn't a "clunk" when you engage or change gears you're probably 
OK but, if your car has over 100K miles--or hasn't been driven regularly 
over its lifespan--it might be a good idea to pull the diff and have a 
look.   It's not necessarily a "fun" job but it's not distasteful (like 
pulling the lower A-arms) and it's a good idea to check the wheel 
bearings while you're at it (any roughness when turning and they need 
replacement before they fail and strand you).   Any pinion bearing 
preload will probably be gone and, of course, you can replace seals and 
gaskets while you're at it.

FWIW, I put Redline 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in the diff  when we put 
the 3.5 gears in, and after probably 20K miles or so the hypoid gear 
surfaces were polished but some of the original machining marks were 
still visible.


bs


Michael Hartfield wrote:
> There is looseness and a clank when the slack is taken up in the drive train
> of my 1965 BJ8.  I thought it was in the universal joints,but they appear
> tight.  The slack seems to be in the differential.  How much free play is
> tolerable as you rotate the drive shaft? And is there danger in too much
> slack or is the free play normal and I should get used to it??
>
> Michael
> BJ8
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 10:33:47 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 09:33:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Bush
In-Reply-To: <1615026520-1218900414-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1922690779-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1615026520-1218900414-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1922690779-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <48A7016B.10906@comcast.net>

Price,


Use a press if at all possible.  A C-clamp might work, but make sure the 
bush goes in straight.  Soak the bush in warm oil for an hour or so 
before installing.

No way I'd pound it in.  You might break something or at least form a 
ridge on the end of the bush you're pounding on.


bs


Price wrote:
> Can I "press" the bronze bush into place with a large C clamp or is there a better way. I thought about a hammer and flat piece of steel bar as well.  When I removed the old one it seemed a little fragile which gives me pause. 
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 11:18:00 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 10:18:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
Message-ID: <410355.54079.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 11:31:25 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 10:31:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
Message-ID: <234468.67995.qm@web50009.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 11:33:22 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 10:33:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
In-Reply-To: <410355.54079.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <410355.54079.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48A70F62.9030302@comcast.net>

PH3600

Carlos Cruz wrote:
> I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos
> _______________________________________________
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 12:12:10 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 11:12:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
Message-ID: <152957.2216.qm@web50005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos

From pennell at cox.net  Sat Aug 16 13:16:48 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 15:16:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Bush
In-Reply-To: <1615026520-1218900414-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1922690779-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <20080816151648.T8NZ7.244926.imail@eastrmwml37>

Price,

I did this many years ago.  Used a combination of C clamp with wood block and tapping on the wood block.  Soaking the bush with oil suggested by someone is probably a good idea.  Worked out fine but I did have to do a good bit of sanding on the inside of the bush once installed to get the shaft in.  Used a large wood dowel covered with 300 and then 600 grit paper as I recall.

Keith Pennell

> Can I "press" the bronze bush into place with a large C clamp or is there a better way. I thought about a hammer and flat piece of steel bar as well.  When I removed the old one it seemed a little fragile which gives me pause. 

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Aug 16 14:53:03 2008
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:53:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
References: <152957.2216.qm@web50005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8A52841ED05A4098BC4C861D389DA6FD@atc0f226cd3237>

Carlos, I'd suggest staying away from Fram filters. When I had them fitted, 
I would suffer a 10 lb oil pressure reduction. Other filters (i.e. NAPA, 
Wix, etc.) resulted in a 10 lb. increase in pressure.  If you want my NOS 
Fram filters, I'll send them to you free.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carlos Cruz" <healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 2:12 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #


> I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. 
> for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1615 - Release Date: 8/16/2008 7:11 AM

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sat Aug 16 14:57:34 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:57:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
In-Reply-To: <8A52841ED05A4098BC4C861D389DA6FD@atc0f226cd3237>
References: <152957.2216.qm@web50005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<8A52841ED05A4098BC4C861D389DA6FD@atc0f226cd3237>
Message-ID: <00b201c8ffe2$b6261520$22723f60$@net>

Carlos, take a look at my web site under the Replacement Parts page and you
will find a list of filters. Stay away from Fram. You can also access a
filter study on the Technical page that explains why.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alex
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 4:53 PM
To: Carlos Cruz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #

Carlos, I'd suggest staying away from Fram filters. When I had them fitted, 
I would suffer a 10 lb oil pressure reduction. Other filters (i.e. NAPA, 
Wix, etc.) resulted in a 10 lb. increase in pressure.  If you want my NOS 
Fram filters, I'll send them to you free.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carlos Cruz" <healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 2:12 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #


> I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. 
> for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos

From quenty at ntelos.net  Sat Aug 16 15:02:21 2008
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:02:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMENPCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
References: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMENPCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <17C1BF58-B329-4071-85C7-2C2D3B31E99F@ntelos.net>

Ed-
  I was just checking to see if you're paying attention .

Dave

On Aug 14, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Ed's Shop wrote:

> Charlie wrote:  <<My BT7 is earlier at 16323.>>
> And  David Schweninger wrote:
> << I have BN7 II 18440.>>
>
> So how come you guys haven't filled out the survey FOR:
> "AH Mk. II Hyphen Survey"

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Sat Aug 16 15:17:20 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:17:20 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
Message-ID: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>

I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me it  
will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any 
recommendations  on another place to get these?
 
TIA,
 
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sat Aug 16 15:44:20 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 16:44:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Bush
References: <20080816151648.T8NZ7.244926.imail@eastrmwml37>
Message-ID: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E0990F9@SERVER.acrea.local>

Thanks to everyone who offered help.  I did get the bushing in with a C clamp
and a home made mandrel -- it worked perfectly.  In the process the bracket
that holds one of the brushes was severely bent (don't ask) and will require
the help of a machine shop.

Before I spend a lot to fix it, I have a question about alternators.  Is it
necessary to convert the car to negative ground?  Are there positive ground
alternators out there that are readily available and inexpensive (a
significant reason to shift to an alternator).  I've seen conversion kits that
cost $500 for the whole deal and those that are $80 for the bracket and $25
for an alternator to attach, but the instructions indicate that the system
needs to be converted to negative ground.  I just put in an electronic
ignition and fuel pump and I really don't want to replace them if its not
required.

Thanks again.

Price Lindsay
'67 BJ 8

________________________________

From: pennell at cox.net [mailto:pennell at cox.net]
Sent: Sat 8/16/2008 2:16 PM
To: R. Price Lindsay; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Bush



Price,

I did this many years ago.  Used a combination of C clamp with wood block and
tapping on the wood block.  Soaking the bush with oil suggested by someone is
probably a good idea.  Worked out fine but I did have to do a good bit of
sanding on the inside of the bush once installed to get the shaft in.  Used a
large wood dowel covered with 300 and then 600 grit paper as I recall.

Keith Pennell

> Can I "press" the bronze bush into place with a large C clamp or is there a
better way. I thought about a hammer and flat piece of steel bar as well.
When I removed the old one it seemed a little fragile which gives me pause.

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Aug 16 15:47:09 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:47:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
Message-ID: <c34.3cff6dae.35d8a4dd@aol.com>

Carlos--
 
Get off your wallet and spring for a K&N 2009--it is a far superior  product.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/16/2008 1:18:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com writes:

out  shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no. for the 
adapter.  Can someone pls respond 




**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From medlabinc at msn.com  Sat Aug 16 16:49:37 2008
From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 15:49:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tow in question
Message-ID: <BAY109-DS2604DD9EBFB7848CB18AAA26C0@phx.gbl>

OK.

While its 105 degrees outside so during the Beijing 2008 Olympics Trampoline
event intermission I have a front end alignment question re a no-hyphen model
Austin Healey.

Tow in is set with the car static on the ground.  What normally happens or is
supposed to happen to tow in setting when car is in motion and front
suspension is un weighted or compressed.  Does tow in increase or decrease
from its 1/8 or 3/16 setting as suspension travels up and down.  If so why ?

DM / Bj8

From healeyrick at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 16 16:58:54 2008
From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (Rick Neville)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 15:58:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ7 badge
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMENPCKAA.shop@justbrits.com>
Message-ID: <725779.55734.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

BJ7L-20969, but it's spelled "Austin-Healy"  I suspect a Chinese repro.  J/K
it's spelled correctly.  Sorry Ed, I don't do surveys unless someone sends me
a gift certificate to complete it.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

--- On Thu, 8/14/08, Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
From: Ed's Shop <shop at justbrits.com>
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  BJ7 badge
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, August 14, 2008, 3:34 PM

Charlie wrote:  <<My BT7 is earlier at 16323.>>
And  David Schweninger wrote:
<< I have BN7 II 18440.>>

So how come you guys haven't filled out the survey FOR:
"AH Mk. II Hyphen Survey" which may be found at:

http://www.justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html

Only EIGHT folks have, including myself !?!?!?!?!?
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as healeyrick at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sat Aug 16 17:07:28 2008
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:07:28 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Phil
I bought 3 from Norman Nock a couple of years ago-
Good product-good service
Give them a try
John Rowe  Qld Aust
BN1. BT7
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <PhilRitten at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:17 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt


>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me it
> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>
> TIA,
>
> Phil

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Aug 16 17:34:17 2008
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 19:34:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Generator Bush
In-Reply-To: <8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E0990F9@SERVER.acrea.local>
References: <20080816151648.T8NZ7.244926.imail@eastrmwml37>
	<8D4333A09700B046A4B0DCDF4A7DE55E0990F9@SERVER.acrea.local>
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0808161634l7d7f8fd3l17d8c868f7a70e3e@mail.gmail.com>

In a earlier post on this topic, someone recommend an ebay seller (sorry -
can't remember who, but it was just within the past week or two).   I poked
around the seller's ebay store, and he had positive ground diodes for sale
for the Chevy alternator.

- Tom

On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 5:44 PM, R. Price Lindsay <
price at advocateadvisors.com> wrote:

> Thanks to everyone who offered help.  I did get the bushing in with a C
> clamp
> and a home made mandrel -- it worked perfectly.  In the process the bracket
> that holds one of the brushes was severely bent (don't ask) and will
> require
> the help of a machine shop.
>
> Before I spend a lot to fix it, I have a question about alternators.  Is it
> necessary to convert the car to negative ground?  Are there positive ground
> alternators out there that are readily available and inexpensive (a
> significant reason to shift to an alternator).  I've seen conversion kits
> that
> cost $500 for the whole deal and those that are $80 for the bracket and $25
> for an alternator to attach, but the instructions indicate that the system
> needs to be converted to negative ground.  I just put in an electronic
> ignition and fuel pump and I really don't want to replace them if its not
> required.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Price Lindsay
> '67 BJ 8
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: pennell at cox.net [mailto:pennell at cox.net]
> Sent: Sat 8/16/2008 2:16 PM
> To: R. Price Lindsay; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator Bush
>
>
>
> Price,
>
> I did this many years ago.  Used a combination of C clamp with wood block
> and
> tapping on the wood block.  Soaking the bush with oil suggested by someone
> is
> probably a good idea.  Worked out fine but I did have to do a good bit of
> sanding on the inside of the bush once installed to get the shaft in.  Used
> a
> large wood dowel covered with 300 and then 600 grit paper as I recall.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Can I "press" the bronze bush into place with a large C clamp or is there
> a
> better way. I thought about a hammer and flat piece of steel bar as well.
> When I removed the old one it seemed a little fragile which gives me pause.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Aug 16 17:34:34 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 23:34:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
	<935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W3807F8663C0549C61FE658A56C0@phx.gbl>

Now that you mention it, it seems odd to me that with the continuous
complaining about the quality of Moss parts and customer service we all still
seem to gravitate to them first when we look for parts. As far as I can tell
the Nocks are as likely to have any given part available as Moss and they have
many hard to find parts that Moss has never heard of.

I too am guilty of overlooking them at times when I need parts unless its
something special. I bought several pieces from them when I was rebuilding my
100 and the quality and originality of those pieces was impeccable.

Maybe I need to reorganize (organize?) my contact list.

Bill Lawrence
----------------------------------------
> From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au
> To: PhilRitten at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:07:28 +1000
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
> Phil
> I bought 3 from Norman Nock a couple of years ago-
> Good product-good service
> Give them a try
> John Rowe  Qld Aust
> BN1. BT7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:17 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
>>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me it
>> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
>> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 16 19:26:18 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 18:26:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] MGB Differential Noise
In-Reply-To: <C4CC2FC2.5BAC%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <466543.15168.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

The thrust washers in the spider gears of the MGB diff. are badly worn 
 they can be replaced by removing the rear cover , it is a VERY tricky
 job to do this way , we have these washers in stock ... Norman Nock

British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton CA 95205
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
209-948-8767




--- On Sat, 8/16/08, Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu> wrote:

> From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
> Subject: [Healeys] Differential Noise
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 7:18 AM
> There is looseness and a clank when the slack is taken up in
> the drive train
> of my 1965 BJ8.  I thought it was in the universal
> joints,but they appear
> tight.  The slack seems to be in the differential.  How
> much free play is
> tolerable as you rotate the drive shaft? And is there
> danger in too much
> slack or is the free play normal and I should get used to
> it??
> 
> Michael
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sat Aug 16 19:54:36 2008
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:54:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
	<935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<BAY101-W3807F8663C0549C61FE658A56C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>

Have you ever tried SCParts in UK-now that is a different story!- so/so 
parts at times-very so/so service most of the time. Will reply to emails 
when you want to order something, but when you question something, never 
answer them
Never tried Moss Motors so cannot comment

John Rowe  Qld Aust
BN1 BT7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
To: "John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>; <philritten at aol.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Thermostadt



Now that you mention it, it seems odd to me that with the continuous 
complaining about the quality of Moss parts and customer service we all 
still seem to gravitate to them first when we look for parts. As far as I 
can tell the Nocks are as likely to have any given part available as Moss 
and they have many hard to find parts that Moss has never heard of.

I too am guilty of overlooking them at times when I need parts unless its 
something special. I bought several pieces from them when I was rebuilding 
my 100 and the quality and originality of those pieces was impeccable.

Maybe I need to reorganize (organize?) my contact list.

Bill Lawrence
----------------------------------------
> From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au
> To: PhilRitten at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:07:28 +1000
> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
> Phil
> I bought 3 from Norman Nock a couple of years ago-
> Good product-good service
> Give them a try
> John Rowe  Qld Aust
> BN1. BT7
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:17 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
>>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me 
>>it
>> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
>> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Phil
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1614 - Release Date: 15/08/2008 
5:29 PM

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 16 20:22:50 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 19:22:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <995800.94405.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Replacing generator C/E bush see page 211 in my Tech Talk book            
   Norman Nock    Also page 205  & A/H Mag Feb 2000 generator routine maintenance

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 20:25:16 2008
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (MGTD51)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 22:25:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
	<935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<BAY101-W3807F8663C0549C61FE658A56C0@phx.gbl>
	<F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <48A78C0C.9080703@comcast.net>

I have nothing but good things to say about the Nock's.

John & Kerry Rowe wrote:
> Have you ever tried SCParts in UK-now that is a different story!- so/so 
> parts at times-very so/so service most of the time. Will reply to emails 
> when you want to order something, but when you question something, never 
> answer them
> Never tried Moss Motors so cannot comment
>
> John Rowe  Qld Aust
> BN1 BT7
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: "John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>; <philritten at aol.com>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 9:34 AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
>
> Now that you mention it, it seems odd to me that with the continuous 
> complaining about the quality of Moss parts and customer service we all 
> still seem to gravitate to them first when we look for parts. As far as I 
> can tell the Nocks are as likely to have any given part available as Moss 
> and they have many hard to find parts that Moss has never heard of.
>
> I too am guilty of overlooking them at times when I need parts unless its 
> something special. I bought several pieces from them when I was rebuilding 
> my 100 and the quality and originality of those pieces was impeccable.
>
> Maybe I need to reorganize (organize?) my contact list.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> ----------------------------------------
>   
>> From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au
>> To: PhilRitten at aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:07:28 +1000
>> CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>>
>> Phil
>> I bought 3 from Norman Nock a couple of years ago-
>> Good product-good service
>> Give them a try
>> John Rowe  Qld Aust
>> BN1. BT7
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From:
>> To:
>> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:17 AM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>>
>>
>>     
>>> I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me 
>>> it
>>> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
>>> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>>>
>>> TIA,
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>     
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1614 - Release Date: 15/08/2008 
> 5:29 PM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Aug 16 21:10:03 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:10:03 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
In-Reply-To: <48A70F62.9030302@comcast.net>
References: <410355.54079.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<48A70F62.9030302@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808162010u40a33d45q76007de429dfe297@mail.gmail.com>

Carlos (and Bob) -

You need a filter with an anti drainback valve - I don't think PH3600 has it.

PH43 has the anti-drainback valve, or preferably the NAPA GOLD  1068
(made by WIX).

Alan



On 8/17/08, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> PH3600
>
> Carlos Cruz wrote:
>> I&#39;m out shopping and forgot to write down the Fram spin on filter no.
>> for the adapter. Can someone pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From justbrits at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 22:11:44 2008
From: justbrits at comcast.net (JB@comcast)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 22:11:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Abbot Drophead for sale
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808151755y64ac7abai8846f55519a8bb28@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNIEEKCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>

<<Sorry no tiny url, I want to irritate the hell out of Mr. Ed.>>

Sorry to totally DISAPPOINT you Alan, but the non-use of tiny does NOT
"irritate" me.	LOL

However, for long URLs that generally show up broken/non-functional, it is
just plain RUDE to send in the first place.  And RUDER yet when the sender
KNOWS of 'tiny' but is just too dam*ed LAZY to avail themselves of the FREE
service then just enjoy being IMPOLITE to Listers.

Have a nice day.

Me

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sat Aug 16 21:08:01 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:08:01 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] SR.37
Message-ID: <48A79611.5070702@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

Part 2 and we have all looked at Bill Emerson's Healey Book. In 1970 
when the SR.37 chassis was converted to an open roadster it was 
re-identified as XR.37.  The now redundant coupe roof,windscreen and 
rear body panels were stored as Geoff Healey had plans to create a road 
based GT.40 type road car. These panels eventually were purchased by an 
Australian party See Bill Emerson's book p.217. I knew the photographer 
who had taken these pictures in UK many years ago and suggesteed them to 
Bill as a means of clarifing the question of how many chassis existed. 
The top of the two smaller photos shows some 'new old spares' that Geoff 
Healey had made and kept. The redundant panels,windscreen and some 
superseded brake components etc were part of the package of ORIGINAL 
HEALEY COMPONENTS that were used to re-construct the 1968/69 BRG Coupe.
The white SR.37 was purchased by Robert Harrison direct from Healeys. I 
sat in the Sydney AH Club meeting back in 1970 when Robert sought ideas 
as to how to raise the finances to have Geoff Healey re-enter the SR.37 
at LeMans in 1971. This did not happen and Robert had the car shipped to 
Sydney to join his black BJ.8 that was the last official Healey imported 
to Australia. I had as a 17 year old tried to finance the purchase the 
BJ.8 before Robert got it. Bank manager was not helpful.
Joe

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sat Aug 16 20:50:22 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 12:50:22 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] HEALEY SR
Message-ID: <48A791EE.60008@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

The car that is in the advert. ,located in Belgium was constructed in 
Australia. The facts are mixed and can be confusing. The answere is not 
original or fake. Alot depends on 'your' viewpoint. One thing is clear 
it WAS NOT built by the Donald Healey Motor Company.LeMans race entry 
and history is the clarifing information. THERE WAS ONLY EVER ONE 
COMPLETE CHASSIS BUILT AND RACED BY HEALEYS. 1968 the car was BRG named 
SR.37 had a formula one type Coventry Climax V.8  quad cam engine and 
looked like the picture in the advert. 1969 the same chassis named SR.37 
with Coventry Climax eng was entered and raced with slightly different 
bodywork involving smaller rear radiator openings.See p.216  Bill 
Emerson The Healey Book. Both these years saw little success and Healeys 
were advised to make the car lighter and more powerful. Consquently the 
roof,full windscreen (Lola T.70 ) and rear bodywork  was removed to 
lighten the car. A formula.1 style Repco Brabham engine was fitted. See 
p.220 Bill Emerson,The Healey Book. I have seen both cars and know both 
of the original owners

Wait for part
Joe

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Sat Aug 16 21:15:13 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:15:13 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] SR.37 & XR.37 part 3
Message-ID: <48A797C1.40405@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>

For those interested there is now a third car/chassis in the picture. A 
pure replica that has been shown at several European AH events and 
featured in several magazines. So now we have the one original chassis, 
white open sports car in Sydney with the first owner from Healeys, the 
second car an extremely accurate re-construction using redundant 
original parts from the 1968 and 1969 BRG version, Note fitted with an 
alloy Rover V.8 and a third last seen in aluminium, unpainted coupe 
style also with an alloy V.8 Rover
Joe

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 16 21:41:55 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 20:41:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808162010u40a33d45q76007de429dfe297@mail.gmail.com>
References: <410355.54079.qm@web50006.mail.re2.yahoo.com>	
	<48A70F62.9030302@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0808162010u40a33d45q76007de429dfe297@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48A79E03.4050503@comcast.net>

Hey--Carlos asked for the Fram# and I provided it (without a lecture ;)  
That's the filter that came with my spin-on adapter.  According to this 
site it has an anti-drainback valve:

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3oilfilter.html


I use Wix filters.


bs


Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Carlos (and Bob) -
>
> You need a filter with an anti drainback valve - I don't think PH3600 has it.
>
> PH43 has the anti-drainback valve, or preferably the NAPA GOLD  1068
> (made by WIX).
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From m.fawcett at verizon.net  Sat Aug 16 22:11:40 2008
From: m.fawcett at verizon.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 21:11:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48A7A4FC.5060901@verizon.net>

PhilRitten at aol.com wrote:
> I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me it  
> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any 
> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>  
> TIA,
>  
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.fawcett at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>   
Why are we afraid to say MOSS MOTORS? If it wasn't for MOSS MOTORS my 
car would still be in pieces.


Mark
59 BT7

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 16 23:59:34 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2008 22:59:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] MIG Welders
In-Reply-To: <898657.60748.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <BAY101-W9A01F2F9F1477503CE93FCC6D0@phx.gbl>
	<898657.60748.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <j7ffa4dm75j775q27eh5mp49i4tek4eo29@4ax.com>

I have had no serious problems MIG welding 1/4" steel plate pieces
with my Hobart Handler 120, -.023" wire and "C25" gas.  It isn't fast
with multiple passes but it has held up and actually looks pretty
good, too.  I wouldn't want to do it every day for 4 hours a day but
for occasional stuff it has not been a problem.

I would only use flux core for welding outdoors in a breeze or if I
were out of gas.  I agree about buying your own cylinder and
exchanging it when empty.  Probably a good idea to buy a bigger
cylinder than you first think :-)

-Roland

On Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:25:06 -0700 (PDT), Doug Braun wrote:

::One point about Flux-core vs Gas:  With the wire sizes
::used by 120 volt welders, you can weld stuff only up
::to about .100" thick.  To do thicker stuff, you will
::have to switch over to flux-core.  So if you plan to
::weld mostly things like angle iron and reasonably
::heavy tubing, and not thinner sheet metal, you may use
::the gas only a small part of the time.
::
::Also, if you want gas, you should just buy a cylinder.
::
::Also also, I have a good 120 volt welder, and for me,
::there has been almost nothing that it was too small
::for.  Make sure you have available a 120 volt outlet
::on a 20-amp circuit, that is close to the main panel.
::If you must run a new 120-volt circuit a long distance
::to the garage, consider upgrading to 10-gauge wire, to
::minimize the voltage drop.
::
::Doug

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 17 05:08:58 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 07:08:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
References: <950950.99795.qm@web83203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<006901c8ffab$711940b0$534bc210$@com>
Message-ID: <001a01c90059$a6b5a020$3930e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Come on,  there has to be a simpler test than this.

This is enough to make someone want to sell there Healey just to by pass the
hassle.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'edward kiessling'" <ekiessling at sbcglobal.net>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive


> Hi Ted & Les,
> You need to determine if the failure to disengage is caused by the
> overdrive's hydraulic system retaining pressure or if the problem is
> mechanical.
> The easiest way is to, remove the gearbox tunnel, get the rear wheels off
> the ground, "drive" the car until the "locked in overdrive" condition is
> achieved (engine stopped), then remove the operating valve plug to see if
> there is residual oil pressure. If, once the pressure is relieved the
> overdrive becomes disengaged the most likely problem is the "bleed off" 
> hole
> in the side of the operating valve.
> Michael Salter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of edward kiessling
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:08 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
>
> Need help ----Bt7 overdrive refusing to disengage-has been rebuilt.
>
>  thanks Ted& Les
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 17 05:26:08 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 07:26:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004701c9005c$0c81bc70$3930e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Phil,   after much "to do" over thermostats and such, reviewing different 
lists and listening to
different tech lectures,   I found that the over the counter Stant or 
similar technology works just fine for our cars.  Personally I wouldn't hold 
myself up for a part that really isn't necessary in the long run, that is if 
the rest of your cooling system is in order.

The newer technology is just as good as the older ideas in this case.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <PhilRitten at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt


>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me it
> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>
> TIA,
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug 17 05:52:48 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 07:52:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20080817.075333.5624.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

Phil,

I still have a few of the Smiths original "sleeved" thermostats left.
What temp did you need? Thanks.

Doug


---- Original Message ----- 
From: <PhilRitten at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
 
 
>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me
it
> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>
> TIA,
>
> Phil
____________________________________________________________
Click here to lower your monthly payments.  Act now and save!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oMFMNHgMZyRbEx5W00TxCrpFfbPap6p8Hfh7mSPoUuENPk4/

From djg at gavinassociates.com  Sun Aug 17 06:56:48 2008
From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 08:56:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
Message-ID: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>

I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge bar on my 63 BJ7.
I have run the wires back to switches for each under the dash. Where is the
preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems so crowded that
it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once again thanks
for your efforts.

 

Dennis Gavin

Sudbury, MA.

63 BJ7

63 E-Type Jag

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 08:04:16 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 22:04:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
References: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808170704n4c99b97dp77093e567a894479@mail.gmail.com>

Dennis -

You should run a line from the solenoid, through a fuse, to a relay which
runs power to the fog lights.  One fuse and one relay for each light, as you
want each light switched seperately.  This is how it is set up on my BJ8.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 8:56 PM, Dennis Gavin <djg at gavinassociates.com>wrote:

> I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge bar on my 63
> BJ7.
> I have run the wires back to switches for each under the dash. Where is the
> preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems so crowded that
> it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once again
> thanks
> for your efforts.
>
>
>
> Dennis Gavin
>
> Sudbury, MA.
>
> 63 BJ7
>
> 63 E-Type Jag

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Aug 17 08:20:13 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 10:20:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
References: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
Message-ID: <009e01c90074$5da26560$18e73020$@com>

I would recommend using the High Beam wiring for the driving light. The
cable from the dimmer switch joins to the main harness above the foot well
where the wire for the high beam light is joined in with a double bullet
connector. Just add the driving light supply in the spare hole in that
connector. The advantage of this is that when you crest a hill with high
beams and your driving light to be confronted by surprise by an oncoming car
punching the dimmer switch will extinguish the driving light and put the
headlights in low beam. If you really want to do the best job a relay can be
installed in the circuit to minimize the possibility of overloading the
original lighting circuit...
Michael Salter

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dennis Gavin
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights

I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge bar on my 63 BJ7.
I have run the wires back to switches for each under the dash. Where is the
preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems so crowded that
it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once again thanks
for your efforts.

 

Dennis Gavin

Sudbury, MA.

63 BJ7

63 E-Type Jag
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 17 09:20:31 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 08:20:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fram oil filter #
In-Reply-To: <48A70F62.9030302@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <980426.44753.qm@web50008.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks Bob, you were the first across the finish line
and win the Gold medal. You saved me a second trip.

Thank you to all that responded so quickly.

Cheers,
Carlos



--- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> PH3600
> 
> Carlos Cruz wrote:
> > I'm out shopping and forgot to write down the
> Fram spin on filter no. for the adapter. Can someone
> pls respond wit it?  TIA Carlos
> > _______________________________________________

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 10:36:24 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 09:36:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tow in question
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-DS2604DD9EBFB7848CB18AAA26C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY109-DS2604DD9EBFB7848CB18AAA26C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808170936j52b46530r2ba2c8d705e237d4@mail.gmail.com>

Dick,
I have never run an AH through it's suspension travel to check toe in but in
general when going from full rebound (springs fully extended) to full
compression( springs fully compressed) the toe in should either increase or
stay the same.  If the tires toe out, that is called bump steer and it is
considered a bad thing.  Bump steer causes the car to want to self steer.
In other words hit a bump and the car wants to dart to the right or left
even though the steering wheel has not moved.
A perfectly designed suspension will have zero toe change during normal
suspension travel.  A well designed one will have a small toe change going
from full rebound to full compression becoming more toed in as the
suspension compresses.  A poorly designed suspension will toe out on
compression.
The greater the suspension travel, the harder it is to accomplish zero toe
change.  Off road race cars with huge amounts of suspension travel (15"+)
have a serious time getting this right.
Rick

On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 3:49 PM, Dick Matson <medlabinc at msn.com> wrote:

> OK.
>
> While its 105 degrees outside so during the Beijing 2008 Olympics
> Trampoline
> event intermission I have a front end alignment question re a no-hyphen
> model
> Austin Healey.
>
> Tow in is set with the car static on the ground.  What normally happens or
> is
> supposed to happen to tow in setting when car is in motion and front
> suspension is un weighted or compressed.  Does tow in increase or decrease
> from its 1/8 or 3/16 setting as suspension travels up and down.  If so why
> ?
>
> DM / Bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Sun Aug 17 10:37:07 2008
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 12:37:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Selection help
Message-ID: <003801c90087$7d457a20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

I have just finished installing a layer of Koolmat in my 1966 BJ8.

I am looking for help in choosing a new carpet. I am torn between the 
original Karvel and the more
expensive, luxurious Wilton wool. What are your thoughts and or suggestions.

Thanks,
Jim 

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Sun Aug 17 11:09:34 2008
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:09:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BUMPERS for BJ8
Message-ID: <003c01c9008c$05fce110$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

I am looking for a new set of Bumpers for my 1966 BJ8.  I see that AH SPARES 
has new original gauge with "premium range" plating for $395 + SH. Has 
anyone purchased these  bumpers that can comment on the quality ?

Another option would be to find a good used original and have it re-chromed. 
Does anyone have a good source for used bumpers ?

Thanks,

Jim 

From PhilRitten at aol.com  Sun Aug 17 11:29:08 2008
From: PhilRitten at aol.com (PhilRitten at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:29:08 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 14 inch wire wheels
Message-ID: <d11.33152968.35d9b9e4@aol.com>

All, 
 
I have two 14 inch wire wheel/tube/tire sets that I'd like to give to  
someone, but I can't figure out what kind of car these should go on. Does  anyone 
know, and would anyone like them?
 
Thanks,
Phil



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Sun Aug 17 12:03:45 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:03:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <009e01c90074$5da26560$18e73020$@com>
References: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
	<009e01c90074$5da26560$18e73020$@com>
Message-ID: <15A6DB14-A9A5-4D1F-B0AD-E1A335942D0D@cox.net>

In most of the US, that is the ONLY legal option for road use of  
driving lights. Fog are OK with other wiring.

On Aug 17, 2008, at 7:20 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> I would recommend using the High Beam wiring for the driving light.  
> The
> cable from the dimmer switch joins to the main harness above the  
> foot well
> where the wire for the high beam light is joined in with a double  
> bullet
> connector. Just add the driving light supply in the spare hole in that
> connector. The advantage of this is that when you crest a hill with  
> high
> beams and your driving light to be confronted by surprise by an  
> oncoming car
> punching the dimmer switch will extinguish the driving light and put  
> the
> headlights in low beam. If you really want to do the best job a  
> relay can be
> installed in the circuit to minimize the possibility of overloading  
> the
> original lighting circuit...
> Michael Salter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces 
> +msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Dennis Gavin
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:57 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
>
> I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge bar on my  
> 63 BJ7.
> I have run the wires back to switches for each under the dash. Where  
> is the
> preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems so  
> crowded that
> it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once  
> again thanks
> for your efforts.

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Sun Aug 17 12:49:22 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (Price)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:49:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
Message-ID: <1173041619-1218998930-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1866356306-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Are there stock positive ground alternators that would be readily available?
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Sun Aug 17 13:24:39 2008
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:24:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fix for door not closing properly with weather strip
	installed
Message-ID: <bc6.2e1bee6e.35d9d4f7@aol.com>

A week or so ago I appealed to the forum for advice on a door that wouldn't  
close properly with the weather strip installed and never got an answer that  
would solve my problem.  Someone mentioned closing the door and hope that  the 
rubber would compress over time and stay compressed.  Someone else made  a 
new door panel using 1/8" door skin material to gain some  extra room.    
 
After about 5 sessions of trying to adjust the hinges and strike to no  
avail, I finally found the solution.  My predicament was more than likely  out of 
the ordinary as the replacement inner sill may have been welded out a  little 
to far to accommodate both the aluminum kick plate and the weather  strip.  Or 
maybe it was the new outriggers?  Maybe the new hinge and  strike pillars?  
Anyway . . . my door was flush with the front fender but  stuck out from the 
rear fender.  Today I removed the strike plate and the  aluminum trim piece 
behind it, unbolted the fender from below, drilled out the  rivets, moved the 
leading edge of the rear fender out to line up with the door,  re-drilled and 
re-riveted the fender in the new position and now I'm a very  happy camper.  Simple 
solution - no damaged paint - looks perfect!
 
Hope this helps others who may have the same problem.
 
Bill
64 BJ8  



**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sun Aug 17 13:28:14 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:28:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <1173041619-1218998930-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1866356306-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAL+mgo/gPNtBg6p2kGAV3AgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Yes

http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7701

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Price
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:49 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator

Are there stock positive ground alternators that would be readily available?

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 17 14:00:16 2008
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:00:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Torrey Pines 100S
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D109577@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <476373.60279.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Ken;  I just curious; did you every get an answer to your question?
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Thu, 12/13/07, Freese, Ken <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com> wrote: <<
Anybody ever hear of one of the 1954 Pan American 100S team cars getting a
detour to California for a race before going back to the UK?  There is a
listing for the late November Torrey Pines race of a 100S with owner Donald
Healey. Roy Jackson-Moore is listed as the driver.  A question to Roy is
pending.  Logistically, I think it is feasible.    Ken Freese  100S Registrar
>>



      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
favourite sites. Download it now at
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 14:01:16 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:01:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAL+mgo/gPNtBg6p2kGAV3AgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <1173041619-1218998930-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1866356306-@bxe126.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAL+mgo/gPNtBg6p2kGAV3AgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808171301m1ab5c315gc135c35fb7257066@mail.gmail.com>

950 EUR for a positive ground alternator outright?  That's $1400 US.  Plus
shipping.
Damn those guys are proud of those alternators.
Obviously I picked the wrong line of work.  I should start building fake
Lucas generators.


On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 12:28 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) <
lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

> Yes
>
> http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7701
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+lists <healeys-bounces%2Blists>=brits-n-pieces.com
> @autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Price
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:49 PM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
>
> Are there stock positive ground alternators that would be readily
> available?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From justbrits at comcast.net  Sun Aug 17 15:39:03 2008
From: justbrits at comcast.net (JB@comcast)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:39:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808171301m1ab5c315gc135c35fb7257066@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEFPCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>

<<950 EUR for a positive ground alternator outright?  That's $1400 US.>>

Page I saw said 150 Euro = $220.3349???

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Aug 17 14:52:47 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:52:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEFPCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
References: <a3b984e10808171301m1ab5c315gc135c35fb7257066@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEFPCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <010c01c900ab$347c9fc0$9d75df40$@net>

You misread. The page says from 660 Euros. If you want positive ground it is
140 euros extra. If you do not want to send in a core it is 150 euros extra.
That equals 950 euros. Plus tax plus shipping.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
JB at comcast
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 5:39 PM
To: 1shop
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator

<<950 EUR for a positive ground alternator outright?  That's $1400 US.>>

Page I saw said 150 Euro = $220.3349???
_______________________________________________

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 14:55:53 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 13:55:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEFPCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
References: <a3b984e10808171301m1ab5c315gc135c35fb7257066@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNMEFPCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808171355g22492126v73c0023116c5dc99@mail.gmail.com>

Go back and read for detail
In the upper right hand corner it says FROM EUR 660
ADD EUR 150 for outright and ADD EUR 140 for positive ground.
So to buy outright a positive ground unit it would cost 660 + 150+ 140= 950
EUR  According to Google 950 EUR = 1,93.46
Impressive to say the least.  Want to go into my fake Lucas generator
building business?  Distributorships available.
Rick

On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 2:39 PM, JB at comcast <justbrits at comcast.net> wrote:

> <<950 EUR for a positive ground alternator outright?  That's $1400 US.>>
>
> Page I saw said 150 Euro = $220.3349???
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug 17 15:20:44 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 17:20:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 14 inch wire wheels
References: <d11.33152968.35d9b9e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c900af$1bec7d50$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

14" wire wheels are most likely from an MGB.

Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <PhilRitten at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 14 inch wire wheels


> All,
>
> I have two 14 inch wire wheel/tube/tire sets that I'd like to give to
> someone, but I can't figure out what kind of car these should go on. Does 
> anyone
> know, and would anyone like them?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 
>  )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug 17 16:05:23 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:05:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
	<004701c9005c$0c81bc70$3930e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <007f01c900b5$58cc14a0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Mark,

I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for many 
years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design that BMC 
originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever since and 
they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is such 
that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant through the 
radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <PhilRitten at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt


> Phil,   after much "to do" over thermostats and such, reviewing different
> lists and listening to
> different tech lectures,   I found that the over the counter Stant or
> similar technology works just fine for our cars.  Personally I wouldn't 
> hold
> myself up for a part that really isn't necessary in the long run, that is 
> if
> the rest of your cooling system is in order.
>
> The newer technology is just as good as the older ideas in this case.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <PhilRitten at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 5:17 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
>>I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they tell me 
>>it
>> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
>> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
>> budget?
>> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007
>>  )
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au  Sun Aug 17 16:18:30 2008
From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry Rowe)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:18:30 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com><004701c9005c$0c81bc70$3930e046@markl946cfrd7q>
	<007f01c900b5$58cc14a0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <AC8FF387A23A4499985BBB996CD8D33D@rowe4323ef3cc5>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <PhilRitten at aol.com>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt


> Mark,
>
> I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for many
> years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design that BMC
> originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever since and
> they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is such
> that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant through 
> the
> radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> : [Healeys] Thermostadt>>

From chutchko at nalco.com  Sun Aug 17 16:21:45 2008
From: chutchko at nalco.com (Charles M Hutchko)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:21:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <AC8FF387A23A4499985BBB996CD8D33D@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>

Sorry but I missed most of the discussion about thermostadts. Where do you 
get the Norman Nock type?




"John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
Sent by: healeys-bounces+chutchko=nalco.com at autox.team.net
08/17/2008 06:18 PM
 
        To:     "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
        cc:     Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
        Subject:        Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <PhilRitten at aol.com>; 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt


> Mark,
>
> I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for many
> years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design that 
BMC
> originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever since 
and
> they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is 
such
> that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant through 

> the
> radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> : [Healeys] Thermostadt>>
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as chutchko at nalco.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Sun Aug 17 17:04:32 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 00:04:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com><935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5><BAY101-W3807F8663C0549C61FE658A56C0@phx.gbl>
	<F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>
Message-ID: <60D79DDA57CE424AB6ECAD610BF80C6C@company92305fb>

Yes, John you're quite right. They've never been the same since they were
bought out.
If you live in England though they are (were?) remarkable for their
chrome/stainless wire wheels. Consistently cheaper than the main distributor
whose name escapes me. Very strange.
I very seldom use SC now. Maybe one should call them ** in this public
forum?
SC SC SC
Simon


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John & Kerry Rowe
Sent: 17 August 2008 02:55
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt

Have you ever tried SCParts in UK-now that is a different story!- so/so 
parts at times-very so/so service most of the time. Will reply to emails 
when you want to order something, but when you question something, never 
answer them
Never tried Moss Motors so cannot comment

John Rowe  Qld Aust
BN1 BT7

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 17:10:49 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:10:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
References: <AC8FF387A23A4499985BBB996CD8D33D@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808171610p89483f2gf6a57e6e8ae997a5@mail.gmail.com>

There is a rumor that you can get the Norman Nock style T-stat from these
guys http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/index.shtml
~VBG~  <-Ed ism

On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 3:21 PM, Charles M Hutchko <chutchko at nalco.com>wrote:

> Sorry but I missed most of the discussion about thermostadts. Where do you
> get the Norman Nock type?
>
>
>
>
> "John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
> Sent by: healeys-bounces+chutchko=nalco.com at autox.team.net
> 08/17/2008 06:18 PM
>
>        To:     "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
>         cc:     Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         Subject:        Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <PhilRitten at aol.com>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
> > Mark,
> >
> > I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for many
> > years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design that
> BMC
> > originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever since
> and
> > they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is
> such
> > that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant through
>
> > the
> > radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> >
> > : [Healeys] Thermostadt>>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as chutchko at nalco.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 17:10:49 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:10:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
References: <AC8FF387A23A4499985BBB996CD8D33D@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808171610p89483f2gf6a57e6e8ae997a5@mail.gmail.com>

There is a rumor that you can get the Norman Nock style T-stat from these
guys http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/index.shtml
~VBG~  <-Ed ism

On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 3:21 PM, Charles M Hutchko <chutchko at nalco.com>wrote:

> Sorry but I missed most of the discussion about thermostadts. Where do you
> get the Norman Nock type?
>
>
>
>
> "John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
> Sent by: healeys-bounces+chutchko=nalco.com at autox.team.net
> 08/17/2008 06:18 PM
>
>        To:     "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
>         cc:     Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         Subject:        Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <PhilRitten at aol.com>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
> > Mark,
> >
> > I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for many
> > years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design that
> BMC
> > originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever since
> and
> > they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is
> such
> > that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant through
>
> > the
> > radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.
> >
> > Rich Chrysler
> >
> > : [Healeys] Thermostadt>>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as chutchko at nalco.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug 17 17:18:14 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 19:18:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat
Message-ID: <20080817.191815.4100.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

I used SC back in the mid to late 80's when Fred Draper was there. I
understand he worked for Donald and was a decent chap to  deal with. At
that time they still had NOS parts and it was cheaper to buy from them
and have it sent here than to purchase domestically.

Doug

> Yes, John you're quite right. They've never been the same since they 
> were
> bought out.
> If you live in England though they are (were?) remarkable for their
> chrome/stainless wire wheels. Consistently cheaper than the main 
> distributor
> whose name escapes me. Very strange.
> I very seldom use SC now. Maybe one should call them ** in this 
> public
> forum?
> SC SC SC
> Simon
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of John & Kerry Rowe
> Sent: 17 August 2008 02:55
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
> 
> Have you ever tried SCParts in UK-now that is a different story!- 
> so/so 
> parts at times-very so/so service most of the time. Will reply to 
> emails 
> when you want to order something, but when you question something, 
> never 
> answer them
> Never tried Moss Motors so cannot comment
> 
> John Rowe  Qld Aust
> BN1 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Get life insurance quotes from top companies.  Click Now.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2vyONpIvESM3tpP8MGu2O57Pnci5s124uI1kS5hpiPxsXa/

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 17 18:03:05 2008
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:03:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat
In-Reply-To: <20080817.191815.4100.2.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20080817.191815.4100.2.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <48A8BC39.8060604@earthlink.net>

I think Fred founded AH Spares.

I bought some parts for my '64 Mini from SC Parts during the last year. 
Not a good experience - incomplete order, no automatic backorder, no 
response to emails, wrong parts shipped, charged for shipping correct 
parts, over a month to credit returned parts, etc. I won't be ordering from 
them again.

Bob

Douglas W Flagg wrote:
> I used SC back in the mid to late 80's when Fred Draper was there. I
> understand he worked for Donald and was a decent chap to  deal with. At
> that time they still had NOS parts and it was cheaper to buy from them
> and have it sent here than to purchase domestically.
> 
> Doug
> 
>> Yes, John you're quite right. They've never been the same since they 
>> were
>> bought out.
>> If you live in England though they are (were?) remarkable for their
>> chrome/stainless wire wheels. Consistently cheaper than the main 
>> distributor
>> whose name escapes me. Very strange.
>> I very seldom use SC now. Maybe one should call them ** in this 
>> public
>> forum?
>> SC SC SC
>> Simon
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] 
>> On
>> Behalf Of John & Kerry Rowe
>> Sent: 17 August 2008 02:55
>> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
>> Cc: Healey List
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>>
>> Have you ever tried SCParts in UK-now that is a different story!- 
>> so/so 
>> parts at times-very so/so service most of the time. Will reply to 
>> emails 
>> when you want to order something, but when you question something, 
>> never 
>> answer them
>> Never tried Moss Motors so cannot comment
>>
>> John Rowe  Qld Aust
>> BN1 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>
>  
> ____________________________________________________________
> Get life insurance quotes from top companies.  Click Now.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2vyONpIvESM3tpP8MGu2O57Pnci5s124uI1kS5hpiPxsXa/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug 17 18:15:41 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:15:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Selection help
References: <003801c90087$7d457a20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <00c401c900c7$8c7bb820$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Jim,

Order your new set of "Karvel" carpets from Heritage Upholstery and Trim. 
Their Karvel is the closest you can get to the "right stuff".

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Lyons" <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 12:37 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Selection help


>I have just finished installing a layer of Koolmat in my 1966 BJ8.
>
> I am looking for help in choosing a new carpet. I am torn between the
> original Karvel and the more
> expensive, luxurious Wilton wool. What are your thoughts and or 
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Aug 17 18:18:37 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:18:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Thermostat
Message-ID: <00cf01c900c7$f5a60580$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Hello all,

My friend Doug Flagg is a little confused here. Fred Draper, ex spares dept. 
manager at Donald Healey Motor Works founded AH Spares in Leamington Spa, 
Warwickshire in the early '70's. As far as I know there was never any
 relationship between Mr. Draper and SC Parts.

Rich Chrysler


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostat
>
>
>>I think Fred founded AH Spares.
>>
>> I bought some parts for my '64 Mini from SC Parts during the last year.
>> Not a good experience - incomplete order, no automatic backorder, no
>> response to emails, wrong parts shipped, charged for shipping correct
>> parts, over a month to credit returned parts, etc. I won't be ordering 
>> from
>> them again.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Douglas W Flagg wrote:
>>> I used SC back in the mid to late 80's when Fred Draper was there. I
>>> understand he worked for Donald and was a decent chap to  deal with. At
>>> that time they still had NOS parts and it was cheaper to buy from them
>>> and have it sent here than to purchase domestically.
>>>
>>> Doug

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 18:55:42 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:55:42 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <60D79DDA57CE424AB6ECAD610BF80C6C@company92305fb>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
	<935F1E59F116470496434C9809FD0BEC@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<BAY101-W3807F8663C0549C61FE658A56C0@phx.gbl>
	<F798E891D51F40FB983C47604489B8E9@rowe4323ef3cc5>
	<60D79DDA57CE424AB6ECAD610BF80C6C@company92305fb>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808171755k3a59a636t4e6def5227e4b19b@mail.gmail.com>

Simon / John -

SC parts is where Moss gets most of their stock.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at 7:04 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Yes, John you're quite right. They've never been the same since they were
> bought out.
> If you live in England though they are (were?) remarkable for their
> chrome/stainless wire wheels. Consistently cheaper than the main
> distributor
> whose name escapes me. Very strange.
> I very seldom use SC now. Maybe one should call them ** in this public
> forum?
> SC SC SC
> Simon

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 17 19:30:20 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 09:30:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Selection help
In-Reply-To: <003801c90087$7d457a20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <003801c90087$7d457a20$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808171830r645e477bj8fe7e63be7e2fbec@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

Wilton wool is a very good carpet, but is an absolute b**ch to work with.
The sisal backing (or whatever it is) is very very stiff.  That's ok for the
floor pans, but it'll be impossible for your trimmer to get the stuff to fit
around the tunnel and look nice.  The upside is the stiff sisal backing is
very good for allowing water to evaporate and escape the floorpans.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at 12:37 AM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>wrote:

> I have just finished installing a layer of Koolmat in my 1966 BJ8.
>
> I am looking for help in choosing a new carpet. I am torn between the
> original Karvel and the more
> expensive, luxurious Wilton wool. What are your thoughts and or
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From justbrits at comcast.net  Sun Aug 17 21:09:59 2008
From: justbrits at comcast.net (JB@comcast)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 21:09:59 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Positive Ground Alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808171355g22492126v73c0023116c5dc99@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNAEHBCLAA.justbrits@comcast.net>

<<According to Google 950 EUR = 1,93.46>>

Well, think I'll order a dozen or so, Rick!!!!

<<Impressive to say the least.>>

I did NOT 'notice' the PLATINUM plating?!?!?  Did you???

Just to make sure you were 'correct', I added to "Shopping Cart".
Not even ONE is being ordered by me!!!  Wonder how many Org. Gennies
could be 'ground-up' re-built for that?!?!?!?

<<Want to go into my fake Lucas generator
building business?  Distributorships available.>>

He||, I go in on funding the startup business!!!!!!  Sell for 500EUR and we
can make a KILLING !!!!!!!

<V V V V V V BG>!!!!

From bj8healey at msn.com  Mon Aug 18 06:55:46 2008
From: bj8healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 06:55:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Carpets and BUMPERS
Message-ID: <BLU133-DS165EFA5E439AF4AD9A8D1E96E0@phx.gbl>

Jim,

I did wilton wool in my BJ8 from Heritage and have never looked back.  I also
would recommend getting your original bumpers rechromed ..  One of mine was
tweeked a bit and one over-rider had a dent and they look like new now.  There
are many good chrome shops.

Cheers

Jim Sailer 66 BJ8

><((((:>   ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7...  ><((((:>
    ><((((:>   ><((((:>
                ><((((:>

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Aug 18 09:01:06 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:01:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <d0b.2f9705e7.35d73c7a@aol.com>
References: <d0b.2f9705e7.35d73c7a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015021AC@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

 Just somewhat related info on the 100S method of dual fuel pumps: They
were controled by a push button switch (very rare) that switched between
the two pumps. No off position. Each pump had its own pump intake tube.
One positioned a little higher than the other inside the tank. That way
the lower one was the "reserve".

Ken Freese
100S Registrar

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 09:21:13 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:21:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] window channel sources?
In-Reply-To: <00ad01c8ffb8$a91462d0$6401a8c0@Edsoffice>
References: <00ad01c8ffb8$a91462d0$6401a8c0@Edsoffice>
Message-ID: <4392CA10-91C1-45C7-B9FE-B8885187A777@sbcglobal.net>

Ed, we have these available new. You can contact John in my parts  
department and he can take care of it for you.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 16, 2008, at 8:56 AM, Ed Townley wrote:

> Gents--need assistance in sourcing a either a front piece (or entire
> three piece)window channel for RH door of my BJ8.
> This is NA from Moss, but is listed as illustration nr. 110 (P/N
> 021-948)at
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx? 
> PlateIndexID=28957#top
>
> Either new or used is ok.  Any assistance is appreciated, as always.
> Regards,
> Ed Townley
> Southern NM, USA
>
> 64 BJ8
> 59 AN5
> 60 AN5 RHD
> 55 Austin FX3 Taxi
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1615 - Release Date:
> 8/16/2008 7:11 AM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 09:25:39 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:25:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
References: <caa.31bff19b.35d89de0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B5D27F72-8416-4F45-9214-846C408214FA@sbcglobal.net>

The sleeved themostat that Moss is not the one that I would  
recommend. It is a old antique style bellows style thermostat that  
went out in the 50s. The problem with them is that the are not  
designed to fail in the open mode as well as if the pressure in the  
cooling system get to high it will collapse the bellows and close the  
thermostat causing a overheating problem.

We have a wax capsule style thermostat the has the correct sleeve to  
close off the bypass in stock.


On Aug 16, 2008, at 2:17 PM, PhilRitten at aol.com wrote:

> I ordered a "sleeved" thermostat from M*** a month ago, and they  
> tell me it
> will be another month (maybe) before they have it in stock. Any
> recommendations  on another place to get these?
>
> TIA,
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your  
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review? 
> ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 18 09:45:16 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 08:45:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostadt
In-Reply-To: <OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
References: <OF037E99C6.76E9B9CE-ON852574A8.007AB139-852574A8.007AD755@nalco.com>
Message-ID: <B5603053-3991-4706-A38D-429EC4F41311@sbcglobal.net>

You can call John in my parts dept and he can get one on its way to you.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 17, 2008, at 3:21 PM, Charles M Hutchko wrote:

> Sorry but I missed most of the discussion about thermostadts. Where  
> do you
> get the Norman Nock type?
>
>
>
>
> "John & Kerry Rowe" <jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au>
> Sent by: healeys-bounces+chutchko=nalco.com at autox.team.net
> 08/17/2008 06:18 PM
>
>         To:     "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
>         cc:     Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         Subject:        Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <PhilRitten at aol.com>;
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermostadt
>
>
>> Mark,
>>
>> I have used the "normal" thermostats in the 6 cylinder Healeys for  
>> many
>> years, and then learned from Norman Nock about the sleeved design  
>> that
> BMC
>> originally fitted to the cars. I have been installing these ever  
>> since
> and
>> they do in fact make quite a difference. The cylinder head design is
> such
>> that the sleeve blocks off the bypass port to force more coolant  
>> through
>
>> the
>> radiator instead of recirculating around in the head.
>>
>> Rich Chrysler
>>
>> : [Healeys] Thermostadt>>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as chutchko at nalco.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Aug 18 09:58:34 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:58:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015021AC@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <d0b.2f9705e7.35d73c7a@aol.com>
	<0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015021AC@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <ZcgePrEqwZqIFwZN@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Ken

This is more or less the same as I have on my 100 that was factory 
converted to take the rare 15 gallon fuel tank when young. This has the 
two outlet pipes as you describe and two normal long body SU electric 
pumps.

However although this was changed by a previous owner there are two 
period on/off toggle switches. I can see this from an old photograph. I 
have the two switches back as they were.

So long as I keep more than about 3 gallons in the tank I have 
resilience against pump failure. I normally run with the pump fed from 
the higher pick-up pipe so that I have a reserve.

In theory I can turn both pumps on and get more flow but I have never 
found this necessary.

One thing that is somewhat of a nuisance is that a standard sender unit 
is fitted and because of the extra tank height which is about 1 1/4" the 
gauge reads empty when I still have fuel available. I could lengthen the 
float arm but then the set up would not be as the factory fitted.

Regards

> Just somewhat related info on the 100S method of dual fuel pumps: They
>were controled by a push button switch (very rare) that switched between
>the two pumps. No off position. Each pump had its own pump intake tube.
>One positioned a little higher than the other inside the tank. That way
>the lower one was the "reserve".
>
>Ken Freese
>100S Registrar
-- 
John Harper

From al at bighealey.org  Mon Aug 18 17:07:06 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:07:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
In-Reply-To: <001a01c90059$a6b5a020$3930e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <004601c90187$238d8620$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Isn't there a whole section on overdrive trouble diagnosis in the manual??
Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
LaPierre
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:09 AM
To: Michael Salter; 'edwardkiessling'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive

Come on,  there has to be a simpler test than this.

This is enough to make someone want to sell there Healey just to by pass the
hassle.

Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'edward kiessling'" <ekiessling at sbcglobal.net>;
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive


> Hi Ted & Les,
> You need to determine if the failure to disengage is caused by the
> overdrive's hydraulic system retaining pressure or if the problem is
> mechanical.
> The easiest way is to, remove the gearbox tunnel, get the rear wheels off
> the ground, "drive" the car until the "locked in overdrive" condition is
> achieved (engine stopped), then remove the operating valve plug to see if
> there is residual oil pressure. If, once the pressure is relieved the
> overdrive becomes disengaged the most likely problem is the "bleed off"
> hole
> in the side of the operating valve.
> Michael Salter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of edward kiessling
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:08 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] overdrive
>
> Need help ----Bt7 overdrive refusing to disengage-has been rebuilt.
>
>  thanks Ted& Les
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as msalter at precisionsportscar.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Mon Aug 18 17:10:13 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:10:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Torrey Pines 100S
In-Reply-To: <476373.60279.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D109577@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
	<476373.60279.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D015021BE@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Scott,
No, I did not get answer.
Ken

________________________________

From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris at yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 1:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Freese, Ken
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1954 Torrey Pines 100S


Hello Ken;  I just curious; did you every get an answer to your
question?
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Thu, 12/13/07, Freese, Ken <Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com> wrote: <<
Anybody ever hear of one of the 1954 Pan American 100S team cars getting
a detour to California for a race before going back to the UK?  There is
a listing for the late November Torrey Pines race of a 100S with owner
Donald Healey. Roy Jackson-Moore is listed as the driver.  A question to
Roy is pending.  Logistically, I think it is feasible.    Ken Freese
100S Registrar >>
Toolbar : Search from anywhere on the web and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now! <http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com/>

From al at bighealey.org  Mon Aug 18 17:11:42 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:11:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <001f01c90068$b7fa4200$27eec600$@com>
Message-ID: <004701c90187$c79fc840$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Dennis:

I have the lights mounted on my bar and am going to wire them up "soon".
Anyway, I called Moss to find out the draw on them to see how I want to
proceed.

I'm told they are 48 watts each.  At nominal running voltage of 13.6 volts,
that's over seven (7) amps.  I'm not comfortable adding that to the stock
fuse block, so I will use my auxiliary fuse block, and probably use a relay
so the full load doesn't have to travel back into the cockpit to the switch.

YMMV,

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis
Gavin
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights

I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge bar on my 63 BJ7.
I have run the wires back to switches for each under the dash. Where is the
preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems so crowded that
it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once again thanks
for your efforts.



Dennis Gavin

Sudbury, MA.

63 BJ7

63 E-Type Jag
_______________________________________________

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Mon Aug 18 17:44:19 2008
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood H Rose)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:44:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wax or polish
Message-ID: <80EA1BB7-70F5-4EC3-97D9-8A0B920A4093@mac.com>

Hello fellow polishers and shine lovers,

I have used just about every kind and brand of wax or polish on my  
cars over the years. I will be the first to say that I am not a  
chemist and do not even desire to better understand what makes a  
polish shine or a wax adhere. I have used a number of products with  
which I was quite satisfied (the usual list you all know), but I am  
always experimenting.

I came home from Encounter last week and decided to give the car a  
good clean-up. I was in one of my local automotive stores and the  
manager mentioned to me that he had been using a fairly new product on  
his car and motorcycle and suggested that I try it.

Well, I think the stuff is great. It is called "Ice" synthetic paste  
polish by Turtle Wax. My wife calls me a cynic - I same that I am just  
a skeptic and I admit that as I used "Ice" I was dubious of the  
manager's claims, but the stuff is fantastic. It has absolutely NO  
residue - none. No dust, high shine, no streaking, easy on and easy  
off. You can get it on rubber, vinyl or glass with no remaining visual  
evidence of your over zealous applicator pad. You use a special micro  
fibre cloth to remove. It is no exaggeration to say best polishing  
product I have ever used.

I know nothing about how long it will last, nor whether it is  
"healthy" for the paint. The container proclamation claims "more  
durable than the leading paste."

I am sure that there will be those on the list who know more about the  
"science" of car finishes. I am simply suggesting that you might want  
to try this product and see what you think.

Turtle wax web site:
http://www.turtlewax.com/

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Mon Aug 18 18:18:35 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 17:18:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <004701c90187$c79fc840$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
References: <004701c90187$c79fc840$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
Message-ID: <80D61131-C849-499F-B63C-F145F2273D54@cox.net>

Many auto stores sell a switch, relay and wiring kit for fog lights  
that is very helpful.

On Aug 18, 2008, at 4:11 PM, Al Fuller wrote:

> Dennis:
>
> I have the lights mounted on my bar and am going to wire them up  
> "soon".
> Anyway, I called Moss to find out the draw on them to see how I want  
> to
> proceed.
>
> I'm told they are 48 watts each.  At nominal running voltage of 13.6  
> volts,
> that's over seven (7) amps.  I'm not comfortable adding that to the  
> stock
> fuse block, so I will use my auxiliary fuse block, and probably use  
> a relay
> so the full load doesn't have to travel back into the cockpit to the  
> switch.
>
> YMMV,
>
> Al
>
> Al Fuller
> Fuller Compliance, LLC
>
> Quality Systems Consulting
> Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11
>
> 714.335.0248
> www.fullercompliance.com
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Mon Aug 18 19:13:20 2008
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter Linn)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 11:13:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Collapsible steering column
Message-ID: <DE22DB68D0454B4CB65A7DE26850E9AD@PeterPC>

G'day list

I'm looking into how may hoops I'll have to jump through to get my Holden V6
engined BN1 approved for registration in Queensland. Some of the upgrades
required are dual circuit brakes, demister, two speed wipers, retractable seat
belts and collapsible steering column. I have potential solutions to all of
these except the steering column. I understand that Cape and SC Parts (perhaps
others) supply a collapsible column on an exchange basis (for an arm and a
leg!) for BN2 onwards. Anyone have any experience with these or have other
solutions to this issue in a late BN1?


BN1 Ward Special coupe
BN1 V6

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 18 19:23:53 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:23:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday, October 5, 2008
Message-ID: <13280851.1219109033568.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

29th ANNUAL SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY
Sunday, October 5, 2008

San Diego British Car Day Website at:
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Twenty eight years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together
over picnics at a park to view each othersb cars, and enjoy each othersb
friendship. This year, we begin to return to that heritage. Over the past 28
years the event has grown considerably and now attracts participants from all
over California and beyond. We are proud that this event has become one of the
premier British car shows in California. In the past few years, we have
incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among other things,
permits and insurance. Thus, starting this year,
we have made some changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event.
For instance, there will be no program or raffle at this yearbs show. Also,
due to the increased expenses, we have had to increase our registration fees
by $5.00. We continue to provide a wonderful experience, including a variety
of vendors, Hoggbs Beach BBQ, the very popular Cameron Highlander Bagpipers
and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing pleasure.

The San Diego British Car Club Council is a California nonprofit mutual
benefit corporation.

OCTOBER 5th EVENT SCHEDULE

7:30 b 10:00 Registration -- Park in your Marque area as directed/signed
10:00 b 3:00 Cars on display
11:30 b 12:00 Judging for best b
Classic Elegantb
 English picnic
12:00 Ballots must be presented to the Club ballot boxes for cars of choice.
Clubs count the ballots and turn in at the Judging boothbb
on
        the hillb
 by the Minis
12:00 b 2:00 Picnic or Lunch at your leisure . . .
         and please pick up your trash!
12:30 Ballots MUST be turned into the Judging booth
2:00 Awards presentation
3:00 to ??? Enjoy the rest of the day . . . exit carefully please

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

On the above event, or any particular Club or marque in attendance today b
most have Web pages, and can be linked by going to the San Diego British Car
Day Website at: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org or by calling the information
line: 760-746-1458

Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car
Make Check Payable to: BCCC
MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego, CA 92171-0131

QUESTIONS?
Please call San Diego British Car Day
Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Thank you!

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Aug 18 19:27:43 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 09:27:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Collapsible steering column
In-Reply-To: <DE22DB68D0454B4CB65A7DE26850E9AD@PeterPC>
References: <DE22DB68D0454B4CB65A7DE26850E9AD@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808181827o13256626u33aa2409c93bafd@mail.gmail.com>

Peter -

I have seen the Cape kit and am using a Cape rebuilt RHD steering column in
my BJ8.  The quality is excellent.  The only downside is your trafficator
will have to be replaced with a column or dash switch of some sort.  Since
you are keeping a Holden V6 (gasp!) in your second BN1 I reckon having
something non-stock in your car isn't a problem for you!

Best Regards,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 9:13 AM, Peter Linn <greylinn at ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> G'day list
>
> I'm looking into how may hoops I'll have to jump through to get my Holden
> V6
> engined BN1 approved for registration in Queensland. Some of the upgrades
> required are dual circuit brakes, demister, two speed wipers, retractable
> seat
> belts and collapsible steering column. I have potential solutions to all of
> these except the steering column. I understand that Cape and SC Parts
> (perhaps
> others) supply a collapsible column on an exchange basis (for an arm and a
> leg!) for BN2 onwards. Anyone have any experience with these or have other
> solutions to this issue in a late BN1?
>
>
> BN1 Ward Special coupe
> BN1 V6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From thomas3 at shaw.ca  Mon Aug 18 19:41:14 2008
From: thomas3 at shaw.ca (rick thomas)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:41:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thermostate
Message-ID: <d0fa944a41502.48a9ec7a@shaw.ca>

Hi All
I just ordered one of these thermostats that we are all discussing from Norman
Nock
had it in 4 days including a border crossing
he must have them in stock

 Rick
67 BJ8

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 18 19:56:26 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 21:56:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Correct info - SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY - Sunday,
 October 5, 2008
Message-ID: <18219634.1219110987052.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dear Folks,

Sorry but the recent publication of the info about the San Diego British Car
Meet was a confused communication that is totally wrong - Hope you don't mind
deleting the first one I sent and pay attention to this one.

Sorry about the confusion - thanks for your understanding ...

Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

29th San Diego British Car Day and Picnic
Admiral Baker Field, San Diego, CA
Sunday, October 5, 2008

San Diego British Car Day Website at:
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Twenty-nine years ago, a hearty band of British car enthusiasts got together
over picnics at a park to view each otherbs cars, and enjoy each otherbs
friendship. This year, we return to that heritage. Over
the past 29 years the event has grown considerably and now attracts
participants from all over California and beyond. We are proud that this event
has become one of the premier British car shows in California. In the past few
years, we have incurred considerable additional expenses relating to, among
other things, forming a corporation, and insurance. Thus, we have made some
changes in keeping with the original spirit of the event. For

instance, there will be no vendors, program or raffle at this yearbs show.
We continue to provide a wonderful experience, the very popular Cameron
Highlander Bagpipers and over 400 diverse English cars for your viewing
pleasure. Have a Great Day!!

Pre-Registration Fee: $20.00 per car
Make Check Payable to: BCCC
MAIL BY SEPT. 12th to: San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego, CA 92171-0131

QUESTIONS?
Please call San Diego British Car Day
Information Line: 760 - 746 - 1458
www.sandiegobritishcarday.org

Thank you!

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 18 20:28:51 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:28:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Wheels & Tires: 32038's rubber meets the road...
Message-ID: <798012.35569.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,

Last week was the annual auto extraviganza here in the Monterey area.  As
always a blast and not to be missed .....

32038 was ready enough to drive - interior not finished, no soft top but has a
tonneau, varoius smaller things to do.  But, has oil pressure, gears, lights,
seats, even the bla bla new wheels and tires.

Which leads me to the point - the decision to go with 15x5 daytons and 185x15
vreds was just fine - right diameter, fills wheel arch, good visuals, and just
looks so much better than the 15x4 1/2 with 165x15 from 10 feet.  For those
interested enough to see the visuals pls email requesting jpgs to
rnb at ix.netcom.com - now available.  Sorry to those that had asked - pls email
again.  So far so good......

I had previously written Part I and Part II on this resto which has been
published in Healey Mag.  I will do a final Part III shortly.

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow/Dark Red BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From jsa6768 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 18 20:41:19 2008
From: jsa6768 at yahoo.com (Jack Adams)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 19:41:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Price
Message-ID: <4383.48925.qm@web59613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

My friend wants to sell his 1962 BN7 Tri-Carb.
It's a project car, its a later car with a top-shift trans. 
It's complete, but the engine and trans are out of it. 
They are together and have never been fooled with.
The car needs floors, trunk floor, outriggers, rockers, and lower fender patches .
Does anybody have any ideas about how much he should ask for 
a car like this?

Jack
56' BN2

From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net  Mon Aug 18 21:11:14 2008
From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 05:11:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Collapsible steering column
In-Reply-To: <DE22DB68D0454B4CB65A7DE26850E9AD@PeterPC>
References: <DE22DB68D0454B4CB65A7DE26850E9AD@PeterPC>
Message-ID: <1604DE24-7DB8-4F7E-BE23-E9733E8B087E@bornet.net>

There is a company in Holland that makes a collapsible steering column
which lets you retain the trafficator fully functional. To a much
better price than what Cape offers. Capes solution is very nice and
very much racing with a removable quick lock steering wheel but very
pricey.

I don4t know the company in Holland but I know their resellers in
England, A Head 4 Healeys; http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/
I suggest that you phone them about this.

The cheapest but more labour intensive option is to go to the junk
yard and buy a modern collapsible column and by cutting and welding,
incorporating the unit into your Healey column. I4ve done this several
times and I have used the parts from an Opel Astra.

Best regards
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden


19 aug 2008 kl. 03.13 skrev Peter Linn:

> G'day list
>
> I'm looking into how may hoops I'll have to jump through to get my
> Holden V6
> engined BN1 approved for registration in Queensland. Some of the
> upgrades
> required are dual circuit brakes, demister, two speed wipers,
> retractable seat
> belts and collapsible steering column. I have potential solutions to
> all of
> these except the steering column. I understand that Cape and SC
> Parts (perhaps
> others) supply a collapsible column on an exchange basis (for an arm
> and a
> leg!) for BN2 onwards. Anyone have any experience with these or have
> other
> solutions to this issue in a late BN1?
>
>
> BN1 Ward Special coupe
> BN1 V6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as magnuskarlsson at bornet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From al at bighealey.org  Mon Aug 18 21:14:38 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 23:14:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <94355.54603.qm@web83313.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c901a9$b8127d10$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Norm:

Thanks for the thought.  I like to look out for issues like this before they
come up.  For that reason, I took the precaution to look up the bulb wattage
and calculate the current draw - AND I already do have an alternator
installed!!

Thanks again for looking out for us,

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Nock [mailto:sjnnock at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:30 PM
To: Al Fuller
Cc: healeys at autox.tem.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights

Al fuller .. If you drive with your head lights on and both driving lights
on your battery will go flat ,your engine will stop ,  you would have been
using more electricity than the generator could supply , if this happened in
the middle of Nevada  at 2AM , nobody would stop to help you .. you should
install an alternator to cover the extra load , or don't use both ...
   See page 118 in my Tech Talk book   Norman Nock



--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org> wrote:

> From: Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
> To: "'Dennis Gavin'" <djg at gavinassociates.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 4:11 PM
> Dennis:
>
> I have the lights mounted on my bar and am going to wire
> them up "soon".
> Anyway, I called Moss to find out the draw on them to see
> how I want to
> proceed.
>
> I'm told they are 48 watts each.  At nominal running
> voltage of 13.6 volts,
> that's over seven (7) amps.  I'm not comfortable
> adding that to the stock
> fuse block, so I will use my auxiliary fuse block, and
> probably use a relay
> so the full load doesn't have to travel back into the
> cockpit to the switch.
>
> YMMV,
>
> Al
>
> Al Fuller
> Fuller Compliance, LLC
>
> Quality Systems Consulting
> Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11
>
> 714.335.0248
>  www.fullercompliance.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Dennis
> Gavin
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:57 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
>
> I have installed a fog light and a road light on the badge
> bar on my 63 BJ7.
> I have run the wires back to switches for each under the
> dash. Where is the
> preferred location to pick up power as the fuse block seems
> so crowded that
> it would look messy. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Once again thanks
> for your efforts.
>
>
>
> Dennis Gavin
>
> Sudbury, MA.
>
> 63 BJ7
>
> 63 E-Type Jag
> _______________________________________________

From ruvino at ripnet.com  Tue Aug 19 07:36:27 2008
From: ruvino at ripnet.com (Dr. C. Rubino)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 09:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 4 eyes better than 2
Message-ID: <92FC902F561345B0A8755697E5E57186@RubinoPC>

Since the spring I have noticed an increased slack or sloppiness in my
steering. Have checked fluid levels-no problem. Made the appropriate
adjustments to the pin with some minor improvement. Checked front end
everything seemed to be OK.

This past weekend drove to a british car show over some really nice windy
roads and was constantly having to overcorrect my steering to the point where
it was a bit scary.

so with one of us moving the steering wheel and the other under the front of
the car-wow! the steering box was moving. Tightened the 2 bolts and steering
is as solid as a rock. Pays to have 4 eyes in two heads.

Good thing as I am about to drive a couple of hundred miles to another show
this weekend.
My wife had encouraged me to increase my accident insurance but I am sure she
has never been under the car-hard to get her in it!

From henry at vmtrc.ucdavis.edu  Tue Aug 19 15:47:38 2008
From: henry at vmtrc.ucdavis.edu (henry)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 14:47:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] engine stand for AH 100
Message-ID: <48AB3F7A.7090302@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>

Hello
I would like to use the engine mounts to fasten the engine and gearbox 
to a dolly.
Does anyone have the design/dimensions for an engine dolly?
I have a welder, and lots of square tubing.
1956 100/4 BN1
Thanks for the help

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 19 16:16:59 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <904600.82654.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Al fuller .. If you drive with your head lights on and both driving lights on your battery will go flat ,your engine will stop ,  you would have been   using more electricity than the generator could supply , if this happened in the middle of Nevada  at 2AM , nobody would stop to help you .. you should install an alternator to cover the extra load , or don't use both ...
   See page 118 in my Tech Talk book   Norman Nock
  


--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org> wrote:

> From: Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
> To: "'Dennis Gavin'" <djg at gavinassociates.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 4:11 PM
> Dennis:
> 
> I have the lights mounted on my bar and am going to wire
> them up "soon".
> Anyway, I called Moss to find out the draw on them to see
> how I want to
> proceed.

From wilaby at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug 19 16:32:50 2008
From: wilaby at bellsouth.net (John Cope)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 17:32:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] engine stand for AH 100
In-Reply-To: <48AB3F7A.7090302@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
References: <48AB3F7A.7090302@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Message-ID: <A3E1A121-FB31-4437-BC85-56B5E7D21A57@bellsouth.net>

Henry:

Here's another try.

John

On Aug 19, 2008, at 4:47 PM, henry wrote:

> Hello
> I would like to use the engine mounts to fasten the engine and gearbox
> to a dolly.
> Does anyone have the design/dimensions for an engine dolly?
> I have a welder, and lots of square tubing.
> 1956 100/4 BN1
> Thanks for the help
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as wilaby at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Engine Cart Plan View-1.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Engine Cart Profie View.pdf]

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Aug 19 17:02:34 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 19:02:34 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Paul Newman at Lime Rock
Message-ID: <c2c.404f9438.35dcab0a@aol.com>

I read this in the VRG Newsletter--very sad:

"Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Lime  Rock Park was closed down for an hour and
half today to honor Paul Newman. He  was attended
by his family, close friends, Skip Barber, mechanics
on his  race team, and those who happened to be at
the track. PLN toured the track in  his Corvette race
car with his Buick V8 powered Volvo station  wagon
following. He had come to say goodbye. Diagnosed
with terminal  cancer he is not expected to live beyond
September. Race driver, actor,  humanitarian, family
man and friend b they did not come any  better."

Best--Michael




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Aug 19 17:07:38 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 19:07:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paul Newman at Lime Rock
Message-ID: <20080819.190739.6608.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

He is the last of a breed never to be seen again. Where are they when our
country needs them. And yes, Michael, it is very sad. 


> I read this in the VRG Newsletter--very sad:
> 
> "Wednesday, August 13, 2008
> Lime  Rock Park was closed down for an hour and
> half today to honor Paul Newman. He  was attended
> by his family, close friends, Skip Barber, mechanics
> on his  race team, and those who happened to be at
> the track. PLN toured the track in  his Corvette race
> car with his Buick V8 powered Volvo station  wagon
> following. He had come to say goodbye. Diagnosed
> with terminal  cancer he is not expected to live beyond
> September. Race driver, actor,  humanitarian, family
> man and friend b they did not come any  better."
> 
> Best--Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find 
> your travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as dwflagg at juno.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
Click here and choose from thousands of high quality used cars.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oE0bZhQjlop8dJuLvmxmblAfIUdNDH1YWE1quIaPjBOqWA8/

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Tue Aug 19 18:13:57 2008
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 20:13:57 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Paul Newman at Lime Rock
Message-ID: <ca2.38f9dbe9.35dcbbc5@aol.com>

"Race driver, actor,  humanitarian, family
man and  friend they did not come any  better."




Repeat that for me as well.-  Marion



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 18:35:07 2008
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 19:35:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Paul Newman at Lime Rock
References: <20080819.190739.6608.1.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <489950FAAB6C4B989CEFCCB67D6B276D@Lemonlaptop>

The guy is a rare combination of being extremely talented, successful, and 
grounded.

Everybody probably knows about his acting career, most on this list probably 
know about his racing  accomplishments (4 SCCA D production championships, 
2nd at Le Mans)  late in life (for a racing driver), in addition he staying 
married to his wife for 50 years and lastly he has done some great charity 
work as outlined below from this website: 
http://www.leninimports.com/paul_newman.html

"1982 saw him start up the Newman's Own brand, selling pasta sauces, 
microwaveable popcorn and the like. All profits were to go to charity, 
particularly the Hole In The Wall Camp (the Hole In The Wall Gang being 
Butch Cassidy's crew). This was a summer camp in Ashford, Connecticut, for 
kids with cancer, AIDS and other blood-related diseases. Julia Roberts would 
later join the board. In the autumns, inner-city kids would attend on the 
Discovery programme. Incredibly, Newman's Own would be an outrageous 
success, launching an organic line run by Paul's daughter and, by 2002, 
donating over $125 million to charity. Ever-humble, Newman joked that "The 
embarrassing thing is that my salad dressing is now out-grossing my films". 
When asked about his philanthropy, he simply stated "You can only put so 
much stuff in your closet". "

And the SOB got better looking as he got older.

Sets a fine example for all of us.

Greg Lemon 

From norman.hendry at shaw.ca  Tue Aug 19 18:36:51 2008
From: norman.hendry at shaw.ca (Norman)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 18:36:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  driving/fog lights
Message-ID: <002e01c9025c$d6d1cbd0$9ed39644@your4dacd0ea75>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights


Hello Al,

Not sure which formula you are using to calculate the current draw, however;
the correct formula is : W (Wattage) = V (Volts) x I (Amperage).

Assuming you have 55 watt headlights (if not just change the number in the
equation) and switch on both auxilliary lights at the same time and
transposing for I gives

I  = 48+48+55+55 / 13.6 which equals  15.15 Amps (206/13.6) which a generator
is capable of producing and well within the limits of an alternator.

Regards,

Norman
59 BN7

From al at bighealey.org  Tue Aug 19 18:46:49 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 20:46:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  driving/fog lights
In-Reply-To: <002e01c9025c$d6d1cbd0$9ed39644@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <000101c9025e$3c2181a0$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Thanks, Norm:

Since I have the alternator already installed, my only concern was around
the total draw on the stock fuse.  This is no problem, since when I
installed the alternator, I removed the stock voltage regulator, and in its
place installed an auxiliary fuse box.  I'll just use one of the circuits on
that for the driving lights.

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Norman
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 8:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: driving/fog lights

Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights


Hello Al,

Not sure which formula you are using to calculate the current draw, however;
the correct formula is : W (Wattage) = V (Volts) x I (Amperage).

Assuming you have 55 watt headlights (if not just change the number in the
equation) and switch on both auxilliary lights at the same time and
transposing for I gives

I  = 48+48+55+55 / 13.6 which equals  15.15 Amps (206/13.6) which a
generator
is capable of producing and well within the limits of an alternator.

Regards,

Norman
59 BN7

From edriver at sasktel.net  Tue Aug 19 19:33:14 2008
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 19:33:14 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Paul Newman at Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <c2c.404f9438.35dcab0a@aol.com>
References: <c2c.404f9438.35dcab0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48AB745A.5070300@sasktel.net>

Thanks Michael for posting this news item of VRG, it is truly
sad to hear but it is a reminder of the great role models that
exist in all societies and all who they touch.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> I read this in the VRG Newsletter--very sad:
>
> "Wednesday, August 13, 2008
> Lime  Rock Park was closed down for an hour and
> half today to honor Paul Newman. He  was attended
> by his family, close friends, Skip Barber, mechanics
> on his  race team, and those who happened to be at
> the track. PLN toured the track in  his Corvette race
> car with his Buick V8 powered Volvo station  wagon
> following. He had come to say goodbye. Diagnosed
> with terminal  cancer he is not expected to live beyond
> September. Race driver, actor,  humanitarian, family
> man and friend b they did not come any  better."
>
> Best--Michael

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Aug 19 21:49:40 2008
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:49:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100S Fuel Cap
Message-ID: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Can anyone tell me what fuel cap was fitted to the 100s ? From the photos in 
Bill Emerson's book it looks like a Flip top Aston. Is this correct ?

Thanks,
Jim 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 19 22:10:31 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 12:10:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100S Fuel Cap
In-Reply-To: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808192110k1ca9d1bcw3461cc148db4db3b@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

Yes it's an Aston cap and they are big.  You'll have to cut a hole in your
car to make them fit, it won't fit over the standard filler tube.

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=19&thepart=14243

Best,

Alan

On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>wrote:

> Can anyone tell me what fuel cap was fitted to the 100s ? From the photos
> in
> Bill Emerson's book it looks like a Flip top Aston. Is this correct ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 19 22:11:45 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 12:11:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100S Fuel Cap
In-Reply-To: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808192111k61271c42n9504f3406780f5f8@mail.gmail.com>

Here you can see how big the Aston Cap is.

http://www.cape-international.com/capesport_parts.php?thepart=10


Alan


On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>wrote:

> Can anyone tell me what fuel cap was fitted to the 100s ? From the photos
> in
> Bill Emerson's book it looks like a Flip top Aston. Is this correct ?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Aug 20 05:07:51 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 07:07:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100S Fuel Cap
In-Reply-To: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000301c90277$c6bdc8a0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <007b01c902b4$fd3b2390$f7b16ab0$@com>

Yes Jim it is actually an ENOTS cap. About 6" in diameter. I have a spare if
you are looking to buy one.
Michael Salter

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Lyons
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 11:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100S Fuel Cap

Can anyone tell me what fuel cap was fitted to the 100s ? From the photos in

Bill Emerson's book it looks like a Flip top Aston. Is this correct ?

Thanks,
Jim 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Aug 20 06:45:25 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 08:45:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <904600.82654.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <904600.82654.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48AC11E5.5090200@comcast.net>

Norman or anyone else,
I have heard that most modern alternators can put out more current than 
the wiring in an Austin-Healey (or most other old British cars) can 
handle.  If the battery is discharged the alternator will be supplying 
that current to charge the battery for some relatively long period of 
time.  Is this a concern?  Is there a certain output that Healey owners 
should not go above when selecting the alternator to convert to?
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin (electrically challenged)

Norman Nock wrote:
> Al fuller .. If you drive with your head lights on and both driving lights on your battery will go flat ,your engine will stop ,  you would have been   using more electricity than the generator could supply , if this happened in the middle of Nevada  at 2AM , nobody would stop to help you .. you should install an alternator to cover the extra load , or don't use both ...
>    See page 118 in my Tech Talk book   Norman Nock
>   
>
>
> --- On Mon, 8/18/08, Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org> wrote:
>
>   
>> From: Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving/fog lights
>> To: "'Dennis Gavin'" <djg at gavinassociates.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
>> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 4:11 PM
>> Dennis:
>>
>> I have the lights mounted on my bar and am going to wire
>> them up "soon".
>> Anyway, I called Moss to find out the draw on them to see
>> how I want to
>> proceed.
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 07:00:30 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 15:00:30 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <48AC11E5.5090200@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKZk8vBUjg1EqXNRqEmvy8QBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Charlie,

that's a true concern. As most (not to say all) alternators have a
considerably higher output than the original dynamo, you should have an
appropriate gauged cable between your alternator and the battery for these
high currents.

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany
http://brits-n-pieces.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Charlie Baldwin
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 2:45 PM
To: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator

Norman or anyone else,
I have heard that most modern alternators can put out more current than the
wiring in an Austin-Healey (or most other old British cars) can handle.  If
the battery is discharged the alternator will be supplying that current to
charge the battery for some relatively long period of time.  Is this a
concern?  Is there a certain output that Healey owners should not go above
when selecting the alternator to convert to?
Thanks.
Charlie Baldwin (electrically challenged)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Aug 20 07:39:08 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 06:39:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKZk8vBUjg1EqXNRqEmvy8QBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAKZk8vBUjg1EqXNRqEmvy8QBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <48AC1E7C.1040603@comcast.net>

Not unless the alternator is overcharging.  The current flow to the 
battery is determined by the voltage of the source and the internal 
resistance of the battery (i.e. E=I*R, or I=E/R).  In other words, a 
battery in a given state of charge will sink the same current from a 
generator producing a nominal charging voltage (e.g. 13.8V) as from an 
alternator producing the same voltage.   If the internal resistance of 
your battery is low enough--close to a dead short--a generator can 
produce enough current to fry the charging wire.   Remember also that 
the battery has to supply enough power to excite the field coils 
(generator) or armature (alternator) to provide current in the first 
place, so a battery near a dead short will a) not start the car in the 
first place and b) not supply enough juice to keep it running.  If you 
jump a car with a dead short battery from another car or battery, the 
500+ amps available will fry a pretty large cable (check how hot the 
cable to the starter gets after only a few seconds of fruitless cranking).

An alternator or generator isn't meant to be a current-limiting device 
(unless it's Lucas ;).  That is accomplished by the total load of all 
your electrical devices or, in a pinch, a fuse, fusible link or circuit 
breaker.


bs


Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) wrote:
> Charlie,
>
> that's a true concern. As most (not to say all) alternators have a
> considerably higher output than the original dynamo, you should have an
> appropriate gauged cable between your alternator and the battery for these
> high currents.
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany
> http://brits-n-pieces.com
>
>
> Norman or anyone else,
> I have heard that most modern alternators can put out more current than the
> wiring in an Austin-Healey (or most other old British cars) can handle.  If
> the battery is discharged the alternator will be supplying that current to
> charge the battery for some relatively long period of time.  Is this a
> concern?  Is there a certain output that Healey owners should not go above
> when selecting the alternator to convert to?
> Thanks.
> Charlie Baldwin (electrically challenged)
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 08:12:37 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:12:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <48AC1E7C.1040603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJ+uYV6+9btDnhvrd40O5FgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Bob, your equation is completely right, but additionally the current flow is
limited by the capability of the source. Dynamos built into AHs (Lucas C45
and C42) were capable of an output of max. about 20-22 amps (even if the
resistance would be 0 ohm) and the related cables were adjusted to that.
Modern replacement alternators can do at least double the output. Guess what
can happen when a modern alternator starts charging a flat battery and the
cables have not been exchanged.

Right, an alternator isn't meant to be a current-limiting device, but its
capabilities are limited. Otherwise I wouldn't see a reason for alternators
with different amps.

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

Bob Spidell wrote:
Not unless the alternator is overcharging.  The current flow to the battery
is determined by the voltage of the source and the internal resistance of
the battery (i.e. E=I*R, or I=E/R).  In other words, a battery in a given
state of charge will sink the same current from a generator producing a
nominal charging voltage (e.g. 13.8V) as from an 
alternator producing the same voltage.   If the internal resistance of 
your battery is low enough--close to a dead short--a generator can 
produce enough current to fry the charging wire.   Remember also that 
the battery has to supply enough power to excite the field coils
(generator) or armature (alternator) to provide current in the first place,
so a battery near a dead short will a) not start the car in the first place
and b) not supply enough juice to keep it running.  If you jump a car with a
dead short battery from another car or battery, the 
500+ amps available will fry a pretty large cable (check how hot the
cable to the starter gets after only a few seconds of fruitless cranking).

An alternator or generator isn't meant to be a current-limiting device 
(unless it's Lucas ;).  That is accomplished by the total load of all 
your electrical devices or, in a pinch, a fuse, fusible link or circuit 
breaker.


bs

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 20 08:23:53 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:23:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Car wire sets - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808150410q77a987b4r233079903893f534@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0808150410q77a987b4r233079903893f534@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W3563DE24B8AD3FE395505DD5680@phx.gbl>

Alan
Sorry for the late reply, been away.
Autosparks supply to most of the Healey specialists and their loom is a nice
looking loom that is the same except for the bulb holders being a more modern
push in fitting, this I believe is the same problem as British wiring's? Upto
you if you want to resolder?
I have just installed mine into my bj8 and before fitting laid both out on the
lawn to compare and use as a reference for preinstalling clips.
The strange thing is it is cheaper to buy from a Healey specialist such as
Ahead4healeys #150 + vat as opposed to #165 + vat, both manufactured by
Autosparks. I believe this is because they specially make 10+ at a time for
the specialists who pass on the discount, whilst austosparks only carry one at
a time.
The only benefit buying direct is that you can get the loom specially modded
for alternator etc if you get direct from ASparks.
cheers Andy
ps dont forget you get all the cables except for the overdrive, and
trafficator cables, with the main loom
www.austin-healey3000.com
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Wed Aug 20 08:36:50 2008
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 10:36:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday SPECIAL FUNNIES
Message-ID: <d5b.2b4a3e19.35dd8602@aol.com>

(I just could  not wait until Friday for this one.)
 
A salesman was  traveling through the Kentucky country side, selling insect 
repellent. He came to  a farmhouse and tried his pitch on the farmer. 


'Sir, my bug spray is so good  you will never be bitten again. I guarantee 
it.'  


The farmer  was dubious. 'Young man, I'll make you a proposition. I'll tie 
you out in my  cornfield buck nekkid, covered with that bug spray. If there is 
not a single  bite on you come morning,  I'll buy a whole case from you, and 
get everyone  in the county to buy a case we will make you rich.  


The salesman  was delighted. They went to the field and he stripped. The 
farmer sprayed him  thoroughly with the bug spray and tied him to a stake. Back to 
the house went  the farmer. 




The next morning, the farmer and  his family trooped out to the cornfield. 
Sure enough, the salesman was there,  hanging in his bonds, not a single bite on 
him. Yet he was a total wreck!   Pale, ghastly, haggard, and drawn, but not 
one bite on him. The farmer was  perplexed.
'Son,' he said, 'Now, you don't have a bite on you but you look  like hell!  
What the devil happened?' 


The salesman looked up through bloodshot eyes and croaked, 'Doesn't that  
calf have a mother ?' 
 







**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 20 09:12:16 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (rwil at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 15:12:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
Message-ID: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Has anyone who has installed an alternator ever had a problem from overloading the Healey electrics?  

I never had a problem with a subbed Delco. If the car is going to use just the power it was designed to consume there isn't going to be a problem, for sure. If the car is going to be running powerful and inefficient driving lights or a 500 watt sound system then some thought to how the power will get to them will be needed as well. But the supply to the rest of the car can stay the same.  I'd suggest leaving your original wiring harnesses alone and if you need a 90 amp alternator make sure that it has adequate wiring to solenoid and the new stuff. If you aren't going to upsize the battery the original cable will supply all the charging current that the battery can take 

-Roland 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Aug 20 10:19:04 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:19:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJ+uYV6+9btDnhvrd40O5FgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <48AC1E7C.1040603@comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJ+uYV6+9btDnhvrd40O5FgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>

I wonder if we are missing a point here. On a modern car the output from 
the alternator not only charges the battery when this is necessary but 
also drives all sorts of other electric equipment such as power 
steering, heated seats, fast warm up heater, entertainment units etc.

As you say a C45 or C42 has limited output but if an alternator is 
substituted and extra lights are fitted it will be able to supply the 
light AND charge the battery at a good rate if it is low. In this case a 
thicker wire from the alternator is advisable. A 50 amp alternator and a 
50 amp wire should be adequate for one of our cars because it would feed 
all the equipment  and charge the battery at the maximum permissible 
rate if this were in a low state,

Regards

>Bob, your equation is completely right, but additionally the current flow is
>limited by the capability of the source. Dynamos built into AHs (Lucas C45
>and C42) were capable of an output of max. about 20-22 amps (even if the
>resistance would be 0 ohm) and the related cables were adjusted to that.
>Modern replacement alternators can do at least double the output. Guess what
>can happen when a modern alternator starts charging a flat battery and the
>cables have not been exchanged.
>
>Right, an alternator isn't meant to be a current-limiting device, but its
>capabilities are limited. Otherwise I wouldn't see a reason for alternators
>with different amps.
>
>Best regards
>
>Eric
>Heinsberg/Germany
>
-- 
John Harper

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 10:44:01 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 18:44:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
tongue.

All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by the
alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that this
is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.

As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and battery
(after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
is what I wanted to say.

Best regards

Eric
 

I wonder if we are missing a point here. On a modern car the output from the
alternator not only charges the battery when this is necessary but also
drives all sorts of other electric equipment such as power steering, heated
seats, fast warm up heater, entertainment units etc.

As you say a C45 or C42 has limited output but if an alternator is
substituted and extra lights are fitted it will be able to supply the light
AND charge the battery at a good rate if it is low. In this case a thicker
wire from the alternator is advisable. A 50 amp alternator and a 50 amp wire
should be adequate for one of our cars because it would feed all the
equipment  and charge the battery at the maximum permissible rate if this
were in a low state,

Regards

--
John Harper

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 11:16:44 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 19:16:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Roland, you've been lucky enough not to get in trouble with the original
sized cable. But I would surely suggest all to upgrade their cable between
alternator and battery if you have converted your car's charging system to
an alternator.

Why do you suggest upgrading to adequate wiring only to the solenoid? What
do you mean how does the current get from there to the battery?

Theoretically (and nearly practically) the size of the battery is no factor
for the charging current. Picture the whole electrical system as a watering
system. The battery is the reservoir, the consumers are little rivers taking
water away from the reservoir, the alternator is a big river flowing water
into the reservoir. It doesn't matter what capacity this water reservoir has
for the water masses to flow towards the reservoir. The only thing that
matters is how much water flows away through the little rivers. The big
river has to flow the same amount of water into the reservoir as water flows
away to keep the level. In case the reservoir (battery) is (nearly) empty,
you have another situation. The big river tries to fill the reservoir again
with huge masses of water in short time (high current). The only difference
between a big and a small reservoir is the time needed to be filled.

Best regards

Eric


Has anyone who has installed an alternator ever had a problem from
overloading the Healey electrics?  

I never had a problem with a subbed Delco. If the car is going to use just
the power it was designed to consume there isn't going to be a problem, for
sure. If the car is going to be running powerful and inefficient driving
lights or a 500 watt sound system then some thought to how the power will
get to them will be needed as well. But the supply to the rest of the car
can stay the same.  I'd suggest leaving your original wiring harnesses alone
and if you need a 90 amp alternator make sure that it has adequate wiring to
solenoid and the new stuff. If you aren't going to upsize the battery the
original cable will supply all the charging current that the battery can
take 

-Roland

From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 20 11:23:52 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:23:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W20123D53DB9DD4987B7DC5D5680@phx.gbl>

Guys
I agree with the current carrying capacity of the cables, and typically a
battery cable is rated for 200 amps so not a problem, the loom dynamo cable is
only rated at 25 amps (being a typical 3mm square cable) thats why the
alternator conversion is uprated to around the 60 amps (8.5mm square), you can
also use 4.5mm for 35A, 6.0mm for 42A. All because the regulator is removed.
cheers Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Aug 20 11:30:00 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 10:30:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808201030r4617fae2j81d54cb09669bdca@mail.gmail.com>

On any car, the battery's only job is to
A) start the car
B) provide an electrical reserve in the case of a of a generator
(alternator) failure.
All cars run off the the electricity generated by the generator/alternator.
Modern cars have much higher demands on the electrical systems than our old
British cars.  Modern cars can run up to 200 Amp capacity for their
alternators.  They rarely if ever use that amount of generating power, but
it is there if needed.
Hope this helps clear up the confusion.
Rick

On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) <
lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

> John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
> tongue.
>
> All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
> consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by
> the
> alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
> battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that
> this
> is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.
>
> As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and
> battery
> (after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
> fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
> is what I wanted to say.
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
>
>
> I wonder if we are missing a point here. On a modern car the output from
> the
> alternator not only charges the battery when this is necessary but also
> drives all sorts of other electric equipment such as power steering, heated
> seats, fast warm up heater, entertainment units etc.
>
> As you say a C45 or C42 has limited output but if an alternator is
> substituted and extra lights are fitted it will be able to supply the light
> AND charge the battery at a good rate if it is low. In this case a thicker
> wire from the alternator is advisable. A 50 amp alternator and a 50 amp
> wire
> should be adequate for one of our cars because it would feed all the
> equipment  and charge the battery at the maximum permissible rate if this
> were in a low state,
>
> Regards
>
> --
> John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Aug 20 12:02:46 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:02:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <004c01c902ee$f4249540$dc6dbfc0$@com>

"Why do you suggest upgrading to adequate wiring only to the solenoid? What
do you mean how does the current get from there to the battery?"
Because from the solenoid to the battery the power passes through a battery
cable.
Michael Salter 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:17 PM
To: rwil at sbcglobal.net; 'Charlie Baldwin'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator

Roland, you've been lucky enough not to get in trouble with the original
sized cable. But I would surely suggest all to upgrade their cable between
alternator and battery if you have converted your car's charging system to
an alternator.

Why do you suggest upgrading to adequate wiring only to the solenoid? What
do you mean how does the current get from there to the battery?

Theoretically (and nearly practically) the size of the battery is no factor
for the charging current. Picture the whole electrical system as a watering
system. The battery is the reservoir, the consumers are little rivers taking
water away from the reservoir, the alternator is a big river flowing water
into the reservoir. It doesn't matter what capacity this water reservoir has
for the water masses to flow towards the reservoir. The only thing that
matters is how much water flows away through the little rivers. The big
river has to flow the same amount of water into the reservoir as water flows
away to keep the level. In case the reservoir (battery) is (nearly) empty,
you have another situation. The big river tries to fill the reservoir again
with huge masses of water in short time (high current). The only difference
between a big and a small reservoir is the time needed to be filled.

Best regards

Eric

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 12:06:22 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:06:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <004c01c902ee$f4249540$dc6dbfc0$@com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAEsShXbkcR1Pl9JCh82PlIUBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Michael, that's true. I didn't think about that. The cable from the solenoid
to the battery is thick enough in any case.

Best regards

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter at precisionsportscar.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 8:03 PM
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com; rwil at sbcglobal.net; 'Charlie Baldwin'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator

"Why do you suggest upgrading to adequate wiring only to the solenoid? What
do you mean how does the current get from there to the battery?"
Because from the solenoid to the battery the power passes through a battery
cable.
Michael Salter

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Aug 20 12:14:58 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:14:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>

Eric,

I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the alternator does supply the system.

My assumptions were that with an alternator, stock wiring and battery, new dedicated wiring for extra accessories ( all in good working order) the stock wiring would handle reasonable extra current in the charging system.

I did not account for the excptional case where faults prexist (battery short) or ridiculous loads (teenage sized triple audio amps and subwoofers) <grin> are introduced.

I am running a delco and extra lights and CB (each with aftermarket new decicated wiring) and all is good.  I do need to add a fuse to the fragile and well know red read lights wire.  That goes for generator or alternator tho.

Cheers!
---- "Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote: 
> John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
> tongue.
> 
> All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
> consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by the
> alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
> battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that this
> is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.
> 
> As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and battery
> (after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
> fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
> is what I wanted to say.
> 
> Best regards
> 
> Eric
>  
> 
> I wonder if we are missing a point here. On a modern car the output from the
> alternator not only charges the battery when this is necessary but also
> drives all sorts of other electric equipment such as power steering, heated
> seats, fast warm up heater, entertainment units etc.
> 
> As you say a C45 or C42 has limited output but if an alternator is
> substituted and extra lights are fitted it will be able to supply the light
> AND charge the battery at a good rate if it is low. In this case a thicker
> wire from the alternator is advisable. A 50 amp alternator and a 50 amp wire
> should be adequate for one of our cars because it would feed all the
> equipment  and charge the battery at the maximum permissible rate if this
> were in a low state,
> 
> Regards
> 
> --
> John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Aug 20 12:17:46 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:17:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808201030r4617fae2j81d54cb09669bdca@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080820141746.NITXF.505640.root@mp17>

Thanks Richard

---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote: 
> On any car, the battery's only job is to
> A) start the car
> B) provide an electrical reserve in the case of a of a generator
> (alternator) failure.
> All cars run off the the electricity generated by the generator/alternator.
> Modern cars have much higher demands on the electrical systems than our old
> British cars.  Modern cars can run up to 200 Amp capacity for their
> alternators.  They rarely if ever use that amount of generating power, but
> it is there if needed.
> Hope this helps clear up the confusion.
> Rick
> 
> On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) <
> lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:
> 
> > John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
> > tongue.
> >
> > All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
> > consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by
> > the
> > alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
> > battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that
> > this
> > is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.
> >
> > As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and
> > battery
> > (after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
> > fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
> > is what I wanted to say.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Eric
> >
> >
> > I wonder if we are missing a point here. On a modern car the output from
> > the
> > alternator not only charges the battery when this is necessary but also
> > drives all sorts of other electric equipment such as power steering, heated
> > seats, fast warm up heater, entertainment units etc.
> >
> > As you say a C45 or C42 has limited output but if an alternator is
> > substituted and extra lights are fitted it will be able to supply the light
> > AND charge the battery at a good rate if it is low. In this case a thicker
> > wire from the alternator is advisable. A 50 amp alternator and a 50 amp
> > wire
> > should be adequate for one of our cars because it would feed all the
> > equipment  and charge the battery at the maximum permissible rate if this
> > were in a low state,
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 12:28:15 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:28:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAALT9pV5OYMNJrUzek9E1R08BAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Ok, I got a couple of mails telling me that the alternator delivers the
power to keep the ignition and the other consumers running. My fault, sorry!

But, I stick telling you to use a thicker cable between alternator and
solenoid after having the alternator uprated, even if you don't account for
the below mentioned exceptional cases. In case your battery has drained
(which is no exceptional case with Lucas electrics  ;-)  ) the alternator
delivers too much current for the 25 amps rated cable.

Best regards

Eric


Eric,

I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's
field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the
alternator does supply the system.

My assumptions were that with an alternator, stock wiring and battery, new
dedicated wiring for extra accessories ( all in good working order) the
stock wiring would handle reasonable extra current in the charging system.

I did not account for the excptional case where faults prexist (battery
short) or ridiculous loads (teenage sized triple audio amps and subwoofers)
<grin> are introduced.

I am running a delco and extra lights and CB (each with aftermarket new
decicated wiring) and all is good.  I do need to add a fuse to the fragile
and well know red read lights wire.  That goes for generator or alternator
tho.

Cheers!

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Aug 20 13:00:18 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:00:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <4B7G4xPCnGrIFwEP@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Eric

When a generator (dynamo) is connected to the battery because the speed 
is sufficient to close the cut out in the control box, or an alternator 
is running at sufficient speed, this source of power is directly 
connected to the battery and also to any load that is switched on. 
Therefore one has a three way connection where, depending on whether the 
load is greater or less than the generator or alternator output, current 
will flow out or into the battery. Some owner fit an ammeter to watch 
this. Part or all of the load can be taken from the generator or 
alternator. In fact as somebody said recently it is possible to run a 
car fitted with a generator with the battery disconnected so long as the 
engine revs are kept high enough. Obviously once the revs drop there 
will be insufficient power to keep the ignition alive and you will not 
be able to restart without reconnecting the battery..

The reason for this long explanation is to let you know that your 
statement that "All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the 
battery" is not entirely true. However 'connected' to the battery is a 
valid statement

What I was trying to say in my previous email is that a heavier cable 
should be fitted to match the output of the alternator. This is because 
an alternator is capable of charging the battery at a suitably high 
current AND run all the lights and accessories.

Best regards
>
>John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
>tongue.
>
>All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
>consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by the
>alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
>battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that this
>is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.
>
>As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and battery
>(after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
>fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
>is what I wanted to say.
>
>Best regards

-- 
John Harper

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Aug 20 13:22:57 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 12:22:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808201222v1c1986dbi3637652c2e04c7dc@mail.gmail.com>

>>I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's
field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the
alternator does supply the system.

Write this down.  DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY MODERN ALTERNATOR
EQUIPPED CAR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. EVER.
The battery act like a shock absorber in the electrical system.  If you pull
a battery cable the voltage can spike upward to 80 or 90 volts.  This spike
might just kill one or more of the electronic control units.
Pulling a battery cable can be a very easy way to find out just how
expensive all those electronic control units are.

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Aug 20 13:56:02 2008
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 21:56:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808201222v1c1986dbi3637652c2e04c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>
	<a3b984e10808201222v1c1986dbi3637652c2e04c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175004975748@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Hello Richard,
you are fully right. When disconnecting the battery on an alternator or
generator equipped car the voltage can spike up to double or third or even
more of the 13 Volts, as the voltage regulator would not work anymore without
the battery as a reference. I would suggest only those who can really add good
knowledge should give advice what to do and the others stay silent and listen
to those who know what they are talking about.
To be on the save side the "feeding wire" from the alternator to the battery
should be checked and in case enlarged or a second wire added in parallel. The
wire to the starter solenoid was also mentioned. I do not understand why the
wire to the starter solenoid is of any importance in this case.
I am just wondering, and I am an electronic engineer.

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
von Richard Ewald
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. August 2008 21:23
An: bighealey at charter.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator

>>I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor
>>man's
field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the
alternator does supply the system.

Write this down.  DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY MODERN ALTERNATOR
EQUIPPED CAR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. EVER.
The battery act like a shock absorber in the electrical system.  If you pull a
battery cable the voltage can spike upward to 80 or 90 volts.  This spike
might just kill one or more of the electronic control units.
Pulling a battery cable can be a very easy way to find out just how expensive
all those electronic control units are.
__

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 20 14:48:20 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 22:48:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175004975748@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAFY9yQGyEJNLpO0kekY8nkgBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Josef,

the wire between the alternator and the starter solenoid was mentioned,
because this one is the connection between the alternator and the cable to
the battery. I think the 3-way connection mentioned by John Harper "meets"
at this point.

Regarding your suggestion I would suggest you think about it once more.

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 9:56 PM
To: richard.ewald at gmail.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator

Hello Richard,
you are fully right. When disconnecting the battery on an alternator or
generator equipped car the voltage can spike up to double or third or even
more of the 13 Volts, as the voltage regulator would not work anymore
without the battery as a reference. I would suggest only those who can
really add good knowledge should give advice what to do and the others stay
silent and listen to those who know what they are talking about.
To be on the save side the "feeding wire" from the alternator to the battery
should be checked and in case enlarged or a second wire added in parallel.
The wire to the starter solenoid was also mentioned. I do not understand why
the wire to the starter solenoid is of any importance in this case.
I am just wondering, and I am an electronic engineer.

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter/Germany

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Wed Aug 20 14:53:54 2008
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 13:53:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <4B7G4xPCnGrIFwEP@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<4B7G4xPCnGrIFwEP@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <48AC8462.4060103@pacbell.net>

Listers,

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm about to install an 
alternator on my Healey with a new albeit stock wiring loom.  I hadn't 
considered increasing the size of the cable.

I do appreciate the knowledge I have gained, also being electrically 
challenged.  However, I haven't seen an answer to Roland's original 
question:  "Has anyone who has installed an alternator ever had a 
problem from overloading the Healey electrics?"  Has anyone?  Or have 
all those running alternators that I've seen either upgraded the wiring 
or been as lucky as Roland?  I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'd just 
like to know before putting my loom at risk.

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1M

PS:  I'm leaving for Vegas for a couple of days <VBG> and won't be able 
respond immediately.


John Harper wrote:
> Eric
>
> When a generator (dynamo) is connected to the battery because the speed 
> is sufficient to close the cut out in the control box, or an alternator 
> is running at sufficient speed, this source of power is directly 
> connected to the battery and also to any load that is switched on. 
> Therefore one has a three way connection where, depending on whether the 
> load is greater or less than the generator or alternator output, current 
> will flow out or into the battery. Some owner fit an ammeter to watch 
> this. Part or all of the load can be taken from the generator or 
> alternator. In fact as somebody said recently it is possible to run a 
> car fitted with a generator with the battery disconnected so long as the 
> engine revs are kept high enough. Obviously once the revs drop there 
> will be insufficient power to keep the ignition alive and you will not 
> be able to restart without reconnecting the battery..
>
> The reason for this long explanation is to let you know that your 
> statement that "All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the 
> battery" is not entirely true. However 'connected' to the battery is a 
> valid statement
>
> What I was trying to say in my previous email is that a heavier cable 
> should be fitted to match the output of the alternator. This is because 
> an alternator is capable of charging the battery at a suitably high 
> current AND run all the lights and accessories.
>
> Best regards
>   
>> John, I don't know what you mean. Maybe because English is not my native
>> tongue.
>>
>> All electrical consumers in a car are fed by the battery. I've seen no
>> consumer fed by the alternator directly. Of course the battery is fed by the
>> alternator, so the alternator feeds all consumers indirectly via the
>> battery. I'm not sure about modern cars, but I know for quite sure that this
>> is the way the electrical charging system works in our AHs.
>>
>> As you say, if you replace the original cable between alternator and battery
>> (after upgrading to a 50 amp alternator) with a 50 amp cable, everything is
>> fine. Maybe this is what you said and I didn't get it right. At least this
>> is what I wanted to say.
>>
>> Best regards

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 20 15:35:33 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:35:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] alternator - General Comments...
Message-ID: <963336.76221.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Resend - kbytes problems again ....

--- On Wed, 8/20/08, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] alternator - General Comments...
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 2:21 PM
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have been interested in the thread on gen/alt/pwr/cables,
> et al, and have to say that the recent comment here about
> only providing factual advice on what you really understand
> is a valid comment.
>
> I would add that auto electrical systems are analog
> systems, the operation of which is inheritantly difficult to
> appreciate and have many complex technical realities that
> are hidden below the surface - they are not just 0 and 12
> volt termianals with some wires between.  Their behaviour is
> very complex - voltage spikes, ringing, surges, even on the
> older cars.  As several have said, modern auto systems are
> even more complex with the added danger of digital
> microprocessor ICs that will not tolerate voltage spikes,
> require resets et al.
>
> If anyone has a link to 'auto electrics 101' I am
> sure the list would appreciate it - from the recent email
> traffic there is clearly a lot of mis-understanding about
> how things really work - even simple things.
>
> Full disclosure - I am a physicist, but not an auto
> electrics expert.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>    
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
> <lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:
>
> > From: Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)
> <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
> > To: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com, Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 1:48 PM
> > Josef,
> >
> > the wire between the alternator and the starter
> solenoid
> > was mentioned,
> > because this one is the connection between the
> alternator
> > and the cable to
> > the battery. I think the 3-way connection mentioned by
> John
> > Harper "meets"
> > at this point.
> >
> > Regarding your suggestion I would suggest you think
> about
> > it once more.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Eric
> > Heinsberg/Germany

From rusd at sitestar.net  Wed Aug 20 16:34:04 2008
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 16:34:04 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <48AC8462.4060103@pacbell.net>
References: <4j1mQSN4PErIFwmp@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<4B7G4xPCnGrIFwEP@jharper.demon.co.uk> <48AC8462.4060103@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <48AC9BDC.9060205@sitestar.net>

Hi Gents,

when I replaced my BN2 wiring harness with new, & also replaced the 
generator with an alternator, I specified that the yellow wire from 
alternator to third solenoid terminal and the brown supply wire from 
this third terminal to the main electrics be replaced with heavier gage 
wires. The same thing could be accomplished by doubling the two existing 
yellow & brown wires.

Since any additional alternator output has to go to either the battery, 
already a heavy gage wire,  or to engine accessories/lighting, via this 
third solenoid terminal, all bases are covered.

In cases where the extra alternator output may be needed, the original 
small gage wires would be severely taxed to do the needed job.

Regards,
Dave Russell

Mr. Bill wrote:

>Listers,
>
>I've been following this thread with interest as I'm about to install an 
>alternator on my Healey with a new albeit stock wiring loom.  I hadn't 
>considered increasing the size of the cable.
>
>I do appreciate the knowledge I have gained, also being electrically 
>challenged.  However, I haven't seen an answer to Roland's original 
>question:  "Has anyone who has installed an alternator ever had a 
>problem from overloading the Healey electrics?"  Has anyone?  Or have 
>all those running alternators that I've seen either upgraded the wiring 
>or been as lucky as Roland?  I'm not trying to be a smart ass, I'd just 
>like to know before putting my loom at risk.
>
>Bill Barnett
>'53 BN1M
>
>PS:  I'm leaving for Vegas for a couple of days <VBG> and won't be able 
>respond immediately.

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Wed Aug 20 19:03:44 2008
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:03:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 door panel orientation???????
Message-ID: <000001c90329$c32fc500$498f4f00$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

I'm in the process of installing my inner door panels on my 63 BJ7.  I got
all of my interior trim and carpet from Heritage but my leather seats are
from AH Spares.  Anyway, how do I orient the stitching on the inner vinyl
that goes over the aluminum panels?  Meaning vertically!  How far is the
stitching from the bottom or top of the outer vinyl piece?  Perhaps better
explained, where does the stitching on the inner piece (that goes over the
aluminum) sit in relation to the outer piece, which I some sort of trapezoid
shaped vinyl piece over 3/16 plywood?  Also, how far does the vinyl wrap
around the behind of the aluminum piece or does it just cut flush since it
shouldn't be visible anyway?  I'll bet that Rich knows.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Randy

Healey-Archaeologist

 

63 AH  BJ7

66 Cobra replica

06 Mini Cooper S

Looking at a 66 Sunbeam Tiger

 

Healeyarchaeology.blogspot.com

From sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au  Wed Aug 20 19:18:42 2008
From: sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au (sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 11:18:42 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Generators
Message-ID: <20080821111842.57863hbgo8ctm8oi@webmail.hotkey.net.au>

Dont underestimate the uncontrolled output capacity of our generarors. The max. output as controlled by the voltage regulator is one figure. Uncontrolled is a different figure.I have had a generator shed all the solder and unwrap the wires from the communtator from excess heat/voltage when the control system failed and presumeably I had a dead short to earth. The generator was scrap. Also remember the voltage regulator does two things, it limits max. output of the generator and it then switches the electrical volts/amps to either the battery until it is 'full' or into the cars units demanding powere if the battery capacity is insufficient. The battery is an accumulator of power as well as a source of power. 

Joe

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Aug 20 19:36:00 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:36:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Generators
In-Reply-To: <20080821111842.57863hbgo8ctm8oi@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
References: <20080821111842.57863hbgo8ctm8oi@webmail.hotkey.net.au>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808201836r73bf64fayc81837d21a33a82f@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, and don't forget that the wires between the Generator and the Voltage
Regulator can carry some crazy loads - enough to fry the contacts inside my
RB350 on more than one occasion.

The wires coming out of an Alternator will have already passed though its
internal voltage regulator, so it will be much more steady load on this
wire.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 9:18 AM, <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au> wrote:

> Dont underestimate the uncontrolled output capacity of our generarors. The
> max. output as controlled by the voltage regulator is one figure.
> Uncontrolled is a different figure.I have had a generator shed all the
> solder and unwrap the wires from the communtator from excess heat/voltage
> when the control system failed and presumeably I had a dead short to earth.
> The generator was scrap. Also remember the voltage regulator does two
> things, it limits max. output of the generator and it then switches the
> electrical volts/amps to either the battery until it is 'full' or into the
> cars units demanding powere if the battery capacity is insufficient. The
> battery is an accumulator of power as well as a source of power.
>
> Joe

From jsoderling at astound.net  Wed Aug 20 19:51:45 2008
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 18:51:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Wheels & Tires: 32038's rubber meets the road...
References: <798012.35569.qm@web37905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01bc01c90330$77ba9580$6501a8c0@Soderling>

Robert,
When you say 185x15, are these 185/70R15 tires or 185/80R15 tires?  185x15 
is not a regular tire size code.  Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Blair" <rnbmail at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: "Paul Schwartz" <lucashly at comcast.net>; "Tom Collins" 
<collinsclassics at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:28 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Wheels & Tires: 32038's rubber meets the road...


> Hi Listers,
>
> Last week was the annual auto extraviganza here in the Monterey area.  As
> always a blast and not to be missed .....
>
> 32038 was ready enough to drive - interior not finished, no soft top but 
> has a
> tonneau, varoius smaller things to do.  But, has oil pressure, gears, 
> lights,
> seats, even the bla bla new wheels and tires.
>
> Which leads me to the point - the decision to go with 15x5 daytons and 
> 185x15
> vreds was just fine - right diameter, fills wheel arch, good visuals, and 
> just
> looks so much better than the 15x4 1/2 with 165x15 from 10 feet.  For 
> those
> interested enough to see the visuals pls email requesting jpgs to
> rnb at ix.netcom.com - now available.  Sorry to those that had asked - pls 
> email
> again.  So far so good......
>
> I had previously written Part I and Part II on this resto which has been
> published in Healey Mag.  I will do a final Part III shortly.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow/Dark Red BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Aug 20 21:59:44 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 23:59:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 door panel orientation???????
References: <000001c90329$c32fc500$498f4f00$@com>
Message-ID: <016c01c90342$59343b90$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Hi Randy,

I rise like a trout to the bait. <grin>

I'm afraid I don't have dimensions but I do have a pretty good picture of 
what it should look like. In addition the 3  Bj7's I've trimmed over the 
years had definite markings on the aluminum where the padded pleats had run, 
certainly enough to be able to position the new liners. As you can see in 
the pics. the stitching pretty much parallels the top and bottom of the door 
panel. Notice also the relation of the stitching to the positions of the 
inner door handle release and the window winder handle.
That inner vinyl will wrap nicely around all the edges of the aluminum and 
onto the back side by 3/4" or so.

Hope this helps,
Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 9:03 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 door panel orientation???????


> Fellow Healeyoids,
>
> I'm in the process of installing my inner door panels on my 63 BJ7.  I got
> all of my interior trim and carpet from Heritage but my leather seats are
> from AH Spares.  Anyway, how do I orient the stitching on the inner vinyl
> that goes over the aluminum panels?  Meaning vertically!  How far is the
> stitching from the bottom or top of the outer vinyl piece?  Perhaps better
> explained, where does the stitching on the inner piece (that goes over the
> aluminum) sit in relation to the outer piece, which I some sort of 
> trapezoid
> shaped vinyl piece over 3/16 plywood?  Also, how far does the vinyl wrap
> around the behind of the aluminum piece or does it just cut flush since it
> shouldn't be visible anyway?  I'll bet that Rich knows.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
>
> Randy
>
> Healey-Archaeologist

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Healey 006.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Healey 002.jpg]

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Thu Aug 21 01:54:58 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:54:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808201222v1c1986dbi3637652c2e04c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAHTqUH1IBgtKqSBjkLwHOpIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<20080820141458.EBL1Z.505544.root@mp17>
	<a3b984e10808201222v1c1986dbi3637652c2e04c7dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2VfF9gCS9RrIFw1R@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Richard

I totally agree and this is why I said you can do this with a generator.
NEVER with an alternator.

regards

>>>I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's
>field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the
alternator
>does supply the system.
>
>Write this down.  DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY
>MODERN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
>EVER.
>The battery act like a shock absorber in the electrical system.  If you pull
a
>battery cable the voltage can spike upward to 80 or 90 volts.  This spike
might
>just kill one or more of the electronic control units.
>Pulling a battery cable can be a very easy way to find out just how
expensive
>all those electronic control units are.

--
John Harper

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Thu Aug 21 02:14:06 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:14:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] alternator
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <jXIgN9EOPSrIFwHc@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Eric

May I pick up on a point you made recently

>
>Theoretically (and nearly practically) the size of the battery is no factor
>for the charging current.

I submit that the charging current is almost entirely dependant on the 
battery size. Assuming that we are considering a constant voltage 
charging system then the charging current is dependant on voltage 
difference and the battery internal resistance. For lead acid batteries 
the voltage difference will be the same for all battery sizes for a 
given level of charge.

However the internal resistance will be inversely proportional to the 
plate area. Plate area is another way of saying size.

Therefore charging current is a factor of battery size.

Regards
-- 
John Harper

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 21 05:34:43 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 07:34:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] alternator
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
	<jXIgN9EOPSrIFwHc@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <001e01c90381$e907b230$4036e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Thought I would jump  in with my most recent experience with an alternator 
set up.

I just installed a Moss Lucas alternator kit on my MGA.    The "A" uses the 
exact same voltage
regulator that our Healeys do and the wire size appears to be the same size 
at the
D and F terminals.

The original D and F wires are the only wires used for the alt. hook up with 
NO larger B+ cable
used at all.    Some of the wires are moved around at the old voltage reg. 
because of the internal
reg.  in the new alternator.



Just returned from a round trip to PA.  and IN.  with no obvious problems.

Besides the Healey being a 6 cyl. and the "A" is a 4 cyl.  the cars systems 
are very similar.

I find it very interesting that the original wire gauges are still used ( 2 
wires)  with no
additional thicker cable as mentioned in previous  emails.

Any comments?

Mark



> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Aug 21 06:11:47 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:11:47 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
Message-ID: <cf4.36e632b5.35deb583@aol.com>

In fact you can safely disconnect the battery on a car equipped with an  
alternator while the engine is running if done via a switch which  has a circuit 
that grounds the alternator output through a resistor. (See:   
_http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1464_ 
(http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1464) )   The switch has three circuits which 
make/break the battery  connection, the coil feed and an alternator ground.  I 
have one  on my alternator-equipped Elva and when going through pre-race tech 
inspection I  am asked to bring the car up to revs and then flip the switch.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 8/21/2008 4:16:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ah at jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
 
Richard
I totally agree and this is why I said you can do this with  a generator.
NEVER with an alternator.

regards

>>>I  can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor  man's
>field test for determining if the alternator is charging.   So yes the
alternator
>does supply the system.
>
>Write  this down.  DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY
>MODERN ALTERNATOR  EQUIPPED CAR WITH THE ENGINE  RUNNING.
>EVER.





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Aug 21 06:58:33 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 05:58:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <cf4.36e632b5.35deb583@aol.com>
References: <cf4.36e632b5.35deb583@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808210558ief0ee2mb968468e7fb4d1fa@mail.gmail.com>

A couple of things I would note:
1. Modern street cars don't come with a battery master switch
2. I highly doubt your Elva has 20+ computers running on a high speed data
network to make the car run.  Modern street cars do.
3. Look again at what I quoted from BigHealey >>I can disconnect my battery
and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's field test for determining if
the alternator is charging.  So yes the alternator does supply the
system.<<  This is not shutting down the electrical system via a battery
master, this is open circuiting the system and allowing the alternator to
run wild.  I would also notice that your battery master, if wired correctly,
shunts the voltage to the coil to ground to make the engine stop running. So
flipping the switch is supposed to kill the car, bighealey is talking about
the car continuing to run.

I stand by my comments.
Rick


On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 5:11 AM, <Awgertoo at aol.com> wrote:

>  In fact you can safely disconnect the battery on a car equipped with an
> alternator while the engine is running if done via a switch which has a
> circuit that grounds the alternator output through a resistor. (See:
> http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1464)   The
> switch has three circuits which make/break the battery connection, the coil
> feed and an alternator ground.  I have one on my alternator-equipped Elva
> and when going through pre-race tech inspection I am asked to bring the car
> up to revs and then flip the switch.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> In a message dated 8/21/2008 4:16:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> ah at jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
> Richard
> I totally agree and this is why I said you can do this with a generator.
> NEVER with an alternator.
>
> regards
>
> >>>I can disconnect my battery and my car will run.  Which is a poor man's
> >field test for determining if the alternator is charging.  So yes the
> alternator
> >does supply the system.
> >
> >Write this down.  DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ON ANY
> >MODERN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
> >EVER.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> It's only a deal if it's where *you* want to go. Find your travel deal *
> here* <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>.

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Thu Aug 21 09:17:21 2008
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 08:17:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] more heat shields for sale
Message-ID: <001501c903a1$020f39a0$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I have two heat shields that I don't need.  They came with my BJ8 but are not
a match.
1.   tri- carb-  needs blasting and painting, no asbestos or board attached.
2.  BN7 or any car that uses H6 carbs.  Looks usable as is.  Still has the
original heat board and is in good shape.  (I can pull that off if you wish)

I just bought one for my BJ8 for $40.  So either of these will be priced at
that rate.

thanks

Jerry

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Aug 21 10:52:09 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:52:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)alternator
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10808210936i5c1b9699o58d429621c0aaf66@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a3b984e10808210558ief0ee2mb968468e7fb4d1fa@mail.gmail.com>
	<20080821115022.5RFQN.261406.root@mp16>
	<a3b984e10808210936i5c1b9699o58d429621c0aaf66@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808210952j6d1ad4fenc31b2424060a056d@mail.gmail.com>

Grr resent due to message size.

Yes and then one day you think you might have a charging issue on your
> wife's modern computer equipped car, so you do the same thing...
> Several thousand dollars worth of new computers later...
> or worse yet
> Somebody reading your post decides to test his personal car's electrical
> system this way and destroys a computer or three.
>
> Learn it right, you will do it right.  Lean it wrong, you will spend the
> rest of your life trying to lean the correct way.
> $.02
> Rick
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 8:50 AM, <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Well gosh.  I have done this before momentarily (never on a modern car but
>> on farm tractors, jeeps and my Healey) without ill effect to see if I am
>> getting a charge from the alternator when I was without anything but a few
>> wrenches.  I just do not understand what could be hurt on such a simple set
>> of electronics.
>>
>> Lights - no
>> Coil - no
>> Points - no
>> Flashers - no
>> Horn - no
>> Wiring - no
>>
>> errrr I lack a computer system in the Healey..........
>>
>> I stand by my method.  I promise not to do it to any computer equipped
>> Healey.

From kit at henrymotorsports.com  Thu Aug 21 12:25:46 2008
From: kit at henrymotorsports.com (Kit Henry)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 14:25:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Selling 1954 MG TF
Message-ID: <5C87D44F31784651B90F356D8FC42FB7@henryfce283bea>

Ok guys my healey sold, my jaguar did not
next on the block if there is interest

1954 MG TF 1250
Fully Restored
2.500 miles on restoration
Nut and bolt top to bottom
Marroon w/ tan interior
Probably nicer than new !
Can be driver or trailer queen
I driver it !

Asking $30,000.00

Kit Henry
419-217-0685

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 21 13:17:14 2008
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 12:17:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W239F42FCE6FD3D9A61CCDFBF6B0@phx.gbl>

Anyone tried kool aid, particularly the grape stuff?  We used to use it on
ships to clean out steam pipes and kitchen hearting bins...seriously.  Made
them shine like chrome

Richard of KY
1960 BN7 #440> To: shop at justbrits.com; healeys at autox.team.net> From:
rwil at sbcglobal.net> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:48:03 +0000> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system> > Vinegar works quite slowly. Curt
Arndt uses it for removing rust from small Healey bits. It takes Days, not 90
minutes for that purpose.
_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Thu Aug 21 13:29:33 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:29:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system
In-Reply-To: <BLU117-W239F42FCE6FD3D9A61CCDFBF6B0@phx.gbl>
References: <905966374-1218667679-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-33041131-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<BLU117-W239F42FCE6FD3D9A61CCDFBF6B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <037b01c903c4$3dc9f9d0$b95ded70$@net>

Just think of what it does to your intestines.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Collins
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 3:17 PM
To: rwil at sbcglobal.net; shop at justbrits.com; 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system

Anyone tried kool aid, particularly the grape stuff?  We used to use it on
ships to clean out steam pipes and kitchen hearting bins...seriously.  Made
them shine like chrome

Richard of KY
1960 BN7 #440> To: shop at justbrits.com; healeys at autox.team.net> From:
rwil at sbcglobal.net> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:48:03 +0000> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Cleaning out cooling system> > Vinegar works quite slowly. Curt
Arndt uses it for removing rust from small Healey bits. It takes Days, not
90
minutes for that purpose.
_________________________________________________________________

From dthall at btinternet.com  Thu Aug 21 15:15:00 2008
From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 22:15:00 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Healeys] New York
Message-ID: <93276.414.qm@web86407.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Fellow Listers
  We are planning a short stay in New york. Can anyone suggest a decent hotel within easy commute of Manhattan. 
  Many thanks David


David Hall

From al at bighealey.org  Thu Aug 21 18:23:02 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:23:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] RON PHILLIPS Passing Photos
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9D87@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <000701c903ed$3e55c270$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

It's done - the pictures are posted at
http://www.bighealey.org/Ron_Phillips/


Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Frakes, Jim [mailto:jimf at frakes-eng.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:46 AM
To: 62bt7; Al Fuller; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: RON PHILLIPS Passing Photos

Gents,

Is this an old email or do I need to do anything else.

Jim Frakes


-----Original Message-----
From: 62bt7 [mailto:62bt7 at prodigy.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:34 PM
To: Al Fuller; Frakes, Jim; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RON PHILLIPS Passing Photos

Al and Jim,

How do we get this done ?
I would like to have copy of your photos and
I have a photo to add to the list.

Kirk Kvam
62bt7 at prodigy.net


----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Fuller" <al at bighealey.org>
To: "'Frakes, Jim'" <jimf at frakes-eng.com>; "'62bt7'"
<62bt7 at prodigy.net>;
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fw: RON PHILLIPS Passing (A-H Assoc of So. Calif
&
A-H Club of San Diego)


Jim:

If you send me the pics, I can post them on my web site and give the
list a
link to them.  [I have plenty of disk, so don't worry about sending them
in
the email...]

Al

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com

From WWSCPO at aol.com  Thu Aug 21 21:23:15 2008
From: WWSCPO at aol.com (WWSCPO at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 23:23:15 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
Message-ID: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>

Hi All,
 
I'm in the process of redoing my BJ8 trunk as part of the  restoration.  I 
have three blocks of wood; two the same size which are  vinyl covered and fit on 
the left side wall and front wall of the boot for the  spare tire.  I also 
have a third which is about 12" long and about 2" X 3"  in dimension.  It has 
three Forstner cut holes with "T" nuts and 1/4 X 28  bolts.  I think I remember 
taking this off the car from around the battery,  but none of my neighboring 
BJ8s have this block of wood.  My inner  fenders are new and there are no holes 
drilled to clue me.  I can't find  this referenced anywhere.  Your help 
please, and thank you.
 
Bill Schumann  BJ8 38046



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Aug 21 21:34:27 2008
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek and Gwen Sharp)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 23:34:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP3D0A24AE87D73BC2B994CC36A0@phx.gbl>

You are right Bill, it sounds like the wood that goes in behind the battery 
to space it off the bodywork. I have a BT7 and I think the dimensions of the 
wood changed between mine and the BJ8s.  Someone with a similar car and the 
wood in place will have to help you out with dimensions as to where it fits 
exactly.

cheers,
Mirek
(with fingers worn to the bone after polishing that damn BT7 grill - 
couldn't they have spaced the bars just another 1/8th" wider!)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <WWSCPO at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??


> Hi All,
>
> I'm in the process of redoing my BJ8 trunk as part of the  restoration.  I
> have three blocks of wood; two the same size which are  vinyl covered and 
> fit on
> the left side wall and front wall of the boot for the  spare tire.  I also
> have a third which is about 12" long and about 2" X 3"  in dimension.  It 
> has
> three Forstner cut holes with "T" nuts and 1/4 X 28  bolts.  I think I 
> remember
> taking this off the car from around the battery,  but none of my 
> neighboring
> BJ8s have this block of wood.  My inner  fenders are new and there are no 
> holes
> drilled to clue me.  I can't find  this referenced anywhere.  Your help
> please, and thank you.
>
> Bill Schumann  BJ8 38046
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
> travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 21 22:00:15 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:00:15 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
In-Reply-To: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808212100m4d8cd5d6g63793ceca3cdb3d0@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

That piece of wood goes behind the battery behind the right rear fenderwell
on the BJ8.  There should be holes there which line up with hit.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 11:23 AM, <WWSCPO at aol.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I'm in the process of redoing my BJ8 trunk as part of the  restoration.  I
> have three blocks of wood; two the same size which are  vinyl covered and
> fit on
> the left side wall and front wall of the boot for the  spare tire.  I also
> have a third which is about 12" long and about 2" X 3"  in dimension.  It
> has
> three Forstner cut holes with "T" nuts and 1/4 X 28  bolts.  I think I
> remember
> taking this off the car from around the battery,  but none of my
> neighboring
> BJ8s have this block of wood.  My inner  fenders are new and there are no
> holes
> drilled to clue me.  I can't find  this referenced anywhere.  Your help
> please, and thank you.
>
> Bill Schumann  BJ8 38046

From lgalper1 at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 00:42:34 2008
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 23:42:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers
Message-ID: <48AE5FDA.80308@cox.net>

After the flurry of bumper chat several years ago, we haven't heard much.
It's time again to replace my rear bumper.
It is a bent reproduction.

Has anyone suceeded in making the rear bumper correctly?
Is there anything better than the AH Spares premium product?
Is the M**s item the same thing?

thanks,
Lou
BN1

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug 22 07:53:55 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 09:53:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
Message-ID: <026101c9045e$854c0b00$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Hi Bill,

It seems that part way through the BJ8's they fitted a different battery 
which was narrower than previous. Therefore instead of the usual wood block 
about 7/8" thick, they introduced a much thicker block to take up the width 
difference. You seem to have one.
Regardless, here are pictures of the location of the block on an earlier 
BJ8, the holes being in the same place as yours would be. The holes average 
about 4" above the brackets where the battery tray will sit. However they 
are not parallel with the brackets, the forward one being about 3 3/4" above 
where thee tray sits and the rear one being about 4 1/4" above the rear 
bracket. So it seems they weren't that exacting about it.

Hope this helps,

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <WWSCPO at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??


> Hi All,
>
> I'm in the process of redoing my BJ8 trunk as part of the  restoration.  I
> have three blocks of wood; two the same size which are  vinyl covered and 
> fit on
> the left side wall and front wall of the boot for the  spare tire.  I also
> have a third which is about 12" long and about 2" X 3"  in dimension.  It 
> has
> three Forstner cut holes with "T" nuts and 1/4 X 28  bolts.  I think I 
> remember
> taking this off the car from around the battery,  but none of my 
> neighboring
> BJ8s have this block of wood.  My inner  fenders are new and there are no 
> holes
> drilled to clue me.  I can't find  this referenced anywhere.  Your help
> please, and thank you.
>
> Bill Schumann  BJ8 38046

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Dec 06 046.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of oct07 046.jpg]

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug 22 08:14:04 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 10:14:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers
References: <48AE5FDA.80308@cox.net>
Message-ID: <028501c90461$554b0b10$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Lou,

A group of us had some rear bumpers produced by a fellow in Ohio. They are 
really quite excellent, but being hand made, and the fellow having personal 
problems, they have taken an extremely long time to be made. There was an 
initial order of around 20 pieces, and some of these may still not be 
finished and delivered. This process has taken well over two years. I really 
don't think he's willing to take on any more, nor would you want to wait 
that long for them.

Any repros I have seen are not nearly as curved as they should be. These 
should parallel the rear of the body as viewed straight down from above. If 
they are too straight, it results in the number plate lamp almost touching 
the body, and the gap between bumper and body being very uneven and 
unsightly.

I really don't know what to recommend at this point.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1 at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:42 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers


> After the flurry of bumper chat several years ago, we haven't heard much.
> It's time again to replace my rear bumper.
> It is a bent reproduction.
>
> Has anyone suceeded in making the rear bumper correctly?
> Is there anything better than the AH Spares premium product?
> Is the M**s item the same thing?
>
> thanks,
> Lou
> BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug 22 09:14:09 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:14:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
In-Reply-To: <026101c9045e$854c0b00$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
	<026101c9045e$854c0b00$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <48AED7C1.4030005@comcast.net>

I've seen (pictures, at least) of English batteries that have a deep 
groove on one side, into which the thicker wood block would fit without 
pushing the "normal" battery too far into the boot.

Anyone else seen/heard of batteries with a horizontal notch along the 
length of one side?


bs


Rich C wrote:
> Hi Bill,
>
> It seems that part way through the BJ8's they fitted a different battery 
> which was narrower than previous. Therefore instead of the usual wood block 
> about 7/8" thick, they introduced a much thicker block to take up the width 
> difference. You seem to have one.
> Regardless, here are pictures of the location of the block on an earlier 
> BJ8, the holes being in the same place as yours would be. The holes average 
> about 4" above the brackets where the battery tray will sit. However they 
> are not parallel with the brackets, the forward one being about 3 3/4" above 
> where thee tray sits and the rear one being about 4 1/4" above the rear 
> bracket. So it seems they weren't that exacting about it.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Rich Chrysler
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Aug 22 09:16:23 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:16:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers
In-Reply-To: <028501c90461$554b0b10$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
References: <48AE5FDA.80308@cox.net>
	<028501c90461$554b0b10$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <48AED847.5040802@comcast.net>

Our 100M came with perfect original bumpers (usual surface rust on the 
inside).

Will trade for Saudi Arabian oil field.


bs


Rich C wrote:
> Lou,
>
> A group of us had some rear bumpers produced by a fellow in Ohio. They are 
> really quite excellent, but being hand made, and the fellow having personal 
> problems, they have taken an extremely long time to be made. There was an 
> initial order of around 20 pieces, and some of these may still not be 
> finished and delivered. This process has taken well over two years. I really 
> don't think he's willing to take on any more, nor would you want to wait 
> that long for them.
>
> Any repros I have seen are not nearly as curved as they should be. These 
> should parallel the rear of the body as viewed straight down from above. If 
> they are too straight, it results in the number plate lamp almost touching 
> the body, and the gap between bumper and body being very uneven and 
> unsightly.
>
> I really don't know what to recommend at this point.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Fri Aug 22 09:30:21 2008
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:30:21 +0200
Subject: [Healeys]  Hundred Rear Bumpers
In-Reply-To: <028501c90461$554b0b10$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
References: <48AE5FDA.80308@cox.net>
	<028501c90461$554b0b10$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175004975B30@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Lou,
I am one of thoes who are still waiting to receive their hand made Healey 100
rear bumper. Recently I was luckky enough to get an original rear bumper here
in Germany in decent restorable condition. I would be happy to swap my order
to you. I payed $ 400 + $ 90 for shipping to Germany  = $ 490. In case you
give me the $ 400 for the bumper I would be happy to pass my claim to you or
any other in case you would stand back. I think all the other bumper guys can
confirm that I paid for the bumper and would be one of the next who may
receive one.

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter/Germany
54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
von Rich C
Gesendet: Freitag, 22. August 2008 16:14
An: Lou G; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers

Lou,

A group of us had some rear bumpers produced by a fellow in Ohio. They are
really quite excellent, but being hand made, and the fellow having personal
problems, they have taken an extremely long time to be made. There was an
initial order of around 20 pieces, and some of these may still not be finished
and delivered. This process has taken well over two years. I really don't
think he's willing to take on any more, nor would you want to wait that long
for them.

Any repros I have seen are not nearly as curved as they should be. These
should parallel the rear of the body as viewed straight down from above. If
they are too straight, it results in the number plate lamp almost touching the
body, and the gap between bumper and body being very uneven and unsightly.

I really don't know what to recommend at this point.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1 at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:42 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Hundred Rear Bumpers


> After the flurry of bumper chat several years ago, we haven't heard much.
> It's time again to replace my rear bumper.
> It is a bent reproduction.
>
> Has anyone suceeded in making the rear bumper correctly?
> Is there anything better than the AH Spares premium product?
> Is the M**s item the same thing?
>
> thanks,
> Lou
> BN1

From tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl  Fri Aug 22 12:37:38 2008
From: tadeusz.malkiewicz at plusnet.pl (Tadeusz Malkiewicz)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:37:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part's List
Message-ID: <001801c90486$272bf210$0300a8c0@tm4>

Hello,

Does anyone have a 100 Parts List available??.. I am looking for one. If so,
please contact me off list.

Many thanks, Tadek

From glembotski at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 22 12:44:20 2008
From: glembotski at sbcglobal.net (glembotski at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 11:44:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Workshop Manuals
Message-ID: <002001c90487$179ed0f0$210110ac@JOHNNY>

Since I have sold my BJ8 I no longer am in need of a collection of service
manuals that I have collected over the years. I would like to sell them in a
single lot.  Here is the list;

1. Workshop Manual for Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Mk 1,2,3  1959 - 68, by
Kenneth Bell, Published by Autopress LTD

2. Chilton's Repair and Tune-up Guide for 100/6, 3000 Mk1,2,3, Sprite, Austin
America, Published 1970

3. Official Austin Healey 100/6 and 3000 , 1956 - 1968 by Robert Bentley
(note this is a reprint of the Austin Healey workshop manual by British
Leyland Corp. ltd 1968)

4. Austin Healey 100/6 - 3000 Workshop Manual by Drake 1972

5. Haynes SU Carburetors Workshop Manual 1986

6. Tuning SU Carburetors by Speedsport 1972

Buyer will pay for postage.

From ghess4 at cox.net  Fri Aug 22 13:50:59 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:50:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
In-Reply-To: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F859B112E890480DBBE574826FCD2580@GalePC>

Bill, if you can give me an address (off line is fine) I will send you a 
template which will locate the holes for you.
Gale Hess      ghess4 at cox.net
BJ8-35887
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <WWSCPO at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 8:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??


> Hi All,
>
> I'm in the process of redoing my BJ8 trunk as part of the  restoration.  I
> have three blocks of wood; two the same size which are  vinyl covered and 
> fit on
> the left side wall and front wall of the boot for the  spare tire.  I also
> have a third which is about 12" long and about 2" X 3"  in dimension.  It 
> has
> three Forstner cut holes with "T" nuts and 1/4 X 28  bolts.  I think I 
> remember
> taking this off the car from around the battery,  but none of my 
> neighboring
> BJ8s have this block of wood.  My inner  fenders are new and there are no 
> holes
> drilled to clue me.  I can't find  this referenced anywhere.  Your help
> please, and thank you.
>
> Bill Schumann  BJ8 38046
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
> travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ghess4 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Aug 22 13:58:38 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 15:58:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Workshop Manuals
Message-ID: <20080822195838.WJTH27873.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Price?


> 
> From: <glembotski at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: 2008/08/22 Fri PM 02:44:20 EDT
> To: "Healey Forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Workshop Manuals
> 
> Since I have sold my BJ8 I no longer am in need of a collection of service
> manuals that I have collected over the years. I would like to sell them in a
> single lot.  Here is the list;
> 
> 1. Workshop Manual for Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Mk 1,2,3  1959 - 68, by
> Kenneth Bell, Published by Autopress LTD
> 
> 2. Chilton's Repair and Tune-up Guide for 100/6, 3000 Mk1,2,3, Sprite, Austin
> America, Published 1970
> 
> 3. Official Austin Healey 100/6 and 3000 , 1956 - 1968 by Robert Bentley
> (note this is a reprint of the Austin Healey workshop manual by British
> Leyland Corp. ltd 1968)
> 
> 4. Austin Healey 100/6 - 3000 Workshop Manual by Drake 1972
> 
> 5. Haynes SU Carburetors Workshop Manual 1986
> 
> 6. Tuning SU Carburetors by Speedsport 1972
> 
> Buyer will pay for postage.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 22 15:42:16 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:42:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] cocpit insulation
Message-ID: <176395.96446.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

driving the car alot for the first time in years its so so hot what is a good insulation material to use moss has 2 kinds dynamat and another foil product any help is appreciated

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 22 15:57:54 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator,  Follow up
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><jXIgN9EOPSrIFwHc@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<001e01c90381$e907b230$4036e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <000201c904a2$21ed4260$d636e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Nothing?     Everyone must be alternatord out.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] alternator


> Thought I would jump  in with my most recent experience with an alternator
> set up.
>
> I just installed a Moss Lucas alternator kit on my MGA.    The "A" uses 
> the
> exact same voltage
> regulator that our Healeys do and the wire size appears to be the same 
> size
> at the
> D and F terminals.
>
> The original D and F wires are the only wires used for the alt. hook up 
> with
> NO larger B+ cable
> used at all.    Some of the wires are moved around at the old voltage reg.
> because of the internal
> reg.  in the new alternator.
>
>
>
> Just returned from a round trip to PA.  and IN.  with no obvious problems.
>
> Besides the Healey being a 6 cyl. and the "A" is a 4 cyl.  the cars 
> systems
> are very similar.
>
> I find it very interesting that the original wire gauges are still used 
> ( 2
> wires)  with no
> additional thicker cable as mentioned in previous  emails.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Aug 22 16:53:28 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 06:53:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] cocpit insulation
In-Reply-To: <176395.96446.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <176395.96446.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808221553g1ee33b28ye292c1f6288ed79c@mail.gmail.com>

John -
Before spending alot of money on Dynamat, you need to first make sure all
the various holes and gaps are sealed up.  This will take care of probably
60%-70% of your heat problem and not cost you any more than some duct tape
and insulation.  Places to look are:

1) Gearbox tunnel.  this is usually the #1 culprit.  Make sure the tunnel
around all sides, particularly the front (which goes up against the
bulkhead) is properly sealed.  If not, you can buy a roll of Camper Seal at
your local car parts store and that will be all you need to properly seal up
the gearbox tunnel.

2) Handbrake lever hole.  usually this needs to be sealed up with a piece of
hand cut interior fabric.

3) If you have a BN1 or BN2 - There is a long hole on top of the gearbox
bulkhead.  This hole should be sealed up with a piece of insulation if you
have it, or weather seal should be stuffed up there and that will stop the
flow of air from the engine compartment.

4) BN4-BJ8 - These cars are made to be either left hand drive or right hand
drive.  This means that your car will have a spare set of holes on the
passenger side of the car for the steering wheel and clutch and brake
cylinder.  Tape over these holes with duct tape.

5) Make sure all open holes in the bulkhead (firewall) or floorboards are
blocked off (with duct tape or grommets)

6) Try all of that first.  I can say that unless you live in a very hot
climate, that should take car of most of your problem.  If not, then last
but not least you can buy a pre-cut koolmat kit  for a healey (same type of
product as koolmat) from southgate british for about the same price as
buying the raw materials.  http://www.southgatebritish.com

Good Luck!

Alan
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 5:42 AM, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> driving the car alot for the first time in years its so so hot what is a
> good insulation material to use moss has 2 kinds dynamat and another foil
> product any help is appreciated
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 22 18:05:53 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:05:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] hot feet in a Healey
In-Reply-To: <176395.96446.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <332577.58513.qm@web83309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

john doe 
Make sure that when you turn off your heater that no water is flowing through the heater core , start with a cold engine , turn on your heater 
and blower on, the air from the heater vents should not get hot while you are driving , if it does you need to adjust the heater control valve ... 
      Norman Nock


--- On Fri, 8/22/08, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] cocpit insulation
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 2:42 PM
> driving the car alot for the first time in years its so so
> hot what is a good insulation material to use moss has 2
> kinds dynamat and another foil product any help is
> appreciated
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Aug 22 18:59:47 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 00:59:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator,  Follow up
In-Reply-To: <000201c904a2$21ed4260$d636e046@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <140534975-1219245131-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1103452917-@bxe186.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAADVzk59zsh9JmcLMprgoN0ABAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com><jXIgN9EOPSrIFwHc@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<001e01c90381$e907b230$4036e046@markl946cfrd7q> 
	<000201c904a2$21ed4260$d636e046@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W478B6FAC8492F12F5B91E0A5650@phx.gbl>

The load on the charging system is determined by the amount of electricity
used. The alternator operates by establishing the overall voltage in the
electrical system slightly above the nominal voltage rating of the battery.
This is set at about 13.5 volts. Because of the set point the battery charges
to match the system voltage by simple equilibrium. (This is why an ammeter in
a car equipped with an alternator is only so much excess weight. The only time
it changes enough to be perceptible is on starting, and then it quickly
returns the system to the set voltage and stays there.)

When the system voltage is at set point the alternator idles. The amount of
work the alternator does to maintain that equilibrium is totally dependent on
the load from the power using systems in the car. Typically the load for a
Healey consists of the power used by the ignition, lights, overdrive solenoid
and radio (if the car is so equipped). These are the same loads you would have
if running a generator. For that reason the alternator will usually not
produce any more charge (amps) than a generator. If you are loading the car up
with a lot of extreme high power use accessories (hydraulics, 1000 watt amp,
aircraft landing lights?...) you may approach the limit of the power carrying
capacity of the charging wire. Nothing else should be affected.

The extra generating capacity of an alternator may be useful if you are using
a mix of accessories that exceed the charging capacity of the generator, but
for the most part it will not be used. There are a lot of good reasons to use
an alternator, but a 75 amp charging capacity is probably not one of them.

Bill Lawrence
----------------------------------------
> From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 17:57:54 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Alternator,  Follow up
>
> Nothing?     Everyone must be alternatord out.

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 23 03:43:34 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 09:43:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 main brake line
Message-ID: <BLU105-W1934BAB835044CF4075FEAD5650@phx.gbl>

H Guys
Does anyone know the length of the main brake line from front to back. I have
just clipped mine in starting fron the rear chassis bracket to find there is
no way it will reach to the top of the 4way union, its about 4" short. I would
just like to know the length it should be while I take the new one out to
compare and then ring the supplier.
thanks Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From dthall at btinternet.com  Sat Aug 23 07:46:01 2008
From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:46:01 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Healeys] NYC Visit
Message-ID: <451964.75723.qm@web86404.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Many thanks to those who helped, hotel booked.
  Regards


David Hall

From mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  Sat Aug 23 19:34:16 2008
From: mrfinespanner at earthlink.net (Mr. Finespanner)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 18:34:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 main brake line
Message-ID: <10F3AD6C14E9440AA09215256241EE5B@ElComputero>

Andy,
It's 87.25" for a BJ8 with the flat rear hose bracket, 87.75" for the angled 
bracket.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 09:43:34 +0000
From: andy pole <ampole at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 main brake line
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W1934BAB835044CF4075FEAD5650 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

H Guys
Does anyone know the length of the main brake line from front to back. I 
have
just clipped mine in starting fron the rear chassis bracket to find there is
no way it will reach to the top of the 4way union, its about 4" short. I 
would
just like to know the length it should be while I take the new one out to
compare and then ring the supplier.
thanks Andy 

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Sat Aug 23 17:13:12 2008
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:13:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water and running rough
Message-ID: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

Searching the massive collective wisdom on this list.

Yesterday, I washed the engine down.  I took care to keep water off the
distributor (but not all) and rinsed after using a cleaner that would cut
through engine oil.

Immediately following the wash it would not start.

Five hours later it started, but it ran rough.  I took it for a drive and it
seemed to miss at low rpm and smooth out at higher rpm.  I removed the
distributor cover and the distributor appeared to be dry.

Today I started the car and it started without choke.  Unusual.  I checked
the choke linkage at the carbs and the choke appears to be off.  But, it is
still running rough.

Michael Hartfield
BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Aug 23 17:24:28 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 19:24:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not interested...
In-Reply-To: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <012a01c90577$641a44a0$6f00a8c0@michael>

I have a mystery posted on my blog... Any ideas anyone???
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?cat=10

Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 23 17:53:00 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 23:53:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not  interested...
Message-ID: <082320082353.11926.48B0A2DC00009E9100002E96220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Simple, actually.

Some numbnuts inspector at the PO opened your package and, realizing he'd discovered the Healey brake calipers he had been coveting for years substituted the distributors thinking anyone who owned a British car wouldn't know the difference.

What do I win?

bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
> I have a mystery posted on my blog... Any ideas anyone???
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?cat=10
> 
> Michael Salter
> 100 (1953) #174
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as bspidell at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Aug 23 18:11:29 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 08:11:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not  interested...
In-Reply-To: <012a01c90577$641a44a0$6f00a8c0@michael>
References: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
	<012a01c90577$641a44a0$6f00a8c0@michael>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808231711u4f4636eeya150e2616d761dce@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

As someone who has dealt this several times, it's clear that you are
the latest victim of 9/11.  When packages like this cross the border,
they usually XRay them these days.  When they see car parts they set
the package aside for inspection because of the metal.

So it's likely the USPS inspector opened your package and another one
that was flagged - probably right before his lunch break.  When he
came back from eating his ham sandwich, Cheetos and Coke, he forgot
which parts were in which package and sent your BJ8 calipers to a
Studebaker enthusiast in Sheboigan.

I'd start with the USPS inpectors at the distribution facility that
your package went through.

Alan


On 8/24/08, Michael Salter <msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote:
> I have a mystery posted on my blog... Any ideas anyone???
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?cat=10
>
> Michael Salter
> 100 (1953) #174
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Aug 23 18:12:34 2008
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:12:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not  interested...
In-Reply-To: <082320082353.11926.48B0A2DC00009E9100002E96220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>
References: <082320082353.11926.48B0A2DC00009E9100002E96220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <012e01c9057e$1bca49f0$6f00a8c0@michael>

I think U are close with the "numbnuts" bit...
Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: August 23, 2008 7:53 PM
To: Michael Salter; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not interested...

Simple, actually.

Some numbnuts inspector at the PO opened your package and, realizing he'd
discovered the Healey brake calipers he had been coveting for years
substituted the distributors thinking anyone who owned a British car
wouldn't know the difference.

What do I win?

bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
> I have a mystery posted on my blog... Any ideas anyone???
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?cat=10
> 
> Michael Salter
> 100 (1953) #174
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 23 18:31:11 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 00:31:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water and running rough
Message-ID: <082420080031.9639.48B0ABCF000B5B31000025A7220700295304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Sure sounds like you got moisture somewhere, whether you can see it or not.  If you have points they might have been pitted by arcing due to moisture when you tried to start.

Check your points (if you're not electronic), and all connections (esp. secondary ignition wires).  Blow everything dry with dry air and/or try some sort of water dispersant (WD-40 might work but I have no experience using it in this situation).


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
> Searching the massive collective wisdom on this list.
> 
> Yesterday, I washed the engine down.  I took care to keep water off the
> distributor (but not all) and rinsed after using a cleaner that would cut
> through engine oil.
> 
> Immediately following the wash it would not start.
> 
> Five hours later it started, but it ran rough.  I took it for a drive and it
> seemed to miss at low rpm and smooth out at higher rpm.  I removed the
> distributor cover and the distributor appeared to be dry.
> 
> Today I started the car and it started without choke.  Unusual.  I checked
> the choke linkage at the carbs and the choke appears to be off.  But, it is
> still running rough.
> 
> Michael Hartfield
> BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Aug 23 19:55:37 2008
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 18:55:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water and running rough
In-Reply-To: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
References: <C4D5E798.5D5C%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <0F719EAF12D9457E8A44854B6D400D55@LeonardPC>

Michael:  I periodically clean my engine with a pressure gun and Gunk. 
After having the same problem when I first started doing this, I found that 
the answer was compressed air.  You need to get all the water out of the 
electrical system that you can and that includes the spark plug wires at the 
engine, inside the distributor, the spark plug wires where they enter the 
cap, and the coil where the high tension wire enters the coil (unscrew the 
connector and blow the moisture out of the coil where the wire enters). 
That has worked for me.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Water and running rough


> Searching the massive collective wisdom on this list.
>
> Yesterday, I washed the engine down.  I took care to keep water off the
> distributor (but not all) and rinsed after using a cleaner that would cut
> through engine oil.
>
> Immediately following the wash it would not start.
>
> Five hours later it started, but it ran rough.  I took it for a drive and 
> it
> seemed to miss at low rpm and smooth out at higher rpm.  I removed the
> distributor cover and the distributor appeared to be dry.
>
> Today I started the car and it started without choke.  Unusual.  I checked
> the choke linkage at the carbs and the choke appears to be off.  But, it 
> is
> still running rough.
>
> Michael Hartfield
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Aug 23 20:32:24 2008
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 22:32:24 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] New Posting on my Blog. Delete if not interested...
Message-ID: <ca1.3cadcd8a.35e22238@aol.com>

I agree with Alan on this one.  As the Wendy's commercial used to  say:  
"Parts is Parts"  And you need to be thankful for small  things--those 
distributors are way more interesting than Healey brake  calipers.
 
Somewhere in the Waldorf, MD USPS distribution facility there is a 4.55  
welded Sprite pumpkin that I bought off of ebay.  Only one face  of the box with 
shipping label still attached reached my home and despite  several calls to the 
facility manager and complaints to the White House I  have yet to receive the 
part.  
 
Indifferentially yours--Michael Oritt
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 8/23/2008 8:12:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:

So it's  likely the USPS inspector opened your package and another one
that was  flagged - probably right before his lunch break.  When he
came back  from eating his ham sandwich, Cheetos and Coke, he forgot
which parts were  in which package and sent your BJ8 calipers to a
Studebaker enthusiast in  Sheboigan.

I'd start with the USPS inpectors at the distribution  facility that
your package went  through.





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sat Aug 23 22:05:14 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 06:05:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] ignition miss
In-Reply-To: <10F3AD6C14E9440AA09215256241EE5B@ElComputero>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJowkNZXjNFOk6Jkz2e3iqUBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Hello,

a friend of mine has a BJ8 with stock engine (but Getrag gearbox) but
Mallory distributor without vacuum advance. When he runs the car between
2,000 and 2,500 rpm and starts to slightly accelerate his engine starts to
misfire. It feels like as if someone switches off ignition for a split
second and the car misfires.

There's no problem running the car in either speeds below 2,000 rpm or above
2,500 rpm, full acceleration, steady speed or deceleration. He had his carbs
adjusted and synchronized but this did not change the situation.

Yesterday we put a new coil (high performance) in. This made the problem
even worse. Afterwards we exchanged the Mallory distributor against an
electronic ignition (123ignition), but forgot to connect the vacuum line on
our first test ride (vacuum line blocked by a screw). The ignition misses
were still there but they were not as bad as on the test drive with the
Mallory. On our last test drive we had the vaccum hose connected and we
nearly had no miss anymore. On his drive back home (2 hours drive) he still
had some few ignition misses, but not as many as with the old setup.

His ignition cables are new and look good. Does anybody has an idea what
these misses can be caused by?

Thank you.

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 23 22:06:34 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 21:06:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] cleaning engine .not starting
Message-ID: <365841.46408.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

check if the carbon brush inside the distributor cap is stuck or missing ... remove cap  with HT wires and dry it out ... next time you wash engine remove the cap and wires and put a plastic bag over the distributor .. you must have water on the HT circuit dry it out ... 
      Norman Nock

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Aug 23 22:14:20 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 12:14:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] ignition miss
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJowkNZXjNFOk6Jkz2e3iqUBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <10F3AD6C14E9440AA09215256241EE5B@ElComputero>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJowkNZXjNFOk6Jkz2e3iqUBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808232114jc080ba8n3bd4524bb164269f@mail.gmail.com>

Eric -

I have found that almost always when you have "missing" under acceleration
or higher RPMs when you start accelerating that it is typically a fuel
delivery problem.  Common culprits are rust in the tank that fouls up the
fuel filters or fuel pump.  Also, if you have fiddled with the fuel tank
recently (maybe etched and coated it?) that can also be a contributor.  A
fuel pump that is failing can also cause this problem.

If there is a fuel filter on the fuel line, try replacing that first with a
new, clean filter.

An easy diagnosis is when the car starts "missing" immediately switch off
the ignition and coast to a stop on the side of the road.  Pull off the top
of the float chambers on the SU carbs - if the float chambers are half empty
or dry, this is your problem.

Last but not least you should always replace the dizzy rotor!

Alan



On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:05 PM, Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) <
lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> a friend of mine has a BJ8 with stock engine (but Getrag gearbox) but
> Mallory distributor without vacuum advance. When he runs the car between
> 2,000 and 2,500 rpm and starts to slightly accelerate his engine starts to
> misfire. It feels like as if someone switches off ignition for a split
> second and the car misfires.
>
> There's no problem running the car in either speeds below 2,000 rpm or
> above
> 2,500 rpm, full acceleration, steady speed or deceleration. He had his
> carbs
> adjusted and synchronized but this did not change the situation.
>
> Yesterday we put a new coil (high performance) in. This made the problem
> even worse. Afterwards we exchanged the Mallory distributor against an
> electronic ignition (123ignition), but forgot to connect the vacuum line on
> our first test ride (vacuum line blocked by a screw). The ignition misses
> were still there but they were not as bad as on the test drive with the
> Mallory. On our last test drive we had the vaccum hose connected and we
> nearly had no miss anymore. On his drive back home (2 hours drive) he still
> had some few ignition misses, but not as many as with the old setup.
>
> His ignition cables are new and look good. Does anybody has an idea what
> these misses can be caused by?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 04:53:49 2008
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 06:53:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] The South's Premier Austin Healey Event
Message-ID: <c8b.3274bd45.35e297bd@aol.com>

Less than 30 days until Southeastern Classic, the  South's Premier Austin
Healey Event.
Rooms are going fast at the host hotel for Southeastern  Classic. At only $45
per night for the host hotel it's a deal that can't be  beat!

As of today we have over 65 registrations and time is running  out to make
banquet reservations so register soon. We still have a  few rooms available at
the host hotel and plenty of overflow rooms at  neighboring hotels so there is
room for everyone.

Register soon in order to receive the low low low advance  hotel rate of only
$45. Visit _www.seclassic.com_ (http://www.seclassic.com/)  for more
information and a registration form.

Join us in September for Good friends,  good conversation, good food and good
drink.



And boy, is  there a lot of good food and drink in Tennessee. Where do you
want to start? How about a down-home dinner at Miss Mary Bobo's Boarding
House.
Just as in Mr.  Jack's day, dinner is served family-style Monday through
Saturday at 1 p.m.  sharp (and at 11 a.m. during the busy seasons). In rural
Tennessee, we call the midday meal  "dinner"--not lunch--and in the evening we
eat
"supper."


We have  200 seats available for Miss Mary Bobobs on Friday for  "dinner" so
this is first come, first serve.


Tentative Schedule of Events
Thursday, Sept. 18       Registration and  Hospitality
Friday, Sept 19            Car Show at the Motlow House,
                 lunch at Miss Mary Bobobs, dinner on your own
Saturday, Sept. 20       Rally, Gymkhana,  Funkhana, Jack Daniels Party
Sunday, Sept. 21          Good-byes



The Awards  Banquet will be held at the Jack Daniel's Barbecue Pavilion. The
open-air  pavilion offers a spectacular view of the Jack Daniel's Hollow and
the  town of Lynchburg, Tennessee. And it's tailor-made for good  southern
cooking and old-fashioned  fun.


The menu  includes sumptuous barbecue chicken and tangy pulled pork, creamy
coleslaw,  homemade potato salad, bubbling baked beans, hot homemade
cornbread,
 tipsy baked apples, Jack Daniel's special chocolate-pecan pie, all you can
drink  including adult beverages, and a live band. Group  transportation will
be provided to  and from the party stopping at  motels, and this is required
by Jack Daniels.




See you in September!

Thanks,
Jim  Werner
Louisville, KY



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Aug 24 08:28:01 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:28:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] ignition miss
Message-ID: <082420081428.1509.48B16FF0000DA5B7000005E5220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

The fact a "high performance" coil--hence higher secondary voltage--made the problem worse indicates there is a leakage of secondary voltage somewhere (higher secondary voltage may cause breakdowns in the secondary ignition system--why "HP" coils aren't necessarily a good thing).   Also, changing the distributor didn't help much, indicating the problem is elsewhere.

With the HP coil in, run up the car in a dark (ventilated) garage, watching the ignition system closely.  Look for arcing on all the components.   Just 'cause cables "look good" doesn't mean they are.  Check plug leads with a DVM (digital voltmeter) and inspect closely.  Could be a bad terminal on one lead.


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com>
> Hello,
> 
> a friend of mine has a BJ8 with stock engine (but Getrag gearbox) but
> Mallory distributor without vacuum advance. When he runs the car between
> 2,000 and 2,500 rpm and starts to slightly accelerate his engine starts to
> misfire. It feels like as if someone switches off ignition for a split
> second and the car misfires.
> 
> There's no problem running the car in either speeds below 2,000 rpm or above
> 2,500 rpm, full acceleration, steady speed or deceleration. He had his carbs
> adjusted and synchronized but this did not change the situation.
> 
> Yesterday we put a new coil (high performance) in. This made the problem
> even worse. Afterwards we exchanged the Mallory distributor against an
> electronic ignition (123ignition), but forgot to connect the vacuum line on
> our first test ride (vacuum line blocked by a screw). The ignition misses
> were still there but they were not as bad as on the test drive with the
> Mallory. On our last test drive we had the vaccum hose connected and we
> nearly had no miss anymore. On his drive back home (2 hours drive) he still
> had some few ignition misses, but not as many as with the old setup.
> 
> His ignition cables are new and look good. Does anybody has an idea what
> these misses can be caused by?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Eric
> Heinsberg/Germany

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sun Aug 24 08:33:27 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:33:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] ignition miss
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808232114jc080ba8n3bd4524bb164269f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAJjndGrnxlVFiwwViJ/jGTIBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Alan, thank you for your detailed email.

At first I also thought that fuel delivery is the problem. But then we
noticed that the engine does not miss a beat when accelerated hard. I think
that a hard acceleration needs more fuel in short time than a slight
acceleration. That was the reason we didn't check fuel delivery. Do you
think that there is be a probability of fuel shortage in the carbs anyhow?

The dizzy rotor was replaced, with the whole dizzy.

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 6:14 AM
To: eric.frenken at brits-n-pieces.com
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition miss

Eric -

I have found that almost always when you have "missing" under acceleration
or higher RPMs when you start accelerating that it is typically a fuel
delivery problem.  Common culprits are rust in the tank that fouls up the
fuel filters or fuel pump.  Also, if you have fiddled with the fuel tank
recently (maybe etched and coated it?) that can also be a contributor.  A
fuel pump that is failing can also cause this problem.

If there is a fuel filter on the fuel line, try replacing that first with a
new, clean filter.

An easy diagnosis is when the car starts "missing" immediately switch off
the ignition and coast to a stop on the side of the road.  Pull off the top
of the float chambers on the SU carbs - if the float chambers are half empty
or dry, this is your problem.

Last but not least you should always replace the dizzy rotor!

Alan

From theswed at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 24 10:14:30 2008
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 09:14:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Car Vibration
Message-ID: <BAY139-W51F8C8F13BCF3134EB2340B3640@phx.gbl>

Hey Everyone,

I was driving on the freeway on Saturday and suddenly the car began to vibrate
rather violently.  I thought a tire may be going flat and pulled over.  A
visual inspection revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I got off the freeway
and noticed the shake would occur at low speeds up to 40 mph.
>From 40-50 mph the shake would go away. Above 50 mph the shake would come back
.  The vibration seems to come from the front end.  I got the car home and
haven't touched it yet.  The entire car was restored and has about 6000 miles
on it.  Everything (suspension, brakes, bearings, etc) is new. Any ideas?

Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Aug 24 10:31:23 2008
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 12:31:23 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Car Vibration
Message-ID: <cf2.3d4d9b0f.35e2e6db@aol.com>

Depending on the "age of the tires" it is quite possible that you may be  
experiencing tread separation. Your tires may look great visually and still have  
this happen without warning.
This quite often is not visible at the side wall and you may need to jack  
the front end up then rotate each wheel while visually inspecting the tread area 
 for a slightly raised segment. 
We had a club member experience this situation a year ago while driving  
about 65 MPH. He literally thought that his front end was coming apart.  
Fortunately his spare was in good shape and he drove home at a much slower  pace.   

M.S.Brantley,  Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. &  Delegate




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From theswed at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 24 11:31:45 2008
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 10:31:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Vibration
Message-ID: <BAY139-W2338D7090FBE812F1CE96CB3640@phx.gbl>

Hey List,

Thanks for the quick responses to my vibration problem.  I jacked up the car
and pulled off the front tires.  I found a bulge on one of the inner
sidewalls.  The tires are pretty old but look new.  Looks like I should
replace the tires.  I have the Michelin XZX's (165/15). Any suggestions for a
tire for the narrower 48 spoke wheels? Thanks.

Kenny
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From theswed at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 24 11:44:57 2008
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 10:44:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Was vibrations - now found another problem
Message-ID: <BAY139-W5014E4EE88EA803230668BB3640@phx.gbl>

While I had my car jacked up to check out the front end vibration, I figured I
would try to pinpoint my oil drip.  I noticed a few months ago I had oil
dripping from the bottom of the bell housing.  Since then, I changed ou my
transmission oil to the synthetic Redline.  The benefit of that oil is it has
a distinctly different color from the engine oil.  It appears my oil leak from
the bell housing is about 90% transmission oil.  I also noticed a leak coming
from the clutch cover plate (100% tranny oil).  Any suggestions?


It is looking like I might have a lot of work ahead. :-(

Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008

From rjh.co at tx.rr.com  Sun Aug 24 15:29:43 2008
From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 16:29:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>
References: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>
Message-ID: <004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$@co@tx.rr.com>

A while back, one of the listers suggested replacing the intake manifold
nuts with a special aircraft nut that is undersized so that it is easier to
fit a wrench in the tight space.  I cannot locate that posting in the
archives.  Anyone remember what that type of undersized nut is called?  I
think they may be fabricated from Titanium as well.

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Aug 24 15:40:49 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 17:40:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$%co@tx.rr.com>
References: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>
	<004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$%co@tx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <008201c90632$136223a0$3a266ae0$@net>

It is found at:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21042

believe that you want the 5/26 24 locknut

This is listed on my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rjhco
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 5:30 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts

A while back, one of the listers suggested replacing the intake manifold
nuts with a special aircraft nut that is undersized so that it is easier to
fit a wrench in the tight space.  I cannot locate that posting in the
archives.  Anyone remember what that type of undersized nut is called?  I
think they may be fabricated from Titanium as well.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Aug 24 16:34:46 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:34:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <008201c90632$136223a0$3a266ae0$@net>
References: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>
	<004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$%co@tx.rr.com>
	<008201c90632$136223a0$3a266ae0$@net>
Message-ID: <48B1E206.2030006@comcast.net>

Anybody tried these on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange studs?


bs

John Sims wrote:
> It is found at:
>
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21042
>
> believe that you want the 5/26 24 locknut
>
> This is listed on my site.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 24 19:14:41 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:14:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <48B1E206.2030006@comcast.net>
References: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt>
	<004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$%co@tx.rr.com>
	<008201c90632$136223a0$3a266ae0$@net> <48B1E206.2030006@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808241814j28813a60iacd8813bce12eae0@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

In my experience good old fashioned brass nuts in this area are still the
best option.  If you are worried about them coming off, use a SS
lockwasher.  The only thing is each time you remove them, replace them with
new nuts.

I've had brass nuts here, used with anti-seize, for over 40 K miles and have
not touched them, they stay nice and tight.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 6:34 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Anybody tried these on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange studs?
>
>
> bs
>
> John Sims wrote:
> > It is found at:
> >
> > https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21042
> >
> > believe that you want the 5/26 24 locknut
> >
> > This is listed on my site.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > www.healey6.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jsoderling at astound.net  Sun Aug 24 20:10:18 2008
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 19:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Vibration
References: <BAY139-W2338D7090FBE812F1CE96CB3640@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005f01c90657$b8c4b3b0$6501a8c0@Soderling>

Kenny,
The best 165R15 tire is the Kumho Power Star 758.  The tire has a UTQG 
rating of 400 AB and a speed rating of T (118MPH).  These rating a better 
than almost any other 165R18 tire.  And the best part is Tire Rack has them 
for $40 plus shipping.  Get them from Tire Rack and then have your wire 
wheel guy mount and balance them - don't have it done at a regular tire 
dealer.  The only down side of the Kumho is it isn't the graphics aren't 
vintage looking.
Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kenny J" <theswed at hotmail.com>
To: "Healeys Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:31 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Vibration


> Hey List,
>
> Thanks for the quick responses to my vibration problem.  I jacked up the 
> car
> and pulled off the front tires.  I found a bulge on one of the inner
> sidewalls.  The tires are pretty old but look new.  Looks like I should
> replace the tires.  I have the Michelin XZX's (165/15). Any suggestions 
> for a
> tire for the narrower 48 spoke wheels? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> _________________________________________________________________
> Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
> o_082008
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as jsoderling at astound.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Aug 24 22:29:48 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2008 22:29:48 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808241814j28813a60iacd8813bce12eae0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNGEBECNAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<In my experience good old fashioned brass nuts in this area are still the
best option.  If you are worried about them coming off, use a SS
lockwasher.  The only thing is each time you remove them, replace them with
new nuts.>>

Almost TOTALLY agree, Alan.  The 'SS locks' are IMHO a bit of overkill
(as you prove below<G>!!).

<<I've had brass nuts here, used with anti-seize, for over 40 K miles and
have not touched them, they stay nice and tight.>>

Absolutely!!!  I would be scared to death to use steel ones (at least on my
own car<G>) as I have HAD the non-pleasure of having the CHORE of working on
custs' car WITH steel ones<VBF>!!  NOT 'fun'!!!

Stick to the brass (in stock), Jim & Bob!!

Ed

From alan.bromfield at virgin.net  Mon Aug 25 03:04:08 2008
From: alan.bromfield at virgin.net (Alan Bromfield)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 10:04:08 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Intake Nuts
In-Reply-To: <48B1E206.2030006@comcast.net>
References: <000701c8ae28$53ea2d80$ec50e104@yourc8bh3jaglt><004a01c90630$86b07d40$941177c0$%co@tx.rr.com><008201c90632$136223a0$3a266ae0$@net>
	<48B1E206.2030006@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <011f01c90691$89ae83f0$6601a8c0@Dell>

Team.
 Jetnuts are a nice bit of kit and a recommended application would be to use
them on the lower four studs that hold the carbs to the inlet manifold. They
allow a smaller spanner or even a socket to be used underneath those HD8's.
It make s a big difference, especially for you LHD guys where the steering
column adds to the problems.

First recommended on this list a couple of years ago.

I wouldn't use them, or any steel nut, anywhere on the exhaust side -
guaranteed to weld themselves solid.
 _______________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
   (______     \__1957-BN4 x 2__/    _______)
          (______www.nfahc.co.uk____)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+alan.bromfield=virgin.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+alan.bromfield=virgin.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 11:35 PM
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake Nuts

Anybody tried these on the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange studs?


bs

John Sims wrote:

From britcrs at gmail.com  Mon Aug 25 09:03:31 2008
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 08:03:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Chassis Number Plate
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0808250803r6cf36d13na34bf53efd141f88@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a source for a blank Chassis Number Plate as used on an
early BN1? It's about 3" X 3/4". I can e-mail a picture if it helps.
TIA
Marv James

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 25 10:16:51 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:16:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tire Vibration
In-Reply-To: <BAY139-W2338D7090FBE812F1CE96CB3640@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY139-W2338D7090FBE812F1CE96CB3640@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E6D5E052-FE1D-4E26-99DD-0BF3C6869A6F@sbcglobal.net>

  	There is a DOT date on the tire that shows the age of your tire.  
It is a Oval stamp with 3 or 4 numbers inside of it. If there are 3  
numbers the tire was made in the 90s If there are 4 numbers it was  
made in the 2000s

456    would be the 45th week of 1996

4506    would be the 45th week of 2006

We have a article coming out in the Healey Marque soon on this






David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 24, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Kenny J wrote:

> Hey List,
>
> Thanks for the quick responses to my vibration problem.  I jacked  
> up the car
> and pulled off the front tires.  I found a bulge on one of the inner
> sidewalls.  The tires are pretty old but look new.  Looks like I  
> should
> replace the tires.  I have the Michelin XZX's (165/15). Any  
> suggestions for a
> tire for the narrower 48 spoke wheels? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> _________________________________________________________________
> Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger? 
> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
> o_082008
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From INSIDEDIM at aol.com  Mon Aug 25 12:42:40 2008
From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:42:40 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] choke pull travel on a BJ8
Message-ID: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>

Dear members:
 
Would someone please measure the distance that the BJ8 choke knob travels  
when it's in the pulled out position?
 
Thanks in advance,
Bill
# 29298



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Aug 25 12:45:16 2008
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:45:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] choke pull travel on a BJ8
In-Reply-To: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>
References: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>
Message-ID: <400E6712-B080-4AF7-A429-EA0ED33E69BB@gmail.com>

Just happen to be in he garage working on the BJ8. :-)

2.5 inches from dash to end of knob.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Aug 25, 2008, at 2:42 PM, INSIDEDIM at aol.com wrote:

> Dear members:
>
> Would someone please measure the distance that the BJ8 choke knob  
> travels
> when it's in the pulled out position?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill
> # 29298
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find  
> your travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 25 17:12:05 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:12:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Choke , manual operation
In-Reply-To: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>
Message-ID: <582163.52825.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Pull it out till it's stiff then pull some more .. Norman Nock 
See Chatter Dec. 1998  OR my Tach Talk book page 195  " operating a manual choke "

--- On Mon, 8/25/08, INSIDEDIM at aol.com <INSIDEDIM at aol.com> wrote:

> From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com <INSIDEDIM at aol.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] choke pull travel on a BJ8
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 11:42 AM
> Dear members:
>  
> Would someone please measure the distance that the BJ8
> choke knob travels  
> when it's in the pulled out position?
>  
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill
> # 29298
> 
> 
> 
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you
> want to go. Find your travel 
> deal here.      
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 25 17:13:45 2008
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:13:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey related---MGC Roadster Available
Message-ID: <BLU117-W4171608E91FC6C6C3AB485BF670@phx.gbl>

I have a friend in Stamford, CT with an interesting 1969 MG "C" roadster
available.  Recent blue paint, stock 6 cylinder engine, automatic
transmission, etc.

I have no interest, just helping a buddy whom I visited last weekend and saw
it in his garage under cover. It started easily and ran well. I can send
photos off line if interested or contact directly:

coryparker1 at aol.com

Thanks
Richard of KY
1960 BN7 #440
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Aug 25 17:17:38 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:17:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke , manual operation
In-Reply-To: <582163.52825.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>
	<582163.52825.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <010301c90708$c428c9b0$4c7a5d10$@net>

Hey, no porn on the Healey List

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Norman Nock
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:12 PM
To: INSIDEDIM at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Choke , manual operation

Pull it out till it's stiff then pull some more .. Norman Nock 
See Chatter Dec. 1998  OR my Tach Talk book page 195  " operating a manual
choke "

--- On Mon, 8/25/08, INSIDEDIM at aol.com <INSIDEDIM at aol.com> wrote:

From djg at gavinassociates.com  Mon Aug 25 18:10:32 2008
From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:10:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] trunk/boot tools
Message-ID: <001301c90710$2815ac70$78410550$@com>

Where can I find the proper tools such as jack, etc., for my BJ7? Any
suggestions would be most appreciated. This list continues to be THE most
precious resource and, once again, thanks for your efforts. 

 

Dennis Gavin 

Sudbury, MA.

63 BJ7

63 E type

From pennell at cox.net  Mon Aug 25 18:19:50 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:19:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hair and nails - not Healey
Message-ID: <20080825201950.364DY.368250.imail@eastrmwml32>

Hello Listers,

As I age I begin to notice strange phenonmena.  Just the other day I formed my latest aha.  If you fart in the river it still stinks.

But I need confirmation on one which I have been pondering for several years and I could use the experience and wisdom of the list.  Does hair in the wrong places, body hair, and nails (both toe and finger) grow faster as one ages?  Is there a treatment for this?

Keith Pennell

From ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 25 18:54:09 2008
From: ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net (Ron Huseman)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:54:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII garage kept
Message-ID: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>

http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/810679252.html

For those who are interested, there is a BJ8 for sale here in my home town
of South Bend, Indiana, USA. I have no knowledge of this car, but it sure
looks clean and straight for the price.

Ron Huseman
BJ7 

From theswed at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 25 19:02:03 2008
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 18:02:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII garage kept
In-Reply-To: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W217A931CB1CCF3A7CBC9ACB3660@phx.gbl>

That car was listed in SF Bay Area, Sacramento, and LA a few days ago.  It has
been since taken off Craigslist out here. Looks like a scam.

Kenny

> From: ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 25
Aug 2008 20:54:09 -0400> Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII
garage kept> > http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/810679252.html> > For those
who are interested, there is a BJ8 for sale here in my home town> of South
Bend, Indiana, USA. I have no knowledge of this car, but it sure> looks clean
and straight for the price.> > Ron Huseman> BJ7 >
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
theswed at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger.  Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_yaho
o_082008

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Aug 25 19:21:54 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:21:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hair and nails - not Healey
In-Reply-To: <20080825201950.364DY.368250.imail@eastrmwml32>
References: <20080825201950.364DY.368250.imail@eastrmwml32>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808251821g3ae2a9fes54440f36bab986c3@mail.gmail.com>

Keith -

Unfortunately, no, as this 80 year old Indonesian man will show what you
have to look forward to:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DStwXsmZ3OE

It'll be hard for you to drive your Healey with your root feet when you hit
70 years old.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 8:19 AM, <pennell at cox.net> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> As I age I begin to notice strange phenonmena.  Just the other day I formed
> my latest aha.  If you fart in the river it still stinks.
>
> But I need confirmation on one which I have been pondering for several
> years and I could use the experience and wisdom of the list.  Does hair in
> the wrong places, body hair, and nails (both toe and finger) grow faster as
> one ages?  Is there a treatment for this?
>
> Keith Pennell

From pennell at cox.net  Mon Aug 25 19:49:38 2008
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:49:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil filter cartridge for sale
Message-ID: <20080825214938.KE8QD.370001.imail@eastrmwml32>

Listers,

I have an paper oil filter cartridge for sale.  Box says for 100, 100/6 and 3000 and other cars.  GUD brand # GP236 made in England.  Sold by Bap Geon I don't know when.  With squared O rings.

$5 plus shipping from 23602

First taker wins

Keith Pennell

From ghess4 at cox.net  Mon Aug 25 20:18:06 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:18:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
In-Reply-To: <000101c90646$c954e030$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
References: <c00.3fa8a69b.35df8b23@aol.com>
	<F859B112E890480DBBE574826FCD2580@GalePC>
	<000101c90646$c954e030$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>
Message-ID: <695CA1B4C36546CC92E90FF073115CEF@GalePC>

Jerry, I need your address to send you the info on the trunk block of wood 
location.  I don't have measurements. Just a template that I made over the 
inner fender of my BJ8.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net>
To: "Ghess4" <ghess4 at cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Aug 25 20:36:52 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:36:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke , manual operation
In-Reply-To: <582163.52825.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <c61.33ccb26a.35e45720@aol.com>
	<582163.52825.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W808FC43EA3FD0AC4AA652AD660@phx.gbl>

I've got to admit, that answer really opens up worlds of thoughts.
Bill
BJ7



> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:12:05 -0700> From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net> To:
INSIDEDIM at aol.com> CC: healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Choke ,
manual operation> > Pull it out till it's stiff then pull some more .. Norman
Nock > See Chatter Dec. 1998 OR my Tach Talk book page 195 " operating a
manual choke "> > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, INSIDEDIM at aol.com <INSIDEDIM at aol.com>
wrote:> > > From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com <INSIDEDIM at aol.com>> > Subject: [Healeys]
choke pull travel on a BJ8> > To: healeys at autox.team.net> > Date: Monday,
August 25, 2008, 11:42 AM> > Dear members:> > > > Would someone please measure
the distance that the BJ8> > choke knob travels > > when it's in the pulled
out position?> > > > Thanks in advance,> > Bill> > # 29298> > > > > > > >
**************It's only a deal if it's where you> > want to go. Find your
travel > > deal here. > >
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)> >
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > > Healeys at autox.team.net> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > > > You are subscribed as
sjnnock at sbcglobal.net> > > > http://www.team.net/archive>
_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as
insptwo at msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Aug 25 21:08:39 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:08:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII garage kept
In-Reply-To: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
Message-ID: <003901c90729$09e70b40$1db521c0$@rr.com>

I doubt that, as claimed in the ad, there is a BMIHT certificate that says
there were only 32 black cars with red interior produced in 1967.  Red was
the standard color of trim for black cars, and I already have a record of 30
original black cars in the BJ8 registry that were built in calendar year
1967.  There had to have been many more than what I have a record of.  I
have seen this car for sale on eBay, I believe, and I also think this "sale"
is a scam. No VIN is given, but interestingly those few sellers of BJ8s on
eBay who are reluctant to divulge the VIN of their car claim it's to foil
scammers.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron
Huseman
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 5:54 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII garage kept

http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/810679252.html

For those who are interested, there is a BJ8 for sale here in my home town
of South Bend, Indiana, USA. I have no knowledge of this car, but it sure
looks clean and straight for the price.

Ron Huseman
BJ7 
_______________________________________________

From joemulqueen at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 25 21:33:29 2008
From: joemulqueen at yahoo.com (joe mulqueen)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 20:33:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] re. tires
Message-ID: <300585.39854.qm@web82206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well.....there's also the Signet 165/80-15R tire
available through Big O Tire Store.  All specs the sam
but has its own look.  I have .pdf of their vintage
series if anyone is interested.
Joe
'60 BT7 project
'56 MGA


........

Kenny,
The best 165R15 tire is the Kumho Power Star 758.  The
tire has a UTQG 
rating of 400 AB and a speed rating of T (118MPH). 
These rating a
 better 
than almost any other 165R18 tire.  And the best part
is Tire Rack has
 them 
for $40 plus shipping.  Get them from Tire Rack and
then have your wire
 
wheel guy mount and balance them - don't have it done
at a regular tire
 
dealer.  The only down side of the Kumho is it isn't
the graphics
 aren't 
vintage looking.

From papashado at comcast.net  Mon Aug 25 21:35:51 2008
From: papashado at comcast.net (James Routt)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:35:51 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings
Message-ID: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>

Anyone out there know of a source for the rubber O ring behind the
speedometer and oil/temp gauge. If so, please contact off list. Thanks in
advance.

 

Jim

60 BN7

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Aug 26 00:14:49 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 08:14:49 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings
In-Reply-To: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAOFwitrtvatLlzcanye/DroBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm

PURVEYOR  of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges
                         Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs
                         High-tech sound deadening materials
                       .........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of James Routt
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings

Anyone out there know of a source for the rubber O ring behind the
speedometer and oil/temp gauge. If so, please contact off list. Thanks in
advance.

 

Jim

60 BN7

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Aug 26 04:33:56 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:33:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <4FC45DF01B484D0A9929FC9C5FD38F85@company92305fb>

Have a look at:-

http://www.healeyendurance.com/

where the new endurance car and its attempt on the original record is shown.

Despite having a site it seems to have been quite a well kept secret. From
me, at least!

Simon

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 26 04:44:39 2008
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 10:44:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] enduranceattempt
In-Reply-To: <4FC45DF01B484D0A9929FC9C5FD38F85@company92305fb>
References: <4FC45DF01B484D0A9929FC9C5FD38F85@company92305fb>
Message-ID: <BLU107-W6EAC2364DB909DC049C4AB3660@phx.gbl>

See Healey Marque, July '08
GaryB

> From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:33:56 +0100
> Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
>
> Have a look at:-
>
> http://www.healeyendurance.com/
>
> where the new endurance car and its attempt on the original record is
shown.
>
> Despite having a site it seems to have been quite a well kept secret. From
> me, at least!
>
> Simon
> __

_________________________________________________________________
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 26 04:53:09 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:53:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
Message-ID: <27677.6449.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

are they still in business

From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com  Tue Aug 26 08:28:16 2008
From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:28:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Purchase Opportunity for $10,000!
Message-ID: <000001c90787$fb478ec0$f1d6ac40$@com>

Fellow Healeyoids,

 

I have the opportunity to purchase my buddy Karl's 1960 Mk I Healey.  He has
lost interest and is overwhelmed with his new job and wants to spend more
time with his kids.  I helped him find the car in 2001 when we hauled it out
of southern Iowa for $500.  The car was sitting for years on it's frame
rails in an apple orchard.  The acid from the apples assisted in eating away
at the frame.  I guess that an apple a day won't keep the Healey doctor
away.

 

Anyway, he wants $10,000 for it.  It is in the latter stages of restoration.

It has new frame rails with 1/8" wall steel.   All of the rust has been
removed and new panels, (floors, hinge pillars, sills, rockers, footboxes,
etc) installed where needed.  Rebuilt engine, gearbox and overdrive.
Rebuilt brakes and suspension.  New tires, rebuild gauges.

It needs the following:

Complete interior

New hoses

Wiring harness

Exhaust system

New wheels

All chrome news to be redone

Aluminum trim needs refinishing

Side curtains redone

Panels need aligning and bodywork need to be done.

 

So, basically, except for the body panel alignment, which I know from
experience can be a SUPER bitch to accomplish, the car has had most of the
hard work done.  The frame and super structure are painted Healey blue.  The
wife will surely not be happy with another car.  But I will take her on a
vacation somewhere nice and let her buy some clothes.  So, maybe I should
add another $1000 or 2000 to the price of the car.

 

 I think that with another $10,000-12,000 I can have the car finished and a
nice driver.  I can do it for even less if I do all of the bodywork by
myself.  What do you guys think?  Is it a good deal?   Fair deal?  Let me
know what you think.  I really want a roadster to round out my Healey
collection.  Thanks!

 

Randy

 

Healey Archaeologist

 

63 BJ7

66 Cobra replica

06 Mini Cooper S

Hoping to get a BT7

Looking at a 66 Sunbeam Tiger too.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 26 08:51:21 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:51:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Purchase Opportunity for $10,000!
In-Reply-To: <000001c90787$fb478ec0$f1d6ac40$@com>
References: <000001c90787$fb478ec0$f1d6ac40$@com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808260751w1f10fbf3u4983523ffcd956d1@mail.gmail.com>

Randy -

Since you know the car and what's been done to it, and what it still needs,
I'd say go for it.  If you buy any standard unknown later it'll always come
with big question marks.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 10:28 PM, Randy Dickson <
rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com> wrote:

> Fellow Healeyoids,
>
>
>
> I have the opportunity to purchase my buddy Karl's 1960 Mk I Healey.  He
> has
> lost interest and is overwhelmed with his new job and wants to spend more
> time with his kids.  I helped him find the car in 2001 when we hauled it
> out
> of southern Iowa for $500.  The car was sitting for years on it's frame
> rails in an apple orchard.  The acid from the apples assisted in eating
> away
> at the frame.  I guess that an apple a day won't keep the Healey doctor
> away.
>
>
>
> Anyway, he wants $10,000 for it.  It is in the latter stages of
> restoration.
>
> It has new frame rails with 1/8" wall steel.   All of the rust has been
> removed and new panels, (floors, hinge pillars, sills, rockers, footboxes,
> etc) installed where needed.  Rebuilt engine, gearbox and overdrive.
> Rebuilt brakes and suspension.  New tires, rebuild gauges.
>
> It needs the following:
>
> Complete interior
>
> New hoses
>
> Wiring harness
>
> Exhaust system
>
> New wheels
>
> All chrome news to be redone
>
> Aluminum trim needs refinishing
>
> Side curtains redone
>
> Panels need aligning and bodywork need to be done.
>
>
>
> So, basically, except for the body panel alignment, which I know from
> experience can be a SUPER bitch to accomplish, the car has had most of the
> hard work done.  The frame and super structure are painted Healey blue.
>  The
> wife will surely not be happy with another car.  But I will take her on a
> vacation somewhere nice and let her buy some clothes.  So, maybe I should
> add another $1000 or 2000 to the price of the car.
>
>
>
>  I think that with another $10,000-12,000 I can have the car finished and a
> nice driver.  I can do it for even less if I do all of the bodywork by
> myself.  What do you guys think?  Is it a good deal?   Fair deal?  Let me
> know what you think.  I really want a roadster to round out my Healey
> collection.  Thanks!
>
>
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> Healey Archaeologist
>
>
>
> 63 BJ7
>
> 66 Cobra replica
>
> 06 Mini Cooper S
>
> Hoping to get a BT7
>
> Looking at a 66 Sunbeam Tiger too.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Aug 26 10:33:03 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 10:33:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Purchase Opportunity for $10,000!
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808260751w1f10fbf3u4983523ffcd956d1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNEENFCNAA.shop@justbrits.com>

<<Since you know the car and what's been done to it, and what it still
needs, I'd say go for it.  If you buy any standard unknown later it'll
always come with big question marks.>>

I agree with Alan<G>, Randy!!

Sounds like a GREAT find!!

Ed

From samncyna at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 09:55:31 2008
From: samncyna at comcast.net (Sam Marble)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:55:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey on South Bend Craigslist
Message-ID: <CA27C7D608B645DA8F01FF443677DC31@Homeoffice>

Ron and list:

The exact same car is listed on the Atlanta Craigslist so it is evidently a
scam.

Sam


http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/810679252.html

For those who are interested, there is a BJ8 for sale here in my home town
of South Bend, Indiana, USA. I have no knowledge of this car, but it sure
looks clean and straight for the price.

Ron Huseman
BJ7

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 26 11:55:19 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 10:55:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings
In-Reply-To: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
Message-ID: <E85EFF0A-72DA-46C3-A7AC-C8C3FFE84B72@sbcglobal.net>

We have these available.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 25, 2008, at 8:35 PM, James Routt wrote:

> Anyone out there know of a source for the rubber O ring behind the
> speedometer and oil/temp gauge. If so, please contact off list.  
> Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Tue Aug 26 12:01:22 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:01:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <4FC45DF01B484D0A9929FC9C5FD38F85@company92305fb>
References: <4FC45DF01B484D0A9929FC9C5FD38F85@company92305fb>
Message-ID: <TABcYPCyTEtIFwQn@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Simon

If you look more closely you will see the sad news below


"It has been decided to suspend the attempt until a more suitable venue 
can been found which may mean travelling outside the UK. This is a grave 
disappointment to the team who want to make the attempt in 2008 but with 
the British weather and FIA time keepers availability, this might not be 
achievable."

Regards

>Have a look at:-
>
>http://www.healeyendurance.com/
>
>where the new endurance car and its attempt on the original record is shown.
>
>Despite having a site it seems to have been quite a well kept secret. From
>me, at least!
>
>Simon

-- 
John Harper

From ghess4 at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 12:49:50 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 11:49:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form
Message-ID: <937CB6CFB38144169EB3D78820D08172@GalePC>

I would like to build a supply of  fasteners oriented to the BJ8 if that makes
any major difference.  Can anyone suggest a supplier particularly the lowest
priced one?
Gale Hess

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Aug 26 13:50:15 2008
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:50:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] trunk/boot tools
In-Reply-To: <001301c90710$2815ac70$78410550$@com>
Message-ID: <002101c907b4$f5c536a0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>

Dennis:
I see ads in the back of at least one of the monthly Austin Healey magazines
for original tools and bags.  I am looking for a Simmons hammer with label
if you find one.
Dan


 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Dennis Gavin
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] trunk/boot tools

Where can I find the proper tools such as jack, etc., for my BJ7? Any
suggestions would be most appreciated. This list continues to be THE most
precious resource and, once again, thanks for your efforts. 

 

Dennis Gavin 

Sudbury, MA.

63 BJ7

63 E type
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Aug 26 14:18:39 2008
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:18:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
In-Reply-To: <27677.6449.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002901c907b8$edc4e2d0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>

Dear john doe:
I talked with Gary about a year back and he told me he was tired of the
business.  I think was trying to sell.
Dan 



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of john doe
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:53 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill

are they still in business
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From ghess4 at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 15:35:30 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:35:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
In-Reply-To: <002901c907b8$edc4e2d0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>
References: <002901c907b8$edc4e2d0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <2B2E9557F8B84AE9A97485A1CC7B5243@GalePC>

I talked with Gary  on 3/20/08 and he said that he was one hour from going 
out the door for the last time.  Sad to see a business go and hope he is 
doing well.
Gale Hess
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner-associates.com>
To: <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] hemphill


> Dear john doe:
> I talked with Gary about a year back and he told me he was tired of the
> business.  I think was trying to sell.
> Dan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of john doe
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:53 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
>
> are they still in business
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ghess4 at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 15:57:36 2008
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:57:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
Message-ID: <082620082157.17493.48B47C5000058A520000445522073007930A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

I remember talking to him back in 2002 and he said he maybe had 1 year left in him.  Surprised he lasted this long.


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Ghess4" <ghess4 at cox.net>
> I talked with Gary  on 3/20/08 and he said that he was one hour from going 
> out the door for the last time.  Sad to see a business go and hope he is 
> doing well.
> Gale Hess
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner-associates.com>
> To: <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 1:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] hemphill
> 
> 
> > Dear john doe:
> > I talked with Gary about a year back and he told me he was tired of the
> > business.  I think was trying to sell.
> > Dan

From kilo2mit at gmail.com  Tue Aug 26 15:59:56 2008
From: kilo2mit at gmail.com (Jeffrey Steinberg)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 17:59:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Experience with "Kool mat" (www.koolmat.com)
Message-ID: <6221e4f80808261459k754fd42dr53e4ecf0b562741b@mail.gmail.com>

In my quest to get the temperature by my right foot to a reasonable
level, I discovered www.koolmat.com. They have a precut kit for the
3000 (I have a 64 BJ8).  Anyone have any experience with the kit.  Was
installation straight forward?  Did it reduce the cockpit heat level?

I was going to line the transmission tunnel and potentially the
firewall but I am not sure I want the car to not look stock. Carpeting
will cover up the tranny but not the firewall.

Thoughts/Comments?

(I have already sealed all holes in the firewall, checked the gaskets
and turned off the hot water going to the heater core.)

Thanks as always.

--Jeffrey

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 16:11:04 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 18:11:04 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Leo Long (Victoria British)
Message-ID: <ca7.328f65c7.35e5d978@aol.com>

Some of you may have know Leo Long, owner of Victoria British. From the
Kansas City Star:     Leo William Long, 67, of Lenexa KS passed away  Tuesday,
August 19, 2008, at his home. Private funeral services were held  at Mount
Moriah
& Freeman Funeral Home. He was born May 6, 1941. He  was raised by his
maternal uncle and aunt, Lester and Loretta Long. A long  time area resident,
he
attended Hale Cook Elementary and Southwest High  school. As a Boy Scout, Leo
earned his Eagle Scout, God and Country. He  enlisted in the Marine Corps in
1961
and was honorably discharged in 1967.  He completed his undergraduate studies
at the University of Kansas in  1968, with a Bachelor of Science, Business
Administration. From the early  60's through 1975 he worked as a mechanical
engineer for two firms in the  Kansas City area becoming a chief engineer.
Always
involved with cars as a  hobby, he went into business selling car parts in
1975. Located at 18th  & Oak, in Kansas City, this business went broke in 1979
and he lost  everything. He started over in 1981b&his present business Long
Motor
 Corporation, dba. Victoria British Ltd., LMC Truck and Black Dragon. Leo
served on many boards of directors, including Brotherhood Bank, Citizens
Bank,
Derrick Thomas 3rd & Long Foundation, El Centro Community  Centers, Guadalupe
Community Centers and the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce.  He was also involved
in numerous civic endeavors, including the Asian  American Chamber of
Commerce. He sponsored Boy Scout Troop #106 on the  city's Westside, the
Jarrette
Aycock Society KCRM, and the Silver Gloves  National Championships. He funded
the
Leo William Long Graduate  Scholarship Program for 6 years, donated the
funding for the Fort Long  Campsite at the H. Roe Bartle Boy Scout
Reservation, and
paid for the  construction of the Leo William Long Sports Center in
Kanchanaburi,  Thailand - a country he visited regularly in his business
travels - to
provide recreational facilities for underprivileged school children. He
received the Whitney M. Young Jr. Service Award from the Boy Scouts of
America, In
addition, he assisted many private individuals & employees  in the greater KC
area when they encountered hard times or needed a  helping hand. Other civic
awards & citations he received are too  numerous to list. Leo recently
completed a company history. In his own  words, "I have turned my dreams into
an
entrepreneurial success. I am only  as strong as my people and as successful
as my
customers continued  satisfaction. I am extremely proud of what has been
created and accept  that growth is elemental to the future of LMC."  Leo
William
Long was  honest and ethical. His success was achieved the old fashioned way:
he
 earned it. He is survived by his wife Janet, daughter Morgan Stanton and
granddaughter Sierra  Stanton.




**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 26 16:16:12 2008
From: healey3000bn7 at yahoo.com (Carlos Cruz)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Experience with "Kool mat" (www.koolmat.com)
In-Reply-To: <6221e4f80808261459k754fd42dr53e4ecf0b562741b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <462587.66780.qm@web50005.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Jeffrey,
   
  Maybe I'm out of the norm here, but in the 10 years I've owned my car, no one - absolutely no one but me has ever stuck there head in my foot well and said, "car looks great!  What the hell is that on your fire wall"?
   
  Unless you plan to have Concours judges hanging around with nothing better to do... then again if you did you wouldn't be asking about KoolMat correct?  I say don't worry about it - cool down the cock pit and make it comfortable for you and your navigator.
   
  Does that count as "thoughts and comments"?
   
  Cheers & good luck,
  Carlos
   
  

Jeffrey Steinberg <kilo2mit at gmail.com> wrote:
  In my quest to get the temperature by my right foot to a reasonable
level, I discovered www.koolmat.com. They have a precut kit for the
3000 (I have a 64 BJ8). Anyone have any experience with the kit. Was
installation straight forward? Did it reduce the cockpit heat level?

I was going to line the transmission tunnel and potentially the
firewall but I am not sure I want the car to not look stock. Carpeting
will cover up the tranny but not the firewall.

Thoughts/Comments?

(I have already sealed all holes in the firewall, checked the gaskets
and turned off the hot water going to the heater core.)

Thanks as always.

--Jeffrey

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 26 16:32:24 2008
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:32:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Experience with "Kool mat" (www.koolmat.com)
Message-ID: <182878.63040.qm@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jeffrey,
I purchased the Koolmat BJ8 kit a little over a year ago. I must have
been the first purchaser. The kit was laid out for a right hand drive car and
did not come with apiece for the transmission tunnel. 
After figuring out the
right hand drive switch and talking to the Koolmat folks, everything went
pretty good. I supplied a pattern for the tunnel that is probably what you
will get. The pattern was hard to layout and still takes a little fiddling to
get it to lay flat.
I have not completed the BJ8 but am statisfied witht  the
Koolmat as it is now 
partially installed. No experience with how well it will
insalate, but with a good installation and sealiong the seams it should do a
very good job. 
Bob



----- Original Message ----
From: Jeffrey Steinberg
<kilo2mit at gmail.com>
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008
4:59:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Experience with "Kool mat" (www.koolmat.com)

In
my quest to get the temperature by my right foot to a reasonable
level, I
discovered www.koolmat.com. They have a precut kit for the
3000 (I have a 64
BJ8).  Anyone have any experience with the kit.  Was
installation straight
forward?  Did it reduce the cockpit heat level?

I was going to line the
transmission tunnel and potentially the
firewall but I am not sure I want the
car to not look stock. Carpeting
will cover up the tranny but not the
firewall.

Thoughts/Comments?

(I have already sealed all holes in the
firewall, checked the gaskets
and turned off the hot water going to the heater
core.)

Thanks as always.

--Jeffrey
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as
blkbt7 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Aug 26 18:36:28 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:36:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings
In-Reply-To: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl>

Jim,

I got some from Mike Bruce. Don't know if he has any left.

Bill
----------------------------------------
> From: papashado at comcast.net
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:35:51 -0600
> Subject: [Healeys] Instrument gauge O rings
>
> Anyone out there know of a source for the rubber O ring behind the
> speedometer and oil/temp gauge. If so, please contact off list. Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spartan0199 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 26 19:16:41 2008
From: spartan0199 at hotmail.com (Justin Laborde)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:16:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl>
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
	<BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>

http://tinyurl.com/5r7dqw
or
http://www.nexentireusa.com/tire_detail.asp?pid=102

Curious if anyone has tried these tires.  Is so any comments?

Nexen SB802

Thanks,
Justin Ypsilanti, MI
_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Aug 26 19:26:49 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 18:26:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
In-Reply-To: <002901c907b8$edc4e2d0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>
References: <002901c907b8$edc4e2d0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>
Message-ID: <48B4AD59.2040708@comcast.net>

He told me that about 7 years ago ;)  


bs


Dan Stromquist wrote:
> Dear john doe:
> I talked with Gary about a year back and he told me he was tired of the
> business.  I think was trying to sell.
> Dan 
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of john doe
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:53 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
>
> are they still in business
>
>
>   


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 26 19:34:40 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:34:40 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41>
	<BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl>
	<BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808261834i39639d81j8ef007e3acca50eb@mail.gmail.com>

Justin -

It's a Korean company, so generally I'd say the quality is probably decent
enough.  Having spent time working in Korea, they tend to make pretty good
stuff all around these days, some say even better than the Japanese.  The
Kumho tire is Korean also, and so far no complaints on this list about them.

Best,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Justin Laborde <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>wrote:

> http://tinyurl.com/5r7dqw
> or
> http://www.nexentireusa.com/tire_detail.asp?pid=102
>
> Curious if anyone has tried these tires.  Is so any comments?
>
> Nexen SB802
>
> Thanks,
> Justin Ypsilanti, MI
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
> _Gallery_082008<http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo_Gallery_082008>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Aug 26 20:11:28 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:11:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
In-Reply-To: <48B4FCAE.6090800@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080827021111.A9787187653@autox.team.net>

Answer from the scammer??

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: James Carlton [mailto:carltonj75 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:05 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: Re:1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Hello,

Sorry for the late response, but because I work in the US army  it's 
very hard for me to reply faster.I wanted to let you know that my *1967 
Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII*  is still available.
If you are interested in buying my 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII  
you can view more photos and also the description here: 
http://james-carlton.8k.com/Description.html
I want to sell my car for $25,000.
The condition of the car it's perfect.Has been always kept in garage and 
from you can see in the pictures it's a showroom car.
The title of the car it's clear under my name.
Now i am located in Olympia,Wa, and the car is with me but if you want i 
can ship it for free anywhere in USA.
As payment method we can use eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection Program as 
i am an old member of them. Please let me know if you have any questions 
and if you are interested in buying my car.

Thank you,
James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
373rd TRS/Det. 11
DSN 271-5791

From shop at justbrits.com  Tue Aug 26 21:56:37 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:56:37 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNCECGCOAA.shop@justbrits.com>

Interesting, Justin (How's Ypsi these days<G>?)

<<Curious if anyone has tried these tires.>>

No, but the folks I have been using since SP-4 were a 'new' thing are Listed
as an installer.

Lemme know if you would like me to call Mike tomorrow and see what his
feedback might be.

Not too bad of a picture too<G>!!

Ed
Please visit my site at:	www.justbrits.com

From bj7healey at gto.net  Tue Aug 26 21:00:05 2008
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Rob)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 23:00:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41><BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl>
	<BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7DC08E4990F842EFB0FB91C9D2E15C23@acer684c9a655d>

I purchased these tires just 3 weeks ago for the front and installed myself. 
I intended on getting them balanced after a couple of weeks but after 
driving them at about 70 MPH and no shake I did not even get them balanced. 
We went to Summit in Quebec last weekend about 600 miles each way and they 
ran great. I have Kuhmo tires on the back with the same results. The Kuhmos 
were not available so that is why I went to the Nexen's.
                       Bob Slater      1963 BJ7

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:16 PM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen

> http://tinyurl.com/5r7dqw
> or
> http://www.nexentireusa.com/tire_detail.asp?pid=102
>
> Curious if anyone has tried these tires.  Is so any comments?
>
> Nexen SB802
>
> Thanks,
> Justin Ypsilanti, MI
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
> _Gallery_082008
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as bj7healey at gto.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ghess4 at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 21:13:05 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:13:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hemphill
Message-ID: <3E370A74260745AA9851D98EAF8D365F@GalePC>

Steve.....sorry to hear of your problem with the hubs from Hemphill.  My only
contact with him involved several phone calls requesting a sponsorship for the
2008 Conclave.  He didn't sponsor.  You may be right that he was planning to
go out of business when he talked to you.  I have always carried the feeling
with me that I would go out on top as a former Marine, business man and life
in general and it is indeed sad to hear stories of one who may have tarnished
his past in the closing years.

Nice to see you at Conclave, however brief and glad that you got things fixed
and had a good trip home I trust.

Gale Hess

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Aug 26 21:21:57 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:21:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
In-Reply-To: <20080827021111.A9787187653@autox.team.net>
References: <48B4FCAE.6090800@gmail.com>
	<20080827021111.A9787187653@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005601c907f4$0fea0760$2fbe1620$@rr.com>

Dave, ask him to send you a copy of the BMIHT certificate that says there
were only 32 black cars produced in 1967.  
Wonder why he gives a DSN number, which is only accessible from a government
telephone system?


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Porter
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 7:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Answer from the scammer??

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: James Carlton [mailto:carltonj75 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:05 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: Re:1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Hello,

Sorry for the late response, but because I work in the US army  it's 
very hard for me to reply faster.I wanted to let you know that my *1967 
Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII*  is still available.
If you are interested in buying my 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII  
you can view more photos and also the description here: 
http://james-carlton.8k.com/Description.html
I want to sell my car for $25,000.

Thank you,
James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
373rd TRS/Det. 11
DSN 271-5791
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com

http://www.team.net/archive

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.9/1635 - Release Date: 8/26/2008
7:29 AM

From ghess4 at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 21:29:10 2008
From: ghess4 at cox.net (Ghess4)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:29:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form
In-Reply-To: <20080827001110.OVOG6482.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
References: <20080827001110.OVOG6482.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
Message-ID: <30826863245D4AF7B6E6980D03887ABB@GalePC>

Hello Udo,
Thanks for the info on Barnes Distribution.  I'll follow up with them.  One 
reason for the request is that I have disassembled by BJ8 and in a couple of 
weeks it will head up to Jule Enterprises for a new frame.  As you know 
there are a heck of a lot of fasteners ie. bolts, nuts, washers and screws 
to go back in when I start to reassemble. As I have done with aircraft 
building and rebuilding I found it easier to have a supply of most fasteners 
rather than find I'm missing a single one and have to hold up things for an 
order.
Thanks again.
Gale
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "UDO PUTZKE" <MRJAJA at COX.NET>
To: "'Ghess4'" <ghess4 at cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form


> Hello Gale
> We use http://www.barnesdistribution.com
> We have a Business account with them, I don't know if there sell to the
> public.
>
>
> Udo Putzke
> Mrjaja at cox.net

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Aug 26 21:39:46 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 11:39:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form
In-Reply-To: <937CB6CFB38144169EB3D78820D08172@GalePC>
References: <937CB6CFB38144169EB3D78820D08172@GalePC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808262039l81373aen1726e409de03be84@mail.gmail.com>

Gale -

Namrick in the UK makes great UNF sets:

http://www.namrick.co.uk/default.asp

Also British Car Specialists sell smaller sets as well.  Both sell steel and
stainless steel sets.

Alan


On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 2:49 AM, Ghess4 <ghess4 at cox.net> wrote:

> I would like to build a supply of  fasteners oriented to the BJ8 if that
> makes
> any major difference.  Can anyone suggest a supplier particularly the
> lowest
> priced one?
> Gale Hess
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Tue Aug 26 21:56:17 2008
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (rudedoggg at earthlink.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:56:17 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
Message-ID: <23281775.1219809377803.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

DSN 271 prefix is Offutt AFB. I'll call him locally tomorrow.

JR (at Offutt)
-----Original Message-----
>From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
>Sent: Aug 26, 2008 10:21 PM
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
>
>Dave, ask him to send you a copy of the BMIHT certificate that says there
>were only 32 black cars produced in 1967.  
>Wonder why he gives a DSN number, which is only accessible from a government
>telephone system?
>
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
>Porter
>Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 7:11 PM
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
>
>Answer from the scammer??
>
>frogeye at porterscustom.com
> 
>Porter Customs
>Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
>505-352-1378
>1954 BN2
>Porter Custom Bicycles
>www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
>http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: James Carlton [mailto:carltonj75 at gmail.com] 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:05 AM
>To: undisclosed-recipients:
>Subject: Re:1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
>
>Hello,
>
>Sorry for the late response, but because I work in the US army  it's 
>very hard for me to reply faster.I wanted to let you know that my *1967 
>Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII*  is still available.
>If you are interested in buying my 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII  
>you can view more photos and also the description here: 
>http://james-carlton.8k.com/Description.html
>I want to sell my car for $25,000.
>
>Thank you,
>James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
>373rd TRS/Det. 11
>DSN 271-5791
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
>Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.9/1635 - Release Date: 8/26/2008
>7:29 AM
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>You are subscribed as rudedoggg at earthlink.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 22:25:59 2008
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:25:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
Message-ID: <c30.3d23bd08.35e63157@aol.com>

Answer from the scammer ...

but  because I work in the US army
works in the Army?
 

James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
 
And yet is a Tech Sergeant in the Air Force?
 
Very interesting and very believable for sure. I think I'll buy. In fact, I  
hear he has an island and a bridge for sale.
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1
 
 



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Aug 26 22:43:09 2008
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:43:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 2, Issue 543
Message-ID: <c75.381b7e24.35e6355d@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/26/08 7:14:30 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> 
> Sorry for the late response, but because I work in the US army
> 

Must be the only tech. sergeant, US Air Force, in the U.S. Army!

Good English, though, probably as he is an old member of them.
Cheers
Gary


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Aug 26 23:35:01 2008
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:35:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hperventilating Hyperlink
Message-ID: <B1EA5E929C5148CEB07E888D4CBFBE84@LeonardPC>

Courtesy of Autoweek magazine, July 21, 2008.  Motorheads in Baghdad.  Can a
Healey club be far behind?

http://tinyurl.com/6zk73c


(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From e-wilkins at cox.net  Tue Aug 26 23:40:58 2008
From: e-wilkins at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 22:40:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rally Vent question
Message-ID: <AF381106-B1CD-4428-BA8B-89AC3C983132@cox.net>

We've all seen the little vent sticking up in the center of the cowl  
(shroud) in front of the windsheld on the works cars.

Who know what it does under the skin? Is it hooked to any ducting or  
does it just suck air into the cabin? is there any open/closing  
mechanism or anything?

Thanks in advance...

Wilko
San Dego

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Aug 27 01:30:44 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:30:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill
In-Reply-To: <27677.6449.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAEWlSLB1k6FMivRL0ANI14cBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

john doe,

I did business with him end of July this year (via ebay). So far I seem to
have given the last ebay feedback (7/31/08) to him. His ebay-id is bighealey
(still valid) and email is bighealey(at)msn.com.

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+lists=brits-n-pieces.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of john doe
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:53 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] hemphill

are they still in business

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Aug 27 06:13:22 2008
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:13:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] leo long passing - victoria british
Message-ID: <9511116.60851219839202120.JavaMail.root@vms226.mailsrvcs.net>

i was doing healey parts business with leo in the late 70's.  nice guy. if memory serves me correctly, he went broke because his business was in a basement that flooded and he was uninsured for flood.
through the years he has always been an active supporter of TEXAS HEALEY ACTIVITIES.
thanks, gary, for bringing this matter to our attention.

JERRY WALL  BN6
ROWLETT, TX

From WWSCPO at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 06:28:36 2008
From: WWSCPO at aol.com (WWSCPO at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:28:36 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Block of wood in trunk??
Message-ID: <d1d.3137b1a8.35e6a274@aol.com>

I want to thank everyone who responded and to Gale Hess for sending the  
template. This Listserv is great !!
 
Bill Schumann



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 06:41:59 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:41:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rally Vent question
Message-ID: <c9e.378c3fb0.35e6a597@aol.com>

The original one I saw had a shallow pan (approx. 3/4" deep) below the  
shroud with two holes in the bottom of the pan. The holes were sized to accept  two 
90 degree rubber elbows which can direct the air towards the  driver & 
passenger. The elbows are the same as used on the defroster  ducting. Also, there 
were two small drain fittings in the bottom of the pan  to allow water to drain 
out of the pan. No damper or other means to close the  cowl scoop.
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 8/27/2008 12:41:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
e-wilkins at cox.net writes:

We've  all seen the little vent sticking up in the center of the cowl   
(shroud) in front of the windsheld on the works cars.

Who know what  it does under the skin? Is it hooked to any ducting or  
does it just  suck air into the cabin? is there any open/closing  
mechanism or  anything?

Thanks in advance...

Wilko
San  Dego
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  warthodson at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From todd.s.taylor at lmco.com  Wed Aug 27 06:43:53 2008
From: todd.s.taylor at lmco.com (Taylor, Todd S)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:43:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808262039l81373aen1726e409de03be84@mail.gmail.com>
References: <937CB6CFB38144169EB3D78820D08172@GalePC>
	<ff59076c0808262039l81373aen1726e409de03be84@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F56FBA314E8E5A41895F0DA8F6716A6D156E61A5@emss04m11.us.lmco.com>

Any one ever use these guys for nuts and bolts,
http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc

would be nice if there was a kit for healey's??
I just got my car back from Jules Entreprises, have to start the rebuild
after some outside body work.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+todd.s.taylor=lmco.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+todd.s.taylor=lmco.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 11:40 PM
To: Ghess4
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fasteners in bulk form

Gale -

Namrick in the UK makes great UNF sets:

http://www.namrick.co.uk/default.asp

Also British Car Specialists sell smaller sets as well.  Both sell steel
and
stainless steel sets.

Alan


On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 2:49 AM, Ghess4 <ghess4 at cox.net> wrote:

> I would like to build a supply of  fasteners oriented to the BJ8 if
that
> makes
> any major difference.  Can anyone suggest a supplier particularly the
> lowest
> priced one?
> Gale Hess
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor at lmco.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 06:46:03 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:46:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] glove box lock
Message-ID: <820057.15185.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone have one for a bj8 can't find mine after tear down

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 06:55:53 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:55:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Leo Long (Victoria British)
Message-ID: <bf1.37361cb6.35e6a8d9@aol.com>

I am sure Janet Long will continue to operate the business more or  less as 
it has in the past. She has been a long time employee/officer of the  company 
prior to her recent marriage to Leo. 
Gary Hodson   
 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2008 8:52:11 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
lapierrem at sbcglobal.net writes:

What is  to become of the  business?

Mark






**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Aug 27 07:01:11 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:01:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
Message-ID: <20080827130054.30D6E187682@autox.team.net>

OK guys, I've set the hook. And you lottery winners thought you had it so
good....
 Dave




To: Dave Porter
Subject: Re: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Hello again.

Here is how it works if you have never used eBay vehicle purchase 
protection program.
 You send me your full name and your shipping address so I can initiate 
the transaction on eBay.eBay contacts you with further details regarding 
the payment
 and shipping process.You submit the payment to eBay, eBay confirms the 
payment and asks me to release the shipment.I ship the car which should 
be at your
 door within the next 5 business days.You have a 7 days inspection 
period before you confirm the deal and eBay forwards the payment to me 
or you cancel the
 deal and you get your money back and return the vehicle free of charge.
 Basically ebay holds your money safe until you confirm that the car is 
what you have expected and you want to buy it. It is not a sight unseen 
deal.
 On the other hand I can ship the car knowing ebay has your money and 
you wont dissapear with my car.We are both covered.
 Sorry for the long emails I have tried to touch all bases.

Thank you,
James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
373rd TRS/Det. 11
DSN 271-5791


Dave Porter wrote:
> TSgt Carlton,
>  Great! Let's do this. I can send a certified check today. Where?
> Dave

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Wed Aug 27 07:46:38 2008
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 06:46:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price  $25,000
In-Reply-To: <20080827130054.30D6E187682@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C4DAA8CE.5E26%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I told him I live near Olympia and would come to get the car with cash.  He
said that was not possible because he could not leave the air base, he had
to ship it to me.

Michael Hartfield
Dave Porterfrogeye at porterscustom.com

> OK guys, I've set the hook. And you lottery winners thought you had it so
> good....
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To: Dave Porter
> Subject: Re: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
> 
> Hello again.
> 
> Here is how it works if you have never used eBay vehicle purchase
> protection program.
> You send me your full name and your shipping address so I can initiate
> the transaction on eBay.eBay contacts you with further details regarding
> the payment
> and shipping process.You submit the payment to eBay, eBay confirms the
> payment and asks me to release the shipment.I ship the car which should
> be at your
> door within the next 5 business days.You have a 7 days inspection
> period before you confirm the deal and eBay forwards the payment to me
> or you cancel the
> deal and you get your money back and return the vehicle free of charge.
> Basically ebay holds your money safe until you confirm that the car is
> what you have expected and you want to buy it. It is not a sight unseen
> deal.
> On the other hand I can ship the car knowing ebay has your money and
> you wont dissapear with my car.We are both covered.
> Sorry for the long emails I have tried to touch all bases.
> 
> Thank you,
> James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
> 373rd TRS/Det. 11
> DSN 271-5791
> 
> 
> Dave Porter wrote:
>> TSgt Carlton,
>>  Great! Let's do this. I can send a certified check today. Where?
>> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Aug 27 07:50:58 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 9:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price   $25, 000
Message-ID: <20080827135058.HVXV27873.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Typical AF reaction:)  Never let a Tsgt in the AF leave the Army base.:)

How else can we bait this clown?
> 
> From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
> Date: 2008/08/27 Wed AM 09:46:38 EDT
> To: Dave Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>,  <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price  $25,000
> 
> I told him I live near Olympia and would come to get the car with cash.  He
> said that was not possible because he could not leave the air base, he had
> to ship it to me.
> 
> Michael Hartfield
> Dave Porterfrogeye at porterscustom.com
> 
> > OK guys, I've set the hook. And you lottery winners thought you had it so
> > good....
> > Dave
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To: Dave Porter
> > Subject: Re: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
> > 
> > Hello again.
> > 
> > Here is how it works if you have never used eBay vehicle purchase
> > protection program.
> > You send me your full name and your shipping address so I can initiate
> > the transaction on eBay.eBay contacts you with further details regarding
> > the payment
> > and shipping process.You submit the payment to eBay, eBay confirms the
> > payment and asks me to release the shipment.I ship the car which should
> > be at your
> > door within the next 5 business days.You have a 7 days inspection
> > period before you confirm the deal and eBay forwards the payment to me
> > or you cancel the
> > deal and you get your money back and return the vehicle free of charge.
> > Basically ebay holds your money safe until you confirm that the car is
> > what you have expected and you want to buy it. It is not a sight unseen
> > deal.
> > On the other hand I can ship the car knowing ebay has your money and
> > you wont dissapear with my car.We are both covered.
> > Sorry for the long emails I have tried to touch all bases.
> > 
> > Thank you,
> > James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
> > 373rd TRS/Det. 11
> > DSN 271-5791
> > 
> > 
> > Dave Porter wrote:
> >> TSgt Carlton,
> >>  Great! Let's do this. I can send a certified check today. Where?
> >> Dave
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > 
> > You are subscribed as hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu
> > 
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Aug 27 07:55:35 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 07:55:35 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
In-Reply-To: <C4DAA8CE.5E26%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <20080827135519.8083E187892@autox.team.net>

Here's how it REALLY works. Go to the FBI internet fraud unit (IC3.gov)
Google that and fill out the info. Let's all get involved with stopping
these nitwits...
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Hartfield [mailto:hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 7:47 AM
To: Dave Porter; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

I told him I live near Olympia and would come to get the car with cash.  He
said that was not possible because he could not leave the air base, he had
to ship it to me.

Michael Hartfield

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Aug 27 08:00:21 2008
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:00:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price  $25,000
In-Reply-To: <20080827135519.8083E187892@autox.team.net>
References: <20080827135519.8083E187892@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E86EEF87-C70A-40A1-B845-3A18D8E2CECA@mac.com>

Tell him you can meet him on base with the cash because you are a  
retired General and have access to all military bases.

Ask him who his commanding officer is.  You may know him because you  
know a lot of officers.

Al Malin
Tricarb

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 27 09:47:41 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 08:47:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] glove box lock
In-Reply-To: <820057.15185.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <820057.15185.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00D0F89D-062A-43F5-B1AC-52B4EF6AB0AF@sbcglobal.net>

If we had 10 glove box locks we would be sold out by the end of the  
week. Keep looking they are not available anywhere.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 27, 2008, at 5:46 AM, john doe wrote:

> anyone have one for a bj8 can't find mine after tear down
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 10:26:41 2008
From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:26:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 original hardtop for sale in netherlands.
Message-ID: <139610.81695.qm@web50405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

A rare item

Add with pics on dutch craigslist-like site:
http://link.marktplaats.nl/188255599

Translation:
1500 Euro
Original hardtop austin healey 100/4
needs to be restored

tel 0416-272155   (country code 31)

I can help get in touch if seller does not speak English or maybe we have listers there who can help. Seller seems to be a sportscar dealer/restorer?

Sportscars de Jong
sportscarsdejong at hotmail.com

There is more interesting Healey stuff on the above site.  You can use babelfish to translate, but Austin is translated as 'ow tin'  ;-)

No financial interest etc...  I don't really have a need for a hardtop in California, so I wanted to pass this along.

Bert
Dutch/Flemish speaking guy in soCal.

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Wed Aug 27 10:50:32 2008
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:50:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 original hardtop for sale in netherlands
Message-ID: <000e01c90865$05450be0$6500a8c0@9535DEE118EC44B>

A rare item indeed.  This is a genuine Universal Laminations hardtop as sold
by the Donald Healey Motor Company for the Hundred.   Two styles of rear
window were offered, a small ovalish one as shown in Anderson/ Moment and a
wrap-around style as this one is.  I have a Universal Laminations sales sheet
illustrating them both, if anyone wants a scan.

Best
Peter

From rjh.co at tx.rr.com  Wed Aug 27 11:38:58 2008
From: rjh.co at tx.rr.com (rjhco)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:38:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Jensen Healey in Dallas area
In-Reply-To: <139610.81695.qm@web50405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <139610.81695.qm@web50405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002a01c9086b$c94e3b00$5beab100$@co@tx.rr.com>

On craigslist, posted in July.  May still be around.  Here is the link:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/wan/762582108.html


Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Wed Aug 27 11:47:57 2008
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:47:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 original hardtop for sale in netherlands.
In-Reply-To: <139610.81695.qm@web50405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <139610.81695.qm@web50405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175004A0AE78@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Seller (de Jong brothers) is a well known used parts dealer in the
Netherlands.  I bought several parts from them. They have a huge amount of
Healey parts in several big barns. I can really recommend them as serious
business men. But they know the value of parts they have for sale - usually no
bargains but good value for the money you spend. Their business is about 120
miles from my house and I visited them several times. Very nice guys. They
speak fluently English and German and of course Dutch.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+josef.eckert=t-systems.com at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag
von Bert Van Brande
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 27. August 2008 18:27
An: List Healey
Betreff: [Healeys] 100-4 original hardtop for sale in netherlands.

A rare item

Add with pics on dutch craigslist-like site:
http://link.marktplaats.nl/188255599

Translation:
1500 Euro
Original hardtop austin healey 100/4
needs to be restored

tel 0416-272155   (country code 31)

I can help get in touch if seller does not speak English or maybe we have
listers there who can help. Seller seems to be a sportscar dealer/restorer?

Sportscars de Jong
sportscarsdejong at hotmail.com

There is more interesting Healey stuff on the above site.  You can use
babelfish to translate, but Austin is translated as 'ow tin'  ;-)

No financial interest etc...  I don't really have a need for a hardtop in
California, so I wanted to pass this along.

Bert
Dutch/Flemish speaking guy in soCal.
_

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Aug 27 13:10:26 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:10:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price  $25,000
In-Reply-To: <E86EEF87-C70A-40A1-B845-3A18D8E2CECA@mac.com>
References: <20080827135519.8083E187892@autox.team.net>
	<E86EEF87-C70A-40A1-B845-3A18D8E2CECA@mac.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808271210r55e6185bq2a6a2ea25d423d88@mail.gmail.com>

I had a guy claim to be in Philadelphia trying to "sell" a '67 E-type.
Pretty much the same deal as this guy except not claiming to be military.
His e mails included a lot about security and how I could be sure it was OK
since we were "dealing through" eBay.
I sent him an e mail telling him that my uncle lived near him, and he would
be happy to meet him at the bank and give him cash for the tittle and car.
To twist the knife a bit deeper I told him my uncle Mr. Benjamin Dover was a
retired FBI agent who specialized in cyber fraud.
Funny I never heard back from the scammer.

On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 7:00 AM, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:

> Tell him you can meet him on base with the cash because you are a
> retired General and have access to all military bases.
>
> Ask him who his commanding officer is.  You may know him because you
> know a lot of officers.
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From clocks at midcoast.com  Wed Aug 27 13:36:37 2008
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:36:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tires from a company called Nexen
References: <001801c9072c$d6cf11e0$0301a8c0@D9FGSR41><BAY101-W35CB741878B81649C602A7A5610@phx.gbl><BAY120-W56B43979152497403E310FA5610@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0808261834i39639d81j8ef007e3acca50eb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00b801c9087c$38f3f9d0$0201a8c0@JIM>

Alan. I just put new Kumho's on my BT7 and they all say "made in china" on 
them. Not surprising since most everything else is too now days. Now even 
the Korean's even having things made in China!! Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7
1980 Commuta-car Electric 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Aug 27 14:00:45 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 16:00:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price   $25, 000
Message-ID: <c59.348849f6.35e70c6d@aol.com>

Remind me again, how does the scam work? Is the transaction actually going  
thru ebay as stated & if it is how does he get the money before the car is  
actually delivered & approved?
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:12:01 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

His e  mails included a lot about security and how I could be sure it was OK
since  we were "dealing through"  eBay.





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From britcrs at gmail.com  Wed Aug 27 14:27:21 2008
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 13:27:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Steering Wheel
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0808271327r417f96a9w6d4c41df2c1cd0ce@mail.gmail.com>

I am finishing up the restoration of a '54 BN1 that someone else started
about 20 years ago. Among the new parts that came with the project is a
pristine/new steering wheel. This week when I went to install it, guess what
- it doesn't fit. The female spline diameter of the steering wheel is
smaller than the steering column spline. I tried 2 old wheels that I have
and they are measurably larger and fit fine. Other than the spline fit, the
wheel appears to be a non-adjustable Healey steering wheel.

I found a very old invoice that came with the car that shows this wheel was
purchased 12/14/89. The supplier still has it listed under the same part
number so I am going to order another one and hope for the best. I won't
wait 19 years to see if it fits.

My bottom line question is, does anyone have an idea what this wheel fits so
someone can make use of it?



Marv J

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Aug 27 14:56:16 2008
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:56:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000
In-Reply-To: <20080827021111.A9787187653@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006301c90887$593c48e0$1e00000a@DANSTROM>

Boy, if this guy(James Carlton-I'll bet that's his real name) is in the US
Army (or is it the US Air Force-he doesn't seem to know the difference), we
are in real trouble.  His response looks more like he learned how to write
in (other than the US-you fill it in).  How do these guys get away with
this?  How do we stop it?
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Dave Porter
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Answer from the scammer??

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: James Carlton [mailto:carltonj75 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:05 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: Re:1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price $25,000

Hello,

Sorry for the late response, but because I work in the US army  it's 
very hard for me to reply faster.I wanted to let you know that my *1967 
Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII*  is still available.
If you are interested in buying my 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII  
you can view more photos and also the description here: 
http://james-carlton.8k.com/Description.html
I want to sell my car for $25,000.
The condition of the car it's perfect.Has been always kept in garage and 
from you can see in the pictures it's a showroom car.
The title of the car it's clear under my name.
Now i am located in Olympia,Wa, and the car is with me but if you want i 
can ship it for free anywhere in USA.
As payment method we can use eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection Program as 
i am an old member of them. Please let me know if you have any questions 
and if you are interested in buying my car.

Thank you,
James Carlton, TSgt, USAF
373rd TRS/Det. 11
DSN 271-5791
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as dan at warner-associates.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 15:14:39 2008
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:14:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price    $25,
 000
In-Reply-To: <c59.348849f6.35e70c6d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <934638.71174.qm@web52409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

It's likely that the scammer has created bogus ebay pages that he will be sending the unsuspecting buyer. Wonder how many 25K's he's collected?
Best 
JK


--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price   $25, 000
> To: richard.ewald at gmail.com, amalin at mac.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 4:00 PM
> Remind me again, how does the scam work? Is the transaction
> actually going  
> thru ebay as stated & if it is how does he get the
> money before the car is  
> actually delivered & approved?
> Gary Hodson
>  
>  
> In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:12:01 P.M. Central Daylight
> Time,  
> richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:
> 
> His e  mails included a lot about security and how I could
> be sure it was OK
> since  we were "dealing through"  eBay.
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jmnewt at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 15:22:08 2008
From: jmnewt at comcast.net (JACK NEWTON)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:22:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtops
Message-ID: <00a501c9088a$f6ea0250$b175464b@D5YQ8431>

I have two " project" hardtops to sell.  One for a 100-4 and one for a 
Bugeye.   Brand or Mfg info is unknown.   Each needs fiberglass repair and 
refinishing.   If you are interested and I will send details before they go 
on EBay.  Tops are in Colorado.
TIA.
Jack 

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed Aug 27 15:29:38 2008
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:29:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price  $25,000
In-Reply-To: <c59.348849f6.35e70c6d@aol.com>
References: <c59.348849f6.35e70c6d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10808271429n5a7ed9b9nb621370f0b33362d@mail.gmail.com>

They have a fake web page set up that looks like an eBay page and you wire
the money there, or they have you send a certified check.
You get plenty off assurances that the car is on the way, until the funds
are out of your account then you never hear from them again, and needless to
say the car never shows up.
Ways to tell if it is a scam
1. Car is pristine and selling below market value by a large amount.
2. Contact information is given in ad, and you are instructed to contact
direct not through ebay.  Often they will photoshop an email addy right onto
the pictures in the add.
3. free delivery is offered anywhere in the US
4. Buyer is unavailable (Military, expate etc)
5. You are told that they will use an "eBay escrow service" and the car will
be shipped to you.
6. Very poor English, often gets worse with every contact
Cavet emptor
Rick

On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 1:00 PM, <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

>  Remind me again, how does the scam work? Is the transaction actually
> going thru ebay as stated & if it is how does he get the money before the
> car is actually delivered & approved?
> Gary Hodson
>
>  In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:12:01 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:
>
> His e mails included a lot about security and how I could be sure it was OK
> since we were "dealing through" eBay.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> It's only a deal if it's where *you* want to go. Find your travel deal *
> here* <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>.

From mbruce6 at cogeco.ca  Wed Aug 27 15:41:24 2008
From: mbruce6 at cogeco.ca (Mal Bruce)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:41:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Steering Wheel
References: <cd33dd3a0808271327r417f96a9w6d4c41df2c1cd0ce@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c9088d$a7670f90$0ef58d18@mal71b83fb7a5c>

Didn't BN1s change to non adjustable steering when the driver's seat was 
made adjustable?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marvin James" <britcrs at gmail.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 4:27 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Steering Wheel


>I am finishing up the restoration of a '54 BN1 that someone else started
> about 20 years ago. Among the new parts that came with the project is a
> pristine/new steering wheel. This week when I went to install it, guess 
> what
> - it doesn't fit. The female spline diameter of the steering wheel is
> smaller than the steering column spline. I tried 2 old wheels that I have
> and they are measurably larger and fit fine. Other than the spline fit, 
> the
> wheel appears to be a non-adjustable Healey steering wheel.
>
> I found a very old invoice that came with the car that shows this wheel 
> was
> purchased 12/14/89. The supplier still has it listed under the same part
> number so I am going to order another one and hope for the best. I won't
> wait 19 years to see if it fits.
>
> My bottom line question is, does anyone have an idea what this wheel fits 
> so
> someone can make use of it?
>
>
>
> Marv J
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as mbruce6 at cogeco.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.9/1637 - Release Date: 8/27/2008 
> 7:01 AM

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Aug 27 18:21:41 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price     $25,
 000
Message-ID: <20080828002141.QQXY27873.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Welll-----if anyone is stupid enough to fall for it------maybe--they deserve it:):):):):)  


> 
> From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>
> Date: 2008/08/27 Wed PM 05:14:39 EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price    $25,
>  000
> 
> It's likely that the scammer has created bogus ebay pages that he will be sending the unsuspecting buyer. Wonder how many 25K's he's collected?
> Best 
> JK
> 
> 
> --- On Wed, 8/27/08, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price   $25, 000
> > To: richard.ewald at gmail.com, amalin at mac.com
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 4:00 PM
> > Remind me again, how does the scam work? Is the transaction
> > actually going  
> > thru ebay as stated & if it is how does he get the
> > money before the car is  
> > actually delivered & approved?
> > Gary Hodson
> >  
> >  
> > In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:12:01 P.M. Central Daylight
> > Time,  
> > richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:
> > 
> > His e  mails included a lot about security and how I could
> > be sure it was OK
> > since  we were "dealing through"  eBay.
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From austinbj8 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 19:05:31 2008
From: austinbj8 at yahoo.com (john gillespie)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price      $25,
 000
In-Reply-To: <20080828002141.QQXY27873.ispmxmta06-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>
Message-ID: <223015.80840.qm@web34506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

To all older listers,  Did anyone happen to pick up on this fellows rank and
branch of service?  Some of us oldies should see that he lists himself a
T/Sgt, however he claims he is in the army.  The rank and branch do not jibe,
maybe he is in a different army.  It pays to look at all of the facts that are
presented. J. G.

--- On Wed, 8/27/08, tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
From: tomfelts at windstream.net <tomfelts at windstream.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price     $25,
000
To: jackson_krall at yahoo.com, healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 8:21 PM

Welll-----if anyone is stupid enough to fall for it------maybe--they deserve
it:):):):):)


>
> From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>
> Date: 2008/08/27 Wed PM 05:14:39 EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price    $25,
>  000
>
> It's likely that the scammer has created bogus ebay pages that he will
be sending the unsuspecting buyer. Wonder how many 25K's he's collected?
> Best
> JK
>
>
> --- On Wed, 8/27/08, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > From: Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price
$25, 000
> > To: richard.ewald at gmail.com, amalin at mac.com
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 4:00 PM
> > Remind me again, how does the scam work? Is the transaction
> > actually going
> > thru ebay as stated & if it is how does he get the
> > money before the car is
> > actually delivered & approved?
> > Gary Hodson
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/27/2008 2:12:01 P.M. Central Daylight
> > Time,
> > richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:
> >
> > His e  mails included a lot about security and how I could
> > be sure it was OK
> > since  we were "dealing through"  eBay.
> >
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as austinbj8 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 19:14:15 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:14:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 MKIII price     $25,
 000
In-Reply-To: <934638.71174.qm@web52409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <934638.71174.qm@web52409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48B5FBE7.4030407@comcast.net>

Ya gotta wonder how about the level of car knowledge of some of the 
scammers.  $25K for a nice BJ8--although the one in the pictures looks 
like a concours gold car--is at least believable (the ones selling for 
$5-10K are too obvious a scam).  Do they actually know something about 
the cars they scam, or is it trial and error on price, story, etc?

Guess we should be flattered they're scamming Healeys ;)

bs


Jackson Krall wrote:
> It's likely that the scammer has created bogus ebay pages that he will be sending the unsuspecting buyer. Wonder how many 25K's he's collected?
> Best 
> JK
>
>
>   
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 19:20:09 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:20:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Legislative cheap shot - pt 1
Message-ID: <48B5FD49.8000905@comcast.net>

Got this from Moss today:

Immediate Action Needed!
Committee Hearing set for August 28. Call Now!!!

In an effort to avoid public scrutiny, California Assemblyman Dave Jones 
(Assemblymember.jones at assembly.ca.gov) has amended a completely 
unrelated bill with language to require annual Smog check inspections 
for vehicles 15-years old and older. This represents an obvious attempt 
to sneak through legislation in the closing days of the legislative 
session that had been previously defeated (A.B. 616). The new bill is 
designated as A.B. 3053.

While pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under existing 
California law, this proposal ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years 
old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle 
population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions 
reduction.  Furthermore, the bill would direct that the funds generated 
through annual inspection fees be used to scrap older cars. This 
represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to 
scapegoat older cars.

<cont.>

-- 


*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Aug 27 19:20:44 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:20:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Legislative cheap shot - pt 2
Message-ID: <48B5FD6C.5010001@comcast.net>

<cont.>

This is the type of activity that fuels distrust in public officials. 
SEMA caught this lawmakers underhanded attempt to circumvent public 
process and is now calling on you to help defeat A.B 3053 before its 
too late.

Time is of the Essence! We Urge You to Call the California Senate 
Appropriations Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 3053


California Senate Appropriations Committee

Senator Tom Torlakson  Chair
Phone: 916/651-4007
Email: senator.torlakson at sen.ca.gov

Senator Dave Cox
Phone: 916/651-4001
Email: senator.cox at sen.ca.gov

Senator Sam Aanestad
Phone: 916/651-4004
Email: senator.aanestad at sen.ca.gov

Senator Roy Ashburn
Phone: 916/651-4018
Email: senator.ashburn at sen.ca.gov

Senator Gilbert Cedillo
Phone: 916/651-4022
Email: senator.cedillo at sen.ca.gov

Senator Ellen Corbett
Phone: 916/651-4010

Senator Robert Dutton
Phone: 916/651-4031
Email: senator.dutton at sen.ca.gov

Senator Dean Florez
Phone: 916/651-4016
Email: senator.florez at sen.ca.gov

Senator Sheila Kuehl
Phone: 916/651-4023
Email: senator.kuehl at sen.ca.gov

Senator Jenny Oropeza
Phone: 916/651-4028

Senator Mark Ridley-Thomas
Phone: 916/651-4026

Senator George Runner
Phone: 916/651-4017
Email: senator.runner at sen.ca.gov

Senator Joe Simitian
Phone: 916/651-4011
Email: senator.simitian at sen.ca.gov

Senator Mark Wyland
Phone: 916/651-4038

Senator Leland Yee
Phone: 916/651-4008

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net
*******************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Aug 27 21:58:41 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:58:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Drawings / Measurements
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808272058w117e26eal48f2c04e366cb887@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -

Am prepping my BJ8 to be ripped apart and she needs a some chassis work.

Is there a source for detailed measurements on the chassis and sub frame for
the BJ8 out there (other than the basic one on the workshop manual?).  I
have Larry Varley's BN1 chassis drawing but the cars are enough different
that I would like to get a proper engineer's drawing of the BJ8 Phase II
chassis if available.  Failing that if there's a source for detailed chassis
measurements, that will be helpful as well.

Thanks!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 27 22:42:03 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:42:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers,

Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at about 150
miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor at fault.
I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the brass is
moulded into the base.

There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable sources of
same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors and rotor
sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and 'buy from
xxx'.

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 00:25:14 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:25:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808272325l35a7230aw66d3bfbd6c7182a1@mail.gmail.com>

Robert -

I know that both British Car Specialists (the Nocks) and Cape International
sell the good rotors.

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=16&thepart=12335

Best Regards,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 12:42 PM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at about 150
> miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor at
> fault.
> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the brass is
> moulded into the base.
>
> There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable sources
> of
> same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors and rotor
> sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and 'buy from
> xxx'.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 00:49:52 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 23:49:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Experience with "Kool mat" (www.koolmat.com)
In-Reply-To: <6221e4f80808261459k754fd42dr53e4ecf0b562741b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6221e4f80808261459k754fd42dr53e4ecf0b562741b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808272349v1117929cg9d5b0d2fc35d2235@mail.gmail.com>

Jeffrey:
personally i would not own a car with out it.
it cuts down noise and heat.
i have it in my BJ8, E type, 1988 Chevy blazer, and my new Nash healey.
ron rader
On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 2:59 PM, Jeffrey Steinberg <kilo2mit at gmail.com>wrote:

> In my quest to get the temperature by my right foot to a reasonable
> level, I discovered www.koolmat.com. They have a precut kit for the
> 3000 (I have a 64 BJ8).  Anyone have any experience with the kit.  Was
> installation straight forward?  Did it reduce the cockpit heat level?
>
> --Jeffrey

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 04:54:41 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 06:54:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Drawings / Measurements
References: <ff59076c0808272058w117e26eal48f2c04e366cb887@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c908fc$7ac213d0$1236e046@markl946cfrd7q>

Whats wrong with the workshop manual drawings.   I can't see how your going 
to get
anymore detailed than pages R.1 and R.2.   Its the  roadster frame but its 
got to be closer than the
early 50's  frames.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 11:58 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Drawings / Measurements


> Hi All -
>
> Am prepping my BJ8 to be ripped apart and she needs a some chassis work.
>
> Is there a source for detailed measurements on the chassis and sub frame 
> for
> the BJ8 out there (other than the basic one on the workshop manual?).  I
> have Larry Varley's BN1 chassis drawing but the cars are enough different
> that I would like to get a proper engineer's drawing of the BJ8 Phase II
> chassis if available.  Failing that if there's a source for detailed 
> chassis
> measurements, that will be helpful as well.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From britcrs at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 08:01:01 2008
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 07:01:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0808280701y370fe87es1b9f9536f9812f83@mail.gmail.com>

Robert,
Moss is now selling a "Premium Ignition Rotor"

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=67035

It appears to be the same one that Cape International is selling

The "Distributor Doctor" in the UK has been selling what appears to be the
same one for several years. The writeup for the Moss part is very similar to
the distributor doctor. I suspect he is the source for the Moss and Cape
parts or they are using his source.

http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html

I haven't seen the Nocks rotors but I would have confidence in them.

Marv J

On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at about 150
> miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor at
> fault.
> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the brass is
> moulded into the base.
>
> There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable sources
> of
> same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors and rotor
> sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and 'buy from
> xxx'.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Warthodson at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 08:38:50 2008
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 10:38:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] economy run
Message-ID: <c57.3e51c31b.35e8127a@aol.com>

Fuel economy is a popular topic at our local AHC meetings with a wide range  
of MPG being reported. So, I would like to incorporate a low tech. economy  
run with one of our fall driving events. It would be based on the honor system.  
Everyone would fill up at designated gas station which would also be the  
starting point for the drive & record their starting mileage & start  time. Near 
the end of the scenic drive, they would fill up again at a designated  
station, record their fuel consumption, mileage & arrival time. Then they  would 
drive to the final destination where we would calculate the individual MPG  & 
average MPH. The scenic drive would have a "target" average MPH, that  could 
easily & safely be attained. What I need is a simple formula (or a  correction 
factor) to adjust the MPG up or down based upon the individual  deviation from the 
specified MPH. Does anyone have any suggestions for  this type of "correction 
factor" or formula?
Also, if anyone knows how this adjustment was made on the serious  type, high 
tech economy runs, I would be interested in knowing. 
Gary Hodson    



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 09:13:45 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:13:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7C3F43D7-29EC-4644-97E6-FD223FDF9C64@sbcglobal.net>

My bet here is that you have electronic ignition on the car.


On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at  
> about 150
> miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor  
> at fault.
> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the  
> brass is
> moulded into the base.
>
> There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable  
> sources of
> same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors  
> and rotor
> sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and  
> 'buy from
> xxx'.
>
> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Thu Aug 28 09:20:00 2008
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:20:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] MGA, MGB 1955-68 Autobook by Kenneth Ball
Message-ID: <B11D1DA2E8F2480E8B6CECE393F04D0B@company92305fb>

I bought a load of car stuff the other day which included the above. I
have the equivalent version for my 3000 and think its very good. I know the
book is no rarity but I doubt its on that many (convenient) shelves.
Anyhow, Im going to sell the book as its no good to me. So first offer to
you all..



Its not at all dog eared. It has a few grubby fingerprints, but only a very
few. The cover is 100% intact with a brown stain on the reverse. The spine
is not compromised.

Price? #5:00 (GBP) plus postage. I do live in the UK so postage may be an
issue here for most of you?!



Simon.

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 09:40:33 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:40:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <7C3F43D7-29EC-4644-97E6-FD223FDF9C64@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <788364.51687.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

David, good guess - I do.  Not new - been there for a long time.

BUT, it was the rotor - new rotor put in - bingo.

What rotors do you sell and where are they manufactured?

   Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"
<collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:13 AM
> My bet here is that you have electronic ignition on the car.
>
>
> On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
>
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the
> freeway at
> > about 150
> > miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to
> be the rotor
> > at fault.
> > I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not
> the one where the
> > brass is
> > moulded into the base.
> >
> > There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the
> questionaable
> > sources of
> > same.  Would those of you with experience of good and
> bad rotors
> > and rotor
> > sources, please re-tell your recommendations of
> 'made in xxx' and
> > 'buy from
> > xxx'.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 09:58:21 2008
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <788364.51687.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <788364.51687.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CBCCCDFE-0D00-4919-93F6-6632893E3C40@sbcglobal.net>

I am starting to think that some of these rotor failures is possible  
caused by the electronic ignition. The rotors sometimes dont go on  
and bottom out thus causing the rotor to sit against the cap. Also I   
have not had a rotor problem with any of the cars that we maintain  
that are running stock ignition systems.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 28, 2008, at 8:40 AM, Robert Blair wrote:

> David, good guess - I do.  Not new - been there for a long time.
>
> BUT, it was the rotor - new rotor put in - bingo.
>
> What rotors do you sell and where are they manufactured?
>
>    Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> --- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
>> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
>> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"  
>> <collinsclassics at comcast.net>
>> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:13 AM
>> My bet here is that you have electronic ignition on the car.
>>
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Listers,
>>>
>>> Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the
>> freeway at
>>> about 150
>>> miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to
>> be the rotor
>>> at fault.
>>> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not
>> the one where the
>>> brass is
>>> moulded into the base.
>>>
>>> There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the
>> questionaable
>>> sources of
>>> same.  Would those of you with experience of good and
>> bad rotors
>>> and rotor
>>> sources, please re-tell your recommendations of
>> 'made in xxx' and
>>> 'buy from
>>> xxx'.
>>>
>>> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive

From britcrs at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 10:34:29 2008
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:34:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <cd33dd3a0808280701y370fe87es1b9f9536f9812f83@mail.gmail.com>
References: <376654.78759.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<cd33dd3a0808280701y370fe87es1b9f9536f9812f83@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0808280934u2d51935emfde825bf145edf23@mail.gmail.com>

Just found out that Peter C at Worldwide Auto Parts in Madison Wisconsin
also has the good rotors and at a good price.

www.nosimport.com

Marv J

On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 7:01 AM, Marvin James <britcrs at gmail.com> wrote:

> Robert,
> Moss is now selling a "Premium Ignition Rotor"
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=67035
>
> It appears to be the same one that Cape International is selling
>
> The "Distributor Doctor" in the UK has been selling what appears to be the
> same one for several years. The writeup for the Moss part is very similar to
> the distributor doctor. I suspect he is the source for the Moss and Cape
> parts or they are using his source.
>
> http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
>
> I haven't seen the Nocks rotors but I would have confidence in them.
>
> Marv J
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 27, 2008 at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair <rnbmail at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at about
>> 150
>> miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor at
>> fault.
>> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the brass is
>> moulded into the base.
>>
>> There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable sources
>> of
>> same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors and rotor
>> sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and 'buy
>> from
>> xxx'.
>>
>> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as britcrs at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 28 12:19:51 2008
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (gary brierton)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:19:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] economy run
In-Reply-To: <c57.3e51c31b.35e8127a@aol.com>
References: <c57.3e51c31b.35e8127a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DS23DAB8F59E7236E974919B3600@phx.gbl>

Hi Gary (great name),
Here's one solution, just off the top of my head:

My mph = 40 mph
The target = 50 mph

Since driving slower gave me an advantage, divide my speed (40) by the 
target speed (50) and take the answer (0.80) times my miles per gallon. If I 
achieved 25 miles per gallon, multiplying that by 0.80 drops me to 20 mph. 
If someone drives faster, I would probably just leave their mileage 
"un-corrected".
GaryB



--------------------------------------------------
From: <Warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 10:38 AM
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] economy run

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Thu Aug 28 12:20:04 2008
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:20:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
	<BAY139-W217A931CB1CCF3A7CBC9ACB3660@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Anybody out there have a diagram of how to convert on BJ8? The one I
have is for a Sprite and the older style regulator.
Need ASAP. I searched the HML Archives but found a LOT of talk about the
alternators / generators but no one seemed to have a diagram.

Thanks,

Jimf at frakes-eng.com



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From glembotski at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 12:54:25 2008
From: glembotski at sbcglobal.net (glembotski at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:54:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hustin Healey Reference Books
Message-ID: <008501c9093f$7ec5c650$210110ac@JOHNNY>

I am disposing of my collection of Austin Healey reference books.  This is a
great addition to your library and very useful for any type of big Healey
restoration.  I will be listing these on ebay but though I would give the
listers first crack at them.

Austin Healey 3000 MkIII Drivers Handbook     (reprint of BMC original)
1966

Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Super Profile        John Wheatley
1987

Healey  by Autocar                                        Peter Garnier
1983

Original Austin Healey Restorer's Guide           Anders Ditley Clausager
1990
    100, 100-6 & 3000

Healey The Specials                                      Geoffrey Healey
1980

Illustrated Austin Healey Buyers Guide            Richard Newton
1984

Austin Healey The Story of The Big Healeys    Geoffrey Healey
1977

Donald Healey My World of Cars                    Peter Garnier
1989
    Forward by Carroll Shelby


Essential Austin Healey  100 & 3000              Mike Lawrence
1994

Haynes Great Cars Austin Healey                    Bill Pillott
2002

Austin Healey (Osprey Color Classics)            David McLavin
1992

Healey the Handsome Brute                            Chris Harvey
1978

Sports Car Color History                                   John Heiwg
1995
    Austin Healey 100 & 3000

Austin Healey 3000 Gold Portfolio                    R. M. Clarke
various
    Brookland Books

The Big Healeys (A Collectors Guide)               Graham Robson
1981


As you can see some of these are rather old and out of publication and not
available anywhere else.
Contact me via email for more info if interested.

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 12:59:29 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <CBCCCDFE-0D00-4919-93F6-6632893E3C40@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <847084.93535.qm@web37906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Interesting thought ...........I am carrying two spares now.

   Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"
<collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:58 AM
> I am starting to think that some of these rotor failures is
> possible
> caused by the electronic ignition. The rotors sometimes
> dont go on
> and bottom out thus causing the rotor to sit against the
> cap. Also I
> have not had a rotor problem with any of the cars that we
> maintain
> that are running stock ignition systems.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Aug 28, 2008, at 8:40 AM, Robert Blair wrote:
>
> > David, good guess - I do.  Not new - been there for a
> long time.
> >
> > BUT, it was the rotor - new rotor put in - bingo.
> >
> > What rotors do you sell and where are they
> manufactured?
> >
> >    Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> >> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> >> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >> Cc: "Healey List"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"
> >> <collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> >> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:13 AM
> >> My bet here is that you have electronic ignition
> on the car.
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Listers,
> >>>
> >>> Third drive out since the resto, and we
> stopped on the
> >> freeway at
> >>> about 150
> >>> miles completed - against my wishes.  It
> turned out to
> >> be the rotor
> >>> at fault.
> >>> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the
> top, not
> >> the one where the
> >>> brass is
> >>> moulded into the base.
> >>>
> >>> There has been lots of good chat on rotors -
> and the
> >> questionaable
> >>> sources of
> >>> same.  Would those of you with experience of
> good and
> >> bad rotors
> >>> and rotor
> >>> sources, please re-tell your recommendations
> of
> >> 'made in xxx' and
> >>> 'buy from
> >>> xxx'.
> >>>
> >>> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8
> rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >>>
> >>>
> _______________________________________________
> >>> Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>>
> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>
> >>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >>>
> >>> http://www.team.net/archive

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 13:03:00 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:03:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <CBCCCDFE-0D00-4919-93F6-6632893E3C40@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <115324.34029.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Norman, Do you manage/care where your rotors are manufactured - China et al?
You obviously have a large data based of prior events to go on.

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"
<collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:58 AM
> I am starting to think that some of these rotor failures is
> possible
> caused by the electronic ignition. The rotors sometimes
> dont go on
> and bottom out thus causing the rotor to sit against the
> cap. Also I
> have not had a rotor problem with any of the cars that we
> maintain
> that are running stock ignition systems.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Aug 28, 2008, at 8:40 AM, Robert Blair wrote:
>
> > David, good guess - I do.  Not new - been there for a
> long time.
> >
> > BUT, it was the rotor - new rotor put in - bingo.
> >
> > What rotors do you sell and where are they
> manufactured?
> >
> >    Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- On Thu, 8/28/08, David Nock
> <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> >> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> >> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >> Cc: "Healey List"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Tom Collins"
> >> <collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> >> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 8:13 AM
> >> My bet here is that you have electronic ignition
> on the car.
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi Listers,
> >>>
> >>> Third drive out since the resto, and we
> stopped on the
> >> freeway at
> >>> about 150
> >>> miles completed - against my wishes.  It
> turned out to
> >> be the rotor
> >>> at fault.
> >>> I had the one with the 'rivet' in the
> top, not
> >> the one where the
> >>> brass is
> >>> moulded into the base.
> >>>
> >>> There has been lots of good chat on rotors -
> and the
> >> questionaable
> >>> sources of
> >>> same.  Would those of you with experience of
> good and
> >> bad rotors
> >>> and rotor
> >>> sources, please re-tell your recommendations
> of
> >> 'made in xxx' and
> >>> 'buy from
> >>> xxx'.
> >>>
> >>> Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8
> rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >>>
> >>>
> _______________________________________________
> >>> Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>>
> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>
> >>> You are subscribed as healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >>>
> >>> http://www.team.net/archive

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 28 13:38:44 2008
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:38:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <BAY101-W24C15E8C570E81E9A78EAFDB600@phx.gbl>

If you are using a Pertronix system, you need to grind down the rotor so it
sits farther down on the shaft. I have seen a few dizzy's where rotors were
not taken down and there is a lot of black dust inside the dizzy. I saw one
where the center electrode was completely worn away. Dan Serrao1963 BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 13:43:18 2008
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Drawings / Measurements
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0808272058w117e26eal48f2c04e366cb887@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <177486.92200.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

 
Hi Alan; Back in February I sent the following to the List.
 
'' The [attached] diagram is based on a picture downloaded off Larry Varley's
website and then cleaned-up and enhanced for clarification purposes.  To
simplify things, I sent a request to our club's webmistress to have the
revised diagram put on the Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario website. 
It is now available at  http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/TechTalk.htm
 
The file 100-6_3000ChassisDesign.doc  is a MSWord document of 2500kb, with
an embedded jpeg diagram and notations, on a legal size page [8 = x 14] with
a landscape orientation.  If enlarged to 350% all the fine detail will be
quite readable. 
 
The original picture downloaded in 2002 is about 54 x 33 at 297 pixels/in. 
Needless to say, it was a considerable size.  It can be seen at 
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/healeydraw.html in a tiff format along with
a number of other drawings from the Donald Healey Motor Company and Austin
Manufacturing.  These were provided to Larry Varley by Greg Kilmartin and
Chris Harding.
 
Anyway, there it is.  Oh yes, I see my revised version more as art work than
a working diagram.  If you wish to use it to as a working diagram, be sure to
check it against the diagram and measurements shown in your workshop manual. 
There, that should take care of any liability issues.   ''

 
Hopefully, this will help you somewhat.  Of course, you will have to refer to
your workshop manual for those specific differences for the Phase II BJ8
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote: << Hi All - 
Am prepping my BJ8 to be ripped apart and she needs a some chassis work.  Is
there a source for detailed measurements on the chassis and sub frame for the
BJ8 out there (other than the basic one on the workshop manual?).  I have
Larry Varley's BN1 chassis drawing but the cars are enough different that I
would like to get a proper engineer's drawing of the BJ8 Phase II chassis if
available.  Failing that if there's a source for detailed chassis
measurements, that will be helpful as well. >>
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo!
Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now at
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of 100-6_3000ChassisDesign.doc]

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 14:20:27 2008
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:20:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
	<BAY139-W217A931CB1CCF3A7CBC9ACB3660@phx.gbl>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <hu1eb4lbarm53qgcef690ijcos13tu36hi@4ax.com>

Don Lenshow   Drtrite at aol.com  offers a kit (with instructions) that
uses a Delco alternator.  I used it on our BJ7 with great success and
no problems.

You are going to need some parts to make the conversion and unless you
like reinventing the wheel you could do a lot worse than getting Don's
kit.

-Roland



On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:20:04 -0400, you wrote:

::Anybody out there have a diagram of how to convert on BJ8? The one I
::have is for a Sprite and the older style regulator.
::Need ASAP. I searched the HML Archives but found a LOT of talk about the
::alternators / generators but no one seemed to have a diagram.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Jimf at frakes-eng.com

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Aug 28 14:32:42 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:32:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <20080828203242.SESY13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

David-----what are you saying?  If electronic then how does it affect the rotor?
tom 
> 
> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: 2008/08/28 Thu AM 11:13:45 EDT
> To: rnbmail at yahoo.com
> CC: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>, 
> 	Tom Collins <collinsclassics at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
> 
> My bet here is that you have electronic ignition on the car.
> 
> 
> On Aug 27, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Robert Blair wrote:
> 
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > Third drive out since the resto, and we stopped on the freeway at  
> > about 150
> > miles completed - against my wishes.  It turned out to be the rotor  
> > at fault.
> > I had the one with the 'rivet' in the top, not the one where the  
> > brass is
> > moulded into the base.
> >
> > There has been lots of good chat on rotors - and the questionaable  
> > sources of
> > same.  Would those of you with experience of good and bad rotors  
> > and rotor
> > sources, please re-tell your recommendations of 'made in xxx' and  
> > 'buy from
> > xxx'.
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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From kags at shaw.ca  Thu Aug 28 14:51:07 2008
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 13:51:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
References: <BAY101-W24C15E8C570E81E9A78EAFDB600@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <825B342A47774EB7A14299F9D67FF95B@computer>

Gents:

David is right - it's been my experience that rotor to cap clearance has 
been a problem when electronic ignitions are used, but not always.  It seems 
to depend on what clearance was in the distributor initially - the placement 
(height) of the distributor shaft in the body can vary a bit from unit to 
unit.  Re-bushed distributors are suspect, as the shaft might be sitting a 
few thou higher in the body, and the placement of the magnet signal wheel 
(or slotted wheel) under the rotor raises the rotor just enough to cause 
clearance problems in some distributors.

I would be very leery of modifying any rotor - if it's ground down in any 
manner, you are reducing the distance between the metal part of the rotor 
and the top of the dist. shaft on which it mounts - not a good idea at all, 
given the rotor problems that have existed.

What I have done (and I recommend) is to grind a bit off the centre tower in 
the cap - not much will be needed.  This should be done with the carbon 
'button' and spring removed for obvious reasons.  The only downside - if you 
are carrying a spare dist. cap in the boot (don't we all do that?), it will 
have to be similarly modified.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan" <jobu53 at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....


If you are using a Pertronix system, you need to grind down the rotor so it
sits farther down on the shaft. I have seen a few dizzy's where rotors were
not taken down and there is a lot of black dust inside the dizzy. I saw one
where the center electrode was completely worn away. Dan Serrao1963 BJ7

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Thu Aug 28 14:53:41 2008
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (price at advocateadvisors.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:53:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <1798729273-1219956790-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-585617128-@bxe003.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Wouldn't you think someone would make quality rotor that would accomodate the dimentions of an electronic ignition without having to go to your shop and grind it?
------Original Message------
From: Dan
Sender: healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Aug 28, 2008 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....

If you are using a Pertronix system, you need to grind down the rotor so it
sits farther down on the shaft. I have seen a few dizzy's where rotors were
not taken down and there is a lot of black dust inside the dizzy. I saw one
where the center electrode was completely worn away. Dan Serrao1963 BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008
_______________________________________________
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From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Aug 28 14:59:03 2008
From: quenty at ntelos.net (David Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:59:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Grill Help !
Message-ID: <B1EFE3CE-C919-4C5D-9718-1A0D1CDB8FCE@ntelos.net>

Hello all.
It's my understanding that the bonnet Grill in my BN7 II installed  
from the inside (backside) by hooking the lower edge of the grill over  
the turned up flange on the bonnet. and then rotating the grill  
forward and up into the Bulge.

  Coming from the back The Grill ends won't allow me to push the grill  
far enough forward to hook over flange.

What am I doing Wrong?

Dave and Daisy

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Aug 28 15:00:09 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:00:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34>
	<BAY139-W217A931CB1CCF3A7CBC9ACB3660@phx.gbl>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <004701c90951$0e7af570$2b70e050$@rr.com>

Jim, here is a diagram for adding a Delco-Remy SI-10 alternator to a BJ8.
This is how I did it. The only thing required besides the alternator itself
is a plug with pigtail, which is also available from NAPA.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Frakes, Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 11:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8

Anybody out there have a diagram of how to convert on BJ8? The one I
have is for a Sprite and the older style regulator.
Need ASAP. I searched the HML Archives but found a LOT of talk about the
alternators / generators but no one seemed to have a diagram.

Thanks,

Jimf at frakes-eng.com



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From gardner5 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 28 15:00:36 2008
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:00:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Running engine
Message-ID: <082820082100.952.48B711F4000DFBA0000003B822007621949D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>

Just finishing up my BN2 engine rebuild.  The engine keeps running after the ignition is shut off.  Idle is set below spec., timing 6 degrees, and it does have a Petronix ignitor.  Any ideas? 
 
Joel

From Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com  Thu Aug 28 15:17:07 2008
From: Kendall.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:17:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <825B342A47774EB7A14299F9D67FF95B@computer>
References: <BAY101-W24C15E8C570E81E9A78EAFDB600@phx.gbl>
	<825B342A47774EB7A14299F9D67FF95B@computer>
Message-ID: <0B88281C9591904D9B35C6EB66E8A80D01502238@SACMX1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

For the BJ8 applications, there may also be a difference in rotor
clearance between a Healey side terminal cap and a TR6 top terminal cap
that some of us use.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Aug 28 15:26:54 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:26:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <1798729273-1219956790-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim
	.net-585617128-@bxe003.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1798729273-1219956790-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-585617128-@bxe003.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080828162442.02cae9f8@nosimport.com>

At 03:53 PM 8/28/2008, price at advocateadvisors.com wrote:
>Wouldn't you think someone would make quality rotor that would 
>accomodate the dimentions of an electronic ignition without having 
>to go to your shop and grind it?
===========
Wouldn't you think the guy making the electronic chopper would make 
it the right dimension? He's only been doing it for 15 years, the 
rotor's been around for 50.

Peter C 

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 15:27:49 2008
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:27:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <c3c.3cbf745b.35e87255@aol.com>

It seems to me that the electronic ignition company should reduce the  height 
of the magnet sleeve so that they fit intended distributors.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
 
 
In a message dated 8/28/2008 5:01:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
price at advocateadvisors.com writes:

Wouldn't  you think someone would make quality rotor that would accomodate 
the  dimentions of an electronic ignition without having to go to your shop and  
grind it?
------Original Message------
From: Dan
Sender:  healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
To:  healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Aug 28, 2008 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys]  Rotors - it happened ....

If you are using a Pertronix system, you need  to grind down the rotor so it
sits farther down on the shaft. I have seen a  few dizzy's where rotors were
not taken down and there is a lot of black  dust inside the dizzy. I saw one
where the center electrode was completely  worn away. Dan Serrao1963  BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Get  ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to  share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  price at advocateadvisors.com

http://www.team.net/archive


Sent  via BlackBerry by  AT&T
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**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 15:30:10 2008
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:30:10 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Phil Hill
Message-ID: <c54.32c1dac6.35e872e2@aol.com>

This news has reached several of my lists, so I don't want the Healey list to 
miss it.

This morning at 10:30 am, at the hospital in Monterey, where he had just been 
an honored guest at the Monterey HIstoric Automobile Races, Phil Hill passed 
away from complications of Parkinson's Disease. Phil was a true American hero 
in motorsports, and the first American to be the Formula 1 World Champion, 
driving a Ferrari.   I'm grateful that I had the chance to see his victory laps 
at the end of a long and courageous life, when he was driven around Laguna Seca 
at the Monterey Historics in the Alfa in which he won the Pebble Beach races
Gary


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Thu Aug 28 15:31:03 2008
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:31:03 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
Message-ID: <c0d.374ae26f.35e87317@aol.com>

I agree and have been using a ground down rotor for years with no  problem.  
And I have a spare ground down.
Ned Paulsen
 
 
In a message dated 8/28/2008 3:40:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jobu53 at hotmail.com writes:

If you  are using a Pertronix system, you need to grind down the rotor so it
sits  farther down on the shaft. I have seen a few dizzy's where rotors were
not  taken down and there is a lot of black dust inside the dizzy. I saw  one
where the center electrode was completely worn away. Dan Serrao1963  BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Get  ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to  share.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
_Gallery_082008
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  npaul72464 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive





**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Aug 28 16:07:36 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:07:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies, Fw: How do you decide whom to marry?
Message-ID: <016301c9095a$7ab308f0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Kids always give an honest answer........





  HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHOM TO MARRY?

  (written by kids)

  You got to find somebody who likes the same stuff. Like, if you like sports,
she should like it that you like sports, and she should keep the chips and dip
coming.
  Alan, age 10

  No person really decides before they grow up who they're going to marry. God
decides it all way before, and you get to find out later who you're stuck
with.
  Kristen, age 10

  WHAT IS THE RIGHT AGE TO GET MARRIED?
  Twenty-three is the best age because you know the person FOREVER by then.
  Camille, age 10

  HOW CAN A STRANGER TELL IF TWO PEOPLE ARE MARRIED?
  You might have to guess, based on whether they seem to be yelling at the
same kids.
  Derrick, age 8

  WHAT DO YOU THINK YOUR MOM AND DAD HAVE IN COMMON?
  Both don't want any more kids.
  Lori, age 8

  WHAT DO MOST PEOPLE DO ON A DATE?
  Dates are for having fun, and people should use them to get to know each
other. Even boys have something to say if you listen long enough.
  Lynnette, age 8 (isn't she a treasure)

  On the first date, they just tell each other lies and that usually gets them
interested enough to go for a second date.
  Martin, age 10

  WHAT WOULD YOU DO ON A FIRST DATE THAT WAS TURNING SOUR?
  I'd run home and play dead. The next day I would call all the newspapers and
make sure they wrote about me in all the dead columns.
  Craig, age 9

  WHEN IS IT OKAY TO KISS SOMEONE?
  When they're rich.
  Pam, age 7
  The law says you have to be eighteen, so I wouldn't want to mess with that.
  Curt, age 7
  The rule goes like this: If you kiss someone, then you should marry them and
have kids with them. It's the right thing to do.
  Howard, age 8

  IS IT BETTER TO BE SINGLE OR MARRIED?
  It's better for girls to be single but not for boys. Boys need someone to
clean up after them.
  Anita, age 9 (bless you child)

  HOW WOULD THE WORLD BE DIFFERENT IF PEOPLE DIDN'T GET MARRIED?
  There sure would be a lot of kids to explain, wouldn't there?
  Kelvin, age 8

  And the #1 Favorite is........
  HOW WOULD YOU MAKE A MARRIAGE WORK?
  Tell your wife that she looks pretty, even if she looks like a dump truck.
  Ricky, age 10
  _____________________________________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 16:17:05 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:17:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rotors - it happened ....
In-Reply-To: <c3c.3cbf745b.35e87255@aol.com>
References: <c3c.3cbf745b.35e87255@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808281517k7df9f6a0ha3de82ceb047b407@mail.gmail.com>

The way the magnet sleeve fits over the dist. cam, you can't really
design the sleeve to have the rotor sit lower without compromising its
strength.  The only way to do this would be to combine the rotor with
the magnet sleeve in one special unit - $$$$.

The easiest option is to shave a hair off the bottom of the rotor
(only if you have to!) - that will not cause problems with a good
quality rotor.

On 8/29/08, NPaul72464 at aol.com <NPaul72464 at aol.com> wrote:
> It seems to me that the electronic ignition company should reduce the
> height
> of the magnet sleeve so that they fit intended distributors.
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7
>
>
> In a message dated 8/28/2008 5:01:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> price at advocateadvisors.com writes:
>
> Wouldn't  you think someone would make quality rotor that would accomodate
> the  dimentions of an electronic ignition without having to go to your shop
> and
> grind it?
> ------Original Message------
> From: Dan
> Sender:  healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
> To:  healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Aug 28, 2008 2:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys]  Rotors - it happened ....
>
> If you are using a Pertronix system, you need  to grind down the rotor so it
> sits farther down on the shaft. I have seen a  few dizzy's where rotors were
> not taken down and there is a lot of black  dust inside the dizzy. I saw one
> where the center electrode was completely  worn away. Dan Serrao1963  BJ7
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get  ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to  share.
> http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Photo
> _Gallery_082008
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You  are subscribed as  price at advocateadvisors.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> Sent  via BlackBerry by  AT&T
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You  are subscribed as  npaul72464 at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
> travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From 1968xke at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 16:46:18 2008
From: 1968xke at gmail.com (Randall Harris)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:46:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Phil Hill
In-Reply-To: <c54.32c1dac6.35e872e2@aol.com>
References: <c54.32c1dac6.35e872e2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <82e6c8990808281546u58f52b95r292f0a208e26d4de@mail.gmail.com>

Sad news indeed.  A marvelous sportsman and great ambassador of the vintage
car community.
RIP
Randy

On Thu, Aug 28, 2008 at 2:30 PM, <Editorgary at aol.com> wrote:

> This news has reached several of my lists, so I don't want the Healey list
> to
> miss it.
>
> This morning at 10:30 am, at the hospital in Monterey, where he had just
> been
> an honored guest at the Monterey HIstoric Automobile Races, Phil Hill
> passed
> away from complications of Parkinson's Disease. Phil was a true American
> hero
> in motorsports, and the first American to be the Formula 1 World Champion,
> driving a Ferrari.   I'm grateful that I had the chance to see his victory
> laps
> at the end of a long and courageous life, when he was driven around Laguna
> Seca
> at the Monterey Historics in the Alfa in which he won the Pebble Beach
> races
> Gary
>
>
> **************
> It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
> travel deal here.
>
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as 1968xke at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 16:55:39 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 15:55:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey related Placemats
In-Reply-To: <48B6BA1D.7080609@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <516567.19103.qm@web83309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Cindy ... YES , they will be available by mid September .. Norman Nock


--- On Thu, 8/28/08, Cindy Vrugtman <cjvrugtman at htcnet.org> wrote:

> From: Cindy Vrugtman <cjvrugtman at htcnet.org>
> Subject: Healey related Placemats
> To: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 7:45 AM
> In reading my husbands email Healey messages, I wanted to
> tell you I am 
> interested in the download of the placemats.  I hope you
> put the 
> download on your site in mid-September.
> 
> Thank you,
> Cindy Vrugtman
> Hightown, VA

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Aug 28 17:05:49 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 23:05:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Running engine
Message-ID: <082820082305.7516.48B72F4D000179D200001D5C220073436404040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Sounds like the Pertronix isn't wired correctly.  


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: gardner5 at comcast.net
> Just finishing up my BN2 engine rebuild.  The engine keeps running after the 
> ignition is shut off.  Idle is set below spec., timing 6 degrees, and it does 
> have a Petronix ignitor.  Any ideas? 
>  
> Joel

From lapierrem at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 17:47:41 2008
From: lapierrem at sbcglobal.net (Mark LaPierre)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 19:47:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8
References: <000c01c90716$406510d0$6400a8c0@Hypro34><BAY139-W217A931CB1CCF3A7CBC9ACB3660@phx.gbl><BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EA0@s07.frakes-eng.com>
	<004701c90951$0e7af570$2b70e050$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <001c01c90968$76f471f0$f929e046@markl946cfrd7q>

And the alternator install kit with brackets and belt adjuster,  right?  Or 
did you come
up with a different bracket configuration?

The diagram didn't come across to the list so I can't see what you sent, 
sorry.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "'Frakes, Jim'" <jimf at frakes-eng.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8


> Jim, here is a diagram for adding a Delco-Remy SI-10 alternator to a BJ8.
> This is how I did it. The only thing required besides the alternator 
> itself
> is a plug with pigtail, which is also available from NAPA.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Frakes, Jim
> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 11:20 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Gen to Alternator Conversion Diagram BJ8
>
> Anybody out there have a diagram of how to convert on BJ8? The one I
> have is for a Sprite and the older style regulator.
> Need ASAP. I searched the HML Archives but found a LOT of talk about the
> alternators / generators but no one seemed to have a diagram.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jimf at frakes-eng.com
>
>
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of 
> the
> individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain 
> information
> that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this message is not
> the
> intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to
> the
> intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
> distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have
> received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number
> listed above or by return e-mail.
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as sbyers at ec.rr.com
>
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>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.9/1637 - Release Date: 8/27/2008
> 7:01 AM
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
> Alternator wiring diagram.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> You are subscribed as lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
>
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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 28 17:52:35 2008
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:52:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Numbers
Message-ID: <33838.11056.qm@web31504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just picked up a 3 speed box and overdrive.  The trans has the number
981stamped on it and the overdrive has a brass plate stamped 1292/227.  I know
the 1292 identifies the overdrive as a 28% unit but does anyone have a guess
if the other numbers have an significance.  Thanks

Joe
BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
BN2 100M
BJ8 "The Blue Baby" what my wife a daughter have called the car for the last
28 years

From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Thu Aug 28 17:57:14 2008
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 16:57:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tail Light Bolt Size
Message-ID: <48720d20808281657u7d1e353ft530502c228b3e062@mail.gmail.com>

My two tail/stop/turn signal light hare held on by three bolts each. Can
anyone tell me their specs?

Thanks,

Jack

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 28 18:04:36 2008
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:04:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] HT ignition
Message-ID: <266536.69577.qm@web83309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

The HT spark from a points type ignition is low voltage when it is 
 compared to the very high voltage of the electronic HT spark ... 
the electronic spark is ALWAYS at its maximum HIGH voltage , but a points type ignition in dependent on how fast the distributor points separate , ie the faster the engine RPM the higher the HT voltage , upto a certain point 

THE HT SPARK can travel along the surface area of a insulator rather that jump the gap of a spark plug , so a rotor arm , a coil , distributor cap 
 have a large surface area to ground to prevent flash over to ground ,
the rotor for electronic ignition has a much greater surface area than a points type distributor OEM 

 If you need to see it happen pull off a spark plug wire with the engine 
running and see the spark jump out of the coil to ground ..

ELECTRICAL POWER LINES with VERY HIGH VOLTAGE HAvE BIG INSULATORS WITH VERY LARGE SURFACe Areas
             Norman Nock

More info. Healey Marque July 2006 OR my Tech Talk book page252
SURFACE AREAS

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Aug 28 19:38:18 2008
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek and Gwen Sharp)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:38:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Grill Help !
References: <B1EFE3CE-C919-4C5D-9718-1A0D1CDB8FCE@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP157EAFA7B934B3DF0558B9C3630@phx.gbl>

David,

If it is like the "Mk I", then the hood grill is installed from the front - 
it slips into the opening in the hood and the top piece fits from the top, 
the three threaded studs going through the hood, then through the top of the 
grill and are fastened with flat and spring washers and hex nut.

Mirek

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 4:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Grill Help !


> Hello all.
> It's my understanding that the bonnet Grill in my BN7 II installed
> from the inside (backside) by hooking the lower edge of the grill over
> the turned up flange on the bonnet. and then rotating the grill
> forward and up into the Bulge.
>
>  Coming from the back The Grill ends won't allow me to push the grill
> far enough forward to hook over flange.
>
> What am I doing Wrong?
>
> Dave and Daisy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Aug 28 20:54:13 2008
From: shop at justbrits.com (Ed's Shop)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:54:13 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: [Mgs] Phil Hill
Message-ID: <CAEFIEOOGMCKMBLEKCFNGEHNCPAA.shop@justbrits.com>

-----Original Message-----
From:
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 4:21 PM
To:  MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Phil Hill


Nice memoir by Denise McCluggage -

http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080828/FREE/808289987/1
024/rss01&rssfeed=rss01

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Thu Aug 28 20:01:28 2008
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 22:01:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question
References: <016301c9095a$7ab308f0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EC3@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Listers,

Thanks for all the replies as to the conversion of mounting the
alternator in place of the generator.

Obviously I was not clear what I was looking for. I have the alternator
installed, belt on and adjusted, brown wire connected to alternator.

I gutted the regulator, and expect to make the connections inside the
cover, using the same wiring connections to the connectors outside the
reg box. My question is what wires connect to what inside the box. I am
aware the ground is no longer used.

Thanks,

Jim

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the
individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information
that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the
intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have
received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number
listed above or by return e-mail.

From insptwo at msn.com  Thu Aug 28 20:37:22 2008
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 22:37:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: another blonde joke,early friday funny
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W42B9C5267FB074E9BE0F0EC8630@phx.gbl>
References: <255614.51501.qm@web62006.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
	<D55D711D-BBB0-4474-BD28-91507FCCB7F2@comcast.net> 
	<BAY110-W42B9C5267FB074E9BE0F0EC8630@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W52067AC623F2EE4BA1E011AD630@phx.gbl>

God Loves Blondes
A blonde finds herself in serious trouble.





Her business has gone bust and she's in dire financial straits. She's
desperate so she decides to ask God for help.
She begins to pray... 'God, please help me. I've lost my business and if I
don't get some money, I'm going to lose my house as well. Please let me win
the lottery.' Lottery night comes, and somebody else wins. She again prays:
'God, please let me win the lottery! I've lost my business, my house and I'm
going to lose my car as well.' Lottery night comes and she still has no luck.
Once again, she prays: 'My God, why have you forsaken me? I've lost my
business, my house, and my car. My children are starving. I don't often ask
You for help, and I've always been a good servant to You. 'PLEASE let me win
the lottery just this one time so I can get my life back in order.'
Suddenly there is a blinding flash of light as the heavens open. The blonde is
overwhelmed by the Voice of God, Himself.... 'Sweetheart, work with Me on
this.... Buy a ticket.'










See what people are saying about Windows Live. Check out featured posts. Check
It Out!

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Aug 28 21:07:03 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:07:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EC3@s07.frakes-eng.com>
References: <016301c9095a$7ab308f0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EC3@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <000901c90984$4ff7e930$efe7bb90$@rr.com>

Jim, with the regulator gutted the regulator box becomes a junction box.
There is no wiring to be done inside the box, but the wiring for the
alternator installation is simply connected to the terminals of the
regulator box as shown on the diagram.

I did not gut my regulator, but just disabled its function by unsoldering
two small coil wires from the top tab, and one from the bottom, then
insulating the ends.  To return the regulator to its normal function (if
anyone ever desires to do so), just resolder the wires.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Frakes, Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:01 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question

Listers,

Thanks for all the replies as to the conversion of mounting the
alternator in place of the generator.

Obviously I was not clear what I was looking for. I have the alternator
installed, belt on and adjusted, brown wire connected to alternator.

I gutted the regulator, and expect to make the connections inside the
cover, using the same wiring connections to the connectors outside the
reg box. My question is what wires connect to what inside the box. I am
aware the ground is no longer used.

Thanks,

Jim

From j.aeckerlin at gmail.com  Fri Aug 29 02:16:27 2008
From: j.aeckerlin at gmail.com (Jaap Aeckerlin)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:16:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fliday funny
Message-ID: <4e23c7250808290116w73adcef4we19a592200ed5396@mail.gmail.com>

Hung Chow calls into work and says "Hey, I no come to work today, I really
sick. Got headache, stomach ache and legs hurt, I no come work."

The boss says "You know something, Hung Chow, I really need you today. When
I feel sick like you do, I go to my wife and tell her to give me Sex. That
makes everything better and I go to work. You try that."

Two hours later Hung Chow calls again. "I do what you say and I feel great.
I be at work soon.......you got nice house!"

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

From bighealey at charter.net  Fri Aug 29 05:54:20 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 04:54:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EC3@s07.frakes-eng.com>
Message-ID: <AB2106A7056141959E11640A36C78939@TRACY>

Jim,

Inside I glued a flat piece of plastic.  On the back side I soldered (took
awhile because it is a lot of metal to heat up) the connectors together to
make it a buss bar.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Frakes, Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:01 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question

Listers,

Thanks for all the replies as to the conversion of mounting the
alternator in place of the generator.

Obviously I was not clear what I was looking for. I have the alternator
installed, belt on and adjusted, brown wire connected to alternator.

I gutted the regulator, and expect to make the connections inside the
cover, using the same wiring connections to the connectors outside the
reg box. My question is what wires connect to what inside the box. I am
aware the ground is no longer used.

Thanks,

Jim

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the
individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information
that is privileged or confidential.  If the reader of this message is not
the
intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to
the
intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have
received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number
listed above or by return e-mail.
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From bobw at gmnameplate.com  Fri Aug 29 09:13:30 2008
From: bobw at gmnameplate.com (Bob Welch)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:13:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] waterpump repair - Western Washignton / Puget sound area
Message-ID: <A601224F6379CB40AEDF18AAA882AD9D014913400A@pandora.gmname.local>

My 1960 BN7 is a bit of a survivor and pretty much original bumper to
bumper..nothing
showable but original and a driver...had it sine 1971..and most parts are
repaired rather than replaced.

My water pump has started to weep. I have a new pump from Mr. Nock which can
keep me on the road just fine but would appreciate any info anyone has
regarding a repair
shop in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area that could rebuild my original.


Thanks for any and all help.

Bob Welch

1960 BN7

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Fri Aug 29 09:22:40 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 09:22:40 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] water pump repair - Western Washington / Puget sound
 area
In-Reply-To: <A601224F6379CB40AEDF18AAA882AD9D014913400A@pandora.gmname.local>
Message-ID: <20080829152227.CDF1E187894@autox.team.net>

Check with Dave Adams at Lake Oswego Restorations outside Portland, OR.
503-636-7503  He may know someone in your area.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Welch
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 9:14 AM
To: 'Healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] waterpump repair - Western Washignton / Puget sound area

My 1960 BN7 is a bit of a survivor and pretty much original bumper to
bumper..nothing
showable but original and a driver...had it sine 1971..and most parts are
repaired rather than replaced.

My water pump has started to weep. I have a new pump from Mr. Nock which can
keep me on the road just fine but would appreciate any info anyone has
regarding a repair
shop in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area that could rebuild my original.


Thanks for any and all help.

Bob Welch

1960 BN7
_______________________________________________

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 09:50:48 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:50:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] water pump repair - Western Washington / Puget sound
 area
In-Reply-To: <20080829152227.CDF1E187894@autox.team.net>
References: <A601224F6379CB40AEDF18AAA882AD9D014913400A@pandora.gmname.local>
	<20080829152227.CDF1E187894@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004a01c909ef$01b40ae0$051c20a0$@rr.com>

Doesn't Bill Bolton in Creswell, OR rebuild waterpumps?  I sent him my old
one and got back a rebuilt one (not the same as the one I sent), but that
was several years ago.  

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Porter
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 8:23 AM
To: 'Bob Welch'; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] water pump repair - Western Washington / Puget sound
area

Check with Dave Adams at Lake Oswego Restorations outside Portland, OR.
503-636-7503  He may know someone in your area.
Dave

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Welch
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 9:14 AM
To: 'Healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] waterpump repair - Western Washignton / Puget sound area

My 1960 BN7 is a bit of a survivor and pretty much original bumper to
bumper..nothing showable but original and a driver...had it sine 1971..and
most parts are repaired rather than replaced.

My water pump has started to weep. I have a new pump from Mr. Nock which can
keep me on the road just fine but would appreciate any info anyone has
regarding a repair shop in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area that could
rebuild my original.


Thanks for any and all help.

Bob Welch

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug 29 09:58:24 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 11:58:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tail Light Bolt Size
References: <48720d20808281657u7d1e353ft530502c228b3e062@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <020201c909f0$119f1890$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Hello Jack,

The part number for these screws as listed in the original BMC Spare Parts 
List is PMZ 0207. This translates to a pan head Phillips zinc plated number 
6 machine screw x 7/16" long.

Rich Chrysler


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Tail Light Bolt Size


> My two tail/stop/turn signal light hare held on by three bolts each. Can
> anyone tell me their specs?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Aug 29 10:34:11 2008
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 12:34:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Numbers
References: <33838.11056.qm@web31504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <022d01c909f5$115ee900$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>

Joe,

Gearbox 981 tells me that it's an early BN1 box with the earlier set of 
gears, not interchangeable with gears in boxes after 5145 unless in complete 
sets. The o/d number is for the 28% ratio, and again, with suffix 227 it's 
an early number.

Rich Chrysler


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jomar healey" <ah53 at yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Numbers


>I just picked up a 3 speed box and overdrive.  The trans has the number
> 981stamped on it and the overdrive has a brass plate stamped 1292/227.  I 
> know
> the 1292 identifies the overdrive as a 28% unit but does anyone have a 
> guess
> if the other numbers have an significance.  Thanks
>
> Joe
> BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
> BN2 100M
> BJ8 "The Blue Baby" what my wife a daughter have called the car for the 
> last
> 28 years
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Aug 29 11:04:42 2008
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:04:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <000901c90984$4ff7e930$efe7bb90$@rr.com>
References: <016301c9095a$7ab308f0$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
	<BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E43A9EC3@s07.frakes-eng.com> 
	<000901c90984$4ff7e930$efe7bb90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W3149EA6D2C05D6913F35E6A5630@phx.gbl>

Another option is to purchase a four gang terminal strip (any hardware store
has them) and replace the regulator altogether. The one I put on my old landie
even used the same screw holes as the RB 106 regulator.

Bill Lawrence
----------------------------------------
> From: sbyers at ec.rr.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:07:03 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator Question
>
> Jim, with the regulator gutted the regulator box becomes a junction box.
> There is no wiring to be done inside the box, but the wiring for the
> alternator installation is simply connected to the terminals of the
> regulator box as shown on the diagram.
>
> I did not gut my regulator, but just disabled its function by unsoldering
> two small coil wires from the top tab, and one from the bottom, then
> insulating the ends.  To return the regulator to its normal function (if
> anyone ever desires to do so), just resolder the wires.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Frakes, Jim
> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:01 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Alternator Question
>
> Listers,
>
> Thanks for all the replies as to the conversion of mounting the
> alternator in place of the generator.
>
> Obviously I was not clear what I was looking for. I have the alternator
> installed, belt on and adjusted, brown wire connected to alternator.
>
> I gutted the regulator, and expect to make the connections inside the
> cover, using the same wiring connections to the connectors outside the
> reg box. My question is what wires connect to what inside the box. I am
> aware the ground is no longer used.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as ynotink at msn.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Fri Aug 29 12:34:53 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 19:34:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Numbers
In-Reply-To: <022d01c909f5$115ee900$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
References: <33838.11056.qm@web31504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<022d01c909f5$115ee900$0ff1fea9@ophrdc.org>
Message-ID: <Uw9dUIDNFEuIFwK9@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Rich

I hope that you will not mind me adding here a word of caution.

If the gearbox has been repaired and service kit - 58G 341 - fitted then 
it might have the later set of three gears fitted.  I have found quite a 
few early gearboxes that have been repaired using the service kit and 
not one had any external marking to say that is was different from when 
it was first manufactured.

regards

>Joe,
>
>Gearbox 981 tells me that it's an early BN1 box with the earlier set of
>gears, not interchangeable with gears in boxes after 5145 unless in complete
>sets. The o/d number is for the 28% ratio, and again, with suffix 227 it's
>an early number.
>
>Rich Chrysler
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jomar healey" <ah53 at yahoo.com>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:52 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Numbers
>
>
>>I just picked up a 3 speed box and overdrive.  The trans has the number
>> 981stamped on it and the overdrive has a brass plate stamped 1292/227.  I
>> know
>> the 1292 identifies the overdrive as a 28% unit but does anyone have a
>> guess
>> if the other numbers have an significance.  Thanks
>>
>> Joe
>> BN1 #923 Coronet Cream
>> BN2 100M
>> BJ8 "The Blue Baby" what my wife a daughter have called the car for the
>> last
>> 28 years
-- 
John Harper

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Fri Aug 29 15:41:13 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 21:41:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft seal kit
Message-ID: <082920082141.19466.48B86CF90001E94500004C0A220699973597900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Greetings listers-

I just finished installing the Dennis Welch crank, which I sourced from the Nocks. The kit was an easy install, but the engine was out of vehicle. I have to say, Norman and David were very helpful when I called with a few questions about installation, and I really appreciated them both having the knowledge and taking the time to share it with me.

The archives were also a big help, and I'd like to thank all of the contributors to the various related threads. You all get two thumbs up.

Cheers, Tom

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Fri Aug 29 15:55:05 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 21:55:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Color Underneath
Message-ID: <082920082155.3521.48B87039000DBF2D00000DC1220076139497900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Thanks to all of you who replied on and off list. I believe that I will follow your advice on color, but I will have to mimic the factory "underspray" as it were, as I will painting the car in stages following the installation of wiring and drivetrain. 

In five months time, I have reached the stage of a body-off where the pieces are going back on, and the finish coat is now on the frame and bulkheads. 

My BJ7 project will have to wait a little longer for the final coats, however, as my affliction seems to have  worsened.  I have taken to plating and polishing nuts, bolts and even throttle linkages. A badly scored release lever plate has dashed my hopes of getting the engine and tranny in before summer ends. All in all, though, the car has come a long way and I could never have accomplished this much in such a short time without the experience shared here on the list.

Have  a great weekend!

Tom

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Aug 29 16:30:16 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:30:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft seal kit
Message-ID: <20080829223016.CDOZ13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

I had the rear engine oil seal, sold by the Nock's, installed in my BJ8 several years ago, and my mechanic raved about the quality of it. Good to have that kind of service and expertise on line with us!
> 
> From: tomleavy at comcast.net
> Date: 2008/08/29 Fri PM 05:41:13 EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft seal kit
> 
> Greetings listers-
> 
> I just finished installing the Dennis Welch crank, which I sourced from the Nocks. The kit was an easy install, but the engine was out of vehicle. I have to say, Norman and David were very helpful when I called with a few questions about installation, and I really appreciated them both having the knowledge and taking the time to share it with me.
> 
> The archives were also a big help, and I'd like to thank all of the contributors to the various related threads. You all get two thumbs up.
> 
> Cheers, Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 29 18:37:37 2008
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
Message-ID: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

List,
I'm putting a BJ8 together slowly. I have installed a Lenschow alternator conversion and purchased a fan belt from one of our leading suppliers. 
I simply asked for a late BJ8 fan belt, the alternator intructions imply to use the original fan belt. 
Today the new fan belt is agood 1/2 inch short of being installed. 
Does anyone have a NAPA part number for a fan belt to fit a late BJ8 with an alternator?
The belt I have is labeled 77x1100, 77 seems good but not the 1100.
Bob
BJ8 going together slowly
BT7
AN5

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Fri Aug 29 18:51:46 2008
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 20:51:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4D67ED04-6182-4462-A225-8FB879339ACD@gmail.com>

NAPA #7455

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Aug 29, 2008, at 8:37 PM, Bob Brown wrote:

> List,
> I'm putting a BJ8 together slowly. I have installed a Lenschow  
> alternator conversion and purchased a fan belt from one of our  
> leading suppliers.
> I simply asked for a late BJ8 fan belt, the alternator intructions  
> imply to use the original fan belt.
> Today the new fan belt is agood 1/2 inch short of being installed.
> Does anyone have a NAPA part number for a fan belt to fit a late BJ8  
> with an alternator?
> The belt I have is labeled 77x1100, 77 seems good but not the 1100.
> Bob
> BJ8 going together slowly
> BT7
> AN5
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Fri Aug 29 19:00:28 2008
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 21:00:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt _ Correction
In-Reply-To: <4D67ED04-6182-4462-A225-8FB879339ACD@gmail.com>
References: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<4D67ED04-6182-4462-A225-8FB879339ACD@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1F44AB7F-B1C0-497B-92EE-39EB7FA7CAEE@gmail.com>

NAPA #15455 (7/16X45X1/8)

or

NAPA #25-7455

Seems both numbers work.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Aug 29, 2008, at 8:51 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> NAPA #7455
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2008, at 8:37 PM, Bob Brown wrote:
>
>> List,
>> I'm putting a BJ8 together slowly. I have installed a Lenschow
>> alternator conversion and purchased a fan belt from one of our
>> leading suppliers.
>> I simply asked for a late BJ8 fan belt, the alternator intructions
>> imply to use the original fan belt.
>> Today the new fan belt is agood 1/2 inch short of being installed.
>> Does anyone have a NAPA part number for a fan belt to fit a late BJ8
>> with an alternator?
>> The belt I have is labeled 77x1100, 77 seems good but not the 1100.
>> Bob
>> BJ8 going together slowly
>> BT7
>> AN5
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey100m at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Aug 29 19:07:39 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:07:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <891642.47079.qm@web83901.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009b01c90a3c$cc7428d0$655c7a70$@rr.com>

Bob, I installed the Lenschow kit (P/N ALT-2163) on my late BJ8 in 2002.
The instructions that came with the kit said that "Fan belt must be one size
larger with this kit, NAPA #15455  7/16 X 45 X 1/8"
I found this belt to be too short to install.  The NAPA guy replaced it with
one that did fit and it's still on my car.  NAPA P/N is 25-9451.  The Gates
equivalent is 31/64 X 45 X 3/8

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Brown
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 5:38 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt

List,
I'm putting a BJ8 together slowly. I have installed a Lenschow alternator
conversion and purchased a fan belt from one of our leading suppliers. 
I simply asked for a late BJ8 fan belt, the alternator intructions imply to
use the original fan belt. 
Today the new fan belt is agood 1/2 inch short of being installed. 
Does anyone have a NAPA part number for a fan belt to fit a late BJ8 with an
alternator?
The belt I have is labeled 77x1100, 77 seems good but not the 1100.
Bob

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Aug 29 20:11:13 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 22:11:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
Message-ID: <20080830021113.OSFJ13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Hey Steve---your "late" BJ8?  did it die?:):):)

tom 
> 
> From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Date: 2008/08/29 Fri PM 09:07:39 EDT
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
> 
> Bob, I installed the Lenschow kit (P/N ALT-2163) on my late BJ8 in 2002.
> The instructions that came with the kit said that "Fan belt must be one size
> larger with this kit, NAPA #15455  7/16 X 45 X 1/8"
> I found this belt to be too short to install.  The NAPA guy replaced it with
> one that did fit and it's still on my car.  NAPA P/N is 25-9451.  The Gates
> equivalent is 31/64 X 45 X 3/8
> 
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Brown
> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 5:38 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fan Belt
> 
> List,
> I'm putting a BJ8 together slowly. I have installed a Lenschow alternator
> conversion and purchased a fan belt from one of our leading suppliers. 
> I simply asked for a late BJ8 fan belt, the alternator intructions imply to
> use the original fan belt. 
> Today the new fan belt is agood 1/2 inch short of being installed. 
> Does anyone have a NAPA part number for a fan belt to fit a late BJ8 with an
> alternator?
> The belt I have is labeled 77x1100, 77 seems good but not the 1100.
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Aug 30 06:15:24 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 12:15:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Assembly
Message-ID: <083020081215.8117.48B939DC00075D5600001FB5220642441397900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Hi Listers-

I could use some input on the correct reassembly of a centershift tranny. I just changed the input oil seal, and had the bellhousing off. That was easy enough, and back together it went.

I only came to realize that there is a buffer in the bellhousing, listed as part #3 in the factory gearbox diagram. Of course, I came to this realization after the whole thing was reassembled and threads sealed between gearbox and bellhousing. Is this buffer really necessary, and what may happen if I don't install it?

My second concern is that the diagram shows parts #36, 37 and 38 (circlip, plate and spring, respectively). I found and reinstalled only the plate and spring during my disassembly and that's how it went back together. So do I need to also install the circlip? How important is the spacing in this region? I'm thinking that since there is a spring shim involved it will take up the slack.

Finally, my third question is in regard to the rear (overdrive) oil seal. It would appear that I just pull off the rear flange, and then prise out the oil seal from the case. Any advice from listers that have successfully removed the seal? WHat did you use to grab the seal? I am afraid that if after 45 years the seal does not want to release itself from its'home, I may scratch the output shaft in the struggle. 

As always, your wisdom is appreciated.

Tom

From healeymonster at fastwave.biz  Sat Aug 30 08:13:10 2008
From: healeymonster at fastwave.biz (Ed Townley)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 08:13:10 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
Message-ID: <001001c90aaa$8820f870$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>

Ladies and Gents:
Regarding the recent discussion on the rare (according to the BMH
certificate) black BJ8, and the air force/army sergeant owner who is
confined to quarters, or something-----
I did a rainy sat. morning search on craigslist and found the identical
listing about 75 different places, from Buffalo, NY to Guam, where it
was listed under boats!!!
I flagged each one I saw as Spam, and as I was the second flag on some,
it will be removed--however, as I was the first flagger (is that a
word?)on some, those will not be flagged for removal until someone else
flags as well.
So, if anyone else is getting rain or otherwise has a few minutes, you
might want to do the following search for all these listings and see if
any are still out there-- 

Go to google and paste this phrase in the search block-- 

site:craigslist.org austin healey 3000


Wonder who Really owns that car???

Cheers,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.13/1641 - Release Date:
8/29/2008 7:07 AM

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Aug 30 08:37:59 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 14:37:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <083020081437.16093.48B95B4700028E5D00003EDD220699849997900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Hi Jim-

Thanks for the advice. What was the thickness of the leather, if you remember? 
Did you fasten it itno place, or just press it in. I'd be leary of not securing 
it for fear that it will come loose and disintegrate down the drain passage 
toward the front bearing.

I seem to remember a post that mentioned the use of asphalt or vinyl floor tile 
for the buffer, but I wonder if the leather will hold up better in the petroleum 
environment of the gearbox.

What was your experience with the 3 spacers between the output shaft bearing and 
the bellhousing? I know that they're (probably) there for a reason, but I don't 
even know where to begin searching for them. Any ideas?

Thanks, Tom

From bighealey at charter.net  Sat Aug 30 11:06:16 2008
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 10:06:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Assembly
In-Reply-To: <083020081215.8117.48B939DC00075D5600001FB5220642441397900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <936A8F317B944EF4BD8DBE1CAD2B2A03@TRACY>

Tom,

These buffers help to keep the selector shafts from traveling too far.  If
they travel too far the springs and detent balls can come out and end up in
the bottom of the tranny.  I recommend going back and installing them on
both bell housing and OD adapter plate.  Others may have different opinions
and suggestions for the material to use.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
tomleavy at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 5:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Assembly

Hi Listers-

I could use some input on the correct reassembly of a centershift tranny. I
just changed the input oil seal, and had the bellhousing off. That was easy
enough, and back together it went.

I only came to realize that there is a buffer in the bellhousing, listed as
part #3 in the factory gearbox diagram. Of course, I came to this
realization after the whole thing was reassembled and threads sealed between
gearbox and bellhousing. Is this buffer really necessary, and what may
happen if I don't install it?

My second concern is that the diagram shows parts #36, 37 and 38 (circlip,
plate and spring, respectively). I found and reinstalled only the plate and
spring during my disassembly and that's how it went back together. So do I
need to also install the circlip? How important is the spacing in this
region? I'm thinking that since there is a spring shim involved it will take
up the slack.

Finally, my third question is in regard to the rear (overdrive) oil seal. It
would appear that I just pull off the rear flange, and then prise out the
oil seal from the case. Any advice from listers that have successfully
removed the seal? WHat did you use to grab the seal? I am afraid that if
after 45 years the seal does not want to release itself from its'home, I may
scratch the output shaft in the struggle.

As always, your wisdom is appreciated.

Tom
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Aug 30 11:33:56 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:33:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Assembly
Message-ID: <083020081733.8578.48B984840003A6AF00002182220073407697900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Hi Tracy-

I didn't even realize that there was a rear buffer. Regarding ending up in the bottom, one of the detent springs was broken when I disassembled (now I know why), and part of the spring had worked its way down past the two plates at the input bearing. I probably should replace, but don't know where to source the plates. 

BTW, Does anyone know where I can source the three plates at the input bearing/bellhousing?

--
Thomas Leavy
451 Branchport Avenue
Oceanport, NJ 07757
(908) 433-9322

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
> Tom,
> 
> These buffers help to keep the selector shafts from traveling too far.  If
> they travel too far the springs and detent balls can come out and end up in
> the bottom of the tranny.  I recommend going back and installing them on
> both bell housing and OD adapter plate.  Others may have different opinions
> and suggestions for the material to use.
> 
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From dthall at btinternet.com  Sat Aug 30 11:49:21 2008
From: dthall at btinternet.com (D HALL)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:49:21 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
Message-ID: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Dear Listers
  It may be contentious to some but, has anyone had or know of power steering being  fitted to a big Healey.
  We at college in the Motor Engineering department are considering it as a project for the students in the upcoming term.
  We have some experience with one being fitted to Rover 95.
  As always your help would be appreciated.
  Best regards David


David Hall

From al at bighealey.org  Sat Aug 30 13:30:01 2008
From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 15:30:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <001001c90aaa$8820f870$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>
Message-ID: <005901c90ad6$ccdd8b00$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>

Well - I've done my part.  I went thru seven (7) pages of Craigslist
postings and found this car posted coast to coast.  I flagged about thirty
(30)instances of the ad as spam.

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed
Townley
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

Ladies and Gents:
Regarding the recent discussion on the rare (according to the BMH
certificate) black BJ8, and the air force/army sergeant owner who is
confined to quarters, or something-----
I did a rainy sat. morning search on craigslist and found the identical
listing about 75 different places, from Buffalo, NY to Guam, where it
was listed under boats!!!
I flagged each one I saw as Spam, and as I was the second flag on some,
it will be removed--however, as I was the first flagger (is that a
word?)on some, those will not be flagged for removal until someone else
flags as well.
So, if anyone else is getting rain or otherwise has a few minutes, you
might want to do the following search for all these listings and see if
any are still out there--

Go to google and paste this phrase in the search block--

site:craigslist.org austin healey 3000


Wonder who Really owns that car???

Cheers,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.13/1641 - Release Date:
8/29/2008 7:07 AM

From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 13:54:12 2008
From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 15:54:12 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
Message-ID: <bb8.37e65566.35eaff64@aol.com>

Following suit, I just did my part also, went through 8 pages of google,  
flagged at least 25 of this same car. Wouldn't it be great though to actually  
find the Tech Sargeant? Oh well, at least this is a good start.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Aug 30 14:03:30 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 14:03:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <bb8.37e65566.35eaff64@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080830200318.7544D18764F@autox.team.net>

I reported it to the FBI Internet scam dept. Google IC3.gov


frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of ATIGHTPROD at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 1:54 PM
To: al at bighealey.org; healeymonster at fastwave.biz; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

Following suit, I just did my part also, went through 8 pages of google,  
flagged at least 25 of this same car. Wouldn't it be great though to
actually  
find the Tech Sargeant? Oh well, at least this is a good start.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as frogeye at porterscustom.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 14:16:41 2008
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 16:16:41 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Underspray
Message-ID: <c0a.43b46d00.35eb04a9@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/30/08 10:35:15 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> I believe that I will follow your advice on color, but I will have to mimic 
> the factory "underspray" as it were,
> 

What are you defining as the characteristics of "the factory 'underspray'"?
Cheers
Gary


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From rthrift at cox.net  Sat Aug 30 14:51:14 2008
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:51:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <005901c90ad6$ccdd8b00$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
Message-ID: <20080830165114.18PJJ.38749.imail@fed1rmwml41>

But it's not spam, it IS fraud. Does Craigslist have its own mechanism for dealing with FRAUD?  

Richard Thrift

---- Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org> wrote: 
Well - I've done my part.  I went thru seven (7) pages of Craigslist
postings and found this car posted coast to coast.  I flagged about thirty
(30)instances of the ad as spam.

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

Quality Systems Consulting
Software Quality, Validation + 21 CFR Part  11

714.335.0248
 www.fullercompliance.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+al=bighealey.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed
Townley
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

Ladies and Gents:
Regarding the recent discussion on the rare (according to the BMH
certificate) black BJ8, and the air force/army sergeant owner who is
confined to quarters, or something-----
I did a rainy sat. morning search on craigslist and found the identical
listing about 75 different places, from Buffalo, NY to Guam, where it
was listed under boats!!!
I flagged each one I saw as Spam, and as I was the second flag on some,
it will be removed--however, as I was the first flagger (is that a
word?)on some, those will not be flagged for removal until someone else
flags as well.
So, if anyone else is getting rain or otherwise has a few minutes, you
might want to do the following search for all these listings and see if
any are still out there--

Go to google and paste this phrase in the search block--

site:craigslist.org austin healey 3000


Wonder who Really owns that car???

Cheers,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sat Aug 30 15:08:46 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:08:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <20080830165114.18PJJ.38749.imail@fed1rmwml41>
References: <005901c90ad6$ccdd8b00$c801a8c0@ARIZONA>
	<20080830165114.18PJJ.38749.imail@fed1rmwml41>
Message-ID: <03a801c90ae4$97bf2ec0$c73d8c40$@net>

There is one hell of a difference between spam and fraud. Fraud is criminal.
This is fraud. Most spam is just a nuisance and usually becomes criminal
when the receiver does something STUPID  by answering it.

And, for those who are trying to find the owner of this car, good luck. It
is most probably taken from a collection of photographs readily available on
the internet or, as some have done, copying photos from brochures.

As far as I am concerned, caveat emptor. If you are naove enough to fall for
this type of listing, you deserve to be taken. That is the basis of all con
jobs. Craig's list, eBay and the like will never admit to the fact that
their sites are vehicles for fraud. To do so would open them up to
litigation.

I would prefer to use my time to keep my Healey running rather than to go
through 7 pages of nonsense as there is absolutely nothing that can be done
to stop these guys or else the Billions and billions of dollars that I have
won over the years according to the emails I get on an old email address
would be true.

Does the phrase "Peeing up a rope have a meaning?"

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
RThrift
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

But it's not spam, it IS fraud. Does Craigslist have its own mechanism for
dealing with FRAUD?

Richard Thrift

---- Al Fuller <al at bighealey.org> wrote:
Well - I've done my part.  I went thru seven (7) pages of Craigslist
postings and found this car posted coast to coast.  I flagged about thirty
(30)instances of the ad as spam.

Al Fuller
Fuller Compliance, LLC

From Gbouff1 at aol.com  Sat Aug 30 17:06:28 2008
From: Gbouff1 at aol.com (Gbouff1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 19:06:28 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud
Message-ID: <c8c.2968b23c.35eb2c74@aol.com>

My aluminum shroud has been with an individual who does some bodywork/TIG  
welding on the side for several months without any progress.
 
I was thinking about retrieving it and attempt to weld with my MIG welder,  
using the proper gas and wire of course.
 
Does anyone on the list have personal experience doing this.  If so,  were 
you successful and what are the pitfalls?
 
Gary Bouffard
Southington, Ct
BN7



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Sat Aug 30 21:17:06 2008
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 23:17:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud
References: <c8c.2968b23c.35eb2c74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C921079129C46BDA8E37BEBE1DF689C@655vb01>

Gary,
>From a welding class I took a few years ago, I recall being told that it is 
difficult to feed aluminum wire through a standard MIG gun. But I haven't 
tried it myself. Also I think it would be difficult to control the current 
and voltage on the relatively thin aluminum shroud. You have much better 
control with TIG.
Elton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gbouff1 at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 7:06 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud


> My aluminum shroud has been with an individual who does some bodywork/TIG
> welding on the side for several months without any progress.
>
> I was thinking about retrieving it and attempt to weld with my MIG welder,
> using the proper gas and wire of course.
>
> Does anyone on the list have personal experience doing this.  If so,  were
> you successful and what are the pitfalls?
>
> Gary Bouffard
> Southington, Ct
> BN7
>
>
>
> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
> travel
> deal here.
> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as eschulz at frontiernet.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tomleavy at comcast.net  Sat Aug 30 21:41:21 2008
From: tomleavy at comcast.net (tomleavy at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 03:41:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Underspray
Message-ID: <083120080341.7417.48BA12E10001F90B00001CF9220588644297900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>

Hi Gary-

What I am referring to is the factory applied paint to areas such as the under sides of the shrouds, wings, dash, etc. where paint was applied as best as could be done in an upside down position. I wouldn't call it random, it's just a result of the difficulty of reaching certain areas with the spray of paint. 

I hope that answers the question that I raised.

Tom

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Aug 30 22:00:58 2008
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 04:00:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Checking castor angle
Message-ID: <083120080400.11978.48BA177A00031A5500002ECA220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Listers,

A while back someone posted a method for checking castor angle by measuring camber at several angles of turn-in and -out.   Would that lister--or anyone else that knows the secret method--mind re-posting the instructions?

TIA,
bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sat Aug 30 23:40:46 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 22:40:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808302240l79eaade5y9111133d482c3d0d@mail.gmail.com>

http://www.rmauctions.com/CarDetails.cfm?SaleCode=MO08&CarID=r271&Currency=

this 100 m sold for an unbelievable price!!

ron rader

1965  BJ8

From rotaryman at cox.net  Sat Aug 30 23:44:37 2008
From: rotaryman at cox.net (patrick harris)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 22:44:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] mig welding shroud gary
Message-ID: <000d01c90b2c$a77ddd00$263adc48@FRYS>

Some of the newest mig set ups combined with a hand held gun spool to
eliminate friction will allow mig to weld aluminum but it will never have the
clean appearance and fine bead on this thin metal or the cleaning ability of a
hi frequency square wave type tig set up.  If you can afford it some of the
new tigs for home use are relatively cheap  under 1500.00 but you will want to
make sure it is ac/hi frequency and water cooled if possible.  Learning tig is
like anything just practice but in truth once you play with it you will love
it.  Its like gas welding with precision control of the heat.  There is
another option which some one from the group mentioned a type of gas brazing
rod especially made for dirty aluminum like our shrouds that was quite strong
and cheaper to use as you could purchase a simple mapp gas and oxygen set from
home depot and lay some rod down.  Look up the archives as I cannot remember
the name anymore of the material. pat

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sat Aug 30 23:51:27 2008
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 22:51:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <c8c.2968b23c.35eb2c74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAGEHBDKAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Gary,
I've MIGed aluminum before, but I'm not sure about doing it on the shroud.
You'd probably want to use 4043 aluminum wire, which might be too soft to go
through the gun. 5356 wire is harder (what I use) but I don't know how it
will react to the alloy of the shroud (I think that is 3003). Beyond that,
welding thin aluminum takes a fair amount of practice before getting a
useful and non damaging bead.

-----Original Message-----
My aluminum shroud has been with an individual who does some bodywork/TIG
welding on the side for several months without any progress.

I was thinking about retrieving it and attempt to weld with my MIG welder,
using the proper gas and wire of course.

Does anyone on the list have personal experience doing this.  If so,  were
you successful and what are the pitfalls?

Gary Bouffard
Southington, Ct
BN7

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun Aug 31 01:32:18 2008
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 08:32:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
In-Reply-To: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <tguTgoCCkkuIFwsI@jharper.demon.co.uk>

David

I had reason to look into this in detail on a 3000 for an A-H enthusiast 
who had only one leg. He drove with hand controls and wanted to lighten 
his steering.

We looked in some detail but the list of things that needed to be 
changed just kept growing. When the estimate reached around 6000 UK 
Pounds we abandoned the project. Just to give you some idea this is a 
summary

GM power rack fitted just behind the track rod that was split to pick up 
the central rack output.
Steering box replaced with a second idler.
New steering column inner and outer cut from a redundant box
New bracket and bearing at lower end.
Universal jointed link to rack but the radiator had to be moved or 
modified
Electric hydraulic pump with alternator necessary to drive this.
Horn and turn controls had to be left off and substitutes on stalks 
fitted.
etc. etc.

Regards
-- 
John Harper

From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk  Sun Aug 31 02:31:30 2008
From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:31:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Checking castor angle
References: <083120080400.11978.48BA177A00031A5500002ECA220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BDB632FC1EFB4E68AFBC400AD51D2092@ClassicCarWorld.local>

Hi Bob, please see the following link. This explains the process using the 
Sealey tool GA45.

http://www.ccw-tools.com/uploads/images_products/PDF/Instructions/GA45.pdf

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay  Director  Classic-Car-World Ltd  32 Washingborough Road 
Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE  01522 888178 (Tel)  0870 705 9115 (fax) 
enquiries at ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road  Heighington  Lincoln  LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:00 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Checking castor angle


> Listers,
>
> A while back someone posted a method for checking castor angle by 
> measuring camber at several angles of turn-in and -out.   Would that 
> lister--or anyone else that knows the secret method--mind re-posting the 
> instructions?
>
> TIA,
> bs
>
> --
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Aug 31 02:55:26 2008
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 22:55:26 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] Underspray
In-Reply-To: <083120080341.7417.48BA12E10001F90B00001CF9220588644297900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
References: <083120080341.7417.48BA12E10001F90B00001CF9220588644297900E0A0403019B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a1eba5b0.b07b.40ee.8591.0ff7adfd8caa@aol.com>

Since Healeys are not judged that same way as, say, Corvettes, I would not worry about trying to replicate that factory hit and miss paint job both on the primer and color coats. Certainly some parts never had color over the primer so I'll go that far on being original.  A fully restored car should have as much paint protection as you can provide.  Healeys were never intended to last a long time but with some now 53 years young, corrosion continues to be a major problem. A good epoxy primer with appropriate color completely covering  very clean panels is a good way to preserve these cars for future generations to enjoy. My 2 pesos.
Aloha
Perry




In a message dated 08/30/08 17:42:09 Hawaiian Standard Time, tomleavy at comcast.net writes:
Hi Gary- 

What I am referring to is the factory applied paint to areas such as the under sides of the shrouds, wings, dash, etc. where paint was applied as best as could be done in an upside down position. I wouldn't call it random, it's just a result of the difficulty of reaching certain areas with the spray of paint. 

I hope that answers the question that I raised. 

Tom 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

You are subscribed as healeyguy at aol.com 

http://www.team.net/archive 

From ampole at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 31 03:54:40 2008
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:54:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Checking castor angle
In-Reply-To: <083120080400.11978.48BA177A00031A5500002ECA220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>
References: <083120080400.11978.48BA177A00031A5500002ECA220073474804040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W17866B9767AC5098FE326AD55D0@phx.gbl>

Hi Bob

When I had a new shock plate one of these plumb boards was used to check
camber, it was marked for both camber and castor. May be a cheap option. Phil
told me he got it from Demontweeks but I cant see it on their website. Heres a
pic of my camber and the board:
http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=12015652&prev=
3
cheers andy
_________________________________________________________________
Win New York holidays with Kelloggs & Live Search
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/107571440/direct/01/

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Aug 31 06:12:20 2008
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (tomfelts at windstream.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 8:12:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000
Message-ID: <20080831121220.LUQM13398.ispmxmta05-srv.windstream.net@webmail-relay.alltel.net>

Museum piece.  Would be a great driving car but doubt if it ever will be again.
> 
> From: "F. Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader at gmail.com>
> Date: 2008/08/31 Sun AM 01:40:46 EDT
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000
> 
> http://www.rmauctions.com/CarDetails.cfm?SaleCode=MO08&CarID=r271&Currency=
> 
> this 100 m sold for an unbelievable price!!
> 
> ron rader
> 
> 1965  BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From healeymonster at fastwave.biz  Sun Aug 31 06:53:55 2008
From: healeymonster at fastwave.biz (Ed Townley)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 06:53:55 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
Message-ID: <000601c90b68$a07fbc80$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>

John: I think you misunderstood my comment "I wonder who really owns
this car?" That was pure speculation--I am NOT trying to find the owner,
nor do I think any of us will ever find the Mythical Tech Sergeant.
Further, Although I agree with your "caveat emptor", I disagree that we
are peeing up a rope if we do anything to make these A$$H***S' life a
little more difficult.  Time permitting, I make it a practice to "check
out" and correct urban legends that I receive by email, and to flag or
report fraudulent listings on ebay and craigslist.  Of course, my small
contribution to cleaning up the internet is more like peeing in the
ocean than up a rope, but if 80-90% of the public did this, I think we
would see a marked decrease in the crap that is out there.
Regards,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA


Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:08:46 -0400
From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
To: 'RThrift' <rthrift at cox.net>, healeys at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <03a801c90ae4$97bf2ec0$c73d8c40$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

There is one hell of a difference between spam and fraud. Fraud is
criminal. This is fraud. Most spam is just a nuisance and usually
becomes criminal when the receiver does something STUPID  by answering
it.

And, for those who are trying to find the owner of this car, good luck.
It is most probably taken from a collection of photographs readily
available on the internet or, as some have done, copying photos from
brochures.

As far as I am concerned, caveat emptor. If you are naove enough to fall
for this type of listing, you deserve to be taken. That is the basis of
all con jobs. Craig's list, eBay and the like will never admit to the
fact that their sites are vehicles for fraud. To do so would open them
up to litigation.

I would prefer to use my time to keep my Healey running rather than to
go through 7 pages of nonsense as there is absolutely nothing that can
be done to stop these guys or else the Billions and billions of dollars
that I have won over the years according to the emails I get on an old
email address would be true.

Does the phrase "Peeing up a rope have a meaning?"

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.13/1642 - Release Date:
8/29/2008 6:12 PM

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Aug 31 07:18:29 2008
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 06:18:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] mig welding shroud gary
In-Reply-To: <000d01c90b2c$a77ddd00$263adc48@FRYS>
References: <000d01c90b2c$a77ddd00$263adc48@FRYS>
Message-ID: <751d05480808310618r73195798m5210c3ed81769e13@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

Works well on castings and such but I don't think I'd repair a Healey shroud
with the stuff, though I guess you could.  You can also repair the shroud by
using old beer cans and pop rivets and lots of Bondo but I wouldn't do that
either. Although the DPO of my car did something very similar.

I believe that Healey should aluminum is closer to 1100 not 3003.  It's soft
stuff.

My welder used pieces of old shroud cut into strips with his TIG welder.

Anyway for those interested he is the information:

*Aluminum Brazing Rod Co.
"Guy Kelly"
1145 Edgar Ave.
Beaumont, CA 92223
(951) 845-0127*

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Aug 30, 2008 at 10:44 PM, patrick harris <rotaryman at cox.net> wrote:

> There is another option which some one from the group mentioned a type of
> gas brazing
> rod especially made for dirty aluminum like our shrouds that was quite
> strong
> and cheaper to use as you could purchase a simple Mapp gas and oxygen set
> from
> home depot and lay some rod down.  Look up the archives as I cannot
> remember
> the name anymore of the material. pat
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 07:23:30 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 06:23:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <000601c90b68$a07fbc80$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>
References: <000601c90b68$a07fbc80$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>
Message-ID: <009001c90b6c$c2c120a0$484361e0$@rr.com>

Ed, I'm with you.
I check eBay frequently for data on BJ8s for the registry.  At one time,
there was a rash of scams involving BJ8s posted on eBay pretty much every
day.  I kept reporting them as soon as I saw them and they kept getting
removed.  I got a perverse thrill at the thought that the scammers would
wonder:  "How are they catching on so quickly?" After a few weeks, the
number of scams dropped off to only rarely.  Because I have the details on
so many BJ8s recorded and a record of the true owners, it is pretty easy to
spot the scams or to check with the owner if there is doubt.  In the case of
the black car, it looks very familiar somehow but I have been unable to
place it in the registry if it is there at all.

I'm not so familiar with craigslist, but I also thought "spam" was too mild
a word for an obvious fraud and was surprised that craigslist did not give a
"fraud" option for flagging.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed
Townley
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:54 AM
To: ahbn6 at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

John: I think you misunderstood my comment "I wonder who really owns this
car?" That was pure speculation--I am NOT trying to find the owner, nor do I
think any of us will ever find the Mythical Tech Sergeant.
Further, Although I agree with your "caveat emptor", I disagree that we are
peeing up a rope if we do anything to make these A$$H***S' life a little
more difficult.  Time permitting, I make it a practice to "check out" and
correct urban legends that I receive by email, and to flag or report
fraudulent listings on ebay and craigslist.  Of course, my small
contribution to cleaning up the internet is more like peeing in the ocean
than up a rope, but if 80-90% of the public did this, I think we would see a
marked decrease in the crap that is out there.
Regards,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Aug 31 07:38:35 2008
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:38:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
In-Reply-To: <000601c90b68$a07fbc80$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>
References: <000601c90b68$a07fbc80$6601a8c0@Edsoffice>
Message-ID: <03d201c90b6e$de512de0$9af389a0$@net>

The operative phrase is "if 80-90% of the public did this" I also report
this type of scam when I see it but I will venture to say that no more than
3-5% of the audience of Craig's list -- or ANY list do. 

John 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Townley [mailto:healeymonster at fastwave.biz] 
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 8:54 AM
To: ahbn6 at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist

John: I think you misunderstood my comment "I wonder who really owns
this car?" That was pure speculation--I am NOT trying to find the owner,
nor do I think any of us will ever find the Mythical Tech Sergeant.
Further, Although I agree with your "caveat emptor", I disagree that we
are peeing up a rope if we do anything to make these A$$H***S' life a
little more difficult.  Time permitting, I make it a practice to "check
out" and correct urban legends that I receive by email, and to flag or
report fraudulent listings on ebay and craigslist.  Of course, my small
contribution to cleaning up the internet is more like peeing in the
ocean than up a rope, but if 80-90% of the public did this, I think we
would see a marked decrease in the crap that is out there.
Regards,
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA


Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:08:46 -0400
From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "rare " Black 67 BJ8 on craigslist
To: 'RThrift' <rthrift at cox.net>, healeys at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <03a801c90ae4$97bf2ec0$c73d8c40$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

From cbaustin at verizon.net  Sun Aug 31 08:04:47 2008
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:04:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Welding
Message-ID: <04B728D9BECD4EEFA68DC66B40D2F47B@universal1>

    Google 'Alumaloy' - you'll also find a couple articles explaining
procedures for using it.

    I've used it on boot lids (cracks at the prop rod attachment point and
elsewhere) and shroud channel (cracks) repairs with good success.

                                                            CB

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Aug 31 08:16:28 2008
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (Dave Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 08:16:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Welding
In-Reply-To: <04B728D9BECD4EEFA68DC66B40D2F47B@universal1>
Message-ID: <20080831141615.63570187681@autox.team.net>

...or, as I posted several times, go to Muggyweld.com. Mike sells an alloy
and flux that works as well or often times better than TIG'ing for old
Healey "Birmabrite" shroud alloy.

frogeye at porterscustom.com
 
Porter Customs
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2
Porter Custom Bicycles
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=porterscustom.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Charley Braum
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 8:05 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Welding

    Google 'Alumaloy' - you'll also find a couple articles explaining
procedures for using it.

    I've used it on boot lids (cracks at the prop rod attachment point and
elsewhere) and shroud channel (cracks) repairs with good success.

                                                            CB

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 08:20:37 2008
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 07:20:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale
Message-ID: <00ae01c90b74$bd7875f0$386961d0$@rr.com>

No, not mine! 

 

One of the original Metallic Golden Beige cars is available, although now
painted black.  If anyone is interested, please let me know and I'll put you
in in touch with the owner.  

This is not the Tech Sergeant's black car, either!

 

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

Havelock, NC  USA 

From jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 31 08:21:11 2008
From: jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com (Martin Jansen)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 07:21:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud
In-Reply-To: <c8c.2968b23c.35eb2c74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <852139.83260.qm@web52407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Gary, We used to mig weld all our shrouds until we bought a Tig welder,
which is the way to go. However if you have a mig welder and want to try...
make sure you have your shroud sandblasted not chemically dipped. The
aluminium wire will go through a 10 ft liner. use 035 wire with 040 tip.
Practise, practise, practise. the repair should be done on the car. If you
call me I can give you further explanation on how to do this.905-854-3555


Happy Healeying,
 Marty
www.jule-enterprises.com

--- On Sat, 8/30/08, Gbouff1 at aol.com <Gbouff1 at aol.com> wrote:

From: Gbouff1 at aol.com <Gbouff1 at aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Mig welding aluminum shroud
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Received: Saturday, August 30, 2008, 7:06 PM

My aluminum shroud has been with an individual who does some bodywork/TIG
welding on the side for several months without any progress.

I was thinking about retrieving it and attempt to weld with my MIG welder,
using the proper gas and wire of course.

Does anyone on the list have personal experience doing this.  If so,  were
you successful and what are the pitfalls?

Gary Bouffard
Southington, Ct
BN7



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your
travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as jule_enterprisesah at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 31 10:08:58 2008
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:08:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000
Message-ID: <083120081608.4687.48BAC2190004D1210000124F22058860149D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>

If you follow the market or check the SCM data base, you'll see that this is close to an average price for a factory M.  Bill Meade, of the 100M Registry, and myself co-authored a piece for Sports Car Market a few months back in which Bill, who closely follows the market as well, wrote that nice 100M's are bringing approx. $185K.  If you figure $159K plus the buyer's premium, then we're right in the ballpark.  This adds to the data we used at the time which was based on both auction and private party results. 

When someone gets a bit surprised about this kind of money, I think a good way to put things in perspective is to compare the 100M to the Porsche Speedster.  Both have great looks (personally I like the Healey better), similar performance/driving experience, and are from the same era...Porsche made 4,144 between 1954 to 1958 with a projected survival rate of 35% this leaves about 1,400.  We know that less than 150 factory M's are out there, so this makes the Healey more rare.  Currently, a decent Speedster goes for approx. $200K and you can find them all day long.  Finding the Healey is more difficult.

The reality is that the factory M has become desirable and the market price is set by what someone is willing to pay, which is just what you see in the sell above.


Joel Gardner

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: <tomfelts at windstream.net> 

> Museum piece. Would be a great driving car but doubt if it ever will be again. 
> > 
> > From: "F. Ronald Rader" 
> > Date: 2008/08/31 Sun AM 01:40:46 EDT 
> > To: "Healey List" 
> > Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000 
> > 
> > http://www.rmauctions.com/CarDetails.cfm?SaleCode=MO08&CarID=r271&Currency= 
> > 
> > this 100 m sold for an unbelievable price!! 
> > 
> > ron rader 
> > 
> > 1965 BJ8 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> > 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> > 
> > You are subscribed as tomfelts at windstream.net 
> > 
> > http://www.team.net/archive 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> 
> You are subscribed as gardner5 at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From theswed at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 31 12:18:49 2008
From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 11:18:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list live in Hawaii?
Message-ID: <BAY139-W15F542BB4A7F27B4B538BBB35D0@phx.gbl>

Anyone on the list live in Hawaii?  Please contact me off the list.  I may be
moving there in the near future.   I have some questions regarding housing and
shipping my Healey.  Thanks.

Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_connect2_082008

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Aug 31 12:47:15 2008
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:47:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list live in Hawaii?
Message-ID: <20080831.144715.4180.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

Perry,

This sounds like yours.......
 
> Anyone on the list live in Hawaii?  Please contact me off the list.  
> I may be
> moving there in the near future.   I have some questions regarding 
> housing and
> shipping my Healey.  Thanks.
> 
> Kenny
> '61 BT-7
> _________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
Fashion Design Education - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oIaxjGjQd1c0oPXIYgbDXJQTGYUNEwujLBldp2zwM9Bgdq0/

From jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com  Sun Aug 31 12:58:00 2008
From: jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com (Jim Lyons)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:58:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVING LIGHTS --WHAT SIZE ?
Message-ID: <000f01c90b9b$7d65cdb0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>

Hello All,

I want to add a set of Spot and Fog lights to my BJ8.  I am wondering what 
size light most of you have mounted ?
Lucas SLR 576 or Lucas SLR 700 ?  Is Bigger better ?

Thanks,

Jim

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun Aug 31 13:06:19 2008
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 15:06:19 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 2, Issue 553
Message-ID: <d21.380b956f.35ec45ab@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/31/08 1:56:57 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> Hi Gary-
> 
> What I am referring to is the factory applied paint to areas such as the 
> under sides of the shrouds, wings, dash, etc. where paint was applied as best as 
> could be done in an upside down position. I wouldn't call it random, it's 
> just a result of the difficulty of reaching certain areas with the spray of 
> paint.
> 
> I hope that answers the question that I raised.
> 
> Tom
> 

That makes sense; if you've got the chassis on a rotisserie, or are painting 
panels off the car, there's no excuse to leave any part of the metal 
unpainted. (We'll leave duplication of bad manufacturing techniques to the Corvette 
Club Concours). There was a factory undercoating called "flintkote" which was 
troweled on to the car over the primer in a few vulnerable places (boot floor, 
interior floors) and was then painted over -- a practice which may have started 
with the 3000s -- but nothing more than that. I was wondering which you were 
referring to, and hoping it wasn't one of those black gummy oversprays that 
were usually applied by dealers making an extra buck.

Cheers
Gary


**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your 
travel deal here.
      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From jsoderling at astound.net  Sun Aug 31 13:38:17 2008
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 12:38:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
References: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <016401c90ba1$1e125d50$6501a8c0@Soderling>

I believe Sean Johnson in the Seattle area did add power steering.  I don't 
have a contact for him.  There was an article in one of the national Healey 
magazines on this conversion.
Vrooom vrooom,
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "D HALL" <dthall at btinternet.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering


> Dear Listers
>  It may be contentious to some but, has anyone had or know of power 
> steering being  fitted to a big Healey.
>  We at college in the Motor Engineering department are considering it as a 
> project for the students in the upcoming term.
>  We have some experience with one being fitted to Rover 95.
>  As always your help would be appreciated.
>  Best regards David
>
>
> David Hall
> _______________________________________________://www.team.net/archive 

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sun Aug 31 16:20:15 2008
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 15:20:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 M sells for $159,000
In-Reply-To: <083120081608.4687.48BAC2190004D1210000124F22058860149D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>
References: <083120081608.4687.48BAC2190004D1210000124F22058860149D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5caeedb50808311520q5ef41cf1j5fa1367f42ed6a7b@mail.gmail.com>

response to two comments:
1. I believe that the price includes the buyer's premium.
2. i do not know why some one would not drive it.

I know of many speedsters, 100's and E types cost that much that are
currently being driven by enthusiasts.

now if I can find that person to buy my by my BJ8???????????

ron
*****************************************
  If you figure $159K plus the buyer's premium, then we're right in
the ballpark.  This

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Aug 31 20:29:03 2008
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek and Gwen Sharp)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 22:29:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVING LIGHTS --WHAT SIZE ?
References: <000f01c90b9b$7d65cdb0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP604E0AF96A9DD988AF0E4C35C0@phx.gbl>

Hi Jim,

I personally like the looks of the SLR 576s - I just mounted a pair on my 
BT7 and I really like them.  Also, I have wondered if lights mounted on a 
bar in front of the grill ever affects air flow through the grill, and thus 
cooling.  I have never had a problem (I had a similar sized pair of Cibies 
there before), but I am in Ontario, not one of the searingly hot states.  I 
would be curious to hear any experience on this.  If there are any impacts 
on cooling, the larger SLR 700s would only make things worse.

Mirek
60 BT7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Lyons" <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:58 PM
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVING LIGHTS --WHAT SIZE ?


> Hello All,
>
> I want to add a set of Spot and Fog lights to my BJ8.  I am wondering what
> size light most of you have mounted ?
> Lucas SLR 576 or Lucas SLR 700 ?  Is Bigger better ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 31 20:56:34 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 10:56:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
In-Reply-To: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <824727.67251.qm@web86410.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808311956g7eaafadese28efbe14b8875f1@mail.gmail.com>

I would suggest doing a bit of research with US Hot Rod parts
suppliers should point you in the righ direction.  They fit these to
street rods all the time, no installation is the same.

Alan

On 8/31/08, D HALL <dthall at btinternet.com> wrote:
> Dear Listers
>   It may be contentious to some but, has anyone had or know of power
> steering being  fitted to a big Healey.
>   We at college in the Motor Engineering department are considering it as a
> project for the students in the upcoming term.
>   We have some experience with one being fitted to Rover 95.
>   As always your help would be appreciated.
>   Best regards David
>
>
> David Hall
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Aug 31 21:28:39 2008
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 11:28:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] DRIVING LIGHTS --WHAT SIZE ?
In-Reply-To: <000f01c90b9b$7d65cdb0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
References: <000f01c90b9b$7d65cdb0$6401a8c0@acerfd6b6b72e3>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0808312028g59a64b93n29925b52e557e88@mail.gmail.com>

Jim - technically speaking I think the SLR 576 was the standard dealer
option in the day, and if using a badge bar mount this is the one you
want.  I have the 700 Flamethrowers on my BJ8, mounted to the bumper
brackets/splash apron.  This looks good, and I use them often enough!
I suppose I prefer the 700s but either wayworks.  Alan

On 9/1/08, Jim Lyons <jlyons4 at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I want to add a set of Spot and Fog lights to my BJ8.  I am wondering what
> size light most of you have mounted ?
> Lucas SLR 576 or Lucas SLR 700 ?  Is Bigger better ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 31 18:02:32 2008
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 17:02:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
In-Reply-To: <016401c90ba1$1e125d50$6501a8c0@Soderling>
Message-ID: <420302.49115.qm@web37908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello,

I was thinking about something similar myself a few months ago - what would it
take to switch a 3000 to an MGB rack/pinion system - probably does not need
power assist and would not involve pumps/belts. Maybe the MGC set up would be
better/stonger as it carried the same six.

Anyone know of a 3000 with rack steering?

Robert N. Blair  65 Yellow BJ8  rnbmail at yahoo.com
   



--- On Sun, 8/31/08, John Soderling <jsoderling at astound.net> wrote:

> From: John Soderling <jsoderling at astound.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Power Steering
> To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "D HALL"
<dthall at btinternet.com>
> Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 12:38 PM
> I believe Sean Johnson in the Seattle area did add power
> steering.  I don't
> have a contact for him.  There was an article in one of the
> national Healey
> magazines on this conversion.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "D HALL" <dthall at btinternet.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:49 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Power Steering
>
>
> > Dear Listers
> >  It may be contentious to some but, has anyone had or
> know of power
> > steering being  fitted to a big Healey.
> >  We at college in the Motor Engineering department are
> considering it as a
> > project for the students in the upcoming term.
> >  We have some experience with one being fitted to
> Rover 95.
> >  As always your help would be appreciated.
> >  Best regards David
> >
> >
> > David Hall
> >
> _______________________________________________://www.team.net/archive
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as rnbmail at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive